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-"The keeping quality of roses is reduced by continuous lighting and high air humidity and is related to malfunctioning stomata and excessive water loss indoor. A daily six-hour period with low air humidity was sufficient to enhance considerably the keeping life of cut roses as compared to constant high RH.
-Continuous lighting of roses is desirable since dark periods are known to enhance the development of powdery mildew as shown with pot roses. Variation in air humidity is known to cause mildew in roses, which in turn significantly reduces the decorative value of the stems.
-Air humidity (RH) has little or no effect on the growth and flowering of roses, except for plant height, which shows a significant increase when grown at constant high air humidity (HH). Constant low air humidity (LH) significantly decreases fresh and dry weight. The water loss of detached leaves is affected by the RH regimes during production. Leaves grown at 24 h day-1 LP and constant high RH suffered a rapid water loss after detachment losing 50% of their fresh weight over the first two hours). By contrast, leaves from plants grown with part or all of each day at LH only lost 15% of their fresh weight after four hours. This was also observed after the plants were given a 12 h dark period before detaching and measuring the water loss of the leaves. The initial water loss could be slightly reduced by pre-treating the plants with a 12 h dark period before detaching the leaves.
-In experiment two the vase life strongly increased under continuous lighting in both flushes when a 6-h period of low RH was given as compared with constant high RH. The vase life was generally longer with 18 h day-1 lighting than under continuous lighting at constant high RH (data not presented). When the vase life and leaf water loss from roses grown at the different treatments were plotted against each other a significant negative correlation appeared (r2 = 0,673). Roses with a low water loss generally had a long vase life, and at increasing water loss a linear decrease in vase life took place. No roses with a high water loss have a long vase life, but the vase life of roses with a low water loss varied considerably. This means that if all roses with a vase life longer than 10 days were removed from the analysis, r2 increases significantly.
-The development of powdery mildew was always very low in continuous light in both cultivars. With a lighting period of 18 h day-1 (6 h dark period) the mildew infection was significantly increased as compared with in continuous lighting.
-Air humidity had little or no effect on growth.
-Stomata that show little response to humidity or light are a well-known feature of in vitro grown plantlets developed under high humidity and low VPD, such plants have an impaired capacity to control water loss and are prone to desiccate. This effect has also been shown in greenhouse grown roses, developing under high humidity conditions, resulting in excessive water loss and reduced keeping quality. Leaves developing at high RH fail to respond to darkness as a signal for closure of the stomata. In the present experiments, pot roses grown under continuous lighting and constant high RH did not respond to post-production conditions. Detached leaves rapidly lost water over the first few hours suggesting they were unable to close their stomata. However, plants grown under conditions inducing daily stomatal closure, caused by a period of darkness or low RH, were able to close their stomata indicates that continuous lighting does not disable stomata. Recently, it was shown that a 6-h drop period in air humidity was sufficient to enhance the keeping quality of roses grown with a dark period of 6 h and this effect has now proved true also under continuous lighting. stomata of roses grown under a long photoperiod remained open in darkness, whereas those grown at a short photoperiod closed almost immediately. Lighting period has been found to interact with RH, leading to a decreased stomatal responsiveness, when increasing lighting period and RH. Continuous lighting alone, however, is probably not causing this malfunctioning, but will contribute to establish conditions resulting in little or no stomatal movement during leaf development. In this experiment, unresponsive stomata were observed at 82% RH. the threshold level for these detrimental effects of stomatal response tend to be approximately 85% RH for up to 12 h daily. However, in roses there seems to be great variation between cultivars in response to stomata malfunctioning. As shown in several reports the vase life of roses is closely linked to the ability of the leaves to control water loss at indoor conditions. Such a relationship has also been found in roses from a range of greenhouses, and measurements of water loss from detached leaves has proved to be a very good method to evaluate the potential keeping quality of cut roses. Also in the present study the vase life could generally be explained by the rate of water loss from detached rose leaves. However, below water loss rates of about 30% per four hours, vase life seems to be influenced by other factors than water loss rates. It should be noted that it is the climate conditions during leaf development that determines the water loss after harvest of the roses. This means that it is the period 10-20 days before harvest that is the most important period with respect to the influence of air humidity on vase life, since it is in this period that the most dominant leaves in the vase (upper five-leaflet leaves) of the rose shoot develop.
-The development of powdery mildew was reduced when the dark period was excluded by continuous lighting, in accordance with previous results with pot roses. However, at same time the vase life was significantly decreased as found with several rose cultivars. The present results show that it is possible to grow roses under continuous light without adversely affecting the vase life if the air humidity is dropped during a daily 6-h period. This finding probably will have a great positive influence on the rose production where powdery mildew is a problem and artificial lighting is used.
-From the present study it might be concluded that a relative short-term variation in air humidity will significantly extend the vase life of roses under continuous lighting. The change in RH caused a change in vpd of the air by about 500 Pa vpd. In practise, during mild weather periods in spring and autumn it can be difficult to change the vpd that much by ventilation. An interesting question is therefore if a periodical air temperature increase which increase vpd will have similar effect as a drop in air humidity at constant temperature. In such a case, this might be an even better way to control keeping quality under continuous lighting.
-Roses are fairly thermophilic plants, so you need to maintain appropriate conditions for growing them in a polycarbonate greenhouse. The temperature at night should not drop below + 60 ° F. Daytime should be maintained between + 75-79 ° F. In addition, with this rose, it is necessary to provide additional lighting. The soil in the greenhouse should be warmed up to + 50-54 ° F.
-Since the cultivation of roses in the greenhouse takes place directly in the ground, the height of its layer should be at least 3.3 feet. At the same time, do not overmoisten the root system with a high level of groundwater. To prevent this from happening, take care of drainage even at the stage of building the greenhouse. A polycarbonate greenhouse for winter growing of roses should be equipped with special air vents, the area of which should be at least 30% of the total glazing of the entire structure.
-The beds with roses should be raised above the level of the tracks by at least 1′-1.3′. In this form, they will warm up better.
-Greenhouse soil requirements for growing roses
-To grow roses in a greenhouse, you need a well-fertilized, fertile soil with an acidity index equal to H 5.8-6.5. Before planting roses, you need to dig up the soil to a depth of 1.6′-1.9′, apply organic fertilizer. Roses need many nutrients to grow and bloom. However, these sissies in a closed environment are sensitive to excess salts in the soil. Therefore, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers should be strictly dosed and not more than 0.25% per liter of solution. Especially young rose seedlings suffer from salty soil. Therefore, before planting, experts recommend adding superphosphate. However, there should be plenty of potassium in the soil. Otherwise, roses grown with such difficulty will not stand for a long time in the cut.
-Features of growing roses in greenhouses
-The technology of growing roses in a greenhouse assumes that they are in one place for no more than 3-5 years. You must constantly enrich the soil with manure and superphosphate. In this case, apply fertilizers before the roses should begin their growth and flowering, i.e. after the end of the rest period. The dormant period can last two months, after the last cut of flowers in the fall. Plant new seedlings in the greenhouse no later than October. At the same time, the temperature in the greenhouse should be between 32-41 ° F. 12 days before the start of heating, the bushes are cut off, leaving the strongest shoots in the amount of 3-5 pieces.
-At the same time, it is necessary to maintain air humidity equal to 70-80%, this is especially important for young plantings. In conclusion, I would like to say that winter growing of roses in greenhouses is a very difficult task. It is better to do this in areas with mild winters. In addition, you need to know which varieties of roses lend themselves well to growing in a polycarbonate greenhouse""
-""What Are the Ideal Growing Conditions for Roses?
-Roses are perennial plants. A single rose bush can live for years. In fact, some varieties have a lifespan reaching several decades.
-However, most growers consider springtime the traditional growing season for roses. As in most climates, roses bloom in the spring. This is true outdoors. But roses can bloom year-round in a greenhouse, or other controlled environment, where growers can replicate spring conditions.
-It’s also important to note that roses prefer plenty of light. At least 6 hours of full sunlight is ideal, as long as it doesn’t get too hot. You can recreate this artificially as well, using lighting, such as LED grow lamps.
-Rose care is also important when it comes to optimizing yields. To promote flowering, many rose growers lightly prune their rose bushes in the late winter and early spring. Pruning roses helps by removing dead organic matter and diseased canes. It triggers new growth and stimulates blooming.
-What Is the Ideal Temperature for Rose Greenhouses?
-As a perennial plant, roses are quite hardy and can survive in a wide range of temperatures. However, in order to promote growth and flowering, it’s best to maintain an optimal temperature range.
-For most rose varieties, the ideal temperature range is around 65-75°F during the day (18-24°C), and 60-70°F overnight (15-21°C).
-Lower temperatures may lead to your roses going dormant, as they would during the winter. Higher temperatures, reaching 85°F (29°C) and above, can lead to heat stress. This materializes in leaf scorch, wilting, and leaf loss.
-Ideal Temperatures for Rose Cultivation:
-Daytime – 65-75°F (18-24°C)
-Nighttime – 60-70°F (15-21°C)
-What Is the Ideal Humidity for Greenhouse Rose Cultivation?
-As with most plants, humidity plays a major role in growth, flowering, and disease prevention. As a crop grown for its beauty, it’s important for the flowers to be vibrant, saturated, and blemish-free.
-Humidity control is therefore highly important in rose greenhouses. The correct humidity range stimulates growth and optimal flowering and uniformity.
-Fortunately, in a controlled environment, such as a greenhouse or glasshouse, you can create and maintain the ideal humidity. This allows growers to produce the highest quality roses possible.
-The ideal relative humidity range for roses is around 70-80%. In terms of VPD, that’s 0.4-0.9 kPa during the day, and 0.35-0.75 kPa overnight.
-These ranges are optimal for rose growth, development and blooming. However, it also helps in preventing diseases and molds that are common to rose production. Diseases such as powdery mildew can be devastating to rose bushes. Fortunately, you can completely prevent them by maintaining the correct humidity range.
-Ideal Relative Humidity & VPD for Rose Cultivation:
-Relative Humidity – 70-80% RH
-Daytime VPD – 0.4-0.9 kPa
-Nighttime VPD – 0.35-0.75 kPa
-How to Create Ideal Humidity in a Rose Greenhouse
-Rose greenhouses are naturally humid. Like all plants, they transpire constantly, evaporating water into the air. This inevitably leads to high humidity, reaching 100% relative humidity, in any closed space. Of course, high humidity slows growth, reduces flower quality, and leads to various diseases and molds.
-Most traditional rose greenhouses reduce humidity by ventilating and heating. The ventilation removes the humid air, while the heating maintains an ideal temperature range.
-However, heating and venting is highly inefficient. Removing humid air from the greenhouse also removes large amounts of heat. Growers then need to compensate for this heat loss, through more and more heating. Naturally, constant heating leads to high energy costs.
-In addition to being inefficient, heating and venting may also be completely ineffective, in certain circumstances. Humid, rainy, or cold weather, as well as dark and cloudy days, often make ventilation redundant. If it’s not much drier outside than inside, ventilating won’t help reduce moisture in the greenhouse.
-Using Dehumidifiers to Control Humidity
-So, fully controlling humidity, at all times, at a high efficiency level, requires active dehumidification. Dehumidifiers like DryGair remove large amounts of moisture, specifically in a greenhouse space, by design. They do so actively, using patented circulation fans, combined with a condensation-based dehumidification system. This makes them incredibly efficient and effective at controlling humidity in commercial greenhouses and grow rooms.
-Keeping your rose greenhouse closed and using dehumidifiers to control humidity, ensures ideal growing conditions, regardless of weather conditions. It also ensures a low energy input to achieve this task. Trials and grower experiences show energy savings of 50% on average, compared to traditional heating and venting.
-Rose growers, Van der Hulst, in the Netherlands, save 35% on gas, for example. The company uses 24 DG-12 units in their advanced rose greenhouses.
-Using Air Circulation to Improve Rose Production
-Another important aspect of humidity control is air circulation. Proper airflow between the plants helps to disperse any pockets of humidity that may build up. This is a crucial factor in preventing mildew development, while also stimulating the plants and promoting optimal development.
-All DryGair models include a patented air circulation module. DG units utilize powerful fans, with a unique 360° dispersal, that ensures uniform conditions throughout the greenhouse. Uniform growing conditions increases flower uniformity as well as quality, helping growing produce consistently beautiful roses.""
-""Temperature condition：
-For growing healthy roses, it is necessary to maintain the air temperature at 22 °C during the daytime, and at night 20°C. In summer, the air temperature in the greenhouse can rise to 27 °C, while it is desirable to reduce the temperature to 16-17°C at night. If the air temperature in the greenhouse above 28 °C, leads to a loss of the quality of the rose.
-In the daily temperature regime, two points are important: the transition from night to day and the transition from day to night. The intensity and duration of these transitions significantly affects the intensity of plant growth. A quick rise in temperature from night to daytime usually causes a weakening of the photosynthetic activity of the leaves. The shoots of flowers become thin and weak. The duration of the transition from night to daytime temperatures should be at least two hours. The air temperature has a strong influence on the size of the rose flower.
-Humidity condition：
-The relative humidity of the air is one of the main parameters when growing roses. For the active growth of roses, a relative humidity of 70-85% is necessary, in order to ensure optimal conditions for photosynthesis. With more than 90% humidity in the greenhouse, the risk of powdery mildew affecting roses increases significantly. This immediately leads to a sharp loss of the commercial quality of flowers. When the relative humidity in the greenhouse is less than 50%, the risk of damage to the rose by spider mites and powdery mildew also increases.
-CO2 level：
-Low CO2 level in greenhouse can limit highly productive photosynthesis. Carbon dioxide consumption is the growth of a plant. The intensity and productivity of photosynthesis increases by 50% when the concentration of carbon dioxide in the greenhouse air increases from 300 to 900 ppm.
-Light condition：
-The most important factor of plant growth is light, more precisely photosynthetic active radiation. The light energy of the plants in the greenhouse is mainly obtained from the sun, and can from artificial lighting.""
-""Where to plant
-In a warm, sheltered, sunny location
-In borders, in most soil types
-In containers, especially dwarf cultivars
-In a dedicated cut-flower border, so you can pick lots of blooms without spoiling the display in the garden
-Chrysanthemums suit many garden styles, formal or informal, traditional or contemporary. Those with vibrant flowers work particularly well in exotic plantings, the pastel shades mingle sociably in cottage-garden borders, while the warm, burnished hues complement ornamental grasses.
-When to plant
-Plants that have been stored in a light frost-free place over winter can be planted outside in late spring, after the last frost (typically from mid May to early June).
-Young plants raised from cuttings can be planted outside at the same time, once well rooted and growing strongly. Wait until after the last frost, having acclimatised them to outdoor conditions by hardening off few a few weeks beforehand.
-Plants bought in summer can be put straight into borders and containers. If bought in late summer, they will be in full flower and provide instant colour.
-How to plant
-Chrysanthemums are easy to plant:
-They like rich, fertile soil, so dig in la bucketful per sq m (sq yd) of well-rotted organic matter, such as garden compost, before planting
-Space plants 30–45cm (12–18in) apart
-Add a stake to support taller types
-When planting in containers, use John Innes No 2 compost and a container with a diameter of at least 30cm (1ft)
-Pinching out (stopping)
-Once young plants reach about 20cm (8in) tall, in early summer, pinch out the main growing point to encourage branching. You can also pinch out the tips of sideshoots as they grow, until about mid-summer. This will help to create stockier plants that will carry more flowers.
-Watering
-Newly planted chrysanthemums, in borders or containers, need regular watering through the growing season. Never let the soil or compost dry out completely. But take care not to overwater too, as they dislike waterlogged conditions.
-Feeding
-To boost growth, apply a general fertiliser, such as Growmore or blood, fish and bone, towards the end of April.
-You can also apply a nitrogen-rich feed in June, to further encourage lush growth. Use sulphate of ammonia or, for organic gardeners, dried poultry manure pellets, following the instructions on the pack.
-During flowering, to maximise the display, you can give a weekly high-potassium feed, such as tomato fertiliser.
-Mulching
-Apply a thick layer of mulch to the soil surface after planting. This will help to hold moisture in the soil and prevent weed germination. Use well-rotted manure or garden compost.
-If leaving plants in the ground over winter, insulate the roots with a thick layer of mulch in late autumn.
-Removing some flower buds (disbudding)
-Disbudding is a specialist technique used to produce very large blooms or well-balanced clusters to use as cut flowers or for exhibition:
-On 'spray' chrysanthemums – these produce clusters (sprays) of flowers. If you remove the large central flower bud, you'll get a more uniform display of evenly sized blooms.
-On single-flowered chrysanthemums – keep the main central flower bud and remove all the side buds and other shoots. The plant will then put all its energy into producing one spectacular flower.
-Deadheading
-Removing faded flowers regularly helps to keep the display looking its best. It also encourages new buds to form, extending the overall display.
-See our guide to deadheading.
-Overwintering
-Most hardy chrysanthemums can survive temperatures down to at least -5˚C (23˚F). However, in much of the UK temperatures can fall below this, so it may be safer to lift and store plants over winter in light, frost-free conditions, such as a frost free greenhouse, a cool conservatory, porch or similar. Plants in exposed or poorly drained sites will particularly benefit.
-Once flowering has finished, cut down the stems to about 20cm (8in) tall, to produce what is known as a stool
-Lift the shortened plants and shake off the soil from the roots
-Snip off any green shoots and leaves, so you have bare stems
-Label each plant, if you have several different types
-Stand the stools in a shallow tray, on a 5cm (2in) layer of slightly damp compost. Cover the roots lightly with loose compost.
-Store in a cold but frost-free location, such as a cool greenhouse or conservatory, or a garage
-Keep the compost just moist through the winter
-In mild regions
-Where temperatures are unlikely to fall below -5˚C (23˚F), especially in sheltered gardens with well-drained soil, you could risk leaving plants in the ground through winter.
-Even so, it's best to give them some protection:
-Cover the root zone with an insulating layer of mulch
-Consider using a cloche to protect plants from winter rain
-In containers
-Plants in containers are particularly vulnerable to cold, so bring them indoors once flowering has finished. Keep them frost free, such as in a cool greenhouse or enclosed porch.
-In very mild regions, you could risk leaving them outside, in which case:
-Move them to a warm, sheltered spot, such as in the lee of a wall or under the eaves
-Wrap containers in insulating layers of fleece, to protect the roots.
-Make sure the compost doesn't get waterlogged – stand containers on bricks (or pot feet) to keep the drainage holes clear
-The easiest way to make new plants is by taking cuttings in spring and to divide clumps. It's also possible to grow a few chysanthemum from seed.
-By cuttings
-In spring, use the vigorous new shoots as basal softwood cuttings. These root quickly and reliably to form plants that will flower in late summer:
-Remove several shoots, 5–7.5cm (2–3in) long, from the outside of a clump. Cut with a sharp knife, right at the base, as close as possible to the crown
-Remove the lower leaves and insert the cuttings into pots containing a mix of half peat-free multipurpose compost and half horticultural grit/perlite. Water in, then place in a propagator or cover with a clear plastic bag. Put in bright light (away from direct sunshine), at 10°C (50°F) or above
-Ensure the compost is always moist, but not soggy, to encourage rooting
-They should root in about three weeks. Move them into larger pots as they grow
-They should be ready to plant out in a couple of months. Wait until after the last frost, harden them off carefully, and protect from slugs and snails
-Plants that are in winter storage can be started into growth earlier than normal, so they produce shoots ahead of outdoor plants. Cuttings taken from these can have a head-start of several months:
-In early January, bring plants out of winter storage into a greenhouse at 7–10°C (45–50°F)
-Water them so the compost is thoroughly damp, then keep it just moist
-Within three or four weeks, from mid-February, you should have large enough shoots to use as cuttings. Follow the method outlined above
-By division
-Older plants tend to lose vigour over time, so can be divided in spring, once growth has started. See our guide to dividing perennials.
-By seed
-A few cultivars are available as packeted seeds. Sow in spring at 15°C (59°F). They should germinate within two weeks, and the resulting plants should flower in the same year.""
-""Chrysant iernum (Dendrenthema grandiflora Tzvelev), Queen of the East, belongs to the
-family Asteraceae, is one of the most important commercial flower used as cut as well
-as loose flower and potted plant. It is native to the northern hemisphere chiefly Europe
-and Asia It is preferred due to the wide range of shapes and sizes of flowers, brilliance
-of colour tones, long lasting florets, and relative ease to grow all round the year round.
-The Nett erlands is the foremost importer of chrysanthemum cut flowers and is the centre
-for re-exiort to other countries.
-III India, large flowered varieties are grown for cut flower and small flowered
-varieties for making garland, wreaths and veni, religious offerings, for bedding and
-potting purposes. Small flowered varieties are commercially grown in Tamil Nadu,
-Karnatak a, Maharashtra. It is grown in an area of approximately 4000ha.
-1here are about 160 species the genus Chrysanthemum among which the modem
-autumn flowering perennial Chrysanthemum morifolium Ramat is most important. There
-are abou: 2000 varieties have reported from world and about 1000 varieties from India.
-1he commonly accepted classification of garden chrysanthemum is based on the
-bloom shape, arrangement and di 'ectior; of growth. They are mainly classified as large
-flowered (l3c.lasses) and small flowered (I Oclassess).
-Uses:
-• j,s a back ground in bordes by planting erect and tall varieties.
-• Dwarf and compact variet.es are suitable for front row planting of borders and as
-~ot culture.
-• As a cut flower and loose ilower for making garland and hair adornment.
-• Extra large bloom varieties used for exhibition.
-Important varieties: Casa Granda, Snowdon White, Vesuvio, Melody Lane, Dancer,
-Kikubiori, Super Giant, Christmas Carol, Gloria Red, Silvia Green, Dream Castle,
-Taiching Queen, Helmy Pot, Sancho, Green Goddess, Golden. Splender and Bronze
-Turner.
-Therrnozero cultivars: Varieties flower at any temperature between 10° to 2ic but
-most cc nstantly at 16°C night temperature.
-40
-Thermooositive cultivars: A minimum of 16°C required for initiation and ire: for
-rapid init iation but delayed flowering.
-Thermonegative cultivars: Bud initiation occurs at low or high temperature between
-10° and ~,7oC but continuous high :emperature delay bud development.
-Growing environment: Chrysanthemum being a short day plant can be grown as off
-season rr ore profitably in the both climatically controlled and naturally ventilated
-greenhouses. The partial modification of the growing schedule with photoperiodic
-manipulation of light as light plays a very critical role in producing high quality cut
-stems even in summer months.
-Light: er rysanthemum requires long days for good vegetative growth and short days for
-flowering responds to light for more than 13 hours photoperiod as critical long days and
-remain vegetative. Therefore, its crop is programmed accurately by the application of
-cyclic lig.itening and black out treatments manipulating day length between 13 and 7
-hours as long and, short days, respectively. The former induces vegetative growth
-(extensior. of stems) and later induces development of good stem length of cut flowers.
-Most of the varieties need uninterrupted long days until reaching a vegetative height of
-20-30cm before a short day treatment. On the other hand, decreased light intensity may
-reduce photosynthesis and thereby quality of flowers may be reduced to produce thin and
-low stem weight, faded flower colour and smaller sized buds.
-Temperature: The night temperature determines the speed of bud formation. Low night
-temperature results in more vegetative growth, taller plants, delay in flowering, longer
-pedicels, sturdier plants and more intense flower colours. For nursery raising, the mother
-plants shoild be grown at night temperature not lower than 18°C. However, for a normal
-greenhous ~ crop and getting good flowering stems the optimum temperature should be
-16-18°C d iring the night and 24-28oC during the day.
-CO2: Enrichment of CO2 levels in air to 600-900ppm is recommended in closed
-environment.
-Re'lative:Iumidity: High relative humidity should be avoided. Low atmospheric
-humidity I evels encourage high transpiration and respiration rates, resulting in hard and
-dark growth. High atmospheric levels above 95% produce soft growth, which encourages
-fungal and bacterial diseases. It is :lesirable to maintain a relative humidity of 60-7~%
-during crop growth and flower bud development.""
-""To optimize chrysanthemum cultivation, especially in greenhouse environments:
-Temperature Management:
-Maintain an optimal temperature range between 17°C and 22°C for flowering.
-During the LD (long-day) period, ensure temperatures between 12°C and 28°C to promote leaf unfolding.
-Adjust day and night temperatures to influence internode length and stem elongation.
-Consider applying short-term temperature drops for controlling plant height effectively.
-Light Management:
-Provide sufficient light levels, as higher irradiance tends to promote earlier flowering.
-Manage day length to initiate flowering during the short-day (SD) period.
-Cultivar Selection:
-Choose cultivars that exhibit favorable responses to temperature variations, particularly in terms of flowering time and flower production.
-Breed cultivars that perform well under lower temperature conditions to reduce energy consumption.
-Biomass Production:
-Monitor biomass production and partitioning to optimize growth.
-Consider the influence of temperature on biomass accumulation, especially in relation to flowering and leaf-stem ratio.
-To optimize chrysanthemum growth, control the temperature during both the long-day (LD) and short-day (SD) periods. During the LD period, stem elongation is reduced at lower air temperature (AT), affecting final stem length. Manipulate the difference between day temperature (DT) and night temperature (NT) to control plant height, using methods like DROP treatment or adjusting DT and NT. Time to flowering depends on the number of days between the start of the SD period and flowering, with an optimum temperature usually between 17°C and 22°C. Monitor temperature during the SD period, as it affects flower bud initiation and development. Irradiance influences flowering time, with higher irradiance leading to earlier flowering. Manage temperature and irradiance to optimize flower production, aiming for an optimum temperature range between 15°C and 20°C. Nitrogen assimilation rate (NAR) per unit leaf area is lower at sub-optimal temperatures, but the contribution of stems to total photosynthetic capacity can be substantial, especially at lower temperatures. Optimize temperature conditions to maximize biomass production, considering both above-ground and below-ground biomass.""
-""Step-by-step Guide on Growing Chrysanthemums in A Greenhouse
-How to Grow Chrysanthemums in A Greenhouse
-Variety Selection
-Selecting the right chrysanthemum varieties is crucial for successful greenhouse cultivation. It is essential to consider factors such as the type of bloom, its size, and color. Popular varieties include cushion, reflex, and decorative types, each offering a unique aesthetic appeal. Selecting disease-resistant varieties that are well-suited for greenhouse conditions ensures a healthier crop.
-Greenhouse Site Preparation
-Thoroughly prepare the site for the greenhouse, paying careful attention to every detail. It is crucial to select the most suitable soil, ensure it has good drainage, and maintain proper ventilation. By ensuring adequate ventilation, the greenhouse can effectively minimize the accumulation of humidity, thus reducing the likelihood of fungal diseases. Additionally, factors like the orientation and layout of the greenhouse should be considered as they contribute to creating an environment favorable for the growth of chrysanthemums.
-Planting Chrysanthemum Cuttings
-Chrysanthemums are commonly reproduced through the use of cuttings. Place the cuttings into the properly prepared soil, making sure to plant them at the co"