diff --git "a/test.csv" "b/test.csv" new file mode 100644--- /dev/null +++ "b/test.csv" @@ -0,0 +1,64489 @@ +question,response,chosen,rejected +"Hi All- + +New to the forum and like most newbies-need your help! I've googled around the internet and did find various You Tube videos on how to diagnose my tilt/trim issue-but I'm confused! + +The issue: +-Tilt trim has worked perfectly-then one day when using the boat-no tilt/trim. +-The motor is on a 25 foot pontoon boat. Tilt trim switch on the remote control causes a clicking at the engine. +-Tilt/Trim on the side of the motor causes a clicking. +-Checked the fuses-all good. (Very impressed with the Yamaha fuse box! Tool and extra fuses-good job). +-Removed engine cover and removed the blue and the green wire from the relay. Jumped each wire to the boat battery (+ terminal) which is located just ahead of the engine. Also ran a wire from the - terminal to a bolt on the engine block. Nothing. + +BTW-This is a 1988 F90TLR + +My confusion: +-One diagnosis claims that the ""clicking"" relay is defective. +-Another diagnosis states that if the motor doesn't run when jumped it's bad + +Both of these parts are expensive-do I need them both? Could a bad relay have taken out the motor at the same time? Or should I buy a new motor and start with that. + +Auxiliary Questions: +I don't have a trailer. But I guess there is no way to change that motor with the boat in the water is there? +I had seen on some Yamaha motors there is a way to manually set your trim and lock it in. I don't see that on my motor. Is it too big and heavy to manually set the trim angle? + +We have family coming in this weekend and plan to take several pontoon boat trips around the lake. One planned destination is about ten miles up the lake. Hate to have the motor trimmed all the way down-I'm probably the only one that will know-but it's irritating! + +Lastly good source for parts? I am a marine dealer but for sailboats. I can get Yanmar/torqeedo and other sailboat engine parts-but none of my sources for those parts carry Yamaha. + +Hope as a newbie I'm not already wearing out my welcome!","I know this is am old thread but I don't see any answer to the problem. I had the exact same issue, trim just quit working. + +I know this is a temporary solution and is an early indicator that maintenance will need to be completed during off season but at least it got the trim working for now. + +Solution: using a piece of wood and a hammer/mallet give the electric motor portion a good wack. Apparently the brushes need cleaning/replaced","I know this is am old thread but I don't see any answer to the problem. I had the exact same issue, trim just quit working. + +I know this is a temporary solution and is an early indicator that maintenance will need to be completed during off season but at least it got the trim working for now. + +Solution: using a piece of wood and a hammer/mallet give the electric motor portion a good wack. Apparently the brushes need cleaning/replaced",Prop will spin with no resistance. +"The general wisdom and experience is that you do not get any prop walk with an outboard because the prop shaft runs pretty parallel to the surface. The prop shaft angle on shaft driven boats is often 5-15 degrees and with a RH prop gives a substantial kick to port when in astern gear. If an outboard engine is given a little tilt but still under the water it follows that some prop walk should be evident. However the angle of tilt is upwards towards the surface rather than downwards as on shaft driven boats. + +Has anyone experience of prop walk with an outboard engine, how to induce it and which direction would it kick the stern when in reverse?","Sorry ---you are wrong.-----On an inboard the prop is under the hull.-------The water coming off the prop act on the hull.-----Look at it think , about it.","Sorry ---you are wrong.-----On an inboard the prop is under the hull.-------The water coming off the prop act on the hull.-----Look at it think , about it.","racerone said: + + + + Could be a sheared flywheel key.---That changes timing.-----Or a reed valve problem.-----Or run with a timing light on each cylinder to full throttle.---See how spark behaves. + +Click to expand... + + +Hmm, haven't checked the reeds, but I would think those would affect how it runs more at low speeds, no? It seems to start and idle good, but is slightly harder to start than before. I checked the key about 2 years ago, and it seemed fine then. + +Tried the timing light and it doesn't seem to pick up enough of the sparks. Maybe my inductor is damaged... But the spark tester showed great spark on all 4 coils. Even the one that leaks and shocks you. My dad suggested it could still be bad fuel lines, like they are soft and collapse. We haven't tried running on NEW fuel hose. The fuel hose is pretty soft, but I didn't see it collapsing anywhere. It was replaced with autozone fuel hose a couple years back." +"The general wisdom and experience is that you do not get any prop walk with an outboard because the prop shaft runs pretty parallel to the surface. The prop shaft angle on shaft driven boats is often 5-15 degrees and with a RH prop gives a substantial kick to port when in astern gear. If an outboard engine is given a little tilt but still under the water it follows that some prop walk should be evident. However the angle of tilt is upwards towards the surface rather than downwards as on shaft driven boats. + +Has anyone experience of prop walk with an outboard engine, how to induce it and which direction would it kick the stern when in reverse?","Thanks for reply but with respect I have thought about it without any thing obvious jumping out!. +When I tried tilting the boat engine it certainly behaved very differently in astern to normal but that was many years ago and I did not try it often enough to draw firm conclusions. Many ""experts"" say prop walk is more to do with the prop at an angle to the water surface travelling different distances on the up and down stroke. +See the link +http://www.castlemarine.co.uk/propwalk.pdf","Thanks for reply but with respect I have thought about it without any thing obvious jumping out!. +When I tried tilting the boat engine it certainly behaved very differently in astern to normal but that was many years ago and I did not try it often enough to draw firm conclusions. Many ""experts"" say prop walk is more to do with the prop at an angle to the water surface travelling different distances on the up and down stroke. +See the link +http://www.castlemarine.co.uk/propwalk.pdf",what does cdi say the ohm readings should be? +"The general wisdom and experience is that you do not get any prop walk with an outboard because the prop shaft runs pretty parallel to the surface. The prop shaft angle on shaft driven boats is often 5-15 degrees and with a RH prop gives a substantial kick to port when in astern gear. If an outboard engine is given a little tilt but still under the water it follows that some prop walk should be evident. However the angle of tilt is upwards towards the surface rather than downwards as on shaft driven boats. + +Has anyone experience of prop walk with an outboard engine, how to induce it and which direction would it kick the stern when in reverse?",Good luck with the research.,Good luck with the research.,"modelt said: + + + + i just restored my 14 ft. fibergalass bass boat, replacing the entire rotted wooden floor. +not wanting to add carpet again, my thought was to place rubber innerlocking pads on the wooden floor. +i decied to use this new Rustolem, DECK RESTORE PAINT to the surface. +this stuff is greatttttttttttttttttttt. +gives a textured, non slip surface.. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... It seems to be the next generation of pickup bedliner type of ""Stuff"", with even more colors,... + +The interlockin' pads are Really Expensive, 'n darn Heavy,..." +"I changed the oil, the fuel, I established there is spark. When I inject fuel into the spark plug hole it starts but dies. The fuel is not getting to the motor? Is there anyone with 2.5 hp Yamaha experience on here?","Did you drain the fuel system (all internal fuel lines) and carb? + +You may have to check the oil and make sure you got all the water out; chocolate milk =water; may require multiple oil changes. My merc inboard/outboard oil pan got contaminated with water - had to change the oil with a mixture of 1/2 oil and 1/2 kerosene - run the engine for 5 seconds, drain and wash again 3 times - then drain and fill with pure oil.","Did you drain the fuel system (all internal fuel lines) and carb? + +You may have to check the oil and make sure you got all the water out; chocolate milk =water; may require multiple oil changes. My merc inboard/outboard oil pan got contaminated with water - had to change the oil with a mixture of 1/2 oil and 1/2 kerosene - run the engine for 5 seconds, drain and wash again 3 times - then drain and fill with pure oil.","Actually I bought klein mm400 and took the measurements. I got +.1 for the primary and 256 ohms for the secondary. +Specs +Primary = .05 - .15 and +Secondary = 225 - 325 +So I think the coils are healthy" +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","While it is running poorly and the fuel pressure drops, pinch off the return line after the regulator and see if the problem goes away. If you are getting excessive white powder in the vst and fuel lines. Look at your racor filter mounts. They are probably the reason.","While it is running poorly and the fuel pressure drops, pinch off the return line after the regulator and see if the problem goes away. If you are getting excessive white powder in the vst and fuel lines. Look at your racor filter mounts. They are probably the reason.",Get a photobucket account and upload your pics there and then link them here. +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + While it is running poorly and the fuel pressure drops, pinch off the return line after the regulator and see if the problem goes away. If you are getting excessive white powder in the vst and fuel lines. Look at your racor filter mounts. They are probably the reason. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Chris, So if the problem goes away after pinching the return line the regulator is porting too much fuel? + +We only found powder twice and the bottom of the tank has some corrosion that looked like it might have been the source. I am extremely interested in the Racor mount thing as we changed the racor previously to this entire problem beginning. We have changed the racor filter element probably 3 times since this started. We see no white residue or anything else in the fuel or any filters. I physically have pounded the racor element on a towel and nothing has ever showed. Here are pictures of my VST screen the first time it was cleaned and the corrosion on the bottom of the tank (which was replaced). + + + + + + + + + + +What about fuel lines on the engine are they ever a problem? I'm not sure if you have seen the exhaust problem but please take a look at my video and tell me what you think. +Thanks, +Rick","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + While it is running poorly and the fuel pressure drops, pinch off the return line after the regulator and see if the problem goes away. If you are getting excessive white powder in the vst and fuel lines. Look at your racor filter mounts. They are probably the reason. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Chris, So if the problem goes away after pinching the return line the regulator is porting too much fuel? + +We only found powder twice and the bottom of the tank has some corrosion that looked like it might have been the source. I am extremely interested in the Racor mount thing as we changed the racor previously to this entire problem beginning. We have changed the racor filter element probably 3 times since this started. We see no white residue or anything else in the fuel or any filters. I physically have pounded the racor element on a towel and nothing has ever showed. Here are pictures of my VST screen the first time it was cleaned and the corrosion on the bottom of the tank (which was replaced). + + + + + + + + + + +What about fuel lines on the engine are they ever a problem? I'm not sure if you have seen the exhaust problem but please take a look at my video and tell me what you think. +Thanks, +Rick",??????--------Heat the housing and the bearing will fall out. +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Yes on the return line. + +The filter in the VST is 2 micron. Unless you install a 2 micron Racor the filter is doing nothing to stop the white powder. If the filter mount is deteriorating it doesn't matter what size filter you install. If the tank is corroding it may be time to replace it. Is the fuel tank aluminum?","Yes on the return line. + +The filter in the VST is 2 micron. Unless you install a 2 micron Racor the filter is doing nothing to stop the white powder. If the filter mount is deteriorating it doesn't matter what size filter you install. If the tank is corroding it may be time to replace it. Is the fuel tank aluminum?",My Yamaha 90 4 stroke engine is stuck down. Trying to raise it manually by releasing the manual release screw is no help. Any suggestions. Tilt and trim needs replacing. +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Yes on the return line. I will try that next time we water test. that is good to know but still not sure if I understand. So that fuel would just be returned to the tank? + +The filter in the VST is 2 micron. Unless you install a 2 micron Racor the filter is doing nothing to stop the white powder. If the filter mount is deteriorating it doesn't matter what size filter you install. If the tank is corroding it may be time to replace it. Is the fuel tank aluminum?[/QUOTE] + +The racor element and holder are brand new. The tank is plastic and spotless. New puck up tube. We changed the bottom of the VST tank back in November. cleaned everything, boat got somewhat higher RPM for awhile but would still bog down at RPM's above 4000. Sometimes and I think the hint might be in the sometimes. Yesterday first at 1500, then 2500, 3000, then next thing you know we are doing 5700 and the engine sounds perfect. let it run like that for awhile and pull it back. next time you push the throttle up, advancing the throttle above 1500 engine just bogs again and backfires and coughs. Pull the throttle back slowly and RPM catches to 2200 but bogs as soon as the throttle is advanced. + +We have run the engine under load with the diagnostic on, NADA we run it with the pressure indicator in the rail and when the boat bogs the pressure drops to somewhere below 25. I would have thought that means the problem is before the rail but maybe not? +Thanks for hanging in there we me. as this is very frustrating. +Rick","Yes on the return line. I will try that next time we water test. that is good to know but still not sure if I understand. So that fuel would just be returned to the tank? + +The filter in the VST is 2 micron. Unless you install a 2 micron Racor the filter is doing nothing to stop the white powder. If the filter mount is deteriorating it doesn't matter what size filter you install. If the tank is corroding it may be time to replace it. Is the fuel tank aluminum?[/QUOTE] + +The racor element and holder are brand new. The tank is plastic and spotless. New puck up tube. We changed the bottom of the VST tank back in November. cleaned everything, boat got somewhat higher RPM for awhile but would still bog down at RPM's above 4000. Sometimes and I think the hint might be in the sometimes. Yesterday first at 1500, then 2500, 3000, then next thing you know we are doing 5700 and the engine sounds perfect. let it run like that for awhile and pull it back. next time you push the throttle up, advancing the throttle above 1500 engine just bogs again and backfires and coughs. Pull the throttle back slowly and RPM catches to 2200 but bogs as soon as the throttle is advanced. + +We have run the engine under load with the diagnostic on, NADA we run it with the pressure indicator in the rail and when the boat bogs the pressure drops to somewhere below 25. I would have thought that means the problem is before the rail but maybe not? +Thanks for hanging in there we me. as this is very frustrating. +Rick",What kind of boat is this going on? +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","The problem may just be in the regulator then. The backfire is a lean backfire from lack of fuel. When the engine starts to loose power, pinch off the return. this will tell all. Do it with the fuel pressure gauge attached, If the pressure does not come up, try pumping the fuel primer ball.","The problem may just be in the regulator then. The backfire is a lean backfire from lack of fuel. When the engine starts to loose power, pinch off the return. this will tell all. Do it with the fuel pressure gauge attached, If the pressure does not come up, try pumping the fuel primer ball.","Daveparm said: + + + + By the way.. It seems the C30 Yamaha motors were the 2 cylinder models. Mine is a c30elrq. e being electric start, L being long (20"" shaft --all c's were 20 anyway), not sure about the r and q. I believe the r is 1992 so yours would probably have a p instead of an R? + +Click to expand... + +It is more than seems." +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + The problem may just be in the regulator then. The backfire is a lean backfire from lack of fuel. When the engine starts to loose power, pinch off the return. this will tell all. Do it with the fuel pressure gauge attached, If the pressure does not come up, try pumping the fuel primer ball. + +Click to expand... + + +Yah we have tried that several times with no change. The ball is normally pretty full of fuel but squeezable. When you squeeze it will create more pressure and you can feel the fuel running thru the ball. + +Thanks again, I'll try it when I can get the boat in the water again. Chris Have you ever seen the dry exhaust corrosion before? Have you ever removed a F225 power head? + +Rick","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + The problem may just be in the regulator then. The backfire is a lean backfire from lack of fuel. When the engine starts to loose power, pinch off the return. this will tell all. Do it with the fuel pressure gauge attached, If the pressure does not come up, try pumping the fuel primer ball. + +Click to expand... + + +Yah we have tried that several times with no change. The ball is normally pretty full of fuel but squeezable. When you squeeze it will create more pressure and you can feel the fuel running thru the ball. + +Thanks again, I'll try it when I can get the boat in the water again. Chris Have you ever seen the dry exhaust corrosion before? Have you ever removed a F225 power head? + +Rick",I would use the pressure treated. I would seal it good before putting it in. +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Why yes, yes I have. I have a camera for inspecting it.","Why yes, yes I have. I have a camera for inspecting it.",When does the alarm start sounding? At key-on? Immediately after you start it? After it's been running for a while? +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0 +Can you tell me what you think about this one. Sorry not a very good video. +Thanks, +Rick","http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0 +Can you tell me what you think about this one. Sorry not a very good video. +Thanks, +Rick",Dude its good matching of the color but i have no idea that how much your boat is length basically color is also depend upon the length of the boat...can you show me the pic of the color boat? +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","If you have visible corrosion in the housing, it's time to pull it apart, inspect it and repair it.","If you have visible corrosion in the housing, it's time to pull it apart, inspect it and repair it.",I've looked at other images of that part number and its not right. The arm is to long and on mine the 2 fixing holes are almost parallel where as this part is more of a V. I will look for the number on the CDI unit tomorrow and report back In the meantime many thanks for your help +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Not sure that affects that year Yamaha, but there have been plenty of stories about ethanol fuel deteriorating the fuel lines in you run ethanol gas?","Not sure that affects that year Yamaha, but there have been plenty of stories about ethanol fuel deteriorating the fuel lines in you run ethanol gas?","I wish i had those three then I'd know, all I have is a purple and blue, don't see that combo on any of the drawings." +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","aliboy said: + + + + Not sure that affects that year Yamaha, but there have been plenty of stories about ethanol fuel deteriorating the fuel lines in you run ethanol gas? + +Click to expand... + + Boy were you right on! + + Here is the latest on my Yamaha F-225. On Saturday, we went to the harbor with every intent of fixing the engine. My mechanic set up to run on an external tank, plugged in the computer, and installed a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. Then we laid the cover on as best we could and took the boat for a ride. Pushing the power up felt normal until reaching 3600 RPM where then advancing the throttle resulted in decreased RPM, and sometime a backfire. The fuel pressure would always start at 42 lbs and always drop to the 20 to 30 psi range. The value when the pressure began to drop became the mark of the highest RPM range. It was an obvious fuel problem as pulling the throttle back slowly would result in a temporary rise in RPM. +/- 200. Pushing the throttle full forward always resulted in the engine producing the same RPM. The weird thing about this problem is it never seemed to happen in the same RPM range. One day, or one minute 1500 RPM and next time 4000 rpm. Once in a while the engine would run normally. My mechanic was convinced it was the float in the VST not allowing the fuel to fill the tank. I argued that I would agree if it happened at the same RPM each time. Having the pressure drop each time made me realize that the problem was somewhere between the front filter (where the external tank hooked-up), and the fuel rail (where you can measure pressure). + +He agreed to put the boat on the trailer and take the fuel system apart. Once we got there we traced the entire fuel system and looked for possible problems. We removed the VST cover and found a little crud (again) and cleaned the screen. Then we systematically went thru the system. There are several check valves in the fuel lines and they become a suspect place for build-up or restrictions. With an air nozzle we blew air thru each line along the fuel path. There is a fuel line that comes out of the top of the VST and up over the engine toward the right side (looking forward) rail. These rails are nothing more than tubes that feed fuel to the injectors. When we blew in this line (in the direction of fuel flow) it spit fuel back at us. We tried it several times and it seemed like the check valve at the top of the engine (rail to rail) wouldn’t let fuel pass. We removed the other end of that line where it goes into the stbd (right) rail and blew air into that line. It seemed like a cloud of white junk shot out the other side. In retrospect if I have to do this again I would try to hold a jar on the other side to catch the contents. Be advised that fuel did shoot everywhere so watch your eyes. At that point going back to the other side and blowing on the line out of the VT tank it no longer kicked back fuel and the check valve now appeared to be free. We also found a small slice in one of the vacuum hoses and cut of and replaced the end. We then put the engine back together and methodically strapped all of the fuel lines to make sure each one was clamped. Once done, we ran the engine in the bag (no load) and it ran fine like always did. That is a complex issue for me because it seems like fuel is fuel and this type of problem should always show up. In this case it only happened when running under load. + +Put the boat back in the water and it runs like a champ. No hesitation and 6100 RPM. So I believe it was some deposits from the corroded VST (ethanol) tank clogging the check valve between rails. Put 5 hours on it yesterday and she runs great. + +Just a note of thanks to all who read or replied to my posts on these web sites. Your education and assistance helped me figure this very frustrating problem out. These forums are invaluable and you guys in the know should be commended for taking the time to answer our posts. Thank you! + + +On another quick note. It sounds like this problem is not over yet. I spoke to a guy who maintains a ton of Yamaha engines and he said they had a major problem with many clogging the VST screen. He said they have changed all the hoses on these engines between the racor and the filter on the front of the engine (in the tube). It appears that hose de-laminates from the continued use of Ethanol fuel. Thanks again aliboy as this is the real underlying problem.","aliboy said: + + + + Not sure that affects that year Yamaha, but there have been plenty of stories about ethanol fuel deteriorating the fuel lines in you run ethanol gas? + +Click to expand... + + Boy were you right on! + + Here is the latest on my Yamaha F-225. On Saturday, we went to the harbor with every intent of fixing the engine. My mechanic set up to run on an external tank, plugged in the computer, and installed a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. Then we laid the cover on as best we could and took the boat for a ride. Pushing the power up felt normal until reaching 3600 RPM where then advancing the throttle resulted in decreased RPM, and sometime a backfire. The fuel pressure would always start at 42 lbs and always drop to the 20 to 30 psi range. The value when the pressure began to drop became the mark of the highest RPM range. It was an obvious fuel problem as pulling the throttle back slowly would result in a temporary rise in RPM. +/- 200. Pushing the throttle full forward always resulted in the engine producing the same RPM. The weird thing about this problem is it never seemed to happen in the same RPM range. One day, or one minute 1500 RPM and next time 4000 rpm. Once in a while the engine would run normally. My mechanic was convinced it was the float in the VST not allowing the fuel to fill the tank. I argued that I would agree if it happened at the same RPM each time. Having the pressure drop each time made me realize that the problem was somewhere between the front filter (where the external tank hooked-up), and the fuel rail (where you can measure pressure). + +He agreed to put the boat on the trailer and take the fuel system apart. Once we got there we traced the entire fuel system and looked for possible problems. We removed the VST cover and found a little crud (again) and cleaned the screen. Then we systematically went thru the system. There are several check valves in the fuel lines and they become a suspect place for build-up or restrictions. With an air nozzle we blew air thru each line along the fuel path. There is a fuel line that comes out of the top of the VST and up over the engine toward the right side (looking forward) rail. These rails are nothing more than tubes that feed fuel to the injectors. When we blew in this line (in the direction of fuel flow) it spit fuel back at us. We tried it several times and it seemed like the check valve at the top of the engine (rail to rail) wouldn’t let fuel pass. We removed the other end of that line where it goes into the stbd (right) rail and blew air into that line. It seemed like a cloud of white junk shot out the other side. In retrospect if I have to do this again I would try to hold a jar on the other side to catch the contents. Be advised that fuel did shoot everywhere so watch your eyes. At that point going back to the other side and blowing on the line out of the VT tank it no longer kicked back fuel and the check valve now appeared to be free. We also found a small slice in one of the vacuum hoses and cut of and replaced the end. We then put the engine back together and methodically strapped all of the fuel lines to make sure each one was clamped. Once done, we ran the engine in the bag (no load) and it ran fine like always did. That is a complex issue for me because it seems like fuel is fuel and this type of problem should always show up. In this case it only happened when running under load. + +Put the boat back in the water and it runs like a champ. No hesitation and 6100 RPM. So I believe it was some deposits from the corroded VST (ethanol) tank clogging the check valve between rails. Put 5 hours on it yesterday and she runs great. + +Just a note of thanks to all who read or replied to my posts on these web sites. Your education and assistance helped me figure this very frustrating problem out. These forums are invaluable and you guys in the know should be commended for taking the time to answer our posts. Thank you! + + +On another quick note. It sounds like this problem is not over yet. I spoke to a guy who maintains a ton of Yamaha engines and he said they had a major problem with many clogging the VST screen. He said they have changed all the hoses on these engines between the racor and the filter on the front of the engine (in the tube). It appears that hose de-laminates from the continued use of Ethanol fuel. Thanks again aliboy as this is the real underlying problem.",i assume the guy in your ''story'' is stealing a boat and you want us to tell him how...someone in here may tell you but not me... +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Fishhawaii said: + + + + Boy were you right on! + + Here is the latest on my Yamaha F-225. On Saturday, we went to the harbor with every intent of fixing the engine. My mechanic set up to run on an external tank, plugged in the computer, and installed a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. Then we laid the cover on as best we could and took the boat for a ride. Pushing the power up felt normal until reaching 3600 RPM where then advancing the throttle resulted in decreased RPM, and sometime a backfire. The fuel pressure would always start at 42 lbs and always drop to the 20 to 30 psi range. The value when the pressure began to drop became the mark of the highest RPM range. It was an obvious fuel problem as pulling the throttle back slowly would result in a temporary rise in RPM. +/- 200. Pushing the throttle full forward always resulted in the engine producing the same RPM. The weird thing about this problem is it never seemed to happen in the same RPM range. One day, or one minute 1500 RPM and next time 4000 rpm. Once in a while the engine would run normally. My mechanic was convinced it was the float in the VST not allowing the fuel to fill the tank. I argued that I would agree if it happened at the same RPM each time. Having the pressure drop each time made me realize that the problem was somewhere between the front filter (where the external tank hooked-up), and the fuel rail (where you can measure pressure). + +He agreed to put the boat on the trailer and take the fuel system apart. Once we got there we traced the entire fuel system and looked for possible problems. We removed the VST cover and found a little crud (again) and cleaned the screen. Then we systematically went thru the system. There are several check valves in the fuel lines and they become a suspect place for build-up or restrictions. With an air nozzle we blew air thru each line along the fuel path. There is a fuel line that comes out of the top of the VST and up over the engine toward the right side (looking forward) rail. These rails are nothing more than tubes that feed fuel to the injectors. When we blew in this line (in the direction of fuel flow) it spit fuel back at us. We tried it several times and it seemed like the check valve at the top of the engine (rail to rail) wouldn’t let fuel pass. We removed the other end of that line where it goes into the stbd (right) rail and blew air into that line. It seemed like a cloud of white junk shot out the other side. In retrospect if I have to do this again I would try to hold a jar on the other side to catch the contents. Be advised that fuel did shoot everywhere so watch your eyes. At that point going back to the other side and blowing on the line out of the VT tank it no longer kicked back fuel and the check valve now appeared to be free. We also found a small slice in one of the vacuum hoses and cut of and replaced the end. We then put the engine back together and methodically strapped all of the fuel lines to make sure each one was clamped. Once done, we ran the engine in the bag (no load) and it ran fine like always did. That is a complex issue for me because it seems like fuel is fuel and this type of problem should always show up. In this case it only happened when running under load. + +Put the boat back in the water and it runs like a champ. No hesitation and 6100 RPM. So I believe it was some deposits from the corroded VST (ethanol) tank clogging the check valve between rails. Put 5 hours on it yesterday and she runs great. + +Just a note of thanks to all who read or replied to my posts on these web sites. Your education and assistance helped me figure this very frustrating problem out. These forums are invaluable and you guys in the know should be commended for taking the time to answer our posts. Thank you! + + +On another quick note. It sounds like this problem is not over yet. I spoke to a guy who maintains a ton of Yamaha engines and he said they had a major problem with many clogging the VST screen. He said they have changed all the hoses on these engines between the racor and the filter on the front of the engine (in the tube). It appears that hose de-laminates from the continued use of Ethanol fuel. Thanks again aliboy as this is the real underlying problem. + + +Click to expand... + + +Just to let you all know, I also spent the 3500.00 on the famed lower leg corrosion repair. Mine was not very bad at all. So my F-225 Yamaha is finally perfect? Today I should be fishing in an event that is one pf my lifetime favorite things to do. We are a competitive group of friends and its a once a year deal. Here I sit at home yet again as the fuel bogging issue returned yesterday. No one on the island has a clue as to why this is happening but I clean the VST filter and it runs for somewhere around 20 hours or so and starts the bog thing all over. The screen is not dirty so the problem has to do with something we are touching or moving while doing the process. +To date I have: +1. Removed and cleaned the fuel tank (spotless before i started) +2. Replaced the anti syphon valve and pick-up tube +3. Replaced the fuel indicator and float +4. Replaced the racor unit. +5. Replaced the VST Tank +6. Replaced the F filter (several times) +7. Replaced the high pressure pump +8. Run the boat on an external tank +9. Run the boat with a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. When pressure drops to 20 psi boat runs like crap. +10. Replaced every fuel filter several times (not dirty) +11. Cleaned the VST screen 8 times. (mostly not dirty) +12. Blown out every fuel line. +About the only thing left I can think of is taking this beautiful 225 Yamaha 4 stroke and shoving it very deep into the engineers (who designed such a piece of Crap) exhaust cavity. Does anyone know who I can call from Yamaha and discuss this? Please don't say a dealer as their is no one qualified to work on this engine for 2500 miles. +I guess now I need to install a vacuum gauge to see what the pressure is doing before the engine. +Do yourself a favor don't buy one.....ever!","Fishhawaii said: + + + + Boy were you right on! + + Here is the latest on my Yamaha F-225. On Saturday, we went to the harbor with every intent of fixing the engine. My mechanic set up to run on an external tank, plugged in the computer, and installed a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. Then we laid the cover on as best we could and took the boat for a ride. Pushing the power up felt normal until reaching 3600 RPM where then advancing the throttle resulted in decreased RPM, and sometime a backfire. The fuel pressure would always start at 42 lbs and always drop to the 20 to 30 psi range. The value when the pressure began to drop became the mark of the highest RPM range. It was an obvious fuel problem as pulling the throttle back slowly would result in a temporary rise in RPM. +/- 200. Pushing the throttle full forward always resulted in the engine producing the same RPM. The weird thing about this problem is it never seemed to happen in the same RPM range. One day, or one minute 1500 RPM and next time 4000 rpm. Once in a while the engine would run normally. My mechanic was convinced it was the float in the VST not allowing the fuel to fill the tank. I argued that I would agree if it happened at the same RPM each time. Having the pressure drop each time made me realize that the problem was somewhere between the front filter (where the external tank hooked-up), and the fuel rail (where you can measure pressure). + +He agreed to put the boat on the trailer and take the fuel system apart. Once we got there we traced the entire fuel system and looked for possible problems. We removed the VST cover and found a little crud (again) and cleaned the screen. Then we systematically went thru the system. There are several check valves in the fuel lines and they become a suspect place for build-up or restrictions. With an air nozzle we blew air thru each line along the fuel path. There is a fuel line that comes out of the top of the VST and up over the engine toward the right side (looking forward) rail. These rails are nothing more than tubes that feed fuel to the injectors. When we blew in this line (in the direction of fuel flow) it spit fuel back at us. We tried it several times and it seemed like the check valve at the top of the engine (rail to rail) wouldn’t let fuel pass. We removed the other end of that line where it goes into the stbd (right) rail and blew air into that line. It seemed like a cloud of white junk shot out the other side. In retrospect if I have to do this again I would try to hold a jar on the other side to catch the contents. Be advised that fuel did shoot everywhere so watch your eyes. At that point going back to the other side and blowing on the line out of the VT tank it no longer kicked back fuel and the check valve now appeared to be free. We also found a small slice in one of the vacuum hoses and cut of and replaced the end. We then put the engine back together and methodically strapped all of the fuel lines to make sure each one was clamped. Once done, we ran the engine in the bag (no load) and it ran fine like always did. That is a complex issue for me because it seems like fuel is fuel and this type of problem should always show up. In this case it only happened when running under load. + +Put the boat back in the water and it runs like a champ. No hesitation and 6100 RPM. So I believe it was some deposits from the corroded VST (ethanol) tank clogging the check valve between rails. Put 5 hours on it yesterday and she runs great. + +Just a note of thanks to all who read or replied to my posts on these web sites. Your education and assistance helped me figure this very frustrating problem out. These forums are invaluable and you guys in the know should be commended for taking the time to answer our posts. Thank you! + + +On another quick note. It sounds like this problem is not over yet. I spoke to a guy who maintains a ton of Yamaha engines and he said they had a major problem with many clogging the VST screen. He said they have changed all the hoses on these engines between the racor and the filter on the front of the engine (in the tube). It appears that hose de-laminates from the continued use of Ethanol fuel. Thanks again aliboy as this is the real underlying problem. + + +Click to expand... + + +Just to let you all know, I also spent the 3500.00 on the famed lower leg corrosion repair. Mine was not very bad at all. So my F-225 Yamaha is finally perfect? Today I should be fishing in an event that is one pf my lifetime favorite things to do. We are a competitive group of friends and its a once a year deal. Here I sit at home yet again as the fuel bogging issue returned yesterday. No one on the island has a clue as to why this is happening but I clean the VST filter and it runs for somewhere around 20 hours or so and starts the bog thing all over. The screen is not dirty so the problem has to do with something we are touching or moving while doing the process. +To date I have: +1. Removed and cleaned the fuel tank (spotless before i started) +2. Replaced the anti syphon valve and pick-up tube +3. Replaced the fuel indicator and float +4. Replaced the racor unit. +5. Replaced the VST Tank +6. Replaced the F filter (several times) +7. Replaced the high pressure pump +8. Run the boat on an external tank +9. Run the boat with a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. When pressure drops to 20 psi boat runs like crap. +10. Replaced every fuel filter several times (not dirty) +11. Cleaned the VST screen 8 times. (mostly not dirty) +12. Blown out every fuel line. +About the only thing left I can think of is taking this beautiful 225 Yamaha 4 stroke and shoving it very deep into the engineers (who designed such a piece of Crap) exhaust cavity. Does anyone know who I can call from Yamaha and discuss this? Please don't say a dealer as their is no one qualified to work on this engine for 2500 miles. +I guess now I need to install a vacuum gauge to see what the pressure is doing before the engine. +Do yourself a favor don't buy one.....ever!",Sorry I can't tell from that diagram. Just operate the trim switch and see which relay is clicking. That will be the one and you should be able to quite easily trace the wires down towards the trim motor. +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Yamaha builds an extremely good product. Not designed to be serviced by the owner. + +If you are losing fuel pressure and the VST and screen are clean, then you have lack of fuel flow to the VST. Make sure the low pressure supply pump is working. Make sure you do not have a kink in the fuel line somewhere between the primer ball and the VST. Make sure there are no restrictions on the fuel supply side in the VST including the vent.","Yamaha builds an extremely good product. Not designed to be serviced by the owner. + +If you are losing fuel pressure and the VST and screen are clean, then you have lack of fuel flow to the VST. Make sure the low pressure supply pump is working. Make sure you do not have a kink in the fuel line somewhere between the primer ball and the VST. Make sure there are no restrictions on the fuel supply side in the VST including the vent.",I know this post is old but i was just able to pick one of these up clean and real cheap. they had the original manual in great shape which has some good info in it. So if anyone is searching for info on one of these motors as i was feel free to reach out and i can get you whats in the manual. [email protected] +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Yamaha builds an extremely good product. Not designed to be serviced by the owner. + +If you are losing fuel pressure and the VST and screen are clean, then you have lack of fuel flow to the VST. Make sure the low pressure supply pump is working. Make sure you do not have a kink in the fuel line somewhere between the primer ball and the VST. Make sure there are no restrictions on the fuel supply side in the VST including the vent. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Chris, +Actually only been two of the best outboard guys around working on the engine. I just watch but when you keep throwing money it gets frustrating and you start looking to the promised land for help. As you know, these intermittent problems like most will drive people nuts and I believe you are on the right track. Every time we clean the VST we wiggle the problem and it works for awhile or we are sucking air slowly and takes 20 hours to have an effect. While the fuel lines have no visible kinks,what do you think about installing a vacuum gauge on the front side to see of the pump is actually working or if we have a restriction. Some folks tell me if the engine runs, the lift pump is working. I am considering another thousand in injectors and replacing all the hoses and check valves on the engine. Do you know if the internal hoses are susceptible to damage from ethanol? +Some say only the external ones. +Can you please tell me how the VST is vented as this is a first for me. When the problem exists, I have run the boat several times on an external tank and it makes no difference. So my main focus has been on the area from the front filter to the VST where I too believe the problem exists. Any help would be appreciated. +While Yamaha might make a good product, their support sucks. All I have been looking for is a number I can call and have someone (don't care if they are indian and reading from a book) say ok do this first. I understand they want me to take it to their tecks but the closest one is 2500 miles away. I simply can't. + +I believe there are many hints. +Boat never stops running, ever +RPM range where the bogging starts differs all the time. +When it's not happening I get 6000 screaming RPM's. +When the problem is happening squeezing the ball makes no difference +When the problem is happening pinching the fuel line makes no difference. +Computer has never shown any faults. +When the fuel pressure on the rail drops to 20 lbs the engine runs rough. + +This time we had to bring the boat in for 2 hours at 2000 rpm. It ran extremely rough. When we opened the engine the fuel boxes were saturated with fuel and the #1 sparkplug was fouled. All other plugs showed a lack of fuel. I believe this is a result of running the engine with low fuel pressure and not part of the problem. Any feelings? Could one sticky injector cause all the fuel to dump? I am concerned about long term damage from running the engine like this or a possible hydro-lock?? +Thanks for your help as again any will be appreciated. +Rick","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Yamaha builds an extremely good product. Not designed to be serviced by the owner. + +If you are losing fuel pressure and the VST and screen are clean, then you have lack of fuel flow to the VST. Make sure the low pressure supply pump is working. Make sure you do not have a kink in the fuel line somewhere between the primer ball and the VST. Make sure there are no restrictions on the fuel supply side in the VST including the vent. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Chris, +Actually only been two of the best outboard guys around working on the engine. I just watch but when you keep throwing money it gets frustrating and you start looking to the promised land for help. As you know, these intermittent problems like most will drive people nuts and I believe you are on the right track. Every time we clean the VST we wiggle the problem and it works for awhile or we are sucking air slowly and takes 20 hours to have an effect. While the fuel lines have no visible kinks,what do you think about installing a vacuum gauge on the front side to see of the pump is actually working or if we have a restriction. Some folks tell me if the engine runs, the lift pump is working. I am considering another thousand in injectors and replacing all the hoses and check valves on the engine. Do you know if the internal hoses are susceptible to damage from ethanol? +Some say only the external ones. +Can you please tell me how the VST is vented as this is a first for me. When the problem exists, I have run the boat several times on an external tank and it makes no difference. So my main focus has been on the area from the front filter to the VST where I too believe the problem exists. Any help would be appreciated. +While Yamaha might make a good product, their support sucks. All I have been looking for is a number I can call and have someone (don't care if they are indian and reading from a book) say ok do this first. I understand they want me to take it to their tecks but the closest one is 2500 miles away. I simply can't. + +I believe there are many hints. +Boat never stops running, ever +RPM range where the bogging starts differs all the time. +When it's not happening I get 6000 screaming RPM's. +When the problem is happening squeezing the ball makes no difference +When the problem is happening pinching the fuel line makes no difference. +Computer has never shown any faults. +When the fuel pressure on the rail drops to 20 lbs the engine runs rough. + +This time we had to bring the boat in for 2 hours at 2000 rpm. It ran extremely rough. When we opened the engine the fuel boxes were saturated with fuel and the #1 sparkplug was fouled. All other plugs showed a lack of fuel. I believe this is a result of running the engine with low fuel pressure and not part of the problem. Any feelings? Could one sticky injector cause all the fuel to dump? I am concerned about long term damage from running the engine like this or a possible hydro-lock?? +Thanks for your help as again any will be appreciated. +Rick",I haven't started it yet. Waiting for fuel pump parts. Previous owner took apart and two springs missing and ripped diaphragm. Just noticed the coil cracks and started looking for a replacement just in case. Thanks for your help. +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0",If the fuel pressure is dropping it is not the injectors. You have a fuel supply problem to the High pressure pump or the high pressure pump itself is bad. Disconnect the vacuum line to the regulator and retest for the pressure loss.,If the fuel pressure is dropping it is not the injectors. You have a fuel supply problem to the High pressure pump or the high pressure pump itself is bad. Disconnect the vacuum line to the regulator and retest for the pressure loss.,I ordered a whole new control unit. Hoping to be able to be back on the water with no issues. +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0",Where are you located?,Where are you located?,"So I had time to at least look at the cabling. I took photos, rotated them in photoshop to give you a good look at them, and this forum is having an error trying to upload them, hopefully they go through. Let me post this first to see if the pics work...." +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Hawaii +Thanks. + + + +Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Where are you located? + +Click to expand...","Hawaii +Thanks. + + + +Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Where are you located? + +Click to expand...",Sorry but it's just an Italian saying +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Fishhawaii said: + + + + Hawaii +Thanks. + +Click to expand... + + +Just a little too far for me to travel to.....","Fishhawaii said: + + + + Hawaii +Thanks. + +Click to expand... + + +Just a little too far for me to travel to.....",What is the current battery voltage? +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","I was thinking about offering you a Hawaiian vacation but I might need the money to get my boat repaired. Maybe a Hawaiian care package with sun, sand, mac nuts and pineapple will help in the dead of winter. +This thing has become very expensive and frustrating and I am more determined than ever to fix it. I really don't have a choice as there is no one here very qualified. I do have two great mechanics who are outboard guys and have done all of my work. They are quite capable but frustrated too. I have been told to install a temp vacuum gauge between the racor and the engine as well as the fuel pressure guage on the rail. If/when the problem happens the vacuum should show +1. The life pump not operating normally. +2. Restriction in the fuel system +3. Air leak in the lines or system. + +Would you agree that this is the best next step? My main focus is that the pressure drops from 40 to 20 and then the boat runs like crap. I need to find out why that happens and I believe when we clean the VST we jiggle something that makes it work for awhile. 20 hours later it returns. Anyone with ideas is welcome to respond as I am running out of them as we speak. +Thanks Chris, +Rick + + + + +Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Just a little too far for me to travel to..... + +Click to expand...","I was thinking about offering you a Hawaiian vacation but I might need the money to get my boat repaired. Maybe a Hawaiian care package with sun, sand, mac nuts and pineapple will help in the dead of winter. +This thing has become very expensive and frustrating and I am more determined than ever to fix it. I really don't have a choice as there is no one here very qualified. I do have two great mechanics who are outboard guys and have done all of my work. They are quite capable but frustrated too. I have been told to install a temp vacuum gauge between the racor and the engine as well as the fuel pressure guage on the rail. If/when the problem happens the vacuum should show +1. The life pump not operating normally. +2. Restriction in the fuel system +3. Air leak in the lines or system. + +Would you agree that this is the best next step? My main focus is that the pressure drops from 40 to 20 and then the boat runs like crap. I need to find out why that happens and I believe when we clean the VST we jiggle something that makes it work for awhile. 20 hours later it returns. Anyone with ideas is welcome to respond as I am running out of them as we speak. +Thanks Chris, +Rick + + + + +Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Just a little too far for me to travel to..... + +Click to expand...","yes both the block is same,displacement is 1730 cm3, i think you can swap it. + +wajira" +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Geeze... Having read this thread I feel for you Fish. There is nothing more maddening that chasing a ghost. I'll toss in my 2 cents worth as I've no idea what it could be since you've tried about everything... Have you gone all the way back, beyond all of the filters you've changed and looked at the fuel feed line that sits at the bottom of the main gas tank? Sometimes that feed line has a filter on it at the end of that hose that sits on the bottom of the main tank. The sloshing around of the fuel in the tank will clear it over and over and then when under way as it is drawing fuel it gets clogged over and over. I've seen a few chase ghosts for countless dollars only to find that a stupid filter at the end of the fuel pick up in the bottom of the tank is causing the problem. If you pull that fuel line in the main gas tank and there is a filter on the end of it, pull that damned filter, throw it away, and put the line back into the tank. There's no need for that stupid little filter it with a Racor inline followed by all the others along the way. A $5 filter that never should have been put there could be causing all of these random fuel flow problems.","Geeze... Having read this thread I feel for you Fish. There is nothing more maddening that chasing a ghost. I'll toss in my 2 cents worth as I've no idea what it could be since you've tried about everything... Have you gone all the way back, beyond all of the filters you've changed and looked at the fuel feed line that sits at the bottom of the main gas tank? Sometimes that feed line has a filter on it at the end of that hose that sits on the bottom of the main tank. The sloshing around of the fuel in the tank will clear it over and over and then when under way as it is drawing fuel it gets clogged over and over. I've seen a few chase ghosts for countless dollars only to find that a stupid filter at the end of the fuel pick up in the bottom of the tank is causing the problem. If you pull that fuel line in the main gas tank and there is a filter on the end of it, pull that damned filter, throw it away, and put the line back into the tank. There's no need for that stupid little filter it with a Racor inline followed by all the others along the way. A $5 filter that never should have been put there could be causing all of these random fuel flow problems.","1999 Yamaha 150 hp 2-stroke model c150txrx. Engine stalled out wot, acted like out of fuel which I believed was the problem since the fuel gauge said empty. I tried restart several times no go. Continued to fuel dock with kicker engine. Just had this engine in shop for losing power on plane wot, mechanic replaced all fuel lines, found water fuel separator full of water which was replaced; every thing was running great, mechanic took boat out and ran over half hour with no problem. + So back to the latest problem, at the fuel dock put 6 gallons in the tank. The engine finally started after several attempts, pumped up primer bulb several times before engine finally started. Engine mechanic at fuel dock said engine had ran out of fuel, hard starting was because it took several tries to fill all six carb floats. Pulled the boat went to fuel station, this boat has a 100 gallon tank, I put 6 gallons in at the fuel dock, the pump quit after loading 29 gallons. Fuel gauge now shows full, verified that by pulling the fuel sender out, fuel was maybe 1 inch below the top of the tank. The weird thing is I have a 100 gallon tank, only took 35 gallons counting the 6 at the fuel dock. This sender has a gauge on it that shows full, so both the dash gauge and the sender show full. At the time of engine stall the dash showed empty, never looked at the sender gauge to verify the two were showing empty. + Took the boat out last Tuesday, ran to the same spot we went to when we had the engine stall, engine ran great the whole trip. Loaded the boat on trailer and went to fuel station, only took 5 gallons to fill after 14 mile round trip. That sure looks like pretty good fuel consumption. I have pulled the fuel pick up and anti-siphon barb, both were fine. + I'm just puzzled that everyone at the fuel dock was certain that I had ran out of fuel yet it only took 35 gallons to fill the tank. What the heck would have caused the engine to stall like it was out of fuel though evidence shows that never happened. The last time out the engine never quit after traveling the same distance traveled. I am stumped, any ideas guys?" +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","deepsea21 said: + + + + Geeze... Having read this thread I feel for you Fish. There is nothing more maddening that chasing a ghost. I'll toss in my 2 cents worth as I've no idea what it could be since you've tried about everything... Have you gone all the way back, beyond all of the filters you've changed and looked at the fuel feed line that sits at the bottom of the main gas tank? Sometimes that feed line has a filter on it at the end of that hose that sits on the bottom of the main tank. The sloshing around of the fuel in the tank will clear it over and over and then when under way as it is drawing fuel it gets clogged over and over. I've seen a few chase ghosts for countless dollars only to find that a stupid filter at the end of the fuel pick up in the bottom of the tank is causing the problem. If you pull that fuel line in the main gas tank and there is a filter on the end of it, pull that damned filter, throw it away, and put the line back into the tank. There's no need for that stupid little filter it with a Racor inline followed by all the others along the way. A $5 filter that never should have been put there could be causing all of these random fuel flow problems. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks, Actually we have ran the engine off of an external tank twice when the problem is happening and no change. When we first started with this we pulled the tank (which was spotless) and cleaned it with alcohol and vacuumed it out. Then we changed the pck-up tube and the antisyphon valve as well as the fuel level indicator in the tank. last night we found that the return line to the VST had some white deposits in it and it appeared like the lift pump was a little weak. We changed the pump and it seems to run a little better but I will not know until I can run it under load. In the end we will change all of the fuel lines including the tank to racor to engine. It's getting pretty expensive but I'm lucky to have a couple of friends do most of the work. I am also waiting for a vacuum gauge to measure the suction in the front of the engine while monitoring the fuel pressure on the rail. Hopefully that will tell me if I have an air leak, blockage or if the lift pump is operating normally. I'll keep you posted and thanks for the encouragement.","deepsea21 said: + + + + Geeze... Having read this thread I feel for you Fish. There is nothing more maddening that chasing a ghost. I'll toss in my 2 cents worth as I've no idea what it could be since you've tried about everything... Have you gone all the way back, beyond all of the filters you've changed and looked at the fuel feed line that sits at the bottom of the main gas tank? Sometimes that feed line has a filter on it at the end of that hose that sits on the bottom of the main tank. The sloshing around of the fuel in the tank will clear it over and over and then when under way as it is drawing fuel it gets clogged over and over. I've seen a few chase ghosts for countless dollars only to find that a stupid filter at the end of the fuel pick up in the bottom of the tank is causing the problem. If you pull that fuel line in the main gas tank and there is a filter on the end of it, pull that damned filter, throw it away, and put the line back into the tank. There's no need for that stupid little filter it with a Racor inline followed by all the others along the way. A $5 filter that never should have been put there could be causing all of these random fuel flow problems. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks, Actually we have ran the engine off of an external tank twice when the problem is happening and no change. When we first started with this we pulled the tank (which was spotless) and cleaned it with alcohol and vacuumed it out. Then we changed the pck-up tube and the antisyphon valve as well as the fuel level indicator in the tank. last night we found that the return line to the VST had some white deposits in it and it appeared like the lift pump was a little weak. We changed the pump and it seems to run a little better but I will not know until I can run it under load. In the end we will change all of the fuel lines including the tank to racor to engine. It's getting pretty expensive but I'm lucky to have a couple of friends do most of the work. I am also waiting for a vacuum gauge to measure the suction in the front of the engine while monitoring the fuel pressure on the rail. Hopefully that will tell me if I have an air leak, blockage or if the lift pump is operating normally. I'll keep you posted and thanks for the encouragement.",There is normally a seal on the shift shaft as well. Is this what is leaking? Don't forget that you ideally should vacumm test as well. Some of the seals are holding vacuum rather than pressure. +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Fishhawaii said: + + + + Thanks, Actually we have ran the engine off of an external tank twice when the problem is happening and no change. When we first started with this we pulled the tank (which was spotless) and cleaned it with alcohol and vacuumed it out. Then we changed the pck-up tube and the antisyphon valve as well as the fuel level indicator in the tank. last night we found that the return line to the VST had some white deposits in it and it appeared like the lift pump was a little weak. We changed the pump and it seems to run a little better but I will not know until I can run it under load. In the end we will change all of the fuel lines including the tank to racor to engine. It's getting pretty expensive but I'm lucky to have a couple of friends do most of the work. I am also waiting for a vacuum gauge to measure the suction in the front of the engine while monitoring the fuel pressure on the rail. Hopefully that will tell me if I have an air leak, blockage or if the lift pump is operating normally. I'll keep you posted and thanks for the encouragement. + +Click to expand... + + have you replaced needle valve and seat in the vst.Make sure vent to vacuum box is clear and breathing.","Fishhawaii said: + + + + Thanks, Actually we have ran the engine off of an external tank twice when the problem is happening and no change. When we first started with this we pulled the tank (which was spotless) and cleaned it with alcohol and vacuumed it out. Then we changed the pck-up tube and the antisyphon valve as well as the fuel level indicator in the tank. last night we found that the return line to the VST had some white deposits in it and it appeared like the lift pump was a little weak. We changed the pump and it seems to run a little better but I will not know until I can run it under load. In the end we will change all of the fuel lines including the tank to racor to engine. It's getting pretty expensive but I'm lucky to have a couple of friends do most of the work. I am also waiting for a vacuum gauge to measure the suction in the front of the engine while monitoring the fuel pressure on the rail. Hopefully that will tell me if I have an air leak, blockage or if the lift pump is operating normally. I'll keep you posted and thanks for the encouragement. + +Click to expand... + + have you replaced needle valve and seat in the vst.Make sure vent to vacuum box is clear and breathing.","bondo , + + + + +[URL=""http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/member.php?42677-o2batsea""]o2batsea,[/URL] +Thank you for your suggestions. I will have to see if I can figure out how to access the fuel dip tube and check that out. But not sure how the engine could run perfectly at lower fuel levels if it was sucking so much air that the engine will not start. + +I had the carb on this motor rebuilt to try to address this issue. I will look at it to see if I can see anything that looks suspicious though. The guy that rebuilt the carb said something about that it did not have some check valve in it when he rebuilt it so he did not put one back in (he is an automotive guy, not a marine guy and he thought it may have been taken out on purpose.) I can ask him if this could have anything to do with the bowl draining or evaporating. How do you think the potential issue you describe could have anything related to how much fuel is in the tank? I am not following that. It seems like the bowl draining would be a problem regardless. Perhaps a compounding issue though. Any other thoughts? + +Thanks Again for the Assistance, + +Alan" +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","I had a similar problem with a 225 4 stroke(2005). It was fuel injectors, and dealer replaced them all. Now getting 5800 RPMs but sometimes won't WOT. I'm running 3 225s. 480 hours. VST and rail pressure were checked by dealer's best mechanic for 40 hours of work until back fire was eliminated. Imagine the bill I had?","I had a similar problem with a 225 4 stroke(2005). It was fuel injectors, and dealer replaced them all. Now getting 5800 RPMs but sometimes won't WOT. I'm running 3 225s. 480 hours. VST and rail pressure were checked by dealer's best mechanic for 40 hours of work until back fire was eliminated. Imagine the bill I had?","Thanks, I did find a slotted adjustment dial under a rubber plug on the back of the Tach. When turned with motor running it only seems peg it to 7000 rpm idling and off. I have been trying make sure the tach is compatible with motor but not having any luck finding that data" +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","Fishhawaii said: + + + + Boy were you right on! + + Here is the latest on my Yamaha F-225. On Saturday, we went to the harbor with every intent of fixing the engine. My mechanic set up to run on an external tank, plugged in the computer, and installed a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. Then we laid the cover on as best we could and took the boat for a ride. Pushing the power up felt normal until reaching 3600 RPM where then advancing the throttle resulted in decreased RPM, and sometime a backfire. The fuel pressure would always start at 42 lbs and always drop to the 20 to 30 psi range. The value when the pressure began to drop became the mark of the highest RPM range. It was an obvious fuel problem as pulling the throttle back slowly would result in a temporary rise in RPM. +/- 200. Pushing the throttle full forward always resulted in the engine producing the same RPM. The weird thing about this problem is it never seemed to happen in the same RPM range. One day, or one minute 1500 RPM and next time 4000 rpm. Once in a while the engine would run normally. My mechanic was convinced it was the float in the VST not allowing the fuel to fill the tank. I argued that I would agree if it happened at the same RPM each time. Having the pressure drop each time made me realize that the problem was somewhere between the front filter (where the external tank hooked-up), and the fuel rail (where you can measure pressure). + +He agreed to put the boat on the trailer and take the fuel system apart. Once we got there we traced the entire fuel system and looked for possible problems. We removed the VST cover and found a little crud (again) and cleaned the screen. Then we systematically went thru the system. There are several check valves in the fuel lines and they become a suspect place for build-up or restrictions. With an air nozzle we blew air thru each line along the fuel path. There is a fuel line that comes out of the top of the VST and up over the engine toward the right side (looking forward) rail. These rails are nothing more than tubes that feed fuel to the injectors. When we blew in this line (in the direction of fuel flow) it spit fuel back at us. We tried it several times and it seemed like the check valve at the top of the engine (rail to rail) wouldn’t let fuel pass. We removed the other end of that line where it goes into the stbd (right) rail and blew air into that line. It seemed like a cloud of white junk shot out the other side. In retrospect if I have to do this again I would try to hold a jar on the other side to catch the contents. Be advised that fuel did shoot everywhere so watch your eyes. At that point going back to the other side and blowing on the line out of the VT tank it no longer kicked back fuel and the check valve now appeared to be free. We also found a small slice in one of the vacuum hoses and cut of and replaced the end. We then put the engine back together and methodically strapped all of the fuel lines to make sure each one was clamped. Once done, we ran the engine in the bag (no load) and it ran fine like always did. That is a complex issue for me because it seems like fuel is fuel and this type of problem should always show up. In this case it only happened when running under load. + +Put the boat back in the water and it runs like a champ. No hesitation and 6100 RPM. So I believe it was some deposits from the corroded VST (ethanol) tank clogging the check valve between rails. Put 5 hours on it yesterday and she runs great. + +Just a note of thanks to all who read or replied to my posts on these web sites. Your education and assistance helped me figure this very frustrating problem out. These forums are invaluable and you guys in the know should be commended for taking the time to answer our posts. Thank you! + + +On another quick note. It sounds like this problem is not over yet. I spoke to a guy who maintains a ton of Yamaha engines and he said they had a major problem with many clogging the VST screen. He said they have changed all the hoses on these engines between the racor and the filter on the front of the engine (in the tube). It appears that hose de-laminates from the continued use of Ethanol fuel. Thanks again aliboy as this is the real underlying problem. + + + +Click to expand... + + + +I have aver exactly the same problem with the same 2004 225hp. Did you solve the problem? I'm desperate on this ...","Fishhawaii said: + + + + Boy were you right on! + + Here is the latest on my Yamaha F-225. On Saturday, we went to the harbor with every intent of fixing the engine. My mechanic set up to run on an external tank, plugged in the computer, and installed a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. Then we laid the cover on as best we could and took the boat for a ride. Pushing the power up felt normal until reaching 3600 RPM where then advancing the throttle resulted in decreased RPM, and sometime a backfire. The fuel pressure would always start at 42 lbs and always drop to the 20 to 30 psi range. The value when the pressure began to drop became the mark of the highest RPM range. It was an obvious fuel problem as pulling the throttle back slowly would result in a temporary rise in RPM. +/- 200. Pushing the throttle full forward always resulted in the engine producing the same RPM. The weird thing about this problem is it never seemed to happen in the same RPM range. One day, or one minute 1500 RPM and next time 4000 rpm. Once in a while the engine would run normally. My mechanic was convinced it was the float in the VST not allowing the fuel to fill the tank. I argued that I would agree if it happened at the same RPM each time. Having the pressure drop each time made me realize that the problem was somewhere between the front filter (where the external tank hooked-up), and the fuel rail (where you can measure pressure). + +He agreed to put the boat on the trailer and take the fuel system apart. Once we got there we traced the entire fuel system and looked for possible problems. We removed the VST cover and found a little crud (again) and cleaned the screen. Then we systematically went thru the system. There are several check valves in the fuel lines and they become a suspect place for build-up or restrictions. With an air nozzle we blew air thru each line along the fuel path. There is a fuel line that comes out of the top of the VST and up over the engine toward the right side (looking forward) rail. These rails are nothing more than tubes that feed fuel to the injectors. When we blew in this line (in the direction of fuel flow) it spit fuel back at us. We tried it several times and it seemed like the check valve at the top of the engine (rail to rail) wouldn’t let fuel pass. We removed the other end of that line where it goes into the stbd (right) rail and blew air into that line. It seemed like a cloud of white junk shot out the other side. In retrospect if I have to do this again I would try to hold a jar on the other side to catch the contents. Be advised that fuel did shoot everywhere so watch your eyes. At that point going back to the other side and blowing on the line out of the VT tank it no longer kicked back fuel and the check valve now appeared to be free. We also found a small slice in one of the vacuum hoses and cut of and replaced the end. We then put the engine back together and methodically strapped all of the fuel lines to make sure each one was clamped. Once done, we ran the engine in the bag (no load) and it ran fine like always did. That is a complex issue for me because it seems like fuel is fuel and this type of problem should always show up. In this case it only happened when running under load. + +Put the boat back in the water and it runs like a champ. No hesitation and 6100 RPM. So I believe it was some deposits from the corroded VST (ethanol) tank clogging the check valve between rails. Put 5 hours on it yesterday and she runs great. + +Just a note of thanks to all who read or replied to my posts on these web sites. Your education and assistance helped me figure this very frustrating problem out. These forums are invaluable and you guys in the know should be commended for taking the time to answer our posts. Thank you! + + +On another quick note. It sounds like this problem is not over yet. I spoke to a guy who maintains a ton of Yamaha engines and he said they had a major problem with many clogging the VST screen. He said they have changed all the hoses on these engines between the racor and the filter on the front of the engine (in the tube). It appears that hose de-laminates from the continued use of Ethanol fuel. Thanks again aliboy as this is the real underlying problem. + + + +Click to expand... + + + +I have aver exactly the same problem with the same 2004 225hp. Did you solve the problem? I'm desperate on this ...","I should have said it is a 4 stroke, also the oil leak is a 1/4 litre every 3 hours not a 1/4 later. If the leak is originating in the oil pan area is it possible to get to it without removing the power head from the base gasket ? I just replaced that and would like to avoid doing it again." +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","@MarineTec.Support said: + + + +https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/marine-outboard-guide/id915267595?ls=1&mt=8 + +Click to expand... + +Thank you. That is a nice app for starters but unfortunately that is not what I need.","@MarineTec.Support said: + + + +https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/marine-outboard-guide/id915267595?ls=1&mt=8 + +Click to expand... + +Thank you. That is a nice app for starters but unfortunately that is not what I need.","I have the same problem, I'm going to change out the helm and see if it makes a difference." +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","FishHawaii, were you able to find the problem??? I need help on this","FishHawaii, were you able to find the problem??? I need help on this","Silicone is used by people who have never had to remove it ten years later. +Not surprising but the same caulk you use on your house works on a boat. Dap Alex plus is my go-to. Takes paint, cleans up with water, sticks to everything and lasts for years. If you have to remove it it is soft enough that it comes off pretty easy. I rarely use 5200 except for places below the waterline for permanent install. Thing is once you take the cap off, that's it. Begins to catalyze and after a week or two you have a solid lump inside the tube. I buy the little tubes but even then I throw away more than I ever use. +For things that might be removed, I like to use dum dum. Also known as rope caulk. Usually found in with the weatherstripping. you put this between the deck and what you're bolting, and then tighten the fasteners. It's non hardening, so years later if you want to remove that thing it will come away clean. I put this around the stainless thru hull fittings for the bilge pump outlet. Works great. +There are bazillions of dedicated products, but the best are the simplest/cheapest. In the old days the only thing they used was white lead and linseed oil mixed to peanut butter consistency. This was known as bedding compound and got slapped on everything. Sorta like window glazing putty, if you know what that is." +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0",I just replaced the vacuum canister and all three small aluminum check valves. Still same problem. Pressure on the rail is around 44 psi. Injectors replaced after originals were cleaned several times...same problem or even worst after this,I just replaced the vacuum canister and all three small aluminum check valves. Still same problem. Pressure on the rail is around 44 psi. Injectors replaced after originals were cleaned several times...same problem or even worst after this,"I don't know if it's required or not...but why wouldn't you want one? Say the boat gets rained in and you don't have a battery handy... + + +Do it right and keep the drain." +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","While I can see it has been several years since this was an active post, was there ever a solution? I have the same issues happening to a 2004 Yamaha F225. Been going on for a year and a half. Think it's fixed and two months later it's back. I can't stand an intermittent problem that can't be fixed. How do you trust your rig? I'm happy to spend the money, if I know what to do. I'd love to hear how it all went for you.","While I can see it has been several years since this was an active post, was there ever a solution? I have the same issues happening to a 2004 Yamaha F225. Been going on for a year and a half. Think it's fixed and two months later it's back. I can't stand an intermittent problem that can't be fixed. How do you trust your rig? I'm happy to spend the money, if I know what to do. I'd love to hear how it all went for you.","125 should be fine, as long as you had the throttle wide open when you did the test. So I think the main thing to focus on would be your note about the spark plugs fouling since you noticed the performance problem. Assuming the compression is ok and you installed the correct plugs, then that means it's running rich due to incorrect fuel pressure. Almost always, that means it's the carbs. I would just replace them at this point. I've heard from many people that these carbs are extremely difficult to clean and tune. + +You can also try measuring the fuel pressure to see if it's higher than the expected range for that engine. If it's not too high, then start looking into all components related to ignition." +"I know some dealer or boat owner has had this problem or heard of one like it before I'm in dire need of assistance and ideas before I just give up. +last October my 2004 F-225 lost RMP while leaving the dock. When I advanced power lever to 2100 RPM it would just bog down. Called a mechanic and ran the boat at the dock. Put it under load and it worked fine. Left the dock and got 6000 RPM for almost an hour. Then RPM dropped off and and boat would barely run above idle. 1/2 hour later boat ran fine. When we put it on the trailer it would not get above 1500 RPM. + +Mechanic said VST screen was probably clogged so we removed it. it was full of white chalky stuff. Cleaned the VST screen and boat ran great for 14 hours. Same problem returned but have more depth now. When accelerating, sometimes at a RPM range near 2000, or 3000 or 5000 the boat suddenly bogs down. If you continue to push up the throttle RPM decreases but when you pull the throttle back, at some point RPM increases again. When it happens engine does run rougher than normal but one minute later smooth as can be at 6000 rpm. Put a fuel guage on the rail pressure at 42 lbs then suddenly drops to 20 then boat runs real rough at 10 shuts down. Ran on an external tank same problem. Have done diagnostic several times no problems show up. + +Took the VST screen off again and found it full of white powder. Found the bottom of the VST tank corroded. replaced the VST tank. Same problem. Took all fuel (clean) out of the tank. Replaced pick up and fuel tank indicator. Replaced all filters on the engine several times, replaced racor several times. Changed the ball, All has had no effect on the problem. last week decided to change the HP fuel pump. Pump looked good, clean could not get any deposits out of it. Finally ran the boat today and the problem is the same. Seems to be totally starving for fuel (sometimes). Initially would not get above 1500 rpm then 2200, then 3100 then suddenly it accelerated normally and got 5700 RPM and ran smooth. As soon as I pulled it back it would not get above 2000 again for the rest of the trial. + +The real symptoms, run the motor in a bag. looks and runs smooth. Put it under load and it seems at some point (low RPM) to start running a little rough. Advance the throttle and everything feels normal until a certain RPM and then RPM decreases rapidly and engine starves for fuel. Bogs sometimes backfires or just sputters. Pull throttle back and at some point RPM increases to a point. + +I guess in re-thinking the problem, most probably the severely clogged VST screen was probably never the problem or it was just part of a problem. The only thing left is the fuel regulator and I'm not sure if this would have these symptoms or not. I think having the pressure drop on the rail eliminates injectors, injector pumps and the like. I think. Of course today it ran at almost full power without skipping a beat for several minutes. + +If I can eventually get past this problem I'll be faced with doing a major on the corroded exhaust that I have. Yamaha's are wonderful....cant wait. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + While looking for this problem I did find some severe corrosion in the exhaust. Looks pretty bad. Here is a video in case anyone has some input on this problem or if they could be related. +Thanks + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vXC7jkJ7W0","I did everything. Cleaned everything but the final solution was when I took care of each hose connections and tight them properly. Fuel pressure is the key. Check every single hose connection and tight + + +kappajohn said: + + + + While I can see it has been several years since this was an active post, was there ever a solution? I have the same issues happening to a 2004 Yamaha F225. Been going on for a year and a half. Think it's fixed and two months later it's back. I can't stand an intermittent problem that can't be fixed. How do you trust your rig? I'm happy to spend the money, if I know what to do. I'd love to hear how it all went for you. + +Click to expand...","I did everything. Cleaned everything but the final solution was when I took care of each hose connections and tight them properly. Fuel pressure is the key. Check every single hose connection and tight + + +kappajohn said: + + + + While I can see it has been several years since this was an active post, was there ever a solution? I have the same issues happening to a 2004 Yamaha F225. Been going on for a year and a half. Think it's fixed and two months later it's back. I can't stand an intermittent problem that can't be fixed. How do you trust your rig? I'm happy to spend the money, if I know what to do. I'd love to hear how it all went for you. + +Click to expand...","Check all battery connections. Once power is lost to the battery the engine will shut down. While the engine is running you can wiggle all the cables and try and recreate the problem. + +Also wiggle the ignition Key switch while the engine is running. + +Had a customer with this issue on his Yamaha last summer and it was a lose battery cable." +"I have a 09 Yamaha f40jeha! 4 stroke ,fuel injected! Runs fine till warms up !Idles fine but wont rev up !Have replaced impeller, thermostat, plugs , water separator filter , fuel lines from tank to motor ,fresh ethanol free fuel ,checked filter by power head? Any help would be appreciated","What would an impeller, thermostat, spark plugs and fuel lines have to do with the symptoms that you have reported? + +Sounds like you have not done your trouble shooting yet. Stop throwing parts at an unknown problem. + +Put a fuel pressure gauge on the motor. Monitor the high pressure pump pressure. I am guessing that failure to maintain adequate fuel pressure is the problem.","What would an impeller, thermostat, spark plugs and fuel lines have to do with the symptoms that you have reported? + +Sounds like you have not done your trouble shooting yet. Stop throwing parts at an unknown problem. + +Put a fuel pressure gauge on the motor. Monitor the high pressure pump pressure. I am guessing that failure to maintain adequate fuel pressure is the problem.","Thank you for the response, most helpful. + +The next question is, does anyone know where to find a complete wiring diagram? My on line search has led to a few dead ends. It needs to be downloadable as packages take about 3 weeks to get to me. + +The motor is a S200 TXRB. + +Headed out to check some voltages now. + +Cheers." +"I have a 09 Yamaha f40jeha! 4 stroke ,fuel injected! Runs fine till warms up !Idles fine but wont rev up !Have replaced impeller, thermostat, plugs , water separator filter , fuel lines from tank to motor ,fresh ethanol free fuel ,checked filter by power head? Any help would be appreciated",Just ask for help dont need any smartass remarks ! And I found the problem!,Just ask for help dont need any smartass remarks ! And I found the problem!,"Check with a local (former?) dealer. Maybe call the new owners of the company. + +Worst case, just make it yourself...it isn't that hard. After done, verify it by inspecting the boat. i find it beneficial to note any 'unique' items and their locations on the schematic....especially the things not readily visible." +"I have a 09 Yamaha f40jeha! 4 stroke ,fuel injected! Runs fine till warms up !Idles fine but wont rev up !Have replaced impeller, thermostat, plugs , water separator filter , fuel lines from tank to motor ,fresh ethanol free fuel ,checked filter by power head? Any help would be appreciated","I feel your pain; I am not a mechanic and to just get the darn thing running, I am tempted to start replacing parts also; I have just started reviewing solutions on this forum (Mercs and Yamaha) and am impressed by the various fixes; in any case, can you divulge your debugging steps and solution?","I feel your pain; I am not a mechanic and to just get the darn thing running, I am tempted to start replacing parts also; I have just started reviewing solutions on this forum (Mercs and Yamaha) and am impressed by the various fixes; in any case, can you divulge your debugging steps and solution?","a lot of factors in play here...is the gas ethanol?..are you positive it was treated?..do you have a water filter installed?..was the 100 gal tank full of old gas or did it have a partial tank?... + +100 gallons is a lot of gas I admit but it needs to go...and then make sure you have a water filter with spare filters...I was in a similar situation about 6 years ago and finally made a deal with a professional yard man to use the gas free...there are pumps available or you can siphon...use a clear hose on whatever you use so you can see whats in the gas as you pump it or siphon it out... + +I have read where there are marina's that cycle gas through a machine and clean it up...those are hard to find..." +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,"Yamaha has offered F25's since 1998. 20 years now. Where did the time go? + +Any chance of you giving us the complete model identity or are those last few letters too difficult to type?","Yamaha has offered F25's since 1998. 20 years now. Where did the time go? + +Any chance of you giving us the complete model identity or are those last few letters too difficult to type?","lburess said: + + + + I do run Ring Free. + +Click to expand... + + +You take them apart and clean them." +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,"boscoe said: + + + + Yamaha has offered F25's since 1998. 20 years now. Where did the time go? + +Any chance of you giving us the complete model identity or are those last few letters too difficult to type? + +Click to expand... + + +Here is a photo of the serial #","boscoe said: + + + + Yamaha has offered F25's since 1998. 20 years now. Where did the time go? + +Any chance of you giving us the complete model identity or are those last few letters too difficult to type? + +Click to expand... + + +Here is a photo of the serial #",Correction: The motor is an SX250TXRY. oops +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,F25SEHA is the model #,F25SEHA is the model #,"Setting the ignition timing is pretty straightforward. No need to calculate position of piston since the markers on the wheel indicate TDC/BTDC. + +Here is a link for the service manual for your engine. Page 3-2. Follow the instructions. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...hop-manuals/382-2003-yamaha-20v-25v-25v2/file" +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,"boscoe said: + + + + Yamaha has offered F25's since 1998. 20 years now. Where did the time go? + +Any chance of you giving us the complete model identity or are those last few letters too difficult to type? + +Click to expand... + + +Model F25SEHA +68PK S 1035062","boscoe said: + + + + Yamaha has offered F25's since 1998. 20 years now. Where did the time go? + +Any chance of you giving us the complete model identity or are those last few letters too difficult to type? + +Click to expand... + + +Model F25SEHA +68PK S 1035062",the thickness that is already there is like a 16th or a 8th of an inch or something ......but i didnt know if there is a required gap thickness of the transom for proper alignment and fit for the outdrive to the rest of the motor .....i know that there is a driveshaft that makes it all work and I dont want it pinched to tight in there ..........my idea was to weld it all up and use the other boat to make a template for the hole i need to cut ........then i was thinking that i would measure the thickness of the donor boats transom ...........and add that to the inside of the metal transom with marine plywood and just use some 5200 and some screws to hold it all up there ......what do ya think ........another question ....is there any water that flows through the motor to outdrive that would affect the seal between all of that or does it all flow through hoses between the transom +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,"*have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit? + +Model F25SEHA +68PK S 1035062","*have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit? + +Model F25SEHA +68PK S 1035062","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Has the wiring recently been altered in any way? Maybe house wiring backfeeding into the ignition on circuits. You will want to get a experienced marine mechanic to diagnose the issue. If you dont know what your doing dont do it. + +Click to expand... + + + +Just recently put a new motor in. It wasn't happening until that work took place. The mechanic that did the work is trying to figure it out. Could it be a tach or speedo issue?" +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,"I am presuming that you are outside of the USA. Or that the motor was not distributed by a Yamaha dealer within the USA. + +There is a remote control mechanical conversion kit. Part number 6BL-48501-00-00. To which you buy and add the control cables and the remote control box. + +A steering hook is needed. Part number 65W-48511-01-00. And a steering link. Part number 6BG-61350-00-00. To which you will add the steering system of your choice. + +Now if you are looking for remote start and stop that is another matter altogether.","I am presuming that you are outside of the USA. Or that the motor was not distributed by a Yamaha dealer within the USA. + +There is a remote control mechanical conversion kit. Part number 6BL-48501-00-00. To which you buy and add the control cables and the remote control box. + +A steering hook is needed. Part number 65W-48511-01-00. And a steering link. Part number 6BG-61350-00-00. To which you will add the steering system of your choice. + +Now if you are looking for remote start and stop that is another matter altogether.","Correct. You need to look at the axle travel and make sure it cannot contact the hull when the springs are fully compressed. + +Where you launch your boat, is it just not deep enough at all or is just not deep as far back as you can get your tow vehicle? If there is deeper water further down the ramp you could have a fabrication shop add an extension to the trailer tongue. That would keep your tow vehicle out of the water but get the trailer deep enough to float the boat." +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,I bought it in North Carolina and I would like to add the remote start and stop. I am interested in a stick steering control.,I bought it in North Carolina and I would like to add the remote start and stop. I am interested in a stick steering control.,Check all oil lines / fittings.-----Do a compression test and post the numbers.----Check for spark on all leads. +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,"For the electrics you will have to inspect and compare the Yamaha parts catalog for your model to the remote start equivalent model. An F25SEA. Determine the differences. Remove the stuff used on your model that is not used on the F25SEA model and then install the stuff that is used on the F25SEA model that is not used on your model. + +Wire harness, neutral safety switch, starting switch, etc.. + +Get the ole wallet ready. Gonna cost you some bucks.","For the electrics you will have to inspect and compare the Yamaha parts catalog for your model to the remote start equivalent model. An F25SEA. Determine the differences. Remove the stuff used on your model that is not used on the F25SEA model and then install the stuff that is used on the F25SEA model that is not used on your model. + +Wire harness, neutral safety switch, starting switch, etc.. + +Get the ole wallet ready. Gonna cost you some bucks.",Ok thinks I will do that will let u know thanks a lot +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,"Thank you for your expert help. I am looking into the feasibility and cost. +Thank again.","Thank you for your expert help. I am looking into the feasibility and cost. +Thank again.","I made a fuel ""polisher"" system that works very well. I used a 4 ft. section of bendable copper tubing 3/8"" to vacume the bottom of the fuel tank out. You can bend the tubing to get around fuel tank baffles if you have them. I unscrewed the sending units to gain access to the inside of the fuel tanks. I hose clamped 3/8"" fuel hose (about 12 ft.) to the copper tubing. The fuel hose goes to a high capacity 12Volt fuel pump(from a racing car) and from there the fuel pumps through a raycor fuel/water seperator (turbo 800 with 2 micron filter). The return hose goes from the fuel filter to the deck fill to returm the cleaned fuel to the tank. Let it run for an hour as you vacume around the bottom of the tank. + +I used to long fuel hose to get the pump and filter away from the boat/fuel tank. You must be extremely careful not to create any sparks!!! A fuel polishing service wanted $800 so I build my own rig for about $200." +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,Do you have any idea what that might cost. I'm only wanting a ballpark estimate. I can do what you suggested at as later date.,Do you have any idea what that might cost. I'm only wanting a ballpark estimate. I can do what you suggested at as later date.,"It has carbs, 3 of them. By cleaning, do you mean a seafoam or carb cleaner or actually take them apart and clean them?" +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,"Yamaha 703 control box, two control cables, Yamaha misc parts probably around a grand. + +Steering system not included.","Yamaha 703 control box, two control cables, Yamaha misc parts probably around a grand. + +Steering system not included.","Dealer appears to be confused. + +This from your Owner's Manual:" +I have an F25 short shaft tiller with electric start. I am interested in converting it to a stick steering remote. Has anybody done this and do they offer a kit?,Thank you,Thank you,"I don't think they do. I spoke to a Yamaha dealer about this once and he said that when you do see kits they are just the individual parts put together by downstream resellers and usually more expensive than the sum of the parts. This may not hold true for all parts of the world, but seems to be the case here in Australia." +"I have a 2003 yamaha t8 four stroke that starts and idles fine but when you throttle up it bogs down. I thought dirty carb so I cleaned it twice and the same thing happened. Fuel pump is fine with 4 lbs of pressure. I put a new coil on it and still the same. A friend of mine had one he wasn't using so I exchanged all of the parts I could think of...(working carb, power pack, coil under the flywheel, flywheel) you name it and it runs the same. Compression test comes out good at 160 lbs with a 5 lb difference between cyl. Ran a leak down test and everything checks out..no leaks. +All I can think of now is camshaft or valve lash... just doesn't make any sense. + + +Have any idea's? + + +Matt","I am having the same issue with my 9.9. starts on forst pull and idles great but when you gas it, it bogs down. It feels like maybe the timing is not advancing?? someone said that is the oil pressure is low it may retard the timing during high idle, but i am getting a green oil pressure light. I also heard that if the fuel pump diaphragm leaks fuel into the oil it would cause similar issues. I am going to replace the diaphragm this week and put in a new oil pressure switch. let me know if you figure out your problem. good luck.","I am having the same issue with my 9.9. starts on forst pull and idles great but when you gas it, it bogs down. It feels like maybe the timing is not advancing?? someone said that is the oil pressure is low it may retard the timing during high idle, but i am getting a green oil pressure light. I also heard that if the fuel pump diaphragm leaks fuel into the oil it would cause similar issues. I am going to replace the diaphragm this week and put in a new oil pressure switch. let me know if you figure out your problem. good luck.","Take a look at the parts blow out using the link below. Identify the jet you're referring to, because I don't know what you're referring to as the ""air jet intake"". Needless to say, fuel should not be squirting externally out of a jet. If this isn't the culprit for the current issue, it's definitely one needing attention. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1997/S200TXRV/CARBURETOR/parts.html" +"I have a 2003 yamaha t8 four stroke that starts and idles fine but when you throttle up it bogs down. I thought dirty carb so I cleaned it twice and the same thing happened. Fuel pump is fine with 4 lbs of pressure. I put a new coil on it and still the same. A friend of mine had one he wasn't using so I exchanged all of the parts I could think of...(working carb, power pack, coil under the flywheel, flywheel) you name it and it runs the same. Compression test comes out good at 160 lbs with a 5 lb difference between cyl. Ran a leak down test and everything checks out..no leaks. +All I can think of now is camshaft or valve lash... just doesn't make any sense. + + +Have any idea's? + + +Matt","captainkeene said: + + + + I am having the same issue with my 9.9. starts on forst pull and idles great but when you gas it, it bogs down. It feels like maybe the timing is not advancing?? someone said that is the oil pressure is low it may retard the timing during high idle, but i am getting a green oil pressure light. I also heard that if the fuel pump diaphragm leaks fuel into the oil it would cause similar issues. I am going to replace the diaphragm this week and put in a new oil pressure switch. let me know if you figure out your problem. good luck. + +Click to expand... + + +I have not heard that from anyone. What year is your 9,9? My oil light is fine but I unplugged it anyways just to be sure. Also I've been told they don't have an advance. I figure if they do it all created in the power pack. I took the fuel pump apart...there is not much to them. It squirts across my driveway and tested at 4 pounds, I don't think that's the cause. Pretty bafold on this one. + +Does anyone know what each coil does under the flywheel? There are what I believe 2 charge coils (what do they do) and one lightning coil (what does it do) I ran ohm test but had trouble getting any voltage test that was suggested in other blogs. + +Any help would be greatly appreciated.","captainkeene said: + + + + I am having the same issue with my 9.9. starts on forst pull and idles great but when you gas it, it bogs down. It feels like maybe the timing is not advancing?? someone said that is the oil pressure is low it may retard the timing during high idle, but i am getting a green oil pressure light. I also heard that if the fuel pump diaphragm leaks fuel into the oil it would cause similar issues. I am going to replace the diaphragm this week and put in a new oil pressure switch. let me know if you figure out your problem. good luck. + +Click to expand... + + +I have not heard that from anyone. What year is your 9,9? My oil light is fine but I unplugged it anyways just to be sure. Also I've been told they don't have an advance. I figure if they do it all created in the power pack. I took the fuel pump apart...there is not much to them. It squirts across my driveway and tested at 4 pounds, I don't think that's the cause. Pretty bafold on this one. + +Does anyone know what each coil does under the flywheel? There are what I believe 2 charge coils (what do they do) and one lightning coil (what does it do) I ran ohm test but had trouble getting any voltage test that was suggested in other blogs. + +Any help would be greatly appreciated.",Thanks Bondo....I don’t know how to call it but I ‘m trying to find and replace that hexagon shaped pickup Where the valves connect to. I can’t find one that holds 2 valves and is 2” wide. I have only seen single pickups. +"I have a 2003 yamaha t8 four stroke that starts and idles fine but when you throttle up it bogs down. I thought dirty carb so I cleaned it twice and the same thing happened. Fuel pump is fine with 4 lbs of pressure. I put a new coil on it and still the same. A friend of mine had one he wasn't using so I exchanged all of the parts I could think of...(working carb, power pack, coil under the flywheel, flywheel) you name it and it runs the same. Compression test comes out good at 160 lbs with a 5 lb difference between cyl. Ran a leak down test and everything checks out..no leaks. +All I can think of now is camshaft or valve lash... just doesn't make any sense. + + +Have any idea's? + + +Matt",I pulled the valve cover today and found the valve clearance was off. I adjusted this and got the power back. Maybe check yours. goos luck,I pulled the valve cover today and found the valve clearance was off. I adjusted this and got the power back. Maybe check yours. goos luck,"Yeah, I agree that there are only two bolts holding it on but the problem is access. They are up against the bottom cowling." +"I have a 2003 yamaha t8 four stroke that starts and idles fine but when you throttle up it bogs down. I thought dirty carb so I cleaned it twice and the same thing happened. Fuel pump is fine with 4 lbs of pressure. I put a new coil on it and still the same. A friend of mine had one he wasn't using so I exchanged all of the parts I could think of...(working carb, power pack, coil under the flywheel, flywheel) you name it and it runs the same. Compression test comes out good at 160 lbs with a 5 lb difference between cyl. Ran a leak down test and everything checks out..no leaks. +All I can think of now is camshaft or valve lash... just doesn't make any sense. + + +Have any idea's? + + +Matt","captainkeene said: + + + + I pulled the valve cover today and found the valve clearance was off. I adjusted this and got the power back. Maybe check yours. goos luck + +Click to expand... + +Pulled the valve cover off tonight and everything's appears good. Can't find my feeler gauges so I will go buy new ones tomorrow. They are not to tight and all seem to be close to spec by feel. I guess we will see tomorrow...I did note they are a tight tolerance. + +I find it hard to believe that this is the problem.","captainkeene said: + + + + I pulled the valve cover today and found the valve clearance was off. I adjusted this and got the power back. Maybe check yours. goos luck + +Click to expand... + +Pulled the valve cover off tonight and everything's appears good. Can't find my feeler gauges so I will go buy new ones tomorrow. They are not to tight and all seem to be close to spec by feel. I guess we will see tomorrow...I did note they are a tight tolerance. + +I find it hard to believe that this is the problem.",Are these carburetor or fuel injected engines? +"I have a 2003 yamaha t8 four stroke that starts and idles fine but when you throttle up it bogs down. I thought dirty carb so I cleaned it twice and the same thing happened. Fuel pump is fine with 4 lbs of pressure. I put a new coil on it and still the same. A friend of mine had one he wasn't using so I exchanged all of the parts I could think of...(working carb, power pack, coil under the flywheel, flywheel) you name it and it runs the same. Compression test comes out good at 160 lbs with a 5 lb difference between cyl. Ran a leak down test and everything checks out..no leaks. +All I can think of now is camshaft or valve lash... just doesn't make any sense. + + +Have any idea's? + + +Matt","saltchuckmatt said: + + + + Pulled the valve cover off tonight and everything's appears good. Can't find my feeler gauges so I will go buy new ones tomorrow. They are not to tight and all seem to be close to spec by feel. I guess we will see tomorrow...I did note they are a tight tolerance. + +I find it hard to believe that this is the problem. + +Click to expand... + +Ok pretty much looked at everything and or changed over parts that I know works. I guess I stumped everyone here. Valves adjustments were almost perfect but now they are even better. The only thing I can think of is some kind of internal issue or a crack in the intake manifold that I cant see or hear. Anyone know how to hook up a intake manifold gauge on a T8? + +I think I'll just part it out.","saltchuckmatt said: + + + + Pulled the valve cover off tonight and everything's appears good. Can't find my feeler gauges so I will go buy new ones tomorrow. They are not to tight and all seem to be close to spec by feel. I guess we will see tomorrow...I did note they are a tight tolerance. + +I find it hard to believe that this is the problem. + +Click to expand... + +Ok pretty much looked at everything and or changed over parts that I know works. I guess I stumped everyone here. Valves adjustments were almost perfect but now they are even better. The only thing I can think of is some kind of internal issue or a crack in the intake manifold that I cant see or hear. Anyone know how to hook up a intake manifold gauge on a T8? + +I think I'll just part it out.",I checked my fuses and found one that was blown. Yamaha had a spare fuse hanging near the fuse holder. This solved the problem. Great information and suggestions on this thread. +"Hey all new to this page, but I have a question I’m trying to get to the solution. +I have a 2005 Yamaha F115TLRD, and I’m having some issues I need to figure out. It started on the lake, filled boat up ran all day with no problems, headed back towards boat ramp and only had around 1500 rpms. Got her on trailer and took her home. I ended up finding the VST filter was clogged. I changed the filter out, also while I was that deep I cleaned the fuel rail and replaced the high pressure fuel pump, all gaskets and orings, installed new injectors, a new low pressure fuel pump, new fuel lines, new fuel filters, and new spark plugs. Also pumped gas tank out and filled with new fresh fuel. Took her back to the lake after the repairs, pumped primer bulb until firm tried to start. It spun over nice and strong fires off once and goes straight back to cranking, yes the kill switch is good and had a correct connection. Took it back to the house, I have good spark, fuel pressure between 40 to 45 psi, and good compression on all cylinders. Took to Yamaha dealer and they cannot figure out what is wrong. Any and all help would be excellent. Thank you in advance!?","When a system fails, the classic question is 'what changed'? Not trying to be a WA; maybe double check everything you changed to insure all repairs are OK. Shot in the dark - you know spark is good; are cylinders getting gas?","When a system fails, the classic question is 'what changed'? Not trying to be a WA; maybe double check everything you changed to insure all repairs are OK. Shot in the dark - you know spark is good; are cylinders getting gas?","ECU difference. + +Same as with the VF200/VF/225 models and the F225/F250/F300XCA models. Others as well. + +You must not be in the USA. Yamaha USA does not offer an F130 HP model." +"Hey all new to this page, but I have a question I’m trying to get to the solution. +I have a 2005 Yamaha F115TLRD, and I’m having some issues I need to figure out. It started on the lake, filled boat up ran all day with no problems, headed back towards boat ramp and only had around 1500 rpms. Got her on trailer and took her home. I ended up finding the VST filter was clogged. I changed the filter out, also while I was that deep I cleaned the fuel rail and replaced the high pressure fuel pump, all gaskets and orings, installed new injectors, a new low pressure fuel pump, new fuel lines, new fuel filters, and new spark plugs. Also pumped gas tank out and filled with new fresh fuel. Took her back to the lake after the repairs, pumped primer bulb until firm tried to start. It spun over nice and strong fires off once and goes straight back to cranking, yes the kill switch is good and had a correct connection. Took it back to the house, I have good spark, fuel pressure between 40 to 45 psi, and good compression on all cylinders. Took to Yamaha dealer and they cannot figure out what is wrong. Any and all help would be excellent. Thank you in advance!?",Everything changed is correct Yamaha shop verified repairs are completed correctly. All cylinders are getting fuel in correct order and correct psi.,Everything changed is correct Yamaha shop verified repairs are completed correctly. All cylinders are getting fuel in correct order and correct psi.,I did not see any throttle shift control. Measure from where they mount next tothe seat to the transom and from the side to the center of the motor round it to the next highest foot and add a foot. Thats how long the shift and throttle cables need to be. The steering just needs the link from the cable end to the motor. Look on ebay for a good set of controls with harness should be plug and play. +"I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance","retiredbob said: + + + + I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance + +Click to expand... + + +Is this a 4 stroke or is that a typo? Ring free is for 2 stroke engines, Yamalube is also for 2 stroke engines.","retiredbob said: + + + + I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance + +Click to expand... + + +Is this a 4 stroke or is that a typo? Ring free is for 2 stroke engines, Yamalube is also for 2 stroke engines.",They are gasoline engines. Called some Sea Ray dealers and no one has ever heard of that happening. +"I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance","This is what I saw: +""Yamaha recommends Yamalube® 4-M FC-W™ for all four-stroke models. Yamalube® 4-M is formulated to meet or exceed all Yamaha factory requirements plus the new FC-W™ rating from the NMMA® (National Marine Manufacturers Association, www.nmma.org). This standard specifies an oil formula designed for the unique needs of marine four-stroke engines"" + +and + +"" +Ring Free is a result of joint development between Yamaha and Oronite corp ( subsiderary of Chevron). There is a misconception that Techron and Ring Free are the same. The fact is that Ring free was made to be used in 2 cycle water cooled engines of which have different combustion temperatures than normal auto use. Techron is made for 4 cycle auto use. If you look at the grand scheme of things Ring Free is not expensive. 1 12oz bottle will treat 120 gallons of fuel and is priced at $8.99. Compare that to your auto fuel additves, they run about $7 to $9 and treat a max of about 20 gallons or less. + Ring Free is suggested in most Yamaha outboard users manuals. The main purpose is to keep carbon down to a minimum. Which is more prevalent these days due to fuel additives. + It benefits 2 stroke outboards the most since these engines tend to carbon cake at the ports and behind the rings. One other good reason is some Yamaha 2 stroke outboards use an oxygen sensor. Ring Free helps keep the sensor from fouling up. + Both Evinrude and Merc have their own branded fuel additives that pretty much do the same thing! "" + + + +But, it seems that the 4 stroke users manual has quite a writeup suggesting using it in 4 strokes as well.","This is what I saw: +""Yamaha recommends Yamalube® 4-M FC-W™ for all four-stroke models. Yamalube® 4-M is formulated to meet or exceed all Yamaha factory requirements plus the new FC-W™ rating from the NMMA® (National Marine Manufacturers Association, www.nmma.org). This standard specifies an oil formula designed for the unique needs of marine four-stroke engines"" + +and + +"" +Ring Free is a result of joint development between Yamaha and Oronite corp ( subsiderary of Chevron). There is a misconception that Techron and Ring Free are the same. The fact is that Ring free was made to be used in 2 cycle water cooled engines of which have different combustion temperatures than normal auto use. Techron is made for 4 cycle auto use. If you look at the grand scheme of things Ring Free is not expensive. 1 12oz bottle will treat 120 gallons of fuel and is priced at $8.99. Compare that to your auto fuel additves, they run about $7 to $9 and treat a max of about 20 gallons or less. + Ring Free is suggested in most Yamaha outboard users manuals. The main purpose is to keep carbon down to a minimum. Which is more prevalent these days due to fuel additives. + It benefits 2 stroke outboards the most since these engines tend to carbon cake at the ports and behind the rings. One other good reason is some Yamaha 2 stroke outboards use an oxygen sensor. Ring Free helps keep the sensor from fouling up. + Both Evinrude and Merc have their own branded fuel additives that pretty much do the same thing! "" + + + +But, it seems that the 4 stroke users manual has quite a writeup suggesting using it in 4 strokes as well.","Glen, check your power supply, battery cables, if everything checks, jump the solenoid when the problem arise, some time solenoid develops an open coil symptom when hot, if it cranks change the solenoid." +"I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance","In short, I would only use Yamaha oils and additives in Yamaha engines. I don't see the point in adding ring free to a 4 stroke engine.","In short, I would only use Yamaha oils and additives in Yamaha engines. I don't see the point in adding ring free to a 4 stroke engine.",Get another hull. +"I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance","So, from the few comments, and from further google searches including the Yamaha Web site, it seems that any quality 4-stroke/water cooled OB oil will be acceptable:"" Yamaha recommends Yamalube, of course, but if you simply cannot find it, choose oil that specifically displays the FC-W® rating logo."" + +Sta-Bil fuel additive should be as good as Yamaha's conditioner/stabilizer (and less expensive and easier to find in the store). + +And Yamaha's Ring Free Fuel Additive is okay for 4-stroke engines but is primarily used for 2-stroke engines which have more carbon build-up. So, use it if I like, use it occasionally, or don't really need to use it - maybe option 2 is best 'use it occasionally'. + +The suggestion to install a fuel/water separator is a good idea if the engine does not already have one (especially with E10 fuel) <>. Yamaha says all newer engines are made to run on E10 but *NOT* anything higher!!","So, from the few comments, and from further google searches including the Yamaha Web site, it seems that any quality 4-stroke/water cooled OB oil will be acceptable:"" Yamaha recommends Yamalube, of course, but if you simply cannot find it, choose oil that specifically displays the FC-W® rating logo."" + +Sta-Bil fuel additive should be as good as Yamaha's conditioner/stabilizer (and less expensive and easier to find in the store). + +And Yamaha's Ring Free Fuel Additive is okay for 4-stroke engines but is primarily used for 2-stroke engines which have more carbon build-up. So, use it if I like, use it occasionally, or don't really need to use it - maybe option 2 is best 'use it occasionally'. + +The suggestion to install a fuel/water separator is a good idea if the engine does not already have one (especially with E10 fuel) <>. Yamaha says all newer engines are made to run on E10 but *NOT* anything higher!!",I was using muffs with a water hose for testing. +"I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance","Ring Free does a good job of keeping valves clean for sure. Four stroke rings, particularly oil control rings can get stuck. Ring free works. Cheap insurance. + +On the subject of ethanol isn't it bizarre that we have to have that rammed down our throats when it is hard to find any logical thinking person who doesn't view it as anything but a net economic loss on so many fronts.","Ring Free does a good job of keeping valves clean for sure. Four stroke rings, particularly oil control rings can get stuck. Ring free works. Cheap insurance. + +On the subject of ethanol isn't it bizarre that we have to have that rammed down our throats when it is hard to find any logical thinking person who doesn't view it as anything but a net economic loss on so many fronts.",Here is a pic of what I'm dealing with. As you can see it looks like I may be able to slide it out with some persuasion +"I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance","ring free is recomended for 4stroke obs. read page 29 of the 06 f150 owners manual. +Not being a smart ass, but, i have seen the results of using ring free on a f225. it brought the compression up to acceptable levels.","ring free is recomended for 4stroke obs. read page 29 of the 06 f150 owners manual. +Not being a smart ass, but, i have seen the results of using ring free on a f225. it brought the compression up to acceptable levels.","This thread is perfect for what I am trying to do on my boat. I have a 1987 37ft Silverton with the wiring torn out right now. My boat was wires very similar to what you mentioned with only one difference I can tell that I have a Bank #1 DC panel running off the Port Engine and a Bank #2 panel running off of the Starboard engine. + +I was planning to do a three battery setup with two ACRs but I like your diagram a bit better as its fewer parts (one less ACR) and I already have two perko MBSS. + +My question is on the parallel solenoid that is in my boat currently. Can / Should I just remove that and cap the wires coming from the switch at the helm if I opt to use your two battery diagram attached above? It makes sense that with a low voltage situation the switch may not work anyway. + +Is it safe to assume that I should move the main Bank #1 Wire feed over to the new HLBB as they currently come from each individual battery?" +"I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance","My only suggestion is don't let ethanol gas sit in it for too long even if it is treated. Also I was told to make sure your set-up will allow the motor to run at it's recommended rpm at wide open throttle. Those 4 stroke need to be run wide open some of the time to get the temp up and prevent any ""making oil"" issues. + +Your choice on the synthetic, I would decide on how often I was going to use the boat vs how often to service it. If your only going to put a few hours per year on it why spend the extra on synthetic if your do an annual oil change? Planning on running ALOT per yea might want to go with the synthetic","My only suggestion is don't let ethanol gas sit in it for too long even if it is treated. Also I was told to make sure your set-up will allow the motor to run at it's recommended rpm at wide open throttle. Those 4 stroke need to be run wide open some of the time to get the temp up and prevent any ""making oil"" issues. + +Your choice on the synthetic, I would decide on how often I was going to use the boat vs how often to service it. If your only going to put a few hours per year on it why spend the extra on synthetic if your do an annual oil change? Planning on running ALOT per yea might want to go with the synthetic",Glad to here it. Happy boating. +"I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance",Need help I have a yamaha 2013 90hp 4 stroke motor runs good for about hour and half then buzzer sounds check oil quart low fill up with oil and can run again any sugestion?,Need help I have a yamaha 2013 90hp 4 stroke motor runs good for about hour and half then buzzer sounds check oil quart low fill up with oil and can run again any sugestion?,"So an update on my problem, replaced the pump and I get the same problem :-( + +I have no idea on what I should do next." +"I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance",Few last questions: Does normal automotive red Stabil prevent the adverse deterioration of ethanol fuel at storage time in the off season? Should one use marine Stabil instead of the red automotive Stabil??,Few last questions: Does normal automotive red Stabil prevent the adverse deterioration of ethanol fuel at storage time in the off season? Should one use marine Stabil instead of the red automotive Stabil??,"I'll bet! + +The tanks get cleaned with solvents that are pumped in, swirled around, then pumped out (several times if needed). + +Jeff + +PS: It's perfectly legal to put a couple of the largest outboard tanks you can find on (meaning above) the deck (lashed down) and run off them. You'd need AI CG approved hose to connect them to metal lines (soon as possible) that run to ther motors." +"I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance","Just did a google on ethanol fuel stabilizers and focused on Stabil:: + +‘Stabil 360 Marine’ - 12 months (didn't spec ethanol fuels) +‘Stabil 360 Performance’ - 12 months - for ethanol fuels +‘Stabil Storage’ - 24 months.(didn't spec ethanol fuels) + +With the problem I am having with my Merc, I am going to switch to non-ethanol gas anyway. + +https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/top-five-sta-bil-product-myths-debunked/","Just did a google on ethanol fuel stabilizers and focused on Stabil:: + +‘Stabil 360 Marine’ - 12 months (didn't spec ethanol fuels) +‘Stabil 360 Performance’ - 12 months - for ethanol fuels +‘Stabil Storage’ - 24 months.(didn't spec ethanol fuels) + +With the problem I am having with my Merc, I am going to switch to non-ethanol gas anyway. + +https://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/top-five-sta-bil-product-myths-debunked/",Did you ever figure what way it goes? I have the same question???? +"Hi Folks, + +Recently acquired a 115 V4 Yamaha. Changed the impeller and the two thermostats but still have an overheat alarm. + +Took the thermostats off and checked them in a pan of semi boiling water and they open at 65 degrees as expected. + +Dropped the leg and repositioned to ensure the water hoses were aligned correctly and still overheats. + +The old impeller was in a thousand bits when I replaced it, could some of those bits have been sucked up and created a blockage? + +The overheat alarm goes off whilst cranking after slipping the boat even before the engine fires. + +Is it common the electrical heat sensor next to the thermostat may also fail and cause the alarm to go off? + +Thanks +Andy","Ok so on further inspection I found bits of the old impeller in the thermostat so I cleaned them out and tried again. + +Now I have an overheat alarm without even trying to start the engine. + +I disconnected the thermo switch port side and the alarm stays on, disconnected the thermo switch starboard side and the alarm remains on. + +I traced the cables back and there are no breaks or burns and look ok however where both thermo switch wires join together there is a connector that has some sort of diode or resistor that was broken + +Just got back from the Yamaha dealer and they had no idea what it is and it does not feature on the workshop spare part diagram. + +I have attached two pics. + +Any ideas what this is and if it can be removed and the wires connected directly? + +Thanks + +Andy","Ok so on further inspection I found bits of the old impeller in the thermostat so I cleaned them out and tried again. + +Now I have an overheat alarm without even trying to start the engine. + +I disconnected the thermo switch port side and the alarm stays on, disconnected the thermo switch starboard side and the alarm remains on. + +I traced the cables back and there are no breaks or burns and look ok however where both thermo switch wires join together there is a connector that has some sort of diode or resistor that was broken + +Just got back from the Yamaha dealer and they had no idea what it is and it does not feature on the workshop spare part diagram. + +I have attached two pics. + +Any ideas what this is and if it can be removed and the wires connected directly? + +Thanks + +Andy","Ok. I'll look back into it when I can and let you know how it goes. I keep coming back to the throttle cable also because the carbs and other things were just serviced not too long ago and it ran for great for a good 30 minutes before the throttle arm became disconnected. + +Quick question then, if the throttle cable isn't set right then when I'm at neutral its possible that its just not giving it enough gas to stay on? I guess I figured there'd always be a minimum amount of gas for neutral that it feeds it. + +Thank you for the help!! To be continued!" +"Hi Folks, + +Recently acquired a 115 V4 Yamaha. Changed the impeller and the two thermostats but still have an overheat alarm. + +Took the thermostats off and checked them in a pan of semi boiling water and they open at 65 degrees as expected. + +Dropped the leg and repositioned to ensure the water hoses were aligned correctly and still overheats. + +The old impeller was in a thousand bits when I replaced it, could some of those bits have been sucked up and created a blockage? + +The overheat alarm goes off whilst cranking after slipping the boat even before the engine fires. + +Is it common the electrical heat sensor next to the thermostat may also fail and cause the alarm to go off? + +Thanks +Andy",Disconnect wires from port & starboard heat sensors turn the key on you should have no alarm if you put them back and if the alarm goes off then you have a negative problem in your sensors .,Disconnect wires from port & starboard heat sensors turn the key on you should have no alarm if you put them back and if the alarm goes off then you have a negative problem in your sensors .,"Take a look at Armstrong brackets. http://www.armstrongnautical.com/brackets.htm + +They a very well made, cast aluminum, hold a lot of air, and will normally offset any additional weight from a four-stroke. + +I have one on my C-Hawk 25 DLX and there was no problem whatsoever with replacing the original Johnson 200 Sea Pro with the much heavier Honda 225. + +BTW - the engine's anti-cavitation plate should be even with the lowest part of the transom IF THE ENGINE IS MOUNTED DIRECTLY TO THE TRANSOM. However, you should raise the anti-cavitation plate one inch for ever 12 inches of offset from the transom." +"I have twin F150XA Motors. I replaced the water pumps last weekend and now have water blowing out (at 600 RPM idle) on the port motor. This is the upper exhaust above the water line(1""x3"" black plastic). I had a 38 mile run home after i noticed it and the motor ran flawless. No heating problems. Motor pee'ed strong as did the starboard. This is only happenning at Idle. Once in gear, it drasticly slows, then stops at anything above 800 RPM's. I replaced thermostats 4 months ago. I checked the Port motor popper valve (Small plastic stopper with spring) and the thermostat-all looks good. Motors have 570 hrs. This is the counter Rotation motor- not sure if this has anything to do with it.","Hey Josh, Have you received any info on your issue? +I have the same problem except i noticed water blowing at the ramp and just brought her home.I also noticed bubbles from lower exhaust. A mechanic that happened to be launching also at the time said if you have bubbles, water is getting into the dry exhaust and it is a gasket problem and the power head needs to be pulled to repair. +I have the same engines with 256hrs. I purchased the boat last year with 152hrs.I have not replaced water pumps or stats yet, only filters and oils.","Hey Josh, Have you received any info on your issue? +I have the same problem except i noticed water blowing at the ramp and just brought her home.I also noticed bubbles from lower exhaust. A mechanic that happened to be launching also at the time said if you have bubbles, water is getting into the dry exhaust and it is a gasket problem and the power head needs to be pulled to repair. +I have the same engines with 256hrs. I purchased the boat last year with 152hrs.I have not replaced water pumps or stats yet, only filters and oils.","Sounds, like motor is sucking air at powerhead gasket crank seal ( upper or lower)" +"I have a 2013 Yamaha 115, low low hours. Confession....it sat for a while for personal reasons. Anyhow, get her back running through a mechanic. It needed a VST (replaced new), cleaned the injectors, replaced filters, fuel pump works. Put in a new fuel tank and hoses etc. (tested good). It starts and idles but when running under load it dies in about 11 minutes (almost consistently at 11 minutes). Stays primed, and will usually start again but doesn't run for any length of time. Tried fuel from a stand alone tank to eliminate the new tank with no change. + +Attached clear tubes and gauges to fuel pump and VST. Started and watched the VST gauge drop pressure after about 10 minutes - the fuel simply quit coming out. Waited a few and she restarted, etc. Never loses prime and the VST doesn't empty; it just stops pumping. + +Using REC90 fuel. Mechanic and Yamaha support is at a loss. + +Thoughts? + +Thanks!!!",anyone?,anyone?,"Jay1234 said: + + + + The oil would end up in the cylinder, which would explain why your flywheel ""locked up"". Have your pulled spark plug to check? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the thought Jay. I have been wondering what would cause the flywheel to lock up. My thoughts were there is some mechanism in the motor that kicked the flywheel into lockup to prevent further damage. I am going to try and look at this after work today. Many thanks for the suggestion!" +"I have a 2013 Yamaha 115, low low hours. Confession....it sat for a while for personal reasons. Anyhow, get her back running through a mechanic. It needed a VST (replaced new), cleaned the injectors, replaced filters, fuel pump works. Put in a new fuel tank and hoses etc. (tested good). It starts and idles but when running under load it dies in about 11 minutes (almost consistently at 11 minutes). Stays primed, and will usually start again but doesn't run for any length of time. Tried fuel from a stand alone tank to eliminate the new tank with no change. + +Attached clear tubes and gauges to fuel pump and VST. Started and watched the VST gauge drop pressure after about 10 minutes - the fuel simply quit coming out. Waited a few and she restarted, etc. Never loses prime and the VST doesn't empty; it just stops pumping. + +Using REC90 fuel. Mechanic and Yamaha support is at a loss. + +Thoughts? + +Thanks!!!","Does it idle fine for longer than 11 minutes? + +You said you ""waited a few and she restarted"". Does that mean it doesn't restart right away after it first shuts down? + +Was the high pressure pump inside the VST replaced? + +Are you measuring fuel pressure at the rail or at the top of the VST? + +How do you know the high pressure pump stops pumping? + +Other things to check would be the pressure regulator and the VST needle valve. + +But I would hook up YDS and see what you can find.","Does it idle fine for longer than 11 minutes? + +You said you ""waited a few and she restarted"". Does that mean it doesn't restart right away after it first shuts down? + +Was the high pressure pump inside the VST replaced? + +Are you measuring fuel pressure at the rail or at the top of the VST? + +How do you know the high pressure pump stops pumping? + +Other things to check would be the pressure regulator and the VST needle valve. + +But I would hook up YDS and see what you can find.","Rick - Good point. All of my ground wires are set up on a seperate terminal set, but not all the positive ones. That is a good suggestion, and I will do a re-work. Thanks. + +Let me ask you another question. The fuses on several of the circuits on my boat use the automotive type spade fuses. I've often wondered if that is a good idea, and wouldn't it be better to replace those with the covered cylinder-type fuses. Your opinion?" +"I have a 2013 Yamaha 115, low low hours. Confession....it sat for a while for personal reasons. Anyhow, get her back running through a mechanic. It needed a VST (replaced new), cleaned the injectors, replaced filters, fuel pump works. Put in a new fuel tank and hoses etc. (tested good). It starts and idles but when running under load it dies in about 11 minutes (almost consistently at 11 minutes). Stays primed, and will usually start again but doesn't run for any length of time. Tried fuel from a stand alone tank to eliminate the new tank with no change. + +Attached clear tubes and gauges to fuel pump and VST. Started and watched the VST gauge drop pressure after about 10 minutes - the fuel simply quit coming out. Waited a few and she restarted, etc. Never loses prime and the VST doesn't empty; it just stops pumping. + +Using REC90 fuel. Mechanic and Yamaha support is at a loss. + +Thoughts? + +Thanks!!!","Does it idle fine for longer than 11 minutes? No. It does not. + +You said you ""waited a few and she restarted"". Does that mean it doesn't restart right away after it first shuts down? This is correct. + +Was the high pressure pump inside the VST replaced? The entire VST other than the tank was replaced + +Thanks for the comments. I'll update. + +Are you measuring fuel pressure at the rail or at the top of the VST? Measured at the output to the rail + +How do you know the high pressure pump stops pumping? Something stops - there is no fuel coming out + +Other things to check would be the pressure regulator and the VST needle valve. Good idea. Will try that. + +But I would hook up YDS and see what you can find. YDS was attached at failure time and there was no code or indications.","Does it idle fine for longer than 11 minutes? No. It does not. + +You said you ""waited a few and she restarted"". Does that mean it doesn't restart right away after it first shuts down? This is correct. + +Was the high pressure pump inside the VST replaced? The entire VST other than the tank was replaced + +Thanks for the comments. I'll update. + +Are you measuring fuel pressure at the rail or at the top of the VST? Measured at the output to the rail + +How do you know the high pressure pump stops pumping? Something stops - there is no fuel coming out + +Other things to check would be the pressure regulator and the VST needle valve. Good idea. Will try that. + +But I would hook up YDS and see what you can find. YDS was attached at failure time and there was no code or indications.","Nope, lost that Bet +I really thought I had a simple solution but, Noooooooooooo! +Mine Has a metal disk, with slots in it and some kinda optical eye ...where the vacuum plate would be." +"I have a 2013 Yamaha 115, low low hours. Confession....it sat for a while for personal reasons. Anyhow, get her back running through a mechanic. It needed a VST (replaced new), cleaned the injectors, replaced filters, fuel pump works. Put in a new fuel tank and hoses etc. (tested good). It starts and idles but when running under load it dies in about 11 minutes (almost consistently at 11 minutes). Stays primed, and will usually start again but doesn't run for any length of time. Tried fuel from a stand alone tank to eliminate the new tank with no change. + +Attached clear tubes and gauges to fuel pump and VST. Started and watched the VST gauge drop pressure after about 10 minutes - the fuel simply quit coming out. Waited a few and she restarted, etc. Never loses prime and the VST doesn't empty; it just stops pumping. + +Using REC90 fuel. Mechanic and Yamaha support is at a loss. + +Thoughts? + +Thanks!!!","Does it idle any longer with the gas cap to your fuel tank removed? Could just be lack of venting. + +Also, does it idle any longer if you manually pump the primer bulb every few seconds leading up to the 11th minute? + +I think if the behavior stays the same in those cases, I would start considering electrical/ECM issues. Not sure where I'd start looking, but I would at least compare a YDS report at key-on, just after start up when cold, and again right around that 11th minute. I wouldn't look only for error codes. You can graph the fuel pressure vs. other stats and maybe see a connection that you wouldn't otherwise notice with just one static report.","Does it idle any longer with the gas cap to your fuel tank removed? Could just be lack of venting. + +Also, does it idle any longer if you manually pump the primer bulb every few seconds leading up to the 11th minute? + +I think if the behavior stays the same in those cases, I would start considering electrical/ECM issues. Not sure where I'd start looking, but I would at least compare a YDS report at key-on, just after start up when cold, and again right around that 11th minute. I wouldn't look only for error codes. You can graph the fuel pressure vs. other stats and maybe see a connection that you wouldn't otherwise notice with just one static report.","Ayuh,..... Are ya dead set on usin' gelcoat,..... + +There are some paints out there today that beat gelcoat all to 'ell,..... + +Gelcoat is supposed to be shot into a polished mold, 'n glass after the gelcoat,...... + +Sprayin' gelcoat on the outside of an existin' hull, usually involves sprayin' on 3 times what ya need, 'n sandin' it down to get Smooth,.... + +2-pt. urethane paints, ya shoot, let cure, polish, 'n wax,.... then go Boatin',..... + +They both hold up 'bout the same,..... run over a rock, 'n they both scratch,...." +"I have a 2013 Yamaha 115, low low hours. Confession....it sat for a while for personal reasons. Anyhow, get her back running through a mechanic. It needed a VST (replaced new), cleaned the injectors, replaced filters, fuel pump works. Put in a new fuel tank and hoses etc. (tested good). It starts and idles but when running under load it dies in about 11 minutes (almost consistently at 11 minutes). Stays primed, and will usually start again but doesn't run for any length of time. Tried fuel from a stand alone tank to eliminate the new tank with no change. + +Attached clear tubes and gauges to fuel pump and VST. Started and watched the VST gauge drop pressure after about 10 minutes - the fuel simply quit coming out. Waited a few and she restarted, etc. Never loses prime and the VST doesn't empty; it just stops pumping. + +Using REC90 fuel. Mechanic and Yamaha support is at a loss. + +Thoughts? + +Thanks!!!","We checked the venting and pumped the ball prior to the 11 minute mark. Nothing changed. I mentioned, to the mechanic, it seemed like ECM issues but I can't imagine that. The motor has less than 25 hours on it. I really hate to admit that, but as I had mentioned, it sat for a while for personal reasons. I think you are on the mark with the ""no error codes and graphs."" Those are the next steps and I thank you for the response - I'll keep this updated. +Steve","We checked the venting and pumped the ball prior to the 11 minute mark. Nothing changed. I mentioned, to the mechanic, it seemed like ECM issues but I can't imagine that. The motor has less than 25 hours on it. I really hate to admit that, but as I had mentioned, it sat for a while for personal reasons. I think you are on the mark with the ""no error codes and graphs."" Those are the next steps and I thank you for the response - I'll keep this updated. +Steve",it sounds like you are just trying to PROMOTE the sale of this item. just what exactly are you trying to repair with it ? (that would help) +"I have a 2013 Yamaha 115, low low hours. Confession....it sat for a while for personal reasons. Anyhow, get her back running through a mechanic. It needed a VST (replaced new), cleaned the injectors, replaced filters, fuel pump works. Put in a new fuel tank and hoses etc. (tested good). It starts and idles but when running under load it dies in about 11 minutes (almost consistently at 11 minutes). Stays primed, and will usually start again but doesn't run for any length of time. Tried fuel from a stand alone tank to eliminate the new tank with no change. + +Attached clear tubes and gauges to fuel pump and VST. Started and watched the VST gauge drop pressure after about 10 minutes - the fuel simply quit coming out. Waited a few and she restarted, etc. Never loses prime and the VST doesn't empty; it just stops pumping. + +Using REC90 fuel. Mechanic and Yamaha support is at a loss. + +Thoughts? + +Thanks!!!","Had this on honda once, the fuel bowl vent on he vapour separator was blocked, as vacuum built up high pressure pump began starving, it a long shot but worth checking","Had this on honda once, the fuel bowl vent on he vapour separator was blocked, as vacuum built up high pressure pump began starving, it a long shot but worth checking","Do a complete survey it may be the time to get something more dependable? +Question what is the best bilge pump ever made? +Answer a scared fisherman with a five gallon bucket" +"I have a 2013 Yamaha 115, low low hours. Confession....it sat for a while for personal reasons. Anyhow, get her back running through a mechanic. It needed a VST (replaced new), cleaned the injectors, replaced filters, fuel pump works. Put in a new fuel tank and hoses etc. (tested good). It starts and idles but when running under load it dies in about 11 minutes (almost consistently at 11 minutes). Stays primed, and will usually start again but doesn't run for any length of time. Tried fuel from a stand alone tank to eliminate the new tank with no change. + +Attached clear tubes and gauges to fuel pump and VST. Started and watched the VST gauge drop pressure after about 10 minutes - the fuel simply quit coming out. Waited a few and she restarted, etc. Never loses prime and the VST doesn't empty; it just stops pumping. + +Using REC90 fuel. Mechanic and Yamaha support is at a loss. + +Thoughts? + +Thanks!!!","UPDATE - You're not going to believe this one. 2 well known marine mechanics arrive. The motor starts and is running (idle) for about 30 minutes. I tell them to rev it up and give it about 10 minutes. Sure enough, after a few minutes, it sputters. Mech 1 says to Mech 2, 'Pump the ball.' He does but nothing changes. Mech 1 says, 'Shut it down."" Mech 2 says, 'That ball is hard as a rock.' and they both look puzzled and proceed to tear everything apart. They find the problem. + +A hose, feeding the VST has a large piece of trash in it. Essentially, the motor is primed by pumping which gets enough fuel up into the lines and fills the VST which feeds the injectors. Because of the mostly blocked line, the fuel can't pump well enough to keep the VST filled thus, it runs out of fuel. Afterwards, I idle it for over an hour then crank up the rpm, and she ran solid for over 15 minutes. It seems it's fixed so in the water this weekend!!! YAY!!! + +​​​​​​​Thanks everyone for the comments!","UPDATE - You're not going to believe this one. 2 well known marine mechanics arrive. The motor starts and is running (idle) for about 30 minutes. I tell them to rev it up and give it about 10 minutes. Sure enough, after a few minutes, it sputters. Mech 1 says to Mech 2, 'Pump the ball.' He does but nothing changes. Mech 1 says, 'Shut it down."" Mech 2 says, 'That ball is hard as a rock.' and they both look puzzled and proceed to tear everything apart. They find the problem. + +A hose, feeding the VST has a large piece of trash in it. Essentially, the motor is primed by pumping which gets enough fuel up into the lines and fills the VST which feeds the injectors. Because of the mostly blocked line, the fuel can't pump well enough to keep the VST filled thus, it runs out of fuel. Afterwards, I idle it for over an hour then crank up the rpm, and she ran solid for over 15 minutes. It seems it's fixed so in the water this weekend!!! YAY!!! + +​​​​​​​Thanks everyone for the comments!",I see! You got it. +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.","Honda makes motors for Tohatsu today. + +As far as I know today, if you get a Yamaha branded F40 or F50 it will have been assembled in Japan by Yamaha. Assembled from many parts, some of which are made by other companies.","Honda makes motors for Tohatsu today. + +As far as I know today, if you get a Yamaha branded F40 or F50 it will have been assembled in Japan by Yamaha. Assembled from many parts, some of which are made by other companies.",Papyson i thought steve had 2 motors my bad 2x5.5 =11 +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.","Thanks boscoe; I noticed way back in the 1996 that Merc was making a 9.9 and branding some as a Yamahas; removed the covers and the blocks were identical. Just curious. +I think there is cross manufacturing done on some of the brands. I get the idea that engines produced with the Honda and Evinrude brands are truly made by those companies.","Thanks boscoe; I noticed way back in the 1996 that Merc was making a 9.9 and branding some as a Yamahas; removed the covers and the blocks were identical. Just curious. +I think there is cross manufacturing done on some of the brands. I get the idea that engines produced with the Honda and Evinrude brands are truly made by those companies.","Exactly what I am saying. Epoxy will ""Stick"" to just about anything but... Poly....Not so much. Sooo. Since you used Epoxy first and then the Poly the lamination will eventually fail. The Stresses that are put on the transom of a boat, especially when pulling a skier or ""Tubing"" is tremendous. With the type of repair you have done, I would NOT want to be a Passenger in your boat at any time. That is MY experienced Opinion." +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.",Evinrude at this time does not make small motors ( less than 15 HP )-----They are rebranded motors !,Evinrude at this time does not make small motors ( less than 15 HP )-----They are rebranded motors !,"Are you speaking of the thermostat cover? If my assumption is correct, the service manual indicates the 2-stage thermostat cover tightening torque is first, 2.9 ft-lb on all 4 screws, then final of 5.8 ft-lb. + +If Yamaha ""never"" intended the thermostat cover screws to be tightened to a specific torque, they would not have included this torque setting in their service manuals." +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.","RickM46 said: + + + + Thanks boscoe; I noticed way back in the 1996 that Merc was making a 9.9 and branding some as a Yamahas; removed the covers and the blocks were identical. Just curious. +I think there is cross manufacturing done on some of the brands. I get the idea that engines produced with the Honda and Evinrude brands are truly made by those companies. + +Click to expand... + + +My understanding is that it mostly worked the other way around. Yamaha was making motors for Mercury Marine. Until they had a falling out. Perhaps they have kissed and made up and are working together again. It would not surprise me.","RickM46 said: + + + + Thanks boscoe; I noticed way back in the 1996 that Merc was making a 9.9 and branding some as a Yamahas; removed the covers and the blocks were identical. Just curious. +I think there is cross manufacturing done on some of the brands. I get the idea that engines produced with the Honda and Evinrude brands are truly made by those companies. + +Click to expand... + + +My understanding is that it mostly worked the other way around. Yamaha was making motors for Mercury Marine. Until they had a falling out. Perhaps they have kissed and made up and are working together again. It would not surprise me.","Yeah definitely gonna take some patience. I needed to replace the switches whether they were the issue or not, I say that because the rocker switches, well the switch itself on two have broken off. Nowhere to be found. This boat say for two years outside under a canopy. Anyway, like I said before, the grounding wires that go to the bus bar, (power switch, navigation and bilge pump switch) are nowhere to be found. I've been looking before but I cannot for the life of me find where they are grounded at. Have to be somewhere for it to work IMO. It's not going to be grounded to the battery, unless that's where these other switches are grounded at, but it will go the bus bar. Might be cheaper to do just the battery though. And yes I don't use +wing nuts." +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.","Wow, looks like one ought to question who the real manufacturer is; who knew??? How is one to find out who the manufacturer is?","Wow, looks like one ought to question who the real manufacturer is; who knew??? How is one to find out who the manufacturer is?","thanks for the advice Stuart... I think you may be right, I did clean the carb before the fuel system and ran it before cleaning the fuel lines so it's quite possible more of that yellow jelly stuff got in there. +Will give the carb another clean tomorrow + + + +DangarStu said: + + + + Hey there + +Don't discount the possibility that you will need to clean the carb a couple of times. It is quiet possible that more of that residue has come through into the jets again. If they are plugged it will be running lean (which pulling the choke out will help with). + +Stuart + +Click to expand..." +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.",Does it really matter?,Does it really matter?,Both carbs seem to open at the same time as they are ganged together and there is no play or slop in the mechanism. +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.","Does it really matter? Well, I guess not since cross branding and common parts are alive in the outboard world; however, just curious since I am the one paying for the motor. My 9.8 Tohatsu is labelled as made in Japan. Wouldn't bother me a bit if I drove my new Ford home and discovered that it was really a Chevy.","Does it really matter? Well, I guess not since cross branding and common parts are alive in the outboard world; however, just curious since I am the one paying for the motor. My 9.8 Tohatsu is labelled as made in Japan. Wouldn't bother me a bit if I drove my new Ford home and discovered that it was really a Chevy.","Ayuh,... In my experience, if the metal isn't distorted from the heat, it'll be just Fine..." +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.","Answered my own question by searching the internet: +Yamaha - 2 plants in Japan, one in France, one in Brazil. +Merc - 40, 50, 60hp in China. +Merc - less than 30hp by Tohatsu in Japan. +Merc - over 75hp in USA.","Answered my own question by searching the internet: +Yamaha - 2 plants in Japan, one in France, one in Brazil. +Merc - 40, 50, 60hp in China. +Merc - less than 30hp by Tohatsu in Japan. +Merc - over 75hp in USA.","Recheck engine spark without ydis IMPORTANT! (using ydis for spark test should only be for testing ignition coil and ecu output) +check stop switch/kill switch and loom (if white cable is grounded fuel injection is cut along with ignition and isc stopped) i'm unsure if ydis tests can be carried out with this lanyard on (switch off) +During cranking, the ignition timing should be at 10degree BTDC until the engine starts +check pulsar coils +check isc valve functioning (Unlikely the problem)" +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.",Here is one example apart of many others part no 67F-11181-01-00 for 115hp TJRA Yamaha and part no 8041151 for Mercury Saltwater 115hp EFI EXLPT Cylinder head gaskets are one and the same thing,Here is one example apart of many others part no 67F-11181-01-00 for 115hp TJRA Yamaha and part no 8041151 for Mercury Saltwater 115hp EFI EXLPT Cylinder head gaskets are one and the same thing,Jump pump with 12 volts to see if it runs +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.","Tegweni said: + + + + Here is one example apart of many others part no 67F-11181-01-00 for 115hp TJRA Yamaha and part no 8041151 for Mercury Saltwater 115hp EFI EXLPT Cylinder head gaskets are one and the same thing + +Click to expand... + + +Yamaha and Mercury shared a partnership with respect to producing motors. Most were made by Yamaha and then painted black and sold by Mercury. Referred to as Mercaha's or Yamamerc's.","Tegweni said: + + + + Here is one example apart of many others part no 67F-11181-01-00 for 115hp TJRA Yamaha and part no 8041151 for Mercury Saltwater 115hp EFI EXLPT Cylinder head gaskets are one and the same thing + +Click to expand... + + +Yamaha and Mercury shared a partnership with respect to producing motors. Most were made by Yamaha and then painted black and sold by Mercury. Referred to as Mercaha's or Yamamerc's.","Ayuh,... what kinda motor,..??" +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.",Purchase new Yamaha 2 Stroke Boat Engine here: https://www.yama2strokeoutboard.com/,Purchase new Yamaha 2 Stroke Boat Engine here: https://www.yama2strokeoutboard.com/,ClassicAQ I don't have a service manual just recently got the boat ���� I definitely need one +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.","yamaha2strokeoutboard said: + + + + Purchase new Yamaha 2 Stroke Boat Engine here: https://www.yama2strokeoutboard.com/ + +Click to expand... + + +Good info; where is this place?","yamaha2strokeoutboard said: + + + + Purchase new Yamaha 2 Stroke Boat Engine here: https://www.yama2strokeoutboard.com/ + +Click to expand... + + +Good info; where is this place?","NEVADA GAMABLER said: + + + + guess I will have to plug up the weep hole also + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... I donno yer hull, but I've got a Starcraft riveted hull,.... + +Sealin' the weephole in the keel might fix it,.... til Winter,..... + +If that cavity is fulla water, it'll blow it apart if it freezes,... + +The hull envelope is above that piece of metal, hence the weep hole to drain it,.... + +Can ya get to the keel on the Inside of the hull,..?? that's where it sounds like the leak is,.... + +Maybe paint it inside with Glov-it, or Geo-cel tri-polymer, brushable,... +Both are fluid enough to seep in, cure, 'n seal small leaks,..." +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.","Just know that if a Yam is purchased from there, and the owner resides in the USA, the motor will not have any warranty. Many Yam US dealers won't work on it if needed.","Just know that if a Yam is purchased from there, and the owner resides in the USA, the motor will not have any warranty. Many Yam US dealers won't work on it if needed.",Is the plastic piece you are talking about the housing if possible put up pics +"Hello folks, I am considering re-powering my pontoon with a Yamaha 40 or 50 EFI. Does anyone know if Yamaha makes that engine or does some other company make it? +I bought a Tohatsu 9.8 a few years ago and found that Tohatsu makes the Merc and Yamaha 9.9; ergo my question.","We are located in HongKong, the price of this engine is 1,500USD. You can contact us for the photos of the engine via: [email protected]","We are located in HongKong, the price of this engine is 1,500USD. You can contact us for the photos of the engine via: [email protected]","Paul, unfortunately more times that none new over old doesn't work, that said, according to the aged of your boat most likely your electrical system is corroded and compromised, you will pend your time of ownership trying to fix problems that will be constantly reappearing, is like trying to fix a failing dam with chewing gum. My best advise is to rewire your boat, it is not difficult or costly anyone can do it with some time, elementary tools and some common cense, I did mine ten years ago and I have never encounter another electrical problem, before it was a nightmare, looking behind the dash was like looking at an spaghetti bowl, could not figure out anything. just my 2c" +"I have a 1987 crestliner Sabre with 1987 yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke . Took the boat out this afternoon and boat would not go over approx 1500 rpm in gear . In neutral it idles as normal and can rev up to 3000 rpm but sounds like it's missing. Then I trimmed up the motor a little, went to accelerate and ran well got it up on plane with no problems and ran it like that for 3 to 4 mins thought the problem was fixed . I slowed it down put it neutral, turned it off and back on .Then the same thing happened as before and couldn't get it past 1500 rpm in gear would stall . The carbs were overhauled and new fuel filter, fuel line and bulb . Any ideas ?","1st.....never ever never ever run up ur rpms in neutral. Any thing above 1500 and ur asking for trouble. Doing so provides no diagnostic value or outcome, thus is useless. + +When in gear ear and throttling up if the engine sounds deep throaty then this is fuel related, most likely clogged jet(s). Pull carbs, pull jets, soak, clear....check floats to spec, reassemble.","1st.....never ever never ever run up ur rpms in neutral. Any thing above 1500 and ur asking for trouble. Doing so provides no diagnostic value or outcome, thus is useless. + +When in gear ear and throttling up if the engine sounds deep throaty then this is fuel related, most likely clogged jet(s). Pull carbs, pull jets, soak, clear....check floats to spec, reassemble.","makomark said: + + + + if you have a 'brand name' boat where thousands have been made, you can shop around. If not, you best bet would be to have one made at a canvas or uphostery shop...I would suggest a fabric designed for the purpose - something like sunbrella fabric, that will hold up to the environment. Since you will be mooring it, you'll want a fastening system that will let you exit the boat and seal it up easy....probably a snap on button type. Again, the shop can make recommendations. You can also ask around the marina or visit the other nearby one..... + +Click to expand... + + +I like your opinion. This is much better because you can choose what material you want to use." +"I have a 1987 crestliner Sabre with 1987 yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke . Took the boat out this afternoon and boat would not go over approx 1500 rpm in gear . In neutral it idles as normal and can rev up to 3000 rpm but sounds like it's missing. Then I trimmed up the motor a little, went to accelerate and ran well got it up on plane with no problems and ran it like that for 3 to 4 mins thought the problem was fixed . I slowed it down put it neutral, turned it off and back on .Then the same thing happened as before and couldn't get it past 1500 rpm in gear would stall . The carbs were overhauled and new fuel filter, fuel line and bulb . Any ideas ?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + 1st.....never ever never ever run up ur rpms in neutral. Any thing above 1500 and ur asking for trouble. Doing so provides no diagnostic value or outcome, thus is useless. + +When in gear ear and throttling up if the engine sounds deep throaty then this is fuel related, most likely clogged jet(s). Pull carbs, pull jets, soak, clear....check floats to spec, reassemble. + +Click to expand... + + +Yup your right I should of never run the engine that high in neutral. I did have the carbs pulled apart and soaked in seafoam/ gas as the carbs were gummed up then reassembled . The same problem persists , when I throttle up in gear it sounds like it's only running on a couple of cylinders then it cuts out and doesn't sound throaty . The mechanic I'm using seems to think electrical problem as its intermittent any other ideas would be helpful.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + 1st.....never ever never ever run up ur rpms in neutral. Any thing above 1500 and ur asking for trouble. Doing so provides no diagnostic value or outcome, thus is useless. + +When in gear ear and throttling up if the engine sounds deep throaty then this is fuel related, most likely clogged jet(s). Pull carbs, pull jets, soak, clear....check floats to spec, reassemble. + +Click to expand... + + +Yup your right I should of never run the engine that high in neutral. I did have the carbs pulled apart and soaked in seafoam/ gas as the carbs were gummed up then reassembled . The same problem persists , when I throttle up in gear it sounds like it's only running on a couple of cylinders then it cuts out and doesn't sound throaty . The mechanic I'm using seems to think electrical problem as its intermittent any other ideas would be helpful.","I emailed Yamaha Aust they gave the below response and included parts diagrams from 2005 for a 40XWTL +2 65W-43880-00 MOTOR ASSY 1 being the part No.... That doesn't seem to help and doesn't coincide with US Model part number, so it seems they use different part numbers, maybe the same part?????? +[FONT="]The US model is here so assuming the first two numbers mean nothing????? +67C-43880-00-00, 67C-43880-01, 67C-43880-01-00[/FONT]... + +67C438800000, 67C4388001, 67C438800100 + + +Hi Michael, + +We have attached parts diagram for the trim motor assembly. + +Supersession Part number, Item 2 - Motor Assembly is 65W-43880-01. + +Unfortunately, there is no equivalent year model in the US due to the +introduction of legislated EPA regulations around this period. + +Hope this helps. + +Kind Regards, + +Technical Support Officer (Marine) +YAMAHA MOTOR AUSTRALIA + +67C438800000, 67C4388001, 67C438800100" +"I have a 1987 crestliner Sabre with 1987 yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke . Took the boat out this afternoon and boat would not go over approx 1500 rpm in gear . In neutral it idles as normal and can rev up to 3000 rpm but sounds like it's missing. Then I trimmed up the motor a little, went to accelerate and ran well got it up on plane with no problems and ran it like that for 3 to 4 mins thought the problem was fixed . I slowed it down put it neutral, turned it off and back on .Then the same thing happened as before and couldn't get it past 1500 rpm in gear would stall . The carbs were overhauled and new fuel filter, fuel line and bulb . Any ideas ?","Did pulling carbs apart also include removing all jets, clearing orifice? Hold each jet up to light...u shud be able to see thru. Fuel system accounts for 90% of all ob motor issues. Advise not to move on to compression or spark until you've r/o fuel system. + +With that said, compression test and metering coils are quick and simple diag tests.","Did pulling carbs apart also include removing all jets, clearing orifice? Hold each jet up to light...u shud be able to see thru. Fuel system accounts for 90% of all ob motor issues. Advise not to move on to compression or spark until you've r/o fuel system. + +With that said, compression test and metering coils are quick and simple diag tests.","Send an email with your issues to simyamaha... There used to be guy there who posted on this forum quite a bit and could diagnose about everything. Think his name may have been ""Chris"". He's the one who led me to that damn VST filter in my F115 Yammy after I had checked everything I could... Of course, there's no mention of that stupid filter in the owner's manual!" +"I have a 1987 crestliner Sabre with 1987 yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke . Took the boat out this afternoon and boat would not go over approx 1500 rpm in gear . In neutral it idles as normal and can rev up to 3000 rpm but sounds like it's missing. Then I trimmed up the motor a little, went to accelerate and ran well got it up on plane with no problems and ran it like that for 3 to 4 mins thought the problem was fixed . I slowed it down put it neutral, turned it off and back on .Then the same thing happened as before and couldn't get it past 1500 rpm in gear would stall . The carbs were overhauled and new fuel filter, fuel line and bulb . Any ideas ?",Purchase 2 stroke boat engine on: https://www.yama2strokeoutboard.com/,Purchase 2 stroke boat engine on: https://www.yama2strokeoutboard.com/,"Try bypassing the switch by connecting a 12v jump to the small blue and then green and see if that works, if it does you either have a bad connection somewhere or a bad trim switch." +"Good morning, Any advice please? Usually runs well. As soon as throttle pushed forward or back the engine cuts out. Please let me know if you need anything further. Michael",Engine hp/modle/yr is a good start,Engine hp/modle/yr is a good start,"Since the water pump is working (pissing) at low rpms before you throttle up, it could be that the woodruff key is not properly set into the shaft. At low rpms the key is able to grab the impeller slot, but once you increase rpms the key is slipping out of impeller slot. + +Has the keys shaft slot been messed with in the past? The key itself is replaced with every new pump kit. But if the shaft slot has been gauged in some way that allows the key to sit deeper into the slot this would be a problem. The key should be snug in the shaft slot, but never hammered in so much that a few millimeters aren't raised above shaft. + +Id drop the LU and have a look. We know the impeller works bc the shaft is turning it at low rpms. But not at high rpms." +"Hey all, + +Trying to get my grandmothers pontoon going and she has a 88 25hp ELG. I am trying to find a Lower casing cap. The official part number is 6L2-45361-00-EK but they don't make it anymore. I was wondering if anyone knew how much the part actually changed because all I can find is 6L2-45361-03-8D in stock anywhere. Or do you have any aftermarket options for me. + +I appreciate it.","If you google search the part number any distributer carrying the part will also list the superseded part number. Then order accordingly. Otherwise, my go to for yam parts is boats.net. Call and ask for superseded part#","If you google search the part number any distributer carrying the part will also list the superseded part number. Then order accordingly. Otherwise, my go to for yam parts is boats.net. Call and ask for superseded part#",I have a 2005 250 txrd and having the same problem. Both sensors check ok with a meter the motor runs with the e/switch and on the bench. I checked continuity from the motor to the remote tank. Have a negative on all the black wires involved. I have a service manual. What am I missing? +"Hey all, + +Trying to get my grandmothers pontoon going and she has a 88 25hp ELG. I am trying to find a Lower casing cap. The official part number is 6L2-45361-00-EK but they don't make it anymore. I was wondering if anyone knew how much the part actually changed because all I can find is 6L2-45361-03-8D in stock anywhere. Or do you have any aftermarket options for me. + +I appreciate it.",A 6L2-45361-03-4D cap could very well work.,A 6L2-45361-03-4D cap could very well work.,"The fuel guage should have four wires S is sending unit I is ignition switch (same hot for tach) depending on guage you have ground to light and power to light from navigation light switch. I believe the purple wire is hot from the ignition switch to tach just use it for hot to fuel tank. Your accy switch should power up the accys move the pigtail to the switched side to the other switches. Does your engine have a overheat warning horn? There should be a switch on or around the spark plugs with one wire coming out. Turn the ignition on and short the wire going to the switch to ground the horn should sound. It shouldnt take much and yes replacing all those old switches will eliminate that factor as well and if in doubt fuse it! +http://www.ebay.com/itm/TELEFLEX-HU...ash=item2c5a445c58:g:~jEAAMXQySpRW8wZ&vxp=mtr" +"Hey all, + +Trying to get my grandmothers pontoon going and she has a 88 25hp ELG. I am trying to find a Lower casing cap. The official part number is 6L2-45361-00-EK but they don't make it anymore. I was wondering if anyone knew how much the part actually changed because all I can find is 6L2-45361-03-8D in stock anywhere. Or do you have any aftermarket options for me. + +I appreciate it.","That's the rough part there is no superceded part numbers out there. I can only go by pictures of the parts. + +Judging by the pictures it MIGHT work but dunno","That's the rough part there is no superceded part numbers out there. I can only go by pictures of the parts. + +Judging by the pictures it MIGHT work but dunno","Thanks for the replies, will give it another try at finding a trim limit switch and see how it goes. I like the idea of trim tabs, not too expensive and i have seen great reviews" +"Hey all, + +Trying to get my grandmothers pontoon going and she has a 88 25hp ELG. I am trying to find a Lower casing cap. The official part number is 6L2-45361-00-EK but they don't make it anymore. I was wondering if anyone knew how much the part actually changed because all I can find is 6L2-45361-03-8D in stock anywhere. Or do you have any aftermarket options for me. + +I appreciate it.","Poor record keeping on Yamaha's part. + +6L2-45361 is the base number. + +-00-EK were the original dash numbers. Last two are for the colour code. + +It is normal for a -00 to be replaced by a -01. -01 R/B -02. -02 R/B -03. + +4D is the latest colour code or finish code. But who cares.","Poor record keeping on Yamaha's part. + +6L2-45361 is the base number. + +-00-EK were the original dash numbers. Last two are for the colour code. + +It is normal for a -00 to be replaced by a -01. -01 R/B -02. -02 R/B -03. + +4D is the latest colour code or finish code. But who cares.",Yea its rite on top oil filter screws into motor +"Hey all, + +Trying to get my grandmothers pontoon going and she has a 88 25hp ELG. I am trying to find a Lower casing cap. The official part number is 6L2-45361-00-EK but they don't make it anymore. I was wondering if anyone knew how much the part actually changed because all I can find is 6L2-45361-03-8D in stock anywhere. Or do you have any aftermarket options for me. + +I appreciate it.","boscoe said: + + + + Poor record keeping on Yamaha's part. + +6L2-45361 is the base number. + +-00-EK were the original dash numbers. Last two are for the colour code. + +It is normal for a -00 to be replaced by a -01. -01 R/B -02. -02 R/B -03. + +4D is the latest colour code or finish code. But who cares. + +Click to expand... + + + +Might give it a try then. They are $75 and if it doesn't fit I can always do a return I guess. + +I appreciate it and so does my grandma.","boscoe said: + + + + Poor record keeping on Yamaha's part. + +6L2-45361 is the base number. + +-00-EK were the original dash numbers. Last two are for the colour code. + +It is normal for a -00 to be replaced by a -01. -01 R/B -02. -02 R/B -03. + +4D is the latest colour code or finish code. But who cares. + +Click to expand... + + + +Might give it a try then. They are $75 and if it doesn't fit I can always do a return I guess. + +I appreciate it and so does my grandma.","Thanks. I see zero PSI at all rpms. But I am NOT overheating. The motor pees just fine. + +There is a little mistrust issue developing between the dealer and me. I specifically asked if there was an optional sensor that I didn't have or wasn't hooked up. They stated ""No, that gauge used a pitot tube that they no longer connect"". Now, I knew that was wrong. There's no input for a tube on the 6yc. So I was trying to determine whether they were just pushing me off instead of taking care of a valid concern. I bet that I don't have the sensor. I can live with that answer. thanks again!" +"I know the oil injection bypass thing has been beat to death. I don't wana have the bypass or don't bypass conversation. I bought a motor that was already bypassed. The tank & bracket are gone & im not going buy the parts to redo the oil injection. I was rebuilding carbs & decided to pull off the oil pump to see if whoever did the bypass removed the shaft & they did not. It was still there. Id rather put it back together with a block off plate instead of putting the pump back on. Problem is I can't find one listed for the outboards, they are all for jetskis. Does anyone know of a plate for the outboards? Specifically a 1997 40tlrv.","sgms18 said: + + + + I know the oil injection bypass thing has been beat to death. I don't wana have the bypass or don't bypass conversation. I bought a motor that was already bypassed. The tank & bracket are gone & im not going buy the parts to redo the oil injection. I was rebuilding carbs & decided to pull off the oil pump to see if whoever did the bypass removed the shaft & they did not. It was still there. Id rather put it back together with a block off plate instead of putting the pump back on. Problem is I can't find one listed for the outboards, they are all for jetskis. Does anyone know of a plate for the outboards? Specifically a 1997 40tlrv. + +Click to expand... + + +just take the guts out of it an put it back on. Make sure nothing can get in the block before you put it back on there","sgms18 said: + + + + I know the oil injection bypass thing has been beat to death. I don't wana have the bypass or don't bypass conversation. I bought a motor that was already bypassed. The tank & bracket are gone & im not going buy the parts to redo the oil injection. I was rebuilding carbs & decided to pull off the oil pump to see if whoever did the bypass removed the shaft & they did not. It was still there. Id rather put it back together with a block off plate instead of putting the pump back on. Problem is I can't find one listed for the outboards, they are all for jetskis. Does anyone know of a plate for the outboards? Specifically a 1997 40tlrv. + +Click to expand... + + +just take the guts out of it an put it back on. Make sure nothing can get in the block before you put it back on there","Why the reluctance to provide the model identity? Is the motor ""hot""? + +What country are you in? Here in the USA there were five different F15XXXX models offered. F15CELH, F15CESH, F15CMLH, F15CMSH and F15CPLH. + +Is your motor one of these five? If so, which one? + +The more information that you can provide the better the answer(s) you will receive. Otherwise everyone is left having to guess." +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","Did your carb cleaning include removing the pilot and main jets? The orifices of these 2 jets need to be completely clear of debris. What is the status of primer bulb when engine starves for fuel?...collapsed, normal? You should be able to feel fuel flow through the bulb just by lightly holding the bulb in the palm of your hand as the engine is running. The higher rpms, the more flow you should feel. Try pumping the primer bulb as you get over 1/4 throttle, see how the engine reacts. Reply back with results.","Did your carb cleaning include removing the pilot and main jets? The orifices of these 2 jets need to be completely clear of debris. What is the status of primer bulb when engine starves for fuel?...collapsed, normal? You should be able to feel fuel flow through the bulb just by lightly holding the bulb in the palm of your hand as the engine is running. The higher rpms, the more flow you should feel. Try pumping the primer bulb as you get over 1/4 throttle, see how the engine reacts. Reply back with results.","Ayuh,..... A bilge pump will be in the aft area of the bilge, where water collects,...... + +If you haven't seen it, there probably isn't one there,..... + +Just add one,....." +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","Thanks ClassicAQ! + +Yes I removed the pilot and main jets. I took the whole thing completely apart, sprayed every hole (including the teeny tiny ones) and soaked it. Since then I've only used ethanol-free premium. + +The bulb is relatively hard at low throttle, then it becomes soft at higher throttle. It doesn't collapse, but it also doesn't have any pressure on it. When I pump it (at high throttle), the engine runs just the slightest bit better, but still acts like it's running out of gas.","Thanks ClassicAQ! + +Yes I removed the pilot and main jets. I took the whole thing completely apart, sprayed every hole (including the teeny tiny ones) and soaked it. Since then I've only used ethanol-free premium. + +The bulb is relatively hard at low throttle, then it becomes soft at higher throttle. It doesn't collapse, but it also doesn't have any pressure on it. When I pump it (at high throttle), the engine runs just the slightest bit better, but still acts like it's running out of gas.","If something got so hot it burned away the insulation, you better make a thorough inspection of the entire wiring before venturing out into the big briny sea." +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","fritz3000g said: + + + + Thanks ClassicAQ! + +Yes I removed the pilot and main jets. I took the whole thing completely apart, sprayed every hole (including the teeny tiny ones) and soaked it. Since then I've only used ethanol-free premium. + +The bulb is relatively hard at low throttle, then it becomes soft at higher throttle. It doesn't collapse, but it also doesn't have any pressure on it. When I pump it (at high throttle), the engine runs just the slightest bit better, but still acts like it's running out of gas. + +Click to expand... + + + +Are you running the fuel line off a portable tank or below deck tank? Sounds like a fuel line restriction between tank and bulb. The bulb should not be soft at higher rpms. These new portable tanks with their EPA safeguards cause havoc on the fuel system, same goes with below deck fuel tank pick up too. If you have a portable tank and it's got the newer EPA cap, try getting a hold of the older style vented cap and see if it makes a difference.","fritz3000g said: + + + + Thanks ClassicAQ! + +Yes I removed the pilot and main jets. I took the whole thing completely apart, sprayed every hole (including the teeny tiny ones) and soaked it. Since then I've only used ethanol-free premium. + +The bulb is relatively hard at low throttle, then it becomes soft at higher throttle. It doesn't collapse, but it also doesn't have any pressure on it. When I pump it (at high throttle), the engine runs just the slightest bit better, but still acts like it's running out of gas. + +Click to expand... + + + +Are you running the fuel line off a portable tank or below deck tank? Sounds like a fuel line restriction between tank and bulb. The bulb should not be soft at higher rpms. These new portable tanks with their EPA safeguards cause havoc on the fuel system, same goes with below deck fuel tank pick up too. If you have a portable tank and it's got the newer EPA cap, try getting a hold of the older style vented cap and see if it makes a difference.",Depending on the year your local shop may not want to touch it. +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","I'm running a portable tank. Lifting it up to be level with the motor doesn't help. + +It has a vent in the cap. I've looked at the fuel hose inside the tank and it appears fine but I can try someone else's gas tank and hose this weekend to see if that helps. Thanks for the suggestion - it would be fantastic if the issue was something so inexpensive to fix.","I'm running a portable tank. Lifting it up to be level with the motor doesn't help. + +It has a vent in the cap. I've looked at the fuel hose inside the tank and it appears fine but I can try someone else's gas tank and hose this weekend to see if that helps. Thanks for the suggestion - it would be fantastic if the issue was something so inexpensive to fix.",If a part is missing why wouldn't you simply replace it? +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","Ok, so I ran a test last night where I opened up the carburator drain, and pumped the fuel line pump. LOTS of fuel flowed through. I think that rules out the tank, line, and fuel pump (am I mistaken?). From past experience with lawnmowers, snowblowers, and this motor, i've never seen a carburator issue which didn't result in idling problems. My motor idles fine. + +So does that mean the issue has to be downstream of the carburator? + +The engine compression is good. The one thing I've noticed is that the oil on the dipstick has a faint gasoline smell. + +Any ideas where, given the remaining options, my poor high-throttle operation might be coming from?","Ok, so I ran a test last night where I opened up the carburator drain, and pumped the fuel line pump. LOTS of fuel flowed through. I think that rules out the tank, line, and fuel pump (am I mistaken?). From past experience with lawnmowers, snowblowers, and this motor, i've never seen a carburator issue which didn't result in idling problems. My motor idles fine. + +So does that mean the issue has to be downstream of the carburator? + +The engine compression is good. The one thing I've noticed is that the oil on the dipstick has a faint gasoline smell. + +Any ideas where, given the remaining options, my poor high-throttle operation might be coming from?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + How about let's first start with learning from you the basics, other than your model number. + +Where are you hearing this metallic scrambling coming from....under the cowling, from lower unit? Since the engine starts, what happens with this sound as you increase rpms in neutral? What happens with this sound as you increase rpms in gear? Any smoke when it's running, other than normal exhaust. Odd smells? Might want to first check the flywheel cover. If it's mounted too low, you will hear the sound you've described, despite the cover not being metal. + +The more details you provide this forum, the more accurate thus better suggestions you'll receive. + +Click to expand... + + +See above for my previous response to your initial thread question. We don't know what this issue is related to until you first determine where the metallic noise is coming from." +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","Well... based on this article: http://www.ebay.com/gds/5-Common-Symptoms-of-a-Malfunctioning-Fuel-Pump-/10000000177634796/g.html and working through the troubleshooting guide in the service manual, the next thing for me to check was the fuel pump. + +After pulling off the hoses and running the starter I definitely feel that it's generating pressure. I don't have a gauge, but it seems like plenty to move the necessary fuel. I also can't blow through the wrong direction, so the one-way is solid. + +So... that leaves me at a loss. To recap: + +- Fuel coming out of the tank fine - hose ball pushes sufficient fuel through to carburetor bowl, and stays hard when motor not operating. +- Fuel pump seems to be working +- Motor has good compression +- Motor runs fine for first 10 minutes of operating and then sputters above 1/4 throttle. + +Any other ideas?","Well... based on this article: http://www.ebay.com/gds/5-Common-Symptoms-of-a-Malfunctioning-Fuel-Pump-/10000000177634796/g.html and working through the troubleshooting guide in the service manual, the next thing for me to check was the fuel pump. + +After pulling off the hoses and running the starter I definitely feel that it's generating pressure. I don't have a gauge, but it seems like plenty to move the necessary fuel. I also can't blow through the wrong direction, so the one-way is solid. + +So... that leaves me at a loss. To recap: + +- Fuel coming out of the tank fine - hose ball pushes sufficient fuel through to carburetor bowl, and stays hard when motor not operating. +- Fuel pump seems to be working +- Motor has good compression +- Motor runs fine for first 10 minutes of operating and then sputters above 1/4 throttle. + +Any other ideas?","I checked vent cap. I may have tightened it, but defintely didn't close it any. In fact you can't close it, as it will only let you tighten so far before it stops, so that the screened vent remains open. In trying to think of other possibly related symptoms .... I've noticed the primer bulb never hardens after pumping, but am not sure what that means if anything. And as stated above, I noticed more gas than normal coming from the vent when re-fueling right before this trip. It occured even though I made effort to pump more slowly. This did not occur at previous fill ups, except one where I filled tank all the way up to its limit." +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","The only way to know if the fuel pump is functioning correctly is to hook up a vacuum meter. I know you think it's functioning correctly, but a meter test is required in order to completely rule it out. When you opened the carb drain screw and pumped primer bulb, this would not mimic the function of the fuel pump. Because you're pushing in fuel, while the fuel pump pulls fuel via crankcase pressure.","The only way to know if the fuel pump is functioning correctly is to hook up a vacuum meter. I know you think it's functioning correctly, but a meter test is required in order to completely rule it out. When you opened the carb drain screw and pumped primer bulb, this would not mimic the function of the fuel pump. Because you're pushing in fuel, while the fuel pump pulls fuel via crankcase pressure.","Looks like a good solution. If I were doing this project, I would likely use liquid electrical tape to seal each hole where the wires enter the connector. Furthermore, if I knew there would be few occasions where I needed to disconnect the plug, I would seal the mating faces of the plug with clear silicon." +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","Thanks ClassicAQ. + +I don't have a meter, and if heating up is the source of the problem I'd have to test it hot. In the meantime, I figured there are two tests I can do after the motor starts sputtering. + +One is to bypass the fuel pump and hoist the fuel tank above the level of the motor. +The second is to hose down the fuel pump with water till it's cool (I guess the new fuel pumps are water cooled to avoid vapor lock). + +Hope to try them next time I'm in the water. Thanks again!","Thanks ClassicAQ. + +I don't have a meter, and if heating up is the source of the problem I'd have to test it hot. In the meantime, I figured there are two tests I can do after the motor starts sputtering. + +One is to bypass the fuel pump and hoist the fuel tank above the level of the motor. +The second is to hose down the fuel pump with water till it's cool (I guess the new fuel pumps are water cooled to avoid vapor lock). + +Hope to try them next time I'm in the water. Thanks again!","Yep, a spun prop will definitely heat up the exterior quite a bit. Pull the prop and closely inspect where the rubber inside connects to the center hub and the outer prop metal. If that connection is raised and or flaky, then you have a spun prop. If so, it can be repaired by a shop that specializes in restoring props. Most any marine repair/maintenance shop will have several contacts where they send their props for restoration." +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","fritz3000g said: + + + + Thanks ClassicAQ. + +I don't have a meter, and if heating up is the source of the problem I'd have to test it hot. In the meantime, I figured there are two tests I can do after the motor starts sputtering. + +One is to bypass the fuel pump and hoist the fuel tank above the level of the motor. +The second is to hose down the fuel pump with water till it's cool (I guess the new fuel pumps are water cooled to avoid vapor lock). + +Hope to try them next time I'm in the water. Thanks again! + +Click to expand... + + +I'm confused, or you're confused, about how your fuel pump operates. As you can see in the parts blow-out, your fuel pump is not a mechanical pump, therefore it would not heat up from friction caused by moving parts. The fuel pump pushes/pulls fuel via the diaphragm due to changing pressure in the crankcase. The first test you mentioned of gravity assist is a useful diagnostic test for troubleshooting fuel pumps. The 2nd test is not.","fritz3000g said: + + + + Thanks ClassicAQ. + +I don't have a meter, and if heating up is the source of the problem I'd have to test it hot. In the meantime, I figured there are two tests I can do after the motor starts sputtering. + +One is to bypass the fuel pump and hoist the fuel tank above the level of the motor. +The second is to hose down the fuel pump with water till it's cool (I guess the new fuel pumps are water cooled to avoid vapor lock). + +Hope to try them next time I'm in the water. Thanks again! + +Click to expand... + + +I'm confused, or you're confused, about how your fuel pump operates. As you can see in the parts blow-out, your fuel pump is not a mechanical pump, therefore it would not heat up from friction caused by moving parts. The fuel pump pushes/pulls fuel via the diaphragm due to changing pressure in the crankcase. The first test you mentioned of gravity assist is a useful diagnostic test for troubleshooting fuel pumps. The 2nd test is not.",This is not the one but similar. the wire comes out the side. No way to attach to a trolling motor. Mine doesnt have the lip like this on the top butthat is where i say it is concave. +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","plz reference below picture. + +(butterfly valve opening grade of relate carburetor fuel parts)","plz reference below picture. + +(butterfly valve opening grade of relate carburetor fuel parts)","Mechanic indicates it is a problem in the engine harness (a bad diode or something?). It is underwarranty but harness is backordered. I assume more to come. I am also going to replace the wire harnesses that go from the engines (twins) to the binnacle at the dash. May replace the binnacle as well. Both are 18 year old and sees salt spray. I'm thinking preventative measures. More to come. +Len" +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","I not sure why the fuel pump performs poorly when heated. It's attached metal-to-metal with the engine, so heat would certainly move through. In any case, it appears to be a problem others have experienced. Here's one thread: + +http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/forum2/t9-9-fuel-starvation-fixed-long-th3901.html","I not sure why the fuel pump performs poorly when heated. It's attached metal-to-metal with the engine, so heat would certainly move through. In any case, it appears to be a problem others have experienced. Here's one thread: + +http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/forum2/t9-9-fuel-starvation-fixed-long-th3901.html","jfrey45 said: + + + + I have a 2009 Yamaha 60 hp 4 stroke outboard with a single piston tilt unit. I disassembled the unit to replace the end cap seal that was leaking. In doing so now the unit does not stop the engine from kicking up when in reverse, which it did correctly before. This unit has the spall ball bearings that fall out when dissembling, which I did not lose and of, and no o rings were replaced, only the top seal. +Any thoughts on why it docent hold the engine down now. + +Jeff + +Click to expand... + +I have the exact same problem. Did you ever find out what the problem was? Somebody please help!" +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","Well, I did the tests described above, and neither of them made any difference on the motor stalling at higher throttle when it's warm. + +As a matter of fact, I got a misfire while doing the experiment, which I think is the result of excess fuel. So that leads me to believe that it's got enough gas. + +So... the other options are electrical and oxygen. I know there's a thermostat, but I was under the impression it only adjusted the idle speed. Does it do anything else? + +Back to the drawing board, I guess.","Well, I did the tests described above, and neither of them made any difference on the motor stalling at higher throttle when it's warm. + +As a matter of fact, I got a misfire while doing the experiment, which I think is the result of excess fuel. So that leads me to believe that it's got enough gas. + +So... the other options are electrical and oxygen. I know there's a thermostat, but I was under the impression it only adjusted the idle speed. Does it do anything else? + +Back to the drawing board, I guess.",never ever have your humming bird on while you start the engine. start the engine........then power up the hummingbird. (same advice that is in the owners manual) +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!","fritz3000g said: + + + + Well, I did the tests described above, and neither of them made any difference on the motor stalling at higher throttle when it's warm. + +As a matter of fact, I got a misfire while doing the experiment, which I think is the result of excess fuel. So that leads me to believe that it's got enough gas. + +So... the other options are electrical and oxygen. I know there's a thermostat, but I was under the impression it only adjusted the idle speed. Does it do anything else? + +Back to the drawing board, I guess. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi, I'm sorry to bother you and butt in on your thread but I seem to have exactly the same problem with my Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke. Did you manage to get yours sorted? If so, could you please let me know what was wrong with it.","fritz3000g said: + + + + Well, I did the tests described above, and neither of them made any difference on the motor stalling at higher throttle when it's warm. + +As a matter of fact, I got a misfire while doing the experiment, which I think is the result of excess fuel. So that leads me to believe that it's got enough gas. + +So... the other options are electrical and oxygen. I know there's a thermostat, but I was under the impression it only adjusted the idle speed. Does it do anything else? + +Back to the drawing board, I guess. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi, I'm sorry to bother you and butt in on your thread but I seem to have exactly the same problem with my Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke. Did you manage to get yours sorted? If so, could you please let me know what was wrong with it.","Fuel lines should be 3/8"". When you're idling and vacuum pressure is at its lowest, I imagine the fuel pump cannot deliver fuel through a 3/16"" line." +"Hi there, + +My 1989 9.9 hp 4 stroke is having trouble when above about 1/4 throttle. Below that, it runs great and has for weeks. But over 1/4 throttle, especially when it's warmed up, it acts like it's running out of gas. Any thoughts? The carburator has been soaked and cleaned carefully. + +Thanks!",I am also having the same issue. It is almost like the timing is not advancing?? I have the green oil pressure light so I know I have good oil pressure. I have heard that if there is an oil pressure issue that it will retard the timing?? is this controlled by the ECU? I am getting plenty of gas as when it bogs I can smell unburned gas from the exhaust and my primer bulb is hard? My motor is a 1989 9.9 4 stroke? Thx for anyone that can give advice on this.,I am also having the same issue. It is almost like the timing is not advancing?? I have the green oil pressure light so I know I have good oil pressure. I have heard that if there is an oil pressure issue that it will retard the timing?? is this controlled by the ECU? I am getting plenty of gas as when it bogs I can smell unburned gas from the exhaust and my primer bulb is hard? My motor is a 1989 9.9 4 stroke? Thx for anyone that can give advice on this.,"i decided to go with the 1 cooler, mainly to hold my minnows. +i mostly catch and release anyway, and who really wants to eat anything caught in any waters today ? +with all of the acid rain, chemical wash off" +"I have a 1994 Yamaha 200 2 stroke. On land the motor idles fine. Wines right up to 6000 rpms no problem. In the water won’t go over 1900 rpms. Idle speed in the water is fine. Just like it won’t take fuel. All filters are new. Carbs was rebuilt last year. I’m guessing aftermarket carb kits. Got back to the house and found the spark plugs really wet. All but one. And fuel inside in bottom of cowl that ran down the mid section and eat alittle paint off. + Never had this problem before. Do I need to have the carbs redone again or is it something else + When I drop the boat at the marine mechanic one carb was locked up so he got a used one and rebuilt all three carbs. First time out it did that big thing then cleared out. Next time out run fine. This time no luck. + Any advice please","Rev'ing motor in neutral has zero diagnostic value and is highly uncalled for. Not sure what ""locked up"" implies....clogged jets? If so, why was replacement carb required? Assuming carbs/jets were cleaned thoroughly and floats set to speck by mechanic, I'd trace back the fuel issue that caused the carbs to go bad....old fuel? Fuel pump? + +If plugs were wet after mechanic pulled/installed carbs then im guessing he did not time/sync carbs. Wet plugs indicate a rich mix, so the idle mix needs adjusting after time/sync. Frankly I'd take it back to mechanic who did the work and tell him to finish the job.","Rev'ing motor in neutral has zero diagnostic value and is highly uncalled for. Not sure what ""locked up"" implies....clogged jets? If so, why was replacement carb required? Assuming carbs/jets were cleaned thoroughly and floats set to speck by mechanic, I'd trace back the fuel issue that caused the carbs to go bad....old fuel? Fuel pump? + +If plugs were wet after mechanic pulled/installed carbs then im guessing he did not time/sync carbs. Wet plugs indicate a rich mix, so the idle mix needs adjusting after time/sync. Frankly I'd take it back to mechanic who did the work and tell him to finish the job.","boscoe said: + + + + Why is it so difficult to simply add a few more letters so that we know exactly what F200 is being discussed? You say you work on cars. If I ask you about fixing a transmission on a Chevrolet Impala is that enough information for you to give me an answer? + +Click to expand... + + +I'm sorry, I looked last night and saw no info on lower unit. The motor is still on boat. Im trying to get the info." +"Good morning, + +1st post and brand new to boating. I have a 1996 yamaha saltwater series 115hp 2-stroke motor. The main oil tank located in the stern that feeds the smaller tank on the engine will not do so when the oil levels are too low. The rev limiter does kick in at low oil, but the oil will not get replenished from the main tank. +I have checked the pump by wiring directly to the battery and it works. Does the control unit below the small tank (part #6E5-85740-02-00 CONTROL UNIT ASSY), determine this function?? + +Regards, SK","Hey Bikewider, If the oil pump motor is working, and your float sensor inside the small oil tank on the motor is not ""stuck"" in the floating or UP position then most likely your in-line mini filter from onboard oil tank to remote oil tank on the motor is clogged.","Hey Bikewider, If the oil pump motor is working, and your float sensor inside the small oil tank on the motor is not ""stuck"" in the floating or UP position then most likely your in-line mini filter from onboard oil tank to remote oil tank on the motor is clogged.","I have a 1994 Searay Sport Jet with the Mercury Force 90 hp 3 cylinder outboard motor + +I had this thing running great then had the air/fuel a little fat 2 turns instead of 1 1/2 and ran it hard with four people in the boat (700lbs) + +then it died after half and hour and wouldnt restart. + +I pulled the plugs and it spun but water started shooting out of the #3 cylinder. (compression: 120, 128, 105 respectively) + +after I spun the motor to cough out the water I put the plugs back in and the motor wont spin. (i can hand spin the motor but a brand new battery new relay and new cables arent enough to spin the motor freely. it will spin freely without the pugs in) + +heres my questions: is my first step pull the head i should check the head for crack or to see if i blew the head gasket? or should i not bother because the something in the block is jacked?" +"Good morning, + +1st post and brand new to boating. I have a 1996 yamaha saltwater series 115hp 2-stroke motor. The main oil tank located in the stern that feeds the smaller tank on the engine will not do so when the oil levels are too low. The rev limiter does kick in at low oil, but the oil will not get replenished from the main tank. +I have checked the pump by wiring directly to the battery and it works. Does the control unit below the small tank (part #6E5-85740-02-00 CONTROL UNIT ASSY), determine this function?? + +Regards, SK",Did the filter fix your problem ?,Did the filter fix your problem ?,Never mind. I'm an idiot. It should have clicked when I was writing this down yesterday but there was some crap between the needle and the seat. I pulled it apart and cleaned it again and it runs great. +"Good morning, + +1st post and brand new to boating. I have a 1996 yamaha saltwater series 115hp 2-stroke motor. The main oil tank located in the stern that feeds the smaller tank on the engine will not do so when the oil levels are too low. The rev limiter does kick in at low oil, but the oil will not get replenished from the main tank. +I have checked the pump by wiring directly to the battery and it works. Does the control unit below the small tank (part #6E5-85740-02-00 CONTROL UNIT ASSY), determine this function?? + +Regards, SK",Agreed w/above...need to check main tank sensors for function. Once r/o then check oil harness continuity.,Agreed w/above...need to check main tank sensors for function. Once r/o then check oil harness continuity.,"Assuming battery #1 is the house battery and battery # 2 is your cranking battery, you will want to pull a lead off of post #1 on the switch to run to your console, Also pull a lead directly from the negative post on battery #1 and run that to the console. Connect those to the fused distribution bus on the console, and from there power all of your equipment. Setting up that way, you will know that when you turn off the battery switch, all of your equipment will be turned off. The exception is the bilge pump, which should have the float switch wired directly to the battery. Don't power anything off of your key switch except the gauges." +Both sensors are new. The pump works when activated by the toggle switch. The in line filter is not plugged. Any ideas ? Thank for reading .,If you've replaced oil reservoir sensor but it's still not sending signal then most likely it's the signal/ground. Test sensor fround is good and do same for signal.,If you've replaced oil reservoir sensor but it's still not sending signal then most likely it's the signal/ground. Test sensor fround is good and do same for signal.,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + No, compressed air if fine. + + + + +If debris was lodged in the telltale hose nearest the water exit then its possible there is more debris in the hose nearest the block. Water discharge from the telltale hose is not the only point of water exiting the cooling system....there are multiple points on the LU as well. So if you see water exiting these LU points, but do not see water exiting the telltale, and your overheat alarm doesn't trigger, then its safe to assume water is reaching/cooling the motor. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes water comes out when I have the hose on the flush attachment at the bottom at least. I hope the rain stops today so I can try to get it cleaned out. Thanks I will let you know how i make out. Alan" +"I have a 2005 Yamaha 90 TLRD engine with Analog gauge set. The tach has two warning indicators, low oil and overheat lights. The overheat light comes on as soon as the ignition switch is turned on but no buzzer sounds. The engine goes into emergency mode so only revs to about 2k rpm but otherwise runs fine. I have checked the temperature sensor with an ohmmeter and even disconnected it but the same situation occurs. Is there any other situation that can cause this light to come on even though the buzzer doesn't sound? I replaced the water pump (even though it was OK) but I pretty much know that is not the problem since the light is on even when the engine is cold. Is there some fuse that I need to check ?",I reckon bad ground. When you tested sensor did you also test its feed?,I reckon bad ground. When you tested sensor did you also test its feed?,I did all of that. I did order a new kill switch it will be here tomorrow. the cheapest fix to start with so I will have to see if it is that simple. thank God for TowBoat US the tow in would of been $736.00 +"I have a 2005 Yamaha 90 TLRD engine with Analog gauge set. The tach has two warning indicators, low oil and overheat lights. The overheat light comes on as soon as the ignition switch is turned on but no buzzer sounds. The engine goes into emergency mode so only revs to about 2k rpm but otherwise runs fine. I have checked the temperature sensor with an ohmmeter and even disconnected it but the same situation occurs. Is there any other situation that can cause this light to come on even though the buzzer doesn't sound? I replaced the water pump (even though it was OK) but I pretty much know that is not the problem since the light is on even when the engine is cold. Is there some fuse that I need to check ?","Thank you very much for the reply. Since the temperature sensor seems to be just an open/closed switch, I am not sure how I would check the feed to the sensor. I only see two wires which I assume would not normally have voltage on them since it seems they would only be carrying the current to check for an open or closed circuit. Are you recommending that I check that circuit to see if there is a fault or grounding? I believe the normal state of the temperature is an open circuit (if not overheat has occurred). It also seems strange that I have an indicator light on with no buzzer. Has anyone heard of the gauge itself actually going bad? This isn't a digital gauge, its one of the analog ones (with the white face).","Thank you very much for the reply. Since the temperature sensor seems to be just an open/closed switch, I am not sure how I would check the feed to the sensor. I only see two wires which I assume would not normally have voltage on them since it seems they would only be carrying the current to check for an open or closed circuit. Are you recommending that I check that circuit to see if there is a fault or grounding? I believe the normal state of the temperature is an open circuit (if not overheat has occurred). It also seems strange that I have an indicator light on with no buzzer. Has anyone heard of the gauge itself actually going bad? This isn't a digital gauge, its one of the analog ones (with the white face).","You will have a tag stamped on it, that motor is from like 1988 up to 1996 I think" +"My 40 Hp 2 cycle Yahama ( 40TLRY) stalls under a long. It will run fine for about 2 min when first starting then will stall out under a load. I changed the water separator filter and it still does same thing. I bypass the filter and the engine runs fine . + +Should I just buy a new water separator unit, or am I able to fix this one. I am wondering if it is sucking in air from one of the connections . + +thank for any help that is giving .","I am wondering if I should just buy a new water separator unit. They are about 60 dollars. Do they go bad? I am not sure what inside of them can go bad . + +to edit above post. It stalls under a load.","I am wondering if I should just buy a new water separator unit. They are about 60 dollars. Do they go bad? I am not sure what inside of them can go bad . + +to edit above post. It stalls under a load.","yeah.^^ + +Thanks for your reply. + +I will do that (what you say) + +Have a good day!" +"My 40 Hp 2 cycle Yahama ( 40TLRY) stalls under a long. It will run fine for about 2 min when first starting then will stall out under a load. I changed the water separator filter and it still does same thing. I bypass the filter and the engine runs fine . + +Should I just buy a new water separator unit, or am I able to fix this one. I am wondering if it is sucking in air from one of the connections . + +thank for any help that is giving .","I guess another way to ask is ,can the water separator unit itself go bad? Maybe the gasket or some other spot letting air into unit","I guess another way to ask is ,can the water separator unit itself go bad? Maybe the gasket or some other spot letting air into unit",Look in manual to see if lower cowl can be removed +"My 40 Hp 2 cycle Yahama ( 40TLRY) stalls under a long. It will run fine for about 2 min when first starting then will stall out under a load. I changed the water separator filter and it still does same thing. I bypass the filter and the engine runs fine . + +Should I just buy a new water separator unit, or am I able to fix this one. I am wondering if it is sucking in air from one of the connections . + +thank for any help that is giving .","What is leading you to believe this issue is caused by water in fuel? Sounds fuel system issue, not filter related issue.","What is leading you to believe this issue is caused by water in fuel? Sounds fuel system issue, not filter related issue.","I'd buy 2-3 cans of jet spray carb cleaner and pull the carbs, break them down and give them a good cleaning... Blast carb cleaner through every hole and orifice you can find. Carb cleaner is CHEAP so use ALOT of it. Remember to back out the brass fuel jets and make sure the orifices in them are perfectly clean and clear. Seems like everything needs pulled and cleaned on a regular basis if you are burning ethanol-blended gas (whether you are adding a fuel stabilizer or not). That's where I'd start as it is not difficult and seems to be the root of many idling/running problems. Don't listen to anyone who says you need to buy new gaskets and such when you pull the carbs. I've pulled carbs over and over again and used all the same gaskets without a single issue. At the least, you'll have eliminated one of the most common causes of such problems." +"My 40 Hp 2 cycle Yahama ( 40TLRY) stalls under a long. It will run fine for about 2 min when first starting then will stall out under a load. I changed the water separator filter and it still does same thing. I bypass the filter and the engine runs fine . + +Should I just buy a new water separator unit, or am I able to fix this one. I am wondering if it is sucking in air from one of the connections . + +thank for any help that is giving .","When I bypass the water separator the motor runs perfect + +I have changed the water filter, and empty out the old one. For now I am running it without a water separator. + +which brings to the next question, how important is a water separator","When I bypass the water separator the motor runs perfect + +I have changed the water filter, and empty out the old one. For now I am running it without a water separator. + +which brings to the next question, how important is a water separator","I have the same problem, I'm going to change out the helm and see if it makes a difference." +"My 40 Hp 2 cycle Yahama ( 40TLRY) stalls under a long. It will run fine for about 2 min when first starting then will stall out under a load. I changed the water separator filter and it still does same thing. I bypass the filter and the engine runs fine . + +Should I just buy a new water separator unit, or am I able to fix this one. I am wondering if it is sucking in air from one of the connections . + +thank for any help that is giving .","they typically don't ""fail"" unless they are abused and then they may crack. + +Its you initial filter....so its important ....I'd be inclined to rebuild the fuel pump first...","they typically don't ""fail"" unless they are abused and then they may crack. + +Its you initial filter....so its important ....I'd be inclined to rebuild the fuel pump first...","The bonding system shouldn't have any impact on barnacle growth. + +Are you sure it is barnacles and not galvanic corrosion? Two different beast..." +"My 40 Hp 2 cycle Yahama ( 40TLRY) stalls under a long. It will run fine for about 2 min when first starting then will stall out under a load. I changed the water separator filter and it still does same thing. I bypass the filter and the engine runs fine . + +Should I just buy a new water separator unit, or am I able to fix this one. I am wondering if it is sucking in air from one of the connections . + +thank for any help that is giving .","It does have a new fuel pump. The marina that repaired it ,I think ,half assed everything + + +It does run run fine not using the water separator","It does have a new fuel pump. The marina that repaired it ,I think ,half assed everything + + +It does run run fine not using the water separator","kimcrwb1,What's On the back of the dixie 21 looks nothing like what's on the hermco or armstrong web sites,according to you tube site it's called a pod,probably home made, I'm presuming it's plywood that's glassed over and bolted to transom" +"My 40 Hp 2 cycle Yahama ( 40TLRY) stalls under a long. It will run fine for about 2 min when first starting then will stall out under a load. I changed the water separator filter and it still does same thing. I bypass the filter and the engine runs fine . + +Should I just buy a new water separator unit, or am I able to fix this one. I am wondering if it is sucking in air from one of the connections . + +thank for any help that is giving .","Aside from the filtering mechanism itself, the water separator shud not be a cause of fuel starvation. It's simply a reservior. But it sounds like you've isolated the separator as the issue. Only 2 possible reason I can think of, both human errors. The wrong size filter or you mistakenly connected the outlet fuel hose to the inlet filter.","Aside from the filtering mechanism itself, the water separator shud not be a cause of fuel starvation. It's simply a reservior. But it sounds like you've isolated the separator as the issue. Only 2 possible reason I can think of, both human errors. The wrong size filter or you mistakenly connected the outlet fuel hose to the inlet filter.","Johnny, I posted lengthy reply yesterday. Came up "" mods have to approve"" or some such nonsense. Maybe the overlords will approve. Slow typer. Not going to type all that again. Thanks for your input." +"My 40 Hp 2 cycle Yahama ( 40TLRY) stalls under a long. It will run fine for about 2 min when first starting then will stall out under a load. I changed the water separator filter and it still does same thing. I bypass the filter and the engine runs fine . + +Should I just buy a new water separator unit, or am I able to fix this one. I am wondering if it is sucking in air from one of the connections . + +thank for any help that is giving .","Thanks + +it is neither of two, but I will reconnect the water separator and see if it works. I did replace the squeeze ball that the marina replaced last year. I think everything the marina did was half ass. I am now thinking even the squeeze ball they put on went bad.","Thanks + +it is neither of two, but I will reconnect the water separator and see if it works. I did replace the squeeze ball that the marina replaced last year. I think everything the marina did was half ass. I am now thinking even the squeeze ball they put on went bad.",Is it mechanical or hydraulic steering? That has a rudder correct? Disconnect the cable or actuator at the rudder and see if the rudder turns fully in both directions and work your way back to the helm. Some pics would help not alot of threads I could find with that type of steering maybe another inboard forum would help you out better? +"I had this engine out twice in last week, yesterday powered up fine and stayed on plane. Today the same when I first went out in the morning. Coming in today it will come up on plane and run at 6000 rpm for about 20 seconds and powers down to 3000 rpm, will not power back up on plane? What could be wrong, no new fuel bought for last week or so, motor ran fine until today coming back from fishing.","When's last time you pulled carbs and jets? Doesn't take much gunk to clog jet. To rule out fuel pump, squeeze primer bulb when rpms drop. If rpms increase there's ur problem.","When's last time you pulled carbs and jets? Doesn't take much gunk to clog jet. To rule out fuel pump, squeeze primer bulb when rpms drop. If rpms increase there's ur problem.","Ayuh,... Post a picture of the cable/ motor connections,...." +"I had this engine out twice in last week, yesterday powered up fine and stayed on plane. Today the same when I first went out in the morning. Coming in today it will come up on plane and run at 6000 rpm for about 20 seconds and powers down to 3000 rpm, will not power back up on plane? What could be wrong, no new fuel bought for last week or so, motor ran fine until today coming back from fishing.","That's funny you ask about the primer bulb, the one on my 150 Yamaha will not pump up to where it gets solid? I have a 9.9 kicker on it and the primer bulb gets hard when you squeeze it. Another Idea I thought of to eliminate fuel is to hook the engine up to a 7 gallon portable tank I have and see if it will run normally. I try to keep the fuel tank as full as possible on this boat and its down to a 1/4 tank, if there is water in the fuel with the tank that low could it be pumping more water to the engine or does the water fuel separator prevent that?","That's funny you ask about the primer bulb, the one on my 150 Yamaha will not pump up to where it gets solid? I have a 9.9 kicker on it and the primer bulb gets hard when you squeeze it. Another Idea I thought of to eliminate fuel is to hook the engine up to a 7 gallon portable tank I have and see if it will run normally. I try to keep the fuel tank as full as possible on this boat and its down to a 1/4 tank, if there is water in the fuel with the tank that low could it be pumping more water to the engine or does the water fuel separator prevent that?",Correction to last post. It does have a choke solenoid. +"Engine was going full throttle completely fine till semi-concering sounds, slow down to a crawl then unable to speed back up past say 1/3 of previous top speed, manual throttle works fine in nuetral and gives high revs, however when in forward the engine does not achieve anywhere near as high revs and goes at a fraction of what was previously full throttle. + +Engine was serviced less than 50 miles ago. + +Greatly appreciate any help and will try respond ASAP to any questions, + +Cheers","Rpms in neutral are of no value here, just fyi. What does ""serviced"" mean exactly?...Pull carbs and jets? If not, that's where I'd start.","Rpms in neutral are of no value here, just fyi. What does ""serviced"" mean exactly?...Pull carbs and jets? If not, that's where I'd start.",the older i get the more stable i want the boat...how many years did you say since you used the boat? +"Picked up a Blazer Bay with a 200 yamaha that seemed to run well except for a low speed miss, and low water pressure. Had a tech replace the impeller and put a set of plugs in it. Runs fine but at low idle in gear, it now has a odd clunking almost like loose gears type sound at low speed. Anybody have an idea what this could be?","Reply w/model for more accurate suggestions. Until then dunno if this motor is 2/4 stroke, regarding idle. Clunking is never good no matter the model. Where are you hearing this and when, in gear or idle? Fine details matter","Reply w/model for more accurate suggestions. Until then dunno if this motor is 2/4 stroke, regarding idle. Clunking is never good no matter the model. Where are you hearing this and when, in gear or idle? Fine details matter",Or an air leak in hoses or pick-up tube inside your tank. +"Picked up a Blazer Bay with a 200 yamaha that seemed to run well except for a low speed miss, and low water pressure. Had a tech replace the impeller and put a set of plugs in it. Runs fine but at low idle in gear, it now has a odd clunking almost like loose gears type sound at low speed. Anybody have an idea what this could be?","2006 200hp HPDI. 2 stroke, at low idle in gear. Sounds like its coming from the transmission area. Could it be the drive shaft bushing about half way down the center unit? Didn't start until tech pulled lower unit to replace impeller.","2006 200hp HPDI. 2 stroke, at low idle in gear. Sounds like its coming from the transmission area. Could it be the drive shaft bushing about half way down the center unit? Didn't start until tech pulled lower unit to replace impeller.",i would set the engine height so that the cavitation plate is level with the bottom of the boat. +"2008 F4, I've owned it since 2013. Well-maintained, I do work myself including total carburetor disassembly, cleaning, inspection, etc. every winter. + +I removed the metal cap/welch plug over the mixture adjustment screw so I can fine-tune the adjustment. Before launching boat the week of Memorial Day, I dialed in the idle speed and mixture using a tach. and she was running super. + +Ran perfect first few times I used it. + +Then one day I fired it up, pushed the choke knob in halfway as usual, and she wanted to stall. I pushed the choke all the way in and she recovered but still sounded stumbly. I removed the cowling and she came back to life. I tried leaning in the mixture needle some (I'm 1-1/4 turns out from lightly seated at this point, factory is 1-7/8), but something is way off. + +Is she starving for air? Why would having the cowling on or off make that much difference? I've always set the idle speed/mixture with the cowling off, then replaced the cowling, and it never seemed to make much difference. I inspected the cowling and the vents at the top aren't clogged. + +Any thoughts on why this is happening? Thanks.",Cowling has been in use for 10 years.-----Therefor nothing wrong with the cowling / air inlet.,Cowling has been in use for 10 years.-----Therefor nothing wrong with the cowling / air inlet.,anyone w/ advice +"2008 F4, I've owned it since 2013. Well-maintained, I do work myself including total carburetor disassembly, cleaning, inspection, etc. every winter. + +I removed the metal cap/welch plug over the mixture adjustment screw so I can fine-tune the adjustment. Before launching boat the week of Memorial Day, I dialed in the idle speed and mixture using a tach. and she was running super. + +Ran perfect first few times I used it. + +Then one day I fired it up, pushed the choke knob in halfway as usual, and she wanted to stall. I pushed the choke all the way in and she recovered but still sounded stumbly. I removed the cowling and she came back to life. I tried leaning in the mixture needle some (I'm 1-1/4 turns out from lightly seated at this point, factory is 1-7/8), but something is way off. + +Is she starving for air? Why would having the cowling on or off make that much difference? I've always set the idle speed/mixture with the cowling off, then replaced the cowling, and it never seemed to make much difference. I inspected the cowling and the vents at the top aren't clogged. + +Any thoughts on why this is happening? Thanks.",Exhaust gas somehow getting in there maybe? I'm looking at the parts diagram trying to figure out where the leak could be...,Exhaust gas somehow getting in there maybe? I'm looking at the parts diagram trying to figure out where the leak could be...,"I had a similar problem with a 225 4 stroke(2005). It was fuel injectors, and dealer replaced them all. Now getting 5800 RPMs but sometimes won't WOT. I'm running 3 225s. 480 hours. VST and rail pressure were checked by dealer's best mechanic for 40 hours of work until back fire was eliminated. Imagine the bill I had?" +"2008 F4, I've owned it since 2013. Well-maintained, I do work myself including total carburetor disassembly, cleaning, inspection, etc. every winter. + +I removed the metal cap/welch plug over the mixture adjustment screw so I can fine-tune the adjustment. Before launching boat the week of Memorial Day, I dialed in the idle speed and mixture using a tach. and she was running super. + +Ran perfect first few times I used it. + +Then one day I fired it up, pushed the choke knob in halfway as usual, and she wanted to stall. I pushed the choke all the way in and she recovered but still sounded stumbly. I removed the cowling and she came back to life. I tried leaning in the mixture needle some (I'm 1-1/4 turns out from lightly seated at this point, factory is 1-7/8), but something is way off. + +Is she starving for air? Why would having the cowling on or off make that much difference? I've always set the idle speed/mixture with the cowling off, then replaced the cowling, and it never seemed to make much difference. I inspected the cowling and the vents at the top aren't clogged. + +Any thoughts on why this is happening? Thanks.",Start motor.-----Squirt some oil into the carburetor.-----The smoke may make it easier to find an exhaust leak !,Start motor.-----Squirt some oil into the carburetor.-----The smoke may make it easier to find an exhaust leak !,time to do a bit of trouble shooting...may also want to post the question on the Mercury Outboard section... +"2008 F4, I've owned it since 2013. Well-maintained, I do work myself including total carburetor disassembly, cleaning, inspection, etc. every winter. + +I removed the metal cap/welch plug over the mixture adjustment screw so I can fine-tune the adjustment. Before launching boat the week of Memorial Day, I dialed in the idle speed and mixture using a tach. and she was running super. + +Ran perfect first few times I used it. + +Then one day I fired it up, pushed the choke knob in halfway as usual, and she wanted to stall. I pushed the choke all the way in and she recovered but still sounded stumbly. I removed the cowling and she came back to life. I tried leaning in the mixture needle some (I'm 1-1/4 turns out from lightly seated at this point, factory is 1-7/8), but something is way off. + +Is she starving for air? Why would having the cowling on or off make that much difference? I've always set the idle speed/mixture with the cowling off, then replaced the cowling, and it never seemed to make much difference. I inspected the cowling and the vents at the top aren't clogged. + +Any thoughts on why this is happening? Thanks.","Good idea, I'll try that. For some reason I can't quite envision how the exhaust gas is routed from the combustion chamber down to the exhaust port in the lower unit and the port just a bit below the head. Which seals are the possible culprits?","Good idea, I'll try that. For some reason I can't quite envision how the exhaust gas is routed from the combustion chamber down to the exhaust port in the lower unit and the port just a bit below the head. Which seals are the possible culprits?",Baton Rouge +"2008 F4, I've owned it since 2013. Well-maintained, I do work myself including total carburetor disassembly, cleaning, inspection, etc. every winter. + +I removed the metal cap/welch plug over the mixture adjustment screw so I can fine-tune the adjustment. Before launching boat the week of Memorial Day, I dialed in the idle speed and mixture using a tach. and she was running super. + +Ran perfect first few times I used it. + +Then one day I fired it up, pushed the choke knob in halfway as usual, and she wanted to stall. I pushed the choke all the way in and she recovered but still sounded stumbly. I removed the cowling and she came back to life. I tried leaning in the mixture needle some (I'm 1-1/4 turns out from lightly seated at this point, factory is 1-7/8), but something is way off. + +Is she starving for air? Why would having the cowling on or off make that much difference? I've always set the idle speed/mixture with the cowling off, then replaced the cowling, and it never seemed to make much difference. I inspected the cowling and the vents at the top aren't clogged. + +Any thoughts on why this is happening? Thanks.",Do your test first.-----I do not believe there is an exhaust leak.-----But I am not there to do any trouble shooting.----I think there might be a simple fix for this.,Do your test first.-----I do not believe there is an exhaust leak.-----But I am not there to do any trouble shooting.----I think there might be a simple fix for this.,"Thanks for the reply. I believe I located the problem. the key switch for the ignition is worn, so when the engine fires you let go of the key and it's going slightly past the start position. Finally something I can fix myself" +"2008 F4, I've owned it since 2013. Well-maintained, I do work myself including total carburetor disassembly, cleaning, inspection, etc. every winter. + +I removed the metal cap/welch plug over the mixture adjustment screw so I can fine-tune the adjustment. Before launching boat the week of Memorial Day, I dialed in the idle speed and mixture using a tach. and she was running super. + +Ran perfect first few times I used it. + +Then one day I fired it up, pushed the choke knob in halfway as usual, and she wanted to stall. I pushed the choke all the way in and she recovered but still sounded stumbly. I removed the cowling and she came back to life. I tried leaning in the mixture needle some (I'm 1-1/4 turns out from lightly seated at this point, factory is 1-7/8), but something is way off. + +Is she starving for air? Why would having the cowling on or off make that much difference? I've always set the idle speed/mixture with the cowling off, then replaced the cowling, and it never seemed to make much difference. I inspected the cowling and the vents at the top aren't clogged. + +Any thoughts on why this is happening? Thanks.",what else were you thinking might be causing this?,what else were you thinking might be causing this?,"What does that have to do with the charging system for the T9.9? + +Are both motors being started and run on the same battery? There are switches that can be used so that the battery runs either motor individually." +"2008 F4, I've owned it since 2013. Well-maintained, I do work myself including total carburetor disassembly, cleaning, inspection, etc. every winter. + +I removed the metal cap/welch plug over the mixture adjustment screw so I can fine-tune the adjustment. Before launching boat the week of Memorial Day, I dialed in the idle speed and mixture using a tach. and she was running super. + +Ran perfect first few times I used it. + +Then one day I fired it up, pushed the choke knob in halfway as usual, and she wanted to stall. I pushed the choke all the way in and she recovered but still sounded stumbly. I removed the cowling and she came back to life. I tried leaning in the mixture needle some (I'm 1-1/4 turns out from lightly seated at this point, factory is 1-7/8), but something is way off. + +Is she starving for air? Why would having the cowling on or off make that much difference? I've always set the idle speed/mixture with the cowling off, then replaced the cowling, and it never seemed to make much difference. I inspected the cowling and the vents at the top aren't clogged. + +Any thoughts on why this is happening? Thanks.","Just talked to a local Yamaha mechanic, he thought more likely it was leaking carburetor fuel bowl. Possible I suppose, but I just rebuilt that carb. this spring and put in a new float, needle valve, adjusted everything to spec., etc.","Just talked to a local Yamaha mechanic, he thought more likely it was leaking carburetor fuel bowl. Possible I suppose, but I just rebuilt that carb. this spring and put in a new float, needle valve, adjusted everything to spec., etc.","Sarrre said: + + + + Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. There are two washers. That's why I don't understand why it is so much play for the lever! + +Click to expand... + + +Admittedly I'm not familiar with how that lever functions. But if all parts are where they should be then perhaps the lever is supposed to have a lil play. What makes you sure the clicking of the lever moving up and down is the clicking you hear when engine is running?" +"2008 F4, I've owned it since 2013. Well-maintained, I do work myself including total carburetor disassembly, cleaning, inspection, etc. every winter. + +I removed the metal cap/welch plug over the mixture adjustment screw so I can fine-tune the adjustment. Before launching boat the week of Memorial Day, I dialed in the idle speed and mixture using a tach. and she was running super. + +Ran perfect first few times I used it. + +Then one day I fired it up, pushed the choke knob in halfway as usual, and she wanted to stall. I pushed the choke all the way in and she recovered but still sounded stumbly. I removed the cowling and she came back to life. I tried leaning in the mixture needle some (I'm 1-1/4 turns out from lightly seated at this point, factory is 1-7/8), but something is way off. + +Is she starving for air? Why would having the cowling on or off make that much difference? I've always set the idle speed/mixture with the cowling off, then replaced the cowling, and it never seemed to make much difference. I inspected the cowling and the vents at the top aren't clogged. + +Any thoughts on why this is happening? Thanks.","I finally had a chance to bring the motor to my shop and have a look I pulled the carb. and saw this: + + + + + + + +The stuff on the throttle plate was a brown/red sticky goo. The stuff in the bottom of the fuel bowl was same color, but more like pieces of grit. Oxidized gasoline? + +I disassembled and cleaned this carb before launching around Memorial Day. It was clean as a whistle. Ran great the first few times I used the motor, then one day it didn't/ + +Fuel was purchased around Memorial Day and I added Yamaha fuel stabilizer. + +Fuel filter is new. Water separator is new. Fuel lines have all been replaced in the past 3-4 years. + +What's going on here? + +Thanks.","I finally had a chance to bring the motor to my shop and have a look I pulled the carb. and saw this: + + + + + + + +The stuff on the throttle plate was a brown/red sticky goo. The stuff in the bottom of the fuel bowl was same color, but more like pieces of grit. Oxidized gasoline? + +I disassembled and cleaned this carb before launching around Memorial Day. It was clean as a whistle. Ran great the first few times I used the motor, then one day it didn't/ + +Fuel was purchased around Memorial Day and I added Yamaha fuel stabilizer. + +Fuel filter is new. Water separator is new. Fuel lines have all been replaced in the past 3-4 years. + +What's going on here? + +Thanks.",Thanks for sharing your solution. Please do share how you diagnosed and discovered those defective wires so others here don't have to go through what I recomended. +"2008 F4, I've owned it since 2013. Well-maintained, I do work myself including total carburetor disassembly, cleaning, inspection, etc. every winter. + +I removed the metal cap/welch plug over the mixture adjustment screw so I can fine-tune the adjustment. Before launching boat the week of Memorial Day, I dialed in the idle speed and mixture using a tach. and she was running super. + +Ran perfect first few times I used it. + +Then one day I fired it up, pushed the choke knob in halfway as usual, and she wanted to stall. I pushed the choke all the way in and she recovered but still sounded stumbly. I removed the cowling and she came back to life. I tried leaning in the mixture needle some (I'm 1-1/4 turns out from lightly seated at this point, factory is 1-7/8), but something is way off. + +Is she starving for air? Why would having the cowling on or off make that much difference? I've always set the idle speed/mixture with the cowling off, then replaced the cowling, and it never seemed to make much difference. I inspected the cowling and the vents at the top aren't clogged. + +Any thoughts on why this is happening? Thanks.","So I put the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner, reassembled, checked the float adjustment against spec.; then I decided to try some ethanol-free gas (only thing available here is aviation gas, 100LL). Ran great on the bench with cowling off. But as soon as I put the cowling back on it wanted to stall. Even if I just placed the cowling over the motor without latching it shut tight. + +Exhaust leak then?","So I put the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner, reassembled, checked the float adjustment against spec.; then I decided to try some ethanol-free gas (only thing available here is aviation gas, 100LL). Ran great on the bench with cowling off. But as soon as I put the cowling back on it wanted to stall. Even if I just placed the cowling over the motor without latching it shut tight. + +Exhaust leak then?","I paint, spread sand. When the paint is dry I remove excess sand and paint again to seal in sand." +yamaha runs great but goes really slow only in the reverse gear. when given rpms no real change. is this normal? maybe a safety thing?,"Mmm, 1st time hearing this. Reply with yr/model. Is throttle lever free/clear when putting into reverse or do you feel resistance?","Mmm, 1st time hearing this. Reply with yr/model. Is throttle lever free/clear when putting into reverse or do you feel resistance?","mr steve wayne 575 said: + + + + I thought this would be simple. +Can someone help me with a simple new switch key. I have manual By Clymer, B740, and also Mercury Mercruiser #14 Service Manual, and #31 Mercruiser manual, and the Sea Ray Boat manual. I cannot find my electrical system matching my wire colors in any of them. + + My project Boat is 1984 Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 V8, 5.7 ltr. +My ignition switch has a Red wire, Purple wire and a Yellow and Red STRIPE wire. I cannot find a wiring diagram to know what the wires go to. My new 4 prong ignition switch I bought from my boat shop. The prongs has stamped B (battery),A (accessory),I (ignition),S (solenoid) stamped on it. + Can anyone tell me how to wire this new switch key up? +Thanks +Mr Steve Wayne 575 + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,...... The red wire goes to the Batt terminal,..... +The purple wire goes to the Ign. terminal,..... +The yellow/ red wire goes to the Start terminal,.... +'n it appears you don't have an Acc. circuit,...." +yamaha runs great but goes really slow only in the reverse gear. when given rpms no real change. is this normal? maybe a safety thing?,"Lever is free and engages fine, its a 2017 yamaha 4 stroke outboard, i have to pull the lever almost all the way down in order for the boat to move very slow in reverse","Lever is free and engages fine, its a 2017 yamaha 4 stroke outboard, i have to pull the lever almost all the way down in order for the boat to move very slow in reverse","Re: Yamaha F115 Two Stroke built year 1998 + + + +Docksidemarineservices said: + + + +I give up![/QUOTE] + +Haha please do ... + +Click to expand..." +yamaha runs great but goes really slow only in the reverse gear. when given rpms no real change. is this normal? maybe a safety thing?,"If the question relates to the apparent lack of effectiveness when the motor is in reverse, that is completely normal. The propeller is designed so as to be most efficient when in forward. When in reverse, the thrust produced can seem to be extremely lacking. + +If someone does a lot of backing up there are propellers designed so that reverse thrust efficiency is improved. Although at the expense of forward thrust.","If the question relates to the apparent lack of effectiveness when the motor is in reverse, that is completely normal. The propeller is designed so as to be most efficient when in forward. When in reverse, the thrust produced can seem to be extremely lacking. + +If someone does a lot of backing up there are propellers designed so that reverse thrust efficiency is improved. Although at the expense of forward thrust.","As Johnny said - A separate fuel water separator can'thurt (I have one on my boat) but doesn't that engine also have a fuel waterseparator under the cowling that holds the small fuel filter? There should be ared ring in the bottom of that housing that will rise up if water has beentrapped in the bottom of that filter. If you're running common ethanol-blendedgasoline sold at 99% of gas stations that fuel can absorb ALOT of water beforephase separation occures. Remember - old red Sta-bil was basically ethanolbecause ethanol bonds with water molecules and can be burned away but evenbonded to ethanol it robs power when being burned. It's when all the ethanol hasbonded with all the water it can hold that you get phase separation and findwater/mess in the bottom of the fuel tank and fuel/water seperator. I've NEVER found water in my seperate fuel/water seperator or the filter under the engine cowling. + +Johnny also commented on the bottom - do you leave this boat in the water saltor fresh? Growth on the bottom can really slow a boat down and if it's saltwater, barnacles growing on the borrom and the prop can render a boat unable to reach plane inno time... In a month you'd think you were pulling 5 concrete blocks behind the boat. Check the fuel and filter (although I doubt you'll find signs of waterin the fuel). Check the prop for barnacles/dings/dents. If you're using aportable fuel tank and see no signs of water I'd dump the gas into your automobiletank and burn it there. Refill with fresh gas and preferably 100% gas (noethanol) if you have a station or marina nearby that sells it. You can keeprunning Sea Foam at 2x dose until it's gone and then switch to marine greenSta-bil and add it to the gas ALL THE TIME (not just for storage). The Sea Foamwill clean out a great deal but it does take time and running it at highercleaning dose in my opinion. + +Do let us know what you find as the learning never stops for us who like tosteer clear of the Yamaha service mafia." +yamaha runs great but goes really slow only in the reverse gear. when given rpms no real change. is this normal? maybe a safety thing?,"what got me to noticed is the boat was not like that before, i had to be careful when backing up because of the thrust, but now i almost have to lower the lever all the way down in order for the boat to move very slow in reverse. So i am not sure if this is normal, but what i can tell you, it was not like that before.","what got me to noticed is the boat was not like that before, i had to be careful when backing up because of the thrust, but now i almost have to lower the lever all the way down in order for the boat to move very slow in reverse. So i am not sure if this is normal, but what i can tell you, it was not like that before.",I have setup a few boats now for extended use on battery power & inverters vs running a genset. The thing people often forget is how important the recharge side of the power budget is. +yamaha runs great but goes really slow only in the reverse gear. when given rpms no real change. is this normal? maybe a safety thing?,What lever?,What lever?,Here is a video of the cold start and stall. Does it sound odd to anyone? +yamaha runs great but goes really slow only in the reverse gear. when given rpms no real change. is this normal? maybe a safety thing?,"the shift lever at the helm, the one you accelerate with","the shift lever at the helm, the one you accelerate with",a high idle can be caused by loose carb mountings....cant hurt to check.... +yamaha runs great but goes really slow only in the reverse gear. when given rpms no real change. is this normal? maybe a safety thing?,I would check the throttle and shift cable connections at both the control box end and the engine.,I would check the throttle and shift cable connections at both the control box end and the engine.,"Put a few revs on means, push the button in the middle of binnacle, this allows the motor to be revved but not in gear! So what I mean is push that button, move the binnacle forward to put revs on motor then it will start, hope that's clear??" +"I have 2 problems with my 300 first when I start the motor up and take off sometimes it dont want to get the RPM's up it just has no power like the timeing is not advancing, I am pretty sure it is a timing advance problem, so what I do and seems to temp fix the problem is turn motor off and work the throtle handle full foward and full reverse most of the time this will get the motor to run normally sometimes I have to do this a few times for it to work + +second problem is the motor seems to not run steady at running RPM's , I cruse at 3400 to 4200 RPM's most of the time, I changes all fuel filters and water separator and even tuned up with new plugs and same problem still present +thanks for reading",This is an HPDI Yamaha. Chances are you need to have the fuel injection system including the HP pump serviced by a qualified Tech.,This is an HPDI Yamaha. Chances are you need to have the fuel injection system including the HP pump serviced by a qualified Tech.,"ClassicAQ, thank you for your review of my frustration. Carburetors was cleaned (but not rebuild) two years ago. I didn't think of that because I only took the boat out once last summer. Iwill look into that. Thanks." +"I have 2 problems with my 300 first when I start the motor up and take off sometimes it dont want to get the RPM's up it just has no power like the timeing is not advancing, I am pretty sure it is a timing advance problem, so what I do and seems to temp fix the problem is turn motor off and work the throtle handle full foward and full reverse most of the time this will get the motor to run normally sometimes I have to do this a few times for it to work + +second problem is the motor seems to not run steady at running RPM's , I cruse at 3400 to 4200 RPM's most of the time, I changes all fuel filters and water separator and even tuned up with new plugs and same problem still present +thanks for reading",looks like a add to me thanks for nothing,looks like a add to me thanks for nothing,"ourgang said: + + + + ... P.S. I rang out the sw. and it's good.... + +Click to expand... + + +If you did that test with a multimeter on the ohms scale, you didn't prove out anything....you need to test the switch with much higher current (amps, not milliamps) to verify it. + +the purple wire getting 'hot' means a bad connection or a bad wire..." +"I have 2 problems with my 300 first when I start the motor up and take off sometimes it dont want to get the RPM's up it just has no power like the timeing is not advancing, I am pretty sure it is a timing advance problem, so what I do and seems to temp fix the problem is turn motor off and work the throtle handle full foward and full reverse most of the time this will get the motor to run normally sometimes I have to do this a few times for it to work + +second problem is the motor seems to not run steady at running RPM's , I cruse at 3400 to 4200 RPM's most of the time, I changes all fuel filters and water separator and even tuned up with new plugs and same problem still present +thanks for reading","Ok I have the problem cured +on the linkage for the shif cables on the starboard side of the motor there are 3 little switches right at the end of where the cable slides and 1 of the switches went bad it was staying stuck in 1 position so I replaced that switch and poof problem cured +part number was [h=1]SWITCH ASSEMBLY[/h][h=2]60V-8259F-00-00[/h] +you can find it on boats.net its listed in control parts","Ok I have the problem cured +on the linkage for the shif cables on the starboard side of the motor there are 3 little switches right at the end of where the cable slides and 1 of the switches went bad it was staying stuck in 1 position so I replaced that switch and poof problem cured +part number was [h=1]SWITCH ASSEMBLY[/h][h=2]60V-8259F-00-00[/h] +you can find it on boats.net its listed in control parts",i am running the same motor....exactly where was the wire?.....tyty +"Ok, so my engine has been idling high for a few weeks and I may have found the culprit. On the rear of the engine, a 2009 Yamaha 225, there is a small triangle box towards the top of the engine that looks like it should have 2 vacuum hoses running to it. There is one hose that runs from the IAC valve to the triangle box, and then there is another hose nipple that is vacant. Can anyone tell me if there is supposed to be a second hose running to that triangle box and if so, where does it go? Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks",I had a 2002 225 4 stroke that idled high and it was weak return springs on the starbord throttle plate bank,I had a 2002 225 4 stroke that idled high and it was weak return springs on the starbord throttle plate bank,A 140 I/O will have an Alpha Drive. The year will determine if it is a Generation two or not. Usually a 3.0 ltr has a 1.98:1 ratio. +"Need help !! 04 twin 300’s hpdi stall’s when put into gear. I disconnected the Yamaha 60V-8259F-00-00 SWITCH ASSEMBLEY and they run flawless, so I thought maybe the switch went bad. I called my local Yamaha dealer and got two I replaced both this afternoon. Problem is still occurring after new switches installed. If I un plug them motors run fine! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced","you may be missing the 3rd switch my 300 has 3 switches 1 inside and 1 outside but also 1 on the bottom of the cable slide +took me a good 3 hrs to replace just 1 you have a lot of wireing to get outta the way +I haven not taken it out for a shakedown cruise yet so I dont know if my problem is fixed but the switch I replaced was bad","you may be missing the 3rd switch my 300 has 3 switches 1 inside and 1 outside but also 1 on the bottom of the cable slide +took me a good 3 hrs to replace just 1 you have a lot of wireing to get outta the way +I haven not taken it out for a shakedown cruise yet so I dont know if my problem is fixed but the switch I replaced was bad",I've had relays before that would click but still be bad. it may have burned up on the load side of the relay instead of the source side. that would explain the slow movement then quitting all together. as long as the source side isn't burned up and has power it will click when it tries to operate like normal but when it does there is nothing there to make contact with. hope this helps +"Good day. My 1985 90HP Yamaha has these gaps on the cylinder block. Is there a way to fill them to ensure the gasket seals properly? Thanks In advance! Happy boating See link for photo below + +https://imgur.com/51IEqHI","Yes, with a new engine. These engines just rot away over time.","Yes, with a new engine. These engines just rot away over time.","In this case, I would talk to the dealer you bought it from and tell them they should fix it for free. The hose itself is probably $10 and it would take them probably 20-30 minutes. I would request they do it for free is because hose shouldn't be damaged after only 72 hours. I can't tell exactly what's wrong from the picture, but I would guess it wasn't installed/positioned properly to begin with.. and the dealer is supposed to check all that stuff before delivering it to you. For reference, my 2011 F50 has about 360 hours and that hose isn't frayed at all. + +If they don't fix it for free, it's a relatively easy job to do yourself. However, you have to drop the lower unit so you can disconnect that end of the hose. The other end should be reachable without having to remove anything, but dropping the lower unit does require a socket wrench and probably a buddy to help hold it up when you take the bolts off. + +If you plan on doing the basic maintenance yourself going forward, then dropping the lower unit is something you'll want to learn how to do anyway. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to drop the lower unit on Yamahas (just search for something like ""yamaha impeller change""). I would just watch a couple and decide if you're comfortable doing it. The worst thing that generally happens when people do it the first time is the shift shaft gets misaligned and it won't go into forward or reverse gear. But that's easily fixed by manually turning the shaft and reinstalling it. + +The other thing is, how long can you stand the boat being out of the water? The dealer might agree to fix it for free, but you might be 30th in line as far as other jobs they're working on.. so it might take a few weeks before you get it back." +"Good day. My 1985 90HP Yamaha has these gaps on the cylinder block. Is there a way to fill them to ensure the gasket seals properly? Thanks In advance! Happy boating See link for photo below + +https://imgur.com/51IEqHI","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Yes, with a new engine. These engines just rot away over time. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks. Do you think its repairable or not?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Yes, with a new engine. These engines just rot away over time. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks. Do you think its repairable or not?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + V4 Yam's are 400lbs....so no, there isn't a V6 under 400lbs, let alone 200lbs. + +Click to expand... + +Are you including the propeller weight, etc? + +I am talking about the engine only (block, heads, internals)." +"Good day. My 1985 90HP Yamaha has these gaps on the cylinder block. Is there a way to fill them to ensure the gasket seals properly? Thanks In advance! Happy boating See link for photo below + +https://imgur.com/51IEqHI",Put head on with a new gasket and run it another 20 years.,Put head on with a new gasket and run it another 20 years.,"Dockside - Very good point - I forgot about that. + +SO, DRSeth - test for continuity between ground prong on the plug and the neutral prong. If all show continuity, you may have a common ground and neutral, and that needs to be changed, as Dockside said." +"Good day. My 1985 90HP Yamaha has these gaps on the cylinder block. Is there a way to fill them to ensure the gasket seals properly? Thanks In advance! Happy boating See link for photo below + +https://imgur.com/51IEqHI","Richie007 said: + + + + Thanks. Do you think its repairable or not? + +Click to expand... + + +My answer pretty much covers it...New engine..... If you get it to seal up the cylinder head will have a hole in it shortly.","Richie007 said: + + + + Thanks. Do you think its repairable or not? + +Click to expand... + + +My answer pretty much covers it...New engine..... If you get it to seal up the cylinder head will have a hole in it shortly.","Maybe its not fuel, maybe it's electrical because it doesn't bog down all the time. What tests should I do to see if it's electrical? + + I don't want to burn a piston!!!" +"Good day. My 1985 90HP Yamaha has these gaps on the cylinder block. Is there a way to fill them to ensure the gasket seals properly? Thanks In advance! Happy boating See link for photo below + +https://imgur.com/51IEqHI","racerone said: + + + + Put head on with a new gasket and run it another 20 years. + +Click to expand... + + Will try that. Thanks","racerone said: + + + + Put head on with a new gasket and run it another 20 years. + +Click to expand... + + Will try that. Thanks",I advise that you post your question on the Johnson/Evinrude forum on this site. +"Good day. My 1985 90HP Yamaha has these gaps on the cylinder block. Is there a way to fill them to ensure the gasket seals properly? Thanks In advance! Happy boating See link for photo below + +https://imgur.com/51IEqHI","Richie007 said: + + + + Will try that. Thanks + +Click to expand... + +Easiest way out is not the correct way.","Richie007 said: + + + + Will try that. Thanks + +Click to expand... + +Easiest way out is not the correct way.","YES. +ignition, flywheel lower unit wil fit, +you acan fit 30 hp powerhead on 25hp base but also you will need upper cowling and starter handle sadle is different. +30 hp powerhead is higher then 25hp" +"Good day. My 1985 90HP Yamaha has these gaps on the cylinder block. Is there a way to fill them to ensure the gasket seals properly? Thanks In advance! Happy boating See link for photo below + +https://imgur.com/51IEqHI","The metal ring will seal on the cast iron.----Then there are other ways to repair that.-----Machining a ring and shrinking it on.-----Or lumiweld , did a 55 HP Johnson 35 years ago using that material.","The metal ring will seal on the cast iron.----Then there are other ways to repair that.-----Machining a ring and shrinking it on.-----Or lumiweld , did a 55 HP Johnson 35 years ago using that material.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Yes, a bad check valve will cause oil to leak out of the contained oil/fuel system. + +Let's just say your mechanic's theory of the engine's age being the reason it requires more oil than Yamaha recommends, and because more oil has been added, this is the reason the engine is leaking oil. My question is, would this extra oil to fuel ratio result in oil leaking OUT of the oil/fuel system and onto the outer shell of mid section? I guess what I'm saying is you could add oil at a ratio of 10:1 and you still shouldn't see oil outside of the oil/fuel system...a dark smokey exhaust, yeah sure. + +The theory of adding extra oil to the fuel for 2 strokes is just that, a theory. But it's one I understand, and I don't believe adding a little extra oil to these older engines could hurt at all. Be that as it may, adding the extra oil shouldn't result in an oil leak. Something to think about. + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah I understand what you are saying, I’m just trying to cover all bases at this point. I’m going to put new clamps on any of the hoses coming from and going to the oil tank and probably replace the three check valves. Then I’ll go from there. Thank you for your help" +"Hello everyone! + + +I've got a 97 150hp 2-stroke (S150TXRV) that I've owned since 2004, and it has always been used in a salt-water environment. I personally rebuilt it in 2006 after a 1/8 - 1/4 in hole formed in the block and leaked water on the lower starboard rod-crank bearing, and over time it disintegrated. At the time of rebuild I had a marine mechanic weld the hole, and another area which I believe was the center area of the exhaust on the block mating surface to exhaust cover. I also removed all corrosion and painted the internal surfaces with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. Whether that was a good decision or not I don't know but the motor has lasted this long (400 hours & 13 years since rebuild). All the details of that rebuild are here for anyone interested: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat/ABII/EngineFailureJan2006/default.htm + + +There's been a variety of maintenance in between. + + +Fast forward to present: I am out boating last Saturday, and the motor ran good until I noticed it would no longer keep and idle and keep huffing and puffing (missing). +I get home, did some troubleshooting, and ended up pulling the port head, and a 3/16 hole was present in the top port head. Wow - I didn't know that could happen: +Picture1: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...osion/HoleInPortHead_20190526_142849_Port.jpg +Picture2: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...leInPortHeadUpClose_20190526_142910_Port.jpg + + +I pulled the water jacket off the port head and it was just a mess inside. +Picture3: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...InPortHeadOtherSide_20190527_173316_Port.jpg +Picture4: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...rtHeadAndWaterJacket_20190527_173051_Port.jpg + + +I had pulled the port head a couple times before to clean the passages (just the head-to-block side; shame on me for never pulling the waterjacket in 13 years since the rebuild) due to overheating on the port side. I pulled the starboard head and associated water jacket and it was a mess in there also. + + +Here's the part I have a question about: I noticed some corrosion near and into the mating surface on the upper part of the block: +Picture5: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat/ABII/20190500_PortHeadHoleAndBlockCorrosion/PortBlockMatingSurfaceCorrosion_20190527_191840_Port.jpg +Picture6: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...ockMatingSurfaceCorrosion_20190527_191825.jpg + + +I obviously need to fill in these areas. I know that I can likely have a welder come out to my location (boat is on a lift and I do not have a trailer) which will be probably expensive in labor. I also heard that aluminum welding is difficult. I don't know anything about welding. Is a viable alternative to welding to use some sort of epoxy to fill these areas and smooth out by sanding? + + +I don't know how much life I have left in this block. I hope it is alot. I am already planning to buy NEW heads at around $280 each, as there are a bunch of used ones on ebay around $100 each but they all have waterjackets on them, and I could be buying the same corroded thing. I want to do a good repair but I also don't want to throw a ton of money into it only to discover 6 months down the road the block is leaking again inside or etc. which would require a repair/build of the powerhead again. + + +Is there a special epoxy that can be used? I've looked at: +Loctite Metal/Concrete Epoxy (apparently not for constantly wet areas) +http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_metal_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Metal-Concrete.htm +and +JB Weld - Marine Weld +https://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives/products/marineweld-twin-tube + + +What do you all suggest - is epoxy a viable solution that will last a few or more years? + + +Thank you much for helping me get started on my repair. + + +Thank you much.","I have a correction to make to the above post. The link for Picture 5 is incorrect and duplicated with Picture 4. +Picture 5 is supposed to be this: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...tingSurfaceCorrosion_20190527_191840_Port.jpg + +Thanks.","I have a correction to make to the above post. The link for Picture 5 is incorrect and duplicated with Picture 4. +Picture 5 is supposed to be this: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...tingSurfaceCorrosion_20190527_191840_Port.jpg + +Thanks.","This symbol to remind you that the engine reached the time to maintenance likes replace the engine oil, fuel filter, gear oil, at 100 hours operated" +"Hello everyone! + + +I've got a 97 150hp 2-stroke (S150TXRV) that I've owned since 2004, and it has always been used in a salt-water environment. I personally rebuilt it in 2006 after a 1/8 - 1/4 in hole formed in the block and leaked water on the lower starboard rod-crank bearing, and over time it disintegrated. At the time of rebuild I had a marine mechanic weld the hole, and another area which I believe was the center area of the exhaust on the block mating surface to exhaust cover. I also removed all corrosion and painted the internal surfaces with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. Whether that was a good decision or not I don't know but the motor has lasted this long (400 hours & 13 years since rebuild). All the details of that rebuild are here for anyone interested: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat/ABII/EngineFailureJan2006/default.htm + + +There's been a variety of maintenance in between. + + +Fast forward to present: I am out boating last Saturday, and the motor ran good until I noticed it would no longer keep and idle and keep huffing and puffing (missing). +I get home, did some troubleshooting, and ended up pulling the port head, and a 3/16 hole was present in the top port head. Wow - I didn't know that could happen: +Picture1: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...osion/HoleInPortHead_20190526_142849_Port.jpg +Picture2: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...leInPortHeadUpClose_20190526_142910_Port.jpg + + +I pulled the water jacket off the port head and it was just a mess inside. +Picture3: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...InPortHeadOtherSide_20190527_173316_Port.jpg +Picture4: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...rtHeadAndWaterJacket_20190527_173051_Port.jpg + + +I had pulled the port head a couple times before to clean the passages (just the head-to-block side; shame on me for never pulling the waterjacket in 13 years since the rebuild) due to overheating on the port side. I pulled the starboard head and associated water jacket and it was a mess in there also. + + +Here's the part I have a question about: I noticed some corrosion near and into the mating surface on the upper part of the block: +Picture5: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat/ABII/20190500_PortHeadHoleAndBlockCorrosion/PortBlockMatingSurfaceCorrosion_20190527_191840_Port.jpg +Picture6: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...ockMatingSurfaceCorrosion_20190527_191825.jpg + + +I obviously need to fill in these areas. I know that I can likely have a welder come out to my location (boat is on a lift and I do not have a trailer) which will be probably expensive in labor. I also heard that aluminum welding is difficult. I don't know anything about welding. Is a viable alternative to welding to use some sort of epoxy to fill these areas and smooth out by sanding? + + +I don't know how much life I have left in this block. I hope it is alot. I am already planning to buy NEW heads at around $280 each, as there are a bunch of used ones on ebay around $100 each but they all have waterjackets on them, and I could be buying the same corroded thing. I want to do a good repair but I also don't want to throw a ton of money into it only to discover 6 months down the road the block is leaking again inside or etc. which would require a repair/build of the powerhead again. + + +Is there a special epoxy that can be used? I've looked at: +Loctite Metal/Concrete Epoxy (apparently not for constantly wet areas) +http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_metal_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Metal-Concrete.htm +and +JB Weld - Marine Weld +https://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives/products/marineweld-twin-tube + + +What do you all suggest - is epoxy a viable solution that will last a few or more years? + + +Thank you much for helping me get started on my repair. + + +Thank you much.",Hi. Did you have any luck with the corrosion on the block. I have simular corrosion on the block .Unsure if I need to try fill it myself or get someone to weld. Thanks In advance Richie,Hi. Did you have any luck with the corrosion on the block. I have simular corrosion on the block .Unsure if I need to try fill it myself or get someone to weld. Thanks In advance Richie,Post your question on the Johnson/Evinrude forum on this site. +"Hello everyone! + + +I've got a 97 150hp 2-stroke (S150TXRV) that I've owned since 2004, and it has always been used in a salt-water environment. I personally rebuilt it in 2006 after a 1/8 - 1/4 in hole formed in the block and leaked water on the lower starboard rod-crank bearing, and over time it disintegrated. At the time of rebuild I had a marine mechanic weld the hole, and another area which I believe was the center area of the exhaust on the block mating surface to exhaust cover. I also removed all corrosion and painted the internal surfaces with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. Whether that was a good decision or not I don't know but the motor has lasted this long (400 hours & 13 years since rebuild). All the details of that rebuild are here for anyone interested: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat/ABII/EngineFailureJan2006/default.htm + + +There's been a variety of maintenance in between. + + +Fast forward to present: I am out boating last Saturday, and the motor ran good until I noticed it would no longer keep and idle and keep huffing and puffing (missing). +I get home, did some troubleshooting, and ended up pulling the port head, and a 3/16 hole was present in the top port head. Wow - I didn't know that could happen: +Picture1: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...osion/HoleInPortHead_20190526_142849_Port.jpg +Picture2: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...leInPortHeadUpClose_20190526_142910_Port.jpg + + +I pulled the water jacket off the port head and it was just a mess inside. +Picture3: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...InPortHeadOtherSide_20190527_173316_Port.jpg +Picture4: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...rtHeadAndWaterJacket_20190527_173051_Port.jpg + + +I had pulled the port head a couple times before to clean the passages (just the head-to-block side; shame on me for never pulling the waterjacket in 13 years since the rebuild) due to overheating on the port side. I pulled the starboard head and associated water jacket and it was a mess in there also. + + +Here's the part I have a question about: I noticed some corrosion near and into the mating surface on the upper part of the block: +Picture5: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat/ABII/20190500_PortHeadHoleAndBlockCorrosion/PortBlockMatingSurfaceCorrosion_20190527_191840_Port.jpg +Picture6: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...ockMatingSurfaceCorrosion_20190527_191825.jpg + + +I obviously need to fill in these areas. I know that I can likely have a welder come out to my location (boat is on a lift and I do not have a trailer) which will be probably expensive in labor. I also heard that aluminum welding is difficult. I don't know anything about welding. Is a viable alternative to welding to use some sort of epoxy to fill these areas and smooth out by sanding? + + +I don't know how much life I have left in this block. I hope it is alot. I am already planning to buy NEW heads at around $280 each, as there are a bunch of used ones on ebay around $100 each but they all have waterjackets on them, and I could be buying the same corroded thing. I want to do a good repair but I also don't want to throw a ton of money into it only to discover 6 months down the road the block is leaking again inside or etc. which would require a repair/build of the powerhead again. + + +Is there a special epoxy that can be used? I've looked at: +Loctite Metal/Concrete Epoxy (apparently not for constantly wet areas) +http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/epxy_metal_s/overview/Loctite-Epoxy-Metal-Concrete.htm +and +JB Weld - Marine Weld +https://www.jbweld.com/collections/epoxy-adhesives/products/marineweld-twin-tube + + +What do you all suggest - is epoxy a viable solution that will last a few or more years? + + +Thank you much for helping me get started on my repair. + + +Thank you much.",@boatguy3450 Hi. Did you have any luck with the corrosion on the block. I have simular corrosion on the block .Unsure if I need to try fill it myself or get someone to weld. Thanks In advance Richie,@boatguy3450 Hi. Did you have any luck with the corrosion on the block. I have simular corrosion on the block .Unsure if I need to try fill it myself or get someone to weld. Thanks In advance Richie,"The first photo almost looks like floatation foam is showing through? I’d find a welder and have it repaired that way. Our neighbors Starcraft got a stress crack that a guy welded up quickly and inexpensively,but does require paint touch up" +"I have an F50 that is locked up at one point of the crank rotation. While rotating the flywheel you can hear and feel metal on metal contacting each other inside the engine crankcase. The flywheel can be rotated by hand approx 300 degrees in each direction to the point where it is locked up. + +The issue started at spring start up. The engine started up and idled fine, the engine was then shut off and now this. The engine oil when checked was way overfilled from a carb leaking into the engine. Have drained all the oil out of the engine at this point. + +I have the head off and the pistons and cylinders look good. I have the lower unit off as well. + +Would anyone happen to have an idea what might have let go inside the engine to cause this? Note that the engine started doing this after it was shut off and didn't happen while it was running. Stumped for theories. + +Appreciate your thought's.","For the benefit of others, here is an update. + +The engine must have had quite a hydraulic lock from the crankcase being filled with fuel because cyl #2 connecting rod is bent so much the piston is not coming to TDC by about 1/4"". The other cyl's don't seem to be effected but I guess I will have to try and find a spec to measure them.","For the benefit of others, here is an update. + +The engine must have had quite a hydraulic lock from the crankcase being filled with fuel because cyl #2 connecting rod is bent so much the piston is not coming to TDC by about 1/4"". The other cyl's don't seem to be effected but I guess I will have to try and find a spec to measure them.","mmather243 said: + + + + This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys? + +Click to expand... + + +Have you been running ethanol blended gas in it? If so that is probably your problem. By choking the engine you were manually feeding more fuel to it through the carb that was probably clogged and couldn't deliver enough fuel without choking it. + +Buy a couple of cans of jet spray carb cleaner (carb cleaner is cheap and the outboard service center is expensive). Pull the carb, take it all apart (everything you can take apart including the little brass fuel jet and fuel bowl taken out & off) and blast that carb cleaner through every orifice you can find. Check the little hole in that brass fuel jet and make sure it is perfectly clean and clear. If it isn't, run a little piece of COPPER wire through it (softer than brass) and clean out any gum the carb cleaner spray couldn't blast away. + +If there is old ethanol blended fuel in your tank get rid of it. How you dispose of it is your own business (have a trash pile that needs burned?) Put fresh fuel in, hook up the fuel line and pump the bulb with someone back by the engine to catch the fuel in a cup as it squirts out from the fuel line that would feed the carb you've pulled and have cleaned. Keep pumping and squirting to get all that old fuel out of the lines. + +Put it all back together and then re-pump the fuel bulb until you get resistance and it is hard as that means the fuel bowl is filled. Then, see if she fires up. + + +An engine is simple... you need air, spark and fuel." +"Cleaned carbs at beginning of season. Boat ran at 5700RPM with 2 people. + +Ran fine for about 30 gallons, then wouldn’t pass 3400rpm. Pulled air cover and saw no fuel from middle carb. + +Removed and cleaned carbs again. Found main jet on middle carb was clogged, probably came from internal fuel lines. Makes sense. + +Put them back together and now it won’t pass 4500RPM. Even with 1 person on board. And fuel consumption is over 10GPH. + +Ive noticed fuel/oil in the carb throats after it sits tilted up. + +I did my best to get carb adjustments back to factory, I.e. 1 - 1 1/2 turns out. + +Does this sound like a carb float issue, or something else?","When you discovered the 1 clogged jet did you at that time pull and clean the other jets? Makes sense that if 1 is clogged so too others cud be. + +If your seeing small amount of oil in carb throat after motor was stored tilted up this isnt too much for concern. Excessive amount indicates one or more of the oil feed tubes has bad one-way valve.","When you discovered the 1 clogged jet did you at that time pull and clean the other jets? Makes sense that if 1 is clogged so too others cud be. + +If your seeing small amount of oil in carb throat after motor was stored tilted up this isnt too much for concern. Excessive amount indicates one or more of the oil feed tubes has bad one-way valve.",please help ta +"Cleaned carbs at beginning of season. Boat ran at 5700RPM with 2 people. + +Ran fine for about 30 gallons, then wouldn’t pass 3400rpm. Pulled air cover and saw no fuel from middle carb. + +Removed and cleaned carbs again. Found main jet on middle carb was clogged, probably came from internal fuel lines. Makes sense. + +Put them back together and now it won’t pass 4500RPM. Even with 1 person on board. And fuel consumption is over 10GPH. + +Ive noticed fuel/oil in the carb throats after it sits tilted up. + +I did my best to get carb adjustments back to factory, I.e. 1 - 1 1/2 turns out. + +Does this sound like a carb float issue, or something else?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + When you discovered the 1 clogged jet did you at that time pull and clean the other jets? Makes sense that if 1 is clogged so too others cud be. + +If your seeing small amount of oil in carb throat after motor was stored tilted up this isnt too much for concern. Excessive amount indicates one or more of the oil feed tubes has bad one-way valve. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, all 3 carbs were pulled and cleaned at that point. I would consider it a small amount of oil in carbs. + +I replaced the fuel pump this afternoon. The old one had a huge hole in the diaphragm. + +It runs MUCH better now. Got right up on plane. 5700RPM wide open throttle. + +But its still not perfect. It will only run at 5700 for a few seconds, before going back down to 5000 or lower. If I let off the throttle for a few seconds I can get it back to 5700. But again, that only lasts a few seconds. Feels like it can’t get fuel fast enough. + +Fuel line is new. Filters are new. Fuel pump is new. Carbs were just cleaned. + +That leaves the tank and the internal fuel lines. The tank is portable. + + +Does this sound like the carb screws are just out of wack? What about a coil pack working intermittently? Light up spark tester shows spark. + +Thanks for the help","ClassicAQ said: + + + + When you discovered the 1 clogged jet did you at that time pull and clean the other jets? Makes sense that if 1 is clogged so too others cud be. + +If your seeing small amount of oil in carb throat after motor was stored tilted up this isnt too much for concern. Excessive amount indicates one or more of the oil feed tubes has bad one-way valve. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, all 3 carbs were pulled and cleaned at that point. I would consider it a small amount of oil in carbs. + +I replaced the fuel pump this afternoon. The old one had a huge hole in the diaphragm. + +It runs MUCH better now. Got right up on plane. 5700RPM wide open throttle. + +But its still not perfect. It will only run at 5700 for a few seconds, before going back down to 5000 or lower. If I let off the throttle for a few seconds I can get it back to 5700. But again, that only lasts a few seconds. Feels like it can’t get fuel fast enough. + +Fuel line is new. Filters are new. Fuel pump is new. Carbs were just cleaned. + +That leaves the tank and the internal fuel lines. The tank is portable. + + +Does this sound like the carb screws are just out of wack? What about a coil pack working intermittently? Light up spark tester shows spark. + +Thanks for the help","The chart is just a quick ref for lead acid. There certainly will be variances for temp, but generally speeking I use 70 deg F as a ref +when talking generalizations. One poster said he was told his batteries are good when charged at 12.0 VDC and replied 12.0 VDC isn't a good charge. So if it's around 70 deg F and batteries are lead acid, then the chart could be handy. Suppose I should have stated that in last post. + +Thanks Again! I'll be able to look at it (The chart), keeping in mind the low temps around here now. It's no blizzard like you have, but it's still about fifty degrees. I know, we are wusses out here. My sis lives in Vermont, they were buried I guess. +Pal" +"Cleaned carbs at beginning of season. Boat ran at 5700RPM with 2 people. + +Ran fine for about 30 gallons, then wouldn’t pass 3400rpm. Pulled air cover and saw no fuel from middle carb. + +Removed and cleaned carbs again. Found main jet on middle carb was clogged, probably came from internal fuel lines. Makes sense. + +Put them back together and now it won’t pass 4500RPM. Even with 1 person on board. And fuel consumption is over 10GPH. + +Ive noticed fuel/oil in the carb throats after it sits tilted up. + +I did my best to get carb adjustments back to factory, I.e. 1 - 1 1/2 turns out. + +Does this sound like a carb float issue, or something else?","No, air screws (aka mix screws) have a predetermined fuel/air ratio that cannot be altered by turning in/out screws. So this wouldn't be the cause of dropping rpms. But it does sound fuel related. I wouldn't give up ruling oit that system yet. How about the primer bulb....if possible, loosely wrap your hand around it as you throttle up to WOT and pay attention to how the bulb reacts...standard full or does it collapse? + +If you've a restriction btwn tank and bulb then it will collapse. Another troubleshooting test is to squeeze bulb as engine drops rpms. If engine responds w/increase in rpms then this issue is def fuel related.","No, air screws (aka mix screws) have a predetermined fuel/air ratio that cannot be altered by turning in/out screws. So this wouldn't be the cause of dropping rpms. But it does sound fuel related. I wouldn't give up ruling oit that system yet. How about the primer bulb....if possible, loosely wrap your hand around it as you throttle up to WOT and pay attention to how the bulb reacts...standard full or does it collapse? + +If you've a restriction btwn tank and bulb then it will collapse. Another troubleshooting test is to squeeze bulb as engine drops rpms. If engine responds w/increase in rpms then this issue is def fuel related.","Thank you very much for the information. This is the first boat with twin engines that I have owned. + +I have read several marine electric repair books. I am starting to get a pretty good understanding of AC and DC systems. My boat is about 34 years old and they did wire things a little differently back then. The electrical components are very ""old school"".There is basically none of the color coding often refered to in books. Most wires are either black or white. There have also been 34 yrs. of ""boatyard mechanics"" (probably not certified mechanics) working on the boat. I found live wires attached to nothing under the helm. It took me several days, but I was able to pull out a trash bag full of wires that went to nothing. They had been run to power eguipment and simply snipped off and left in place as equipment changed over the years. I have spent a lot of time cleaning connections,straightening out wiring, replacing fuse panels that supplied intermittant power etc. Nothing is labeled and it takes a long time to trace things down. I am labeling circuits as I figure out what they are for. All equipment is now working properly. I havent been able to figure out the battery drain yet. She goes through shaft zincs pretty fast. They usually come loose or fall of right at the end of the season. On previous boats they would be 75% intact at the end of the season. There is also a pink color in the props,that I beleive may have been caused by stray current. Having owned the boat for only 6 years it is hard to determine what the cause of his was. I would notice anything new ""looking strange"" and figure out what is going on. I think that I resolved most issues electrically. It is definitely a learning process. + +I want to learn how to better utilize my digital multi-meter. It is much more advanced than I have the knowledge to utilize at this point. The paperwork that came with it was very vague in describing all of the symbols and how to run more advanced tests. I am hopng that the books will help (like Nigel Caulder boat bible). They don't explain the symbols on the multi-meter. A ""how to"" video would be a great help, but I have not found any yet." +Anyone? Thx ;-),Clymer Yamaha outboard shop manual,Clymer Yamaha outboard shop manual,"a lot depends upon the capabilities of the charging equipment you use....if things are functioning correctly, the voltage should adjust based on temperature as well as current into the battery (based on level of charge). if the voltage get too high, then yes, you are very likely to ""overcharge the battery"". If you have ancient charging equipment, its very likely that neither the voltage or the current are monitored (or controlled) anywhere close to optimal. DEKA makes decent batteries and publishes lots of tech data on their current product line - it makes for an enlightening experience...." +"I have a 1999 40TLRY + +I am having fuel issues. I just bought a new fuel line and it arrives tomorrow. Can someone tell me what the brass fitting is that shoves the ball in on the fuel connector and where I could buy more .Also what part do I need to change it back to they way it was. Seems no one knows this answer I been to boat supply stores and The local marinas parts department + +thanks + + +I am trying to post a picture but not having any luck figuring it out",The brass fitting keeps the ball pushed at all times if I squeeze the primer ball fuel will flow through even if discontinued from the engine,The brass fitting keeps the ball pushed at all times if I squeeze the primer ball fuel will flow through even if discontinued from the engine,"Well, about everyone I know that ever dealt with twins 454's has converted over to diesels for the very reason you want to do the same. As you probably know, the Navy has been using diesel-electrics for years, so it is possible. But these are backed up by massive battery systems. I do not have any direct experience doing this. Just a few observations from many, many years on the water + +1. Electric motors and salt water do not go well together. Even motors that are ""marine ready"" will fail over time and a re-build is not usually worth the money. Replacement is the only viable option. +2. It is not just the motor itself that saltwater attacks, but every contact and connection in the electrical control system. +3. You will need a lot of electricity to run those motors at full power - over 220 KVA based on my calculations (300 HP X 746 watts/HP), and you will need a massive battery pack to act as a capacitor/regulator and backup. + +I think diesels are a proven and much more reliable option." +"I have a 1999 40TLRY + +I am having fuel issues. I just bought a new fuel line and it arrives tomorrow. Can someone tell me what the brass fitting is that shoves the ball in on the fuel connector and where I could buy more .Also what part do I need to change it back to they way it was. Seems no one knows this answer I been to boat supply stores and The local marinas parts department + +thanks + + +I am trying to post a picture but not having any luck figuring it out",Another pic of brass fitting,Another pic of brass fitting,"Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + Clean the carb. Float is probably stuck. +Don't use carb soaks, it can damage any plastic that might be there. +I use the cheap carb/brake cleaner from WallyWorld. + +Click to expand... + + +Ok thanks Jerry I did use some Sea foam in the carb but not a whole lot. I always put Sea foam in the gas tank when it's empty and I fill up to help preserve the gas, I was told to do this by our local marina. I always mix it half the ratio that the can says to. Is this ok or do I need to use a different type of fuel stabilizer. Also when I park my boat in the shop should I leave the motor trimmed up like I'm towing or should I leave it trimmed down." +"I have a 1999 40TLRY + +I am having fuel issues. I just bought a new fuel line and it arrives tomorrow. Can someone tell me what the brass fitting is that shoves the ball in on the fuel connector and where I could buy more .Also what part do I need to change it back to they way it was. Seems no one knows this answer I been to boat supply stores and The local marinas parts department + +thanks + + +I am trying to post a picture but not having any luck figuring it out",Are you looking for the hose fitting that mates with the engine side fitting?,Are you looking for the hose fitting that mates with the engine side fitting?,Thanks for your help makomark! +"I have a 1999 40TLRY + +I am having fuel issues. I just bought a new fuel line and it arrives tomorrow. Can someone tell me what the brass fitting is that shoves the ball in on the fuel connector and where I could buy more .Also what part do I need to change it back to they way it was. Seems no one knows this answer I been to boat supply stores and The local marinas parts department + +thanks + + +I am trying to post a picture but not having any luck figuring it out","I bought a hose fitting but I need that brass fitting to connect it to the engine side or I need what part I need to connect the fitting to the engine side if I do not use that brass fitting . The engine side does not have a male sticking out to push in the ball on the fuel line fitting + + +I would be happy just knowing what that brass fitting is called and where I can buy one. Seems no one knows and has never seen it","I bought a hose fitting but I need that brass fitting to connect it to the engine side or I need what part I need to connect the fitting to the engine side if I do not use that brass fitting . The engine side does not have a male sticking out to push in the ball on the fuel line fitting + + +I would be happy just knowing what that brass fitting is called and where I can buy one. Seems no one knows and has never seen it","The ACR's are on off switches, They sense voltage, They turn on when the voltage drops and off when it comes up. 35amp alts are enough. + +FYI.... Yamaha alternators will maintain a good battery bang, They are not designed to charge a dead battery. + +Tie all battery Negatives together, (Common ground)" +"I have a 1999 40TLRY + +I am having fuel issues. I just bought a new fuel line and it arrives tomorrow. Can someone tell me what the brass fitting is that shoves the ball in on the fuel connector and where I could buy more .Also what part do I need to change it back to they way it was. Seems no one knows this answer I been to boat supply stores and The local marinas parts department + +thanks + + +I am trying to post a picture but not having any luck figuring it out","That brass fitting goes inside of fuel line quick connect for the engine side. Where can I buy more of that brass fittings. + +Also so is that how it is supposed to be connected ? I have ran it this way for over 12 years, I am just now wondering if this is correct .","That brass fitting goes inside of fuel line quick connect for the engine side. Where can I buy more of that brass fittings. + +Also so is that how it is supposed to be connected ? I have ran it this way for over 12 years, I am just now wondering if this is correct .","Ayuh,.... Only a Grand,..?? I can live without one,....." +"I have a 1999 40TLRY + +I am having fuel issues. I just bought a new fuel line and it arrives tomorrow. Can someone tell me what the brass fitting is that shoves the ball in on the fuel connector and where I could buy more .Also what part do I need to change it back to they way it was. Seems no one knows this answer I been to boat supply stores and The local marinas parts department + +thanks + + +I am trying to post a picture but not having any luck figuring it out","They don't sell the brass piece separately. The part on the engine side is called the fuel pipe joint. It's an assembly that includes that brass fitting: + +https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-6G1-24304-02-00-FUEL-JOINT-6G1243040200/dp/B004K9JTDG + +And if it's a TLRY, you have a 2000 btw (not a 1999).","They don't sell the brass piece separately. The part on the engine side is called the fuel pipe joint. It's an assembly that includes that brass fitting: + +https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-6G1-24304-02-00-FUEL-JOINT-6G1243040200/dp/B004K9JTDG + +And if it's a TLRY, you have a 2000 btw (not a 1999).","I will put an ohm meter on it today but, should the button depress freely or not? It seems to be frozen. Boats ..""Its always something"" And BTW curious ..what would be the probable causes that would trip the breaker?" +"I have a 1999 40TLRY + +I am having fuel issues. I just bought a new fuel line and it arrives tomorrow. Can someone tell me what the brass fitting is that shoves the ball in on the fuel connector and where I could buy more .Also what part do I need to change it back to they way it was. Seems no one knows this answer I been to boat supply stores and The local marinas parts department + +thanks + + +I am trying to post a picture but not having any luck figuring it out","Thank you very much + +I have a 40TLRY +6H4 + +L. 549240 + T + + +Also + +what is the brass fitting that I have now ? It pushes into the fuel quick connect and keeps the ball down,even when disconnected . With fuel quick disconnect, disconnected I can squeeze the ball and have fuel come out + + +thanks","Thank you very much + +I have a 40TLRY +6H4 + +L. 549240 + T + + +Also + +what is the brass fitting that I have now ? It pushes into the fuel quick connect and keeps the ball down,even when disconnected . With fuel quick disconnect, disconnected I can squeeze the ball and have fuel come out + + +thanks","Bondo, + +I agree that the Rustoleum is good for some applications. However, I have also had very good results with appliance epoxies that you can get in the rattle cans. I rebuilt a Horizon 900 windless that had taken a beating on the bow of my boat. Got rid of all the flakes and loose stuff, roughed it up with 120 grit sandpaper and used that epoxy appliance paint. Two yours later it still looks new. I have also had good experience with the cold qualvanized paints on my trailer. Had to replace the main tongue and could not find a hot galvannized one long enough, so I purchased a standard boxed steel beam, drilled it, and then cleaned and sprayed with the cold galvanized paint, which does not need a primer. It has worked well." +"I have a 1999 40TLRY + +I am having fuel issues. I just bought a new fuel line and it arrives tomorrow. Can someone tell me what the brass fitting is that shoves the ball in on the fuel connector and where I could buy more .Also what part do I need to change it back to they way it was. Seems no one knows this answer I been to boat supply stores and The local marinas parts department + +thanks + + +I am trying to post a picture but not having any luck figuring it out","geardaddy737 said: + + + +View attachment 20922Another pic of brass fitting + +Click to expand... + + + +this piece","geardaddy737 said: + + + +View attachment 20922Another pic of brass fitting + +Click to expand... + + + +this piece","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + The only problem I see is you dont want that chunk of metal vibratin around it can punch a hole in the hull you know time and pressure. I was in the bilge of a fish processing vessel doing fire watch and noticed a weird hole shaped like a wrench when I was cleaning the bilge of the slag. What happened the wrench vibrated down into the metal hull about 5/8 of an inch and the hull was 3/4 inch thick. I would try and fish that chunk of metal out just in case just to be safe! + +Click to expand... + + +You have a valid point but there is no access to that area of the boat and the part dropped in was very light and only about the size of a small kitchen drain. Personally the way the part snapped apart, the flange, when I was trying to remove it makes me think it was one of those cheap...looked like chrome....tin drains. I have not heard any rattling so think it is just laying there beside one of the 2 x12 stringers....I'm gonna live with it." +"I have a 1999 40TLRY + +I am having fuel issues. I just bought a new fuel line and it arrives tomorrow. Can someone tell me what the brass fitting is that shoves the ball in on the fuel connector and where I could buy more .Also what part do I need to change it back to they way it was. Seems no one knows this answer I been to boat supply stores and The local marinas parts department + +thanks + + +I am trying to post a picture but not having any luck figuring it out","It should all simply be plug and play. + +Item 1 is attached to the lower cowling on the motor. Item 6 is the fitting on the end of the hose. Purchased with the hose or purchased separately. Simply plug them together. No brass fitting needed. + +Just like the parts catalog depicts.","It should all simply be plug and play. + +Item 1 is attached to the lower cowling on the motor. Item 6 is the fitting on the end of the hose. Purchased with the hose or purchased separately. Simply plug them together. No brass fitting needed. + +Just like the parts catalog depicts.","This symbol to remind you that the engine reached the time to maintenance likes replace the engine oil, fuel filter, gear oil, at 100 hours operated" +"I have a 1999 40TLRY + +I am having fuel issues. I just bought a new fuel line and it arrives tomorrow. Can someone tell me what the brass fitting is that shoves the ball in on the fuel connector and where I could buy more .Also what part do I need to change it back to they way it was. Seems no one knows this answer I been to boat supply stores and The local marinas parts department + +thanks + + +I am trying to post a picture but not having any luck figuring it out","Thanks +I am guessing the brass piece I have is part of the whole part of joint pipe 1 + +You guys rock and thanks for the help .","Thanks +I am guessing the brass piece I have is part of the whole part of joint pipe 1 + +You guys rock and thanks for the help .","No fuel leaks detected when system is primed. Strange that my problem only happens at low rpm. Priming refills the VST and the engine runs great until the VST runs itself dry from low rpm operation. However, higher rpms keeps the fuel system charged." +I have a F150TLR 2006 Yamaha 4 stroke. It starts and runs fine for 5 mins under load. Then it fuel starves and spits and sputters. I have changed all hoses and filters except VST. It has two tanks and switching one to the other does not change anything. Also after it stumbles I can pull it back to idle for about a minute and it will catch up and run fine again for 3-5 mins. Checked the two low pressure pumps this morning and all seems perfect. No tears in any diaphragms or gaskets. After reassembling and running symptoms are exactly the same. I'm fixing to remove the vst tank and check that. Would a hanging float valve in the vst tank cause it to loose fuel and overheat? I changed the vst filter year before last. What is the most perplexing is why it runs ok and fails at exactly the same time. Any suggestions? Thanks. Doug,Probably vacume leak. Make sure there is no leaks between fuel pump and petrol tank.,Probably vacume leak. Make sure there is no leaks between fuel pump and petrol tank.,if they +I have a F150TLR 2006 Yamaha 4 stroke. It starts and runs fine for 5 mins under load. Then it fuel starves and spits and sputters. I have changed all hoses and filters except VST. It has two tanks and switching one to the other does not change anything. Also after it stumbles I can pull it back to idle for about a minute and it will catch up and run fine again for 3-5 mins. Checked the two low pressure pumps this morning and all seems perfect. No tears in any diaphragms or gaskets. After reassembling and running symptoms are exactly the same. I'm fixing to remove the vst tank and check that. Would a hanging float valve in the vst tank cause it to loose fuel and overheat? I changed the vst filter year before last. What is the most perplexing is why it runs ok and fails at exactly the same time. Any suggestions? Thanks. Doug,"A hanging float could cause that, but I've never heard of that being a problem. I would replace the VST filter and the needle valve. If you find that the old filter looks fine when you remove it, then measure the fuel pressure within 3 seconds at key-on, and again after the engine starts. Those values should be somewhere around 45 and 38 psi respectively. If those aren't right, then check for leaks and check the pressure regulator (making sure the fuel pressure drops as you add vacuum pressure). It might be stuck.","A hanging float could cause that, but I've never heard of that being a problem. I would replace the VST filter and the needle valve. If you find that the old filter looks fine when you remove it, then measure the fuel pressure within 3 seconds at key-on, and again after the engine starts. Those values should be somewhere around 45 and 38 psi respectively. If those aren't right, then check for leaks and check the pressure regulator (making sure the fuel pressure drops as you add vacuum pressure). It might be stuck.","Awesome, Thank You, I have thoroughly stripped and ultrasonic cleaned the carb including removing the fuel air screw, float height is good. The engine will not start or idle unless the throttle is pretty much half open and it bogs down when I open the throttle, stalls if I close the throttle, taking the plug out after running and its pretty carbonned along with a slight smell of fuel when it's running leads me to think it's running rich, had another play last night and I'm not sure if there wasn't a small bit of leaf in the intake which would cause the same problem I guess but I am clutching at straws with this one." +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","If it is blowing as soon as you get voltage, you have a dead short to ground. Disconnect the batteries and make sure they are hooked up correctly. Next disconnect the main engine harness and see if the fuse still blows, if it does not then the problem is at the helm, If it does the problem is on the engine.","If it is blowing as soon as you get voltage, you have a dead short to ground. Disconnect the batteries and make sure they are hooked up correctly. Next disconnect the main engine harness and see if the fuse still blows, if it does not then the problem is at the helm, If it does the problem is on the engine.","the only way to really fix a leaking rivet is to replace it...but i know that boat and its damn near impossible without a major teardown...if I am not mistaken its also a .080 hull..the newer ones are 100 gauge and welded...I would let the boat dry out on the trailer...temporarily full the weephole with something you can remove later...then put water in the boat and verify that the leak is under the keel....then make a decision... + +that's a good running little boat....but they do develop leaks...unless the leak is really bad you may just end up with a good auto bilge pump.." +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","Hey Chris I do thank you for offering your knowledge on this matter. I' ve disconnected the wiring harness at the engine, it still blow the fuse. I' ve check my hook up of my batteries cable, to the starter relay, everything look o.k.. I' ve even made sure the cables had the right polarity, by putting one end of my meter into the dirt to make sure I have the voltage going to the starter relay. If you have any other suggestion, I would truly like to hear from you. + + vearl","Hey Chris I do thank you for offering your knowledge on this matter. I' ve disconnected the wiring harness at the engine, it still blow the fuse. I' ve check my hook up of my batteries cable, to the starter relay, everything look o.k.. I' ve even made sure the cables had the right polarity, by putting one end of my meter into the dirt to make sure I have the voltage going to the starter relay. If you have any other suggestion, I would truly like to hear from you. + + vearl",The magnets line up with the armature !----Therfor the open space is at the bottom where the brushes are.----And with a digital meter it should read infinity in ohms.---That reading is from the shaft to the commutator. +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","I would hook up a test light across the fuse holder and start disconnecting one thing at a time on the engine until the light goes out. I would start with the tilt/trim relays and work my way up from there. Take some pictures, label everything or draw a diagram. Disconnect everything one piece at at time and leave them disconnected until you find it.","I would hook up a test light across the fuse holder and start disconnecting one thing at a time on the engine until the light goes out. I would start with the tilt/trim relays and work my way up from there. Take some pictures, label everything or draw a diagram. Disconnect everything one piece at at time and leave them disconnected until you find it.","Is your battery fully charged? Is your alternator,rectifier/regulator charging battery,13.4 volts at 1500rpms" +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","I took the positive cable off of the starting relay, and also the tilt trim relays. I started disconnecting everything that I could. As I started connecting each one back, I would check my fuse, when I connect my reg.-rectifier back, it blew the fuse. Is there a way to check the rectifier before buying another. + + +Vearl","I took the positive cable off of the starting relay, and also the tilt trim relays. I started disconnecting everything that I could. As I started connecting each one back, I would check my fuse, when I connect my reg.-rectifier back, it blew the fuse. Is there a way to check the rectifier before buying another. + + +Vearl","Ayuh,...... I'd go with a new tank,.... + +A leakin' gas tank in a boat can be deadly,...." +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.",Chances are the Rectifier is toast. Are you sure about the year and HP of your engine? Can you double check them?,Chances are the Rectifier is toast. Are you sure about the year and HP of your engine? Can you double check them?,"DangarStu said: + + + + With the prop off you could also put a dial gauge on the prop shaft to see if the bearings are still good. Also just grab the shaft and give it a good wiggle to see how much play is in it. Oh man, that sounds dodgy... + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +Thanks I'm gonna try with the prop off/ then checkbearings. I called where i picked up the lower unit and they are going to gothrough it again and see if they missed anything. + +I stopped by two shops and they both said the clutch dog is not engaging fullytill the rpm's go up. Both said it was adjustment. I retried adjustments invarious increments but no luck and had same results. I'm going to pull prop andrun then drop lower unit and run to make sure its nothing else and I can pinpoint that it’s the lower unit. I think the unit is bad or has an issue. + +Its and inspected and used unit and I'm now thinking---worn out!" +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","Chris the motor is a 1995 model. The model # is 130TX T. Thank you. +Vearl","Chris the motor is a 1995 model. The model # is 130TX T. Thank you. +Vearl","Good idea, I'll try that. For some reason I can't quite envision how the exhaust gas is routed from the combustion chamber down to the exhaust port in the lower unit and the port just a bit below the head. Which seals are the possible culprits?" +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","You will need an OHM meter. simple test. Remove the rectifier from the engine. Hook up the negative of the meter to the black lead coming from the rectifier. Now prob the rest of the wires and note the resistance on each one. + +I hope it is only the rectifier that is damaged.","You will need an OHM meter. simple test. Remove the rectifier from the engine. Hook up the negative of the meter to the black lead coming from the rectifier. Now prob the rest of the wires and note the resistance on each one. + +I hope it is only the rectifier that is damaged.",Year? +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","Hey Chris Found out the polarity on my batteries cable wasn't correct. My tilt-trim switches aren't working now. Started motor up, ran good, try to used tilt-trim switches, but they blew the same fuse. Started checking if the relays were going to ground, they check out to be o.k.. Started backtracking on my blue-green wires. The green wire were going to ground. On the wiring harness inside the engine, is a small black box, it has one black wire, one blue wire, one gren wire. The green wire is the one going to ground. I' ve called two different supply stores, they were not familiar with this black box. The box is about one and a quarter inch long,by maybe half an inch wide. It was taped to the wiring harness, maybe two inches away from the tilt-trim onengine","Hey Chris Found out the polarity on my batteries cable wasn't correct. My tilt-trim switches aren't working now. Started motor up, ran good, try to used tilt-trim switches, but they blew the same fuse. Started checking if the relays were going to ground, they check out to be o.k.. Started backtracking on my blue-green wires. The green wire were going to ground. On the wiring harness inside the engine, is a small black box, it has one black wire, one blue wire, one gren wire. The green wire is the one going to ground. I' ve called two different supply stores, they were not familiar with this black box. The box is about one and a quarter inch long,by maybe half an inch wide. It was taped to the wiring harness, maybe two inches away from the tilt-trim onengine",Thank you so much! Appreciate your help! +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + If it is blowing as soon as you get voltage, you have a dead short to ground. Disconnect the batteries and make sure they are hooked up correctly. Next disconnect the main engine harness and see if the fuse still blows, if it does not then the problem is at the helm, If it does the problem is on the engine. + +Click to expand... + + +I don't see this part on my wiring Diagram. Take a picture and post it.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + If it is blowing as soon as you get voltage, you have a dead short to ground. Disconnect the batteries and make sure they are hooked up correctly. Next disconnect the main engine harness and see if the fuse still blows, if it does not then the problem is at the helm, If it does the problem is on the engine. + +Click to expand... + + +I don't see this part on my wiring Diagram. Take a picture and post it.","From where exactly is the oil leaking? +At the reservoir, some where along the hose from the reservoir to the oil pump or at the oil pump? +There is no shut off valve between the reservoir and the oil pump." +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","Chris I' ve taken gthe part out of the wiring harness, hooke my tilt-trim wires together, every thing work o.k.. +I've taken the part to a knowledgeable boat mechanic, he said he had never seen one. He suggested that I tried the tilt-trim without it. So the tilt-trim work o.k., the motor is doing running well as of this time. Thank you for your knowledge and help. + +Vearl","Chris I' ve taken gthe part out of the wiring harness, hooke my tilt-trim wires together, every thing work o.k.. +I've taken the part to a knowledgeable boat mechanic, he said he had never seen one. He suggested that I tried the tilt-trim without it. So the tilt-trim work o.k., the motor is doing running well as of this time. Thank you for your knowledge and help. + +Vearl","aspaziani said: + + + + did you ever find the answer to this? i dont have fuel spitting out anywhere, but i have the same issue of it bogging down and stalling when i put it in gear and give it some gas. + +Click to expand... + + +Start a new thread and include your model/year" +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.",Glad to hear it. Could you post a picture of the part in question?,Glad to hear it. Could you post a picture of the part in question?,Sounds like a bad CDI pack. +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","Vearl, + Don't know if this helps but recently had a similar problem and the below is how I tracked down the problem after many posts asking for help. +"""" + + +Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 7:21 pm Post subject: + + Hi all, +Just an update of my 20 amp fuse continually blowing under the engine cowling. + +Well after many blown fuses finally sorted out fuse issue and thought this may be of use to others. So here is the short story first. Besides myself many a time, had an leco look at the boat and couldn't quite get the fuse to blow so he said will have to look at it another day as he was rushed. Later on that day I remembered what another user on sportsfish.com.au and my brother in law said, that was to move around any cabling or wiring and see if it will blow the fuse. Well guess what, it did. At the time I was moving the wiring under the gunnel on motor side of control box. I sort of thought it was from the red wire that had the insulation worn through on one of the sharp support arms under the gunnel. Repaired that and thought that was easy. Moved the wires again and bang, there it goes again. Looked everywhere and everytime I moved the wire under the gunnel and under the dash it would blow. Scratched my head a few times and thought would wait until dark.. By the way this is about 10 fuses blown already on the day. The one thing I did know was that it was not being caused by the wires leading into the control box as I jiggled and tugged at them and fuse would not blow. So now got it narrowed down to between rear of boat and start of fuses under dash. Last night put a new fuse in, turned on ignition and crawled under dash. Started wriggling the wires and then bam, flash/spark just above the steering cable. Got the torch out and no wonder I didn't see it before. Was one of the gauge wires sandwiched between rigid steering cable and sharp support to the dash. Pulled it out and yellow cabling was almost worn all the way through. Now you might ask why this gauge fuse did not blow, well it was because the fault was on the battery side of the gauge fuse. Anyway repaired the split, placed rubber around every sharp edge I could see under the dash and along gunnel and now good as. Cannot get it to blow. Thanks again. +What a painstaking pain in the arse problem. Hope this helps others. +PS I think that doing this at night or in the dark is the best way and always look along all the sharp edges of the boat as this will be where the fault will be more times than not. + +regards +Kirko","Vearl, + Don't know if this helps but recently had a similar problem and the below is how I tracked down the problem after many posts asking for help. +"""" + + +Posted: Tue Oct 11, 2011 7:21 pm Post subject: + + Hi all, +Just an update of my 20 amp fuse continually blowing under the engine cowling. + +Well after many blown fuses finally sorted out fuse issue and thought this may be of use to others. So here is the short story first. Besides myself many a time, had an leco look at the boat and couldn't quite get the fuse to blow so he said will have to look at it another day as he was rushed. Later on that day I remembered what another user on sportsfish.com.au and my brother in law said, that was to move around any cabling or wiring and see if it will blow the fuse. Well guess what, it did. At the time I was moving the wiring under the gunnel on motor side of control box. I sort of thought it was from the red wire that had the insulation worn through on one of the sharp support arms under the gunnel. Repaired that and thought that was easy. Moved the wires again and bang, there it goes again. Looked everywhere and everytime I moved the wire under the gunnel and under the dash it would blow. Scratched my head a few times and thought would wait until dark.. By the way this is about 10 fuses blown already on the day. The one thing I did know was that it was not being caused by the wires leading into the control box as I jiggled and tugged at them and fuse would not blow. So now got it narrowed down to between rear of boat and start of fuses under dash. Last night put a new fuse in, turned on ignition and crawled under dash. Started wriggling the wires and then bam, flash/spark just above the steering cable. Got the torch out and no wonder I didn't see it before. Was one of the gauge wires sandwiched between rigid steering cable and sharp support to the dash. Pulled it out and yellow cabling was almost worn all the way through. Now you might ask why this gauge fuse did not blow, well it was because the fault was on the battery side of the gauge fuse. Anyway repaired the split, placed rubber around every sharp edge I could see under the dash and along gunnel and now good as. Cannot get it to blow. Thanks again. +What a painstaking pain in the arse problem. Hope this helps others. +PS I think that doing this at night or in the dark is the best way and always look along all the sharp edges of the boat as this will be where the fault will be more times than not. + +regards +Kirko","Can't say about the bulb without inspecting the knobs but most likely that there is no bulb within the knob. + +the knobs will either pull off the shafts or will have a set screw that needs to be loosened...look around the perimeter of the knob for a small threaded hole...another thing is to see if you can see the shaft between the knob and the panel - if it appears splined, the knobs should just pull off, if the shaft is smooth, a set screw is likely." +"My 1995 Yamaha 130 h.p. motoe is blowing the onengine 30 amp fuse as soon as it get voltage. I was working on the battery cables, and let them arc. Every since my fuse started blowing. Can some help.","Hi Chris, +Can you please help me to solve my issue with my outboard yamaha 100 hp made in 1999. It ran very well for a month but yesterday I ran it longest time around 1 hr. Almost got home but I lost my friend behind so I slowed down the boat at 3500rpm for 7 minutes then it stopped and smell like something burn then no power at all. This morning I check everything then I found out that fuse 30 amp for solenoids and motor burned. I replaced it then it ran again but only for 4 minutes then burned again. All running condition were same before but it keeps burning. I checked all ground wire looking good but i did not disconnect harness yet. Any idea for this issue sir please help me! +thank you so much in advanced Chris! + +James","Hi Chris, +Can you please help me to solve my issue with my outboard yamaha 100 hp made in 1999. It ran very well for a month but yesterday I ran it longest time around 1 hr. Almost got home but I lost my friend behind so I slowed down the boat at 3500rpm for 7 minutes then it stopped and smell like something burn then no power at all. This morning I check everything then I found out that fuse 30 amp for solenoids and motor burned. I replaced it then it ran again but only for 4 minutes then burned again. All running condition were same before but it keeps burning. I checked all ground wire looking good but i did not disconnect harness yet. Any idea for this issue sir please help me! +thank you so much in advanced Chris! + +James","Thanks so much Boscoe! Really appreciate the time and effort to help me out here. Loved the diagram and instructions. I followed your advice and all checked out. I then bypassed my battery cables and went direct to the motor and all good both tilt and motor started so must've been a bad cable. I'm back on the water! thanks again! + + + + +boscoe said: + + + + My idea would be to trouble shoot the electrical system. But first we need to know what has been done and maybe what has not been done. + +Are you talking about both the remote control switch and the engine switch for the trim/tilt relay not working or just the remote control switch? + +When you say that you have power to the trim/tilt relay and the starter motor relay I presume that you mean battery power. That power is unfused. + +You also need power to the control circuit side of the relays. That power comes via the fused red wire that goes to the ten pin harness and up to the key switch and trim switch. Then to the starter motor relay via a brown wire (key turned to the start position) and via a blue or green wire (trim switch pressed up or down) to the trim/tilt relay. + +See if the components are working first. If so, if us know. We can then go from there. + + + + +Click to expand..." +"The problem I’m having with the prop is that it produces a high pitch noise originally thought that it was A bushing in the footing making that noise after two weeks of working with it I realize that it had to be to prop.Is it damaged ? Where to get the best prop ? Have you ever bought propeller from Hex Auto Parts? The price is attractive and more reasonable than Wholesale Marine, I'd like to place an order.","Mmmm dont think its the prop...its just pushing water. Possibly the hub I suppose. But I'd be troubleshooting the mechanical related parts....spacer, washer, hub, etc, before going to buy new prop. Can you confirm the correct hub kit and its assembly installed?","Mmmm dont think its the prop...its just pushing water. Possibly the hub I suppose. But I'd be troubleshooting the mechanical related parts....spacer, washer, hub, etc, before going to buy new prop. Can you confirm the correct hub kit and its assembly installed?",images +"New to the site, hay guys! Last fall my 15hp got swamped, I had the jonboat pulled up on the bank for the night, boats when past the landing at throttle and swamped the back of the boat, the motor bottomed it out on the skeg, the power head was above the water line but somehow water made it into the cylinders. When I tried the pullstart it locked the motor, I removed the plugs and cycled the water out of it. After drying everything, new plugs, I started it up and it ran kinda good. But it had an odd little hitch in the giddyup, almost like something was out of balance. +My question is there anything in the power head that I could have damaged when I tried the pullstart and it was full of water? Something delicate that got bent? I doubt I can generate enough power to bend a connecting rod. I don't know anything about 2 strokes, mine is a 1987 and has been a sweet little motor, I use it only a few weeks a year when fishing the Manistee in Michigan for salmon & steelhead. It stays up there, I don't have it here in Virginia so I can't pull something off and tell you what I see, sorry about that. +I am gathering parts up to fix it with, so far I have coil, wires, prop (it gets whacked often and maybe that is the vibration) - anything else you guys can think of? +Thanks for your help, Oj",Well if it was full of water in the crankcase over the winter it will run until it goes BOOM.------Water and precision bearings do not get along very well.,Well if it was full of water in the crankcase over the winter it will run until it goes BOOM.------Water and precision bearings do not get along very well.,"Look for these 2 places on the wonderful net.--------noah's marine supplies----in Toronto.--------composites Canada -----In Toronto.--------Been in both places myself.---Candy stores for boat fixers.------I think they can ship as well.------They have everything you might want for boat repair.--------I am doing a project with composite materials now.------No wood left in the transom , floor , stringers , ribs and front deck support.----I know how to repair your transom so that it would take a small atomic bomb to break it." +"New to the site, hay guys! Last fall my 15hp got swamped, I had the jonboat pulled up on the bank for the night, boats when past the landing at throttle and swamped the back of the boat, the motor bottomed it out on the skeg, the power head was above the water line but somehow water made it into the cylinders. When I tried the pullstart it locked the motor, I removed the plugs and cycled the water out of it. After drying everything, new plugs, I started it up and it ran kinda good. But it had an odd little hitch in the giddyup, almost like something was out of balance. +My question is there anything in the power head that I could have damaged when I tried the pullstart and it was full of water? Something delicate that got bent? I doubt I can generate enough power to bend a connecting rod. I don't know anything about 2 strokes, mine is a 1987 and has been a sweet little motor, I use it only a few weeks a year when fishing the Manistee in Michigan for salmon & steelhead. It stays up there, I don't have it here in Virginia so I can't pull something off and tell you what I see, sorry about that. +I am gathering parts up to fix it with, so far I have coil, wires, prop (it gets whacked often and maybe that is the vibration) - anything else you guys can think of? +Thanks for your help, Oj",No water in the crankcase. All that is good. I ran the engine for a couple weeks after it happened.,No water in the crankcase. All that is good. I ran the engine for a couple weeks after it happened.,"Ayuh,.... There's No grounds anywhere near that battery switch, only the positive cables,..... + +The boat's Grounds should all be common,...... +Each battery to the motor, which makes the motor's block the common Ground,..... +If more than 1 motor, there should be Ground straps from block to block,......" +"New to the site, hay guys! Last fall my 15hp got swamped, I had the jonboat pulled up on the bank for the night, boats when past the landing at throttle and swamped the back of the boat, the motor bottomed it out on the skeg, the power head was above the water line but somehow water made it into the cylinders. When I tried the pullstart it locked the motor, I removed the plugs and cycled the water out of it. After drying everything, new plugs, I started it up and it ran kinda good. But it had an odd little hitch in the giddyup, almost like something was out of balance. +My question is there anything in the power head that I could have damaged when I tried the pullstart and it was full of water? Something delicate that got bent? I doubt I can generate enough power to bend a connecting rod. I don't know anything about 2 strokes, mine is a 1987 and has been a sweet little motor, I use it only a few weeks a year when fishing the Manistee in Michigan for salmon & steelhead. It stays up there, I don't have it here in Virginia so I can't pull something off and tell you what I see, sorry about that. +I am gathering parts up to fix it with, so far I have coil, wires, prop (it gets whacked often and maybe that is the vibration) - anything else you guys can think of? +Thanks for your help, Oj","Ok, let me ask the question in a different way. How can water enter a cylinder if the powerhead was above the water. Can it enter thru the exhaust? If yes, is there anything in that system that could be damaged when I pulled to start the engine. Again, the powerhead remained above the water, the top of the jonboat just below the water and the skeg bottomed out. The boat did not sink, the engine was not immursed.","Ok, let me ask the question in a different way. How can water enter a cylinder if the powerhead was above the water. Can it enter thru the exhaust? If yes, is there anything in that system that could be damaged when I pulled to start the engine. Again, the powerhead remained above the water, the top of the jonboat just below the water and the skeg bottomed out. The boat did not sink, the engine was not immursed.","Love the pipe wrench, in conjunction with an outboard! +I have a 1996 Yamaha 8hp I picked up for a cousin. It too (owners manual & cowl sticker), states 100:1 +We run it at 50:1, with no issues. Back in the 80’s the EPA wanted 100:1 for pollutions reasons, Evinrude also had those 100:1 stickers for a few years, until they cooked some motors. A service bulletin changed it back to 50:1 +The gear oil you have is good. The Yamaha manual calls for the same 90W oil. +If I was using this motor only for trolling, or low rpm operation, & running a bigger motor for main propulsion, I might run 75:1 or even 100:1. +Look up Leroy’s Ramblings - he kept two fuel tanks, 50:1 for hi power running, then switched to another tank,with less oil for hours of trolling. +50:1 might foul plugs quicker, but they are cheap." +"New to the site, hay guys! Last fall my 15hp got swamped, I had the jonboat pulled up on the bank for the night, boats when past the landing at throttle and swamped the back of the boat, the motor bottomed it out on the skeg, the power head was above the water line but somehow water made it into the cylinders. When I tried the pullstart it locked the motor, I removed the plugs and cycled the water out of it. After drying everything, new plugs, I started it up and it ran kinda good. But it had an odd little hitch in the giddyup, almost like something was out of balance. +My question is there anything in the power head that I could have damaged when I tried the pullstart and it was full of water? Something delicate that got bent? I doubt I can generate enough power to bend a connecting rod. I don't know anything about 2 strokes, mine is a 1987 and has been a sweet little motor, I use it only a few weeks a year when fishing the Manistee in Michigan for salmon & steelhead. It stays up there, I don't have it here in Virginia so I can't pull something off and tell you what I see, sorry about that. +I am gathering parts up to fix it with, so far I have coil, wires, prop (it gets whacked often and maybe that is the vibration) - anything else you guys can think of? +Thanks for your help, Oj","Yes it could if the valve was open. You said you tried to start it and it locked. That is called hydrolocking, that could have bent a rod.","Yes it could if the valve was open. You said you tried to start it and it locked. That is called hydrolocking, that could have bent a rod.",3.3 liter with mechanical controls. +"I had a 1985 90 Yamaha, purchased it new....... My son wanted to start fishing so we just got through restoring boat completely. Then we found out the motor had a burnt bottom piston. So my local repair shop had a 2000 model he offered to me instead on a new one. So I purchased it. + +One problem I had was the trim gauge harness on the 2000 model is different than the 1985. So I cut the plug off the 2000 and wired in the wires from the gauge. Now I am having trouble getting the gauge to measure the motor movement accurately. Basically the gauge only swing through about have the range on the gauge. + +I am also wounding what to connect the gray wire to? + +The original gauge worked on the 1985 motor. Why is it not working properly on the 2000 model?",Anyone got anything that may be able to help out here?,Anyone got anything that may be able to help out here?,Tps sensor in ECM is bad. Try to find a loaner to verify. Thank's Martin +"I just purchased the boat (Bennington pontoon) and did the following maintenance: +-new water separater +-new fuel filter +-changed oil +-changed gear oil +-drained fuel from fuel tank and filled up with non ethanol fuel (existing gas was a darker yellow, prior owner said he always used sea foam so I’m not sure if that caused the color change or if it was just old) + +This is the problem I’m having, initially it starts up great and idles fine. After idling about 5-10 minutes I went to around 3500 rpm and it ran there about 20 seconds before cutting out and eventually stalling. It cranked z back up but would only stay around 1000rpm for almost a minute then die. Each time it would die quicker until it wouldn’t start at all. Let it sit about 10 minutes and it fired right back up but would only idle for a small time. I can squeeze the primer bulb continuously and that helps but not enough to keep it running. The boat can sit overnight or an extended period of time (hours) then the process starts over with it running a longer time the first time then getting worse each time after starting until finally not cranking. + +Things I’ve tried so far are a new primer bulb, verified fuel tank vent is clear, verified when it dies the fuel filter is full of fuel, drained the vst tank and refilled. It seems the fuel issue is behind the paper element as everything forward of that to the actual fuel tank seems oaky. My next though is would this sound like the vst filter? The engine only has 32 hours so obviously it sat a lot since 2013 and was last used a year before purchase but had yearly service by local dealer. + +Im open to advice and thank you for your time. + +Matt","I would drain the system of any old fuel.. you already drained the tank, but also drain the VST, the on-engine fuel filter cup and temporarily bypass the fuel/water separator filter. This engine is very new, so I wouldn't expect the VST filter (or any other filter) to be clogged. Then replace the spark plugs, and see how it performs.","I would drain the system of any old fuel.. you already drained the tank, but also drain the VST, the on-engine fuel filter cup and temporarily bypass the fuel/water separator filter. This engine is very new, so I wouldn't expect the VST filter (or any other filter) to be clogged. Then replace the spark plugs, and see how it performs.",Power plant needs to be removed. +"I have a 2005 yamaha 300hp HPDI outboard. had it on the water and started acting up, it seemed to be starving for gas. would hardly run and if I pushed throttle forward it would die. I have changed all filters thru out. in attempts to clean injectors that where oxidized in I now have six new injectors. feel like I can get gas to belt fuel pump but not sure from there. any help or or insight would be great. +Thanks Brian","Try pumping the primer bulb to see if issue goes away,","Try pumping the primer bulb to see if issue goes away,","ClassicAQ said: + + + + You've got 3 principle outboard systems...fuel, compression, and spark, the latter including electrics. Considering the engine kills only when operating trim switch, this isn't a compression or fuel issue. Therefore your focus should be on spark, specifically the electrical system. + +Check cranking battery volts (12.75) +Volt drop test T/T wiring, ignition harness wiring, including the ignition kill switch wiring + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you, I'll give it a try." +"I have a 2005 yamaha 300hp HPDI outboard. had it on the water and started acting up, it seemed to be starving for gas. would hardly run and if I pushed throttle forward it would die. I have changed all filters thru out. in attempts to clean injectors that where oxidized in I now have six new injectors. feel like I can get gas to belt fuel pump but not sure from there. any help or or insight would be great. +Thanks Brian",did that it did nothing,did that it did nothing,"FWIW, in addition to the trim functions, most marine engines use a slave solenoid to excite the starter. This eliminates any issues with voltage drops in long harnesses going to the helm...." +"I have a 2005 yamaha 300hp HPDI outboard. had it on the water and started acting up, it seemed to be starving for gas. would hardly run and if I pushed throttle forward it would die. I have changed all filters thru out. in attempts to clean injectors that where oxidized in I now have six new injectors. feel like I can get gas to belt fuel pump but not sure from there. any help or or insight would be great. +Thanks Brian","patchel said: + + + + I have a 2005 yamaha 300hp HPDI outboard. had it on the water and started acting up, it seemed to be starving for gas. would hardly run and if I pushed throttle forward it would die. I have changed all filters thru out. in attempts to clean injectors that where oxidized in I now have six new injectors. feel like I can get gas to belt fuel pump but not sure from there. any help or or insight would be great. +Thanks Brian + +Click to expand... + + +my 300 don't stall it just don't have power and I am thinking mine is timing advance problem +I turn the engine off and work the throttle handle full forward and full reverse and this seems to cure the problem temporally","patchel said: + + + + I have a 2005 yamaha 300hp HPDI outboard. had it on the water and started acting up, it seemed to be starving for gas. would hardly run and if I pushed throttle forward it would die. I have changed all filters thru out. in attempts to clean injectors that where oxidized in I now have six new injectors. feel like I can get gas to belt fuel pump but not sure from there. any help or or insight would be great. +Thanks Brian + +Click to expand... + + +my 300 don't stall it just don't have power and I am thinking mine is timing advance problem +I turn the engine off and work the throttle handle full forward and full reverse and this seems to cure the problem temporally","The best way to deal with a 19 year old boat electrical problems is to start from scratch, new over old doesn't work, otherwise you will be dealing with electrical issues for the rest your ownership, not difficult to do, I have done three (mine, and two friends) some teen years ago and not a problem, your rocker switches should be fix to a removable dash make the wiring outside then install as one unit, jump the + of all switches with 14g the use a single 10g to power it from the B+ block under the console, look up marine wiring code so you will have different color codes for every accessory, easy to find at the other end and easy to troubleshoot, you can make your harness out side and thread it as one." +"I have an 18 gallon tank mounted under mi windshield. I ran a 175 mariner with no problem for years. I hooked the yamha to it and it runs fine until I get down to a half a tank. Then when I hit 4000 rpm for about a minuted it starves and falls off. I rebuilt the fuel pumps, put a new filter in. replaced the line to the back of the boat wit 3/8 metal fuel line. I still have the problem. I ordered a new fuel line and primer bulb, I hope that works. Any other possible ideas? Some times when I go to make a run, I have to hit the choke to accelerate or it wants to drop off.","When the engine begins to starve what's status of primer bulb....full or collapsed? If collapsed then you've got a restriction aft of bulb. If full, when it begins to starve start squeezing the bulb. If motor responds then it's likely fuel pump issue.","When the engine begins to starve what's status of primer bulb....full or collapsed? If collapsed then you've got a restriction aft of bulb. If full, when it begins to starve start squeezing the bulb. If motor responds then it's likely fuel pump issue.",Nice one daves69. +I bent my propshaft and had to take it to the dealer to have the carrier bearing pulled. When I got it back the old shaft had already been disassembled and I have no idea how it goes back together. My Yamaha book does not show assembly with the parts I have. The trlz shares the same size lower unit with the 70 and 90 of that year.,"What Yamaha book do you have? The one I have clearly shows the order of installation. Also, the parts catalog does the same.","What Yamaha book do you have? The one I have clearly shows the order of installation. Also, the parts catalog does the same.","Not familiar with your model but sounds like possible exhaust leak or maybe engine breather pipe split / disconnected, allowing fumes into air intake. Also piston blowby due to low compressions/worn rings. When cowl is off pure air is getting to cylinders." +"hi guys I'm wondering if can help +I have a 3hp Malta engine with the petrol tank on top +is it possible for me to connect a fuel tank with primer bulb to it so i dont have to keep filling it +i have done the modification but when I press to get the fuel through it comes out the air intake +cheers mark",Certainly it is possible to plumb a remote tank to a 3 HP Yamaha outboard motor.,Certainly it is possible to plumb a remote tank to a 3 HP Yamaha outboard motor.,"I think the bottom 2 cylinders are not running, I am waiting ti receive a compression tester, is there a gasket needed if i replace the reeds? +The engine is a 30deo, It might be a 1996" +"hi guys I'm wondering if can help +I have a 3hp Malta engine with the petrol tank on top +is it possible for me to connect a fuel tank with primer bulb to it so i dont have to keep filling it +i have done the modification but when I press to get the fuel through it comes out the air intake +cheers mark","boscoe said: + + + + Certainly it is possible to plumb a remote tank to a 3 HP Yamaha outboard motor. + +Click to expand... + + +thanks for your reply but when i press the bulb it wont go hard because fuel is coming out air intake +fo you know why thats happening","boscoe said: + + + + Certainly it is possible to plumb a remote tank to a 3 HP Yamaha outboard motor. + +Click to expand... + + +thanks for your reply but when i press the bulb it wont go hard because fuel is coming out air intake +fo you know why thats happening","aliboy, Thanks, Will do. Keep you guys posted." +"hi guys I'm wondering if can help +I have a 3hp Malta engine with the petrol tank on top +is it possible for me to connect a fuel tank with primer bulb to it so i dont have to keep filling it +i have done the modification but when I press to get the fuel through it comes out the air intake +cheers mark","It is possible that the primer ball is creating so much pressure that the float valve cannot seat and stop the flow of fuel. Don't pump so hard. You just want to fill up the carburetor float bowl. Only takes a couple of ounces, if that. Depending upon how long the motor sits between uses it might not be necessary to pump the primer ball.","It is possible that the primer ball is creating so much pressure that the float valve cannot seat and stop the flow of fuel. Don't pump so hard. You just want to fill up the carburetor float bowl. Only takes a couple of ounces, if that. Depending upon how long the motor sits between uses it might not be necessary to pump the primer ball.","both of these are swags but first I would check and make sure all battery connections are good...2nd I would not overlopk the possibility of water in the trolling motor or a bad connection in it.. + +is this a metal boat?" +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","Can you post a YDS report of the engine at idle after it's warmed up? + +Also remove the spark plugs and take some pictures. + +Also, confirm that all the plug wires are actually producing good spark with a spark tester. + +Finally, did you measure the fuel pressure within 3 seconds after key-on? If you only took the measurement when it was running, I would check what it is at key-on. It should be about 45psi at key-on, and 38 while idling after warmup.","Can you post a YDS report of the engine at idle after it's warmed up? + +Also remove the spark plugs and take some pictures. + +Also, confirm that all the plug wires are actually producing good spark with a spark tester. + +Finally, did you measure the fuel pressure within 3 seconds after key-on? If you only took the measurement when it was running, I would check what it is at key-on. It should be about 45psi at key-on, and 38 while idling after warmup.",PBblaster solvent penetrating spray and some patience. +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","rejesterd said: + + + + Can you post a YDS report of the engine at idle after it's warmed up? + +Also remove the spark plugs and take some pictures. + +Also, confirm that all the plug wires are actually producing good spark with a spark tester. + +Finally, did you measure the fuel pressure within 3 seconds after key-on? If you only took the measurement when it was running, I would check what it is at key-on. It should be about 45psi at key-on, and 38 while idling after warmup. + +Click to expand... + + +I will take a pic of the plugs and get the yds info. I will also run another fuel pressure check. But I’m pretty sure it was around 40psi without the motor running. You can hear the fuel pump turn on and the pressure goes up key on motor off.","rejesterd said: + + + + Can you post a YDS report of the engine at idle after it's warmed up? + +Also remove the spark plugs and take some pictures. + +Also, confirm that all the plug wires are actually producing good spark with a spark tester. + +Finally, did you measure the fuel pressure within 3 seconds after key-on? If you only took the measurement when it was running, I would check what it is at key-on. It should be about 45psi at key-on, and 38 while idling after warmup. + +Click to expand... + + +I will take a pic of the plugs and get the yds info. I will also run another fuel pressure check. But I’m pretty sure it was around 40psi without the motor running. You can hear the fuel pump turn on and the pressure goes up key on motor off.","Might have sucked up debris from bottom of tank into carburetor,filters, water/fuel separator, fuel pump and contaminated fuel lines" +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","If it's 40 at key-on, that's a bit low. And if it was 48 while idling, that's definitely too high. The pressure regulator might be stuck.","If it's 40 at key-on, that's a bit low. And if it was 48 while idling, that's definitely too high. The pressure regulator might be stuck.",No ideas? +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","rejesterd said: + + + + If it's 40 at key-on, that's a bit low. And if it was 48 while idling, that's definitely too high. The pressure regulator might be stuck. + +Click to expand... + + +I want to say it was at 48 key on and 35 at idle. I will recheck it tomorrow and post the yds info.","rejesterd said: + + + + If it's 40 at key-on, that's a bit low. And if it was 48 while idling, that's definitely too high. The pressure regulator might be stuck. + +Click to expand... + + +I want to say it was at 48 key on and 35 at idle. I will recheck it tomorrow and post the yds info.","Personally, when it comes to hardware and other engine essentials I only buy yamaha oem. In this case, a carb kit, you'll find a cheaper aftermarket kit like sierra. But it becomes a major headache and labor time wasted when the engine isn't performing as it should bc you used an aftermarket product. Just my take. I'll use aftermarket fuel/water separator, or even a fuel filter, but only yam oem parts installed on or in the motor." +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA",Did you have the injectors cleaned?,Did you have the injectors cleaned?,"Glad to help,Bullie." +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Did you have the injectors cleaned? + +Click to expand... + + +They have never been cleaned.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Did you have the injectors cleaned? + +Click to expand... + + +They have never been cleaned.","boscoe said: + + + + Try a test first before doing anything further. Empty the main oil tank. The one on the motor. Remove the sight sump to do this. Clean, reattach and secure the sump. Make sure the remote tank has oil in it. At least half + +Turn the key switch to the ON position only. Wait a bit. Take note of the time. The pump should start to run. Oil should start to be pumped from the remote tank to the main tank. The main tank should fill within 180 seconds. If not, the pump will time out. If the tank fills within 180 seconds the pump and the filter are doing their job. If the pump times out before 180 seconds has gone by the filter may be partially clogged and/or the voltage to the pump could be low. + +Click to expand... + +I changed the filter and drained the main tank to the bottom mark when I turned the key on got an alarm and the pump was running. after about thirty seconds I turned the key off to see if that would shut down the alarm and It did but the pump would not come back on even tried to lift the float switch and nothing happened except I got an alarm +then it started raining. going to put it in the water and try it... +Thanks" +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","Firemedic0822 said: + + + + They have never been cleaned. + +Click to expand... + + +You cleaned the fuel tank and have new filters and fuel.....You should have had the injectors cleaned also. Have them done. + +Did you adjust any screws on the throttle plates besides the base idle screw? + +Your TPS voltage should be around .7 volts","Firemedic0822 said: + + + + They have never been cleaned. + +Click to expand... + + +You cleaned the fuel tank and have new filters and fuel.....You should have had the injectors cleaned also. Have them done. + +Did you adjust any screws on the throttle plates besides the base idle screw? + +Your TPS voltage should be around .7 volts","boscoe said: + + + + There is no lock or brake inherent in the motor. I would suspect that the rings are corroded to the cylinder walls. + +Just to make sure that it is not something within the lower unit however I would remove the lower unit and then see if the flywheel can be rotated. + +Click to expand... + + +Boscoe, thanks for confirming that there is no lock or brake. + +I personally find it strange that the pistons move 1cm up/down. Surely the rings would not have that much 'play' in the piston, or do you think the rings can ""move"" that much whilst corroded in the cylinder? + +I'll take the lower part off, just to make sure nothing is blocking the shaft. + +Thanks." +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + You cleaned the fuel tank and have new filters and fuel.....You should have had the injectors cleaned also. Have them done. + +Did you adjust any screws on the throttle plates besides the base idle screw? + +Your TPS voltage should be around .7 volts + +Click to expand... + + +The tank was completely replaced along with all fuel lines and filters. TPS voltage at idle is .7. I have not adjusted any throttle screws. I am going to order some rebuilt injectors tomorrow. I found them for about $60 for Bosch replacements.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + You cleaned the fuel tank and have new filters and fuel.....You should have had the injectors cleaned also. Have them done. + +Did you adjust any screws on the throttle plates besides the base idle screw? + +Your TPS voltage should be around .7 volts + +Click to expand... + + +The tank was completely replaced along with all fuel lines and filters. TPS voltage at idle is .7. I have not adjusted any throttle screws. I am going to order some rebuilt injectors tomorrow. I found them for about $60 for Bosch replacements.","I assume it keeps buzzing indefinitely at key-on. If it's a short buzz, that would be normal. + +I would disconnect the thermoswitch and the oil pressure switch, then see if it still buzzes. Those switches are the usual things that make the buzzer sound. But normally, the engine has to be running for those to trigger the buzzer. + +The other thing that makes the buzzer sound is the neutral safety switch. But if you can start the engine with no problems, then I don't think it would be related to that." +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","Firemedic0822 said: + + + + The tank was completely replaced along with all fuel lines and filters. TPS voltage at idle is .7. I have not adjusted any throttle screws. I am going to order some rebuilt injectors tomorrow. I found them for about $60 for Bosch replacements. + +Click to expand... + + +DO NOT ORDER REBUILT INJECTORS! There really is no such thing. + + +Pulls your out, find a local shop and have them cleaned and serviced. Around $25 each for the service W/filters and o-rings. Simple job on your 150.","Firemedic0822 said: + + + + The tank was completely replaced along with all fuel lines and filters. TPS voltage at idle is .7. I have not adjusted any throttle screws. I am going to order some rebuilt injectors tomorrow. I found them for about $60 for Bosch replacements. + +Click to expand... + + +DO NOT ORDER REBUILT INJECTORS! There really is no such thing. + + +Pulls your out, find a local shop and have them cleaned and serviced. Around $25 each for the service W/filters and o-rings. Simple job on your 150.","as stated before, that was WAY back when we had a trailered outboard (four boats ago)...tilting the engine up always dumped fuel and it wold minimize any varnish buildup if use dropped off... + +If you engine stays 'upright' and it is used frequently, I'd say draining your fuel system isn't essential during the summer..." +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + DO NOT ORDER REBUILT INJECTORS! There really is no such thing. + + +Pulls your out, find a local shop and have them cleaned and serviced. Around $25 each for the service W/filters and o-rings. Simple job on your 150. + +Click to expand... + + +There are a few places that sell cleaned serviced injectors. I was going to order them and send mine out for service so I have an extra set. I found these guys + +https://www.newenglandinjectors.com...low_Tested_Cleaned_(4)_63P-13761-00-00.html#/ + +any thoughts on that plan?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + DO NOT ORDER REBUILT INJECTORS! There really is no such thing. + + +Pulls your out, find a local shop and have them cleaned and serviced. Around $25 each for the service W/filters and o-rings. Simple job on your 150. + +Click to expand... + + +There are a few places that sell cleaned serviced injectors. I was going to order them and send mine out for service so I have an extra set. I found these guys + +https://www.newenglandinjectors.com...low_Tested_Cleaned_(4)_63P-13761-00-00.html#/ + +any thoughts on that plan?", +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","rejesterd said: + + + + Can you post a YDS report of the engine at idle after it's warmed up? + +Also remove the spark plugs and take some pictures. + +Also, confirm that all the plug wires are actually producing good spark with a spark tester. + + + + +Finally, did you measure the fuel pressure within 3 seconds after key-on? If you only took the measurement when it was running, I would check what it is at key-on. It should be about 45psi at key-on, and 38 while idling after warmup. + +Click to expand... + + +Here is the yds info +...also when turning on the key the fuel pressure initially jumped to 50psi after about 10 seconds it dropped to 39psi and stayed there + +While running at idle fuel pressure was 43 psi. I didn't have time to pull the plugs but I did use a spark checker and it was showing it had spark. + + I also pulled the plug wires off when it was running and each cylinder dropped rpm and would immediately regain rpm before the plug wire was fully attached to the spark plug.","rejesterd said: + + + + Can you post a YDS report of the engine at idle after it's warmed up? + +Also remove the spark plugs and take some pictures. + +Also, confirm that all the plug wires are actually producing good spark with a spark tester. + + + + +Finally, did you measure the fuel pressure within 3 seconds after key-on? If you only took the measurement when it was running, I would check what it is at key-on. It should be about 45psi at key-on, and 38 while idling after warmup. + +Click to expand... + + +Here is the yds info +...also when turning on the key the fuel pressure initially jumped to 50psi after about 10 seconds it dropped to 39psi and stayed there + +While running at idle fuel pressure was 43 psi. I didn't have time to pull the plugs but I did use a spark checker and it was showing it had spark. + + I also pulled the plug wires off when it was running and each cylinder dropped rpm and would immediately regain rpm before the plug wire was fully attached to the spark plug.","Usually the axle is the limiting factor for ground clearance....as long as you will have some ""cushion"" with the springs compressed, the skeg of the motor should be fine. + +If you want more views, the easiest way would be to go to one or more of the local marinas/storage lots and visit what's there and measure them....and similar option would be to visit a 'large' boat dealer (if there's one in your area)... + +I believe that lower is better, not only for stability (cg) but it means the boat floats 'sooner' when launching..." +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA",here is the yds at 2200 rpm,here is the yds at 2200 rpm,I think that is some good advice! Thanks +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","Yeah, the fuel pressure seems high, even at key-on. Clogged injectors wouldn't do that. They could certainly be clogged, so it's a good idea to have them cleaned, but I would take a closer look at the pressure regulator. Seems like it's stuck. + +However, your YDS shows idle speed is only 585 rpm. That's definitely too low. So I would go through the link/sync procedure outlined in the service manual. That could be contributing to the problem as well.","Yeah, the fuel pressure seems high, even at key-on. Clogged injectors wouldn't do that. They could certainly be clogged, so it's a good idea to have them cleaned, but I would take a closer look at the pressure regulator. Seems like it's stuck. + +However, your YDS shows idle speed is only 585 rpm. That's definitely too low. So I would go through the link/sync procedure outlined in the service manual. That could be contributing to the problem as well.","boscoe said: + + + + The 86 ~ 89 Pro V150's used the same CDI part number. I would suspect that the 86 thru 89 models are all but identical. For practical purposes any different part numbers would not matter. You can go and open the Yamaha parts catalogs for all four years and determine if and when there are any part number differences. + +Why do you feel the need to know the specific year? If you get to the specific year are you going to want to know the specific month in which the motor was made? The motor left Yamaha with a sticker that indicated the month and year of manufacture. Keep in mind that even though it was a specific model year motor it might have been made in the previous year. Just like you can buy a 2019 automobile that was made in 2018. + +Click to expand... + + +Not crazy important, but if I get this running the ad I write up with an 86, 87, 88 or 89 150 pro v won't look quite as s3xy... Sure wouldn't be the first ad I would look at if I were buying..." +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","rejesterd said: + + + + Yeah, the fuel pressure seems high, even at key-on. Clogged injectors wouldn't do that. They could certainly be clogged, so it's a good idea to have them cleaned, but I would take a closer look at the pressure regulator. Seems like it's stuck. + +However, your YDS shows idle speed is only 585 rpm. That's definitely too low. So I would go through the link/sync procedure outlined in the service manual. That could be contributing to the problem as well. + +Click to expand... + + + +Ok awesome. I’ll take a look at the service manual and pressure reg. I will have the injectors tomorrow so we will see.","rejesterd said: + + + + Yeah, the fuel pressure seems high, even at key-on. Clogged injectors wouldn't do that. They could certainly be clogged, so it's a good idea to have them cleaned, but I would take a closer look at the pressure regulator. Seems like it's stuck. + +However, your YDS shows idle speed is only 585 rpm. That's definitely too low. So I would go through the link/sync procedure outlined in the service manual. That could be contributing to the problem as well. + +Click to expand... + + + +Ok awesome. I’ll take a look at the service manual and pressure reg. I will have the injectors tomorrow so we will see.","Yeah, I was using the edit, but power bumps during the blizzard was making everything do dumb things and I was dumb +for trying to send stuff during the strorm. + +The chart is just a quick ref for lead acid. There certainly will be variances for temp, but generally speeking I use 70 deg F as a ref +when talking generalizations. One poster said he was told his batteries are good when charged at 12.0 VDC and replied 12.0 VDC isn't a good charge. So if it's around 70 deg F and batteries are lead acid, then the chart could be handy. Suppose I should have stated that in last post. + +Thanx for clearing that up" +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA",**Update**. The injectors were the problem. Got them cleaned. Put the boat in the water today. 6000rpm without a problem. Thanks everyone!,**Update**. The injectors were the problem. Got them cleaned. Put the boat in the water today. 6000rpm without a problem. Thanks everyone!,"Epoxy is great stuff but I'd be concerned about long term grip on a metal hull. + +I've seen demonstrations of this stuff called Durafix but I've never used it myself so I can't personally vouch for it. But, the demo I saw looked like a clean, strong bond to the base material. If you already have a hole I'd say you don't have anything to lose. I'd suggest buying some of the material and attempting a repair. If it works, that's great. If not.....oh well, you still have to cut out the material and weld in a new patch. + +https://www.durafix.com/" +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","Firemedic0822 said: + + + + **Update**. The injectors were the problem. Got them cleaned. Put the boat in the water today. 6000rpm without a problem. Thanks everyone! + +Click to expand... + + +Good deal.","Firemedic0822 said: + + + + **Update**. The injectors were the problem. Got them cleaned. Put the boat in the water today. 6000rpm without a problem. Thanks everyone! + +Click to expand... + + +Good deal.","boscoe said: + + + + Looking at a number of 9.9s and 15's, over several model years, it looks like the difference is the reed valve assembly. + +To confirm that a 9.9 has been converted to a 15, the carburetor will need to be removed to gain access to the reed valve assembly. So as to confirm that the motor has really been modified. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. I ended up buying a 9.9 4-stroke with no claims of being modified." +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Good deal. + +Click to expand... + +Chris - Just for my own curiosity.. Do you know if clogged injectors would cause the fuel pressure to increase at key-on? Seems like it should not matter in that case. Looking back on the OP's numbers, it seems like his gauge is just a little off (because key-on and idle pressure are exactly 5 psi off the spec). + +Also to the OP - If you have time, I'd be interested in seeing a new YDS report while idling. Just to see what (if anything) changed. I'm surprised the idle speed was as low as it was. Just wondering if new/cleaned injectors would bring it back up to 650-700.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Good deal. + +Click to expand... + +Chris - Just for my own curiosity.. Do you know if clogged injectors would cause the fuel pressure to increase at key-on? Seems like it should not matter in that case. Looking back on the OP's numbers, it seems like his gauge is just a little off (because key-on and idle pressure are exactly 5 psi off the spec). + +Also to the OP - If you have time, I'd be interested in seeing a new YDS report while idling. Just to see what (if anything) changed. I'm surprised the idle speed was as low as it was. Just wondering if new/cleaned injectors would bring it back up to 650-700.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Actually the shift switch is on the engine. The neutral safety switch is in the control box. + +If the ecm does not see the engine started in neutral and shifted into gear while the engine is running it will limit the rpms to around 3000 or less. + +Click to expand... + + + +Again, This is where you should be looking." +"So I have a 2008 yamaha f150 4 stroke with 490hrs and about4 weeks ago while on vacation with the boat I wasn’t able to get max rpm. Prior to going on vacation I changed themotor and lower oil, changed the plugs and all of the fuel filters. Trimmed I can usually get 6000 rpm out of themotor. I have owned the boat since newand have always used pump gas…..i know I know. But I have never had a problem with the boat….ever. +Originally I thought it was water in the fuel so while onvacation I had the tank cleaned and the fuel polished. An additive, gas shok was added by the fueltank cleaning company and that did increase performance. The day the tank was cleaned I ran the boataround 2000 rpm for about 2 hours and I was able to get about 4800 rpm out ofthe motor at about 85% throttle. I wasable to get higher rpm intermittently by pumping the throttle but it would dieback down to around 3000rpm at WOT. The following day I fueled up at the dock withrec 90. After that the problem came backand was only able to get 3000 rpm out of the motor. +Since the problem started I have purchased the Yamaha YDSprogram to see if it was throwing any codes. It had a few codes but from back in 60 and 100hr range. +Compression test showed +199psi cyl 1 +203psi cyl 2 +190psi cyl 3 +195psi cyl 4 +Fuel pressure was 48psi at the fuel rail +Shop tank was run and same symptoms +Fuel tank was completely changed along with fuel lines,racor and motor filter (tank had holes from pitting on the top of the tank soit had to be replaced). +Drained the VST +Injectors were tested at 2500 rpm on a hose and disconnectedand I got an rpm drop on all cylinders +Ignition was checked on a hose with an ignition tester andby pulling the wires off of the plugs and got drops in RPM with this test + + +Checked the mech fuel pump diaphragm for any tears andchecked the plunger for wear + +With the YDS software, the TPS was showing very erraticvoltage so we assumed it was that. TPSwas ordered and replaced. + + +Fast forward to yesterday…. +I took the boat out and ran it after setting the TPS voltageand got the same result. 2000rpm. The boat idles very rough and pops all overthe place. Going from idle andthrottling up the motor will stall. Idid notice that the IAC gets very very hot. You can hear the rattle when you shut the motor off but when I pulled itoff to see if it would open and close it doesn’t do anything. +So needless to say I am pretty stumped and any help would begreat!! +TIA",Injectors have nothing to do with static fuel pressure during key on unless you have an injector that is stuck in the open position.,Injectors have nothing to do with static fuel pressure during key on unless you have an injector that is stuck in the open position.,"retiredbob said: + + + + I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance + +Click to expand... + + +Is this a 4 stroke or is that a typo? Ring free is for 2 stroke engines, Yamalube is also for 2 stroke engines." +"A number of Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke hi thrust owners have added an external voltage regulator ... specifically a Flexcharge NC25A . I would also like to add a regulator that works. +Most problems people have is with over voltage after the batteries are fully charged. They add an ""additional"" regulator to the output of the engine. However, my problem is that I suspect the factory regulator gets hot and shuts down... mine just quits charging... I also suspect the factory regulator has ruined at least two batteries that were new.. +I have run the existing engine output to my electrical panel and installed an ammeter. I can monitor voltage and amperage. What I would like to do is run an UNREGULATED electrical output from the engine using this cable lead that I have installed ... then I would be able to install a good regulator. +HOWEVER, the factory regulator is also a rectifier. (I was told a rather questionable quality half wave rectifier at that)... +I see that on the yamaha 9.9 electrical schematic of the engine there are two leads (green and green with a white stripe) coming into the engine regulator from the ""Lighting coil"" of the engine alternator. .. I have to assume these could be used to fit a bridge rectifier on the engine..?? But, there is also a third wire from a second coil on the engine from a coil also marked ""lighting coil"".... + +I doubt anyone will read this thread or if they do will have gotten this far LOL ... but I am determined to fix the regulator problem I've had with this engine from day one. I assume that if I were to connect a full wave bridge rectifier that I could run the unregulated output to a separate Flexcharge regulator ... +If there is anyone who might 1) understand what I am trying to explain and 2) have some idea of how to connect an external voltage regulator AND rectifier, Please contact me ... [email protected]","All those words. Yet the most important are missing. + +What is the model of the motor? There are over 10 different versions of a Yamaha four stroke 9.9 HP motor. Here in just the USA alone. + +There are models with no lighting coils. There are models with lighting coils but no rectifier or rectifier/regulator. There are models with lighting coils but only a rectifier. There are models with lighting coils and a rectifier/regulator.","All those words. Yet the most important are missing. + +What is the model of the motor? There are over 10 different versions of a Yamaha four stroke 9.9 HP motor. Here in just the USA alone. + +There are models with no lighting coils. There are models with lighting coils but no rectifier or rectifier/regulator. There are models with lighting coils but only a rectifier. There are models with lighting coils and a rectifier/regulator.","2x on what Bondo suggests...on the east coast, LOTS of people register their trailers in Maine...may be worth some research on that topic..." +"A number of Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke hi thrust owners have added an external voltage regulator ... specifically a Flexcharge NC25A . I would also like to add a regulator that works. +Most problems people have is with over voltage after the batteries are fully charged. They add an ""additional"" regulator to the output of the engine. However, my problem is that I suspect the factory regulator gets hot and shuts down... mine just quits charging... I also suspect the factory regulator has ruined at least two batteries that were new.. +I have run the existing engine output to my electrical panel and installed an ammeter. I can monitor voltage and amperage. What I would like to do is run an UNREGULATED electrical output from the engine using this cable lead that I have installed ... then I would be able to install a good regulator. +HOWEVER, the factory regulator is also a rectifier. (I was told a rather questionable quality half wave rectifier at that)... +I see that on the yamaha 9.9 electrical schematic of the engine there are two leads (green and green with a white stripe) coming into the engine regulator from the ""Lighting coil"" of the engine alternator. .. I have to assume these could be used to fit a bridge rectifier on the engine..?? But, there is also a third wire from a second coil on the engine from a coil also marked ""lighting coil"".... + +I doubt anyone will read this thread or if they do will have gotten this far LOL ... but I am determined to fix the regulator problem I've had with this engine from day one. I assume that if I were to connect a full wave bridge rectifier that I could run the unregulated output to a separate Flexcharge regulator ... +If there is anyone who might 1) understand what I am trying to explain and 2) have some idea of how to connect an external voltage regulator AND rectifier, Please contact me ... [email protected]","boscoe said: + + + + All those words. Yet the most important are missing. + +What is the model of the motor? There are over 10 different versions of a Yamaha four stroke 9.9 HP motor. Here in just the USA alone. + +There are models with no lighting coils. There are models with lighting coils but no rectifier or rectifier/regulator. There are models with lighting coils but only a rectifier. There are models with lighting coils and a rectifier/regulator. + +Click to expand... + + + +about 330 hours on a T9.9EXHA sn 6G8X790779 the schematic for this engine shows three leads from two coils marked ""lighting coils"" running to the rectifier/regulator. +note ... +the issue I've had is that if I motor for a few hours the engine quits charging ... the autopillot runs the batteries down (I single hand my boat) and at some voltage the autopilot also shuts down... when I', motoring the batteries should of course get topped off .. so I'd like to fix this issue. I could modifybthe rectifier regulator if that was possible to get an unregulated current - I just found a used rectifier regulator from a 1994 yamaha 9.9 ,,, perhapsyou are saying that I can't interchange these ... but the part numbers for them are the same.. ... luckily most of the time I am sailing and the solar panel keeps the batt. up. But I do not run both the solar panel and the engine at the same time because of the batt. charging issues... sohave this motoring issue.","boscoe said: + + + + All those words. Yet the most important are missing. + +What is the model of the motor? There are over 10 different versions of a Yamaha four stroke 9.9 HP motor. Here in just the USA alone. + +There are models with no lighting coils. There are models with lighting coils but no rectifier or rectifier/regulator. There are models with lighting coils but only a rectifier. There are models with lighting coils and a rectifier/regulator. + +Click to expand... + + + +about 330 hours on a T9.9EXHA sn 6G8X790779 the schematic for this engine shows three leads from two coils marked ""lighting coils"" running to the rectifier/regulator. +note ... +the issue I've had is that if I motor for a few hours the engine quits charging ... the autopillot runs the batteries down (I single hand my boat) and at some voltage the autopilot also shuts down... when I', motoring the batteries should of course get topped off .. so I'd like to fix this issue. I could modifybthe rectifier regulator if that was possible to get an unregulated current - I just found a used rectifier regulator from a 1994 yamaha 9.9 ,,, perhapsyou are saying that I can't interchange these ... but the part numbers for them are the same.. ... luckily most of the time I am sailing and the solar panel keeps the batt. up. But I do not run both the solar panel and the engine at the same time because of the batt. charging issues... sohave this motoring issue.","hard to say....(maybe they mean 'inboard'(= I/O) as in not an outboard any idea who made the system? + +As a rule, the application usually dives the cylinder options and that's mostly mounting options" +"A number of Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke hi thrust owners have added an external voltage regulator ... specifically a Flexcharge NC25A . I would also like to add a regulator that works. +Most problems people have is with over voltage after the batteries are fully charged. They add an ""additional"" regulator to the output of the engine. However, my problem is that I suspect the factory regulator gets hot and shuts down... mine just quits charging... I also suspect the factory regulator has ruined at least two batteries that were new.. +I have run the existing engine output to my electrical panel and installed an ammeter. I can monitor voltage and amperage. What I would like to do is run an UNREGULATED electrical output from the engine using this cable lead that I have installed ... then I would be able to install a good regulator. +HOWEVER, the factory regulator is also a rectifier. (I was told a rather questionable quality half wave rectifier at that)... +I see that on the yamaha 9.9 electrical schematic of the engine there are two leads (green and green with a white stripe) coming into the engine regulator from the ""Lighting coil"" of the engine alternator. .. I have to assume these could be used to fit a bridge rectifier on the engine..?? But, there is also a third wire from a second coil on the engine from a coil also marked ""lighting coil"".... + +I doubt anyone will read this thread or if they do will have gotten this far LOL ... but I am determined to fix the regulator problem I've had with this engine from day one. I assume that if I were to connect a full wave bridge rectifier that I could run the unregulated output to a separate Flexcharge regulator ... +If there is anyone who might 1) understand what I am trying to explain and 2) have some idea of how to connect an external voltage regulator AND rectifier, Please contact me ... [email protected]","about 330 hours on a T9.9EXHA sn 6G8X790779 the schematic for this engine shows three leads from two coils marked ""lighting coils"" running to the rectifier/regulator. +note ... +the issue I've had is that if I motor for a few hours the engine quits charging ... the autopillot runs the batteries down (I single hand my boat) and at some voltage the autopilot also shuts down... when I', motoring the batteries should of course get topped off .. so I'd like to fix this issue. I could modifybthe rectifier regulator if that was possible to get an unregulated current - I just found a used rectifier regulator from a 1994 yamaha 9.9 ,,, perhapsyou are saying that I can't interchange these ... but the part numbers for them are the same.. ... luckily most of the time I am sailing and the solar panel keeps the batt. up. But I do not run both the solar panel and the engine at the same time because of the batt. charging issues... sohave this motoring issue.","about 330 hours on a T9.9EXHA sn 6G8X790779 the schematic for this engine shows three leads from two coils marked ""lighting coils"" running to the rectifier/regulator. +note ... +the issue I've had is that if I motor for a few hours the engine quits charging ... the autopillot runs the batteries down (I single hand my boat) and at some voltage the autopilot also shuts down... when I', motoring the batteries should of course get topped off .. so I'd like to fix this issue. I could modifybthe rectifier regulator if that was possible to get an unregulated current - I just found a used rectifier regulator from a 1994 yamaha 9.9 ,,, perhapsyou are saying that I can't interchange these ... but the part numbers for them are the same.. ... luckily most of the time I am sailing and the solar panel keeps the batt. up. But I do not run both the solar panel and the engine at the same time because of the batt. charging issues... sohave this motoring issue.",I missed this... Fuel sheen in the water? Can you tell if it is forming by the engine that is misbehaving? I know it is tough to tell as only a few drops will quickly spread and you won't be able to tell where it came from. While trying to start and starting the misbehaved engine have someone standing back there watching to see if some drops of fuel fall from the base of the engine and hit the water. Pull the cowling and smell for gas fumes... Could have a small cut/worn fuel line or fuel leak inside the engine. Any fuel leak from a hose or fitting inside the engine eventually makes it's way out through the small drain holes around the base. Drip-Drip. It may start running well because the fuel pumps have delivered enough pressure and filled air voids in the fuel system created by the leak or the air has been pushed through and passed created by a slow leak after some idling time. +"A number of Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke hi thrust owners have added an external voltage regulator ... specifically a Flexcharge NC25A . I would also like to add a regulator that works. +Most problems people have is with over voltage after the batteries are fully charged. They add an ""additional"" regulator to the output of the engine. However, my problem is that I suspect the factory regulator gets hot and shuts down... mine just quits charging... I also suspect the factory regulator has ruined at least two batteries that were new.. +I have run the existing engine output to my electrical panel and installed an ammeter. I can monitor voltage and amperage. What I would like to do is run an UNREGULATED electrical output from the engine using this cable lead that I have installed ... then I would be able to install a good regulator. +HOWEVER, the factory regulator is also a rectifier. (I was told a rather questionable quality half wave rectifier at that)... +I see that on the yamaha 9.9 electrical schematic of the engine there are two leads (green and green with a white stripe) coming into the engine regulator from the ""Lighting coil"" of the engine alternator. .. I have to assume these could be used to fit a bridge rectifier on the engine..?? But, there is also a third wire from a second coil on the engine from a coil also marked ""lighting coil"".... + +I doubt anyone will read this thread or if they do will have gotten this far LOL ... but I am determined to fix the regulator problem I've had with this engine from day one. I assume that if I were to connect a full wave bridge rectifier that I could run the unregulated output to a separate Flexcharge regulator ... +If there is anyone who might 1) understand what I am trying to explain and 2) have some idea of how to connect an external voltage regulator AND rectifier, Please contact me ... [email protected]","Thanks for the information. + +The T9.9EXHA uses a rectifier/regulator. Which should be controlling the voltage at no more than 15.5 volts or so I would suspect. + +I think what you are experiencing is the fact that the autopilot, and other electronic equipment that you might have in use, are simply drawing more current than the motor is capable of providing. The motor is only capable of outputting 6 amps under best case conditions. The battery is supplying any additional current that is needed. After a while the battery has no more to give. Voltage drops. Equipment shuts down. + +Other than installing more or bigger batteries, or both, I don't see a solution to your problem. The lighting coils are only so big and the magnets are only so strong. Consequently the electrical output from the lighting coils through the R/R is only so much. Not much if you will. Some with much bigger motors have the same problems as you do if and when their electrical power requirements exceed what the motor can provide.","Thanks for the information. + +The T9.9EXHA uses a rectifier/regulator. Which should be controlling the voltage at no more than 15.5 volts or so I would suspect. + +I think what you are experiencing is the fact that the autopilot, and other electronic equipment that you might have in use, are simply drawing more current than the motor is capable of providing. The motor is only capable of outputting 6 amps under best case conditions. The battery is supplying any additional current that is needed. After a while the battery has no more to give. Voltage drops. Equipment shuts down. + +Other than installing more or bigger batteries, or both, I don't see a solution to your problem. The lighting coils are only so big and the magnets are only so strong. Consequently the electrical output from the lighting coils through the R/R is only so much. Not much if you will. Some with much bigger motors have the same problems as you do if and when their electrical power requirements exceed what the motor can provide.","Next could be the Stator Assy but you are over $400 for that. May be worth pulling the rotor assy on top (quick and easy) and taking a look at it for dirt, burning, wasp nests, and lose connection or broken pins in the electrical connections but before I'd throw that much $ at a part chasing a ghost it's, unfortunately, probably time to take it to the service center unless anyone else here has any ideas here or you can find more advice via Google." +"Hi Folks, + +I have just purchased a Yamaha 115hp. It did not come with any battery connectors for the starter motor. + +I have some I can use but was not 100% on where the positive and negative should be connected. + +Is no 1 in the attached photo positive and no 2 negative..? + +Thanks",The connection points are fully detailed in the applicable service manual. If you are doing maintenance on the motor shirley you have the service manual available to guide you.,The connection points are fully detailed in the applicable service manual. If you are doing maintenance on the motor shirley you have the service manual available to guide you.,"Grinder said: + + + + Hello everyone! + +After I've been searching for this manual for over a week now, I came over this forum in one of my searches. I've just registered as a user on this forum, and this is my first post. + + + + + +I've just bought a used Skanti VHF 3000, Type ""TRP 3024"". Unfortunately this VHF came without cables and without a manual. Something the seller didn't have. I'm looking for a manual to this VHF or someone who has knowledge on how I should wire it up. + + + + + + +I have the power cable to the VHF, as you can see on the picture. And I have half the cable that goes from REMOTE and to the handset. Unfortunately there is only a plug in one end of the cable, so I would need to find me a new plug. The plug would probably be OK to find, but I don't know the configuration of the 7 wires. + + + + + + +I'm also missing both the plug and the cable from ""Auxilliary"". According to the seller, this cable should go to the external speaker. The plug should be OK to get, but then I'm still missing the wiring configuration. + + + + + + +As you can see on the picture above, there is two sockets on the handset. One market with ""in"" and one with ""out"". I guess the cable from ""remote"" on the main unit should go to the ""in"" on the handset. Do anyone know what the ""out"" socket is for? + +If anyone could help me with some guidelines, wiring diagrams or manuals I would appreciate it very much + +Click to expand... + +I think I may have what you are looking for. I have a manual and “connecting transceiver unit and control unit” instructions." +"My buddy has this engine, it hasn't ran right in 3 years. Starts, idles, revs up in neutral, as soon as it goes under a load in the water it it stops at 3000rpms. Doesn't shut off, it just stays at 3000 and will sometimes backfire. So I think it's limp mode. + +None of his indicator lights work. + +We have replaced filters, cleaned lines, ran a separate fuel tank. still has the issue. I think it's some type of sensor. + +Any feedback would be great + +Thanks",Possible problem with the Shift switch.,Possible problem with the Shift switch.,"makomark said: + + + + three options: 1) make sure all the electrical connections are sound, try resetting the configuration switch on the back....take a screwdriver and rotate it thru all positions a few times before putting it back on ""8"", and finally, replace or repair the tach- this will be driven by who made it and its age. + +Click to expand... + + +I assume I reset the confit switch with engine off?" +"My buddy has this engine, it hasn't ran right in 3 years. Starts, idles, revs up in neutral, as soon as it goes under a load in the water it it stops at 3000rpms. Doesn't shut off, it just stays at 3000 and will sometimes backfire. So I think it's limp mode. + +None of his indicator lights work. + +We have replaced filters, cleaned lines, ran a separate fuel tank. still has the issue. I think it's some type of sensor. + +Any feedback would be great + +Thanks","I been looking up the shift switch, are any of these pics it? i read where it looks like a sheet metal screw up against a block...? + +i see a small piece if metal, very flexible, does any of this sound like the shift switch?","I been looking up the shift switch, are any of these pics it? i read where it looks like a sheet metal screw up against a block...? + +i see a small piece if metal, very flexible, does any of this sound like the shift switch?","I wouldn't bother running it out or flushing the tank. +Just make sure you have proper ratios." +"My buddy has this engine, it hasn't ran right in 3 years. Starts, idles, revs up in neutral, as soon as it goes under a load in the water it it stops at 3000rpms. Doesn't shut off, it just stays at 3000 and will sometimes backfire. So I think it's limp mode. + +None of his indicator lights work. + +We have replaced filters, cleaned lines, ran a separate fuel tank. still has the issue. I think it's some type of sensor. + +Any feedback would be great + +Thanks",The one with the blue wire. Get a meter and test it.,The one with the blue wire. Get a meter and test it.,"Ayuh,..... Replace 'em both as a set,...... + +In yer picture, the spiral coil around the center strand isn't spaced evenly, which means it's junk,..... +Wider by the nut, closer near the tag end,..... + +The cog gears in the helm run on those spirals, as gear teeth,..... they have to be perfectly even spacin',....." +"My buddy has this engine, it hasn't ran right in 3 years. Starts, idles, revs up in neutral, as soon as it goes under a load in the water it it stops at 3000rpms. Doesn't shut off, it just stays at 3000 and will sometimes backfire. So I think it's limp mode. + +None of his indicator lights work. + +We have replaced filters, cleaned lines, ran a separate fuel tank. still has the issue. I think it's some type of sensor. + +Any feedback would be great + +Thanks","What should it test at? A certain voltage? + + Thank you for all the help!!","What should it test at? A certain voltage? + + Thank you for all the help!!","No, have follow Yamaha:s in my enginepark 5, 15, 20 and 30hp (30hp Autolube) twostroke and 70hp (forstroke) +The smaler hp engine not nearby in smoke when I start +The smoke problem start one or two years ago. + + +The neighbor asked if there was a fire in the boat when I start the Yamaha. + +Is it possible that the oil pump can deliver too much oil? +The oil pump is mechanical and driven by the crankshaft, can sealing oil pump be broken so that compression from the crankcase? + +/Matts" +"My buddy has this engine, it hasn't ran right in 3 years. Starts, idles, revs up in neutral, as soon as it goes under a load in the water it it stops at 3000rpms. Doesn't shut off, it just stays at 3000 and will sometimes backfire. So I think it's limp mode. + +None of his indicator lights work. + +We have replaced filters, cleaned lines, ran a separate fuel tank. still has the issue. I think it's some type of sensor. + +Any feedback would be great + +Thanks","Disconnect it, Test it with an ohm meter and make sure it works.","Disconnect it, Test it with an ohm meter and make sure it works.",Just checked and I got fire on both plugs +"My buddy has this engine, it hasn't ran right in 3 years. Starts, idles, revs up in neutral, as soon as it goes under a load in the water it it stops at 3000rpms. Doesn't shut off, it just stays at 3000 and will sometimes backfire. So I think it's limp mode. + +None of his indicator lights work. + +We have replaced filters, cleaned lines, ran a separate fuel tank. still has the issue. I think it's some type of sensor. + +Any feedback would be great + +Thanks","so I tested the switch, tested fine. I took it apart to clean everything up. On that switch is that little plunger, could that possibly not be getting pushed in by that little metal piece and block? It was pretty gunked up with greese.","so I tested the switch, tested fine. I took it apart to clean everything up. On that switch is that little plunger, could that possibly not be getting pushed in by that little metal piece and block? It was pretty gunked up with greese.",I am working on getting a multimeter. My old one is not working. By the way I have twin engines so I could try switching some parts but don't want to end up with 2 motors not working. LOL Thanks John +"My buddy has this engine, it hasn't ran right in 3 years. Starts, idles, revs up in neutral, as soon as it goes under a load in the water it it stops at 3000rpms. Doesn't shut off, it just stays at 3000 and will sometimes backfire. So I think it's limp mode. + +None of his indicator lights work. + +We have replaced filters, cleaned lines, ran a separate fuel tank. still has the issue. I think it's some type of sensor. + +Any feedback would be great + +Thanks","reassemble it, hook up your meter and test it in place with the shift control.","reassemble it, hook up your meter and test it in place with the shift control.","The Mariner parts catalog shows a part number 7953M for the 1980 25ML flywheel. What Yamaha calls a rotor. + +689-85550-41-00 is the Yamaha part number for an early Yamaha 25 model. 1984 thru 1987 model years it seems. But that part is no longer available from Yamaha. + +I presume that your new old stock motor did not come with the flywheel installed?" +"My buddy has this engine, it hasn't ran right in 3 years. Starts, idles, revs up in neutral, as soon as it goes under a load in the water it it stops at 3000rpms. Doesn't shut off, it just stays at 3000 and will sometimes backfire. So I think it's limp mode. + +None of his indicator lights work. + +We have replaced filters, cleaned lines, ran a separate fuel tank. still has the issue. I think it's some type of sensor. + +Any feedback would be great + +Thanks","I just realized on this engine, there are two of those switches. Pretty much co located. The bottom one that was a little hidden seems like its a switch for N and R. I tested it, all 00.0 ohms in the closed or depressed position. Then 4.65 in the open or non depressed position. + +Did I find the issue? + +Thanks.","I just realized on this engine, there are two of those switches. Pretty much co located. The bottom one that was a little hidden seems like its a switch for N and R. I tested it, all 00.0 ohms in the closed or depressed position. Then 4.65 in the open or non depressed position. + +Did I find the issue? + +Thanks.",check the rating tag in the boat and dont exceed it.. +I have a 06 75 hp. I had to rebuild the foot. The shear pin in the clutch dog broke and bust some teeth on the forward gear. I got it all back together but even though I have the throttle lever and the foot gear in neutral as soon as I bump the key the foot jumps to reverse while the throttle lever is in neutral. Any ideas cause I'm lost.,"Shifting rod was 180 degrees out,","Shifting rod was 180 degrees out,",Whats engine model number? Spark at the plug electrode is supposed to ne intermittent. Each plug fires at a specific time. What issue are you having with your engine? +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,"You don't see a little mark on the lever? Just up the lever from where the bolt hole is? + +How about a good quality close up photo of the lever on your oil pump.","You don't see a little mark on the lever? Just up the lever from where the bolt hole is? + +How about a good quality close up photo of the lever on your oil pump.","So am I correct in assuming, if one was to ‘Backflush’ an outboard, it would have to be done with motor not running? Else backflushing would be fighting the flow of the water pump impeller wouldn’t it? + +What is the advantage of backflushing, compared to muffs? +Only thing I could think of is any debris entering the bottom vents may be washed back out rather than getting trapped at the tell tale. But you’d be best to remove the bottom vents to stop debris getting trapped there instead of coming out when backflushing anyhow I would think." +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,,,"Pplampert said: + + + + Yes i check battery before and running its not charging I checked a 10amp fuse its good it has a spare as well i rotated them. But it looks like its for the trim + +Click to expand... + +Not following you on the trim. The fuse protects the wiring that is doing more than just powering the trim and tilt system. + +When the motor is running do you have 14 or so volts to the fuse from the rectifier/regulator and then on the other side of the fuse? To the starter motor relay?" +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,Has the pump been dismantled?,Has the pump been dismantled?,"I have shifted this thread to the correct place, is there a way to delete it here? +ta" +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,Not that I know of but I was not the first owner. Engine looked stock to me. With that being said if I have been chasing a rough running mid range rpm gremlin for a year now. The reason I was wondering about oil is two fold. I replaced the plastic screw on end last year as I noticed a crack in it. Tried to put new one back roughly same length as I did not have service manual then. Second I wondered if too much oil could that affect mid rpm roughness,Not that I know of but I was not the first owner. Engine looked stock to me. With that being said if I have been chasing a rough running mid range rpm gremlin for a year now. The reason I was wondering about oil is two fold. I replaced the plastic screw on end last year as I noticed a crack in it. Tried to put new one back roughly same length as I did not have service manual then. Second I wondered if too much oil could that affect mid rpm roughness,what makes you sure the transom is 'solid'? what condition is the wood in where the outboard's thru-bolts were? +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,"Would you suggest just removing precision blend system and prefixing? If so, what is involved in conversion?","Would you suggest just removing precision blend system and prefixing? If so, what is involved in conversion?",You would have to check with the MFD provider to see if VTS is available. +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,"Not only no but hell know. + +I think this is the mark they are talking about.","Not only no but hell know. + +I think this is the mark they are talking about.",All depends on your location.----Salt water areas means used motor are scarce.-----Areas with lots of poor folks and used motors are scarce.----Freshwater areas with lots of rich folks and used motors may be plentiful.----Your location ? +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,So the spot under the spring hook? The Manuel says to line it up with line on pump. Sorry to be a pest but what mark on pump body? The service Manuel is not very clear.,So the spot under the spring hook? The Manuel says to line it up with line on pump. Sorry to be a pest but what mark on pump body? The service Manuel is not very clear.,"Take a video and post here of the engine running with top cowling off. The audio is what's most important. And if possible, have a friend increase/decrease throttle while in neutral, as well as shifting into forward and reverse gear." +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,"Now that I think about it, the oil pump defaults to the fully open position. Which is where it is as depicted in your photo. The setting is made with the throttle (and the oil pump) in the closed position. Rotate the oil pump control lever clockwise so that the connection point is on the other side. Then look for a mark on the lever. Should be opposite the tang which holds the spring in place. + +What manual are you using? I am looking at the Yamaha manual and it is pretty clear.","Now that I think about it, the oil pump defaults to the fully open position. Which is where it is as depicted in your photo. The setting is made with the throttle (and the oil pump) in the closed position. Rotate the oil pump control lever clockwise so that the connection point is on the other side. Then look for a mark on the lever. Should be opposite the tang which holds the spring in place. + +What manual are you using? I am looking at the Yamaha manual and it is pretty clear.","chawk_man said: + + + +Rick, +Thanks. That was very helpful. + +1.... My current wiring setup is very similar to the one in the diagram with a hot lead from the house battery wired directly to the (internal) float switch, and a second switch hot lead which bypasses the internal float switch. It looks like I can install a separate float switch and wire it directly to the hot lead to the bilge pump, and bypass the internal float switch. + +2.... Then, I can T the alarm between the float switch and the pump so it would activate whenever the float switch completed the circuit. + +3.... I notice that there are two types of float switches on the market. One is the lever type and one appears to be a sensor in a tube. Do you have a recommendation which works best? + +4.... Also, what is the purpose of the 6V battery wired into the house battery? I’ve never seen that set up before. + +Click to expand... + +You are very welcome.... hope it was helpful, and not confusing! + +1.... That should work just fine! You could just as easily not by-pass the internal float swith under the guise that the pump does not need to operate unless high water exists. +However, by-passing allows for an occasional pump test! +NOTE: the integral float switches can become gunked up, and may cause issues. It doesn't take much dried out bilge slime to prevent the operation of one...... hence the recommendation for the external float switch. + + +2.... Again, no need to! +The circuit from the manual helm switch becomes ""live"" when either the helm switch OR the float switch powers the bilge pump. +IOW, if you were to tap in right at the helm switch, this is schematically the same! + +3.... I prefer the old school switch. It allows for an occasional manual operation as to check things. +Lift it up, and the pump should run! + +4.... true well cell 6 volt deep cycle batteries (in series/groups of two) offer a greater amp hour capacity for our HLBBs (house load battery banks). +This is quite common amoung cruiser boats whereby house loads are a critical part of staying on the hook for any length of time. +I've been using them for years. + +I have twin 5.7s. +The Stbd side battery bank also provides hull power. +I do not have a dedicated cranking bank for the Stbd engine. +I crank the Stbd engine on this large bank of 6 volt D/C batteries, and have had zero issues to date. +I know people who do same. + +I do have a momentary helm switch ""auto-combine"" feature that would get me going should I end up with a low HLBB. + +." +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,i am looking at the same manual with same picture. i just do not see the marks the manual references. i will post another picture with it in default position. the default without rod on it actually is in wide open position which i would assume is a safety feature if rod came disconnected.,i am looking at the same manual with same picture. i just do not see the marks the manual references. i will post another picture with it in default position. the default without rod on it actually is in wide open position which i would assume is a safety feature if rod came disconnected.,"I had a similar problem on my 1999 Sx150TXRX. Once I hit around 40 mph the alarm would sound. Water pump and thermostats were all good, engine was mounted correctly also. + +My motor is a saltwater motor and I bought it in Florida where it was used often. + +The problem was; the water passages had a lot of saltwater buildup, scaly so to speak. I used vinegar and water, I sprayed it, let it soak a bit, then scraped it off with a scraper and wire brush. Fixed the problem! + +Take the outer cover (cooling covers) off your cylinder heads and check for buildup. You will need new gaskets for the covers." +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,I would guess that this is what they are talking about. It is aligned above the center axis of the bolt as is shown in the illustration.,I would guess that this is what they are talking about. It is aligned above the center axis of the bolt as is shown in the illustration.,Thanks ! +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,You can see my confusion. Not a stamped mark and no obvious line on body of Oiler. Book makes it seem like it is obvious. I do appreciate your help.,You can see my confusion. Not a stamped mark and no obvious line on body of Oiler. Book makes it seem like it is obvious. I do appreciate your help.,"If I read this right, start out with a new battery." +1987 etlh 70 hp Yamaha. Trying to adjust oil blend lever. Manual says to line up punch mark on pump lever with line on pump body. I can not locate a punch mark. Has anyone tried doing this?,Oh I know that Yamaha data is confusing all right. Lots gets lost in the translation from Jap to English.,Oh I know that Yamaha data is confusing all right. Lots gets lost in the translation from Jap to English.,Absolutely. That helm can pull a slight vacuum. +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!",check the primary and secondry resistance on your ignition coils and compare our readings with cdi electronics chart.,check the primary and secondry resistance on your ignition coils and compare our readings with cdi electronics chart.,Could you supply me with a link on how to do that as well as the chart you are referring to? Thanks for the suggestion. +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!",Could you supply me with a link on how to do that as well as the chart you are referring to? Thanks for the suggestion.,Could you supply me with a link on how to do that as well as the chart you are referring to? Thanks for the suggestion.,"Well, what kind of outboard is it? You can get remote throttle and shift controls for ""most"" of them and a few minor modifications are required. + +When you install a control cable it is best to have a cable long enough to make a fair size loop (usually 18"" circle aka 1/2 meter) and that will allow the cable to work perfect. Controls are available here http://www.marineengine.com/products/accessories.php?g=483 and just be sure to get a proper length cable." +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!","Tegweni said: + + + + check the primary and secondry resistance on your ignition coils and compare our readings with cdi electronics chart. + +Click to expand... + +Could you supply a link on how to do that as well as a link to the chart you reference? Thanks for the suggestion.","Tegweni said: + + + + check the primary and secondry resistance on your ignition coils and compare our readings with cdi electronics chart. + +Click to expand... + +Could you supply a link on how to do that as well as a link to the chart you reference? Thanks for the suggestion.","Yes it sat out on the shoreline, washed up, since October 2018. I just took off the head and it is not pretty. Hoping to save the block for another project Yamaha. When I get home I will try that formula I found on-line with acetone and ATF fluid. It's supposed to be better than Kroil. What do you think, Racer, I value your input?" +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!",http://www.cdielectronics.com/troubleshootingguide/,http://www.cdielectronics.com/troubleshootingguide/,"Soooooo- new headgaskets and head cover gaskets. All the water passages are clean, waterflow is good, and new thermostats are functioning. My IR heat gun shows the head covers at 128 degrees at idle. Both sides show this now, which is good. + +I ran her at about 3000 rpm on the trailer at the ramp last night for 10 minutes - no overheat problem. I think launched her and did a few laps in the area close to the launch. in less than 5 minutes, the overheat alarm came on and the boat went into limp mode. It recovered within 20 seconds when I put her to idle. I couldn't even get the cover off to take a heat reading on the heads before the alarm silenced itself. + +I am beginning to think it is either a bad temp sensor, or a bad poppet valve. I plan to test the heat sensors today. I have a poppet valve on order. I also plan to change out the 4 month old impeller, just in case. + +Any other possible ideas guys? This is getting to be an epic freakin' troubleshoot. + +Rob" +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!","primary between the 2 wires ,secondry between spark plug wire and the wire that comes into the coil the power pack wire plugs into it , sorry i do not have the colours some one will chime in .","primary between the 2 wires ,secondry between spark plug wire and the wire that comes into the coil the power pack wire plugs into it , sorry i do not have the colours some one will chime in .",Are the wires going to the correct plugs? Do a cylinder drop test just pull a plug wire and put it back on while the engine is idleing the engine should respond the same on each wire. A good pair of insulated channellocks will keep you from getting bit. That will tell you what cylinder/s are not firing. +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!","Tegweni said: + + + + primary between the 2 wires ,secondry between spark plug wire and the wire that comes into the coil the power pack wire plugs into it , sorry i do not have the colours some one will chime in . + +Click to expand... + + +i checked the colours on a 1984 the blk/whitestrip wire and black wire are your primary wires and black/white stripe wire and spark plug wire are your secondry wires","Tegweni said: + + + + primary between the 2 wires ,secondry between spark plug wire and the wire that comes into the coil the power pack wire plugs into it , sorry i do not have the colours some one will chime in . + +Click to expand... + + +i checked the colours on a 1984 the blk/whitestrip wire and black wire are your primary wires and black/white stripe wire and spark plug wire are your secondry wires","Looking at a you tube video the tell tale seems to exit at the left rear of the lower cowling. Here is the link + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iw16Uw0pAnk" +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!",Thanks to both of you!,Thanks to both of you!,"There is a jam nut and a coupling nut. No adjustment nut. + +The coupling nut has nothing to do with the shift mechanism. It merely attaches the upper rod to the lower rod. + +The shift rod goes down as I recall to shift into reverse gear. + +Procedure when removing the lower unit is to shift into reverse. For better access to the jam and coupling nut. Just barely loosen the jam nut. Unscrew the coupling nut to separate the upper and lower rods. + + Then remove the lower unit. Do not mess with the shift rod. + +Reinstall the lower unit. Screw the coupling nut to the point where it just touches the jam nut. Hold the coupling nut and tighten the jam nut. Done." +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!",Ok....I took all three off and used two different meters- one analog and one digital. The primary readings when I connected black and black white wires all gene me a complete circuit—-same reading as if I had connected probe ends. Secondary did the opposite—-no reading at all. I tried various ohm scales and still got the same results. What the heck am I doing wrong?,Ok....I took all three off and used two different meters- one analog and one digital. The primary readings when I connected black and black white wires all gene me a complete circuit—-same reading as if I had connected probe ends. Secondary did the opposite—-no reading at all. I tried various ohm scales and still got the same results. What the heck am I doing wrong?,"There is a cold start technique that works for every carb'd Yamaha 2 stroke that I have tried. You need to check that your choke butterflies are properly connected to the manual choke and operating when you pull the choke out. If that is all good, try the following - +1) Pump the primer bulb hard +2) Pull out the choke +3) Put the fast idle lever up to around 1/3rd throttle (if you have the controls with a separate fast idle lever this is about 1"" past the point where it gets hard to move - the initial easy movement doesn't do anything) +4) Wind the engine over to start +5) If it doesn't start after 2 or 3 seconds of winding, try pumping the fuel bulb again and then wind over again" +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!",Have had to work way too much this summer but had a chance to play with pontoon again this past weekend. Everything I have checked has seemed fine so far and I pulled plugs and they seem to be all burning identical. I guess I am back to I must have not gotten carbs cleaned good. One question. Where does idle circuit get over ridden in acceleratio—- or does it? If my idle jets were somehow still a little clogged could that explain why when I am 2/3 throttle or better it runs really smooth? Only other clue is when I go to crank it for first time I must have cold start throttle nearly wide open to get it to hit but runs and cranks fine after that. It needs gas really open to crank after it had been sitting overnight,Have had to work way too much this summer but had a chance to play with pontoon again this past weekend. Everything I have checked has seemed fine so far and I pulled plugs and they seem to be all burning identical. I guess I am back to I must have not gotten carbs cleaned good. One question. Where does idle circuit get over ridden in acceleratio—- or does it? If my idle jets were somehow still a little clogged could that explain why when I am 2/3 throttle or better it runs really smooth? Only other clue is when I go to crank it for first time I must have cold start throttle nearly wide open to get it to hit but runs and cranks fine after that. It needs gas really open to crank after it had been sitting overnight,Saying that you have to rev in nuetral for a while then quickly throttle up before it stalls tell me there are issues.-----------What are the compression numbers on this motor ?-----------And have you tried opening the SLOW SPEED mixture needle 1/2 turn to see what happens ? +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!","Ok. New season and playing with my project again. I rebuilt the carbs, boiled out in ultrasonic, and no difference. I checked compression and all 3 cylinders between 105 and 115, and that is with a weak battery. Cranked and put in gear tied up to dock and pulled one plug off at a time. Could not tell much difference. Ohmed coils and all 3 showed about same resistance but was not range that cdi electronics book showed. I have pickedup some extra coils to experiment with. Boat still runs exactly like it did last year. Cranks fine. Idles fine. Accelerated rough until I get to about 3/4 throttle then smooths out. Thinking perhaps to look at timing again and perhaps oil blend as I am using the Yamaha precision blend system. Not smoking much and plugs not fouling so I am hesitant to mess with it. When I pulled plugs from last year bottom plug was a little blacked than other two. Put new set in and ran about an hour this year and plugs all look same so far. My gut still says carbs but I went thru them with a fine tooth comb three times and all jets crystal clean. Any ideas appreciated!","Ok. New season and playing with my project again. I rebuilt the carbs, boiled out in ultrasonic, and no difference. I checked compression and all 3 cylinders between 105 and 115, and that is with a weak battery. Cranked and put in gear tied up to dock and pulled one plug off at a time. Could not tell much difference. Ohmed coils and all 3 showed about same resistance but was not range that cdi electronics book showed. I have pickedup some extra coils to experiment with. Boat still runs exactly like it did last year. Cranks fine. Idles fine. Accelerated rough until I get to about 3/4 throttle then smooths out. Thinking perhaps to look at timing again and perhaps oil blend as I am using the Yamaha precision blend system. Not smoking much and plugs not fouling so I am hesitant to mess with it. When I pulled plugs from last year bottom plug was a little blacked than other two. Put new set in and ran about an hour this year and plugs all look same so far. My gut still says carbs but I went thru them with a fine tooth comb three times and all jets crystal clean. Any ideas appreciated!","papyson said: + + + + did the tires scallop?or wear smoothly?i think the boat is setting too far back on the trailer...i added trim tabs on a boat and moved the boat back so the tabs would not come up on the trailer runners and the tires scalloped badly in 500 miles... + +Click to expand... + + +Sorry, I missed this one. They were worn smoothly. When he dropped it off at the tire shop today, the tire guys said that the rear tires were hot." +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!",Quick edit I also installed a new fuel pump and fuel filter.,Quick edit I also installed a new fuel pump and fuel filter.,Check all oil lines / fittings.-----Do a compression test and post the numbers.----Check for spark on all leads. +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!","Noticed a slight surging at mid throttle now. Not a strong surge, just enough no notice. Seems to disappear once throttle opened up above 75 percent","Noticed a slight surging at mid throttle now. Not a strong surge, just enough no notice. Seems to disappear once throttle opened up above 75 percent",Looks very well done to me. Good Job! +"I have a 1987 2 stroke 70 hp Yamaha outboard that sat several years before I got it. Compression 130,130, 125. I cleaned carbs well getting all jets open. Put new fuel pump and fuel lines on. Replaced water pump. It cranks and idles great. It runs very smooth from 2/3 idle up, and if backed down once it accelerates it runs smooth at about half throttle up. I set the carbs according to manual (I think 1 5/8–but don’t have book in front of me now) and have tried tuning carbs about 1/2 round in each direction with no change in idle or performance noted. Have tried 2 new sets of plugs gapped to proper specs with no difference. My problem is a rough acceleration up to point pontoon planes—-or as much as a pontoon planes. Engine almost sounds like it is skipping. I have a very flat pitch prop (11) so even thou it is a big pontoon should push it ok. If I gun the engine to 2/3 on takeoff it does fine, but I am hoping someone can clue me in on what I have missed. I did not buy carb kits—-as they are pretty pricy and my gaskets all appeared fine—so I realize that may be an issue. Appreciate the Yamaha outboard gurus pointing me in right direction!",After chasing this for a year I think I finally found my main issue. Linkage was not adjusted correctly and throttle was not opening but halfway. The linkage with timing was advancing timing too early. Hope this helps someone else!,After chasing this for a year I think I finally found my main issue. Linkage was not adjusted correctly and throttle was not opening but halfway. The linkage with timing was advancing timing too early. Hope this helps someone else!,"Is this a new issue? The gear grind is one thing, the acceleration when in reverse gear is another. Check gear oil since having this issue?" +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","Why do you feel the need for a regulator? The current output from your lighting coil is so low that 16.2 volts is not going to harm your battery. + +Or is the problem that 16.2 volts is causing your electronics to shut down? + +Almost any motorcycle permanent magnet generator rectifier/regulator should work. For instance + +https://www.google.com/search?q=mot...ILQ&biw=1396&bih=657#spd=12616426964993993863 + +https://www.ebay.com/p/6660123-SPI-01-154-16-Rectifier-Voltage-Regulator/1439885554?iid=312452681103","Why do you feel the need for a regulator? The current output from your lighting coil is so low that 16.2 volts is not going to harm your battery. + +Or is the problem that 16.2 volts is causing your electronics to shut down? + +Almost any motorcycle permanent magnet generator rectifier/regulator should work. For instance + +https://www.google.com/search?q=mot...ILQ&biw=1396&bih=657#spd=12616426964993993863 + +https://www.ebay.com/p/6660123-SPI-01-154-16-Rectifier-Voltage-Regulator/1439885554?iid=312452681103","Thanks again, I will follow your advice and use the service manual you sent me to adjust timing. +However, I think I found the intake vacuum hoses. (see photo). They were all painted blue (like the engine) and hard to see, so if I have trouble trying to measure the timing linkages as described in the manual, then I may try to find some gauges and use these vacuum tubes for further refinement. +Thanks a lot. +Your the best. +Jim" +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + Why do you feel the need for a regulator? The current output from your lighting coil is so low that 16.2 volts is not going to harm your battery. + +Or is the problem that 16.2 volts is causing your electronics to shut down? + +Almost any motorcycle permanent magnet generator rectifier/regulator should work. For instance + +https://www.google.com/search?q=mot...ILQ&biw=1396&bih=657#spd=12616426964993993863 + +https://www.ebay.com/p/6660123-SPI-01-154-16-Rectifier-Voltage-Regulator/1439885554?iid=312452681103 + +Click to expand... + + + +I am worried that I would damage my electronics. They have never shut down or acted strangely, but until now, I never realized the older engines have no voltage regulator. Electricity is my weakest area of understanding as to how too many volts would affect my more expensive(at least to me) electronics. If it won't affect it, then I won't do anything. These are my first yamahas, but also my newest motors in my boating/fishing career.","boscoe said: + + + + Why do you feel the need for a regulator? The current output from your lighting coil is so low that 16.2 volts is not going to harm your battery. + +Or is the problem that 16.2 volts is causing your electronics to shut down? + +Almost any motorcycle permanent magnet generator rectifier/regulator should work. For instance + +https://www.google.com/search?q=mot...ILQ&biw=1396&bih=657#spd=12616426964993993863 + +https://www.ebay.com/p/6660123-SPI-01-154-16-Rectifier-Voltage-Regulator/1439885554?iid=312452681103 + +Click to expand... + + + +I am worried that I would damage my electronics. They have never shut down or acted strangely, but until now, I never realized the older engines have no voltage regulator. Electricity is my weakest area of understanding as to how too many volts would affect my more expensive(at least to me) electronics. If it won't affect it, then I won't do anything. These are my first yamahas, but also my newest motors in my boating/fishing career.",Any codes coming up? +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","I'm not sure i would add a regulator for 16V, but it is higher than the normal 14-14.5 charging voltage of larger systems + +Your electronics should specific an allowable voltage range, for example, my Lowrance GPS/Fishfinder allows 10-17 VDC. If you are outside of what your equipment is rated for, I would consider the regulator. + +Terry","I'm not sure i would add a regulator for 16V, but it is higher than the normal 14-14.5 charging voltage of larger systems + +Your electronics should specific an allowable voltage range, for example, my Lowrance GPS/Fishfinder allows 10-17 VDC. If you are outside of what your equipment is rated for, I would consider the regulator. + +Terry",It's a Johnson outboard. I actually think this may have started when I unhooked the Very Retarded Oiler system and started mixing in tank before it had a chance to destroy my engine. Maybe I unhooked something else I shouldn't have? +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","tdrudd87 said: + + + + I'm not sure i would add a regulator for 16V, but it is higher than the normal 14-14.5 charging voltage of larger systems + +Your electronics should specific an allowable voltage range, for example, my Lowrance GPS/Fishfinder allows 10-17 VDC. If you are outside of what your equipment is rated for, I would consider the regulator. + +Terry + +Click to expand... + + +I took it out today and it went over 17 at WOT. I will check my Helix 7 voltage range. I don't mind putting in a regulator, but mine has a lot more wires than the links posted by boscoe. I am mostly worried about messing up and breaking something else. I never worried before I installed a voltmeter in the dash on this boat and I think it was possible that my last motor was putting out a lot of volts. Sometimes, knowing about something makes it more likely to break.","tdrudd87 said: + + + + I'm not sure i would add a regulator for 16V, but it is higher than the normal 14-14.5 charging voltage of larger systems + +Your electronics should specific an allowable voltage range, for example, my Lowrance GPS/Fishfinder allows 10-17 VDC. If you are outside of what your equipment is rated for, I would consider the regulator. + +Terry + +Click to expand... + + +I took it out today and it went over 17 at WOT. I will check my Helix 7 voltage range. I don't mind putting in a regulator, but mine has a lot more wires than the links posted by boscoe. I am mostly worried about messing up and breaking something else. I never worried before I installed a voltmeter in the dash on this boat and I think it was possible that my last motor was putting out a lot of volts. Sometimes, knowing about something makes it more likely to break.","ok. Wiring was correct atleast. I will add on the extra ground. I hooked my DVM to the battery terminals, revved it up to about 2000 rpms and held it there but battery did not seem to be rising above 12.08v. Maybe the break-even point is higher than I thought? +Was not running any extra accessories at the time. It wasn't really loosing any voltage though..." +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","I looked it up and it takes from 10-20V input power. So, I think I am safe. Whew! I just need to make sure I don't buy maintenance free batteries when I need to buy batteries.","I looked it up and it takes from 10-20V input power. So, I think I am safe. Whew! I just need to make sure I don't buy maintenance free batteries when I need to buy batteries.","Lloyd Tucker said: + + + + There a black wire on the rectifier that’s is getting hot and if I unhook it my fuse will blow. +the black wire runs from rectifier to ground. +is my rectifier bad? +is my black wire bad? + +Click to expand... + + +I unhooked my control box and my trim motor to see if they where the one with short but still blowing fuses. Everything I’m down to is this black wire on rectifier block. I wish I could find a wiring schematic for this boat" +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","bama said: + + + + I looked it up and it takes from 10-20V input power. So, I think I am safe. Whew! I just need to make sure I don't buy maintenance free batteries when I need to buy batteries. + +Click to expand... + +??? ???","bama said: + + + + I looked it up and it takes from 10-20V input power. So, I think I am safe. Whew! I just need to make sure I don't buy maintenance free batteries when I need to buy batteries. + +Click to expand... + +??? ???","Sounds like the carburetor is set too lean on the low speed mixture screw.-------These carburetors have tiny passage ways that can be difficult to find to clean them.-----And what do your "" mechanics "" tell you needs to be done ??" +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","bama said: + + + + I took it out today and it went over 17 at WOT. I will check my Helix 7 voltage range. I don't mind putting in a regulator, but mine has a lot more wires than the links posted by boscoe. I am mostly worried about messing up and breaking something else. I never worried before I installed a voltmeter in the dash on this boat and I think it was possible that my last motor was putting out a lot of volts. Sometimes, knowing about something makes it more likely to break. + +Click to expand... + +Your lighting coil has but two wires. Both green. Two wires into the rectifier/regulator and two wires (one black, one red) out.","bama said: + + + + I took it out today and it went over 17 at WOT. I will check my Helix 7 voltage range. I don't mind putting in a regulator, but mine has a lot more wires than the links posted by boscoe. I am mostly worried about messing up and breaking something else. I never worried before I installed a voltmeter in the dash on this boat and I think it was possible that my last motor was putting out a lot of volts. Sometimes, knowing about something makes it more likely to break. + +Click to expand... + +Your lighting coil has but two wires. Both green. Two wires into the rectifier/regulator and two wires (one black, one red) out.","I will assume you are talking about a fiberglass hull. + +The small holes and missing gel coat can/will let water/moisture into the fiberglass layers. + +Contrary to what the boat companies would have you believe, fiberglass will (rot) just like wood if it gets and stays wet. The layers of fiberglass can delaminate. Also, many fiberglass boats are not 100% fiberglass. The (inner core) is often plywood or balsa wood (recent construction has replaced this with other materials which is reflected in the higher cost), so if there is some wood core it can rot inside the fiberglass - not a good thing. + +Patching holes and repairing the gel coat is not rocket science but it is a messy, time consuming job. There are a number of products on the market that you can use for the repairs. + +To see if you are up to the job yourself I would suggest you get ahold of the small booklet produced by WEST System called ""fiberglass boat repair and maintenance"". It's about 90 pages and sells for somewhat less than 5 bucks (available at West Marine or other vendors that carry West System products). + +It has a chapters on repairing ""damaged skins"" and ""core related damage"". + +Gel Coat is not like regular paint and is integral in protecting the fiberglass, so in this particular case I think I would tend to 1) address the holes with either epoxy (West system product or one of the various others - EAST, MAS, System 3 etc) or a polyester resin product (similar to automotive products like Bondo) and then 2) sand and repaint the entire bottom and other areas of gel coat damage with a non-anti-fouling paint (such as VC performance epoxy by Interlux). + +To have a yard or boat shop undertake what needs to be done I would expect your quotes to start in the 2K range (without seeing all that needs to be done) and if there is any rot in the hull, the price could skyrocket from there." +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + Your lighting coil has but two wires. Both green. Two wires into the rectifier/regulator and two wires (one black, one red) out. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, but what about the other wires on the rectifier? I would assume I leave the one that sends the AC signal to the tach plugged in from the lighting coil. But, there are several wires coming out of my rectifier that I don't know what they do. I am assuming this is the rectifier.","boscoe said: + + + + Your lighting coil has but two wires. Both green. Two wires into the rectifier/regulator and two wires (one black, one red) out. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, but what about the other wires on the rectifier? I would assume I leave the one that sends the AC signal to the tach plugged in from the lighting coil. But, there are several wires coming out of my rectifier that I don't know what they do. I am assuming this is the rectifier.","Try running sea form in it, check the spark plugs. 20 hours at putter speed will build up carbon." +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.",Here is what the rectifier looks like.,Here is what the rectifier looks like.,A branded boat deserves an expensive cover. +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + Here is what the rectifier looks like. + + + + +Click to expand... + +boscoe....you are very patient and I thank you for it. I completely understand what you are saying now. I very much appreciate it!","boscoe said: + + + + Here is what the rectifier looks like. + + + + +Click to expand... + +boscoe....you are very patient and I thank you for it. I completely understand what you are saying now. I very much appreciate it!","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + +http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Un..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item51a753bb1a&vxp=mtr +Are you sure the tube did not just fall off the fitting. Can you pull the fitting off the other tank and upgrade both at the same time? + +Click to expand... + + +Both side are welded in and are the tubes are both steel. I'm borrowing an angle drill today and will drill them out and install new ones. + +Thanks to everyone for their help." +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","bama said: + + + + boscoe....you are very patient and I thank you for it. I completely understand what you are saying now. I very much appreciate it! + +Click to expand... + +I ordered 2 of the rectifier/regulators that you gave me a link for. Thanks, again.","bama said: + + + + boscoe....you are very patient and I thank you for it. I completely understand what you are saying now. I very much appreciate it! + +Click to expand... + +I ordered 2 of the rectifier/regulators that you gave me a link for. Thanks, again.",It's going into aluminum. I'm worried about the screws popping out. And wollering out the holes More than anything +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","I have had exactly the same concerns about my 2007 40 XWT. WOT sees about 16volts on my dash voltmeter, confirmed with an external meter. That really is too much for most electronics and globes etc. I found a service manual so that I could do some checks and was a bit surprised to see that the specs quote the following voltages. Cranking 3.5 Volts, 1500 rpm 13 Volts, 3500 rpm 30 volts. This is out of the rectifier, being the black and red wires. I know lots about 4stroke/car systems and electronics is my profession, but still coming up to speed on 2 strokes and magnetos. These voltages just seem crazy and i am surprised that any electronics survive. The comment about maintenance free batteries is valid, they will be damaged by these voltages compared to ones that you can simply top up with water. I plan to do some more research on this but will appreciate comments and input to enlighten me as to how we get away (and we certainly seem to) with such voltages. It seems very odd to me that the output is not regulated.","I have had exactly the same concerns about my 2007 40 XWT. WOT sees about 16volts on my dash voltmeter, confirmed with an external meter. That really is too much for most electronics and globes etc. I found a service manual so that I could do some checks and was a bit surprised to see that the specs quote the following voltages. Cranking 3.5 Volts, 1500 rpm 13 Volts, 3500 rpm 30 volts. This is out of the rectifier, being the black and red wires. I know lots about 4stroke/car systems and electronics is my profession, but still coming up to speed on 2 strokes and magnetos. These voltages just seem crazy and i am surprised that any electronics survive. The comment about maintenance free batteries is valid, they will be damaged by these voltages compared to ones that you can simply top up with water. I plan to do some more research on this but will appreciate comments and input to enlighten me as to how we get away (and we certainly seem to) with such voltages. It seems very odd to me that the output is not regulated.","boscoe said: + + + + Yamaha service manuals do not contain part numbers for spare parts. That is the purpose of the parts catalog. Tool part numbers are included. + +I am not understanding the comment about the Yamaha USA website being nonfunctional. I just took a look. + + + + + +Click to expand... + + +I was trying this link....https://www.shopyamaha.com/yamalube-products/yamalube-for-outboard?ls=Outboard + +It's the link for ""Shop Yamalube Maintenance and Care Products""" +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","Another thing to consider especially if considering fitting a regulator as suggested by bama ,is that 12 volts is also incorrect for battery charging. During charging up to around 14.5 volts is fine (this figure is less for a sealed maintenance free version, a battery will sit at around 12.6 when fully charged. Many of the ebay regulators simply quote the output at 12 volts, this is not really going to get the job done.","Another thing to consider especially if considering fitting a regulator as suggested by bama ,is that 12 volts is also incorrect for battery charging. During charging up to around 14.5 volts is fine (this figure is less for a sealed maintenance free version, a battery will sit at around 12.6 when fully charged. Many of the ebay regulators simply quote the output at 12 volts, this is not really going to get the job done.",It's 5 +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","Sorry about multiple posts, but I am researching this on the fly. I see that there are many threads over a lot of years on this topic and the bottom line is that certain of the yamaha models( I am new to the brand) have rectifiers only and no regulator. Is there typically a plug in yamaha rectifier/regulator that can solve this problem or do we need to go aftermarket? I am also getting the impression that for most of the time we just get away with it. Shame to find out that we cannot always get away with it when some electronics is fried.","Sorry about multiple posts, but I am researching this on the fly. I see that there are many threads over a lot of years on this topic and the bottom line is that certain of the yamaha models( I am new to the brand) have rectifiers only and no regulator. Is there typically a plug in yamaha rectifier/regulator that can solve this problem or do we need to go aftermarket? I am also getting the impression that for most of the time we just get away with it. Shame to find out that we cannot always get away with it when some electronics is fried.",i checked and two of the mechanical fuel pumps were leaking. Went a head and replaced all three since i had it apart. went and did a test run yesterday and it was a lot better but still cutting out(surging) at lower speeds(3500 rpm's). Have to work until Thursday so I'll have to wait until then to do anymore troubleshooting. Want to say thanks for the help though.​ +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","cellmate2121 said: + + + + I have had exactly the same concerns about my 2007 40 XWT. WOT sees about 16volts on my dash voltmeter, confirmed with an external meter. That really is too much for most electronics and globes etc. I found a service manual so that I could do some checks and was a bit surprised to see that the specs quote the following voltages. Cranking 3.5 Volts, 1500 rpm 13 Volts, 3500 rpm 30 volts. This is out of the rectifier, being the black and red wires. I know lots about 4stroke/car systems and electronics is my profession, but still coming up to speed on 2 strokes and magnetos. These voltages just seem crazy and i am surprised that any electronics survive. The comment about maintenance free batteries is valid, they will be damaged by these voltages compared to ones that you can simply top up with water. I plan to do some more research on this but will appreciate comments and input to enlighten me as to how we get away (and we certainly seem to) with such voltages. It seems very odd to me that the output is not regulated. + +Click to expand... + +What service manual and what page of the service manual lists the voltages you are mentioning? I suspect that you are confusing a charge coil output voltage with a lighting coil output voltage.","cellmate2121 said: + + + + I have had exactly the same concerns about my 2007 40 XWT. WOT sees about 16volts on my dash voltmeter, confirmed with an external meter. That really is too much for most electronics and globes etc. I found a service manual so that I could do some checks and was a bit surprised to see that the specs quote the following voltages. Cranking 3.5 Volts, 1500 rpm 13 Volts, 3500 rpm 30 volts. This is out of the rectifier, being the black and red wires. I know lots about 4stroke/car systems and electronics is my profession, but still coming up to speed on 2 strokes and magnetos. These voltages just seem crazy and i am surprised that any electronics survive. The comment about maintenance free batteries is valid, they will be damaged by these voltages compared to ones that you can simply top up with water. I plan to do some more research on this but will appreciate comments and input to enlighten me as to how we get away (and we certainly seem to) with such voltages. It seems very odd to me that the output is not regulated. + +Click to expand... + +What service manual and what page of the service manual lists the voltages you are mentioning? I suspect that you are confusing a charge coil output voltage with a lighting coil output voltage.",I didn't take pick up out I guess next step was also going to change fuel line to motor the inner lining seems to have separated from fuel line +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","cellmate2121 said: + + + + Another thing to consider especially if considering fitting a regulator as suggested by bama ,is that 12 volts is also incorrect for battery charging. During charging up to around 14.5 volts is fine (this figure is less for a sealed maintenance free version, a battery will sit at around 12.6 when fully charged. Many of the ebay regulators simply quote the output at 12 volts, this is not really going to get the job done. + +Click to expand... + +The regulators are nominally stated as 12 volts. Part of a 12 volt system. The R/R actually output nominally 14.5 ~ 16 volts. + +There is more to electricity than voltage. There is also current. In the smaller Yams even though the voltage appears to be high the current is minuscule. Not enough to harm a lead acid battery. Flooded, maintenance free flooded or AGM type.","cellmate2121 said: + + + + Another thing to consider especially if considering fitting a regulator as suggested by bama ,is that 12 volts is also incorrect for battery charging. During charging up to around 14.5 volts is fine (this figure is less for a sealed maintenance free version, a battery will sit at around 12.6 when fully charged. Many of the ebay regulators simply quote the output at 12 volts, this is not really going to get the job done. + +Click to expand... + +The regulators are nominally stated as 12 volts. Part of a 12 volt system. The R/R actually output nominally 14.5 ~ 16 volts. + +There is more to electricity than voltage. There is also current. In the smaller Yams even though the voltage appears to be high the current is minuscule. Not enough to harm a lead acid battery. Flooded, maintenance free flooded or AGM type.","Turning the shaft without the impeller in place will of course require less effort on your part to turn. This is because without the impeller, the blades are not spinning against the inner wall housing. As I'm sure you noticed when handling the new impeller, it's quite stiff, as it should be. When impeller is in place, and you turn shaft, you should definitely be applying more effort on your part to turn. I would triple check you have ordered the correct impeller kit. If good, i would then be certain the impeller is engaged with the woodruff key. You can verify this before installing the housing by turnong the shaft. If the impeller turns when you turn shaft, it's good. Reinstall lower unit, hook up muffs, start engine and observe the tell tale. You should see water exiting a few seconds after engine ignition, if not immediately. If you do, you're good to go." +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + The regulators are nominally stated as 12 volts. Part of a 12 volt system. The R/R actually output nominally 14.5 ~ 16 volts. + +There is more to electricity than voltage. There is also current. In the smaller Yams even though the voltage appears to be high the current is minuscule. Not enough to harm a lead acid battery. Flooded, maintenance free flooded or AGM type. + +Click to expand... + + + +Hi boscoe, +I got the regulators and will put them on this weekend. I was hoping I could ask one more electrical question. Since I have the twin 40hp engines, I have 2 batteries...one for each motor. Is it possible to run both motors off of one battery or would the double charging mess the battery or the charging system up?","boscoe said: + + + + The regulators are nominally stated as 12 volts. Part of a 12 volt system. The R/R actually output nominally 14.5 ~ 16 volts. + +There is more to electricity than voltage. There is also current. In the smaller Yams even though the voltage appears to be high the current is minuscule. Not enough to harm a lead acid battery. Flooded, maintenance free flooded or AGM type. + +Click to expand... + + + +Hi boscoe, +I got the regulators and will put them on this weekend. I was hoping I could ask one more electrical question. Since I have the twin 40hp engines, I have 2 batteries...one for each motor. Is it possible to run both motors off of one battery or would the double charging mess the battery or the charging system up?","Then heat only the top. +As you work it, hit the bottom with ice to keep the grease hard +and try to make the grease flow up. + +In severe cases you might have to add more zerks. +One at the top and one at the bottom, before they get the zerks installed, you can heat +and then blow out the grease with compressed air. +Be real careful as the grease if hot can really shoot a LONG way. +It took a friend a week of washing his hair to finally get the grease out." +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","bama said: + + + + Hi boscoe, +I got the regulators and will put them on this weekend. I was hoping I could ask one more electrical question. Since I have the twin 40hp engines, I have 2 batteries...one for each motor. Is it possible to run both motors off of one battery or would the double charging mess the battery or the charging system up? + +Click to expand... + +You can do what you suggest. Run both motors with but one battery connected. Unconventional but not impossible. Not sure why you would want to but... + +With the motors running current is coming out of the regulators. The way that the regulators are designed prevents current from flowing back through the regulator to the motor.","bama said: + + + + Hi boscoe, +I got the regulators and will put them on this weekend. I was hoping I could ask one more electrical question. Since I have the twin 40hp engines, I have 2 batteries...one for each motor. Is it possible to run both motors off of one battery or would the double charging mess the battery or the charging system up? + +Click to expand... + +You can do what you suggest. Run both motors with but one battery connected. Unconventional but not impossible. Not sure why you would want to but... + +With the motors running current is coming out of the regulators. The way that the regulators are designed prevents current from flowing back through the regulator to the motor.",..... +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + You can do what you suggest. Run both motors with but one battery connected. Unconventional but not impossible. Not sure why you would want to but... + +With the motors running current is coming out of the regulators. The way that the regulators are designed prevents current from flowing back through the regulator to the motor. + +Click to expand... + + + +I don't plan on it, but was more curious as to if it could be done. I now know that if I had a battery that died on me, that I could add the other motor leads to the one battery to get both motors to work...to get me home. + +Brad","boscoe said: + + + + You can do what you suggest. Run both motors with but one battery connected. Unconventional but not impossible. Not sure why you would want to but... + +With the motors running current is coming out of the regulators. The way that the regulators are designed prevents current from flowing back through the regulator to the motor. + +Click to expand... + + + +I don't plan on it, but was more curious as to if it could be done. I now know that if I had a battery that died on me, that I could add the other motor leads to the one battery to get both motors to work...to get me home. + +Brad","Preferably....drain the tank, air and dry it out for winter storage. Siphon fuel into cans and mix in stabilizer. However, I must say you'd never catch me using 6 month old fuel, regardless of its stabilizer mixing. Using old fuel will cause far more dollars in repairs than the $100 you'd lose by disposing of the fuel." +"I tested the boat out for the first time since I bought it. I added a voltmeter to it and the motor connected to it reads 16.2 at WOT. I can't find anywhere that sells a voltage regulator for these motors(1985 ELTK 40 hp). So, can I put both motors on the same battery and disconnect the lighting coil wires going to the rectifier so I am only running one rectifier to charge a battery and then use the other battery as a stand alone unit...no motor connection, for my sensitive electronics? + +If I can do this, can I still get my tach to work if I just disconnect the wires heading to the rectifier? + +OR....can someone help me figure a way to add a voltage regulator. I am not afraid of learning a new skill, have access to plate aluminum and know how to TIG and solder. + +I am not running a maintenance free battery. I can add water, but am worried about the Helix 7 I have getting fried. That being said, I was using a 1977 Johnson 55 for 3 years, probably in blissful ignorance of the overcharging issue. My last starting battery lasted 8 years. + +Thanks.","I have put on the regulators and everything works great! Much appreciated, boscoe!","I have put on the regulators and everything works great! Much appreciated, boscoe!",You better change it! It is totally damage. +"Looking to purchase a trim gauge for my 2019 F70. I know the gauge is a white face 6Y7. What harness do I need? Any instructions or pictures to aid in installation? Thanks. + +Greg","mill686 said: + + + +Looking to purchase a trim gauge for my 2019 F70. I know the gauge is a white face 6Y7. What harness do I need? Any instructions or pictures to aid in installation? Thanks. + +Greg + +Click to expand... + +How many times do you want to be given the answer?","mill686 said: + + + +Looking to purchase a trim gauge for my 2019 F70. I know the gauge is a white face 6Y7. What harness do I need? Any instructions or pictures to aid in installation? Thanks. + +Greg + +Click to expand... + +How many times do you want to be given the answer?","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,..... Actually, a stand-pipe drain is the best,....... + +Otherwise, the bait tries to swim out the drain tube, or with a screen over it, the screen gets clogged with the bait's shed scales,...... + +Click to expand... + + I've decided to use a 40quart w/ a 500GPH this drain in upper side of cooler. +https://www.amazon.com/Marine-ODT-1-DP-Overflow-Drain-Tube/dp/B0000AXQSQ + +I was planning a drain tube (just a tube) near top of cooler, use 800GPH to fill tank then use 500GPH to momentarily recirculate. + +here's the cooler LW" +"Looking to purchase a trim gauge for my 2019 F70. I know the gauge is a white face 6Y7. What harness do I need? Any instructions or pictures to aid in installation? Thanks. + +Greg","boscoe said: + + + + How many times do you want to be given the answer? + +Click to expand... + + +Just using all my resources. Thanks for the diagram on the Yamaha site.","boscoe said: + + + + How many times do you want to be given the answer? + +Click to expand... + + +Just using all my resources. Thanks for the diagram on the Yamaha site.","Sounds like your lower unit may have been damaged. When you pull it see if it will shift, if it will not you will need to tear into it or replace the lower unit. The gears could be rusted up or damaged. This is not the easiest task to fix a lower unit correctly, but it can be done if you know your way around this sort of thing." +"Hi, New to this forum with a question around Yami carbs on the 115tlrc. Motor is running lean and running rough when off idle and before mains kick in. (verified by pulling choke out during its misbehavior and it smooths right out). Anyway, simple fix normally would be to turn out the idle mix a 1/2 turn or so.... BUT....... where the idle mix screws are suppose to be there are plugs in the hole, not a screw and spring. Anyone else have this? If so, how do you mix correctly? I am 1/2 tempted to see of those plugs come out, and if its threaded for the screws, but man, if I am wrong, then I just created a project I do not want to get into.... Any advice appreciated.",,,"maybe you need a new fuel filter, but what do you mean by the bulb doesn't get hard? you're talking about the primer bulb?" +"Hi, New to this forum with a question around Yami carbs on the 115tlrc. Motor is running lean and running rough when off idle and before mains kick in. (verified by pulling choke out during its misbehavior and it smooths right out). Anyway, simple fix normally would be to turn out the idle mix a 1/2 turn or so.... BUT....... where the idle mix screws are suppose to be there are plugs in the hole, not a screw and spring. Anyone else have this? If so, how do you mix correctly? I am 1/2 tempted to see of those plugs come out, and if its threaded for the screws, but man, if I am wrong, then I just created a project I do not want to get into.... Any advice appreciated.","That is an EPA tamper resistant plug. You take a small drill bit and carefully just drill through the plug. Use a wood screw to screw into the plug so that a pair of pliers can be used to remove the screw with the plug. + +Count the number of turns that it takes to screw each screw in until it is lightly seated. Write the number of turns in your service manual for future reference. + +If the motor is running poorly, just turning the idle mixture screws is probably not going to do it. I suspect that the carburetors will need to be dismantled and thoroughly cleaned in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. Then all passageways and orifices inspected and verified to be free and clear. + +Reinstall the idle mixture screws based on the settings that you determined and recorded.","That is an EPA tamper resistant plug. You take a small drill bit and carefully just drill through the plug. Use a wood screw to screw into the plug so that a pair of pliers can be used to remove the screw with the plug. + +Count the number of turns that it takes to screw each screw in until it is lightly seated. Write the number of turns in your service manual for future reference. + +If the motor is running poorly, just turning the idle mixture screws is probably not going to do it. I suspect that the carburetors will need to be dismantled and thoroughly cleaned in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. Then all passageways and orifices inspected and verified to be free and clear. + +Reinstall the idle mixture screws based on the settings that you determined and recorded.",check out these guys fiberglasssupplydepot.com or give them a call 772-464-0808 they really know there stuff and they have good pricing and all sorts of different matts and cloths. Danny is awesome when it comes to advice for your rebuild. He helped me with a 30ft scarab rebuild. from stringers to deck to transom everything was replaced on this boat and looks beatiful so far View attachment 6090 not yet finished but getting there. +"Hi, New to this forum with a question around Yami carbs on the 115tlrc. Motor is running lean and running rough when off idle and before mains kick in. (verified by pulling choke out during its misbehavior and it smooths right out). Anyway, simple fix normally would be to turn out the idle mix a 1/2 turn or so.... BUT....... where the idle mix screws are suppose to be there are plugs in the hole, not a screw and spring. Anyone else have this? If so, how do you mix correctly? I am 1/2 tempted to see of those plugs come out, and if its threaded for the screws, but man, if I am wrong, then I just created a project I do not want to get into.... Any advice appreciated.",click to enlarge,click to enlarge,"kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Drill large hole with a hole saw in the soft spot and see if there is foam down there. If you dont remove all of the water your just putting a bandaid on a dirty sore it will just get worse. You must remove all the dryrot and wetfoam then you can put it back together. Tap around the deck snd transom with a hammer you willknow where the dryrot is by the sound. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for your reply. I guess my question is more like a conformation. There are two drain holes on the deck in front of the bench, prt and strb and does not have a hose attached that I can see and wondering if not would there be weep holes throughout the stringers and bulkhead and drain to the pan at the transom? If so wouldn't the bulkhead and stringers be in cased in glass and if they were they should be in better shape than the deck? thanks" +"Hi, New to this forum with a question around Yami carbs on the 115tlrc. Motor is running lean and running rough when off idle and before mains kick in. (verified by pulling choke out during its misbehavior and it smooths right out). Anyway, simple fix normally would be to turn out the idle mix a 1/2 turn or so.... BUT....... where the idle mix screws are suppose to be there are plugs in the hole, not a screw and spring. Anyone else have this? If so, how do you mix correctly? I am 1/2 tempted to see of those plugs come out, and if its threaded for the screws, but man, if I am wrong, then I just created a project I do not want to get into.... Any advice appreciated.",,,Fuse on the motor would be my first guess. +"Hi, New to this forum with a question around Yami carbs on the 115tlrc. Motor is running lean and running rough when off idle and before mains kick in. (verified by pulling choke out during its misbehavior and it smooths right out). Anyway, simple fix normally would be to turn out the idle mix a 1/2 turn or so.... BUT....... where the idle mix screws are suppose to be there are plugs in the hole, not a screw and spring. Anyone else have this? If so, how do you mix correctly? I am 1/2 tempted to see of those plugs come out, and if its threaded for the screws, but man, if I am wrong, then I just created a project I do not want to get into.... Any advice appreciated.","Thanks, Gotta love EPA. not. Sorry, but a simple tuning effort now has to have me deal with getting to those plugs and removing them. aka. partial disassembly. Bet the geniuses who thought of this ""solution"" went on to invent that cripple mode for diesel engines if the system determines the DEF fluid ran dry. Nothing like being stranded in the middle of nowhere when THAT system fails. (yup, happened).","Thanks, Gotta love EPA. not. Sorry, but a simple tuning effort now has to have me deal with getting to those plugs and removing them. aka. partial disassembly. Bet the geniuses who thought of this ""solution"" went on to invent that cripple mode for diesel engines if the system determines the DEF fluid ran dry. Nothing like being stranded in the middle of nowhere when THAT system fails. (yup, happened).","Hey Josh, Have you received any info on your issue? +I have the same problem except i noticed water blowing at the ramp and just brought her home.I also noticed bubbles from lower exhaust. A mechanic that happened to be launching also at the time said if you have bubbles, water is getting into the dry exhaust and it is a gasket problem and the power head needs to be pulled to repair. +I have the same engines with 256hrs. I purchased the boat last year with 152hrs.I have not replaced water pumps or stats yet, only filters and oils." +"Hi, New to this forum with a question around Yami carbs on the 115tlrc. Motor is running lean and running rough when off idle and before mains kick in. (verified by pulling choke out during its misbehavior and it smooths right out). Anyway, simple fix normally would be to turn out the idle mix a 1/2 turn or so.... BUT....... where the idle mix screws are suppose to be there are plugs in the hole, not a screw and spring. Anyone else have this? If so, how do you mix correctly? I am 1/2 tempted to see of those plugs come out, and if its threaded for the screws, but man, if I am wrong, then I just created a project I do not want to get into.... Any advice appreciated.","Not sure what the issue is. Remove the carburetors. Remove the EPA plug. Remove the idle mixture screws after counting and recording the number of turns to get them lightly seated. Fully dismantle the carburetors. Clean them in a heated ultrasonic cleaner using a good cleaning solution. Rod out all passage ways and orifices. Verify those are free and clear. Reassemble and set the screws back to the factory setting. Sync and link the carburetors. + +Turning a screw while hoping to compensate for some internal debris is not an acceptable solution IMO.","Not sure what the issue is. Remove the carburetors. Remove the EPA plug. Remove the idle mixture screws after counting and recording the number of turns to get them lightly seated. Fully dismantle the carburetors. Clean them in a heated ultrasonic cleaner using a good cleaning solution. Rod out all passage ways and orifices. Verify those are free and clear. Reassemble and set the screws back to the factory setting. Sync and link the carburetors. + +Turning a screw while hoping to compensate for some internal debris is not an acceptable solution IMO.","I figured the weight of the engine would be putting pressure on the tube and that because of that it couldn't just be pushed (or pounded) out, but Chris you're saying that based on your experience that's not the case, yes?" +"I've got twin '95 SWS 200s on my boat (200txrt & L200txrt) and this is not the first time I've dealt with troubleshooting an alarm buzzer. + +First time: I was out fishing in moderate rolling seas. When I started to head back in, the alarm would go off every time I came down hard on a wave and the engines would go into limp mode. I would throttle back to neutral, the alarm would turn off and I could resume running...until the boat hit hard again. My engines were oil injected but that feature was deleted by one the previous owners. So I went through all the steps to verify it wasn't overheating. Then I made sure the low oil sensor to the old injection feature wasn't being tripped. All checked out. I later found out that it had to do with loose battery connections. Turns out my batteries (one for each motor & two house) were not tied down well enough so when the boat was getting tossed around the terminal nuts were backing off and the engines were receiving intermittent current. This was throwing an alarm because the oil injection system wasn't receiving its normal power, continuously (even though it's not being used, it can still talk to the main ECUs). Anyway, a homemade battery box/bracket and an old ratchet strap fixed that problem, so far. + +This time: Everything functions normally except when I'm running over 3000 RPM and I try to adjust the trim switch. After hitting the switch, the same thing happens. Alarm, limp mode, shift to neutral, resuming running normally. Today, I figured out that it's only the port motor's switch that tripping the alarm. I can trim the starboard motor while running all day but if the port motor's tilt/trim is engaged, the alarm sounds. + +Based off my past experiences with this, I wanted to blame it on my batteries. They were 4 years old so it wasn't impossible for them to be dying on me. Which made sense because dying batteries may not be able to supply enough current for ignition and tilt/trim at the same time. So I got brand new batteries for each motor and left them on the ProSport charger until it said they were full. Took the boat out again and it was still doing it. + +Does anyone have any further insight on what might be causing this? I'm scratching my head on this one.",It is a voltage issue. Or a lack thereof. Does not have to be the batteries. There are many connections between the battery and the motor. The trim tilt pump motor running is taking electrical power away from the motor. The battery needs to step up and provide power to the motor. If the power can't get there then the motor may stumble.,It is a voltage issue. Or a lack thereof. Does not have to be the batteries. There are many connections between the battery and the motor. The trim tilt pump motor running is taking electrical power away from the motor. The battery needs to step up and provide power to the motor. If the power can't get there then the motor may stumble.,"Why would I just put a new set of lights on the trailer the brake lights and blinkers work fine.would be nice to have taillights. + +07 Saab 9-7x 5.3i AWD there are other circuits on the same as taillights if the trailer sucks up all voltage other stuff on car will sease to function correctly. + +I have np voltage on pin #4 at car end." +"I've got twin '95 SWS 200s on my boat (200txrt & L200txrt) and this is not the first time I've dealt with troubleshooting an alarm buzzer. + +First time: I was out fishing in moderate rolling seas. When I started to head back in, the alarm would go off every time I came down hard on a wave and the engines would go into limp mode. I would throttle back to neutral, the alarm would turn off and I could resume running...until the boat hit hard again. My engines were oil injected but that feature was deleted by one the previous owners. So I went through all the steps to verify it wasn't overheating. Then I made sure the low oil sensor to the old injection feature wasn't being tripped. All checked out. I later found out that it had to do with loose battery connections. Turns out my batteries (one for each motor & two house) were not tied down well enough so when the boat was getting tossed around the terminal nuts were backing off and the engines were receiving intermittent current. This was throwing an alarm because the oil injection system wasn't receiving its normal power, continuously (even though it's not being used, it can still talk to the main ECUs). Anyway, a homemade battery box/bracket and an old ratchet strap fixed that problem, so far. + +This time: Everything functions normally except when I'm running over 3000 RPM and I try to adjust the trim switch. After hitting the switch, the same thing happens. Alarm, limp mode, shift to neutral, resuming running normally. Today, I figured out that it's only the port motor's switch that tripping the alarm. I can trim the starboard motor while running all day but if the port motor's tilt/trim is engaged, the alarm sounds. + +Based off my past experiences with this, I wanted to blame it on my batteries. They were 4 years old so it wasn't impossible for them to be dying on me. Which made sense because dying batteries may not be able to supply enough current for ignition and tilt/trim at the same time. So I got brand new batteries for each motor and left them on the ProSport charger until it said they were full. Took the boat out again and it was still doing it. + +Does anyone have any further insight on what might be causing this? I'm scratching my head on this one.",That’s what I figured. Any recommendations on where I should start? I imagine this may be tricky to troubleshoot since I have to be running 3000+RPM to really test it...,That’s what I figured. Any recommendations on where I should start? I imagine this may be tricky to troubleshoot since I have to be running 3000+RPM to really test it...,"Hybrid stuff is only good for those that have deep pockets at this time.-------Many of these hybrid cars will be worthless when folks learn what it takes to maintain them and what battery replacement costs.----Most new products are "" great "" when they are new !!-----Anybody know what happened to the GM product caled ---------"" VOLT """ +"I've got twin '95 SWS 200s on my boat (200txrt & L200txrt) and this is not the first time I've dealt with troubleshooting an alarm buzzer. + +First time: I was out fishing in moderate rolling seas. When I started to head back in, the alarm would go off every time I came down hard on a wave and the engines would go into limp mode. I would throttle back to neutral, the alarm would turn off and I could resume running...until the boat hit hard again. My engines were oil injected but that feature was deleted by one the previous owners. So I went through all the steps to verify it wasn't overheating. Then I made sure the low oil sensor to the old injection feature wasn't being tripped. All checked out. I later found out that it had to do with loose battery connections. Turns out my batteries (one for each motor & two house) were not tied down well enough so when the boat was getting tossed around the terminal nuts were backing off and the engines were receiving intermittent current. This was throwing an alarm because the oil injection system wasn't receiving its normal power, continuously (even though it's not being used, it can still talk to the main ECUs). Anyway, a homemade battery box/bracket and an old ratchet strap fixed that problem, so far. + +This time: Everything functions normally except when I'm running over 3000 RPM and I try to adjust the trim switch. After hitting the switch, the same thing happens. Alarm, limp mode, shift to neutral, resuming running normally. Today, I figured out that it's only the port motor's switch that tripping the alarm. I can trim the starboard motor while running all day but if the port motor's tilt/trim is engaged, the alarm sounds. + +Based off my past experiences with this, I wanted to blame it on my batteries. They were 4 years old so it wasn't impossible for them to be dying on me. Which made sense because dying batteries may not be able to supply enough current for ignition and tilt/trim at the same time. So I got brand new batteries for each motor and left them on the ProSport charger until it said they were full. Took the boat out again and it was still doing it. + +Does anyone have any further insight on what might be causing this? I'm scratching my head on this one.","I went through every power connection and ground on the entire starboard side. I ohm'd every section of +/- wire I could. I ended up finding that the main + wire coming from the battery had a lock washer on it and it wasn't fully tight. It wasn't loose but it wasn't tight enough to fully seat the lock washer on the wire's end connector. I tossed that washer, cleaned the terminal and the connector and reassembled with some liquid electrical tape. That seemed to solve the problem.","I went through every power connection and ground on the entire starboard side. I ohm'd every section of +/- wire I could. I ended up finding that the main + wire coming from the battery had a lock washer on it and it wasn't fully tight. It wasn't loose but it wasn't tight enough to fully seat the lock washer on the wire's end connector. I tossed that washer, cleaned the terminal and the connector and reassembled with some liquid electrical tape. That seemed to solve the problem.",Bought it 1 year old from original owner don't know about under water it's the first time it never has run since I'v owned it. It never has been run in fresh water seawater use only +"Hi everyone i'm new to this forum but I decided to join where I have been fishing and running outboards for years, this is my first 4 stroke outboard and I am a big Yamaha fan, I bought a new 9.9 Yamaha four stroke last summer and just love it, I have it just broke in now and I like to do my own maintenance, I was changing the oil and I just can't seem to figure out how to check the oil properly, I added the right amount of oil .8 of a litre or .85 quart and my dipstick is only showing right at the add or just below the line sitting level on the stand, these motors do not have a spin on filter, what am I doing wrong? any help would be appreciated thanks.","Just happened to be in town today and stopped by my Yamaha dealer to ask some questions about my oil change, the Mech at the dealer told me to put in the recommended amount .8 of a litre and that's it, it does not matter if its not in the hash marks as long as you can see it on the stick, he said if you over filled or put more than .8 of a litre in the the engine to bring it up into the hash marks it will blow the oil out when your motor is in the tilt position, he had to re sticker a lot of the new kicker engines for this very reason, so I feel better now knowing that this is normal, hope this helps somebody else out. thanks","Just happened to be in town today and stopped by my Yamaha dealer to ask some questions about my oil change, the Mech at the dealer told me to put in the recommended amount .8 of a litre and that's it, it does not matter if its not in the hash marks as long as you can see it on the stick, he said if you over filled or put more than .8 of a litre in the the engine to bring it up into the hash marks it will blow the oil out when your motor is in the tilt position, he had to re sticker a lot of the new kicker engines for this very reason, so I feel better now knowing that this is normal, hope this helps somebody else out. thanks",There are 8 different versions of the F25 available. Is it too much trouble to state your specific model? +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?",Did you check the main fuse on the motor?,Did you check the main fuse on the motor?,the relay didnt come in today. should be here tomorrow. there is no socket the relay is a rectangle block type that bolts onto the front of the engine under the cowl +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?",Check your automatic kill switch that you can clip on to you if it has one. Wouldn't be the first time I spent forever trying to figure out what wes wrong and found that kill switch had been knocked out.,Check your automatic kill switch that you can clip on to you if it has one. Wouldn't be the first time I spent forever trying to figure out what wes wrong and found that kill switch had been knocked out.,"haffiman37 said: + + + + If you got someone selling Star Brite products, they have some good stain and rust removers that are SAFE on fiberglass! + +Click to expand... + + +My grandpa uses that as well. He says this is a good thing. So may be you should try it. While I'm using Slimy Grimy + + + +________ + +mov to avi" +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?",Safety lanyard. Hi probabilty! If not that then possibly a neutral safety switch in your control box.,Safety lanyard. Hi probabilty! If not that then possibly a neutral safety switch in your control box.,"If it is original, it has probably suffered internal corrosion and should be replaced. Many times, you can get temporary relieve by cycling the cylinder count switch back and forth many times. + +As far as testing goes, there are 3 ways I know of: 1) known good shop tach used as a reference, 2) a "" tach tester"" - self contained electronic box that generates pulses similar to the ignition coil, & 3) an optical (non-contact) tach used to read rpm from the crankshaft." +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?","Thx for the reply guys. I checked all of those, and still nothing.","Thx for the reply guys. I checked all of those, and still nothing.",sounds like the coil is toast or the carbs arent synced +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?",Time top start checking for lose wires throughout the system. CHeck you battery nuts (and especially the wing nuts if you have them on your battery terminals and crank them down tight. You have power to the console so check the power to the ignition switch feed and if that is good the exit while someone is turning the key. You may have a black metal bus bar in your console that serves as the (-) for all of your gear... your main (-) wiring harness for the outboard may reside under one of the larger bolts to that bus bar... make sure it is tight.,Time top start checking for lose wires throughout the system. CHeck you battery nuts (and especially the wing nuts if you have them on your battery terminals and crank them down tight. You have power to the console so check the power to the ignition switch feed and if that is good the exit while someone is turning the key. You may have a black metal bus bar in your console that serves as the (-) for all of your gear... your main (-) wiring harness for the outboard may reside under one of the larger bolts to that bus bar... make sure it is tight.,"always......go with a oem kit. they are a little pricer, and you are getting parts that are made to oem specs." +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?",Most late model yammi's as rigged will allow the tilt and trim to operate when the key is in the off position. That is why I think you have an electrical problem somewhere else and not a problem inside the engine.,Most late model yammi's as rigged will allow the tilt and trim to operate when the key is in the off position. That is why I think you have an electrical problem somewhere else and not a problem inside the engine.,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + What year is your engine? + +Click to expand... + + I have a 93 Wellcraft 454 Chevy engine 415 HP with a mercury outdrive. It has a rebuilt carburetor, new starter,new gas filter, new plugs, cap, and rotor. It runs smoothly until it reaches 5000rpm's, then it pops through carburetor and shuts down completely. Do you have any suggestions that I might try? Could it be one of the engine sensors? If so, where are they located? I also pumped out as much of the old gas as possible." +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?","I have a 2005 F115 yamaha with the same problem. Power to the fuses, power to my instruments and accesories but power trim and starter are dead! If you resolved you problem can you share the solution with me. + +Thanks.","I have a 2005 F115 yamaha with the same problem. Power to the fuses, power to my instruments and accesories but power trim and starter are dead! If you resolved you problem can you share the solution with me. + +Thanks.","Generally, on any boat with exposed wooden pieces, do a lot of sanding down to the bare wood, then coat it with a very good marine varnish, if you want to preserve the appearance of the wood, or coat it with a very good marine epoxy paint. Jamestown Distributors and West Marine on the Internet have some very good ""How To"" videos and papers on various restoration projects. + +The same really goes for the fiberglass, unless you are dealing with gelcoat, which doesn't sound like the case. Fortunately, there are some really good paints out there now for coating fiberglass. Again, see Jamestown Distributors, or West Marine. + +This really is a project you can do yourself, given time and patience." +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?",Check your main power relay,Check your main power relay,"Sorry , but you guys are dealing with a novice boat electrical repair person! Ignition switch does NOT have a lanyard kill switch! Ignition switch has 4 wire connectors with a fuse mounted on dash next to the key! How do I test at ignition switch? This is a 2 barrel carb with points and condenser! Are there any ""kill"" alignments on the throttle or at the forward and reverse cables mounted on the block? What is the function of the mirco-switch at the cable mount location? I am going to replace the tack wire from the dist. to the coil and also try to find the ballast resistor and hopefully test it! I am hope this info will help you guys help me!!!! Thanks again!!!!" +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?","A very common cause of these types of symptoms is a corroded terminal end on one of your battery cables. They can corrode under the heat shrink and then may power small items, but 'break down' as soon as the load of starter or trim unit is put on it. This mean you might see voltage at your instruments, but it won't trim or start. Best way to test is to put a volt meter between the +ve lug at the solenoid and earth and check for ~12.8v. If it is there, check what the voltage does when you try to operate the trim or starter. If it drops down without the trim or starter working then it is one of the cables or the battery itself.","A very common cause of these types of symptoms is a corroded terminal end on one of your battery cables. They can corrode under the heat shrink and then may power small items, but 'break down' as soon as the load of starter or trim unit is put on it. This mean you might see voltage at your instruments, but it won't trim or start. Best way to test is to put a volt meter between the +ve lug at the solenoid and earth and check for ~12.8v. If it is there, check what the voltage does when you try to operate the trim or starter. If it drops down without the trim or starter working then it is one of the cables or the battery itself.",one of the problems is i will not know what i have until i tear off the covering for the outdrive hole...altho this hole is above the water line i cant leave it open for any time to speak of....so i have to have what ever i will need on hand....thats the reason i was thinking the spray sealant...possibly with a good silicone caulk around the edge of the wood also...i think i can probably get to the hole under the boat with my arm to get a plug into it.....i dont expect it to be leaking thru that pipe though....i expect it to be leaking around the outside of that pipe...i dont really care what the end result looks like so long as the leak is stopped...sorry i cant give more info but i dont have it at this point..just looking for ideas... +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?","hi....what I suggest check your main battery wire is there any corrosion or loose fitting and check main harness of the engine, try to start the engine +with another harness with control box if possible....","hi....what I suggest check your main battery wire is there any corrosion or loose fitting and check main harness of the engine, try to start the engine +with another harness with control box if possible....","From your description it sounds like you have the installation correct. Check Yandina.com for the correct wiring diagram. +I'd connect the genny output to your house bank, and let the Yandina do its thing from there. You will be drawing from those when the engines are off and you are on the genny or nothing." +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?",just checking to see if anyone ever figured out what caused this. I am having the same issue.,just checking to see if anyone ever figured out what caused this. I am having the same issue.,"Recommend that you post your question on the Yamaha Forum on this site. Go to the top left hand side of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" and then click on Yamaha Outboards." +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?","Has anyone solved this issue? I put my boat in the water, tilted the engine and started it up. It was the first time and it shut down. I turned the key again and nothing. Now the tilt will not work either. I checked the batter and I have 13v. The lights on the boat still work. Any help would be appreciated.","Has anyone solved this issue? I put my boat in the water, tilted the engine and started it up. It was the first time and it shut down. I turned the key again and nothing. Now the tilt will not work either. I checked the batter and I have 13v. The lights on the boat still work. Any help would be appreciated.","Good luck with your diagnosis of these check valves.-----When does a reed valve start "" closing "" during piston travel ?----How many millisecond for a reed to go from fully open to closed ?" +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?",I checked my fuses and found one that was blown. Yamaha had a spare fuse hanging near the fuse holder. This solved the problem. Great information and suggestions on this thread.,I checked my fuses and found one that was blown. Yamaha had a spare fuse hanging near the fuse holder. This solved the problem. Great information and suggestions on this thread.,"Anyone here work for a marina and repair boats? +I have some questions about products! + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Such as,..?? + +I work with 1/2 dozen or so marinas, 'n know most all of their techs,...." +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?",I had a problem one time Yamaha F150 electrical issue and it was the negative ground on the engine block. It looked and appeared perfectly fine (no corrosion) but took it apart wire brushed and cleaned it up and everything worked great after that.,I had a problem one time Yamaha F150 electrical issue and it was the negative ground on the engine block. It looked and appeared perfectly fine (no corrosion) but took it apart wire brushed and cleaned it up and everything worked great after that.,"DJR said: + + + + Is the stain on the gel coat of a hull made of fiberglass? If so, I've been pleased with the results of using Davis ""Fiberglass Stain Remover"". It comes in plastic jar labelled ""FSR"". The product is a gel that I apply with a rag (wearing rubber gloves). It takes a little scrubbing with the rag and leaving it on for a few minutes, but when you come back with a clean dampened rag, the stains come right off. + +https://www.davisinstruments.com/product/fsr/ + +Click to expand... + + +It's a older boat dont think it has any gel coat just fiberglass" +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?","Schoony that thread is from last april 2016, but still might help someone","Schoony that thread is from last april 2016, but still might help someone",Fuse? +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?","I am currently having a similar issue with a 2012 Yamaha F70LA motor on my pontoon. It has the 704 remote control box. I just installed the battery which I kept in house over winter connected to a battery maintainer. All boat accessories work, but the motor trim is quiet at both motor and remote. Turning ignition switch is silent too. The fuses in the motor check good. 12.7 volts at battery without any voltage drop when key is turned. Reconnected cables to battery terminals multiple times with no change. I cannot locate any other fuses within the wire harness going to motor and remote. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this motor and remote control that will help me troubleshoot where I can check for power?","I am currently having a similar issue with a 2012 Yamaha F70LA motor on my pontoon. It has the 704 remote control box. I just installed the battery which I kept in house over winter connected to a battery maintainer. All boat accessories work, but the motor trim is quiet at both motor and remote. Turning ignition switch is silent too. The fuses in the motor check good. 12.7 volts at battery without any voltage drop when key is turned. Reconnected cables to battery terminals multiple times with no change. I cannot locate any other fuses within the wire harness going to motor and remote. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this motor and remote control that will help me troubleshoot where I can check for power?",by the wheel while I was turning it. No oil anywhere. makes me think it either low or I mechanically broke something. Im just going to rip the whole steering system out and bring to hydraulic shop. +"Not real good with boat motors, so bare with me. Motor was running fine, never any troubles at all. Took it out, found a spot to fish. When we started to leave, no power to the motor and no trim. Got towed back in. I checked the batteries, and all the fuses I could find. I get power to the console, but nothing to the motor at all. I reasoned that if there was power going to the back, at least the trim would work. So surely its not the brain box, ecu thing that usually cost $1000000000000.00. Does anyone have any ideas that I can try?","I have the same issue with my f115. Except, my power trim button works on my motor, but not remotely. It worked fine when stored last fall.","I have the same issue with my f115. Except, my power trim button works on my motor, but not remotely. It worked fine when stored last fall.",40TLR - 2 stroke +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","The owner's manual is provided here for free: + +https://www.yamahapubs.com/outboard_om/LIT-18626-08-81.pdf + +Page 14 has the info on oil weights/types. + +The general maintenance is discussed starting on page 72.","The owner's manual is provided here for free: + +https://www.yamahapubs.com/outboard_om/LIT-18626-08-81.pdf + +Page 14 has the info on oil weights/types. + +The general maintenance is discussed starting on page 72.","Thanks, can you recommend anywhere for getting a service manual?" +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","Awesome, thank you. Do you know by any chance where to get a free pdf service manual for a f40 2010? + + + + + +rejesterd said: + + + + The owner's manual is provided here for free: + +https://www.yamahapubs.com/outboard_om/LIT-18626-08-81.pdf + +Page 14 has the info on oil weights/types. + +The general maintenance is discussed starting on page 72. + +Click to expand...","Awesome, thank you. Do you know by any chance where to get a free pdf service manual for a f40 2010? + + + + + +rejesterd said: + + + + The owner's manual is provided here for free: + +https://www.yamahapubs.com/outboard_om/LIT-18626-08-81.pdf + +Page 14 has the info on oil weights/types. + +The general maintenance is discussed starting on page 72. + +Click to expand...","gkm24 said: + + + + Engine details are: + +6DA F200FET X 1024871 Y. + +Hope this makes sense. +Thanks. + + +Click to expand... + +It does. The model is F200AET. The engine ID is 6DA X 1024871. + +The 6DA is telling us that it is a four cylinder F200. Not a V6 F200. + +The serial number 1024871 appears to have been made in 2017 I am guessing. + +Equivalent USA model is an F200XB. + +If you go to the Yamaha USA website (www.yamahaoutboards.com) and open up the parts book for an F200XB model you can see the parts used in your motor. Go to the ""Scheduled Service Parts"" page and you can see all of the anodes." +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","Not for free, no. There's one for an F40B here, which might be similar to yours: + +https://www.manualslib.com/manual/944116/Yamaha-F30a.html#product-F40B + +But I wouldn't use it as bible. The service manual you typically have to purchase. Definitely worth the price though imo.","Not for free, no. There's one for an F40B here, which might be similar to yours: + +https://www.manualslib.com/manual/944116/Yamaha-F30a.html#product-F40B + +But I wouldn't use it as bible. The service manual you typically have to purchase. Definitely worth the price though imo.","I'm not sure of the exact setting. But did you run it before you took it apart? Did it run well? + +Maybe someone here may have the preset. But if not. + +Set them all at 1 turn out. Then if you can run it under load . Just above idle in gear. You can set the mixture. Start with one carb. Try 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time. Listen to the motor. You want to get the highest rpm possible. If it's too rich it will bog. If it's too lean it will bog. Once you set the first carb. Move to the next one. When you think they are set properly. You may have to adjust the idle. +Make sure you have someone drive the boat or tie it off at the dock. Or if you have a big enough container that will hold the water in gear without splashing out +If for some.e reason it will not start cold. Set mixture to 1 1/4- 1 1/2. Then work from there" +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","I have an f40la 09 Get the service manual,pays for itself as soon as you open the book","I have an f40la 09 Get the service manual,pays for itself as soon as you open the book","Kevinj, + +You sir are a boss! I was wondering the same thing and apparently the guys at my local boat repair shop told me these boats (Stratos) don't typically have a built in live well. They also told me it would be quite difficult to install one but I'm assuming that they don't care to do it. I appreciate the time and thought of pointing me into the right direction. + +-Shesho" +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","Right now I'm just about to place an order for everything on the list from boat.net for the service maintenance for this engine plus the timing belt to be on the safe side. Will definitely be looking for the service manual for sure, love to have one every time I get a new toy. Doing an oil and gear oil change too plus all the anodes for fresh water. Almost $500 in total, that hurts.","Right now I'm just about to place an order for everything on the list from boat.net for the service maintenance for this engine plus the timing belt to be on the safe side. Will definitely be looking for the service manual for sure, love to have one every time I get a new toy. Doing an oil and gear oil change too plus all the anodes for fresh water. Almost $500 in total, that hurts.","The engine coolant supply (to the WH) must come from upstream of the engine thermostat. +This creates a mild coolant pressure caused by the circulating pump that is constantly charging the engine block with coolant. + +The engine coolant return (from the WH) must feed into the engine circ pump suction side. +This allows for taking advantage of the pressure differential between the two sides. +No pressure differential..... and you'll have insufficient coolant flow to/from the WH. + + +Also, and perhaps a long shot..... your WH outlet (supply) must be taken from the port that leads into the upper portion of the WH tank. +Cold water enters the lower section only. +If these were reversed, it may cause your limited amount of warm/hot water. + +." +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","BTW, just checked the thermostat and it was stock open, that will be replace too.","BTW, just checked the thermostat and it was stock open, that will be replace too.","Did you fire the engine with the boat in the water? You need the water level to be above the cavitation plate for the pump to push water. If you had it on a hose with earmuffs, next time squeeze the earmuffs against the sides of the lower unit and hold them tight until the pressure from the hose has forced water up through the pump and it is spitting out everywhere. Then, stand back and have someone start the engine. It should keep pumping and peeing out the tell-tail pee hole." +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","It will probably be worth the $500 in the end. If you'll only be in freshwater, you won't have to change the anodes for a really long time. A new impeller should last quite a while too. I would hold off on doing the timing belt though. It's nice to get the practice of changing it, but at 64 hours, I really doubt it's anywhere close to needing replacing. The service manual will actually tell you how to check it anyway. Usually, it just means measuring the slack. + +I would focus more on the fuel system. An older engine with low hours that has sat for a long time can get lots of varnish/gunk buildup in the hoses, the fuel tank, the fuel/water separator, the fuel filter, the vapor separator (often referred to as 'VST'), etc.. basically anywhere fuel sits. One thing that the service manual won't tell you about is a rebuild kit for the vapor separator.. that includes a new o-ring and a filter. Sierra should have one (probably on boats.net).. I don't think Yamaha has a rebuild kit, but I could be wrong. Typically, they want to just sell you the whole vapor separator assembly. Once you have the rebuild kit, you can safely open up the VST and see if it needs to be cleaned. I would try to not run the engine until you confirm that the fuel system is clean. The reason being that if there's a really serious clog somewhere, the high pressure electric pump inside the VST could overheat and you'd have to replace it. If you clean out the entire fuel system right up to the injectors and you find that it doesn't run well (especially at higher rpms), then you might want to send your injectors in to be cleaned. I've never had to do that, but I know many people do that when issues arise. + +Another thing you might want to look at is the Yamaha Diagnostic (often referred to as YDS or YDIS) cable & software. I think version 1.33 is what you want for a 2010, but double-check that. They sell them on ebay. They're great because you can read the exact hours on the engine and see if any trouble codes have been issued by the engine's computer (ECM). I think the one I bought was about $70. You just need a Windows computer (or a Windows VM running on Mac/Linux) to process the data. + +Enjoy.","It will probably be worth the $500 in the end. If you'll only be in freshwater, you won't have to change the anodes for a really long time. A new impeller should last quite a while too. I would hold off on doing the timing belt though. It's nice to get the practice of changing it, but at 64 hours, I really doubt it's anywhere close to needing replacing. The service manual will actually tell you how to check it anyway. Usually, it just means measuring the slack. + +I would focus more on the fuel system. An older engine with low hours that has sat for a long time can get lots of varnish/gunk buildup in the hoses, the fuel tank, the fuel/water separator, the fuel filter, the vapor separator (often referred to as 'VST'), etc.. basically anywhere fuel sits. One thing that the service manual won't tell you about is a rebuild kit for the vapor separator.. that includes a new o-ring and a filter. Sierra should have one (probably on boats.net).. I don't think Yamaha has a rebuild kit, but I could be wrong. Typically, they want to just sell you the whole vapor separator assembly. Once you have the rebuild kit, you can safely open up the VST and see if it needs to be cleaned. I would try to not run the engine until you confirm that the fuel system is clean. The reason being that if there's a really serious clog somewhere, the high pressure electric pump inside the VST could overheat and you'd have to replace it. If you clean out the entire fuel system right up to the injectors and you find that it doesn't run well (especially at higher rpms), then you might want to send your injectors in to be cleaned. I've never had to do that, but I know many people do that when issues arise. + +Another thing you might want to look at is the Yamaha Diagnostic (often referred to as YDS or YDIS) cable & software. I think version 1.33 is what you want for a 2010, but double-check that. They sell them on ebay. They're great because you can read the exact hours on the engine and see if any trouble codes have been issued by the engine's computer (ECM). I think the one I bought was about $70. You just need a Windows computer (or a Windows VM running on Mac/Linux) to process the data. + +Enjoy.","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +Thanks to both who responded. I had the same thoughts. Checked all the fuses. Checked and cleaned the connection @ the starter battery. Now find that the trim switch will work from the front console. So I am thinking problem is in the starter switch itself. I made an appt. to bring it in, so can follow up as to what they find out. I was worried about how to trailer it w/o being able to tile the motor up, but can do that with use of the front console switch. So will know more after bring it in next week. Thanks again, appreciate the comments." +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","Awesome, thanks for the info. Reading codes and knowing the exact engine hours is a most for me so I'll check on that. as for the timing belt, the only reason I was thinking of replacing it was due to age,it looks like new. Will definitely look for the vst rebuild kit. We ran the boat for about 2 hours yesterday and it ran great, it has a racor filter in there that looks really clean, actually, it looks like new but it will be replace anyway. I added starton to the fuel just in case. + +Thanks again, any other info will be greatly appreciate it as I'm new to Yamaha. + + + +rejesterd said: + + + + It will probably be worth the $500 in the end. If you'll only be in freshwater, you won't have to change the anodes for a really long time. A new impeller should last quite a while too. I would hold off on doing the timing belt though. It's nice to get the practice of changing it, but at 64 hours, I really doubt it's anywhere close to needing replacing. The service manual will actually tell you how to check it anyway. Usually, it just means measuring the slack. + +I would focus more on the fuel system. An older engine with low hours that has sat for a long time can get lots of varnish/gunk buildup in the hoses, the fuel tank, the fuel/water separator, the fuel filter, the vapor separator (often referred to as 'VST'), etc.. basically anywhere fuel sits. One thing that the service manual won't tell you about is a rebuild kit for the vapor separator.. that includes a new o-ring and a filter. Sierra should have one (probably on boats.net).. I don't think Yamaha has a rebuild kit, but I could be wrong. Typically, they want to just sell you the whole vapor separator assembly. Once you have the rebuild kit, you can safely open up the VST and see if it needs to be cleaned. I would try to not run the engine until you confirm that the fuel system is clean. The reason being that if there's a really serious clog somewhere, the high pressure electric pump inside the VST could overheat and you'd have to replace it. If you clean out the entire fuel system right up to the injectors and you find that it doesn't run well (especially at higher rpms), then you might want to send your injectors in to be cleaned. I've never had to do that, but I know many people do that when issues arise. + +Another thing you might want to look at is the Yamaha Diagnostic (often referred to as YDS or YDIS) cable & software. I think version 1.33 is what you want for a 2010, but double-check that. They sell them on ebay. They're great because you can read the exact hours on the engine and see if any trouble codes have been issued by the engine's computer (ECM). I think the one I bought was about $70. You just need a Windows computer (or a Windows VM running on Mac/Linux) to process the data. + +Enjoy. + +Click to expand...","Awesome, thanks for the info. Reading codes and knowing the exact engine hours is a most for me so I'll check on that. as for the timing belt, the only reason I was thinking of replacing it was due to age,it looks like new. Will definitely look for the vst rebuild kit. We ran the boat for about 2 hours yesterday and it ran great, it has a racor filter in there that looks really clean, actually, it looks like new but it will be replace anyway. I added starton to the fuel just in case. + +Thanks again, any other info will be greatly appreciate it as I'm new to Yamaha. + + + +rejesterd said: + + + + It will probably be worth the $500 in the end. If you'll only be in freshwater, you won't have to change the anodes for a really long time. A new impeller should last quite a while too. I would hold off on doing the timing belt though. It's nice to get the practice of changing it, but at 64 hours, I really doubt it's anywhere close to needing replacing. The service manual will actually tell you how to check it anyway. Usually, it just means measuring the slack. + +I would focus more on the fuel system. An older engine with low hours that has sat for a long time can get lots of varnish/gunk buildup in the hoses, the fuel tank, the fuel/water separator, the fuel filter, the vapor separator (often referred to as 'VST'), etc.. basically anywhere fuel sits. One thing that the service manual won't tell you about is a rebuild kit for the vapor separator.. that includes a new o-ring and a filter. Sierra should have one (probably on boats.net).. I don't think Yamaha has a rebuild kit, but I could be wrong. Typically, they want to just sell you the whole vapor separator assembly. Once you have the rebuild kit, you can safely open up the VST and see if it needs to be cleaned. I would try to not run the engine until you confirm that the fuel system is clean. The reason being that if there's a really serious clog somewhere, the high pressure electric pump inside the VST could overheat and you'd have to replace it. If you clean out the entire fuel system right up to the injectors and you find that it doesn't run well (especially at higher rpms), then you might want to send your injectors in to be cleaned. I've never had to do that, but I know many people do that when issues arise. + +Another thing you might want to look at is the Yamaha Diagnostic (often referred to as YDS or YDIS) cable & software. I think version 1.33 is what you want for a 2010, but double-check that. They sell them on ebay. They're great because you can read the exact hours on the engine and see if any trouble codes have been issued by the engine's computer (ECM). I think the one I bought was about $70. You just need a Windows computer (or a Windows VM running on Mac/Linux) to process the data. + +Enjoy. + +Click to expand...",Drain the oil and look at magnet on drain plug. +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.",Is this what I would need https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Out...-Diagnostic-cable-set-Plug-play-/330918278833,Is this what I would need https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Out...-Diagnostic-cable-set-Plug-play-/330918278833,Check the shifting linkage where it came apart for the lower unit removal. +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.",Yep that's the one.,Yep that's the one.,i was just taking the easy approach...its only 4 bolts on most of the small trailers and all you have to do is loosen them and maybe a little tap or two with a maul and tighten them back down...thats if he has the room....that 10-15% is the book recommended distribution.....8% is probably ok....adding trim tabs is where most people get into trouble...they add the tabs and then move the boat position where the tabs wont hit the trailer when loading...on aluminum boats its common for trim tabs to be welded even with the bottom on the transom....in that case its best to cut the runners on the trailer and recarpet them...btw....moving the winch assy 6 inches make a big difference... +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","I was looking at my list and it looks like I added the filter for the vapor separator but not a new o-ring which I just added to the list. The filter is part of their schedule service parts diagram, but its strange they don't list the o-ring. + +Thanks again for your input, needed the advice.","I was looking at my list and it looks like I added the filter for the vapor separator but not a new o-ring which I just added to the list. The filter is part of their schedule service parts diagram, but its strange they don't list the o-ring. + +Thanks again for your input, needed the advice.","Chawk, you are the man!! You were 100% on the money. The problem was indeed hard to find since a loose contact in one of the regulator wires was the problem. The thing was that the screw was tight, but the connection was loose and since the screw had plastic over it to avoid grounding that wire, it didn't make contact with the regulator. +Thanks a bunch for a problem that was killing me. Al ground contacts are now nice and clean and the alternator puts out an even 14.2 volts at first, slowly dropping to 13.9 after an hour or so. +Peter" +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","rejesterd said: + + + + Yep that's the one. + +Click to expand... + +Will get that today, thank you.","rejesterd said: + + + + Yep that's the one. + +Click to expand... + +Will get that today, thank you.","Ayuh,....... As rotten as that deck is,..... + +I'm guessin' the transom, 'n stringers are too,....." +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","rejesterd said: + + + + It will probably be worth the $500 in the end. If you'll only be in freshwater, you won't have to change the anodes for a really long time. A new impeller should last quite a while too. I would hold off on doing the timing belt though. It's nice to get the practice of changing it, but at 64 hours, I really doubt it's anywhere close to needing replacing. The service manual will actually tell you how to check it anyway. Usually, it just means measuring the slack. + +I would focus more on the fuel system. An older engine with low hours that has sat for a long time can get lots of varnish/gunk buildup in the hoses, the fuel tank, the fuel/water separator, the fuel filter, the vapor separator (often referred to as 'VST'), etc.. basically anywhere fuel sits. One thing that the service manual won't tell you about is a rebuild kit for the vapor separator.. that includes a new o-ring and a filter. Sierra should have one (probably on boats.net).. I don't think Yamaha has a rebuild kit, but I could be wrong. Typically, they want to just sell you the whole vapor separator assembly. Once you have the rebuild kit, you can safely open up the VST and see if it needs to be cleaned. I would try to not run the engine until you confirm that the fuel system is clean. The reason being that if there's a really serious clog somewhere, the high pressure electric pump inside the VST could overheat and you'd have to replace it. If you clean out the entire fuel system right up to the injectors and you find that it doesn't run well (especially at higher rpms), then you might want to send your injectors in to be cleaned. I've never had to do that, but I know many people do that when issues arise. + +Another thing you might want to look at is the Yamaha Diagnostic (often referred to as YDS or YDIS) cable & software. I think version 1.33 is what you want for a 2010, but double-check that. They sell them on ebay. They're great because you can read the exact hours on the engine and see if any trouble codes have been issued by the engine's computer (ECM). I think the one I bought was about $70. You just need a Windows computer (or a Windows VM running on Mac/Linux) to process the data. + +Enjoy. + +Click to expand... + +Just ordered the yds Thanks for the tips","rejesterd said: + + + + It will probably be worth the $500 in the end. If you'll only be in freshwater, you won't have to change the anodes for a really long time. A new impeller should last quite a while too. I would hold off on doing the timing belt though. It's nice to get the practice of changing it, but at 64 hours, I really doubt it's anywhere close to needing replacing. The service manual will actually tell you how to check it anyway. Usually, it just means measuring the slack. + +I would focus more on the fuel system. An older engine with low hours that has sat for a long time can get lots of varnish/gunk buildup in the hoses, the fuel tank, the fuel/water separator, the fuel filter, the vapor separator (often referred to as 'VST'), etc.. basically anywhere fuel sits. One thing that the service manual won't tell you about is a rebuild kit for the vapor separator.. that includes a new o-ring and a filter. Sierra should have one (probably on boats.net).. I don't think Yamaha has a rebuild kit, but I could be wrong. Typically, they want to just sell you the whole vapor separator assembly. Once you have the rebuild kit, you can safely open up the VST and see if it needs to be cleaned. I would try to not run the engine until you confirm that the fuel system is clean. The reason being that if there's a really serious clog somewhere, the high pressure electric pump inside the VST could overheat and you'd have to replace it. If you clean out the entire fuel system right up to the injectors and you find that it doesn't run well (especially at higher rpms), then you might want to send your injectors in to be cleaned. I've never had to do that, but I know many people do that when issues arise. + +Another thing you might want to look at is the Yamaha Diagnostic (often referred to as YDS or YDIS) cable & software. I think version 1.33 is what you want for a 2010, but double-check that. They sell them on ebay. They're great because you can read the exact hours on the engine and see if any trouble codes have been issued by the engine's computer (ECM). I think the one I bought was about $70. You just need a Windows computer (or a Windows VM running on Mac/Linux) to process the data. + +Enjoy. + +Click to expand... + +Just ordered the yds Thanks for the tips","Usually (actually almost all the time) an electronic application is cheaper to manufacture. Everyone gets hung up in OH| ""electronics"" so it must be expensive/better. Not so ,Also Mechanical is more failsafe, electro is proprietary and brings the manufacturer more money in repairs. (not to mention reprogramming etc.) Yes a carbed engine will get the same gas mileage as a fuel injection at the same sustained speed, which a boat motor doen't really change throttle positions as much as you do in your car around town (Carbed car has to rely on a lil squirt from the accelerator pump so as to make up for the lag of the vaccum decrease when you press the accelerator. so there is a little waste. almost unmeasurable except by epa standards. +At pgh boat show couple years ago I was in a discussion/negotiation to buy a merc 350 c.i. IO in a Cobalt. I was complaining about the Fuel injection, I did not want an additional electronic gizmo to break and strand me out on lake Erie or anywhere else. Merc rep later tracked me down and offered me the same new engine with a carborator option, (more money of course) he told me that Merc offers them with a carb as most experienced charter boat captains will not do electronic ignition. etc etc. and they do not want to strand or be liable for their paying passengers. +an + + + + + +Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + What OB's are direct injected? + +So if I buy a 200hp carbed it's as good on gas as a EFI?? +Then why make it? +Yea I had a 225Mer and the pumps were very costly!!! + +Click to expand..." +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","Capricious said: + + + + Just ordered the yds Thanks for the tips + +Click to expand... + +Just so you know there is another one on eBay for $60 free shipping and its from Miami fl with great reviews, not from Austria like the one I linked.","Capricious said: + + + + Just ordered the yds Thanks for the tips + +Click to expand... + +Just so you know there is another one on eBay for $60 free shipping and its from Miami fl with great reviews, not from Austria like the one I linked.",I have the same problem with a 2003 Yamaha F115 with only 320 hours...... Any ideas????? +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.",this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diagnostic...ine-Outboard-WaveRunner-Jet-Boat/272277218057,this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diagnostic...ine-Outboard-WaveRunner-Jet-Boat/272277218057,"keeth said: + + + + Basic things first, if you havent already checked, pull a plug wire put a tester in between and see if it lights up when you pull. If you don't have one pull the entire plug and set it on the block with the plug wire still attached and look at the electrode and look for spark. If you have spark. Contine to the next plug. If you have spark on all plugs try spraying ether into the carb if it fires you have a fuel problem. If not you'll have to delve deeper into it. + +Click to expand... + + +I pulled the plug and tested, it does spark. The carb is getting fuel. Even though I cleaned the carb thoroughly before launching, my guess is that something is messed up in there. I pulled the carb and disassembled, everything looked squeaky clean except the outside of the throttle plate and carb throat had some reddish-brown deposits on it, must be fuel varnish? I'm amazed that could happen after running it only once, and running it dry when I finished. I pulled the intake pipe (manifold?) that runs from the carb to the motor. Lots of the same deposits in there, and the valve chamber and valve was also full of deposits. I cleaned all that as best I could with carb spray. Where is all that gunk from? I use fresh fuel every season, adding Yamaha's stabilizer and ""ring-free"" plus cleaner. + +Well, I doubt those deposits are preventing it from starting. I'll try going through the carb again, but geez, I just did that. I suppose some little bit of dirt might be clogging a jet somewhere. Just find it hard to believe that would happen after just literally about 15 minutes of use at the start of the season with a freshly cleaned carb. Fuel filter is new. + +At least this didn't happen on the start of a family trip or something. But still a pain in the ass, and I wish I understood what was going on." +"Hi Guys, I have a 2010 f40la with only 64 hours and I would like to do a service maintenance and was wondering what should I replace, was looking at this site https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-hp/40hp/f40la-0410/scheduled-service-parts and I see they have a schedule service parts and I was wondering if I should replace everything in that list to be safe, what about the timing belt? + +I need to check the anodes as i believe they are in good shape although we do our boating in fresh water but couldn't find a kit for fresh water. + +Whats the recommended gear and engine oil for this engine and what is the amount? + +Do I have to do any valve adjustment too? + +Anything else I should do or I should look for while I'm at it? + +Sorry for so many questions but I don't have an owners manual. + +Thanks in advance.","Want to thank everyone for your input, I ended up getting the owners manual, the genuine Yamaha service manual and the yds. Played with it a bit and it's great. The engine had 64 hours as I was told and it has now 68 hours. Ordered all the parts including the timing belt, now I just need to take time for this. The only thing that came up in the yds was over cooling which it doesn't surprise me at all as it has the thermostat stuck open and I replaced that as soon as I got the new parts.","Want to thank everyone for your input, I ended up getting the owners manual, the genuine Yamaha service manual and the yds. Played with it a bit and it's great. The engine had 64 hours as I was told and it has now 68 hours. Ordered all the parts including the timing belt, now I just need to take time for this. The only thing that came up in the yds was over cooling which it doesn't surprise me at all as it has the thermostat stuck open and I replaced that as soon as I got the new parts.",I did not sync them. At first I assumed just pulling them apart and not messing with anything besides cleaning them I would be fine. Does that seem like the problem ? They need to be sync together? +"Hi Guys, +I recently bought a boat with a 2009 F115-TLRH. + +I am trying to find basic components for the motor, such as gear oil/leg washers, fuel filters, etc. +I have tried finding the model on the following Canada parts picker: +https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/our_company/parts_catalogue.php + + +However, my model is no longer on there. Even putting in the VIN/Serial # doesn't bring a return. + +Tried to find a Canadian support line, could not find one so I sent an email - no response. + +I have tried calling the US support line, they told me that it is not a US model so they cannot help. They did provide me with a Canadian contact #, to which it simply goes to a message machine that is not set up, so you can't even leave a voicemail. + +I called a Canadian Yamaha dealer who said they could order parts if they have parts numbers, but had no idea about why the motor model # would not show up on the parts catalogue. + +Does anyone know if this model is supported? Maybe the model #'s have changed or they do not manufacture parts for it anymore - which would suck. +Or perhaps all the models are similar enough that I can grab part #'s from the manual for the F115B, F115A, etc. +As of right now, I have no idea of what I can order or if it's compatible with this 'ghost' motor that doesn't exist apparently. + +Anyone have any idea of where to go from here? +Thanks for any assistance",What is the primary ID of the motor? Begins with the number 6. For instance 68VL 1000459.,What is the primary ID of the motor? Begins with the number 6. For instance 68VL 1000459.,"What part do I most likely need. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... Hard to say Ken,.... Welcome Aboard,... + +Diagnosin' it will save ya buyin' abunch of parts ya don't need.... + +Start at the choke solenoid,... +With the button on the control pushed, the solenoid should be showing 12Vs... +Is it,..?? +Does it have a Good Ground,..?? +Next, check the Big plug on the side of the motor,... +Then see if the Switch is workin' properly... + +All you'll need is a Testlight, or Multimeter to do these Tests..." +"Hi Guys, +I recently bought a boat with a 2009 F115-TLRH. + +I am trying to find basic components for the motor, such as gear oil/leg washers, fuel filters, etc. +I have tried finding the model on the following Canada parts picker: +https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/our_company/parts_catalogue.php + + +However, my model is no longer on there. Even putting in the VIN/Serial # doesn't bring a return. + +Tried to find a Canadian support line, could not find one so I sent an email - no response. + +I have tried calling the US support line, they told me that it is not a US model so they cannot help. They did provide me with a Canadian contact #, to which it simply goes to a message machine that is not set up, so you can't even leave a voicemail. + +I called a Canadian Yamaha dealer who said they could order parts if they have parts numbers, but had no idea about why the motor model # would not show up on the parts catalogue. + +Does anyone know if this model is supported? Maybe the model #'s have changed or they do not manufacture parts for it anymore - which would suck. +Or perhaps all the models are similar enough that I can grab part #'s from the manual for the F115B, F115A, etc. +As of right now, I have no idea of what I can order or if it's compatible with this 'ghost' motor that doesn't exist apparently. + +Anyone have any idea of where to go from here? +Thanks for any assistance","boscoe said: + + + + What is the primary ID of the motor? Begins with the number 6. For instance 68VL 1000459. + +Click to expand... + + +[FONT="]Hi Boscoe, it is 68V-L-1102777[/FONT]","boscoe said: + + + + What is the primary ID of the motor? Begins with the number 6. For instance 68VL 1000459. + +Click to expand... + + +[FONT="]Hi Boscoe, it is 68V-L-1102777[/FONT]","5A is the model identity. The motor should also be marked with its primary identification number. It will begin with the number 6. + +If parts are still available you can get them from any Yamaha UK outboard motor dealer." +"Hi Guys, +I recently bought a boat with a 2009 F115-TLRH. + +I am trying to find basic components for the motor, such as gear oil/leg washers, fuel filters, etc. +I have tried finding the model on the following Canada parts picker: +https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/our_company/parts_catalogue.php + + +However, my model is no longer on there. Even putting in the VIN/Serial # doesn't bring a return. + +Tried to find a Canadian support line, could not find one so I sent an email - no response. + +I have tried calling the US support line, they told me that it is not a US model so they cannot help. They did provide me with a Canadian contact #, to which it simply goes to a message machine that is not set up, so you can't even leave a voicemail. + +I called a Canadian Yamaha dealer who said they could order parts if they have parts numbers, but had no idea about why the motor model # would not show up on the parts catalogue. + +Does anyone know if this model is supported? Maybe the model #'s have changed or they do not manufacture parts for it anymore - which would suck. +Or perhaps all the models are similar enough that I can grab part #'s from the manual for the F115B, F115A, etc. +As of right now, I have no idea of what I can order or if it's compatible with this 'ghost' motor that doesn't exist apparently. + +Anyone have any idea of where to go from here? +Thanks for any assistance",Your location in Canada ?-----No local dealer ?,Your location in Canada ?-----No local dealer ?,"Ayuh,... Can ya dig in, 'n See how big the tank is,..?? + +While yer there, observe the plumbin',... +Maybe it ain't fillin' right, or not drainin' completely...." +"Hi Guys, +I recently bought a boat with a 2009 F115-TLRH. + +I am trying to find basic components for the motor, such as gear oil/leg washers, fuel filters, etc. +I have tried finding the model on the following Canada parts picker: +https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/our_company/parts_catalogue.php + + +However, my model is no longer on there. Even putting in the VIN/Serial # doesn't bring a return. + +Tried to find a Canadian support line, could not find one so I sent an email - no response. + +I have tried calling the US support line, they told me that it is not a US model so they cannot help. They did provide me with a Canadian contact #, to which it simply goes to a message machine that is not set up, so you can't even leave a voicemail. + +I called a Canadian Yamaha dealer who said they could order parts if they have parts numbers, but had no idea about why the motor model # would not show up on the parts catalogue. + +Does anyone know if this model is supported? Maybe the model #'s have changed or they do not manufacture parts for it anymore - which would suck. +Or perhaps all the models are similar enough that I can grab part #'s from the manual for the F115B, F115A, etc. +As of right now, I have no idea of what I can order or if it's compatible with this 'ghost' motor that doesn't exist apparently. + +Anyone have any idea of where to go from here? +Thanks for any assistance","Equivalent to a 2009 production year USA model F115TLR. + + + + + + + +Parts can be found here. https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-year/2006-and-later/115hp/f115tlr-0409","Equivalent to a 2009 production year USA model F115TLR. + + + + + + + +Parts can be found here. https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-year/2006-and-later/115hp/f115tlr-0409","Ok learning more how to word the question my hub face is about 62"" my spring center is 52-/34"" where can I find this axle and hub assembly?" +"Hi Guys, +I recently bought a boat with a 2009 F115-TLRH. + +I am trying to find basic components for the motor, such as gear oil/leg washers, fuel filters, etc. +I have tried finding the model on the following Canada parts picker: +https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/our_company/parts_catalogue.php + + +However, my model is no longer on there. Even putting in the VIN/Serial # doesn't bring a return. + +Tried to find a Canadian support line, could not find one so I sent an email - no response. + +I have tried calling the US support line, they told me that it is not a US model so they cannot help. They did provide me with a Canadian contact #, to which it simply goes to a message machine that is not set up, so you can't even leave a voicemail. + +I called a Canadian Yamaha dealer who said they could order parts if they have parts numbers, but had no idea about why the motor model # would not show up on the parts catalogue. + +Does anyone know if this model is supported? Maybe the model #'s have changed or they do not manufacture parts for it anymore - which would suck. +Or perhaps all the models are similar enough that I can grab part #'s from the manual for the F115B, F115A, etc. +As of right now, I have no idea of what I can order or if it's compatible with this 'ghost' motor that doesn't exist apparently. + +Anyone have any idea of where to go from here? +Thanks for any assistance","racerone said: + + + + Your location in Canada ?-----No local dealer ? + +Click to expand... + + +When one is disgusted with obtaining information from a Yamaha US dealer (or Yamaha USA the distributor) try and get information from Yamaha Canada. It all won't seem so bad.","racerone said: + + + + Your location in Canada ?-----No local dealer ? + +Click to expand... + + +When one is disgusted with obtaining information from a Yamaha US dealer (or Yamaha USA the distributor) try and get information from Yamaha Canada. It all won't seem so bad.","yes i/o omc sterndrive,and yes looked like a couple were hooked to bennet trim tab pump" +"Hi Guys, +I recently bought a boat with a 2009 F115-TLRH. + +I am trying to find basic components for the motor, such as gear oil/leg washers, fuel filters, etc. +I have tried finding the model on the following Canada parts picker: +https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/our_company/parts_catalogue.php + + +However, my model is no longer on there. Even putting in the VIN/Serial # doesn't bring a return. + +Tried to find a Canadian support line, could not find one so I sent an email - no response. + +I have tried calling the US support line, they told me that it is not a US model so they cannot help. They did provide me with a Canadian contact #, to which it simply goes to a message machine that is not set up, so you can't even leave a voicemail. + +I called a Canadian Yamaha dealer who said they could order parts if they have parts numbers, but had no idea about why the motor model # would not show up on the parts catalogue. + +Does anyone know if this model is supported? Maybe the model #'s have changed or they do not manufacture parts for it anymore - which would suck. +Or perhaps all the models are similar enough that I can grab part #'s from the manual for the F115B, F115A, etc. +As of right now, I have no idea of what I can order or if it's compatible with this 'ghost' motor that doesn't exist apparently. + +Anyone have any idea of where to go from here? +Thanks for any assistance","racerone said: + + + + Your location in Canada ?-----No local dealer ? + +Click to expand... + + +nwt, no local dealer","racerone said: + + + + Your location in Canada ?-----No local dealer ? + +Click to expand... + + +nwt, no local dealer",I know this post is a little old but can you see where the smoke is coming from? If not try cleaning the outside of the engine then run it a while and see if there is any sign of oil leakage. +"Hi Guys, +I recently bought a boat with a 2009 F115-TLRH. + +I am trying to find basic components for the motor, such as gear oil/leg washers, fuel filters, etc. +I have tried finding the model on the following Canada parts picker: +https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/our_company/parts_catalogue.php + + +However, my model is no longer on there. Even putting in the VIN/Serial # doesn't bring a return. + +Tried to find a Canadian support line, could not find one so I sent an email - no response. + +I have tried calling the US support line, they told me that it is not a US model so they cannot help. They did provide me with a Canadian contact #, to which it simply goes to a message machine that is not set up, so you can't even leave a voicemail. + +I called a Canadian Yamaha dealer who said they could order parts if they have parts numbers, but had no idea about why the motor model # would not show up on the parts catalogue. + +Does anyone know if this model is supported? Maybe the model #'s have changed or they do not manufacture parts for it anymore - which would suck. +Or perhaps all the models are similar enough that I can grab part #'s from the manual for the F115B, F115A, etc. +As of right now, I have no idea of what I can order or if it's compatible with this 'ghost' motor that doesn't exist apparently. + +Anyone have any idea of where to go from here? +Thanks for any assistance","Thank you boscoe, helps a ton","Thank you boscoe, helps a ton","Just realized the S/N on engine reads Z200TRXY, so does the situation change if this is an HPDI? Both cowlings and other engine read LX200TRXY so I assumed both were OX66's. + +Both have O2 sensors. + +The boat is a World Cat 266. It was originally powered with Honda 130's. The previous owner repowered with rebuilt Yamaha 200's. Not sure why they would mix engines. I have had the boat for 4 years. Both seem to drink the same amount of fuel and oil, maybe with the HPDI using more oil. + +I have been doing a lot of reading the past couple of days. I would suspect that the O2's are dirty. I do run Ring Free." +I just picked up a used outboard and cannot figure out the model or year. What I do have is what I think is a serial number 005463 it’s a twin cylinder single carb 25hp. Any help is much appreciated,What are the markings on the carburetors and the CDI?,What are the markings on the carburetors and the CDI?,Errors were cleared. The service icon was related to a reminder for service and was re setted and working ok. +I just picked up a used outboard and cannot figure out the model or year. What I do have is what I think is a serial number 005463 it’s a twin cylinder single carb 25hp. Any help is much appreciated,"Carb is I think 61N015KT + +CDI is 61N-00 +F8T15971 +5Z04 + +Thanks in advance ��","Carb is I think 61N015KT + +CDI is 61N-00 +F8T15971 +5Z04 + +Thanks in advance ��","Update.......... +Thank you chuwk_man for your help...new temp sensors on way for variable resistance for temp gauge . +Through other posts I believe I have the warning horn and safety cut off switch figured out .but will welcome any more input on this. +Will check sender/sensor on tilt motor + +Any more feed back is welcome. Thank you" +I just picked up a used outboard and cannot figure out the model or year. What I do have is what I think is a serial number 005463 it’s a twin cylinder single carb 25hp. Any help is much appreciated,"Are you here in the USA or in another country? + + +Here in the USA several model year C30 Yams used the 61N-85540-00-00 CDI. https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/61N-85540-00-00?q_ref=61n-85540-00-00 + + +Those C30 models used a 61T-14301-00-00 carburetor but that carburetor uses a 61N-14381-00-00 float bowl. https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/61N-14381-00-00?q_ref=61n-14381-00-00 + +My best guess is that your 25 HP model is the equivalent of a USA model C30. No oil injection. circa 1999 ~ 2005.","Are you here in the USA or in another country? + + +Here in the USA several model year C30 Yams used the 61N-85540-00-00 CDI. https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/61N-85540-00-00?q_ref=61n-85540-00-00 + + +Those C30 models used a 61T-14301-00-00 carburetor but that carburetor uses a 61N-14381-00-00 float bowl. https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/61N-14381-00-00?q_ref=61n-14381-00-00 + +My best guess is that your 25 HP model is the equivalent of a USA model C30. No oil injection. circa 1999 ~ 2005.",You better change it! It is totally damage. +I just picked up a used outboard and cannot figure out the model or year. What I do have is what I think is a serial number 005463 it’s a twin cylinder single carb 25hp. Any help is much appreciated,You are correct there is no oil injection on this model. I am in Canada. Anything else I can look to steer me in the direction of finding parts if needed? Not having the model and year makes me kind of have to guess at parts. Thanks for your help��,You are correct there is no oil injection on this model. I am in Canada. Anything else I can look to steer me in the direction of finding parts if needed? Not having the model and year makes me kind of have to guess at parts. Thanks for your help��,What was the reason it wasn’t pumping water before you purchased? +I just picked up a used outboard and cannot figure out the model or year. What I do have is what I think is a serial number 005463 it’s a twin cylinder single carb 25hp. Any help is much appreciated,"If I were a betting man I would suspect that any of the Yamaha USA C30 models share the same parts with your model motor. + +Have you contacted Yamaha Canada to see what they have to say? + +https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/eshop/m...roup=OB&unitYear=no&unitId=299&unitName=25+HP","If I were a betting man I would suspect that any of the Yamaha USA C30 models share the same parts with your model motor. + +Have you contacted Yamaha Canada to see what they have to say? + +https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/eshop/m...roup=OB&unitYear=no&unitId=299&unitName=25+HP",The Yamaha manual if you want that one is LIT-18616-00-02. +"V150TLRZ. Starts and idles fine. But once put under load it stalls, i.e. when put in gear it bogs down and stalls. Spits out fuel from bottom carb. Disassembled down to reed valves and they look perfect. Disassembled and cleaned all 3 carbs. Any suggestions on what the problem might be?","To me, the leaking fuel still points to the carbs. I would try getting the carb repair kit for your engine and replace those parts.","To me, the leaking fuel still points to the carbs. I would try getting the carb repair kit for your engine and replace those parts.","The first thing to check is that you had the right oil/fuel mix. +Then i would move onto making sure the cooling water is getting round the engine and is producing the tell tale. +As mentioned above, also pull the thermosensors out and check that they are all as they should be. +to be honest chances are that it is just electrical seeing as you don't even have to be running for this issue to occur." +"V150TLRZ. Starts and idles fine. But once put under load it stalls, i.e. when put in gear it bogs down and stalls. Spits out fuel from bottom carb. Disassembled down to reed valves and they look perfect. Disassembled and cleaned all 3 carbs. Any suggestions on what the problem might be?","did you ever find the answer to this? i dont have fuel spitting out anywhere, but i have the same issue of it bogging down and stalling when i put it in gear and give it some gas.","did you ever find the answer to this? i dont have fuel spitting out anywhere, but i have the same issue of it bogging down and stalling when i put it in gear and give it some gas.",You have to double check the connections and make sure you are getting pulse from the alternator to the tac +"V150TLRZ. Starts and idles fine. But once put under load it stalls, i.e. when put in gear it bogs down and stalls. Spits out fuel from bottom carb. Disassembled down to reed valves and they look perfect. Disassembled and cleaned all 3 carbs. Any suggestions on what the problem might be?","aspaziani said: + + + + did you ever find the answer to this? i dont have fuel spitting out anywhere, but i have the same issue of it bogging down and stalling when i put it in gear and give it some gas. + +Click to expand... + + +Start a new thread and include your model/year","aspaziani said: + + + + did you ever find the answer to this? i dont have fuel spitting out anywhere, but i have the same issue of it bogging down and stalling when i put it in gear and give it some gas. + +Click to expand... + + +Start a new thread and include your model/year","Just checked per your suggestion - yep 3/8"" or more. +Check spark on ""clean"" plug - all good. Guess I will fire up this weekend and and start pulling plugs wires to see it it drops a cylinder out- +So I expect carb build next. + +Need a wiring diagram - end cut off one cable - +Thanks for response-" +"Got a 2000 yamaha C115 2 stroke 4cyl. Has good compression and a new fuel pump and spark plugs, but still makes no power at wide open throttle. Checked the carbs and replaced the floats, and still tops out around 21mph and only reaches 4500rpm. Checked the spark at each coil with a spark gap tester, and there's good strong spark at each one. One of the coils will shock the crap out of you, must have a little leak in the insulation somewhere. Could this cause such a big loss of power? We also tested the fuel line by disconnecting it at the primer bulb and running that hose directly to the fuel pump off a gas can. Problem persists. My timing light wouldn't work, so we couldnt' check timing, but all the set screws are tight, and last time I checked timing, it was dead on. + +The problem just happened suddenly one day, no lead-up to it. Pretty stumped as to what it could be.",Could be a sheared flywheel key.---That changes timing.-----Or a reed valve problem.-----Or run with a timing light on each cylinder to full throttle.---See how spark behaves.,Could be a sheared flywheel key.---That changes timing.-----Or a reed valve problem.-----Or run with a timing light on each cylinder to full throttle.---See how spark behaves.,"Do a compression test on it.----Could also be a problem with crankcase compression , reed valves." +"Got a 2000 yamaha C115 2 stroke 4cyl. Has good compression and a new fuel pump and spark plugs, but still makes no power at wide open throttle. Checked the carbs and replaced the floats, and still tops out around 21mph and only reaches 4500rpm. Checked the spark at each coil with a spark gap tester, and there's good strong spark at each one. One of the coils will shock the crap out of you, must have a little leak in the insulation somewhere. Could this cause such a big loss of power? We also tested the fuel line by disconnecting it at the primer bulb and running that hose directly to the fuel pump off a gas can. Problem persists. My timing light wouldn't work, so we couldnt' check timing, but all the set screws are tight, and last time I checked timing, it was dead on. + +The problem just happened suddenly one day, no lead-up to it. Pretty stumped as to what it could be.","racerone said: + + + + Could be a sheared flywheel key.---That changes timing.-----Or a reed valve problem.-----Or run with a timing light on each cylinder to full throttle.---See how spark behaves. + +Click to expand... + + +Hmm, haven't checked the reeds, but I would think those would affect how it runs more at low speeds, no? It seems to start and idle good, but is slightly harder to start than before. I checked the key about 2 years ago, and it seemed fine then. + +Tried the timing light and it doesn't seem to pick up enough of the sparks. Maybe my inductor is damaged... But the spark tester showed great spark on all 4 coils. Even the one that leaks and shocks you. My dad suggested it could still be bad fuel lines, like they are soft and collapse. We haven't tried running on NEW fuel hose. The fuel hose is pretty soft, but I didn't see it collapsing anywhere. It was replaced with autozone fuel hose a couple years back.","racerone said: + + + + Could be a sheared flywheel key.---That changes timing.-----Or a reed valve problem.-----Or run with a timing light on each cylinder to full throttle.---See how spark behaves. + +Click to expand... + + +Hmm, haven't checked the reeds, but I would think those would affect how it runs more at low speeds, no? It seems to start and idle good, but is slightly harder to start than before. I checked the key about 2 years ago, and it seemed fine then. + +Tried the timing light and it doesn't seem to pick up enough of the sparks. Maybe my inductor is damaged... But the spark tester showed great spark on all 4 coils. Even the one that leaks and shocks you. My dad suggested it could still be bad fuel lines, like they are soft and collapse. We haven't tried running on NEW fuel hose. The fuel hose is pretty soft, but I didn't see it collapsing anywhere. It was replaced with autozone fuel hose a couple years back.","Pal said: + + + + Hi 04fx, Just seems odd they would both read the same eronious reading. What are the chances ?????? +That''s exactly what I thought. +Try putting the hand held voltmeter tester (preferably a digital) across the battery that is on charge with engine running at least 1500 rpm. If the voltage is not between 13.8 and 14.5 VDC, then there is a charging system problem, alternator / regulator / wiring. +I'll try that. Had hand surgery, ugh. Out of business for a while. +If engine is running and you only get 12 VDC, that signifies a bad charging system. Should be at least 13.8 VDC at 1500 RPM. Engine off and 12 VDC is even just normal to low for static batteries that have been charged. +Thanks for the numbers, I'll check it.... Pal + + + +Hey, PAL, + +Thought I would add a little chart showing battery charge state: +State of Charge12 Volt batteryVolts per Cell100%12.72.1290%12.52.0880%12.422.0770%12.322.0560%12.202.0350%12.062.0140%11.91.9830%11.751.9620%11.581.9310%11.311.89010.51.75 + +As you can see, 12 VDC output of a ""fully charged battery"" is low, actually less than 50% charged....... + +Click to expand..." +"Got a 2000 yamaha C115 2 stroke 4cyl. Has good compression and a new fuel pump and spark plugs, but still makes no power at wide open throttle. Checked the carbs and replaced the floats, and still tops out around 21mph and only reaches 4500rpm. Checked the spark at each coil with a spark gap tester, and there's good strong spark at each one. One of the coils will shock the crap out of you, must have a little leak in the insulation somewhere. Could this cause such a big loss of power? We also tested the fuel line by disconnecting it at the primer bulb and running that hose directly to the fuel pump off a gas can. Problem persists. My timing light wouldn't work, so we couldnt' check timing, but all the set screws are tight, and last time I checked timing, it was dead on. + +The problem just happened suddenly one day, no lead-up to it. Pretty stumped as to what it could be.",I think you will be able to sort this out on your own.,I think you will be able to sort this out on your own.,"bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,.... There shouldn't be any in-line fuel filters,...... just the canister filter just before the fuel pump,..... + +Click to expand... + + +There is an updated inline fuel strainer before the low pressure pump, this inline strainer kit comes with all new Mercruiser Complete drop in engines......It is there to protect the low pressure fuel pump..... Change it every year...... + +There is a service bulletin on this.... The strainer should be added to any inboard/stern drive engine that utilizes an electric low pressure fuel pump." +"Got a 2000 yamaha C115 2 stroke 4cyl. Has good compression and a new fuel pump and spark plugs, but still makes no power at wide open throttle. Checked the carbs and replaced the floats, and still tops out around 21mph and only reaches 4500rpm. Checked the spark at each coil with a spark gap tester, and there's good strong spark at each one. One of the coils will shock the crap out of you, must have a little leak in the insulation somewhere. Could this cause such a big loss of power? We also tested the fuel line by disconnecting it at the primer bulb and running that hose directly to the fuel pump off a gas can. Problem persists. My timing light wouldn't work, so we couldnt' check timing, but all the set screws are tight, and last time I checked timing, it was dead on. + +The problem just happened suddenly one day, no lead-up to it. Pretty stumped as to what it could be.","Troubleshoot systems in the order of fuel, spark, compression. 90% of time the issue is fuel system related. And I don't think autozone stocks marine grade fuel hoses...below or above deck. But I could be wrong, just never shopped there for marine supplies. + +Speed is a poor measurement of engine performance...too many variables effect mph. Rpms are your key hole to assessing performance. Your engines spec rpm range at wot is 4500-5500. You want to be at the top end. Troubleshoot fuel system from tank thru primer thru carbs, etc. Once you've confirmed no fuel system issue then move on to spark.","Troubleshoot systems in the order of fuel, spark, compression. 90% of time the issue is fuel system related. And I don't think autozone stocks marine grade fuel hoses...below or above deck. But I could be wrong, just never shopped there for marine supplies. + +Speed is a poor measurement of engine performance...too many variables effect mph. Rpms are your key hole to assessing performance. Your engines spec rpm range at wot is 4500-5500. You want to be at the top end. Troubleshoot fuel system from tank thru primer thru carbs, etc. Once you've confirmed no fuel system issue then move on to spark.","Thank you so much dude!!! +I just flipped the 3rd switch and now the warnings are gone!" +"Got a 2000 yamaha C115 2 stroke 4cyl. Has good compression and a new fuel pump and spark plugs, but still makes no power at wide open throttle. Checked the carbs and replaced the floats, and still tops out around 21mph and only reaches 4500rpm. Checked the spark at each coil with a spark gap tester, and there's good strong spark at each one. One of the coils will shock the crap out of you, must have a little leak in the insulation somewhere. Could this cause such a big loss of power? We also tested the fuel line by disconnecting it at the primer bulb and running that hose directly to the fuel pump off a gas can. Problem persists. My timing light wouldn't work, so we couldnt' check timing, but all the set screws are tight, and last time I checked timing, it was dead on. + +The problem just happened suddenly one day, no lead-up to it. Pretty stumped as to what it could be.","If all the spark plug tips look similar, then I would replace the fuel hoses from the tank to the engine. Then replace that questionable coil if you see no improvement.","If all the spark plug tips look similar, then I would replace the fuel hoses from the tank to the engine. Then replace that questionable coil if you see no improvement.","makomark said: + + + + did you check the wires.....and the timing advance? + +Click to expand... + +This week I pulled the distributer and number 1 plug. Found TDC on compression stroke and reinstalled the distributer with the rotor at number 1 on the cap. Also changed the plugs. I found #5 plug was somehow smashed. No gap at all. I am assuming it wasen.t firing at all. Took her out for an overnight trip and she ran just fine. Still trying to figure out the smashed plug. Now I am wondering if cyl #5 could have gotten loaded with fuel and stalled the engine. I would think that the fuel would exit via the exhaust valve." +"Got a 2000 yamaha C115 2 stroke 4cyl. Has good compression and a new fuel pump and spark plugs, but still makes no power at wide open throttle. Checked the carbs and replaced the floats, and still tops out around 21mph and only reaches 4500rpm. Checked the spark at each coil with a spark gap tester, and there's good strong spark at each one. One of the coils will shock the crap out of you, must have a little leak in the insulation somewhere. Could this cause such a big loss of power? We also tested the fuel line by disconnecting it at the primer bulb and running that hose directly to the fuel pump off a gas can. Problem persists. My timing light wouldn't work, so we couldnt' check timing, but all the set screws are tight, and last time I checked timing, it was dead on. + +The problem just happened suddenly one day, no lead-up to it. Pretty stumped as to what it could be.","Well, the engine got another set of coils from another boat (no change), then we put the carbs from that same other engine on it (again, no change). We even hooked it up to another fresh can of gas with a completely new fuel hose and the engine runs the same as it did before. Vintage Seadoo 2-strokes used to have a similar problem if the rectifier was going bad, can something similar happen to these Yama outboards? Last thing I can think of what it could be is a case leak, but that's such an uncommon thing I feel like.... this engine has been rebuilt previously (about 3yr ago), but I have a hard time believing a case leak could just form. I feel like I've run out of straws to grasp...","Well, the engine got another set of coils from another boat (no change), then we put the carbs from that same other engine on it (again, no change). We even hooked it up to another fresh can of gas with a completely new fuel hose and the engine runs the same as it did before. Vintage Seadoo 2-strokes used to have a similar problem if the rectifier was going bad, can something similar happen to these Yama outboards? Last thing I can think of what it could be is a case leak, but that's such an uncommon thing I feel like.... this engine has been rebuilt previously (about 3yr ago), but I have a hard time believing a case leak could just form. I feel like I've run out of straws to grasp...","Ricor said: + + + + Great idea, will give it a shot and let you know. + +Click to expand... + + +Everything's worth a shot when the alternative is to take it to the Yamaha Mafia service center!" +"Got a 2000 yamaha C115 2 stroke 4cyl. Has good compression and a new fuel pump and spark plugs, but still makes no power at wide open throttle. Checked the carbs and replaced the floats, and still tops out around 21mph and only reaches 4500rpm. Checked the spark at each coil with a spark gap tester, and there's good strong spark at each one. One of the coils will shock the crap out of you, must have a little leak in the insulation somewhere. Could this cause such a big loss of power? We also tested the fuel line by disconnecting it at the primer bulb and running that hose directly to the fuel pump off a gas can. Problem persists. My timing light wouldn't work, so we couldnt' check timing, but all the set screws are tight, and last time I checked timing, it was dead on. + +The problem just happened suddenly one day, no lead-up to it. Pretty stumped as to what it could be.",First check the reed valves in behind the carburetors.---------Next start motor in the lake.----Let motor idle.-----Remove one plug wire at a time.----Report what happens.------Or mark your flywheel for TDC for each cylinder.-----Start motor on a hose.-----Check to see where #1 is firing.-----Check the other 3 the same way.,First check the reed valves in behind the carburetors.---------Next start motor in the lake.----Let motor idle.-----Remove one plug wire at a time.----Report what happens.------Or mark your flywheel for TDC for each cylinder.-----Start motor on a hose.-----Check to see where #1 is firing.-----Check the other 3 the same way.,"seems like the fuel/air mix might be wrong. If it has them, try cleaning the carbs through and make sure that they are all in working order. + +does it smell strongly of fuel when it stalls?" +"Got a 2000 yamaha C115 2 stroke 4cyl. Has good compression and a new fuel pump and spark plugs, but still makes no power at wide open throttle. Checked the carbs and replaced the floats, and still tops out around 21mph and only reaches 4500rpm. Checked the spark at each coil with a spark gap tester, and there's good strong spark at each one. One of the coils will shock the crap out of you, must have a little leak in the insulation somewhere. Could this cause such a big loss of power? We also tested the fuel line by disconnecting it at the primer bulb and running that hose directly to the fuel pump off a gas can. Problem persists. My timing light wouldn't work, so we couldnt' check timing, but all the set screws are tight, and last time I checked timing, it was dead on. + +The problem just happened suddenly one day, no lead-up to it. Pretty stumped as to what it could be.",What is the length and approx weight of the boat is this engine is hung on?,What is the length and approx weight of the boat is this engine is hung on?,"???----Model # is ???----What do you mean by "" rear tiller "" ??------Perhaps it is a model where you have to turn it 180 degrees to get reverse !" +"Got a 2000 yamaha C115 2 stroke 4cyl. Has good compression and a new fuel pump and spark plugs, but still makes no power at wide open throttle. Checked the carbs and replaced the floats, and still tops out around 21mph and only reaches 4500rpm. Checked the spark at each coil with a spark gap tester, and there's good strong spark at each one. One of the coils will shock the crap out of you, must have a little leak in the insulation somewhere. Could this cause such a big loss of power? We also tested the fuel line by disconnecting it at the primer bulb and running that hose directly to the fuel pump off a gas can. Problem persists. My timing light wouldn't work, so we couldnt' check timing, but all the set screws are tight, and last time I checked timing, it was dead on. + +The problem just happened suddenly one day, no lead-up to it. Pretty stumped as to what it could be.","racerone said: + + + + First check the reed valves in behind the carburetors.---------Next start motor in the lake.----Let motor idle.-----Remove one plug wire at a time.----Report what happens.------Or mark your flywheel for TDC for each cylinder.-----Start motor on a hose.-----Check to see where #1 is firing.-----Check the other 3 the same way. + +Click to expand... + + +THat is a great idea. We bought a new timing light, haven't had a chance to use it yet though. We disabled coils one at a time, and the engine seemed to do much worse each time. It wouldn't even start up with any one disconnected. Running was much worse on each. Havne't checked the reeds yet, but want to try the timing trick, see where each cyl is firing. + +Any idea what timing should be at wot? I recall the manual only giving the spec for what it should be at idle.","racerone said: + + + + First check the reed valves in behind the carburetors.---------Next start motor in the lake.----Let motor idle.-----Remove one plug wire at a time.----Report what happens.------Or mark your flywheel for TDC for each cylinder.-----Start motor on a hose.-----Check to see where #1 is firing.-----Check the other 3 the same way. + +Click to expand... + + +THat is a great idea. We bought a new timing light, haven't had a chance to use it yet though. We disabled coils one at a time, and the engine seemed to do much worse each time. It wouldn't even start up with any one disconnected. Running was much worse on each. Havne't checked the reeds yet, but want to try the timing trick, see where each cyl is firing. + +Any idea what timing should be at wot? I recall the manual only giving the spec for what it should be at idle.","Still running like a dream Gary. Around 10 hrs use now. + +I emailed a technical advice guy in the US about it (sells performance parts for outboards) and his response was.. + +""One thing is for sure, you will not damage either the ECU or any other part. Maximum you will detect flat spot when throttling or throttle response will spoil if the air is too much."" + +Thats as far as Ive gotten with info since last post, but someone has told me the ECU can be re-programmed with the 60HP data. Can't confirm this and dont really think it will make much difference. + +The restrictor is staying out of my engine." +Took carbs off today when i pulled the little actuator arm off the oil injection module it pulled the bottom feed oil hose from oil tank. Do i need to bleed the oil injection system now? Thanks,It should be bled. Easiest way would be to run it on mixed gas until air bubble is gone. 50:1 mixture.,It should be bled. Easiest way would be to run it on mixed gas until air bubble is gone. 50:1 mixture.,"See if you have 12 volts at switch,then pump. Is it fused?check for continuity." +Took carbs off today when i pulled the little actuator arm off the oil injection module it pulled the bottom feed oil hose from oil tank. Do i need to bleed the oil injection system now? Thanks,Cheers mate any idea how long that would take? Can i do it on the trailer or would i need to mix a tank up and do it on water?,Cheers mate any idea how long that would take? Can i do it on the trailer or would i need to mix a tank up and do it on water?,First off your correct about deep cycle they are slower to charge just by design. the recommendation is a battery with between 1000 and 1050 MCA. 1000 is available in frame 24 and will be the lightest you can use a pair but make sure you use an isolator and try to run one as your full time starting battery and the other as the house battery. start your boat and make your runs use your electronics as you like when getting ready to return to port start the engine then switch it to battery two to charge on the way in. This will balance the battery use and reduce the strain on the charging system. Never Lithium in a boat they are not designed for that kind of use and the charging system may not be able to handle it. +Took carbs off today when i pulled the little actuator arm off the oil injection module it pulled the bottom feed oil hose from oil tank. Do i need to bleed the oil injection system now? Thanks,You can do it on the trailer. Should take about 5 minutes. The longer the better. Use a small plastic gas can to mix your gas and oil.,You can do it on the trailer. Should take about 5 minutes. The longer the better. Use a small plastic gas can to mix your gas and oil.,"Helm is Teleflex/Baystar HA5271. Piston for non power assisted OMC Cobra and King Cobra steering conversion is Teleflex HC5326 which needs rod end adapter HA5424. One for each drive. Remaining parts are the hose, which I got thru Mcmaster Carr for a few bucks The Teleflex hydraulic fluid and the odd plumbing fitting. Use regular brass compression fittings on the nylon hose. It isn't too complicated to do yourself if you are comfortable with bending over engines and bleeding hydraulic systems. Need one helper to turn the wheel while bleeding. + +If you have two steering stations, it is very easy to add one more helm with t fittings. + +Selection Guide here" +"After running fully normally 20minutes yesterday, my old favourite 5hp (5CS 1987) just stopped, not slowly but as if I had pushed the stop button. +Fresh fuel is there, spark plug fine, I get ignition, cylinder compression is fine, no visible leakages anywhere. + +Today I bought and replaced all carburettor gaskets/float/needle and cleaned out carburettor with compressed air. +Assembled again and it still just wont run, at max it runs 1-3seconds but mostly just dead when I crank it, won't even go with starter gas! +I can't see what the problem can be... + +-Can there possibly be an issue with the CDI, or with any of the coils (ignition or pulser)?? +As if the timing has gotten incorrect, or something... + +Thanks",Pull the flywheel off and check the key way.,Pull the flywheel off and check the key way.,"What year carb and is it a direct bolt on. what's the cost more important 350+? I prefer the old school method of choking a carb, You can flood the motor but what the heck. Do you like the starter set valve or are the just junk?" +"Looking for some help here, all repair shops are at least a 2 week wait here. + +Engine started at first bogging when I got to about the 4K RPM range (it's on a pontoon boat). Didn't think much of it and just cruised at low RPM for the holiday weekend. It started to gradually get worse and started starving at low RPM's as well, had to keep pumping the bulb to go. Here are the things I have done. + + + +running off brand new portable tank with new gas, hose and connections- made no difference +Installed a brand new low pressure fuel pump- help a little but still starves for fuel. +Put a fuel gauge on fuel rail while on muffs, at idle it was at about 37 PSI, bumped it up to 1200K RPM and it was about 39 PIS +Took VST apart and it was very clean, screen was clean. Float appeared to function correctly. +Had an extra set on new injectors, installed them and that did not help. +Looked everywhere for leaking or crimped fuel lines on engine, could not find anything. +when I turn key I can hear high pressure fuel pump kick in. + +So I am lost what to try next, it seams like the VST tank cannot keep up with the engine, I am thinking the high pressure fuel pump may be bad or weak but hate to throw $350 at it not knowing if that is the problem. + +Can anyone think of something I may be missing ?","37 psi at idle is plenty. I would assume the high pressure pump is fine. + +If you can still pump the bulb and it works better, there has to be a leak somewhere.","37 psi at idle is plenty. I would assume the high pressure pump is fine. + +If you can still pump the bulb and it works better, there has to be a leak somewhere.","We will have to agree to disagree on the open throttle Boscoe. I run a charter fleet that has had many of these engines and whilst I understand what you are saying, it isn't true in practice. Don't forget that opening the throttle with the choke closed will change the airflows (and hence fuel delivery) over both the main and idle jets. It is not just a case of 'extra air'." +"Looking for some help here, all repair shops are at least a 2 week wait here. + +Engine started at first bogging when I got to about the 4K RPM range (it's on a pontoon boat). Didn't think much of it and just cruised at low RPM for the holiday weekend. It started to gradually get worse and started starving at low RPM's as well, had to keep pumping the bulb to go. Here are the things I have done. + + + +running off brand new portable tank with new gas, hose and connections- made no difference +Installed a brand new low pressure fuel pump- help a little but still starves for fuel. +Put a fuel gauge on fuel rail while on muffs, at idle it was at about 37 PSI, bumped it up to 1200K RPM and it was about 39 PIS +Took VST apart and it was very clean, screen was clean. Float appeared to function correctly. +Had an extra set on new injectors, installed them and that did not help. +Looked everywhere for leaking or crimped fuel lines on engine, could not find anything. +when I turn key I can hear high pressure fuel pump kick in. + +So I am lost what to try next, it seams like the VST tank cannot keep up with the engine, I am thinking the high pressure fuel pump may be bad or weak but hate to throw $350 at it not knowing if that is the problem. + +Can anyone think of something I may be missing ?","Thanks, at least I know now that it is somewhere on the engine side since I ran it on a portable tank. I think I may take the VST tank off again and check the fuel lines going to them since I have not replaced them.","Thanks, at least I know now that it is somewhere on the engine side since I ran it on a portable tank. I think I may take the VST tank off again and check the fuel lines going to them since I have not replaced them.","I guess I will answer my own question. + +I started my top coat on the bottom of the hull this weekend using a compressed air paint gun. I put on 2 coats of Sea Hawk ""Aluma Hawk"" epoxy based paint and used 90% of the gallon that I purchased. I had to order another gallon for the interior, which I will be painting this coming weekend. + +CMOS" +"Looking for some help here, all repair shops are at least a 2 week wait here. + +Engine started at first bogging when I got to about the 4K RPM range (it's on a pontoon boat). Didn't think much of it and just cruised at low RPM for the holiday weekend. It started to gradually get worse and started starving at low RPM's as well, had to keep pumping the bulb to go. Here are the things I have done. + + + +running off brand new portable tank with new gas, hose and connections- made no difference +Installed a brand new low pressure fuel pump- help a little but still starves for fuel. +Put a fuel gauge on fuel rail while on muffs, at idle it was at about 37 PSI, bumped it up to 1200K RPM and it was about 39 PIS +Took VST apart and it was very clean, screen was clean. Float appeared to function correctly. +Had an extra set on new injectors, installed them and that did not help. +Looked everywhere for leaking or crimped fuel lines on engine, could not find anything. +when I turn key I can hear high pressure fuel pump kick in. + +So I am lost what to try next, it seams like the VST tank cannot keep up with the engine, I am thinking the high pressure fuel pump may be bad or weak but hate to throw $350 at it not knowing if that is the problem. + +Can anyone think of something I may be missing ?","Okay, I opened the VST up again and found the filter screen and the rubber piece unattached from the fuel pump. Took it out and the screen is nice and clean but the rubber cap does not hold tight to the pump, should it ? + +Also on the HP pump, when I took it out I tested it with 12 volts, It works but it goes in short burst and not continuous, anyone know how its supposed to work ? + +I am going to attach the float needle tomorrow, it looks kind of corroded up there, maybe it has been sticking or not letting fuel in.","Okay, I opened the VST up again and found the filter screen and the rubber piece unattached from the fuel pump. Took it out and the screen is nice and clean but the rubber cap does not hold tight to the pump, should it ? + +Also on the HP pump, when I took it out I tested it with 12 volts, It works but it goes in short burst and not continuous, anyone know how its supposed to work ? + +I am going to attach the float needle tomorrow, it looks kind of corroded up there, maybe it has been sticking or not letting fuel in.",That title is only good till you get to the border.-----Then you apply for a new certificate.----Should not be hard to get. +"Looking for some help here, all repair shops are at least a 2 week wait here. + +Engine started at first bogging when I got to about the 4K RPM range (it's on a pontoon boat). Didn't think much of it and just cruised at low RPM for the holiday weekend. It started to gradually get worse and started starving at low RPM's as well, had to keep pumping the bulb to go. Here are the things I have done. + + + +running off brand new portable tank with new gas, hose and connections- made no difference +Installed a brand new low pressure fuel pump- help a little but still starves for fuel. +Put a fuel gauge on fuel rail while on muffs, at idle it was at about 37 PSI, bumped it up to 1200K RPM and it was about 39 PIS +Took VST apart and it was very clean, screen was clean. Float appeared to function correctly. +Had an extra set on new injectors, installed them and that did not help. +Looked everywhere for leaking or crimped fuel lines on engine, could not find anything. +when I turn key I can hear high pressure fuel pump kick in. + +So I am lost what to try next, it seams like the VST tank cannot keep up with the engine, I am thinking the high pressure fuel pump may be bad or weak but hate to throw $350 at it not knowing if that is the problem. + +Can anyone think of something I may be missing ?","Looking at same problem. Think it's mech. fuel pump. +Replaced anti-siphon in tank.","Looking at same problem. Think it's mech. fuel pump. +Replaced anti-siphon in tank.","Exactly what I am saying. Epoxy will ""Stick"" to just about anything but... Poly....Not so much. Sooo. Since you used Epoxy first and then the Poly the lamination will eventually fail. The Stresses that are put on the transom of a boat, especially when pulling a skier or ""Tubing"" is tremendous. With the type of repair you have done, I would NOT want to be a Passenger in your boat at any time. That is MY experienced Opinion." +"Looking for some help here, all repair shops are at least a 2 week wait here. + +Engine started at first bogging when I got to about the 4K RPM range (it's on a pontoon boat). Didn't think much of it and just cruised at low RPM for the holiday weekend. It started to gradually get worse and started starving at low RPM's as well, had to keep pumping the bulb to go. Here are the things I have done. + + + +running off brand new portable tank with new gas, hose and connections- made no difference +Installed a brand new low pressure fuel pump- help a little but still starves for fuel. +Put a fuel gauge on fuel rail while on muffs, at idle it was at about 37 PSI, bumped it up to 1200K RPM and it was about 39 PIS +Took VST apart and it was very clean, screen was clean. Float appeared to function correctly. +Had an extra set on new injectors, installed them and that did not help. +Looked everywhere for leaking or crimped fuel lines on engine, could not find anything. +when I turn key I can hear high pressure fuel pump kick in. + +So I am lost what to try next, it seams like the VST tank cannot keep up with the engine, I am thinking the high pressure fuel pump may be bad or weak but hate to throw $350 at it not knowing if that is the problem. + +Can anyone think of something I may be missing ?","Tech said you can bend float up passed settings,in vst chamber as long as you keep lever to needle perpendicular to vst chamber. So vst chamber holds more fuel?","Tech said you can bend float up passed settings,in vst chamber as long as you keep lever to needle perpendicular to vst chamber. So vst chamber holds more fuel?","I'd much prefer to run the whole thing on one battery. I have about 100 pounds of batteries on an 1800 pound ski boat. 65 Pounds less would be good. Every bit should improve the wake. I'd like to keep the Lorrance GPS and . The boat has a sound system, but not sure I will use it." +"Looking for some help here, all repair shops are at least a 2 week wait here. + +Engine started at first bogging when I got to about the 4K RPM range (it's on a pontoon boat). Didn't think much of it and just cruised at low RPM for the holiday weekend. It started to gradually get worse and started starving at low RPM's as well, had to keep pumping the bulb to go. Here are the things I have done. + + + +running off brand new portable tank with new gas, hose and connections- made no difference +Installed a brand new low pressure fuel pump- help a little but still starves for fuel. +Put a fuel gauge on fuel rail while on muffs, at idle it was at about 37 PSI, bumped it up to 1200K RPM and it was about 39 PIS +Took VST apart and it was very clean, screen was clean. Float appeared to function correctly. +Had an extra set on new injectors, installed them and that did not help. +Looked everywhere for leaking or crimped fuel lines on engine, could not find anything. +when I turn key I can hear high pressure fuel pump kick in. + +So I am lost what to try next, it seams like the VST tank cannot keep up with the engine, I am thinking the high pressure fuel pump may be bad or weak but hate to throw $350 at it not knowing if that is the problem. + +Can anyone think of something I may be missing ?","Thanks, I'm still waiting to find out if fuel pump is supposed to run continuously or in pulses like mine is now before I put it back together.","Thanks, I'm still waiting to find out if fuel pump is supposed to run continuously or in pulses like mine is now before I put it back together.","Today I found out this +1. Spark plug with metal pitting and no comp in the left lower cylinder +2. spark plug with metal pitting in the lower right cylinder +3. Both thermostates normal and no dirt or oxidation +4. Engine borescoped with evidence of severe damage in one cylinder, most likely lower left + +Attaching a picture + +whaf would you think is the most probable cause?" +"Looking for some help here, all repair shops are at least a 2 week wait here. + +Engine started at first bogging when I got to about the 4K RPM range (it's on a pontoon boat). Didn't think much of it and just cruised at low RPM for the holiday weekend. It started to gradually get worse and started starving at low RPM's as well, had to keep pumping the bulb to go. Here are the things I have done. + + + +running off brand new portable tank with new gas, hose and connections- made no difference +Installed a brand new low pressure fuel pump- help a little but still starves for fuel. +Put a fuel gauge on fuel rail while on muffs, at idle it was at about 37 PSI, bumped it up to 1200K RPM and it was about 39 PIS +Took VST apart and it was very clean, screen was clean. Float appeared to function correctly. +Had an extra set on new injectors, installed them and that did not help. +Looked everywhere for leaking or crimped fuel lines on engine, could not find anything. +when I turn key I can hear high pressure fuel pump kick in. + +So I am lost what to try next, it seams like the VST tank cannot keep up with the engine, I am thinking the high pressure fuel pump may be bad or weak but hate to throw $350 at it not knowing if that is the problem. + +Can anyone think of something I may be missing ?",It runs all the time when engine is running. 3 -4 seconds when you turn key on,It runs all the time when engine is running. 3 -4 seconds when you turn key on,"I would hook a fuel pressure gauge up first. Get the engine hot, create the no start condition and check the fuel pressure." +"Was doing some river runs over memorial day weekend and had been going wide open for about 30 minutes or so and started doing some sharper turns just for the hell of it, when turning to the left (motor to the right) the engine would almost stall and then I would straighten it out and it would get back up to speed fairly quickly. This didnt happen at all turning to the right, any ideas?",Test run with another tank and hose.-----Perhaps check for water in your fuel tank.,Test run with another tank and hose.-----Perhaps check for water in your fuel tank.,There are places that can repair crank shafts if that is what you are interested in. +"Was doing some river runs over memorial day weekend and had been going wide open for about 30 minutes or so and started doing some sharper turns just for the hell of it, when turning to the left (motor to the right) the engine would almost stall and then I would straighten it out and it would get back up to speed fairly quickly. This didnt happen at all turning to the right, any ideas?","racerone said: + + + + Test run with another tank and hose.-----Perhaps check for water in your fuel tank. + +Click to expand... + + +Will do thanks for the quick response!","racerone said: + + + + Test run with another tank and hose.-----Perhaps check for water in your fuel tank. + +Click to expand... + + +Will do thanks for the quick response!","Wow, that is tightly packed up against the cowling. Thanks for the visual." +"Was doing some river runs over memorial day weekend and had been going wide open for about 30 minutes or so and started doing some sharper turns just for the hell of it, when turning to the left (motor to the right) the engine would almost stall and then I would straighten it out and it would get back up to speed fairly quickly. This didnt happen at all turning to the right, any ideas?",Make sure fuel line doesn't kink in that direction.,Make sure fuel line doesn't kink in that direction.,Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. There are two washers. That's why I don't understand why it is so much play for the lever! +"Was doing some river runs over memorial day weekend and had been going wide open for about 30 minutes or so and started doing some sharper turns just for the hell of it, when turning to the left (motor to the right) the engine would almost stall and then I would straighten it out and it would get back up to speed fairly quickly. This didnt happen at all turning to the right, any ideas?","If you have water in fuel, it would happen in any direction.","If you have water in fuel, it would happen in any direction.","scott046 said: + + + + Reaching out to anyone who can help shed some light on a recent problem I've encountered with my old friend the Yamaha F115TXRC model. Recently the engine created a rough idle and eventually wouldn't start.....after checking the fuel lines and replacing the separator I was able to get it started again and it ran fine for a 30 minute run home WOT.....after putting the boat on the lift, still in the water, I tried to start it again with no luck.....so I proceeded with the following steps and results: + +1) Changed the Low Pressure fuel pump first off.....engine ran great again for 20-30 minutes and after stopping and killing the engine multiple times it started right up.....but after shutting the engine off for about 15 minutes it would crank but wouldn't turnover/start again....also when trying to start after a 15 minute off period, the bulb was slightly soft and not as hard when as it was when I first started the engine w/o a problem.... +2) Spark Plugs checked/replaced....not real bad but replaced none-the-less...in line fuel filter replaced inside the bottle....mid line fuel filter replaced between the Low Pressure pump and the VST....and the thermostat was replaced....engine ran great again for 20-30 minutes and after stopping and killing the engine multiple times it started right up.....but after shutting the engine off for about 15 minutes it would crank but wouldn't turnover/start again....also when trying to start after a 15 minute off period, the bulb was slightly soft and not as hard when as it was when I first started the engine w/o a problem.... +3) Replaced the IAC and the Fuel Pressure Regulator the next day.....engine ran great again for 20-30 minutes and after stopping and killing the engine multiple times it started right up.....but after shutting the engine off for about 15 minutes it would crank but wouldn't turnover/start again....also when trying to start after a 15 minute off period, the bulb was slightly soft and not as hard when as it was when I first started the engine w/o a problem.... +4) Removed and thoroughly cleaned the VST, replacing the High Pressure fuel pump and cleaning the needled points etc.....engine ran great again for 20-30 minutes and after stopping and killing the engine multiple times it started right up.....but after shutting the engine off for about 15 minutes it would crank but wouldn't turnover/start again....also when trying to start after a 15 minute off period, the bulb was slightly soft and not as hard when as it was when I first started the engine w/o a problem.... +5) Replaced several runs of fuel line and the bulb.....engine ran great again for 20-30 minutes and after stopping and killing the engine multiple times it started right up.....but after shutting the engine off for about 15 minutes it would crank but wouldn't turnover/start again....also when trying to start after a 15 minute off period, the bulb was slightly soft and not as hard when as it was when I first started the engine w/o a problem.... +6) Injectors pulled during VST cleaning and the injectors got a thorough home style cleaning, one was plugged and cleaned out nicely....engine ran great again for 20-30 minutes and after stopping and killing the engine multiple times it started right up.....but after shutting the engine off for about 15 minutes it would crank but wouldn't turnover/start again....also when trying to start after a 15 minute off period, the bulb was slightly soft and not as hard when as it was when I first started the engine w/o a problem.....yes, I have thrown enough parts at it and am seeking support and any ideas before I throw anything else at it... + +Does anyone have any ideas on what else should be checked or replaced? Why would it run so great after anyone service task and then limp out and fail to start again after sitting 15 minutes....any help appreciate.....Thank you. + +Click to expand... + + +One additional note to consider to the long list of repair attempts. I DID NOT replace the external intake filter located just above the VST tank." +"Was doing some river runs over memorial day weekend and had been going wide open for about 30 minutes or so and started doing some sharper turns just for the hell of it, when turning to the left (motor to the right) the engine would almost stall and then I would straighten it out and it would get back up to speed fairly quickly. This didnt happen at all turning to the right, any ideas?","Mikey N.C. said: + + + + Make sure fuel line doesn't kink in that direction. + +Click to expand... + + +Ahh okay maybe thats it I didnt think of that, I'll check and see thanks!","Mikey N.C. said: + + + + Make sure fuel line doesn't kink in that direction. + +Click to expand... + + +Ahh okay maybe thats it I didnt think of that, I'll check and see thanks!","OliviaParcker said: + + + + Try to replace the fuel pump ... it shouldn't leak, I repeat. the comment above is really helpful + +Click to expand... + + +I didn’t notice this reply until now. In the meantime I had someone else say that the pump does leak if not clamped down so I didn’t replace it. I took the carbs off, took them apart, dipped them in chem dip, put them back together. + +found that someone put the wrong kind of hose and clamps on the middle carb. Was corroded and looked awful. I replaced them with oem parts. + +got It all back together. Idles great, but still doesn’t run like last year. Only gets up to 3700 wot, last year was 4200-5000. After running wot, it did die. It’s weird because after it dies, the boat acts as if the battery was dead. Barely had any life trying to start it. Thought I was stranded. After a couple minutes the boat starts right up. Drove it home at medium speed no problem. I still see more sheen of something in the water. + +I’m hesitant to replace the fuel pump since all 3 that I had access to leaked if they weren’t clamped down to the motor, but I’ll see if I can buy a new one tomorrow at the store if they have one. Maybe the fuel pump leaking can’t keep up at wot and it’s leaking gas into the motor where it gets it’s vacuum, and that’s what I’m seeing come out the exhaust?" +"Have a 60 hp Yamaha. Runs great on muffs , replaced high pressure pump in vast chamber and filter, replaced gas in tank and lines from tank to engine new bulb. Boat in lake runs great for 100 yards then starts stumbling and dies. Crank engine back up and idles fine will idle all day. Full throttle about 100 yards and dies. Any ideas and how do you test crankshaft position sensor?","Hi. + +There is no crankshaft position sensor. If you mean the throttle position sensor, you have to measure the output voltage. But if it's stumbling and totally stalling out, I would focus more on the fuel system. Why did you replace the high pressure fuel pump? + +Does the primer bulb get soft when it stalls?","Hi. + +There is no crankshaft position sensor. If you mean the throttle position sensor, you have to measure the output voltage. But if it's stumbling and totally stalling out, I would focus more on the fuel system. Why did you replace the high pressure fuel pump? + +Does the primer bulb get soft when it stalls?",model and year of the boat needed....does it have a regulator or just a rectifier?....did you just put a new battery in the boat? +"Have a 60 hp Yamaha. Runs great on muffs , replaced high pressure pump in vast chamber and filter, replaced gas in tank and lines from tank to engine new bulb. Boat in lake runs great for 100 yards then starts stumbling and dies. Crank engine back up and idles fine will idle all day. Full throttle about 100 yards and dies. Any ideas and how do you test crankshaft position sensor?","High press. pump in vst chamber wasn't coming on when ing. switch was turned on. +If it's not a cps , what's sensor on port side that has 2 wires and magnet that magnets on out side of flywheel pass? How do injectors know when to fire off ?","High press. pump in vst chamber wasn't coming on when ing. switch was turned on. +If it's not a cps , what's sensor on port side that has 2 wires and magnet that magnets on out side of flywheel pass? How do injectors know when to fire off ?",Curious if you resolved the issue? +"Have a 60 hp Yamaha. Runs great on muffs , replaced high pressure pump in vast chamber and filter, replaced gas in tank and lines from tank to engine new bulb. Boat in lake runs great for 100 yards then starts stumbling and dies. Crank engine back up and idles fine will idle all day. Full throttle about 100 yards and dies. Any ideas and how do you test crankshaft position sensor?","We're also thinking fuel related problems. I have 44 psi fuel rail reading at idle and 35 psi at full throttle, thinking it my be primary fuel pump issue.","We're also thinking fuel related problems. I have 44 psi fuel rail reading at idle and 35 psi at full throttle, thinking it my be primary fuel pump issue.","Thank you Sir, I will check for a dip this afternoon. Plan of fishing tomorrow and will refuel after the trip. Will let you know. Again, thank you." +"Have a 60 hp Yamaha. Runs great on muffs , replaced high pressure pump in vast chamber and filter, replaced gas in tank and lines from tank to engine new bulb. Boat in lake runs great for 100 yards then starts stumbling and dies. Crank engine back up and idles fine will idle all day. Full throttle about 100 yards and dies. Any ideas and how do you test crankshaft position sensor?","44 at idle (assuming the engine has warmed up for a few minutes) seems too high. I would expect closer to 33 at idle after warmup. Maybe the injectors are clogged or the pressure regulator is stuck. I'd lean more toward the injectors being clogged, considering the symptoms. But again, if the bulb is going soft, then that points toward the mechanical fuel pump or a leak in one of the fuel lines. + +The sensor near the flywheel is the pulser coil. That provides feedback to the ECM so it can determine the timing.","44 at idle (assuming the engine has warmed up for a few minutes) seems too high. I would expect closer to 33 at idle after warmup. Maybe the injectors are clogged or the pressure regulator is stuck. I'd lean more toward the injectors being clogged, considering the symptoms. But again, if the bulb is going soft, then that points toward the mechanical fuel pump or a leak in one of the fuel lines. + +The sensor near the flywheel is the pulser coil. That provides feedback to the ECM so it can determine the timing.","Again, sorry, I was on holidays and did not check the forum. I am sure you have got help since or given up. But if you still want info here it is. If it is not firing, and the glow plug. Coils should be symmetrical with no bulging, and fuel pump are ok then the fuel atomizing screen needs to be replaced Part # 25 1822 06 04 00 You should also check the filter in the fuel pump, in the suction end of the pump.It is inside the pump under the suction spigot, like a thimble inside the pump orofice. DO NOT TOUCH THE NUTS ON THE DELIVERY END OF THE PUMP. The diesel smell is from excess diesel in the exhaust that seeps out the exhaust joints. You should seal the joinst with muffler cement ot high heaqt silicone. One the heater has fired, let it run for an hour on high and the diesel will smoke off eventually. You can check the Espar at 1-800-387- 4800 in Canada for worldwide dealers. Sorry I missed your post." +"Have a 60 hp Yamaha. Runs great on muffs , replaced high pressure pump in vast chamber and filter, replaced gas in tank and lines from tank to engine new bulb. Boat in lake runs great for 100 yards then starts stumbling and dies. Crank engine back up and idles fine will idle all day. Full throttle about 100 yards and dies. Any ideas and how do you test crankshaft position sensor?","We're rethinking . our pick pump is leaking at gaskets, going to tree off filter between maual pump and vst chamber and read fuel pressure.","We're rethinking . our pick pump is leaking at gaskets, going to tree off filter between maual pump and vst chamber and read fuel pressure.","boscoe said: + + + + 3 ~ 5 psi normally. Not to exceed 7 psi. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for the fast response. Greatly appreciated" +"Have a 60 hp Yamaha. Runs great on muffs , replaced high pressure pump in vast chamber and filter, replaced gas in tank and lines from tank to engine new bulb. Boat in lake runs great for 100 yards then starts stumbling and dies. Crank engine back up and idles fine will idle all day. Full throttle about 100 yards and dies. Any ideas and how do you test crankshaft position sensor?","Definitely fix the leak first, but the fuel pressure should really be measured at the rail. Anywhere else, I'm not sure it will tell you much. The only specs I've seen are for the pressure at the rail. If you fix the leak and the bulb stays hard while the engine runs, I don't think a measurement at the mechanical pump is necessary. All the mechanical pump has to do is keep the VST chamber full.","Definitely fix the leak first, but the fuel pressure should really be measured at the rail. Anywhere else, I'm not sure it will tell you much. The only specs I've seen are for the pressure at the rail. If you fix the leak and the bulb stays hard while the engine runs, I don't think a measurement at the mechanical pump is necessary. All the mechanical pump has to do is keep the VST chamber full.","Recommend that you post your question on the Yamaha Forum on this site. Go to the top left hand side of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" and then click on Yamaha Outboards." +"Have a 60 hp Yamaha. Runs great on muffs , replaced high pressure pump in vast chamber and filter, replaced gas in tank and lines from tank to engine new bulb. Boat in lake runs great for 100 yards then starts stumbling and dies. Crank engine back up and idles fine will idle all day. Full throttle about 100 yards and dies. Any ideas and how do you test crankshaft position sensor?","We're thinking that mech. pump is sucking air, I'm going to install clear gas line and pressure gauge between mech. pump and vst chamber if that reading drops dramatically I'll know it from vst chamber back.","We're thinking that mech. pump is sucking air, I'm going to install clear gas line and pressure gauge between mech. pump and vst chamber if that reading drops dramatically I'll know it from vst chamber back.",where is the propeller located on 1998 ocm 5.8 cobra +"Hello everyone, I have a 1990 Yamaha 200 ETXD. Last year I bought the boat and the motor ran absolutely great. I was shocked actually at how well it ran at all RPM ranges. WOR was about 5400. Towards the end of the season there was some bogging at 1200-1500 rpm. A few times it would stall but if I advanced the throttle quickly it would get passed it and again run perfect up to wot. Now this year the issue persists and this time it would not go past 1500 RPM no matter what. It would stall. It also sneezed a lot when I’d first start it. Stalling several times. I have to warm it up around 1500rpm to keep it running. I removed and cleaned the carbs. I checked compression. Top 4 cylinders are 105. Bottom port is 90 bottom starboard is 95. Removed both fuel pumps and no leaks or tears. Made sure all fuel hose connections are tight. Boat ran much smoother. Now the motor was able to go up to 2800 RPMs and not as much hesitation around 1500rpm like in the past. Then the next time out she ran up to as high as 3200 RPM. The throttle is at roughly 3/4 when at 3200 and the last few inches you advance it does nothing. What’s strange is the motor runs very smooth. No shaking or misses. Sorry for the long post. Any recommendations are welcome.",Sounds like the compression is too low. Try doing a leakdown test to see if you can narrow it down further. Might just be leaking head gaskets.,Sounds like the compression is too low. Try doing a leakdown test to see if you can narrow it down further. Might just be leaking head gaskets.,"I tested the battery and then tested at my control box, there was more than a half a volt difference, so i suspected the supply cable. + +I connected a heavier cable from the battery to the control box and tested again. + +This time there was no voltage drop, tried switching on my functions and everything worked ok, so the cable must have been the problem!" +"Hello everyone, I have a 1990 Yamaha 200 ETXD. Last year I bought the boat and the motor ran absolutely great. I was shocked actually at how well it ran at all RPM ranges. WOR was about 5400. Towards the end of the season there was some bogging at 1200-1500 rpm. A few times it would stall but if I advanced the throttle quickly it would get passed it and again run perfect up to wot. Now this year the issue persists and this time it would not go past 1500 RPM no matter what. It would stall. It also sneezed a lot when I’d first start it. Stalling several times. I have to warm it up around 1500rpm to keep it running. I removed and cleaned the carbs. I checked compression. Top 4 cylinders are 105. Bottom port is 90 bottom starboard is 95. Removed both fuel pumps and no leaks or tears. Made sure all fuel hose connections are tight. Boat ran much smoother. Now the motor was able to go up to 2800 RPMs and not as much hesitation around 1500rpm like in the past. Then the next time out she ran up to as high as 3200 RPM. The throttle is at roughly 3/4 when at 3200 and the last few inches you advance it does nothing. What’s strange is the motor runs very smooth. No shaking or misses. Sorry for the long post. Any recommendations are welcome.",I will try that. I’m actually going to rebuild the motor this winter. It’s odd as the compression was the same last year when I purchased the boat and it ran great. Last year I had to remove the powerhead because one day the steering bracket snapped. What a nightmare. The shop wanted 3k just for labor. So I spent about 700 in new parts and gasket. Bought all new bolts and it ran good after but then started with the slight hesitation between 12-1500 RPMs. I’m trying to rule out anything ignition related. I may pull the heads and get a better look and clean them out,I will try that. I’m actually going to rebuild the motor this winter. It’s odd as the compression was the same last year when I purchased the boat and it ran great. Last year I had to remove the powerhead because one day the steering bracket snapped. What a nightmare. The shop wanted 3k just for labor. So I spent about 700 in new parts and gasket. Bought all new bolts and it ran good after but then started with the slight hesitation between 12-1500 RPMs. I’m trying to rule out anything ignition related. I may pull the heads and get a better look and clean them out,"Yams don't like flushing muffs most of the time, will overheat and not show a piss stream. The flushing attachment works because you are putting pressure in the system and it fills the block and pisses. The problem with it dying going on the trailer indicates that the engine is not running up to snuff. Compression. Spark. Fuel Quality. The worry about the cooling system. Try it in the water and see what results you get." +"Hey guys. I have 2002 Yamaha HPDI 200's on my 2870 Pursuit. They've always run excellent, about 700 hours. Only use ethanol free fuel, Yamalube & Ringfree maybe every 3-4 fill ups. I know is some groups they mention Ringfree causes plugs to fowl but they've been purring fine for 7 years with Yamalube and this is only the one cylinder so that's not it. + +My port motor started these symptoms. + + + +Go out for 1-2 hours #1 cylinder fouled plug real bad, +Motor idles rough, has the ""lean sneeze"" at idle, idles lower than normal RPM then dies +Won't go more than 2,500 - 3,000 RPM WOT. + +So far we tested: + + + +Has spark to plug, coil fine, +Fuel injector was fine had it checked, then even swapped it with another cylinder, +fuel injector driver has correct current, +TPS is set correctly, +Compression is good. + +[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Basically everything checks out fine per my mechanic but we think the #1 cylinder just isn't firing at all and it's somehow fuel related. My mechanic thinks possibly it could be a ""reed"" that stuck, he's looking at that tomorrow. Crazy but I thought maybe someone might have some insight.[/FONT]","Yeah, it does seem like it could be a cracked reed valve that isn't opening all the way. The only other thing I can think of is that the compression test (for whatever reason) was invalid and there is in fact something wrong in that cylinder.","Yeah, it does seem like it could be a cracked reed valve that isn't opening all the way. The only other thing I can think of is that the compression test (for whatever reason) was invalid and there is in fact something wrong in that cylinder.",I do realize that hence the ask. Thanks +"Hey guys. I have 2002 Yamaha HPDI 200's on my 2870 Pursuit. They've always run excellent, about 700 hours. Only use ethanol free fuel, Yamalube & Ringfree maybe every 3-4 fill ups. I know is some groups they mention Ringfree causes plugs to fowl but they've been purring fine for 7 years with Yamalube and this is only the one cylinder so that's not it. + +My port motor started these symptoms. + + + +Go out for 1-2 hours #1 cylinder fouled plug real bad, +Motor idles rough, has the ""lean sneeze"" at idle, idles lower than normal RPM then dies +Won't go more than 2,500 - 3,000 RPM WOT. + +So far we tested: + + + +Has spark to plug, coil fine, +Fuel injector was fine had it checked, then even swapped it with another cylinder, +fuel injector driver has correct current, +TPS is set correctly, +Compression is good. + +[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Basically everything checks out fine per my mechanic but we think the #1 cylinder just isn't firing at all and it's somehow fuel related. My mechanic thinks possibly it could be a ""reed"" that stuck, he's looking at that tomorrow. Crazy but I thought maybe someone might have some insight.[/FONT]",Yes my mechanic is going to run the compression check again just to be sure.,Yes my mechanic is going to run the compression check again just to be sure.,"I was told by my mechanic, good boat man, to never buy anything from SEI because its all OEM and its just junk and they don't stand by their warranty." +"Hey guys. I have 2002 Yamaha HPDI 200's on my 2870 Pursuit. They've always run excellent, about 700 hours. Only use ethanol free fuel, Yamalube & Ringfree maybe every 3-4 fill ups. I know is some groups they mention Ringfree causes plugs to fowl but they've been purring fine for 7 years with Yamalube and this is only the one cylinder so that's not it. + +My port motor started these symptoms. + + + +Go out for 1-2 hours #1 cylinder fouled plug real bad, +Motor idles rough, has the ""lean sneeze"" at idle, idles lower than normal RPM then dies +Won't go more than 2,500 - 3,000 RPM WOT. + +So far we tested: + + + +Has spark to plug, coil fine, +Fuel injector was fine had it checked, then even swapped it with another cylinder, +fuel injector driver has correct current, +TPS is set correctly, +Compression is good. + +[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Basically everything checks out fine per my mechanic but we think the #1 cylinder just isn't firing at all and it's somehow fuel related. My mechanic thinks possibly it could be a ""reed"" that stuck, he's looking at that tomorrow. Crazy but I thought maybe someone might have some insight.[/FONT]","it may be electrical issue if does not go up to 3,000 rpm. + +may be ECM control rpm. + +pulser coil or check the fly wheel. + +I think that it may be wrong ignition timing...intermittent ? + +just assume what I think.","it may be electrical issue if does not go up to 3,000 rpm. + +may be ECM control rpm. + +pulser coil or check the fly wheel. + +I think that it may be wrong ignition timing...intermittent ? + +just assume what I think.","I'd say option 3 would be the fastest, followed by option 2. if you want to try that path, check with the local community college(s) and or tech schools in your area...lots of time, they are looking for 'real world projects' so you might get lucky there. + +The other thought that comes to mind is to check with American Outboard Motors, in Maryland...they have a huge stock of new and used parts for 'older' units...google search will get you contact info." +"Hey guys. I have 2002 Yamaha HPDI 200's on my 2870 Pursuit. They've always run excellent, about 700 hours. Only use ethanol free fuel, Yamalube & Ringfree maybe every 3-4 fill ups. I know is some groups they mention Ringfree causes plugs to fowl but they've been purring fine for 7 years with Yamalube and this is only the one cylinder so that's not it. + +My port motor started these symptoms. + + + +Go out for 1-2 hours #1 cylinder fouled plug real bad, +Motor idles rough, has the ""lean sneeze"" at idle, idles lower than normal RPM then dies +Won't go more than 2,500 - 3,000 RPM WOT. + +So far we tested: + + + +Has spark to plug, coil fine, +Fuel injector was fine had it checked, then even swapped it with another cylinder, +fuel injector driver has correct current, +TPS is set correctly, +Compression is good. + +[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Basically everything checks out fine per my mechanic but we think the #1 cylinder just isn't firing at all and it's somehow fuel related. My mechanic thinks possibly it could be a ""reed"" that stuck, he's looking at that tomorrow. Crazy but I thought maybe someone might have some insight.[/FONT]","Good information, much appreciated. I will mention this to my mechanic. Pretty sure he already checked the coil and it was fine. Since it's just the one cylinder I'm not sure timing could be an issue. The ECM is also on his list. Yamaha also told him to check and make sure a cylinder sleeve hasn't turned (honestly not sure what they means but ok).","Good information, much appreciated. I will mention this to my mechanic. Pretty sure he already checked the coil and it was fine. Since it's just the one cylinder I'm not sure timing could be an issue. The ECM is also on his list. Yamaha also told him to check and make sure a cylinder sleeve hasn't turned (honestly not sure what they means but ok).","Main water discharge is thru prop. Other areas of discharge exhaust relief(where you pointed),lower mounts,water pump indicater,joint between gearcase and midsection." +"Good evening, I have a 203 Yamaha 2 stroke 150hp. It has 125 psi on all 6 cylinders and great spark. It has 3 carbs and only the mussel carb has good vacuum. The other two is almost non existent. If I pull the boot off either of the middle two spark plugs, there is a noticable decrease in power and sound. HOWEVER, if I do the same to the other 4 spark boots....absolutely no difference.... + +Is it reed valves? Is it a vacuum leak at crankcase gear? I really am out of answers with this! Any help would be awesome!",Compression at about 125psi on all cylinders and great spark tests.,Compression at about 125psi on all cylinders and great spark tests.,"kimcrwbr1 said: + + + +http://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Un..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item51a753bb1a&vxp=mtr +Are you sure the tube did not just fall off the fitting. Can you pull the fitting off the other tank and upgrade both at the same time? + +Click to expand... + + +Both side are welded in and are the tubes are both steel. I'm borrowing an angle drill today and will drill them out and install new ones. + +Thanks to everyone for their help." +"I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away?.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks",15v isn't that bad. Is that at idle? What is it at wot? You need a rectifier to get dc voltage and a regulator to get 14v you can't just tuck away the wires unless your not going to have a charging system..,15v isn't that bad. Is that at idle? What is it at wot? You need a rectifier to get dc voltage and a regulator to get 14v you can't just tuck away the wires unless your not going to have a charging system..,"Cadwelder, +Thanks for your advise, but the area that I am painting is above the water line." +"I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away?.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks","Stickyskilet said: + + + + I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. Crap information. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + +What rectifier? The F25MSH/F25MLH does not have a rectifier or rectifier/regulator. Since when is 15.v volts too high? + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... that is correct but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. maybe not +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, yes and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away? yes but then there will be no electrical output from the motor.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem not a problem at all... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Comments above","Stickyskilet said: + + + + I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. Crap information. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + +What rectifier? The F25MSH/F25MLH does not have a rectifier or rectifier/regulator. Since when is 15.v volts too high? + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... that is correct but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. maybe not +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, yes and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away? yes but then there will be no electrical output from the motor.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem not a problem at all... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Comments above","Good news: went out to the boat last night to change the oil and first thing I did was check the level again and smell the dipstick. The level was back down to the top of the full mark and it smelled just like motor oil should smell. Still seemed a little drippy for 10W40 but it's pretty hot here now. + +I think what must've happened is that when I checked before I had pulled the motor out of the well to clean the lower unit and leaned it in an upright position while I grabbed my toolbox. The motor slid into a more horizontal position momentarily--it was only down for 2-3 seconds before I stood it upright again but that must've been enough to affect the oil level on the stick. + +In any case I think all is well and I learned a few things here--thanks!" +"I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away?.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks","mechanicman said: + + + + 15v isn't that bad. Is that at idle? What is it at wot? You need a rectifier to get dc voltage and a regulator to get 14v you can't just tuck away the wires unless your not going to have a charging system.. + +Click to expand... + + +thanks for the reply... I didn’t test at WOT... but the 15.5 was idle, and the 15.75 was about half throttle... would lead me to believe it’d climb to around 16 at wot. + +to be clear... I’m not hung up on having the charging system at all. I’d be just as happy to disconnect the rectifier and leads altogether if it’s safe to do so.","mechanicman said: + + + + 15v isn't that bad. Is that at idle? What is it at wot? You need a rectifier to get dc voltage and a regulator to get 14v you can't just tuck away the wires unless your not going to have a charging system.. + +Click to expand... + + +thanks for the reply... I didn’t test at WOT... but the 15.5 was idle, and the 15.75 was about half throttle... would lead me to believe it’d climb to around 16 at wot. + +to be clear... I’m not hung up on having the charging system at all. I’d be just as happy to disconnect the rectifier and leads altogether if it’s safe to do so.",EBay? +"I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away?.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks","Stickyskilet said: + + + + thanks for the reply... I didn’t test at WOT... but the 15.5 was idle, and the 15.75 was about half throttle... would lead me to believe it’d climb to around 16 at wot. + +to be clear... I’m not hung up on having the charging system at all. I’d be just as happy to disconnect the rectifier and leads altogether if it’s safe to do so.[/QUOTE + +You can do that. The motor came from the factory with the rectifier. You are just returning it to its original configuration. + +Click to expand...","Stickyskilet said: + + + + thanks for the reply... I didn’t test at WOT... but the 15.5 was idle, and the 15.75 was about half throttle... would lead me to believe it’d climb to around 16 at wot. + +to be clear... I’m not hung up on having the charging system at all. I’d be just as happy to disconnect the rectifier and leads altogether if it’s safe to do so.[/QUOTE + +You can do that. The motor came from the factory with the rectifier. You are just returning it to its original configuration. + +Click to expand...","One of the mechanical fuel pumps is leaking fuel into the pulse port. Leaving all the fuel lines connected, Loosen the two 10mm bolts, wiggle the pump to loosen it from the block and squeeze the fuel ball. If fuel leaks out of the back of the pump, replace them." +"I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away?.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks","I think 15.5v is too high. + +may be that rectifier is bad... + +just normal 13.0~14 v @ idle. + +rectifier inspection need a DVA tools.","I think 15.5v is too high. + +may be that rectifier is bad... + +just normal 13.0~14 v @ idle. + +rectifier inspection need a DVA tools.",good new gas?.....put an inductive timing light in the boat and decide if it is a fire or fuel problem at the point of failure.... +"I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away?.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks","Jinsoo said: + + + + I think 15.5v is too high. + +may be that rectifier is bad... + +just normal 13.0~14 v @ idle. + +rectifier inspection need a DVA tools. + +Click to expand... + + +Rectifiers don't adjust or control voltage. Voltage from a rectifier is based on the AC voltage from the lighting coils to the rectifier. + +Regulators control the voltage. In many small Yams it is not uncommon for the regulator voltage to be 16 ~ 17 volts. Completely normal.","Jinsoo said: + + + + I think 15.5v is too high. + +may be that rectifier is bad... + +just normal 13.0~14 v @ idle. + +rectifier inspection need a DVA tools. + +Click to expand... + + +Rectifiers don't adjust or control voltage. Voltage from a rectifier is based on the AC voltage from the lighting coils to the rectifier. + +Regulators control the voltage. In many small Yams it is not uncommon for the regulator voltage to be 16 ~ 17 volts. Completely normal.",Cleaned battery cables. Blows fuse on Battery both #1 and #2. Only blows fuse when I crank it. Can I run a jumper cable from Battery right to starter and ground -- to bypass cables going through transom? Could they be half broken? Or do I have to hire someone with a scaner? Thanks For Your Help. John Waterloo +"I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away?.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks","Thanks everybody for chiming in... I decided to remove the rectifier, and just go without the charging system. +Ive made sure that the two leads from the lightning coil are well capped.","Thanks everybody for chiming in... I decided to remove the rectifier, and just go without the charging system. +Ive made sure that the two leads from the lightning coil are well capped.","Ayuh,.... As I said at iboats, silicone ain't what ya want, use poly or epoxy to seal 'em up..." +"I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away?.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks","I'm I missing something , doesn't stator generate AC at 400 to 700, and rectifier changes it to. Dc ?","I'm I missing something , doesn't stator generate AC at 400 to 700, and rectifier changes it to. Dc ?","Can you imagine how many 225hp engines Yamaha has produced in its 30+ years of producing outboards, including different models for each year?? I can. A lot, that's how many. So let's start over. What's the year and model number of your engine." +"I bought a fishing boat last year with an f25mlh65w outboard. The boat had an onboard charger which recently went kaput. I took the charger out, and wired the output from the outboard to the common post on the 1/2/both switch, after having heard that it was bad to not have the charging system wired to a battery. + + +My problem is that the voltage being delivered to the batteries, (which test at 12.6v isolated) through the rectifier is too high. (15.5v @ idle and 15.75v @half throttle) + + +I’ve also been told elsewhere that the 2005 f25mlh 65w did not come with a rectifier... but it did come with the leads from the stator to connect one if you wanted to charge a house battery. +I’d like to know if the rectifier(non OEM) that has been put in by the previous owner, can simply be removed, and the two leads from the lightning coil be capped and tucked away?.. or would they have to be dealt with in some other way? + + +I’d also welcome any thoughts about whether the 15-16v while the engine is runnning is a major problem... and if so, any suggestions about ways to get that down. + + +Thanks","Mikey N.C. said: + + + + I'm I missing something , doesn't stator generate AC at 400 to 700, and rectifier changes it to. Dc ? + +Click to expand... + + +The lighting coil does produce AC voltage but not as high as you indicate. The SM shows minimum voltage as being 26 peak AC volts at 1500 RPM and 60 peak AC volts at 3500 RPM. With the lighting coil unloaded. That is, it is not connected to the rectifier/regulator.","Mikey N.C. said: + + + + I'm I missing something , doesn't stator generate AC at 400 to 700, and rectifier changes it to. Dc ? + +Click to expand... + + +The lighting coil does produce AC voltage but not as high as you indicate. The SM shows minimum voltage as being 26 peak AC volts at 1500 RPM and 60 peak AC volts at 3500 RPM. With the lighting coil unloaded. That is, it is not connected to the rectifier/regulator.",You may find a faster answer if you post in Johnson Evinrude forum at the top of the home page +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","You start by giving us the numbers. Also, look at the CDI and tell us what the markings on it are. + +If you plan on using the motor while having the muffs installed then that may be a problem. If you plan on only using the motor when the boat is in the water, and the motor runs just fine without over heating, then what is the concern with the impeller? + +Now if I got a new to me old motor the first thing that I would do is probably replace the impeller.","You start by giving us the numbers. Also, look at the CDI and tell us what the markings on it are. + +If you plan on using the motor while having the muffs installed then that may be a problem. If you plan on only using the motor when the boat is in the water, and the motor runs just fine without over heating, then what is the concern with the impeller? + +Now if I got a new to me old motor the first thing that I would do is probably replace the impeller.",search for Pascoe's article on the gas vs diesel trade...you will find all the relevent areas discussed. buying used adds the Unknown maintenance factor unless the claimed maintenance has detailed receipts to support it. The cost to repair the Merc relative to the volvo should be measurably less for similar failures. +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","Hi. + +If you want to flush it, you should backflush it rather than use the muffs. If you don't have a backflushing adapter, I would install one. Not expensive and easy to do. + +If you get a stiff stream when in the water at speeds slightly above idle, then I would guess your impeller is just fine.","Hi. + +If you want to flush it, you should backflush it rather than use the muffs. If you don't have a backflushing adapter, I would install one. Not expensive and easy to do. + +If you get a stiff stream when in the water at speeds slightly above idle, then I would guess your impeller is just fine.","Foam out! Finally + +​" +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","rejesterd said: + + + + Hi. + +If you want to flush it, you should backflush it rather than use the muffs. If you don't have a backflushing adapter, I would install one. Not expensive and easy to do. + +If you get a stiff stream when in the water at speeds slightly above idle, then I would guess your impeller is just fine. + +Click to expand... + +Is there any links to adding a backflush adapter to this outboard?","rejesterd said: + + + + Hi. + +If you want to flush it, you should backflush it rather than use the muffs. If you don't have a backflushing adapter, I would install one. Not expensive and easy to do. + +If you get a stiff stream when in the water at speeds slightly above idle, then I would guess your impeller is just fine. + +Click to expand... + +Is there any links to adding a backflush adapter to this outboard?",As you already know but for others - Whenever pulling the lower unit apply marine grease to the top splined section of that drive shaft before it goes back up in there. Somehow salt has a way of working its way into everything and corrosion can literally weld the splines of that drive shaft into the receiver just as the splines on the prop shaft where they are received by the propeller can end up virtually welded together. +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","I don't think there are installation instructions for your specific engine, but they're all similar. The adapter is hooked into the water outlet line, as shown here: + +https://www.crowleymarine.com/yp/DZ107587/bottom-cowling-2-f50tlr-2011-50hp + +This is how it looks on my engine. The parts you'd need are: + +6R3-12580-00-00 (the hose adapter) +6C5-24378-00-00 (the T-joint that connects the flushing hose into the cooling water exit hose) +6C5-24312-00-00 (the flushing hose) + +There are other parts like the bracket and grommet if you want to really get fancy, but if you're creative enough, you shouldn't need them. You can always remove the flushing hose w/ the adapter and cap off that end of the T-joint when running it on the water.","I don't think there are installation instructions for your specific engine, but they're all similar. The adapter is hooked into the water outlet line, as shown here: + +https://www.crowleymarine.com/yp/DZ107587/bottom-cowling-2-f50tlr-2011-50hp + +This is how it looks on my engine. The parts you'd need are: + +6R3-12580-00-00 (the hose adapter) +6C5-24378-00-00 (the T-joint that connects the flushing hose into the cooling water exit hose) +6C5-24312-00-00 (the flushing hose) + +There are other parts like the bracket and grommet if you want to really get fancy, but if you're creative enough, you shouldn't need them. You can always remove the flushing hose w/ the adapter and cap off that end of the T-joint when running it on the water.","The starter motor for your engine is most likely obsolete (no longer sold). However, the starter motor might have a identification parts number on it, like 6H4. If it does, you can search the web specifically for a replacement. Something like this: + +USED STARTER MOTOR YAMAHA MARINE 6H4-81800-12-00 1984-88 50LG LH ELH 40SK SJ +++ | eBay + +https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...FUg7gQod1ysC5g + +Or you could take the starter motor to an automotive electric shop that repairs starter motors. They would most likely be able to repair for a price much less than replacing with a new starter. + +Good luck." +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","rejesterd said: + + + + I don't think there are installation instructions for your specific engine, but they're all similar. The adapter is hooked into the water outlet line, as shown here: + +https://www.crowleymarine.com/yp/DZ107587/bottom-cowling-2-f50tlr-2011-50hp + +This is how it looks on my engine. The parts you'd need are: + +6R3-12580-00-00 (the hose adapter) +6C5-24378-00-00 (the T-joint that connects the flushing hose into the cooling water exit hose) +6C5-24312-00-00 (the flushing hose) + +There are other parts like the bracket and grommet if you want to really get fancy, but if you're creative enough, you shouldn't need them. You can always remove the flushing hose w/ the adapter and cap off that end of the T-joint when running it on the water. + +Click to expand... + +That does not ""backflush"" the motor. What it does in allow for water to be added to the block at the bottom of the motor. The same place to which the water pump provides water. From there the water flows through the block in the normal direction of travel.","rejesterd said: + + + + I don't think there are installation instructions for your specific engine, but they're all similar. The adapter is hooked into the water outlet line, as shown here: + +https://www.crowleymarine.com/yp/DZ107587/bottom-cowling-2-f50tlr-2011-50hp + +This is how it looks on my engine. The parts you'd need are: + +6R3-12580-00-00 (the hose adapter) +6C5-24378-00-00 (the T-joint that connects the flushing hose into the cooling water exit hose) +6C5-24312-00-00 (the flushing hose) + +There are other parts like the bracket and grommet if you want to really get fancy, but if you're creative enough, you shouldn't need them. You can always remove the flushing hose w/ the adapter and cap off that end of the T-joint when running it on the water. + +Click to expand... + +That does not ""backflush"" the motor. What it does in allow for water to be added to the block at the bottom of the motor. The same place to which the water pump provides water. From there the water flows through the block in the normal direction of travel.",What you do is..........Get a new starter and replace yours before you do some expensive damage. +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey",-------------------,-------------------,"Agreed....as you well know, the 1970 20 and 25, still 2.5"" bore .......about top the list for highest hp to weight ratio. They weigh barely 80 pounds....maybe closer to 75. That's only 3 pounds per 1 hp.........WOW!......Still got several of these around here. Toss them on your shoulder and walk a half mile portage. I put a boat cushion between. It would take Arnold Schwarzenegger to shoulder a 25 4 stroke across......but he's a few years older than me too.... +The new Tohatsu 20 is only 97 pounds. Yamaha said they have a 125 pound 25 too. But most 25's now are 160 pounds." +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","rejesterd said: + + + + Hi. + +If you want to flush it, you should backflush it rather than use the muffs. If you don't have a backflushing adapter, I would install one. Not expensive and easy to do. + +If you get a stiff stream when in the water at speeds slightly above idle, then I would guess your impeller is just fine. + +Click to expand... + +That does not ""backflush"" the motor. What it does in allow for water to be added to the block at the bottom of the motor. The same place to which the water pump provides water. From there the water flows through the block in the normal direction of travel.","rejesterd said: + + + + Hi. + +If you want to flush it, you should backflush it rather than use the muffs. If you don't have a backflushing adapter, I would install one. Not expensive and easy to do. + +If you get a stiff stream when in the water at speeds slightly above idle, then I would guess your impeller is just fine. + +Click to expand... + +That does not ""backflush"" the motor. What it does in allow for water to be added to the block at the bottom of the motor. The same place to which the water pump provides water. From there the water flows through the block in the normal direction of travel.",Have you done any diagnosis like check the plugs for spark or check to see if you spark plugs are wet or dry when this happens? +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","So am I correct in assuming, if one was to ‘Backflush’ an outboard, it would have to be done with motor not running? Else backflushing would be fighting the flow of the water pump impeller wouldn’t it? + +What is the advantage of backflushing, compared to muffs? +Only thing I could think of is any debris entering the bottom vents may be washed back out rather than getting trapped at the tell tale. But you’d be best to remove the bottom vents to stop debris getting trapped there instead of coming out when backflushing anyhow I would think.","So am I correct in assuming, if one was to ‘Backflush’ an outboard, it would have to be done with motor not running? Else backflushing would be fighting the flow of the water pump impeller wouldn’t it? + +What is the advantage of backflushing, compared to muffs? +Only thing I could think of is any debris entering the bottom vents may be washed back out rather than getting trapped at the tell tale. But you’d be best to remove the bottom vents to stop debris getting trapped there instead of coming out when backflushing anyhow I would think.",Throttle return ?? +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","Sorry.. probably a better term is ""static flushing"". The main advantage is you don't have to run the engine. Water will be forced down back through the water pump housing (and through the fuel cooler in later models). So part of it is back-flushed, but not the engine block. But if debris was small enough to come in through the intake vents, it should go back out when static flushing.","Sorry.. probably a better term is ""static flushing"". The main advantage is you don't have to run the engine. Water will be forced down back through the water pump housing (and through the fuel cooler in later models). So part of it is back-flushed, but not the engine block. But if debris was small enough to come in through the intake vents, it should go back out when static flushing.","You saying that when in neutral there is water exiting telltale, then when in gear water no longer exits telltale?? When installed correctly, water pump doesn’t “lose” prime. It’s spinning as the crankshaft is spinning." +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey",Not sure if any of those numbers can assist in identifying the acrual model.,Not sure if any of those numbers can assist in identifying the acrual model.,"tow thing, first, jump the livewell with 12 v to see if the pump works, or rewire the livewell from dash to pump with new wire." +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","Wouldn't coffee machine descaler etc or vinegar give a better flush too? +If so would have to use a bag/bucket instead of muffs.","Wouldn't coffee machine descaler etc or vinegar give a better flush too? +If so would have to use a bag/bucket instead of muffs.","Finally - Carbs installed. Fresh gas. With fingers crossed, went to start engine submerged in 1/2 of 50 gal drum. First noticed that primer bulb now gets hard to where it can't be pumped any more. It has NEVER done that before and I always wondered why. Cranked her up and was pleasantly surprised. Started right up. Idles faster than before. VERY responsive when punching throttle. Can't wait to get her on the water. But before that I need some help with tuning. + +When I worked carbs, I set idle mix screws to same amount of turns as they were when I took carbs off. Read that to tune them just turn them for fastest idle. I turned two of them and could not detect any difference by listening to idle. Is this important? If so, how do I adjust them? +Thanks much!" +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","Think i have the serial number. +is there a website to enter serial number to confirm outboard model?","Think i have the serial number. +is there a website to enter serial number to confirm outboard model?",Its a 302 engine omc stern drive. +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","Looks to me like you have a 2001 C50. Not a 50. + +A 50 HP Yam two stroke has an oil injection system. The C50 does not. + +https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-year/2001/c50tlrz","Looks to me like you have a 2001 C50. Not a 50. + +A 50 HP Yam two stroke has an oil injection system. The C50 does not. + +https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-year/2001/c50tlrz","Apply 12 volts to choke solenoid,see if that works." +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","boscoe said: + + + + Looks to me like you have a 2001 C50. Not a 50. + +A 50 HP Yam two stroke has an oil injection system. The C50 does not. + +https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-year/2001/c50tlrz + +Click to expand... + +Cheers for that. +Think you are spot on. There is no oil mixing option, he fuel/oil has to mixed in the tank. + +I want add a tilt/trim switch to motor too as this model does not have it.","boscoe said: + + + + Looks to me like you have a 2001 C50. Not a 50. + +A 50 HP Yam two stroke has an oil injection system. The C50 does not. + +https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-year/2001/c50tlrz + +Click to expand... + +Cheers for that. +Think you are spot on. There is no oil mixing option, he fuel/oil has to mixed in the tank. + +I want add a tilt/trim switch to motor too as this model does not have it.","I took the RC case off the bulkhead and took the 3 case bolts out, decided to not rush into opening the box in case of disturbing sprung stuff...The local OMC guy was sick today. Stopped by a locksmith who, after a while, offered to impress a blank to get the keyway pattern. He said about 70% success with failure being non-destructive, said cost for first key and try would be $30. If the OMC guy doesn't have a good solution, I'd prefer not to disassemble the case to remove the key cylinder. The controls move very smoothly, the previous owner over greased everything." +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","Has anyone ever added the oil injection to this model, or is it not possible or too expensive?","Has anyone ever added the oil injection to this model, or is it not possible or too expensive?","It will probably be worth the $500 in the end. If you'll only be in freshwater, you won't have to change the anodes for a really long time. A new impeller should last quite a while too. I would hold off on doing the timing belt though. It's nice to get the practice of changing it, but at 64 hours, I really doubt it's anywhere close to needing replacing. The service manual will actually tell you how to check it anyway. Usually, it just means measuring the slack. + +I would focus more on the fuel system. An older engine with low hours that has sat for a long time can get lots of varnish/gunk buildup in the hoses, the fuel tank, the fuel/water separator, the fuel filter, the vapor separator (often referred to as 'VST'), etc.. basically anywhere fuel sits. One thing that the service manual won't tell you about is a rebuild kit for the vapor separator.. that includes a new o-ring and a filter. Sierra should have one (probably on boats.net).. I don't think Yamaha has a rebuild kit, but I could be wrong. Typically, they want to just sell you the whole vapor separator assembly. Once you have the rebuild kit, you can safely open up the VST and see if it needs to be cleaned. I would try to not run the engine until you confirm that the fuel system is clean. The reason being that if there's a really serious clog somewhere, the high pressure electric pump inside the VST could overheat and you'd have to replace it. If you clean out the entire fuel system right up to the injectors and you find that it doesn't run well (especially at higher rpms), then you might want to send your injectors in to be cleaned. I've never had to do that, but I know many people do that when issues arise. + +Another thing you might want to look at is the Yamaha Diagnostic (often referred to as YDS or YDIS) cable & software. I think version 1.33 is what you want for a 2010, but double-check that. They sell them on ebay. They're great because you can read the exact hours on the engine and see if any trouble codes have been issued by the engine's computer (ECM). I think the one I bought was about $70. You just need a Windows computer (or a Windows VM running on Mac/Linux) to process the data. + +Enjoy." +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","CoreyTroy said: + + + + Cheers for that. +Think you are spot on. There is no oil mixing option, he fuel/oil has to mixed in the tank. + +I want add a tilt/trim switch to motor too as this model does not have it. + +Click to expand... + + +Rewind.... Take 2. +I sent an email to Yamaha Au, after i advised them of the serial #. +They replied with, not a 2001 model but a 2002 50HET.","CoreyTroy said: + + + + Cheers for that. +Think you are spot on. There is no oil mixing option, he fuel/oil has to mixed in the tank. + +I want add a tilt/trim switch to motor too as this model does not have it. + +Click to expand... + + +Rewind.... Take 2. +I sent an email to Yamaha Au, after i advised them of the serial #. +They replied with, not a 2001 model but a 2002 50HET.",Gel Coat Products 206 781 1162 They had a color match for my Cobalt. I hope to try it next week. +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey","CoreyTroy said: + + + + Rewind.... Take 2. +I sent an email to Yamaha Au, after i advised them of the serial #. +They replied with, not a 2001 model but a 2002 50HET. + +Click to expand... + + +Interesting. I wonder where Yamaha Australia got their information. Yamaha Japan data indicates that it is a 2001 model year motor. See below. + +If you are in Australia (or rather not in the USA) why did you come to a USA website asking for information about your apparently Australian motor? A 50HET is not a USA model. Equivalent of a USA model C50TLRZ. + +Seems that you should have contacted Yamaha Australia first and never have come here.","CoreyTroy said: + + + + Rewind.... Take 2. +I sent an email to Yamaha Au, after i advised them of the serial #. +They replied with, not a 2001 model but a 2002 50HET. + +Click to expand... + + +Interesting. I wonder where Yamaha Australia got their information. Yamaha Japan data indicates that it is a 2001 model year motor. See below. + +If you are in Australia (or rather not in the USA) why did you come to a USA website asking for information about your apparently Australian motor? A 50HET is not a USA model. Equivalent of a USA model C50TLRZ. + +Seems that you should have contacted Yamaha Australia first and never have come here.",The goofy red wire is probably from the battery same as the ground you can use those wires to power everything if the guage is large enough. My guess is the red wire is also fused at the battery? +"Hi just bought a used boat with a 50 yammy 2 stroke. +it is a 2001 model apparently. +1. When flushing with muffs, no water comes out the tell tale, but in use in the water it squirts water. +Is this a sign of a worn impeller? + +2. The serial model sticker is missing. I have found that the outboard can be identified by a number on the block near the starter motor. How do i work out the motor details for parts etc by this number? + +Corey",Some of the Yamaha's have a water port on bottom side of lower unit above prop. If so duck tape over hole when running on muffs.,Some of the Yamaha's have a water port on bottom side of lower unit above prop. If so duck tape over hole when running on muffs.,"I'm having a hard time picturing where exactly you're seeing fuel leak out. Can you take a video? Assuming it's coming out of the main nozzle, then the only thing I can think of would be a blockage in one of the enrichment lines or passages. Or maybe some hose connections got mixed up when you put it back together. + +Have you adjusted the pilot screws? You didn't mention that." +"I pulled the lower leg to check the impeller. All good. +Put it back together, now i have a solid tell tale. +But noticed a few other water outlets around the lower leg coming out. +Have a looks at the attached pics, is this normal? + +There is a small hole at the joint between the top/bottom connecting points where water is coming through. +also from the small holes in the upper part of the lower leg, centrally. +Just never noticed this before, and want to ensure i did not miss something resembling it.",what motor is it? id say you never noticed it or maybe they where clogged.,what motor is it? id say you never noticed it or maybe they where clogged.,"cellmate2121 said: + + + + Another thing to consider especially if considering fitting a regulator as suggested by bama ,is that 12 volts is also incorrect for battery charging. During charging up to around 14.5 volts is fine (this figure is less for a sealed maintenance free version, a battery will sit at around 12.6 when fully charged. Many of the ebay regulators simply quote the output at 12 volts, this is not really going to get the job done. + +Click to expand... + +The regulators are nominally stated as 12 volts. Part of a 12 volt system. The R/R actually output nominally 14.5 ~ 16 volts. + +There is more to electricity than voltage. There is also current. In the smaller Yams even though the voltage appears to be high the current is minuscule. Not enough to harm a lead acid battery. Flooded, maintenance free flooded or AGM type." +"I pulled the lower leg to check the impeller. All good. +Put it back together, now i have a solid tell tale. +But noticed a few other water outlets around the lower leg coming out. +Have a looks at the attached pics, is this normal? + +There is a small hole at the joint between the top/bottom connecting points where water is coming through. +also from the small holes in the upper part of the lower leg, centrally. +Just never noticed this before, and want to ensure i did not miss something resembling it.","Rossy29 said: + + + + what motor is it? id say you never noticed it or maybe they where clogged. + +Click to expand... + +It's a 50hp 2 stroke yammy C50tlrz. +Newly bought. 1st flush for a while.","Rossy29 said: + + + + what motor is it? id say you never noticed it or maybe they where clogged. + +Click to expand... + +It's a 50hp 2 stroke yammy C50tlrz. +Newly bought. 1st flush for a while.","I bought a hose fitting but I need that brass fitting to connect it to the engine side or I need what part I need to connect the fitting to the engine side if I do not use that brass fitting . The engine side does not have a male sticking out to push in the ball on the fuel line fitting + + +I would be happy just knowing what that brass fitting is called and where I can buy one. Seems no one knows and has never seen it" +"I pulled the lower leg to check the impeller. All good. +Put it back together, now i have a solid tell tale. +But noticed a few other water outlets around the lower leg coming out. +Have a looks at the attached pics, is this normal? + +There is a small hole at the joint between the top/bottom connecting points where water is coming through. +also from the small holes in the upper part of the lower leg, centrally. +Just never noticed this before, and want to ensure i did not miss something resembling it.",All normal.,All normal.,"Take that back r means remote control and the Q is 1992. you equivalent Yamaha would have an ""O""" +"I pulled the lower leg to check the impeller. All good. +Put it back together, now i have a solid tell tale. +But noticed a few other water outlets around the lower leg coming out. +Have a looks at the attached pics, is this normal? + +There is a small hole at the joint between the top/bottom connecting points where water is coming through. +also from the small holes in the upper part of the lower leg, centrally. +Just never noticed this before, and want to ensure i did not miss something resembling it.",You're good. It's normal.,You're good. It's normal.,Get the adapter they are fairly cheap and almost every auto parts store has them +"I pulled the lower leg to check the impeller. All good. +Put it back together, now i have a solid tell tale. +But noticed a few other water outlets around the lower leg coming out. +Have a looks at the attached pics, is this normal? + +There is a small hole at the joint between the top/bottom connecting points where water is coming through. +also from the small holes in the upper part of the lower leg, centrally. +Just never noticed this before, and want to ensure i did not miss something resembling it.",Thanks guys....,Thanks guys....,"Yes, Check the fuel pump installation and make sure the gasket is in place... Easy to drop one side. Did you purchase a Yamaha pump or a cheap replacement?" +"Just got boat out today and after 20 minutes of running. When I put it in neutral it still idles at 2000rpms also couldn't shift it into reverse now if I turn boat off I can shift forward and reverse now when I put back into neutral and turn back on it's idleing high and when I shift into forward it will jump into forward and then I lose reverse now when I was going slow and tried neutral again it went to 400rpms like it is supposed to but then after that it started again when I went into forward made it really hard to get up on lift as I couldn't go into reverse to slow down. Hopefully someone can give me some ideas on what is wrong. Is linkage bad +Thanks +Tom",I would inspect the linkage and the related bushings.,I would inspect the linkage and the related bushings.,"bdog2 said: + + + + Hi, did you get this solved? I have a pair of 2003 F225 and coming back in from offshore the other day my starboard engine did this. Lost all electrical power. Ignition, tach, trim, all dead. Limped back in on port engine. Got home checked against port engine. Have 12v to both engines. Difference is don't have 12v at the harness plug on front of starboard engine but port does. So I'm assuming my issue is somewhere on the engine. Any ideas? + +Click to expand... + + + +Did use yesterday with no issue. Went through series of checking all connections before trip. Cleaned battery terminals and all wiring. Found the main ground and red wires on the engine itself were fairly lose that you could move wire by hand. Tightened those which ground may have been the culprit. I'll feel better with no issue after a second trip. Would have never thought to look at connections on engine itself. I guess with engine 15 years old anything may be possible." +"Have 1987 70 hp 2 stroke Yamaha etlh. Have been trouble shooting for 2 seasons. Problem is with rough mid range acceleration. Idles fine. From 80 percent to wide open throttle fine. In between throttle response sluggish and seems to vibrate. So far I have cleaned and rebuilt carbs(cleaned and went thru three times actually). Changed fuel pump twice. Checked compression, synced carbs, checked timing, changed fuel lines and filter, did a Seafoam decarb. I think it might be running a little rich as when I did Seafoam decarb engine really smoothed out about 15 seconds before it ran out of fuel. The idle mixture screw, per manual, is 1 7/8 out +_ 1/4 turn. I honestly can not tell much difference between 1 1/2 out to the 2 1/4 range. Do I rush running to lean if I go down to the 1 to 1/4 out range? I am thinking that it will still get plenty of fuel but do not want to risk burning piston. Any other suggestions appreciated.",Spec idle mix is a starting point....when engine is warm turn 1 screw out at a time. Listen to the engine. It will indicate the mix it likes best.,Spec idle mix is a starting point....when engine is warm turn 1 screw out at a time. Listen to the engine. It will indicate the mix it likes best.,"If it's an old sea star system, the pump in the helm units have a pressure release valve that will ""pop"" when the cylinder hits either of its mechanical limits...it could have 'froze' open or just busted. The cylinders are pretty much bullet-proof unless they have a side load induced upon them. + +If you are gonna take it to a hydraulic shop, you only need to take the pump, the wheel, and the cylinder..." +"Have 1987 70 hp 2 stroke Yamaha etlh. Have been trouble shooting for 2 seasons. Problem is with rough mid range acceleration. Idles fine. From 80 percent to wide open throttle fine. In between throttle response sluggish and seems to vibrate. So far I have cleaned and rebuilt carbs(cleaned and went thru three times actually). Changed fuel pump twice. Checked compression, synced carbs, checked timing, changed fuel lines and filter, did a Seafoam decarb. I think it might be running a little rich as when I did Seafoam decarb engine really smoothed out about 15 seconds before it ran out of fuel. The idle mixture screw, per manual, is 1 7/8 out +_ 1/4 turn. I honestly can not tell much difference between 1 1/2 out to the 2 1/4 range. Do I rush running to lean if I go down to the 1 to 1/4 out range? I am thinking that it will still get plenty of fuel but do not want to risk burning piston. Any other suggestions appreciated.",Is there any concern of getting it too lean and burning a piston as long as I seem to find the “sweet spot”? Even if I am a full round from specs?,Is there any concern of getting it too lean and burning a piston as long as I seem to find the “sweet spot”? Even if I am a full round from specs?,NO....i would avoid this. +"Have 1987 70 hp 2 stroke Yamaha etlh. Have been trouble shooting for 2 seasons. Problem is with rough mid range acceleration. Idles fine. From 80 percent to wide open throttle fine. In between throttle response sluggish and seems to vibrate. So far I have cleaned and rebuilt carbs(cleaned and went thru three times actually). Changed fuel pump twice. Checked compression, synced carbs, checked timing, changed fuel lines and filter, did a Seafoam decarb. I think it might be running a little rich as when I did Seafoam decarb engine really smoothed out about 15 seconds before it ran out of fuel. The idle mixture screw, per manual, is 1 7/8 out +_ 1/4 turn. I honestly can not tell much difference between 1 1/2 out to the 2 1/4 range. Do I rush running to lean if I go down to the 1 to 1/4 out range? I am thinking that it will still get plenty of fuel but do not want to risk burning piston. Any other suggestions appreciated.","Sounds to me by the way that the motor is operating that there is still some debris or restriction within the carburetors that is affecting the mid-range air/fuel circuitry. + +The fact that you are also having to make an excessive adjustment to the fuel/air mixture indicates that you are trying to overcome a problem within the carburetors. + +If some gasoline is misted into the air intake system when the motor is bogging down/getting sluggish does it get better or worse? + +My data indicates the base idle mixture setting is 1 1/4 turn outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 1/4 turn. + +If carburetors are not cleaned in a heated ultrasonic cleaner, using a good cleaning solution, and are not rodded out and then the circuits verified to be free and clear and flowing correctly, it can be all a waste of time. Leading to frustration with the motor.","Sounds to me by the way that the motor is operating that there is still some debris or restriction within the carburetors that is affecting the mid-range air/fuel circuitry. + +The fact that you are also having to make an excessive adjustment to the fuel/air mixture indicates that you are trying to overcome a problem within the carburetors. + +If some gasoline is misted into the air intake system when the motor is bogging down/getting sluggish does it get better or worse? + +My data indicates the base idle mixture setting is 1 1/4 turn outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 1/4 turn. + +If carburetors are not cleaned in a heated ultrasonic cleaner, using a good cleaning solution, and are not rodded out and then the circuits verified to be free and clear and flowing correctly, it can be all a waste of time. Leading to frustration with the motor.","Turns out I read the dial guage wrong by a few markings...:rolleyes: + +But now the problem is that I can't get the link joint length screwed in enough to get to 25 degrees. It's close but not quite there." +"Have 1987 70 hp 2 stroke Yamaha etlh. Have been trouble shooting for 2 seasons. Problem is with rough mid range acceleration. Idles fine. From 80 percent to wide open throttle fine. In between throttle response sluggish and seems to vibrate. So far I have cleaned and rebuilt carbs(cleaned and went thru three times actually). Changed fuel pump twice. Checked compression, synced carbs, checked timing, changed fuel lines and filter, did a Seafoam decarb. I think it might be running a little rich as when I did Seafoam decarb engine really smoothed out about 15 seconds before it ran out of fuel. The idle mixture screw, per manual, is 1 7/8 out +_ 1/4 turn. I honestly can not tell much difference between 1 1/2 out to the 2 1/4 range. Do I rush running to lean if I go down to the 1 to 1/4 out range? I am thinking that it will still get plenty of fuel but do not want to risk burning piston. Any other suggestions appreciated.",Thanks for your reply. I did carefully clean them using heated ultrasonic cleaner then used air to blow passageways out. I am comfortable that they are cleaned properly As for the setting I am using what I believe to be the correct Yamaha service manual supplied to me by a member on this site. That does not mean it is correct thou. To be honest I can tell very little difference between 11/2 turns and 2 turns. I was going to crank down further but first wanted to see if I was risking engine damage by making too lean.,Thanks for your reply. I did carefully clean them using heated ultrasonic cleaner then used air to blow passageways out. I am comfortable that they are cleaned properly As for the setting I am using what I believe to be the correct Yamaha service manual supplied to me by a member on this site. That does not mean it is correct thou. To be honest I can tell very little difference between 11/2 turns and 2 turns. I was going to crank down further but first wanted to see if I was risking engine damage by making too lean.,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + When does the alarm sound? + +Click to expand... + + Constantly - from turn on to off." +"Have 1987 70 hp 2 stroke Yamaha etlh. Have been trouble shooting for 2 seasons. Problem is with rough mid range acceleration. Idles fine. From 80 percent to wide open throttle fine. In between throttle response sluggish and seems to vibrate. So far I have cleaned and rebuilt carbs(cleaned and went thru three times actually). Changed fuel pump twice. Checked compression, synced carbs, checked timing, changed fuel lines and filter, did a Seafoam decarb. I think it might be running a little rich as when I did Seafoam decarb engine really smoothed out about 15 seconds before it ran out of fuel. The idle mixture screw, per manual, is 1 7/8 out +_ 1/4 turn. I honestly can not tell much difference between 1 1/2 out to the 2 1/4 range. Do I rush running to lean if I go down to the 1 to 1/4 out range? I am thinking that it will still get plenty of fuel but do not want to risk burning piston. Any other suggestions appreciated.",I pulled plugs and the third cylinder is not burning properly. Thought maybe weak fire. Pulling one wire at a time rpm drops about same no matter which wire I pull. The top cylinder seems to have more fire as I get a “bite” when I pull that wire compared to middle and bottom cylinders. Do could ever just get weak? Simply way to test?,I pulled plugs and the third cylinder is not burning properly. Thought maybe weak fire. Pulling one wire at a time rpm drops about same no matter which wire I pull. The top cylinder seems to have more fire as I get a “bite” when I pull that wire compared to middle and bottom cylinders. Do could ever just get weak? Simply way to test?,"Do you have the full description of this type? If I didn't offend you, I would buy it from you. I would have gotten a description of this type before, but I couldn't find one, only a similar one, but not this one. If I keep the 129 and 58 mm shown in the drawing, the CDI pointer is not exactly on the first line, but a little higher, because the place where the gas bowden is connected hits the crankcase. I guess such a small difference is not a problem. The throttle lever is currently about 1mm from the roller." +Hi im new to this but was wondering if my 3 cylinder 2002 f40 was a non interference or not ..thanks guys,Noninterference.,Noninterference.,Sent you a PM +Hi im new to this but was wondering if my 3 cylinder 2002 f40 was a non interference or not ..thanks guys,Thanks,Thanks,I understand you not wanting to replace the entire transom but... It will take Years for the wood to dry out. You have no idea how long it has been wet and it WILL ROT eventually even if you inject the epoxy. You MIGHT get a couple of years of service. MIGHT. If you wait to long you could have a catastrophic failure and lose the motor and/or the motor or both. Those people who told you to replace the entire transom were giving you sound advice. It's your boat so do what you want but your method will NOT work for very long. You cannot remove the damp or dry out the wood. It won't happen. +"Hi when on the water the engine sometimes will crunch and not go into reverse, when it does go into reverse the engine will accelerate quite hard straight away (a lot more then when you put into forward). When on the trailer with the gear cable off it goes in fine but its like a double push. When you go into forward it goes straight in, for reverse you push it back then back again to get it in. The cable will push the gear pin all the way back with remote. I think it maybe a remote problem as it has other issues that could be caused from it too but the remotes so simple I cant see anything.","Is this a new issue? The gear grind is one thing, the acceleration when in reverse gear is another. Check gear oil since having this issue?","Is this a new issue? The gear grind is one thing, the acceleration when in reverse gear is another. Check gear oil since having this issue?",Have you ohmed out the coil +"Hi when on the water the engine sometimes will crunch and not go into reverse, when it does go into reverse the engine will accelerate quite hard straight away (a lot more then when you put into forward). When on the trailer with the gear cable off it goes in fine but its like a double push. When you go into forward it goes straight in, for reverse you push it back then back again to get it in. The cable will push the gear pin all the way back with remote. I think it maybe a remote problem as it has other issues that could be caused from it too but the remotes so simple I cant see anything.",Thats a good point. I bought the motor as rebuilt and he told me there was new oil in there but I never looked. Its not a new problem the motor came with a new 703 remote and cables I fitted everything. The remote was a pull type and I had to change it to push type. I had to shorten the throttle cable end aswell because the cable was too long and throttle wouldnt go completely back with remote. Maybe I have done something wrong?,Thats a good point. I bought the motor as rebuilt and he told me there was new oil in there but I never looked. Its not a new problem the motor came with a new 703 remote and cables I fitted everything. The remote was a pull type and I had to change it to push type. I had to shorten the throttle cable end aswell because the cable was too long and throttle wouldnt go completely back with remote. Maybe I have done something wrong?,"Are you getting out flow from the prop etc. If so you might have a restricted pee line. Make up some kind of small tip that you could hook up to a hose and back flush from the pee hole. Mine was blocked with no flow once and it worked for me. Thanks to a post on the forum. +Good luck; +flabob1" +"Hi when on the water the engine sometimes will crunch and not go into reverse, when it does go into reverse the engine will accelerate quite hard straight away (a lot more then when you put into forward). When on the trailer with the gear cable off it goes in fine but its like a double push. When you go into forward it goes straight in, for reverse you push it back then back again to get it in. The cable will push the gear pin all the way back with remote. I think it maybe a remote problem as it has other issues that could be caused from it too but the remotes so simple I cant see anything.",Just been looking at the engine and exposed part of the shift rod looks like its been welded and ground with a grinder like it snapped and been joint. It hasnt come from the factory like that has it?,Just been looking at the engine and exposed part of the shift rod looks like its been welded and ground with a grinder like it snapped and been joint. It hasnt come from the factory like that has it?,"Well, the engine got another set of coils from another boat (no change), then we put the carbs from that same other engine on it (again, no change). We even hooked it up to another fresh can of gas with a completely new fuel hose and the engine runs the same as it did before. Vintage Seadoo 2-strokes used to have a similar problem if the rectifier was going bad, can something similar happen to these Yama outboards? Last thing I can think of what it could be is a case leak, but that's such an uncommon thing I feel like.... this engine has been rebuilt previously (about 3yr ago), but I have a hard time believing a case leak could just form. I feel like I've run out of straws to grasp..." +"Hy Guys! +I need help with my outboard engine motor yamaha 225(2004), +How to turn off service alarm? +Thanks +Ps everything is working fine. +Thanks",When does the alarm start sounding? At key-on? Immediately after you start it? After it's been running for a while?,When does the alarm start sounding? At key-on? Immediately after you start it? After it's been running for a while?,"SoCalAngler said: + + + + Verified with several Yamaha dealer service depts.....there are NO water pump kit torque specs, at least for my year/model. Hand tight to feel is what I was told by each dealer's service dept techs. + +NOTE: My previous Honda outboards (5-50hp) did provide these torque specs. + +Click to expand... + + + +NOTE: Hand tight with proper tool, not with bare hand!!" +"Hy Guys! +I need help with my outboard engine motor yamaha 225(2004), +How to turn off service alarm? +Thanks +Ps everything is working fine. +Thanks","rejesterd said: + + + + When does the alarm start sounding? At key-on? Immediately after you start it? After it's been running for a while? + +Click to expand... + + +At key-on.","rejesterd said: + + + + When does the alarm start sounding? At key-on? Immediately after you start it? After it's been running for a while? + +Click to expand... + + +At key-on.",It runs all the time when engine is running. 3 -4 seconds when you turn key on +"Hy Guys! +I need help with my outboard engine motor yamaha 225(2004), +How to turn off service alarm? +Thanks +Ps everything is working fine. +Thanks","I assume it keeps buzzing indefinitely at key-on. If it's a short buzz, that would be normal. + +I would disconnect the thermoswitch and the oil pressure switch, then see if it still buzzes. Those switches are the usual things that make the buzzer sound. But normally, the engine has to be running for those to trigger the buzzer. + +The other thing that makes the buzzer sound is the neutral safety switch. But if you can start the engine with no problems, then I don't think it would be related to that.","I assume it keeps buzzing indefinitely at key-on. If it's a short buzz, that would be normal. + +I would disconnect the thermoswitch and the oil pressure switch, then see if it still buzzes. Those switches are the usual things that make the buzzer sound. But normally, the engine has to be running for those to trigger the buzzer. + +The other thing that makes the buzzer sound is the neutral safety switch. But if you can start the engine with no problems, then I don't think it would be related to that.",How did he determine that? +"My sons boat has a Yamaha f40 that came with a 2 micron racor fuel filter and I'm going to replace as preventive maintenance, was wondering if 2 micron is too much restriction for the fuel pump. I read somewhere that sometimes 2 restrictive filters can damage pumps, is that true, should I just replace it with a 10 microns filter? + +I ordered the new filter last night and canceled it today just in case. + +Thanks in advance","Yes, I've read the same and it makes sense. I would go with a 10 micron.","Yes, I've read the same and it makes sense. I would go with a 10 micron.","Thats what I was trying to avoid...You are probably right. +THANKS!!" +"My sons boat has a Yamaha f40 that came with a 2 micron racor fuel filter and I'm going to replace as preventive maintenance, was wondering if 2 micron is too much restriction for the fuel pump. I read somewhere that sometimes 2 restrictive filters can damage pumps, is that true, should I just replace it with a 10 microns filter? + +I ordered the new filter last night and canceled it today just in case. + +Thanks in advance","A clean 2 micron filter won't hurt anything. A dirty 10 micron filter can starve the motor of gasoline. + +Neither will damage a fuel pump. + +Other fuel restrictions, of which there are many, can come into play. + +The real issue is that some two strokes can be damaged if and when the fuel supply is restricted, causing the motor to run lean for a period of time.","A clean 2 micron filter won't hurt anything. A dirty 10 micron filter can starve the motor of gasoline. + +Neither will damage a fuel pump. + +Other fuel restrictions, of which there are many, can come into play. + +The real issue is that some two strokes can be damaged if and when the fuel supply is restricted, causing the motor to run lean for a period of time.","you may have a high resistance between the battery and the switch....voltage may be present until you start to try to draw current and then the voltage is dropped across the high resistance...with the switch on you say no output to the switch....do you still have voltage at the input to the switch at this time?...if that voltage is there on the input with the switch off and is gone with the switch on then the problem is as described...probably right at the battery terminal..if the voltage is still there at the input with the switch on and missing on the output of the switch then you have a bad switch... + + +note...when measuring voltage....if you have an open then you can find it without trying to draw current...if however you have a high resistance connection you will have to draw current to measure the drop.." +"My sons boat has a Yamaha f40 that came with a 2 micron racor fuel filter and I'm going to replace as preventive maintenance, was wondering if 2 micron is too much restriction for the fuel pump. I read somewhere that sometimes 2 restrictive filters can damage pumps, is that true, should I just replace it with a 10 microns filter? + +I ordered the new filter last night and canceled it today just in case. + +Thanks in advance","boscoe said: + + + + A clean 2 micron filter won't hurt anything. A dirty 10 micron filter can starve the motor of gasoline. + +Neither will damage a fuel pump. + +Other fuel restrictions, of which there are many, can come into play. + + +The real issue is that some two strokes can be damaged if and when the fuel supply is restricted, causing the motor to run lean for a period of time. + +Click to expand... + + +That make sense.","boscoe said: + + + + A clean 2 micron filter won't hurt anything. A dirty 10 micron filter can starve the motor of gasoline. + +Neither will damage a fuel pump. + +Other fuel restrictions, of which there are many, can come into play. + + +The real issue is that some two strokes can be damaged if and when the fuel supply is restricted, causing the motor to run lean for a period of time. + +Click to expand... + + +That make sense.","Yea it randomly started at the end of my last trip out. Bogged down at full throttle a few times, that went away and runs fine there but now developed that rough idle and squeak. Gear oil checked and good, impeller was just changed over the summer and pisses good water, not hot water. Compression is good across all three cylinders, 115-120. No water in my gear oil. Oil injection seems to be functioning properly as well." +"Hey folks, + +I have a 17ft fibreglass ski boat. Currently I have a 13x21K propeller which is a little old and has seen its days. It runs great and get me out of the hole with no problem. I am WOT 4900RPM with 2-3 people. The local boat shop has a second hand great condition stainless steel 13X17 propeller with 15 tooth spline and they are offering it for $100 depending on who I speak too. + +Would I benefit by using this lower pitch propeller? I usually cruise around 3500-3800RPM comfortably with the 13X21 but hoping that the 13X17 stainless might be a good deal (Better fuel economy at cruise speed?) and soon I will be hauling some friends on a tube also taking 4-6 big guys on the open ocean. Any advice in this regard? Buy the 13x17 or save my $ for a 13X19 aluminium ?",Prop your engine to achieve specified max RPM @WOT. That is what you need to do.,Prop your engine to achieve specified max RPM @WOT. That is what you need to do.,There's some minor gouges on the spindle. But they aren't deep enough to make thehub move like it does +"Hey folks, + +I have a 17ft fibreglass ski boat. Currently I have a 13x21K propeller which is a little old and has seen its days. It runs great and get me out of the hole with no problem. I am WOT 4900RPM with 2-3 people. The local boat shop has a second hand great condition stainless steel 13X17 propeller with 15 tooth spline and they are offering it for $100 depending on who I speak too. + +Would I benefit by using this lower pitch propeller? I usually cruise around 3500-3800RPM comfortably with the 13X21 but hoping that the 13X17 stainless might be a good deal (Better fuel economy at cruise speed?) and soon I will be hauling some friends on a tube also taking 4-6 big guys on the open ocean. Any advice in this regard? Buy the 13x17 or save my $ for a 13X19 aluminium ?","I would give it a try. You are over propped right now. However, going down four inches of pitch might be a bit much. You can only tell by installing and testing the propeller. See if they will loan it to you for a while. Load the boat and then run it at wide open throttle. Motor only trimmed up to the point of best efficiency and no further. Ideally you want the motor to be turning at or near its red line RPM of 5500.","I would give it a try. You are over propped right now. However, going down four inches of pitch might be a bit much. You can only tell by installing and testing the propeller. See if they will loan it to you for a while. Load the boat and then run it at wide open throttle. Motor only trimmed up to the point of best efficiency and no further. Ideally you want the motor to be turning at or near its red line RPM of 5500.","Maybe you have a bad plug? bad wire? Don't think so. I swapped out the coil with another cylinder, the other cylinder with the #6 coil fired fine on the ""new"" cylinder but #6 still didn't. Changed plugs too, no change, still no fire on #6. Changed the CPS and the pulser coil, #6 fires now. Still seems to be in rpm reduction no more than 3000 rpm." +"Hey folks, + +I have a 17ft fibreglass ski boat. Currently I have a 13x21K propeller which is a little old and has seen its days. It runs great and get me out of the hole with no problem. I am WOT 4900RPM with 2-3 people. The local boat shop has a second hand great condition stainless steel 13X17 propeller with 15 tooth spline and they are offering it for $100 depending on who I speak too. + +Would I benefit by using this lower pitch propeller? I usually cruise around 3500-3800RPM comfortably with the 13X21 but hoping that the 13X17 stainless might be a good deal (Better fuel economy at cruise speed?) and soon I will be hauling some friends on a tube also taking 4-6 big guys on the open ocean. Any advice in this regard? Buy the 13x17 or save my $ for a 13X19 aluminium ?",Well that sort of seems to answer the question. Wondering if they will loan the prop with a deposit to see if it works out. Yeah I still think the 19 prop is the best route to go but 17 SS might work out in the end. Only a test run will tell. Ok tomorrow I will go see if it’s still available and give it a whirl.,Well that sort of seems to answer the question. Wondering if they will loan the prop with a deposit to see if it works out. Yeah I still think the 19 prop is the best route to go but 17 SS might work out in the end. Only a test run will tell. Ok tomorrow I will go see if it’s still available and give it a whirl.,"ok thanks again Cheif! as you can see I am a nervous wreck! LOL just trying to cover all bases as the time to move is near.And yes we will be stopping over night along the way,My wife is going to be driving the U-haul truck pulling the boat and I am driving the Durango folling her.Believe it or not shes the better driver and carries a CDL her and her ex-husband owned a trucking company so shes taking the lead LOL all our children are grown and gone now but we have 4 more children the furry ones 2 Beagles and a rotweiler and a Beguim shepard LOL so yes we will be making a lot of stops!" +"Hey folks, + +I have a 17ft fibreglass ski boat. Currently I have a 13x21K propeller which is a little old and has seen its days. It runs great and get me out of the hole with no problem. I am WOT 4900RPM with 2-3 people. The local boat shop has a second hand great condition stainless steel 13X17 propeller with 15 tooth spline and they are offering it for $100 depending on who I speak too. + +Would I benefit by using this lower pitch propeller? I usually cruise around 3500-3800RPM comfortably with the 13X21 but hoping that the 13X17 stainless might be a good deal (Better fuel economy at cruise speed?) and soon I will be hauling some friends on a tube also taking 4-6 big guys on the open ocean. Any advice in this regard? Buy the 13x17 or save my $ for a 13X19 aluminium ?","Dunno your model year....but most likely spec rpm range at WOT is 4500-5500. As boscoe stated, your over propped w/21"". But the 17"" will prob put you out of range. I have a 17' fiber cc w/'98 115hp. I also had a 21"" overprop issue. Trialed a 17""...high 5k. Then trialed 18"" merc ss that put me right at top end rpm range.","Dunno your model year....but most likely spec rpm range at WOT is 4500-5500. As boscoe stated, your over propped w/21"". But the 17"" will prob put you out of range. I have a 17' fiber cc w/'98 115hp. I also had a 21"" overprop issue. Trialed a 17""...high 5k. Then trialed 18"" merc ss that put me right at top end rpm range.",Bare with me man but what part of the rewire could be causing the issue? You think it's something that may still be wired incorrectly or something got shorted in the process and put the motor in limp mode? I didn't go in to the engine side of the harness just everything in the console. The situation gets more difficult. The boat was originally rigged for a mercury. At some point the previous owner put the Yamaha on it and cut the Yamaha plug off and spliced into the merc harness. +"Hey folks, + +I have a 17ft fibreglass ski boat. Currently I have a 13x21K propeller which is a little old and has seen its days. It runs great and get me out of the hole with no problem. I am WOT 4900RPM with 2-3 people. The local boat shop has a second hand great condition stainless steel 13X17 propeller with 15 tooth spline and they are offering it for $100 depending on who I speak too. + +Would I benefit by using this lower pitch propeller? I usually cruise around 3500-3800RPM comfortably with the 13X21 but hoping that the 13X17 stainless might be a good deal (Better fuel economy at cruise speed?) and soon I will be hauling some friends on a tube also taking 4-6 big guys on the open ocean. Any advice in this regard? Buy the 13x17 or save my $ for a 13X19 aluminium ?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Dunno your model year....but most likely spec rpm range at WOT is 4500-5500. As boscoe stated, your over propped w/21"". But the 17"" will prob put you out of range. I have a 17' fiber cc w/'98 115hp. I also had a 21"" overprop issue. Trialed a 17""...high 5k. Then trialed 18"" merc ss that put me right at top end rpm range. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. I have tried the 17 and it’s seems decent for cruising. The 21 was overkill but now the 17 seems decent.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Dunno your model year....but most likely spec rpm range at WOT is 4500-5500. As boscoe stated, your over propped w/21"". But the 17"" will prob put you out of range. I have a 17' fiber cc w/'98 115hp. I also had a 21"" overprop issue. Trialed a 17""...high 5k. Then trialed 18"" merc ss that put me right at top end rpm range. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. I have tried the 17 and it’s seems decent for cruising. The 21 was overkill but now the 17 seems decent.","maybe they are not 'live wells'.....if there's no pump, nothing you put into them will stay alive for long...." +"Havent used the boat in 8 months. Got stranded in the water today. Enginde didnt start followed by a long beep. I assumed was overheating. Left the engine cool down and started back up. Any suggestions what could be causing the heating problem? + +thanks","Take a look in the manual to confirm that one long beep does mean overheating. Those beeps are usually coded. When it started again, was there water coming out the tell tale? You may have just picked up a plastic bag or something while you were out or it may be a problem with your water pump. + +Stuart","Take a look in the manual to confirm that one long beep does mean overheating. Those beeps are usually coded. When it started again, was there water coming out the tell tale? You may have just picked up a plastic bag or something while you were out or it may be a problem with your water pump. + +Stuart","Your English is great. Better than my parlez vous francais. + +Regarding the shifting from neutral into forward and neutral into reverse I presume you are talking about when the motor is running. I would make sure that both the throttle and shift cables are securely attached in the motor. The clip that holds them in place has been known to come loose which can affect either the throttle cable or the shift cable. + +The motor should be in neutral when the lower unit is removed. When servicing the lower unit the shift control should not be moved. Having said that, it sounds like yours are out of phase. I have used a pair of channel lock type pliers with the jaws padded so as to not damage the shift rod splines. You can go in one direction to find reverse and then go in the other direction to find forward. Then split the difference which will be neutral. Once in neutral confirm it by making sure the propeller shaft turns freely in both directions. If it is difficult to shift the motor into a gear have someone turn the propeller shaft as it will help it to shift. + +Reinstall the lower unit making sure the shift rod and shift shaft splines line up. Secure the lower unit in place with just one bolt. Running the motor on flush muffs start and let it idle. Make sure that it shifts freely from neutral to forward, to neutral to reverse, then back to neutral. If it does, install and tighten the rest of the bolts." +"Havent used the boat in 8 months. Got stranded in the water today. Enginde didnt start followed by a long beep. I assumed was overheating. Left the engine cool down and started back up. Any suggestions what could be causing the heating problem? + +thanks","DangarStu said: + + + + Take a look in the manual to confirm that one long beep does mean overheating. Those beeps are usually coded. When it started again, was there water coming out the tell tale? You may have just picked up a plastic bag or something while you were out or it may be a problem with your water pump. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +Sitting eight months I would consider changing the water pump impeller. Sitting to long it gets memory and water by passes it when turning. Next check the thermostat. Here again sitting to long could be rusted and a little closed.","DangarStu said: + + + + Take a look in the manual to confirm that one long beep does mean overheating. Those beeps are usually coded. When it started again, was there water coming out the tell tale? You may have just picked up a plastic bag or something while you were out or it may be a problem with your water pump. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +Sitting eight months I would consider changing the water pump impeller. Sitting to long it gets memory and water by passes it when turning. Next check the thermostat. Here again sitting to long could be rusted and a little closed.",Can't enter year and model into www.simyamaha.com +"New to me AB rib with a 40TLR6. Did the usual change outs, including a new impeller kit. Old one appeared pretty new, and coming off a 72 Marlow Explorer, it probably was. + +On a hose in the driveway, lots of water coming out of the telltale at all RPMs. I assume from pressure of the hose. +In the bay, the engine will start normal, run normal, but after a while of idling, will have stopped circulating, and overheats. If I leave the idle high, or run the boat, then it goes well, and plenty of telltale. As soon as I come off plane, sometimes it keeps pumping, and sometimes I am overheating within a couple of minutes. VERY perplexing, and somewhat intermittent. The only common thing is it only happens on idle. +I will backflush tomorrow. Any other things to look at first? Pretty sure I used the whole impeller kit including a new woodruff key.",Was the impeller housing (plastic and metal) and wear plate replaced when the impeller was?,Was the impeller housing (plastic and metal) and wear plate replaced when the impeller was?,TheBubba-Thanks so much. That worked! She's gets the full power trial tomorrow. +"New to me AB rib with a 40TLR6. Did the usual change outs, including a new impeller kit. Old one appeared pretty new, and coming off a 72 Marlow Explorer, it probably was. + +On a hose in the driveway, lots of water coming out of the telltale at all RPMs. I assume from pressure of the hose. +In the bay, the engine will start normal, run normal, but after a while of idling, will have stopped circulating, and overheats. If I leave the idle high, or run the boat, then it goes well, and plenty of telltale. As soon as I come off plane, sometimes it keeps pumping, and sometimes I am overheating within a couple of minutes. VERY perplexing, and somewhat intermittent. The only common thing is it only happens on idle. +I will backflush tomorrow. Any other things to look at first? Pretty sure I used the whole impeller kit including a new woodruff key.","370Dancer said: + + + + New to me AB rib with a 40TLR6. Did the usual change outs, including a new impeller kit. Old one appeared pretty new, and coming off a 72 Marlow Explorer, it probably was. + +On a hose in the driveway, lots of water coming out of the telltale at all RPMs. I assume from pressure of the hose. +In the bay, the engine will start normal, run normal, but after a while of idling, will have stopped circulating, and overheats. If I leave the idle high, or run the boat, then it goes well, and plenty of telltale. As soon as I come off plane, sometimes it keeps pumping, and sometimes I am overheating within a couple of minutes. VERY perplexing, and somewhat intermittent. The only common thing is it only happens on idle. +I will backflush tomorrow. Any other things to look at first? Pretty sure I used the whole impeller kit including a new woodruff key. + +Click to expand... + + +Check you thermostat . It could be rusted and sticking part open or not at all..","370Dancer said: + + + + New to me AB rib with a 40TLR6. Did the usual change outs, including a new impeller kit. Old one appeared pretty new, and coming off a 72 Marlow Explorer, it probably was. + +On a hose in the driveway, lots of water coming out of the telltale at all RPMs. I assume from pressure of the hose. +In the bay, the engine will start normal, run normal, but after a while of idling, will have stopped circulating, and overheats. If I leave the idle high, or run the boat, then it goes well, and plenty of telltale. As soon as I come off plane, sometimes it keeps pumping, and sometimes I am overheating within a couple of minutes. VERY perplexing, and somewhat intermittent. The only common thing is it only happens on idle. +I will backflush tomorrow. Any other things to look at first? Pretty sure I used the whole impeller kit including a new woodruff key. + +Click to expand... + + +Check you thermostat . It could be rusted and sticking part open or not at all..",Thanks for sharing your solution. Please do share how you diagnosed and discovered those defective wires so others here don't have to go through what I recomended. +"New to me AB rib with a 40TLR6. Did the usual change outs, including a new impeller kit. Old one appeared pretty new, and coming off a 72 Marlow Explorer, it probably was. + +On a hose in the driveway, lots of water coming out of the telltale at all RPMs. I assume from pressure of the hose. +In the bay, the engine will start normal, run normal, but after a while of idling, will have stopped circulating, and overheats. If I leave the idle high, or run the boat, then it goes well, and plenty of telltale. As soon as I come off plane, sometimes it keeps pumping, and sometimes I am overheating within a couple of minutes. VERY perplexing, and somewhat intermittent. The only common thing is it only happens on idle. +I will backflush tomorrow. Any other things to look at first? Pretty sure I used the whole impeller kit including a new woodruff key.","I used the entire impeller kit. + +I thought I checked the thermostat, but that could have been another engine. I work on a lot. This seems pressure related. Higher RPMs, water flows. On the garden hose, water flows. Idle around for a while, no more water flow, and then overheat alarm. I'll try to backflush today.","I used the entire impeller kit. + +I thought I checked the thermostat, but that could have been another engine. I work on a lot. This seems pressure related. Higher RPMs, water flows. On the garden hose, water flows. Idle around for a while, no more water flow, and then overheat alarm. I'll try to backflush today.","if you want to stiffen up the transom, a piece of angle may give better results" +"New to me AB rib with a 40TLR6. Did the usual change outs, including a new impeller kit. Old one appeared pretty new, and coming off a 72 Marlow Explorer, it probably was. + +On a hose in the driveway, lots of water coming out of the telltale at all RPMs. I assume from pressure of the hose. +In the bay, the engine will start normal, run normal, but after a while of idling, will have stopped circulating, and overheats. If I leave the idle high, or run the boat, then it goes well, and plenty of telltale. As soon as I come off plane, sometimes it keeps pumping, and sometimes I am overheating within a couple of minutes. VERY perplexing, and somewhat intermittent. The only common thing is it only happens on idle. +I will backflush tomorrow. Any other things to look at first? Pretty sure I used the whole impeller kit including a new woodruff key.",Thought I would post the eventual issue in case someone else is searching this. Turns out I had the gasket on the wrong side of the plate. Duh,Thought I would post the eventual issue in case someone else is searching this. Turns out I had the gasket on the wrong side of the plate. Duh,"Going to fix it right. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Darn good idea,.... + +Be aware, P/T wood has chemicals that eats away aluminum,....." +does anyone know the compression check on a 2001 yamaha 4 stroke 100hp. ?,"According to the service manual from 2000, the minimum compression spec is 135 psi.","According to the service manual from 2000, the minimum compression spec is 135 psi.","racerone said: + + + + There is a spot on the intake manifold where you mount a simple pump.---Just in front of the starter motor.-------A pump like found on the 88 HP versions of your motor.-----The pump should have 2 nipples one for fuel in and one for fuel out.------The pump mounts directly over the PRESSURE port with 2 screws 10-24NC thread and a gasket.-----The plug has to be removed from the pressure port.------Plug the port where VRO got pressure. + +Click to expand... + + + + +Thank you very much, but it is possible to just mix the fuel and unplug the oil injection part and should work also in a pinch rightt? Thanks. Again" +does anyone know the compression check on a 2001 yamaha 4 stroke 100hp. ?,thanks,thanks,"Well, my first seal source sent the wrong ram seal in their kit. Too small on the OD and too short on height. Ram diameter is right. They'll be getting this kit back! +Trying singles ordered from The O-Ring Store next." +Hello. I have a 50 elf motor which doesnt want to idle at less than 2000 rpm. if below that then the tach needle is bouncing and there is a lot of smoke ( running rich). cleaned the carbs and replaced the fuel pump. that helped but not a lot. anyone have ideas? it runs nice and smooth after 3000 rpm,"Ok, did a compression test. 125 psi in all three cylinders.","Ok, did a compression test. 125 psi in all three cylinders.","not exactly sure what you're asking.....the cables remove pretty easily....pull the nut and washer and then liberate the barrels from the clips. usually the old cables can be used to pull the new ones up to the box - sometimes, its easier to pull the old ones towards the engine. + +The box end is usually more involved but not any harder....once new cables are in the box, follow the procedure to adjust the barrels and then reassemble things at the engine...." +Hello. I have a 50 elf motor which doesnt want to idle at less than 2000 rpm. if below that then the tach needle is bouncing and there is a lot of smoke ( running rich). cleaned the carbs and replaced the fuel pump. that helped but not a lot. anyone have ideas? it runs nice and smooth after 3000 rpm,"Try a cylinder drop test,pulling one plug wire at a time with plastic pliers,listen for a sound and rpm change, The one with no change is the bad one","Try a cylinder drop test,pulling one plug wire at a time with plastic pliers,listen for a sound and rpm change, The one with no change is the bad one","Oh my bad, thought it had an O2 Sen" +Hello. I have a 50 elf motor which doesnt want to idle at less than 2000 rpm. if below that then the tach needle is bouncing and there is a lot of smoke ( running rich). cleaned the carbs and replaced the fuel pump. that helped but not a lot. anyone have ideas? it runs nice and smooth after 3000 rpm,"ok will try that. the problem is when there is a lot of smoke below 2000 rpm, I get that speed by running the motor very rich so that it almost floods out, and it seems to be firing too good. the only way I get the rpm down is by running blubering rich, with butterflies fully closed, and it still runs too fast after that","ok will try that. the problem is when there is a lot of smoke below 2000 rpm, I get that speed by running the motor very rich so that it almost floods out, and it seems to be firing too good. the only way I get the rpm down is by running blubering rich, with butterflies fully closed, and it still runs too fast after that","I couldn't find wiring schematic for 2003 F90. Below is the schematic for the 2004 F90. Should be the same. Looks like the 2 fuses protect the PTT motor and relay and starter motor and relay. If you don't have a service manual, now is a good time to get one. There are procedures detailed for meter testing each system." +Hello. I have a 50 elf motor which doesnt want to idle at less than 2000 rpm. if below that then the tach needle is bouncing and there is a lot of smoke ( running rich). cleaned the carbs and replaced the fuel pump. that helped but not a lot. anyone have ideas? it runs nice and smooth after 3000 rpm,YAY - finally got the idle down. some idiot before me thought the timing advance made the motor idle faster. it was cranked to FULL ADVANCE at idle. I turned it down and it had an instant effect - idles smooth and slow,YAY - finally got the idle down. some idiot before me thought the timing advance made the motor idle faster. it was cranked to FULL ADVANCE at idle. I turned it down and it had an instant effect - idles smooth and slow,Thanks for the input dark_star! I thought it was rod/piston but I got word today that my lower unit is the cause!$$$$$$ +"I replaced the water pump in my new to me 2009 40 fla 4 stroke. Iv'e done them before and never have had a problem. I'm still not getting a stream and over heat alarm comes on. Just recieved a new thermostat and will see how that goes. Could it be something else? Thanks in advance +Dana","Hi. + +If you're not getting a stream, a new thermostat won't fix it. You should get a stream regardless of whether the thermostat is open or not. + +Maybe the woodruff key wasn't installed properly or the outlet hole isn't lined up with the water passage. Whatever it is, I would say you need to drop the lower unit again and open up the water pump housing again.","Hi. + +If you're not getting a stream, a new thermostat won't fix it. You should get a stream regardless of whether the thermostat is open or not. + +Maybe the woodruff key wasn't installed properly or the outlet hole isn't lined up with the water passage. Whatever it is, I would say you need to drop the lower unit again and open up the water pump housing again.","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,..... Actually, a stand-pipe drain is the best,....... + +Otherwise, the bait tries to swim out the drain tube, or with a screen over it, the screen gets clogged with the bait's shed scales,...... + +Click to expand... + + I've decided to use a 40quart w/ a 500GPH this drain in upper side of cooler. +https://www.amazon.com/Marine-ODT-1-DP-Overflow-Drain-Tube/dp/B0000AXQSQ + +I was planning a drain tube (just a tube) near top of cooler, use 800GPH to fill tank then use 500GPH to momentarily recirculate. + +here's the cooler LW" +"I replaced the water pump in my new to me 2009 40 fla 4 stroke. Iv'e done them before and never have had a problem. I'm still not getting a stream and over heat alarm comes on. Just recieved a new thermostat and will see how that goes. Could it be something else? Thanks in advance +Dana","That's what I was thinking but hoped not. +Thanks for the reply. +Dana","That's what I was thinking but hoped not. +Thanks for the reply. +Dana",3 ~ 5 psi normally. Not to exceed 7 psi. +"I replaced the water pump in my new to me 2009 40 fla 4 stroke. Iv'e done them before and never have had a problem. I'm still not getting a stream and over heat alarm comes on. Just recieved a new thermostat and will see how that goes. Could it be something else? Thanks in advance +Dana","replaced a small rubber collet that goes under a white plastic guide that the feed tube to the motor slides in. All is well +Thanks again rejesterd +Hard to believe that's all it was","replaced a small rubber collet that goes under a white plastic guide that the feed tube to the motor slides in. All is well +Thanks again rejesterd +Hard to believe that's all it was","solved my own problem, the screw on the top of oil pump to relieve any air in the system +was leaking, drained all oil and removed screw, installed another small plastic washer with the same one that came with the new pump and the oil stopped leaking, watch how tight you install the screw, now i see no oil leaking. hope any one with this problem this will help them Bobby v" +"I replaced the water pump in my new to me 2009 40 fla 4 stroke. Iv'e done them before and never have had a problem. I'm still not getting a stream and over heat alarm comes on. Just recieved a new thermostat and will see how that goes. Could it be something else? Thanks in advance +Dana",Excellent. Enjoy.,Excellent. Enjoy.,"Hi Bondo, Will have a search around and hopefully it's available. +Let you know what happens. +Cheers." +"Hello! +I feel less than smart saying this but as the thread title says I cant figure out how to increase the RPMs while in neutral. +Is it not possible with these new no cable electronic Yamaha engines? +In the past I liked to bump the engine speed a little bit in neutral to get the water pump tell tale going and warm the engine a little at about 1000-1100 rpms. Cant see anyway to do this with the electronic binacle. +Any advice will be appreciated. +THANKS",I don't think it is doable with the electronic controls. Not needed. The engine is designed to automatically run a bit faster than normal when it is cold. The idle speed will come down once the motor is out of warm up mode.,I don't think it is doable with the electronic controls. Not needed. The engine is designed to automatically run a bit faster than normal when it is cold. The idle speed will come down once the motor is out of warm up mode.,"Jon Blair said: + + + + Ok Went and bought a 1969 Stevens V-haul and it has a Merc 1000 on it I see the fill tank for the fuel in the rear of the boat but there is no fuel tank what is needed here to get me in business cuz im confused a bit with fuel pumps needed on some but not others sending units etc please help. Thanks + +Click to expand... + + + + +Jon Blair said: + + + + Noone ? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Tryin' to figure out what yer askin',.... + +Ya need a Fuel Tank, that fits the hull, at the end of the fuel fill hose,..." +"Hello! +I feel less than smart saying this but as the thread title says I cant figure out how to increase the RPMs while in neutral. +Is it not possible with these new no cable electronic Yamaha engines? +In the past I liked to bump the engine speed a little bit in neutral to get the water pump tell tale going and warm the engine a little at about 1000-1100 rpms. Cant see anyway to do this with the electronic binacle. +Any advice will be appreciated. +THANKS",Thanks Boscoe. I bought the boat and motor privately and the fellow I got it from has no clue about it either. The Yamaha manual makes no mention of this. It runs fine however It does not idle fast on start up as you describe. It starts at 700 rpm and idles steady. It just bugs me that I cant figure it out. I have had many Yamaha engines in the past and this is a first. I feel there must be a means of revving this thing a little and there are times when that can be helpful. Googling the question comes up with zilch.,Thanks Boscoe. I bought the boat and motor privately and the fellow I got it from has no clue about it either. The Yamaha manual makes no mention of this. It runs fine however It does not idle fast on start up as you describe. It starts at 700 rpm and idles steady. It just bugs me that I cant figure it out. I have had many Yamaha engines in the past and this is a first. I feel there must be a means of revving this thing a little and there are times when that can be helpful. Googling the question comes up with zilch.,"Your first outboard motor ?-----Blue smoke is normal on a 2 stroke motor.----It has to show some smoke !----Amount of visible smoke can be reduced with certain oils.----If you just got this motor you must install a new water pump impeller.----Did you check oil in the lower unit ?----I do not believe the "" chip "" sound has anything to do with an oil seal !" +"Hello! +I feel less than smart saying this but as the thread title says I cant figure out how to increase the RPMs while in neutral. +Is it not possible with these new no cable electronic Yamaha engines? +In the past I liked to bump the engine speed a little bit in neutral to get the water pump tell tale going and warm the engine a little at about 1000-1100 rpms. Cant see anyway to do this with the electronic binacle. +Any advice will be appreciated. +THANKS","I have looked at the parts catalog. There is no way to ""fast idle"" the motor. As you note. the owner's manual makes no mention of this. Rightfully so it appears. Nothing to figure out. + +Actually, there is no reason to do so. The motor is computer controlled. Just let it do its job. + +I read about folks racing a motor in neutral. Maybe the motor maker changed the design to prevent folks from doing this. + +In our EFI automobiles and trucks, I can't recall the last time I had to press the accelerator pedal to fast idle the motor.","I have looked at the parts catalog. There is no way to ""fast idle"" the motor. As you note. the owner's manual makes no mention of this. Rightfully so it appears. Nothing to figure out. + +Actually, there is no reason to do so. The motor is computer controlled. Just let it do its job. + +I read about folks racing a motor in neutral. Maybe the motor maker changed the design to prevent folks from doing this. + +In our EFI automobiles and trucks, I can't recall the last time I had to press the accelerator pedal to fast idle the motor.","[FONT="]A steady constant beep is the overheat warning.[/FONT] Did you check the water pump operation. Since you just bought the boat, you should replace this pump." +"Hello! +I feel less than smart saying this but as the thread title says I cant figure out how to increase the RPMs while in neutral. +Is it not possible with these new no cable electronic Yamaha engines? +In the past I liked to bump the engine speed a little bit in neutral to get the water pump tell tale going and warm the engine a little at about 1000-1100 rpms. Cant see anyway to do this with the electronic binacle. +Any advice will be appreciated. +THANKS","Thanks Boscoe, + I surrender to progress ;0) +However ... +In our cars we can give a rev in park or neutral to examine any engine sound we are skeptical of to see if it changes with rpm. +In my 50 years of owning outboards I found it helpful to bump the idle to get the water pump moving water and to also evaluate engine sounds when diagnosing and most importantly when winterizing and fogging. Old habits die hard. 1st world problems.","Thanks Boscoe, + I surrender to progress ;0) +However ... +In our cars we can give a rev in park or neutral to examine any engine sound we are skeptical of to see if it changes with rpm. +In my 50 years of owning outboards I found it helpful to bump the idle to get the water pump moving water and to also evaluate engine sounds when diagnosing and most importantly when winterizing and fogging. Old habits die hard. 1st world problems.","cool man + +cool man" +"Hello! +I feel less than smart saying this but as the thread title says I cant figure out how to increase the RPMs while in neutral. +Is it not possible with these new no cable electronic Yamaha engines? +In the past I liked to bump the engine speed a little bit in neutral to get the water pump tell tale going and warm the engine a little at about 1000-1100 rpms. Cant see anyway to do this with the electronic binacle. +Any advice will be appreciated. +THANKS","I don't know the controls you have, but on a number of other brands you hold the station select switch down as you move into gear and that prevents the gears from changing as you advance the throttle. Whether Yamaha has incorporated this idea I don't know.","I don't know the controls you have, but on a number of other brands you hold the station select switch down as you move into gear and that prevents the gears from changing as you advance the throttle. Whether Yamaha has incorporated this idea I don't know.","""I have a clear bowl & the + +""I have a clear bowl & the filter that was on didn't have that many hours on it,the problem was the layup & trying to leave before daylight.I know I screwed up,when I am lobster fishing I check the bowl everyday,I should have checked the bowl when the boat was at my cousins but I was to busy thinking about catching cod & haddock.The sad thing is it doesn't take gallons of water just a little bit of water will cause the reaction if you don't use the gas within the 3 week period.We are having a hard time here in Maine with gas right from the pumps,a friend of mine that works on engines put some gas that he bought right into a glass jar & in no time it started to change.The Honda dealer here was pulling his hair out by the end of the boating season & he even called the gas supplier to bitch them out but it didn't do any good.""" +"Hello! +I feel less than smart saying this but as the thread title says I cant figure out how to increase the RPMs while in neutral. +Is it not possible with these new no cable electronic Yamaha engines? +In the past I liked to bump the engine speed a little bit in neutral to get the water pump tell tale going and warm the engine a little at about 1000-1100 rpms. Cant see anyway to do this with the electronic binacle. +Any advice will be appreciated. +THANKS","Hello. + +You have to press and hold the free throttle switch on the side of the control box. Then move the lever forward, and release the switch after the indicator light starts blinking.","Hello. + +You have to press and hold the free throttle switch on the side of the control box. Then move the lever forward, and release the switch after the indicator light starts blinking.","It is used to indicate the position of the motor from the fully down position (trimmed down or in) up to the point where the tilt function begins. The top of the trim range if you will. + +The trim position is not used for any functionality of the motor itself in your specific model." +"Hello! +I feel less than smart saying this but as the thread title says I cant figure out how to increase the RPMs while in neutral. +Is it not possible with these new no cable electronic Yamaha engines? +In the past I liked to bump the engine speed a little bit in neutral to get the water pump tell tale going and warm the engine a little at about 1000-1100 rpms. Cant see anyway to do this with the electronic binacle. +Any advice will be appreciated. +THANKS","Yes, try pushing this button.","Yes, try pushing this button.",Does the Seloc book sold by this website go into detail on carburetor rebuild? +"Hello! +I feel less than smart saying this but as the thread title says I cant figure out how to increase the RPMs while in neutral. +Is it not possible with these new no cable electronic Yamaha engines? +In the past I liked to bump the engine speed a little bit in neutral to get the water pump tell tale going and warm the engine a little at about 1000-1100 rpms. Cant see anyway to do this with the electronic binacle. +Any advice will be appreciated. +THANKS",,,"Just to add to Johnny's recommendation, which I agree with. I have the same gauges. What the hair dryer does is vaporizes the moisture and forces it out of the bezel. You need to spend some time with the dryer on the gauges even after the moisture disappears because the air inside must be heated high enough to actually force the moisture out. A heat gun set on low will be a bit faster." +"We have a Yamaha F60 circa 2012 with 250 hours on the clock. + +We launched it after a 4 month lay up and the engine tilted up and down fine, we started it and all good, we then tilted it up to do checks and when we tried to tilt it down there was no movement. + +Both switches work, the relay clicks (new last year) and the tilt motor runs but no movement??? + +We went to manual and lowered the engine and then tilted it up manually (heavy) and still no movement. + +The next day it worked just fine again. Sounded normal. + +Any one have any ideas why it stopped working for that time even though the tilt motor was running. + +Ramos","Hi Ramos. + + +My thought is that air got in there somehow, and then when you manually tilted it up & down, that basically bled the air out. I would check the fluid level though.. if none flows out of the fill/check hole, then add more, tilt it up and down a few times, then top it off.","Hi Ramos. + + +My thought is that air got in there somehow, and then when you manually tilted it up & down, that basically bled the air out. I would check the fluid level though.. if none flows out of the fill/check hole, then add more, tilt it up and down a few times, then top it off.", +"I did a search and all I find on this topic is in the Evinrude forums hence the new thread. +I have a 1989 Yamaha FT 9.9 EXF which i bought new. I now have it on a different boat and its a little underpowered so before I put a bigger motor on I would like to try to increase the power of the existing motor. The manual shows 232cc with a full throttle range of 3500 - 4500 rpm which seems low. Anyway I was wondering if anyone has done this conversion and if its just a carb change or if there are other parts involved.",How can you say that all you find on this topic is in the Evinrude forums since you posted about this same matter in the Yamaha forums?,How can you say that all you find on this topic is in the Evinrude forums since you posted about this same matter in the Yamaha forums?,Have you looked into a thru hull transducer? You would need to cut a access hole in the deck and mold it into the hull just in front of the lowest part sitting in the water. +"I did a search and all I find on this topic is in the Evinrude forums hence the new thread. +I have a 1989 Yamaha FT 9.9 EXF which i bought new. I now have it on a different boat and its a little underpowered so before I put a bigger motor on I would like to try to increase the power of the existing motor. The manual shows 232cc with a full throttle range of 3500 - 4500 rpm which seems low. Anyway I was wondering if anyone has done this conversion and if its just a carb change or if there are other parts involved.","Yeah, I found it just after I started this thread, sorry. Do you have any knowledge on the subject to add?","Yeah, I found it just after I started this thread, sorry. Do you have any knowledge on the subject to add?","They all run "" great "" on a hose.----It will bark and roar at 5000 RPM on 2 of 4 cylinders !" +"I have found descriptions and parts for 1996+ motors but can’t seem to find anything for Motors from the 80’s. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.",https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AdCeV9WoEo&list=PLSqX2XGz2LPyTv0cH-xw6ZqYzSsbOto13,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AdCeV9WoEo&list=PLSqX2XGz2LPyTv0cH-xw6ZqYzSsbOto13,thanks for that-I will get a picture and send it on with a few more queries !! +"I have found descriptions and parts for 1996+ motors but can’t seem to find anything for Motors from the 80’s. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.",Thank you,Thank you,You will need to have a WEMA style fuel sender in your tank for this to work correctly. +"I have found descriptions and parts for 1996+ motors but can’t seem to find anything for Motors from the 80’s. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.",did you understand?,did you understand?,"Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +You double-checked all your connections? It would be too coincidental that the tilt/trim and the starter both went out. I'm guessing (1)they are connected to the other battery, or (2)that you have a bad cable connection. Hit both ends of the + and the - cables with some crocus cloth and rough them up a little and try again. + +Usually the dash stuff is connected to a different battery than the starter battery, I think that is your most obvious fix." +"I have found descriptions and parts for 1996+ motors but can’t seem to find anything for Motors from the 80’s. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.","I understood the numbers, but not much else.","I understood the numbers, but not much else.","With regards to the thermostat, it is just if the gasket is bad and it is leaking externally. I have seen this several times spray water up under the flywheel and short the electrics. If you can't see any sign of water coming from the gasket it won't be the problem. + +Stuart" +"I have found descriptions and parts for 1996+ motors but can’t seem to find anything for Motors from the 80’s. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.","Yamaha US parts books go back to 1984. + +What is it that you are looking for? + +Yamaha does not offer a modification conversion kit.","Yamaha US parts books go back to 1984. + +What is it that you are looking for? + +Yamaha does not offer a modification conversion kit.",Hi I have the same problem but mine is a hpdi. Do you have any suggestions on how to fix it if it's an EFI? +"I have found descriptions and parts for 1996+ motors but can’t seem to find anything for Motors from the 80’s. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.","I was looking fo tips or advice on how to convert my 9.9 to 15, there seems to be all kinds of info for other brands of motors and different model years etc. I was having a hard time finding info on my specific motor.","I was looking fo tips or advice on how to convert my 9.9 to 15, there seems to be all kinds of info for other brands of motors and different model years etc. I was having a hard time finding info on my specific motor.","Thank you Sir, unrestricted fuel flow into the fuel cell when the dip was eliminated." +"I have found descriptions and parts for 1996+ motors but can’t seem to find anything for Motors from the 80’s. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.","What is your exact model? + +What you can do is to go to the Yam parts catalog for your model. Then open up the catalog for the same year 15. Compare the parts differences. Whatever is used on the 15 HP model can be purchased and used on your 9.9 HP model to replace the 9.9 HP equivalent parts. + +Might be a CDI. Might be the carburetors. Might be the reed valves. Might be the air intake system or some part thereof.","What is your exact model? + +What you can do is to go to the Yam parts catalog for your model. Then open up the catalog for the same year 15. Compare the parts differences. Whatever is used on the 15 HP model can be purchased and used on your 9.9 HP model to replace the 9.9 HP equivalent parts. + +Might be a CDI. Might be the carburetors. Might be the reed valves. Might be the air intake system or some part thereof.","boscoe said: + + + + Need the complete engine ID. + +This is a USA website. The F200AET was not sold here in the USA. With the ID an equivalent US model can be found. + +Click to expand... + + +Ill look up the Complete Engine ID. I assume F200AET is a typo as mine is an FET. Don't know if that makes any difference and i'm not trying to be funny. +Thanks for the reply." +"I have found descriptions and parts for 1996+ motors but can’t seem to find anything for Motors from the 80’s. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.",Ok! Thanks I will try that too.,Ok! Thanks I will try that too.,i checked and two of the mechanical fuel pumps were leaking. Went a head and replaced all three since i had it apart. went and did a test run yesterday and it was a lot better but still cutting out(surging) at lower speeds(3500 rpm's). Have to work until Thursday so I'll have to wait until then to do anymore troubleshooting. Want to say thanks for the help though. +"I have found descriptions and parts for 1996+ motors but can’t seem to find anything for Motors from the 80’s. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.","I just found this thread, were you able to find the parts and do the conversion Chris?","I just found this thread, were you able to find the parts and do the conversion Chris?",Well since no one chimed in. I decided to keep at it. I found the problem. I swapped the spark plugs and had a different situation. I replaced the bad plug (with 2 new ones) and that did the trick. Thanks for all your help. +"I have a 99 Yamaha 25 two stroke that's surging on top end. I have rebuilt the oil system, taken the carb apart numerous times while cleaning the Jets, float needle valve and flushing every port using alcohol. After all that it's still surging on top end. I Can start to feel it at a little more than half throttle and it gets worse the more throttle I give it. It surges every couple seconds and drops maybe 100-150 rpm if I had to guess. The hose is new and the fuel tank is new. Fuel filter is clean and spark plugs are new. What am I missing? Other than surging she runs great. + +Thanks in advance.","I know it's an old post. I have the exact thing with the exact motor, can't figure it out. Must be sucking air from somewhere? +The surge doesn't change as you pump the ball, even tied different tank and hose, same thing. + +Oil injection has been deleted on this motor and it's running premix. + +Thanks +Mike","I know it's an old post. I have the exact thing with the exact motor, can't figure it out. Must be sucking air from somewhere? +The surge doesn't change as you pump the ball, even tied different tank and hose, same thing. + +Oil injection has been deleted on this motor and it's running premix. + +Thanks +Mike","When I'm connecting the ground wires, or the negative ones, if I'd rather hook it upto battery, it would go to the cranking battery right?" +"I have a 99 Yamaha 25 two stroke that's surging on top end. I have rebuilt the oil system, taken the carb apart numerous times while cleaning the Jets, float needle valve and flushing every port using alcohol. After all that it's still surging on top end. I Can start to feel it at a little more than half throttle and it gets worse the more throttle I give it. It surges every couple seconds and drops maybe 100-150 rpm if I had to guess. The hose is new and the fuel tank is new. Fuel filter is clean and spark plugs are new. What am I missing? Other than surging she runs great. + +Thanks in advance.","Check your high speed mixture adjustment on both carbs. On mine the knurled end of the adjustment screw had popped off and it let the mixture slowly back out until it fell out which created a leak. I lucked up and found it laying in the bottom of the cowl. Bought a new screw and spring, adjusted and she was good to go.","Check your high speed mixture adjustment on both carbs. On mine the knurled end of the adjustment screw had popped off and it let the mixture slowly back out until it fell out which created a leak. I lucked up and found it laying in the bottom of the cowl. Bought a new screw and spring, adjusted and she was good to go.","There are several valves.. the up-main valve, the down-main valve, the up-relief valve, the down-relief valve and a check valve in the cylinder. I don't know enough to know which one (if any) is the problem, but that's how it's generally set up on Yamahas." +"I have a 99 Yamaha 25 two stroke that's surging on top end. I have rebuilt the oil system, taken the carb apart numerous times while cleaning the Jets, float needle valve and flushing every port using alcohol. After all that it's still surging on top end. I Can start to feel it at a little more than half throttle and it gets worse the more throttle I give it. It surges every couple seconds and drops maybe 100-150 rpm if I had to guess. The hose is new and the fuel tank is new. Fuel filter is clean and spark plugs are new. What am I missing? Other than surging she runs great. + +Thanks in advance.","My problem unfortunately isn't the screws. I've had these 2 carbs apart probably 5 times thinking there was crap plugging passages. I've had both of them completely apart and dipped in carb gunk and another time completely apart and cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaning tank. + +Thanks for the thought though, keep them coming. + +Mike","My problem unfortunately isn't the screws. I've had these 2 carbs apart probably 5 times thinking there was crap plugging passages. I've had both of them completely apart and dipped in carb gunk and another time completely apart and cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaning tank. + +Thanks for the thought though, keep them coming. + +Mike","So, is this a slow ""stall"" (koff-koff, bing-da-da-bing), or an ""instant off stall""?" +"Motor is a 2011 F250TUR + +I am working on this trim system. The unit will trim up and down as it is supposed to, and will not leak down when trimmed up and left up on the trailer. + +This trim system was having issues before the motor was transferred owners. The shop that sold this motor rebuilt the trim system with new o-rings (supposedly). + +While under load the motor will not trim out. If you trim the motor out and go under throttle the trim seems to hold. This lead me to believe that it was not the seals that were blown, but maybe a check valve somewhere in the unit?? + +I took the unit to my local Yamaha dealer (small town) and they said they didnt have any spanners to fit the trim caps. Soooooo I picked up a seal kit and a spanner wrench. + +Got everything apart perfectly. The O-rings do in fact look good (they are still round and not flattened out.) I hadn't run the trim in a few days but when I pulled the drain plug the oil was bubbly and pressurized. + +I drained it out and the oil is relatively dirty. Unit will get a good cleaning. I am going to put all new o-rings and seals in for good measure, but I feel like I am missing something. I checked all of the check balls and springs (in the pistons) and all seems well. I just don't want to put it all back together and have the same issue. + +What else could be going on that would cause this? I have rebuilt quite a few trim units and have never run across this issue before.","There are several valves.. the up-main valve, the down-main valve, the up-relief valve, the down-relief valve and a check valve in the cylinder. I don't know enough to know which one (if any) is the problem, but that's how it's generally set up on Yamahas.","There are several valves.. the up-main valve, the down-main valve, the up-relief valve, the down-relief valve and a check valve in the cylinder. I don't know enough to know which one (if any) is the problem, but that's how it's generally set up on Yamahas.","Ok. New season and playing with my project again. I rebuilt the carbs, boiled out in ultrasonic, and no difference. I checked compression and all 3 cylinders between 105 and 115, and that is with a weak battery. Cranked and put in gear tied up to dock and pulled one plug off at a time. Could not tell much difference. Ohmed coils and all 3 showed about same resistance but was not range that cdi electronics book showed. I have pickedup some extra coils to experiment with. Boat still runs exactly like it did last year. Cranks fine. Idles fine. Accelerated rough until I get to about 3/4 throttle then smooths out. Thinking perhaps to look at timing again and perhaps oil blend as I am using the Yamaha precision blend system. Not smoking much and plugs not fouling so I am hesitant to mess with it. When I pulled plugs from last year bottom plug was a little blacked than other two. Put new set in and ran about an hour this year and plugs all look same so far. My gut still says carbs but I went thru them with a fine tooth comb three times and all jets crystal clean. Any ideas appreciated!" +"Motor is a 2011 F250TUR + +I am working on this trim system. The unit will trim up and down as it is supposed to, and will not leak down when trimmed up and left up on the trailer. + +This trim system was having issues before the motor was transferred owners. The shop that sold this motor rebuilt the trim system with new o-rings (supposedly). + +While under load the motor will not trim out. If you trim the motor out and go under throttle the trim seems to hold. This lead me to believe that it was not the seals that were blown, but maybe a check valve somewhere in the unit?? + +I took the unit to my local Yamaha dealer (small town) and they said they didnt have any spanners to fit the trim caps. Soooooo I picked up a seal kit and a spanner wrench. + +Got everything apart perfectly. The O-rings do in fact look good (they are still round and not flattened out.) I hadn't run the trim in a few days but when I pulled the drain plug the oil was bubbly and pressurized. + +I drained it out and the oil is relatively dirty. Unit will get a good cleaning. I am going to put all new o-rings and seals in for good measure, but I feel like I am missing something. I checked all of the check balls and springs (in the pistons) and all seems well. I just don't want to put it all back together and have the same issue. + +What else could be going on that would cause this? I have rebuilt quite a few trim units and have never run across this issue before.","Yikes!! + +Ok, do you know where said valves are located? I was studying the diagram and couldnt locate them.......","Yikes!! + +Ok, do you know where said valves are located? I was studying the diagram and couldnt locate them.......","Can't help much on the painting, but go on line to Jamestown Distributors. + +http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?resultPref=all&page=GRID&ptype=document + +and go to their ""How To"" section. Lots of real good info and advice there. + +Somewhere on your boat there will be a manufacturer's plate, usually on the gunnel at the rear. That will tell you the maximum horsepower for that boat. One of the pieces of advice I've gotten many times over the years is to always power a boat at or near its maximum allowable horsepower. If that plate is missing, do an internet search to try to find out the maximum." +"Motor is a 2011 F250TUR + +I am working on this trim system. The unit will trim up and down as it is supposed to, and will not leak down when trimmed up and left up on the trailer. + +This trim system was having issues before the motor was transferred owners. The shop that sold this motor rebuilt the trim system with new o-rings (supposedly). + +While under load the motor will not trim out. If you trim the motor out and go under throttle the trim seems to hold. This lead me to believe that it was not the seals that were blown, but maybe a check valve somewhere in the unit?? + +I took the unit to my local Yamaha dealer (small town) and they said they didnt have any spanners to fit the trim caps. Soooooo I picked up a seal kit and a spanner wrench. + +Got everything apart perfectly. The O-rings do in fact look good (they are still round and not flattened out.) I hadn't run the trim in a few days but when I pulled the drain plug the oil was bubbly and pressurized. + +I drained it out and the oil is relatively dirty. Unit will get a good cleaning. I am going to put all new o-rings and seals in for good measure, but I feel like I am missing something. I checked all of the check balls and springs (in the pistons) and all seems well. I just don't want to put it all back together and have the same issue. + +What else could be going on that would cause this? I have rebuilt quite a few trim units and have never run across this issue before.","I don't know, sorry. I've only seen diagrams like this: + + +https://imgur.com/a/WyujgM8 + + +But I think if you saw air bubbles, then it probably just wasn't bled properly. That procedure is in the service manual. You can probably get it from manualslib dot com.. pretty sure I've seen the F200/250 manual there.","I don't know, sorry. I've only seen diagrams like this: + + +https://imgur.com/a/WyujgM8 + + +But I think if you saw air bubbles, then it probably just wasn't bled properly. That procedure is in the service manual. You can probably get it from manualslib dot com.. pretty sure I've seen the F200/250 manual there.","Found at the back of your service manual. If you don't have one, google your engines model/year and you might get lucky with a free copy of the diagram." +"Motor is a 2011 F250TUR + +I am working on this trim system. The unit will trim up and down as it is supposed to, and will not leak down when trimmed up and left up on the trailer. + +This trim system was having issues before the motor was transferred owners. The shop that sold this motor rebuilt the trim system with new o-rings (supposedly). + +While under load the motor will not trim out. If you trim the motor out and go under throttle the trim seems to hold. This lead me to believe that it was not the seals that were blown, but maybe a check valve somewhere in the unit?? + +I took the unit to my local Yamaha dealer (small town) and they said they didnt have any spanners to fit the trim caps. Soooooo I picked up a seal kit and a spanner wrench. + +Got everything apart perfectly. The O-rings do in fact look good (they are still round and not flattened out.) I hadn't run the trim in a few days but when I pulled the drain plug the oil was bubbly and pressurized. + +I drained it out and the oil is relatively dirty. Unit will get a good cleaning. I am going to put all new o-rings and seals in for good measure, but I feel like I am missing something. I checked all of the check balls and springs (in the pistons) and all seems well. I just don't want to put it all back together and have the same issue. + +What else could be going on that would cause this? I have rebuilt quite a few trim units and have never run across this issue before.",Looks like all of that is in the gear pump. Ughhhhhh. I have heard not to take those apart as more issues than you have will arise.........,Looks like all of that is in the gear pump. Ughhhhhh. I have heard not to take those apart as more issues than you have will arise.........,"Right. A fire hazard I do not want. + +Think I'll just scrap the idea!!" +"Good afternoon. I am the original owner of a F50TLRA 4 stroke outboard. The engine has never been into the shop for any carb issues so it's as is from the factory. I am in the process of cleaning out the carbs and all the main jets are different. #1=124, #2=126, 3#=116, #4=114. The factory parts diagram lists those 4 main jets, but does not list which carb gets which jet. Is this correct? I'm jut used to all the jets being the same. Thanks! Wes",,,"Thanks C-man for the advice. The engine is a GM 305 (I think). When I bought the boat, I was told it was a GM 350. How can I make sure. I know it is a V-8 and so far it has been pretty simple to work on. I had already planned to trace each wire back to see where it is hooked up to the motor. But I will begin with the oil pan test first to see if there is a problem there. I am assuming it is OK because I just had some work done on it by a mechanic and they changed oil in it for me. I have noticed it leaking at the tilt mechanism housing on the sterndrive which I opened that up to find that there was no gasket. But I will repost about that later. + +Thanks for your advice and if you have a wiring diagram that will help let me know. I do have a Selocrepair manual for OMC Stern Drives 1964-1986 with some wiring diagrams in there. But any other information/advice you have is welcome as I am a newbie at this but am willing to learn although I grew up working on point ignition cars with my dad so much of it is not new. I will post pictures as I go. Thanks again." +"Good afternoon. I am the original owner of a F50TLRA 4 stroke outboard. The engine has never been into the shop for any carb issues so it's as is from the factory. I am in the process of cleaning out the carbs and all the main jets are different. #1=124, #2=126, 3#=116, #4=114. The factory parts diagram lists those 4 main jets, but does not list which carb gets which jet. Is this correct? I'm jut used to all the jets being the same. Thanks! Wes",Thanks! I appreciate the help!,Thanks! I appreciate the help!,"DangarStu said: + + + + There isn't any real problem in having mismatched cables other than the original problem that the thinner cable will have to carry a high current therefore getting hot and causing voltage drop. Another option might be to double up the thinner cable if you have a plentiful supply. This will give the same effect as a thicker cable. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for responding. It was a local ""expert"" who advised against mixing sizes. But I expect that's because he wanted to sell me all that red cable. Another ""expert"" had told me the existing cable was 2/0, so I just went and took a closer look and I see that the existing cable is actually 1/0! I should have known! That's why when I need a competent mechanic, I have to fly one in from the continent." +"Just received a DT15C that has not been started in 15 years. Motor was grandfathers and it has been sitting in a shop for the whole time. He’s letting me put it on a boat and was wondering if there is anything in order to do to start it up and get it ready to boat again. I already plan to pour a small amount of oil into cylinder and pull to lubricate everything. Also probably clean the carb even though the fuel was drained when it went into storage. Also was thinking about replacing the impeller because of the potential dry rotting over time. Motor has little over 13 hours on it, was used as a kicker motor for a larger boat. It’s a 2 cylinder 2 stroke oil injected outboard.",Meant to post in Suzuki section,Meant to post in Suzuki section,"You'll need to open up the pump like the guy on this video does in the first few minutes: +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-zxHmcYiOE + +Then when you take out the diaphragm, I will bet you're going to find some little foreign objects like the guy does in this video: +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-GbfRkFT3Y + +You just need to carefully get that stuff out of there. There's really nothing to it. + +If you don't have a filter/strainer just ahead of the pump inlet, now is the time to install one. Shurflo makes some strainers that screw directly onto the pump's inlet threads, then you install the hose adapter to the strainer's inlet." +"Just received a DT15C that has not been started in 15 years. Motor was grandfathers and it has been sitting in a shop for the whole time. He’s letting me put it on a boat and was wondering if there is anything in order to do to start it up and get it ready to boat again. I already plan to pour a small amount of oil into cylinder and pull to lubricate everything. Also probably clean the carb even though the fuel was drained when it went into storage. Also was thinking about replacing the impeller because of the potential dry rotting over time. Motor has little over 13 hours on it, was used as a kicker motor for a larger boat. It’s a 2 cylinder 2 stroke oil injected outboard.",dont go by what I say BUT I just picked up a 2005 Yamaha with 5 hrs on it and was not run for the past 10 years. I changed the oil and put gas in it and it started on the first pull choked and is running perfect. change the oil in the bottom end and runs like a new motor as it is. no water coming out of the weep hole tore it apart and found the wasps had blocked the hole on the outside.,dont go by what I say BUT I just picked up a 2005 Yamaha with 5 hrs on it and was not run for the past 10 years. I changed the oil and put gas in it and it started on the first pull choked and is running perfect. change the oil in the bottom end and runs like a new motor as it is. no water coming out of the weep hole tore it apart and found the wasps had blocked the hole on the outside.,"""Robert...would be interested + +""Robert...would be interested in any sources you have for the 2010 Yamaha, particularly the F40. I checked all the usual places but no real info there. + +On the fuel problem, everyone indicates that the main problem is with moisture being drawn into the system and fuel that is old enough to degrade or phase separate. The moisture problem will continue until someone figures out how to put a collapsing bladder in the fuel tank so there won't have to be a vent. Only problem I can see with that is not having a fuel gauge. Second problem is easier....buy the gas, use stabalizer, and use it up.""" +"Just received a DT15C that has not been started in 15 years. Motor was grandfathers and it has been sitting in a shop for the whole time. He’s letting me put it on a boat and was wondering if there is anything in order to do to start it up and get it ready to boat again. I already plan to pour a small amount of oil into cylinder and pull to lubricate everything. Also probably clean the carb even though the fuel was drained when it went into storage. Also was thinking about replacing the impeller because of the potential dry rotting over time. Motor has little over 13 hours on it, was used as a kicker motor for a larger boat. It’s a 2 cylinder 2 stroke oil injected outboard.","Hi. I would pull the spark plug, put some oil in there, and then slowly turn the flywheel, and add more oil after each 1/4 turn. And listen for any grinding. If you hear some, keep turning it by hand and adding a little oil until you don't hear any grinding. Then replace the impeller. If there's an oil strainer/filter, check that and replace if needed. Then try to start it. I wouldn't just rip the cord without doing all that first. + +Hope it works out.","Hi. I would pull the spark plug, put some oil in there, and then slowly turn the flywheel, and add more oil after each 1/4 turn. And listen for any grinding. If you hear some, keep turning it by hand and adding a little oil until you don't hear any grinding. Then replace the impeller. If there's an oil strainer/filter, check that and replace if needed. Then try to start it. I wouldn't just rip the cord without doing all that first. + +Hope it works out.",Check the arrow on the bulb make sure it points toward the motor. +"2001 80hp +I replaced head gasket but still getting water in oil. +I ran the the engine after head gasket replacement for about 2 hours. Checked dip stick and oil looked good, no milkyness. Pulled oil drain plug and about 2-3 tablespoons of clear water came out before any oil. So i figure I'll replace all the gaskets and seals that may be allowing water in. +Question is which seals and gaskets should i replace? +In my manual it shows the gasket that separates the powerhead from mid section and a gasket between the mid section and oil pan. Any other gaskets and seals?",2s 4s? Model?,2s 4s? Model?,"If the brakes are not engaging with the slow reverse you are fine, you are not hurting anything. If the brakes start to engage that will cause the surge cylinder to activate more so you will need to stop and revers direction a bit to releave the lock up. I added a high pressure block valve from McMaster Carr to the line right behind my surge brakes, that allows me to do whatever I want without the brakes engaging, I just open the valve when I am heading out on the road" +"2001 80hp +I replaced head gasket but still getting water in oil. +I ran the the engine after head gasket replacement for about 2 hours. Checked dip stick and oil looked good, no milkyness. Pulled oil drain plug and about 2-3 tablespoons of clear water came out before any oil. So i figure I'll replace all the gaskets and seals that may be allowing water in. +Question is which seals and gaskets should i replace? +In my manual it shows the gasket that separates the powerhead from mid section and a gasket between the mid section and oil pan. Any other gaskets and seals?","The head gasket is the one to look at. Maybe it's just a smaller leak now after you replaced it. I would do a compression test on all cylinders just to confirm they're all about the same. + +Water can leak out of the exhaust manifold gasket, the thermostat housing and through the internal anode if it's corroded enough.. but I don't see how it could end up in the crankcase if those were the source of the leak.","The head gasket is the one to look at. Maybe it's just a smaller leak now after you replaced it. I would do a compression test on all cylinders just to confirm they're all about the same. + +Water can leak out of the exhaust manifold gasket, the thermostat housing and through the internal anode if it's corroded enough.. but I don't see how it could end up in the crankcase if those were the source of the leak.",When we took it apart there were pieces of the impeller all throughout the head of the engine +"2001 80hp +I replaced head gasket but still getting water in oil. +I ran the the engine after head gasket replacement for about 2 hours. Checked dip stick and oil looked good, no milkyness. Pulled oil drain plug and about 2-3 tablespoons of clear water came out before any oil. So i figure I'll replace all the gaskets and seals that may be allowing water in. +Question is which seals and gaskets should i replace? +In my manual it shows the gasket that separates the powerhead from mid section and a gasket between the mid section and oil pan. Any other gaskets and seals?",It's a f80 4stroke,It's a f80 4stroke,"Depends on the part. Obviously parts for an '80 are obsolete, but some parts could be replaced by a superseded part. Also, some of your engine parts have a part number on it. If what you're needing to replace does, google search the part number for replacement." +"2001 80hp +I replaced head gasket but still getting water in oil. +I ran the the engine after head gasket replacement for about 2 hours. Checked dip stick and oil looked good, no milkyness. Pulled oil drain plug and about 2-3 tablespoons of clear water came out before any oil. So i figure I'll replace all the gaskets and seals that may be allowing water in. +Question is which seals and gaskets should i replace? +In my manual it shows the gasket that separates the powerhead from mid section and a gasket between the mid section and oil pan. Any other gaskets and seals?","Because the water doesn't appear to be mixing with the oil, creating milky oil, I'm suspecting the water is entering low in the motor. Somewhere near the oil pump. +Also the other problem and main reason to replace head gasket is the compression test showed 135, 100, 145,145. The the 100psi cylinder had a little water cause a small amount of corrosion at the top of the cylinder wall.","Because the water doesn't appear to be mixing with the oil, creating milky oil, I'm suspecting the water is entering low in the motor. Somewhere near the oil pump. +Also the other problem and main reason to replace head gasket is the compression test showed 135, 100, 145,145. The the 100psi cylinder had a little water cause a small amount of corrosion at the top of the cylinder wall.",The motor is a 1962 Johnson 40 HP electric start +"Hey folks, + +Recently picked up this boat second hand and have been running into issues with motor. The motor runs fine and idles great however when I have the boat in the water and apply throttle With engine revving up and beyond 2200RPM (under load) it basically bogs down totally and dies unless I retard the throttle. So far I have checked the fuel system and there are no obstructions and it’s pressure tight. The fuel primer bulb flows correctly etc. + +Im a newbie and fiddles with the ignition timing stopper (turned it counter clockwise to loosen it up thinking I controlled the idle speed, realized afterwards where that screw was). So yeah now it bogs down under load. My question is. By setting the ignition timing stopper back to its original position will that allow me to have correct timing advancement and therefore power under load or is it perhaps the doom of clogged carbs starving the motor of fuel?","The idle speed stopper and the upper screw ( maximum ignition advance ) have nothing to do with the bogging.-----Post results of a compression test.-------Clean the carburetors------If motor sat for any length of time with fuel in carburetors , the jets may be clogged.-----Check oil injection system too.","The idle speed stopper and the upper screw ( maximum ignition advance ) have nothing to do with the bogging.-----Post results of a compression test.-------Clean the carburetors------If motor sat for any length of time with fuel in carburetors , the jets may be clogged.-----Check oil injection system too.","Think i found my problem. Was a blocked vst pump filter. I removed pump from vst ran in container with power tune, and noticed after a minuite or 2 the volume reduced to almost a trickle. I then removed filter from pump and ran for abot 10 mins no change in flow. Put filter back on within 2 mins it reduced again. So with a bit of bogan redneckery i pressure washed filter then washed in petrol. Retested for 20 mins all good. Ran today no worries. My engine is ex commercial and has 2340hrs. On it im also an ob mech working for myself. I'll be ordering a new filter in the morning." +"Hey folks, + +Recently picked up this boat second hand and have been running into issues with motor. The motor runs fine and idles great however when I have the boat in the water and apply throttle With engine revving up and beyond 2200RPM (under load) it basically bogs down totally and dies unless I retard the throttle. So far I have checked the fuel system and there are no obstructions and it’s pressure tight. The fuel primer bulb flows correctly etc. + +Im a newbie and fiddles with the ignition timing stopper (turned it counter clockwise to loosen it up thinking I controlled the idle speed, realized afterwards where that screw was). So yeah now it bogs down under load. My question is. By setting the ignition timing stopper back to its original position will that allow me to have correct timing advancement and therefore power under load or is it perhaps the doom of clogged carbs starving the motor of fuel?","Go to yamahapubs.com and buy the service manual for it. It will tell you how to properly adjust the throttle linkage and timing. But if it was bogging down before you touched any screws, I would say your issue is not related to timing. More than likely, it's related to carbs, the fuel pump or the oil pump. + +It looks pretty clean for an '87 though.","Go to yamahapubs.com and buy the service manual for it. It will tell you how to properly adjust the throttle linkage and timing. But if it was bogging down before you touched any screws, I would say your issue is not related to timing. More than likely, it's related to carbs, the fuel pump or the oil pump. + +It looks pretty clean for an '87 though.","Hard to say if its fresh or old..... + +Anodes are one of the easier ways to slow down the process....but they typically protect the metal item they are attached to..... + +my guess is there were one or more pieces of metal sitting inside the boat and then some (slightly conductive) water was introduced and that enabled some galvanic action..." +"Hey folks, + +Recently picked up this boat second hand and have been running into issues with motor. The motor runs fine and idles great however when I have the boat in the water and apply throttle With engine revving up and beyond 2200RPM (under load) it basically bogs down totally and dies unless I retard the throttle. So far I have checked the fuel system and there are no obstructions and it’s pressure tight. The fuel primer bulb flows correctly etc. + +Im a newbie and fiddles with the ignition timing stopper (turned it counter clockwise to loosen it up thinking I controlled the idle speed, realized afterwards where that screw was). So yeah now it bogs down under load. My question is. By setting the ignition timing stopper back to its original position will that allow me to have correct timing advancement and therefore power under load or is it perhaps the doom of clogged carbs starving the motor of fuel?",The motor is rather clean indeed. Does not negate the fact it bogs down and cannot get it out on the water. The motor sat for “how long” I don’t really know as previous owner didn’t seem to use it much. Perhaps a carb cleaning will do justice in that regard. I will order the kit today for gasket replacements etc. If it is not the timing then it most likely is blocked jets etc. I have a marine mechanic friend who seems to think it’s clogged carbs though he ain’t seen the motor yet,The motor is rather clean indeed. Does not negate the fact it bogs down and cannot get it out on the water. The motor sat for “how long” I don’t really know as previous owner didn’t seem to use it much. Perhaps a carb cleaning will do justice in that regard. I will order the kit today for gasket replacements etc. If it is not the timing then it most likely is blocked jets etc. I have a marine mechanic friend who seems to think it’s clogged carbs though he ain’t seen the motor yet,"I just found an other post , and buddy discribed my fault to a T ,,, light comes on , he turns of the motor and starts it back up again and it runs fine for 5 to 10 mins . Oil pressur switch , witch is why I never noticed my light until now ! I think Ill start there !" +"Hey folks, + +Recently picked up this boat second hand and have been running into issues with motor. The motor runs fine and idles great however when I have the boat in the water and apply throttle With engine revving up and beyond 2200RPM (under load) it basically bogs down totally and dies unless I retard the throttle. So far I have checked the fuel system and there are no obstructions and it’s pressure tight. The fuel primer bulb flows correctly etc. + +Im a newbie and fiddles with the ignition timing stopper (turned it counter clockwise to loosen it up thinking I controlled the idle speed, realized afterwards where that screw was). So yeah now it bogs down under load. My question is. By setting the ignition timing stopper back to its original position will that allow me to have correct timing advancement and therefore power under load or is it perhaps the doom of clogged carbs starving the motor of fuel?","Fiddling w/timing is moot if you haven't 1st addressed fuel system issue. Need to pull carbs then pull all jets. If you don't have a model year specific service manual, nows the time. Soak amd clean jets...you shud be able to see thru jet when holding up to light. Replace the kit and confirm float height to spec. Reinstall. Then you time and sync carbs.","Fiddling w/timing is moot if you haven't 1st addressed fuel system issue. Need to pull carbs then pull all jets. If you don't have a model year specific service manual, nows the time. Soak amd clean jets...you shud be able to see thru jet when holding up to light. Replace the kit and confirm float height to spec. Reinstall. Then you time and sync carbs.",starts with jumper from positive battery to positive on coil. Will only shut down when jumper is removed! This is(according to your pictures) a corbra drive. +"Hey folks, + +Recently picked up this boat second hand and have been running into issues with motor. The motor runs fine and idles great however when I have the boat in the water and apply throttle With engine revving up and beyond 2200RPM (under load) it basically bogs down totally and dies unless I retard the throttle. So far I have checked the fuel system and there are no obstructions and it’s pressure tight. The fuel primer bulb flows correctly etc. + +Im a newbie and fiddles with the ignition timing stopper (turned it counter clockwise to loosen it up thinking I controlled the idle speed, realized afterwards where that screw was). So yeah now it bogs down under load. My question is. By setting the ignition timing stopper back to its original position will that allow me to have correct timing advancement and therefore power under load or is it perhaps the doom of clogged carbs starving the motor of fuel?","Hey Folks, + +So cleaned the carbs. We’re not bad at all. Jets seems all clear! + +anyhow I replaced the fuel primer bulb and flushed out the fuel lines. The boat is running great now however the idle was very rich! 4 pilot screws were 3 1/4 - 7/8 turned out. You could literally smell the fuel!!! + +My question how is how much to turn out the idle pilot screws? 1987 Yamaha 115ETLH. I found a manual but it is for E115A (1-1 1/2 turns) or 115B (3/8-7/8). Not quite sure which motor I have to be honest. + +I have turned the screws out from seated to 1 1/2 turns. Idles fine. Any advice?","Hey Folks, + +So cleaned the carbs. We’re not bad at all. Jets seems all clear! + +anyhow I replaced the fuel primer bulb and flushed out the fuel lines. The boat is running great now however the idle was very rich! 4 pilot screws were 3 1/4 - 7/8 turned out. You could literally smell the fuel!!! + +My question how is how much to turn out the idle pilot screws? 1987 Yamaha 115ETLH. I found a manual but it is for E115A (1-1 1/2 turns) or 115B (3/8-7/8). Not quite sure which motor I have to be honest. + +I have turned the screws out from seated to 1 1/2 turns. Idles fine. Any advice?",What made you fiddle with the fuel enrichment valve when the alarm was sounding? +"Hey folks, + +Recently picked up this boat second hand and have been running into issues with motor. The motor runs fine and idles great however when I have the boat in the water and apply throttle With engine revving up and beyond 2200RPM (under load) it basically bogs down totally and dies unless I retard the throttle. So far I have checked the fuel system and there are no obstructions and it’s pressure tight. The fuel primer bulb flows correctly etc. + +Im a newbie and fiddles with the ignition timing stopper (turned it counter clockwise to loosen it up thinking I controlled the idle speed, realized afterwards where that screw was). So yeah now it bogs down under load. My question is. By setting the ignition timing stopper back to its original position will that allow me to have correct timing advancement and therefore power under load or is it perhaps the doom of clogged carbs starving the motor of fuel?","Nice. + +Most manuals I've read say 2-2.5 turns. But really, that's just a decent starting point. You can fine-tune it by turning them all the way in, then turning them out just enough where the engine will idle roughly.. keep turning out until it gets smooth, note how many turns that took you, then keep turning until it gets rough again, note how many turns that took.. then you just turn it back in halfway between those 2 points.","Nice. + +Most manuals I've read say 2-2.5 turns. But really, that's just a decent starting point. You can fine-tune it by turning them all the way in, then turning them out just enough where the engine will idle roughly.. keep turning out until it gets smooth, note how many turns that took you, then keep turning until it gets rough again, note how many turns that took.. then you just turn it back in halfway between those 2 points.","As I see it the pump does not come as a separate and complete assembly. Maybe that is what you are looking for. It is integral to the fuel bowl which is available for purchase. Item 3 in the illustration above. However, all of the piece parts that comprise the fuel pump can be purchased. Why buy a bunch of stuff you don't need if for instance just a diaphragm has gone bad. + +Coughing and back firing is indicative of a lean air/fuel mixture. The fact that the motor runs well when at high power tells me the fuel pump is doing the job that it needs to do. + +Running at high idle RPM could also be related to the air/fuel mix and/or just a simple idle RPM adjustment. + +Now if there is a fuel leak then get that fixed. It could be related to the problem you are having. Fuel leaks are not normal and can be problematic at the least and dangerous at the worst. + +Are you the original owner? Has anyone ever messed with the idle air jet and/or the idle RPM adjustment screw? Is the choke adjusted properly?" +"Yamaha 8 hp 4 stroke long shaft 2001 F8MLHZ model +problem prop is seized +The motor is not seized it turns freely. +It shifts into forward reverse and neutral freely +But prop will not turn and is siezed. +I just bought it. +Any thoughts on what may cause this or best way to fix?",Assuming you can get the prop off. Take out the carrier behind the prop and inspect inside.,Assuming you can get the prop off. Take out the carrier behind the prop and inspect inside.,Neutral safety switch in the control box? Start relay? +"Yamaha 8 hp 4 stroke long shaft 2001 F8MLHZ model +problem prop is seized +The motor is not seized it turns freely. +It shifts into forward reverse and neutral freely +But prop will not turn and is siezed. +I just bought it. +Any thoughts on what may cause this or best way to fix?","I was able to get prop off. It appears it was stuck to far in but once off the splined shaft it sits on spins freely in neutral. Spins in reverse but forward appears stuck or froze will not turn. +Shifter shifts freely in between forard neutral and reverse. + +I have not pulled carrier yet to inspect ill do that today. +For some reason it appears that the safety for starting is not releasing as you cant pull pullstart now.any thoughts on what else may be wrong.","I was able to get prop off. It appears it was stuck to far in but once off the splined shaft it sits on spins freely in neutral. Spins in reverse but forward appears stuck or froze will not turn. +Shifter shifts freely in between forard neutral and reverse. + +I have not pulled carrier yet to inspect ill do that today. +For some reason it appears that the safety for starting is not releasing as you cant pull pullstart now.any thoughts on what else may be wrong.",I have been also looking reading around and see that some people have had issues with the fuel lines comming from the tank and low pressure fuel pump. How long on average should you go without replacing all of the fuel lines. We have had this boat since 2005 and have never replaced the fuel lines. Should this be something that should be looked into relating to this issue? +"Yamaha 8 hp 4 stroke long shaft 2001 F8MLHZ model +problem prop is seized +The motor is not seized it turns freely. +It shifts into forward reverse and neutral freely +But prop will not turn and is siezed. +I just bought it. +Any thoughts on what may cause this or best way to fix?",It does sound like this may be expensive.----Drained the gear oil ?------Or maybe it was not stored properly ?----Looked for oil at the sparkplugs?---Possibly cylinder full of oil ?,It does sound like this may be expensive.----Drained the gear oil ?------Or maybe it was not stored properly ?----Looked for oil at the sparkplugs?---Possibly cylinder full of oil ?,"Take it back to the mechanic, If he did a 100 hour service and rebuilt the lower unit he needs to do it again." +"Yamaha 8 hp 4 stroke long shaft 2001 F8MLHZ model +problem prop is seized +The motor is not seized it turns freely. +It shifts into forward reverse and neutral freely +But prop will not turn and is siezed. +I just bought it. +Any thoughts on what may cause this or best way to fix?","In forward or reverse the safety for the pull start will engage. Pull off the pull start top. And spin the flywheel by hand. Or even better pull the lower unit off and operate shift rod by hand try to eliminate the issue of knowing if it's the lower unit or the engine. +Try what racerone says. Pull the spark plugs and check for oil in cylinders","In forward or reverse the safety for the pull start will engage. Pull off the pull start top. And spin the flywheel by hand. Or even better pull the lower unit off and operate shift rod by hand try to eliminate the issue of knowing if it's the lower unit or the engine. +Try what racerone says. Pull the spark plugs and check for oil in cylinders","Thanks Racerone. I did pull the plug later that day, did not see and slivers or shavings on the magnet. I decided to go ahead and change the oil. I swept the drain pan with a stronger magnet and again did not see any shavings. Still stumped lol." +"I have a 2002 Yamaha 200hp hpdi and there is no click when I turn on the key. I can’t locate the electric fuel pump relay. Can some send a pic or directions? Thanks. Also, when I turn on the key, there is 12 volts to both leads on the low pressure pump in the vst. Is that correct?",What model HPDI?,What model HPDI?,"Hi Hordos, thanks for the info. I am just waiting for the mounting bracket then will install. Still need to take the boat out and see what angle the boat planes at so that I can get the dome installed horizontal. + +Cheers" +"I have a 2002 Yamaha 200hp hpdi and there is no click when I turn on the key. I can’t locate the electric fuel pump relay. Can some send a pic or directions? Thanks. Also, when I turn on the key, there is 12 volts to both leads on the low pressure pump in the vst. Is that correct?","boscoe said: + + + + What model HPDI? + +Click to expand... + + +200HP Yamaha Z200TXRA","boscoe said: + + + + What model HPDI? + +Click to expand... + + +200HP Yamaha Z200TXRA","First I recommend posting your questions on the Mercruiser Forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" and scroll down to the Mercruiser site. + +Also, I will try to attach a generic wiring diagram that might help you out. If this does not work, send an e-mail to me at [email protected]." +"Guys, + +Back with a weird problem. + +Had the boat out a few times this year. Tonight, halfway thru the cruise, the trim down from the binnacle stopped working. Sometimes it clicks once for half a second, but mostly no response. + +Up on the binnacle responds fine. Up AND down work on the side of the motor. + +Any ideas? I'm at a loss so far. + +Thanks, +Terry","It's the switch or the relay. Find the power trim & tilt relay. If you're not sure which one it is, just start removing the relays one at a time, and try to trim up or down from any switch. Once you find the right one, remove it and jump the 2 connection points that are receiving 12V from the battery. If the trim down still doesn't work (and the switch on the engine works fine) then you know it's probably the switch (or a connection/wire between the switch and the relay). If it does work, then the relay is your problem.","It's the switch or the relay. Find the power trim & tilt relay. If you're not sure which one it is, just start removing the relays one at a time, and try to trim up or down from any switch. Once you find the right one, remove it and jump the 2 connection points that are receiving 12V from the battery. If the trim down still doesn't work (and the switch on the engine works fine) then you know it's probably the switch (or a connection/wire between the switch and the relay). If it does work, then the relay is your problem.","Capti'n Squid...thank you for the advice..i had no clue on the battery to buy or even how to go about looking for them. The way you explained it, i understand, i can tell you have a merc 3.7 i/o 470....it has a conversion kit for the chargeing system...its off a chevy marine motor, i dont know the chargeing amperage, but i wil find out and buy accordingly....I plan on changeing all 4 batteries....so i will get them tomorrow......thanks again" +"Guys, + +Back with a weird problem. + +Had the boat out a few times this year. Tonight, halfway thru the cruise, the trim down from the binnacle stopped working. Sometimes it clicks once for half a second, but mostly no response. + +Up on the binnacle responds fine. Up AND down work on the side of the motor. + +Any ideas? I'm at a loss so far. + +Thanks, +Terry",Correction. You want to jump the connection point that is receiving 12V with the other 2 (one at a time) that aren't receiving 12V. That simulates pressing the up or down switch. Sorry about that.,Correction. You want to jump the connection point that is receiving 12V with the other 2 (one at a time) that aren't receiving 12V. That simulates pressing the up or down switch. Sorry about that.,"All of the above works were carried out by my local Yamaha service shop, they sent the injectors off to be cleaned and flowed by an injector spe******t. + +The only other thing I can think of that hasn't been replaced is the lift pump???" +"Guys, + +Back with a weird problem. + +Had the boat out a few times this year. Tonight, halfway thru the cruise, the trim down from the binnacle stopped working. Sometimes it clicks once for half a second, but mostly no response. + +Up on the binnacle responds fine. Up AND down work on the side of the motor. + +Any ideas? I'm at a loss so far. + +Thanks, +Terry","Got it, thanks. Pulled the windshield and dash tonight and confirm that the switch has poor continuity on the down side. Jumped 12V to the pins on the boat/harness side and motor ran up and down without issue. Old siwtch is out, and new switch is on order. + +Thanks, +Terry","Got it, thanks. Pulled the windshield and dash tonight and confirm that the switch has poor continuity on the down side. Jumped 12V to the pins on the boat/harness side and motor ran up and down without issue. Old siwtch is out, and new switch is on order. + +Thanks, +Terry",The motor is rather clean indeed. Does not negate the fact it bogs down and cannot get it out on the water. The motor sat for “how long” I don’t really know as previous owner didn’t seem to use it much. Perhaps a carb cleaning will do justice in that regard. I will order the kit today for gasket replacements etc. If it is not the timing then it most likely is blocked jets etc. I have a marine mechanic friend who seems to think it’s clogged carbs though he ain’t seen the motor yet +"Guys, + +Back with a weird problem. + +Had the boat out a few times this year. Tonight, halfway thru the cruise, the trim down from the binnacle stopped working. Sometimes it clicks once for half a second, but mostly no response. + +Up on the binnacle responds fine. Up AND down work on the side of the motor. + +Any ideas? I'm at a loss so far. + +Thanks, +Terry",Or just check the throttle switch contact points. Carbon build up on the points will cause intermittent issues w/continuity.,Or just check the throttle switch contact points. Carbon build up on the points will cause intermittent issues w/continuity.,Thanks - have done that +"My new outboard has been out 4 times. Sat up from October until now. I hooked up the water hose to crank it at the house. It took a long time for the water to ever come out the tell-tale weep hole. When the water finally came out, it is very weak, and it has air mixed with it. Does any of this sound familiar to you? I would think it would have a stronger stream and no air mixed in it. + +Thanks","Hi. + +It depends on how well the muffs are able to seal up against the water inlet. After you start it, just rev it up a little bit (around 900-1000 rpms). If the stream is stiff/strong at that point, then I would say it's just the muffs not sealing properly. I've gone through many pairs of muffs for this very reason. + +If the stream isn't strong when you fast-idle it, then I would have the impeller looked at.","Hi. + +It depends on how well the muffs are able to seal up against the water inlet. After you start it, just rev it up a little bit (around 900-1000 rpms). If the stream is stiff/strong at that point, then I would say it's just the muffs not sealing properly. I've gone through many pairs of muffs for this very reason. + +If the stream isn't strong when you fast-idle it, then I would have the impeller looked at.","What timing are you going to set ?,ignition timing ? because 2 stroke doesn't have valve timing. + +wajira" +"My new outboard has been out 4 times. Sat up from October until now. I hooked up the water hose to crank it at the house. It took a long time for the water to ever come out the tell-tale weep hole. When the water finally came out, it is very weak, and it has air mixed with it. Does any of this sound familiar to you? I would think it would have a stronger stream and no air mixed in it. + +Thanks",Water off pressure system disolves more air than water in the lake.---All domestic water systems have air dissolved to some extent.------So test it in the lake and see how it behaves.,Water off pressure system disolves more air than water in the lake.---All domestic water systems have air dissolved to some extent.------So test it in the lake and see how it behaves.,"When you are testing , the water in your bucket MUST be 8"" above the impeller !" +"My new outboard has been out 4 times. Sat up from October until now. I hooked up the water hose to crank it at the house. It took a long time for the water to ever come out the tell-tale weep hole. When the water finally came out, it is very weak, and it has air mixed with it. Does any of this sound familiar to you? I would think it would have a stronger stream and no air mixed in it. + +Thanks","Agree with the muffs needing tight seal...you shud have to put a little muscle into sliding ears on. Yam 4 strokes are notorious for weak t/t stream. Assuming your alarm systems are in check, you're engine will let you know when there's a problem. So long as no high temp alarm, no worries.","Agree with the muffs needing tight seal...you shud have to put a little muscle into sliding ears on. Yam 4 strokes are notorious for weak t/t stream. Assuming your alarm systems are in check, you're engine will let you know when there's a problem. So long as no high temp alarm, no worries.","Wow man ,do you have some bad weed ? +I have two Yamaha 150 HPDI and they boat have a VST tank on it. Almost out in the open on the left forward side of the engine. The parts brake down shows a filter at the bottom of a pump. +I'm going to change the filter but just wanted to know is there any other filters in there while I'll have it open . + +Thanks for the info on the mystery filters .They look like they are buried and I'll save them for last and then turn it over to Yamaha Mafia if I need to. +This is cutting in on my fishing time but I got to get it done. +Thanks again for the help +I'll post my results in a week I guess. +Bo + +." +"I changed my water pumps over the winter, twin f200 in-line 4’s. + +when I put the port lower unit back on I have no neutral, the prop shaft spins in neutral and it clicks loud when I put in reverse like it’s goign from fwd to reverse. It stays in gear once in and doesn’t grind, just a loud click like it’s jammkng into gear. + +I disconnected the shift cable and manually shifted from the engine and it still does it. I tried readjusting the spline and resetting, nothing has worked. + +any idea on what is going on?","Hello. + +So I think you've ruled out the shift linkage being an issue. + +If you put the shift lever in neutral and drop the lower unit, what happens when you try to turn the prop shaft both clockwise and counter-clockwise? If you hear clicking when you do that, then it's stuck in gear. To get it back in neutral, I would turn the driveshaft clockwise while turning the shift rod counter-clockwise at the same time. That will hopefully get it back into neutral where you can freely spin the prop shaft in both directions. You might have to put more force on the shift shaft than you're comfortable with. If it were me, I would get a Yamaha shift rod push arm instead of using pliers to turn the shift rod. They're about $20. + +Once you have it in neutral, then try rotating the shift rod back into both forward and reverse, then back to neutral. If the prop shaft still spins freely when in the neutral position, then put it back in reverse. Then move your shift lever on the control box to reverse. Then reinstall the lower unit. If it doesn't go in all the way, just rotate the prop shaft by-hand counter-clockwise while continuing to push up on the lower unit until it goes all the way up. Then see where you're at. + +I'm not actually sure why that trick works, but it has worked on my dad's 2001 F50 for me. Good luck.","Hello. + +So I think you've ruled out the shift linkage being an issue. + +If you put the shift lever in neutral and drop the lower unit, what happens when you try to turn the prop shaft both clockwise and counter-clockwise? If you hear clicking when you do that, then it's stuck in gear. To get it back in neutral, I would turn the driveshaft clockwise while turning the shift rod counter-clockwise at the same time. That will hopefully get it back into neutral where you can freely spin the prop shaft in both directions. You might have to put more force on the shift shaft than you're comfortable with. If it were me, I would get a Yamaha shift rod push arm instead of using pliers to turn the shift rod. They're about $20. + +Once you have it in neutral, then try rotating the shift rod back into both forward and reverse, then back to neutral. If the prop shaft still spins freely when in the neutral position, then put it back in reverse. Then move your shift lever on the control box to reverse. Then reinstall the lower unit. If it doesn't go in all the way, just rotate the prop shaft by-hand counter-clockwise while continuing to push up on the lower unit until it goes all the way up. Then see where you're at. + +I'm not actually sure why that trick works, but it has worked on my dad's 2001 F50 for me. Good luck.",Spec idle mix is a starting point....when engine is warm turn 1 screw out at a time. Listen to the engine. It will indicate the mix it likes best. +"I changed my water pumps over the winter, twin f200 in-line 4’s. + +when I put the port lower unit back on I have no neutral, the prop shaft spins in neutral and it clicks loud when I put in reverse like it’s goign from fwd to reverse. It stays in gear once in and doesn’t grind, just a loud click like it’s jammkng into gear. + +I disconnected the shift cable and manually shifted from the engine and it still does it. I tried readjusting the spline and resetting, nothing has worked. + +any idea on what is going on?","rejesterd said: + + + + Hello. + +So I think you've ruled out the shift linkage being an issue. + +If you put the shift lever in neutral and drop the lower unit, what happens when you try to turn the prop shaft both clockwise and counter-clockwise? If you hear clicking when you do that, then it's stuck in gear. To get it back in neutral, I would turn the driveshaft clockwise while turning the shift rod counter-clockwise at the same time. That will hopefully get it back into neutral where you can freely spin the prop shaft in both directions. You might have to put more force on the shift shaft than you're comfortable with. If it were me, I would get a Yamaha shift rod push arm instead of using pliers to turn the shift rod. They're about $20. + +Once you have it in neutral, then try rotating the shift rod back into both forward and reverse, then back to neutral. If the prop shaft still spins freely when in the neutral position, then put it back in reverse. Then move your shift lever on the control box to reverse. Then reinstall the lower unit. If it doesn't go in all the way, just rotate the prop shaft by-hand counter-clockwise while continuing to push up on the lower unit until it goes all the way up. Then see where you're at. + +I'm not actually sure why that trick works, but it has worked on my dad's 2001 F50 for me. Good luck. + +Click to expand... + + + + +Thanks, that makes some sense and hopefully is the fix, I will update.","rejesterd said: + + + + Hello. + +So I think you've ruled out the shift linkage being an issue. + +If you put the shift lever in neutral and drop the lower unit, what happens when you try to turn the prop shaft both clockwise and counter-clockwise? If you hear clicking when you do that, then it's stuck in gear. To get it back in neutral, I would turn the driveshaft clockwise while turning the shift rod counter-clockwise at the same time. That will hopefully get it back into neutral where you can freely spin the prop shaft in both directions. You might have to put more force on the shift shaft than you're comfortable with. If it were me, I would get a Yamaha shift rod push arm instead of using pliers to turn the shift rod. They're about $20. + +Once you have it in neutral, then try rotating the shift rod back into both forward and reverse, then back to neutral. If the prop shaft still spins freely when in the neutral position, then put it back in reverse. Then move your shift lever on the control box to reverse. Then reinstall the lower unit. If it doesn't go in all the way, just rotate the prop shaft by-hand counter-clockwise while continuing to push up on the lower unit until it goes all the way up. Then see where you're at. + +I'm not actually sure why that trick works, but it has worked on my dad's 2001 F50 for me. Good luck. + +Click to expand... + + + + +Thanks, that makes some sense and hopefully is the fix, I will update.",You may want to post this question on the Mercury forum o this site. +"I have twin 2004 Yamaha f225 engines. + +Portand starboard engines stall at idle after high rev warm-up. The problem occurswhen I run them at cruising speed for several miles (getting them fully warmedup), then shut the engines off for a while. When I turn them on, the enginesrun for about a minute then stall. They won’t crank until bulb is squeezed,won’t stay running unless I immediately get to higher RPMs (say, greater than2500). Runs fine after that, even at idle speed. Thought it might be the lowpressure fuel pump but I ran it at idle at the dock for 1 ½ hours and it didfine. It only happens after I’ve been running for a while, turn them off andlet them cool down a little, and then turn them on. + + +Earlierthis year it was happening only with the port engine, but now it’s bothengines. This didn’t happen last year. This year I changed gas stations forfuel-ups. Could it be fuel related? + +Anyadvice would be greatly appreciated.","Hello. + + +First of all, I would advise against high-rev warmups. The engines should be able to idle without any manual throttle being applied. And never idle it for 1.5 hours. You can potentially fry the computers that way. Try to keep it under 15 minutes max. + + +Check for leaks/kinks in all the fuel lines. The fact that you can squeeze the primer bulb after it stalls (and the engines turn over after you pump it) points to this being the #1 suspect. + + +Also, is your fuel tank venting properly? Next time the issue occurs, open the gas cap. If you hear hissing (i.e. pressure being relieved), then that's at least part of your problem, because lack of venting creates a vacuum effect in the fuel lines. So the pumps are constantly working against that vacuum. + + +If it's venting ok, then check for water or gunk in the fuel filter. If you find anything other than fresh fuel, clean out the fuel system.","Hello. + + +First of all, I would advise against high-rev warmups. The engines should be able to idle without any manual throttle being applied. And never idle it for 1.5 hours. You can potentially fry the computers that way. Try to keep it under 15 minutes max. + + +Check for leaks/kinks in all the fuel lines. The fact that you can squeeze the primer bulb after it stalls (and the engines turn over after you pump it) points to this being the #1 suspect. + + +Also, is your fuel tank venting properly? Next time the issue occurs, open the gas cap. If you hear hissing (i.e. pressure being relieved), then that's at least part of your problem, because lack of venting creates a vacuum effect in the fuel lines. So the pumps are constantly working against that vacuum. + + +If it's venting ok, then check for water or gunk in the fuel filter. If you find anything other than fresh fuel, clean out the fuel system.","Put the rebuilt starter in last night and she fired right up. When I took the starter out, it was clean. No rust and the gear looked good. I am going to say it was a ground issue in the starter. The lesson learned here was that those starters can be repaired and there is no aftermarket for them! Thanks for the thoughts." +"I have twin 2004 Yamaha f225 engines. + +Portand starboard engines stall at idle after high rev warm-up. The problem occurswhen I run them at cruising speed for several miles (getting them fully warmedup), then shut the engines off for a while. When I turn them on, the enginesrun for about a minute then stall. They won’t crank until bulb is squeezed,won’t stay running unless I immediately get to higher RPMs (say, greater than2500). Runs fine after that, even at idle speed. Thought it might be the lowpressure fuel pump but I ran it at idle at the dock for 1 ½ hours and it didfine. It only happens after I’ve been running for a while, turn them off andlet them cool down a little, and then turn them on. + + +Earlierthis year it was happening only with the port engine, but now it’s bothengines. This didn’t happen last year. This year I changed gas stations forfuel-ups. Could it be fuel related? + +Anyadvice would be greatly appreciated.",Thanks. I'm taking the boat to my Yamaha tech next week and I'll copy him on your post.,Thanks. I'm taking the boat to my Yamaha tech next week and I'll copy him on your post.,"It does sound like a fuel problem so just follow the system from one end to the other. Start with the tank: is the vent open properly? Are the valves in the bulb in the fuel line working correctly? Are the fittings on the fuel line seated properly? You've already done the filter so next is the fuel pump. Make sure it is sealed well, the reed valves and clean and correctly aligned and the membranes aren't torn or frayed. The final step in the fuel system is going to be carburettors which may need a clean. + +Also, any chance it is an overheat situation? + +Stuart" +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","Just tested the engine if it runs without one of the plug caps and yes. Engine runs the same without the bottom plug cap. + +So it's running on 1 cylinder... I checked the bottom spark plug and it is pitch black? + +Swapped the spark plugs but then the engine won't run.. Edit: Engine does run when sparks are swapped","Just tested the engine if it runs without one of the plug caps and yes. Engine runs the same without the bottom plug cap. + +So it's running on 1 cylinder... I checked the bottom spark plug and it is pitch black? + +Swapped the spark plugs but then the engine won't run.. Edit: Engine does run when sparks are swapped",Ok maybe stupid question but what is best way to clean tank?? I can get at thru sender opening +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers",Do a compression test ----Then check for strong spark.,Do a compression test ----Then check for strong spark.,"Before you start with the wiring, did you check the filter on the remote tank? The oil pump runs at two speeds, slow when the float in the Main(engine) tank is activated and fast when the emergency switch is activated. + +If the filter is clogged it will not pass oil when in slow speed but will pass oil when in high speed. + +The filter can not be cleaned. + +If the pump is verified to not be coming on at all from the float switch, do yourself a favor get a replacement harness for the remote oil tank, lay it out across the deck of the boat, hook it up and retest. + +I have changed at least a dozen of these harnesses in the last 5 years, The will test good with an ohm meter and fail under load. When you remove the old harness from the rigging tube you will see the wires will be swollen." +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","Compression is 110 psi on lower and 120 on upper cilinder. + +Hooked the lower cil spark plug cable to my spark gab tester and it does spark when running the motor on the upper cilinder, but it's a rather thin white spark. + +Also tried swapping the spark plugs again and the engine now also runs when swapping plugs. So it's not a faulty spark plug.","Compression is 110 psi on lower and 120 on upper cilinder. + +Hooked the lower cil spark plug cable to my spark gab tester and it does spark when running the motor on the upper cilinder, but it's a rather thin white spark. + +Also tried swapping the spark plugs again and the engine now also runs when swapping plugs. So it's not a faulty spark plug.",click on technical question +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","Does the spark jump a gap of 1 cm (3/8"" ) on both leads when cranking it over , yes or no ?","Does the spark jump a gap of 1 cm (3/8"" ) on both leads when cranking it over , yes or no ?","Alan S said: + + + + Thank you. Yes I disconnected the hose at the pee hole but not on the block end. I will try detaching it there. Will it hurt to use some compressed air? Alan + +Click to expand... + + +No, compressed air if fine. + + + + +Alan S said: + + + + .....unclogging the pee hole with a paper clip + +Click to expand... + + +If debris was lodged in the telltale hose nearest the water exit then its possible there is more debris in the hose nearest the block. Water discharge from the telltale hose is not the only point of water exiting the cooling system....there are multiple points on the LU as well. So if you see water exiting these LU points, but do not see water exiting the telltale, and your overheat alarm doesn't trigger, then its safe to assume water is reaching/cooling the motor." +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","racerone said: + + + + Does the spark jump a gap of 1 cm (3/8"" ) on both leads when cranking it over , yes or no ? + +Click to expand... + + +Im not sure as it isnt an electrical start motor. Have to pull and watch, but if im right it is the same... +Bottom spark is easily tested as I can run the engine on the upper cilinder and watch the lower spark while it's running.","racerone said: + + + + Does the spark jump a gap of 1 cm (3/8"" ) on both leads when cranking it over , yes or no ? + +Click to expand... + + +Im not sure as it isnt an electrical start motor. Have to pull and watch, but if im right it is the same... +Bottom spark is easily tested as I can run the engine on the upper cilinder and watch the lower spark while it's running.",Found defective wire harness from supply oil tank to engine.I replaced the harness-OK now.No further alarm. +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","Sorry,---- I was looking for a simple YES or NO on this.-----With clear answers you will get more tips.------As it is now I can not be of further assistance","Sorry,---- I was looking for a simple YES or NO on this.-----With clear answers you will get more tips.------As it is now I can not be of further assistance",And offshore here oyster beds eat them up. +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","Can you take a video that just shows one of the carburetors? Is there only one adjustment screw? + +Sounds like one of the plugs is getting fouled because the air/fuel mixture is incorrect.","Can you take a video that just shows one of the carburetors? Is there only one adjustment screw? + +Sounds like one of the plugs is getting fouled because the air/fuel mixture is incorrect.","Thanks - I was thinking of gummed up carb's but, as you say, the motors haven't seen fuel yet." +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","View attachment 20212 +Found a problem in the bottom carburetor. The pilot jet tube has a big crack. + +I removed the carb to check it out. Tried soldering the crack but the solder wouldn't stick and I made it much worse as you can see + +View attachment 20213 + +I bought a brass tube at my local hobby store and tried to copy it. Couldn't really get the exact same diameter but got a close one, the tube is only a little thicker. Drilled out a bit on one end so the jet screw would fit but I couldn't replicate the holes at the bottom like the original because I don't have a table drill... The thing is I also can't figure out what they are for because they end up inside the carb wall as explained below: + + +Now I tried running the engine with the new made pilot and the cilinder fired in idle! So my guess is I did well. The only downside is that the engine is stuttering now when I let go of the throttle after revving up. (It's probably because the engine is now running on 2 cilinders and is out of sync or something) + +Could that be because I didn't replicate the tiny holes? Also tried and tested each cilinder individual and I was able to run on the bottom cilinder only but it's having a hard time. Have to give it more gas, but too much gas will stall the engine while running on the top one only allows me to throttle it up just fine. + +I tried playing with the air mixture screws but I also can't find that sweet spot.","View attachment 20212 +Found a problem in the bottom carburetor. The pilot jet tube has a big crack. + +I removed the carb to check it out. Tried soldering the crack but the solder wouldn't stick and I made it much worse as you can see + +View attachment 20213 + +I bought a brass tube at my local hobby store and tried to copy it. Couldn't really get the exact same diameter but got a close one, the tube is only a little thicker. Drilled out a bit on one end so the jet screw would fit but I couldn't replicate the holes at the bottom like the original because I don't have a table drill... The thing is I also can't figure out what they are for because they end up inside the carb wall as explained below: + + +Now I tried running the engine with the new made pilot and the cilinder fired in idle! So my guess is I did well. The only downside is that the engine is stuttering now when I let go of the throttle after revving up. (It's probably because the engine is now running on 2 cilinders and is out of sync or something) + +Could that be because I didn't replicate the tiny holes? Also tried and tested each cilinder individual and I was able to run on the bottom cilinder only but it's having a hard time. Have to give it more gas, but too much gas will stall the engine while running on the top one only allows me to throttle it up just fine. + +I tried playing with the air mixture screws but I also can't find that sweet spot.",low on fluid causes air bubbles in system thus reducing hydralulic pressure. +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers",Your arrow appears to be pointing to the main jet and the pilot jet.. they're close to each other. The main jet is the bottom-most hole.,Your arrow appears to be pointing to the main jet and the pilot jet.. they're close to each other. The main jet is the bottom-most hole.,Thanks for the reply I have two fuel tanks it doesn't matter which one I use it still boggs down already replace all three mechanical fuel pumps drained all the fuel n checked fuel tank pick ups . bulb stays hard when it will get on plain replace all coils don't think I have a misfire more fuel related hard to figure out +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","rejesterd said: + + + + Your arrow appears to be pointing to the main jet and the pilot jet.. they're close to each other. The main jet is the bottom-most hole. + +Click to expand... + + +It's just a hollow tube that has 4 holes at the bottom of it. +The tube is directly connected to the main jet: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/55/66336475-and-below-ml/carburetor + +I don't see any separate channels","rejesterd said: + + + + Your arrow appears to be pointing to the main jet and the pilot jet.. they're close to each other. The main jet is the bottom-most hole. + +Click to expand... + + +It's just a hollow tube that has 4 holes at the bottom of it. +The tube is directly connected to the main jet: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/55/66336475-and-below-ml/carburetor + +I don't see any separate channels",Thanks for the response. Can the diodes be tested while wired into their circuits? +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","Royall said: + + + + Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers + +Click to expand... + + +oops. + +that was engine of my first boat. + +I wonder did you clean up the carb.","Royall said: + + + + Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers + +Click to expand... + + +oops. + +that was engine of my first boat. + +I wonder did you clean up the carb.","Mechanic indicates it is a problem in the engine harness (a bad diode or something?). It is underwarranty but harness is backordered. I assume more to come. I am also going to replace the wire harnesses that go from the engines (twins) to the binnacle at the dash. May replace the binnacle as well. Both are 18 year old and sees salt spray. I'm thinking preventative measures. More to come. +Len" +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","Jinsoo said: + + + + oops. + +that was engine of my first boat. + +I wonder did you clean up the carb. + +Click to expand... + + +I did check the jets but it all looked clean..","Jinsoo said: + + + + oops. + +that was engine of my first boat. + +I wonder did you clean up the carb. + +Click to expand... + + +I did check the jets but it all looked clean..","If the brakes are not engaging with the slow reverse you are fine, you are not hurting anything. If the brakes start to engage that will cause the surge cylinder to activate more so you will need to stop and revers direction a bit to releave the lock up. I added a high pressure block valve from McMaster Carr to the line right behind my surge brakes, that allows me to do whatever I want without the brakes engaging, I just open the valve when I am heading out on the road" +"Hi there, + +Just bought this old 2 stroke engine from the 80's. It's a Mariner/Yamaha 55hp. Got it running, but it doesn't run good. + +I had to turn the gas screw on the carbs all the way in to get it running idle, but still bad. + +Here is a video: + + + + + +What do you guys think? +Is one cilinder not running? + +Cheers","This is how the engine runs atm. Recreated the pilot jet from a brass tube which made it run on two cylinders again. + +It runs a lot better but also has some nasty hiccups when you let go of the gas...","This is how the engine runs atm. Recreated the pilot jet from a brass tube which made it run on two cylinders again. + +It runs a lot better but also has some nasty hiccups when you let go of the gas...","jan joyce said: + + + +Are there problems on this model T50 TLRC Yamaha 50 hp 4 stroke? What would you recommend we try? Thank you.​Last edited by jan joyce; Today at 09:09 PM. Reason: add more information​ + +Click to expand... + + +No, no problems. I recommend you follow the time and sync procedure in the service manual." +"Can I use the Quicksilver (Mercury) Tachometers (for 2 stroke 90hp Mercurys) with my 2007 Yamaha 2 stroke 85hps? + +If so what wiring do I have to do?","Yes. + +A tachometer only needs 12 volts, a ground and the tachometer signal. The green wire in the Yamaha ten pin harness carries the tachometer signal.","Yes. + +A tachometer only needs 12 volts, a ground and the tachometer signal. The green wire in the Yamaha ten pin harness carries the tachometer signal.","Vampirical Rose said: + + + + I have a 1988 Stingray 198 LX that needs the floor replaced as well as the engine cover replaced and and new power transplant. Overall I like the shape and design of the boat it just looks fast. + +I also have a 1986 Wellcraft Classic 200 XI that needs the floor replaced and more interior work then the stingray to be done. The boat itself doesnt seem bad but it has a generic shape there is nothing that stands out about it. + +My plan was to take the power plant from the Wellcraft a 5.7 Mercruiser with a alpha 1 drive and put it into my Stingray taking all the little nick nacks to make my stingray complete. As i had them both sitting next to each other I started to wonder which would be the best one to actually fix up. + +If you guys could share your opinions an make any suggestions I would appreciate it. Both boats cannot stay so i have to choose one to fix and one to be a parts boat later to be sold as a shell or given away to someone who wants there own project. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... They're both old enough to believe yer gonna be replacin' not only the deck, but the stringers, 'n transom as well,... +Boats, Rot from the bottom up,... + +That said, it's Yer choice,... Whichever 1 ya like, 'n think will best fit yer needs,..." +"Can I use the Quicksilver (Mercury) Tachometers (for 2 stroke 90hp Mercurys) with my 2007 Yamaha 2 stroke 85hps? + +If so what wiring do I have to do?",Thanks will try.,Thanks will try.,"boscoe said: + + + + Both white connectors attach to a harness that runs to the gauges. Over temp, low oil quantity caution (remote tank), low oil warning (main tank), trim information, power supply to the trim sender, etc.. + +Click to expand... + + +hey so I found the oil tank connection, was tied up underneath the block. I forgot to ask what the blue cable with the bullet connection is for, have you seen this?" +"Hi Guys, + +Got a mate of mine here in Papua New Guinea with a broken gear shift shaft ( gear selector rod / shaft that runs from power head to water pump area via the leg) and we cant remove the top section via the lower case + +Does this shaft come out from the bottom with leg off or do we need to remove complete power head ? + +Its a Yamaha 200AET / 708582 + +Cheers",Power plant needs to be removed.,Power plant needs to be removed.,"I saw a video where, on a later motor, the water pressure sensor had rotted out and it shorted helm power. Is that possible? Is there any kind of a short that would kill the helm juice and affect the voltage at the switch that way? Is it possibly a control unit problem? + +thanks, really appreciate any help. And to those who have already offered advice, thanks again. I’ll double check ground wire at motor." +"1996 TRLU 90hp 2 stroke overheated the other day while out. No water from the telltale. +Disassembled and replaced the housing impeller and gaskets. Pushed water through the telltale down ward and it came out the bottom of the lower unit both with the lower on and off, so I do not think there is a clog in there. +Started it up, still don't get any flow out the telltale. +Could this be a thermostat issue? I have rinsed it every day after use with fresh water and noticed little buildup when I took it apart. + +Any ideas would be appreciated.","I don't think it's a thermostat issue. If the water pump is doing its job and you have no blockages in the lines, you'll get water out of the exit hole (regardless of whether the thermostat is open or closed). + +What water pump kit did you buy? If you can back-flush it through the exit hole, I would say your problem is the water pump, or a clog near the water intake. It's possible that the clog will only occur when water is being pumped up, and not when you back-flush it.","I don't think it's a thermostat issue. If the water pump is doing its job and you have no blockages in the lines, you'll get water out of the exit hole (regardless of whether the thermostat is open or closed). + +What water pump kit did you buy? If you can back-flush it through the exit hole, I would say your problem is the water pump, or a clog near the water intake. It's possible that the clog will only occur when water is being pumped up, and not when you back-flush it.","Hamfisted said: + + + + Hello ! Yes, it's been a long time. What motor are you working on ? Can you get any stainless wire to pass into the outlet nipple? Stainless leader wire is a good tool for this. The water jacket itself can't really be disassembled, but you can remove some plates and covers to gain access to limited areas. Your best bet is to work to get a wire or small drill bit to be able to pass into the outlet nipple and free up whatever is blocking. Running the motor in a tub of fresh water and white vinegar is a good way to do a mild sediment flush on the motor. The CLR is a more aggressive way to clean out the water jacket, but you have to be sure to get a good fresh water flush out after using it. + +Click to expand... + + + +Awesome! I will try those things and see if I have luck. I've been on TheHullTruth forum as well with bunch of suggestions (some of them repetitive as the responders don't always read the whole thread). I'll see if this has any good results and let you know. Thanks a bunch!! -Mike" +"1996 TRLU 90hp 2 stroke overheated the other day while out. No water from the telltale. +Disassembled and replaced the housing impeller and gaskets. Pushed water through the telltale down ward and it came out the bottom of the lower unit both with the lower on and off, so I do not think there is a clog in there. +Started it up, still don't get any flow out the telltale. +Could this be a thermostat issue? I have rinsed it every day after use with fresh water and noticed little buildup when I took it apart. + +Any ideas would be appreciated.","I'm wondering why the pump kit you replaced failed. I mean they do wear and either the rubber impeller or gasket will erode, or both....but you would see this when disassembling. Hard to miss black shredded rubber debris. + +As as the previous member stated, even if you've got blockage in the cooling system you'll still get water out the t/t as its the path of least resistance. Only a few things that could be the issue w/no water after replacing kit....impeller not engaged w/woodruff key, housing tube gasket is missing, or mid section water tube not linked w/housing. Troubleshoot from l/u up....water intake, drive shaft turn key, key turns impeller, impeller propels water thru housing, thru water tube, thru t/t.","I'm wondering why the pump kit you replaced failed. I mean they do wear and either the rubber impeller or gasket will erode, or both....but you would see this when disassembling. Hard to miss black shredded rubber debris. + +As as the previous member stated, even if you've got blockage in the cooling system you'll still get water out the t/t as its the path of least resistance. Only a few things that could be the issue w/no water after replacing kit....impeller not engaged w/woodruff key, housing tube gasket is missing, or mid section water tube not linked w/housing. Troubleshoot from l/u up....water intake, drive shaft turn key, key turns impeller, impeller propels water thru housing, thru water tube, thru t/t.","The fuel pump looks good . It is 17 years old, guess it couldn't hurt to change it." +"have a constant alarm as soon as i turn key....motor fires up immediatley and purs like a kitten minus the alarm. if i unplug the float from the main tank, the alarm goes off. i purchased a new float and installed. boat ran great for a few miles then alarm came back on. if i unplug the float, the alarm goes off....could it be a clogged filten on main tank?","I don't know about this particular model year, but yes, a clogged filter can certainly cause the buzzer to sound. If it's not clogged, I would replace the wiring harness for the float.","I don't know about this particular model year, but yes, a clogged filter can certainly cause the buzzer to sound. If it's not clogged, I would replace the wiring harness for the float.","if you have a shop close by, you should be ok....around here, most do a flat rate fee/exchange....if you insist, they will rebuild your core....new bearings, brushes, clean up the slip rings and check the diodes, stator and rotor..." +"have a constant alarm as soon as i turn key....motor fires up immediatley and purs like a kitten minus the alarm. if i unplug the float from the main tank, the alarm goes off. i purchased a new float and installed. boat ran great for a few miles then alarm came back on. if i unplug the float, the alarm goes off....could it be a clogged filten on main tank?","Yam gauges? If so what's gauge oil indicator doing? Alarm when turning key to ON position indicates either low oil (in either main tank, reservior, or both) or low volts. Troubleshoot accordingly. If volts and oil levels good, then i reckon the low oil level switch ground is bad.","Yam gauges? If so what's gauge oil indicator doing? Alarm when turning key to ON position indicates either low oil (in either main tank, reservior, or both) or low volts. Troubleshoot accordingly. If volts and oil levels good, then i reckon the low oil level switch ground is bad.",thanks Mdoherty +"have a constant alarm as soon as i turn key....motor fires up immediatley and purs like a kitten minus the alarm. if i unplug the float from the main tank, the alarm goes off. i purchased a new float and installed. boat ran great for a few miles then alarm came back on. if i unplug the float, the alarm goes off....could it be a clogged filten on main tank?","yamaha gauges yes....can i see them, no. they are old and faded. i can barely see a small triangle over the low oil indicator.both tanks are full of oil. oil level switch??","yamaha gauges yes....can i see them, no. they are old and faded. i can barely see a small triangle over the low oil indicator.both tanks are full of oil. oil level switch??","Mikey N.C. said: + + + + I'm I missing something , doesn't stator generate AC at 400 to 700, and rectifier changes it to. Dc ? + +Click to expand... + + +The lighting coil does produce AC voltage but not as high as you indicate. The SM shows minimum voltage as being 26 peak AC volts at 1500 RPM and 60 peak AC volts at 3500 RPM. With the lighting coil unloaded. That is, it is not connected to the rectifier/regulator." +"have a constant alarm as soon as i turn key....motor fires up immediatley and purs like a kitten minus the alarm. if i unplug the float from the main tank, the alarm goes off. i purchased a new float and installed. boat ran great for a few miles then alarm came back on. if i unplug the float, the alarm goes off....could it be a clogged filten on main tank?",The switch or along its pathway. Grab a multimeter and drop volt test to locate the bug. It's grounding causing the false positive alarm.,The switch or along its pathway. Grab a multimeter and drop volt test to locate the bug. It's grounding causing the false positive alarm.,"whaler200 said: + + + + Replaced old carb with new yamaha eom carb $$$ ran fine on the muffs after starting...took boat out for a test and still getting sputtering when attempting to accelerate but will accelerate under full throttle and run. When backing off throttle it seems like it's missing and occasionally will backfire through carb if you rev it up at idle in neutral. I've checked both gap and resistance on new plugs all ok there. I now suspect a coil issue but what's the easy way to check resistance in the coil and help isolate the problem and I also need the ohm specs for this coil. Also replaced thermostat with new one. I will occasionally get a warning horn at idle now after running a while and it doesn't stop until it cools off but for the life of me the engine appears normal temp wise and the pee hole is warm showing correct thermostat operation. Again I'm trying to assess overheat switch of some sort or oil pressure warning switch is faulty. + +Click to expand... + + +I have a 300 yamaha and I had a alarm going off and I thought it was a oil problem since I have a temp gauge and pisser was flowing I didnt think it was temp problem after 3 days of checking everything out with the oil including a new float in main tank on motor its a 2 stroke I come to find out there is a sensor in the fuel bow on the motor that was holding water to set off the float in the bowl causing the alarm to go off +so my advice to you is to change your water separator and filters and see if the problem persist" +"Hello, I removed both cams on a 2001 f80. After securing both cams back in their cradles I had a brain fart and couldn't remember if I put the cams in their correct cradle. When i disassembled them I layed them out on cardboard with the correct port/starboard labels but got ahead of myself and then boubted myself and after the first installation I swapped them and now I'm not sure if I got them right. +My book says that the exhaust cam has a tang or a pink dye mark. The cam i have in the exhaust side has pink/red mark on each cam lobe and the clamps to hold cam in place. It also has a tang above the top lobe, that the other cam does not have. +Their are also some numbers and letters on each cam. +The only visible difference between the cams are that extra tang, the pinkred dye and the stamped numbers letters. +How can I be sure of correct install?","If you camshafts are switched the valve timing will be incorrect. To check, get the engine at number 1 rocking, ie intake should be just starting to open and exhaust closing","If you camshafts are switched the valve timing will be incorrect. To check, get the engine at number 1 rocking, ie intake should be just starting to open and exhaust closing","Is there spark on all the holes? If yes, Pull the carbs. Clean them well. Roll up some emery cloth and sand out the float seats on the carb bodies. + +I have only changes a stator on a Yamaha two times in 20 years." +"Hello, I removed both cams on a 2001 f80. After securing both cams back in their cradles I had a brain fart and couldn't remember if I put the cams in their correct cradle. When i disassembled them I layed them out on cardboard with the correct port/starboard labels but got ahead of myself and then boubted myself and after the first installation I swapped them and now I'm not sure if I got them right. +My book says that the exhaust cam has a tang or a pink dye mark. The cam i have in the exhaust side has pink/red mark on each cam lobe and the clamps to hold cam in place. It also has a tang above the top lobe, that the other cam does not have. +Their are also some numbers and letters on each cam. +The only visible difference between the cams are that extra tang, the pinkred dye and the stamped numbers letters. +How can I be sure of correct install?","Sorry, should have said get engine to TDC No 1 rocking","Sorry, should have said get engine to TDC No 1 rocking",You're in luck. Found a free download of your engines model year. Find it here: https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/688-1987-yamaha-115etln-115etxn/file +"Hello, I removed both cams on a 2001 f80. After securing both cams back in their cradles I had a brain fart and couldn't remember if I put the cams in their correct cradle. When i disassembled them I layed them out on cardboard with the correct port/starboard labels but got ahead of myself and then boubted myself and after the first installation I swapped them and now I'm not sure if I got them right. +My book says that the exhaust cam has a tang or a pink dye mark. The cam i have in the exhaust side has pink/red mark on each cam lobe and the clamps to hold cam in place. It also has a tang above the top lobe, that the other cam does not have. +Their are also some numbers and letters on each cam. +The only visible difference between the cams are that extra tang, the pinkred dye and the stamped numbers letters. +How can I be sure of correct install?","Thanks, didn't think of that. +It's sitting on the bench at tdc with the valve cover off .","Thanks, didn't think of that. +It's sitting on the bench at tdc with the valve cover off .","I think you asked about this on the other forum. Check out the link I posted there for the CDI/throttle adjustment procedure: + +https://imgur.com/a/CZPu3u9 + +Again, that's for a 1999 70 hp, so it might not be correct.. but it seems to be the same push-to-open throttle CDI that I assume yours has." +"2005 200 Yam +Owner wants to disconnect the alarms and go pre-mix. +Doesn't want to pay the 165$ for a new pump. + +How do I disconnect? +Thanks","You don't. You repair the system. + +The pump in the tank went bad? Was it under water.","You don't. You repair the system. + +The pump in the tank went bad? Was it under water.","Yes, I believe it is, more or less. We've run the boat for 14 years and this is a new development. Also, I can get the same result by slowly lifting the motor when in neutral. +Is there any part or gasket that could be the culprit that would cause the pump to stop drawing water when the water level is below the pump?" +"2005 200 Yam +Owner wants to disconnect the alarms and go pre-mix. +Doesn't want to pay the 165$ for a new pump. + +How do I disconnect? +Thanks","I want to replace the pump the owner says NO. + +The boats a Key West 21ft, +The oil tank's under the back floor and the hatch seal stopped working long ago. +So every time any water gets in the boat it rains over the tank. +He fishes the Atlantic waters off Sebastian, Fl. + +The new pump costs about 160$ and he can't afford it.","I want to replace the pump the owner says NO. + +The boats a Key West 21ft, +The oil tank's under the back floor and the hatch seal stopped working long ago. +So every time any water gets in the boat it rains over the tank. +He fishes the Atlantic waters off Sebastian, Fl. + +The new pump costs about 160$ and he can't afford it.","Richie007 said: + + + + Thanks. Do you think its repairable or not? + +Click to expand... + + +My answer pretty much covers it...New engine..... If you get it to seal up the cylinder head will have a hole in it shortly." +"2005 200 Yam +Owner wants to disconnect the alarms and go pre-mix. +Doesn't want to pay the 165$ for a new pump. + +How do I disconnect? +Thanks",If he can't afford $160 he cannot afford his boat.,If he can't afford $160 he cannot afford his boat.,"No problem. When you go at it again, and if you have problems, feel free to contact me directly. You can send a note to me thru here and I'll give you my e-mail and / or phone and walk you thru it. I am an Engineer by trade, electrician by school training and mechanic by desire / need. I'll try to do a typical water heater drawing and show where / what to test for you." +"2005 200 Yam +Owner wants to disconnect the alarms and go pre-mix. +Doesn't want to pay the 165$ for a new pump. + +How do I disconnect? +Thanks",His choice.,His choice.,Forgot to mention that I also swapped the coil from the top cylinder to the bottom cylinder and nothing changed. +"2005 200 Yam +Owner wants to disconnect the alarms and go pre-mix. +Doesn't want to pay the 165$ for a new pump. + +How do I disconnect? +Thanks","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + His choice. + +Click to expand... + + +Sorry, I am not being a wise ass, Yamaha's oiling system is one of the best. I would talk him into keeping it and repairing it.","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + His choice. + +Click to expand... + + +Sorry, I am not being a wise ass, Yamaha's oiling system is one of the best. I would talk him into keeping it and repairing it.","kkofoed said: + + + + Thank Bondo, I did find a diagram on how the PAS works. In the meantime I connected both cables to the PAS, both helms now steer but are still very difficult and jerky. I am thinking I really need to connect the upper steering helm to the lower helm. Then have a single cable go to the PAS. Unfortunately I cannot find a rack & pinion cable that goes from one rack & pinion helm to the other rack & pinion helm. I see where I can order the a rotary system that will work but would require me to replaced all helms and cables (too much $$$). Do you know of any one that makes custom steering cables? Thanks + +View attachment 16607View attachment 16608 + +Click to expand... + +If you even have the room under the dash for the rotary system. By any chance is the lower helm a non feedback helm?" +"2005 200 Yam +Owner wants to disconnect the alarms and go pre-mix. +Doesn't want to pay the 165$ for a new pump. + +How do I disconnect? +Thanks",I tried.,I tried.,"If you've cleaned the carbs 3 times I imagine you backout out the brass fuel jets and made sure those tiny orifices are perfectly clean and clear? Will it start without choking the carbs if you open the throttle more? If so, perhaps the idle speed needs to be increased. Remember one thing about setting the idle speed via the idle speed adjustment screws... Always set the idle with the boat in the water and engine's lower unit submerged in the water (not hooked up to earmuffs on land). If the idle is set while hooked up to earmuffs on land it will almost never idle when in the water due to the backpressure created by the exhaust (think of blowing through a straw sunk in a deep glass of water vs. blowing through one that isn't)... Takes more fuel/combustion to force that exhaust under pressure down below the water line and out through the hub." +"2005 200 Yam +Owner wants to disconnect the alarms and go pre-mix. +Doesn't want to pay the 165$ for a new pump. + +How do I disconnect? +Thanks","You would be better served to tell him to take the motor elsewhere. + +Or maybe tell him that the cost to disable the system will be a minimum of $500.00.","You would be better served to tell him to take the motor elsewhere. + +Or maybe tell him that the cost to disable the system will be a minimum of $500.00.","If you are running a portable fuel tank has it been dumped,cleaned and flushed? Was there water in the filters? Has the carb bowl been drained and inspected for water?" +"2005 200 Yam +Owner wants to disconnect the alarms and go pre-mix. +Doesn't want to pay the 165$ for a new pump. + +How do I disconnect? +Thanks","boscoe said: + + + + You would be better served to tell him to take the motor elsewhere. + +Or maybe tell him that the cost to disable the system will be a minimum of $500.00. + +Click to expand... + + +Exactly. + +Disconnecting the oiling system on a Yamaha is like amputating a perfectly good limb.","boscoe said: + + + + You would be better served to tell him to take the motor elsewhere. + +Or maybe tell him that the cost to disable the system will be a minimum of $500.00. + +Click to expand... + + +Exactly. + +Disconnecting the oiling system on a Yamaha is like amputating a perfectly good limb.","The issue is resolved. The water pump was bad and needed rebuilt and the lower unit was low in oil. there was no water in it because i replaced all the seals a year ago. i rebuilt the carbs, water pump and rinsed the lower unit out and filled with new oil. Everything seems fine now. Thanks for the advice." +"Hi everyone, +i am installing new to me twin Yamaha 70 Beto outboards 1992 ( I think) to my refurbished boat. + +I am wondering what and how this junction box is installed if at all. + +My last outboards were 70 evinrudes old ones early 1980s which this part may have come from but as I didn’t remove old outboards I’m unsure if it belongs to the old units or not . + +Can’t find much as far as images online any help much appreciated.","That does not look like a ""junction"" box to me.","That does not look like a ""junction"" box to me.","auchandler1 said: + + + + Can you use it if you already painted it some? + +Click to expand... + + +I would have to ask how much is some. The edges are really important, CPES really gets into the grain. By sealing the out moisture and the fungus which grows in fresh water, rot will not get a chance to take hold, and the plywood will be less likely to delaminate." +"So I picked this up three weeks ago from an offer up post. Wasn't sure if I could get it running but figured I could least part it out. After I got the plugs out I put in some penetrating oil and a little 2 cycle and let it sit. Flywheel turned pretty easy but I swore saw what looked like a small leaf in one of the cylinders after a quarter turn. Pulled the head to find what was going on and included pics of what I saw. On the underside of the head I could only describe as decomposed leaves you would find in a gutter. Not sure what kind of story would explain this. Looks like carbon deposits in the cylinder too. Would this suggest that the powerhead needs to be tore down? Can I clean out the cylinder as is sits? Guesses on what is in it? + + + Having a hard time with photos for some reason will post after I figure it out.",Figured it out. Stuff on the concrete is from underneath head.,Figured it out. Stuff on the concrete is from underneath head.,"lander12 said: + + + + Your UTube link does not seem to work. The dot between tu and be may be the problem. + +Why did you change your impeller back in July? Was it to correct a problem similar to your present one? + +Click to expand... + + +I changed the impeller because my old lower unit had corrosion so i purchased another lower unit and changed the impeller. I inherited the boat which is a 2007 carolina skiff with very low hours on it and the boat has never had any problems. the new link is below. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INKxviiKJc" +"Yamaha F150, set idling speed at 750 rpm, next close the top cowling, the engine shuts down. + +Then set the idling speed at 1000 rpm, next close the top cowling, the engine rpm reduced to 700 rpm, and operated smooth at any throttle position + +Please advice,","What model year is it? I would say something is restricting air flow. Does it only happen on cold startup, or does it happen even after the engine is warmed up? If it happens on both cold and warm startup, I would guess the cowling is putting a kink in one of the fuel lines.","What model year is it? I would say something is restricting air flow. Does it only happen on cold startup, or does it happen even after the engine is warmed up? If it happens on both cold and warm startup, I would guess the cowling is putting a kink in one of the fuel lines.",Thanks Eric and nice to get explanation of why .... much appreciated. +"Yamaha F150, set idling speed at 750 rpm, next close the top cowling, the engine shuts down. + +Then set the idling speed at 1000 rpm, next close the top cowling, the engine rpm reduced to 700 rpm, and operated smooth at any throttle position + +Please advice,",This makes zero sense. The cowling is open to air by way of vents. Amd if the fuel line is being pinched when you attempt to snap down the cowling you'd feel it....doesn't take much downward force to lock down the 4 latches.,This makes zero sense. The cowling is open to air by way of vents. Amd if the fuel line is being pinched when you attempt to snap down the cowling you'd feel it....doesn't take much downward force to lock down the 4 latches.,"Good ; I know on mine, I was having a time till I realized that there was another boat hidden underneath the trim tab, Then it came right off." +"Hi folks, I’ve was pointed in the direction of this forum in hope of fixing a long term engine problem I’ve been having. It’s stumped myself and 2 mechanics for the last 2 years and I’m finding myself at a bit of a loss. The following is as detailed an outline of the problem well as some theories and solutions we have already tried. All input welcome!. + +Engine: +Yamaha 150 4 stroke which bought new with this zeppelin rib in 2009. + +No previous issues, serviced and winterized yearly. + +Fuel system: +The boat has an Internal fuel tank. The fuel line runs short distance up from tank connection to fuel filter in the console. From fuel filter the fuel line continues the length of the boat back to engine and into its internal smaller fuel filter as normal. There is also a hand primer bulb in console. All a very standard setup. + +So... now to describe the problem: +The engine starts perfectly and gets up to full speed on flat water with no problems. On flat to small choppy conditions everything is 100% perfect. + +The problem arises as the swell starts to build (only slightly) and the banging this causes begins to increase. I will be cutting through a very small sea state nicely and as it builds just a small bit she will come down from a wave with a slightly bigger bump and instantly the engine will change from it’s nice perfect revs to a chug with a bit of a wobble that can be felt in the wheel. I can keep the throttle at the same position but the engine sound has completely changed to what I would describe as a rumble with an associated vibration. If I increase throttle speed the rumble and vibration or imbalance increase and she is under powered. If I bring the throttle back to neutral the rumbling/vibration decreases with revs but if I again increase power they increase also. + +There is no clear method to fixing this issue on the water but the following have worked. 1) turn her off for a few seconds and restart. This doesn’t always work as the problem can still be there upon restart. 2) after trying a restart drive at lower revs and bring up the speed. This some times works some times doesn’t. + +When doing number 2 above and driving at say 40% on the throttle (noting she is vibrating and under powered) she can suddenly kick in to being perfect again for a few seconds, then back to a wobble, then back to perfect on and off until the issue clears and she’s back to running smooth.. until the next wave of the right size. + +One thing to note, when I say swell above I mean very small swell or even large wind chop. Just enough to get a bang vibration through the hull. + +An engine fault does show by means of a slow flashing engine symbol which seems to flash every 5 seconds. + +We ran engine diagnostics live while engaging the problem and it showed no faults but did indicate that the engine could be entering “guardian mode” + +Another thing I’ve noticed. When this issue kicks in and I return the throttle to neutral and there is still a wobble in the engine the idle revs seems smooth when I rise them. + +What we have tried so far: +Theory 1) injectors: +The first mechanic removed injectors and cleaned and reinstalled them but the fix didn’t seem to do much if anything. All in all we have tried this 4 times over the years and while it might seem like it had some effect at first the problem soon returns. + +Theory 2) bad spark plugs, loose filters, fuel line issues: +All of these have been changed and checked multiple times except the fuel line we haven’t run a new one. No dirt or water has shown up in any of the filters. The fuel tank does have a second outlet for a second engine, I changed the fuel lines to this and the problem was the exact same. + +Theory 3) Apricots or loose debris in the fuel tank. I had trouble with this theory for 2 reasons. Firstly, if I bring the boat up to say 75% speed and then kink the fuel line by the tank, there is no effect on the engine for some time as it stall has all the fuel in the lines as well as the fuel filters etc. If something is suddenly stirring in the tank I can’t see how it would have an instant effect on the engine as this problem kicks in instantly. My second issue is that no debris of any kind has ever shown up in the filters. I will try and test an external tank this week just to be sure. + +Theory 4) electrics. +I was told that a bad connection in my isolater switch could be causing the issue which engages from the bang of a swell. I bypassed the switch and the problem continued as normal. + +Other theories) +Air entering fuel line. +Wiring loom problem. + +There have been periods where this issue was worse. During this times it would be there from the moment you start the engine and with an even more notable imbalance and associated chugging sound. Other times it’s more resilient and takes a bigger bang to engage the issue. + +There really isn’t much rhyme or Rhythm to it. Just the fact that a small bang to the boat which she has always handled no problem now causes this issue. + +Any help, theories or thoughts with this would be greatly appreciated. It’s been plaguing my now for 2 years and I don’t know what else to do. The boat is seems so close to being perfect, I just need to solve this issue. + +Please add any follow up questions below. + +Thanks for reading,",How about you condense this into the facts of what the actual problem is so someone might read it.,How about you condense this into the facts of what the actual problem is so someone might read it.,"PBRMAN said: + + + + I suspect that you do not have a functional warning horn. You can verify that by grounding the pink wire on your heat sensor when the key is on. You should hear the horn. Also check to see if your oil tank under the cowl is filling. If the oil level is down to the lower line you will go in to rpm reduction. If the oil transfer filter on the back of the remote tank is restricted you will fill to slowly to keep up with consumption. + +Click to expand... + + + Yes that is correct my horn is not working. There is plenty of oil in the tank and it is keeping up with consumption. However my oil low level light is on warning me of such thing but it has always been like this even when it was running great. The problem just happened out of the blue while I was on a plane about an hour On my way! To my destination and just suddenly bogged down and would not exceed the 1800 rpm." +"Hi folks, I’ve was pointed in the direction of this forum in hope of fixing a long term engine problem I’ve been having. It’s stumped myself and 2 mechanics for the last 2 years and I’m finding myself at a bit of a loss. The following is as detailed an outline of the problem well as some theories and solutions we have already tried. All input welcome!. + +Engine: +Yamaha 150 4 stroke which bought new with this zeppelin rib in 2009. + +No previous issues, serviced and winterized yearly. + +Fuel system: +The boat has an Internal fuel tank. The fuel line runs short distance up from tank connection to fuel filter in the console. From fuel filter the fuel line continues the length of the boat back to engine and into its internal smaller fuel filter as normal. There is also a hand primer bulb in console. All a very standard setup. + +So... now to describe the problem: +The engine starts perfectly and gets up to full speed on flat water with no problems. On flat to small choppy conditions everything is 100% perfect. + +The problem arises as the swell starts to build (only slightly) and the banging this causes begins to increase. I will be cutting through a very small sea state nicely and as it builds just a small bit she will come down from a wave with a slightly bigger bump and instantly the engine will change from it’s nice perfect revs to a chug with a bit of a wobble that can be felt in the wheel. I can keep the throttle at the same position but the engine sound has completely changed to what I would describe as a rumble with an associated vibration. If I increase throttle speed the rumble and vibration or imbalance increase and she is under powered. If I bring the throttle back to neutral the rumbling/vibration decreases with revs but if I again increase power they increase also. + +There is no clear method to fixing this issue on the water but the following have worked. 1) turn her off for a few seconds and restart. This doesn’t always work as the problem can still be there upon restart. 2) after trying a restart drive at lower revs and bring up the speed. This some times works some times doesn’t. + +When doing number 2 above and driving at say 40% on the throttle (noting she is vibrating and under powered) she can suddenly kick in to being perfect again for a few seconds, then back to a wobble, then back to perfect on and off until the issue clears and she’s back to running smooth.. until the next wave of the right size. + +One thing to note, when I say swell above I mean very small swell or even large wind chop. Just enough to get a bang vibration through the hull. + +An engine fault does show by means of a slow flashing engine symbol which seems to flash every 5 seconds. + +We ran engine diagnostics live while engaging the problem and it showed no faults but did indicate that the engine could be entering “guardian mode” + +Another thing I’ve noticed. When this issue kicks in and I return the throttle to neutral and there is still a wobble in the engine the idle revs seems smooth when I rise them. + +What we have tried so far: +Theory 1) injectors: +The first mechanic removed injectors and cleaned and reinstalled them but the fix didn’t seem to do much if anything. All in all we have tried this 4 times over the years and while it might seem like it had some effect at first the problem soon returns. + +Theory 2) bad spark plugs, loose filters, fuel line issues: +All of these have been changed and checked multiple times except the fuel line we haven’t run a new one. No dirt or water has shown up in any of the filters. The fuel tank does have a second outlet for a second engine, I changed the fuel lines to this and the problem was the exact same. + +Theory 3) Apricots or loose debris in the fuel tank. I had trouble with this theory for 2 reasons. Firstly, if I bring the boat up to say 75% speed and then kink the fuel line by the tank, there is no effect on the engine for some time as it stall has all the fuel in the lines as well as the fuel filters etc. If something is suddenly stirring in the tank I can’t see how it would have an instant effect on the engine as this problem kicks in instantly. My second issue is that no debris of any kind has ever shown up in the filters. I will try and test an external tank this week just to be sure. + +Theory 4) electrics. +I was told that a bad connection in my isolater switch could be causing the issue which engages from the bang of a swell. I bypassed the switch and the problem continued as normal. + +Other theories) +Air entering fuel line. +Wiring loom problem. + +There have been periods where this issue was worse. During this times it would be there from the moment you start the engine and with an even more notable imbalance and associated chugging sound. Other times it’s more resilient and takes a bigger bang to engage the issue. + +There really isn’t much rhyme or Rhythm to it. Just the fact that a small bang to the boat which she has always handled no problem now causes this issue. + +Any help, theories or thoughts with this would be greatly appreciated. It’s been plaguing my now for 2 years and I don’t know what else to do. The boat is seems so close to being perfect, I just need to solve this issue. + +Please add any follow up questions below. + +Thanks for reading,","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + How about you condense this into the facts of what the actual problem is so someone might read it. + +Click to expand... + + +Apologies, I'm new to forum etiquette and posting format.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + How about you condense this into the facts of what the actual problem is so someone might read it. + +Click to expand... + + +Apologies, I'm new to forum etiquette and posting format.","Could be the dash switch, a fuse in the switch lead, the float switch, or the wiring connecting the auto side. + +The float could be built into the pump or separate but near the pump. + +Best approach is a thorough inspection; fuse swap is easiest - if that isn't the issue, get a test light with a long enough grounding lead and start probing." +"Hi folks, I’ve was pointed in the direction of this forum in hope of fixing a long term engine problem I’ve been having. It’s stumped myself and 2 mechanics for the last 2 years and I’m finding myself at a bit of a loss. The following is as detailed an outline of the problem well as some theories and solutions we have already tried. All input welcome!. + +Engine: +Yamaha 150 4 stroke which bought new with this zeppelin rib in 2009. + +No previous issues, serviced and winterized yearly. + +Fuel system: +The boat has an Internal fuel tank. The fuel line runs short distance up from tank connection to fuel filter in the console. From fuel filter the fuel line continues the length of the boat back to engine and into its internal smaller fuel filter as normal. There is also a hand primer bulb in console. All a very standard setup. + +So... now to describe the problem: +The engine starts perfectly and gets up to full speed on flat water with no problems. On flat to small choppy conditions everything is 100% perfect. + +The problem arises as the swell starts to build (only slightly) and the banging this causes begins to increase. I will be cutting through a very small sea state nicely and as it builds just a small bit she will come down from a wave with a slightly bigger bump and instantly the engine will change from it’s nice perfect revs to a chug with a bit of a wobble that can be felt in the wheel. I can keep the throttle at the same position but the engine sound has completely changed to what I would describe as a rumble with an associated vibration. If I increase throttle speed the rumble and vibration or imbalance increase and she is under powered. If I bring the throttle back to neutral the rumbling/vibration decreases with revs but if I again increase power they increase also. + +There is no clear method to fixing this issue on the water but the following have worked. 1) turn her off for a few seconds and restart. This doesn’t always work as the problem can still be there upon restart. 2) after trying a restart drive at lower revs and bring up the speed. This some times works some times doesn’t. + +When doing number 2 above and driving at say 40% on the throttle (noting she is vibrating and under powered) she can suddenly kick in to being perfect again for a few seconds, then back to a wobble, then back to perfect on and off until the issue clears and she’s back to running smooth.. until the next wave of the right size. + +One thing to note, when I say swell above I mean very small swell or even large wind chop. Just enough to get a bang vibration through the hull. + +An engine fault does show by means of a slow flashing engine symbol which seems to flash every 5 seconds. + +We ran engine diagnostics live while engaging the problem and it showed no faults but did indicate that the engine could be entering “guardian mode” + +Another thing I’ve noticed. When this issue kicks in and I return the throttle to neutral and there is still a wobble in the engine the idle revs seems smooth when I rise them. + +What we have tried so far: +Theory 1) injectors: +The first mechanic removed injectors and cleaned and reinstalled them but the fix didn’t seem to do much if anything. All in all we have tried this 4 times over the years and while it might seem like it had some effect at first the problem soon returns. + +Theory 2) bad spark plugs, loose filters, fuel line issues: +All of these have been changed and checked multiple times except the fuel line we haven’t run a new one. No dirt or water has shown up in any of the filters. The fuel tank does have a second outlet for a second engine, I changed the fuel lines to this and the problem was the exact same. + +Theory 3) Apricots or loose debris in the fuel tank. I had trouble with this theory for 2 reasons. Firstly, if I bring the boat up to say 75% speed and then kink the fuel line by the tank, there is no effect on the engine for some time as it stall has all the fuel in the lines as well as the fuel filters etc. If something is suddenly stirring in the tank I can’t see how it would have an instant effect on the engine as this problem kicks in instantly. My second issue is that no debris of any kind has ever shown up in the filters. I will try and test an external tank this week just to be sure. + +Theory 4) electrics. +I was told that a bad connection in my isolater switch could be causing the issue which engages from the bang of a swell. I bypassed the switch and the problem continued as normal. + +Other theories) +Air entering fuel line. +Wiring loom problem. + +There have been periods where this issue was worse. During this times it would be there from the moment you start the engine and with an even more notable imbalance and associated chugging sound. Other times it’s more resilient and takes a bigger bang to engage the issue. + +There really isn’t much rhyme or Rhythm to it. Just the fact that a small bang to the boat which she has always handled no problem now causes this issue. + +Any help, theories or thoughts with this would be greatly appreciated. It’s been plaguing my now for 2 years and I don’t know what else to do. The boat is seems so close to being perfect, I just need to solve this issue. + +Please add any follow up questions below. + +Thanks for reading,","You say you've had the injectors cleaned, spark plugs replaced, etc. What do they look like? How long have you had the problem compared to how long you've owned the motor? What kind of fuel do you use? Have you ever completely emptied and cleaned the tank?","You say you've had the injectors cleaned, spark plugs replaced, etc. What do they look like? How long have you had the problem compared to how long you've owned the motor? What kind of fuel do you use? Have you ever completely emptied and cleaned the tank?","After a ""dry"" installation, and after countersinking all the s.st. wood screws, the aluminum cap was installed with...heavy duty (extreme) construction adhesive. The installation looks pretty good, adequate, at least. It cost me only $3.48 for the sealer at the local lumber outlet. I still gotta find something for the cap edges...like big, bulky, rubber corner trim. The vertical side trim is damaged, and I got some stainless sheet metal that I will use to fabricate the engine compartment side trim. Transom is still going to need some gel coat. The dings in the transom were filled with ""formula 27"" filler putty. Going to try to dilute the gel coat and spray the upper transom area." +"Hi folks, I’ve was pointed in the direction of this forum in hope of fixing a long term engine problem I’ve been having. It’s stumped myself and 2 mechanics for the last 2 years and I’m finding myself at a bit of a loss. The following is as detailed an outline of the problem well as some theories and solutions we have already tried. All input welcome!. + +Engine: +Yamaha 150 4 stroke which bought new with this zeppelin rib in 2009. + +No previous issues, serviced and winterized yearly. + +Fuel system: +The boat has an Internal fuel tank. The fuel line runs short distance up from tank connection to fuel filter in the console. From fuel filter the fuel line continues the length of the boat back to engine and into its internal smaller fuel filter as normal. There is also a hand primer bulb in console. All a very standard setup. + +So... now to describe the problem: +The engine starts perfectly and gets up to full speed on flat water with no problems. On flat to small choppy conditions everything is 100% perfect. + +The problem arises as the swell starts to build (only slightly) and the banging this causes begins to increase. I will be cutting through a very small sea state nicely and as it builds just a small bit she will come down from a wave with a slightly bigger bump and instantly the engine will change from it’s nice perfect revs to a chug with a bit of a wobble that can be felt in the wheel. I can keep the throttle at the same position but the engine sound has completely changed to what I would describe as a rumble with an associated vibration. If I increase throttle speed the rumble and vibration or imbalance increase and she is under powered. If I bring the throttle back to neutral the rumbling/vibration decreases with revs but if I again increase power they increase also. + +There is no clear method to fixing this issue on the water but the following have worked. 1) turn her off for a few seconds and restart. This doesn’t always work as the problem can still be there upon restart. 2) after trying a restart drive at lower revs and bring up the speed. This some times works some times doesn’t. + +When doing number 2 above and driving at say 40% on the throttle (noting she is vibrating and under powered) she can suddenly kick in to being perfect again for a few seconds, then back to a wobble, then back to perfect on and off until the issue clears and she’s back to running smooth.. until the next wave of the right size. + +One thing to note, when I say swell above I mean very small swell or even large wind chop. Just enough to get a bang vibration through the hull. + +An engine fault does show by means of a slow flashing engine symbol which seems to flash every 5 seconds. + +We ran engine diagnostics live while engaging the problem and it showed no faults but did indicate that the engine could be entering “guardian mode” + +Another thing I’ve noticed. When this issue kicks in and I return the throttle to neutral and there is still a wobble in the engine the idle revs seems smooth when I rise them. + +What we have tried so far: +Theory 1) injectors: +The first mechanic removed injectors and cleaned and reinstalled them but the fix didn’t seem to do much if anything. All in all we have tried this 4 times over the years and while it might seem like it had some effect at first the problem soon returns. + +Theory 2) bad spark plugs, loose filters, fuel line issues: +All of these have been changed and checked multiple times except the fuel line we haven’t run a new one. No dirt or water has shown up in any of the filters. The fuel tank does have a second outlet for a second engine, I changed the fuel lines to this and the problem was the exact same. + +Theory 3) Apricots or loose debris in the fuel tank. I had trouble with this theory for 2 reasons. Firstly, if I bring the boat up to say 75% speed and then kink the fuel line by the tank, there is no effect on the engine for some time as it stall has all the fuel in the lines as well as the fuel filters etc. If something is suddenly stirring in the tank I can’t see how it would have an instant effect on the engine as this problem kicks in instantly. My second issue is that no debris of any kind has ever shown up in the filters. I will try and test an external tank this week just to be sure. + +Theory 4) electrics. +I was told that a bad connection in my isolater switch could be causing the issue which engages from the bang of a swell. I bypassed the switch and the problem continued as normal. + +Other theories) +Air entering fuel line. +Wiring loom problem. + +There have been periods where this issue was worse. During this times it would be there from the moment you start the engine and with an even more notable imbalance and associated chugging sound. Other times it’s more resilient and takes a bigger bang to engage the issue. + +There really isn’t much rhyme or Rhythm to it. Just the fact that a small bang to the boat which she has always handled no problem now causes this issue. + +Any help, theories or thoughts with this would be greatly appreciated. It’s been plaguing my now for 2 years and I don’t know what else to do. The boat is seems so close to being perfect, I just need to solve this issue. + +Please add any follow up questions below. + +Thanks for reading,","Look at the check valve on your fuel tank. I have a 115 yam 4-stroke and my engine acted very similarly. I had a hunch to use a 6-gallon external tank (only run non-ethanol fuel) and had no issues at any speed or sea conditions. I traced the problem to two items. First, the fuel line had a small kink in it (inside the hull and not readily visible), second, my fuel check valve in my tank stopped functioning as designed. I determined this by inserting a straight flow fitting and have not had a problem since. I also bypassed the fuel/water seperator to take that variable out of the equation. I have since replaced that unit and reconnected it. I know the function of the check valve but I have not installed another one yet and the motor purrs. Good luck.","Look at the check valve on your fuel tank. I have a 115 yam 4-stroke and my engine acted very similarly. I had a hunch to use a 6-gallon external tank (only run non-ethanol fuel) and had no issues at any speed or sea conditions. I traced the problem to two items. First, the fuel line had a small kink in it (inside the hull and not readily visible), second, my fuel check valve in my tank stopped functioning as designed. I determined this by inserting a straight flow fitting and have not had a problem since. I also bypassed the fuel/water seperator to take that variable out of the equation. I have since replaced that unit and reconnected it. I know the function of the check valve but I have not installed another one yet and the motor purrs. Good luck.","Use a volt meter to check the output to the blue and green wires with the trim switch activated. also check that there is a solid earth on the trim motor earth wire. Does the relay (solenoid) click when you try to go up? Is there a solid earth on the solenoid? Most likely scenario is a bad earth to the solenoid. Slightly strange, but simple system." +"Hi folks, I’ve was pointed in the direction of this forum in hope of fixing a long term engine problem I’ve been having. It’s stumped myself and 2 mechanics for the last 2 years and I’m finding myself at a bit of a loss. The following is as detailed an outline of the problem well as some theories and solutions we have already tried. All input welcome!. + +Engine: +Yamaha 150 4 stroke which bought new with this zeppelin rib in 2009. + +No previous issues, serviced and winterized yearly. + +Fuel system: +The boat has an Internal fuel tank. The fuel line runs short distance up from tank connection to fuel filter in the console. From fuel filter the fuel line continues the length of the boat back to engine and into its internal smaller fuel filter as normal. There is also a hand primer bulb in console. All a very standard setup. + +So... now to describe the problem: +The engine starts perfectly and gets up to full speed on flat water with no problems. On flat to small choppy conditions everything is 100% perfect. + +The problem arises as the swell starts to build (only slightly) and the banging this causes begins to increase. I will be cutting through a very small sea state nicely and as it builds just a small bit she will come down from a wave with a slightly bigger bump and instantly the engine will change from it’s nice perfect revs to a chug with a bit of a wobble that can be felt in the wheel. I can keep the throttle at the same position but the engine sound has completely changed to what I would describe as a rumble with an associated vibration. If I increase throttle speed the rumble and vibration or imbalance increase and she is under powered. If I bring the throttle back to neutral the rumbling/vibration decreases with revs but if I again increase power they increase also. + +There is no clear method to fixing this issue on the water but the following have worked. 1) turn her off for a few seconds and restart. This doesn’t always work as the problem can still be there upon restart. 2) after trying a restart drive at lower revs and bring up the speed. This some times works some times doesn’t. + +When doing number 2 above and driving at say 40% on the throttle (noting she is vibrating and under powered) she can suddenly kick in to being perfect again for a few seconds, then back to a wobble, then back to perfect on and off until the issue clears and she’s back to running smooth.. until the next wave of the right size. + +One thing to note, when I say swell above I mean very small swell or even large wind chop. Just enough to get a bang vibration through the hull. + +An engine fault does show by means of a slow flashing engine symbol which seems to flash every 5 seconds. + +We ran engine diagnostics live while engaging the problem and it showed no faults but did indicate that the engine could be entering “guardian mode” + +Another thing I’ve noticed. When this issue kicks in and I return the throttle to neutral and there is still a wobble in the engine the idle revs seems smooth when I rise them. + +What we have tried so far: +Theory 1) injectors: +The first mechanic removed injectors and cleaned and reinstalled them but the fix didn’t seem to do much if anything. All in all we have tried this 4 times over the years and while it might seem like it had some effect at first the problem soon returns. + +Theory 2) bad spark plugs, loose filters, fuel line issues: +All of these have been changed and checked multiple times except the fuel line we haven’t run a new one. No dirt or water has shown up in any of the filters. The fuel tank does have a second outlet for a second engine, I changed the fuel lines to this and the problem was the exact same. + +Theory 3) Apricots or loose debris in the fuel tank. I had trouble with this theory for 2 reasons. Firstly, if I bring the boat up to say 75% speed and then kink the fuel line by the tank, there is no effect on the engine for some time as it stall has all the fuel in the lines as well as the fuel filters etc. If something is suddenly stirring in the tank I can’t see how it would have an instant effect on the engine as this problem kicks in instantly. My second issue is that no debris of any kind has ever shown up in the filters. I will try and test an external tank this week just to be sure. + +Theory 4) electrics. +I was told that a bad connection in my isolater switch could be causing the issue which engages from the bang of a swell. I bypassed the switch and the problem continued as normal. + +Other theories) +Air entering fuel line. +Wiring loom problem. + +There have been periods where this issue was worse. During this times it would be there from the moment you start the engine and with an even more notable imbalance and associated chugging sound. Other times it’s more resilient and takes a bigger bang to engage the issue. + +There really isn’t much rhyme or Rhythm to it. Just the fact that a small bang to the boat which she has always handled no problem now causes this issue. + +Any help, theories or thoughts with this would be greatly appreciated. It’s been plaguing my now for 2 years and I don’t know what else to do. The boat is seems so close to being perfect, I just need to solve this issue. + +Please add any follow up questions below. + +Thanks for reading,","Great explanation. + +Definitely seems more like electronics than a leak. However, I would get the rebuild kit for the mechanical fuel pump, because that gasket might be the thing that's leaking. That's generally the weakest link in the line if pressure ever built up in there (which would be caused by lack of fuel tank venting.. so that's also something to consider looking at). But generally, immediate power loss like that after hitting small waves wouldn't be explained by a leak only. + +Did you run the Yamaha Diagnostic (YDS) tool? I'm surprised that you receive a warning light on the dash but no error codes can be read by YDS. The fact that you get the warning light at the same time the issue starts occurring (which is triggered by the hull bumping around a bit) points more towards an electrical issue. + +Also, have you tested the ECM itself? The service manual will tell you how to do that (i.e. what the output peak voltage spec is). The warning light comes from the ECM, and when you plug in YDS, it should tell you why it signaled the warning light. If it's not giving a code, then maybe the ECM is just damaged.","Great explanation. + +Definitely seems more like electronics than a leak. However, I would get the rebuild kit for the mechanical fuel pump, because that gasket might be the thing that's leaking. That's generally the weakest link in the line if pressure ever built up in there (which would be caused by lack of fuel tank venting.. so that's also something to consider looking at). But generally, immediate power loss like that after hitting small waves wouldn't be explained by a leak only. + +Did you run the Yamaha Diagnostic (YDS) tool? I'm surprised that you receive a warning light on the dash but no error codes can be read by YDS. The fact that you get the warning light at the same time the issue starts occurring (which is triggered by the hull bumping around a bit) points more towards an electrical issue. + +Also, have you tested the ECM itself? The service manual will tell you how to do that (i.e. what the output peak voltage spec is). The warning light comes from the ECM, and when you plug in YDS, it should tell you why it signaled the warning light. If it's not giving a code, then maybe the ECM is just damaged.","Sorry, should have said get engine to TDC No 1 rocking" +"Hi folks, I’ve was pointed in the direction of this forum in hope of fixing a long term engine problem I’ve been having. It’s stumped myself and 2 mechanics for the last 2 years and I’m finding myself at a bit of a loss. The following is as detailed an outline of the problem well as some theories and solutions we have already tried. All input welcome!. + +Engine: +Yamaha 150 4 stroke which bought new with this zeppelin rib in 2009. + +No previous issues, serviced and winterized yearly. + +Fuel system: +The boat has an Internal fuel tank. The fuel line runs short distance up from tank connection to fuel filter in the console. From fuel filter the fuel line continues the length of the boat back to engine and into its internal smaller fuel filter as normal. There is also a hand primer bulb in console. All a very standard setup. + +So... now to describe the problem: +The engine starts perfectly and gets up to full speed on flat water with no problems. On flat to small choppy conditions everything is 100% perfect. + +The problem arises as the swell starts to build (only slightly) and the banging this causes begins to increase. I will be cutting through a very small sea state nicely and as it builds just a small bit she will come down from a wave with a slightly bigger bump and instantly the engine will change from it’s nice perfect revs to a chug with a bit of a wobble that can be felt in the wheel. I can keep the throttle at the same position but the engine sound has completely changed to what I would describe as a rumble with an associated vibration. If I increase throttle speed the rumble and vibration or imbalance increase and she is under powered. If I bring the throttle back to neutral the rumbling/vibration decreases with revs but if I again increase power they increase also. + +There is no clear method to fixing this issue on the water but the following have worked. 1) turn her off for a few seconds and restart. This doesn’t always work as the problem can still be there upon restart. 2) after trying a restart drive at lower revs and bring up the speed. This some times works some times doesn’t. + +When doing number 2 above and driving at say 40% on the throttle (noting she is vibrating and under powered) she can suddenly kick in to being perfect again for a few seconds, then back to a wobble, then back to perfect on and off until the issue clears and she’s back to running smooth.. until the next wave of the right size. + +One thing to note, when I say swell above I mean very small swell or even large wind chop. Just enough to get a bang vibration through the hull. + +An engine fault does show by means of a slow flashing engine symbol which seems to flash every 5 seconds. + +We ran engine diagnostics live while engaging the problem and it showed no faults but did indicate that the engine could be entering “guardian mode” + +Another thing I’ve noticed. When this issue kicks in and I return the throttle to neutral and there is still a wobble in the engine the idle revs seems smooth when I rise them. + +What we have tried so far: +Theory 1) injectors: +The first mechanic removed injectors and cleaned and reinstalled them but the fix didn’t seem to do much if anything. All in all we have tried this 4 times over the years and while it might seem like it had some effect at first the problem soon returns. + +Theory 2) bad spark plugs, loose filters, fuel line issues: +All of these have been changed and checked multiple times except the fuel line we haven’t run a new one. No dirt or water has shown up in any of the filters. The fuel tank does have a second outlet for a second engine, I changed the fuel lines to this and the problem was the exact same. + +Theory 3) Apricots or loose debris in the fuel tank. I had trouble with this theory for 2 reasons. Firstly, if I bring the boat up to say 75% speed and then kink the fuel line by the tank, there is no effect on the engine for some time as it stall has all the fuel in the lines as well as the fuel filters etc. If something is suddenly stirring in the tank I can’t see how it would have an instant effect on the engine as this problem kicks in instantly. My second issue is that no debris of any kind has ever shown up in the filters. I will try and test an external tank this week just to be sure. + +Theory 4) electrics. +I was told that a bad connection in my isolater switch could be causing the issue which engages from the bang of a swell. I bypassed the switch and the problem continued as normal. + +Other theories) +Air entering fuel line. +Wiring loom problem. + +There have been periods where this issue was worse. During this times it would be there from the moment you start the engine and with an even more notable imbalance and associated chugging sound. Other times it’s more resilient and takes a bigger bang to engage the issue. + +There really isn’t much rhyme or Rhythm to it. Just the fact that a small bang to the boat which she has always handled no problem now causes this issue. + +Any help, theories or thoughts with this would be greatly appreciated. It’s been plaguing my now for 2 years and I don’t know what else to do. The boat is seems so close to being perfect, I just need to solve this issue. + +Please add any follow up questions below. + +Thanks for reading,",The cavitation plate in the range 1 inch lower with boat transom.,The cavitation plate in the range 1 inch lower with boat transom.,Post a picture of the exact part you are looking for. +"2005 200 hp Yamaha +The pumps shot. +Are there any aftermarket pumps? +The owner can't afford the 170$ and is looking for an alternative. +He's retired and life on a fixed income is hard on him. + +If that can't be found? then what are the steps for removing the oil injection? + +SX200TXRD 6E5-81900-01-00Pump in the tank. + +I removed it from the tank. +I hooked power direct to the motor and nothing. +Been in salt water for a LONG time. + +Thanks, Jerry","Just curious...what's the oil level in the main reservior? If level is in between the 2 level lines then oil will not transfer, unless the manual switch is toggled. If pump is shot a replacement option is finding a used one online like craigslist/ebay or a marine surplus store.","Just curious...what's the oil level in the main reservior? If level is in between the 2 level lines then oil will not transfer, unless the manual switch is toggled. If pump is shot a replacement option is finding a used one online like craigslist/ebay or a marine surplus store.","The first thing to check is that you had the right oil/fuel mix. +Then i would move onto making sure the cooling water is getting round the engine and is producing the tell tale. +As mentioned above, also pull the thermosensors out and check that they are all as they should be. +to be honest chances are that it is just electrical seeing as you don't even have to be running for this issue to occur." +"2005 200 hp Yamaha +The pumps shot. +Are there any aftermarket pumps? +The owner can't afford the 170$ and is looking for an alternative. +He's retired and life on a fixed income is hard on him. + +If that can't be found? then what are the steps for removing the oil injection? + +SX200TXRD 6E5-81900-01-00Pump in the tank. + +I removed it from the tank. +I hooked power direct to the motor and nothing. +Been in salt water for a LONG time. + +Thanks, Jerry",On a fixed income ?---200 HP motor on the boat.-----Just don't run it for a few days and you have the money for the new pump I think.,On a fixed income ?---200 HP motor on the boat.-----Just don't run it for a few days and you have the money for the new pump I think.,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Check spline count and length of driveshaft + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the promt advice. I will check. On a follow up question, so long rigg and short rigg engines of same model have different driveshaft lenghts? + +Cheers" +"I have a 1994 Yamaha 130, model L130TXRS, that suddenly doesn't have reverse. Forward is fine and normal but simply no reverse, doesn't grind or do anything except not go into reverse. The propeller isn't turning at all when put in reverse. I was remiss in not changing the lower unit fluid and the fellow who runs this boat said last week that it ""clunked"" loudly when put in reverse. I hauled it last weekend and removed the lower unit drain plug--no oil but some water. I filled it with gear oil and it seemed fine to me in the test tank but Monday the fellow who runs it said it still ""clunked"" sometimes when put in reverse. Then Wednesday after running it several hours it suddenly had no reverse at all. I assume the reverse gear has gone out but it seems strange to me it doesn't grind or even try to turn the propeller. Am I correct that the reverse gear has gone out? An if so is the thing to do to get a rebuilt lower unit?",Running no oil isn't good. Running with water isn't good. I assume the lower unit needs a rebuild. It will have to come apart for further inspection.,Running no oil isn't good. Running with water isn't good. I assume the lower unit needs a rebuild. It will have to come apart for further inspection.,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Make sure that engine is getting to running temp. If the cyl head water jacket gasket has a rot hole in it, the engine will never get hot and wen you shut it down it will condensate water in the combustion chamber and short the spark plug. + +If it starts and runs and idles initially, unless you have dirt before the float needle in the carb, the carbs are probably not the cause of your problem + +Click to expand... + + +ya engine seems nice and hot, +prity confident the carbs are ok, +just trying to find if it may be a stator problem on the low speed side, +thanks" +"I have a 1994 Yamaha 130, model L130TXRS, that suddenly doesn't have reverse. Forward is fine and normal but simply no reverse, doesn't grind or do anything except not go into reverse. The propeller isn't turning at all when put in reverse. I was remiss in not changing the lower unit fluid and the fellow who runs this boat said last week that it ""clunked"" loudly when put in reverse. I hauled it last weekend and removed the lower unit drain plug--no oil but some water. I filled it with gear oil and it seemed fine to me in the test tank but Monday the fellow who runs it said it still ""clunked"" sometimes when put in reverse. Then Wednesday after running it several hours it suddenly had no reverse at all. I assume the reverse gear has gone out but it seems strange to me it doesn't grind or even try to turn the propeller. Am I correct that the reverse gear has gone out? An if so is the thing to do to get a rebuilt lower unit?","With upper cowling off verify throttle cable is moving to reverse when you move control throttle arm from neutral to reverse. If good, keep in reverse and see what happens when you hand turn prop. If it spins then you've confirmed dog/clutch are not engaging. Btw, you should neve move the control throttle arm into gear when drive shaft is not spinning so run motor on muffs when testing.","With upper cowling off verify throttle cable is moving to reverse when you move control throttle arm from neutral to reverse. If good, keep in reverse and see what happens when you hand turn prop. If it spins then you've confirmed dog/clutch are not engaging. Btw, you should neve move the control throttle arm into gear when drive shaft is not spinning so run motor on muffs when testing.","chawk_man said: + + + + Okay on the Merc Forum. There is a guy on the Honda forum named Jimmy Dixon who is an expert with small Honda outboards. Not sure what he knows about Merc's, but it's worth a try. His e-mail is [email protected]. Tell him CHawk recommended that you contact him. + +Click to expand... + + +OK, I'll contact him. Thanks for your help with this." +"i just finished this and I am getting a lot of water coming out the area where the shift arm comes out of the lower unit and nothing out of the top end. i took it back apart and put the muffs on the lower unit. there is a lot of water escaping from the top of the waterpump housing, where the driveshaft runs through it. there is flow through the water outlet on top of the pump housing as well. it looks like there should be some sort of seal on top of the pump housing, like the alpha units. but the housing is all hard plastic. there is a gap between the impeller cup and the top of the housing but nothing goes there, i looked at the parts breakout andit doesnt show anything. +i sent compressed air up through the water intake tube of the upper unit and i hear air coming through the combustion chamber but there seems to be alot of back pressure when i let go of the trigger. this is a river boat.","Yeah, there should be a rubber seal and a cap that slides in the water outlet hole. Maybe those got stuck to the upper casing or they fell out and you didn't notice. The water pump repair kit should have them, but if you only bought the impeller, you should be able to buy just the seal and the cap. If yamahaonlineparts.com doesn't show them on one of the diagrams, I'd be very surprised.","Yeah, there should be a rubber seal and a cap that slides in the water outlet hole. Maybe those got stuck to the upper casing or they fell out and you didn't notice. The water pump repair kit should have them, but if you only bought the impeller, you should be able to buy just the seal and the cap. If yamahaonlineparts.com doesn't show them on one of the diagrams, I'd be very surprised.","need to know altenator amperage output to provide the correct isolator size, to large will rob you of amperage. if you use a battery switch make sure it is for inboard applications, if out board style is used damage to the altenator will occure if selector switch is turned when engine is running.... if you would like to call a can explain wiring on the phone much easer 850-570-9393 p.s one switch on starten"" battery wont help with charging. if house bank wired permently two problems will occure, shor power charging and isolator circuits cannot be properly wired..." +"i just finished this and I am getting a lot of water coming out the area where the shift arm comes out of the lower unit and nothing out of the top end. i took it back apart and put the muffs on the lower unit. there is a lot of water escaping from the top of the waterpump housing, where the driveshaft runs through it. there is flow through the water outlet on top of the pump housing as well. it looks like there should be some sort of seal on top of the pump housing, like the alpha units. but the housing is all hard plastic. there is a gap between the impeller cup and the top of the housing but nothing goes there, i looked at the parts breakout andit doesnt show anything. +i sent compressed air up through the water intake tube of the upper unit and i hear air coming through the combustion chamber but there seems to be alot of back pressure when i let go of the trigger. this is a river boat.",^^^Agreed. Or when reinstalling LU the mid section water tube did not seat into housing.,^^^Agreed. Or when reinstalling LU the mid section water tube did not seat into housing.,"Hard to say if its fresh or old..... + +Anodes are one of the easier ways to slow down the process....but they typically protect the metal item they are attached to..... + +my guess is there were one or more pieces of metal sitting inside the boat and then some (slightly conductive) water was introduced and that enabled some galvanic action..." +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3",Get the markings from the carburetors. Get the marking from the CDI.,Get the markings from the carburetors. Get the marking from the CDI.,"I don't seem to be able to upload pictures. Took a few that were about 5-6mb, then reduced them to 1.5mb...still won't upload...:-/. I'm not sure why, but the forum does not appear to want to let me load pictures... + +Yamaha V4 115 +It says Engine Family 1YMXM1.731CA +Yamaha Motor Co.,LTD. 6N6-2179X-03" +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3","boscoe said: + + + + Get the markings from the carburetors. Get the marking from the CDI. + +Click to expand... + + +Carb is 6j902 621400-071 77021 + +Not sure on cdi, outboard is on trailer and I can't flip 400 lbs at the moment... Coils are cm61-26","boscoe said: + + + + Get the markings from the carburetors. Get the marking from the CDI. + +Click to expand... + + +Carb is 6j902 621400-071 77021 + +Not sure on cdi, outboard is on trailer and I can't flip 400 lbs at the moment... Coils are cm61-26","Well, I am not really sure that you can actually find this kind of course. The only thing that comes to my mind is the marine technical schools. However, as I know a couple of them have been closed, you won't find exactly what you need in some others." +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3","GLE3 said: + + + + Carb is 6j902 621400-071 77021 + +Not sure on cdi, outboard is on trailer and I can't flip 400 lbs at the moment... Coils are cm61-26 + +Click to expand... + + +Huh? If you can inspect the carburetors without flipping 400 lbs then you can inspect the CDI without flipping 400 lbs. Whatever that means. + +Looks like you looked at the center carburetors only. 6J9 carburetors were used on the 1986 ~ 1989 Pro V 150 models. -02 on the center pair and -03 on the top and bottom pair. The 1990 Pro V 150 model used a different part number.","GLE3 said: + + + + Carb is 6j902 621400-071 77021 + +Not sure on cdi, outboard is on trailer and I can't flip 400 lbs at the moment... Coils are cm61-26 + +Click to expand... + + +Huh? If you can inspect the carburetors without flipping 400 lbs then you can inspect the CDI without flipping 400 lbs. Whatever that means. + +Looks like you looked at the center carburetors only. 6J9 carburetors were used on the 1986 ~ 1989 Pro V 150 models. -02 on the center pair and -03 on the top and bottom pair. The 1990 Pro V 150 model used a different part number.","Sorry, most carburetor "" problems "" turn out to be something else !" +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3","Maybe I'm all washed up here but based on what I see and exploded parts diagrams the cdi is on the starboard side of the engine, the side that it's laying on. I got the carb stamp from the very top of the carb closest to the flywheel...","Maybe I'm all washed up here but based on what I see and exploded parts diagrams the cdi is on the starboard side of the engine, the side that it's laying on. I got the carb stamp from the very top of the carb closest to the flywheel...",just a 305 chevy with a circulation pump in stock location +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3",I did not realize that the motor was laying on its side. Makes sense now. But I don't think it would be that big of a deal to roll it over.,I did not realize that the motor was laying on its side. Makes sense now. But I don't think it would be that big of a deal to roll it over.,"Got everything on order, +thanks for the info Chris; + +Bob" +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3","boscoe said: + + + + I did not realize that the motor was laying on its side. Makes sense now. But I don't think it would be that big of a deal to roll it over. + +Click to expand... + + +If I was able to, would the CDI give me a specific year between 86 and 89 or closer to a specific model number? Looking at various 150 hp yamaha parts diagrams around those years the CDI looks like the same part number..","boscoe said: + + + + I did not realize that the motor was laying on its side. Makes sense now. But I don't think it would be that big of a deal to roll it over. + +Click to expand... + + +If I was able to, would the CDI give me a specific year between 86 and 89 or closer to a specific model number? Looking at various 150 hp yamaha parts diagrams around those years the CDI looks like the same part number..","Ayuh,.... There 3 Bert 26s in the marina I hang out at,... +1 of 'em is owned by the guy I work for, another by his Brother that owns the dockage, +'n the 3rd by their best friend, that owns the marina,... + +I think yer confused 'bout the motors,... +The I-6s are the Merc 165s,... +The 470 is a Merc redheaded step-child that did 'bout 170 hp,... +The 135 hp motors were the I-4 Chevys,.... +2 of the 3 boats above are I-6, 165 hp twins with MC-1 drives,... +The 3rd is twin Honda outboards,.... 250s I think,... +All are 'round '79 vintage, from somewhere in Michigan, 'bout 4 or 5 years ago,.... + +I've been fightin' the fuel tank of Eric's, the fiberglass delaminated, 'n played 'ell with the fuel systems,.... +I cut it outa the hull earlier this year,... +Hopin' for a new aluminum tank in the spring,... then back through the fuel pumps, 'n carbs,... + +If yer 5.0l is makin' 330 hp, it's probably way over built for a reliable boat motor, with wet exhaust,..." +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3","The 86 ~ 89 Pro V150's used the same CDI part number. I would suspect that the 86 thru 89 models are all but identical. For practical purposes any different part numbers would not matter. You can go and open the Yamaha parts catalogs for all four years and determine if and when there are any part number differences. + +Why do you feel the need to know the specific year? If you get to the specific year are you going to want to know the specific month in which the motor was made? The motor left Yamaha with a sticker that indicated the month and year of manufacture. Keep in mind that even though it was a specific model year motor it might have been made in the previous year. Just like you can buy a 2019 automobile that was made in 2018.","The 86 ~ 89 Pro V150's used the same CDI part number. I would suspect that the 86 thru 89 models are all but identical. For practical purposes any different part numbers would not matter. You can go and open the Yamaha parts catalogs for all four years and determine if and when there are any part number differences. + +Why do you feel the need to know the specific year? If you get to the specific year are you going to want to know the specific month in which the motor was made? The motor left Yamaha with a sticker that indicated the month and year of manufacture. Keep in mind that even though it was a specific model year motor it might have been made in the previous year. Just like you can buy a 2019 automobile that was made in 2018.",More than likely you will be tearing that lower unit apart. +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3","boscoe said: + + + + The 86 ~ 89 Pro V150's used the same CDI part number. I would suspect that the 86 thru 89 models are all but identical. For practical purposes any different part numbers would not matter. You can go and open the Yamaha parts catalogs for all four years and determine if and when there are any part number differences. + +Why do you feel the need to know the specific year? If you get to the specific year are you going to want to know the specific month in which the motor was made? The motor left Yamaha with a sticker that indicated the month and year of manufacture. Keep in mind that even though it was a specific model year motor it might have been made in the previous year. Just like you can buy a 2019 automobile that was made in 2018. + +Click to expand... + + +Not crazy important, but if I get this running the ad I write up with an 86, 87, 88 or 89 150 pro v won't look quite as s3xy... Sure wouldn't be the first ad I would look at if I were buying...","boscoe said: + + + + The 86 ~ 89 Pro V150's used the same CDI part number. I would suspect that the 86 thru 89 models are all but identical. For practical purposes any different part numbers would not matter. You can go and open the Yamaha parts catalogs for all four years and determine if and when there are any part number differences. + +Why do you feel the need to know the specific year? If you get to the specific year are you going to want to know the specific month in which the motor was made? The motor left Yamaha with a sticker that indicated the month and year of manufacture. Keep in mind that even though it was a specific model year motor it might have been made in the previous year. Just like you can buy a 2019 automobile that was made in 2018. + +Click to expand... + + +Not crazy important, but if I get this running the ad I write up with an 86, 87, 88 or 89 150 pro v won't look quite as s3xy... Sure wouldn't be the first ad I would look at if I were buying...","Ayuh,.... You've got a johnson outboard problem,.... + +Not a boat wirin' problem,.... + +Take yer question to the johnson outboard forum,...." +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3","Might be somewhat difficult to sell a motor with the serial number, model identity and month/year of manufacture stickers missing. Makes folks suspicious. + +Did you look at the block for the decal with some numbers on it? If that is gone it gets more suspicious. Some hanky panky going on.","Might be somewhat difficult to sell a motor with the serial number, model identity and month/year of manufacture stickers missing. Makes folks suspicious. + +Did you look at the block for the decal with some numbers on it? If that is gone it gets more suspicious. Some hanky panky going on.",Thanks for all the additional info your responses are providing +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3","Ok, found what I think is the serial number. Metal stamped on a coin shaped 'plug' on the powerhead. Reads 305200. When I do a lookup on Yamaha's site, it sends me to a 115HP 4 cylinder model.. Guessing there is more to the serial number that I am missing?","Ok, found what I think is the serial number. Metal stamped on a coin shaped 'plug' on the powerhead. Reads 305200. When I do a lookup on Yamaha's site, it sends me to a 115HP 4 cylinder model.. Guessing there is more to the serial number that I am missing?","Agree with Boscoe....its got to be the pickup but more likely the anti-siphon valve. Before going through effort of accessing the tank, hook up a portable fuel tank to motor and run at WOT (or a milk jug lol). Assuming the result is no fuel starvation, remove anti-siphon valve as Boscoe noted. + +If you also informed the service shop that the primer was going flat then I kinda feel like they took advantage of the situation....as a flat primer bulb implies a restriction – not a pump failure, sour fuel/water separator, gummed up carbs, and/or deteriorating fuel lines. Just my opinion of course." +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3","1988 model year motor. 6J9 prefix. Same as stamped on the carburetors. + +Complete identity is 6J9L 305200. + +A 115 would have a different prefix.","1988 model year motor. 6J9 prefix. Same as stamped on the carburetors. + +Complete identity is 6J9L 305200. + +A 115 would have a different prefix.","what kind of repairs? electrical, hull?" +"Picked up what I think is a 1990 150 proV that I hope I can get running or will part out. Outboard looks a whole bunch like this guy(only with some of the raised cowl decals busted off): + + + + + + + +Anyway, I see no stickers on the transom mount anywhere. Got any ideas on how I can find a model and/or a year for it? It does have a stamp on the top carb, would that help? Any help appreciated. + +GLE3",Thanks Boscoe!,Thanks Boscoe!,check fuel pump diaphgram +"Hi we have bought a rebuilt engine yam 70 2002 2 stroke and its got an issue. +When starting the engine you have to push the timing lever back to full retard position and it starts great. If you use throttle on remote it revs but doesnt slow down back to idle you have to push timing lever back to full retard position and it slows it down. +Its like the throttle is not returning fully I put all new genuine parts in cables, ends, new remote etc. Cables in correct grooves. If i put the shorter cable end on throttle cable ( the one for gear select) I get about two turns on it only and still have to stretch it to hook it onto thtottle linkage but it looks like it returns properly. +Any thoughts really appreciated thanks Chris.","I think you asked about this on the other forum. Check out the link I posted there for the CDI/throttle adjustment procedure: + +https://imgur.com/a/CZPu3u9 + +Again, that's for a 1999 70 hp, so it might not be correct.. but it seems to be the same push-to-open throttle CDI that I assume yours has.","I think you asked about this on the other forum. Check out the link I posted there for the CDI/throttle adjustment procedure: + +https://imgur.com/a/CZPu3u9 + +Again, that's for a 1999 70 hp, so it might not be correct.. but it seems to be the same push-to-open throttle CDI that I assume yours has.","I can't bring it back to them.. I don't trust them , and they are 3h away. They charged $200 to get rid of 5 gallon old gas from the tank, and they didn't even clean the gas tank. That type of mechanic shop they are. The cost of CDI cost less than $400 online btw.. I was able to fire up the cylinder 1 and 3 now, so it is running under load. My local mechanic looking in to it today. Will know more by end of the day." +"Hi we have bought a rebuilt engine yam 70 2002 2 stroke and its got an issue. +When starting the engine you have to push the timing lever back to full retard position and it starts great. If you use throttle on remote it revs but doesnt slow down back to idle you have to push timing lever back to full retard position and it slows it down. +Its like the throttle is not returning fully I put all new genuine parts in cables, ends, new remote etc. Cables in correct grooves. If i put the shorter cable end on throttle cable ( the one for gear select) I get about two turns on it only and still have to stretch it to hook it onto thtottle linkage but it looks like it returns properly. +Any thoughts really appreciated thanks Chris.","rejesterd said: + + + + I think you asked about this on the other forum. Check out the link I posted there for the CDI/throttle adjustment procedure: + +https://imgur.com/a/CZPu3u9 + +Again, that's for a 1999 70 hp, so it might not be correct.. but it seems to be the same push-to-open throttle CDI that I assume yours has. + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah I saw that thanks so much.,it all measures correct. I ended up making a cable end 10mm shorter and seems to have ""fixed"" it. Ill check timing when i can borrow a timing light and then lake test it. Just odd as im sure its the right part. Is there anything in the remote you can adjust to remote take up slack? Theres a spot at half throttle where there is alot of play and no action from cable. I had to change it from a pull to push type.","rejesterd said: + + + + I think you asked about this on the other forum. Check out the link I posted there for the CDI/throttle adjustment procedure: + +https://imgur.com/a/CZPu3u9 + +Again, that's for a 1999 70 hp, so it might not be correct.. but it seems to be the same push-to-open throttle CDI that I assume yours has. + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah I saw that thanks so much.,it all measures correct. I ended up making a cable end 10mm shorter and seems to have ""fixed"" it. Ill check timing when i can borrow a timing light and then lake test it. Just odd as im sure its the right part. Is there anything in the remote you can adjust to remote take up slack? Theres a spot at half throttle where there is alot of play and no action from cable. I had to change it from a pull to push type.","Dahoff89 said: + + + + I thank you very much for the response. Yesterday afternoon I took my lower unit to my boat guy and as soon as he walked up to it and got to look at the impeller he told me that it was shot. I proceeded to tell him that I had just put it on less than a week ago and that the engine had been barely run do to it still not cooling properly. Once he pulled the impeller off the shaft to inspect it he asked me where I got it from which, I told him I got it off Amazon as a kit. He proceeded to tell me how the impeller I got was junk and got me a Sierra impeller he had in stock. I went home and put it all back together and Wallah everything was working just as it should. Engine still running great, cooling system running all well again with lukewarm water coming out The Tell Tale and a nice strong stream. So if anyone is reading this after purchasing a water pump kit online that is not a Sierra brand or Genuine Yamaha parts don't try to save a couple bucks because everything else is garbage and will cause you headaches. + +Click to expand... + + +Very good. + +Good to know that my next impeller change doesn't have to be the expensive Yamaha OEM kit. I used a Sierra oil filter, but hadn't tried their impeller yet." +"Hi we have bought a rebuilt engine yam 70 2002 2 stroke and its got an issue. +When starting the engine you have to push the timing lever back to full retard position and it starts great. If you use throttle on remote it revs but doesnt slow down back to idle you have to push timing lever back to full retard position and it slows it down. +Its like the throttle is not returning fully I put all new genuine parts in cables, ends, new remote etc. Cables in correct grooves. If i put the shorter cable end on throttle cable ( the one for gear select) I get about two turns on it only and still have to stretch it to hook it onto thtottle linkage but it looks like it returns properly. +Any thoughts really appreciated thanks Chris.","Your guess is probably better than mine at this point. I've fiddled with the linkage a lot, but not the cables in the control box.","Your guess is probably better than mine at this point. I've fiddled with the linkage a lot, but not the cables in the control box.",These dings aren't very big. I was reading an article about using auto paint pens. Anybody have experience with these? They might not be very durable. We don't walk on cars. +"They did not reset the engine service light on my 2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke after the 100 hour service. +Does anyone know how to do it without taking the boat back to the dealer? +Thanks","Are you referring to a light, an icon or some sort of message? + +What type of tachometer is it?","Are you referring to a light, an icon or some sort of message? + +What type of tachometer is it?","Ayuh,.... Odds are, if ya fix what you got, ya don't need P/S.... + +What's the Issue you think P/S is gonna fix,..??" +"They did not reset the engine service light on my 2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke after the 100 hour service. +Does anyone know how to do it without taking the boat back to the dealer? +Thanks","It is an icon of an engine ( not flashing) +round tach gauge which is above the rotund +speed gauge with gas gauge +2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke +Thanks","It is an icon of an engine ( not flashing) +round tach gauge which is above the rotund +speed gauge with gas gauge +2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke +Thanks","racerone said: + + + + ???-----Will spark jump a gap of 1 cm yes or no ? + +Click to expand... + + +so my mate said its deffinatly jumping that far m8" +"They did not reset the engine service light on my 2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke after the 100 hour service. +Does anyone know how to do it without taking the boat back to the dealer? +Thanks",Does it look like this?,Does it look like this?,"boscoe said: + + + + In a Z250TXRD the brains of the motor is called an engine control module. ECM. Aka an ECU. It controls the automatic transfer of the oil from the remote tank to the main tank. Same thing that a CDI assembly does in other Yamaha models. + +Did you find your problem? + +Click to expand... + +no hadn't had much time to fool with it going to try to get to it today +might be a dumb question but on the e/switch and the float switch it controls the negative to the transfer motor, shouldn't there be a positive on the brown wire all the time ?" +"They did not reset the engine service light on my 2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke after the 100 hour service. +Does anyone know how to do it without taking the boat back to the dealer? +Thanks",The service reminder is usually a set of numbers that are flashing above 100. When reset the numbers go away until another 100 hours time has been recorded.,The service reminder is usually a set of numbers that are flashing above 100. When reset the numbers go away until another 100 hours time has been recorded.,"teambk said: + + + + Very cool. How specific are these tanks? Or kinda like how now most of the stuff on the shelves mostly works on most stuff 'these days'?! type of match? +I'll definitely be watching more now! +We're trying get away from all these digital addictions and enjoy the free society that we still have left, ya know?!! +Thanx for the quick response! Trying to get everything we need now, while we can! + +Click to expand... + + +Johnson and Evinrude tanks are the same, I had a couple of these back when I was a kid in the previous century. I ran the daylights out of a cream puff of a 1956 10 hp Johnson. + +I hope you make all the connections you need to get everything squared away, no thanks required, we are all in it together. + +My favorite quote from 1908; Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." +"They did not reset the engine service light on my 2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke after the 100 hour service. +Does anyone know how to do it without taking the boat back to the dealer? +Thanks","Kliner said: + + + + They did not reset the engine service light on my 2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke after the 100 hour service. +Does anyone know how to do it without taking the boat back to the dealer? +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +You mean the check engine blink? + +You can setting on the tachometer to reset the maintenance hour","Kliner said: + + + + They did not reset the engine service light on my 2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke after the 100 hour service. +Does anyone know how to do it without taking the boat back to the dealer? +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +You mean the check engine blink? + +You can setting on the tachometer to reset the maintenance hour","FYI: We see more issues with the pumps with integral float switches. +IMO, you are better off with a separate float switch, and one that is mounted at a higher elevation than the pump's lowest draw-down ability. +We want the float switch to be able to ""open"" the contacts and shut the pump off. + +If this is a Main Bilge Pump, and if you moore the boat, be sure that the float switch's power is ""Un-Interruptible""." +"They did not reset the engine service light on my 2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke after the 100 hour service. +Does anyone know how to do it without taking the boat back to the dealer? +Thanks","This symbol to remind you that the engine reached the time to maintenance likes replace the engine oil, fuel filter, gear oil, at 100 hours operated","This symbol to remind you that the engine reached the time to maintenance likes replace the engine oil, fuel filter, gear oil, at 100 hours operated","Pull the cowling and pull the fuel line that attaches to the bottom of the fuel rail that feeds the 4 injectors. Have someone stand back there with a mason jar or something holding that fuel line inside the jar. Key the ignition to the run (not start position) several times and and see if you get a 2-3 second blast of fuel out of that fuel line with each turn of the key to the run position... That turns on the HP fuel pump to build pressure before starting. If you get those strong continuous 2-3 second shots of fuel, you're getting fuel to the rail. If you lack a fuel pressure gage, have someone hold their thumb over that line tight and key it again (wearing eye protection)... should be able to tell if it is building some good fuel pressure. + + +If you've been running ethanol-blended gas and it is old, high RPM and vibration has a way of breaking lose lots of gum in the system in the engine and clogging the VST filter and the little filters in the fuel injectors. You can youtube ""DIY fuel injector cleaning""... Pull them, get a 12V power source to connect to them one by one.. You'll hear them ""click"" open when you attach the power to each one and while each is clicked open with power attached to it you can ""back-blow"" carb cleaner through them and blow out any gum/crap that may be clogging them. + +With regard to running a 4-stoke at WOT, I just don't do it. These aren't the old 2-strokes that can run WOT all day long. Lots of moving parts in these 4-strokes are really humming at 6,000 RPM." +"I bought a Lund boat with twin 40 hp as the factory setup. The first thing I did was purchase the service manual. Then, I cleaned the carbs serviced the lower unit with new impeller kit and seals, replaced aged fuel lines, and serviced the electric trim as the fluid looked awful. They run great with great, even compression on all cylinders in both engines. + +My only problem is that I can't get one of the engines to send a tach signal to the dashboard tach. If i switch plugs, I can get the other outboard to work on the other tach, so I know it is from the motor to the control. + +While I think I do a pretty good job on the mechanical stuff, I never studied electrical and am really stumped as to where to begin. I figure that if I test the wrong thing or unplug something and try to run it, I could probably wreck something in the system. I can run with it the way it is, but when both are running, with my hearing, the tach is going to be the best way for me to see if something is going wrong before it totally quits. + +Can anyone help direct me to a particular place to check? I have checked every connection on the engine and verified that they are connected tightly. + +Thanks, in advance, for any and all help.","The green wire from what Yamaha calls the ""lighting"" coil is used to provide the tachometer RPM signal. There are several connectors along the way from the lighting coil to the green wire that is in the ten pin harness. The connections in the ten pin connector as well. The connections from the control box to the tachometer. I would inspect all of those connections. Plus the wiring itself. + +You can see these connection points in the Yamaha service manual. One diagram for the engine connections and one diagram for the instrumentation.","The green wire from what Yamaha calls the ""lighting"" coil is used to provide the tachometer RPM signal. There are several connectors along the way from the lighting coil to the green wire that is in the ten pin harness. The connections in the ten pin connector as well. The connections from the control box to the tachometer. I would inspect all of those connections. Plus the wiring itself. + +You can see these connection points in the Yamaha service manual. One diagram for the engine connections and one diagram for the instrumentation.","Without disassembling the motor and inspecting/measuring a number of parts I don't see how anyone can give assurances that nothing else has been damaged. + +Oh wait, salesmen at used car lots do it a lot. I see them all of the time being sued on Judge Judy for selling crap stuff. She normally rules in favor of the salesman on the basis that he sold the plaintiff a product on an ""as is"" basis, with no warranty. Buyer beware is what she says." +"I bought a Lund boat with twin 40 hp as the factory setup. The first thing I did was purchase the service manual. Then, I cleaned the carbs serviced the lower unit with new impeller kit and seals, replaced aged fuel lines, and serviced the electric trim as the fluid looked awful. They run great with great, even compression on all cylinders in both engines. + +My only problem is that I can't get one of the engines to send a tach signal to the dashboard tach. If i switch plugs, I can get the other outboard to work on the other tach, so I know it is from the motor to the control. + +While I think I do a pretty good job on the mechanical stuff, I never studied electrical and am really stumped as to where to begin. I figure that if I test the wrong thing or unplug something and try to run it, I could probably wreck something in the system. I can run with it the way it is, but when both are running, with my hearing, the tach is going to be the best way for me to see if something is going wrong before it totally quits. + +Can anyone help direct me to a particular place to check? I have checked every connection on the engine and verified that they are connected tightly. + +Thanks, in advance, for any and all help.","boscoe said: + + + + The green wire from what Yamaha calls the ""lighting"" coil is used to provide the tachometer RPM signal. There are several connectors along the way from the lighting coil to the green wire that is in the ten pin harness. The connections in the ten pin connector as well. The connections from the control box to the tachometer. I would inspect all of those connections. Plus the wiring itself. + +You can see these connection points in the Yamaha service manual. One diagram for the engine connections and one diagram for the instrumentation. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you, boscoe! That is help I was looking for. I will work on it tomorrow.","boscoe said: + + + + The green wire from what Yamaha calls the ""lighting"" coil is used to provide the tachometer RPM signal. There are several connectors along the way from the lighting coil to the green wire that is in the ten pin harness. The connections in the ten pin connector as well. The connections from the control box to the tachometer. I would inspect all of those connections. Plus the wiring itself. + +You can see these connection points in the Yamaha service manual. One diagram for the engine connections and one diagram for the instrumentation. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you, boscoe! That is help I was looking for. I will work on it tomorrow.","Update again. With motor cold, sprayed some gas oil mixture into both carbs, choked, hit starter, fired right up." +"I bought a Lund boat with twin 40 hp as the factory setup. The first thing I did was purchase the service manual. Then, I cleaned the carbs serviced the lower unit with new impeller kit and seals, replaced aged fuel lines, and serviced the electric trim as the fluid looked awful. They run great with great, even compression on all cylinders in both engines. + +My only problem is that I can't get one of the engines to send a tach signal to the dashboard tach. If i switch plugs, I can get the other outboard to work on the other tach, so I know it is from the motor to the control. + +While I think I do a pretty good job on the mechanical stuff, I never studied electrical and am really stumped as to where to begin. I figure that if I test the wrong thing or unplug something and try to run it, I could probably wreck something in the system. I can run with it the way it is, but when both are running, with my hearing, the tach is going to be the best way for me to see if something is going wrong before it totally quits. + +Can anyone help direct me to a particular place to check? I have checked every connection on the engine and verified that they are connected tightly. + +Thanks, in advance, for any and all help.","boscoe said: + + + + The green wire from what Yamaha calls the ""lighting"" coil is used to provide the tachometer RPM signal. There are several connectors along the way from the lighting coil to the green wire that is in the ten pin harness. The connections in the ten pin connector as well. The connections from the control box to the tachometer. I would inspect all of those connections. Plus the wiring itself. + +You can see these connection points in the Yamaha service manual. One diagram for the engine connections and one diagram for the instrumentation. + +Click to expand... + + + +I got to checking the wiring all the way back to the lighting coils. One benefit of having both engines is I have readings and connections to compare to. +I ended up at the coil itself. The lighting coil tests open for ohms. Is the only purpose of the lighting coil to run the tach? It doesn't look like too hard of a job to replace. + +Brad","boscoe said: + + + + The green wire from what Yamaha calls the ""lighting"" coil is used to provide the tachometer RPM signal. There are several connectors along the way from the lighting coil to the green wire that is in the ten pin harness. The connections in the ten pin connector as well. The connections from the control box to the tachometer. I would inspect all of those connections. Plus the wiring itself. + +You can see these connection points in the Yamaha service manual. One diagram for the engine connections and one diagram for the instrumentation. + +Click to expand... + + + +I got to checking the wiring all the way back to the lighting coils. One benefit of having both engines is I have readings and connections to compare to. +I ended up at the coil itself. The lighting coil tests open for ohms. Is the only purpose of the lighting coil to run the tach? It doesn't look like too hard of a job to replace. + +Brad","You can make a temporary plug,cork,whittle a wooden one,till u purchase the proper one" +"I bought a Lund boat with twin 40 hp as the factory setup. The first thing I did was purchase the service manual. Then, I cleaned the carbs serviced the lower unit with new impeller kit and seals, replaced aged fuel lines, and serviced the electric trim as the fluid looked awful. They run great with great, even compression on all cylinders in both engines. + +My only problem is that I can't get one of the engines to send a tach signal to the dashboard tach. If i switch plugs, I can get the other outboard to work on the other tach, so I know it is from the motor to the control. + +While I think I do a pretty good job on the mechanical stuff, I never studied electrical and am really stumped as to where to begin. I figure that if I test the wrong thing or unplug something and try to run it, I could probably wreck something in the system. I can run with it the way it is, but when both are running, with my hearing, the tach is going to be the best way for me to see if something is going wrong before it totally quits. + +Can anyone help direct me to a particular place to check? I have checked every connection on the engine and verified that they are connected tightly. + +Thanks, in advance, for any and all help.","The main purpose of the lighting coil is to generate electricity to recharge a battery. Or to illuminate lights. Via a rectifier. Or on some motors to power devices on the motor. + +If your lighting coil is open then I suspect that there is 0 voltage output on your rectifier.","The main purpose of the lighting coil is to generate electricity to recharge a battery. Or to illuminate lights. Via a rectifier. Or on some motors to power devices on the motor. + +If your lighting coil is open then I suspect that there is 0 voltage output on your rectifier.","Skimmons said: + + + + Quick question, have you tried taking the thermostat out and seeing if it works then? also when you replaced the impeller did you make sure all the broken pieces (if any) were accounted for? I know I had to use needlenose pliers and a piece of wire to get all the broken pieces from the tube. Some engines have a screen where the water pick up is..you can remove it to ensure the passage to the impeller is clear. Good luck! + +Click to expand... + + + +I did try running it with out the t-stat and had the same results- no water pumping and when I took the head cover off to replace the stat the water passages were dry (and hot!) + +My problem must be the pump but with the new kit installed and the fact that it did pump for a few minutes, I'm at a loss. I guess the last resort is to buy another impeller/pump kit and try that. I keep thinking it must be something obvious and simple that I'm over looking but after taking it apart and reassembling it a half a dozen times it's really not that complicated." +"I bought a Lund boat with twin 40 hp as the factory setup. The first thing I did was purchase the service manual. Then, I cleaned the carbs serviced the lower unit with new impeller kit and seals, replaced aged fuel lines, and serviced the electric trim as the fluid looked awful. They run great with great, even compression on all cylinders in both engines. + +My only problem is that I can't get one of the engines to send a tach signal to the dashboard tach. If i switch plugs, I can get the other outboard to work on the other tach, so I know it is from the motor to the control. + +While I think I do a pretty good job on the mechanical stuff, I never studied electrical and am really stumped as to where to begin. I figure that if I test the wrong thing or unplug something and try to run it, I could probably wreck something in the system. I can run with it the way it is, but when both are running, with my hearing, the tach is going to be the best way for me to see if something is going wrong before it totally quits. + +Can anyone help direct me to a particular place to check? I have checked every connection on the engine and verified that they are connected tightly. + +Thanks, in advance, for any and all help.","boscoe said: + + + + The main purpose of the lighting coil is to generate electricity to recharge a battery. Or to illuminate lights. Via a rectifier. Or on some motors to power devices on the motor. + +If your lighting coil is open then I suspect that there is 0 voltage output on your rectifier. + +Click to expand... + + +I assume, then, that all I need to do is replace the lighting coil and the tach should work? I have not used this boat yet as I purchased it after boating season last year. It is very possible it was not charging the battery, but the last owner hadn't used it for a year due to health issues. + +It isn't important to solving the problem, but, is it correct to say that the one wire that runs to the tach is counting crankshaft rotations and the other two wires are running to the rectifier for charging/running lights? I just want to see if I understand this part of the system. + +Brad","boscoe said: + + + + The main purpose of the lighting coil is to generate electricity to recharge a battery. Or to illuminate lights. Via a rectifier. Or on some motors to power devices on the motor. + +If your lighting coil is open then I suspect that there is 0 voltage output on your rectifier. + +Click to expand... + + +I assume, then, that all I need to do is replace the lighting coil and the tach should work? I have not used this boat yet as I purchased it after boating season last year. It is very possible it was not charging the battery, but the last owner hadn't used it for a year due to health issues. + +It isn't important to solving the problem, but, is it correct to say that the one wire that runs to the tach is counting crankshaft rotations and the other two wires are running to the rectifier for charging/running lights? I just want to see if I understand this part of the system. + +Brad","I was thinking I might do that. I'll just shrinkwrap it or extend the tarp around it. + +Thanks!" +"I bought a Lund boat with twin 40 hp as the factory setup. The first thing I did was purchase the service manual. Then, I cleaned the carbs serviced the lower unit with new impeller kit and seals, replaced aged fuel lines, and serviced the electric trim as the fluid looked awful. They run great with great, even compression on all cylinders in both engines. + +My only problem is that I can't get one of the engines to send a tach signal to the dashboard tach. If i switch plugs, I can get the other outboard to work on the other tach, so I know it is from the motor to the control. + +While I think I do a pretty good job on the mechanical stuff, I never studied electrical and am really stumped as to where to begin. I figure that if I test the wrong thing or unplug something and try to run it, I could probably wreck something in the system. I can run with it the way it is, but when both are running, with my hearing, the tach is going to be the best way for me to see if something is going wrong before it totally quits. + +Can anyone help direct me to a particular place to check? I have checked every connection on the engine and verified that they are connected tightly. + +Thanks, in advance, for any and all help.","Two green wires from the lighting coil. Both to the rectifier. One of the green wires is jumpered to another green wire that connects to the ten pin harness. The green wire in the ten pin harness runs to the helm. It connects to another green wire that runs to the tachometer. + +The lighting coil creates AC electricity. AC is converted to DC by the rectifier. The tachometer is measuring the cycles in the AC and converting it to RPM.","Two green wires from the lighting coil. Both to the rectifier. One of the green wires is jumpered to another green wire that connects to the ten pin harness. The green wire in the ten pin harness runs to the helm. It connects to another green wire that runs to the tachometer. + +The lighting coil creates AC electricity. AC is converted to DC by the rectifier. The tachometer is measuring the cycles in the AC and converting it to RPM.","racerone said: + + + + Put head on with a new gasket and run it another 20 years. + +Click to expand... + + Will try that. Thanks" +"I bought a Lund boat with twin 40 hp as the factory setup. The first thing I did was purchase the service manual. Then, I cleaned the carbs serviced the lower unit with new impeller kit and seals, replaced aged fuel lines, and serviced the electric trim as the fluid looked awful. They run great with great, even compression on all cylinders in both engines. + +My only problem is that I can't get one of the engines to send a tach signal to the dashboard tach. If i switch plugs, I can get the other outboard to work on the other tach, so I know it is from the motor to the control. + +While I think I do a pretty good job on the mechanical stuff, I never studied electrical and am really stumped as to where to begin. I figure that if I test the wrong thing or unplug something and try to run it, I could probably wreck something in the system. I can run with it the way it is, but when both are running, with my hearing, the tach is going to be the best way for me to see if something is going wrong before it totally quits. + +Can anyone help direct me to a particular place to check? I have checked every connection on the engine and verified that they are connected tightly. + +Thanks, in advance, for any and all help.","boscoe said: + + + + Two green wires from the lighting coil. Both to the rectifier. One of the green wires is jumpered to another green wire that connects to the ten pin harness. The green wire in the ten pin harness runs to the helm. It connects to another green wire that runs to the tachometer. + +The lighting coil creates AC electricity. AC is converted to DC by the rectifier. The tachometer is measuring the cycles in the AC and converting it to RPM. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. It was kind of the way I was thinking. Thanks for the lesson. Guys like you are very much appreciated on sites like this. + +Brad","boscoe said: + + + + Two green wires from the lighting coil. Both to the rectifier. One of the green wires is jumpered to another green wire that connects to the ten pin harness. The green wire in the ten pin harness runs to the helm. It connects to another green wire that runs to the tachometer. + +The lighting coil creates AC electricity. AC is converted to DC by the rectifier. The tachometer is measuring the cycles in the AC and converting it to RPM. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. It was kind of the way I was thinking. Thanks for the lesson. Guys like you are very much appreciated on sites like this. + +Brad",Yes. Water exits the lower unit in multiple locations. +I recently purchased a used Yamaha F115LB with 72 Hours. When I looked close at the area in between the lower unit and where it connects to the vertical portion of the motor I noticed that a small black tube looked frayed from the two stainless ground straps - can anyone tell me what the function of that hose is? Motor is under warranty - is it something serious I should have repaired before running engine? Any help appreciated!,It's just the speedometer hose. It should be replaced and perhaps positioned differently so the wires don't scrape against it. But it's nothing serious.,It's just the speedometer hose. It should be replaced and perhaps positioned differently so the wires don't scrape against it. But it's nothing serious.,Can you tell me where it is +I recently purchased a used Yamaha F115LB with 72 Hours. When I looked close at the area in between the lower unit and where it connects to the vertical portion of the motor I noticed that a small black tube looked frayed from the two stainless ground straps - can anyone tell me what the function of that hose is? Motor is under warranty - is it something serious I should have repaired before running engine? Any help appreciated!,Thanks! Is that relatively easy to replace or would it be best to have a dealer do it? Cost??,Thanks! Is that relatively easy to replace or would it be best to have a dealer do it? Cost??,"Yamaha did indeed manufacture the Mariner line of outboard motors. For Mercury Marine. Mercury Marine sold the motors and provided the applicable data to support the model. The parts catalog and the service manual for instance. Mercury Marine may or may not still be able to provide a service manual for your motor. + +Yamaha USA did not come into being until 1984 here in the USA. They would have no data or information whatsoever with respect to a 1982 model year Mariner motor. + +Now if one believes (not unreasonable to do so IMO) that a 1982 Mariner 9.9 is the equivalent of a Yamaha 1984 9.9 then the Yamaha service manual for that model could very well apply to your Mariner motor. The Yamaha SM is available from most any Yamaha dealer. You can view the Yamaha 1984 9.9 parts book for free to see to what extent it looks like your motor. + +The chances of anyone having both SM's, so that one could be compared to the other, are probably not as good as winning Powerball. I lost again last night. Thought sure that I was gonna win." +I recently purchased a used Yamaha F115LB with 72 Hours. When I looked close at the area in between the lower unit and where it connects to the vertical portion of the motor I noticed that a small black tube looked frayed from the two stainless ground straps - can anyone tell me what the function of that hose is? Motor is under warranty - is it something serious I should have repaired before running engine? Any help appreciated!,"In this case, I would talk to the dealer you bought it from and tell them they should fix it for free. The hose itself is probably $10 and it would take them probably 20-30 minutes. I would request they do it for free is because hose shouldn't be damaged after only 72 hours. I can't tell exactly what's wrong from the picture, but I would guess it wasn't installed/positioned properly to begin with.. and the dealer is supposed to check all that stuff before delivering it to you. For reference, my 2011 F50 has about 360 hours and that hose isn't frayed at all. + +If they don't fix it for free, it's a relatively easy job to do yourself. However, you have to drop the lower unit so you can disconnect that end of the hose. The other end should be reachable without having to remove anything, but dropping the lower unit does require a socket wrench and probably a buddy to help hold it up when you take the bolts off. + +If you plan on doing the basic maintenance yourself going forward, then dropping the lower unit is something you'll want to learn how to do anyway. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to drop the lower unit on Yamahas (just search for something like ""yamaha impeller change""). I would just watch a couple and decide if you're comfortable doing it. The worst thing that generally happens when people do it the first time is the shift shaft gets misaligned and it won't go into forward or reverse gear. But that's easily fixed by manually turning the shaft and reinstalling it. + +The other thing is, how long can you stand the boat being out of the water? The dealer might agree to fix it for free, but you might be 30th in line as far as other jobs they're working on.. so it might take a few weeks before you get it back.","In this case, I would talk to the dealer you bought it from and tell them they should fix it for free. The hose itself is probably $10 and it would take them probably 20-30 minutes. I would request they do it for free is because hose shouldn't be damaged after only 72 hours. I can't tell exactly what's wrong from the picture, but I would guess it wasn't installed/positioned properly to begin with.. and the dealer is supposed to check all that stuff before delivering it to you. For reference, my 2011 F50 has about 360 hours and that hose isn't frayed at all. + +If they don't fix it for free, it's a relatively easy job to do yourself. However, you have to drop the lower unit so you can disconnect that end of the hose. The other end should be reachable without having to remove anything, but dropping the lower unit does require a socket wrench and probably a buddy to help hold it up when you take the bolts off. + +If you plan on doing the basic maintenance yourself going forward, then dropping the lower unit is something you'll want to learn how to do anyway. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to drop the lower unit on Yamahas (just search for something like ""yamaha impeller change""). I would just watch a couple and decide if you're comfortable doing it. The worst thing that generally happens when people do it the first time is the shift shaft gets misaligned and it won't go into forward or reverse gear. But that's easily fixed by manually turning the shaft and reinstalling it. + +The other thing is, how long can you stand the boat being out of the water? The dealer might agree to fix it for free, but you might be 30th in line as far as other jobs they're working on.. so it might take a few weeks before you get it back.","boscoe said: + + + + All those words. Yet the most important are missing. + +What is the model of the motor? There are over 10 different versions of a Yamaha four stroke 9.9 HP motor. Here in just the USA alone. + +There are models with no lighting coils. There are models with lighting coils but no rectifier or rectifier/regulator. There are models with lighting coils but only a rectifier. There are models with lighting coils and a rectifier/regulator. + +Click to expand... + + + +about 330 hours on a T9.9EXHA sn 6G8X790779 the schematic for this engine shows three leads from two coils marked ""lighting coils"" running to the rectifier/regulator. +note ... +the issue I've had is that if I motor for a few hours the engine quits charging ... the autopillot runs the batteries down (I single hand my boat) and at some voltage the autopilot also shuts down... when I', motoring the batteries should of course get topped off .. so I'd like to fix this issue. I could modifybthe rectifier regulator if that was possible to get an unregulated current - I just found a used rectifier regulator from a 1994 yamaha 9.9 ,,, perhapsyou are saying that I can't interchange these ... but the part numbers for them are the same.. ... luckily most of the time I am sailing and the solar panel keeps the batt. up. But I do not run both the solar panel and the engine at the same time because of the batt. charging issues... sohave this motoring issue." +I recently purchased a used Yamaha F115LB with 72 Hours. When I looked close at the area in between the lower unit and where it connects to the vertical portion of the motor I noticed that a small black tube looked frayed from the two stainless ground straps - can anyone tell me what the function of that hose is? Motor is under warranty - is it something serious I should have repaired before running engine? Any help appreciated!,Thank you so much! Appreciate your help!,Thank you so much! Appreciate your help!,"After the hellacious journey that was removing that cotter pin, I found out why. The broken part of the bracket is stuck on the shift shaft. + +Any insight here? Or do I need to keep working it with a big flat blade until it comes loose?" +"Hi, + +Just got this 1986 Yamaha 115hp 2 strokes 115ETLJ. I am going through it right now and I have a question about mixture setting. +I do not have a 1986 Yamaha manual but my 1990 and 1993 manuals have 5/8 of a turn for mixture setting. +However when I cleaned the carbs the mixture was set at 1 1/4 turn for all the mixture screws... + +If someone could confirm what the appropriate setting would be, I would appreciate very much. + +Thank you. + +F","I'm not sure of the exact setting. But did you run it before you took it apart? Did it run well? + +Maybe someone here may have the preset. But if not. + +Set them all at 1 turn out. Then if you can run it under load . Just above idle in gear. You can set the mixture. Start with one carb. Try 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time. Listen to the motor. You want to get the highest rpm possible. If it's too rich it will bog. If it's too lean it will bog. Once you set the first carb. Move to the next one. When you think they are set properly. You may have to adjust the idle. +Make sure you have someone drive the boat or tie it off at the dock. Or if you have a big enough container that will hold the water in gear without splashing out +If for some.e reason it will not start cold. Set mixture to 1 1/4- 1 1/2. Then work from there","I'm not sure of the exact setting. But did you run it before you took it apart? Did it run well? + +Maybe someone here may have the preset. But if not. + +Set them all at 1 turn out. Then if you can run it under load . Just above idle in gear. You can set the mixture. Start with one carb. Try 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time. Listen to the motor. You want to get the highest rpm possible. If it's too rich it will bog. If it's too lean it will bog. Once you set the first carb. Move to the next one. When you think they are set properly. You may have to adjust the idle. +Make sure you have someone drive the boat or tie it off at the dock. Or if you have a big enough container that will hold the water in gear without splashing out +If for some.e reason it will not start cold. Set mixture to 1 1/4- 1 1/2. Then work from there",the wire going to the sender could be grounded...i would put a meter on it and if it reads ground i would cut it a couple inches from where it goes into the compartment with the tank...i would want to eliminate the fact that the problem may is under the dash or etc...you can always re solder the wire.... +"Hi, + +Just got this 1986 Yamaha 115hp 2 strokes 115ETLJ. I am going through it right now and I have a question about mixture setting. +I do not have a 1986 Yamaha manual but my 1990 and 1993 manuals have 5/8 of a turn for mixture setting. +However when I cleaned the carbs the mixture was set at 1 1/4 turn for all the mixture screws... + +If someone could confirm what the appropriate setting would be, I would appreciate very much. + +Thank you. + +F","mechanicman said: + + + + I'm not sure of the exact setting. But did you run it before you took it apart? Did it run well? + +Maybe someone here may have the preset. But if not. + +Set them all at 1 turn out. Then if you can run it under load . Just above idle in gear. You can set the mixture. Start with one carb. Try 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time. Listen to the motor. You want to get the highest rpm possible. If it's too rich it will bog. If it's too lean it will bog. Once you set the first carb. Move to the next one. When you think they are set properly. You may have to adjust the idle. +Make sure you have someone drive the boat or tie it off at the dock. Or if you have a big enough container that will hold the water in gear without splashing out +If for some.e reason it will not start cold. Set mixture to 1 1/4- 1 1/2. Then work from there + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. The carbs were so dirty I didn't even try to start it before a good clean up. + +I'll try that.. + +F","mechanicman said: + + + + I'm not sure of the exact setting. But did you run it before you took it apart? Did it run well? + +Maybe someone here may have the preset. But if not. + +Set them all at 1 turn out. Then if you can run it under load . Just above idle in gear. You can set the mixture. Start with one carb. Try 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time. Listen to the motor. You want to get the highest rpm possible. If it's too rich it will bog. If it's too lean it will bog. Once you set the first carb. Move to the next one. When you think they are set properly. You may have to adjust the idle. +Make sure you have someone drive the boat or tie it off at the dock. Or if you have a big enough container that will hold the water in gear without splashing out +If for some.e reason it will not start cold. Set mixture to 1 1/4- 1 1/2. Then work from there + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. The carbs were so dirty I didn't even try to start it before a good clean up. + +I'll try that.. + +F","Thanks deepsea21 for all the info . I checked the fuel bulb and replaced the main filters like you said but no help..Thinking about how it cuts out ( shuts down ) when I advance out of gear made me think it was something else. So I looked more into the shift position switch. Also thanks Chris for the heads up where it was. To make a long story short I went ahead and changed it . It now starts up and when advanced the throttle out of gear it does not shut down. Haven't checked it out on open water yet but I'm sure it will check out. Yea I know we all heard that before . I will post how it will check out tomorrow ,going off shore for some tuna." +"Hi, + +Just got this 1986 Yamaha 115hp 2 strokes 115ETLJ. I am going through it right now and I have a question about mixture setting. +I do not have a 1986 Yamaha manual but my 1990 and 1993 manuals have 5/8 of a turn for mixture setting. +However when I cleaned the carbs the mixture was set at 1 1/4 turn for all the mixture screws... + +If someone could confirm what the appropriate setting would be, I would appreciate very much. + +Thank you. + +F",The base setting is 5/8ths turn outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 1/4 turn.,The base setting is 5/8ths turn outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 1/4 turn.,"My problem unfortunately isn't the screws. I've had these 2 carbs apart probably 5 times thinking there was crap plugging passages. I've had both of them completely apart and dipped in carb gunk and another time completely apart and cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaning tank. + +Thanks for the thought though, keep them coming. + +Mike" +"Hi, + +Just got this 1986 Yamaha 115hp 2 strokes 115ETLJ. I am going through it right now and I have a question about mixture setting. +I do not have a 1986 Yamaha manual but my 1990 and 1993 manuals have 5/8 of a turn for mixture setting. +However when I cleaned the carbs the mixture was set at 1 1/4 turn for all the mixture screws... + +If someone could confirm what the appropriate setting would be, I would appreciate very much. + +Thank you. + +F","boscoe said: + + + + The base setting is 5/8ths turn outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 1/4 turn. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you!","boscoe said: + + + + The base setting is 5/8ths turn outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 1/4 turn. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you!",Size your photo down to 1mb & it will load +"Hi, + +Just got this 1986 Yamaha 115hp 2 strokes 115ETLJ. I am going through it right now and I have a question about mixture setting. +I do not have a 1986 Yamaha manual but my 1990 and 1993 manuals have 5/8 of a turn for mixture setting. +However when I cleaned the carbs the mixture was set at 1 1/4 turn for all the mixture screws... + +If someone could confirm what the appropriate setting would be, I would appreciate very much. + +Thank you. + +F","Quick update: + +I finally got the yamaha manual for my 1986 , 115HP EJTL. +Yamaha is sating 2 1/4 turn out from lightly seated for the air/fuel mixture screws. + +Odd that 5/8 is what yamaha recommends for subsequent years.. + +Just wanted to let you know, in case someone needs info one day. + +Engine is running very well..","Quick update: + +I finally got the yamaha manual for my 1986 , 115HP EJTL. +Yamaha is sating 2 1/4 turn out from lightly seated for the air/fuel mixture screws. + +Odd that 5/8 is what yamaha recommends for subsequent years.. + +Just wanted to let you know, in case someone needs info one day. + +Engine is running very well..","Well, + +I figured this was ""One of those"" problems and now that it has received 56 views without so much as a 'You might check this"" answer, I guess I was right. + +I'm going to take it to a dealer tomorrow and see if they can figure it out. + +Roger B" +"Hello all, +this is my first post. I have the yds software and also a repair Manuel for this motor. My question is how common would it be for both injector modules in this motor would be bad. Reason I am asking is I have went through one end to the other and found my injectors would not function with the stationary test one bit ( I also bought a new set of injectors and installed them with having the same issues)I have checked grounds and wires. Basically everything is pointing from what I can tell back to the modules. I do have fuel all the way to the injectors. The motor will spin over but won’t crank but I can spray a little gas in the breather and it will fire and run till the fumes/fuel runs out. What would be a good way to test the modules. Thanks in advance.","So the engine can be started with fuel sprayed into the air intake, but it doesn't remain running. Also, the YDS stationary injector test fails for all injectors. I wouldn't suspect both injector drivers failed independently. If the repair manual doesn't tell you how to test them, it might still give the spec on output peak voltage (which you can measure while cranking it). + +When you turn the key to the On position, can you hear the fuel pump whirr and prime the system? If the stationary injector test fails for all injectors and you don't hear the fuel pump turn on, I would suspect a bad relay, fuse or wiring harness. I'm not sure how the fuses are grouped on your engine, but the manual should tell you. On my little F50, I have one fuse that groups the ECM, ignition coil, electric fuel pump, fuel injector, idle speed control, and the vapor separator. If your ignition coils and injectors are on the same fuse, then I would say that's not your problem (though you can check it for continuity anyway), because the engine wouldn't fire up when spraying fuel into the air intake if the ignition coil wasn't getting power. So in that case, I'd move on to checking the fuel pump relay(s). Then the wiring harness. + +If all that looks good, then I would test the output peak voltage of the ECM and the pulser coil. The manual should have steps/specs for that.","So the engine can be started with fuel sprayed into the air intake, but it doesn't remain running. Also, the YDS stationary injector test fails for all injectors. I wouldn't suspect both injector drivers failed independently. If the repair manual doesn't tell you how to test them, it might still give the spec on output peak voltage (which you can measure while cranking it). + +When you turn the key to the On position, can you hear the fuel pump whirr and prime the system? If the stationary injector test fails for all injectors and you don't hear the fuel pump turn on, I would suspect a bad relay, fuse or wiring harness. I'm not sure how the fuses are grouped on your engine, but the manual should tell you. On my little F50, I have one fuse that groups the ECM, ignition coil, electric fuel pump, fuel injector, idle speed control, and the vapor separator. If your ignition coils and injectors are on the same fuse, then I would say that's not your problem (though you can check it for continuity anyway), because the engine wouldn't fire up when spraying fuel into the air intake if the ignition coil wasn't getting power. So in that case, I'd move on to checking the fuel pump relay(s). Then the wiring harness. + +If all that looks good, then I would test the output peak voltage of the ECM and the pulser coil. The manual should have steps/specs for that.","The question of whether spark jumps a gap of 3/8"" has not been answered yet ?" +"Hello all, +this is my first post. I have the yds software and also a repair Manuel for this motor. My question is how common would it be for both injector modules in this motor would be bad. Reason I am asking is I have went through one end to the other and found my injectors would not function with the stationary test one bit ( I also bought a new set of injectors and installed them with having the same issues)I have checked grounds and wires. Basically everything is pointing from what I can tell back to the modules. I do have fuel all the way to the injectors. The motor will spin over but won’t crank but I can spray a little gas in the breather and it will fire and run till the fumes/fuel runs out. What would be a good way to test the modules. Thanks in advance.",Thanks for the info. The fuel pump does kick on and supply fuel. But I will check the pulsed coil,Thanks for the info. The fuel pump does kick on and supply fuel. But I will check the pulsed coil,Try pumping primer bulb while she's running +What is the standard engine temperature and the water flow pressure on the T60TL Yamaha 4 cycle,"The service manual will tell you the temperature specs, but mine doesn't give details on cooling water flow pressure. On my F50, the fully-open temperature for the thermostat is 158F. So it's expected to run at least 158F. + +The way to confirm if the water pump is pumping water properly is to fast-idle it and look at the exit stream. If it's not stiff and strong, that means you have an issue with the impeller or a blockage in the cooling lines. + +Again, the thermostat is cheap to replace. But really, I suspect the impeller or something about the water pump assembly is not right. What part number did you buy?","The service manual will tell you the temperature specs, but mine doesn't give details on cooling water flow pressure. On my F50, the fully-open temperature for the thermostat is 158F. So it's expected to run at least 158F. + +The way to confirm if the water pump is pumping water properly is to fast-idle it and look at the exit stream. If it's not stiff and strong, that means you have an issue with the impeller or a blockage in the cooling lines. + +Again, the thermostat is cheap to replace. But really, I suspect the impeller or something about the water pump assembly is not right. What part number did you buy?","Get a BEP/MARINCO dual engine 3 battery switch and follow the diagrams. Its a KISS principle switch, 2 start batteries and one house battery. Start batteries always stay charged and you can parallel all the batteries if need be. Blue sea acr is a good system. ACR and VSR systems allow proper charging of all batteries due to the house battery usually being deep cycle and of a larger amp hr." +What is the standard engine temperature and the water flow pressure on the T60TL Yamaha 4 cycle,"Also, after re-reading your original post, I think the steam you're seeing could possibly be a blown head gasket. So you might just want to check compression before doing anything else. If you have a blown head gasket, typically 2 or more adjacent cylinders will have significantly lower pressure.","Also, after re-reading your original post, I think the steam you're seeing could possibly be a blown head gasket. So you might just want to check compression before doing anything else. If you have a blown head gasket, typically 2 or more adjacent cylinders will have significantly lower pressure.","Wanna help him - tell him DON'T. + +Vacuum advance equipped units are not MARINE rated. Best solution if to get a marine rated unit and go from there. + +Most units with the vacuumm advance also have the springs and weights on the inside." +"Couple issues recently popped up. The motor is a 98 200 vmax. Less than 6 hours on a new powerhead. Recently rewired the boat. Running on my driveway the tach worked fine. The day I put it in the water, the tach didn't work and the boat isn't making power. Really sluggish to get up. If I had to guess it only made 3500 rpm maybe. when running the volt meter dropped hard when I hit the trim. I cleaned the carbs, changed the plugs, no help. Changed the stator and the pulser coil. Still no signal on the tach wire. I wont be able to but it on the water till Monday. I'm feeling these problems are related. I have a rectifier to change next. Any help would be appreciated.","I would guess both issues are related to the rewiring that was done. Sounds like it went into limp mode. But I think that voltage drop when you hit the trim is normal. + +Get the service manual from yamahapubs.com if you don't have it, because it will give you all the specs on peak output voltage for the stator and all the rest. Also, start from the place where you know it's not working (that tach) and go backwards from there with the multimeter. Go all the way to the computer, which could just be fried at this point.","I would guess both issues are related to the rewiring that was done. Sounds like it went into limp mode. But I think that voltage drop when you hit the trim is normal. + +Get the service manual from yamahapubs.com if you don't have it, because it will give you all the specs on peak output voltage for the stator and all the rest. Also, start from the place where you know it's not working (that tach) and go backwards from there with the multimeter. Go all the way to the computer, which could just be fried at this point.",tried starts dies i put my choke starts first turn and then adjust and goes to fast idle. warm up or put in gear no biggy. +"Couple issues recently popped up. The motor is a 98 200 vmax. Less than 6 hours on a new powerhead. Recently rewired the boat. Running on my driveway the tach worked fine. The day I put it in the water, the tach didn't work and the boat isn't making power. Really sluggish to get up. If I had to guess it only made 3500 rpm maybe. when running the volt meter dropped hard when I hit the trim. I cleaned the carbs, changed the plugs, no help. Changed the stator and the pulser coil. Still no signal on the tach wire. I wont be able to but it on the water till Monday. I'm feeling these problems are related. I have a rectifier to change next. Any help would be appreciated.",Bare with me man but what part of the rewire could be causing the issue? You think it's something that may still be wired incorrectly or something got shorted in the process and put the motor in limp mode? I didn't go in to the engine side of the harness just everything in the console. The situation gets more difficult. The boat was originally rigged for a mercury. At some point the previous owner put the Yamaha on it and cut the Yamaha plug off and spliced into the merc harness.,Bare with me man but what part of the rewire could be causing the issue? You think it's something that may still be wired incorrectly or something got shorted in the process and put the motor in limp mode? I didn't go in to the engine side of the harness just everything in the console. The situation gets more difficult. The boat was originally rigged for a mercury. At some point the previous owner put the Yamaha on it and cut the Yamaha plug off and spliced into the merc harness.,"racerone said: + + + + Your location in Canada ?-----No local dealer ? + +Click to expand... + + +When one is disgusted with obtaining information from a Yamaha US dealer (or Yamaha USA the distributor) try and get information from Yamaha Canada. It all won't seem so bad." +"Couple issues recently popped up. The motor is a 98 200 vmax. Less than 6 hours on a new powerhead. Recently rewired the boat. Running on my driveway the tach worked fine. The day I put it in the water, the tach didn't work and the boat isn't making power. Really sluggish to get up. If I had to guess it only made 3500 rpm maybe. when running the volt meter dropped hard when I hit the trim. I cleaned the carbs, changed the plugs, no help. Changed the stator and the pulser coil. Still no signal on the tach wire. I wont be able to but it on the water till Monday. I'm feeling these problems are related. I have a rectifier to change next. Any help would be appreciated.","I'm just saying the issue seems to be electrical. It would be a strange coincidence if the issues with the tach and the low rpms were separate, unrelated things.. especially considering all the things you've already replaced that would be related to ignition or fuel delivery issues.","I'm just saying the issue seems to be electrical. It would be a strange coincidence if the issues with the tach and the low rpms were separate, unrelated things.. especially considering all the things you've already replaced that would be related to ignition or fuel delivery issues.","No. In the video I was turning the prop and you could hear it ""ticking"". Didn't help that I could tell." +"Couple issues recently popped up. The motor is a 98 200 vmax. Less than 6 hours on a new powerhead. Recently rewired the boat. Running on my driveway the tach worked fine. The day I put it in the water, the tach didn't work and the boat isn't making power. Really sluggish to get up. If I had to guess it only made 3500 rpm maybe. when running the volt meter dropped hard when I hit the trim. I cleaned the carbs, changed the plugs, no help. Changed the stator and the pulser coil. Still no signal on the tach wire. I wont be able to but it on the water till Monday. I'm feeling these problems are related. I have a rectifier to change next. Any help would be appreciated.",Changed the rectifier today. Still no tach. It's gonna be in the wiring. Im gonna change the harness from the plug forward tomorrow.,Changed the rectifier today. Still no tach. It's gonna be in the wiring. Im gonna change the harness from the plug forward tomorrow.,Thanks. I'm taking the boat to my Yamaha tech next week and I'll copy him on your post. +"Hey, +i have a 2 Stroke Yamaha 75 hp. Is it possible tp repower it with 90 hp 2 stroke carbs? +The Powerhead seems to be the same for both. +Thanks.","What model 75? P75, C75, E75 or ???? + +What model 90? 90 or C90? + +Usually it is more than just the carburetors.","What model 75? P75, C75, E75 or ???? + +What model 90? 90 or C90? + +Usually it is more than just the carburetors.","My F150 won't pee on muff's either. I was told by a Yamaha Cert. Tech that this is common with the bigger F Series engine. I do not worry about it at all because at the lake, it pees like it has been out on a weekend of binge drinking." +"Hey, +i have a 2 Stroke Yamaha 75 hp. Is it possible tp repower it with 90 hp 2 stroke carbs? +The Powerhead seems to be the same for both. +Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + What model 75? P75, C75, E75 or ???? + +What model 90? 90 or C90? + +Usually it is more than just the carburetors. + +Click to expand... + + +its a 75AET Model, i think from 1984. +and the 90s carb came from a 1991 90hp model. Definitly not the Autolube version with oiling ports. +i cant recall which model it was. The carbs have the model Code 6H1 on them.","boscoe said: + + + + What model 75? P75, C75, E75 or ???? + +What model 90? 90 or C90? + +Usually it is more than just the carburetors. + +Click to expand... + + +its a 75AET Model, i think from 1984. +and the 90s carb came from a 1991 90hp model. Definitly not the Autolube version with oiling ports. +i cant recall which model it was. The carbs have the model Code 6H1 on them.","I'd go with these stainlees toggles...... +http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=stainless+anchor+bolts&qpvt=stainless+anchor+bolts&FORM=HURE" +I am new to the boating world and had to replace the impeller on a 60hp Yamaha 4 stroke 2010. After I replaced the impeller I noticed there was white smoke/steam coming out of the prop. Should I be concerned? Also the water coming out of the prop was warm. Is this normal? When I touch the bottom of the motor it felt warm as well. Is this a concern. Last question the stream of water coming out of the engine doesn’t seem as strong as it did before I replaced the impeller. Anyone know what would cause this? These are my concerns and would like to hear all the feed back I can before I put my boat back in the water. Thank you in advance.,"?----Are you testing on a hose ?----What are the local atmospheric conditions ?------It is "" cooling "" water that has cooled the motor and the exhaust , so yes when you put your hand there it will be warm !-----Test with boat in the lake.","?----Are you testing on a hose ?----What are the local atmospheric conditions ?------It is "" cooling "" water that has cooled the motor and the exhaust , so yes when you put your hand there it will be warm !-----Test with boat in the lake.","as a rule, no corrosion....but you should make a note in your maintenance log and try to collect them when the bilge get clean. + +the biggest concern I see is they could find their way to the bilge pump float switch and cause some possible interference if it's not shielded..." +I am new to the boating world and had to replace the impeller on a 60hp Yamaha 4 stroke 2010. After I replaced the impeller I noticed there was white smoke/steam coming out of the prop. Should I be concerned? Also the water coming out of the prop was warm. Is this normal? When I touch the bottom of the motor it felt warm as well. Is this a concern. Last question the stream of water coming out of the engine doesn’t seem as strong as it did before I replaced the impeller. Anyone know what would cause this? These are my concerns and would like to hear all the feed back I can before I put my boat back in the water. Thank you in advance.,Yes I am using a hose. The outside temp is 75 degrees,Yes I am using a hose. The outside temp is 75 degrees,"Gregory said: + + + +I have a 2003 Glastron with a 5.0GL-C Volvo Penta motor in it. My Raw Water Pump went out on it and I called a Volva Dealer and he said that it should have a saltwater pump also. Where is this saltwater pump located at on this motor? Is there yet another pump on the outdrive? + Thanks + Greg​ + +Click to expand... + + +Nope,... + +Volvos have an engine mounted Raw water pump(with the rubber impeller), 'n the usual circulating water pump(cast iron/ steel impeller).... + +Really no such thing as a Saltwater pump..." +I am new to the boating world and had to replace the impeller on a 60hp Yamaha 4 stroke 2010. After I replaced the impeller I noticed there was white smoke/steam coming out of the prop. Should I be concerned? Also the water coming out of the prop was warm. Is this normal? When I touch the bottom of the motor it felt warm as well. Is this a concern. Last question the stream of water coming out of the engine doesn’t seem as strong as it did before I replaced the impeller. Anyone know what would cause this? These are my concerns and would like to hear all the feed back I can before I put my boat back in the water. Thank you in advance.,Test boat in the lake.,Test boat in the lake.,"Update. After putting 30 hours, the fuse has not blown. I am a bit superstitious and don't want to jinx anything, but so far so good!" +I am new to the boating world and had to replace the impeller on a 60hp Yamaha 4 stroke 2010. After I replaced the impeller I noticed there was white smoke/steam coming out of the prop. Should I be concerned? Also the water coming out of the prop was warm. Is this normal? When I touch the bottom of the motor it felt warm as well. Is this a concern. Last question the stream of water coming out of the engine doesn’t seem as strong as it did before I replaced the impeller. Anyone know what would cause this? These are my concerns and would like to hear all the feed back I can before I put my boat back in the water. Thank you in advance.,"Ira Alford said: + + + + I am new to the boating world and had to replace the impeller on a 60hp Yamaha 4 stroke 2010. After I replaced the impeller I noticed there was white smoke/steam coming out of the prop. Should I be concerned? Also the water coming out of the prop was warm. Is this normal? When I touch the bottom of the motor it felt warm as well. Is this a concern. Last question the stream of water coming out of the engine doesn’t seem as strong as it did before I replaced the impeller. Anyone know what would cause this? These are my concerns and would like to hear all the feed back I can before I put my boat back in the water. Thank you in advance. + +Click to expand... + + +The stream of water should be at least as strong as before, usually it is noticably stronger especially if the old impeller showed signs of wear or damage, even when running off a hose. OK for water to be warm but it should not be hot, same with engine.","Ira Alford said: + + + + I am new to the boating world and had to replace the impeller on a 60hp Yamaha 4 stroke 2010. After I replaced the impeller I noticed there was white smoke/steam coming out of the prop. Should I be concerned? Also the water coming out of the prop was warm. Is this normal? When I touch the bottom of the motor it felt warm as well. Is this a concern. Last question the stream of water coming out of the engine doesn’t seem as strong as it did before I replaced the impeller. Anyone know what would cause this? These are my concerns and would like to hear all the feed back I can before I put my boat back in the water. Thank you in advance. + +Click to expand... + + +The stream of water should be at least as strong as before, usually it is noticably stronger especially if the old impeller showed signs of wear or damage, even when running off a hose. OK for water to be warm but it should not be hot, same with engine.","Hi KevinJ. +Interesting to say the least, as mentioned above we have had the pinhole welded for now and will look ino the fibreglass coating. A friend has had his boat done recently which I believe was a chellange due to our location, will see what the end result turns out lke. +Cheers." +I am new to the boating world and had to replace the impeller on a 60hp Yamaha 4 stroke 2010. After I replaced the impeller I noticed there was white smoke/steam coming out of the prop. Should I be concerned? Also the water coming out of the prop was warm. Is this normal? When I touch the bottom of the motor it felt warm as well. Is this a concern. Last question the stream of water coming out of the engine doesn’t seem as strong as it did before I replaced the impeller. Anyone know what would cause this? These are my concerns and would like to hear all the feed back I can before I put my boat back in the water. Thank you in advance.,When you installed the new impeller. Did you happen to lube with something like grease as you installed it.? Seen this many times with customers trying to save a buck.,When you installed the new impeller. Did you happen to lube with something like grease as you installed it.? Seen this many times with customers trying to save a buck.,"hey doug, + +I'll share come cracking advice, go post the same answer at http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/ and watch the useful responses flood back at you. + +Thanks +Chris" +"I am doing my 100 hour service, last time I had a mechanic do it and he fogged the motor as part of the service, even though the boat was not being stored for any length of time (live in s Fla, boat more or less always in use). But everything I'm seeing, including the manual, talks about fogging as being something you do only ahead of storage. So is there any benefit to fogging an engine as part of routine maintenance unrelated to long term storage? 2003 90hp 2-stroke Yamaha.","I'm not aware of any benefits other than protection from rust during long-term storage. You're just coating the pistons with oil, basically, and it burns off after you run it the first time after being fogged.","I'm not aware of any benefits other than protection from rust during long-term storage. You're just coating the pistons with oil, basically, and it burns off after you run it the first time after being fogged.",I had hoped the valves would need adjusting but they were actually pretty tight. All intake valves measured 007 or 008 and all the exhaust valves measured 011. Didn't get to do the leak down yet. +I am new here so I hope that I am doing this right. I have a Yamaha T60TLR and after about 4 min. at an idle the heat buzzer goes off and the engine is getting hot. I can see like steam at the motor. Don't have a big stream of water coming out. Well we have changed the pump checked the hose for blockage but still seams to not be getting enough water flow. I could use some advice. Thanks,"Welcome. + +If you increase the idle speed, you should get a good stiff stream of water coming out of the exit, regardless of whether water is actually running through the engine block or not. If you don't have a good stream while fast-idling, that means you either have an issue with the impeller or a blockage in the cooling lines. What year is the engine and which water pump kit did you buy? List the part number. + +Doesn't sound like a thermostat issue or a sensor/computer issue. But replacing the thermostat wouldn't cost much and it would eliminate that as a possible cause.","Welcome. + +If you increase the idle speed, you should get a good stiff stream of water coming out of the exit, regardless of whether water is actually running through the engine block or not. If you don't have a good stream while fast-idling, that means you either have an issue with the impeller or a blockage in the cooling lines. What year is the engine and which water pump kit did you buy? List the part number. + +Doesn't sound like a thermostat issue or a sensor/computer issue. But replacing the thermostat wouldn't cost much and it would eliminate that as a possible cause.","You'd have to rig up a manifold of sorts to provide the T connection while allowing a positive shutoff on the empty tank. + +Then you'd have to mount it.....and then maintain it. + +I'd think the current setup is as simple as it gets - maybe not convenient, but simple." +"Hello + +When I went boating last year I heard a whining noise from the lower unit as I brought down the throttle to about 4000 rpm. my seloc manual says it is excessive backlash causing the problem. I took the lower drive apart and the driveshaft has play up and down (maybe 1mm). what part is worn down and where do I get it? The driveshaft has to go down more, so it cant be the top bearing. I saw some kinda spacer, so I am thinking its that. how do I get it out though? + +Thanks","There is more to it than the driveshaft moving "" up and down ""--------Have you looked at the gear teeth and bearings , yes or no?-----A shop would use shimming tools to put the gears in the correct position.-----And on most motors with gears shimmed correctly there is up and down movement of the driveshaft.","There is more to it than the driveshaft moving "" up and down ""--------Have you looked at the gear teeth and bearings , yes or no?-----A shop would use shimming tools to put the gears in the correct position.-----And on most motors with gears shimmed correctly there is up and down movement of the driveshaft.","Hey, I found this chart that shows codes for motors that are Japanese mariner models. The 663 code is in there which means it could be 1974-1979. see attachment." +"Hello + +When I went boating last year I heard a whining noise from the lower unit as I brought down the throttle to about 4000 rpm. my seloc manual says it is excessive backlash causing the problem. I took the lower drive apart and the driveshaft has play up and down (maybe 1mm). what part is worn down and where do I get it? The driveshaft has to go down more, so it cant be the top bearing. I saw some kinda spacer, so I am thinking its that. how do I get it out though? + +Thanks","Took the whole thing apart... used gear marking compound and the gears seem to be too far apart - not horrible, but it would be better if they were a little closer together. bearings are smooth, or so said the pro mechanic, and I never really had any issues until I must have made them when I replaced the seals and o rings - the whine came in then. the gears don't seem to be too badly worn either. also, will the crankshaft prevent the driveshaft from creeping up? the problem is only when I coast, so since the gears are semi spiraled, when the tourqe is coming from the engine, will it pull the pinion gear down into alignment? there is no bearing to keep it down, only one to keep it up, so I am pretty sure that that is the case. when I coast the tourqe is coming from the prop and its pushing the pinion gear up and creating the excessive backlash - anyways, this is my hypothesis","Took the whole thing apart... used gear marking compound and the gears seem to be too far apart - not horrible, but it would be better if they were a little closer together. bearings are smooth, or so said the pro mechanic, and I never really had any issues until I must have made them when I replaced the seals and o rings - the whine came in then. the gears don't seem to be too badly worn either. also, will the crankshaft prevent the driveshaft from creeping up? the problem is only when I coast, so since the gears are semi spiraled, when the tourqe is coming from the engine, will it pull the pinion gear down into alignment? there is no bearing to keep it down, only one to keep it up, so I am pretty sure that that is the case. when I coast the tourqe is coming from the prop and its pushing the pinion gear up and creating the excessive backlash - anyways, this is my hypothesis","On my (big boat) I run a three battery system. + +A ""starting"" battery for my motor and a pair of deep cycle ""house"" batteries. + +However, in my set-up it's a little more complicated than a simple selector switch. + +In order to ensure that the ""stuff"" you have connected to your ""house"" battery doesn't drain your cranking battery (or vice versa), at minimum, you need to include a battery isolator into the mix. + +An isolator will allow your motors stator/alternator to charge ""all"" the batteries, but will not let them (suck power) from each other. + +My system goes one step further. Instead of a simple isolator I have an ""automatic charging relay"" which senses when one battery is topped up and shifts the charge power to the other batteries, plus keeps them all isolated when starting the motor. + +So depending on how fancy (read how much you want to spend) your options and the solutions change. + +Two similar batteries with a selector switch (which your really shouldn't change the switch while the motor is running - can cause electrical nightmares) is the ""basic"" setup. + +It simply allows you to charge both batteries from the motor and start the motor with one, the other, or both. + +A selector with an isolator - same as above with the added protection of not allowing the needs of one battery to steal from the other. + +Or, the selector with a charge relay - that does intelligent charging plus isolation...." +"Hello + +When I went boating last year I heard a whining noise from the lower unit as I brought down the throttle to about 4000 rpm. my seloc manual says it is excessive backlash causing the problem. I took the lower drive apart and the driveshaft has play up and down (maybe 1mm). what part is worn down and where do I get it? The driveshaft has to go down more, so it cant be the top bearing. I saw some kinda spacer, so I am thinking its that. how do I get it out though? + +Thanks",Did you forget to mention what motor this is ???----Is there a spring loaded pin on the end of the driveshaft?,Did you forget to mention what motor this is ???----Is there a spring loaded pin on the end of the driveshaft?,What is the engine ID of each motor? Begins with the number 6. +"Hello + +When I went boating last year I heard a whining noise from the lower unit as I brought down the throttle to about 4000 rpm. my seloc manual says it is excessive backlash causing the problem. I took the lower drive apart and the driveshaft has play up and down (maybe 1mm). what part is worn down and where do I get it? The driveshaft has to go down more, so it cant be the top bearing. I saw some kinda spacer, so I am thinking its that. how do I get it out though? + +Thanks",When the torque comes from the engine the pinion is PUSHED UP on most motors.----Don't think yours is any different.,When the torque comes from the engine the pinion is PUSHED UP on most motors.----Don't think yours is any different.,"If they are the 'cartridge style', they have 'tabs' that are lifted and then the motor portion is twisted (CW) to remove it from the housing....I can't tell from the pics if those are that type...you could likely call SPX (johnson) and get their tech support dept to send you the install sheet as well as suggest the proper replacement cartridge replacement (if needed)....an alternative would be ranger. + +1 847 671 7867 (SPX) (870) 453-2222 (ranger)" +"Hello + +When I went boating last year I heard a whining noise from the lower unit as I brought down the throttle to about 4000 rpm. my seloc manual says it is excessive backlash causing the problem. I took the lower drive apart and the driveshaft has play up and down (maybe 1mm). what part is worn down and where do I get it? The driveshaft has to go down more, so it cant be the top bearing. I saw some kinda spacer, so I am thinking its that. how do I get it out though? + +Thanks","Hmmm... seems pretty funny to have the pinion pushed up on the motor - why have a bearing then to prevent the driveshaft from going down, and no bearing to prevent it from going up? I don't think Yamaha engineers are that stupid. as for the preload pin, only 90 and up engines have them as far as I know - mine is an 89' 50ELF. anyways, I took out some shim material and after turning the driveshaft while pushing down I got a great gear pattern.","Hmmm... seems pretty funny to have the pinion pushed up on the motor - why have a bearing then to prevent the driveshaft from going down, and no bearing to prevent it from going up? I don't think Yamaha engineers are that stupid. as for the preload pin, only 90 and up engines have them as far as I know - mine is an 89' 50ELF. anyways, I took out some shim material and after turning the driveshaft while pushing down I got a great gear pattern.","Thanks classicAQ.. I'll check that tomorrow. + +I managed to get it running in the driveway again today. Ran it in a bucket, though but fully submerged for about 30 minutes. Ran like a top. + +Took it to the launch.. starts nicely.. then a minute later, sputter and die. + +I noticed it restarted in the water this time.. and I could coax it by pulling the choke. + +However, when I pulled it out, and has on muffs.. it would no longer start in the driveway. M this is a common theme... Does in the water.. and never restarts in the driveway until I start tinkering.. once it's running in driveway, it will run forever until I drop it in the lake." +"Hello + +When I went boating last year I heard a whining noise from the lower unit as I brought down the throttle to about 4000 rpm. my seloc manual says it is excessive backlash causing the problem. I took the lower drive apart and the driveshaft has play up and down (maybe 1mm). what part is worn down and where do I get it? The driveshaft has to go down more, so it cant be the top bearing. I saw some kinda spacer, so I am thinking its that. how do I get it out though? + +Thanks",The model of your motor was not in post # 1------Good luck with your project.,The model of your motor was not in post # 1------Good luck with your project.,Old yamaha motors are still as good as the newer ones if they were looked after .... the 200hp has always been one of my fav ... test the compression it is the only way you will be able to tell what condition it is in .... +"Hello + +When I went boating last year I heard a whining noise from the lower unit as I brought down the throttle to about 4000 rpm. my seloc manual says it is excessive backlash causing the problem. I took the lower drive apart and the driveshaft has play up and down (maybe 1mm). what part is worn down and where do I get it? The driveshaft has to go down more, so it cant be the top bearing. I saw some kinda spacer, so I am thinking its that. how do I get it out though? + +Thanks",thanks,thanks,"racerone said: + + + + I use an adapter on the end of the crankshaft.-------Drill a hole in the skeg for a chain loop.---------then use a hydraulic or similar puller. + +Click to expand... + + +I get having a hole in the skeg and pulling on it if the top end was secured by lifting lugs to something solid. Not sure I understand the adapter for the end of the crankshaft part. + +Thanks" +"I am in the uk and would like to research a early Yamaha 5 HP outboard +model 5A. how do you decode the seil no +where can I get parts from in the UK","5A is the model identity. The motor should also be marked with its primary identification number. It will begin with the number 6. + +If parts are still available you can get them from any Yamaha UK outboard motor dealer.","5A is the model identity. The motor should also be marked with its primary identification number. It will begin with the number 6. + +If parts are still available you can get them from any Yamaha UK outboard motor dealer.","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,..... Actually, a stand-pipe drain is the best,....... + +Otherwise, the bait tries to swim out the drain tube, or with a screen over it, the screen gets clogged with the bait's shed scales,...... + +Click to expand... + + I've decided to use a 40quart w/ a 500GPH this drain in upper side of cooler. +https://www.amazon.com/Marine-ODT-1-DP-Overflow-Drain-Tube/dp/B0000AXQSQ + +I was planning a drain tube (just a tube) near top of cooler, use 800GPH to fill tank then use 500GPH to momentarily recirculate. + +here's the cooler LW" +"I am in the uk and would like to research a early Yamaha 5 HP outboard +model 5A. how do you decode the seil no +where can I get parts from in the UK","boscoe said: + + + + 5A is the model identity. The motor should also be marked with its primary identification number. It will begin with the number 6. + +If parts are still available you can get them from any Yamaha UK outboard motor dealer. + +Click to expand... + + +hello many thanks,engine serial number is 644S 61411,any idea which year this was made","boscoe said: + + + + 5A is the model identity. The motor should also be marked with its primary identification number. It will begin with the number 6. + +If parts are still available you can get them from any Yamaha UK outboard motor dealer. + +Click to expand... + + +hello many thanks,engine serial number is 644S 61411,any idea which year this was made","I have a diesel espar on my 3218 motoryacht that stopped working all of a sudden. Is it common for the fuel pump to give up first? + +Thanks, Jonathan Anderson" +"I am in the uk and would like to research a early Yamaha 5 HP outboard +model 5A. how do you decode the seil no +where can I get parts from in the UK","1973. + +Take a look at any 5 HP Yamaha parts catalog and compare the markings seen on your carburetor. That will give you a clue that you are on the right track. I believe the carburetor will have a 6E0 mark.","1973. + +Take a look at any 5 HP Yamaha parts catalog and compare the markings seen on your carburetor. That will give you a clue that you are on the right track. I believe the carburetor will have a 6E0 mark.","It depends on what type of cooling system you have. If it's a pure raw water cooling system where raw water cools the entire engine, yes, it's a good idea to remove the t-stat before flushing. + +If the engine cooling system uses a heat exchanger where the raw water is pumped in a heat exchanger then that raw water is pushed out through the manifolds and risers, there is no need to fool with the t-stat because the engine coolant, which also runs through the heat exchanger to be cooled should have permanent anti-freeze in it. This type of set up is just like an auto engine, except for having a radiator that is cooled by air flow, it has a heat exchanger cooled by raw water." +"I am in the uk and would like to research a early Yamaha 5 HP outboard +model 5A. how do you decode the seil no +where can I get parts from in the UK","many thanks ,its a journey of discovery, bit like a jigsaw ,the more you know,the easier it gets","many thanks ,its a journey of discovery, bit like a jigsaw ,the more you know,the easier it gets","Here is a direct link to your engines carb. Take a look and reply back with the number part or area of where you see the leak. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/y...uretor/c1-63035?trail=37994,38237,66840,69393" +"I am in the uk and would like to research a early Yamaha 5 HP outboard +model 5A. how do you decode the seil no +where can I get parts from in the UK","Ain't that the truth. When stuff is known it is all so easy. When not known it can seem all but impossible. + +But I love it when thoroughly frustrated, about to give up, and suddenly the light comes on.","Ain't that the truth. When stuff is known it is all so easy. When not known it can seem all but impossible. + +But I love it when thoroughly frustrated, about to give up, and suddenly the light comes on.","Peter - the problem may be difficult to locate. I think the regulator may depend on it's contact with the alternator to supply the ground. Be sure that the mating surfaces are clean, tight, and free of grease. Same goes for the ground wire at the battery and the connections at the alternator. In other words, check each and every connection between the battery, the alternator, and the regulator. If all that fails, pull the alternator and have it checked at an automotive rebuild shop." +"Hi to all, +I have a problem with the above engine. The tachometer and tilt does not register on gauge. The engine starts and runs fine and alarm works correctly. +I dont seem to have any more cables in delivery boxes. Do I have to buy an extra cable to connect to engine. +Any help would be really appreciated. +Cheers,Rob","The tachometer is usually connected via a fused harness to the key switch. For power, ground and the tachometer signal itself. Then another harness is used that connects the tachometer to the motor for the trim information, low oil pressure information and over temperature information. + +Look at the back of the tachometer. Is everything connected or not?","The tachometer is usually connected via a fused harness to the key switch. For power, ground and the tachometer signal itself. Then another harness is used that connects the tachometer to the motor for the trim information, low oil pressure information and over temperature information. + +Look at the back of the tachometer. Is everything connected or not?","ok will try that today ,,will also charge the batteries as they have been exhausted trying to crank it over ,,,thanks again" +"Hi to all, +I have a problem with the above engine. The tachometer and tilt does not register on gauge. The engine starts and runs fine and alarm works correctly. +I dont seem to have any more cables in delivery boxes. Do I have to buy an extra cable to connect to engine. +Any help would be really appreciated. +Cheers,Rob","boscoe said: + + + + The tachometer is usually connected via a fused harness to the key switch. For power, ground and the tachometer signal itself. Then another harness is used that connects the tachometer to the motor for the trim information, low oil pressure information and over temperature information. + +Look at the back of the tachometer. Is everything connected or not? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Boscoe harness is plugged in ok to tacho. I only have one multi lead connected to engine and then to multi hub. +I will take photos today. +Thanks again.","boscoe said: + + + + The tachometer is usually connected via a fused harness to the key switch. For power, ground and the tachometer signal itself. Then another harness is used that connects the tachometer to the motor for the trim information, low oil pressure information and over temperature information. + +Look at the back of the tachometer. Is everything connected or not? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Boscoe harness is plugged in ok to tacho. I only have one multi lead connected to engine and then to multi hub. +I will take photos today. +Thanks again.","So the engine can be started with fuel sprayed into the air intake, but it doesn't remain running. Also, the YDS stationary injector test fails for all injectors. I wouldn't suspect both injector drivers failed independently. If the repair manual doesn't tell you how to test them, it might still give the spec on output peak voltage (which you can measure while cranking it). + +When you turn the key to the On position, can you hear the fuel pump whirr and prime the system? If the stationary injector test fails for all injectors and you don't hear the fuel pump turn on, I would suspect a bad relay, fuse or wiring harness. I'm not sure how the fuses are grouped on your engine, but the manual should tell you. On my little F50, I have one fuse that groups the ECM, ignition coil, electric fuel pump, fuel injector, idle speed control, and the vapor separator. If your ignition coils and injectors are on the same fuse, then I would say that's not your problem (though you can check it for continuity anyway), because the engine wouldn't fire up when spraying fuel into the air intake if the ignition coil wasn't getting power. So in that case, I'd move on to checking the fuel pump relay(s). Then the wiring harness. + +If all that looks good, then I would test the output peak voltage of the ECM and the pulser coil. The manual should have steps/specs for that." +"Hi to all, +I have a problem with the above engine. The tachometer and tilt does not register on gauge. The engine starts and runs fine and alarm works correctly. +I dont seem to have any more cables in delivery boxes. Do I have to buy an extra cable to connect to engine. +Any help would be really appreciated. +Cheers,Rob",I was talking about a conventional Yamaha tachometer. Sounds like you might have a Command Link tachometer since you mention the multi-hub. There are several different wiring configurations that can be used. Usually a harness from the motor to a hub. Power to the hub from the key switch. Harness connecting the tachometer to the hub.,I was talking about a conventional Yamaha tachometer. Sounds like you might have a Command Link tachometer since you mention the multi-hub. There are several different wiring configurations that can be used. Usually a harness from the motor to a hub. Power to the hub from the key switch. Harness connecting the tachometer to the hub.,"Ayuh,.... Any pourable foam I've seen is expanding, not self-leveling,..." +"Hi to all, +I have a problem with the above engine. The tachometer and tilt does not register on gauge. The engine starts and runs fine and alarm works correctly. +I dont seem to have any more cables in delivery boxes. Do I have to buy an extra cable to connect to engine. +Any help would be really appreciated. +Cheers,Rob","boscoe said: + + + + I was talking about a conventional Yamaha tachometer. Sounds like you might have a Command Link tachometer since you mention the multi-hub. There are several different wiring configurations that can be used. Usually a harness from the motor to a hub. Power to the hub from the key switch. Harness connecting the tachometer to the hub. + +Click to expand... + +Please find attached photos. +Photo 1 is harness grey plugs 6Y8-82553-21. 20 FT. ALSO 6Y8-82521-31. 6FT","boscoe said: + + + + I was talking about a conventional Yamaha tachometer. Sounds like you might have a Command Link tachometer since you mention the multi-hub. There are several different wiring configurations that can be used. Usually a harness from the motor to a hub. Power to the hub from the key switch. Harness connecting the tachometer to the hub. + +Click to expand... + +Please find attached photos. +Photo 1 is harness grey plugs 6Y8-82553-21. 20 FT. ALSO 6Y8-82521-31. 6FT","Okay, so the whole reason nothing works, lights/gauges etc, is because the panel has no hot wire leading from the fuse panel to the battery. Where would I hook a hot wire to the fuse panel? I know how to connect to the battery obviously, but where would this go on the fuse box. I'm gonna try and upload a pic of my fuse box to show you what I'm talking about." +"Hi to all, +I have a problem with the above engine. The tachometer and tilt does not register on gauge. The engine starts and runs fine and alarm works correctly. +I dont seem to have any more cables in delivery boxes. Do I have to buy an extra cable to connect to engine. +Any help would be really appreciated. +Cheers,Rob",,,Should I stay with 87 octane or is there an advantage to higher octane. +"Hello everyone I’m a first time poster. I have a 2002 Yamaha 225 V-Max. In the last month I have begun having issues with hard starting. Four or five tries and most of the time the bulb will go flat. Cranks fine at the ramp. The problem seems to start after the motor has warmed up and I fish for thirty minutes or so. Runs excellent when I get it on plane. I have replaced the plugs, water/fuel separator along with the vst and fuel filters. Thanks in advance for any advice with this issue.","Sounds like vapor lock to me. You can try running the engine with the cowling off, and see if the issue still occurs. If it doesn't, then this is probably your issue. I'm not sure how that is best addressed on your engine though.. newer models have a solenoid valve that controls this. You have a pressure regulator, so maybe you can try inspecting/replacing that. Or maybe try adding insulation to the fuel lines that sit near hot engine parts. + +Also make sure your fuel tank is venting properly. Again, you can just flip open the fill port for a minute before you go to restart it when it's warm.. then see if the behavior is different. + +And maybe try replacing the vst needle valve too.","Sounds like vapor lock to me. You can try running the engine with the cowling off, and see if the issue still occurs. If it doesn't, then this is probably your issue. I'm not sure how that is best addressed on your engine though.. newer models have a solenoid valve that controls this. You have a pressure regulator, so maybe you can try inspecting/replacing that. Or maybe try adding insulation to the fuel lines that sit near hot engine parts. + +Also make sure your fuel tank is venting properly. Again, you can just flip open the fill port for a minute before you go to restart it when it's warm.. then see if the behavior is different. + +And maybe try replacing the vst needle valve too.","You can also test the thermoswitch's continuity. The switch is open from room temp up to around 165º, closes thereafter." +"Hello everyone I’m a first time poster. I have a 2002 Yamaha 225 V-Max. In the last month I have begun having issues with hard starting. Four or five tries and most of the time the bulb will go flat. Cranks fine at the ramp. The problem seems to start after the motor has warmed up and I fish for thirty minutes or so. Runs excellent when I get it on plane. I have replaced the plugs, water/fuel separator along with the vst and fuel filters. Thanks in advance for any advice with this issue.",Thanks rejesterd. I will check my vents this afternoon. It just started this a few weeks ago. First I thought it was bad gas but I have emptied both tanks so that doesn't seem to be the problem. Thanks again for the information.,Thanks rejesterd. I will check my vents this afternoon. It just started this a few weeks ago. First I thought it was bad gas but I have emptied both tanks so that doesn't seem to be the problem. Thanks again for the information.,"Another post mentioned that a ""friction screw"" may be part of this remote. According to what I read this screw adjusts engine idle speed. Have no idea how it works but I'm going to take a close look tomorrow and see if there is such a thing. Thanks for your reply" +I just picked up a 50 hp TLR engine that a few little things need attention. The motor cover latch in the rear does not snug down the cover. The latch works but the cover can be raised up like a half inch when it is latched. There are no adjustments that can be made and nothing appears to be bent. I tried to put some bend in the hook but it is really hard and doesnt bend. Can someone tell me what the problem is please?,"There are (or should be) 2 hooks on the cover itself. One in the front and one in the back near the latch. + +https://www.yamahaonlineparts.com/o...743cd6/95cd5d4a-9cd1-4b68-b9dc-ff15038132a7/y + +Maybe you're missing one. The one in the rear is where the lever clamp on the bottom cowling attaches to. + +If you can't see the problem, record a video for us. Sometimes a video will pinpoint the problem.","There are (or should be) 2 hooks on the cover itself. One in the front and one in the back near the latch. + +https://www.yamahaonlineparts.com/o...743cd6/95cd5d4a-9cd1-4b68-b9dc-ff15038132a7/y + +Maybe you're missing one. The one in the rear is where the lever clamp on the bottom cowling attaches to. + +If you can't see the problem, record a video for us. Sometimes a video will pinpoint the problem.",Water off pressure system disolves more air than water in the lake.---All domestic water systems have air dissolved to some extent.------So test it in the lake and see how it behaves. +So my motor was not really shooting water out the pisser very strong so i ordered a new pump and put it in. now i cannot get any water at all and it seems as though i no longer have a neutral position on my motor. I have taken it back apart a few times to check that i did everything right on the pump and it all looks good but it still wont pump.pulled the thermostat to check and i can blow air through the pickup tube and it blows out the stat hole.Help me with some ideas please.,I know you need to adjust the shift rod.----Look at it / see how the threads work---Possible left hand threads.-----I can not see your test set-up but more water in your bucket might help.,I know you need to adjust the shift rod.----Look at it / see how the threads work---Possible left hand threads.-----I can not see your test set-up but more water in your bucket might help.,"bill_w said: + + + + Ok, it looks like the pressure treated gets the nod. Thanks. + +Bill + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... I wouldn't do that,.... +The chemicals used in the current P/T wood will attack, 'n corrode holes in yer aluminum boat.... + +Lotsa conversations 'bout this at the drydock over at iboats..." +So my motor was not really shooting water out the pisser very strong so i ordered a new pump and put it in. now i cannot get any water at all and it seems as though i no longer have a neutral position on my motor. I have taken it back apart a few times to check that i did everything right on the pump and it all looks good but it still wont pump.pulled the thermostat to check and i can blow air through the pickup tube and it blows out the stat hole.Help me with some ideas please.,I was using muffs with a water hose for testing.,I was using muffs with a water hose for testing.,I have replaced the battery cables as of today and checked all connections and I’m still not getting anything. You guys have any more ideas? I read somewhere where someone jumped started the solenoid by jumping 12+ to the brown wire that runs from the solenoid. Is this a good idea? Would this rule out whether or not it is the solenoid? +So my motor was not really shooting water out the pisser very strong so i ordered a new pump and put it in. now i cannot get any water at all and it seems as though i no longer have a neutral position on my motor. I have taken it back apart a few times to check that i did everything right on the pump and it all looks good but it still wont pump.pulled the thermostat to check and i can blow air through the pickup tube and it blows out the stat hole.Help me with some ideas please.,What about the tube going from the lower unit that brings water up to the powerhead.,What about the tube going from the lower unit that brings water up to the powerhead.,"Ayuh,... My guess is,.... ya Don't...." +So my motor was not really shooting water out the pisser very strong so i ordered a new pump and put it in. now i cannot get any water at all and it seems as though i no longer have a neutral position on my motor. I have taken it back apart a few times to check that i did everything right on the pump and it all looks good but it still wont pump.pulled the thermostat to check and i can blow air through the pickup tube and it blows out the stat hole.Help me with some ideas please.,"Motor year/model is helpful. + +No neutral and no water are are not associated w/each other. But if you had neutral prior to dropping LU then you reinstalled LU improperly. If you had water pissing prior to dropping LU amd now you don't after reinstalling LU then you installed the water pump improperly. If you don't have a year/model specific service manual , now is a better time than any. Essential for a DIY'r.","Motor year/model is helpful. + +No neutral and no water are are not associated w/each other. But if you had neutral prior to dropping LU then you reinstalled LU improperly. If you had water pissing prior to dropping LU amd now you don't after reinstalling LU then you installed the water pump improperly. If you don't have a year/model specific service manual , now is a better time than any. Essential for a DIY'r.",If Chris at Dockside can't get you running online... NO ONE CAN! +"I am troubleshooting an issue with my 1998 Yamaha C60tlrw. Starts up every time runs fine in idle and at low RPMs. Im experiencing intermittent power surges when at WOT and higher RPMs. The motor never stalls out completely just seems to be affected under load. Sometimes I can run the boat for hours without experiencing an issue but it is starting to happen with more frequency. i am by no means an expert mechanic but i started with the fuels system. I have cleaned carbs, replaced fuel pump and filter. I have run the engine off an external tank and experienced the same issue so i don't believe the issue is in the fuel tank or the fuel lines. Fuel lines delivering to the carbs appear to be fine with no leaks. Also, since first experiencing the issue i have noticed the my spark plugs are fouling quickly, after probably less the 20 hours (wondering if this could be related). Any insight on where to look next would be greatly appreciated. + +Alex","Check the compression in all cylinders. Considering the engine's age, the plug fouling, and everything you've already checked, that's where I'd be looking. I'm not sure what the spec is for minimum compression on your engine, but if you're getting anything less than 100 psi, I would say it's time to consider a new engine.","Check the compression in all cylinders. Considering the engine's age, the plug fouling, and everything you've already checked, that's where I'd be looking. I'm not sure what the spec is for minimum compression on your engine, but if you're getting anything less than 100 psi, I would say it's time to consider a new engine.","papyson said: + + + +https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+To+Use+A+Multimeter/25632 + +some meters are auto ranging which means you do not have to set a ohms scale...you can probably find instructions for your meter on the web...good luck + +Click to expand... + +thanks will check it out" +"I am troubleshooting an issue with my 1998 Yamaha C60tlrw. Starts up every time runs fine in idle and at low RPMs. Im experiencing intermittent power surges when at WOT and higher RPMs. The motor never stalls out completely just seems to be affected under load. Sometimes I can run the boat for hours without experiencing an issue but it is starting to happen with more frequency. i am by no means an expert mechanic but i started with the fuels system. I have cleaned carbs, replaced fuel pump and filter. I have run the engine off an external tank and experienced the same issue so i don't believe the issue is in the fuel tank or the fuel lines. Fuel lines delivering to the carbs appear to be fine with no leaks. Also, since first experiencing the issue i have noticed the my spark plugs are fouling quickly, after probably less the 20 hours (wondering if this could be related). Any insight on where to look next would be greatly appreciated. + +Alex",I know on evinrude and johnson there is a ignition box that goes to each coil and when those start to fail they’ll cause that surging your talking about. I’m not a Yamaha guy but I would think it’s similar but hopefully if the compression test doesn’t fix your problem or correct gaps on your spark plug hopefully a more experienced Yamaha guy can help you.,I know on evinrude and johnson there is a ignition box that goes to each coil and when those start to fail they’ll cause that surging your talking about. I’m not a Yamaha guy but I would think it’s similar but hopefully if the compression test doesn’t fix your problem or correct gaps on your spark plug hopefully a more experienced Yamaha guy can help you.,"If you google search the part number any distributer carrying the part will also list the superseded part number. Then order accordingly. Otherwise, my go to for yam parts is boats.net. Call and ask for superseded part#" +"I am troubleshooting an issue with my 1998 Yamaha C60tlrw. Starts up every time runs fine in idle and at low RPMs. Im experiencing intermittent power surges when at WOT and higher RPMs. The motor never stalls out completely just seems to be affected under load. Sometimes I can run the boat for hours without experiencing an issue but it is starting to happen with more frequency. i am by no means an expert mechanic but i started with the fuels system. I have cleaned carbs, replaced fuel pump and filter. I have run the engine off an external tank and experienced the same issue so i don't believe the issue is in the fuel tank or the fuel lines. Fuel lines delivering to the carbs appear to be fine with no leaks. Also, since first experiencing the issue i have noticed the my spark plugs are fouling quickly, after probably less the 20 hours (wondering if this could be related). Any insight on where to look next would be greatly appreciated. + +Alex","rejesterd said: + + + + Check the compression in all cylinders. Considering the engine's age, the plug fouling, and everything you've already checked, that's where I'd be looking. I'm not sure what the spec is for minimum compression on your engine, but if you're getting anything less than 100 psi, I would say it's time to consider a new engine. + +Click to expand... + + +Compression checked out with 125psi in all 3 cylinders","rejesterd said: + + + + Check the compression in all cylinders. Considering the engine's age, the plug fouling, and everything you've already checked, that's where I'd be looking. I'm not sure what the spec is for minimum compression on your engine, but if you're getting anything less than 100 psi, I would say it's time to consider a new engine. + +Click to expand... + + +Compression checked out with 125psi in all 3 cylinders","thanks for your advice. starter is getting good current. problem is Bendix gear will engage the flywheel but will not turn it. starter shaft continues to spin and the Bendix gear gets hot in a few seconds. does not appear to be an electrical problem. cables are good, batt fully charged. basically, the Bendix gear shoots up the shaft, engages the flywheel ring but will not turn the flywheel, yet the starter shaft continues to spin and heats the Bendix gear." +"I am troubleshooting an issue with my 1998 Yamaha C60tlrw. Starts up every time runs fine in idle and at low RPMs. Im experiencing intermittent power surges when at WOT and higher RPMs. The motor never stalls out completely just seems to be affected under load. Sometimes I can run the boat for hours without experiencing an issue but it is starting to happen with more frequency. i am by no means an expert mechanic but i started with the fuels system. I have cleaned carbs, replaced fuel pump and filter. I have run the engine off an external tank and experienced the same issue so i don't believe the issue is in the fuel tank or the fuel lines. Fuel lines delivering to the carbs appear to be fine with no leaks. Also, since first experiencing the issue i have noticed the my spark plugs are fouling quickly, after probably less the 20 hours (wondering if this could be related). Any insight on where to look next would be greatly appreciated. + +Alex","125 should be fine, as long as you had the throttle wide open when you did the test. So I think the main thing to focus on would be your note about the spark plugs fouling since you noticed the performance problem. Assuming the compression is ok and you installed the correct plugs, then that means it's running rich due to incorrect fuel pressure. Almost always, that means it's the carbs. I would just replace them at this point. I've heard from many people that these carbs are extremely difficult to clean and tune. + +You can also try measuring the fuel pressure to see if it's higher than the expected range for that engine. If it's not too high, then start looking into all components related to ignition.","125 should be fine, as long as you had the throttle wide open when you did the test. So I think the main thing to focus on would be your note about the spark plugs fouling since you noticed the performance problem. Assuming the compression is ok and you installed the correct plugs, then that means it's running rich due to incorrect fuel pressure. Almost always, that means it's the carbs. I would just replace them at this point. I've heard from many people that these carbs are extremely difficult to clean and tune. + +You can also try measuring the fuel pressure to see if it's higher than the expected range for that engine. If it's not too high, then start looking into all components related to ignition.","Look at your ground, it is usually the first one to corrode." +"I am troubleshooting an issue with my 1998 Yamaha C60tlrw. Starts up every time runs fine in idle and at low RPMs. Im experiencing intermittent power surges when at WOT and higher RPMs. The motor never stalls out completely just seems to be affected under load. Sometimes I can run the boat for hours without experiencing an issue but it is starting to happen with more frequency. i am by no means an expert mechanic but i started with the fuels system. I have cleaned carbs, replaced fuel pump and filter. I have run the engine off an external tank and experienced the same issue so i don't believe the issue is in the fuel tank or the fuel lines. Fuel lines delivering to the carbs appear to be fine with no leaks. Also, since first experiencing the issue i have noticed the my spark plugs are fouling quickly, after probably less the 20 hours (wondering if this could be related). Any insight on where to look next would be greatly appreciated. + +Alex","Hey, also on my yamaha the pump diaphragm was shot and it would pour fuel right into the crankcase and of course caused a rich condition and that would foul the plugs in no time. replaced the part and the plugs dried up and it runs fine. also check your timing. on my motor the timing was screwed up and at idle that caused foul plugs","Hey, also on my yamaha the pump diaphragm was shot and it would pour fuel right into the crankcase and of course caused a rich condition and that would foul the plugs in no time. replaced the part and the plugs dried up and it runs fine. also check your timing. on my motor the timing was screwed up and at idle that caused foul plugs","Hello and thanks for your time coueytwo. My brother said as soon as it slows down, he shuts it off. waits maybe a few seconds and starts it up again and has full power like it would normally until it begins to slow down again.thanks for your help, +shaughnny" +"To explain my problem the best way I made a video today. The engine starts easily and runs fine at lower rpms but refuse to speed up. When I twist the throttle all the way up it seems like it is missfiring or like a rev limiter kicking in. What do you think? Appreciate your help. Check video below: + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHHSlMVNaas","I am new to this but that sure sounds like it is running out of fuel, fuel filter or sucking air in the fuel pick up line.","I am new to this but that sure sounds like it is running out of fuel, fuel filter or sucking air in the fuel pick up line.","If you have the HIN, call the company that made it for guidance....if they are out of business, you local body shop can probably help find you something that will match..." +"To explain my problem the best way I made a video today. The engine starts easily and runs fine at lower rpms but refuse to speed up. When I twist the throttle all the way up it seems like it is missfiring or like a rev limiter kicking in. What do you think? Appreciate your help. Check video below: + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHHSlMVNaas","Ed ke6bnl said: + + + + I am new to this but that sure sounds like it is running out of fuel, fuel filter or sucking air in the fuel pick up line. + +Click to expand... + + +Fuel filter is quite new, so I it shouldn't be that. +It feels like the problem occurs att the same rpm all the time. Do you think it is a possible air leak anyway? Shouldn't the problem occur more intermittent with an air leak?","Ed ke6bnl said: + + + + I am new to this but that sure sounds like it is running out of fuel, fuel filter or sucking air in the fuel pick up line. + +Click to expand... + + +Fuel filter is quite new, so I it shouldn't be that. +It feels like the problem occurs att the same rpm all the time. Do you think it is a possible air leak anyway? Shouldn't the problem occur more intermittent with an air leak?",I will look and get back with results. Thanks. +"To explain my problem the best way I made a video today. The engine starts easily and runs fine at lower rpms but refuse to speed up. When I twist the throttle all the way up it seems like it is missfiring or like a rev limiter kicking in. What do you think? Appreciate your help. Check video below: + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHHSlMVNaas","Hmm... had an issue on my johnson 20 that when I raised the throttle it would surge like crazy. cdi box was the problem, swapped it out and it cured the problem","Hmm... had an issue on my johnson 20 that when I raised the throttle it would surge like crazy. cdi box was the problem, swapped it out and it cured the problem","Not sure that I understand your questions/comments. + +The block is damaged. IMO it should be replaced. Others may suggest some sort of a repair procedure. + +Probably has happened before on a Yamaha similar to your model, other Yamaha models, or any brand or model of outboard motor. Saltwater is somewhat corrosive. + +It is really irrelevant if it has never ever happened before or if it has happened multiple times." +"To explain my problem the best way I made a video today. The engine starts easily and runs fine at lower rpms but refuse to speed up. When I twist the throttle all the way up it seems like it is missfiring or like a rev limiter kicking in. What do you think? Appreciate your help. Check video below: + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHHSlMVNaas","vroomZOOM said: + + + + Hmm... had an issue on my johnson 20 that when I raised the throttle it would surge like crazy. cdi box was the problem, swapped it out and it cured the problem + +Click to expand... + + +I have also been thinking about that. Anyone else had this issue with a 4-stroke?","vroomZOOM said: + + + + Hmm... had an issue on my johnson 20 that when I raised the throttle it would surge like crazy. cdi box was the problem, swapped it out and it cured the problem + +Click to expand... + + +I have also been thinking about that. Anyone else had this issue with a 4-stroke?","Now I want to replace the front slider part with 2 pins going through. This way the whole systems new and will be free from issues. Question is how to fix it right. I can’t post picture .the square inside slides in and has 2 pins + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,...... Change the whole coupler/ master-cylinder assembly,....." +I have a G3 cc with a 2004 Yamaha 50 2 stroke. The last few months the steering has gotten dangerously tight. I took the steering bar out of the channel and cleaned it very well. After putting it back together it is just as tight as before. I have put fresh grease in the fittings. I was just wondering if it is the steering cable or could it be something else? Any options would help.,"I also have a G3 that became tight after my first winter. I did exactly what you did, although I also manually spread grease on the rod itself. You either need more grease or you need to really clean out the inside of the link arm. Or maybe just replace it. + +I would guess it's not related to the cable. Just try rotating the engine with your hands.. if it's difficult to get it unstuck or you feel lots of resistance when it moves, I would say that narrows the issue down to the link arm itself.","I also have a G3 that became tight after my first winter. I did exactly what you did, although I also manually spread grease on the rod itself. You either need more grease or you need to really clean out the inside of the link arm. Or maybe just replace it. + +I would guess it's not related to the cable. Just try rotating the engine with your hands.. if it's difficult to get it unstuck or you feel lots of resistance when it moves, I would say that narrows the issue down to the link arm itself.",Thanks bondo..problem solved..was my key switch on my fly bridge..working fine now +"Hello everyone, + +I have done a lot of research on my current outboard, which is a 15hp 4 stroke (model:F15MSHX). I have found quite a bit of parts, butI am not sure what all I “really” need. Does anyone have any experience with this? I basically want to be able to use a pushbutton to crank, so my son can operate without having to pull the rope. I am not running a full blown stick steer,electrical box setup, I only want to be able to crank with a button and thisbutton can be on the motor. Any and allsuggestions/recommendations/ideas, ect… are greatly appreciated. Thanks. JD","I am in the same ""boat"" with a 2005 motor and want electric start. I found what seems like a starter for it and it seems I could just bolt it on and wire it up, but not sure.","I am in the same ""boat"" with a 2005 motor and want electric start. I found what seems like a starter for it and it seems I could just bolt it on and wire it up, but not sure.","Thanks for the replies. I will test the wiring at the helm and see what happens and will keep you informed. +Regards, +Noochie" +"Hello everyone, + +I have done a lot of research on my current outboard, which is a 15hp 4 stroke (model:F15MSHX). I have found quite a bit of parts, butI am not sure what all I “really” need. Does anyone have any experience with this? I basically want to be able to use a pushbutton to crank, so my son can operate without having to pull the rope. I am not running a full blown stick steer,electrical box setup, I only want to be able to crank with a button and thisbutton can be on the motor. Any and allsuggestions/recommendations/ideas, ect… are greatly appreciated. Thanks. JD","Ed ke6bnl said: + + + + I am in the same ""boat"" with a 2005 motor and want electric start. I found what seems like a starter for it and it seems I could just bolt it on and wire it up, but not sure. + +Click to expand... + + +Presumably you have an F15MSHD. + +Open the Yamaha parts catalog for the F15MSHD. Open the parts catalog for the F15ESHD. Compare the parts used on your model with the F15ESHD electric start model. + +Remove the parts that are used on the F15MSHD that are not used n the F15ESHD and install the parts that are used on the F15ESHD that are not used on the F15MSHD. + +It is more than just the starter motor.","Ed ke6bnl said: + + + + I am in the same ""boat"" with a 2005 motor and want electric start. I found what seems like a starter for it and it seems I could just bolt it on and wire it up, but not sure. + +Click to expand... + + +Presumably you have an F15MSHD. + +Open the Yamaha parts catalog for the F15MSHD. Open the parts catalog for the F15ESHD. Compare the parts used on your model with the F15ESHD electric start model. + +Remove the parts that are used on the F15MSHD that are not used n the F15ESHD and install the parts that are used on the F15ESHD that are not used on the F15MSHD. + +It is more than just the starter motor.","Thanks. Pulled battery again, and put in a spare battery had in the garage, and everything worked fine. Taking back tomorrow since only 9 months old with a 2 year replacement warranty. Thanks for your help." +"Hello everyone, + +I have done a lot of research on my current outboard, which is a 15hp 4 stroke (model:F15MSHX). I have found quite a bit of parts, butI am not sure what all I “really” need. Does anyone have any experience with this? I basically want to be able to use a pushbutton to crank, so my son can operate without having to pull the rope. I am not running a full blown stick steer,electrical box setup, I only want to be able to crank with a button and thisbutton can be on the motor. Any and allsuggestions/recommendations/ideas, ect… are greatly appreciated. Thanks. JD",From what I can tell a starter and some sort of relay. I am not sure of the flywheel and see a problem if you accidently try to start the motor while in gear I see breakage unless you can disable the start relay in when in gear. not sure how they do than. Also I am not interested in auto choke.,From what I can tell a starter and some sort of relay. I am not sure of the flywheel and see a problem if you accidently try to start the motor while in gear I see breakage unless you can disable the start relay in when in gear. not sure how they do than. Also I am not interested in auto choke.,"Thanks for the quick reply that's good to know? +its a 6mm thread and 1.0 pitch bolt , checked on a thread gauge ? +Stupid question but can I drill into the stripped hole on the actual outboard or take the the cylinder and cooling jacket off first then do it ? Because I'm thinking if I drill when it's on the outboard, the metal strips of the drill and tap will go into Casing or water jacket ?? I don't know what's behind ??? +thanks" +"Hello everyone, + +I have done a lot of research on my current outboard, which is a 15hp 4 stroke (model:F15MSHX). I have found quite a bit of parts, butI am not sure what all I “really” need. Does anyone have any experience with this? I basically want to be able to use a pushbutton to crank, so my son can operate without having to pull the rope. I am not running a full blown stick steer,electrical box setup, I only want to be able to crank with a button and thisbutton can be on the motor. Any and allsuggestions/recommendations/ideas, ect… are greatly appreciated. Thanks. JD","Ed ke6bnl said: + + + + From what I can tell a starter and some sort of relay. I am not sure of the flywheel and see a problem if you accidently try to start the motor while in gear I see breakage unless you can disable the start relay in when in gear. not sure how they do than. Also I am not interested in auto choke. + +Click to expand... + +Look at the part number of the F15M flywheel and the part number of the F15E flywheel. If the same part number then no need to change it. If the part numbers are different then the F15M flywheel comes off and the F15 E flywheel goes on. + +Both models show the presence of a choke knob. Both models indicate they use the same carburetor. Why bring up the issue of an auto choke? + +The F15E model indicates the use of a starter button, a starter relay, a start in gear switch, battery cables, etc. + +There is no need to guess. The parts catalogs will tell precisely what is needed to convert an F15M to an F15E configuration.","Ed ke6bnl said: + + + + From what I can tell a starter and some sort of relay. I am not sure of the flywheel and see a problem if you accidently try to start the motor while in gear I see breakage unless you can disable the start relay in when in gear. not sure how they do than. Also I am not interested in auto choke. + +Click to expand... + +Look at the part number of the F15M flywheel and the part number of the F15E flywheel. If the same part number then no need to change it. If the part numbers are different then the F15M flywheel comes off and the F15 E flywheel goes on. + +Both models show the presence of a choke knob. Both models indicate they use the same carburetor. Why bring up the issue of an auto choke? + +The F15E model indicates the use of a starter button, a starter relay, a start in gear switch, battery cables, etc. + +There is no need to guess. The parts catalogs will tell precisely what is needed to convert an F15M to an F15E configuration.","Suggest that you post your question on the Johnson/Evinrude Forum on this site. Go to top left of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" then scroll down to the Johnson/Evinrude forum." +"Hello everyone, + +I have done a lot of research on my current outboard, which is a 15hp 4 stroke (model:F15MSHX). I have found quite a bit of parts, butI am not sure what all I “really” need. Does anyone have any experience with this? I basically want to be able to use a pushbutton to crank, so my son can operate without having to pull the rope. I am not running a full blown stick steer,electrical box setup, I only want to be able to crank with a button and thisbutton can be on the motor. Any and allsuggestions/recommendations/ideas, ect… are greatly appreciated. Thanks. JD",Might seem easy to see all the differences if you are more familiar with the motors. I just picked up the motor. Thanks for pointing out the neutral safety switch. that is important part of the project. I brought up the auto choke because I see the manual shows a remote throttle and start assemble and uses a auto choke to start from the driver's seat.,Might seem easy to see all the differences if you are more familiar with the motors. I just picked up the motor. Thanks for pointing out the neutral safety switch. that is important part of the project. I brought up the auto choke because I see the manual shows a remote throttle and start assemble and uses a auto choke to start from the driver's seat.,"Well, that picture is not that bad. Whoever wired it used neoprene to insulate the wires from chaffing against the metal bracket. A plastic hole sleave would have been a better solution. + +You can probably purchase the harness, but that is problamatic, since you are not exactly sure of what engine you have. Typically, you will have one of two types of set-up. The first will be a hardwire situation, where each wire off the engine runs directly to your console - ignition wires, heat sensor wire, oil pressure wire, tach wire, etc. The other situation is when each of the engine function wires run into a large multi-pin connector plug. That plug is then mated to a multi-wire plug that takes the wires to your console. At the console, you will have another multi-pin wire with leads to the ignition, gauges, warning buzzer, and so worth. + +Personally, I would make my own. That way, I know exactly what I am dealing with. I think if you do some Google searches, you'll find a discussion on the setup. Start by typing in something like ""Marine 305 wiring harness"". + +The bottom line is that you are going to need to spend some time unraveling what you have and how it should be wired up. It's a great learning experience and you will build a lot of confidence in your engine and setup." +"Hello everyone, + +I have done a lot of research on my current outboard, which is a 15hp 4 stroke (model:F15MSHX). I have found quite a bit of parts, butI am not sure what all I “really” need. Does anyone have any experience with this? I basically want to be able to use a pushbutton to crank, so my son can operate without having to pull the rope. I am not running a full blown stick steer,electrical box setup, I only want to be able to crank with a button and thisbutton can be on the motor. Any and allsuggestions/recommendations/ideas, ect… are greatly appreciated. Thanks. JD","Print the parts book pages that apply to the modification. The starter motor page. The electrical page. Go to the motor and compare what is seen on the parts page to the motor itself. It will help you become more familiar with the motor. + +The F15MSHD uses no auto-choke at all. It has to be choked manually by pulling the choke knob. A control box may have a press to choke toggle switch or the key switch may have this functionality but it will not be connected to the motor. Therefore, it does nothing. + +Now there are 2005 F15 models that do have a choke solenoid. But it has to be manually activated. It is not automatic. But since we still don't know what model motor you have at this point we are still kinda shooting in the dark.","Print the parts book pages that apply to the modification. The starter motor page. The electrical page. Go to the motor and compare what is seen on the parts page to the motor itself. It will help you become more familiar with the motor. + +The F15MSHD uses no auto-choke at all. It has to be choked manually by pulling the choke knob. A control box may have a press to choke toggle switch or the key switch may have this functionality but it will not be connected to the motor. Therefore, it does nothing. + +Now there are 2005 F15 models that do have a choke solenoid. But it has to be manually activated. It is not automatic. But since we still don't know what model motor you have at this point we are still kinda shooting in the dark.","Thanks for replying,I'm replacing a 250 Saltwater Series engine on a 30 ft flat bottom aluminum boat.Empty it can scoot along at 30 or so(pretty good) under load of approx. an extra 5,000 lbs it can go maybe 12knots at 2,500 rpm( from experience and propping down as much as possible I don't push it under load as I will blow the block.It's kind of a compromise when I was experimenting with props.I'm hoping the 4 stroke and gear ratios on 200 or 250 will be a little easier on the block with this program with that said I did okay with the old 250 Saltwater Series,but what do you think 200 or 250 when considering this application or?" +"I have nursed all the life I can out of my 15 year old tilt tube and need to replace it. The stainless replacement tube is less than $100 and although I've never done this job befoere it seems pretty straightforward, my issue is how to support the weight of the engine. Does anynone have any experience or ideas of how this might be done without a proper engine hoist, which I do not have? 2003 90hp Yamaha 2 stroke. Thanks.",Feed the new tube in pushing the old tube out being careful of the bushings.. That is how I do it. Have an extra pair of hand to help you. No hoist needed.,Feed the new tube in pushing the old tube out being careful of the bushings.. That is how I do it. Have an extra pair of hand to help you. No hoist needed.,What is the model number of the engine? +"I have nursed all the life I can out of my 15 year old tilt tube and need to replace it. The stainless replacement tube is less than $100 and although I've never done this job befoere it seems pretty straightforward, my issue is how to support the weight of the engine. Does anynone have any experience or ideas of how this might be done without a proper engine hoist, which I do not have? 2003 90hp Yamaha 2 stroke. Thanks.",Put the motor on the tilt lock.,Put the motor on the tilt lock.,Ok try it now if the video quality is not good enough let me know and ill do it again +"I have nursed all the life I can out of my 15 year old tilt tube and need to replace it. The stainless replacement tube is less than $100 and although I've never done this job befoere it seems pretty straightforward, my issue is how to support the weight of the engine. Does anynone have any experience or ideas of how this might be done without a proper engine hoist, which I do not have? 2003 90hp Yamaha 2 stroke. Thanks.","I figured the weight of the engine would be putting pressure on the tube and that because of that it couldn't just be pushed (or pounded) out, but Chris you're saying that based on your experience that's not the case, yes?","I figured the weight of the engine would be putting pressure on the tube and that because of that it couldn't just be pushed (or pounded) out, but Chris you're saying that based on your experience that's not the case, yes?","You should have three wires coming off the instrument, if it is the standard type. If you connect the ground to battery negative and the I (Ignition) terminal to battery positive, then tach should go to zero. If your set up has a customized plug that goes into a harness, you are going to need to figure out the ground and Ignition connectors to test it. Try the Faria website." +"Engine runs smoothly at low and high rpms. However, when I shift to neutral it does. It will only start of I advance the throttle and maintain the Rpms above 1000. Motor only continues running if I quickly shift running if I quickly shift it into gear and raise the rpms. Any ideas on what is causing this problem?","If a carb engine, the carbs need to be cleaned.","If a carb engine, the carbs need to be cleaned.","Have you pulled plugs lately,to see if one is steam cleaned, Just because it passed compression test does't mean there's no water intrusion." +"Engine runs smoothly at low and high rpms. However, when I shift to neutral it does. It will only start of I advance the throttle and maintain the Rpms above 1000. Motor only continues running if I quickly shift running if I quickly shift it into gear and raise the rpms. Any ideas on what is causing this problem?",Agree here ^^^^. Idle should never be over 1k. Time and sync carbs per manual spec.,Agree here ^^^^. Idle should never be over 1k. Time and sync carbs per manual spec.,"For most single helm installations with domestic engines and analog gauges, the answer is yes, the sender units will interchange...most use the ""US Standard"" which will show the minimum value with 240 ohms between the sender and ground and go to full scale with 33 ohms between the sender and ground. + +If you can't find the info in the gauge maker's data sheets, you can always ""measure what you have""." +"Hello and thank you has anyone who tries to help. I have a 1994 Yamaha 150 outboard that began overheating. A little backstory first, I've had this boat for about 4 months and it has always ran perfectly until a couple weeks ago when my lower unit gave out and I had to limp it back to the dock. I found another used lower unit that I was able to purchase. Being a dummy and not thinking to look over the water pump parts I threw that lower unit on to my motor and cranked it up. Once running it took about 25 or 30 seconds to start peeing and then in less than 2 minutes the water coming out of The Tell Tale what's steaming and too hot to touch. I immediately shut it down as soon as that started and pulled the lower unit back off. Once I got the housing off of the impeller I saw where are the rubber on the impeller had been scored up like it was run dry for a short amount of time. I ordered a new water pump kit and replace the impeller, and the base plate in gasket. Once it was all back together I fired it up and the same thing is happening. Once again I pulled off the lower unit this time to find nothing is wrong with the impeller and everything appears to be working fine. I pulled off the water jackets and they were all very clean which came as no surprise because supposedly this motor was completely rebuilt less than five years ago. I also bought two new thermostats and replace them which make no difference in this issue. I'm hoping someone can give me some advice, maybe something I'm overlooking so I can get this situated get back on the water. I should also note that there is steam or white smoke coming out of the vents about the prop, and it's a lot more then I've ever seen in the past. The other thing I want to mention is that the Woodruff key appeared to be filed down a little bit by whoever worked on it last, and I was unable to remove it. When putting the impeller on to the key it seems to fit on properly but I am unsure if there's any possibility Indian color can be slipping on the drive shaft do do not fully engaging the Woodruff key and causing not enough water flow?","It's possible that this has everything to do with changing the lower unit, and it's also possible that this has nothing to do with that (because you've only owned the boat for 4 months.. so this is a problem that may have come up even if you hadn't replaced the lower unit). + + +Considering the age of the engine, the length of time you've owned it (which is short), and the overheating combined with the white exhaust smoke, the very first thing I would do is check for good compression in all the cylinders. It's a cheap and quick test that could save you a ton of time and money here. In general, what you described sounds like a blown head gasket or some other kind of internal damage (which would mean you want to look for a new engine rather than spend anymore time and money fixing up this one). But if compression is ok, then there are a few other things to check: + + +Look for clogs and kinks in the cooling lines just to be sure, but this is usually a bad thermoswitch or a bad CDI unit (assuming compression in all cylinders checked out ok). I would definitely buy the service manual from Yamaha, because that will tell you how to test the electrical parts, and how to do the compression test. +Good luck.","It's possible that this has everything to do with changing the lower unit, and it's also possible that this has nothing to do with that (because you've only owned the boat for 4 months.. so this is a problem that may have come up even if you hadn't replaced the lower unit). + + +Considering the age of the engine, the length of time you've owned it (which is short), and the overheating combined with the white exhaust smoke, the very first thing I would do is check for good compression in all the cylinders. It's a cheap and quick test that could save you a ton of time and money here. In general, what you described sounds like a blown head gasket or some other kind of internal damage (which would mean you want to look for a new engine rather than spend anymore time and money fixing up this one). But if compression is ok, then there are a few other things to check: + + +Look for clogs and kinks in the cooling lines just to be sure, but this is usually a bad thermoswitch or a bad CDI unit (assuming compression in all cylinders checked out ok). I would definitely buy the service manual from Yamaha, because that will tell you how to test the electrical parts, and how to do the compression test. +Good luck.","Re: paulyoung194135 + +what type of ign system, points?? Bad tach , shift interupter switch." +"Hello and thank you has anyone who tries to help. I have a 1994 Yamaha 150 outboard that began overheating. A little backstory first, I've had this boat for about 4 months and it has always ran perfectly until a couple weeks ago when my lower unit gave out and I had to limp it back to the dock. I found another used lower unit that I was able to purchase. Being a dummy and not thinking to look over the water pump parts I threw that lower unit on to my motor and cranked it up. Once running it took about 25 or 30 seconds to start peeing and then in less than 2 minutes the water coming out of The Tell Tale what's steaming and too hot to touch. I immediately shut it down as soon as that started and pulled the lower unit back off. Once I got the housing off of the impeller I saw where are the rubber on the impeller had been scored up like it was run dry for a short amount of time. I ordered a new water pump kit and replace the impeller, and the base plate in gasket. Once it was all back together I fired it up and the same thing is happening. Once again I pulled off the lower unit this time to find nothing is wrong with the impeller and everything appears to be working fine. I pulled off the water jackets and they were all very clean which came as no surprise because supposedly this motor was completely rebuilt less than five years ago. I also bought two new thermostats and replace them which make no difference in this issue. I'm hoping someone can give me some advice, maybe something I'm overlooking so I can get this situated get back on the water. I should also note that there is steam or white smoke coming out of the vents about the prop, and it's a lot more then I've ever seen in the past. The other thing I want to mention is that the Woodruff key appeared to be filed down a little bit by whoever worked on it last, and I was unable to remove it. When putting the impeller on to the key it seems to fit on properly but I am unsure if there's any possibility Indian color can be slipping on the drive shaft do do not fully engaging the Woodruff key and causing not enough water flow?","I thank you very much for the response. Yesterday afternoon I took my lower unit to my boat guy and as soon as he walked up to it and got to look at the impeller he told me that it was shot. I proceeded to tell him that I had just put it on less than a week ago and that the engine had been barely run do to it still not cooling properly. Once he pulled the impeller off the shaft to inspect it he asked me where I got it from which, I told him I got it off Amazon as a kit. He proceeded to tell me how the impeller I got was junk and got me a Sierra impeller he had in stock. I went home and put it all back together and Wallah everything was working just as it should. Engine still running great, cooling system running all well again with lukewarm water coming out The Tell Tale and a nice strong stream. So if anyone is reading this after purchasing a water pump kit online that is not a Sierra brand or Genuine Yamaha parts don't try to save a couple bucks because everything else is garbage and will cause you headaches.","I thank you very much for the response. Yesterday afternoon I took my lower unit to my boat guy and as soon as he walked up to it and got to look at the impeller he told me that it was shot. I proceeded to tell him that I had just put it on less than a week ago and that the engine had been barely run do to it still not cooling properly. Once he pulled the impeller off the shaft to inspect it he asked me where I got it from which, I told him I got it off Amazon as a kit. He proceeded to tell me how the impeller I got was junk and got me a Sierra impeller he had in stock. I went home and put it all back together and Wallah everything was working just as it should. Engine still running great, cooling system running all well again with lukewarm water coming out The Tell Tale and a nice strong stream. So if anyone is reading this after purchasing a water pump kit online that is not a Sierra brand or Genuine Yamaha parts don't try to save a couple bucks because everything else is garbage and will cause you headaches.",Did you have the injectors cleaned? +"Hello and thank you has anyone who tries to help. I have a 1994 Yamaha 150 outboard that began overheating. A little backstory first, I've had this boat for about 4 months and it has always ran perfectly until a couple weeks ago when my lower unit gave out and I had to limp it back to the dock. I found another used lower unit that I was able to purchase. Being a dummy and not thinking to look over the water pump parts I threw that lower unit on to my motor and cranked it up. Once running it took about 25 or 30 seconds to start peeing and then in less than 2 minutes the water coming out of The Tell Tale what's steaming and too hot to touch. I immediately shut it down as soon as that started and pulled the lower unit back off. Once I got the housing off of the impeller I saw where are the rubber on the impeller had been scored up like it was run dry for a short amount of time. I ordered a new water pump kit and replace the impeller, and the base plate in gasket. Once it was all back together I fired it up and the same thing is happening. Once again I pulled off the lower unit this time to find nothing is wrong with the impeller and everything appears to be working fine. I pulled off the water jackets and they were all very clean which came as no surprise because supposedly this motor was completely rebuilt less than five years ago. I also bought two new thermostats and replace them which make no difference in this issue. I'm hoping someone can give me some advice, maybe something I'm overlooking so I can get this situated get back on the water. I should also note that there is steam or white smoke coming out of the vents about the prop, and it's a lot more then I've ever seen in the past. The other thing I want to mention is that the Woodruff key appeared to be filed down a little bit by whoever worked on it last, and I was unable to remove it. When putting the impeller on to the key it seems to fit on properly but I am unsure if there's any possibility Indian color can be slipping on the drive shaft do do not fully engaging the Woodruff key and causing not enough water flow?","Dahoff89 said: + + + + I thank you very much for the response. Yesterday afternoon I took my lower unit to my boat guy and as soon as he walked up to it and got to look at the impeller he told me that it was shot. I proceeded to tell him that I had just put it on less than a week ago and that the engine had been barely run do to it still not cooling properly. Once he pulled the impeller off the shaft to inspect it he asked me where I got it from which, I told him I got it off Amazon as a kit. He proceeded to tell me how the impeller I got was junk and got me a Sierra impeller he had in stock. I went home and put it all back together and Wallah everything was working just as it should. Engine still running great, cooling system running all well again with lukewarm water coming out The Tell Tale and a nice strong stream. So if anyone is reading this after purchasing a water pump kit online that is not a Sierra brand or Genuine Yamaha parts don't try to save a couple bucks because everything else is garbage and will cause you headaches. + +Click to expand... + + +Very good. + +Good to know that my next impeller change doesn't have to be the expensive Yamaha OEM kit. I used a Sierra oil filter, but hadn't tried their impeller yet.","Dahoff89 said: + + + + I thank you very much for the response. Yesterday afternoon I took my lower unit to my boat guy and as soon as he walked up to it and got to look at the impeller he told me that it was shot. I proceeded to tell him that I had just put it on less than a week ago and that the engine had been barely run do to it still not cooling properly. Once he pulled the impeller off the shaft to inspect it he asked me where I got it from which, I told him I got it off Amazon as a kit. He proceeded to tell me how the impeller I got was junk and got me a Sierra impeller he had in stock. I went home and put it all back together and Wallah everything was working just as it should. Engine still running great, cooling system running all well again with lukewarm water coming out The Tell Tale and a nice strong stream. So if anyone is reading this after purchasing a water pump kit online that is not a Sierra brand or Genuine Yamaha parts don't try to save a couple bucks because everything else is garbage and will cause you headaches. + +Click to expand... + + +Very good. + +Good to know that my next impeller change doesn't have to be the expensive Yamaha OEM kit. I used a Sierra oil filter, but hadn't tried their impeller yet.","Ramona said: + + + + plz help,we have a 1979 mercury 80 put it in the water and starts fine but gas floods all in the water.now the only way to keep it running is constantly pressing the bubble on the gas line comin from the tank. what do i need to do? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Rebuild the Carbs,...." +"Hello and thank you has anyone who tries to help. I have a 1994 Yamaha 150 outboard that began overheating. A little backstory first, I've had this boat for about 4 months and it has always ran perfectly until a couple weeks ago when my lower unit gave out and I had to limp it back to the dock. I found another used lower unit that I was able to purchase. Being a dummy and not thinking to look over the water pump parts I threw that lower unit on to my motor and cranked it up. Once running it took about 25 or 30 seconds to start peeing and then in less than 2 minutes the water coming out of The Tell Tale what's steaming and too hot to touch. I immediately shut it down as soon as that started and pulled the lower unit back off. Once I got the housing off of the impeller I saw where are the rubber on the impeller had been scored up like it was run dry for a short amount of time. I ordered a new water pump kit and replace the impeller, and the base plate in gasket. Once it was all back together I fired it up and the same thing is happening. Once again I pulled off the lower unit this time to find nothing is wrong with the impeller and everything appears to be working fine. I pulled off the water jackets and they were all very clean which came as no surprise because supposedly this motor was completely rebuilt less than five years ago. I also bought two new thermostats and replace them which make no difference in this issue. I'm hoping someone can give me some advice, maybe something I'm overlooking so I can get this situated get back on the water. I should also note that there is steam or white smoke coming out of the vents about the prop, and it's a lot more then I've ever seen in the past. The other thing I want to mention is that the Woodruff key appeared to be filed down a little bit by whoever worked on it last, and I was unable to remove it. When putting the impeller on to the key it seems to fit on properly but I am unsure if there's any possibility Indian color can be slipping on the drive shaft do do not fully engaging the Woodruff key and causing not enough water flow?",Yep! My boat guy told me to use genuine Yamaha or Sierra parts from here on out and it would be fine. Can't wait to get back out on the water this weekend!,Yep! My boat guy told me to use genuine Yamaha or Sierra parts from here on out and it would be fine. Can't wait to get back out on the water this weekend!,"It wouldn't surprise me. I ran a Suzuki 75 2-stroke for several years on my prior boat and the only difference between it and the 85 was the carbs. However, the cost to replace the 3 carbs with the 85HP versions wasn't worth it when it came to $'s per HP gained. I've also no idea if the ECU in that engine would have needed to swapped out or re-flashed to work with the new carbs. Maybe someone else here can comment." +"Hello, +I'm new to the forum. +I have a 2007 Yamaha 15 HP 4 stroke engine that is driving me nuts. +It will start right up, but then the frustration begins. +After idling for 2-3 mins if I put it in gear & give it gas it stalls & continues to do that until it warms up for 10 mins. +Once it warms up it runs great. +Before I say what 2 different wrenchs told me I'm asking for solid advice. +Thanks","Could be lots of things, but it's all just guessing until some tests are performed. Also keep in mind, some of this might not apply to your exact model.. this is just general guidance for Yamaha engines of the post 2006 generation. + +If it starts no problem, then I would not look too deeply at your ignition system or the battery (though it still could come back to this). + +If you get the YDS kit and the service manual (not the owner's manual), it will probably help here. + +1. Spray some starter fluid or brake cleaner (the flammable kind) around the intake manifold while the engine is idling. If the idle speed jumps/changes, you have an air leak, which would cause the kind of behavior you described. The fix for that is typically just getting a new set of gaskets. + +2. Check the throttle linkage. You really need the service manual for this, as it will tell you how to check this step-by-step. + +3. Check the throttle position sensor and the idle speed control valve. One of these parts might be fried. + +4. Check the mechanical fuel pump diaphragm for tears or holes. + +5. Check the vapor separator needle valve to see if it's bent or gouged. + +6. Check the resistance of each fuel injector (I assume it's fuel injected.. if not, clean/rebuild the carbs). + +7. Check the ECM voltage to see if it's in spec. + +The service manual will tell you how to check all this stuff and what the specs are. + +Good luck.","Could be lots of things, but it's all just guessing until some tests are performed. Also keep in mind, some of this might not apply to your exact model.. this is just general guidance for Yamaha engines of the post 2006 generation. + +If it starts no problem, then I would not look too deeply at your ignition system or the battery (though it still could come back to this). + +If you get the YDS kit and the service manual (not the owner's manual), it will probably help here. + +1. Spray some starter fluid or brake cleaner (the flammable kind) around the intake manifold while the engine is idling. If the idle speed jumps/changes, you have an air leak, which would cause the kind of behavior you described. The fix for that is typically just getting a new set of gaskets. + +2. Check the throttle linkage. You really need the service manual for this, as it will tell you how to check this step-by-step. + +3. Check the throttle position sensor and the idle speed control valve. One of these parts might be fried. + +4. Check the mechanical fuel pump diaphragm for tears or holes. + +5. Check the vapor separator needle valve to see if it's bent or gouged. + +6. Check the resistance of each fuel injector (I assume it's fuel injected.. if not, clean/rebuild the carbs). + +7. Check the ECM voltage to see if it's in spec. + +The service manual will tell you how to check all this stuff and what the specs are. + +Good luck.",Mercury Mariner G361355 +"Hello, +I'm new to the forum. +I have a 2007 Yamaha 15 HP 4 stroke engine that is driving me nuts. +It will start right up, but then the frustration begins. +After idling for 2-3 mins if I put it in gear & give it gas it stalls & continues to do that until it warms up for 10 mins. +Once it warms up it runs great. +Before I say what 2 different wrenchs told me I'm asking for solid advice. +Thanks","Sounds like the carburetor is set too lean on the low speed mixture screw.-------These carburetors have tiny passage ways that can be difficult to find to clean them.-----And what do your "" mechanics "" tell you needs to be done ??","Sounds like the carburetor is set too lean on the low speed mixture screw.-------These carburetors have tiny passage ways that can be difficult to find to clean them.-----And what do your "" mechanics "" tell you needs to be done ??","aliboy said: + + + + Is the engine missing and running rough, or just won't run up past 200 rpm? +First thing is to do a compression check. That takes care of one of the most basic issues that could cause your problem. If compressions are good, how are the fuel pumps? If they are good, how are the carbs? Need to check all those things before getting into the next phases. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi thanks for your suggestions. The engine is fine on the muffs, but when put in the water won't rev past 2000 almost like it is limp home mode. Compression 115 to 120" +"Hello, +I'm new to the forum. +I have a 2007 Yamaha 15 HP 4 stroke engine that is driving me nuts. +It will start right up, but then the frustration begins. +After idling for 2-3 mins if I put it in gear & give it gas it stalls & continues to do that until it warms up for 10 mins. +Once it warms up it runs great. +Before I say what 2 different wrenchs told me I'm asking for solid advice. +Thanks","the 2 ""mechanics"" i spoke with said. + +#1- the gray fuel lines could be bad from the ethanol. +#2- this guy owns a marina- yamahas are known for acting like that, nothing to worry about.","the 2 ""mechanics"" i spoke with said. + +#1- the gray fuel lines could be bad from the ethanol. +#2- this guy owns a marina- yamahas are known for acting like that, nothing to worry about.","I did find the three wires coming from the front controls that are from the tilt trim. They are cut at the back of the boat. 2 white wires and 1 red. Obviously, there is an up and down wire and a ground. Logically, i would think I could tie in on the existing, working switch but logically doesn't work for me with 12 volt wiring." +"Hello, +I'm new to the forum. +I have a 2007 Yamaha 15 HP 4 stroke engine that is driving me nuts. +It will start right up, but then the frustration begins. +After idling for 2-3 mins if I put it in gear & give it gas it stalls & continues to do that until it warms up for 10 mins. +Once it warms up it runs great. +Before I say what 2 different wrenchs told me I'm asking for solid advice. +Thanks","thanks, it has a carb. +i read your suggestions and you are way above my pay grade.","thanks, it has a carb. +i read your suggestions and you are way above my pay grade.","racerone said: + + + + Do a compression test before you buy it.------Check spark also.----I say it is running on 2 of 3 cylinders.------Oil injection is quite reliable on those.----Install a new impeller in water pump before you launch first time. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you I will take both testing kits with me when I look at the boat. Guess I would know for sure right off the bat if he declines me to check." +"Hello, +I'm new to the forum. +I have a 2007 Yamaha 15 HP 4 stroke engine that is driving me nuts. +It will start right up, but then the frustration begins. +After idling for 2-3 mins if I put it in gear & give it gas it stalls & continues to do that until it warms up for 10 mins. +Once it warms up it runs great. +Before I say what 2 different wrenchs told me I'm asking for solid advice. +Thanks","Many of those suggestions apply to a FUEL INJECTED motor.------Yours is not so ignore that.------Look at cleaning your carburetor.------Know not how ?-----Look at some u-tube videos to help understand , gain confidence !","Many of those suggestions apply to a FUEL INJECTED motor.------Yours is not so ignore that.------Look at cleaning your carburetor.------Know not how ?-----Look at some u-tube videos to help understand , gain confidence !","No ideas, but would like to hear how it is solved" +"Hello, +I'm new to the forum. +I have a 2007 Yamaha 15 HP 4 stroke engine that is driving me nuts. +It will start right up, but then the frustration begins. +After idling for 2-3 mins if I put it in gear & give it gas it stalls & continues to do that until it warms up for 10 mins. +Once it warms up it runs great. +Before I say what 2 different wrenchs told me I'm asking for solid advice. +Thanks","If you find your carb to be the issue. + +After many years of servicing smaller 4stroke outboards for a local Yacht club, when the carbs are an issue I replace them with new ones. + +The best $425.00 you will spend. + +The success rate for cleaning them is low because of the extremely small passages....Just like Racerone suggested.","If you find your carb to be the issue. + +After many years of servicing smaller 4stroke outboards for a local Yacht club, when the carbs are an issue I replace them with new ones. + +The best $425.00 you will spend. + +The success rate for cleaning them is low because of the extremely small passages....Just like Racerone suggested.","Let's get on same page so we're not getting confused with terminology . The oil tank attached to the engine and under the cowling is called the Main Tank. The other oil tank which is not attached to the engine is called the reserve tank. The reserve tank has a pump, which is on the side towards the bottom and it's hard to miss. Easy way to determine if this pump is working is by emptying the Main tank so the oil level is below the lower level line. If the oil pump system is functioning properly, when you turn the key ON the reserve oil tank pump will transfer oil into the Main oil tank. When you turn the key ON place your hand on the reserve oil pump and if it's working you'll feel it. Also when you turn key ON when oil level is below the low level line, the low level alarm will trigger and will only turn off when the Main tank oil level is above the low level line. If the pump doesn't transfer oil from reserve tank to Main tank, you've either got a bad pump or bad conductivity in the oil harness. I'd confirm good harness conductivity before replacing the pump. And if the low level alarm doesn't trigger when you turn key ON, you've got that issue to deal with too." +I recently bought a 2005 Yamaha F25 ELHD.I am trying to locate a service manual for this motor.Yamaha has a website that offers original service manuals but they don't go back to 2005.I have heard some negativity about SELOC service manuals and after glancing over their service manual for Yamaha 4 strokes I see they cover a large range of models and horse power ratings in one manual.Can anyone offer any advice on locating an aftermarket manual more specific to this motor? Or an original? I would greatly appreciate any feedback,"https://www.yamahapubs.com/results.php?cat-id=4&year=2005&model=F25ELHD&lang=en + +That site goes back to 1984.","https://www.yamahapubs.com/results.php?cat-id=4&year=2005&model=F25ELHD&lang=en + +That site goes back to 1984.","OK so we tried to take off the flywheel - absolutely no way, to me it looks as if the nut hodling it down is fused onto the shaft, I do not think anyone has ever removed that nut since 2002 in some factory in Japan when the motor was built. Strangely I also paid a hefty sum two years ago to have the timing belt replaced, may be he replaced it without removing the flywheel... + +The next step inserted the multimeter on the connector that connects the stator to the regulator (it was three wires I hope it was that) and measured AC voltage while cranking the engine. On 2 or 3 combinations (the connector has 3 wires) it read 5-6V AC while cranking. I took that to mean that the stator is producing some voltage and has not melted. + +I also measured on the wires leading to the coils and saw no voltage so the fault must be the CDI. + +Unfortunately the CDI seems to be outrageously expensive in Greece and must be brought in from abroad (no idea where) and costs something like $1000 whereas on US web sites the part is listed at around $340. + +One problem is that the US sites do not list my type of engine, mine is a F80AET and the US sites list a slightly different designation. + +Therefore the rectifier is 67F-81960-12 and on the US sites it is 67F-81960-12-00 - this looks the same so so far so good. + +On the CDI the part is 67F-85540-01 and on the US sites it is 67F-85540-03-00 - this looks to be slighly different." +"Went fishing today. Motor ran perfectly when idling along. Went to go to a different spot about 2 miles away at 3/4 throttle and the boat started running rough after about a mile and a half and the overheat warning buzzer came on. Waited for about 20 minutes, restarted the engine and idled back to the boat ramp. The pump impeller was replaced about a year ago and there is an excellent pee stream. Any ideas on the problem will be greatly appreciated.","With no response from the community, I ordered a new thermostat with gasket along with a new pressure control valve with spring and grommet. Will install early next week. + +My question now is: If there is water coming out of the pee hole at a good clip, does that mean that the cylinder head is getting good cooling?","With no response from the community, I ordered a new thermostat with gasket along with a new pressure control valve with spring and grommet. Will install early next week. + +My question now is: If there is water coming out of the pee hole at a good clip, does that mean that the cylinder head is getting good cooling?",Sorry I can't tell from that diagram. Just operate the trim switch and see which relay is clicking. That will be the one and you should be able to quite easily trace the wires down towards the trim motor. +"Went fishing today. Motor ran perfectly when idling along. Went to go to a different spot about 2 miles away at 3/4 throttle and the boat started running rough after about a mile and a half and the overheat warning buzzer came on. Waited for about 20 minutes, restarted the engine and idled back to the boat ramp. The pump impeller was replaced about a year ago and there is an excellent pee stream. Any ideas on the problem will be greatly appreciated.","I would still look at the impeller and take some pictures for us. The impeller and it's base plate should look almost pristine.. no deformation in the fins and no gouges on the plate. To me, that's the most likely issue. Next time you get the warning, make sure the pee stream is actually hot. If it's cool or only slightly warm to the touch, it's probably not overheating and you have a bad thermoswitch or CDI unit.","I would still look at the impeller and take some pictures for us. The impeller and it's base plate should look almost pristine.. no deformation in the fins and no gouges on the plate. To me, that's the most likely issue. Next time you get the warning, make sure the pee stream is actually hot. If it's cool or only slightly warm to the touch, it's probably not overheating and you have a bad thermoswitch or CDI unit.","KJ gave a good analysis and recommendation. But before going down that route, I would suggest that you first adjust the zinc trim tab to tilt right as you are facing the boat from the rear and see if that helps. Theoretically, that trim tab, adjusted to the right, will force the right side down a bit, offsetting the list to the left. Given your description of your list to port, I suspect you will initially need to try a fairly radical angle, say 30 degrees off center. If that does help, then adjust incrementally until you get to the point where the list is gone and the steering on your boat doesn't ""pull"" one way or the other while on plane. + +Normally adjusting that trim tab is to offset torque from the prop so that your steering doesn't pull you one way or the other. However, on a smaller, lighter boat running a max RPM, that could also be contributing to the list that you describe." +"Went fishing today. Motor ran perfectly when idling along. Went to go to a different spot about 2 miles away at 3/4 throttle and the boat started running rough after about a mile and a half and the overheat warning buzzer came on. Waited for about 20 minutes, restarted the engine and idled back to the boat ramp. The pump impeller was replaced about a year ago and there is an excellent pee stream. Any ideas on the problem will be greatly appreciated.","rejesterd said: + + + + I would still look at the impeller and take some pictures for us. The impeller and it's base plate should look almost pristine.. no deformation in the fins and no gouges on the plate. To me, that's the most likely issue. Next time you get the warning, make sure the pee stream is actually hot. If it's cool or only slightly warm to the touch, it's probably not overheating and you have a bad thermoswitch or CDI unit. + +Click to expand... + +The thing that makes me think that the engine IS getting hot is that when the buzzer went off, the engine started running poorly. (missing).","rejesterd said: + + + + I would still look at the impeller and take some pictures for us. The impeller and it's base plate should look almost pristine.. no deformation in the fins and no gouges on the plate. To me, that's the most likely issue. Next time you get the warning, make sure the pee stream is actually hot. If it's cool or only slightly warm to the touch, it's probably not overheating and you have a bad thermoswitch or CDI unit. + +Click to expand... + +The thing that makes me think that the engine IS getting hot is that when the buzzer went off, the engine started running poorly. (missing).","The red wire is battery power. + +What is the complete engine ID. Begins with the number 6?" +"Went fishing today. Motor ran perfectly when idling along. Went to go to a different spot about 2 miles away at 3/4 throttle and the boat started running rough after about a mile and a half and the overheat warning buzzer came on. Waited for about 20 minutes, restarted the engine and idled back to the boat ramp. The pump impeller was replaced about a year ago and there is an excellent pee stream. Any ideas on the problem will be greatly appreciated.","fishfun83 said: + + + + The thing that makes me think that the engine IS getting hot is that when the buzzer went off, the engine started running poorly. (missing). + +Click to expand... + +I agree, it probably is getting hot.. but you have to confirm, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail. Most of the time, this is either an impeller or thermostat issue. But if it's not actually getting hot, then it's a sensor/computer/electrical issue.","fishfun83 said: + + + + The thing that makes me think that the engine IS getting hot is that when the buzzer went off, the engine started running poorly. (missing). + +Click to expand... + +I agree, it probably is getting hot.. but you have to confirm, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail. Most of the time, this is either an impeller or thermostat issue. But if it's not actually getting hot, then it's a sensor/computer/electrical issue.",My 90 hp had similar problem.changeing a 1 inch white plastic filter mounted on the back of the motor solved it. replaces a filter on the port side did not help +"Went fishing today. Motor ran perfectly when idling along. Went to go to a different spot about 2 miles away at 3/4 throttle and the boat started running rough after about a mile and a half and the overheat warning buzzer came on. Waited for about 20 minutes, restarted the engine and idled back to the boat ramp. The pump impeller was replaced about a year ago and there is an excellent pee stream. Any ideas on the problem will be greatly appreciated.","Thanks, i will check it out this weekend.","Thanks, i will check it out this weekend.",Cut the wire ties and remove the screws that hold the plastic piece that holds the fuel lines and you should be able to move everything just enough to get to the tstats. +"OK Guys.. I am throwing a hail mary on this one. Hopefully someone can help. I am having a engine knock when the motor is under load. I can idle at 1000 to 2000 all day without a problem. I can get up on plane without a problem even run at higher RPM's fine. When I go to take a corner, I hear a loud knock. I was told so many things it could be. From ""LEAN FUEL KNOCK?"" to the engine is shot.. I did have the pump from the external oil tank replaced right before this started. One other point, I did have older fuel in the tank when this issue started....I look forward to hearing the comments on this. +Thanks.",Check all motor mounts.----Including the lower mounts just above the water.,Check all motor mounts.----Including the lower mounts just above the water.,"Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + They don't really post the comp. figures because the results can vary so much with the +equipment and the procedures. + +The important thing is the results are all within 5% of each other. +My gauge on a 200 Yam gets 150# on a healthy motor. +A Harbor Freight gauge gets 110# some read worse?? + +Last week did a test on a 2 2005 200 hp +One motor had 150 all 6 +The other had 130 155 140 150 150 150 + +Get a good gauge and look on U tube for directions. + +What results did you get? +If all 6 are the same??? + +Click to expand... + + + +Hi Jerry, + +I did the test at cold engine and without any throttle and got 94 94 87 94 87 87 +With a lean engine and full throttle I got 101,5 101,5 95 101,5 95 95 + +Remember this Is a 2 stroke engine and a V6. So dont think I will ever end up at the 150 range anyway." +"OK Guys.. I am throwing a hail mary on this one. Hopefully someone can help. I am having a engine knock when the motor is under load. I can idle at 1000 to 2000 all day without a problem. I can get up on plane without a problem even run at higher RPM's fine. When I go to take a corner, I hear a loud knock. I was told so many things it could be. From ""LEAN FUEL KNOCK?"" to the engine is shot.. I did have the pump from the external oil tank replaced right before this started. One other point, I did have older fuel in the tank when this issue started....I look forward to hearing the comments on this. +Thanks.","If it only happens when you take corners, that doesn't seem like internal engine knocking. But typically, knocking occurs due to: + +1. Bad fuel +2. Bad spark plugs +3. Carbon buildup + +Considering the age of the engine, do a compression test on all cylinders. Takes 10 minutes and will confirm if your engine is still worth putting money into. + +If compression is ok, I would replace the spark plugs (and get the OEM plugs, which are probably NGK) and do a spark plug wire test as well. Also take pictures of the old plugs before you throw them away. If the knocking is due to having spark plugs with an incorrect heat range, you'll know because the plug tips will be white and blistering. + +If it still occurs after that, hooking up an auxiliary tank that has all fresh high-octane fuel in it. No need to treat it, just let the old fuel in the engine lines run out.. shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes. + +If it still occurs with high octane fuel, then I would clean/rebuild the carbs.","If it only happens when you take corners, that doesn't seem like internal engine knocking. But typically, knocking occurs due to: + +1. Bad fuel +2. Bad spark plugs +3. Carbon buildup + +Considering the age of the engine, do a compression test on all cylinders. Takes 10 minutes and will confirm if your engine is still worth putting money into. + +If compression is ok, I would replace the spark plugs (and get the OEM plugs, which are probably NGK) and do a spark plug wire test as well. Also take pictures of the old plugs before you throw them away. If the knocking is due to having spark plugs with an incorrect heat range, you'll know because the plug tips will be white and blistering. + +If it still occurs after that, hooking up an auxiliary tank that has all fresh high-octane fuel in it. No need to treat it, just let the old fuel in the engine lines run out.. shouldn't take more than 20-30 minutes. + +If it still occurs with high octane fuel, then I would clean/rebuild the carbs.",Received the tank I got off ebay. It is good shape inside and out except it leaked from around the fuel indicator window. Noticed it when I was sloshing it out upside down removing some fuel while flushing it out. The plastic window was deformed. Hard to explain how it's assembled but I've tried making a new one to hold the molded gasket into shape. That is covered by a piece of glass then sandwiched between the gasket and plastic screwed down. This made in Japan tank is different than a OMC metal tank. There are no parts available for the vent assembly and I'm assuming the whole assembly is replaced. Called Yamaha and they said the assembly is no longer made by them. Kind of wish I just bought a new plastic Yamaha tank now. +"I have a 2016 with twin yamahas with 230 hours im thinking about buying. +All cylinders came back with psi around 260. +Seems high? Why so high? What is the cause? +This is on all the engines and all the cylinders.",Try a different compression gauge.,Try a different compression gauge.,"Bargello Perfume said: + + + + i hav a selva (yamaha) 4 hp 4 stroke and when i opened to check the engine oil i found it is like milk + +Click to expand... + + +Generally means there is water in the oil...might not be a good thing that it is milky..." +"I have a 2016 with twin yamahas with 230 hours im thinking about buying. +All cylinders came back with psi around 260. +Seems high? Why so high? What is the cause? +This is on all the engines and all the cylinders.",That is the second one,That is the second one,"I've used KiwiGrip, and it is a decent deck surface, and relatively easy to apply if you follow the instructions closely. It's not easy on bare feet because of it's rather aggressive ""knobs"". But you can thin it out if you need to. It goes on like a thick yogurt, and you use a special ""comb"" to spread it out. I put it on over painted fiberglass that had been sanded down. However, I'm not sure how it would do on wood. On the Internet, you can find several videos on application. Jamestown Distributors sells it, and there are a lot of FAQ's and Q&A's about it on their sight. + +On of the really nice things about KiwiGrip is that if it gets damaged, you can paint over the damage and it blends right in with the original coat." +"I have a 2016 with twin yamahas with 230 hours im thinking about buying. +All cylinders came back with psi around 260. +Seems high? Why so high? What is the cause? +This is on all the engines and all the cylinders.","Not being a wise ass but, where did you get the comp gauge?","Not being a wise ass but, where did you get the comp gauge?",Did you back of 1/4 turn loose on the nut after getting it tight? The proper way is to jack the tire up and tighten the nut until the tire will not spin free. Loosen the nut 1/4 turn and then install the keeper and cotter pin. Then install the bearing buddy and pump it with grease until the grease pushes slightly out on the center of the bearing buddy. +"I have a 2016 with twin yamahas with 230 hours im thinking about buying. +All cylinders came back with psi around 260. +Seems high? Why so high? What is the cause? +This is on all the engines and all the cylinders.",The marina did the check for me,The marina did the check for me,Well after my jet ski blew an engine because the mixer failed I’ve always worried about the mixer on my last engine. I’ve never lost an engine that premixed yet so hopefully it doesn’t happen now. The marina I bought it from had it removed. I think everything is still there if I wanted to change it. +"I have a 2016 with twin yamahas with 230 hours im thinking about buying. +All cylinders came back with psi around 260. +Seems high? Why so high? What is the cause? +This is on all the engines and all the cylinders.","OK, My guess is the engine was put up for the winter and oiled well. Oil in the cylinders will spike compression. I would run the engine, get it up to temp and the numbers will probably change.","OK, My guess is the engine was put up for the winter and oiled well. Oil in the cylinders will spike compression. I would run the engine, get it up to temp and the numbers will probably change.","So just to update. I have brand new fuel, checked compression on all three cylinders 110 in each, spark on all three checked fuel lines they are all good most of them are all new. I was told might be a lean sneeze/ vacuum leak." +"I have a 2016 with twin yamahas with 230 hours im thinking about buying. +All cylinders came back with psi around 260. +Seems high? Why so high? What is the cause? +This is on all the engines and all the cylinders.",Run seafoam or ringsfree and check again,Run seafoam or ringsfree and check again,"I thought about that question 30 years ago and used a coating from a machine shop that was used to coat machined threads on bolts so they wouldn't get damaged in shipping. I can't remember what the material was called but if you can find a machine shop they would know what it is. All I remember was it dried like a plastic coating. + + By the way the springs will last forever . It's the metal fittings that hold the springs together that will go first." +"I have a 2016 with twin yamahas with 230 hours im thinking about buying. +All cylinders came back with psi around 260. +Seems high? Why so high? What is the cause? +This is on all the engines and all the cylinders.","Like Chris said, warm up the engine first. Also, my service manual says to fully open the throttle as well when you crank it.","Like Chris said, warm up the engine first. Also, my service manual says to fully open the throttle as well when you crank it.",Clean the carburetors. +"2003 F90TLR 4-stroke - can't start. Battery full, new fuel pump and spark plugs, Eth.free gas, bulb pumped hard, Turns over strong but just won't fire. Any suggestions what it might be appreciated?","So the engine cranks well but doesn't start. + + +It's likely one of the following: + + +1. No spark is actually being produced. Changing the spark plugs was a fine thing to do, but you have to actually confirm that each wire is producing spark. Get a spark plug wire tester from any auto parts store.. very cheap and useful. If the wires are producing a strong spark and you recently replaced the plugs, assume everything is good there. If no spark is being produced, start working backwards from the spark plug wire, to the coils, to the main wire harness on the engine, to the starter switch, to the starter relay, and all the way to the engine stop lanyard. Eventually you'll find the problem part by testing for continuity at each of these places. + + +2. Not enough fuel is being delivered. When you turn the key to the ON position (without trying to crank it), can you hear the electric fuel pump whir for a few seconds? If not, check the fuse for it. If the electrical pump seems fine, check the fuel pressure. If the pressure is way off, start looking at the injectors. If the pressure is fine, check the vapor separator and the pressure regulator. If those are fine, check the fuel rail for leaks. If that's fine, check the fuel filter and fuel lines for clogs. Then move onto the mechanical fuel pump and the vapor separator needle. + + +This is all straight out of the service manual, which you should definitely buy if you don't have it. Well worth the $90 or whatever it is. It will tell you exactly how to test all this stuff and what order to do it in.","So the engine cranks well but doesn't start. + + +It's likely one of the following: + + +1. No spark is actually being produced. Changing the spark plugs was a fine thing to do, but you have to actually confirm that each wire is producing spark. Get a spark plug wire tester from any auto parts store.. very cheap and useful. If the wires are producing a strong spark and you recently replaced the plugs, assume everything is good there. If no spark is being produced, start working backwards from the spark plug wire, to the coils, to the main wire harness on the engine, to the starter switch, to the starter relay, and all the way to the engine stop lanyard. Eventually you'll find the problem part by testing for continuity at each of these places. + + +2. Not enough fuel is being delivered. When you turn the key to the ON position (without trying to crank it), can you hear the electric fuel pump whir for a few seconds? If not, check the fuse for it. If the electrical pump seems fine, check the fuel pressure. If the pressure is way off, start looking at the injectors. If the pressure is fine, check the vapor separator and the pressure regulator. If those are fine, check the fuel rail for leaks. If that's fine, check the fuel filter and fuel lines for clogs. Then move onto the mechanical fuel pump and the vapor separator needle. + + +This is all straight out of the service manual, which you should definitely buy if you don't have it. Well worth the $90 or whatever it is. It will tell you exactly how to test all this stuff and what order to do it in.","Well said Jim,let's hope everyone reads this thread." +"I just bought this motor, hooking up on my pontoon boat. Bolted it on. Removed merc controls. Installed electrical cables to motor, Installed shift and throttle to motor, not to binnacle yet. Hooked up electrical, tachometer, key switch, a two position toggle that I suspect is the choke? The tilt and trim work. I shifted the binnacle to neutral (Cables not connected yet) and turned on the key to the run position. did not crank. The alarm went off, a continuous tone that does not change. It continues for at least a minute, i turned it back to off and it quit. The man I bought it from cranked and ran it two days ago. I'm wondering, is it a low battery alarm? maybe the motor is in gear and it knows that? I filled the oil tank up and it still does the same thing, shouldnt be a low oil, as far as I can tell. I'll go move the motor to neutral and see if that fixes it. I have no water attached yet, could that be it? I also do not have the fuel tank connected. I am about to go buy the connectors for the cable to binnacle mount and the connector for the fuel tank, My stuff is mercury and I want new stuff anyway. +Help?",With Yam motor/controls...if alarm activates when turning key to ON position this is usually associated w/low volts. Check ur cranking battery...shud be min 12.7v,With Yam motor/controls...if alarm activates when turning key to ON position this is usually associated w/low volts. Check ur cranking battery...shud be min 12.7v,Tacho is broko. Removo and replaco. +"Have the Yamaha T 50 4 stroke. Here in Florida some folks run the garden hose through the engine, engine off. Others says it is much better to use muffs and turn engine on. Any views please? + +As you see I'm a rookie but loving my first skiff.",Running the engine on muffs is better because the engine reaches operating temp and thermostat opens allowing full flow through system whereas a cold flush does not,Running the engine on muffs is better because the engine reaches operating temp and thermostat opens allowing full flow through system whereas a cold flush does not,"crabclaw said: + + + + My guage reads full at all times when the key is on. Does this mean that the guage is bad or the sending unit is bad? + +Crabclaw + +Click to expand... + + +No - When the switch is off the guage reads empty. Just when the ignition is on then it reads full at all times. For example, I ran the boat 3 times for a considerable distance and it still showed full but I put 30 gallons of gas in my tank. I just do not wish to buy both the gauge and the sending unit and have find one of the 2 good. + +Crabclaw" +"Have the Yamaha T 50 4 stroke. Here in Florida some folks run the garden hose through the engine, engine off. Others says it is much better to use muffs and turn engine on. Any views please? + +As you see I'm a rookie but loving my first skiff.","Per Yam there are 3 methods for flushing....muff, cowling hose, and bag. Which method depends on size of motor...>150hp can overheat on muff. This topic is thoroughly debated without 1 proven method being better than the other. + +This link provides some good reading....a few posts are authored by master yam mechanics + +****://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/forum/general-discussion/yamaha-outboard-forum/24015-muff-flush-vs-hose-flush","Per Yam there are 3 methods for flushing....muff, cowling hose, and bag. Which method depends on size of motor...>150hp can overheat on muff. This topic is thoroughly debated without 1 proven method being better than the other. + +This link provides some good reading....a few posts are authored by master yam mechanics + +****://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/forum/general-discussion/yamaha-outboard-forum/24015-muff-flush-vs-hose-flush","I also have a T50 operating in saltwater.Cooling passage blockage is the biggest long term problem with these engines,otherwise these motors are tough as nails.Do a salt away flush and then every 6 months always fresh water flush.Are you mechanically minded?My second post and have'nt figured out how to post pics yet,but i do have of this very problem." +"Have the Yamaha T 50 4 stroke. Here in Florida some folks run the garden hose through the engine, engine off. Others says it is much better to use muffs and turn engine on. Any views please? + +As you see I'm a rookie but loving my first skiff.","I also have a T50 operating in saltwater.Cooling passage blockage is the biggest long term problem with these engines,otherwise these motors are tough as nails.Do a salt away flush and then every 6 months always fresh water flush.Are you mechanically minded?My second post and have'nt figured out how to post pics yet,but i do have of this very problem.","I also have a T50 operating in saltwater.Cooling passage blockage is the biggest long term problem with these engines,otherwise these motors are tough as nails.Do a salt away flush and then every 6 months always fresh water flush.Are you mechanically minded?My second post and have'nt figured out how to post pics yet,but i do have of this very problem.",Careful and cautious use of a torch can be of benefit but you need to be very diligent as there's a huge potential for fire if you aren't careful. +"Have the Yamaha T 50 4 stroke. Here in Florida some folks run the garden hose through the engine, engine off. Others says it is much better to use muffs and turn engine on. Any views please? + +As you see I'm a rookie but loving my first skiff.",Why can't i upload pics do i need 10 post?,Why can't i upload pics do i need 10 post?,"You can find detergent to clean it. You can see there are many consultants using different detergents. Consider which one suits the boat and of course for your own money. +I often delve into the types of products I'm going to use. Spending time searching for information about the product will make you feel much more secure. I found a sharing place about the cleaners of the boats very well. You can take the time and search for it" +"My first new engine, a Tohatsu 302t I sprayed uner the engine cover with Waxoyl which gave super protection and when I came to sell it after 7 years I steam cleaned it and it was immaculate BUT in the meantime picked up dirt and looked awful and was a bit sticky to handle things under the cover. My second engine a Tohatsu 20 4T I sparayed with WD40 and it has not done as well having a fair bit of rust on all the bolt heads and other metal parts and some corrosion on the ali casting lower casing after 7 years use but only 350h hours(sail catamaran). +What is the best spray on corrosion preventative for under an outboard engine cover on an outboard that protects but does not attractive dirt?","Ummm....none. By the way, this is the yamaha forum. So ill suggest to you the same as if you owned a yamaha....does your yamaha owners manual state that you should spray anti-corrosion to the engine or anything else under the cowling? Nada. The reason you're seeing grimm build up is because the spray on is attracting it. Always follow procedures in owners manual...if it says do it, then do it. If it does not say do it...","Ummm....none. By the way, this is the yamaha forum. So ill suggest to you the same as if you owned a yamaha....does your yamaha owners manual state that you should spray anti-corrosion to the engine or anything else under the cowling? Nada. The reason you're seeing grimm build up is because the spray on is attracting it. Always follow procedures in owners manual...if it says do it, then do it. If it does not say do it...",It's not that one it's the one on the other end that attaches to the cable. +"My first new engine, a Tohatsu 302t I sprayed uner the engine cover with Waxoyl which gave super protection and when I came to sell it after 7 years I steam cleaned it and it was immaculate BUT in the meantime picked up dirt and looked awful and was a bit sticky to handle things under the cover. My second engine a Tohatsu 20 4T I sparayed with WD40 and it has not done as well having a fair bit of rust on all the bolt heads and other metal parts and some corrosion on the ali casting lower casing after 7 years use but only 350h hours(sail catamaran). +What is the best spray on corrosion preventative for under an outboard engine cover on an outboard that protects but does not attractive dirt?","Actually, Yamaha does recommend that the power plant/power head be sprayed so as to help keep corrosion at bay. They even published a youtube video about it. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_I9vYz9qVc + +I imagine that Tohatsu/Honda would say the same.","Actually, Yamaha does recommend that the power plant/power head be sprayed so as to help keep corrosion at bay. They even published a youtube video about it. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_I9vYz9qVc + +I imagine that Tohatsu/Honda would say the same.","Good question, I am going to guess a quart usable before the alarm sounds and 1/2 quart reserve." +"My first new engine, a Tohatsu 302t I sprayed uner the engine cover with Waxoyl which gave super protection and when I came to sell it after 7 years I steam cleaned it and it was immaculate BUT in the meantime picked up dirt and looked awful and was a bit sticky to handle things under the cover. My second engine a Tohatsu 20 4T I sparayed with WD40 and it has not done as well having a fair bit of rust on all the bolt heads and other metal parts and some corrosion on the ali casting lower casing after 7 years use but only 350h hours(sail catamaran). +What is the best spray on corrosion preventative for under an outboard engine cover on an outboard that protects but does not attractive dirt?",From a Yamaha owner's manual:,From a Yamaha owner's manual:,"How long have you owned it ?----You say "" it has had a few problems "" -please give those details." +"My first new engine, a Tohatsu 302t I sprayed uner the engine cover with Waxoyl which gave super protection and when I came to sell it after 7 years I steam cleaned it and it was immaculate BUT in the meantime picked up dirt and looked awful and was a bit sticky to handle things under the cover. My second engine a Tohatsu 20 4T I sparayed with WD40 and it has not done as well having a fair bit of rust on all the bolt heads and other metal parts and some corrosion on the ali casting lower casing after 7 years use but only 350h hours(sail catamaran). +What is the best spray on corrosion preventative for under an outboard engine cover on an outboard that protects but does not attractive dirt?",Thanks for the info - I will get some of this Silicone spray!,Thanks for the info - I will get some of this Silicone spray!,"racerone said: + + + + Many boats have suffered from cheap / poor quality foam.-----Remove all the waterlogged foam.----Then it will float properly again. + +Click to expand... + + Cool, thanks. Glad I dont need to buy foam or anything, can just close it back up=)" +"My first new engine, a Tohatsu 302t I sprayed uner the engine cover with Waxoyl which gave super protection and when I came to sell it after 7 years I steam cleaned it and it was immaculate BUT in the meantime picked up dirt and looked awful and was a bit sticky to handle things under the cover. My second engine a Tohatsu 20 4T I sparayed with WD40 and it has not done as well having a fair bit of rust on all the bolt heads and other metal parts and some corrosion on the ali casting lower casing after 7 years use but only 350h hours(sail catamaran). +What is the best spray on corrosion preventative for under an outboard engine cover on an outboard that protects but does not attractive dirt?","Cat Ballou,i also run a 51ft charter cat in Caribbean salt water YAMAHA FT60 four stroke,CRC also makes a similar product with a waxy finish that attracts dirt probably the same thing.I can tell you nothing works like that stuff.Forget the dust on it just do it,you can also clean it down with a paint brush and some deisel oil when you feel like or years later and the motor looks like new.You can't reinvent that wheel with some sewing oil in a can.","Cat Ballou,i also run a 51ft charter cat in Caribbean salt water YAMAHA FT60 four stroke,CRC also makes a similar product with a waxy finish that attracts dirt probably the same thing.I can tell you nothing works like that stuff.Forget the dust on it just do it,you can also clean it down with a paint brush and some deisel oil when you feel like or years later and the motor looks like new.You can't reinvent that wheel with some sewing oil in a can.","Underneath and at the back of the rear , lower cowling." +"Hello all, + +an an age old question I’m sure but is anyone able to help me translate this code. + +F60AET +69W +L405336 +R + +got as much as four stroke 60 hp, electric start, long shaft. + +Many thanks.","2002 model year. + +There should be a sticker on the side of the motor with the month and year of manufacture. Year of manufacture could be in 2001 even though it is a 2002 model year motor.","2002 model year. + +There should be a sticker on the side of the motor with the month and year of manufacture. Year of manufacture could be in 2001 even though it is a 2002 model year motor.","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,.... Rotten wood, 'n the general over all condition of the motor, 'n drive,.... + +A Maxum is but 1 step above a Bayliner,.... + +Click to expand... + + +I'm not to experienced with the drive. What should I look for?" +"I have a skeeter ST15 that I just upgraded the motor on. It had a 50hp Yamaha 2 stroke and I changed it to a 70hp Yamaha 2 stroke. With the 50 I was getting a top speed of about 30mph. Now with the 70 I get on plane much faster but there has been no increase in top speed...…. Any ideas what could cause that? Unfortunately my tac isn't reading right so I don't know the RPMs at full throttle. + +Thanks.",Where was the 70 HP mounted before ?----Sounds like you need more pitch on the prop.-----What pitch is the prop on the 70 HP motor ?,Where was the 70 HP mounted before ?----Sounds like you need more pitch on the prop.-----What pitch is the prop on the 70 HP motor ?,2005 Yamaha 150hp 2 stroke 150TXRD +"I have a skeeter ST15 that I just upgraded the motor on. It had a 50hp Yamaha 2 stroke and I changed it to a 70hp Yamaha 2 stroke. With the 50 I was getting a top speed of about 30mph. Now with the 70 I get on plane much faster but there has been no increase in top speed...…. Any ideas what could cause that? Unfortunately my tac isn't reading right so I don't know the RPMs at full throttle. + +Thanks.","I'm not sure what the prop was mounted on previously. If I'm reading it right the prop is a 13 5/8"" and a 13 pitch. Looks like it actually says 13k but it's hard to tell.","I'm not sure what the prop was mounted on previously. If I'm reading it right the prop is a 13 5/8"" and a 13 pitch. Looks like it actually says 13k but it's hard to tell.","Which ""separator""did you replace? And I'm assuming you have a nice big Racor or equivalent diesel-type water separator fuel filter somewhere in the fuel line between the tank and the motor? + +Also assume you've cleaned any water out of the fuel filter at the left rear of the engine? I'm assuming one's there since my 2007 F115TXR has got one there; and if it fills enough with water you'll get a constant dribble of water to the injectors. If you don't have a big water separator as I mentioned, just the engine ones, that can tend to mess everything up and a system like you have gave me the symptoms you're describing until I put a big Racor water separator in the line from the tank to the motor. + +If you've got water in your tank because there was a leak or simply because you got some ethanol gas by mistake, it's hygroscopic as all get-out (means it sucks water into the gas right out of the air!). You could have a bunch of water in your fuel tank, and that's really the problem: you keep running water/gas into your motor. + +I don't know about all the parts you're replacing, but I DO know that if you get the engine revving high enough (you're saying WOT running is OK, right?), then it'll burn a small amount of water coming in with the fuel and not sputter a bit. Mine did. It had the exact symptoms you're describing. + +When you start the engine cold, any water in the fuel filter/separator has SEPARATED so that the gas is on top and the water at the bottom. That's why it starts when it's cold, but doesn't after turning it off for 15 minutes; because it's still HOT then. I think maybe after 15 minutes, the engine is still so hot that the water in the filter/separator is kind of ""mixed"" with the gas. Engines don't bang over on that mixture. + +When you perform one of the repair actions you described, the motor is cold the next time you start it, and starts because the gas has separated and floated to the top of the water in the filter; it's not mixed with the water yet. The water will come in in a while, and mix with the gas, but your motor can handle a small dribble of water with the fuel IF IT'S ALREADY WARM. + +I learned the hard way by just relying on the engine water filter/separator that it can work this way. Put on a big Racor, and found I had a LOT of water in my ethanol-horsemanure fuel. Drained the water out of the Racor (frequently, big visible bowl so it's easy to see how much water you've got in your separator), burned my way through that tankful, then never again filled with ethanol; ethanol-free all the way now! + +Check it out; this happened to me. + +With Warm Aloha, Tim" +"Hello. I just bought a ""rebuilt"" Yamaha 70hp 2-stroke. I believe it's a 2001 model. When I have the fuel enrichment set to normal the boat runs rough and will over heat after about 5 minutes. If I switch it to open it will run without overheating but it doesn't perform as well as I expected it to. It topped out at 30mph which is about the same I was getting with a 50hp on the same boat. + + + +The water flow seems good so I'm stumped as to why it's overheating. My thought was maybe it's running lean in the normal setting so it overheats but when set to open it's getting more fuel so doesn't have the problem. I may be way off with that diagnosis.... Any suggestions? + +Thanks!",Just so I understand. The fuel enrichment. Is that the choke?,Just so I understand. The fuel enrichment. Is that the choke?,"the 'normal' fuel sending unit is a variable resistor driven by a float on the end of the arm. They are usually located on the top of the tank. + +the quick check for the gauge is to remove the sender wire at the gauge. momentarily connect a jumper between the sender and the ground wire on the gauge...and the gauge should deflect to full scale (pegged). a better test is to use resistors to replace the sender. 33 ohms (sender to ground) should give you indicated full scale and 110 ohms should be 1/2 tank, and 240 ohms should be empty. + +If the gauge works fine, you can use an ohm meter to measure the gauge - between the sender terminal and the mounting plate (which should be at ground potential) - it should be between 240 and 33 ohms, depending upon how much fuel is in the tank...if on a trailer, you can move the rig to a hill to get the float to change position. + +Many times, the wiring (connections) between the gauge and the sender are in poor shape..." +"Hello. I just bought a ""rebuilt"" Yamaha 70hp 2-stroke. I believe it's a 2001 model. When I have the fuel enrichment set to normal the boat runs rough and will over heat after about 5 minutes. If I switch it to open it will run without overheating but it doesn't perform as well as I expected it to. It topped out at 30mph which is about the same I was getting with a 50hp on the same boat. + + + +The water flow seems good so I'm stumped as to why it's overheating. My thought was maybe it's running lean in the normal setting so it overheats but when set to open it's getting more fuel so doesn't have the problem. I may be way off with that diagnosis.... Any suggestions? + +Thanks!",We fixed it. The guy I bought it from said he cleaned the carbs and put a new impeller in it. He lied... The jets were filthy and the impeller was old and had all but two of the flanges broken off. We cleaned the carbs and replaced the impeller. Runs pretty good now with the enrichment valve set to normal. Still only get about 31mph out of it though which doesn't seem right.,We fixed it. The guy I bought it from said he cleaned the carbs and put a new impeller in it. He lied... The jets were filthy and the impeller was old and had all but two of the flanges broken off. We cleaned the carbs and replaced the impeller. Runs pretty good now with the enrichment valve set to normal. Still only get about 31mph out of it though which doesn't seem right.,F150 and 2 stroke ??-------------------Post the model number of your motor first. +"After dropping my lower unit several times now trying to figure out why my 6 hp wont pee, I pulled the thermostat and it's fairly corroded and apparently non-functioning. I installed new impeller and get plenty of water discharge at prop but no tell tale. I have cleaned every water line I can find, sprayed water through them and nothing comes from the pee holes. I am considering running motor without thermostat to see if it is the problem. Every dealer and forum I talk to says it should pee. After impeller change, motor never overheats, but no pee. Long story short, if it won't pee without thermostat, it either isn't meant to pee, or something is clogged in block. I have ordered a new thermostat, but I just want to make sure it is safe to run it temporarily without. Any help is greatly appreciated.","The thermostat serves to regulate a constant temperature throughout the powerhead. It also provides a needed restrictor to cause the water jacket to fill completely with water, thereby circulating cooling water to the entire powerhead. The top area being most critical because it absorbs the most heat from the cylinder(s) in every motor. Without the thermostat there is NO restriction to water flow through the powerhead and the cooling water of course takes the path of least resistance and just flows unrestricted out the water exits without completely filling the powerhead water jacket. The top of the powerhead receives less cooling water and develops hot spots and early metal fatigue related failures. It doesn't hurt to run the motor for a short time without it just to check if this will cure the lack of a tell-tale stream but I would be very surprised if it does. If you found the old thermostat severely corroded there is a good chance that the interior walls of the cooling jacket are also corroded and the nipple to the tell-tale outlet is blocked with this corrosion or some other object. With the thermostat out you should be able to blow air into the tell-tale outlet and hear or feel it being passed through with the thermostat cover off. If not you're going to need to run some stainless wire or similar up into that tubing till it clears the obstacle out. If you see a lot of corrosion in the water jacket you can spray some CLR into the water jacket and let it clean it out, then flush it thoroughly with water. + + +-Mike","The thermostat serves to regulate a constant temperature throughout the powerhead. It also provides a needed restrictor to cause the water jacket to fill completely with water, thereby circulating cooling water to the entire powerhead. The top area being most critical because it absorbs the most heat from the cylinder(s) in every motor. Without the thermostat there is NO restriction to water flow through the powerhead and the cooling water of course takes the path of least resistance and just flows unrestricted out the water exits without completely filling the powerhead water jacket. The top of the powerhead receives less cooling water and develops hot spots and early metal fatigue related failures. It doesn't hurt to run the motor for a short time without it just to check if this will cure the lack of a tell-tale stream but I would be very surprised if it does. If you found the old thermostat severely corroded there is a good chance that the interior walls of the cooling jacket are also corroded and the nipple to the tell-tale outlet is blocked with this corrosion or some other object. With the thermostat out you should be able to blow air into the tell-tale outlet and hear or feel it being passed through with the thermostat cover off. If not you're going to need to run some stainless wire or similar up into that tubing till it clears the obstacle out. If you see a lot of corrosion in the water jacket you can spray some CLR into the water jacket and let it clean it out, then flush it thoroughly with water. + + +-Mike","Old fuel from last year? New fuel mixed with old? History on motor would help, First use this year? New owner of engine and boat? Was it stored properly last season? Serial # might help,year, What's your starting procedure? Any problems last year? The fact that once started she runs great eliminates compression and spark issues, Pull a fuel bowl and take a look before pulling carbs,it might give a clue, if not thread #2, Pull carbs,soak and clean thoroughly every nook and cranny,jets etc." +"After dropping my lower unit several times now trying to figure out why my 6 hp wont pee, I pulled the thermostat and it's fairly corroded and apparently non-functioning. I installed new impeller and get plenty of water discharge at prop but no tell tale. I have cleaned every water line I can find, sprayed water through them and nothing comes from the pee holes. I am considering running motor without thermostat to see if it is the problem. Every dealer and forum I talk to says it should pee. After impeller change, motor never overheats, but no pee. Long story short, if it won't pee without thermostat, it either isn't meant to pee, or something is clogged in block. I have ordered a new thermostat, but I just want to make sure it is safe to run it temporarily without. Any help is greatly appreciated.","Saved my 9.9 by using ""saltaway"" , I use it with the adapter after every outing, cheap insurance. after completely clogged cooling passages in my 9.9 (previous owener) soaking it through the thermostat housing, disolved the salt and now have a great engine1","Saved my 9.9 by using ""saltaway"" , I use it with the adapter after every outing, cheap insurance. after completely clogged cooling passages in my 9.9 (previous owener) soaking it through the thermostat housing, disolved the salt and now have a great engine1","Hello and thanks for your time coueytwo. My brother said as soon as it slows down, he shuts it off. waits maybe a few seconds and starts it up again and has full power like it would normally until it begins to slow down again.thanks for your help, +shaughnny" +"After dropping my lower unit several times now trying to figure out why my 6 hp wont pee, I pulled the thermostat and it's fairly corroded and apparently non-functioning. I installed new impeller and get plenty of water discharge at prop but no tell tale. I have cleaned every water line I can find, sprayed water through them and nothing comes from the pee holes. I am considering running motor without thermostat to see if it is the problem. Every dealer and forum I talk to says it should pee. After impeller change, motor never overheats, but no pee. Long story short, if it won't pee without thermostat, it either isn't meant to pee, or something is clogged in block. I have ordered a new thermostat, but I just want to make sure it is safe to run it temporarily without. Any help is greatly appreciated.","Found problem. After hours of looking for a diagram of water passages online, I stumbled across a video of an 8 hp 2stroke yamaha with the tell tale shooting from side of motor instead of the two small exhaust holes where I was expecting to find it. Sure enough, small single hole fitting underneath motor with some calcium build up on it. Poked a coat hanger in it, started, and voila, tell tale. Everyone I have asked told me the tell tale should be the two exhaust ports in the back. Could've saved me a lot of trouble if I could've found one person familiar with these smaller Yamahas. One thing I have learned. Yamahas get a lot of praise as good motors everywhere I look, but after pricing the few parts I have for this little motor, this will be the only one I will ever own. With standard shipping, thermostat and small bushing that holds it in was $40....for a thermostat. Ridiculous. Motor really needs a new clamp bracket as one is cracked...price? $125!! In excellent condition, the whole motor has a value of a couple hundred bucks. Now I am resigned to JB Weld and some type of reinforcement. A broken motor mount should not be the end of a good motor for a ridiculously over priced part. Anyway...that's my rant. Not complaining about this forum, mostly the dealers I talked to who assured me the tell tale was the two small holes in back EVEN when I asked if it could be somewhere else.","Found problem. After hours of looking for a diagram of water passages online, I stumbled across a video of an 8 hp 2stroke yamaha with the tell tale shooting from side of motor instead of the two small exhaust holes where I was expecting to find it. Sure enough, small single hole fitting underneath motor with some calcium build up on it. Poked a coat hanger in it, started, and voila, tell tale. Everyone I have asked told me the tell tale should be the two exhaust ports in the back. Could've saved me a lot of trouble if I could've found one person familiar with these smaller Yamahas. One thing I have learned. Yamahas get a lot of praise as good motors everywhere I look, but after pricing the few parts I have for this little motor, this will be the only one I will ever own. With standard shipping, thermostat and small bushing that holds it in was $40....for a thermostat. Ridiculous. Motor really needs a new clamp bracket as one is cracked...price? $125!! In excellent condition, the whole motor has a value of a couple hundred bucks. Now I am resigned to JB Weld and some type of reinforcement. A broken motor mount should not be the end of a good motor for a ridiculously over priced part. Anyway...that's my rant. Not complaining about this forum, mostly the dealers I talked to who assured me the tell tale was the two small holes in back EVEN when I asked if it could be somewhere else.",run with 50:1 mix. +"After dropping my lower unit several times now trying to figure out why my 6 hp wont pee, I pulled the thermostat and it's fairly corroded and apparently non-functioning. I installed new impeller and get plenty of water discharge at prop but no tell tale. I have cleaned every water line I can find, sprayed water through them and nothing comes from the pee holes. I am considering running motor without thermostat to see if it is the problem. Every dealer and forum I talk to says it should pee. After impeller change, motor never overheats, but no pee. Long story short, if it won't pee without thermostat, it either isn't meant to pee, or something is clogged in block. I have ordered a new thermostat, but I just want to make sure it is safe to run it temporarily without. Any help is greatly appreciated.","Hamfisted said: + + + + The thermostat serves to regulate a constant temperature throughout the powerhead. It also provides a needed restrictor to cause the water jacket to fill completely with water, thereby circulating cooling water to the entire powerhead. The top area being most critical because it absorbs the most heat from the cylinder(s) in every motor. Without the thermostat there is NO restriction to water flow through the powerhead and the cooling water of course takes the path of least resistance and just flows unrestricted out the water exits without completely filling the powerhead water jacket. The top of the powerhead receives less cooling water and develops hot spots and early metal fatigue related failures. It doesn't hurt to run the motor for a short time without it just to check if this will cure the lack of a tell-tale stream but I would be very surprised if it does. If you found the old thermostat severely corroded there is a good chance that the interior walls of the cooling jacket are also corroded and the nipple to the tell-tale outlet is blocked with this corrosion or some other object. With the thermostat out you should be able to blow air into the tell-tale outlet and hear or feel it being passed through with the thermostat cover off. If not you're going to need to run some stainless wire or similar up into that tubing till it clears the obstacle out. If you see a lot of corrosion in the water jacket you can spray some CLR into the water jacket and let it clean it out, then flush it thoroughly with water. + + +HI....I see you haven't been on here in a long time but I ran across your reply to the OP and it's of great help. I'm trying to get water out of the bleedhole and something inside that water jacket must be clogged. With the motor running, I have water coming out of the thermostat area when it's removed, so I know the impeller is working. I also know that the bleedhole tube and the tube forming a U on the bottom of the water jacket is free and clear. Something inside that water jacket must be completely blocking the flow as when I try to shoot air through one of the tube ends, it just blows the tube off the nipple. Even shooting air straight into the nipple builds up pressure and essentially blows the air nozzle off. No air comes out of the thermostat area like you suggest. What would you recommend? Can that water jacket be disassembled? And do I shoot that CLR into those nipples on the water jacket? I don't know how it would penetrate into it but perhaps that'll work? + +Thanks in advance if you get this message!!! + + +-Mike + + + +View attachment 5276 + +Click to expand...","Hamfisted said: + + + + The thermostat serves to regulate a constant temperature throughout the powerhead. It also provides a needed restrictor to cause the water jacket to fill completely with water, thereby circulating cooling water to the entire powerhead. The top area being most critical because it absorbs the most heat from the cylinder(s) in every motor. Without the thermostat there is NO restriction to water flow through the powerhead and the cooling water of course takes the path of least resistance and just flows unrestricted out the water exits without completely filling the powerhead water jacket. The top of the powerhead receives less cooling water and develops hot spots and early metal fatigue related failures. It doesn't hurt to run the motor for a short time without it just to check if this will cure the lack of a tell-tale stream but I would be very surprised if it does. If you found the old thermostat severely corroded there is a good chance that the interior walls of the cooling jacket are also corroded and the nipple to the tell-tale outlet is blocked with this corrosion or some other object. With the thermostat out you should be able to blow air into the tell-tale outlet and hear or feel it being passed through with the thermostat cover off. If not you're going to need to run some stainless wire or similar up into that tubing till it clears the obstacle out. If you see a lot of corrosion in the water jacket you can spray some CLR into the water jacket and let it clean it out, then flush it thoroughly with water. + + +HI....I see you haven't been on here in a long time but I ran across your reply to the OP and it's of great help. I'm trying to get water out of the bleedhole and something inside that water jacket must be clogged. With the motor running, I have water coming out of the thermostat area when it's removed, so I know the impeller is working. I also know that the bleedhole tube and the tube forming a U on the bottom of the water jacket is free and clear. Something inside that water jacket must be completely blocking the flow as when I try to shoot air through one of the tube ends, it just blows the tube off the nipple. Even shooting air straight into the nipple builds up pressure and essentially blows the air nozzle off. No air comes out of the thermostat area like you suggest. What would you recommend? Can that water jacket be disassembled? And do I shoot that CLR into those nipples on the water jacket? I don't know how it would penetrate into it but perhaps that'll work? + +Thanks in advance if you get this message!!! + + +-Mike + + + +View attachment 5276 + +Click to expand...","Jim, + +CPES can be used with the west product. I'm not sure of your location, however, since the home port on the stern of your boat reads Isle of Man, I presume you are in the UK. You can find Smith's on Ebay if need be. + +Here's a link, another dish if you will, on the table of food for thought: +http://www.star-distributing.com/smith/cpeswhy.html" +"After dropping my lower unit several times now trying to figure out why my 6 hp wont pee, I pulled the thermostat and it's fairly corroded and apparently non-functioning. I installed new impeller and get plenty of water discharge at prop but no tell tale. I have cleaned every water line I can find, sprayed water through them and nothing comes from the pee holes. I am considering running motor without thermostat to see if it is the problem. Every dealer and forum I talk to says it should pee. After impeller change, motor never overheats, but no pee. Long story short, if it won't pee without thermostat, it either isn't meant to pee, or something is clogged in block. I have ordered a new thermostat, but I just want to make sure it is safe to run it temporarily without. Any help is greatly appreciated.","Hello ! Yes, it's been a long time. What motor are you working on ? Can you get any stainless wire to pass into the outlet nipple? Stainless leader wire is a good tool for this. The water jacket itself can't really be disassembled, but you can remove some plates and covers to gain access to limited areas. Your best bet is to work to get a wire or small drill bit to be able to pass into the outlet nipple and free up whatever is blocking. Running the motor in a tub of fresh water and white vinegar is a good way to do a mild sediment flush on the motor. The CLR is a more aggressive way to clean out the water jacket, but you have to be sure to get a good fresh water flush out after using it.","Hello ! Yes, it's been a long time. What motor are you working on ? Can you get any stainless wire to pass into the outlet nipple? Stainless leader wire is a good tool for this. The water jacket itself can't really be disassembled, but you can remove some plates and covers to gain access to limited areas. Your best bet is to work to get a wire or small drill bit to be able to pass into the outlet nipple and free up whatever is blocking. Running the motor in a tub of fresh water and white vinegar is a good way to do a mild sediment flush on the motor. The CLR is a more aggressive way to clean out the water jacket, but you have to be sure to get a good fresh water flush out after using it.",The brakes are sold in pairs. You need to have one brake on one side and the other on the opposite side same axle. When done in salt water I always washed down the calipers when flushing the engine. The disc brake system I had installed was Tie Down's stainless system. +"After dropping my lower unit several times now trying to figure out why my 6 hp wont pee, I pulled the thermostat and it's fairly corroded and apparently non-functioning. I installed new impeller and get plenty of water discharge at prop but no tell tale. I have cleaned every water line I can find, sprayed water through them and nothing comes from the pee holes. I am considering running motor without thermostat to see if it is the problem. Every dealer and forum I talk to says it should pee. After impeller change, motor never overheats, but no pee. Long story short, if it won't pee without thermostat, it either isn't meant to pee, or something is clogged in block. I have ordered a new thermostat, but I just want to make sure it is safe to run it temporarily without. Any help is greatly appreciated.","Hamfisted said: + + + + Hello ! Yes, it's been a long time. What motor are you working on ? Can you get any stainless wire to pass into the outlet nipple? Stainless leader wire is a good tool for this. The water jacket itself can't really be disassembled, but you can remove some plates and covers to gain access to limited areas. Your best bet is to work to get a wire or small drill bit to be able to pass into the outlet nipple and free up whatever is blocking. Running the motor in a tub of fresh water and white vinegar is a good way to do a mild sediment flush on the motor. The CLR is a more aggressive way to clean out the water jacket, but you have to be sure to get a good fresh water flush out after using it. + +Click to expand... + + + +Awesome! I will try those things and see if I have luck. I've been on TheHullTruth forum as well with bunch of suggestions (some of them repetitive as the responders don't always read the whole thread). I'll see if this has any good results and let you know. Thanks a bunch!! -Mike","Hamfisted said: + + + + Hello ! Yes, it's been a long time. What motor are you working on ? Can you get any stainless wire to pass into the outlet nipple? Stainless leader wire is a good tool for this. The water jacket itself can't really be disassembled, but you can remove some plates and covers to gain access to limited areas. Your best bet is to work to get a wire or small drill bit to be able to pass into the outlet nipple and free up whatever is blocking. Running the motor in a tub of fresh water and white vinegar is a good way to do a mild sediment flush on the motor. The CLR is a more aggressive way to clean out the water jacket, but you have to be sure to get a good fresh water flush out after using it. + +Click to expand... + + + +Awesome! I will try those things and see if I have luck. I've been on TheHullTruth forum as well with bunch of suggestions (some of them repetitive as the responders don't always read the whole thread). I'll see if this has any good results and let you know. Thanks a bunch!! -Mike",Not sure how check vacuum lock. Didn't pull the whole pump apart. So will do that next. Can length of fuel line be an issue? +"Aloha gang, + +im new to this form and ripping apart outboard motors. Starting small but have run into big problems. After motor apparently overheated and seized up I realized I spun a bearing on piston number 2 at the crank. The crank seem to be a bit rough, so my question is if I decide to bring it into a machine shop how much can they grind it down and what size bearings do I use. I noticed there are 3 choices for that application. I concidered buying a new crank but that’s not really in my budget for a backup motor. Advice and opinions appreciated. Thanks","The applicable service manual provides the minimum diameter for the crank shaft journals. + +Once the shaft is ground down it will either be in or out of specifications. If out, it is scrap. If it is within then you select the bearing colour that will provide the clearance that is specified within the service manual.","The applicable service manual provides the minimum diameter for the crank shaft journals. + +Once the shaft is ground down it will either be in or out of specifications. If out, it is scrap. If it is within then you select the bearing colour that will provide the clearance that is specified within the service manual.","The forum didn't like my pictures, but I'll keep trying." +"Aloha gang, + +im new to this form and ripping apart outboard motors. Starting small but have run into big problems. After motor apparently overheated and seized up I realized I spun a bearing on piston number 2 at the crank. The crank seem to be a bit rough, so my question is if I decide to bring it into a machine shop how much can they grind it down and what size bearings do I use. I noticed there are 3 choices for that application. I concidered buying a new crank but that’s not really in my budget for a backup motor. Advice and opinions appreciated. Thanks",Thanks for your reply. I assumed that was the process but the service manual I have is general to different motors. Wanted to get that spec info to the maximum I can grind it down so I can give the machine shop info. If anyone can help me with that I’d be grateful ����,Thanks for your reply. I assumed that was the process but the service manual I have is general to different motors. Wanted to get that spec info to the maximum I can grind it down so I can give the machine shop info. If anyone can help me with that I’d be grateful ����,"it has recently started pouring out gas out of the fuel hole that you put gas in. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... Especially if it just started doin' this,... I gotta agree with jim,...." +"Aloha gang, + +im new to this form and ripping apart outboard motors. Starting small but have run into big problems. After motor apparently overheated and seized up I realized I spun a bearing on piston number 2 at the crank. The crank seem to be a bit rough, so my question is if I decide to bring it into a machine shop how much can they grind it down and what size bearings do I use. I noticed there are 3 choices for that application. I concidered buying a new crank but that’s not really in my budget for a backup motor. Advice and opinions appreciated. Thanks","The motor should have a specific model identity. For instance, F25MLHA. Crank shaft part number 65W-11411-01-00. + +There is a specific Yamaha service manual for that model motor. Within the SM you will find the minimum dimensions for the crank shaft journals and the clearances for the bearings.","The motor should have a specific model identity. For instance, F25MLHA. Crank shaft part number 65W-11411-01-00. + +There is a specific Yamaha service manual for that model motor. Within the SM you will find the minimum dimensions for the crank shaft journals and the clearances for the bearings.",click on technical question +"Aloha gang, + +im new to this form and ripping apart outboard motors. Starting small but have run into big problems. After motor apparently overheated and seized up I realized I spun a bearing on piston number 2 at the crank. The crank seem to be a bit rough, so my question is if I decide to bring it into a machine shop how much can they grind it down and what size bearings do I use. I noticed there are 3 choices for that application. I concidered buying a new crank but that’s not really in my budget for a backup motor. Advice and opinions appreciated. Thanks",Understood. I need to get a hold of that Manual and information. The one I currently have is SELOC Edit has a wide range of mercury and Yamaha. Thanks for your input And guidance,Understood. I need to get a hold of that Manual and information. The one I currently have is SELOC Edit has a wide range of mercury and Yamaha. Thanks for your input And guidance,"I found the thread again, about seal orientation. It was a Mariner motor, not Mercury. I didn't use the right keywords on the search. Looks like any double seal is supposed to have one seal for pressure and one for vacuum. I will plan to do it that way, unless someone stops me." +"Aloha gang, + +im new to this form and ripping apart outboard motors. Starting small but have run into big problems. After motor apparently overheated and seized up I realized I spun a bearing on piston number 2 at the crank. The crank seem to be a bit rough, so my question is if I decide to bring it into a machine shop how much can they grind it down and what size bearings do I use. I noticed there are 3 choices for that application. I concidered buying a new crank but that’s not really in my budget for a backup motor. Advice and opinions appreciated. Thanks",Will look something like this:,Will look something like this:,Checked the flywheel key ? +"Aloha gang, + +im new to this form and ripping apart outboard motors. Starting small but have run into big problems. After motor apparently overheated and seized up I realized I spun a bearing on piston number 2 at the crank. The crank seem to be a bit rough, so my question is if I decide to bring it into a machine shop how much can they grind it down and what size bearings do I use. I noticed there are 3 choices for that application. I concidered buying a new crank but that’s not really in my budget for a backup motor. Advice and opinions appreciated. Thanks",Would that happen to be for the f25 or is it an example? I can’t find that literature. Thanks,Would that happen to be for the f25 or is it an example? I can’t find that literature. Thanks,"deepsea21 said: + + + + Why do you say you had to wait 15 mnutes to crank? Are you saying nothing happened when you turned the key for 15 min? Or when you turned the key for the first 15 minutes the engine would turn over but would not fire and start? A + +re you using ethanol-blended fuel that is sold at 99% of gas stations or 100% gasoline? What is the size of your fuel tank? Do you add any type of fuel stabilizer to the gas at fill-ups? + +Click to expand... + + +Tried to crank several times and would not crank. So i fished for 15 min then it cranked. Not sure size of tank. Before i took it out on the water i drained all gas put new gas in. Used blended gas . No additives" +"Aloha gang, + +im new to this form and ripping apart outboard motors. Starting small but have run into big problems. After motor apparently overheated and seized up I realized I spun a bearing on piston number 2 at the crank. The crank seem to be a bit rough, so my question is if I decide to bring it into a machine shop how much can they grind it down and what size bearings do I use. I noticed there are 3 choices for that application. I concidered buying a new crank but that’s not really in my budget for a backup motor. Advice and opinions appreciated. Thanks","It is for an F25 of your vintage. + +https://www.yamahapubs.com/","It is for an F25 of your vintage. + +https://www.yamahapubs.com/","ok will try that today ,,will also charge the batteries as they have been exhausted trying to crank it over ,,,thanks again" +"Aloha gang, + +im new to this form and ripping apart outboard motors. Starting small but have run into big problems. After motor apparently overheated and seized up I realized I spun a bearing on piston number 2 at the crank. The crank seem to be a bit rough, so my question is if I decide to bring it into a machine shop how much can they grind it down and what size bearings do I use. I noticed there are 3 choices for that application. I concidered buying a new crank but that’s not really in my budget for a backup motor. Advice and opinions appreciated. Thanks",Thanks so much! Really appreciate the help. Come to Hawaii and I’ll take you out on my boat that actually runs. Haha,Thanks so much! Really appreciate the help. Come to Hawaii and I’ll take you out on my boat that actually runs. Haha,"Address fuel system 1st. Are you saying that after you tightened hose clamp you are still experiencing a fuel leak? Check if water in fuel by dumping contents of water/fuel separator and/or fuel filter into glass cup. + +After you've confirmed no fuel leak or water infiltration then pull/clean carbs, including jets." +"Aloha gang, + +im new to this form and ripping apart outboard motors. Starting small but have run into big problems. After motor apparently overheated and seized up I realized I spun a bearing on piston number 2 at the crank. The crank seem to be a bit rough, so my question is if I decide to bring it into a machine shop how much can they grind it down and what size bearings do I use. I noticed there are 3 choices for that application. I concidered buying a new crank but that’s not really in my budget for a backup motor. Advice and opinions appreciated. Thanks","Boomkanani said: + + + + Thanks so much! Really appreciate the help. Come to Hawaii and I’ll take you out on my boat that actually runs. Haha + +Click to expand... + + +I can't return to Hawaii. Too many good memories. You can never go home. + +Thanks for the offer however.","Boomkanani said: + + + + Thanks so much! Really appreciate the help. Come to Hawaii and I’ll take you out on my boat that actually runs. Haha + +Click to expand... + + +I can't return to Hawaii. Too many good memories. You can never go home. + +Thanks for the offer however.",possible vacuum leak? spray a mist of water with a tiny bit of soap on lines and near the carb to see if you have a vacuum leak +"Aloha gang, + +im new to this form and ripping apart outboard motors. Starting small but have run into big problems. After motor apparently overheated and seized up I realized I spun a bearing on piston number 2 at the crank. The crank seem to be a bit rough, so my question is if I decide to bring it into a machine shop how much can they grind it down and what size bearings do I use. I noticed there are 3 choices for that application. I concidered buying a new crank but that’s not really in my budget for a backup motor. Advice and opinions appreciated. Thanks",Aloha my friend,Aloha my friend,Disconnect wires from port & starboard heat sensors turn the key on you should have no alarm if you put them back and if the alarm goes off then you have a negative problem in your sensors . +"I bought this 1997 40 hp tiller, short shaft motor new. I ran it on a fishing/hunting boat until 2017 when the crankshaft separated. It looks new and always ran perfectly. The motor was disassembled by reputable service folks. They said everything fine except crankshaft. It is now in parts, taking up space in my boat barn. + +I do t really know what to do with it. Is it worth fixing, parting out or what? I am not a mechanic. I had it set up high on transom and suspect lack of back pressure at prop caused the crank to separate. + +I wish i had it it like it was. It was bad ax little motor! + +Any sugestions? Thx!",There are places that can repair crank shafts if that is what you are interested in.,There are places that can repair crank shafts if that is what you are interested in.,"as installed, starter is on 'far' side of unit against a bulkhead, relatively inaccessible short of disconnecting everything to slide it out. i'll see if there are any intermediate connections more accessible to check for power." +"I bought this 1997 40 hp tiller, short shaft motor new. I ran it on a fishing/hunting boat until 2017 when the crankshaft separated. It looks new and always ran perfectly. The motor was disassembled by reputable service folks. They said everything fine except crankshaft. It is now in parts, taking up space in my boat barn. + +I do t really know what to do with it. Is it worth fixing, parting out or what? I am not a mechanic. I had it set up high on transom and suspect lack of back pressure at prop caused the crank to separate. + +I wish i had it it like it was. It was bad ax little motor! + +Any sugestions? Thx!",Look for a parts motor with good powerhead.-----Or invest in a factory new crankshaft assembly.-----Look for a crank assembly on e-bay.,Look for a parts motor with good powerhead.-----Or invest in a factory new crankshaft assembly.-----Look for a crank assembly on e-bay.,Put head on with a new gasket and run it another 20 years. +"I bought this 1997 40 hp tiller, short shaft motor new. I ran it on a fishing/hunting boat until 2017 when the crankshaft separated. It looks new and always ran perfectly. The motor was disassembled by reputable service folks. They said everything fine except crankshaft. It is now in parts, taking up space in my boat barn. + +I do t really know what to do with it. Is it worth fixing, parting out or what? I am not a mechanic. I had it set up high on transom and suspect lack of back pressure at prop caused the crank to separate. + +I wish i had it it like it was. It was bad ax little motor! + +Any sugestions? Thx!","TM. Probably not worth repair unless you can do it yourself or get it to a school with a good instructor. Alternatively, you can price out parts/gaskets at Tim's Outboard Hackensack MN. 218 682 2331. It really needs a close exam to truly determine the exact cause as well as the extent of the damage.","TM. Probably not worth repair unless you can do it yourself or get it to a school with a good instructor. Alternatively, you can price out parts/gaskets at Tim's Outboard Hackensack MN. 218 682 2331. It really needs a close exam to truly determine the exact cause as well as the extent of the damage.","Engine maintenance is done, we went on test drive, max RPM was 4700, speed was 40km/h when propellers trim was completely down, we pushed it bit up and it made 50km/h at 5000rpm. + +The technician mentioned something about the fins, he thinks the boat will run faster without the fins and suggested to remove them. + +What do you say?" +"I bought this 1997 40 hp tiller, short shaft motor new. I ran it on a fishing/hunting boat until 2017 when the crankshaft separated. It looks new and always ran perfectly. The motor was disassembled by reputable service folks. They said everything fine except crankshaft. It is now in parts, taking up space in my boat barn. + +I do t really know what to do with it. Is it worth fixing, parting out or what? I am not a mechanic. I had it set up high on transom and suspect lack of back pressure at prop caused the crank to separate. + +I wish i had it it like it was. It was bad ax little motor! + +Any sugestions? Thx!","From another website where I asked the question about where to get a crank shaft repaired: + +""Rod sent me to Caroline Tool and Machine to get a rebuilt crank for my C40. +They take your crank as long as it is a rebuild-able core. + +It had to be one they had repaired already since the turn around was so fast + +3416 Enterprize Drive +Wilmington NC + +910-343-8111""","From another website where I asked the question about where to get a crank shaft repaired: + +""Rod sent me to Caroline Tool and Machine to get a rebuilt crank for my C40. +They take your crank as long as it is a rebuild-able core. + +It had to be one they had repaired already since the turn around was so fast + +3416 Enterprize Drive +Wilmington NC + +910-343-8111""","Have you swapped out the entire fuel system (incl VST, LP pumps etc) and injectors? Sounds like a typical VST or LP pump issue at a first guess, but the Yamaha mechs should have been all over that first up. The other similar issue we had on an HPDI a few years back came back to a bad earth. There a bunch of small earth wires on the side of most Yamaha blocks. I would spend an hour undoing each one, cleaning them, and tightening them back up. Quick squirt of touch up paint afterwards to protect them again. Fuel is more likely, but the Yamaha mechs and presumably been all through that already. The other quick check would be to run it off a tote tank in case you have fuel delivery issues in the lines or tank." +"I bought this 1997 40 hp tiller, short shaft motor new. I ran it on a fishing/hunting boat until 2017 when the crankshaft separated. It looks new and always ran perfectly. The motor was disassembled by reputable service folks. They said everything fine except crankshaft. It is now in parts, taking up space in my boat barn. + +I do t really know what to do with it. Is it worth fixing, parting out or what? I am not a mechanic. I had it set up high on transom and suspect lack of back pressure at prop caused the crank to separate. + +I wish i had it it like it was. It was bad ax little motor! + +Any sugestions? Thx!",Where do you live by the way? I might be interested in some piece parts if you decide to sell the motor for parts.,Where do you live by the way? I might be interested in some piece parts if you decide to sell the motor for parts.,"That's the only way I know of. Yeah, it sucks." +"I bought this 1997 40 hp tiller, short shaft motor new. I ran it on a fishing/hunting boat until 2017 when the crankshaft separated. It looks new and always ran perfectly. The motor was disassembled by reputable service folks. They said everything fine except crankshaft. It is now in parts, taking up space in my boat barn. + +I do t really know what to do with it. Is it worth fixing, parting out or what? I am not a mechanic. I had it set up high on transom and suspect lack of back pressure at prop caused the crank to separate. + +I wish i had it it like it was. It was bad ax little motor! + +Any sugestions? Thx!","boscoe said: + + + + Where do you live by the way? I might be interested in some piece parts if you decide to sell the motor for parts. + +Click to expand... + +Arkansas. + +If if I do sell I would sell the whole thing. The motor would still run and perform after crank separated. No damage anywhere else. + +What i I would love to do is fix it Put a jet foot on it. Probably not worth it though. + +Thx for your input!! I appreciate it. If you r interested in it. Let me know. Has ss prop as well.","boscoe said: + + + + Where do you live by the way? I might be interested in some piece parts if you decide to sell the motor for parts. + +Click to expand... + +Arkansas. + +If if I do sell I would sell the whole thing. The motor would still run and perform after crank separated. No damage anywhere else. + +What i I would love to do is fix it Put a jet foot on it. Probably not worth it though. + +Thx for your input!! I appreciate it. If you r interested in it. Let me know. Has ss prop as well.","racerone said: + + + + When you are testing in a bucket water MUST be above the impeller to prime it.----A boat underway is totally different. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks! Appreciate it. I'll give it a whirl. +Cheers" +"I bought this 1997 40 hp tiller, short shaft motor new. I ran it on a fishing/hunting boat until 2017 when the crankshaft separated. It looks new and always ran perfectly. The motor was disassembled by reputable service folks. They said everything fine except crankshaft. It is now in parts, taking up space in my boat barn. + +I do t really know what to do with it. Is it worth fixing, parting out or what? I am not a mechanic. I had it set up high on transom and suspect lack of back pressure at prop caused the crank to separate. + +I wish i had it it like it was. It was bad ax little motor! + +Any sugestions? Thx!","Thanks for the reply. I am not interested in the whole enchilada. + +Good luck with whatever you do.","Thanks for the reply. I am not interested in the whole enchilada. + +Good luck with whatever you do.",Thanks for the tips on the fuse issue. Now can anyone tell me why the trim and water temp indicators are not working? All the fuses under the dash are ok. Is there fuses for these under the cowl? +"I’ve got an 06 Yamaha f115 that I cant get to crank. I have checked battery connections, all fuses, spark plugs etc. It starts to turn over and starter initiates fly wheel and maybe spins once or twice and then it clicks several times very fast. I have come to the conclusion that it is likely the starter or solenoid. My multimeter says I have 12.5v at solenoid when key is in the on position. This afternoon I jumped the starter from the battery and I got it to crank. Does this mean i have a bad solenoid?","Measuring voltage at the starter without the key being in the start position is useless. Means absolutely nothing. + +If the starting system works when 12 volts is applied by jumpering battery power to the starter it probably means that you have a voltage drop issue. + +For instance, put your voltmeter on the solenoid with the key in the on position. You might see 12.5 volts as you say. Have someone turn the key to the start position. Then look at the voltage. What do you see? I bet that it drops too low for the starter motor to work.","Measuring voltage at the starter without the key being in the start position is useless. Means absolutely nothing. + +If the starting system works when 12 volts is applied by jumpering battery power to the starter it probably means that you have a voltage drop issue. + +For instance, put your voltmeter on the solenoid with the key in the on position. You might see 12.5 volts as you say. Have someone turn the key to the start position. Then look at the voltage. What do you see? I bet that it drops too low for the starter motor to work.",Make special tools.-----Get a boat shop to take it off.-----Cut the welds and replace it with a bolt-on jack.----Your choice. +"I’ve got an 06 Yamaha f115 that I cant get to crank. I have checked battery connections, all fuses, spark plugs etc. It starts to turn over and starter initiates fly wheel and maybe spins once or twice and then it clicks several times very fast. I have come to the conclusion that it is likely the starter or solenoid. My multimeter says I have 12.5v at solenoid when key is in the on position. This afternoon I jumped the starter from the battery and I got it to crank. Does this mean i have a bad solenoid?",So I tried what you said to this afternoon and you were right. The voltage is dropping all the way down to around 4-5v on the solenoid when the key is in the start position and it does the same thing when it is touching the starter. It is holding around 12.6v at the battery when key is turned to start. So what exactly should I be looking for here? Had someone tell me today it could be my neutral safety switch but I don’t believe that’s it.,So I tried what you said to this afternoon and you were right. The voltage is dropping all the way down to around 4-5v on the solenoid when the key is in the start position and it does the same thing when it is touching the starter. It is holding around 12.6v at the battery when key is turned to start. So what exactly should I be looking for here? Had someone tell me today it could be my neutral safety switch but I don’t believe that’s it.,A photo of the carburetors might be useful. +"I’ve got an 06 Yamaha f115 that I cant get to crank. I have checked battery connections, all fuses, spark plugs etc. It starts to turn over and starter initiates fly wheel and maybe spins once or twice and then it clicks several times very fast. I have come to the conclusion that it is likely the starter or solenoid. My multimeter says I have 12.5v at solenoid when key is in the on position. This afternoon I jumped the starter from the battery and I got it to crank. Does this mean i have a bad solenoid?","It cannot be the neutral safety switch. Power from the key switch goes through the neutral safety switch to provide power to the starter motor relay. If it were the NSS then nothing at all would happen. + +Check all electrical connections between the battery and the starter motor solenoid. Including the grounds.","It cannot be the neutral safety switch. Power from the key switch goes through the neutral safety switch to provide power to the starter motor relay. If it were the NSS then nothing at all would happen. + +Check all electrical connections between the battery and the starter motor solenoid. Including the grounds.","Did you service the water pressure control valve? + +PN 6G5-12416-00-00 + +The pisser stream should stay the same. If this is stuck slightly open the engine will overheat." +"I’ve got an 06 Yamaha f115 that I cant get to crank. I have checked battery connections, all fuses, spark plugs etc. It starts to turn over and starter initiates fly wheel and maybe spins once or twice and then it clicks several times very fast. I have come to the conclusion that it is likely the starter or solenoid. My multimeter says I have 12.5v at solenoid when key is in the on position. This afternoon I jumped the starter from the battery and I got it to crank. Does this mean i have a bad solenoid?","One more thing to check if all connections are clean.... + +Grab the Yamaha supplied battery rigging cable, its black and hooks the battery to the engine, Put it next to your ear and listen closely as you bend it. Does it crackle? If yes, the cable is NG....","One more thing to check if all connections are clean.... + +Grab the Yamaha supplied battery rigging cable, its black and hooks the battery to the engine, Put it next to your ear and listen closely as you bend it. Does it crackle? If yes, the cable is NG....","Doyle said: + + + + You may have caused another problem working on the pump. However getting back to basics. Replace the fuel line from the tank to the motor, getting the hose from a marine dealer not auto parts house. I am 65 have seem hoses collapse from the inside, the fuel suction will close an old deteriated hose. Another trick is to cut a V in the pick up tube in the tank if not already done as in some circumstantes the pick up tube will get flat on the bottom of the tank and create a vacuum. + Good luck. + +Click to expand... + + +OK, I've done everything everyone has suggested plus I put in a carburetor kit. When I first fired it up, it would only run with the choke out, as soon as you pushed the choke in it would shut off. I played with the adjustment screws and I think it running like it should. I'll know when I put it in the water. Thanks for every ones help and and suggestions." +"I’ve got an 06 Yamaha f115 that I cant get to crank. I have checked battery connections, all fuses, spark plugs etc. It starts to turn over and starter initiates fly wheel and maybe spins once or twice and then it clicks several times very fast. I have come to the conclusion that it is likely the starter or solenoid. My multimeter says I have 12.5v at solenoid when key is in the on position. This afternoon I jumped the starter from the battery and I got it to crank. Does this mean i have a bad solenoid?",I have replaced the battery cables as of today and checked all connections and I’m still not getting anything. You guys have any more ideas? I read somewhere where someone jumped started the solenoid by jumping 12+ to the brown wire that runs from the solenoid. Is this a good idea? Would this rule out whether or not it is the solenoid?,I have replaced the battery cables as of today and checked all connections and I’m still not getting anything. You guys have any more ideas? I read somewhere where someone jumped started the solenoid by jumping 12+ to the brown wire that runs from the solenoid. Is this a good idea? Would this rule out whether or not it is the solenoid?,"ashraf said: + + + + This is not my engine, it belongs to the Cost guard and they asked me to help figure out the reason of this, they use it in salt water and according to them the valve was not damaged, in any case if the timing was wrong the valve would bend not the connecting rod, right. If detonation or pre-ignition were the reason, how to prevent such a thing in the future? + +Click to expand... + + +Did you read post #10? Forget about Pre-ignition and detonation. + +The boat belongs to the CG. I would say they Did a full throttle Fwd into reverse for an emergency stop. That will fill the cylinders with water. Ask me how I know this. + +What you have to understand....they will never tell you what really happened." +"I’ve got an 06 Yamaha f115 that I cant get to crank. I have checked battery connections, all fuses, spark plugs etc. It starts to turn over and starter initiates fly wheel and maybe spins once or twice and then it clicks several times very fast. I have come to the conclusion that it is likely the starter or solenoid. My multimeter says I have 12.5v at solenoid when key is in the on position. This afternoon I jumped the starter from the battery and I got it to crank. Does this mean i have a bad solenoid?","When you measured 4.5 volts when the key was in the start position what side of the solenoid were you on? + +Although the diagram shows the battery cable outboard of the other three red wires i would position it to be right up against the solenoid terminal.","When you measured 4.5 volts when the key was in the start position what side of the solenoid were you on? + +Although the diagram shows the battery cable outboard of the other three red wires i would position it to be right up against the solenoid terminal.","This is a rather old thread, and Marc has posted only one time. But for the sake of on-lookers, here's my two cents. + +The MBSS (main battery selector switch..... aka 1/ALL/2/OFF) poses no issues when selecting between battery banks while the engine is running. +Passing through the ""OFF"" position is what may damage an alternator, if the MBSS does not provide ""alternator field protection"". +Many today do not offer this! +So yes..... whether we have an MBSS or a BS, we should not be passing through OFF during engine operation! +Switching banks ONLY is a non-issue, as most of these MBSS's are ""Make-before-Break"" type contacts! + +Isolators are old school technology by today's standards! +There will be an inherant .7 +/- voltage drop throuh an isolator. +Instead, we should be using ACR's or VSR's in their place. +Whe/if we use a multi-bank O/B Charger, the two bank charing (while on S/P or Generator) becomes a non-issue. +ACR's or VSR's also help in this area. + +Ditto Bill re; two banks, rather than three, and in particular if an Inverter is to be used. +Inverters are power hungry, and are not very efficient at what they do. +No need for three banks, IMO. +Keep your #2 HLBB as large as possible. +This ensures that the % of discharge is less than that of a smaller bank would be, given the same load/duration. +It will be the % of discharge, the duration left in this SOD, and how soon the bank is re-charged............, that makes or breaks battery longevity! +Better yet, make the #2 HLBB (house load batt bank) 6 volt deep cycle batteries (in series/groups of two) and increase the Amp Hour capacity. + +." +"I’ve got an 06 Yamaha f115 that I cant get to crank. I have checked battery connections, all fuses, spark plugs etc. It starts to turn over and starter initiates fly wheel and maybe spins once or twice and then it clicks several times very fast. I have come to the conclusion that it is likely the starter or solenoid. My multimeter says I have 12.5v at solenoid when key is in the on position. This afternoon I jumped the starter from the battery and I got it to crank. Does this mean i have a bad solenoid?","I had the red wire from voltmeter where the arrow is pointing, Where the red and black wires meet on solenoid and then the black wire from voltmeter on the ground.","I had the red wire from voltmeter where the arrow is pointing, Where the red and black wires meet on solenoid and then the black wire from voltmeter on the ground.",If you do not know how to test for voltage let me know. +"I’ve got an 06 Yamaha f115 that I cant get to crank. I have checked battery connections, all fuses, spark plugs etc. It starts to turn over and starter initiates fly wheel and maybe spins once or twice and then it clicks several times very fast. I have come to the conclusion that it is likely the starter or solenoid. My multimeter says I have 12.5v at solenoid when key is in the on position. This afternoon I jumped the starter from the battery and I got it to crank. Does this mean i have a bad solenoid?",Check the voltage on the other side of the solenoid. The terminal that goes to the starter motor. It is possible that the solenoid is causing the voltage drop. Could be the contacts within the solenoid that are causing the problem.,Check the voltage on the other side of the solenoid. The terminal that goes to the starter motor. It is possible that the solenoid is causing the voltage drop. Could be the contacts within the solenoid that are causing the problem.,do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?if so then set the meter on rx1 and zero it...disconnect the positive lead at the battery...take a reading from the disconnected lead to motor ground....write the reading down...then turn the key to on....take a reading and write it down...now turn the key to start...take a reading and get back to us with the 3 readings please.. +"I have a 1988 200hp 2stroke Yamaha. If I want to vacuum sync my carbs, do I just need 3 gauges or 6? Not sure if each carb controls two cylinders or one per side.",Very doubtful your intake has the nozzles to attach vacuum. This feature is common w/F model yams. Have you first verified there are nozzles to allow for vacuum hook up?,Very doubtful your intake has the nozzles to attach vacuum. This feature is common w/F model yams. Have you first verified there are nozzles to allow for vacuum hook up?,is this motor new to you? Has the rectifier ever been hooked up and working since you had the boat? Has there been any wiring changes made to the original? Has any wiring been replaced because of wiring degradation? What color are the two wires you are hooking up to the rectifier? Where does the red wire from the rectifier term block go? +"I have a 1988 200hp 2stroke Yamaha. If I want to vacuum sync my carbs, do I just need 3 gauges or 6? Not sure if each carb controls two cylinders or one per side.",I assumed I would connect the gauges to the ports that the bleeders are connected at.,I assumed I would connect the gauges to the ports that the bleeders are connected at.,"This doesn't sound right to me. I wouldn't want salt water (or even fresh) constantly shooting towards the pivot housing. There is normally a small amount of water that comes out an exhaust outlet above the water line, but it normally faces backwards and isn't very much at all with the bulk going out through the prop. It is possible that the muffler isn't sealed properly to the powerhead but I'm not familiar with this exact outboard and it seems very new to be having that type of problem. + +Stuart" +"I have a 1988 200hp 2stroke Yamaha. If I want to vacuum sync my carbs, do I just need 3 gauges or 6? Not sure if each carb controls two cylinders or one per side.",That procedure is not normally done on a 2 stroke.-----What is your motor doing / not doing ?---Have you done any trouble shooting ?,That procedure is not normally done on a 2 stroke.-----What is your motor doing / not doing ?---Have you done any trouble shooting ?,Just vacuum bag it and let the pump run a while....vacuum is one of your best friends for removing moisture... +"I have a 1988 200hp 2stroke Yamaha. If I want to vacuum sync my carbs, do I just need 3 gauges or 6? Not sure if each carb controls two cylinders or one per side.","It’s hesitating on acceleration but just sometimes. I have replaced the plugs, fuel filter. I did however notice the owner before me moved the slow idle timing screw because the red paint doesn’t match up. I will check the timing but the Seloc book doesn’t say witch plug is number 1. I’m thinking it’s the top right plug like my old mercury. It also is pretty hard to start the first time. But after that it first fires right up.","It’s hesitating on acceleration but just sometimes. I have replaced the plugs, fuel filter. I did however notice the owner before me moved the slow idle timing screw because the red paint doesn’t match up. I will check the timing but the Seloc book doesn’t say witch plug is number 1. I’m thinking it’s the top right plug like my old mercury. It also is pretty hard to start the first time. But after that it first fires right up.","just buy a yamana yds 1.33 s/w and obd cable. + +it is about only 60$ on ebay. + +plz searching ' yamaha outboard diagnotic' on ebay. + +have a good day. )" +"Hi! +i recently bought a Yamaha f80 and i have replaced the water pump and i am wondering if its supposed to come water out where the speed hose runs out? See video. + +","Water from intake is directed thru speed tube to generate a speed value. But if your hose is disconnected then water will dump out. I don't think it's hurting anything by exiting the hose, but you have less water pressure delivered to coolong system that is generated by water pump.","Water from intake is directed thru speed tube to generate a speed value. But if your hose is disconnected then water will dump out. I don't think it's hurting anything by exiting the hose, but you have less water pressure delivered to coolong system that is generated by water pump.","boscoe said: + + + + What is the engine ID of each motor? Begins with the number 6. + +Click to expand... + +Thank you for response. The identification is missing on the port engine but the starboard says: 150EAT 6G4 702152 X. I did buy one based on all the info and it was completely different to the one removed. The 2 holes wouldn’t line up and the lever arm was a different shape length. Both engines were supplied at the same time." +"I have twin 2002 200 HP Yamaha 4 strokes, that have run perfectly and serviced regularly. I just recently had my port engine begin to act up. Runs perfectly for about 40 minutes, then stalls as if it runs out of gas. Fires right back up, but only for about 10 seconds...(struggles than quits)...then she turns over like it is ""bone dry"" of gas...turns over great, but does not attempt to start.... If I let it set for a few hours, she starts and runs perfect again for about 45 minutes. + + +Yesterday I was able to get the symptoms to repeat while at the dock, so I was able to trouble shoot a bit more. This time I was able to ""catch it"" just as the engine began to struggle and die out... I pumped the primer ball before it stalled, and it came right back to life..... ran perfect for about 10 minutes, then I heard it struggle again...Caught in time, pumped the ball, and it came right back to life.... Repeated this perfectly for 3-4 times in a row. + + +I've no idea what the real issue is, but I'm not comfortable going too far out, since I really don't know what's causing it.",Test run with a portable fuel tank and hose.---Change fuel filters.,Test run with a portable fuel tank and hose.---Change fuel filters.,"Gregory said: + + + +I have a 2003 Glastron with a 5.0GL-C Volvo Penta motor in it. My Raw Water Pump went out on it and I called a Volva Dealer and he said that it should have a saltwater pump also. Where is this saltwater pump located at on this motor? Is there yet another pump on the outdrive? + Thanks + Greg​ + +Click to expand... + + +Nope,... + +Volvos have an engine mounted Raw water pump(with the rubber impeller), 'n the usual circulating water pump(cast iron/ steel impeller).... + +Really no such thing as a Saltwater pump..." +"I have twin 2002 200 HP Yamaha 4 strokes, that have run perfectly and serviced regularly. I just recently had my port engine begin to act up. Runs perfectly for about 40 minutes, then stalls as if it runs out of gas. Fires right back up, but only for about 10 seconds...(struggles than quits)...then she turns over like it is ""bone dry"" of gas...turns over great, but does not attempt to start.... If I let it set for a few hours, she starts and runs perfect again for about 45 minutes. + + +Yesterday I was able to get the symptoms to repeat while at the dock, so I was able to trouble shoot a bit more. This time I was able to ""catch it"" just as the engine began to struggle and die out... I pumped the primer ball before it stalled, and it came right back to life..... ran perfect for about 10 minutes, then I heard it struggle again...Caught in time, pumped the ball, and it came right back to life.... Repeated this perfectly for 3-4 times in a row. + + +I've no idea what the real issue is, but I'm not comfortable going too far out, since I really don't know what's causing it.",Check the low pressure electric fuel pump hanging on the VST tank.,Check the low pressure electric fuel pump hanging on the VST tank.,"Generally, the anti-cavitation plate (i.e. anti-ventilation plate) should be even with the lowest point on the transom. If you have an engine extension bracket mounted on the transom, then the plate should be elevated 1"" above the lowest point on the transom for every 12"" of offset." +"I have twin 2002 200 HP Yamaha 4 strokes, that have run perfectly and serviced regularly. I just recently had my port engine begin to act up. Runs perfectly for about 40 minutes, then stalls as if it runs out of gas. Fires right back up, but only for about 10 seconds...(struggles than quits)...then she turns over like it is ""bone dry"" of gas...turns over great, but does not attempt to start.... If I let it set for a few hours, she starts and runs perfect again for about 45 minutes. + + +Yesterday I was able to get the symptoms to repeat while at the dock, so I was able to trouble shoot a bit more. This time I was able to ""catch it"" just as the engine began to struggle and die out... I pumped the primer ball before it stalled, and it came right back to life..... ran perfect for about 10 minutes, then I heard it struggle again...Caught in time, pumped the ball, and it came right back to life.... Repeated this perfectly for 3-4 times in a row. + + +I've no idea what the real issue is, but I'm not comfortable going too far out, since I really don't know what's causing it.","Check fuel cooler, sounds like vapor lock, that is why it will start after letting the engine cool down","Check fuel cooler, sounds like vapor lock, that is why it will start after letting the engine cool down","Early USA issued 40 HP two strokes were delivered with a rectifier only. Later models started using a rectifier/regulator. + +6H2-81960-00-00" +"I have a 2008 F115TXR that is stuck in the down position. When I try to raise it, it only clicks. Going down the Tilt/trim motor runs. Any help would be appreciated.","Get yourself a model year specific service manual....necessary if you're a DIY. Since you've r/o the motor I'd next address the electrical path to the trim motor. + +Does the engine trim up/down using the cowling switch? + +If so, open the control throttle arm lever and remove the trim switch. Open the switch and clean the contact points. Reassemble and test. + +If not, grab a meter and volt drop test the path to locate the resistance.","Get yourself a model year specific service manual....necessary if you're a DIY. Since you've r/o the motor I'd next address the electrical path to the trim motor. + +Does the engine trim up/down using the cowling switch? + +If so, open the control throttle arm lever and remove the trim switch. Open the switch and clean the contact points. Reassemble and test. + +If not, grab a meter and volt drop test the path to locate the resistance.","racerone said: + + + + Try another propeller. + +Click to expand... + +Why and which one to get" +"I have a 2008 F115TXR that is stuck in the down position. When I try to raise it, it only clicks. Going down the Tilt/trim motor runs. Any help would be appreciated.",Reversed the blue and green connections to the tilt/trim relay and now it will go up but not down. Verdict - bad relay.,Reversed the blue and green connections to the tilt/trim relay and now it will go up but not down. Verdict - bad relay.,"great user name.. correct it is on the non-skid. To add to the problem the previous owner drilled wire connectors up thru the underside of the deck with screws. Which i temporally filled with 5100. I am getting the balls up to do some light fiberglass work to fix. not sure how to repaint the deck with regard to no-skid and smooth areas. I am just starting to read up on it. + + + +I have applied cleaners, Scrubbed and last weekend i hit it with a pressure washer and a hull scrub cleaner.. nothing works." +"Hi everyone + +I have a F100AET 100HP 2003 and need to check what the foring order is + +The engine has 2 coils each with two plug leads + +Does anyone know what pluge leads go into what coil and to what plug ? + +My son thought he was helping when I said we can change the plugs !!!!","1, 3, 4, 2","1, 3, 4, 2","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + You cleaned the fuel tank and have new filters and fuel.....You should have had the injectors cleaned also. Have them done. + +Did you adjust any screws on the throttle plates besides the base idle screw? + +Your TPS voltage should be around .7 volts + +Click to expand... + + +The tank was completely replaced along with all fuel lines and filters. TPS voltage at idle is .7. I have not adjusted any throttle screws. I am going to order some rebuilt injectors tomorrow. I found them for about $60 for Bosch replacements." +"Hi everyone + +I have a F100AET 100HP 2003 and need to check what the foring order is + +The engine has 2 coils each with two plug leads + +Does anyone know what pluge leads go into what coil and to what plug ? + +My son thought he was helping when I said we can change the plugs !!!!","boscoe + +Thanks for the firing order , Will have a look next time I am at the boat and hopefully get it running properly again","boscoe + +Thanks for the firing order , Will have a look next time I am at the boat and hopefully get it running properly again","I'd first refer to your owners manual. If you don't have one, locate online using model/year. Yamalube isn't required, any brand will do." +"Hi really need help am looking for a manual for a 1988 4hp 2 stroke Yamaha / Mariner outboard engine longshaft. Engine code: 6EO (mL) 332629 believe the parts no starts 4A but could be way out. ive seen several manuals here for the Yamaha but lost as to exactly which one i need . + +Im in the middle of a strip down / rebuild as the paintwork was at best non existent in parts as there was more corrosion but engine was free. + +Thank you","If you can free up 35 bucks, the SELOC manual is excellent.","If you can free up 35 bucks, the SELOC manual is excellent.","Jay1234 said: + + + + The oil would end up in the cylinder, which would explain why your flywheel ""locked up"". Have your pulled spark plug to check? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the thought Jay. I have been wondering what would cause the flywheel to lock up. My thoughts were there is some mechanism in the motor that kicked the flywheel into lockup to prevent further damage. I am going to try and look at this after work today. Many thanks for the suggestion!" +"Hi really need help am looking for a manual for a 1988 4hp 2 stroke Yamaha / Mariner outboard engine longshaft. Engine code: 6EO (mL) 332629 believe the parts no starts 4A but could be way out. ive seen several manuals here for the Yamaha but lost as to exactly which one i need . + +Im in the middle of a strip down / rebuild as the paintwork was at best non existent in parts as there was more corrosion but engine was free. + +Thank you",The Yamaha manual if you want that one is LIT-18616-00-02.,The Yamaha manual if you want that one is LIT-18616-00-02.,A Yamaha USA 5MSHS is going to be the closest to your model motor. +"Hi guys, need some help, I have a 2006 115hp 4 stroke with around 900 hours, I have had a couple of Yamaha mechanics look at it but still can not find the problem, ok, doesn't do it every time but a fair bit of the time, won't start in neutral till you put a few revs on, then will start but pull back into reverse and stalls, if you do get it going for a while, just every now and then when you pull back into neutral will stall then same it needs a few revs to start, have put a new throttle position sensor on and an Idle air control valve, nether have fixed problem, also it has a knock in the motor sort of like a big end knock, the mechanic know thinks it could be the striker plate? Just don't want to keep throwing money at parts if it doesn't fix the problem, any suggestions? Thanks in advance","And what / where is the "" striker plate "" on this engine.","And what / where is the "" striker plate "" on this engine.","Ayuh,.... It should be Ok,...." +"Hi guys, need some help, I have a 2006 115hp 4 stroke with around 900 hours, I have had a couple of Yamaha mechanics look at it but still can not find the problem, ok, doesn't do it every time but a fair bit of the time, won't start in neutral till you put a few revs on, then will start but pull back into reverse and stalls, if you do get it going for a while, just every now and then when you pull back into neutral will stall then same it needs a few revs to start, have put a new throttle position sensor on and an Idle air control valve, nether have fixed problem, also it has a knock in the motor sort of like a big end knock, the mechanic know thinks it could be the striker plate? Just don't want to keep throwing money at parts if it doesn't fix the problem, any suggestions? Thanks in advance","From what the Yamaha guy said it is under the fly wheel, trigger plate I think actually not striker, cheers","From what the Yamaha guy said it is under the fly wheel, trigger plate I think actually not striker, cheers","Any number of things can blow the main fuse - battery hooked up incorrectly, bad ground wire, especially at the battery, short in the main bus to your console, faulty breaker, etc. Not familiar with that specific boat, but most will have an independent breaker, and that is often mounted near the battery." +"Hi guys, need some help, I have a 2006 115hp 4 stroke with around 900 hours, I have had a couple of Yamaha mechanics look at it but still can not find the problem, ok, doesn't do it every time but a fair bit of the time, won't start in neutral till you put a few revs on, then will start but pull back into reverse and stalls, if you do get it going for a while, just every now and then when you pull back into neutral will stall then same it needs a few revs to start, have put a new throttle position sensor on and an Idle air control valve, nether have fixed problem, also it has a knock in the motor sort of like a big end knock, the mechanic know thinks it could be the striker plate? Just don't want to keep throwing money at parts if it doesn't fix the problem, any suggestions? Thanks in advance","""won't start in neutral till you put a few revs on"" + +What does ""put a few revs on"" mean. Are you saying that the motor has to be cranked for a long period of time before it starts? + +There is nothing in a Yamaha F115 that is known as a ""striker plate"". What ever that might be. There is nothing in a Yamaha known as ""trigger plate"" either. + +My suggestion (you asked) is to find a mechanic that is knowledgeable with respect to the Yamaha F115.","""won't start in neutral till you put a few revs on"" + +What does ""put a few revs on"" mean. Are you saying that the motor has to be cranked for a long period of time before it starts? + +There is nothing in a Yamaha F115 that is known as a ""striker plate"". What ever that might be. There is nothing in a Yamaha known as ""trigger plate"" either. + +My suggestion (you asked) is to find a mechanic that is knowledgeable with respect to the Yamaha F115.","many thanks ,its a journey of discovery, bit like a jigsaw ,the more you know,the easier it gets" +"Hi guys, need some help, I have a 2006 115hp 4 stroke with around 900 hours, I have had a couple of Yamaha mechanics look at it but still can not find the problem, ok, doesn't do it every time but a fair bit of the time, won't start in neutral till you put a few revs on, then will start but pull back into reverse and stalls, if you do get it going for a while, just every now and then when you pull back into neutral will stall then same it needs a few revs to start, have put a new throttle position sensor on and an Idle air control valve, nether have fixed problem, also it has a knock in the motor sort of like a big end knock, the mechanic know thinks it could be the striker plate? Just don't want to keep throwing money at parts if it doesn't fix the problem, any suggestions? Thanks in advance","Both the mechanics I have had look at it are Yamaha mechanics, both said trigger plate, also known as pulser coil they said","Both the mechanics I have had look at it are Yamaha mechanics, both said trigger plate, also known as pulser coil they said","Took it apart and checked on the impeller and its in good shape, was out for 45 mins the other day and it was still nice and cool. + +The outboard it at the cottage, Il take a look to see if I have any pictures and I'll let you know." +"Hi guys, need some help, I have a 2006 115hp 4 stroke with around 900 hours, I have had a couple of Yamaha mechanics look at it but still can not find the problem, ok, doesn't do it every time but a fair bit of the time, won't start in neutral till you put a few revs on, then will start but pull back into reverse and stalls, if you do get it going for a while, just every now and then when you pull back into neutral will stall then same it needs a few revs to start, have put a new throttle position sensor on and an Idle air control valve, nether have fixed problem, also it has a knock in the motor sort of like a big end knock, the mechanic know thinks it could be the striker plate? Just don't want to keep throwing money at parts if it doesn't fix the problem, any suggestions? Thanks in advance","Put a few revs on means, push the button in the middle of binnacle, this allows the motor to be revved but not in gear! So what I mean is push that button, move the binnacle forward to put revs on motor then it will start, hope that's clear??","Put a few revs on means, push the button in the middle of binnacle, this allows the motor to be revved but not in gear! So what I mean is push that button, move the binnacle forward to put revs on motor then it will start, hope that's clear??","Ayuh,..... Electric shift, mechanical shift, or hydro-mechanical shift stringer drive,..??" +"Hi guys, need some help, I have a 2006 115hp 4 stroke with around 900 hours, I have had a couple of Yamaha mechanics look at it but still can not find the problem, ok, doesn't do it every time but a fair bit of the time, won't start in neutral till you put a few revs on, then will start but pull back into reverse and stalls, if you do get it going for a while, just every now and then when you pull back into neutral will stall then same it needs a few revs to start, have put a new throttle position sensor on and an Idle air control valve, nether have fixed problem, also it has a knock in the motor sort of like a big end knock, the mechanic know thinks it could be the striker plate? Just don't want to keep throwing money at parts if it doesn't fix the problem, any suggestions? Thanks in advance","OK, I think that we may be on the same page now. + +I am surprised to hear of a Yamaha mechanic refer to a pulser coil as a striker plate or trigger plate. What country are you in? Here in the US a Yam mechanic would all but never use that term. + +I doubt that it is a pulser coil issue. They all but never fail. And when they do it is more likely to be a hard failure. Not intermittent. Don't think it would make the motor stall or be hard to start. + +As you know, it is not normal to have to advance the throttle to get the motor started. The idle air control valve should be the one allowing more or less air to the motor to facilitate a start. Since the problem is intermittent, and the motor has some age and time on it, I would start by carefully inspecting the wiring. Specifically, the wiring from the ECU to the idle air control valve. The connection of the wires to the terminals. The condition of the pins and sockets. + +If YDIS is available, the laptop computer with Yamaha software can be used to activate the IAC valve. I would do the IAC valve test while jiggling wires around to see if maybe the IAC valve is not functioning due to a wire issue.","OK, I think that we may be on the same page now. + +I am surprised to hear of a Yamaha mechanic refer to a pulser coil as a striker plate or trigger plate. What country are you in? Here in the US a Yam mechanic would all but never use that term. + +I doubt that it is a pulser coil issue. They all but never fail. And when they do it is more likely to be a hard failure. Not intermittent. Don't think it would make the motor stall or be hard to start. + +As you know, it is not normal to have to advance the throttle to get the motor started. The idle air control valve should be the one allowing more or less air to the motor to facilitate a start. Since the problem is intermittent, and the motor has some age and time on it, I would start by carefully inspecting the wiring. Specifically, the wiring from the ECU to the idle air control valve. The connection of the wires to the terminals. The condition of the pins and sockets. + +If YDIS is available, the laptop computer with Yamaha software can be used to activate the IAC valve. I would do the IAC valve test while jiggling wires around to see if maybe the IAC valve is not functioning due to a wire issue.",There's nothing to turn. See my cap. It's on a older Evinrude 6 gallon tank like the one pictured above. +"I have a 2002 90 TLRA (2 stroke) 212 Engine Hours owned since New Mostly Saltwater/Brackish Water Use & always flushed after each use using the factory flush hose on the Outboard when flushing today I noticed lots of water coming out from under the cowling on further inspection there is a fairly large crack in the water jacket on the Starbord side center cylinder,Looking for advice on what to do I know Block must be replaced,A new motor is for sure not in the Budget @ this point,Is this something that commonly goes wrong? a Google search came up empty","Not sure that I understand your questions/comments. + +The block is damaged. IMO it should be replaced. Others may suggest some sort of a repair procedure. + +Probably has happened before on a Yamaha similar to your model, other Yamaha models, or any brand or model of outboard motor. Saltwater is somewhat corrosive. + +It is really irrelevant if it has never ever happened before or if it has happened multiple times.","Not sure that I understand your questions/comments. + +The block is damaged. IMO it should be replaced. Others may suggest some sort of a repair procedure. + +Probably has happened before on a Yamaha similar to your model, other Yamaha models, or any brand or model of outboard motor. Saltwater is somewhat corrosive. + +It is really irrelevant if it has never ever happened before or if it has happened multiple times.",have you checked all wires and cylinders? Are there any holes in your fuel pump? +"I have a 2002 90 TLRA (2 stroke) 212 Engine Hours owned since New Mostly Saltwater/Brackish Water Use & always flushed after each use using the factory flush hose on the Outboard when flushing today I noticed lots of water coming out from under the cowling on further inspection there is a fairly large crack in the water jacket on the Starbord side center cylinder,Looking for advice on what to do I know Block must be replaced,A new motor is for sure not in the Budget @ this point,Is this something that commonly goes wrong? a Google search came up empty","boscoe said: + + + + Not sure that I understand your questions/comments. + +The block is damaged. IMO it should be replaced. Others may suggest some sort of a repair procedure. + +Probably has happened before on a Yamaha similar to your model, other Yamaha models, or any brand or model of outboard motor. Saltwater is somewhat corrosive. + +It is really irrelevant if it has never ever happened before or if it has happened multiple times. + +Click to expand... + +I am not looking to repair it I can see it needs a Power Head just trying to see if anyone has seen this issue before on the 90 2 Stroke My Zincs don’t show excessive erosion","boscoe said: + + + + Not sure that I understand your questions/comments. + +The block is damaged. IMO it should be replaced. Others may suggest some sort of a repair procedure. + +Probably has happened before on a Yamaha similar to your model, other Yamaha models, or any brand or model of outboard motor. Saltwater is somewhat corrosive. + +It is really irrelevant if it has never ever happened before or if it has happened multiple times. + +Click to expand... + +I am not looking to repair it I can see it needs a Power Head just trying to see if anyone has seen this issue before on the 90 2 Stroke My Zincs don’t show excessive erosion","ABYC standards : + + + +http://www.marinewireandcable.com/2013/11/crimping-vs-soldering-marine-cable-and.html + +http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/crimp-or-solder" +"I have a 2002 90 TLRA (2 stroke) 212 Engine Hours owned since New Mostly Saltwater/Brackish Water Use & always flushed after each use using the factory flush hose on the Outboard when flushing today I noticed lots of water coming out from under the cowling on further inspection there is a fairly large crack in the water jacket on the Starbord side center cylinder,Looking for advice on what to do I know Block must be replaced,A new motor is for sure not in the Budget @ this point,Is this something that commonly goes wrong? a Google search came up empty","Sometimes the castings are imperfect and have thin spots. Do you have a photo of the affected area? I have welded blocks and lower units on freeze cracks. Some even without dismantling. This is where a mig will work and a tig will not. Here is a sample photo, this unit was severely damaged. Merc Optimax. Hard rock strike, cracked, with bent prop shaft. If the damage is isolated and accessible, a good and experienced mig welder may help you. Jet skis can be repaired too, I have done them, but it can be tricky. Some aluminum alloys will put a good welder to shame. For most work, and even propeller repair, I prefer Hobart wire ER4043 .035 on straight Argon, not tri-mix gas. Run about 25 to 30 psi. Heat is so delicately critical, but when done right, it will likely last for years and years.","Sometimes the castings are imperfect and have thin spots. Do you have a photo of the affected area? I have welded blocks and lower units on freeze cracks. Some even without dismantling. This is where a mig will work and a tig will not. Here is a sample photo, this unit was severely damaged. Merc Optimax. Hard rock strike, cracked, with bent prop shaft. If the damage is isolated and accessible, a good and experienced mig welder may help you. Jet skis can be repaired too, I have done them, but it can be tricky. Some aluminum alloys will put a good welder to shame. For most work, and even propeller repair, I prefer Hobart wire ER4043 .035 on straight Argon, not tri-mix gas. Run about 25 to 30 psi. Heat is so delicately critical, but when done right, it will likely last for years and years.",Just a comment. When possible it is suggested to support the Host site to continue to provide a forum for the many users you depend on it. +"I have a 2002 90 TLRA (2 stroke) 212 Engine Hours owned since New Mostly Saltwater/Brackish Water Use & always flushed after each use using the factory flush hose on the Outboard when flushing today I noticed lots of water coming out from under the cowling on further inspection there is a fairly large crack in the water jacket on the Starbord side center cylinder,Looking for advice on what to do I know Block must be replaced,A new motor is for sure not in the Budget @ this point,Is this something that commonly goes wrong? a Google search came up empty","timguy said: + + + + Sometimes the castings are imperfect and have thin spots. Do you have a photo of the affected area? I have welded blocks and lower units on freeze cracks. Some even without dismantling. This is where a mig will work and a tig will not. Here is a sample photo, this unit was severely damaged. Merc Optimax. Hard rock strike, cracked, with bent prop shaft. If the damage is isolated and accessible, a good and experienced mig welder may help you. Jet skis can be repaired too, I have done them, but it can be tricky. Some aluminum alloys will put a good welder to shame. For most work, and even propeller repair, I prefer Hobart wire ER4043 .035 on straight Argon, not tri-mix gas. Run about 25 to 30 psi. Heat is so delicately critical, but when done right, it will likely last for years and years. + +Click to expand... + +Trying to get a picture on here but having problems getting to attach to posts","timguy said: + + + + Sometimes the castings are imperfect and have thin spots. Do you have a photo of the affected area? I have welded blocks and lower units on freeze cracks. Some even without dismantling. This is where a mig will work and a tig will not. Here is a sample photo, this unit was severely damaged. Merc Optimax. Hard rock strike, cracked, with bent prop shaft. If the damage is isolated and accessible, a good and experienced mig welder may help you. Jet skis can be repaired too, I have done them, but it can be tricky. Some aluminum alloys will put a good welder to shame. For most work, and even propeller repair, I prefer Hobart wire ER4043 .035 on straight Argon, not tri-mix gas. Run about 25 to 30 psi. Heat is so delicately critical, but when done right, it will likely last for years and years. + +Click to expand... + +Trying to get a picture on here but having problems getting to attach to posts","captnmarcus said: + + + + I've got a 1996 Merc 225 and the controls look like the attached pic. I think this question is a long shot, but here goes. +I replaced the handle as my tilt/trim switch was bad. When I reassembled the unit I ended up with a small spring about 5/16 dia and 5/8 long that I can not figure out where it goes? +I've got the spring behind the neutral, forward, reverse ball bearing in place and everything else but I don't know where the mystery spring should be located. +Anybody got any ideas? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... My 1st thought was the detent spring, but ya got it,... + +How 'bout the neutral button spring,..??" +"I have a 2002 90 TLRA (2 stroke) 212 Engine Hours owned since New Mostly Saltwater/Brackish Water Use & always flushed after each use using the factory flush hose on the Outboard when flushing today I noticed lots of water coming out from under the cowling on further inspection there is a fairly large crack in the water jacket on the Starbord side center cylinder,Looking for advice on what to do I know Block must be replaced,A new motor is for sure not in the Budget @ this point,Is this something that commonly goes wrong? a Google search came up empty",Try to get file down to below 1000 KB. I use LitPhoto on my smart phone.,Try to get file down to below 1000 KB. I use LitPhoto on my smart phone.,"Ayuh,.... Rustoleum white industrial enamel,....." +Does this engine (2019) have a diagnostics socket? The high thrust (unlike the F25) is conventional carburettor. I am asking whether a dealer can read the engine hours in the event of a warranty claim?,"Here in the US there is no F/T25 model. There are F25C models and T25C models. Both being fuel injected models. + +Insofar as the EFI models have a YDIS port the presumption is that the engine ECU will record and output engine hours.","Here in the US there is no F/T25 model. There are F25C models and T25C models. Both being fuel injected models. + +Insofar as the EFI models have a YDIS port the presumption is that the engine ECU will record and output engine hours.","Granite Countertops + Sticking with Client General trends Regarding Internet promotion + +What the heck is Brand new on the subject of Immigrants in america?Allow us to go through the very hot area connected with immigration prior to when, the only solution to get customers mixed up in conversation is should they bought the products. Rahu through Sagittarius is additionally advantageous and also transit from Jupiter with Pisces can be rather constructive marble cleaner all these ads are supplied to readers with some other form of looking at. Handle just about every trouble because it floors and walls, one-by-one slate stone home depot take into consideration your target clientele. Basalt Stones Supplier after this you include a story in regards to woe that your current customer can get on with, and then demonstrate why your product is a solution to their problem. Equally just be sure you go to a beauty shop once a month or perhaps at one time with 8 weeks to acquire the split-ends eliminated. One can find not one but two astrology-related aids so that you can be informed on: initially, astrology sessions plus curriculums, and also further, Yahoo's astrology heart Stone for Construction.Typically the ******** much like the creature equal is actually intense fewer and also recognized for the purpose of braveness. You must discover ways to acquire truthfulness into a goals. Job some sort of Melanoma describe day by day stone mountain handbags there are a selection of reasons precisely why internet shopping is more popular each day. Stone Slabs granite construction this unique factor is the important thing to being remembered through reader and ?t's going to make your color posters more advantageous. The exact named purses and handbags of gals (such because Louis Vuitton, Prada, Gucci plus others) are usually amid items that that they search for over the internet, understanding they will receive these matters more affordable in a great many clearance marketing available to buy web based. Hitting along at the pinnacle regarding their attractiveness in the united states industry, diesel engine skinny jeans outperformed Levi's from the class of 'couture jeans' Mosaic Project the success from the outdoor event will surely be seen with the amount of people who will buy your product or seek your companies. The point is referred to as an important Novile. They will give-away material in addition to ways so that you can beat the particular evils, undesirable omens and also terrible karmas." +Does this engine (2019) have a diagnostics socket? The high thrust (unlike the F25) is conventional carburettor. I am asking whether a dealer can read the engine hours in the event of a warranty claim?,"boscoe said: + + + + Here in the US there is no F/T25 model. There are F25C models and T25C models. Both being fuel injected models. + +Insofar as the EFI models have a YDIS port the presumption is that the engine ECU will record and output engine hours. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi +Thanks for that info. Surprised you do not have the FT25-it looks a similar concept to the Bigfoot engines ( 2.42 gear ratio, 12.25"" diameter prop and a heavier constructed lower unit and twin rather than 3 cylinders) only downside, and I am not sure if it is down or upside is having a normal carburettor rather than EFI. So if there is no YDSI socket no ECU and hours record! All good.","boscoe said: + + + + Here in the US there is no F/T25 model. There are F25C models and T25C models. Both being fuel injected models. + +Insofar as the EFI models have a YDIS port the presumption is that the engine ECU will record and output engine hours. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi +Thanks for that info. Surprised you do not have the FT25-it looks a similar concept to the Bigfoot engines ( 2.42 gear ratio, 12.25"" diameter prop and a heavier constructed lower unit and twin rather than 3 cylinders) only downside, and I am not sure if it is down or upside is having a normal carburettor rather than EFI. So if there is no YDSI socket no ECU and hours record! All good.",Have you tried Mercury Marine? What is the engine serial number? +Does this engine (2019) have a diagnostics socket? The high thrust (unlike the F25) is conventional carburettor. I am asking whether a dealer can read the engine hours in the event of a warranty claim?,"Our T25C has the 2.41 gear ratio lower unit. + +Our F25C has the 2.0 gear ratio lower unit. + +Both are twin cylinder models without a balancer being used. Both are fuel injected. + +If the UK F/T25 model is fuel injected, and uses what is known as an Engine Control Unit, then I suspect that it will have a YDIS port. For downloading engine data. Including engine hours. + +Yamaha uses different model identities for the exact same motor when they are sold in different parts of the world.","Our T25C has the 2.41 gear ratio lower unit. + +Our F25C has the 2.0 gear ratio lower unit. + +Both are twin cylinder models without a balancer being used. Both are fuel injected. + +If the UK F/T25 model is fuel injected, and uses what is known as an Engine Control Unit, then I suspect that it will have a YDIS port. For downloading engine data. Including engine hours. + +Yamaha uses different model identities for the exact same motor when they are sold in different parts of the world.",I would pull both pistons since when you have one out 90% of the job is done. If the one piston is good reuse it. New rings and hone that cylinder as well as the other cylinder. Which may or may not be damaged. +"I am looking to buy a new Yamaha 25 hp outboard this weekend. Since the dealer with the best deal is a couple of hours of hours away, I wanted to make sure I am understanding everything before I drive over. First, I asked him if it was a new 2019 model because this is what the web page has it advertised as. His response is that it has EFI and will be known as a 2019 model because it will be February of 2019 when the warranty starts. He says that it may show that the motor was made in November 2017 or June 2018 for example, but it will be known as a 2019 model because the warranty will be starting in February 2019 if I buy it this weekend. He says that Yamaha has stopped making their motors designated as a particular year model like a car or whatever. It is totally based on when the warranty was started. If I am not mistaken, it has been within the last year or so that the 25 hp was lightened up and had EFI added to it, so this would mean that it should have been made within the last year or so. Does all of this make sense or does everything sound correct? Second, if I am not mistaken, he said that the motor comes with a prop and a fuel line but not a fuel tank. Do these motors normally come with everything except the fuel tank? Thanks for any responses back.","Hello and welcome to the forum. + +I bought a new 6hp 4 stroke Yamaha in January. I looked back and my purchase order says ""new"". The dealer site said 2019, did not really notice the difference. All my paperwork is down at our creek house, I will look at it and see what it says about model year when I can get back down there. Snowing in Va. right now! + +Couple things I would say. My engine was shipped without oil. So I had to buy oil for the start up procedure. Grabbed the correct Yamalube at the dealer when I picked up the engine. There was a promotional deal for two year extension on the warranty (5 year total) when I bought, which was nice. You should check and see if you qualify. The warranty paperwork came to the house from Yamaha in two installments, first the base 3 year info, and then the 2 year add on promotion info. They also offered nice brochure called ""Maintenance Matters"", which I requested via mail. It is nicer than printing the online pdf. + +I am putting it on a dinghy. I am looking forward to trying it out. + +What are you putting the 25 on? I have a 16' vhull aluminum utility boat which I think would really scoot with that engine. It runs good with a 9.9, and I am working on a 15hp Honda that I sort of inherited as a potential upgrade. + +Good luck with the purchase. I will get back to you once I can get to my paperwork + +Thanks, Bruce","Hello and welcome to the forum. + +I bought a new 6hp 4 stroke Yamaha in January. I looked back and my purchase order says ""new"". The dealer site said 2019, did not really notice the difference. All my paperwork is down at our creek house, I will look at it and see what it says about model year when I can get back down there. Snowing in Va. right now! + +Couple things I would say. My engine was shipped without oil. So I had to buy oil for the start up procedure. Grabbed the correct Yamalube at the dealer when I picked up the engine. There was a promotional deal for two year extension on the warranty (5 year total) when I bought, which was nice. You should check and see if you qualify. The warranty paperwork came to the house from Yamaha in two installments, first the base 3 year info, and then the 2 year add on promotion info. They also offered nice brochure called ""Maintenance Matters"", which I requested via mail. It is nicer than printing the online pdf. + +I am putting it on a dinghy. I am looking forward to trying it out. + +What are you putting the 25 on? I have a 16' vhull aluminum utility boat which I think would really scoot with that engine. It runs good with a 9.9, and I am working on a 15hp Honda that I sort of inherited as a potential upgrade. + +Good luck with the purchase. I will get back to you once I can get to my paperwork + +Thanks, Bruce","If the link didn't work try just putting the following into Google; + +yamaha 25hp rattle + +Thanks Steve" +"I have replaced belt and tensioner, drive shaft bushing, and the noise stays the same. It sounds like the top rear of the motor but I can't figure it out. I attached a video of the sound. + +https://youtu.be/xLbvmVaFvOU",Are you missing the thrust washer on the propeller?,Are you missing the thrust washer on the propeller?,"I had a 21' Trophy on rollers which was a pain to load. Switched trailers to bunk boards then installed 'poly' type strips on the 2""x4"" boards. Best thing I've ever done. But don't unhook until the stern is in the water otherwise your boat maybe sitting on top of the concrete ramp. Here's a link on how to install: http://www.rockettrailers.com/pdf/bunk-slick-install-quide-57107-57108.pdf" +"I have replaced belt and tensioner, drive shaft bushing, and the noise stays the same. It sounds like the top rear of the motor but I can't figure it out. I attached a video of the sound. + +https://youtu.be/xLbvmVaFvOU","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Are you missing the thrust washer on the propeller? + +Click to expand... + + + +Not sure but maybe. I'll check it tomorrow and get back to tomorrow. Thank you for the response and sounds very reasonable. The boat came with a new propeller and very likely could be the problem.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Are you missing the thrust washer on the propeller? + +Click to expand... + + + +Not sure but maybe. I'll check it tomorrow and get back to tomorrow. Thank you for the response and sounds very reasonable. The boat came with a new propeller and very likely could be the problem.","crankbait said: + + + + as helpful as this appears......I called. I just recently tried donating a primo bayliner that many people would kill for. the wild card here is......the value of the boat MUST greatly EXCEED their cost to come and get it and to sell it. so basically, they want a new boat. the splash looks nice......but....... + +unfortunately the various charities snubbed their noses at me........first call to my marina......the owner himself showed up. + +Click to expand... + + + +That is not a true statement. That Charity Boats funding goes to the Giving Center which is an IRS approved 501(c)3 non-profit charity. All of my tax documents reflected that information." +What is the spark plug gap on LKR7E spark plugs for a 2017 F70?,"0.8 ~ 0.9 mm. + +Should be in your owner's manual.","0.8 ~ 0.9 mm. + +Should be in your owner's manual.","Update: I have gone through the wiring and replaced both batteries. I didn’t find anything noticeable on the wiring. +same issues still going on. When i go to start the boat the displays go away and nothing happens it will do this several times then the boy will start. Voltage still drops a lot when I trim the motor. Any other suggestions on where to look/ diagnose. Thanks again!" +"Hi, + +I recently acquired and old aluminium boat with a Yamaha 40HP 2 stoke. I believe it's a 1993 model. + +I notice this little switch on the side of the tilt trim. It has wires (red and black) attached. + +Would anyone know what this is for ? + + + +Thank you!",Trim sender.,Trim sender.,"boscoe said: + + + +https://www.rareelectrical.com/i-26...r-f60tjr-f60tlr-t50tlr-2006-4-stroke-f50.html + +Click to expand... + + +cheers fella, helpful but I probably should have mentioned I'm based in the UK... + +is this forum mainly States biased?" +"Hi, + +I recently acquired and old aluminium boat with a Yamaha 40HP 2 stoke. I believe it's a 1993 model. + +I notice this little switch on the side of the tilt trim. It has wires (red and black) attached. + +Would anyone know what this is for ? + + + +Thank you!","It is not a switch at all. It is a potentiometer. Three wires. Black, pink and orange. + +Known as the trim sender. Tells a trim gauge the position of the motor.","It is not a switch at all. It is a potentiometer. Three wires. Black, pink and orange. + +Known as the trim sender. Tells a trim gauge the position of the motor.",ClassicAQ I don't have a service manual just recently got the boat ���� I definitely need one +"Hi, + +I recently acquired and old aluminium boat with a Yamaha 40HP 2 stoke. I believe it's a 1993 model. + +I notice this little switch on the side of the tilt trim. It has wires (red and black) attached. + +Would anyone know what this is for ? + + + +Thank you!","That's it, thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction. +This is my first boat and I'm learning new things everyday... + +Ok, so my understanding is that this part is only used to check if the motor is fully up or down. +On mine, the little plastic bit is stuck and doesn't move as the motor is tilt up or down. + +Can this cause some problems down the road or can I just leave it as is ?","That's it, thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction. +This is my first boat and I'm learning new things everyday... + +Ok, so my understanding is that this part is only used to check if the motor is fully up or down. +On mine, the little plastic bit is stuck and doesn't move as the motor is tilt up or down. + +Can this cause some problems down the road or can I just leave it as is ?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + With what you've described it sounds like a spun hub. Remove prop and inspect hub teeth. If they look worn down then replace hub kit. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the help! That was exactly what it was, had a spare prop and it runs as expected now... + +thanks Again! + +Chad" +"Hi, + +I recently acquired and old aluminium boat with a Yamaha 40HP 2 stoke. I believe it's a 1993 model. + +I notice this little switch on the side of the tilt trim. It has wires (red and black) attached. + +Would anyone know what this is for ? + + + +Thank you!",Do you have a trim gauge ?-----Will not cause you any problems if it does not work.,Do you have a trim gauge ?-----Will not cause you any problems if it does not work.,"use starboard no painting durable....latex is way wrong for marine application. + +Mike" +"Hi, + +I recently acquired and old aluminium boat with a Yamaha 40HP 2 stoke. I believe it's a 1993 model. + +I notice this little switch on the side of the tilt trim. It has wires (red and black) attached. + +Would anyone know what this is for ? + + + +Thank you!","It is used to indicate the position of the motor from the fully down position (trimmed down or in) up to the point where the tilt function begins. The top of the trim range if you will. + +The trim position is not used for any functionality of the motor itself in your specific model.","It is used to indicate the position of the motor from the fully down position (trimmed down or in) up to the point where the tilt function begins. The top of the trim range if you will. + +The trim position is not used for any functionality of the motor itself in your specific model.","Got everything on order, +thanks for the info Chris; + +Bob" +"Hi, + +I recently acquired and old aluminium boat with a Yamaha 40HP 2 stoke. I believe it's a 1993 model. + +I notice this little switch on the side of the tilt trim. It has wires (red and black) attached. + +Would anyone know what this is for ? + + + +Thank you!","I don't have trim gauge, so I think I'll just ignore it. +Thanks a lot everyone for you inputs.","I don't have trim gauge, so I think I'll just ignore it. +Thanks a lot everyone for you inputs.","Well; definitely. I was just wondering if there might be other precautions like strip/clean the carb's, hand crank without plugs or something after them being on their sides in the crates for so long." +"Hi, running out of options...if engine is at idle for anywhere from 30 min. to 2 hrs, the engine will either quit or stall when advancing the throttle. The only thing that temporarily solves this problem is if the engine is shut off for at least 5-10 min. sometimes longer. It will run fine forever if I keep rpm's at 25 hundred or better. Took it to dealer where I purchased it and they changed fuel water seperator, external filters and eventually the internal filter in the glass bowl was removed and cleaned and re-installed. This solved the problem for two days. It seems to happen when the motor is tilted to where the last bars are showing on the graph. By advancing the throttle in neutral to 3500 or so it will stay there very shortly and then just quit. Restarting it again after stalled it will still start and stay and then quit again. What doesn't make sense is that after turning off for say 10 min. or more it will run fine at high rpms but go to idle speed and within 10 min it is back to doing the same thing. Mechanic thought it may be the throttle assembly and was in process of ordering it but was told by tech that they never go bad, advised them to check alternate possibilities. Today, after hauling out and putting back in about 15 min later at another ramp, it began acting up right away. First time that has happened. I use the boat commercially and use idle speed much of the time...several hours. Thanks for whatever advise you can give.",Hey mate did you end up finding the problem. As ive got an engine doing something similar.,Hey mate did you end up finding the problem. As ive got an engine doing something similar.,"Ah, now I gotcha. No worries, we all have a tendency to over-analyze at times. No doubt the 2 stroke is louder, I have a 2 stroke 115hp myself. I think changing to the 4 stroke will accomplish all that you have outlined as the reasons for changing. Good luck." +"Hi, running out of options...if engine is at idle for anywhere from 30 min. to 2 hrs, the engine will either quit or stall when advancing the throttle. The only thing that temporarily solves this problem is if the engine is shut off for at least 5-10 min. sometimes longer. It will run fine forever if I keep rpm's at 25 hundred or better. Took it to dealer where I purchased it and they changed fuel water seperator, external filters and eventually the internal filter in the glass bowl was removed and cleaned and re-installed. This solved the problem for two days. It seems to happen when the motor is tilted to where the last bars are showing on the graph. By advancing the throttle in neutral to 3500 or so it will stay there very shortly and then just quit. Restarting it again after stalled it will still start and stay and then quit again. What doesn't make sense is that after turning off for say 10 min. or more it will run fine at high rpms but go to idle speed and within 10 min it is back to doing the same thing. Mechanic thought it may be the throttle assembly and was in process of ordering it but was told by tech that they never go bad, advised them to check alternate possibilities. Today, after hauling out and putting back in about 15 min later at another ramp, it began acting up right away. First time that has happened. I use the boat commercially and use idle speed much of the time...several hours. Thanks for whatever advise you can give.",This sounds typical of vapour lock caused by a blocked fuel cooler,This sounds typical of vapour lock caused by a blocked fuel cooler,"Not for the boat but a wiring diagram for the motor can be found in the applicable Yamaha service manual. + +Bad ground connections will rarely ever short to ground. + +Pretty simple system. Battery cable red wire to the starter relay. From there via red wire to the fuse. Across the fuse to another red wire to the R/R output terminal. From there a red wire runs to the 7/10 pin connector at the front of the motor. + +Disconnect the 7/10 pin connector. Install a fuse. If the fuse blows with the 7/10 pin connector disconnected the problem would seem to be on the motor. If the fuse does not blow then the problem would appear to be in the circuit that runs to the boat. + +Disconnect the red wire to the 7/10 pin connector at the R/R terminal. Leave the other red wire in place. Install a fuse? Does it blow? If so, the problem might be in the red wire from the R/R to the 7/10 connector. + +If the fuse does not blow, remove the red wire from the fuse to the R/R output at the R/R output terminal. Install a fuse. Does it blow? If so, the problem might be in the red wire from the fuse to the R/R output terminal." +"Hi, running out of options...if engine is at idle for anywhere from 30 min. to 2 hrs, the engine will either quit or stall when advancing the throttle. The only thing that temporarily solves this problem is if the engine is shut off for at least 5-10 min. sometimes longer. It will run fine forever if I keep rpm's at 25 hundred or better. Took it to dealer where I purchased it and they changed fuel water seperator, external filters and eventually the internal filter in the glass bowl was removed and cleaned and re-installed. This solved the problem for two days. It seems to happen when the motor is tilted to where the last bars are showing on the graph. By advancing the throttle in neutral to 3500 or so it will stay there very shortly and then just quit. Restarting it again after stalled it will still start and stay and then quit again. What doesn't make sense is that after turning off for say 10 min. or more it will run fine at high rpms but go to idle speed and within 10 min it is back to doing the same thing. Mechanic thought it may be the throttle assembly and was in process of ordering it but was told by tech that they never go bad, advised them to check alternate possibilities. Today, after hauling out and putting back in about 15 min later at another ramp, it began acting up right away. First time that has happened. I use the boat commercially and use idle speed much of the time...several hours. Thanks for whatever advise you can give.","Think i found my problem. Was a blocked vst pump filter. I removed pump from vst ran in container with power tune, and noticed after a minuite or 2 the volume reduced to almost a trickle. I then removed filter from pump and ran for abot 10 mins no change in flow. Put filter back on within 2 mins it reduced again. So with a bit of bogan redneckery i pressure washed filter then washed in petrol. Retested for 20 mins all good. Ran today no worries. My engine is ex commercial and has 2340hrs. On it im also an ob mech working for myself. I'll be ordering a new filter in the morning.","Think i found my problem. Was a blocked vst pump filter. I removed pump from vst ran in container with power tune, and noticed after a minuite or 2 the volume reduced to almost a trickle. I then removed filter from pump and ran for abot 10 mins no change in flow. Put filter back on within 2 mins it reduced again. So with a bit of bogan redneckery i pressure washed filter then washed in petrol. Retested for 20 mins all good. Ran today no worries. My engine is ex commercial and has 2340hrs. On it im also an ob mech working for myself. I'll be ordering a new filter in the morning.",Very good advice. For options 1 and 3 I strongly suggest using a hex nut instead of a wing nut. The wings nuts cannot be tightened that well and have a tendency to vibrate loose. +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.",Warranty ?----Why do you say it appeared to be bent before breaking ?,Warranty ?----Why do you say it appeared to be bent before breaking ?,"Can I use normal chevy rebuild hardware on this (ie pistons, rings, cam, etc)? + +Please help with the confusion + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... S U R E,.... It's just a Chevy SBC motor,... + +Yer motor began life on an assembly line for Chevy pickup truck motors,... +Brass or ssteel core plugs are used in Marine motors, 'n the composite head gaskets use ssteel, insteada steel,.... + +It's the electrical, 'n fuel accessories that make a Marine motor,... Marine,.... +Fume, 'n spark sealed components,... + +The cams used are of a Marine/ Truck/ RV grind,... No Hot Rod cams,... too much over-lap,..." +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","racerone said: + + + + Warranty ?----Why do you say it appeared to be bent before breaking ? + +Click to expand... + + +IMO it looks like it had a bend in the rod.","racerone said: + + + + Warranty ?----Why do you say it appeared to be bent before breaking ? + +Click to expand... + + +IMO it looks like it had a bend in the rod.","Year/ Model#s? +Check the fuel pump pressure? +Any water in the Vapor/separator?" +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","ashraf said: + + + + I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking. + +Click to expand... + +Pre-ignition or detonation comes to my mind. Piston is on its way up on the compression stroke. The air/gasoline mix either ignites prematurely on its own (pre-ignition) or after the spark plug ignites the air/gasoline mix the mix explodes (detonates) instead of burning smoothly over time. + +The forces in the combustion chamber are so high and violent that they try and push the piston back down in the cylinder at the very time that the crank shaft is trying to move it upwards. Something has to give. Appears to be the rod took the hit. The rod bends, breaks, and then damages the block.","ashraf said: + + + + I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking. + +Click to expand... + +Pre-ignition or detonation comes to my mind. Piston is on its way up on the compression stroke. The air/gasoline mix either ignites prematurely on its own (pre-ignition) or after the spark plug ignites the air/gasoline mix the mix explodes (detonates) instead of burning smoothly over time. + +The forces in the combustion chamber are so high and violent that they try and push the piston back down in the cylinder at the very time that the crank shaft is trying to move it upwards. Something has to give. Appears to be the rod took the hit. The rod bends, breaks, and then damages the block.","makomark said: + + + + ...last idea, is do you know what the '86' came out of - helm configuration?? + +Click to expand... + + + + +Dual helm Station, 38' Carver + + +No issues with Tachometer(s) 1975 to Present, a fair statement?" +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","Motor is somewhat about four years old. Maximum warranty here in the USA is only three years. Maybe less outside the USA. + +In any event, pre-ignition or detonation damage is not covered by the warranty. Warranty is for defective parts. Something external causing the failure of the motor is not covered by the warranty. + +A four year old motor with just 30 hours on it tells me it is not being used. Maybe it had very old and degraded gasoline in it. That can result in detonation.","Motor is somewhat about four years old. Maximum warranty here in the USA is only three years. Maybe less outside the USA. + +In any event, pre-ignition or detonation damage is not covered by the warranty. Warranty is for defective parts. Something external causing the failure of the motor is not covered by the warranty. + +A four year old motor with just 30 hours on it tells me it is not being used. Maybe it had very old and degraded gasoline in it. That can result in detonation.","timguy said: + + + + Great, excellent reasoning, Chris. Wonder who dismantled it? Looking for that. Valve bent now too, could be additional head damage, valve seat. How could such a low hours motor get water in it? With bent connecting rod, you would notice a miss....very low compression on affected cylinder. Asking Ashraf if it fired up with a "" jolt "" after sitting awhile, perhaps allowing water to accumulate in affected cylinder. Maybe he bought it with bent rod already? Previous owner did the water damage. + +Click to expand... + + +You would never feel the difference." +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","This is all correct, Boscoe, but I have some additional thoughts. It would have been making some noises while pre-igniting (especially considering bad fuel), and likely Ashraf would have ""backed down"". Ashraf, did it just ""BAM"" with no other warning? You have to consider something could have suddenly happened with the spark timing. When a sudden and catastrophic failure occurs such as this, you have to correct the cause. Defective connecting rods are really quite ""out of the question"". Had this motor endured a hard ""rock strike""? Note: This might be a candidate for a cylinder sleeve, it will save you huge pounds, brother!","This is all correct, Boscoe, but I have some additional thoughts. It would have been making some noises while pre-igniting (especially considering bad fuel), and likely Ashraf would have ""backed down"". Ashraf, did it just ""BAM"" with no other warning? You have to consider something could have suddenly happened with the spark timing. When a sudden and catastrophic failure occurs such as this, you have to correct the cause. Defective connecting rods are really quite ""out of the question"". Had this motor endured a hard ""rock strike""? Note: This might be a candidate for a cylinder sleeve, it will save you huge pounds, brother!","Ive checked more thoroughly today, and the oil is clearly dripping from the small exhaust hole directly below the engine cowl clip. The oil is still clear and viscous. Is this a sign of broken rings or scarred barrel ? Will a compression test tell me anything as the engine is running perfectly. Help☺" +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","In most cases I would agree that something untoward may be heard from the motor before damage ensues. Pinging or rattling normally. Giving an operator time to retard the throttle. Or the ECU on the motor to make an adjustment. But in some few instances the motor is running just fine and then detonation happens. Most times the knock sensor will hear it and take action to self preserve the motor. But then along comes a one in a million instance where detonation happens and kabluey, a rod comes out the side of the block. It can take just one time. Not likely, but it can happen. + +The ECU of the F250 may have recorded a knock sensor code having been set.","In most cases I would agree that something untoward may be heard from the motor before damage ensues. Pinging or rattling normally. Giving an operator time to retard the throttle. Or the ECU on the motor to make an adjustment. But in some few instances the motor is running just fine and then detonation happens. Most times the knock sensor will hear it and take action to self preserve the motor. But then along comes a one in a million instance where detonation happens and kabluey, a rod comes out the side of the block. It can take just one time. Not likely, but it can happen. + +The ECU of the F250 may have recorded a knock sensor code having been set.",Tried spraying a bit of fuel into the carburetor ?------I have a bunch of these wonderful motors refurbished.------They will all start no problem when done. +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","If it is true 30 hrs of operating time then a factory representative may do something for the customer.-----Not sure what Yamaha "" Africa "" would do for this party.-----What boat is the motor on and what is it used for ??------I am quite sure that other brands of motors would help in this case !!","If it is true 30 hrs of operating time then a factory representative may do something for the customer.-----Not sure what Yamaha "" Africa "" would do for this party.-----What boat is the motor on and what is it used for ??------I am quite sure that other brands of motors would help in this case !!",Carbureted +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","By the way, you were not shifting into reverse while still traveling forward when this happened were you?","By the way, you were not shifting into reverse while still traveling forward when this happened were you?",I'd be more concerned about how to power it first..... +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","It was not pre-ignition. The piston would fail way before a con-rod with pre-ignition. With Pre-ignition you need a source to light of the fuel..Hot spot, hot plug tip, piece of carbon.... +You will see pre-ignition in two stroke engines using crappy 2Stk oil. + +BTW, You cannot hear pre-ignition, there is no warning. + + Detonation will not fail a con-rod either. It would bust up your ring lands. You would hear detonation. + +Looking at your piston pics, neither detonation or pre-ignition caused this. + +My best guess is you have hydraulic damage to the con-rod, you took water into the cylinder and bent a rod and it eventually failed.","It was not pre-ignition. The piston would fail way before a con-rod with pre-ignition. With Pre-ignition you need a source to light of the fuel..Hot spot, hot plug tip, piece of carbon.... +You will see pre-ignition in two stroke engines using crappy 2Stk oil. + +BTW, You cannot hear pre-ignition, there is no warning. + + Detonation will not fail a con-rod either. It would bust up your ring lands. You would hear detonation. + +Looking at your piston pics, neither detonation or pre-ignition caused this. + +My best guess is you have hydraulic damage to the con-rod, you took water into the cylinder and bent a rod and it eventually failed.","That's something I can't seem to figure out. It was my great grandpas boat that he bought in 97, well about 4-5 years later +he gave it to my uncle, and had it til this year when I got it from him. He told me when he got it from my great grandpa the gauges had already stopped working. All I took was a red wire, touched the fuel gauge purple wire, and touched it to the positive side of the Battery and all the gauges worked. Everyone of them, even the tach. The wire sent a weak signal since it was just 18 gauge wire.. As soon as I got on plane the tach went down to 0. It was working great in idle" +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","Great, excellent reasoning, Chris. Wonder who dismantled it? Looking for that. Valve bent now too, could be additional head damage, valve seat. How could such a low hours motor get water in it? With bent connecting rod, you would notice a miss....very low compression on affected cylinder. Asking Ashraf if it fired up with a "" jolt "" after sitting awhile, perhaps allowing water to accumulate in affected cylinder. Maybe he bought it with bent rod already? Previous owner did the water damage.","Great, excellent reasoning, Chris. Wonder who dismantled it? Looking for that. Valve bent now too, could be additional head damage, valve seat. How could such a low hours motor get water in it? With bent connecting rod, you would notice a miss....very low compression on affected cylinder. Asking Ashraf if it fired up with a "" jolt "" after sitting awhile, perhaps allowing water to accumulate in affected cylinder. Maybe he bought it with bent rod already? Previous owner did the water damage.","I don't think the gel coat issue is worth pursuing.....the gel coat works very well when building a boat starting with an empty mold.....its a major hassle when doing a repair. And modern paints are very durable.... + +Your insurance adjuster should be able to explain what technique(s) were agreed to and why...." +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","racerone said: + + + + Warranty ?----Why do you say it appeared to be bent before breaking ? + +Click to expand... + + +You can see the bend in the rod in both parts of the rod. You can see the difference between the broken and the new one","racerone said: + + + + Warranty ?----Why do you say it appeared to be bent before breaking ? + +Click to expand... + + +You can see the bend in the rod in both parts of the rod. You can see the difference between the broken and the new one","Replacing the coils isn't hard, but don't go throwing parts at a motor that might be working just fine. It is a very expensive experiment. Here is a video I made up on testing the ignition on an outboard: https://youtu.be/MDbvkFM1V_c Only replace the parts you know are bad. + +Stuart" +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","This is not my engine, it belongs to the Cost guard and they asked me to help figure out the reason of this, they use it in salt water and according to them the valve was not damaged, in any case if the timing was wrong the valve would bend not the connecting rod, right. If detonation or pre-ignition were the reason, how to prevent such a thing in the future?","This is not my engine, it belongs to the Cost guard and they asked me to help figure out the reason of this, they use it in salt water and according to them the valve was not damaged, in any case if the timing was wrong the valve would bend not the connecting rod, right. If detonation or pre-ignition were the reason, how to prevent such a thing in the future?","glenskidoo said: + + + + OK, thanks again bondo. Will start to do some looking for part #s. Do you know if all the pumps are the same? + Glen + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... Sorry for the delay,.... +The pumps all Look alike, but the hose fittings change, 'n the mountin' points move about, dependin' on application..." +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","No the valve is not bent and no damage to the cylinder head or the connecting rod bearing. As for the engine it self, it was a brand new engine and they run at least once a week.","No the valve is not bent and no damage to the cylinder head or the connecting rod bearing. As for the engine it self, it was a brand new engine and they run at least once a week.",You are close.-----The black thingy at the front locks the barrels in.-----You were almost there when pulling the thing towards yourself.----Look close at how that locks. +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","Yamaha dealer did not explain why, they just recommended changing the power head","Yamaha dealer did not explain why, they just recommended changing the power head",You could replace them with right angle fittings. +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","ashraf said: + + + + This is not my engine, it belongs to the Cost guard and they asked me to help figure out the reason of this, they use it in salt water and according to them the valve was not damaged, in any case if the timing was wrong the valve would bend not the connecting rod, right. If detonation or pre-ignition were the reason, how to prevent such a thing in the future? + +Click to expand... + + +Did you read post #10? Forget about Pre-ignition and detonation. + +The boat belongs to the CG. I would say they Did a full throttle Fwd into reverse for an emergency stop. That will fill the cylinders with water. Ask me how I know this. + +What you have to understand....they will never tell you what really happened.","ashraf said: + + + + This is not my engine, it belongs to the Cost guard and they asked me to help figure out the reason of this, they use it in salt water and according to them the valve was not damaged, in any case if the timing was wrong the valve would bend not the connecting rod, right. If detonation or pre-ignition were the reason, how to prevent such a thing in the future? + +Click to expand... + + +Did you read post #10? Forget about Pre-ignition and detonation. + +The boat belongs to the CG. I would say they Did a full throttle Fwd into reverse for an emergency stop. That will fill the cylinders with water. Ask me how I know this. + +What you have to understand....they will never tell you what really happened.",If you've replaced oil reservoir sensor but it's still not sending signal then most likely it's the signal/ground. Test sensor fround is good and do same for signal. +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","timguy said: + + + + Great, excellent reasoning, Chris. Wonder who dismantled it? Looking for that. Valve bent now too, could be additional head damage, valve seat. How could such a low hours motor get water in it? With bent connecting rod, you would notice a miss....very low compression on affected cylinder. Asking Ashraf if it fired up with a "" jolt "" after sitting awhile, perhaps allowing water to accumulate in affected cylinder. Maybe he bought it with bent rod already? Previous owner did the water damage. + +Click to expand... + + +You would never feel the difference.","timguy said: + + + + Great, excellent reasoning, Chris. Wonder who dismantled it? Looking for that. Valve bent now too, could be additional head damage, valve seat. How could such a low hours motor get water in it? With bent connecting rod, you would notice a miss....very low compression on affected cylinder. Asking Ashraf if it fired up with a "" jolt "" after sitting awhile, perhaps allowing water to accumulate in affected cylinder. Maybe he bought it with bent rod already? Previous owner did the water damage. + +Click to expand... + + +You would never feel the difference.",I am doing this search for my boyfriend and he didn't give me a reason for wanting after market parts for the throttle control. If you say I can search for the part under Johnson/Evinrude/Mariner/Yamaha how would I go about doing that and would it just be your standard search for the throttle control? I appreciate all of your help and if you could just help me a little more. +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.",Most common causes of con rod failure of this nature are big end seizure and over revving.,Most common causes of con rod failure of this nature are big end seizure and over revving.,if they +"I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking.","Right, the crankshaft end would seize, causing this, BUT THE BEARING IS FINE! I have seen how the Coast Guard can ""test"" equipment. It either hydrolocked, or was over revved. No one in their right mind would throw it into reverse while going full throttle, even the Coast Guard. They are trained on proper operation proceedures. This piston let loose on the upstroke, whichever valve then opened when the piston was topsided to the head, is likely bent. If the rod was ""S"" shaped and running before the final break, there would have been a noticeable miss. With that piston falling even 8mm shy, it would have produced less than 20% of normal compression. Go ahead, take 8mm off the stroke and do the math. Start with normal ratio 10.3:1. A V6 running on 5 cylinders? Who wouldn't detect a miss? + +Note to Chris! I'm here to help the customer, and I'm not enjoying constantly being put in a position to defend my answers and suggestions. I'm basically supporting you on your thinking here! See post #11.","Right, the crankshaft end would seize, causing this, BUT THE BEARING IS FINE! I have seen how the Coast Guard can ""test"" equipment. It either hydrolocked, or was over revved. No one in their right mind would throw it into reverse while going full throttle, even the Coast Guard. They are trained on proper operation proceedures. This piston let loose on the upstroke, whichever valve then opened when the piston was topsided to the head, is likely bent. If the rod was ""S"" shaped and running before the final break, there would have been a noticeable miss. With that piston falling even 8mm shy, it would have produced less than 20% of normal compression. Go ahead, take 8mm off the stroke and do the math. Start with normal ratio 10.3:1. A V6 running on 5 cylinders? Who wouldn't detect a miss? + +Note to Chris! I'm here to help the customer, and I'm not enjoying constantly being put in a position to defend my answers and suggestions. I'm basically supporting you on your thinking here! See post #11.","Ayuh,.... So what outboard is on the other end of the cables,..?? + +Disconnect the cables from the motor, 'n see whether it's the outboard or the controller, or the cables themselves,...." +"Hi, + +I recently purchased a boat with a F70A 70hp. Took it out for the time yesterday and I loved not having the 2 stroke smell and being able to have a conversation at full noise. +However, as I was heading back to the ramp I noticed the motor wasn't tilting up. Going down was not a problem. So I went into some shallow water so I could manually tilt it up. +I found that when I tried to tilt it up there was an audible click. I checked the fuse and that was fine. When I trimmed it down it worked fine. I have noticed that the up trim is quite slow compared to other boats I've had. +When I got it home and gave it all a good clean I thought I'd try the trim button again. Sounded like it wanted to work again. Realised I forgot to tighten the manual screw. I then tried ti trim and it worked. Slowly but it worked again. + +Does it sound like the trim motor is on it's way out or could it be something simple as a relay? + +Thanks","Motor is failing, high amps resulting from this could have burnt the contacts in the relay too but suggest replacing motor first and try it, if intermittent you will need to replace the relay too.","Motor is failing, high amps resulting from this could have burnt the contacts in the relay too but suggest replacing motor first and try it, if intermittent you will need to replace the relay too.","It's already pretty bad since the skin is compromised and you are into the Fiberglas. You will need to grind out the gash, refill with epoxy or epoxy and Fiberglas, and re-gelcoat it. A good boatyard should match the color pretty close, or, as suggested, buy a small container of the colored gelcoat from the manufacturer. When first coated, it will not match perfectly, but time will usually fade it very close to the surrounding color." +"Hi, + +I recently purchased a boat with a F70A 70hp. Took it out for the time yesterday and I loved not having the 2 stroke smell and being able to have a conversation at full noise. +However, as I was heading back to the ramp I noticed the motor wasn't tilting up. Going down was not a problem. So I went into some shallow water so I could manually tilt it up. +I found that when I tried to tilt it up there was an audible click. I checked the fuse and that was fine. When I trimmed it down it worked fine. I have noticed that the up trim is quite slow compared to other boats I've had. +When I got it home and gave it all a good clean I thought I'd try the trim button again. Sounded like it wanted to work again. Realised I forgot to tighten the manual screw. I then tried ti trim and it worked. Slowly but it worked again. + +Does it sound like the trim motor is on it's way out or could it be something simple as a relay? + +Thanks","iang6766 said: + + + + Motor is failing, high amps resulting from this could have burnt the contacts in the relay too but suggest replacing motor first and try it, if intermittent you will need to replace the relay too. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the reply mate. I managed to suss out the issue. It was a stuffed relay.","iang6766 said: + + + + Motor is failing, high amps resulting from this could have burnt the contacts in the relay too but suggest replacing motor first and try it, if intermittent you will need to replace the relay too. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the reply mate. I managed to suss out the issue. It was a stuffed relay.","Are your engines mounted at the right height on transom in relation to keel,lowest area of hull. Wait for other replies from the prop gurus" +"I have a 2 Stroke Yamaha 30HP that is about 7-8 years old (I could confirm if that will help). It is mounted on a tinny we bought about 5 years ago but has still down very little work. Gets used for about 3 weeks each summer then it's back in the should for the year. Engine always has and does start with no trouble even after sitting for 10-11 months unused. Also runs smoothly and does not cut out. Last time I used the tinny I noticed engine was not reaching usual full throttle speed. I pulled engine cover off and checked out the throttle cable, linkages and air filter. I don't see any obstructions and it seems that full throttle position is being reached (at least by eyeballing the carby linkages and butterfly) when I open the control lever full tilt. I'm a lot more familiar with motor-cycle engines than outboards but I'm a reasonable back-yard mechanic and understand the principles of what we are dealing with here. So for you guys who are more familiar with the ins/outs of outboards does this sound like a familiar problem? Does anyone have any suggestions, other than to trailer i to a known outboard mechanic?",Is the motor stored with the carburetors empty ??,Is the motor stored with the carburetors empty ??,Thanks! +"I have a 2 Stroke Yamaha 30HP that is about 7-8 years old (I could confirm if that will help). It is mounted on a tinny we bought about 5 years ago but has still down very little work. Gets used for about 3 weeks each summer then it's back in the should for the year. Engine always has and does start with no trouble even after sitting for 10-11 months unused. Also runs smoothly and does not cut out. Last time I used the tinny I noticed engine was not reaching usual full throttle speed. I pulled engine cover off and checked out the throttle cable, linkages and air filter. I don't see any obstructions and it seems that full throttle position is being reached (at least by eyeballing the carby linkages and butterfly) when I open the control lever full tilt. I'm a lot more familiar with motor-cycle engines than outboards but I'm a reasonable back-yard mechanic and understand the principles of what we are dealing with here. So for you guys who are more familiar with the ins/outs of outboards does this sound like a familiar problem? Does anyone have any suggestions, other than to trailer i to a known outboard mechanic?","racerone said: + + + + Is the motor stored with the carburetors empty ?? + +Click to expand... + +Thanks for the response. Answer is no, last thing I do is run the motor with fresh-water hose flush, then I park it in the shed. I have never had a problem starting the engine up again, even after a long break (10 months). I do flush the fuel tank and use fresh fuel at start of each summer so it's not last years fuel - except what's left in carbie bowls. I guess you are suggesting I should run the motor dry before storing, rather than turning off ignition. Is that the suggestion? Is failing to do this likely to be the cause of a motor that runs smoothly in all other respects, but will only reach about 90% full throttle revs?","racerone said: + + + + Is the motor stored with the carburetors empty ?? + +Click to expand... + +Thanks for the response. Answer is no, last thing I do is run the motor with fresh-water hose flush, then I park it in the shed. I have never had a problem starting the engine up again, even after a long break (10 months). I do flush the fuel tank and use fresh fuel at start of each summer so it's not last years fuel - except what's left in carbie bowls. I guess you are suggesting I should run the motor dry before storing, rather than turning off ignition. Is that the suggestion? Is failing to do this likely to be the cause of a motor that runs smoothly in all other respects, but will only reach about 90% full throttle revs?","Is this an F115? If so, you could have an oil pressure problem or similar causing the engine to go into 'safe mode'. Have you checked the oil level? + +We had a similar issue on an F150. That was due to the bad balancer design shredding itself into the oil pan and blocking the oil pickup. No balancer on the F115, but low oil pressure can happen for many reasons." +"I have a 2 Stroke Yamaha 30HP that is about 7-8 years old (I could confirm if that will help). It is mounted on a tinny we bought about 5 years ago but has still down very little work. Gets used for about 3 weeks each summer then it's back in the should for the year. Engine always has and does start with no trouble even after sitting for 10-11 months unused. Also runs smoothly and does not cut out. Last time I used the tinny I noticed engine was not reaching usual full throttle speed. I pulled engine cover off and checked out the throttle cable, linkages and air filter. I don't see any obstructions and it seems that full throttle position is being reached (at least by eyeballing the carby linkages and butterfly) when I open the control lever full tilt. I'm a lot more familiar with motor-cycle engines than outboards but I'm a reasonable back-yard mechanic and understand the principles of what we are dealing with here. So for you guys who are more familiar with the ins/outs of outboards does this sound like a familiar problem? Does anyone have any suggestions, other than to trailer i to a known outboard mechanic?",I have a similar problem which I have just posted on this forum and just saw this after. Did you ever work out what your problem was ?,I have a similar problem which I have just posted on this forum and just saw this after. Did you ever work out what your problem was ?,You need to get a service manual gauges acting weird can be a sign of a bad stator or voltage regulator the manual will tell you how to check the stator. +"I have a 2 Stroke Yamaha 30HP that is about 7-8 years old (I could confirm if that will help). It is mounted on a tinny we bought about 5 years ago but has still down very little work. Gets used for about 3 weeks each summer then it's back in the should for the year. Engine always has and does start with no trouble even after sitting for 10-11 months unused. Also runs smoothly and does not cut out. Last time I used the tinny I noticed engine was not reaching usual full throttle speed. I pulled engine cover off and checked out the throttle cable, linkages and air filter. I don't see any obstructions and it seems that full throttle position is being reached (at least by eyeballing the carby linkages and butterfly) when I open the control lever full tilt. I'm a lot more familiar with motor-cycle engines than outboards but I'm a reasonable back-yard mechanic and understand the principles of what we are dealing with here. So for you guys who are more familiar with the ins/outs of outboards does this sound like a familiar problem? Does anyone have any suggestions, other than to trailer i to a known outboard mechanic?","Hi Reno62, sorry for slow response. Just saw this in my queue. I did work out my problem and am embarassed to say it was nothing to do with the motor. It was just a thin film of barnacles that were on the hull, so thin I thought would make no difference, but scraped them off and performance completely back to normal! Lesson learned!","Hi Reno62, sorry for slow response. Just saw this in my queue. I did work out my problem and am embarassed to say it was nothing to do with the motor. It was just a thin film of barnacles that were on the hull, so thin I thought would make no difference, but scraped them off and performance completely back to normal! Lesson learned!","Southpaw84 said: + + + + And I did ask the mechanic because it seemed odd and he told me it was because the motor is older and with the ethanol fuel around now the engine needs it. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, a bad check valve will cause oil to leak out of the contained oil/fuel system. + +Let's just say your mechanic's theory of the engine's age being the reason it requires more oil than Yamaha recommends, and because more oil has been added, this is the reason the engine is leaking oil. My question is, would this extra oil to fuel ratio result in oil leaking OUT of the oil/fuel system and onto the outer shell of mid section? I guess what I'm saying is you could add oil at a ratio of 10:1 and you still shouldn't see oil outside of the oil/fuel system...a dark smokey exhaust, yeah sure. + +The theory of adding extra oil to the fuel for 2 strokes is just that, a theory. But it's one I understand, and I don't believe adding a little extra oil to these older engines could hurt at all. Be that as it may, adding the extra oil shouldn't result in an oil leak. Something to think about." +"25 hp yamaha 4 stroke with no spark.. the 2 wires coming from cdi going to coil are orange, and a black/ white wire.. when I check voltage across the orange wire and ground the other test lead to the ground then I will get voltage.. If I check voltage across the orange and blk/white wire i get no voltage.. could the cdi be bad?","What happened to start the problem, storage?","What happened to start the problem, storage?","Hi I have the exact same boat +same floor problem +did you fix your floor ?? +can you give me some pointers +sorry but I have no info on boat +i I am tearing mine out this winter" +"25 hp yamaha 4 stroke with no spark.. the 2 wires coming from cdi going to coil are orange, and a black/ white wire.. when I check voltage across the orange wire and ground the other test lead to the ground then I will get voltage.. If I check voltage across the orange and blk/white wire i get no voltage.. could the cdi be bad?",Not really sure. I got the motor pretty cheap from a guy that couldn't get it running and I'm just trying to figure it out.,Not really sure. I got the motor pretty cheap from a guy that couldn't get it running and I'm just trying to figure it out.,"fritz3000g said: + + + + Thanks ClassicAQ. + +I don't have a meter, and if heating up is the source of the problem I'd have to test it hot. In the meantime, I figured there are two tests I can do after the motor starts sputtering. + +One is to bypass the fuel pump and hoist the fuel tank above the level of the motor. +The second is to hose down the fuel pump with water till it's cool (I guess the new fuel pumps are water cooled to avoid vapor lock). + +Hope to try them next time I'm in the water. Thanks again! + +Click to expand... + + +I'm confused, or you're confused, about how your fuel pump operates. As you can see in the parts blow-out, your fuel pump is not a mechanical pump, therefore it would not heat up from friction caused by moving parts. The fuel pump pushes/pulls fuel via the diaphragm due to changing pressure in the crankcase. The first test you mentioned of gravity assist is a useful diagnostic test for troubleshooting fuel pumps. The 2nd test is not." +"I have a 1989 Yamaha 130HP outboard. The tachometer is a digital multi function. Had the powerhead replaced with a remanufactured one last winter. After break in(few times out) e tachometer started acting funny. RPMs started bouncing up and down. Motor wasn't reving up and down, just the numbers on the Tach. Then it would work. The start fluctuating again. Did this a few times out, then finally quit. It is stuck on zero. Everything else works on tach. Trim and oil levels good. Oil alarm good. Just stuck on zero. Batteries are not charging. I have replaced the rectifier and did not help. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.","The zero tach reading w/prior inconsistency sounds like a bad signal wire. Check the yam color code chart. I believe signal is green. Need to do a volt drop test to determine if bad wire is with the tach harness or main harness. + +The battery issue is unrelated. If not charging then have it tested at an auto parts store. Probably needs replacing assuming its holding water in cells to appropriate levels.","The zero tach reading w/prior inconsistency sounds like a bad signal wire. Check the yam color code chart. I believe signal is green. Need to do a volt drop test to determine if bad wire is with the tach harness or main harness. + +The battery issue is unrelated. If not charging then have it tested at an auto parts store. Probably needs replacing assuming its holding water in cells to appropriate levels.","newboater67 said: + + + + Thank you boscoe. + +I thought this motor would have a CDI but someone else told me it had a TCI and an inductive ignition so I relied on their experience, but they achieve spark by different means. It's still a black box though, so all you can really do is check the ins and outs. + +So the tach signal comes from the lighting coils, thru the regulator, to the CDI, and gets modified or passed on by the CDI to the tachometer.I've traced every wire in the motor, so it has to come out of the CDI on a Pink wire in the 8-pin connector on my CDI. It's also a pink wire to the tach on my boat for some reason. + +My yamaha tach needle will swing full scale and return to the running rpm intermittently. I've already checked all the wires and connections from the motor to the gauge, so will have to scope the lighting coils, regulator output to the CDI, the CDI output, and the signal at the tach. + +Click to expand... + + +Yamaha terminology is confusing. The computer on the motor is referred to as a CDI. However, it appears to have a transistorized ignition system and not a capacitive discharge ignition system. I say this because there is no charge coil in the stator assembly. Only a lighting coil and pulser coils. + +It appears that the tachometer signal wire comes from the CDI via a blue wire that is in a four pin connector. The blue wire changes to a green wire that connects to the ten pin connector and then runs up to the helm for a connection to the tachometer. This is what the wiring diagram in the service manual shows anyway. + +A pink wire to a Yamaha multifunction tachometer is normally used for the trim sender signal. + +Yamaha does some crazy wiring stuff." +"I have problems with installing gas & throttlecables as described in the Dangar Marine Video on reversing a Yamaha 703 forward control. +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3DiUd2WI5k +(go to 7:04) These cables are now too short no matter what i try! + +Dangar Marine states this problem is caused bij the wrong locking collar. + +Any idea where i can get the right locking collar?",eddit,eddit,"Didn't notice that you said 4K, We could rule out a air leak. + You didn't say if you advance the throttle if the rpms increase normal. Also that the throttle moves smoothly forward and aft. So I have to assume that it did. I would first say that your linkage ( cable ) is out of adjustment. + When at Idle you are supplying fuel by the float system inside of the carb. Think of it as a toilet bowl and how it works. If the float goes down you get more water in your bowl. In the carb when the float goes down fuel fills the chamber and shuts off when the float come up . When you start the engine at Idle the engine sucks the fuel and lifts the valve open and fuel from the float is sucked out. When you advance the throttle to high RPM a different valve ( jet )come into play and dumps fuel along with the fuel from the float chamber. + So if your linkage is correct what would increase your RPM and not let you reduce them. You have four carbs , what's command to four of them. It's possible you have a float sinking in the bowl or a valve seat bad of one carb and letting fuel out. That would increase the RPM. But 4K , It might ?. You still should be able to reduce the throttle and than it would be running rich and run rough. I worked on large A/C engines , Car engines and all float carb's work about the same. If this is a carb problem its a good one and I would like to know. Good luck." +"I have problems with installing gas & throttlecables as described in the Dangar Marine Video on reversing a Yamaha 703 forward control. +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3DiUd2WI5k +(go to 7:04) These cables are now too short no matter what i try! + +Dangar Marine states this problem is caused bij the wrong locking collar. + +Any idea where i can get the right locking collar?","What is it that you are trying to accomplish? + +What is the complete serial number of your motor?","What is it that you are trying to accomplish? + +What is the complete serial number of your motor?","Typically, the positive power is daisy chained from gauge to gauge once it comes off the key switch. The ground may also be daisy chained, but typically not from the key switch. So the first thing to do is pull the key switch and check connections on it. If connections look good, find the wire that powers the gauges. Different manufacturers use different color coded wire for the gauges. Use a voltmeter or 12 V power probe to determine whether you have 12 V going to the gauges when the key switch is turned on. If not, then check and clean the connection going to the gauges, and re-test. If still no power then the fault is in the key switch. Some can be disassembled and cleaned, others cannot, requiring complete replacement. + +If you have power going to the gauges then you need to trace the ground wire that goes to the gauges back to its source, and test that connection." +"I have problems with installing gas & throttlecables as described in the Dangar Marine Video on reversing a Yamaha 703 forward control. +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3DiUd2WI5k +(go to 7:04) These cables are now too short no matter what i try! + +Dangar Marine states this problem is caused bij the wrong locking collar. + +Any idea where i can get the right locking collar?","I am trying to make the gas & throttlecables to fit correctly. Just like in the video of Dangar Marine. The problem is, with this locking collar which came out after 1994 while the engine is from 1993.So that, s why these cables dont fit correctly. +Serial from my engine is +40HEO +6H4 S 105337","I am trying to make the gas & throttlecables to fit correctly. Just like in the video of Dangar Marine. The problem is, with this locking collar which came out after 1994 while the engine is from 1993.So that, s why these cables dont fit correctly. +Serial from my engine is +40HEO +6H4 S 105337","Thanks Bondo, Have a rack and pinion system now. Ill probably live with it the rest of the season. If and when I change it I'll go with the same system. Listening to everybody, sounds like the play may be normal for a 1989 boat. I've been paying more attention at higher speeds and it seams like the boat isn't wandering except at low speeds. It just seems like the wheel must be turned a lot to change any direction. I guess if it gets worse I'll look at changing it. Thanks all." +"I have problems with installing gas & throttlecables as described in the Dangar Marine Video on reversing a Yamaha 703 forward control. +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3DiUd2WI5k +(go to 7:04) These cables are now too short no matter what i try! + +Dangar Marine states this problem is caused bij the wrong locking collar. + +Any idea where i can get the right locking collar?","I/we don't have time to watch a video to try and figure out what your problem is. Better that you describe it fully and completely. + +You are correct. By serial you have a 1993 model year motor. The equivalent of a USA model 40ELRR. + +If you go to the Yamaha USA website you can view the parts catalogs for the USA models. In the illustration labeled as ""Bottom Cowling"" you will see that the 1993 model used one set of part number brackets (-00-94), the 1994 model used two sets of part number brackets (-00-94 and -10-94) and the 1995 model used one set of brackets (-10-94). Seems that Yamaha made the change in the 1994 models. + +Presumption is that you have the -00-94 parts and you need the -10-94 parts. + +www.yamahaoutboards.com","I/we don't have time to watch a video to try and figure out what your problem is. Better that you describe it fully and completely. + +You are correct. By serial you have a 1993 model year motor. The equivalent of a USA model 40ELRR. + +If you go to the Yamaha USA website you can view the parts catalogs for the USA models. In the illustration labeled as ""Bottom Cowling"" you will see that the 1993 model used one set of part number brackets (-00-94), the 1994 model used two sets of part number brackets (-00-94 and -10-94) and the 1995 model used one set of brackets (-10-94). Seems that Yamaha made the change in the 1994 models. + +Presumption is that you have the -00-94 parts and you need the -10-94 parts. + +www.yamahaoutboards.com",Still can't figure it outI have done a resistance test on every thing Crank senor stator pulsar coil knock sensor tps sensor +"I have problems with installing gas & throttlecables as described in the Dangar Marine Video on reversing a Yamaha 703 forward control. +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3DiUd2WI5k +(go to 7:04) These cables are now too short no matter what i try! + +Dangar Marine states this problem is caused bij the wrong locking collar. + +Any idea where i can get the right locking collar?","wow,this is exactly the answer what i was looking for! +Many thanks!","wow,this is exactly the answer what i was looking for! +Many thanks!",I've had relays before that would click but still be bad. it may have burned up on the load side of the relay instead of the source side. that would explain the slow movement then quitting all together. as long as the source side isn't burned up and has power it will click when it tries to operate like normal but when it does there is nothing there to make contact with. hope this helps +"Warm engine cranked up right away, but repeated attempts to crank a cold engine is resulting in starter solenoid failures. I've replaced three so far. Starter engages and engine turns over trying to crank like normal at first. But after 5 or 6 attempts at starting, the solenoid freezes up and stops supplying proper voltage to the starter. The started did get a little warm on the last failure. I hoped that the problem was a ""cheap"" aftermarket solenoid, but the last one to fail was Yamaha OEM. All cables and connections and grounds have been checked. Brand new high cranking amp battery. Any ideas would be appreciated.","In my opinion the starter should be taken apart for inspection.----Likely that solenoid was NOT the problem.----Inspect the starter , do not rush out and buy a new one.","In my opinion the starter should be taken apart for inspection.----Likely that solenoid was NOT the problem.----Inspect the starter , do not rush out and buy a new one.","Hi mate, it could be a few things. Here is a video I made a while ago that might help you diagnose the problem: https://youtu.be/e1h-blqDm4U + +Stu" +"Warm engine cranked up right away, but repeated attempts to crank a cold engine is resulting in starter solenoid failures. I've replaced three so far. Starter engages and engine turns over trying to crank like normal at first. But after 5 or 6 attempts at starting, the solenoid freezes up and stops supplying proper voltage to the starter. The started did get a little warm on the last failure. I hoped that the problem was a ""cheap"" aftermarket solenoid, but the last one to fail was Yamaha OEM. All cables and connections and grounds have been checked. Brand new high cranking amp battery. Any ideas would be appreciated.","racerone said: + + + + In my opinion the starter should be taken apart for inspection.----Likely that solenoid was NOT the problem.----Inspect the starter , do not rush out and buy a new one. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the reply. What should I be looking for when inspecting the starter? I don't think the solenoid was bad either, but it definitely became fried in the cranking process. Won't even produce one volt to starter side post with ignition.","racerone said: + + + + In my opinion the starter should be taken apart for inspection.----Likely that solenoid was NOT the problem.----Inspect the starter , do not rush out and buy a new one. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the reply. What should I be looking for when inspecting the starter? I don't think the solenoid was bad either, but it definitely became fried in the cranking process. Won't even produce one volt to starter side post with ignition.",I appreciate all the help from those of you that responded to me... I ended up buying the one pictured above and it works like a charm +"Warm engine cranked up right away, but repeated attempts to crank a cold engine is resulting in starter solenoid failures. I've replaced three so far. Starter engages and engine turns over trying to crank like normal at first. But after 5 or 6 attempts at starting, the solenoid freezes up and stops supplying proper voltage to the starter. The started did get a little warm on the last failure. I hoped that the problem was a ""cheap"" aftermarket solenoid, but the last one to fail was Yamaha OEM. All cables and connections and grounds have been checked. Brand new high cranking amp battery. Any ideas would be appreciated.","After you find what's wrong with the starter, you still need to fix the hard starting problem. Firat do a spark test, then look at potential fuel issues. That motor should ""pop"" right off. When cold it is probably not getting enough fuel.","After you find what's wrong with the starter, you still need to fix the hard starting problem. Firat do a spark test, then look at potential fuel issues. That motor should ""pop"" right off. When cold it is probably not getting enough fuel.","When you do a rebuild you need to be thorough and check everything whilst doing the job. It is easy to destroy a powerhead through lean fuel mixture,incorrect spark advance etc. What you are describing indicates possible fuel starvation. Thermostats and poppet valve are also essential to control engine temp. As far as tacho is concerned, I am not certain as to whether you can use it or not, you can only try" +"Warm engine cranked up right away, but repeated attempts to crank a cold engine is resulting in starter solenoid failures. I've replaced three so far. Starter engages and engine turns over trying to crank like normal at first. But after 5 or 6 attempts at starting, the solenoid freezes up and stops supplying proper voltage to the starter. The started did get a little warm on the last failure. I hoped that the problem was a ""cheap"" aftermarket solenoid, but the last one to fail was Yamaha OEM. All cables and connections and grounds have been checked. Brand new high cranking amp battery. Any ideas would be appreciated.","timguy said: + + + + After you find what's wrong with the starter, you still need to fix the hard starting problem. Firat do a spark test, then look at potential fuel issues. That motor should ""pop"" right off. When cold it is probably not getting enough fuel. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks timguy! I'm a little ashamed to admit that I just found out today about how to use the Yamaha Prime Start System. I didn't know that I could pump a little extra fuel to the engine by pumping the remote control throttle lever a few times when cold. This engine has no choke solenoid. Found a video on Youtube. Definitely answers why I had trouble with first start when temp was in the 30's. A shame that Yamaha forgot to put that into the owners manual. And I think I've about got this traced down to a dying starter that is drawing too many amps on the repeated start attempts. Thanks for your thoughts. I think you're absolutely right about not getting enough fuel.","timguy said: + + + + After you find what's wrong with the starter, you still need to fix the hard starting problem. Firat do a spark test, then look at potential fuel issues. That motor should ""pop"" right off. When cold it is probably not getting enough fuel. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks timguy! I'm a little ashamed to admit that I just found out today about how to use the Yamaha Prime Start System. I didn't know that I could pump a little extra fuel to the engine by pumping the remote control throttle lever a few times when cold. This engine has no choke solenoid. Found a video on Youtube. Definitely answers why I had trouble with first start when temp was in the 30's. A shame that Yamaha forgot to put that into the owners manual. And I think I've about got this traced down to a dying starter that is drawing too many amps on the repeated start attempts. Thanks for your thoughts. I think you're absolutely right about not getting enough fuel.","centurycts said: + + + + Thank you for the reply Jeff. This is the boat b-4 demolition. I will get some progress pics soon....need to clean out the pieces of foam tonight. So far, I have about 15hrs into it. +..View attachment 7576View attachment 7577View attachment 7578 + +Click to expand... + +day one......... +." +"Warm engine cranked up right away, but repeated attempts to crank a cold engine is resulting in starter solenoid failures. I've replaced three so far. Starter engages and engine turns over trying to crank like normal at first. But after 5 or 6 attempts at starting, the solenoid freezes up and stops supplying proper voltage to the starter. The started did get a little warm on the last failure. I hoped that the problem was a ""cheap"" aftermarket solenoid, but the last one to fail was Yamaha OEM. All cables and connections and grounds have been checked. Brand new high cranking amp battery. Any ideas would be appreciated.",Correction to last post. It does have a choke solenoid.,Correction to last post. It does have a choke solenoid.,"bw4907 said: + + + + I have had this eng for about an year and just now. The service center I bought it from had installed a new one then. I put a little compressed air where it connects up and no air comes out of the pee hole but air comes out of the exhaust. + +Click to expand... + + +If I'm reading you correct, the ""new"" water pump has been installed for the same amount of time that you've owned the engine, one year. The service center installed the water pump, so i'll assume your engine was pissing when you bought it. + +You need to find the restriction in the tell tale (T/T): +Remove the cowling. +Find the tube to the TT exit port on bottom cowling. +Follow that tube back to the Rectifier/Regulator. Remove it from the R/R and ensure that it is free and clear. +Remove the other tube from the R/R. Verify that the R/R cooler itself is free and clear. +Follow the other tube back to the motor. Remove it from the block. Check it to verify that it is free and clear. +Inspect the block fitting. Verify that it is free and clear. +If you encounter other tubes or T fittings during the inspection process check them as well. + +While you're performing the above you can have the engines flush port hooked up to fresh water supply. Run the flush as you search for the restriction somewhere in the T/T." +"Warm engine cranked up right away, but repeated attempts to crank a cold engine is resulting in starter solenoid failures. I've replaced three so far. Starter engages and engine turns over trying to crank like normal at first. But after 5 or 6 attempts at starting, the solenoid freezes up and stops supplying proper voltage to the starter. The started did get a little warm on the last failure. I hoped that the problem was a ""cheap"" aftermarket solenoid, but the last one to fail was Yamaha OEM. All cables and connections and grounds have been checked. Brand new high cranking amp battery. Any ideas would be appreciated.","Right, your learning fast. I pump mine as it has an accelerator pump.....which gets the gas there for your initial start. Then ""cycle"" the solenoid as needed....you will get the hang of it. Your new starter will last a lifetime.","Right, your learning fast. I pump mine as it has an accelerator pump.....which gets the gas there for your initial start. Then ""cycle"" the solenoid as needed....you will get the hang of it. Your new starter will last a lifetime.","The Yams I tested are 2 stroke v-6's. + +What gauge you using? a screw in or the one you shove in the hole? +Harbor freight tools are junk. + +Your results: 1st test. 3 at 94 3 at 87 that's 6-7% difference. +That's acceptable. + +Do you use Yamaha's ring free? +Or use a decarb? +Yam oil is supposed to run best and not carbon up. + +I bought a snake camera for my Android phone. $11 +Works pretty good for checking the cylinder walls. +Best to do it under a cover or after dark." +"Warm engine cranked up right away, but repeated attempts to crank a cold engine is resulting in starter solenoid failures. I've replaced three so far. Starter engages and engine turns over trying to crank like normal at first. But after 5 or 6 attempts at starting, the solenoid freezes up and stops supplying proper voltage to the starter. The started did get a little warm on the last failure. I hoped that the problem was a ""cheap"" aftermarket solenoid, but the last one to fail was Yamaha OEM. All cables and connections and grounds have been checked. Brand new high cranking amp battery. Any ideas would be appreciated.","timguy said: + + + + Right, your learning fast. I pump mine as it has an accelerator pump.....which gets the gas there for your initial start. Then ""cycle"" the solenoid as needed....you will get the hang of it. Your new starter will last a lifetime. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks again, Timguy! I also found an incorrect connection on the carb linkage causing the choke to not engage on start. No wonder I was having trouble with a cold start! Old starter also had a little bend in the armature. Not sure it was enough to cause a problem, but hey, I found a new starter for $65 on Amazon. And starter solenoids for about $6. Bought some extras just for insurance. + +I really appreciate all the help from everyone on this forum. Maybe one day I can return the favor to someone.","timguy said: + + + + Right, your learning fast. I pump mine as it has an accelerator pump.....which gets the gas there for your initial start. Then ""cycle"" the solenoid as needed....you will get the hang of it. Your new starter will last a lifetime. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks again, Timguy! I also found an incorrect connection on the carb linkage causing the choke to not engage on start. No wonder I was having trouble with a cold start! Old starter also had a little bend in the armature. Not sure it was enough to cause a problem, but hey, I found a new starter for $65 on Amazon. And starter solenoids for about $6. Bought some extras just for insurance. + +I really appreciate all the help from everyone on this forum. Maybe one day I can return the favor to someone.",??----The methyl hydrate would absorb the water.----Then you still have to get the methyl hydrate and the water out. +"Warm engine cranked up right away, but repeated attempts to crank a cold engine is resulting in starter solenoid failures. I've replaced three so far. Starter engages and engine turns over trying to crank like normal at first. But after 5 or 6 attempts at starting, the solenoid freezes up and stops supplying proper voltage to the starter. The started did get a little warm on the last failure. I hoped that the problem was a ""cheap"" aftermarket solenoid, but the last one to fail was Yamaha OEM. All cables and connections and grounds have been checked. Brand new high cranking amp battery. Any ideas would be appreciated.","Excellent and take care, stay humble. Remember, you can accomplish almost anything, as long as you don't care who gets the credit. I'm learning constantly here on the forum too.","Excellent and take care, stay humble. Remember, you can accomplish almost anything, as long as you don't care who gets the credit. I'm learning constantly here on the forum too.","three options: 1) make sure all the electrical connections are sound, try resetting the configuration switch on the back....take a screwdriver and rotate it thru all positions a few times before putting it back on ""8"", and finally, replace or repair the tach- this will be driven by who made it and its age." +"I have owned this engine for 3 years and it runs fine other than this. At full throttle 5600rpm after about 10 minutes the overheat sensor comes on. If you run 5300 rpm, no issues. After some investigation I found someone had removed the thermostats. I installed a new set of OEM stats and the overheat sensor now comes on in 2 minutes at 3000 rpm , removed stats and back to original problem. Now I verified the pressure control valve is in good shape which it is. Next replaced impeller and found the wear plate previously installed has a much larger feed area than the kit I have. I installed the new kit with the smaller feed hole no thermostats and the problem is still there as listed above. I can see at some time the heads have been removed as well. Its a fresh water engine and I don,t see any corrosion or obstructions up the feed tube when the gear case is removed. Any ideas?","Sounds like a high temp issue is the root cause, but don't allow the stats to throw you off. Whether stats are incorporated into the cooling system or not, the only way installed stats can exacerbate an already hot motor is by not opening at their predetermined temp. Your engine is running hot with and without stats, so excluded stats as being a cause. + +Using a water pump kit out of model spec shud absolutely be considered as the cause, or at least considered to be contributing to the cause. And just because an engine is freshwater run does not imply it's excluded from corrosion. It's a 20 yr old engine. Bound to corrosion built up in the water passages if never addressed in the past.","Sounds like a high temp issue is the root cause, but don't allow the stats to throw you off. Whether stats are incorporated into the cooling system or not, the only way installed stats can exacerbate an already hot motor is by not opening at their predetermined temp. Your engine is running hot with and without stats, so excluded stats as being a cause. + +Using a water pump kit out of model spec shud absolutely be considered as the cause, or at least considered to be contributing to the cause. And just because an engine is freshwater run does not imply it's excluded from corrosion. It's a 20 yr old engine. Bound to corrosion built up in the water passages if never addressed in the past.","This is about as easy and slick as you can do it. +https://www.arkansashunting.net/threads/yamaha-tiller-trim-switch-instructions.189761/" +"I have owned this engine for 3 years and it runs fine other than this. At full throttle 5600rpm after about 10 minutes the overheat sensor comes on. If you run 5300 rpm, no issues. After some investigation I found someone had removed the thermostats. I installed a new set of OEM stats and the overheat sensor now comes on in 2 minutes at 3000 rpm , removed stats and back to original problem. Now I verified the pressure control valve is in good shape which it is. Next replaced impeller and found the wear plate previously installed has a much larger feed area than the kit I have. I installed the new kit with the smaller feed hole no thermostats and the problem is still there as listed above. I can see at some time the heads have been removed as well. Its a fresh water engine and I don,t see any corrosion or obstructions up the feed tube when the gear case is removed. Any ideas?","This will be my 1000th post, hope I can help. +Maybe the temp sensor is off parameters. Did you check the actual temp with an infrared digital thermometer? Secondly, could there be a partial obstruction leading INTO the pump?","This will be my 1000th post, hope I can help. +Maybe the temp sensor is off parameters. Did you check the actual temp with an infrared digital thermometer? Secondly, could there be a partial obstruction leading INTO the pump?","No, have follow Yamaha:s in my enginepark 5, 15, 20 and 30hp (30hp Autolube) twostroke and 70hp (forstroke) +The smaler hp engine not nearby in smoke when I start +The smoke problem start one or two years ago. + + +The neighbor asked if there was a fire in the boat when I start the Yamaha. + +Is it possible that the oil pump can deliver too much oil? +The oil pump is mechanical and driven by the crankshaft, can sealing oil pump be broken so that compression from the crankcase? + +/Matts" +"Hello, + I have dual Yam 150s. Port side is counter rotating. When I had the engine covers off the other day I noticed there is a 3-pin electrical jumper on the right front side of the engines. What disturbs me is that the port engine has a plug inserted in this jumper and the starboard engine doesn't. I finally found the plug for the starboard engine resting in the bottom of the engine cowling. Both engines seem to be running fine. I have the jumper circled in the pic. I appreciate any help/advice. Rich","What advice are you seeking? + +No reason to be disturbed. + +Why not simply install the cap that was inadvertently not reinstalled? + +I forgot to close my gas cap door one time on my truck. Someone pointed it out. I closed the door.","What advice are you seeking? + +No reason to be disturbed. + +Why not simply install the cap that was inadvertently not reinstalled? + +I forgot to close my gas cap door one time on my truck. Someone pointed it out. I closed the door.","Old Clem said: + + + + Maybe adjust the cable/idle up a little. It may have stretched a tad and you need to take up the slack. However I'm not an expert but that's my 2 bobs worth. Clem. + +Click to expand... + + + +Already readjusted the throttle cable,made no difference." +"Hello, + I have dual Yam 150s. Port side is counter rotating. When I had the engine covers off the other day I noticed there is a 3-pin electrical jumper on the right front side of the engines. What disturbs me is that the port engine has a plug inserted in this jumper and the starboard engine doesn't. I finally found the plug for the starboard engine resting in the bottom of the engine cowling. Both engines seem to be running fine. I have the jumper circled in the pic. I appreciate any help/advice. Rich","Well, I was wondering what the plug is used for, and if there's a reason only one is installed. I prefer to not plug in electrical jumpers if I don't know what they do. Since both engines seem to be running fine I'll just leave the starboard jumper off until someone who actually knows what it's for can answer my question. And to assume that installing an electrical jumper is in the same league as closing a gas cap is pretty naive...but thanks for your time.","Well, I was wondering what the plug is used for, and if there's a reason only one is installed. I prefer to not plug in electrical jumpers if I don't know what they do. Since both engines seem to be running fine I'll just leave the starboard jumper off until someone who actually knows what it's for can answer my question. And to assume that installing an electrical jumper is in the same league as closing a gas cap is pretty naive...but thanks for your time.","I'd say no as flat is one compound and gloss another and you don't know how the two will mix. May have a dull, flat gloss,or streaking would be my guess. How about going to another store. Have you tried Interlux marine finishes? + +Mark" +"Hello, + I have dual Yam 150s. Port side is counter rotating. When I had the engine covers off the other day I noticed there is a 3-pin electrical jumper on the right front side of the engines. What disturbs me is that the port engine has a plug inserted in this jumper and the starboard engine doesn't. I finally found the plug for the starboard engine resting in the bottom of the engine cowling. Both engines seem to be running fine. I have the jumper circled in the pic. I appreciate any help/advice. Rich","The jumper plug is there for a reason. It came from the factory with a nylon lanyard to prevent it from being lost. Many forget to reattach the jumper cap. The motor may run just fine without be installed. But it is supposed to be installed. + +Attach it or not. Your call.","The jumper plug is there for a reason. It came from the factory with a nylon lanyard to prevent it from being lost. Many forget to reattach the jumper cap. The motor may run just fine without be installed. But it is supposed to be installed. + +Attach it or not. Your call.","Dstecea said: + + + + Yes, nothing is blocking the ports coming from the pick ups to the water pump + +Click to expand... + + +Is something blocking the outflow?" +"Hello, + I have dual Yam 150s. Port side is counter rotating. When I had the engine covers off the other day I noticed there is a 3-pin electrical jumper on the right front side of the engines. What disturbs me is that the port engine has a plug inserted in this jumper and the starboard engine doesn't. I finally found the plug for the starboard engine resting in the bottom of the engine cowling. Both engines seem to be running fine. I have the jumper circled in the pic. I appreciate any help/advice. Rich","I do realize the plug is there for a reason, I'm just trying to find out what that reason is. In my experience manufacturers put a plug in place because in some instances the plug won't be used. If the electrical connections were supposed to always be in contact then why have a removable plug. It would make more sense to have continuous wiring to lessen the chance of corrosion, or in my case, the plug falling out.","I do realize the plug is there for a reason, I'm just trying to find out what that reason is. In my experience manufacturers put a plug in place because in some instances the plug won't be used. If the electrical connections were supposed to always be in contact then why have a removable plug. It would make more sense to have continuous wiring to lessen the chance of corrosion, or in my case, the plug falling out.",Are you using the correct spark plugs? Gas?oil? Is your cooling system working proporly?Have you checked spark?Compression?What have YOU done? +"Hello, + I have dual Yam 150s. Port side is counter rotating. When I had the engine covers off the other day I noticed there is a 3-pin electrical jumper on the right front side of the engines. What disturbs me is that the port engine has a plug inserted in this jumper and the starboard engine doesn't. I finally found the plug for the starboard engine resting in the bottom of the engine cowling. Both engines seem to be running fine. I have the jumper circled in the pic. I appreciate any help/advice. Rich",The cap covers the diagnostic port. To which an interface cable is attached so that engine data can be seen on a PC running Yamaha software.. The cap protects the pins within the port when the port is not being used. The cap includes a jumper wire to connect two of the pins together when the port is not being used.,The cap covers the diagnostic port. To which an interface cable is attached so that engine data can be seen on a PC running Yamaha software.. The cap protects the pins within the port when the port is not being used. The cap includes a jumper wire to connect two of the pins together when the port is not being used.,"Ayuh,...... Try a custom sign shop,....." +"Hello, + I have dual Yam 150s. Port side is counter rotating. When I had the engine covers off the other day I noticed there is a 3-pin electrical jumper on the right front side of the engines. What disturbs me is that the port engine has a plug inserted in this jumper and the starboard engine doesn't. I finally found the plug for the starboard engine resting in the bottom of the engine cowling. Both engines seem to be running fine. I have the jumper circled in the pic. I appreciate any help/advice. Rich","Thank you very much. I appreciate you taking the time to explain it to me, and I apologize for getting a little short with you in my previous emails.","Thank you very much. I appreciate you taking the time to explain it to me, and I apologize for getting a little short with you in my previous emails.","its a mericruser 3.7.....4 cyl....the outdrive......um no idea....i dont have a manual for the boat and i dont know were to find this information at. the boat is about a hour away from my house so running and getting it is not very simple.....the boat is a 1985 cobia 195 vbr.....the motor runs....the prop spins....that about all i know....this is my second boat, my first boat i purchased was a bayliner cierra....block was busted, floor and beams were rotted, interior was great though....i paid 5 grand for it and gave it away 3 weeks later, i was taken advange of...so on this boat, i checked the engine, i checked the floor, i checked to make sure the out drive worked....so now its what do i have...lol...." +anyone know the location of anodes in the powerhead of 2002 ox66 150 txrz? my manual said I may or may not have them. thanks,"The only engine anodes I am aware of sit in the block under the cylinder heads, I have yet to see these totally depleted when rebuilding these motors. Type in yamaha part number 6E5-11325-00-00 in the search bar on boats.net and then selext your engine and you will see where they are located.","The only engine anodes I am aware of sit in the block under the cylinder heads, I have yet to see these totally depleted when rebuilding these motors. Type in yamaha part number 6E5-11325-00-00 in the search bar on boats.net and then selext your engine and you will see where they are located.",Thanks! Is that relatively easy to replace or would it be best to have a dealer do it? Cost?? +"!5 hp yamaha leaks oil when running from a small hole just above the upper exhaust outlet, any clues, it is leaking about 1/4 later every 3 hours. The power head base gasket is good. I have no idea what that little hole is for.","Isn't that motor a pre-mix fuel/oil model? If so, how could oil be leaking when there isn't oil contained in the engine compartment, as in oil injection models. If it is oil injection, check for leaks and oil pump function.","Isn't that motor a pre-mix fuel/oil model? If so, how could oil be leaking when there isn't oil contained in the engine compartment, as in oil injection models. If it is oil injection, check for leaks and oil pump function.","Hunterdan777 said: + + + + There is a schematic that comes with that piece in the picture. But in general is one better than the other + +Click to expand... + + +I prefer the ACR as it has no additional voltage drop and the associated heat generation. The isolator's I've seen are typically high amperage diodes with heat sinks....Apollo technology...." +"!5 hp yamaha leaks oil when running from a small hole just above the upper exhaust outlet, any clues, it is leaking about 1/4 later every 3 hours. The power head base gasket is good. I have no idea what that little hole is for.","I should have said it is a 4 stroke, also the oil leak is a 1/4 litre every 3 hours not a 1/4 later. If the leak is originating in the oil pan area is it possible to get to it without removing the power head from the base gasket ? I just replaced that and would like to avoid doing it again.","I should have said it is a 4 stroke, also the oil leak is a 1/4 litre every 3 hours not a 1/4 later. If the leak is originating in the oil pan area is it possible to get to it without removing the power head from the base gasket ? I just replaced that and would like to avoid doing it again.","Thx to everyone for your replies, It is a 1998 196 FishnFun and from what I see on the Godfrey website is pretty much the same as the new ones except for the modernized seats, controls, etc. It is all fiberglass and in looking at it I am not an expert but I don't think it is a double hull. It takes on water because the transom sits too low and water eventually enters the steering cable and engine control openings. I know I can seal those but I am trying to see what I can do about raising the stern. I will look to see about moving weight to the bow. It sits low in the water at the stern as soon as I put it into the water. Engine is original." +"!5 hp yamaha leaks oil when running from a small hole just above the upper exhaust outlet, any clues, it is leaking about 1/4 later every 3 hours. The power head base gasket is good. I have no idea what that little hole is for.","tateman said: + + + + I should have said it is a 4 stroke, also the oil leak is a 1/4 litre every 3 hours not a 1/4 later. If the leak is originating in the oil pan area is it possible to get to it without removing the power head from the base gasket ? I just replaced that and would like to avoid doing it again. + +Click to expand... + + +Its not originating in oil pan area, that's just where the oil is accumulating...then dripping out of where you see it. Find the source of leak...start with reservior then trace to where oil hose feeds.","tateman said: + + + + I should have said it is a 4 stroke, also the oil leak is a 1/4 litre every 3 hours not a 1/4 later. If the leak is originating in the oil pan area is it possible to get to it without removing the power head from the base gasket ? I just replaced that and would like to avoid doing it again. + +Click to expand... + + +Its not originating in oil pan area, that's just where the oil is accumulating...then dripping out of where you see it. Find the source of leak...start with reservior then trace to where oil hose feeds.",Try a different battery.. out of your car etc just to rule it out. sometimes they test ok even though there is a issue with load. +"I removed the carb assembly for cleaning yesterday (yup, it was running really poorly), and noticed something VERY strange about the bottom carb! + +It doesn't appear to have a fuel line (the port isn't even tapped!), nor does it have the same port inside the carb manifold (?) that the other two have. + +Does this mean that my motor is really only using 2 of the 3 carbs? + +Has anyone ever come across this before, or is mine a fluke? + +I think the motor is ~2003 vintage, with exceptionally low hours. Bought it second hand in ~2007. + +Thanks! + +See attached photos...",I think you need to look closely for another way for fuel to get to the top carburetor !------Or do this test fill carburetors with fuel using the primer bulb.-----Then check for fuel in all 3 bowls.----Post more pictures of carburetors on all sides.-------There is no way that it left the factory running on 2 carburetors !,I think you need to look closely for another way for fuel to get to the top carburetor !------Or do this test fill carburetors with fuel using the primer bulb.-----Then check for fuel in all 3 bowls.----Post more pictures of carburetors on all sides.-------There is no way that it left the factory running on 2 carburetors !,"Tensioner pulley on timing belt? + +Stuart" +"I removed the carb assembly for cleaning yesterday (yup, it was running really poorly), and noticed something VERY strange about the bottom carb! + +It doesn't appear to have a fuel line (the port isn't even tapped!), nor does it have the same port inside the carb manifold (?) that the other two have. + +Does this mean that my motor is really only using 2 of the 3 carbs? + +Has anyone ever come across this before, or is mine a fluke? + +I think the motor is ~2003 vintage, with exceptionally low hours. Bought it second hand in ~2007. + +Thanks! + +See attached photos...",Are you sure that the 2 fittings ( first picture ) on the bottom and middle carburetors are in fact fuel supply hoses ??,Are you sure that the 2 fittings ( first picture ) on the bottom and middle carburetors are in fact fuel supply hoses ??,You must not shift that motor from neutral to reverse without the propshaft turning or the motor running ! +"I removed the carb assembly for cleaning yesterday (yup, it was running really poorly), and noticed something VERY strange about the bottom carb! + +It doesn't appear to have a fuel line (the port isn't even tapped!), nor does it have the same port inside the carb manifold (?) that the other two have. + +Does this mean that my motor is really only using 2 of the 3 carbs? + +Has anyone ever come across this before, or is mine a fluke? + +I think the motor is ~2003 vintage, with exceptionally low hours. Bought it second hand in ~2007. + +Thanks! + +See attached photos...","Bottom pic near the top arrow....thats the fuel line, which is easy to distinguish from other hoses from its thicker rubber wall diameter. After reinstalling, clamp of the 2 fuel hoses you know to be fuel then run engine. If fuel isn't being delivered to that 1 carb then engine won't stay running or run at all. Or pull off the 2 plug caps from known fuel delivered cylinders, run engine off that 1 cylinder. If the carb is getting fuel it'll run.","Bottom pic near the top arrow....thats the fuel line, which is easy to distinguish from other hoses from its thicker rubber wall diameter. After reinstalling, clamp of the 2 fuel hoses you know to be fuel then run engine. If fuel isn't being delivered to that 1 carb then engine won't stay running or run at all. Or pull off the 2 plug caps from known fuel delivered cylinders, run engine off that 1 cylinder. If the carb is getting fuel it'll run.","Only time I have seen this happen is when the batteries were hooked up backwards and damage to the trim harness resulted. I would be inspecting the trim harness. + +The trim motor is not the issue." +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +check for loose connections on the motor. only thing I can think of. What made you think to tilt the motor all the way up, the first time?","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +check for loose connections on the motor. only thing I can think of. What made you think to tilt the motor all the way up, the first time?","Thanks Chawk, yr update seems to make sense based on yr notes and addl reading. To review (my understanding): + +Switch on both, power from both batteries powering starter and all accesories. + +Switch on (1), accesorry power being drawn from battery (1), battery (2) is isolated, but engine will still start because battey 1 goes to common, which is where starter will draw from anyway. + +Switch on (2), accesorry power being drawn from battery (2), battery (1) is isolated, but engine will still start because battey 2 goes to common, which is where starter will draw from anyway. + +And for simple starting and underway, start as I always have on both, and engine will charge both. + +Do you agree? And if so, what would be the simplest way at the dock to confirm this set up. + +Thanks again." +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +The reason that I tilted the motor up the first time was to check the prop and lower unit were ok. I think that it must be some sensor. I will double check all of the connections.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +The reason that I tilted the motor up the first time was to check the prop and lower unit were ok. I think that it must be some sensor. I will double check all of the connections.","aliboy said: + + + + Have you checked the fuel pump? + +Click to expand... + + +Good idea. I cleaning carbs now and soaking jets in carb clean. + +Will report back, Thanks aliboy" +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +Check your wiring harness where it meets the motor cowling -it moves when you tilt up the motor.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +Check your wiring harness where it meets the motor cowling -it moves when you tilt up the motor.","I ran my engine after removing the balance shafts. The ""whine"" was gone but I had a noticeable vibration I could feel not only on the engine but the boat itself. This occurred from idle speed up to about 1200 RPM. Seemed to get smoother beyond that. I guess the amount of vibration without the balancer may vary from one engine to another. I think the vibration on mine is more than I would be willing to tolerate, so my plan is to replace the balancer assy. Apparently the latest version (63P-11500-04-00) have an additional oil nozzle to better lubricate the gears. Thanks for your response!" +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +How many sensors does this motor have that are related to oil? I check the oil before taking it out.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +How many sensors does this motor have that are related to oil? I check the oil before taking it out.",i have had excellent results with west marine over the years...if you can take a part in then if they dont have it they will order it...knowledgeable people and a no questions asked return policy...the local store has 4-5 different fuel sender units and meters in stock...i have no skin in their game..just good service from them...most freshwater fishermen dont even know they are in town..all their advertising is pointed toward large boats... +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +I'm from italy, +I have a Robalo 235 with 225 4 strore 2004 ed I have the same problem and I find on may self the same solution.... I turn it of the motor one, two or more time and after go ok. +Yamaha mechanic said that it is in my case a water problem in petrol which has caused problems of rust fuel pump that caused a blockage of the injectors accordingly ... we are replacing the pump. We inform you about please tell me whether you have found the cause of the problem. +Thanks","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +I'm from italy, +I have a Robalo 235 with 225 4 strore 2004 ed I have the same problem and I find on may self the same solution.... I turn it of the motor one, two or more time and after go ok. +Yamaha mechanic said that it is in my case a water problem in petrol which has caused problems of rust fuel pump that caused a blockage of the injectors accordingly ... we are replacing the pump. We inform you about please tell me whether you have found the cause of the problem. +Thanks","If you find your carb to be the issue. + +After many years of servicing smaller 4stroke outboards for a local Yacht club, when the carbs are an issue I replace them with new ones. + +The best $425.00 you will spend. + +The success rate for cleaning them is low because of the extremely small passages....Just like Racerone suggested." +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +I have had the same issue and motors. It's some work but this resolved my issue. Inside the high pressure tank build up even a small amount of particles and this will inhibit the flow. The debris in mine came for a small screw inside the tank which was rusting due to the manufacture using dissimilar metals in production. Saving the .04 per engine. Clean the HP tank and replace the screw with stainless.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +I have had the same issue and motors. It's some work but this resolved my issue. Inside the high pressure tank build up even a small amount of particles and this will inhibit the flow. The debris in mine came for a small screw inside the tank which was rusting due to the manufacture using dissimilar metals in production. Saving the .04 per engine. Clean the HP tank and replace the screw with stainless.","I'm not sure i would add a regulator for 16V, but it is higher than the normal 14-14.5 charging voltage of larger systems + +Your electronics should specific an allowable voltage range, for example, my Lowrance GPS/Fishfinder allows 10-17 VDC. If you are outside of what your equipment is rated for, I would consider the regulator. + +Terry" +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +I cleaned out the high pressure tank. I think that it is called the ""VST"" int he parts list for the motor. We went down to the keys for Lobster mini season and spent weekend there. The boat ran great until Saturday. The issue occurred twice on Saturday and once on Sunday. I have run this issue by many people and have now been pointed in the direction of the trim sender. Apparently if the computer senses the the trim is to high it will put the motor into slow mode which will not let you pass 4300 rpm. I am going to test this theory this weekend.","Re: Yamaha 225 Four Stroke cut at 4300 rpm + +I cleaned out the high pressure tank. I think that it is called the ""VST"" int he parts list for the motor. We went down to the keys for Lobster mini season and spent weekend there. The boat ran great until Saturday. The issue occurred twice on Saturday and once on Sunday. I have run this issue by many people and have now been pointed in the direction of the trim sender. Apparently if the computer senses the the trim is to high it will put the motor into slow mode which will not let you pass 4300 rpm. I am going to test this theory this weekend.","I am wondering if I should just buy a new water separator unit. They are about 60 dollars. Do they go bad? I am not sure what inside of them can go bad . + +to edit above post. It stalls under a load." +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.",Trim sender was replaced and still the same issue is occuring. This is an intermitent issue so trouble shooting is very hard. Can anyone shed some light on this?,Trim sender was replaced and still the same issue is occuring. This is an intermitent issue so trouble shooting is very hard. Can anyone shed some light on this?,That's A LOT of jumps - good for ya. At Campbell I was with C/1/506th PIR. Spent two tours in the land of the little green snakes - first tour MACV with an ARVN strike battalion. Second tour with 1st Cav. Went in in June 1966. Got out in September 1977. +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.",I have been also looking reading around and see that some people have had issues with the fuel lines comming from the tank and low pressure fuel pump. How long on average should you go without replacing all of the fuel lines. We have had this boat since 2005 and have never replaced the fuel lines. Should this be something that should be looked into relating to this issue?,I have been also looking reading around and see that some people have had issues with the fuel lines comming from the tank and low pressure fuel pump. How long on average should you go without replacing all of the fuel lines. We have had this boat since 2005 and have never replaced the fuel lines. Should this be something that should be looked into relating to this issue?,"This is a common problem with a motor running to high as the blades ""slap"" the water and crack. Also bad casting will do this. The over hub props are really bad about this, as I went thru 3 Triton props $600 ea before I got a good one. I now have any HP prop x-rayed" +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","Get a fuel pressure gauge that attaches to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. I've got 2 F115s and one F150 and with all the ethanol related VST filter plugging I think everyone should have one. With the pressure gauge hooked up you'll be able to see if it's a fuel pressure drop that is causing the problem at higher rpms. If pressure is fine (about 40psi) you could have an injector plugging up and they are fairly easy to remove and have cleaned. If the motor is running fine up to the higher rpms it usually is a fuel restriction somewhere. + +In talking to a number of Yamaha mechanics they all say there are many more fuel related problems than electrical problems on the Yamaha 4 strokes.","Get a fuel pressure gauge that attaches to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. I've got 2 F115s and one F150 and with all the ethanol related VST filter plugging I think everyone should have one. With the pressure gauge hooked up you'll be able to see if it's a fuel pressure drop that is causing the problem at higher rpms. If pressure is fine (about 40psi) you could have an injector plugging up and they are fairly easy to remove and have cleaned. If the motor is running fine up to the higher rpms it usually is a fuel restriction somewhere. + +In talking to a number of Yamaha mechanics they all say there are many more fuel related problems than electrical problems on the Yamaha 4 strokes.","Ayuh,... There aren't that many choices,.... + +If they changed in '98, I'm guessin' the Pre-98 fittin' oughta work,...." +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.",I replaced both thermostats. One was completely open and the other just a bit. We ran with a fuel pressure guage unitl the issue occurred. The pressure was normal 45 PSI even when the motor was cutting out.,I replaced both thermostats. One was completely open and the other just a bit. We ran with a fuel pressure guage unitl the issue occurred. The pressure was normal 45 PSI even when the motor was cutting out.,"Keep in mind that the output of current from your rectifier is very small. More than likely less than five amps at wide open throttle. It sounds as if the system is working. + +From what you are describing I would suspect the problem is related to the battery or the wiring. Even if you had no electrical output at all from the motor a good battery and good wiring should be able to provide enough current to operate a fish finder, a VHF radio and some lights for a period of time without dropping its voltage to the point that the fish finder turns itself off due to low voltage. One test of a battery is a load test. An electrical load of XYZ amps is applied while the voltage of the battery is observed. The voltage is not to drop below 10.5 volts. + +You can take the battery to an auto parts store and get it load tested for free. You yourself can inspect all of the electrical connections to make sure they are clean and tight." +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","As your fuel pressure is good I'd pull the injectors and have them cleaned..........if the problem persists then you know it isn't a fuel restriction problem. You can have the injectors cleaned for about 20 bucks apiece. The mechanics I've talked to always say that 99% of problems now a days are fuel related............but you may have an electrical gremlin which I unfortunately can't help with. + +Good luck","As your fuel pressure is good I'd pull the injectors and have them cleaned..........if the problem persists then you know it isn't a fuel restriction problem. You can have the injectors cleaned for about 20 bucks apiece. The mechanics I've talked to always say that 99% of problems now a days are fuel related............but you may have an electrical gremlin which I unfortunately can't help with. + +Good luck","Need all the numbers letters characters that you have. + +What country are you in?" +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","One other thing you could do yourself is check the resistance on all your injectors to make sure they are all good. If you pull the injector harnesses off and use an ohm meter on the two injector blades you should get a reading in the 12-16 range.........but it's important that they are all the same (plus minus a few tenths). I have two f115s and a f150 and the injectors would all read in the 15ish range. It's possible that you have a bad injector that is heating up and shorting out. Nice thing about this is it's pretty simple to do yourself. + +Good Luck","One other thing you could do yourself is check the resistance on all your injectors to make sure they are all good. If you pull the injector harnesses off and use an ohm meter on the two injector blades you should get a reading in the 12-16 range.........but it's important that they are all the same (plus minus a few tenths). I have two f115s and a f150 and the injectors would all read in the 15ish range. It's possible that you have a bad injector that is heating up and shorting out. Nice thing about this is it's pretty simple to do yourself. + +Good Luck","Now that I've got both engines on my brother's boat running good, I decided that my brother has ignored some other preventative maintenance that needs to be done. I greased the fittings on the 115 and found that the steering pivot was completely dry. It took a lot of pumping on the grease gun to finally show some grease at the ends. I also decided to replace the 90W on the lower unit. It was low---when I pulled the top plug, I reached down with a piece of wire and it came back out dry. In the owner's manual, it says that it should hold about 25.7 fluid oz. I pumped over 30 ounces in the bottom plug before any came out of the top plug. It does say to pump it full with the motor vertical, which is what I did. Is this normal?" +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","I have been able to remidy the issue by turning off the motor followed by turning off the batteries for 1 minute. Then I am able to resume normal operation without any issue. This issue occurs after the running the batteries with the motor shut off for an exteneded period of time..... i.e. anchored for a couple of hours and starting back up to come home, this is when I run into the issue. Can it be a computer related?","I have been able to remidy the issue by turning off the motor followed by turning off the batteries for 1 minute. Then I am able to resume normal operation without any issue. This issue occurs after the running the batteries with the motor shut off for an exteneded period of time..... i.e. anchored for a couple of hours and starting back up to come home, this is when I run into the issue. Can it be a computer related?",Park it and call your insurance person. +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.",I have replaced the ECU and have not had the issue since.,I have replaced the ECU and have not had the issue since.,If you can get a hand help propane torch or a cylinder of MAPP for the propane tip you can generate enough heat..... How long are the bolts through the manifold? You might have to grind off the heads to get back near the threads after you slide the manifold off. +"I have a 2002 Pursuit 2270cc with a 2001 Yamaha 225 Four Stroke. The issue that I am experiencing is intermittent. At times the motor will not go past 4300 rpm, it is as if the computer was keeping the motor from going any higher. The way that I have found to get the motor working as it should is to turn it off then lift the motor out of the water with the trim and bring it back down and turn it back on. It works the first time or sometimes I even have to go through the procedure a couple of times and it will finally go back to normal operation. We have taken it to the Yamaha dealer and spent a lot of cash trying to resolve this issue and no one can figure it out since it cannot be replicated.","I have a 2002 Yamaha 225hp and it just started cutting out at 4300 rpm. My mechanic has already replaced the removed, cleaned, and replaced the injectors with no success. Has the problem returned to your engine since you replaced the ECU?","I have a 2002 Yamaha 225hp and it just started cutting out at 4300 rpm. My mechanic has already replaced the removed, cleaned, and replaced the injectors with no success. Has the problem returned to your engine since you replaced the ECU?","First, Look right above the lower unit at the shift rod. I know Yamaha improved the rod for rot, But I always check it. If it looks like two pencil points touching, there is your problem. + +Second, if the shift rod looks fine, Look under the intake of the power head and make sure the shift rod pivot is not broken. + +Third, disconnect the cable at the engine and see if the shift slide moves freely. + +Fourth, If everything above is good, pull the lower unit off and make sure the splined coupler that is welded to the shift shaft has not broken loose." +"I just noticed a hole in my Yamaha 100 Fourstroke circa 2003 motor but only owned for a few years. It is on the front of the leg but juat abovetrhe lower unit. Can see the driveshaft through it. About the size if a large coin...or an inch and a half maybe. Round but a little corroded on the edges. +Engine well serviced and running great. +Strong tell tale. +Water coming out of this hole when flushing as well as the normal places. +Is it meant to be there? +If so is it exhaust? drainhole? +Thanks for any help! +Paul",Negative. Looks like the useless mid-shaft bushing locked up. Pull the lower and remove the rest of it.,Negative. Looks like the useless mid-shaft bushing locked up. Pull the lower and remove the rest of it., +"I just noticed a hole in my Yamaha 100 Fourstroke circa 2003 motor but only owned for a few years. It is on the front of the leg but juat abovetrhe lower unit. Can see the driveshaft through it. About the size if a large coin...or an inch and a half maybe. Round but a little corroded on the edges. +Engine well serviced and running great. +Strong tell tale. +Water coming out of this hole when flushing as well as the normal places. +Is it meant to be there? +If so is it exhaust? drainhole? +Thanks for any help! +Paul",Local view is that have burnt a hole in the exhaust and that is the cause. Booked in to get it properly looked at.,Local view is that have burnt a hole in the exhaust and that is the cause. Booked in to get it properly looked at.,Since you purchased engine new the dealer should have included the owners manual. In this manual lists the recommended battery. +"I have a Yamaha outboard that runs fine at idle but once you shift into gear it has no power at all. Here is what is known. + +1. The motor started life out as a 1997 Vmax 150. It somehow blew a hole in the #6 cylinder. Still not sure of cause. Motor was then given to my brother who put it on the boat. + +2. A used powerhead was bought.--- this is an area that is grey to me. My brother was told that this used power head was the same block as the vmax. Upon me getting this boat to work on it I found out the two powerhead look the same but they had different carbs and different flywheel. + +3. Used powerhead installed with the proper base gasket. + +4. All components from the blown motor were swapped over to the used power head..ex.. carbs, heads, intake manifolds, all electronics, everything that could be swapped was. All new gaskets were used. + +5. Carbs from blown engine rebuilt with kits. Each soaked in berryman carb cleaner bucket for 15-20min, flushed with water, ran 2 cycles in dishwasher, back for another 15-20 min soak in berryman, flushed with spray brake cleaner, all passages cleared with compressed air then alcohol flushed followed by final flush and spray of aerosol carb cleaner. All passages seemed to flow as needed. All jets, and other internal parts were done the same. Float height checked and all resembled per the manual. + +6. 2 new fuel pumps installed + +7. New fuel lines installed from boat to fuel pumps. + +8. Fuel lines checked for tightness from fuel pumps to carbs. These lines seemed ok. They do not leak fuel anywhere. + +9. Carbs linked and synced and all open together in unison. + +10. The used powerhead did not have a pulser coil that could be advanced, the blown engine did so we swapped the blown engine pulser coil so it would work with the control arm and time with carbs. We used the used powerhead flywheel as the inside magnets looked the same as the blown engines flywheel. This was all set per the manual but I could look at this again. + +11. New impeller water pump. + +12. Ran some marine engine chemicals through the water passage to clean them very good. The thermostats and poppet valve are removed to allow full flow of water to the heads.This was done in short term to rule out any issues with thermostats. + +13. I have checked the spark gap and its within range. As well as all the coil packs test out. But i could retest to confirm. + +14. Oil injection system was removed. Oil level float was tapped up to mimic a full tank. All hoses and ports were capped. + +15. Sometimes I do get an alarm, but do not know what it is from as I have no electronics on this motor yet. When the alarm sounds i can unplug both temp seniors and the alarm goes away. This makes me assume this alarm is only the water temp. It took about 30 min of testing last time before the alarm came on. + +16. Compression test shows #110-#120 on all cylinders. + +This thing seems to idle fine in Neutral, and will rev really high in Neutral. Place it into gear with no throttle and it wants to die, try to rev the throttle and the boat moves 5-6mph and the revs sound way lower. Its hard to say how low without a tach but by sound it seems to be less than half the revs. + +Could someone help me layout a game plan on where to go from here because I am lost now........could it still be the carbs? is it electrical? is there an issue in the foot? My mind is everywhere on this and I just need some help, please and thank you.......",You have really complicated things for yourself by mixing and matching components. My suggestion is you start again and use all the ancillary components from one power head and if parts are faulty then replace them. Continue down the mix and match road and you will very likely end up with another blown power head. I also suggest the carbs get fully rebuilt and timing and synchronizing done to the book.,You have really complicated things for yourself by mixing and matching components. My suggestion is you start again and use all the ancillary components from one power head and if parts are faulty then replace them. Continue down the mix and match road and you will very likely end up with another blown power head. I also suggest the carbs get fully rebuilt and timing and synchronizing done to the book.,Check the lanyard. +"I have a Yamaha outboard that runs fine at idle but once you shift into gear it has no power at all. Here is what is known. + +1. The motor started life out as a 1997 Vmax 150. It somehow blew a hole in the #6 cylinder. Still not sure of cause. Motor was then given to my brother who put it on the boat. + +2. A used powerhead was bought.--- this is an area that is grey to me. My brother was told that this used power head was the same block as the vmax. Upon me getting this boat to work on it I found out the two powerhead look the same but they had different carbs and different flywheel. + +3. Used powerhead installed with the proper base gasket. + +4. All components from the blown motor were swapped over to the used power head..ex.. carbs, heads, intake manifolds, all electronics, everything that could be swapped was. All new gaskets were used. + +5. Carbs from blown engine rebuilt with kits. Each soaked in berryman carb cleaner bucket for 15-20min, flushed with water, ran 2 cycles in dishwasher, back for another 15-20 min soak in berryman, flushed with spray brake cleaner, all passages cleared with compressed air then alcohol flushed followed by final flush and spray of aerosol carb cleaner. All passages seemed to flow as needed. All jets, and other internal parts were done the same. Float height checked and all resembled per the manual. + +6. 2 new fuel pumps installed + +7. New fuel lines installed from boat to fuel pumps. + +8. Fuel lines checked for tightness from fuel pumps to carbs. These lines seemed ok. They do not leak fuel anywhere. + +9. Carbs linked and synced and all open together in unison. + +10. The used powerhead did not have a pulser coil that could be advanced, the blown engine did so we swapped the blown engine pulser coil so it would work with the control arm and time with carbs. We used the used powerhead flywheel as the inside magnets looked the same as the blown engines flywheel. This was all set per the manual but I could look at this again. + +11. New impeller water pump. + +12. Ran some marine engine chemicals through the water passage to clean them very good. The thermostats and poppet valve are removed to allow full flow of water to the heads.This was done in short term to rule out any issues with thermostats. + +13. I have checked the spark gap and its within range. As well as all the coil packs test out. But i could retest to confirm. + +14. Oil injection system was removed. Oil level float was tapped up to mimic a full tank. All hoses and ports were capped. + +15. Sometimes I do get an alarm, but do not know what it is from as I have no electronics on this motor yet. When the alarm sounds i can unplug both temp seniors and the alarm goes away. This makes me assume this alarm is only the water temp. It took about 30 min of testing last time before the alarm came on. + +16. Compression test shows #110-#120 on all cylinders. + +This thing seems to idle fine in Neutral, and will rev really high in Neutral. Place it into gear with no throttle and it wants to die, try to rev the throttle and the boat moves 5-6mph and the revs sound way lower. Its hard to say how low without a tach but by sound it seems to be less than half the revs. + +Could someone help me layout a game plan on where to go from here because I am lost now........could it still be the carbs? is it electrical? is there an issue in the foot? My mind is everywhere on this and I just need some help, please and thank you.......","Thank you for that suggestion. I had come to much of that same conclusion and had started going trough the engine per the book to make sure everything was as it is supposed to be. I did make sure all the parts were from same powerhead. The only mixed parts at this point are the '95 flywheel, '95 powerhead, everything else is '97. + +Pulled the carbs apart for the 5th time and still found some trash in the bowls. I cleaned the carbs and reassembled. At this point I was thinking that some of the fuel lines may be deteriorating. Replaced all the fuel lines from the tank to the pumps and then to the carbs. There was a cheap plastic fuel filter and this got replaced with an inline glass filter with replaceable screens. Also a 10 micron fuel water separator filter was installed as well. + +The thing I found out is that the timing was way off! And full advance adjusting screw was missing. So I installed one and set the timing per the book. It seems a bit harder to start than before, but raising the idle speed lever on the control box helps. + +I hope to test it out on friday and will report back.","Thank you for that suggestion. I had come to much of that same conclusion and had started going trough the engine per the book to make sure everything was as it is supposed to be. I did make sure all the parts were from same powerhead. The only mixed parts at this point are the '95 flywheel, '95 powerhead, everything else is '97. + +Pulled the carbs apart for the 5th time and still found some trash in the bowls. I cleaned the carbs and reassembled. At this point I was thinking that some of the fuel lines may be deteriorating. Replaced all the fuel lines from the tank to the pumps and then to the carbs. There was a cheap plastic fuel filter and this got replaced with an inline glass filter with replaceable screens. Also a 10 micron fuel water separator filter was installed as well. + +The thing I found out is that the timing was way off! And full advance adjusting screw was missing. So I installed one and set the timing per the book. It seems a bit harder to start than before, but raising the idle speed lever on the control box helps. + +I hope to test it out on friday and will report back.","Some/many Yams run at or near 200:1 at idle. Darn hard to measure. + +If the oil pump is working then it is working. They very rarely ever fail. If ever." +"I have a Yamaha outboard that runs fine at idle but once you shift into gear it has no power at all. Here is what is known. + +1. The motor started life out as a 1997 Vmax 150. It somehow blew a hole in the #6 cylinder. Still not sure of cause. Motor was then given to my brother who put it on the boat. + +2. A used powerhead was bought.--- this is an area that is grey to me. My brother was told that this used power head was the same block as the vmax. Upon me getting this boat to work on it I found out the two powerhead look the same but they had different carbs and different flywheel. + +3. Used powerhead installed with the proper base gasket. + +4. All components from the blown motor were swapped over to the used power head..ex.. carbs, heads, intake manifolds, all electronics, everything that could be swapped was. All new gaskets were used. + +5. Carbs from blown engine rebuilt with kits. Each soaked in berryman carb cleaner bucket for 15-20min, flushed with water, ran 2 cycles in dishwasher, back for another 15-20 min soak in berryman, flushed with spray brake cleaner, all passages cleared with compressed air then alcohol flushed followed by final flush and spray of aerosol carb cleaner. All passages seemed to flow as needed. All jets, and other internal parts were done the same. Float height checked and all resembled per the manual. + +6. 2 new fuel pumps installed + +7. New fuel lines installed from boat to fuel pumps. + +8. Fuel lines checked for tightness from fuel pumps to carbs. These lines seemed ok. They do not leak fuel anywhere. + +9. Carbs linked and synced and all open together in unison. + +10. The used powerhead did not have a pulser coil that could be advanced, the blown engine did so we swapped the blown engine pulser coil so it would work with the control arm and time with carbs. We used the used powerhead flywheel as the inside magnets looked the same as the blown engines flywheel. This was all set per the manual but I could look at this again. + +11. New impeller water pump. + +12. Ran some marine engine chemicals through the water passage to clean them very good. The thermostats and poppet valve are removed to allow full flow of water to the heads.This was done in short term to rule out any issues with thermostats. + +13. I have checked the spark gap and its within range. As well as all the coil packs test out. But i could retest to confirm. + +14. Oil injection system was removed. Oil level float was tapped up to mimic a full tank. All hoses and ports were capped. + +15. Sometimes I do get an alarm, but do not know what it is from as I have no electronics on this motor yet. When the alarm sounds i can unplug both temp seniors and the alarm goes away. This makes me assume this alarm is only the water temp. It took about 30 min of testing last time before the alarm came on. + +16. Compression test shows #110-#120 on all cylinders. + +This thing seems to idle fine in Neutral, and will rev really high in Neutral. Place it into gear with no throttle and it wants to die, try to rev the throttle and the boat moves 5-6mph and the revs sound way lower. Its hard to say how low without a tach but by sound it seems to be less than half the revs. + +Could someone help me layout a game plan on where to go from here because I am lost now........could it still be the carbs? is it electrical? is there an issue in the foot? My mind is everywhere on this and I just need some help, please and thank you.......","Took the boat out today for a test and it performed better than it has in the past. We did run into a few issues..... + +1. While going through a section of no wake are the high temp alarms came on.- The t-stats are still out as well as the poppet. Will be ordering those soon and this should fix this issue. + +2. While running at WOT we started to trim the engine and get more speed. At one point the boat surges ahead and the speed greatly increases. It took me by surprise. Then all of a sudden the engine dies. I figured we broke something. tried restarting and it does start but dies after going into gear. Does this few times and then I notice the glass fuel filter is empty. So I pump the bulb several times, it refills and then restarted the motor and all seemed fine. It dies this few times, so I can only assume there is a fuel delivery issue. I think its not drawing enough fuel.-- again new fuel pumps and new lines. 3/8"" fuel lines. I plan to test again but what do you guys think? + +3. While running at 3/4 throttle every now and then you can feel a ""miss"" or ""hiccup"" in the engine. Would this be fuel or spark issue? + +4. The boat is a 1992 Hydrosport 17' bass boat. + +5. I do not have a tach hooked up to this motor. The boat does have one and it was working with an older eventide that was removed from it. Can I use the current tach with this Yamaha?","Took the boat out today for a test and it performed better than it has in the past. We did run into a few issues..... + +1. While going through a section of no wake are the high temp alarms came on.- The t-stats are still out as well as the poppet. Will be ordering those soon and this should fix this issue. + +2. While running at WOT we started to trim the engine and get more speed. At one point the boat surges ahead and the speed greatly increases. It took me by surprise. Then all of a sudden the engine dies. I figured we broke something. tried restarting and it does start but dies after going into gear. Does this few times and then I notice the glass fuel filter is empty. So I pump the bulb several times, it refills and then restarted the motor and all seemed fine. It dies this few times, so I can only assume there is a fuel delivery issue. I think its not drawing enough fuel.-- again new fuel pumps and new lines. 3/8"" fuel lines. I plan to test again but what do you guys think? + +3. While running at 3/4 throttle every now and then you can feel a ""miss"" or ""hiccup"" in the engine. Would this be fuel or spark issue? + +4. The boat is a 1992 Hydrosport 17' bass boat. + +5. I do not have a tach hooked up to this motor. The boat does have one and it was working with an older eventide that was removed from it. Can I use the current tach with this Yamaha?","Success!! + +I reattached the lower unit and this time submerged it in the test tub well above the level of the pump and Viola! , it pumped beautifully and works like a charm. I was hoping that my issue was something simple and obvious. + +Thanks so much to all for your help, i" +"I have a Yamaha outboard that runs fine at idle but once you shift into gear it has no power at all. Here is what is known. + +1. The motor started life out as a 1997 Vmax 150. It somehow blew a hole in the #6 cylinder. Still not sure of cause. Motor was then given to my brother who put it on the boat. + +2. A used powerhead was bought.--- this is an area that is grey to me. My brother was told that this used power head was the same block as the vmax. Upon me getting this boat to work on it I found out the two powerhead look the same but they had different carbs and different flywheel. + +3. Used powerhead installed with the proper base gasket. + +4. All components from the blown motor were swapped over to the used power head..ex.. carbs, heads, intake manifolds, all electronics, everything that could be swapped was. All new gaskets were used. + +5. Carbs from blown engine rebuilt with kits. Each soaked in berryman carb cleaner bucket for 15-20min, flushed with water, ran 2 cycles in dishwasher, back for another 15-20 min soak in berryman, flushed with spray brake cleaner, all passages cleared with compressed air then alcohol flushed followed by final flush and spray of aerosol carb cleaner. All passages seemed to flow as needed. All jets, and other internal parts were done the same. Float height checked and all resembled per the manual. + +6. 2 new fuel pumps installed + +7. New fuel lines installed from boat to fuel pumps. + +8. Fuel lines checked for tightness from fuel pumps to carbs. These lines seemed ok. They do not leak fuel anywhere. + +9. Carbs linked and synced and all open together in unison. + +10. The used powerhead did not have a pulser coil that could be advanced, the blown engine did so we swapped the blown engine pulser coil so it would work with the control arm and time with carbs. We used the used powerhead flywheel as the inside magnets looked the same as the blown engines flywheel. This was all set per the manual but I could look at this again. + +11. New impeller water pump. + +12. Ran some marine engine chemicals through the water passage to clean them very good. The thermostats and poppet valve are removed to allow full flow of water to the heads.This was done in short term to rule out any issues with thermostats. + +13. I have checked the spark gap and its within range. As well as all the coil packs test out. But i could retest to confirm. + +14. Oil injection system was removed. Oil level float was tapped up to mimic a full tank. All hoses and ports were capped. + +15. Sometimes I do get an alarm, but do not know what it is from as I have no electronics on this motor yet. When the alarm sounds i can unplug both temp seniors and the alarm goes away. This makes me assume this alarm is only the water temp. It took about 30 min of testing last time before the alarm came on. + +16. Compression test shows #110-#120 on all cylinders. + +This thing seems to idle fine in Neutral, and will rev really high in Neutral. Place it into gear with no throttle and it wants to die, try to rev the throttle and the boat moves 5-6mph and the revs sound way lower. Its hard to say how low without a tach but by sound it seems to be less than half the revs. + +Could someone help me layout a game plan on where to go from here because I am lost now........could it still be the carbs? is it electrical? is there an issue in the foot? My mind is everywhere on this and I just need some help, please and thank you.......","When you do a rebuild you need to be thorough and check everything whilst doing the job. It is easy to destroy a powerhead through lean fuel mixture,incorrect spark advance etc. What you are describing indicates possible fuel starvation. Thermostats and poppet valve are also essential to control engine temp. As far as tacho is concerned, I am not certain as to whether you can use it or not, you can only try","When you do a rebuild you need to be thorough and check everything whilst doing the job. It is easy to destroy a powerhead through lean fuel mixture,incorrect spark advance etc. What you are describing indicates possible fuel starvation. Thermostats and poppet valve are also essential to control engine temp. As far as tacho is concerned, I am not certain as to whether you can use it or not, you can only try","deejaycee_2000 said: + + + + Is your cav plate in line with the bottom of your keel? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes. But the engine height isn't a factor in this case bc the prop will ventilate before the intake loses flow over it. If that's what you were thinking. Before you tear it down again I'd get out and run it as I suggested, high rpms with engine down. The result will narrow down the cause." +"I have a Yamaha outboard that runs fine at idle but once you shift into gear it has no power at all. Here is what is known. + +1. The motor started life out as a 1997 Vmax 150. It somehow blew a hole in the #6 cylinder. Still not sure of cause. Motor was then given to my brother who put it on the boat. + +2. A used powerhead was bought.--- this is an area that is grey to me. My brother was told that this used power head was the same block as the vmax. Upon me getting this boat to work on it I found out the two powerhead look the same but they had different carbs and different flywheel. + +3. Used powerhead installed with the proper base gasket. + +4. All components from the blown motor were swapped over to the used power head..ex.. carbs, heads, intake manifolds, all electronics, everything that could be swapped was. All new gaskets were used. + +5. Carbs from blown engine rebuilt with kits. Each soaked in berryman carb cleaner bucket for 15-20min, flushed with water, ran 2 cycles in dishwasher, back for another 15-20 min soak in berryman, flushed with spray brake cleaner, all passages cleared with compressed air then alcohol flushed followed by final flush and spray of aerosol carb cleaner. All passages seemed to flow as needed. All jets, and other internal parts were done the same. Float height checked and all resembled per the manual. + +6. 2 new fuel pumps installed + +7. New fuel lines installed from boat to fuel pumps. + +8. Fuel lines checked for tightness from fuel pumps to carbs. These lines seemed ok. They do not leak fuel anywhere. + +9. Carbs linked and synced and all open together in unison. + +10. The used powerhead did not have a pulser coil that could be advanced, the blown engine did so we swapped the blown engine pulser coil so it would work with the control arm and time with carbs. We used the used powerhead flywheel as the inside magnets looked the same as the blown engines flywheel. This was all set per the manual but I could look at this again. + +11. New impeller water pump. + +12. Ran some marine engine chemicals through the water passage to clean them very good. The thermostats and poppet valve are removed to allow full flow of water to the heads.This was done in short term to rule out any issues with thermostats. + +13. I have checked the spark gap and its within range. As well as all the coil packs test out. But i could retest to confirm. + +14. Oil injection system was removed. Oil level float was tapped up to mimic a full tank. All hoses and ports were capped. + +15. Sometimes I do get an alarm, but do not know what it is from as I have no electronics on this motor yet. When the alarm sounds i can unplug both temp seniors and the alarm goes away. This makes me assume this alarm is only the water temp. It took about 30 min of testing last time before the alarm came on. + +16. Compression test shows #110-#120 on all cylinders. + +This thing seems to idle fine in Neutral, and will rev really high in Neutral. Place it into gear with no throttle and it wants to die, try to rev the throttle and the boat moves 5-6mph and the revs sound way lower. Its hard to say how low without a tach but by sound it seems to be less than half the revs. + +Could someone help me layout a game plan on where to go from here because I am lost now........could it still be the carbs? is it electrical? is there an issue in the foot? My mind is everywhere on this and I just need some help, please and thank you.......","If this indeed fuel starvation, how can this be remedied? The fuel pumps are new, but as I am typing this I wonder if the cause may be a lack of vacuum for the fuel pumps. Is there a way to test the pumps and flow?","If this indeed fuel starvation, how can this be remedied? The fuel pumps are new, but as I am typing this I wonder if the cause may be a lack of vacuum for the fuel pumps. Is there a way to test the pumps and flow?",How does it idle? If it idles rough it could be one or two injectors are stuck. I suggest you to get an external 6 gal gas tank and fill it up with fresh gas and then water test it. If it still the same then check to make sure all the injectors are clicking while the engine is running. You are either have water in the gas or the injectors not firing on all 4. The majority of the running issues with all the outboards are fuel related. This is from my experience. GL +"I have a Yamaha outboard that runs fine at idle but once you shift into gear it has no power at all. Here is what is known. + +1. The motor started life out as a 1997 Vmax 150. It somehow blew a hole in the #6 cylinder. Still not sure of cause. Motor was then given to my brother who put it on the boat. + +2. A used powerhead was bought.--- this is an area that is grey to me. My brother was told that this used power head was the same block as the vmax. Upon me getting this boat to work on it I found out the two powerhead look the same but they had different carbs and different flywheel. + +3. Used powerhead installed with the proper base gasket. + +4. All components from the blown motor were swapped over to the used power head..ex.. carbs, heads, intake manifolds, all electronics, everything that could be swapped was. All new gaskets were used. + +5. Carbs from blown engine rebuilt with kits. Each soaked in berryman carb cleaner bucket for 15-20min, flushed with water, ran 2 cycles in dishwasher, back for another 15-20 min soak in berryman, flushed with spray brake cleaner, all passages cleared with compressed air then alcohol flushed followed by final flush and spray of aerosol carb cleaner. All passages seemed to flow as needed. All jets, and other internal parts were done the same. Float height checked and all resembled per the manual. + +6. 2 new fuel pumps installed + +7. New fuel lines installed from boat to fuel pumps. + +8. Fuel lines checked for tightness from fuel pumps to carbs. These lines seemed ok. They do not leak fuel anywhere. + +9. Carbs linked and synced and all open together in unison. + +10. The used powerhead did not have a pulser coil that could be advanced, the blown engine did so we swapped the blown engine pulser coil so it would work with the control arm and time with carbs. We used the used powerhead flywheel as the inside magnets looked the same as the blown engines flywheel. This was all set per the manual but I could look at this again. + +11. New impeller water pump. + +12. Ran some marine engine chemicals through the water passage to clean them very good. The thermostats and poppet valve are removed to allow full flow of water to the heads.This was done in short term to rule out any issues with thermostats. + +13. I have checked the spark gap and its within range. As well as all the coil packs test out. But i could retest to confirm. + +14. Oil injection system was removed. Oil level float was tapped up to mimic a full tank. All hoses and ports were capped. + +15. Sometimes I do get an alarm, but do not know what it is from as I have no electronics on this motor yet. When the alarm sounds i can unplug both temp seniors and the alarm goes away. This makes me assume this alarm is only the water temp. It took about 30 min of testing last time before the alarm came on. + +16. Compression test shows #110-#120 on all cylinders. + +This thing seems to idle fine in Neutral, and will rev really high in Neutral. Place it into gear with no throttle and it wants to die, try to rev the throttle and the boat moves 5-6mph and the revs sound way lower. Its hard to say how low without a tach but by sound it seems to be less than half the revs. + +Could someone help me layout a game plan on where to go from here because I am lost now........could it still be the carbs? is it electrical? is there an issue in the foot? My mind is everywhere on this and I just need some help, please and thank you.......","First isolate the boat fuel system, use a portable tank of mixed fuel and see if it runs okay. You said in an earlier post you pulled the carbs apart again and they were full of gunk,have you found where it came from, you may have the same problem again.Your pumps may be dirty too which will affect their performance","First isolate the boat fuel system, use a portable tank of mixed fuel and see if it runs okay. You said in an earlier post you pulled the carbs apart again and they were full of gunk,have you found where it came from, you may have the same problem again.Your pumps may be dirty too which will affect their performance","OK, So based on previous posts by RicardoMarine and others, I have revised to Draft 2. I would very much appreciate comments and suggestions please" +"I have a Yamaha outboard that runs fine at idle but once you shift into gear it has no power at all. Here is what is known. + +1. The motor started life out as a 1997 Vmax 150. It somehow blew a hole in the #6 cylinder. Still not sure of cause. Motor was then given to my brother who put it on the boat. + +2. A used powerhead was bought.--- this is an area that is grey to me. My brother was told that this used power head was the same block as the vmax. Upon me getting this boat to work on it I found out the two powerhead look the same but they had different carbs and different flywheel. + +3. Used powerhead installed with the proper base gasket. + +4. All components from the blown motor were swapped over to the used power head..ex.. carbs, heads, intake manifolds, all electronics, everything that could be swapped was. All new gaskets were used. + +5. Carbs from blown engine rebuilt with kits. Each soaked in berryman carb cleaner bucket for 15-20min, flushed with water, ran 2 cycles in dishwasher, back for another 15-20 min soak in berryman, flushed with spray brake cleaner, all passages cleared with compressed air then alcohol flushed followed by final flush and spray of aerosol carb cleaner. All passages seemed to flow as needed. All jets, and other internal parts were done the same. Float height checked and all resembled per the manual. + +6. 2 new fuel pumps installed + +7. New fuel lines installed from boat to fuel pumps. + +8. Fuel lines checked for tightness from fuel pumps to carbs. These lines seemed ok. They do not leak fuel anywhere. + +9. Carbs linked and synced and all open together in unison. + +10. The used powerhead did not have a pulser coil that could be advanced, the blown engine did so we swapped the blown engine pulser coil so it would work with the control arm and time with carbs. We used the used powerhead flywheel as the inside magnets looked the same as the blown engines flywheel. This was all set per the manual but I could look at this again. + +11. New impeller water pump. + +12. Ran some marine engine chemicals through the water passage to clean them very good. The thermostats and poppet valve are removed to allow full flow of water to the heads.This was done in short term to rule out any issues with thermostats. + +13. I have checked the spark gap and its within range. As well as all the coil packs test out. But i could retest to confirm. + +14. Oil injection system was removed. Oil level float was tapped up to mimic a full tank. All hoses and ports were capped. + +15. Sometimes I do get an alarm, but do not know what it is from as I have no electronics on this motor yet. When the alarm sounds i can unplug both temp seniors and the alarm goes away. This makes me assume this alarm is only the water temp. It took about 30 min of testing last time before the alarm came on. + +16. Compression test shows #110-#120 on all cylinders. + +This thing seems to idle fine in Neutral, and will rev really high in Neutral. Place it into gear with no throttle and it wants to die, try to rev the throttle and the boat moves 5-6mph and the revs sound way lower. Its hard to say how low without a tach but by sound it seems to be less than half the revs. + +Could someone help me layout a game plan on where to go from here because I am lost now........could it still be the carbs? is it electrical? is there an issue in the foot? My mind is everywhere on this and I just need some help, please and thank you.......","it appeared to be black specs of rubber, i am assuming from some of the black fuel lines that I have since replaced. The pumps are diaphragm pumps, but I will pull them apart and check them out as well.","it appeared to be black specs of rubber, i am assuming from some of the black fuel lines that I have since replaced. The pumps are diaphragm pumps, but I will pull them apart and check them out as well.","Got it. Interesting. + +I hope for the OP's sake that the website is correct." +"I have a Yamaha outboard that runs fine at idle but once you shift into gear it has no power at all. Here is what is known. + +1. The motor started life out as a 1997 Vmax 150. It somehow blew a hole in the #6 cylinder. Still not sure of cause. Motor was then given to my brother who put it on the boat. + +2. A used powerhead was bought.--- this is an area that is grey to me. My brother was told that this used power head was the same block as the vmax. Upon me getting this boat to work on it I found out the two powerhead look the same but they had different carbs and different flywheel. + +3. Used powerhead installed with the proper base gasket. + +4. All components from the blown motor were swapped over to the used power head..ex.. carbs, heads, intake manifolds, all electronics, everything that could be swapped was. All new gaskets were used. + +5. Carbs from blown engine rebuilt with kits. Each soaked in berryman carb cleaner bucket for 15-20min, flushed with water, ran 2 cycles in dishwasher, back for another 15-20 min soak in berryman, flushed with spray brake cleaner, all passages cleared with compressed air then alcohol flushed followed by final flush and spray of aerosol carb cleaner. All passages seemed to flow as needed. All jets, and other internal parts were done the same. Float height checked and all resembled per the manual. + +6. 2 new fuel pumps installed + +7. New fuel lines installed from boat to fuel pumps. + +8. Fuel lines checked for tightness from fuel pumps to carbs. These lines seemed ok. They do not leak fuel anywhere. + +9. Carbs linked and synced and all open together in unison. + +10. The used powerhead did not have a pulser coil that could be advanced, the blown engine did so we swapped the blown engine pulser coil so it would work with the control arm and time with carbs. We used the used powerhead flywheel as the inside magnets looked the same as the blown engines flywheel. This was all set per the manual but I could look at this again. + +11. New impeller water pump. + +12. Ran some marine engine chemicals through the water passage to clean them very good. The thermostats and poppet valve are removed to allow full flow of water to the heads.This was done in short term to rule out any issues with thermostats. + +13. I have checked the spark gap and its within range. As well as all the coil packs test out. But i could retest to confirm. + +14. Oil injection system was removed. Oil level float was tapped up to mimic a full tank. All hoses and ports were capped. + +15. Sometimes I do get an alarm, but do not know what it is from as I have no electronics on this motor yet. When the alarm sounds i can unplug both temp seniors and the alarm goes away. This makes me assume this alarm is only the water temp. It took about 30 min of testing last time before the alarm came on. + +16. Compression test shows #110-#120 on all cylinders. + +This thing seems to idle fine in Neutral, and will rev really high in Neutral. Place it into gear with no throttle and it wants to die, try to rev the throttle and the boat moves 5-6mph and the revs sound way lower. Its hard to say how low without a tach but by sound it seems to be less than half the revs. + +Could someone help me layout a game plan on where to go from here because I am lost now........could it still be the carbs? is it electrical? is there an issue in the foot? My mind is everywhere on this and I just need some help, please and thank you.......",They have valves in them which if contaminated will not work properly thus reducing efficiency,They have valves in them which if contaminated will not work properly thus reducing efficiency,"maikel10909 said: + + + + Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks. + +Click to expand... + + +This is where a $30 manual would help you save a lot of time, money and headache." +"My 1999 Yamaha 90 starts right up every time. When I put it in gear and give it throttle it will not go above 1200 Rmps as if it is not firing on all cylinders. No amount of time letting it warm up or reving it in nuetral will fix it BUT if I turn it off and let it sit for about a half hour it will then fire up and work perfectly for the rest of the day. Any thoughts or suggestions on what might be going on? Thank you very much in advanced for any help. +-Jake-","I'm not overly hip to newer Yamaha outboards, but I've had a similar issue in a Yamaha motorcycle. In my case it was a sticking float needle in the carb. When the bike was on it's kickstand, the angle shifted the fuel which pushed the float up, closing the needle and shutting off the fuel supply to that carb. it would then stick closed when I stood the bike up off it's kickstand. It would run great for a couple minutes until it used what fuel was in the bowl, then I'd lose that cylinder. Tap the carb a few times and it would start running right. + +This same thing could happen to your motor from tilting it if it has carbs.","I'm not overly hip to newer Yamaha outboards, but I've had a similar issue in a Yamaha motorcycle. In my case it was a sticking float needle in the carb. When the bike was on it's kickstand, the angle shifted the fuel which pushed the float up, closing the needle and shutting off the fuel supply to that carb. it would then stick closed when I stood the bike up off it's kickstand. It would run great for a couple minutes until it used what fuel was in the bowl, then I'd lose that cylinder. Tap the carb a few times and it would start running right. + +This same thing could happen to your motor from tilting it if it has carbs.","2x on make your own...... + +two other options - check with tiara as they are still in business and check their owners forum, on their www site...." +"2001/ 150hp Yamaha, no spark. if I separate harness from key switch and jump starter, will isolate the problem between switch and engine. will engine run with harness seperated",Ck your Lanyard switch.,Ck your Lanyard switch.,"The 5.0 that OMC was using was 350 HP + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... What year,..?? What Model,..?? 250 hp is more like it,..... + + + + Had it dynoed last year and came out at 328HP. + +Click to expand... + + +What cam, 'n other components,..?? at what rpms,.. ?? + +High horsepower automobile motors suffer reversion when stuffed into boats, 'n die gruesome deaths,.... + +Boat motors need to build Big torque down low,...... 5000 rpms, Tops,...." +"2001/ 150hp Yamaha, no spark. if I separate harness from key switch and jump starter, will isolate the problem between switch and engine. will engine run with harness seperated","thank's for reply. checked out lanyard and ignition, both ok. could you tell me what oms should be for bench testing stator for 150 2001 yamaha","thank's for reply. checked out lanyard and ignition, both ok. could you tell me what oms should be for bench testing stator for 150 2001 yamaha",Need to unstrap the trailer from the boat after you launch it +"2001/ 150hp Yamaha, no spark. if I separate harness from key switch and jump starter, will isolate the problem between switch and engine. will engine run with harness seperated",cranking engine with harness disconnected should give you spark. Very unusual for Yamaha stators to fail.Using a DVA meter you should get around 100v across the stator at cranking speed.,cranking engine with harness disconnected should give you spark. Very unusual for Yamaha stators to fail.Using a DVA meter you should get around 100v across the stator at cranking speed.,"ashraf said: + + + + This is not my engine, it belongs to the Cost guard and they asked me to help figure out the reason of this, they use it in salt water and according to them the valve was not damaged, in any case if the timing was wrong the valve would bend not the connecting rod, right. If detonation or pre-ignition were the reason, how to prevent such a thing in the future? + +Click to expand... + + +Did you read post #10? Forget about Pre-ignition and detonation. + +The boat belongs to the CG. I would say they Did a full throttle Fwd into reverse for an emergency stop. That will fill the cylinders with water. Ask me how I know this. + +What you have to understand....they will never tell you what really happened." +"2001/ 150hp Yamaha, no spark. if I separate harness from key switch and jump starter, will isolate the problem between switch and engine. will engine run with harness seperated",i had no spark condition on my 02 150 txrz . it turned out to be the master power solenoid.,i had no spark condition on my 02 150 txrz . it turned out to be the master power solenoid.,"jnobby said: + + + + Each line has its own pick-up and F/W separator therefore totally independent of one another. I checked the check valve and it is just fine blew on it both ways and it did what it was suppose to do. Spring works well. Going to take it for a burn tonight perhaps. + +Click to expand... + + +If there's a filter on that fuel pick-up line and you have separate tanks / separate F/W filters I'd pull or cut that filter off the pick-up line. It can seem clean an clear but remember what I said in the beginning - As the engines run and suck fuel, particulate that could have been left in the tank since maufacture can begin to get stuck on that little filter... As you keep running, they keep sucking fuel and more gets stuck on it to the point it restricts flow... Then, you throttle back or shut down, fuel sloshes around in the tank and those particles drop off that little filter and start floating around again. Everything runs fine until it happens again they get again get stuck on that stupid little filter." +"Hey Guys, + + +1987 Yamaha Pro50 + + +I noticed a leak of two stroke oil on the crank case cover (intake side). Wiped it off...and it came back. I bought the motor second hand. The guy had rebuilt it because it had locked up. I sanded down the paint in the area and can't see any cracks. I'm going to pull the front cover for closer inspection and I was looking at replacing it with a good cover but I've come to find through research there is some debate that case halves are/are not interchangeable due to them being line bored for a precision fit. + + +Any insight on this? Has anyone thrown together different case halves with success?",Yes they are a precision fit and line bored.-----You take your chances if you want to use another cover.-----Best to take it apart and see what is wrong first.-----Those joints rarely leak so something is wrong here !!,Yes they are a precision fit and line bored.-----You take your chances if you want to use another cover.-----Best to take it apart and see what is wrong first.-----Those joints rarely leak so something is wrong here !!,"David, +I had very similar issues with my '99 250,it turned out to be the stator. One motor went out on me and got it fixed, just 2-weeks later went out fishing and the same thing on the other motor. I first thought is was fuel starvation and changed all filters and rebuilt carbs. No change. As to your RPM gaining /dropping with your trim switch, normal for it to increase when you trim motors up (less drag on props)." +"Hey Guys, + + +1987 Yamaha Pro50 + + +I noticed a leak of two stroke oil on the crank case cover (intake side). Wiped it off...and it came back. I bought the motor second hand. The guy had rebuilt it because it had locked up. I sanded down the paint in the area and can't see any cracks. I'm going to pull the front cover for closer inspection and I was looking at replacing it with a good cover but I've come to find through research there is some debate that case halves are/are not interchangeable due to them being line bored for a precision fit. + + +Any insight on this? Has anyone thrown together different case halves with success?","racerone said: + + + + Yes they are a precision fit and line bored.-----You take your chances if you want to use another cover.-----Best to take it apart and see what is wrong first.-----Those joints rarely leak so something is wrong here !! + +Click to expand... + + +My best guess at this point is when the motor locked up, a rod damaged the side of the case and it wasn’t caught/repaired upon rebuild. We shall see.","racerone said: + + + + Yes they are a precision fit and line bored.-----You take your chances if you want to use another cover.-----Best to take it apart and see what is wrong first.-----Those joints rarely leak so something is wrong here !! + +Click to expand... + + +My best guess at this point is when the motor locked up, a rod damaged the side of the case and it wasn’t caught/repaired upon rebuild. We shall see.",1983 Johnson j35ects +"Motor runs perfect untill you run for a while and shut it off, go to lunch for a bout a half hour and it will try to start and runs for a couple of seconds and dies. This goes on for 4 or 5 tryes and then it just cranks and does not start at all. The next morning it starts and rund perfectly. This is not consistent and will not do it every time. Motor was just servised by a competent shop.","Had similar symptoms. Tech put engine on computer on engine, nothing showed but I traced 12v from the harness to the EMU. turned out to be the rectifier mounted on front","Had similar symptoms. Tech put engine on computer on engine, nothing showed but I traced 12v from the harness to the EMU. turned out to be the rectifier mounted on front",modern technology at work +"Hi all + +first timer + +I have a 98 115hp. My overheat buzzer triggered during flushing after a fishing outing. Motor was at idle and killed it immediately. I checked a few things and tried again. Same thing. After some research, I check the poppit valve and it was stuck open. Cleaned it out and tried again with no issue. +So my question is + +should I worry if any damage was done to the motor?","Did you run it for a long time while the buzzer was sounding....No you shut it down. Addressed the issue and it works as it should... The buzzer is there to alert you that there is a problem. If you ignore the buzzer and continue to use the engine then you would have done damage. + +You did the right thing.","Did you run it for a long time while the buzzer was sounding....No you shut it down. Addressed the issue and it works as it should... The buzzer is there to alert you that there is a problem. If you ignore the buzzer and continue to use the engine then you would have done damage. + +You did the right thing.","OK, ended up using stainless toggle bolts, manufacturer said screws would work, as its also attached to the console, but I felt better using the toggle bolts." +"Hello + +I have a 2013 Yamaha 4 stroke efi outboard on my 5.0 Seafarer Venus. + +I have only had the boat a few weeks. When I first took it out with three other people when I try to put her on the plane the alarm went off as the boat was just about to drop the nose and come onto the plane. I thought it was a dirty fuel filter and got a full service done (replaced oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, anode etc.) + +I did some big trips with just one mate and had no issues. Jumped on the plane easy and no alarm. I went out on Saturday with two mates and it was a dead flat day and it worked fine. On Sunday it was a bit rougher and took longer to get on the plane and the alarm went off at the same point (When the stern digs deep and the bow rides high right before it jumps up on the plane). It didn't enter limp mode, it just had an alarm go off. The alarm is a constant alarm, not beeping. I turned the motor off and restarted it and it operated fine. I drove down wind and got it on the plane and it had no issues. When I tried again the alarm went off again. I dropped my mate off at the ramp and drove and without his weight the boat jumped on the plane a couple of seconds quicker and no alarm. As a test I purposely drove it poorly trying to get the bow as high as possible and the stern to dig and the alarm goes off even with just me in the boat. The alarm seems to only go off when the motor is at a certain angle. + +I came home and checked the oil level, the fuel seperator in the boat and the fuel filter on the motor and all seemed fine. The tell tale seemed very cool as well on the water. The motor is slightly oversized for the boat so the bottom of the back of the cowling does dip in the water a bit at this angle. + +My dad is pretty cluey about these things and said it might be an oxy sensor due to water coming up the exhaust and confusing the sensor? Also we seemed to use more fuel than I expected for the trip we did? + +Anyone have any ideas would this alarm might be and what causes it? +Also the obvious thing would be to see a mechanic. I live in a remote place where there's no mechanics with computers for 4 strokes and they're dodgy mechanics so please don't suggest that. + +Thanks so much for any advice! + +Nick","I think (that) o2 feedback sensor is no. + +do you have a yamaha scanner? it fault code remains on ECU. + +it is not expensive. U can buy on ebay. just about 70 $","I think (that) o2 feedback sensor is no. + +do you have a yamaha scanner? it fault code remains on ECU. + +it is not expensive. U can buy on ebay. just about 70 $",What ever you buy no matter what make or model 4 stroke you buy always get a oil pressure test done as well as compression tests and water flow .Save yourself headaches and money . +"Hello + +I have a 2013 Yamaha 4 stroke efi outboard on my 5.0 Seafarer Venus. + +I have only had the boat a few weeks. When I first took it out with three other people when I try to put her on the plane the alarm went off as the boat was just about to drop the nose and come onto the plane. I thought it was a dirty fuel filter and got a full service done (replaced oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, anode etc.) + +I did some big trips with just one mate and had no issues. Jumped on the plane easy and no alarm. I went out on Saturday with two mates and it was a dead flat day and it worked fine. On Sunday it was a bit rougher and took longer to get on the plane and the alarm went off at the same point (When the stern digs deep and the bow rides high right before it jumps up on the plane). It didn't enter limp mode, it just had an alarm go off. The alarm is a constant alarm, not beeping. I turned the motor off and restarted it and it operated fine. I drove down wind and got it on the plane and it had no issues. When I tried again the alarm went off again. I dropped my mate off at the ramp and drove and without his weight the boat jumped on the plane a couple of seconds quicker and no alarm. As a test I purposely drove it poorly trying to get the bow as high as possible and the stern to dig and the alarm goes off even with just me in the boat. The alarm seems to only go off when the motor is at a certain angle. + +I came home and checked the oil level, the fuel seperator in the boat and the fuel filter on the motor and all seemed fine. The tell tale seemed very cool as well on the water. The motor is slightly oversized for the boat so the bottom of the back of the cowling does dip in the water a bit at this angle. + +My dad is pretty cluey about these things and said it might be an oxy sensor due to water coming up the exhaust and confusing the sensor? Also we seemed to use more fuel than I expected for the trip we did? + +Anyone have any ideas would this alarm might be and what causes it? +Also the obvious thing would be to see a mechanic. I live in a remote place where there's no mechanics with computers for 4 strokes and they're dodgy mechanics so please don't suggest that. + +Thanks so much for any advice! + +Nick","Jinsoo said: + + + + I think (that) o2 feedback sensor is no. + +do you have a yamaha scanner? it fault code remains on ECU. + +it is not expensive. U can buy on ebay. just about 70 $ + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks Kim. + +I think I'll have to buy a scanner myself and check what it is. I think it must be water getting into the fuel somehow or that oxy sensor. But I appreciate the advice that the oxy sensor is unlikely. That helps me a bit. +Thanks for replying. I appreciate the help! + +Nick","Jinsoo said: + + + + I think (that) o2 feedback sensor is no. + +do you have a yamaha scanner? it fault code remains on ECU. + +it is not expensive. U can buy on ebay. just about 70 $ + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks Kim. + +I think I'll have to buy a scanner myself and check what it is. I think it must be water getting into the fuel somehow or that oxy sensor. But I appreciate the advice that the oxy sensor is unlikely. That helps me a bit. +Thanks for replying. I appreciate the help! + +Nick","Clogged jets will not stop it from starting. Clogged jets will usually cause a rough or no idle condition. + +Assuming your choke solenoid is working, Pull the carb cover off and try to start the engine when cold. Make sure the choke is closing all the way. The rubber gasket between the carb cover and the carb body will swell up over time and interfere with the choke butterfly not allowing it to close completely. + + +If all looks good with the choke, Do a compression test and a leak down test." +"Hello + +I have a 2013 Yamaha 4 stroke efi outboard on my 5.0 Seafarer Venus. + +I have only had the boat a few weeks. When I first took it out with three other people when I try to put her on the plane the alarm went off as the boat was just about to drop the nose and come onto the plane. I thought it was a dirty fuel filter and got a full service done (replaced oil, oil filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, anode etc.) + +I did some big trips with just one mate and had no issues. Jumped on the plane easy and no alarm. I went out on Saturday with two mates and it was a dead flat day and it worked fine. On Sunday it was a bit rougher and took longer to get on the plane and the alarm went off at the same point (When the stern digs deep and the bow rides high right before it jumps up on the plane). It didn't enter limp mode, it just had an alarm go off. The alarm is a constant alarm, not beeping. I turned the motor off and restarted it and it operated fine. I drove down wind and got it on the plane and it had no issues. When I tried again the alarm went off again. I dropped my mate off at the ramp and drove and without his weight the boat jumped on the plane a couple of seconds quicker and no alarm. As a test I purposely drove it poorly trying to get the bow as high as possible and the stern to dig and the alarm goes off even with just me in the boat. The alarm seems to only go off when the motor is at a certain angle. + +I came home and checked the oil level, the fuel seperator in the boat and the fuel filter on the motor and all seemed fine. The tell tale seemed very cool as well on the water. The motor is slightly oversized for the boat so the bottom of the back of the cowling does dip in the water a bit at this angle. + +My dad is pretty cluey about these things and said it might be an oxy sensor due to water coming up the exhaust and confusing the sensor? Also we seemed to use more fuel than I expected for the trip we did? + +Anyone have any ideas would this alarm might be and what causes it? +Also the obvious thing would be to see a mechanic. I live in a remote place where there's no mechanics with computers for 4 strokes and they're dodgy mechanics so please don't suggest that. + +Thanks so much for any advice! + +Nick","What is the complete model of the motor? There are many different EFI models. Begins with the letter F. + +Tell Pops that he needs to go back to school. There are no Yamaha four strokes of any models that use an oxygen sensor. Only a few two stroke models did. + +There are only two things that will normally sound the alarm. Low oil pressure and over temperature. The RPM reduction mode will also be set. A continuous tone will be heard. + +There are certain four stroke models that use a fuel in warning system. Normally, it will beep (as opposed to a continuous tone) but generally only when the throttle handle is in neutral. If the motor is shifted into gear the alarm will disappear. + +Some models will sound the alarm if and when there is a low voltage to the motor.","What is the complete model of the motor? There are many different EFI models. Begins with the letter F. + +Tell Pops that he needs to go back to school. There are no Yamaha four strokes of any models that use an oxygen sensor. Only a few two stroke models did. + +There are only two things that will normally sound the alarm. Low oil pressure and over temperature. The RPM reduction mode will also be set. A continuous tone will be heard. + +There are certain four stroke models that use a fuel in warning system. Normally, it will beep (as opposed to a continuous tone) but generally only when the throttle handle is in neutral. If the motor is shifted into gear the alarm will disappear. + +Some models will sound the alarm if and when there is a low voltage to the motor.",Engine compression test first! Engine has been overheated. +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.",When you squeeze the primer ball does it get firm and stay firm?,When you squeeze the primer ball does it get firm and stay firm?,"Thanks for Flyingscott for his reply. My idea about upgrading to 70hp is no more valid. I got my new boat, aluminium body with glassfiber interior: http://www.yamarin.fi/en/Boat/53-Bow-Rider/ProductId/46. It has now my 2004 Yamaha 50hp 2-stroke installed. It took 3 heavy adults (app. 310kg of raw human meat) easily to surf. 20,3 knots with 3900 rpm, 26 knots with 4600rpm. Max rews were 4900 with one person. The propeller was the ""standard"" factory installed G-propeller (13"" pitch, 11-1/8 diameter). I am totally impressed about the performance of Yamaha 50hp 2-stroke! I do not need more punch after all. Typical load is 2 adults with week-end gear and the engine is fine for that. I do have a Yamaha spare propeller 10-5/9 x 12"" which would rise the max rews to 5000+ but now with ""standard"" propeller the marching speed of 20 knots is achieved with a non-stressing and easygoing 3900rpm. + + +Why am I so keen on this 2-stroke Yamaha? My summer camp and the boating area is quite far from service facilities. It is called Finland lake district. With a 4-stroke I should take the boat every autumn to service and back. Takes time and effort and money. On the other hand I can do the extremely simple service operations to my 2-stroke Yamaha by my self. As I have done for some 40+ years with my 2-strokes. The Yamaha gets only 30 hours to the clock per season. With today's modern 2-stroke ""green"" oils I can still live without feeling like an environmental criminal. + + +After all these positive words for my 2-stroke I must confess that 4-strokes and direct injection 2-strokes (like e-tec and Orbital based Mercury and Tohatsu engines) are technically superior engineering products when compared to my oldish Yamaha 50hp Getol. But my fool-proof 2004 2-stroke 50hp is like an old friend with an ever pleasing outstanding torque. + + +Ps. These things, on top of ordinary service, have given me trouble-free outboard motoring: uncompromized petrol/gasoline hygiene; keep it clean! I use alkylate petrol in the last run of the season so that the whole gasoline system is full of that during the winter months. Fill up the gasoline tank with fresh gasoline when the new season begins. I never use E10 gasoline, I use gasoline with max. 5% of alcohol. I do not use gasoline preservatives (no harm done if you use). I do not insist that this is the whole truth, but my engines run and start flawlesly every spring after 5 months winter rest." +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + When you squeeze the primer ball does it get firm and stay firm? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for your response.. + +Yes it does.. I squeezed it a few more times and the motor cranked right up... + +but still running very rough .. smoking more than normal... when I took it to idle rpm it died... (it will not start at idle rpm) + +Then I restarted it and it was really smoking let it run for a bit .. took it down to idle rpm and it didn't shut off!..Crazy. + +Anyway .. the problem persists .. motor is really running rough... and smoking more than normal.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + When you squeeze the primer ball does it get firm and stay firm? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for your response.. + +Yes it does.. I squeezed it a few more times and the motor cranked right up... + +but still running very rough .. smoking more than normal... when I took it to idle rpm it died... (it will not start at idle rpm) + +Then I restarted it and it was really smoking let it run for a bit .. took it down to idle rpm and it didn't shut off!..Crazy. + +Anyway .. the problem persists .. motor is really running rough... and smoking more than normal.","racerone said: + + + + Is the screen in place on the fuel pump ??-------Inspected inside of your fuel tank ? + +Click to expand... + + +i havent checked, i will check tomorrow after work and repost what i find, thanks" +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","ballen06 said: + + + + Thanks for your response.. + +Yes it does.. I squeezed it a few more times and the motor cranked right up... + +but still running very rough .. smoking more than normal... when I took it to idle rpm it died... (it will not start at idle rpm) + +Then I restarted it and it was really smoking let it run for a bit .. took it down to idle rpm and it didn't shut off!..Crazy. + +Anyway .. the problem persists .. motor is really running rough... and smoking more than normal. + +Click to expand... + + + +Clarity .. Of course it didn't shut off at idle .. it ran at a higher rpm and ran rough at that point I just turned the ignition off at that point.","ballen06 said: + + + + Thanks for your response.. + +Yes it does.. I squeezed it a few more times and the motor cranked right up... + +but still running very rough .. smoking more than normal... when I took it to idle rpm it died... (it will not start at idle rpm) + +Then I restarted it and it was really smoking let it run for a bit .. took it down to idle rpm and it didn't shut off!..Crazy. + +Anyway .. the problem persists .. motor is really running rough... and smoking more than normal. + +Click to expand... + + + +Clarity .. Of course it didn't shut off at idle .. it ran at a higher rpm and ran rough at that point I just turned the ignition off at that point.",Straight from the service manual. +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","Not clear here. I think that Docksidemarineservices is asking is, without the engine running, when you squeeze the primer ball, does it get hard and stay hard, or, does it get soft again without the engine running.","Not clear here. I think that Docksidemarineservices is asking is, without the engine running, when you squeeze the primer ball, does it get hard and stay hard, or, does it get soft again without the engine running.","Yes. But only if the motor is more than 50% of the time work the maximum speed. But reality shows that the engine operates most of the time up to 3000 rpm. +Also, not to manufacture Yamaha's F60 model if it would be unstable" +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + When you squeeze the primer ball does it get firm and stay firm? + +Click to expand... + + + +Yes.. With the engine not running I squeezed the ball .. it firmed up and stayed firm.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + When you squeeze the primer ball does it get firm and stay firm? + +Click to expand... + + + +Yes.. With the engine not running I squeezed the ball .. it firmed up and stayed firm.",hi the engine was replaced last year with the same engine that was in the boat the alternator was bought new same as previous alt wires were conneted but no rpm power light is on tec when you turn on egnition +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","Start wih the basics, compression should be even on all cylinders at around 120psi, check for spark on all cylinders.","Start wih the basics, compression should be even on all cylinders at around 120psi, check for spark on all cylinders.",ok thanks. What about getting rid of the thumb caps because one is gone. Can I go with a different screw and spring? +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","And one other thing, make sure the choke isn't stuck on","And one other thing, make sure the choke isn't stuck on",https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tih4o9-VJ2g&t=861s +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","iang6766 said: + + + + Start wih the basics, compression should be even on all cylinders at around 120psi, check for spark on all cylinders. + +Click to expand... + + + +I get 90 psi on all cyclinders..cold. + +I will check spark tomorrow. + +Thanks","iang6766 said: + + + + Start wih the basics, compression should be even on all cylinders at around 120psi, check for spark on all cylinders. + +Click to expand... + + + +I get 90 psi on all cyclinders..cold. + +I will check spark tomorrow. + +Thanks",Test and inspect the starter motor. +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","Latest info... + +Checked the spark on all cylinders.. they all sparked. + +Latest news is the engine seems to run OK with the cowl off... but when the cowl is on it won't even idle. + +Also the idle screw doesn't seem to have much of an affect on the idle. + +That's all I have right now.","Latest info... + +Checked the spark on all cylinders.. they all sparked. + +Latest news is the engine seems to run OK with the cowl off... but when the cowl is on it won't even idle. + +Also the idle screw doesn't seem to have much of an affect on the idle. + +That's all I have right now.","re: "" I do not know why there would be a wire with a full circle connector near the engine coil going no where."" + +That is the wire that goes to the tach. It attaches to the coil. The coil has three connections: +1) The big wire on the top that goes to the top of the distributor +2) A wire that goes to the +12V when the ignition is on +3) A thin wire that goes to either the distributor and/or the ignition electronic module. + +Apparently you disturbed this wire when you did some work on your engine. Reattach it to the coil (it should reach nicely) per #3 above. The coil contacts of interest (#2 & #3) are vertical screws with nuts on them that the ""full circle connector connector"" will just fit on." +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","Not familiar with your model but sounds like possible exhaust leak or maybe engine breather pipe split / disconnected, allowing fumes into air intake. Also piston blowby due to low compressions/worn rings. When cowl is off pure air is getting to cylinders.","Not familiar with your model but sounds like possible exhaust leak or maybe engine breather pipe split / disconnected, allowing fumes into air intake. Also piston blowby due to low compressions/worn rings. When cowl is off pure air is getting to cylinders.",Yes. pushing the key in. I am not positive on some throttle. +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","See if it runs okay out on the water with the cowl off, if it does then you have probably got a blown or leaking power head gasket allowing exhaust gasses to leak up into the cowl in which case you will have to remove the power head.","See if it runs okay out on the water with the cowl off, if it does then you have probably got a blown or leaking power head gasket allowing exhaust gasses to leak up into the cowl in which case you will have to remove the power head.",Compare the part number differences for the 9.9 and the 15 HP models. To determine which 15 parts needed to be installed on the 9.9 to increase its HP to 15. Then inspect the motor to verify that the parts have been installed. +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","ballen06 said: + + + + Latest info... + +Checked the spark on all cylinders.. they all sparked. + +Latest news is the engine seems to run OK with the cowl off... but when the cowl is on it won't even idle. + +Also the idle screw doesn't seem to have much of an affect on the idle. + +That's all I have right now. + +Click to expand... + + +Run the engine with the cover off after the sun goes down. Get a spray bottle full of water and spray the spark plug wires while it is running. Do you see a lightning storm? If yes, you need new wires. + +They can arc to the engine cover.","ballen06 said: + + + + Latest info... + +Checked the spark on all cylinders.. they all sparked. + +Latest news is the engine seems to run OK with the cowl off... but when the cowl is on it won't even idle. + +Also the idle screw doesn't seem to have much of an affect on the idle. + +That's all I have right now. + +Click to expand... + + +Run the engine with the cover off after the sun goes down. Get a spray bottle full of water and spray the spark plug wires while it is running. Do you see a lightning storm? If yes, you need new wires. + +They can arc to the engine cover.","Thanks for your help, i'll try all these things." +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.",Thanks all.... I believe you are correct.. Exhaust leak... maybe all I have to do is tighten a few bolts... hahaha,Thanks all.... I believe you are correct.. Exhaust leak... maybe all I have to do is tighten a few bolts... hahaha,"both engines have alternators? id get rid of the 1 2 BOTH OFF switch and use one of the many solid-state automatic charging systems. You can use one battery as starting battery for both engines and charge it from engine 1 use the other two as house batteries that get charged up by engine 2. Many ways to do this. +Ultimately your goal is to have all the batteries bet fully charged while the engines run but save the starting battery for starting only. Blue sea systems makes a nice setup. you may actually want to add more batteries especially if you like to hang on the hook and run the lights and stereo and computer and tv all evening. your house bank needs to be big enough to handle everything yet not discharge more than 30 percent for safety" +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.",It's confirmed.. There was a hole in the exhaust port which allowed fumes to come up under the engine cover. The motor doesn't like breathing these fumes.,It's confirmed.. There was a hole in the exhaust port which allowed fumes to come up under the engine cover. The motor doesn't like breathing these fumes.,"boscoe said: + + + + Now we are getting some where. A remote showing the controlled model to which a tiller handle has been added. + +Did you add the tiller handle or did someone else add it? Are you certain that it does not have the warning horn within the handle? + +Does the tiller handle look like this? + +Yes it looks like this. It has the idle adjustment on top just in front of the gear selector. Factory install when purchased. I never hear any alarms upon start up so I guess there is no alarm??? There are no LED lights showing for oil/temp alert as showing in the parts picture. + +Click to expand..." +"I have a 2 cycle Yamaha 150 hp outboard + +It was running perfectly . Then out of the blue it started running rough. + +So I pulled the spark plugs and they were oily... so I bought new ones and installed them. + +I still have the same issue... so... + +I checked the gas fuel filter on the motor and it was clear. + +I checked the diaphragm on the fuel pump... looked fine. + +Is there any type of diagnostic test I could perform? + +Help me please.","may be that... + +the water into cylinder.....","may be that... + +the water into cylinder.....",You do not want to charge the 24v batteries with the motor. The ignition switch and bilge pump are normally separate from the accy circuit. switch the guages from the ignition switch and run the lights and accessories from a dedicated accy circuit. If you have to pull two wires from the start battery 8g tinned wire to the fuse block. Put a inline fuse at the battery positive to the accy switch for the fuse block. You can never have too many fuses so fuse all the accys individually and put a light for accy power on the dash so you dont leave it on by mistake. +"I am about to buy a boat, want to make sure the overheat alarm works, I know you ground it out or something but forgot. I want to test directly from the alarm first, but should I also get a beep on the key turn that will indicate overheat alarm works or is the key turn beep a different alarm check?","Test the switch's continuity by placing in hot water, attach pig tails to multimeter. Discontinuity below 183º, continuity above. Test alarm circuit by unplugging engine side pigtails from switch, then plug engine side pigtails together to complete signal. Turn key ON. Alarm should sound.","Test the switch's continuity by placing in hot water, attach pig tails to multimeter. Discontinuity below 183º, continuity above. Test alarm circuit by unplugging engine side pigtails from switch, then plug engine side pigtails together to complete signal. Turn key ON. Alarm should sound.","IF and thats a big IF, the oil pump went out completely on the motor I would expect much more damage than just one cyl. They are not known for failures as they are an excellent injection system. And the way they work each cylinder would have had to run without oil. I would look at the carb you are going to want to find the problem before putting money into it." +"I am about to buy a boat, want to make sure the overheat alarm works, I know you ground it out or something but forgot. I want to test directly from the alarm first, but should I also get a beep on the key turn that will indicate overheat alarm works or is the key turn beep a different alarm check?","taymag said: + + + + I am about to buy a boat, want to make sure the overheat alarm works, I know you ground it out or something but forgot. I want to test directly from the alarm first, but should I also get a beep on the key turn that will indicate overheat alarm works or is the key turn beep a different alarm check? + +Click to expand... + + +just remove over heat sensor. + +and boiling water. + +get the sensor into boiling water. + +aftet that, check continuty by multimeter.","taymag said: + + + + I am about to buy a boat, want to make sure the overheat alarm works, I know you ground it out or something but forgot. I want to test directly from the alarm first, but should I also get a beep on the key turn that will indicate overheat alarm works or is the key turn beep a different alarm check? + +Click to expand... + + +just remove over heat sensor. + +and boiling water. + +get the sensor into boiling water. + +aftet that, check continuty by multimeter.","I would suggest that you re-wire and install a battery selector switch. Google ""Perko"" and view the various setups they have. That should solve any problems." +"I have a 2 stroke 80 horsepower C80TLRV outboard motor. There is a black rubber hose that goes from the engine head to the engine cowling where it discharges to the water. Where the hose meets the engine cowling, there is a black plastic fitting that the hose connects to. Can you tell me what that part number is and where I can purchase it. I can not find it on the engine parts schematic. Thanks",Find it under ----bottom cowling----Item # 2,Find it under ----bottom cowling----Item # 2,"Galvanizing is a zinc coating that protects the steel from rusting too quick.-------Look up the term "" galvanic cell "" if you must and learn about this.------------I would be very carefull and ask questions before rushing out and using paint on these pontoons." +"I have a 2 stroke 80 horsepower C80TLRV outboard motor. There is a black rubber hose that goes from the engine head to the engine cowling where it discharges to the water. Where the hose meets the engine cowling, there is a black plastic fitting that the hose connects to. Can you tell me what that part number is and where I can purchase it. I can not find it on the engine parts schematic. Thanks","racerone said: + + + + Find it under ----bottom cowling----Item # 2 + +Click to expand... + + That is it!! Thank you very much.","racerone said: + + + + Find it under ----bottom cowling----Item # 2 + +Click to expand... + + That is it!! Thank you very much.","Sounds like you've spun the hub. +easy test, remove the prop and borrow one to sea trial. +if no issue, get your prop re -hubbed and you're golden." +"Back in May of this year I did a Carb overhaul and got my Yamaha 50TLRB running again. I've had it out a number of times (not as much as I'd like or should have) and it ran great. Last time was about a month ago and I had no issues. I had new spark plugs, new fuel filters, new water separator, new fuel lines, new vac hoses. + +I got some free time yesterday and got out to the lake and immediately had the same issues as I had had in May. Idle great and bog down and die on acceleration. I limped in and ran some straight Sea Foam into the engine, let it sit for 30 min and ran it out again with gas. I went back to the lake today. Started perfect, idled perfect, accelerated perfect, ran at 5500 RPM perfect, .... for about 2 min. Fortunately went out into the wind. The motor died. I got it started and began limping in again. Barely made it to the ramp and it would not start to load the boat on the trailer (I had to load it old school). + +I came home and blew out all the fuel lines, siphoned 20 gallons of gas out of the built in 27 gal tank. I shoved an old cast net weight inside my siphon hose to get it all the way to the bottom corner and jacked up one side of the trailer to get the gas into that corner. Then I cut a small hole in the hose and blew air through it to suck all but some drops of gas out. When I look in the tank I can see all sorts of crap (specks, and just general gunk). + +I put new filters again and blew out the fuel lines. I'm going to get a small portable gas tank so I can make sure I'm getting absolutely clean gasoline into the engine the next time I run it. I'm going to do the Sea Foam thing again as soon as I can get new gas. + +When I drained the gas in the tank it was slightly off color, but the gas in the water separator was brown. + +Now, to the question. I no doubt have to clean out the gas tank. I can remove mine with some degree of trouble and I'd rather not. What is the generally prescribed method for cleaning built in tanks? I thought about using soap and water and then jetting it dry after rinsing it real good. I also thought about putting in another 5 gal of gas and then draining it while sloshing it around to keep the crapola in suspension. Last resort will be to pull it out and clean it. I know that I should probably skip straight to last resort, but I'm a little lazy these days. + +Alan","I believe fuel filters are 10 microns....meaning the debris you can see in your tank is not going to pass thru the filter. Question I'd be asking myself is how did such large debris get in the tank. I'd figure that out before spending time cleaning the tank. Once you've got a clean tank, pull the carbs, then pull all jets. Soak these then clear each one out, making sure when holding up to light you can see thru. Doesn't take much too clog jets. If only 1 clogs you'll definitely have performance issues, just like what you're experiencing.","I believe fuel filters are 10 microns....meaning the debris you can see in your tank is not going to pass thru the filter. Question I'd be asking myself is how did such large debris get in the tank. I'd figure that out before spending time cleaning the tank. Once you've got a clean tank, pull the carbs, then pull all jets. Soak these then clear each one out, making sure when holding up to light you can see thru. Doesn't take much too clog jets. If only 1 clogs you'll definitely have performance issues, just like what you're experiencing.","DANNYCWAY said: + + + + I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny + +Click to expand... + + +Is this motor in saltwater? Is the motor overheating? If so, the water jackets could be plugged with salt buildup. Run the motor and check each cylinder with a infra red temp gauge. Operating temp should be between 140-165 degrees, the alarm comes on when temps are between 183-195 degrees. If clogged water jackets is the problem, the jackets should be removed and the water channel would have to be cleaned." +"Back in May of this year I did a Carb overhaul and got my Yamaha 50TLRB running again. I've had it out a number of times (not as much as I'd like or should have) and it ran great. Last time was about a month ago and I had no issues. I had new spark plugs, new fuel filters, new water separator, new fuel lines, new vac hoses. + +I got some free time yesterday and got out to the lake and immediately had the same issues as I had had in May. Idle great and bog down and die on acceleration. I limped in and ran some straight Sea Foam into the engine, let it sit for 30 min and ran it out again with gas. I went back to the lake today. Started perfect, idled perfect, accelerated perfect, ran at 5500 RPM perfect, .... for about 2 min. Fortunately went out into the wind. The motor died. I got it started and began limping in again. Barely made it to the ramp and it would not start to load the boat on the trailer (I had to load it old school). + +I came home and blew out all the fuel lines, siphoned 20 gallons of gas out of the built in 27 gal tank. I shoved an old cast net weight inside my siphon hose to get it all the way to the bottom corner and jacked up one side of the trailer to get the gas into that corner. Then I cut a small hole in the hose and blew air through it to suck all but some drops of gas out. When I look in the tank I can see all sorts of crap (specks, and just general gunk). + +I put new filters again and blew out the fuel lines. I'm going to get a small portable gas tank so I can make sure I'm getting absolutely clean gasoline into the engine the next time I run it. I'm going to do the Sea Foam thing again as soon as I can get new gas. + +When I drained the gas in the tank it was slightly off color, but the gas in the water separator was brown. + +Now, to the question. I no doubt have to clean out the gas tank. I can remove mine with some degree of trouble and I'd rather not. What is the generally prescribed method for cleaning built in tanks? I thought about using soap and water and then jetting it dry after rinsing it real good. I also thought about putting in another 5 gal of gas and then draining it while sloshing it around to keep the crapola in suspension. Last resort will be to pull it out and clean it. I know that I should probably skip straight to last resort, but I'm a little lazy these days. + +Alan","I don't know how the debris got in the tank unless it got in through the vent. The cap snaps closed on an ""O"" ring. I'm going to try putting a couple of gallons of new gas in and siphon it out again. I changed all the filters again today and blew the engine out through every place I could get to with air without pulling carbs. I'm going to try it one more time and then pull the durn carbs again. + +Thanks for the reply. + +Alan","I don't know how the debris got in the tank unless it got in through the vent. The cap snaps closed on an ""O"" ring. I'm going to try putting a couple of gallons of new gas in and siphon it out again. I changed all the filters again today and blew the engine out through every place I could get to with air without pulling carbs. I'm going to try it one more time and then pull the durn carbs again. + +Thanks for the reply. + +Alan","44' gibson said: + + + + I have learned to shock my water sytem at the begining of each season, by doing so the water in my tank stays fresh as long as 6 weeks. To shock the sytem I put ten gallons of water in tank, (while hot water heater is still bypassed), and add a quart of bleach. I cycle my pump until I get bleach water out of every fuacet. Leave in system only over night and then drain and flush. Connect hot water heater and fill your tank. Caution don't leave bleach in lines to long it is very caustic, and can damage fittings faucets and lines. + +Click to expand... + + +Can bleach remove all the unwanted threads within a tank? +I'm not satisfy to this tips, have any thing else...?" +"Installing the Sierra 6-wire switch to my Yammy harness. I've got the red, black, purple, and yellow w/black stripe connected. Can't figure out where the yellow w/red stripe or blackw/green stripe connects to my Yamaha harness. HELP!!!","You need to look up yamaha outboard color chart, Mastertech Marine have one on their site, cross reference with your sierra color chart and go from there","You need to look up yamaha outboard color chart, Mastertech Marine have one on their site, cross reference with your sierra color chart and go from there","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + You stated that you installed Complete drop-ins. + +This goes for all who use this site. If you do not answer our questions completely and accurately we cannot help you. + +Click to expand... + + + +I apologize. I misunderstood what you were asking." +"Installing the Sierra 6-wire switch to my Yammy harness. I've got the red, black, purple, and yellow w/black stripe connected. Can't figure out where the yellow w/red stripe or blackw/green stripe connects to my Yamaha harness. HELP!!!",,,"racerone said: + + + + If it has not dropped at all it is likely that the spline of the driveshaft is stuck in the spline of the crankshaft.----Difficult to use heat in that area.--------I have used adapters and hydraulic puller to remove stubborn units. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... If it's the drive shaft stuck in the crank shaft, hang it upside-down,..... + +If there's the tiniest crack, pump it fulla penertratin' oil,.... Hopefully, it'll run down the drive shaft, where it can do some good,..." +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!",Could it be an issue with the exhaust manifold?,Could it be an issue with the exhaust manifold?,"Go to West Marine. They make all kinds of boat decals and may have the ones you need in their computer. It may be best to call them. 1-800-262-8464 + +https://www.westmarine.com/WestSelectors/Custom-Boat-Graphics" +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!",You should have done a compression test before removing the head. Water in the cylinder usually points to the head gasket problem.,You should have done a compression test before removing the head. Water in the cylinder usually points to the head gasket problem.,"It is not a switch at all. It is a potentiometer. Three wires. Black, pink and orange. + +Known as the trim sender. Tells a trim gauge the position of the motor." +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!","Yeah was thinking that after i pulled the head off, so just re-fit with new gasket?","Yeah was thinking that after i pulled the head off, so just re-fit with new gasket?","If what you have isn't doing so well, I'd suggest replacement with something else.....go to the local marina(s) and see what works in the majority of the boats similar to what you have....some prefer bulbs but most have 'upgraded' to LED indicators.....there's also a wide variety that can be obtained online..... + +The key drivers are supply voltage (12VDC), connection method, and mounting method....as a rule, you get what you pay for.....so a $5 indicator will likely outlast the $2 one..." +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!",Could it be pulling in water through the crank case?,Could it be pulling in water through the crank case?,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Use a permanent felt marker of a contrasting color , Or get a white UNI PAINT OPAQUE OIL BASED MARKER PX20 made by mitsubishi pencil. when dry will not come off + +Click to expand... + + +Can anyone tell me what type and size prop I have? I dont see any details on it anywhere." +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!","How long have you owned it ?----You say "" it has had a few problems "" -please give those details.","How long have you owned it ?----You say "" it has had a few problems "" -please give those details.","NEVADA GAMABLER said: + + + + guess I will have to plug up the weep hole also + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... I donno yer hull, but I've got a Starcraft riveted hull,.... + +Sealin' the weephole in the keel might fix it,.... til Winter,..... + +If that cavity is fulla water, it'll blow it apart if it freezes,... + +The hull envelope is above that piece of metal, hence the weep hole to drain it,.... + +Can ya get to the keel on the Inside of the hull,..?? that's where it sounds like the leak is,.... + +Maybe paint it inside with Glov-it, or Geo-cel tri-polymer, brushable,... +Both are fluid enough to seep in, cure, 'n seal small leaks,..." +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!","The boat had been lying out of the water for a few years and picked it up cheap. So had it around 8-months, originally the steering shaft was seized, so stripped the leg and painted and re-built with new bushes/gaskets/water pump/fresh g-box oil. Leaving the engine complete as was running fine before I stripped it. Got it out on the water, then starter motor gave trouble, so re-con starter, new battery cables and battery. Next was it running on 2 cylinders and removal of the head. Yes I admit it was a bit silly buying my first boat that had been out the water for a few years, but I`m a diesel mechanic and thought I could bring it back to life!","The boat had been lying out of the water for a few years and picked it up cheap. So had it around 8-months, originally the steering shaft was seized, so stripped the leg and painted and re-built with new bushes/gaskets/water pump/fresh g-box oil. Leaving the engine complete as was running fine before I stripped it. Got it out on the water, then starter motor gave trouble, so re-con starter, new battery cables and battery. Next was it running on 2 cylinders and removal of the head. Yes I admit it was a bit silly buying my first boat that had been out the water for a few years, but I`m a diesel mechanic and thought I could bring it back to life!",Replaced old carb with new yamaha eom carb $$$ ran fine on the muffs after starting...took boat out for a test and still getting sputtering when attempting to accelerate but will accelerate under full throttle and run. When backing off throttle it seems like it's missing and occasionally will backfire through carb if you rev it up at idle in neutral. I've checked both gap and resistance on new plugs all ok there. I now suspect a coil issue but what's the easy way to check resistance in the coil and help isolate the problem and I also need the ohm specs for this coil. Also replaced thermostat with new one. I will occasionally get a warning horn at idle now after running a while and it doesn't stop until it cools off but for the life of me the engine appears normal temp wise and the pee hole is warm showing correct thermostat operation. Again I'm trying to assess overheat switch of some sort or oil pressure warning switch is faulty. +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!","Well re-fitted the cylinder after being machined, started it running on 3, then put the muffs on and switch on the water and the lower cylinder dropped, getting a good spark, but obv water still getting in somewhere!! HELP!","Well re-fitted the cylinder after being machined, started it running on 3, then put the muffs on and switch on the water and the lower cylinder dropped, getting a good spark, but obv water still getting in somewhere!! HELP!","Ayuh,... Yer lookin' at replacin' the ignition Switch,. not the ignition,..... + +You'll get better answers, askin' this in the Mercury Outboard section, rather than this forum,...." +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!","On the port side of the motor is an exhaust cover.On the inside of that is an inner exhaust plate which some times corrodes through.You will have to remove the powerhead to get all the bolts out and you are going to break a few.While the powerhead is off , inspect the part where the exhaust gasses go into the leg.That could also have corroded.If none of these is the problem , then you might have a cracked block.","On the port side of the motor is an exhaust cover.On the inside of that is an inner exhaust plate which some times corrodes through.You will have to remove the powerhead to get all the bolts out and you are going to break a few.While the powerhead is off , inspect the part where the exhaust gasses go into the leg.That could also have corroded.If none of these is the problem , then you might have a cracked block.",Flat battery or bad battery cable connection or bad battery switch are possible causes. +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!","Thank you very much for the advise, will strip it this weekend and let you know my findings. And since you mention it could be a water back feed through the exhaust, I noticed markings on the affected piston next to the exhaust port.","Thank you very much for the advise, will strip it this weekend and let you know my findings. And since you mention it could be a water back feed through the exhaust, I noticed markings on the affected piston next to the exhaust port.","?----Are you testing on a hose ?----What are the local atmospheric conditions ?------It is "" cooling "" water that has cooled the motor and the exhaust , so yes when you put your hand there it will be warm !-----Test with boat in the lake." +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!",Let me know what you find. I had two 60HP yammies witch both had the inner exhaust covers corroded through.The one was a 1992 model and the other a 1995.On both the corrosion was on the bottom cylinder.Regards Pieter.,Let me know what you find. I had two 60HP yammies witch both had the inner exhaust covers corroded through.The one was a 1992 model and the other a 1995.On both the corrosion was on the bottom cylinder.Regards Pieter.,"Ayuh,..... Sounds like the rack or the pinion is stripped,...... + +If so, it's best to replace the helm, 'n cable as a ""Kit"",....." +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!","Hi, pulled off the exhaust cover and found a hold in the intermediate plate next to the lower exhaust port! So glad I found the fault, welding it at work and ordered a new gasket. Thanks for every ones help!","Hi, pulled off the exhaust cover and found a hold in the intermediate plate next to the lower exhaust port! So glad I found the fault, welding it at work and ordered a new gasket. Thanks for every ones help!","I had the sameproblem with my '02 F115. You have a fuel restriction somewhere... It run'sfine until you try to feed serious fuel under load and then the problems start.The fact that it will rev to 6K in neutral means nothing as there's no load onthe engine and you can reach 6,000 RPM with minimal true fuel flow as you justgive it a shot of throttle to get it there. Check your fuel flow starting from the gastank back. I'd suggest you pull the fuel line that exits from the fuel filterthat is under the cowling of the engine at the left rear of the engine. Stick atowel in there and squeeze your primer bulb a few times... with each squeezeyou should see a significant, unrestricted shot of fuel squirt easily out ofthat outlet each time you squeeze the primer bulb. If not, replace the filter in that littlehousing and see if it then squirts with each squeeze. If it is stillrestricted, you could have a clogged fuel pick up line in your fuel tank. Somepick-up lines in fuel tanks have a filter on the end of them where they sit onthe bottom of the fuel tanks. If you have a filter on the end of your pick-upline in your gas tank, pull it out or cut it off & toss it. They causeproblems and never should have been put there with all the other filters inline. That should eliminate any potentialproblem with flow from the gas tank to the outlet on that fuel filter under theengine cowling. You replaced the fuel/water so that shouldn't be the problem.Hopefully, that will fix it. If not, your problem is probably where mine wasand it will be in one of two places. One is easy (clogged fuel injectors), theother is not (the filter that sits on the bottom of the high pressure fuel pumpin the VTS tank that is BEHIND the intake and manifold pretty deep inside theengine. Pull the fuel injectors and send them to Fuel Injector Man (www.fuelinjectorman.com) (thecheapest place I found that cleans injectors). He replaces all gaskets,o-rings, the internal filters in the injectors, cleans the injectors withultrasonic and sends them back to you sealed with all the old parts so you knowthey were changed as well as before and after flow and spray readings from hisequipment. Put the injectors back in (put a little oil on the o-rings on theinjectors first) and see if that fixes it. If that doesn't fix it... you'llneed a good set of tools and about 5 hours to get in and out (the first time)to get to that filter on the bottom of the High Pressure Fuel Pump that sitsinside the VST (vapor separator tank). The Yamaha engineer who put that filterthere was an idiot. The filter itself is about $30 but getting to it is a PITA.It is a tiny little assembly and the filter is a little micro screen about3/8"" across. You'll pay serious money to have it changed at a Yamahadealer so grab your tools or someone who has them, a shade tree and somebeverages. The job isn't horrible but there is one bolt (I believe it is thelowest on manifold) that will take a great deal of time playing around withvarious ratchet extensions and such until you find the right combo that works. That one bolt will take you a great deal oftime as it did me. Again, wonderfuldesign. If that's where you end up, Google ""Yamaha 115 VST filterchange"" and such as I did until you find instructions and photos posted byothers who've had the pleasure of replacing that friggin’ thing. Because it isjust a screen in a little assembly, you could probably blow it out and be finebut for $30 for a replacement... If I'm going to spend 5 hours getting to itand back out I'll spend the $30 to have a new one. There is also a crazy shapedgasket on top of the VST housing that costs about $45. It is recommended to be replaced when you goin there. I didn't replace mine and itworked fine but I did pull it, cleaned everything up well with carb cleaner(not the gasket), and put all back together without any problems since. Thatlittle filter on the bottom of the high pressure fuel pump can often be cloggedby gummy messes thanks to the crap ethanol fuel that has been forced on us or byfibers from that filter under the housing on the left rear of the enginefalling off over time if it isn't changed at regular intervals. Hopefully itisn't that filter in the VST tank but if it is... take comfort in knowing thatothers have gone there before and saved themselves $700+ in labor to replace a$30 filter. +Lastly, If youare using gas blended with ethanol as I do as I refuse to pay for 100% gas thatis available at many marinas... use the green marine Sta-Bil ALL THE TIME. Not just for storage but ALL THE TIME. The detergents in it help to keep ethanolrelated problems to a minimum." +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!","Neilshand, did the weld work? Did you use might, Tig or stick? I'm having the same issues and will be pulling the motor apart soon. +Can the part be bought and replaced? +Thanks for your help","Neilshand, did the weld work? Did you use might, Tig or stick? I'm having the same issues and will be pulling the motor apart soon. +Can the part be bought and replaced? +Thanks for your help",fresh gas? no water in gas?vent on tank open and working?does it fail if someone is pumping the bulb? +"Hi all, Im new to the boating scene, and bought a Swiftcraft half cabin with a Yamaha 80hp 2-stroke outboard. Its had a few problems then it started running on 2 cylinders. Had a quick check and found the lower cylinder had water contamination which was leaning the mixture out and stopped it firing until the revs picked up. Removed the cylinder head, found it was spotless clean, like it had been power washed. Cant see any obvious issues with the head or gasket. Can anyone on here give me some direction as what route to take, or anywhere else to check for the water getting into the cylinder? Thanks in advance!!","NeilShand said: + + + + Hi, pulled off the exhaust cover and found a hold in the intermediate plate next to the lower exhaust port! So glad I found the fault, welding it at work and ordered a new gasket. Thanks for every ones help! + +Click to expand... + + +Hey there I pulled my exhaust apart and it was clean, pistons look good and I'm holding between 118-122 psi on all three cylinders. I have water getting into the lower cylinder, was the hole prominent and easy to see in the exhaust? Any help is greatly appreciated","NeilShand said: + + + + Hi, pulled off the exhaust cover and found a hold in the intermediate plate next to the lower exhaust port! So glad I found the fault, welding it at work and ordered a new gasket. Thanks for every ones help! + +Click to expand... + + +Hey there I pulled my exhaust apart and it was clean, pistons look good and I'm holding between 118-122 psi on all three cylinders. I have water getting into the lower cylinder, was the hole prominent and easy to see in the exhaust? Any help is greatly appreciated",try a product called buff magic. i used it on my boat that was heavily oxidized and it works just as it claims with not much effort. works better than any 3m product. +"Hello, + +About 3 years ago the Yamaha T50TLRX started exhausting what I think is steam from the auxiliary exhaust port. This has gotten worse over time where it is now a very noticeable ""cloud"" at all times. I did ask a local Yamaha dealer once about them and they suggested it is normal and not to worry. + +A second change is that around the auxiliary port there is now evidence of heat and the rear top cover of the engine is also discolored. + +Apart from the items mentioned above, the engine runs fine and stars easy. The compression on the cylinders is average with #3 a bit lower than the other three, at #1: 90, #2: 80, #3: 70, #4: 90. I am now planning to investigate and do any necessary repairs to the engine before the boating season starts again in the spring. + +Based on the symptoms above and in the pictures what is the problem with this engine? +Is it a problem with the head gasket and would replacing it solve it? +Is it a problem with plugged exhaust ports and would ""Salt Away"" clear it? +Will the powerhead need a full rebuild? + +Appreciate any feedback and help. + +Andy",Those compression numbers are not encouraging for a 4 stroke.-----Test with another gauge with throttle open.-----Perhaps there is a compression release on it too.,Those compression numbers are not encouraging for a 4 stroke.-----Test with another gauge with throttle open.-----Perhaps there is a compression release on it too.,? are you planning to run with a timing light to observe spark behaviour ? +"Hello, + +About 3 years ago the Yamaha T50TLRX started exhausting what I think is steam from the auxiliary exhaust port. This has gotten worse over time where it is now a very noticeable ""cloud"" at all times. I did ask a local Yamaha dealer once about them and they suggested it is normal and not to worry. + +A second change is that around the auxiliary port there is now evidence of heat and the rear top cover of the engine is also discolored. + +Apart from the items mentioned above, the engine runs fine and stars easy. The compression on the cylinders is average with #3 a bit lower than the other three, at #1: 90, #2: 80, #3: 70, #4: 90. I am now planning to investigate and do any necessary repairs to the engine before the boating season starts again in the spring. + +Based on the symptoms above and in the pictures what is the problem with this engine? +Is it a problem with the head gasket and would replacing it solve it? +Is it a problem with plugged exhaust ports and would ""Salt Away"" clear it? +Will the powerhead need a full rebuild? + +Appreciate any feedback and help. + +Andy","I understand, but it may be just the way I measure the compression. We had this engine for the last 10 years and there has not been a significant change in compression. Assuming that we do not have an issue with the compression, do you have any suggestions and solutions that relate to the steam issue? What causes a steam cloud to come from the auxiliary exhaust port?","I understand, but it may be just the way I measure the compression. We had this engine for the last 10 years and there has not been a significant change in compression. Assuming that we do not have an issue with the compression, do you have any suggestions and solutions that relate to the steam issue? What causes a steam cloud to come from the auxiliary exhaust port?",What manual do you have? What is the ID? +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.","It's a good engine, but all depends on whether or not there was any damage from the overheat. Compression should be around 100psi and same on both cylinders, if it's good then a fuel system clean, water pump rebuild and a good service should see it back on the water.","It's a good engine, but all depends on whether or not there was any damage from the overheat. Compression should be around 100psi and same on both cylinders, if it's good then a fuel system clean, water pump rebuild and a good service should see it back on the water.",What is the model of the motor? +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.","iang6766 said: + + + + It's a good engine, but all depends on whether or not there was any damage from the overheat. Compression should be around 100psi and same on both cylinders, if it's good then a fuel system clean, water pump rebuild and a good service should see it back on the water. + +Click to expand... + +Sounds good, will do a compression check and go from there..","iang6766 said: + + + + It's a good engine, but all depends on whether or not there was any damage from the overheat. Compression should be around 100psi and same on both cylinders, if it's good then a fuel system clean, water pump rebuild and a good service should see it back on the water. + +Click to expand... + +Sounds good, will do a compression check and go from there..","Have you removed high speed jets ( 4 of them ) and confirmed that they are clean.-----------Have you removed flywheel to inspect points , rotor and distributor cap ?-Points are set at 0.010""" +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.",Pulled the head and the top cylinder is heavily scored. Put out about 70 pounds of compression. The lower was about 100. I guess it is toast. I did find a 1992 20 HP power head on CL for $100 claiming to be perfect. Are all the Yamaha 20 HP the same block and pistons?,Pulled the head and the top cylinder is heavily scored. Put out about 70 pounds of compression. The lower was about 100. I guess it is toast. I did find a 1992 20 HP power head on CL for $100 claiming to be perfect. Are all the Yamaha 20 HP the same block and pistons?,I would pull both pistons since when you have one out 90% of the job is done. If the one piston is good reuse it. New rings and hone that cylinder as well as the other cylinder. Which may or may not be damaged. +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.","I wouldn't throw any money at it, you still need gaskets , seals etc.probably not worth it","I wouldn't throw any money at it, you still need gaskets , seals etc.probably not worth it","Ayuh,.... It oughta work just fine,...." +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.","Nucad said: + + + + Pulled the head and the top cylinder is heavily scored. Put out about 70 pounds of compression. The lower was about 100. I guess it is toast. I did find a 1992 20 HP power head on CL for $100 claiming to be perfect. Are all the Yamaha 20 HP the same block and pistons? + +Click to expand... + + +SInce the rest of my engine appears to be in nice condition, just wondering if it is practical to rebore the cylinders and fit oversize pistons? I'm guessing this could be done for a few hundred dollars in parts and machining? +Pricing a 20 HP motor, I'm certainly not going down the new road. Might be a fun winter project too.","Nucad said: + + + + Pulled the head and the top cylinder is heavily scored. Put out about 70 pounds of compression. The lower was about 100. I guess it is toast. I did find a 1992 20 HP power head on CL for $100 claiming to be perfect. Are all the Yamaha 20 HP the same block and pistons? + +Click to expand... + + +SInce the rest of my engine appears to be in nice condition, just wondering if it is practical to rebore the cylinders and fit oversize pistons? I'm guessing this could be done for a few hundred dollars in parts and machining? +Pricing a 20 HP motor, I'm certainly not going down the new road. Might be a fun winter project too.",I would start by checking the fuel line for air leaks if your losing prime. +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.","Not a 20 but a Yamaha 15 torture test + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc224x9hd9k","Not a 20 but a Yamaha 15 torture test + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc224x9hd9k","Ayuh,.... It's gonna be covered right,..?? + +Just use ACX, or BCX plywood,... The glue in both is the same as yer Marine graded plywood,..." +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.",If you can provide the skilled labour then rebuilding is the best $ option.-----If you have to find and pay a shop it is not worth it.,If you can provide the skilled labour then rebuilding is the best $ option.-----If you have to find and pay a shop it is not worth it.,"hi Boscoe +I know its an old post but i have the same situation and in Australia. +I found the sticker that says 501415 are you able to tell me the year/ model number thanks" +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.","kw18 said: + + + + Not a 20 but a Yamaha 15 torture test + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc224x9hd9k + +Click to expand... + + +Wow, those kids were not taught much about the value of things. Impressive motor. I now have two powerheads and think I might rebuild one of them. +The better of the two has some faint scoring marks in line with the ports. Is this normal? Haven't done a compression test as it is not mounted to anything","kw18 said: + + + + Not a 20 but a Yamaha 15 torture test + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc224x9hd9k + +Click to expand... + + +Wow, those kids were not taught much about the value of things. Impressive motor. I now have two powerheads and think I might rebuild one of them. +The better of the two has some faint scoring marks in line with the ports. Is this normal? Haven't done a compression test as it is not mounted to anything","Ya, I know just trying to use the terminology in the thread that 02batsea used. I counted and I own 9 batteries between the boat (2), the 3 power-sports and the 4/3 cars. I'm moving to a AGM, type 24, batteries for the boat. + +Yes looked solar chargers, its definitely a option, but I have an option to run 350' of 14 Gage UF-B wire to the boat. In the long run it will be more beneficial to me +[h=1][/h]" +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.",Scoring is NOT normal.-----Pistons will likely show more damage on the skirt.-------If you do not have to WORK for money than you do not have to take care of stuff.----Just get a new one when something goes wrong.,Scoring is NOT normal.-----Pistons will likely show more damage on the skirt.-------If you do not have to WORK for money than you do not have to take care of stuff.----Just get a new one when something goes wrong.,"Usually the issues that arise when things heat up are the opposite of the problem you're having i.e. coils heat up then start mis firing etc. +Have you tried running the engine with a portable fuel tank? That's an easy way to rule out any problems with the installed fuel tank (if you have one). +Are the thermostats installed?" +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.",anyone know the best source of parts for yamaha motors? They don't seem to be as supported as an old Evinrude.,anyone know the best source of parts for yamaha motors? They don't seem to be as supported as an old Evinrude.,"Im not an electrician and ac/dc is my Achillies Heel. Spoke to a mechanic who told me that the system is looped together and that all current flows thru each componant. While the rectifier will continue to charge as it should, if it is faulty it can draw energy that is needed to fire other componants. Whether this is ture or not I dont know. All I know is that it was the problem. No other companant had any effect on on the ignition firing properly." +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.","Perhaps the start of -----"" you must throw it away and buy a new one "" mind set.-----I am going over a 1963 18 HP Johnson right now.-----Lots of used parts are available for those if you know where to look.","Perhaps the start of -----"" you must throw it away and buy a new one "" mind set.-----I am going over a 1963 18 HP Johnson right now.-----Lots of used parts are available for those if you know where to look.","Thanks for the reply +Now it's not the first time I've changed impeller and thermostat ... it's just a little different with 4 stroke engines a 2 strokes but one is that water cooling is hot but not so hot.I'm doing an experiment with the thermostat and see what happens.." +"Just wondering what the opinion is on the 20 HP Yamaha two strokes? I have a neglected one from about the year 2000. It was apparently run with a bad impeller and then put away a few years ago. It's free so for fun I'd like to dig around inside. Haven't tested compression yet. +I also have a 1971 Evinrude Fastwin 18 powering my tin boat, but I'd be curious to know how this stacks up? It is certainly heavier. If the compression is good, are parts easily available? And priced like Evinrude parts? So far I seem to be able to find everything I need for the Fastwin. +Opinions by Yamaha experts greatly appreciated.","racerone said: + + + + Perhaps the start of -----"" you must throw it away and buy a new one "" mind set.-----I am going over a 1963 18 HP Johnson right now.-----Lots of used parts are available for those if you know where to look. + +Click to expand... + + +I have a fasttwin too. Not currently running right, but at full throttle it just flies","racerone said: + + + + Perhaps the start of -----"" you must throw it away and buy a new one "" mind set.-----I am going over a 1963 18 HP Johnson right now.-----Lots of used parts are available for those if you know where to look. + +Click to expand... + + +I have a fasttwin too. Not currently running right, but at full throttle it just flies","I've been through this nightmare before as well! I finally said to hell with it and bought custom gauges from Ocean Gauges[/URL] You can purchase any amount of gauges that you need and calibrate them for both your tach and tank size.""]Ocean Gauges.com They're really accurate and you can calibrate them to just about anything.[/URL]" +"So i picked up a boat with a 1992 Yamaha 6hp 6mshq and i replaced the thermostat. it was running on my stand and just stopped. fast forward a weekend later i took apart the carb and changed the fuel pumps diaphragms. i can see that the fuel pump is getting fuel at first but once its runnning the white inline filter starts to drain out and doesnt refill. so ive traced where it gets its vacuum from and its not blocked. when i try to start it now it generally needs a squirt of starting fluid and then i have to crank the handle hard against the throttle stop in neutral. if i actuate the choke in and out i can keep the motor running. kinda lost on this motor since i cant seem to figure it out. ive tested the CDI coils primary and secondary they allcheck out. also tried a new bulb in the fuel line, gas tank, tried a hanging gas tank as well. if you have any ideas let me know. please.","Some fuel parts are one way, you need to double check that the flow is in the correct direction.","Some fuel parts are one way, you need to double check that the flow is in the correct direction.","Same tank. + +Separate Racors, lines, and bulbs. + +Fuel Injected. + +Plugs not pulled. Engine idles smoothly and runs perfectly at all throttle settings. It only cuts out after prolonged ops at idle, like in a no wake zone." +"Hello, + +I recently bought a small skiff with a 2008 F20MSH on the back. It takes forever to get is started ... 5 minutes of pulling and a bunch of starting fluid is the only way to do it. Once I do get it running it revs really slow and putters out when I detrottle. I cleaned the carb and it starts better but will stop if I give it too much throttle, so in a fit of rage I bought a new knock-off carb online. With the new carb the engine starts with half a pull from cold and revs great, but it smokes like a fog machine. + +My hunch is that the original carb is set too lean and the new carb is set too rich. Does that sound like a reasonable diagnosis? I bought the boat from a widow who had not run it in a while and there was a bunch of crud in the original carb when I cleaned it ... but I am not sure why it would run so lean? Does anyone know if there is a setting I can change that might help? I see an adjustment screw that interacts with a plunger right next to the butterfly spring, as well as a brass screw in the body above the butterfly next to the baffle thing on top of the carb. Am I on the right track? + +Thanks, +Ian","Fuel enrichment for a cold start is provided by the Primestart component mounted on the carburetor. + +The plunger that you mention is for additional fuel enrichment when the motor is accelerated. + +If the motor is cold then the Primestart being deficient on additional fuel can adversely affect the ability of the motor to accelerate. + +I would suspect that the carburetor has not been thoroughly cleaned. Easier said than done. There are many orifices and passageways that can be difficult to get clean. Best bet is to use a heated ultrasonic cleaner with a good cleaning solution. With the carburetor being thoroughly dismantled. Rod out the orifices and passageways with soft copper wire. Flow water through the carburetor making sure that all passageways are free and clear. Pay good attention to float bowl. + +EPA controlled Yams can be overly fussy given the lean condition under which they run. You might want to use an oversize idle mixture jet to see if that improves the situation. + +Regarding the smoke with the replacement carburetor, what colour is the smoke? Should be black or gray.","Fuel enrichment for a cold start is provided by the Primestart component mounted on the carburetor. + +The plunger that you mention is for additional fuel enrichment when the motor is accelerated. + +If the motor is cold then the Primestart being deficient on additional fuel can adversely affect the ability of the motor to accelerate. + +I would suspect that the carburetor has not been thoroughly cleaned. Easier said than done. There are many orifices and passageways that can be difficult to get clean. Best bet is to use a heated ultrasonic cleaner with a good cleaning solution. With the carburetor being thoroughly dismantled. Rod out the orifices and passageways with soft copper wire. Flow water through the carburetor making sure that all passageways are free and clear. Pay good attention to float bowl. + +EPA controlled Yams can be overly fussy given the lean condition under which they run. You might want to use an oversize idle mixture jet to see if that improves the situation. + +Regarding the smoke with the replacement carburetor, what colour is the smoke? Should be black or gray.","boscoe said: + + + + If one cannot find the alternate ID label on the block, then the only numbers/letters that might help are those on the CDI assembly and those on the carburetors. Anything else will send someone down the rabbit hole. + +A 1996 C150TXRU uses CDI assembly part number 6G6-85540-00-00. Which further leads me to believe that your motor is the equivalent. + +It is possible that someone ahead of you installed the wrong trim senders. Which may fool you into thinking that the corrects ones are wrong because they don't look the same. + + + + + +Click to expand... + +I’m almost certain they are the original senders from known history of ownership. Only 2 previous owners. + +The sender I bought is actually the part number for the above engine. Definitely doesn’t fit. Thank you anyway for your attempt to help me." +"Hello, + +I recently bought a small skiff with a 2008 F20MSH on the back. It takes forever to get is started ... 5 minutes of pulling and a bunch of starting fluid is the only way to do it. Once I do get it running it revs really slow and putters out when I detrottle. I cleaned the carb and it starts better but will stop if I give it too much throttle, so in a fit of rage I bought a new knock-off carb online. With the new carb the engine starts with half a pull from cold and revs great, but it smokes like a fog machine. + +My hunch is that the original carb is set too lean and the new carb is set too rich. Does that sound like a reasonable diagnosis? I bought the boat from a widow who had not run it in a while and there was a bunch of crud in the original carb when I cleaned it ... but I am not sure why it would run so lean? Does anyone know if there is a setting I can change that might help? I see an adjustment screw that interacts with a plunger right next to the butterfly spring, as well as a brass screw in the body above the butterfly next to the baffle thing on top of the carb. Am I on the right track? + +Thanks, +Ian","Boscoe, + +Thanks for the reply. I cleaned the original carb but just with a spray can of ""carb cleaner"" ... I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner this morning and will give it a shot. + +The smoke with the replacement carb is white or light gray, and it smells like gasoline. Does that sound like it is running rich, or something else? Any idea on how to change it? Ideally at the end of this I will have two working carbs, instead of one with too little fuel and one with too much (or whatever the issue is with the replacement). + +Thanks again for everyone's help. + +Ian","Boscoe, + +Thanks for the reply. I cleaned the original carb but just with a spray can of ""carb cleaner"" ... I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner this morning and will give it a shot. + +The smoke with the replacement carb is white or light gray, and it smells like gasoline. Does that sound like it is running rich, or something else? Any idea on how to change it? Ideally at the end of this I will have two working carbs, instead of one with too little fuel and one with too much (or whatever the issue is with the replacement). + +Thanks again for everyone's help. + +Ian","I believe the connection between the wheel and the stern is all hydraulic, not a wire. + +Click to expand... + + +Nope, the rotary helm is plainly visible, you've got cable steerin',.... + +At the transom, the cable end goes through the aluminum tube, pull the cable outa the tube, 'n clean the corrosion outa there, then grease the 'ell outa it,..... + +While the cable is disconnected, try turnin' the drive by hand, to see how freely it moves,...." +"Hello, + +I recently bought a small skiff with a 2008 F20MSH on the back. It takes forever to get is started ... 5 minutes of pulling and a bunch of starting fluid is the only way to do it. Once I do get it running it revs really slow and putters out when I detrottle. I cleaned the carb and it starts better but will stop if I give it too much throttle, so in a fit of rage I bought a new knock-off carb online. With the new carb the engine starts with half a pull from cold and revs great, but it smokes like a fog machine. + +My hunch is that the original carb is set too lean and the new carb is set too rich. Does that sound like a reasonable diagnosis? I bought the boat from a widow who had not run it in a while and there was a bunch of crud in the original carb when I cleaned it ... but I am not sure why it would run so lean? Does anyone know if there is a setting I can change that might help? I see an adjustment screw that interacts with a plunger right next to the butterfly spring, as well as a brass screw in the body above the butterfly next to the baffle thing on top of the carb. Am I on the right track? + +Thanks, +Ian","Gray, gray/blackish smoke generally means the motor is running too rich.","Gray, gray/blackish smoke generally means the motor is running too rich.",if your vent is coming out of the top of the tank then the tank will be full before it leaks gas thru the vent...same as before...however if you fill an extension above the tank(like your new fuel fill) then when you top off the tank and fill the extension you may get some leak from the vent if the end of the vent tube is below the tank...just dont overfill and you should be ok... +"I have 1987 Yamaha v6 200 HP with a 703 control. When I lift the warm up lever for my initial start up, it allows the engine to rev way to high. If I don't use the lever it won't start. After the initial start, it starts with a tap of the key. Can I adjust the lever to prevent such high RPMS. If so how?","That is normal, they all do it, it's the way the internal linkage is designed","That is normal, they all do it, it's the way the internal linkage is designed",All good points - thanks. I never considered what happens once the hubs and bearings cool. That could explain the corrosion inside the BB hub. Papyson - never seen BB's with relief holes. Don't mind drilling my own in these old ones. Do you have a guess on what diameter? +"I have 1987 Yamaha v6 200 HP with a 703 control. When I lift the warm up lever for my initial start up, it allows the engine to rev way to high. If I don't use the lever it won't start. After the initial start, it starts with a tap of the key. Can I adjust the lever to prevent such high RPMS. If so how?",Pull up the lever half way and see what happens.,Pull up the lever half way and see what happens.,Fiberglass boat. I would suggest wet sanding and if that does not come close to making the scratches vanish then I would go with a gel coat repair kit. +"What does this toggle switch do on the starter panel for a Yamaha 60hp 2-stroke? I've never used it and the motor starts fine. And when I press in the ignition to operate the choke, nothing happens. And the motor starts without the kill-switch-lanyard connected. Are these issues all related?","Toggle is choke, lift with key on and choke should activate. If kill switch doesn't operate then it has been bypassed for some reason.","Toggle is choke, lift with key on and choke should activate. If kill switch doesn't operate then it has been bypassed for some reason.", +"What does this toggle switch do on the starter panel for a Yamaha 60hp 2-stroke? I've never used it and the motor starts fine. And when I press in the ignition to operate the choke, nothing happens. And the motor starts without the kill-switch-lanyard connected. Are these issues all related?",I have that switch also. Now I know what it does.,I have that switch also. Now I know what it does.,Especially when your motor was underwater for a week. How can you possibly expect it to run? +"Hi everybody, this is my first post. I have royally messed up. I snapped my shift rod at the Lower part in the gearbox. The rod came out without the shifter part at the bottom. Any idea's how to get it out? Tried turning it upside down while using air pressure. Nope. Can't find a detailed breakdown of that section.",?----What exactly is broken.-----The shift rod screws out of the lower unit.------You have removed the pivot pin ?----You have removed the driveshaft ?----Any pictures of the broken shift rod ?,?----What exactly is broken.-----The shift rod screws out of the lower unit.------You have removed the pivot pin ?----You have removed the driveshaft ?----Any pictures of the broken shift rod ?,"deejaycee_2000 said: + + + + Is your cav plate in line with the bottom of your keel? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes. But the engine height isn't a factor in this case bc the prop will ventilate before the intake loses flow over it. If that's what you were thinking. Before you tear it down again I'd get out and run it as I suggested, high rpms with engine down. The result will narrow down the cause." +"Hi everybody, this is my first post. I have royally messed up. I snapped my shift rod at the Lower part in the gearbox. The rod came out without the shifter part at the bottom. Any idea's how to get it out? Tried turning it upside down while using air pressure. Nope. Can't find a detailed breakdown of that section.","racerone said: + + + + ?----What exactly is broken.-----The shift rod screws out of the lower unit.------You have removed the pivot pin ?----You have removed the driveshaft ?----Any pictures of the broken shift rod ? + +Click to expand... + + +I was disconnecting where the rod comes together between the upper and lower unit. I put too much pressure on the Lower rod and snapped it off in the Lower gearbox. Some of the rod ends are square where it presses the plunger for the clutch dog. Mine seems to be round but it changes gears by pulling the rod up and down not rotating. I don't know how the gearbox end of the clutch rod comes out. Am I going to have to pull the prop shaft to get to it?","racerone said: + + + + ?----What exactly is broken.-----The shift rod screws out of the lower unit.------You have removed the pivot pin ?----You have removed the driveshaft ?----Any pictures of the broken shift rod ? + +Click to expand... + + +I was disconnecting where the rod comes together between the upper and lower unit. I put too much pressure on the Lower rod and snapped it off in the Lower gearbox. Some of the rod ends are square where it presses the plunger for the clutch dog. Mine seems to be round but it changes gears by pulling the rod up and down not rotating. I don't know how the gearbox end of the clutch rod comes out. Am I going to have to pull the prop shaft to get to it?","What is the position of the accelerator cam and accelerator rod lever while in neutral? Sounds like something somewhere is not correctly installed. Since you have twins, compare linkage to the good engine." +"Greetings! + +I'm in search of a Top Cowl/ cross reference for a Yamaha model# 30SD 6J8 S 104510 +Part # for the cowl is 6J8-42610-W1-EK",Your location ?,Your location ?,Not really sure. I got the motor pretty cheap from a guy that couldn't get it running and I'm just trying to figure it out. +"Greetings! + +I'm in search of a Top Cowl/ cross reference for a Yamaha model# 30SD 6J8 S 104510 +Part # for the cowl is 6J8-42610-W1-EK","Navarre, Florida","Navarre, Florida","You will probably get a better response from the Mercury Outboard Forum. Go to the top right of this page, click on ""Forum Home"", and click on Mercury/Mariner Outboards. Post your issue there. Be sure to include model of your engine." +"Greetings! + +I'm in search of a Top Cowl/ cross reference for a Yamaha model# 30SD 6J8 S 104510 +Part # for the cowl is 6J8-42610-W1-EK",Try on E-bay.,Try on E-bay.,"its a carb model, 4 carbs. 2 have been changed last year, but the other 2 dident need chaning acording too the service shop. + +i think maybe theres something whit the throttle cabel, because it has been another engien on this boat before, a 25hk mercury. and i just mounted a 50 yamaha, and i did not adjust the throttle cabel..... + +since the boat and anything is totaly new too me, how do i find out about the choke? if it is automatic choke, or manuel? + +i read somewhere that idle RPM on this engien should be around 800? +and iv been told not too drive whit the boat untill thats fixed because i can brake the gearing when i put it in gear on that high rpm?" +1994 c75 has 90 lbs compression on all 3 cylinders. Is this too low? Cant get motor to rev over 3k under load. Wondering if im wasting my time with this motor???,Sounds like it is not running on all cylinders.------Check for STRONG spark on all leads.,Sounds like it is not running on all cylinders.------Check for STRONG spark on all leads.,"thank's any way but i fixed it +bill" +1994 c75 has 90 lbs compression on all 3 cylinders. Is this too low? Cant get motor to rev over 3k under load. Wondering if im wasting my time with this motor???,Thanks for reply. Yes i checkd for big spark. I think we hav figured it out. The plastic pick up tube in tank had a crack in it up near the top. Its running a whole lot better but it still not exactly right. It wants to bog a couple times when giving WOT. It will finally take off after few times of working lever back an forth. When loading on trlr i could not get it to open up enough to load it. So we took it home and my buddy went thru all carbs an said they lookd like they were new. We checkd timing idling on muffs and WOT out on lake and timing is good. He did find it has bad rectifier. Could this make motor run bad? Thanks again,Thanks for reply. Yes i checkd for big spark. I think we hav figured it out. The plastic pick up tube in tank had a crack in it up near the top. Its running a whole lot better but it still not exactly right. It wants to bog a couple times when giving WOT. It will finally take off after few times of working lever back an forth. When loading on trlr i could not get it to open up enough to load it. So we took it home and my buddy went thru all carbs an said they lookd like they were new. We checkd timing idling on muffs and WOT out on lake and timing is good. He did find it has bad rectifier. Could this make motor run bad? Thanks again,"Output from the pulser coil and the CPS. + +Output from the CDI to the ignition coils. +Loaded and unloaded. Engine running. +Usually tested with a test lead to avoid piercing wire insulation." +"Hey guys, +My 09 Yamaha 25 wont go into reverse and when its it's in neutral it goes forward. I've checked the shift linkage and it's fine. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks in advance.","Disconnect the shift link, manually push the lower shift shaft down whilst turning the prop until it goes into reverse. Then shift control into reverse and then reconnect shift shaft","Disconnect the shift link, manually push the lower shift shaft down whilst turning the prop until it goes into reverse. Then shift control into reverse and then reconnect shift shaft","crabmann said: + + + + I looked at your website and it doesnot show the dust seal at the top of the tilt rod as a separate part. I have called the parts houses and they say I have to buy theassembly. What I am looking for is someone who has figured out aworkaround for this $5 part rather than the $525 assembly. A secondquestion might be that if I remove the screw in the bottom of thepiston can the piston assembly be removed from the rod so the cap canslide off? + +Click to expand... + + +Pretty sure I bought one for my '98 C60 last year. I don't see yours being any different. Do you have a link to the diagram you are looking at? I can try to confirm which one I bought." +"Hey guys, +My 09 Yamaha 25 wont go into reverse and when its it's in neutral it goes forward. I've checked the shift linkage and it's fine. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks in advance.","iang6766 said: + + + + Disconnect the shift link, manually push the lower shift shaft down whilst turning the prop until it goes into reverse. Then shift control into reverse and then reconnect shift shaft + +Click to expand... + + +So I tried that and the shift rod wont stay in reverse when I try to push it down.","iang6766 said: + + + + Disconnect the shift link, manually push the lower shift shaft down whilst turning the prop until it goes into reverse. Then shift control into reverse and then reconnect shift shaft + +Click to expand... + + +So I tried that and the shift rod wont stay in reverse when I try to push it down.",starts with jumper from positive battery to positive on coil. Will only shut down when jumper is removed! This is(according to your pictures) a corbra drive. +"Hey guys, +My 09 Yamaha 25 wont go into reverse and when its it's in neutral it goes forward. I've checked the shift linkage and it's fine. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks in advance.","You are not pushing it all the way, you must use a fair amount of force and turn the prop slowly at the same time and it will lock in reverse. Just confirm it was fine before you pulled it apart","You are not pushing it all the way, you must use a fair amount of force and turn the prop slowly at the same time and it will lock in reverse. Just confirm it was fine before you pulled it apart","Ayuh,.... It sounds Ok, but pictures would help,....." +"Hey guys, +My 09 Yamaha 25 wont go into reverse and when its it's in neutral it goes forward. I've checked the shift linkage and it's fine. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks in advance.","Mack11 said: + + + + So I tried that and the shift rod wont stay in reverse when I try to push it down. + +Click to expand... + + +Got neutral to not engage but it wanting to still slip when trying to go into reverse. I'm thinking it may be a bad clutch dog","Mack11 said: + + + + So I tried that and the shift rod wont stay in reverse when I try to push it down. + +Click to expand... + + +Got neutral to not engage but it wanting to still slip when trying to go into reverse. I'm thinking it may be a bad clutch dog",Time and sync carbs after reinstall? +"I just bought and hooked up a 1987 200hp. When I accelerate to about 4000 rpm the control clicks and locks like a cruise control. If I want to decelerate I have to depress the shift button to pull the throttle back. Is this normal? I don't much care for it. Is there some way to deactivate it? + +Thanks","There is something not right, it should not do this, there is no such function on any control box. I am guessing someone has had it apart and assembled it incorrectly.","There is something not right, it should not do this, there is no such function on any control box. I am guessing someone has had it apart and assembled it incorrectly.","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,... Over crankin' don't cause Corrosion,... + +Water Does... + +Click to expand... + + +Agreed. +Water is getting to the starter from somewhere. You need to check for rain water or spray from you drive engines, stuffing boxes if inboards or the genset it self leaking sea water. The bad ground will burn up your starter. Acts just like a weak battery and will over heat the starter." +I bought a new key west 219fs with a new F175XA on. We were only able to put 9 hours on the engine. We are preparing for storage over the winter out of water in PA. One yamaha tech said change the oil and lower unit oil now. One said just drain the fuel out of the motor and wait until 20 hours to change the oils. One said change the oils now and at 20 hours. Any other suggestions?,"Just do what your selling dealer service manager recommends, then the warranty stands","Just do what your selling dealer service manager recommends, then the warranty stands",does the meter peg or just read full? +I bought a new key west 219fs with a new F175XA on. We were only able to put 9 hours on the engine. We are preparing for storage over the winter out of water in PA. One yamaha tech said change the oil and lower unit oil now. One said just drain the fuel out of the motor and wait until 20 hours to change the oils. One said change the oils now and at 20 hours. Any other suggestions?,Change the oil now.,Change the oil now.,"Good advice here so far, and with a rotten transom to have no rot in the deck and stringers would be very rare, since they usually go first. If you're going deep enough to replace a transom, you need to remove the top cap and check the floor out well to. With the top cap off you can get to the transom from the inside without disturbing the outer skin of the boat. I've replaced several transoms over the years and have never had a rotten transom without rotten wood other places as well. As racerone said.....Do it right the first time. Some pictures of the project would help alot on detail repair help." +"I have a 2006 yamaha 8 hp.that I am putting a new impellar in I've removed the 4 nuts on lower unit and disconnected the shift linkage but I can't get the lower unit to drop down, I've pulled,twisted and even hit with a rubber mallet but can't get it to drop any suggestions","You need to disconnect the shift shaft. Half way down the trunk on the starboard side the is larve rubber grommet, remove it, shift into reverse and inside the hole you will a 10mm bolt head holding a two piece connecter, loosen it sufficiently till the lower until slides out. I must warn you that putting it back is a challenge if you have not done it before.","You need to disconnect the shift shaft. Half way down the trunk on the starboard side the is larve rubber grommet, remove it, shift into reverse and inside the hole you will a 10mm bolt head holding a two piece connecter, loosen it sufficiently till the lower until slides out. I must warn you that putting it back is a challenge if you have not done it before.","Sorry for not mentionimg type of engine, it's a 1993 50hp evinrude. The problem I am having is getting the trim rod cylinder back into the cylinder housing after I replaced the seals and o-rings. Also just wondered would the cold weather have anything to do with this issue?" +"Looking at a 2004 50ETLRC outboard. Was wondering if someone could tell me the correct part numbers for a binnacle control and multifunction tach that are compatible with this model year? + +Thanks. +Greg","By binnacle control I presume you mean a top mounted control box. Model is 704. Standard and Premium models are available. In addition to the control box you will need the ten pin main engine harness, a key switch and control cables. + +The tachometer is a 6Y5-8350T-XX-00. You will need some harnesses to make it work. + +Most all of the rigging stuff can be seen in here. https://yamahaoutboards.com/catalog/2018/MRP/index.html#page=1","By binnacle control I presume you mean a top mounted control box. Model is 704. Standard and Premium models are available. In addition to the control box you will need the ten pin main engine harness, a key switch and control cables. + +The tachometer is a 6Y5-8350T-XX-00. You will need some harnesses to make it work. + +Most all of the rigging stuff can be seen in here. https://yamahaoutboards.com/catalog/2018/MRP/index.html#page=1",Do yourself a favor and get at least a six station fuse block with a ground bar and rewire all the accys. Get some 8g wire black and red tinned marine grade from the battery to the fuse block and fuse the red at the battery. then you can easily add accys right now if the fish finder is not fused at the battery that wire could light up and make a real mess of your loop. +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 115 4 strokeF115TLRC. It idles great. Press the button in on the shifter and rev the throttle, the RPMs jumps up to 6K. Changed the water/fuel separator filter, fuel filter,all the fuel lines, new spark plugs, etc... When I have the boat in the waterand take off, it planes out. When I throttle up to 38-3900 RPMs it is okay.When I give it more throttle it acts like it starves for fuel and the RPMsstart to drop and I start losing speed. Anyone experience this with theiroutboard? Checked the gas in the fuel filter looked clean. The fuel in the water separator was clear. Appreciate any help.","I had the sameproblem with my '02 F115. You have a fuel restriction somewhere... It run'sfine until you try to feed serious fuel under load and then the problems start.The fact that it will rev to 6K in neutral means nothing as there's no load onthe engine and you can reach 6,000 RPM with minimal true fuel flow as you justgive it a shot of throttle to get it there. Check your fuel flow starting from the gastank back. I'd suggest you pull the fuel line that exits from the fuel filterthat is under the cowling of the engine at the left rear of the engine. Stick atowel in there and squeeze your primer bulb a few times... with each squeezeyou should see a significant, unrestricted shot of fuel squirt easily out ofthat outlet each time you squeeze the primer bulb. If not, replace the filter in that littlehousing and see if it then squirts with each squeeze. If it is stillrestricted, you could have a clogged fuel pick up line in your fuel tank. Somepick-up lines in fuel tanks have a filter on the end of them where they sit onthe bottom of the fuel tanks. If you have a filter on the end of your pick-upline in your gas tank, pull it out or cut it off & toss it. They causeproblems and never should have been put there with all the other filters inline. That should eliminate any potentialproblem with flow from the gas tank to the outlet on that fuel filter under theengine cowling. You replaced the fuel/water so that shouldn't be the problem.Hopefully, that will fix it. If not, your problem is probably where mine wasand it will be in one of two places. One is easy (clogged fuel injectors), theother is not (the filter that sits on the bottom of the high pressure fuel pumpin the VTS tank that is BEHIND the intake and manifold pretty deep inside theengine. Pull the fuel injectors and send them to Fuel Injector Man (www.fuelinjectorman.com) (thecheapest place I found that cleans injectors). He replaces all gaskets,o-rings, the internal filters in the injectors, cleans the injectors withultrasonic and sends them back to you sealed with all the old parts so you knowthey were changed as well as before and after flow and spray readings from hisequipment. Put the injectors back in (put a little oil on the o-rings on theinjectors first) and see if that fixes it. If that doesn't fix it... you'llneed a good set of tools and about 5 hours to get in and out (the first time)to get to that filter on the bottom of the High Pressure Fuel Pump that sitsinside the VST (vapor separator tank). The Yamaha engineer who put that filterthere was an idiot. The filter itself is about $30 but getting to it is a PITA.It is a tiny little assembly and the filter is a little micro screen about3/8"" across. You'll pay serious money to have it changed at a Yamahadealer so grab your tools or someone who has them, a shade tree and somebeverages. The job isn't horrible but there is one bolt (I believe it is thelowest on manifold) that will take a great deal of time playing around withvarious ratchet extensions and such until you find the right combo that works. That one bolt will take you a great deal oftime as it did me. Again, wonderfuldesign. If that's where you end up, Google ""Yamaha 115 VST filterchange"" and such as I did until you find instructions and photos posted byothers who've had the pleasure of replacing that friggin’ thing. Because it isjust a screen in a little assembly, you could probably blow it out and be finebut for $30 for a replacement... If I'm going to spend 5 hours getting to itand back out I'll spend the $30 to have a new one. There is also a crazy shapedgasket on top of the VST housing that costs about $45. It is recommended to be replaced when you goin there. I didn't replace mine and itworked fine but I did pull it, cleaned everything up well with carb cleaner(not the gasket), and put all back together without any problems since. Thatlittle filter on the bottom of the high pressure fuel pump can often be cloggedby gummy messes thanks to the crap ethanol fuel that has been forced on us or byfibers from that filter under the housing on the left rear of the enginefalling off over time if it isn't changed at regular intervals. Hopefully itisn't that filter in the VST tank but if it is... take comfort in knowing thatothers have gone there before and saved themselves $700+ in labor to replace a$30 filter. +Lastly, If youare using gas blended with ethanol as I do as I refuse to pay for 100% gas thatis available at many marinas... use the green marine Sta-Bil ALL THE TIME. Not just for storage but ALL THE TIME. The detergents in it help to keep ethanolrelated problems to a minimum.","I had the sameproblem with my '02 F115. You have a fuel restriction somewhere... It run'sfine until you try to feed serious fuel under load and then the problems start.The fact that it will rev to 6K in neutral means nothing as there's no load onthe engine and you can reach 6,000 RPM with minimal true fuel flow as you justgive it a shot of throttle to get it there. Check your fuel flow starting from the gastank back. I'd suggest you pull the fuel line that exits from the fuel filterthat is under the cowling of the engine at the left rear of the engine. Stick atowel in there and squeeze your primer bulb a few times... with each squeezeyou should see a significant, unrestricted shot of fuel squirt easily out ofthat outlet each time you squeeze the primer bulb. If not, replace the filter in that littlehousing and see if it then squirts with each squeeze. If it is stillrestricted, you could have a clogged fuel pick up line in your fuel tank. Somepick-up lines in fuel tanks have a filter on the end of them where they sit onthe bottom of the fuel tanks. If you have a filter on the end of your pick-upline in your gas tank, pull it out or cut it off & toss it. They causeproblems and never should have been put there with all the other filters inline. That should eliminate any potentialproblem with flow from the gas tank to the outlet on that fuel filter under theengine cowling. You replaced the fuel/water so that shouldn't be the problem.Hopefully, that will fix it. If not, your problem is probably where mine wasand it will be in one of two places. One is easy (clogged fuel injectors), theother is not (the filter that sits on the bottom of the high pressure fuel pumpin the VTS tank that is BEHIND the intake and manifold pretty deep inside theengine. Pull the fuel injectors and send them to Fuel Injector Man (www.fuelinjectorman.com) (thecheapest place I found that cleans injectors). He replaces all gaskets,o-rings, the internal filters in the injectors, cleans the injectors withultrasonic and sends them back to you sealed with all the old parts so you knowthey were changed as well as before and after flow and spray readings from hisequipment. Put the injectors back in (put a little oil on the o-rings on theinjectors first) and see if that fixes it. If that doesn't fix it... you'llneed a good set of tools and about 5 hours to get in and out (the first time)to get to that filter on the bottom of the High Pressure Fuel Pump that sitsinside the VST (vapor separator tank). The Yamaha engineer who put that filterthere was an idiot. The filter itself is about $30 but getting to it is a PITA.It is a tiny little assembly and the filter is a little micro screen about3/8"" across. You'll pay serious money to have it changed at a Yamahadealer so grab your tools or someone who has them, a shade tree and somebeverages. The job isn't horrible but there is one bolt (I believe it is thelowest on manifold) that will take a great deal of time playing around withvarious ratchet extensions and such until you find the right combo that works. That one bolt will take you a great deal oftime as it did me. Again, wonderfuldesign. If that's where you end up, Google ""Yamaha 115 VST filterchange"" and such as I did until you find instructions and photos posted byothers who've had the pleasure of replacing that friggin’ thing. Because it isjust a screen in a little assembly, you could probably blow it out and be finebut for $30 for a replacement... If I'm going to spend 5 hours getting to itand back out I'll spend the $30 to have a new one. There is also a crazy shapedgasket on top of the VST housing that costs about $45. It is recommended to be replaced when you goin there. I didn't replace mine and itworked fine but I did pull it, cleaned everything up well with carb cleaner(not the gasket), and put all back together without any problems since. Thatlittle filter on the bottom of the high pressure fuel pump can often be cloggedby gummy messes thanks to the crap ethanol fuel that has been forced on us or byfibers from that filter under the housing on the left rear of the enginefalling off over time if it isn't changed at regular intervals. Hopefully itisn't that filter in the VST tank but if it is... take comfort in knowing thatothers have gone there before and saved themselves $700+ in labor to replace a$30 filter. +Lastly, If youare using gas blended with ethanol as I do as I refuse to pay for 100% gas thatis available at many marinas... use the green marine Sta-Bil ALL THE TIME. Not just for storage but ALL THE TIME. The detergents in it help to keep ethanolrelated problems to a minimum.","I don't have a meter to check, I had a mechanic try to isolate, but he was not able to. I can ease the throttle after it is warm and get to full throttle and seems to do ok but sitting still at idle when cold I have to let it idle a while. If I raise the idle to 2500 rpm it will stay there for a minute and then stall out." +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 115 4 strokeF115TLRC. It idles great. Press the button in on the shifter and rev the throttle, the RPMs jumps up to 6K. Changed the water/fuel separator filter, fuel filter,all the fuel lines, new spark plugs, etc... When I have the boat in the waterand take off, it planes out. When I throttle up to 38-3900 RPMs it is okay.When I give it more throttle it acts like it starves for fuel and the RPMsstart to drop and I start losing speed. Anyone experience this with theiroutboard? Checked the gas in the fuel filter looked clean. The fuel in the water separator was clear. Appreciate any help.","Thanks for the response. I apologize for not responding sooner. I pulled the intake manifold unit off, not that tough of a job, disassemble the VST tank, checked the filter on the bottom of the pump motor, some debree, but nothing that would restrick the fuel flow. Pulled spark plugs to see if any were gas fouled. All were dry which indicates none of the injectors are leaking. Checked the inline filter that goes from the fuel pump assy to the VST tank, clear. Made sure all fuel lines are clear. Checked the pickup in the fuel tank, not clogged. I've changed all the other filters. No difference in motor performance. Now looking at some of the parts diagrams on line I notice a couple of other parts that I think maybe causing a problem. After pulling up some parts websites I notice there is a Pressure regulator. It is under the FUEL INJECTION NOZZLE category item # 9. Then looking under the FUEL 1 category #14, fuel pump assy, there are two diaphrams. And then under the INTAKE 2 category, #13 is a filter assy that mounts under the fuel control valve assy. Could someone tell me if they have experience any problems with these items? I would appreciate any help. +Thanks","Thanks for the response. I apologize for not responding sooner. I pulled the intake manifold unit off, not that tough of a job, disassemble the VST tank, checked the filter on the bottom of the pump motor, some debree, but nothing that would restrick the fuel flow. Pulled spark plugs to see if any were gas fouled. All were dry which indicates none of the injectors are leaking. Checked the inline filter that goes from the fuel pump assy to the VST tank, clear. Made sure all fuel lines are clear. Checked the pickup in the fuel tank, not clogged. I've changed all the other filters. No difference in motor performance. Now looking at some of the parts diagrams on line I notice a couple of other parts that I think maybe causing a problem. After pulling up some parts websites I notice there is a Pressure regulator. It is under the FUEL INJECTION NOZZLE category item # 9. Then looking under the FUEL 1 category #14, fuel pump assy, there are two diaphrams. And then under the INTAKE 2 category, #13 is a filter assy that mounts under the fuel control valve assy. Could someone tell me if they have experience any problems with these items? I would appreciate any help. +Thanks","On muffs, there is no back pressure. If you set the idle on muffs fuel will not be enough to keep the engine running in the water. Quick fix which you asked for in a pinch... crank up the idle RPM on muffs and then hit the water. See if that works." +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 115 4 strokeF115TLRC. It idles great. Press the button in on the shifter and rev the throttle, the RPMs jumps up to 6K. Changed the water/fuel separator filter, fuel filter,all the fuel lines, new spark plugs, etc... When I have the boat in the waterand take off, it planes out. When I throttle up to 38-3900 RPMs it is okay.When I give it more throttle it acts like it starves for fuel and the RPMsstart to drop and I start losing speed. Anyone experience this with theiroutboard? Checked the gas in the fuel filter looked clean. The fuel in the water separator was clear. Appreciate any help.","I made a mistake. The spark plugs were dry, therefore the injectors are NOT leaking. Sorry for the wrong info.","I made a mistake. The spark plugs were dry, therefore the injectors are NOT leaking. Sorry for the wrong info.","Hi boscoe, +I have the number + engine numbering +40BR 676S 25080 +(40AM/40AE/40AEM) +do I need anything else +apart from stator plate?? + +tamsbairn +(Stewart) + +https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mariner-...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0" +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 115 4 strokeF115TLRC. It idles great. Press the button in on the shifter and rev the throttle, the RPMs jumps up to 6K. Changed the water/fuel separator filter, fuel filter,all the fuel lines, new spark plugs, etc... When I have the boat in the waterand take off, it planes out. When I throttle up to 38-3900 RPMs it is okay.When I give it more throttle it acts like it starves for fuel and the RPMsstart to drop and I start losing speed. Anyone experience this with theiroutboard? Checked the gas in the fuel filter looked clean. The fuel in the water separator was clear. Appreciate any help.","Injectors may not be leaking but they could be clogged or restricted. + +Ironic... firstday taking the boat out this memorial weekend for the season and I again havethe same problem as you (which I had 2 years ago). Ran fine for about 1/2 hourand then became starved for fuel. Can only reach 2700 RPM and push the throttlefurther she gets a bit deep throated. Vibration and fuel flow rattles all kinds of gunk lose beginning of the seasonso I know it’s another restriction in filters somewhere caused by the 1[SUP]st[/SUP]running. So, I am starting the sameprocess again as I did 2 years ago. I've pulled the fuel injectors and will besending them out for cleaning as I recommended you try in my prior post. Atleast your VST filter is cleaned and you know that isn't the problem. Thepressure regulator you mention... I've looked at it and researched as well inmy past experience. I read that if it looks to be in good shape with nocorrosion on the top/outside etc. it should be good. I believe some models hadproblems with water draining under the top of the cowling that would drop onand rust the top of it but mine looked good so I wasn't about to pay $220 for afuel pressure regulator on a ghost hunt. Pull the fuel injectors and send them outfor cleaning to Fuel Injector Man (where mine are headed this week). I'm alsoordering a new VST filter because I won't put cleaned injectors in if there's aprob with my VST filter so I'll go in and out and replace that before I put myinjectors back in. If you want to try it, you can try to clean/clear theinjectors yourself. There are lots of youtube videos on how to clean themyourself that require screwing around a great deal... I just bought a few cansof carb cleaner, gently held the injector in a vice and attached 12V +/- to thefeeds. You'll hear the injector click open and then you BACK BLAST through thespray nozzles NOT FROM BACK. You want to drive any junk out the back and out ofthe filters, not ram it from the back up through the filters and into into thespray nozzles. I believe a short 3/8"" ID piece of hose about 3"" longwill fit perfectly over the nozzle housing. Then stick the thin jet spray tubefrom the carb cleaner can into the 3/8"" hose and crimp the hose off tightwith a pliers to hold some pressure while you back spray. Blast away. Gothrough all 4 injectors and then put them back in and see if that helps theproblem. It may fix it but if it at least gives you a significant improvement,you prob found the problem and can then send all out and have them fullycleaned with filters replaced. Let me know how it goes. Fun Fun. Rule of life... Never have more toys than you care to take care of!","Injectors may not be leaking but they could be clogged or restricted. + +Ironic... firstday taking the boat out this memorial weekend for the season and I again havethe same problem as you (which I had 2 years ago). Ran fine for about 1/2 hourand then became starved for fuel. Can only reach 2700 RPM and push the throttlefurther she gets a bit deep throated. Vibration and fuel flow rattles all kinds of gunk lose beginning of the seasonso I know it’s another restriction in filters somewhere caused by the 1[SUP]st[/SUP]running. So, I am starting the sameprocess again as I did 2 years ago. I've pulled the fuel injectors and will besending them out for cleaning as I recommended you try in my prior post. Atleast your VST filter is cleaned and you know that isn't the problem. Thepressure regulator you mention... I've looked at it and researched as well inmy past experience. I read that if it looks to be in good shape with nocorrosion on the top/outside etc. it should be good. I believe some models hadproblems with water draining under the top of the cowling that would drop onand rust the top of it but mine looked good so I wasn't about to pay $220 for afuel pressure regulator on a ghost hunt. Pull the fuel injectors and send them outfor cleaning to Fuel Injector Man (where mine are headed this week). I'm alsoordering a new VST filter because I won't put cleaned injectors in if there's aprob with my VST filter so I'll go in and out and replace that before I put myinjectors back in. If you want to try it, you can try to clean/clear theinjectors yourself. There are lots of youtube videos on how to clean themyourself that require screwing around a great deal... I just bought a few cansof carb cleaner, gently held the injector in a vice and attached 12V +/- to thefeeds. You'll hear the injector click open and then you BACK BLAST through thespray nozzles NOT FROM BACK. You want to drive any junk out the back and out ofthe filters, not ram it from the back up through the filters and into into thespray nozzles. I believe a short 3/8"" ID piece of hose about 3"" longwill fit perfectly over the nozzle housing. Then stick the thin jet spray tubefrom the carb cleaner can into the 3/8"" hose and crimp the hose off tightwith a pliers to hold some pressure while you back spray. Blast away. Gothrough all 4 injectors and then put them back in and see if that helps theproblem. It may fix it but if it at least gives you a significant improvement,you prob found the problem and can then send all out and have them fullycleaned with filters replaced. Let me know how it goes. Fun Fun. Rule of life... Never have more toys than you care to take care of!",Ok....I took all three off and used two different meters- one analog and one digital. The primary readings when I connected black and black white wires all gene me a complete circuit—-same reading as if I had connected probe ends. Secondary did the opposite—-no reading at all. I tried various ohm scales and still got the same results. What the heck am I doing wrong? +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 115 4 strokeF115TLRC. It idles great. Press the button in on the shifter and rev the throttle, the RPMs jumps up to 6K. Changed the water/fuel separator filter, fuel filter,all the fuel lines, new spark plugs, etc... When I have the boat in the waterand take off, it planes out. When I throttle up to 38-3900 RPMs it is okay.When I give it more throttle it acts like it starves for fuel and the RPMsstart to drop and I start losing speed. Anyone experience this with theiroutboard? Checked the gas in the fuel filter looked clean. The fuel in the water separator was clear. Appreciate any help.","OH... before you put the Injectors back into the fuel rail... pull the rail and balst it with carb cleaner as well. With the lower fuel line off that feeds the rail off, turn the key several times to the on position and back off to flush that well or squeeze the fuel bulb a few times to manually flush that line just in case there is gunk in there.","OH... before you put the Injectors back into the fuel rail... pull the rail and balst it with carb cleaner as well. With the lower fuel line off that feeds the rail off, turn the key several times to the on position and back off to flush that well or squeeze the fuel bulb a few times to manually flush that line just in case there is gunk in there.",do you have any 115 volt plugs on the boat that are two wire and ungrounded?you are getting feedback through some other device is my guess...its a guess because i dont know the complete wiring... +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 115 4 strokeF115TLRC. It idles great. Press the button in on the shifter and rev the throttle, the RPMs jumps up to 6K. Changed the water/fuel separator filter, fuel filter,all the fuel lines, new spark plugs, etc... When I have the boat in the waterand take off, it planes out. When I throttle up to 38-3900 RPMs it is okay.When I give it more throttle it acts like it starves for fuel and the RPMsstart to drop and I start losing speed. Anyone experience this with theiroutboard? Checked the gas in the fuel filter looked clean. The fuel in the water separator was clear. Appreciate any help.","I have the same problem on my 2008 F115. Changed the fuel filter. Changed the VST filter. It's not that hard I put a drop sheet underneath to catch anything that might fall out. Glad I did because there are spacers on the VST canister mount that fell out. I stuffed rags around the base of the motor so nothing could fall in there. Took lots of pictures. I have read that you can just remove the screen from the VST filter. I decided to put a new $30 VST filter in and changed the fuel pump (Quantum brand) while I was in there. + +I still have the problem. It happens when I have disconnected the gas line and ran off a brand new portable tank with premium no-ethanol fuel and brand new Yamaha brand gas line. It is like it has two speeds at full throttle. It withholds 10 percent of top end RPM and once in a while gives all she's got. I have ordered a diagnostic software kit but will need to wait till May now as it has gone into storage for the season. Sea Foam did seem to help but only temporary. i guess fuel injectors are next. What a PITA!","I have the same problem on my 2008 F115. Changed the fuel filter. Changed the VST filter. It's not that hard I put a drop sheet underneath to catch anything that might fall out. Glad I did because there are spacers on the VST canister mount that fell out. I stuffed rags around the base of the motor so nothing could fall in there. Took lots of pictures. I have read that you can just remove the screen from the VST filter. I decided to put a new $30 VST filter in and changed the fuel pump (Quantum brand) while I was in there. + +I still have the problem. It happens when I have disconnected the gas line and ran off a brand new portable tank with premium no-ethanol fuel and brand new Yamaha brand gas line. It is like it has two speeds at full throttle. It withholds 10 percent of top end RPM and once in a while gives all she's got. I have ordered a diagnostic software kit but will need to wait till May now as it has gone into storage for the season. Sea Foam did seem to help but only temporary. i guess fuel injectors are next. What a PITA!","What did the impeller look like when you took it out? Had it disintegrated maybe lodging rubber in the cooling system? How much water is now coming out the tell tale? I wouldn't expect there to be a reset, but the mechanism that puts it into limp mode may have caused a problem too. Is it fuel injected or carbureted? + +Stuart" +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 115 4 strokeF115TLRC. It idles great. Press the button in on the shifter and rev the throttle, the RPMs jumps up to 6K. Changed the water/fuel separator filter, fuel filter,all the fuel lines, new spark plugs, etc... When I have the boat in the waterand take off, it planes out. When I throttle up to 38-3900 RPMs it is okay.When I give it more throttle it acts like it starves for fuel and the RPMsstart to drop and I start losing speed. Anyone experience this with theiroutboard? Checked the gas in the fuel filter looked clean. The fuel in the water separator was clear. Appreciate any help.","8kgold69 said: + + + + Thanks for the response. I apologize for not responding sooner. I pulled the intake manifold unit off, not that tough of a job, disassemble the VST tank, checked the filter on the bottom of the pump motor, some debree, but nothing that would restrick the fuel flow. Pulled spark plugs to see if any were gas fouled. All were dry which indicates none of the injectors are leaking. Checked the inline filter that goes from the fuel pump assy to the VST tank, clear. Made sure all fuel lines are clear. Checked the pickup in the fuel tank, not clogged. I've changed all the other filters. No difference in motor performance. Now looking at some of the parts diagrams on line I notice a couple of other parts that I think maybe causing a problem. After pulling up some parts websites I notice there is a Pressure regulator. It is under the FUEL INJECTION NOZZLE category item # 9. Then looking under the FUEL 1 category #14, fuel pump assy, there are two diaphrams. And then under the INTAKE 2 category, #13 is a filter assy that mounts under the fuel control valve assy. Could someone tell me if they have experience any problems with these items? I would appreciate any help. +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Have you tried priming the fuel bulb when you are at WOT to see if it gets the rpm? Low pressure fuel pumps are often the cause of the symptoms you are having.","8kgold69 said: + + + + Thanks for the response. I apologize for not responding sooner. I pulled the intake manifold unit off, not that tough of a job, disassemble the VST tank, checked the filter on the bottom of the pump motor, some debree, but nothing that would restrick the fuel flow. Pulled spark plugs to see if any were gas fouled. All were dry which indicates none of the injectors are leaking. Checked the inline filter that goes from the fuel pump assy to the VST tank, clear. Made sure all fuel lines are clear. Checked the pickup in the fuel tank, not clogged. I've changed all the other filters. No difference in motor performance. Now looking at some of the parts diagrams on line I notice a couple of other parts that I think maybe causing a problem. After pulling up some parts websites I notice there is a Pressure regulator. It is under the FUEL INJECTION NOZZLE category item # 9. Then looking under the FUEL 1 category #14, fuel pump assy, there are two diaphrams. And then under the INTAKE 2 category, #13 is a filter assy that mounts under the fuel control valve assy. Could someone tell me if they have experience any problems with these items? I would appreciate any help. +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Have you tried priming the fuel bulb when you are at WOT to see if it gets the rpm? Low pressure fuel pumps are often the cause of the symptoms you are having.",Before you order a sensor check the connector on the main oil tank. Unplug the connector and first pull on each wire . If you find a broken wire at the pin you could push out the wire or pin .You have to release the pin before pushing it out. I had the same problem with the engine tank going down and the alarm sounding. I found the wire broken just behind the pin. I just soldiered the wire back on and was able to insert the pin again. Good luck. +"I have a 1998 Yamaha 115 outboard 2 stroke that runs great on dry land. When you put it in the water--it idles great, but will not rev up and run as it used to run. It does great on dry land when you rev it up but not under load. + +It has been in the shop for 2 years and the mechanic has replaced about everything electrically on the boat and has redone the carbs and gas lines. He is a great guy and has given up on the motor. He says that the Yamaha factory rep says the problem is a cylinder sleeve. + +From the bill he has reworked the carbs, replaced the fuel hoses, installed a new CDI unit, Staton assembly, replaced the pump, fuel separator, Pulsen Coil Assembly, crank start key, pressure relief valve assembly. etc. + +He says that the motor has good compression and spark. + +When I returned home with the boat--I cranked it and it idled well and ran fast when I put it in gear after connecting water etc. + +This motor has less than 100 hours on it and has never given any trouble before our fishing trip 2 years ago. + +Any suggestions or ideas?????","What he's saying doesn't add up to me. If there's an issue with a cylinder sleeve, that would mean you'd have low compression. Try to find the service manual on yamahapubs.com and do a compression test yourself. The gauge is not expensive and it's an easy test to perform. The service manual will tell you what the minimum compression for your engine should be. + +During this test, you should also inspect the spark plug tips. If they're black and wet, you know that engine oil is leaking somewhere and coating the plugs with oil. If they're dry and dark, you know it's running rich (too much fuel in the air/fuel mixture going into the cylinder). If they're orangey/gray, that means it's running lean (too much air in the air/fuel mixture). + +If you do find that it has low compression in one or more cylinders, it's probably time to get a new engine, as the cost to repair it would be more than it's actually worth. Given that he already worked on the carbs, I would guess it's low compression. + +It's possible that it could be a spun prop hub, but in that case, it would still rev up under load. You'd still feel the power loss, but the RPMs would still go up. + +If you're not comfortable doing the compression test, take it to someone else.","What he's saying doesn't add up to me. If there's an issue with a cylinder sleeve, that would mean you'd have low compression. Try to find the service manual on yamahapubs.com and do a compression test yourself. The gauge is not expensive and it's an easy test to perform. The service manual will tell you what the minimum compression for your engine should be. + +During this test, you should also inspect the spark plug tips. If they're black and wet, you know that engine oil is leaking somewhere and coating the plugs with oil. If they're dry and dark, you know it's running rich (too much fuel in the air/fuel mixture going into the cylinder). If they're orangey/gray, that means it's running lean (too much air in the air/fuel mixture). + +If you do find that it has low compression in one or more cylinders, it's probably time to get a new engine, as the cost to repair it would be more than it's actually worth. Given that he already worked on the carbs, I would guess it's low compression. + +It's possible that it could be a spun prop hub, but in that case, it would still rev up under load. You'd still feel the power loss, but the RPMs would still go up. + +If you're not comfortable doing the compression test, take it to someone else.",Sounds like a defective unit. You have to raise the rpm's a little to excite the one wire alt. It should start to charge around 1200-1500 rpm's. +"I have a 1998 Yamaha 115 outboard 2 stroke that runs great on dry land. When you put it in the water--it idles great, but will not rev up and run as it used to run. It does great on dry land when you rev it up but not under load. + +It has been in the shop for 2 years and the mechanic has replaced about everything electrically on the boat and has redone the carbs and gas lines. He is a great guy and has given up on the motor. He says that the Yamaha factory rep says the problem is a cylinder sleeve. + +From the bill he has reworked the carbs, replaced the fuel hoses, installed a new CDI unit, Staton assembly, replaced the pump, fuel separator, Pulsen Coil Assembly, crank start key, pressure relief valve assembly. etc. + +He says that the motor has good compression and spark. + +When I returned home with the boat--I cranked it and it idled well and ran fast when I put it in gear after connecting water etc. + +This motor has less than 100 hours on it and has never given any trouble before our fishing trip 2 years ago. + +Any suggestions or ideas?????",It could be the carbs given all that has been done. Cleaning those carbs can be very difficult if they get gummed up. If he cleaned them by hand and didn't have an ultrasonic cleaner tank etc there is a chance that they haven't been cleaned enough. If you have good compression and he has been right through the spark as it appears then it is back to fuel. Since he has done the pumps (how many) you come back to carbs of maybe the spark advance but he should have got that sorted if it was wrong.,It could be the carbs given all that has been done. Cleaning those carbs can be very difficult if they get gummed up. If he cleaned them by hand and didn't have an ultrasonic cleaner tank etc there is a chance that they haven't been cleaned enough. If you have good compression and he has been right through the spark as it appears then it is back to fuel. Since he has done the pumps (how many) you come back to carbs of maybe the spark advance but he should have got that sorted if it was wrong.,"The cowling is not waterproof as it has one ten inch long, jagged crack in the center of the front panel and a second crack on the port edge of the front. I am hoping to find out what company manufactures Mercury cowlings to get a lead on the plastic characteristics." +"I have a 1998 Yamaha 115 outboard 2 stroke that runs great on dry land. When you put it in the water--it idles great, but will not rev up and run as it used to run. It does great on dry land when you rev it up but not under load. + +It has been in the shop for 2 years and the mechanic has replaced about everything electrically on the boat and has redone the carbs and gas lines. He is a great guy and has given up on the motor. He says that the Yamaha factory rep says the problem is a cylinder sleeve. + +From the bill he has reworked the carbs, replaced the fuel hoses, installed a new CDI unit, Staton assembly, replaced the pump, fuel separator, Pulsen Coil Assembly, crank start key, pressure relief valve assembly. etc. + +He says that the motor has good compression and spark. + +When I returned home with the boat--I cranked it and it idled well and ran fast when I put it in gear after connecting water etc. + +This motor has less than 100 hours on it and has never given any trouble before our fishing trip 2 years ago. + +Any suggestions or ideas?????","Carbs have not been properly cleaned.All the ignition parts you have replaced are parts that very rarely fail. Having sat so long I am guessing one or more of the main nets have a thin layer of varnish making the jet fractionally smaller, that is all it takes.","Carbs have not been properly cleaned.All the ignition parts you have replaced are parts that very rarely fail. Having sat so long I am guessing one or more of the main nets have a thin layer of varnish making the jet fractionally smaller, that is all it takes.",Thank you very much Makomark. I really appreciate it. +"I have a customer that has a 1986 Yamaha PROV 150 that has had the oil injection system removed. When I run the engine at idle it runs fine, but when I give it throttle it goes into limp mode. Had to replace the fuel pumps and rebuild to carbs to get it running to find this out. All the oil injection systems is missing. Has aftermarket gauges. Alarm is sounding. Can anyone provide anyhelp. + + +Thanks",When you say ALL oil inject systems are gone are you also including the sensors?...its the sensors that trip the alarm. If the alarm is oil system related amd not temp related then its grounding somewhere within whatever remains of the sensors circuitry,When you say ALL oil inject systems are gone are you also including the sensors?...its the sensors that trip the alarm. If the alarm is oil system related amd not temp related then its grounding somewhere within whatever remains of the sensors circuitry,"Ayuh,.... Rustoleum white industrial enamel,....." +"I have a customer that has a 1986 Yamaha PROV 150 that has had the oil injection system removed. When I run the engine at idle it runs fine, but when I give it throttle it goes into limp mode. Had to replace the fuel pumps and rebuild to carbs to get it running to find this out. All the oil injection systems is missing. Has aftermarket gauges. Alarm is sounding. Can anyone provide anyhelp. + + +Thanks","ClassicAQ said: + + + + When you say ALL oil inject systems are gone are you also including the sensors?...its the sensors that trip the alarm. If the alarm is oil system related amd not temp related then its grounding somewhere within whatever remains of the sensors circuitry + +Click to expand... + + + +as far as I can tell, both tanks, and all the wiring harness are missing. only thing i can find is a harness plug with 7 wires, green, green/red, blue, black, brown, yellow/red, and yellow.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + When you say ALL oil inject systems are gone are you also including the sensors?...its the sensors that trip the alarm. If the alarm is oil system related amd not temp related then its grounding somewhere within whatever remains of the sensors circuitry + +Click to expand... + + + +as far as I can tell, both tanks, and all the wiring harness are missing. only thing i can find is a harness plug with 7 wires, green, green/red, blue, black, brown, yellow/red, and yellow.","Thanks Chawk_man, + + After reading other posts and different websites, I wired it and got it to turn over. I had read these tables before but the problem is that none of the colors found in these tables match up to my wiring (brown wire was used to come off the battery). At some point, this boat needs new wire, but I am not ready to tackle that yet. Thanks for the help. + +Jaybirdnwa" +"Hello. I just purchased a 1985 18' Lund Limited Edition with original, twin, 40 hp outboards. One had milky oil, so I am replacing the seals, o ring, and water pump while I am in there. On the Evinrudes I have done, you put one oil seal one way and one the other way. When I pulled the seals, they were both with lip facing outward. Is this the proper way? I don't see it clearly enough in the service manual I bought and I don't see it written in the instructions. I saw a thread about this relating to Mercury and someone said it is supposed to be alternated on pretty much every outboard, which makes sense. But, would like confirmation before I go through all the work. + +Thanks for the help. Wish the weather was nice enough to use it this year. Nice boat for a '85. + +Sorry about the title. forgot to type the word ""seal"" in the heading.","I found the thread again, about seal orientation. It was a Mariner motor, not Mercury. I didn't use the right keywords on the search. Looks like any double seal is supposed to have one seal for pressure and one for vacuum. I will plan to do it that way, unless someone stops me.","I found the thread again, about seal orientation. It was a Mariner motor, not Mercury. I didn't use the right keywords on the search. Looks like any double seal is supposed to have one seal for pressure and one for vacuum. I will plan to do it that way, unless someone stops me.","Welcome matar961 to the Yamaha Forum! + +You didn't mention which model engine you have (I run a 25 yr old 90TLRP and a 30 yr old Honda BF100E and I guess we should include that in our Profile 'signature'). + +By ""...start to cut off..."" do you refer to a reduction in RPM? + +Yamaha's have a ""Self-Protection"" reduction to 2,000-2,200 RPM that is triggered by an overheat sensed or low oil on Oil-Injected models. Other 'triggers' vary by engine models. + +These should be accompanied by an indication in the form of a warning buzzer and indication in the digital Tach. + +"",,,have to turn it off for about 30 minute."" Points to overheat. + +Only problems I've ever had with my Yamaha were Overheat Warnings. + +First was when it was only five years old, caused by a pinhole corrosion leak from top cylinder combustion chamber into inner head water chamber. Due to all the cool water flowing through head's outer water chamber, it did not ""feel"" hot at all... (Takeaway from that was ""Never Ignore an OH Warning"" even if it ""Feels"" cool to touch (or Laser Gun). + +Second (recent) was due to a partial blockage where water exits block into upper chamber exhaust route. Fresh Water Rinse after use and (much later use of) ""Salt Away"" had cooling chamber clean up where Thermostat and Pressure Regulator were located. + +It took a removal of the cylinder head to see this pile of residue (in clumps too large to pass) causing restriction and my decision to also remove exhaust cover opened a real 'can-of-worms' for me. + +You can confirm your Warning Buzzer (with key-switch 'On') by grounding the pink lead from an overheat sensor/s (usually near top of a cylinder head/s) or applying 12 volts to buzzer itself, first method preferred. + +You can confirm integrity of your overheat sensor/s with an OHM Meter and Candy Thermometer in a heating pan of water on your stove. No continuity between pink and black until temperature passes 190f or so (check your engine's Service Manual) and circuit should reopen again as it cools down past 150f. Check your Thermostat/s at same time for opening at 130f or so and minimum rise of valve to 3/16ths"" or so + +You need to have a Service Manual if you want to be involved with your engines health. A minimum would be the Seloc Manual and that would be available in your local Library, purchased on eBay or a local 'used-book' store (where all my 'former' engine/auto SM's went). Clymer's Book is also excellent and the Factory SM for your model should be 'the bible' (it's quoted in those user manuals). Of course SM's for the more recent models can be purchased on this site or your local Marine Supply or Marina/Yamaha Dealer. + +Best of luck with the problem and have a Great Holiday, +Art" +"So to begin I have checked both switches and the trim motor itself.. They work normal, ohm out normal and the motor works perfect if i hook straight power to it. Well i ordered a new relay from amazon and hooked it up... same exact problem as before.. my old relay went up fine everytime and work sometimes going down, but then the down didnt work ever and just clicks but the up still works fine, i switched the wires on the relay and it only went down and not up... relay right??? so I ordered the relay from amazon and the motor goes down now but not up?????? bad relay or and I missing something? any help would be great, thanks​","Firstly, what engine is it, does it have two individual relays or a solid state all in one. If it has two relays and you only changed the one relay, then you have changed the incorrect relay, just swop back the one you removed for the other old one.","Firstly, what engine is it, does it have two individual relays or a solid state all in one. If it has two relays and you only changed the one relay, then you have changed the incorrect relay, just swop back the one you removed for the other old one.","""summer of 08 I trailered my 2 + +""summer of 08 I trailered my 23ft lobster boat with a 150 Honda from Maine to Ma to go cod fishing with my cousins,I had to leave the boat for close to 3 weeks on the trailer,when I got back the racor was full of white paste with a touch of purple coloring in it.I had to tow the boat to the dealer & have it flushed out to get the engine running again.People here in Maine when I came back didn't believe me but by fall when Maine went to ethanol many people found out quickly how bad ethanol was.Snow mobiles got stranded miles from camp & rescue crews got broke down trying to get to them,very sad situation.The techs that I talked to said it was due to the ethanol molecules & water molecules combining to make a solid,hence the white paste I took out of my racor & it took less than 21 days.Most of us in my area are using Star Tron fuel treatment & have had no problems YET!""" +"So to begin I have checked both switches and the trim motor itself.. They work normal, ohm out normal and the motor works perfect if i hook straight power to it. Well i ordered a new relay from amazon and hooked it up... same exact problem as before.. my old relay went up fine everytime and work sometimes going down, but then the down didnt work ever and just clicks but the up still works fine, i switched the wires on the relay and it only went down and not up... relay right??? so I ordered the relay from amazon and the motor goes down now but not up?????? bad relay or and I missing something? any help would be great, thanks​","Its a 2008 F90TLR, unfortunately it only has the one relay.. which cost almost $300.","Its a 2008 F90TLR, unfortunately it only has the one relay.. which cost almost $300.","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,..... Black wires are most likely/ should be Grounds,..... + +Click to expand... + + + +The small one by the ignition module was, however in not sure about the cream colored one near cylinder number 2 + +Got it fired up + +Now for the gimble bearing and bellows then if to the lake + +The bilge pump works, but I need to check out the blower if i can find it, there is a switch for it" +"So to begin I have checked both switches and the trim motor itself.. They work normal, ohm out normal and the motor works perfect if i hook straight power to it. Well i ordered a new relay from amazon and hooked it up... same exact problem as before.. my old relay went up fine everytime and work sometimes going down, but then the down didnt work ever and just clicks but the up still works fine, i switched the wires on the relay and it only went down and not up... relay right??? so I ordered the relay from amazon and the motor goes down now but not up?????? bad relay or and I missing something? any help would be great, thanks​","Try bypassing the switch by connecting a 12v jump to the small blue and then green and see if that works, if it does you either have a bad connection somewhere or a bad trim switch.","Try bypassing the switch by connecting a 12v jump to the small blue and then green and see if that works, if it does you either have a bad connection somewhere or a bad trim switch.","Below is an explanation of my wiring (I will try to keep it as simple as possible). + + + +HEATER is connected to WIRING HARNESS + + + +WIRING HARNESS is connected to PUMP: + +BROWN to PUMP +GREEN-RED to PUMP + + + +WIRING HARNESS is connected to HIGH ALTITUDE SENSOR: + +RED to RED +YELLOW to YELLOW +BROWN to BROWN +BLUE-WHITE to BLUE-WHITE + +On Harness side GREY-RED and BROWN-WHITE are tied together + +On Harness side BLUE, GREY, BLUE-PURPLE, RED-WHITE are tapped off + + + +HIGH ALTITUDE SENSOR is connected to EASY START SELECT controller: + +BLUE-WHITE to BLUE-WHITE +BROWN to BROWN +RED to RED + +On High Altitude Sensor side YELLOW not connected + +On Controller side GREY Taped off" +"So to begin I have checked both switches and the trim motor itself.. They work normal, ohm out normal and the motor works perfect if i hook straight power to it. Well i ordered a new relay from amazon and hooked it up... same exact problem as before.. my old relay went up fine everytime and work sometimes going down, but then the down didnt work ever and just clicks but the up still works fine, i switched the wires on the relay and it only went down and not up... relay right??? so I ordered the relay from amazon and the motor goes down now but not up?????? bad relay or and I missing something? any help would be great, thanks​",unplug the switch at relay and test it there? or from the plug at the switch on the motor?,unplug the switch at relay and test it there? or from the plug at the switch on the motor?,"Ideally, you want the battery capacity (size) to meet your needs. Those units are AMP*HOURS. if you need 'smaller' cases, you can physically split your source into two or more units but you will have extra cost doing that. So you need to figure out how you will use the motor and go from there. + +I'd suggest a AGM technology with Deep Cycle construction.....I believe that combination will give you longest service life." +"So to begin I have checked both switches and the trim motor itself.. They work normal, ohm out normal and the motor works perfect if i hook straight power to it. Well i ordered a new relay from amazon and hooked it up... same exact problem as before.. my old relay went up fine everytime and work sometimes going down, but then the down didnt work ever and just clicks but the up still works fine, i switched the wires on the relay and it only went down and not up... relay right??? so I ordered the relay from amazon and the motor goes down now but not up?????? bad relay or and I missing something? any help would be great, thanks​",At the relay,At the relay,"I believe the yamaha outboard website has the codes for specific model/year paint colors. And if they don't, you'll find the answer with google. Once you've determined the accurate paint code used, you can then order X amount to paint the LU." +I am replacing the thermo sensor and notice a little grease in the chamber that the sensor slides into. Should it be greased or dry? Thank you in advance for your help.,Makes no difference.,Makes no difference.,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Did anyone ask if you have voltage gauges or Amp gauges? + +Click to expand... + + +Hi, It's a voltage guage.. + +Hmm, dya mean that maybe position in the dash is REALLY is wired for an ammeter? But there's a volmeter in there? As you can tell I know nothing about electricity.. + +Thanks to everyone, Pal" +whats the white collar on top of the water pump,Year and model help...pics do too. Or just search for your model year parts blow out on this website.,Year and model help...pics do too. Or just search for your model year parts blow out on this website.,"If the question relates to the apparent lack of effectiveness when the motor is in reverse, that is completely normal. The propeller is designed so as to be most efficient when in forward. When in reverse, the thrust produced can seem to be extremely lacking. + +If someone does a lot of backing up there are propellers designed so that reverse thrust efficiency is improved. Although at the expense of forward thrust." +"Does anyone have a cheap and easy way to remove the water pump drive shaft collar and nylon bushing, on top of the water pump impeller? Whoever designed this one, had a real brain trust going on. Thanks! + +This is on a 2003 115 hp 4 stroke.","Warm it with a propane torch and knock it right into the garbage can. Replace both parts with new, from Yamaha. + +Do not loose the spring washers.","Warm it with a propane torch and knock it right into the garbage can. Replace both parts with new, from Yamaha. + +Do not loose the spring washers.","I forgot to mention in the original post that the engine will run rough like it is in the video for about 10 minutes, and then it runs fine for the rest of the trip. + +Please help. The fish are getting away." +"Does anyone have a cheap and easy way to remove the water pump drive shaft collar and nylon bushing, on top of the water pump impeller? Whoever designed this one, had a real brain trust going on. Thanks! + +This is on a 2003 115 hp 4 stroke.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Warm it with a propane torch and knock it right into the garbage can. Replace both parts with new, from Yamaha. + +Do not loose the spring washers. + +Click to expand... + + + +Will do. Thanks! if this collar is loose, will it cause a rattle in the lower unit?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Warm it with a propane torch and knock it right into the garbage can. Replace both parts with new, from Yamaha. + +Do not loose the spring washers. + +Click to expand... + + + +Will do. Thanks! if this collar is loose, will it cause a rattle in the lower unit?","trim sensor,sender, sounds bad,can be tested." +"Does anyone have a cheap and easy way to remove the water pump drive shaft collar and nylon bushing, on top of the water pump impeller? Whoever designed this one, had a real brain trust going on. Thanks! + +This is on a 2003 115 hp 4 stroke.","Chick said: + + + + Will do. Thanks! if this collar is loose, will it cause a rattle in the lower unit? + +Click to expand... + + +Negative. It just holds the impeller down against the wear plate.","Chick said: + + + + Will do. Thanks! if this collar is loose, will it cause a rattle in the lower unit? + +Click to expand... + + +Negative. It just holds the impeller down against the wear plate.",Yep that's the one. +"I need to replace the oil seals under my water pump. Do I need to pull the bearing housing to get them out or can I just use my seal puller and pull them out as it is? How do I get the housing out if I need to pull it? I have the Seloc manual but it's not much help. + +Thank you!",Anybody please?,Anybody please?,Not that hard but it may require machine work and outside expertise.------But take the heads off now.----Just a few bolts. +"I need to replace the oil seals under my water pump. Do I need to pull the bearing housing to get them out or can I just use my seal puller and pull them out as it is? How do I get the housing out if I need to pull it? I have the Seloc manual but it's not much help. + +Thank you!","If I remember the driveshaft has to come out.-----There is a nut on the bottom of the shaft.----So the propshaft also has to come out.----Quite a lot of work , but everything will be inspected .-----Good to go for many years again.","If I remember the driveshaft has to come out.-----There is a nut on the bottom of the shaft.----So the propshaft also has to come out.----Quite a lot of work , but everything will be inspected .-----Good to go for many years again.","As you continue to troubleshoot, I wouldn't rely on speed as a means to gauge engine performance. This is because there are numerous environmental variables that affect speed. Rpms are the looking glass, so to speak, of engine performance. I'd first find means to confirm accurate rpms, as speed is just the byproduct of rpms with influencing environmental and load factors." +"I need to replace the oil seals under my water pump. Do I need to pull the bearing housing to get them out or can I just use my seal puller and pull them out as it is? How do I get the housing out if I need to pull it? I have the Seloc manual but it's not much help. + +Thank you!","racerone said: + + + + If I remember the driveshaft has to come out.-----There is a nut on the bottom of the shaft.----So the propshaft also has to come out.----Quite a lot of work , but everything will be inspected .-----Good to go for many years again. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks racerone, I appreciate it.","racerone said: + + + + If I remember the driveshaft has to come out.-----There is a nut on the bottom of the shaft.----So the propshaft also has to come out.----Quite a lot of work , but everything will be inspected .-----Good to go for many years again. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks racerone, I appreciate it.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + The gas is junk. It will turn your engine to junk too. Pump it out and put in fresh fuel. + +Click to expand... + + +Ok, will do" +"I am a 'newbie' to your site and would much appreciate some advice please. + +I have recently purchased a new/single Yamaha F115 BETL engine for my 21ft fishing boat. As suitable/appropriate batteries for salt water boats and engines are not always available here in Costa Rica could anyone give me some advice as to a recently 'highly recommended' battery? Would this particular ""EVEREADY 27 MARINE DC (FC#15)"" be appropriate for my Yamaha engine - and any idea what guarantee period I should expect? + +Thank you",Since you purchased engine new the dealer should have included the owners manual. In this manual lists the recommended battery.,Since you purchased engine new the dealer should have included the owners manual. In this manual lists the recommended battery.,"Defintely do a compression check. I have the 2 stroke 115 HP ""C"" model. I have talked to many mechanics and they say my model is good for over 2000 hrs. Mine is 14 years old and still going strong. The VST filter needs to be addressed on a regular basis, on your model." +"I am a 'newbie' to your site and would much appreciate some advice please. + +I have recently purchased a new/single Yamaha F115 BETL engine for my 21ft fishing boat. As suitable/appropriate batteries for salt water boats and engines are not always available here in Costa Rica could anyone give me some advice as to a recently 'highly recommended' battery? Would this particular ""EVEREADY 27 MARINE DC (FC#15)"" be appropriate for my Yamaha engine - and any idea what guarantee period I should expect? + +Thank you","EFREKEN said: + + + + I am a 'newbie' to your site and would much appreciate some advice please. + +I have recently purchased a new/single Yamaha F115 BETL engine for my 21ft fishing boat. As suitable/appropriate batteries for salt water boats and engines are not always available here in Costa Rica could anyone give me some advice as to a recently 'highly recommended' battery? Would this particular ""EVEREADY 27 MARINE DC (FC#15)"" be appropriate for my Yamaha engine - and any idea what guarantee period I should expect? + +Thank you + +Click to expand... + + +According to the manual: + +Minimum cold cranking amps (CCA/ +SAE): +380.0 A +Minimum marine cranking amps (MCA/ +ABYC): +502.0 A +Minimum reserve capacity (RC/SAE): +124 minutes","EFREKEN said: + + + + I am a 'newbie' to your site and would much appreciate some advice please. + +I have recently purchased a new/single Yamaha F115 BETL engine for my 21ft fishing boat. As suitable/appropriate batteries for salt water boats and engines are not always available here in Costa Rica could anyone give me some advice as to a recently 'highly recommended' battery? Would this particular ""EVEREADY 27 MARINE DC (FC#15)"" be appropriate for my Yamaha engine - and any idea what guarantee period I should expect? + +Thank you + +Click to expand... + + +According to the manual: + +Minimum cold cranking amps (CCA/ +SAE): +380.0 A +Minimum marine cranking amps (MCA/ +ABYC): +502.0 A +Minimum reserve capacity (RC/SAE): +124 minutes","Looks to be the equivalent of a 1996 USA model C150TXRU. Sender part number is 6R3-83672-01-00. + +Does it look like this one?" +"Hello all! I have searched numerous other forums regarding this issue, and have replaced all which was recommended to me, yet my problem still exists. + +I have an 04 OX66, 200hp. The engine will start within 1/2 a revolution in the morning. It will idle at the dock for 10-15 minutes while I wait for everyone to gather their things and board the boat. Ill get out of the no wake zone, get up on plane, and run for about 20 seconds (1/4 to 1/2 throttle), and the engine will fall on its face. Most times it will restart immediately and run as if it was a brand new engine for the rest of the day. + +This morning, boat was idling for about 10 minutes, then killed. Took about 20 minutes to get it to start again. Got up on plane, engine killed about 20 seconds later. Took another few minutes to re-start, got on plane, then killed again. Another several minutes getting it to re-start, and I fished for 6 hours after with no issues the rest of the day. Get to a spot, kill the engine, it would restart immediately, then run to my next spot, kill, re-start, run to next spot, etc. + +I have replaced spark plugs, low pressure fuel pumps, O2 sensor, New VST filter and gasket for tank, new primer bulb, drained and re-fueled the main tank, added ring-free to fuel, and tried yamalube and I'm now on Penzoil synthetic. Not sure if I may have an ignition or fuel related problem. Just trying to avoid the $125 an hour on an intermittent issue at the repair facility. Any help is greatly appreciated! + +Thanks, + +Chad","Try diagnosing it before replacing more parts. The typical reasons for your issues are: + +-lean fuel mixture +-low compression +-weak spark +-electrical issue + +Is the cranking battery healthy, and are the terminal connections tight and free of corrosion? + +Are there any leaks near the air intake manifold? Spray some brake cleaner or starting fluid near the manifold to see if the idle speed changes. + +Remove all the spark plugs. Do the tips all look the same? Can you tell if it's running lean or rich? Look for pictures online to compare yours to. + +Get a compression gauge, and test all the cylinders to make sure they're within spec. Warm up the engine, shut it down, remove all the spark plugs, fully open the throttle, remove the safety lanyard, and crank the engine after screwing in the gauge. Get the service manual to tell you what the spec is. + +Get a spark tester, and test all the plug wires immediately after the issue occurs. Make sure they all produce good spark. + +If none of those tests reveal anything unusual, then it's probably worth taking in to a tech.","Try diagnosing it before replacing more parts. The typical reasons for your issues are: + +-lean fuel mixture +-low compression +-weak spark +-electrical issue + +Is the cranking battery healthy, and are the terminal connections tight and free of corrosion? + +Are there any leaks near the air intake manifold? Spray some brake cleaner or starting fluid near the manifold to see if the idle speed changes. + +Remove all the spark plugs. Do the tips all look the same? Can you tell if it's running lean or rich? Look for pictures online to compare yours to. + +Get a compression gauge, and test all the cylinders to make sure they're within spec. Warm up the engine, shut it down, remove all the spark plugs, fully open the throttle, remove the safety lanyard, and crank the engine after screwing in the gauge. Get the service manual to tell you what the spec is. + +Get a spark tester, and test all the plug wires immediately after the issue occurs. Make sure they all produce good spark. + +If none of those tests reveal anything unusual, then it's probably worth taking in to a tech.",http://boats.com/boat-details/cape-horn-19/176063841 +"Hello, brand new member and first time poster here. + +I have a 2001 Yamaha 150 2-stroke with a bad VST fuel pump. With Yamaha getting $5-800 for an OEM pump, I'm seriously looking at aftermarket pumps. Prices seem to start as low at $60 or so, with the ones I'm looking at running around $200. + +Does anyone have a knowledgeable opinion on this? What are the good/best aftermarket brands for fuel pumps? + +Thanks in advance, + +Moose","How do you know the VST is bad? + +I don't know about aftermarket brands, but hey.. $60 is pretty low risk. The pump will either work or it won't.. it's not like it will cause any serious damage either way.","How do you know the VST is bad? + +I don't know about aftermarket brands, but hey.. $60 is pretty low risk. The pump will either work or it won't.. it's not like it will cause any serious damage either way.","Do you have a fuse block under the dash? From the sounds of it you need to go completely through all the wiring now and add a good fuse block if necessary. You can never have too many fuses and fixing it on the water is alot easier once you know how it is wired. If one switch is bad you need to consider changing them all while your at it. +http://newboatbuilders.com/images/circuit6.jpg" +"Hello, brand new member and first time poster here. + +I have a 2001 Yamaha 150 2-stroke with a bad VST fuel pump. With Yamaha getting $5-800 for an OEM pump, I'm seriously looking at aftermarket pumps. Prices seem to start as low at $60 or so, with the ones I'm looking at running around $200. + +Does anyone have a knowledgeable opinion on this? What are the good/best aftermarket brands for fuel pumps? + +Thanks in advance, + +Moose",You get what you pay for...The cheap person will pay 3x.,You get what you pay for...The cheap person will pay 3x.,"Go to the top of this page and click on ""Forum Home"". Then click on Mercury Outboards and post your questions there." +"Hello, brand new member and first time poster here. + +I have a 2001 Yamaha 150 2-stroke with a bad VST fuel pump. With Yamaha getting $5-800 for an OEM pump, I'm seriously looking at aftermarket pumps. Prices seem to start as low at $60 or so, with the ones I'm looking at running around $200. + +Does anyone have a knowledgeable opinion on this? What are the good/best aftermarket brands for fuel pumps? + +Thanks in advance, + +Moose","My recommendation....replace oem for fuel related parts located inside the cowling, excluding the fuel filter","My recommendation....replace oem for fuel related parts located inside the cowling, excluding the fuel filter","Yes on the return line. I will try that next time we water test. that is good to know but still not sure if I understand. So that fuel would just be returned to the tank? + +The filter in the VST is 2 micron. Unless you install a 2 micron Racor the filter is doing nothing to stop the white powder. If the filter mount is deteriorating it doesn't matter what size filter you install. If the tank is corroding it may be time to replace it. Is the fuel tank aluminum?[/QUOTE] + +The racor element and holder are brand new. The tank is plastic and spotless. New puck up tube. We changed the bottom of the VST tank back in November. cleaned everything, boat got somewhat higher RPM for awhile but would still bog down at RPM's above 4000. Sometimes and I think the hint might be in the sometimes. Yesterday first at 1500, then 2500, 3000, then next thing you know we are doing 5700 and the engine sounds perfect. let it run like that for awhile and pull it back. next time you push the throttle up, advancing the throttle above 1500 engine just bogs again and backfires and coughs. Pull the throttle back slowly and RPM catches to 2200 but bogs as soon as the throttle is advanced. + +We have run the engine under load with the diagnostic on, NADA we run it with the pressure indicator in the rail and when the boat bogs the pressure drops to somewhere below 25. I would have thought that means the problem is before the rail but maybe not? +Thanks for hanging in there we me. as this is very frustrating. +Rick" +"I need to buy a new fuel line for my 60HP 4 stroke, looks like I can save about $30 at west marine with their aftermarket line, has anyone had issues with a fuel line that is not Yamaha? After the issues I've had this summer I'm not sure if it's worth saving $30!",I have used their fuel line in the past on my old Mercury. I have never had any problems with it.,I have used their fuel line in the past on my old Mercury. I have never had any problems with it.,You might try something like this.... +"About 1-3 times a day, the engine will stall out after throttling down from high rpm. Typically, I run the engine at about 5800 rpm when traveling around (for maybe 1-3 minutes at a time), and then throttle down back to idle or close to idle. For reference, it will easily go over 6000 rpms if I go full throttle. It accelerates very quickly. I don't notice any issues with power. But it occasionally stalls when going back to idle or close to idle. Sometimes it will also stall when going from neutral to drive, but that's rare. + +After stalling, it never fails to restart immediately, and I don't have another stall for a few hours (and sometimes for the rest of the day). + +I should also note that it's slightly shaky when idling. It never seems like it struggles to maintain a consistent rpm or really get bogged down.. but it's a noticeable shake that I don't remember happening when I first got the boat 3 years ago. It's just a slight, consistent shake that occurs even after the engine is warmed up and has been run at 5800 rpms for a few minutes. This has been occurring since last season, but the stalling issue seems to be newer. + +I've run most of the YDS 1.3 tests, and I see no error codes or odd behavior. This weekend, I'm going to do a spark test and compression test on each plug/cylinder. + +I think my first step will just be to replace the spark plugs, but I'm wondering if I should check anything else. Thanks for any suggestions.",Solved: I sprayed some silicone and brake fluid around the intake manifold and the idle speed changed. So it looks like an air leak.,Solved: I sprayed some silicone and brake fluid around the intake manifold and the idle speed changed. So it looks like an air leak.,Everything I have found shows the 50 as a 43 cid block and the 70 as a 52 cube block not the same +"""My 2004 F225 4-Stroke Yamaha + +""My 2004 F225 4-Stroke Yamaha (300 hrs) runs great cold, at all RPMs. After warm up, it idles rough - sounds like it's missing. Wide open, runs great. At low RPM's it spits and kicks, sounds like it is loading up and coughing out. + +When it is spitting and kicking at low RMPs, Fuel Pressure is bouncing from 40-45 PSIs, else it stays a solid 40. If you let the engine set a couple hours and go back out - it runs great again - until it warms up. + +I have replaced the fuel, filters, and separator. Also the spark plugs. + +Thoughts???""","Mount your primer bulb in a ve + +Mount your primer bulb in a vertical position. I was having the same problem and replaced all of my fuel lines and filters. Didnt touch the pumps as they are $500 each. Talked to a Yamaha tech today and he told me that Yamaha recommends you mound it this way. I did it and the damn thing is running great. Try it...It doesnt cost anything and may fix the problem.","Mount your primer bulb in a ve + +Mount your primer bulb in a vertical position. I was having the same problem and replaced all of my fuel lines and filters. Didnt touch the pumps as they are $500 each. Talked to a Yamaha tech today and he told me that Yamaha recommends you mound it this way. I did it and the damn thing is running great. Try it...It doesnt cost anything and may fix the problem.","rule of thump for a properly running 2 stroke at wot...10% of horse power per hour...a 55 should use 5.5 gallons per hour.. + +forget saving any gas money going to a 4 stroke....a 4 stroke rated at 6k rpm and run at 5.5k rpm is a gas hog..to get any kind of efficiency out of a 4 stroke it needs to be run at 4k or 4.5k...and then its no better than a 2 stroke..salesmen lie... + +keep in mind another thing..a 2 stroke engine is built to run at top end or near it..and if it is maintained it will do it for many years...I am currently running a 4stroke and if I did that I would have a pile of expensive junk in 3 years..just my opinion on this last statement..." +"""My 2004 F225 4-Stroke Yamaha + +""My 2004 F225 4-Stroke Yamaha (300 hrs) runs great cold, at all RPMs. After warm up, it idles rough - sounds like it's missing. Wide open, runs great. At low RPM's it spits and kicks, sounds like it is loading up and coughing out. + +When it is spitting and kicking at low RMPs, Fuel Pressure is bouncing from 40-45 PSIs, else it stays a solid 40. If you let the engine set a couple hours and go back out - it runs great again - until it warms up. + +I have replaced the fuel, filters, and separator. Also the spark plugs. + +Thoughts???""","Re: Mount your primer bulb in a ve + + + +k9grady said: + + + + Mount your primer bulb in a vertical position. I was having the same problem and replaced all of my fuel lines and filters. Didnt touch the pumps as they are $500 each. Talked to a Yamaha tech today and he told me that Yamaha recommends you mound it this way. I did it and the damn thing is running great. Try it...It doesnt cost anything and may fix the problem. + +Click to expand... + +When u say vertical is that flow in at bottom and flow out at top?","Re: Mount your primer bulb in a ve + + + +k9grady said: + + + + Mount your primer bulb in a vertical position. I was having the same problem and replaced all of my fuel lines and filters. Didnt touch the pumps as they are $500 each. Talked to a Yamaha tech today and he told me that Yamaha recommends you mound it this way. I did it and the damn thing is running great. Try it...It doesnt cost anything and may fix the problem. + +Click to expand... + +When u say vertical is that flow in at bottom and flow out at top?",Sounds like the pump has gone bad?? +"Hi all, I'm new here, and to old Yamahas, I'm more familiar with old evinrudes. I apologize for a maybe long winded post. + +I believe this to be a 1985-1986 Mariner 8M, but built by Yamaha. Parts fiches here list it as an 8B hp. I have a partial serial number (painted over) 677-0153 + +I got it in a trade, first thing I did was take the carb apart to make sure it's clean, and it looks like it was replaced after it's last outing (whenever that was) as there was no scent of fuel and none of the brass was discoloured. Everything was clear and I saw no problems. The fuel pump diaphragm looked good as well. I replaced the impeller and ran it in a tank for 30 minutes and all was well. + +I took it out this past weekend, and it started right up, idled well at the launch, and we set about the lake. Ran it at 3/4 throttle for about 5 minutes and brought it back to an idle and all was well. Went back to a 3/4 throtle run for a few minutes, ran it at WOT for a few minutes, then back to 3/4 throttle for a minute or 2 and back to an idle. At this point it sputtered out and died. + +Took the cowling off and fuel is dripping out of the carb. I managed to get it started and it would run, but not well and was spitting fuel out of the float bowl vent. Thought maybe the float was stuck, tapping the bowl with my multi tool made no difference. Got the boat back to the launch and back home and pulled the carb apart. I couldn't see anything jumping out at me, but I thought the float looked a little low so I adjusted the height. + +Next day I went back out to the lake to try again. It started easy again and idled, revved up ok, took it back out and it was good for probably 30 minutes at various throttle positions, coming back to an idle etc. Had it out for a 3/4 throttle run for about 15 minutes straight, and it sputtered out again. This time I didn't have any fuel spitting out the carb. The filter was full of fuel. It did eventually start again, and ran clear at higher revs, but didn't want to run much below 1/2 throttle. + +At this point I'm not sure what to check next. I'm not too familiar with these motors. Does anybody have any suggestions where to look next? + +Cheers, David","GGG vs Canelo 2 + +The two summit middleweight predators in world boxing impact again at the T-Mobile Arena in a battle that has held the boxing network. + + +Addressing BT Sport, Tyson Fury said of the session: + + +""Here's my forecast on Canelo against GGG. I think the main champ here is the fans. The fans are in for a genuine treat. We're the victors as boxing fans. Who wins the battle? Whoever needs to win it most, however I truly realize that the fans will win since you're getting two extraordinary bosses going El Mano v El Mano. They will crush each other to bits. The fans are the victors without exception. Expectation it's an extraordinary battle!"" + + +He's pretty spot on with that summation to be reasonable. + + +The battle is practically around the bend now with battle week develop expected next Tuesday from Las Vegas when the two boxers will make their fabulous landings in the T-Mobile in Sin City. + + +With respect to Fury, hope to see him out there conceivably on battle week as well. + + +It has been accounted for that he and Deontay Wilder could report their battle for December live from Las Vegas one week from now.","GGG vs Canelo 2 + +The two summit middleweight predators in world boxing impact again at the T-Mobile Arena in a battle that has held the boxing network. + + +Addressing BT Sport, Tyson Fury said of the session: + + +""Here's my forecast on Canelo against GGG. I think the main champ here is the fans. The fans are in for a genuine treat. We're the victors as boxing fans. Who wins the battle? Whoever needs to win it most, however I truly realize that the fans will win since you're getting two extraordinary bosses going El Mano v El Mano. They will crush each other to bits. The fans are the victors without exception. Expectation it's an extraordinary battle!"" + + +He's pretty spot on with that summation to be reasonable. + + +The battle is practically around the bend now with battle week develop expected next Tuesday from Las Vegas when the two boxers will make their fabulous landings in the T-Mobile in Sin City. + + +With respect to Fury, hope to see him out there conceivably on battle week as well. + + +It has been accounted for that he and Deontay Wilder could report their battle for December live from Las Vegas one week from now.",Where is my manual? +"First post for longtime lurker. I have a 225 sho the first oil change I did I tightened my oil drain by hand till snug. This time I used a torque wrench and new factory washer and torqued to 20 ft lbs. my concern is after the bolt was finger tight I got a full 1/4-3/8 of a turn out of it and it either felt like I was crushing the washer or stripping the threads my wrench clicked around the 1/4 turn or so. Basically is this indeed a crush washer the Yamaha factory drain bolt “Gasket” it looks like an aluminum washer like I have seen before but I was told these washers don’t crush so just hand snug it. + +20ftlbs +1/4 or a bit more turns after finger tight +New Yamaha drain plug gasket for motor + +did I do this right or booger it + +Never thought about it on any other thing I have changed oil on however reading horror stories of these plugs stripping gave me doubts lol + +FWIW I plan on using an extractor from here on out + +thanks","Keep removing and replacing the drain bolt and soon you won't have to be worrying about torque. + +Leave the bolt alone and start using the vacuum pump to extract the oil. The oil can usually be removed in less time than it takes to remove the drain plug. A lot less mess.","Keep removing and replacing the drain bolt and soon you won't have to be worrying about torque. + +Leave the bolt alone and start using the vacuum pump to extract the oil. The oil can usually be removed in less time than it takes to remove the drain plug. A lot less mess.","Below is an explanation of my wiring (I will try to keep it as simple as possible). + + + +HEATER is connected to WIRING HARNESS + + + +WIRING HARNESS is connected to PUMP: + +BROWN to PUMP +GREEN-RED to PUMP + + + +WIRING HARNESS is connected to HIGH ALTITUDE SENSOR: + +RED to RED +YELLOW to YELLOW +BROWN to BROWN +BLUE-WHITE to BLUE-WHITE + +On Harness side GREY-RED and BROWN-WHITE are tied together + +On Harness side BLUE, GREY, BLUE-PURPLE, RED-WHITE are tapped off + + + +HIGH ALTITUDE SENSOR is connected to EASY START SELECT controller: + +BLUE-WHITE to BLUE-WHITE +BROWN to BROWN +RED to RED + +On High Altitude Sensor side YELLOW not connected + +On Controller side GREY Taped off" +"First post for longtime lurker. I have a 225 sho the first oil change I did I tightened my oil drain by hand till snug. This time I used a torque wrench and new factory washer and torqued to 20 ft lbs. my concern is after the bolt was finger tight I got a full 1/4-3/8 of a turn out of it and it either felt like I was crushing the washer or stripping the threads my wrench clicked around the 1/4 turn or so. Basically is this indeed a crush washer the Yamaha factory drain bolt “Gasket” it looks like an aluminum washer like I have seen before but I was told these washers don’t crush so just hand snug it. + +20ftlbs +1/4 or a bit more turns after finger tight +New Yamaha drain plug gasket for motor + +did I do this right or booger it + +Never thought about it on any other thing I have changed oil on however reading horror stories of these plugs stripping gave me doubts lol + +FWIW I plan on using an extractor from here on out + +thanks","Yeah I plan on pumping it out from here on out. I have changed oil on a bunch of stuff with aluminum pans but it sounds like these ones are really soft. I was just wanting to see if anyone else has used this spec before and ensure I didn’t already destroy the threads. I would imagine if they were gone my wrench wouldn’t have clicked. If this washer is indeed a crush washer like it looks like then I doubt any damage was done. + +Is the mity vac the way to go for an extractor or will the cheaper electric pumps off amazon hold up for a while?","Yeah I plan on pumping it out from here on out. I have changed oil on a bunch of stuff with aluminum pans but it sounds like these ones are really soft. I was just wanting to see if anyone else has used this spec before and ensure I didn’t already destroy the threads. I would imagine if they were gone my wrench wouldn’t have clicked. If this washer is indeed a crush washer like it looks like then I doubt any damage was done. + +Is the mity vac the way to go for an extractor or will the cheaper electric pumps off amazon hold up for a while?","And unless the boat stays under cover when not in use, make sure what ever you select is rated high on UV tolerance..." +"First post for longtime lurker. I have a 225 sho the first oil change I did I tightened my oil drain by hand till snug. This time I used a torque wrench and new factory washer and torqued to 20 ft lbs. my concern is after the bolt was finger tight I got a full 1/4-3/8 of a turn out of it and it either felt like I was crushing the washer or stripping the threads my wrench clicked around the 1/4 turn or so. Basically is this indeed a crush washer the Yamaha factory drain bolt “Gasket” it looks like an aluminum washer like I have seen before but I was told these washers don’t crush so just hand snug it. + +20ftlbs +1/4 or a bit more turns after finger tight +New Yamaha drain plug gasket for motor + +did I do this right or booger it + +Never thought about it on any other thing I have changed oil on however reading horror stories of these plugs stripping gave me doubts lol + +FWIW I plan on using an extractor from here on out + +thanks","19.9 lb-ft is the torque value. Not a lot really. + +The threads seem to strip not from an excessive once or twice overtightening event but rather from over time.","19.9 lb-ft is the torque value. Not a lot really. + +The threads seem to strip not from an excessive once or twice overtightening event but rather from over time.", +"First post for longtime lurker. I have a 225 sho the first oil change I did I tightened my oil drain by hand till snug. This time I used a torque wrench and new factory washer and torqued to 20 ft lbs. my concern is after the bolt was finger tight I got a full 1/4-3/8 of a turn out of it and it either felt like I was crushing the washer or stripping the threads my wrench clicked around the 1/4 turn or so. Basically is this indeed a crush washer the Yamaha factory drain bolt “Gasket” it looks like an aluminum washer like I have seen before but I was told these washers don’t crush so just hand snug it. + +20ftlbs +1/4 or a bit more turns after finger tight +New Yamaha drain plug gasket for motor + +did I do this right or booger it + +Never thought about it on any other thing I have changed oil on however reading horror stories of these plugs stripping gave me doubts lol + +FWIW I plan on using an extractor from here on out + +thanks",Yeah gonna avoid that and pump it thanks for the info.,Yeah gonna avoid that and pump it thanks for the info.,"There is a location for temp sender on each bank. The section in your service manual titled ""power unit"" will identify these 2 locations on the schematic." +"https://youtu.be/JXJkPCNbr3s + +I bought an old outboard that I'm fixing up - a 2-stroke Yamaha 30 HP. Compression is fine, but not running on all cylinders but I think a card cleanup will take care of that. However, when running the engine, water comes out of 2 of the screws connecting the lower unit to the top unit. How big of a problem is this, and what's the remedy? + +You can see a video of the water leakage here: https://youtu.be/JXJkPCNbr3s + +Thanks in advance.",The motor has ignition issues.----Check spark first.,The motor has ignition issues.----Check spark first.,Yeah I'd give the deck a good soapy wash down to remove fuel residue. +"I am having a devil of a time diagnosing an overheat on my 2004 Yamaha VMAX 150 (model number V150TLRC ). Initially, I had two problems – poor carb adjustment and an engine alarm (either overheat or oil alarm). + +During my troubleshooting, I cleaned and adjusted the three carbs. That problem is solved. And engine runs a lot better now! + +Still have the engine alarm to deal with. My gauges don’t tell me if it’s oil or heat causing the alarm, so I replaced the oil pump as it was old. Problem was still there. I used an IR heat gun on the heads during the next alarm, and the temp was in the high 160 range if I recall correctly. So – overheat. This is a 2004 and I run her in salt water on the Texas Gulf Coast, so I decided to replace a lot of the parts as they are over 10 years old. + + +Replaced Water Separating Fuel Filter +Checked Fuel Ball – all okay +Checked fuel flow to carbs (using Fuel Ball) – all good +Replaced Oil Pump (remote tank) +Replaced Spark Plugs +Replaced fuel pumps +Replaced Thermostats +Cleaned Poppet valve + +I thought I might have a lean mixture problem, so I ran the boat this weekend and adjusted the fuel screws to a very rich mixture (4 turns out from closed). Still had an overheat. + +Last night I removed the head covers and heads and inspected cooling passages. Everything looked pretty good for a 14 year old motor. No significant blockages. +The impeller has less than 8 hours on it, and the tell-tale is streaming water at full strength. Everything seems to be just as it should be, but I am consistently getting the overheat and limp mode after 5 minutes of operation at 4000 rpm. Allowing the engine to idle for 10 to 20 seconds will cool the engine enough for the alarm to turn off. + +Anyone have any ideas of what the problem might be? I am totally stumped. +Rob","Here are some links to show the condition of the cylinder passages and the head cover passages: + +https://photos.app.goo.gl/CY9cg33RjenRhapd7 + +https://photos.app.goo.gl/3FHF4KxM64snYJzY7 + +https://photos.app.goo.gl/w4h95SC8sTwsXDmu9","Here are some links to show the condition of the cylinder passages and the head cover passages: + +https://photos.app.goo.gl/CY9cg33RjenRhapd7 + +https://photos.app.goo.gl/3FHF4KxM64snYJzY7 + +https://photos.app.goo.gl/w4h95SC8sTwsXDmu9","If it's an old sea star system, the pump in the helm units have a pressure release valve that will ""pop"" when the cylinder hits either of its mechanical limits...it could have 'froze' open or just busted. The cylinders are pretty much bullet-proof unless they have a side load induced upon them. + +If you are gonna take it to a hydraulic shop, you only need to take the pump, the wheel, and the cylinder..." +"I am having a devil of a time diagnosing an overheat on my 2004 Yamaha VMAX 150 (model number V150TLRC ). Initially, I had two problems – poor carb adjustment and an engine alarm (either overheat or oil alarm). + +During my troubleshooting, I cleaned and adjusted the three carbs. That problem is solved. And engine runs a lot better now! + +Still have the engine alarm to deal with. My gauges don’t tell me if it’s oil or heat causing the alarm, so I replaced the oil pump as it was old. Problem was still there. I used an IR heat gun on the heads during the next alarm, and the temp was in the high 160 range if I recall correctly. So – overheat. This is a 2004 and I run her in salt water on the Texas Gulf Coast, so I decided to replace a lot of the parts as they are over 10 years old. + + +Replaced Water Separating Fuel Filter +Checked Fuel Ball – all okay +Checked fuel flow to carbs (using Fuel Ball) – all good +Replaced Oil Pump (remote tank) +Replaced Spark Plugs +Replaced fuel pumps +Replaced Thermostats +Cleaned Poppet valve + +I thought I might have a lean mixture problem, so I ran the boat this weekend and adjusted the fuel screws to a very rich mixture (4 turns out from closed). Still had an overheat. + +Last night I removed the head covers and heads and inspected cooling passages. Everything looked pretty good for a 14 year old motor. No significant blockages. +The impeller has less than 8 hours on it, and the tell-tale is streaming water at full strength. Everything seems to be just as it should be, but I am consistently getting the overheat and limp mode after 5 minutes of operation at 4000 rpm. Allowing the engine to idle for 10 to 20 seconds will cool the engine enough for the alarm to turn off. + +Anyone have any ideas of what the problem might be? I am totally stumped. +Rob",You haven't mentioned thermostats and have you checked the poppet valve which should allow extra cooling water through at higher rpm?,You haven't mentioned thermostats and have you checked the poppet valve which should allow extra cooling water through at higher rpm?,"boscoe said: + + + + Yes. As annotated. + +Click to expand... + + + +If the FF/GPS is NMEA 2000 compatible, and provides the SAME data as the Yamaha Command Link Gauge, I would not need the gauge...correct? +I may install both, but want to know if they would BOTH be providing SAME motor data. + +Thanks!" +"I am having a devil of a time diagnosing an overheat on my 2004 Yamaha VMAX 150 (model number V150TLRC ). Initially, I had two problems – poor carb adjustment and an engine alarm (either overheat or oil alarm). + +During my troubleshooting, I cleaned and adjusted the three carbs. That problem is solved. And engine runs a lot better now! + +Still have the engine alarm to deal with. My gauges don’t tell me if it’s oil or heat causing the alarm, so I replaced the oil pump as it was old. Problem was still there. I used an IR heat gun on the heads during the next alarm, and the temp was in the high 160 range if I recall correctly. So – overheat. This is a 2004 and I run her in salt water on the Texas Gulf Coast, so I decided to replace a lot of the parts as they are over 10 years old. + + +Replaced Water Separating Fuel Filter +Checked Fuel Ball – all okay +Checked fuel flow to carbs (using Fuel Ball) – all good +Replaced Oil Pump (remote tank) +Replaced Spark Plugs +Replaced fuel pumps +Replaced Thermostats +Cleaned Poppet valve + +I thought I might have a lean mixture problem, so I ran the boat this weekend and adjusted the fuel screws to a very rich mixture (4 turns out from closed). Still had an overheat. + +Last night I removed the head covers and heads and inspected cooling passages. Everything looked pretty good for a 14 year old motor. No significant blockages. +The impeller has less than 8 hours on it, and the tell-tale is streaming water at full strength. Everything seems to be just as it should be, but I am consistently getting the overheat and limp mode after 5 minutes of operation at 4000 rpm. Allowing the engine to idle for 10 to 20 seconds will cool the engine enough for the alarm to turn off. + +Anyone have any ideas of what the problem might be? I am totally stumped. +Rob","Sorry, disregard that, just re read your post. Try disconnecting the temp sensors and run it hard for a short while to see if it is actually getting hot, it could be a faulty sensor.","Sorry, disregard that, just re read your post. Try disconnecting the temp sensors and run it hard for a short while to see if it is actually getting hot, it could be a faulty sensor.",No....you will know when limp mode triggers cause the motor shakes violently. +"I am having a devil of a time diagnosing an overheat on my 2004 Yamaha VMAX 150 (model number V150TLRC ). Initially, I had two problems – poor carb adjustment and an engine alarm (either overheat or oil alarm). + +During my troubleshooting, I cleaned and adjusted the three carbs. That problem is solved. And engine runs a lot better now! + +Still have the engine alarm to deal with. My gauges don’t tell me if it’s oil or heat causing the alarm, so I replaced the oil pump as it was old. Problem was still there. I used an IR heat gun on the heads during the next alarm, and the temp was in the high 160 range if I recall correctly. So – overheat. This is a 2004 and I run her in salt water on the Texas Gulf Coast, so I decided to replace a lot of the parts as they are over 10 years old. + + +Replaced Water Separating Fuel Filter +Checked Fuel Ball – all okay +Checked fuel flow to carbs (using Fuel Ball) – all good +Replaced Oil Pump (remote tank) +Replaced Spark Plugs +Replaced fuel pumps +Replaced Thermostats +Cleaned Poppet valve + +I thought I might have a lean mixture problem, so I ran the boat this weekend and adjusted the fuel screws to a very rich mixture (4 turns out from closed). Still had an overheat. + +Last night I removed the head covers and heads and inspected cooling passages. Everything looked pretty good for a 14 year old motor. No significant blockages. +The impeller has less than 8 hours on it, and the tell-tale is streaming water at full strength. Everything seems to be just as it should be, but I am consistently getting the overheat and limp mode after 5 minutes of operation at 4000 rpm. Allowing the engine to idle for 10 to 20 seconds will cool the engine enough for the alarm to turn off. + +Anyone have any ideas of what the problem might be? I am totally stumped. +Rob","Thanks iang6766 - I have checked the temp on the heads with an thermal infra red gun and they do get hot enough to sound an alarm, so the sensor seem to be acting correctly. + +I bought access to the Yamaha manual through this website and I am following the troubleshooting steps. I just cleared out all the cooling passages and ensured water was flowing to each cylinder bank. The water seems to flow a little better on the Left bank, and the Right bank seems to get about 80% of the flow that the Left gets. I don't think that's enough to cause an overheat, but it's worth noting. I also don't know if that's just normal for this engine, or if there may some restriction deeper in the motor. + +My next step, now that I have cleaned the water passages in the head and around the cylinders, is to install the new head gaskets and see if the problem is still present. Should be pretty easy to tell after a little testing. + +Any other suggestions anyone? + +Rob","Thanks iang6766 - I have checked the temp on the heads with an thermal infra red gun and they do get hot enough to sound an alarm, so the sensor seem to be acting correctly. + +I bought access to the Yamaha manual through this website and I am following the troubleshooting steps. I just cleared out all the cooling passages and ensured water was flowing to each cylinder bank. The water seems to flow a little better on the Left bank, and the Right bank seems to get about 80% of the flow that the Left gets. I don't think that's enough to cause an overheat, but it's worth noting. I also don't know if that's just normal for this engine, or if there may some restriction deeper in the motor. + +My next step, now that I have cleaned the water passages in the head and around the cylinders, is to install the new head gaskets and see if the problem is still present. Should be pretty easy to tell after a little testing. + +Any other suggestions anyone? + +Rob",This is the sort of thing I was looking at. https://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/methods_liquidfoam.html +"I am having a devil of a time diagnosing an overheat on my 2004 Yamaha VMAX 150 (model number V150TLRC ). Initially, I had two problems – poor carb adjustment and an engine alarm (either overheat or oil alarm). + +During my troubleshooting, I cleaned and adjusted the three carbs. That problem is solved. And engine runs a lot better now! + +Still have the engine alarm to deal with. My gauges don’t tell me if it’s oil or heat causing the alarm, so I replaced the oil pump as it was old. Problem was still there. I used an IR heat gun on the heads during the next alarm, and the temp was in the high 160 range if I recall correctly. So – overheat. This is a 2004 and I run her in salt water on the Texas Gulf Coast, so I decided to replace a lot of the parts as they are over 10 years old. + + +Replaced Water Separating Fuel Filter +Checked Fuel Ball – all okay +Checked fuel flow to carbs (using Fuel Ball) – all good +Replaced Oil Pump (remote tank) +Replaced Spark Plugs +Replaced fuel pumps +Replaced Thermostats +Cleaned Poppet valve + +I thought I might have a lean mixture problem, so I ran the boat this weekend and adjusted the fuel screws to a very rich mixture (4 turns out from closed). Still had an overheat. + +Last night I removed the head covers and heads and inspected cooling passages. Everything looked pretty good for a 14 year old motor. No significant blockages. +The impeller has less than 8 hours on it, and the tell-tale is streaming water at full strength. Everything seems to be just as it should be, but I am consistently getting the overheat and limp mode after 5 minutes of operation at 4000 rpm. Allowing the engine to idle for 10 to 20 seconds will cool the engine enough for the alarm to turn off. + +Anyone have any ideas of what the problem might be? I am totally stumped. +Rob","Soooooo- new headgaskets and head cover gaskets. All the water passages are clean, waterflow is good, and new thermostats are functioning. My IR heat gun shows the head covers at 128 degrees at idle. Both sides show this now, which is good. + +I ran her at about 3000 rpm on the trailer at the ramp last night for 10 minutes - no overheat problem. I think launched her and did a few laps in the area close to the launch. in less than 5 minutes, the overheat alarm came on and the boat went into limp mode. It recovered within 20 seconds when I put her to idle. I couldn't even get the cover off to take a heat reading on the heads before the alarm silenced itself. + +I am beginning to think it is either a bad temp sensor, or a bad poppet valve. I plan to test the heat sensors today. I have a poppet valve on order. I also plan to change out the 4 month old impeller, just in case. + +Any other possible ideas guys? This is getting to be an epic freakin' troubleshoot. + +Rob","Soooooo- new headgaskets and head cover gaskets. All the water passages are clean, waterflow is good, and new thermostats are functioning. My IR heat gun shows the head covers at 128 degrees at idle. Both sides show this now, which is good. + +I ran her at about 3000 rpm on the trailer at the ramp last night for 10 minutes - no overheat problem. I think launched her and did a few laps in the area close to the launch. in less than 5 minutes, the overheat alarm came on and the boat went into limp mode. It recovered within 20 seconds when I put her to idle. I couldn't even get the cover off to take a heat reading on the heads before the alarm silenced itself. + +I am beginning to think it is either a bad temp sensor, or a bad poppet valve. I plan to test the heat sensors today. I have a poppet valve on order. I also plan to change out the 4 month old impeller, just in case. + +Any other possible ideas guys? This is getting to be an epic freakin' troubleshoot. + +Rob","Hey, PAL, + +Thought I would add a little chart showing battery charge state. + +State of Charge12 Volt batteryVolts per Cell100%12.72.1290%12.52.0880%12.422.0770%12.322.0560%12.22.0350%12.062.0140%11.91.9830%11.751.9620%11.581.9310%11.311.89010.51.75 + +As you can see, 12 VDC output of a ""fully charged battery"" is low, actually less than 50% charged......." +"I am having a devil of a time diagnosing an overheat on my 2004 Yamaha VMAX 150 (model number V150TLRC ). Initially, I had two problems – poor carb adjustment and an engine alarm (either overheat or oil alarm). + +During my troubleshooting, I cleaned and adjusted the three carbs. That problem is solved. And engine runs a lot better now! + +Still have the engine alarm to deal with. My gauges don’t tell me if it’s oil or heat causing the alarm, so I replaced the oil pump as it was old. Problem was still there. I used an IR heat gun on the heads during the next alarm, and the temp was in the high 160 range if I recall correctly. So – overheat. This is a 2004 and I run her in salt water on the Texas Gulf Coast, so I decided to replace a lot of the parts as they are over 10 years old. + + +Replaced Water Separating Fuel Filter +Checked Fuel Ball – all okay +Checked fuel flow to carbs (using Fuel Ball) – all good +Replaced Oil Pump (remote tank) +Replaced Spark Plugs +Replaced fuel pumps +Replaced Thermostats +Cleaned Poppet valve + +I thought I might have a lean mixture problem, so I ran the boat this weekend and adjusted the fuel screws to a very rich mixture (4 turns out from closed). Still had an overheat. + +Last night I removed the head covers and heads and inspected cooling passages. Everything looked pretty good for a 14 year old motor. No significant blockages. +The impeller has less than 8 hours on it, and the tell-tale is streaming water at full strength. Everything seems to be just as it should be, but I am consistently getting the overheat and limp mode after 5 minutes of operation at 4000 rpm. Allowing the engine to idle for 10 to 20 seconds will cool the engine enough for the alarm to turn off. + +Anyone have any ideas of what the problem might be? I am totally stumped. +Rob",Your last resort will be to remove the exhaust plate and and inspect the little cooling water slots in there and failing that you will have to remove the powerhead and checjk where water passes through the sandwich plate.,Your last resort will be to remove the exhaust plate and and inspect the little cooling water slots in there and failing that you will have to remove the powerhead and checjk where water passes through the sandwich plate.,Noone ? +"I am having a devil of a time diagnosing an overheat on my 2004 Yamaha VMAX 150 (model number V150TLRC ). Initially, I had two problems – poor carb adjustment and an engine alarm (either overheat or oil alarm). + +During my troubleshooting, I cleaned and adjusted the three carbs. That problem is solved. And engine runs a lot better now! + +Still have the engine alarm to deal with. My gauges don’t tell me if it’s oil or heat causing the alarm, so I replaced the oil pump as it was old. Problem was still there. I used an IR heat gun on the heads during the next alarm, and the temp was in the high 160 range if I recall correctly. So – overheat. This is a 2004 and I run her in salt water on the Texas Gulf Coast, so I decided to replace a lot of the parts as they are over 10 years old. + + +Replaced Water Separating Fuel Filter +Checked Fuel Ball – all okay +Checked fuel flow to carbs (using Fuel Ball) – all good +Replaced Oil Pump (remote tank) +Replaced Spark Plugs +Replaced fuel pumps +Replaced Thermostats +Cleaned Poppet valve + +I thought I might have a lean mixture problem, so I ran the boat this weekend and adjusted the fuel screws to a very rich mixture (4 turns out from closed). Still had an overheat. + +Last night I removed the head covers and heads and inspected cooling passages. Everything looked pretty good for a 14 year old motor. No significant blockages. +The impeller has less than 8 hours on it, and the tell-tale is streaming water at full strength. Everything seems to be just as it should be, but I am consistently getting the overheat and limp mode after 5 minutes of operation at 4000 rpm. Allowing the engine to idle for 10 to 20 seconds will cool the engine enough for the alarm to turn off. + +Anyone have any ideas of what the problem might be? I am totally stumped. +Rob","iang6766 said: + + + + Your last resort will be to remove the exhaust plate and and inspect the little cooling water slots in there and failing that you will have to remove the powerhead and checjk where water passes through the sandwich plate. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you IanG - I will put that on the list. + +This weekend I tested both thermoswitches extensively - they both operate within spec, so they appear to be reporting the overheat correctly. + +I had a spare impeller, so I changed it out. The water flow out the tell tale was much stronger than it was previously, so I am beginning to suspect a worn impleller that was not getting enough flow through the powerhead at higher RPMs. + +I will keep this thread updated in case other VMAX 150 owners in the future run into this problem. + +Thanks all for the advice! + +Rob","iang6766 said: + + + + Your last resort will be to remove the exhaust plate and and inspect the little cooling water slots in there and failing that you will have to remove the powerhead and checjk where water passes through the sandwich plate. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you IanG - I will put that on the list. + +This weekend I tested both thermoswitches extensively - they both operate within spec, so they appear to be reporting the overheat correctly. + +I had a spare impeller, so I changed it out. The water flow out the tell tale was much stronger than it was previously, so I am beginning to suspect a worn impleller that was not getting enough flow through the powerhead at higher RPMs. + +I will keep this thread updated in case other VMAX 150 owners in the future run into this problem. + +Thanks all for the advice! + +Rob","All I Want to do Is FISH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! + +That is me, to" +"My 25hp yama had been running, then one day battery was toast. Replaced same, all good. +a couple of weeks later, battery was low again, but it ran fine +last week, began to run rough, hard start when warm, stalling when going from higher speed to idle. Then crank/no start or hard start. +Today I put a charger on battery and checked compression (~170-190), new plugs2 days ago looked good. Put plugs in and started. It then stalled, and when I tried to restart had no crank/no start. No electric choke op, etc. checked fuses, ok. Pull started ok, but still ran like crap. What do I chase for no crank? +new member with some outboard repair history.","Sounds like you're dealing with issues from 2 separate systems...electrical and fuel. Definitely need to troubleshoot electrical first, if you choose to continue to use electric starter. Pull-start engines don't need a battery, so you could go about troubleshooting that way by isolating one system issue at a time. Regardless to your approach, these 2 systems don't overlap...either you've got an issue with electric, issue with fuel, or issue with both. Be that as it may, troubleshooting is specific to the system. Does that make sense?","Sounds like you're dealing with issues from 2 separate systems...electrical and fuel. Definitely need to troubleshoot electrical first, if you choose to continue to use electric starter. Pull-start engines don't need a battery, so you could go about troubleshooting that way by isolating one system issue at a time. Regardless to your approach, these 2 systems don't overlap...either you've got an issue with electric, issue with fuel, or issue with both. Be that as it may, troubleshooting is specific to the system. Does that make sense?","RED, BROWN, ( its not purple) to BLACK ..... BLUE to WHITE ...SHIELD to SHIELD WORKS GREAT....RED IS VOLTAGE OUT.. BROWN IS VOLTGE OUT TO THE GAUGE ...BLACK IS VOLTAGE INPUT ..BLUE AND WHITE IS TRANSDUCER SIGNAL ..SHIELD TO SHIELD IS GROUND" +"My 25hp yama had been running, then one day battery was toast. Replaced same, all good. +a couple of weeks later, battery was low again, but it ran fine +last week, began to run rough, hard start when warm, stalling when going from higher speed to idle. Then crank/no start or hard start. +Today I put a charger on battery and checked compression (~170-190), new plugs2 days ago looked good. Put plugs in and started. It then stalled, and when I tried to restart had no crank/no start. No electric choke op, etc. checked fuses, ok. Pull started ok, but still ran like crap. What do I chase for no crank? +new member with some outboard repair history.","classic a, thanks for the response. I know I’ve got two issues but I’m trying to find where to look for the starting issue as I’ve just had shoulder surgery. Also I didn’t know if I could have fried an electric component when I had a charger on the battery at the same time the engine started. Start problem began immediately after that. No crank or electric choke ops.","classic a, thanks for the response. I know I’ve got two issues but I’m trying to find where to look for the starting issue as I’ve just had shoulder surgery. Also I didn’t know if I could have fried an electric component when I had a charger on the battery at the same time the engine started. Start problem began immediately after that. No crank or electric choke ops.",i have had excellent results with west marine over the years...if you can take a part in then if they dont have it they will order it...knowledgeable people and a no questions asked return policy...the local store has 4-5 different fuel sender units and meters in stock...i have no skin in their game..just good service from them...most freshwater fishermen dont even know they are in town..all their advertising is pointed toward large boats... +"My 25hp yama had been running, then one day battery was toast. Replaced same, all good. +a couple of weeks later, battery was low again, but it ran fine +last week, began to run rough, hard start when warm, stalling when going from higher speed to idle. Then crank/no start or hard start. +Today I put a charger on battery and checked compression (~170-190), new plugs2 days ago looked good. Put plugs in and started. It then stalled, and when I tried to restart had no crank/no start. No electric choke op, etc. checked fuses, ok. Pull started ok, but still ran like crap. What do I chase for no crank? +new member with some outboard repair history.","Ericthered said: + + + + classic a, thanks for the response. I know I’ve got two issues but I’m trying to find where to look for the starting issue as I’ve just had shoulder surgery. Also I didn’t know if I could have fried an electric component when I had a charger on the battery at the same time the engine started. Start problem began immediately after that. No crank or electric choke ops. + +Click to expand... + + +How do your battery terminals look? Have you cleaned them lately? If so, how does the connection on the battery cable look? if it's cracked and has been exposed to seawater, I'd recommend you reterminate the cables with new connectors. + +Agree with ClassicAQ - work one issue at a time to the end.","Ericthered said: + + + + classic a, thanks for the response. I know I’ve got two issues but I’m trying to find where to look for the starting issue as I’ve just had shoulder surgery. Also I didn’t know if I could have fried an electric component when I had a charger on the battery at the same time the engine started. Start problem began immediately after that. No crank or electric choke ops. + +Click to expand... + + +How do your battery terminals look? Have you cleaned them lately? If so, how does the connection on the battery cable look? if it's cracked and has been exposed to seawater, I'd recommend you reterminate the cables with new connectors. + +Agree with ClassicAQ - work one issue at a time to the end.",Replace the lines. +"I recentury purchased a 15 ft whaler with a 2013 60 HP Yamaha 4 stroke. When I bought it the engine only had 53 hours on it and it now has 69 hours and was running great. The other night it started to stutter and shut off. I figured out that there were some gaskets on the gas tank that was letting air in and the fuel line was basically sucking more air than gas, so I switched to one of my other external tanks. The rest of the night it ran fine. The next time I went out the engine would only get up to 4,000 RPM’s and seemed like it was running louder and struggling. It’s pumping plenty of water and never stuttered or sounded like it was going to stall. Back at the dock I tested it in neutral and it had no problem getting up to 6,000 RPM’s. The previous owner did install an in line fuel/water filter. Any advice is appreciated as I don’t know much about outboards, more of a sailer. Also I have been using fuel treatment and just filled the gas tank a few days prior from a station that is pretty busy so I’m guessing it’s not a fuel issue.","Hi impag - +I'm a sailer too, so I feel your pain. I would definitely get a water-separating fuel filter on there as quickly as you can, if for no other reason than as a troubleshooting point. + +Did you check the fuel ball to see if it is collapsed when the engine stutters? If so, you may have a clogged vent on that tank, and it could be impeding the flow of fuel to the carb. + +Rob","Hi impag - +I'm a sailer too, so I feel your pain. I would definitely get a water-separating fuel filter on there as quickly as you can, if for no other reason than as a troubleshooting point. + +Did you check the fuel ball to see if it is collapsed when the engine stutters? If so, you may have a clogged vent on that tank, and it could be impeding the flow of fuel to the carb. + +Rob",http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/15a/651300100-and-below-ml +"I recentury purchased a 15 ft whaler with a 2013 60 HP Yamaha 4 stroke. When I bought it the engine only had 53 hours on it and it now has 69 hours and was running great. The other night it started to stutter and shut off. I figured out that there were some gaskets on the gas tank that was letting air in and the fuel line was basically sucking more air than gas, so I switched to one of my other external tanks. The rest of the night it ran fine. The next time I went out the engine would only get up to 4,000 RPM’s and seemed like it was running louder and struggling. It’s pumping plenty of water and never stuttered or sounded like it was going to stall. Back at the dock I tested it in neutral and it had no problem getting up to 6,000 RPM’s. The previous owner did install an in line fuel/water filter. Any advice is appreciated as I don’t know much about outboards, more of a sailer. Also I have been using fuel treatment and just filled the gas tank a few days prior from a station that is pretty busy so I’m guessing it’s not a fuel issue.","Rob- + +There is a water-separating fuel filter installed so we are good there. Should the fuel ball feel completely full when the engine is running? I did try squeezing with the engine running and it was fairly easy to squeeze. I have a 3 tank I can attach it to and see if the vent is clogged. Thank you.","Rob- + +There is a water-separating fuel filter installed so we are good there. Should the fuel ball feel completely full when the engine is running? I did try squeezing with the engine running and it was fairly easy to squeeze. I have a 3 tank I can attach it to and see if the vent is clogged. Thank you.","Need more info,type of hull,Was boat covered,First trip this year in boat,Did it rain day before,possible compartments draining into bilge. If possible fill deck with water and check outside hull for seepage.hope this helps." +"I recentury purchased a 15 ft whaler with a 2013 60 HP Yamaha 4 stroke. When I bought it the engine only had 53 hours on it and it now has 69 hours and was running great. The other night it started to stutter and shut off. I figured out that there were some gaskets on the gas tank that was letting air in and the fuel line was basically sucking more air than gas, so I switched to one of my other external tanks. The rest of the night it ran fine. The next time I went out the engine would only get up to 4,000 RPM’s and seemed like it was running louder and struggling. It’s pumping plenty of water and never stuttered or sounded like it was going to stall. Back at the dock I tested it in neutral and it had no problem getting up to 6,000 RPM’s. The previous owner did install an in line fuel/water filter. Any advice is appreciated as I don’t know much about outboards, more of a sailer. Also I have been using fuel treatment and just filled the gas tank a few days prior from a station that is pretty busy so I’m guessing it’s not a fuel issue.","impag10 said: + + + + Rob- + +There is a water-separating fuel filter installed so we are good there. Should the fuel ball feel completely full when the engine is running? I did try squeezing with the engine running and it was fairly easy to squeeze. I have a 3 tank I can attach it to and see if the vent is clogged. Thank you. + +Click to expand... + + +The fuel ball won't feel solid as there's no pump between it and the tank. It's in more of a slight vacuum state, as the fuel pump on the engine is ""pulling"" fuel from the tank through the fuel primer ball. Once in a while, if the vent on the tank is clogged, the primer ball can collapse as the the engine pulls more fuel than the tank can provide,a nd that causes fuel starvation. A mechanic at the shop mentioned to me that it was a common cause. + +If you are comparing this to an auxiliar diesel, you'll find that outboards are not as susceptible to air in the fuel. Air in the fuel line on a diesel will pretty much shut it down, but my experience, outboards are more tolerant. But to your notes above, if it's pulling more air than gas, that'll be a problem and will likely manifest itself more under load/high rpm. Were you able to replace the gaskets and/or connections between the tank and the engine? + +If you can get the engine to run reliably on one tank, but the other tank routinely causes the engine to lose power under load, it's most likely the fuel in the tank, or something about the line delivering the fuel. Ethanol has caused me a lot of problems on my carbuerated engines if they sit.","impag10 said: + + + + Rob- + +There is a water-separating fuel filter installed so we are good there. Should the fuel ball feel completely full when the engine is running? I did try squeezing with the engine running and it was fairly easy to squeeze. I have a 3 tank I can attach it to and see if the vent is clogged. Thank you. + +Click to expand... + + +The fuel ball won't feel solid as there's no pump between it and the tank. It's in more of a slight vacuum state, as the fuel pump on the engine is ""pulling"" fuel from the tank through the fuel primer ball. Once in a while, if the vent on the tank is clogged, the primer ball can collapse as the the engine pulls more fuel than the tank can provide,a nd that causes fuel starvation. A mechanic at the shop mentioned to me that it was a common cause. + +If you are comparing this to an auxiliar diesel, you'll find that outboards are not as susceptible to air in the fuel. Air in the fuel line on a diesel will pretty much shut it down, but my experience, outboards are more tolerant. But to your notes above, if it's pulling more air than gas, that'll be a problem and will likely manifest itself more under load/high rpm. Were you able to replace the gaskets and/or connections between the tank and the engine? + +If you can get the engine to run reliably on one tank, but the other tank routinely causes the engine to lose power under load, it's most likely the fuel in the tank, or something about the line delivering the fuel. Ethanol has caused me a lot of problems on my carbuerated engines if they sit.",Thanks. I'll check them out. +"I recentury purchased a 15 ft whaler with a 2013 60 HP Yamaha 4 stroke. When I bought it the engine only had 53 hours on it and it now has 69 hours and was running great. The other night it started to stutter and shut off. I figured out that there were some gaskets on the gas tank that was letting air in and the fuel line was basically sucking more air than gas, so I switched to one of my other external tanks. The rest of the night it ran fine. The next time I went out the engine would only get up to 4,000 RPM’s and seemed like it was running louder and struggling. It’s pumping plenty of water and never stuttered or sounded like it was going to stall. Back at the dock I tested it in neutral and it had no problem getting up to 6,000 RPM’s. The previous owner did install an in line fuel/water filter. Any advice is appreciated as I don’t know much about outboards, more of a sailer. Also I have been using fuel treatment and just filled the gas tank a few days prior from a station that is pretty busy so I’m guessing it’s not a fuel issue.","Rob + +Thanks for the help. I think the vent was clogged. First I checked both ends of the gas line and they seemed fine. Then I completely unscrewed the vent and screwed it back in to where it still was open. As soon as I hit the throttle everything was back to normal.","Rob + +Thanks for the help. I think the vent was clogged. First I checked both ends of the gas line and they seemed fine. Then I completely unscrewed the vent and screwed it back in to where it still was open. As soon as I hit the throttle everything was back to normal.","Are you referring to a light, an icon or some sort of message? + +What type of tachometer is it?" +"I recentury purchased a 15 ft whaler with a 2013 60 HP Yamaha 4 stroke. When I bought it the engine only had 53 hours on it and it now has 69 hours and was running great. The other night it started to stutter and shut off. I figured out that there were some gaskets on the gas tank that was letting air in and the fuel line was basically sucking more air than gas, so I switched to one of my other external tanks. The rest of the night it ran fine. The next time I went out the engine would only get up to 4,000 RPM’s and seemed like it was running louder and struggling. It’s pumping plenty of water and never stuttered or sounded like it was going to stall. Back at the dock I tested it in neutral and it had no problem getting up to 6,000 RPM’s. The previous owner did install an in line fuel/water filter. Any advice is appreciated as I don’t know much about outboards, more of a sailer. Also I have been using fuel treatment and just filled the gas tank a few days prior from a station that is pretty busy so I’m guessing it’s not a fuel issue.",Great to hear - happy motoring!,Great to hear - happy motoring!,"I have the same issue, can't remove the pickup tube. Has anyone figured this out. + +Thanks for the help." +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","Try swapping the 2 you have,also check to see if you have 12 volts at relays and 12 volts on green wire going into motor","Try swapping the 2 you have,also check to see if you have 12 volts at relays and 12 volts on green wire going into motor",I have a 1990 Fisher 18gt boat. Where is the fuel sending unit located? Thanks. +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","Not sure what you mean ""Try swapping the 2 you have""... I only have one engine with one relay box... (maybe you mean swap the up and down power wires going to the tilt motor?)... Today I will be opening the engine up and will check the voltages... I assume I have two ""relay activation"" inputs (one for tilt up and one for tilt down coming from the up/down switch on the side of the outboard motor itself), a common ground wire and TWO ""motor power wires"" going to the tilt motor. I should start by checking the working tilt up control wires/inputs first. For up tilt, when I press the tilt up button I should see 12 volts on the up ""relay activation"" input AND I should see 12 volts on up ""motor control wire""... Then I should test the down tilt input and down power wire... When pressing the tilt down switch, if I see 12 volts on the down input and zero (or very low) voltage on the down power wire (I assume that is the green wire you mention to test) I can assume I have a bad relay box. Does this sound correct? + +I did find the Yamaha part number 68V-8195B-01 on ebay for $189... The seller on ebay says it is brand new in the box.... If I need one I think I will try ebay… + +Thanks for the help.. will let you know what I find..","Not sure what you mean ""Try swapping the 2 you have""... I only have one engine with one relay box... (maybe you mean swap the up and down power wires going to the tilt motor?)... Today I will be opening the engine up and will check the voltages... I assume I have two ""relay activation"" inputs (one for tilt up and one for tilt down coming from the up/down switch on the side of the outboard motor itself), a common ground wire and TWO ""motor power wires"" going to the tilt motor. I should start by checking the working tilt up control wires/inputs first. For up tilt, when I press the tilt up button I should see 12 volts on the up ""relay activation"" input AND I should see 12 volts on up ""motor control wire""... Then I should test the down tilt input and down power wire... When pressing the tilt down switch, if I see 12 volts on the down input and zero (or very low) voltage on the down power wire (I assume that is the green wire you mention to test) I can assume I have a bad relay box. Does this sound correct? + +I did find the Yamaha part number 68V-8195B-01 on ebay for $189... The seller on ebay says it is brand new in the box.... If I need one I think I will try ebay… + +Thanks for the help.. will let you know what I find..",We have the same motor (55hp Nissan) and can't find an impeller anywhere. Did you say you make them Scott? +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","hmmmm… yesterday I must have pressed the tilt down button 40 or 50 times throughout the day with absolutely no downward movement and only a click sound for each button press... this morning before starting my more detailed investigation, I pressed the down tilt button 4-5 times and nothing again. pressed up tilt button and engine raised as usual... then pressed down tilt button again and down movement started (with accompanied motor sound)… let go of down tilt button and then pressed it again to continue downward movement of the engine and got nothing but a click and no engine movement... pressed it 5 more times and still only click sound.... so I have an intermittent problem.... + +I think I will just order the new relay and replace the old one.... I can only image my problem is the relay itself...","hmmmm… yesterday I must have pressed the tilt down button 40 or 50 times throughout the day with absolutely no downward movement and only a click sound for each button press... this morning before starting my more detailed investigation, I pressed the down tilt button 4-5 times and nothing again. pressed up tilt button and engine raised as usual... then pressed down tilt button again and down movement started (with accompanied motor sound)… let go of down tilt button and then pressed it again to continue downward movement of the engine and got nothing but a click and no engine movement... pressed it 5 more times and still only click sound.... so I have an intermittent problem.... + +I think I will just order the new relay and replace the old one.... I can only image my problem is the relay itself...",Absolutely not. It looks like you might be missing the race either in the hub or on the spindle. Did you change those when you changed the bearings? +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","probably final update..... I opened up the cowling and located the relay.... The engine only has about 250 hours on it even though it was purchased in 2011 (I have a trawler I use more often)… The engine is clean and free of corrosion... but I loosened and tightened the green and blue wires on the relay...they appeared perfectly clean and free of corrosion/oxidation... now it is working both tilt up and down every press of the up down switch... shows 11.75 volts green wire when the up down switch is held depressed.. shows same voltage on blue wire when switch held depressed in the opposite tilt direction... + +I still suspect it will go out again …. I will let it sit for a week and try it again.... but I do not trust it.... So will order the relay","probably final update..... I opened up the cowling and located the relay.... The engine only has about 250 hours on it even though it was purchased in 2011 (I have a trawler I use more often)… The engine is clean and free of corrosion... but I loosened and tightened the green and blue wires on the relay...they appeared perfectly clean and free of corrosion/oxidation... now it is working both tilt up and down every press of the up down switch... shows 11.75 volts green wire when the up down switch is held depressed.. shows same voltage on blue wire when switch held depressed in the opposite tilt direction... + +I still suspect it will go out again …. I will let it sit for a week and try it again.... but I do not trust it.... So will order the relay","Try pumping the fuel bulb until you feel pressure. Remove the fuel line to the fuel rail and have someone stand back there holding the fuel line over a mason jar or something. Then key the ignition only to the run position (not the start position) - when the HP fuel pump kicks on for those three seconds you should get a 3 second squirt out of that fuel line. That will tell you if you're getting fuel to the rail. If you're getting fuel to the rail, try putting the fuel line back on the rail again, re-pump the fuel bulb to resistance and then key the the ignition to the run position (not start) again to get that 3-second pressure build. Key it several times while someone holds a small screwdriver down in the schrader valve on the top of the fuel rail to open it (looks just like the air fill valve on a tire) and see if with a few keyings of the ignition and squeezes of the fuel bulb you get fuel to come out of that schrader valve under pressure when someone is holding it open. That will tell you if your getting fuel up through the rail to the top and will also purge all air/bubbles that may be in their." +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","Do you experience same issue when using PTT switch located on engine? If so I'd say it's an voltz/ground issue. If the engine side PTT switch works without fail, but the remote control PTT switch has issues, then I'd say the contact points of the control switch needs to be removed and cleaned.","Do you experience same issue when using PTT switch located on engine? If so I'd say it's an voltz/ground issue. If the engine side PTT switch works without fail, but the remote control PTT switch has issues, then I'd say the contact points of the control switch needs to be removed and cleaned.","Talked to a guy at the shop. He said simplest test is A) With ignition off, put positive lead to alternator output and negative to ground. Meter should read battery voltage, which was 12.66V on meter. B) Start engine and run @ 2k rpm. Voltage should jump 2 volts. My test read 15V. Is my alternator OK? Tks." +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?",The problem occurred with both engine side switch and throttle switch... and as I mentioned it completely stopped working... 10s to 20s of depresses of the engine side switch where I heard a distinct click of the relay but no down tilt... but up tilt work all the time.. I removed the engine cowling and unscrewed the relay connections and then put them back together and now it has worked daily (both up and down tilt) for 5 days… I do not know why it did not work... then worked.. then stopped working.. and now working again... I have the ebay replacement replay ($200) and will replace the old relay if it stops again..,The problem occurred with both engine side switch and throttle switch... and as I mentioned it completely stopped working... 10s to 20s of depresses of the engine side switch where I heard a distinct click of the relay but no down tilt... but up tilt work all the time.. I removed the engine cowling and unscrewed the relay connections and then put them back together and now it has worked daily (both up and down tilt) for 5 days… I do not know why it did not work... then worked.. then stopped working.. and now working again... I have the ebay replacement replay ($200) and will replace the old relay if it stops again..,"Sorry about multiple posts, but I am researching this on the fly. I see that there are many threads over a lot of years on this topic and the bottom line is that certain of the yamaha models( I am new to the brand) have rectifiers only and no regulator. Is there typically a plug in yamaha rectifier/regulator that can solve this problem or do we need to go aftermarket? I am also getting the impression that for most of the time we just get away with it. Shame to find out that we cannot always get away with it when some electronics is fried." +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","Gotcha...in the future, if you experience intermittent operation of ptt switch I'd first check the contact points. Zero cost, probable cause.","Gotcha...in the future, if you experience intermittent operation of ptt switch I'd first check the contact points. Zero cost, probable cause.","Ayuh,..... If it's a 24v charger, that's correct,....." +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","Do you mean the place on the relay assembly where the ptt button wires attach? I may have wiggled them... but more importantly, I wiggled a lot of wires trying to get to look at the plastic connector coming out of the relay.... But that does not explain something to me.... Prior to touching any of the wires, The relay actually clicked when I depressed the ptt button but the motor would not move... I assumed the click noise was the actual contacts of the relay coming together... can it click without the relay contacts coming together?","Do you mean the place on the relay assembly where the ptt button wires attach? I may have wiggled them... but more importantly, I wiggled a lot of wires trying to get to look at the plastic connector coming out of the relay.... But that does not explain something to me.... Prior to touching any of the wires, The relay actually clicked when I depressed the ptt button but the motor would not move... I assumed the click noise was the actual contacts of the relay coming together... can it click without the relay contacts coming together?","Try a manual impact screw driver on release screw. If that don't work remove bottom mounting pin, then you can raise engine with the trim hanging from the engine by the top pin. Then you can remove top pin to remove the trim assembly completely from boat and work on it on a bench with a impact etc. Or at least once you remove it you can send it off for repair if need be. Don't forget the wires running from the trim motor" +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","Jim, I recently had the similar issue with my 2011 Yamaha 115HP lift/tilt motor. I was wondering what you ended up doing with your issue?","Jim, I recently had the similar issue with my 2011 Yamaha 115HP lift/tilt motor. I was wondering what you ended up doing with your issue?",There's a product called a Stern Saver that does what you're talking about. I'm not really sure how it's different than epoxying a piece of Starboard to your transom. +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","So your engine would tilt up all the time but not tilt down? I ended up buying a new trim tilt relay on ebay for $200 (local dealer wanted $317 plus tax).... I have not installed it because the original relay seems to have started working again. For 6-8 days in a row, I tilted the engine up and then down; tilt up and down work first time on each press of the engine side tilt button. Prior to, and after, I bought the new relay I opened the engine cowling to look at the relay to determine how it was installed and how the wiring looked.... The relay itself (as purchased) has only two wires that come out to a snap on connector; it also has a couple of screw holes to attach the wires that go to the tilt motor. To make sure the new relay would fit/install correctly, I dug down under other wires to find the connector on the original relay. It matched and appeared to be connected ok but I had jiggled the connector to make sure it was secure. I loosed and then retightened the screw on connections as well. Maybe I had a loose/corroded connection but they all look pristine with no sign of corrosion and here tight. The thing I still do not understand is... apparently the wiring from the tilt switch to the relay (through the snap on connector) must have always worked as I always heard a click of the relay on each depress of the switch when the down tilt did NOT work... I assume it was the primary contacts coming together... maybe the down wire going to the tilt motor had a bad connection at the relay and loosening and retightening them fixed the problem... Let me know what you find on yours...","So your engine would tilt up all the time but not tilt down? I ended up buying a new trim tilt relay on ebay for $200 (local dealer wanted $317 plus tax).... I have not installed it because the original relay seems to have started working again. For 6-8 days in a row, I tilted the engine up and then down; tilt up and down work first time on each press of the engine side tilt button. Prior to, and after, I bought the new relay I opened the engine cowling to look at the relay to determine how it was installed and how the wiring looked.... The relay itself (as purchased) has only two wires that come out to a snap on connector; it also has a couple of screw holes to attach the wires that go to the tilt motor. To make sure the new relay would fit/install correctly, I dug down under other wires to find the connector on the original relay. It matched and appeared to be connected ok but I had jiggled the connector to make sure it was secure. I loosed and then retightened the screw on connections as well. Maybe I had a loose/corroded connection but they all look pristine with no sign of corrosion and here tight. The thing I still do not understand is... apparently the wiring from the tilt switch to the relay (through the snap on connector) must have always worked as I always heard a click of the relay on each depress of the switch when the down tilt did NOT work... I assume it was the primary contacts coming together... maybe the down wire going to the tilt motor had a bad connection at the relay and loosening and retightening them fixed the problem... Let me know what you find on yours...",Would you still have a copy of this bulletin you could send me at [email protected]???? Thank you. +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","My motor will not tilt up. We're about to check the connections to see if we have a corroded connection. I have found new motors and relays if we need to order them, I'm going to try the simplest and cheapest solution first.","My motor will not tilt up. We're about to check the connections to see if we have a corroded connection. I have found new motors and relays if we need to order them, I'm going to try the simplest and cheapest solution first.","cb8296 said: + + + +VX225TLRY - If I jumper the fuse and even touch the positive lead to the battery terminal it wants to weld and sparks go everywhere and blows apart my test lead. Any ideas? + +Click to expand... + + +Blown fuses usually indicate a bad ground. Your attempt at jumping the fuse with subsequent arc tells me you definitely have no ground. You need to determine if indeed your ground lead from the cranking battery to starter is compromised. First check the connections at both ends, make sure they are free from corrosion. If good, meter test the ground lead for resistance/continuity. I'm guessing your problem is here. If not, it's possible the ground terminal on starter is bad. + +All in all, I believe this is a ground issue from what you've described. You'll have to trace the ground from its source forward, find the resistance." +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","As I mentioned in past posts... my engine ALWAY tilted up (with each and every depression of the engine side tilt switch) but in the past I had intermittent problems with it tilting down. In the past to solve it, I REPEATEDLY (like 10-30 times) hit the down tilt switch and eventually it would work and then work fine for the day. During that problem period, I could depress the up tilt switch and each and every time the motor tilted up.. Then down tilt stopped completely... for days (like daily for a week) I would try it with 10-30 depressions of the down tilt switch and it NEVER worked... Now it magically works after I ""touched connections"". + +Amorris10, when your engine fails to tilt down, do you hear a click sound coming from the relay assembly when you depress the down tilt switch?","As I mentioned in past posts... my engine ALWAY tilted up (with each and every depression of the engine side tilt switch) but in the past I had intermittent problems with it tilting down. In the past to solve it, I REPEATEDLY (like 10-30 times) hit the down tilt switch and eventually it would work and then work fine for the day. During that problem period, I could depress the up tilt switch and each and every time the motor tilted up.. Then down tilt stopped completely... for days (like daily for a week) I would try it with 10-30 depressions of the down tilt switch and it NEVER worked... Now it magically works after I ""touched connections"". + +Amorris10, when your engine fails to tilt down, do you hear a click sound coming from the relay assembly when you depress the down tilt switch?","You're in luck...link to your engines manual below. Btw, the last model letter of C indicates a model year of 2004, not 2003. To my knowledge and experience, Yam's have one alarm sound, whether it's the oil alarm, high temp alarm, or turning key when lanyard is removed from kill switch. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...hop-manuals/372-2004-yamaha-f115c-lf115c/file" +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","If you were to open up the remote control's throttle arm, under the toggle switch is the rocker contact. This contact should be clean. If when you open and expose contact it has black burn marks....need to clean that off. That minute layer of soot is preventing the toggle switch from conducting through the rocker contact. Had intermittent t/t issues as you've described...then intermittent became permanent. Opened the throttle arm as described above...cleaned contacts, reassembled. Worked like new and has done so since cleaning, over a year ago. Same contact points are under the cowling switch.","If you were to open up the remote control's throttle arm, under the toggle switch is the rocker contact. This contact should be clean. If when you open and expose contact it has black burn marks....need to clean that off. That minute layer of soot is preventing the toggle switch from conducting through the rocker contact. Had intermittent t/t issues as you've described...then intermittent became permanent. Opened the throttle arm as described above...cleaned contacts, reassembled. Worked like new and has done so since cleaning, over a year ago. Same contact points are under the cowling switch.",Is there a fuse at the battery for accy circuit? Sounds to me like you need to get to know the wiring and go through every wire in it. Add a good fuse block if one is not present. The wiring is 35 years old and you likely have switches getting old as well as breakers if installed in the original dash. Find a diagram for you motor and controls the guages should work with the ignition switch but the lights and accessories should be independent of the ignition. Go thorugh it now so you dont have issues out there and once you know how it all goes you can troubleshoot out there alot easier. Fuse everything! +"The power lift/tilt on my engine is having problems. When I press the button to lift the engine , it works fine. When I press the button to lower the engine, I hear the relay click but I hear no sound (like I do when I tilt up) and the engine does not move. I have had this problem for a while and it would come and go... I could press the tilt down MANY times and it would work... Had the boat out last week and initially it would not tilt down but once I got it going, it worked fine (tilted up and down and 15 times during the ride with out a problem). Now the down tilt will not work at all... yesterday pressed it 20 times or so and today the same... Up works but not down... + +I am assuming I need a new relay.... they are NOT CHEAP... $250plus.... where is the best/cheapest place to buy an OEM relay?","but if the tilt relay is clicking when the tilt switch (on throttle or on the side of the motor) is depressed, what does that mean? I assume clicking is the actual contacts inside the relay from the battery to the tilt motor is moving and making contact. and the actual contacts are ""dirty"" and not passing current to the tilt motor..","but if the tilt relay is clicking when the tilt switch (on throttle or on the side of the motor) is depressed, what does that mean? I assume clicking is the actual contacts inside the relay from the battery to the tilt motor is moving and making contact. and the actual contacts are ""dirty"" and not passing current to the tilt motor..","Hello Steve. + +If you have tried to start the heater more than 4 or five times, I would recommend that you get an Espar tech to look at it, as too much fuel in the heater and exhaust can make starting it a hazardous exercise( exhaust fire) If you don't know where one is then contact Espar Canada at 1-800-387-4800 and they can give you a dealer list. + +How many times have you tried to start it?" +Can this motor be hooked to YDS or do you have to use the winky blinky to check for codes. It will not go over 8mph but runs great at idle and up to that point. I think it is going in to some sort of limp/protection mode. Thanks,YDIS does not interface with the OX66 models.,YDIS does not interface with the OX66 models.,Is the fuel tank breather clear and open? +Planning on changing the oil on Yamaha 2017 FL200 using Evindure/Johnson 25-40 FWC oil and Fram ultra 3614 filter anyone see any problem??,Under warranty? Use genuine,Under warranty? Use genuine,"The only way to do this is to start at the battery and work out. With a volt meter check that you actually have 12.6 volts or more, second put the negative lead of the tester on the positive post of the battery (the post not the cable clamp) and the positive lead to the hot post of the starter and see if there is any voltage showing when the starter is activated, there should be less than 1/2 volt. Next put the positive lead on the negative post of the battery and the negative lead on the starter ground point and again turn the starter over, since there is no relay on this side the voltage reading should be no more than 1/10 volt. Doing this will test for a poor connection in either of the wires or the relay. If everything checks out there then you need to get the starter tested or replaced." +Planning on changing the oil on Yamaha 2017 FL200 using Evindure/Johnson 25-40 FWC oil and Fram ultra 3614 filter anyone see any problem??,"Why use non-specified oil? It does not have to be Yamalube. Just get the correct grade. + +I have no knowledge of the filter you mention. If it is form, fit and function the equivalent of the Yamaha branded (made by Denso) filter then I would have no problem using it. + +In the future it will help if you post the full model of your motor. Yamaha makes several I4 and V6 four stroke 200 HP motors. An LF200 model is not offered here in the USA. You must not be in the US.","Why use non-specified oil? It does not have to be Yamalube. Just get the correct grade. + +I have no knowledge of the filter you mention. If it is form, fit and function the equivalent of the Yamaha branded (made by Denso) filter then I would have no problem using it. + +In the future it will help if you post the full model of your motor. Yamaha makes several I4 and V6 four stroke 200 HP motors. An LF200 model is not offered here in the USA. You must not be in the US.","High press. pump in vst chamber wasn't coming on when ing. switch was turned on. +If it's not a cps , what's sensor on port side that has 2 wires and magnet that magnets on out side of flywheel pass? How do injectors know when to fire off ?" +"Hi, want to regrease these fittings on my 150, using the standard nozzle on the grease gun doesn't give access. Haven't found another adaptor or is there one available. Thanks in advance.",Right angle adapter for the grease gun. Any auto parts store or major hardware store will have one.,Right angle adapter for the grease gun. Any auto parts store or major hardware store will have one.,"I've never heard of a faulty oil level sensor causeing a no spark situation. Does the starter engage when you key to ""start"" position? Have you checked all fuses including the fuses in the engine?" +"Hi, want to regrease these fittings on my 150, using the standard nozzle on the grease gun doesn't give access. Haven't found another adaptor or is there one available. Thanks in advance.",You could replace them with right angle fittings.,You could replace them with right angle fittings.,Put it in a barrel of water and add a gallon of saltaway and let it run until the water in the barrel gets hot. +"very low hour motor. +I've been searching the threads +have carb cleaned the carb several times. + +with the carb apart and I blow carb cleaner or air in the gas intake i'm not getting any cleaner or air into the float bowl. (bowls off but float is on) +I've opened one then both carb butterflys. played with the float while blowing air. +carbs clean . + +yes we are getting gas +yes we have venting +yes the filter is clean. +the float moves up and down freely + +One thing we tried and are not getting is removing the small needle type valve + +does anyone have a carb parts list? +any ideas?","update +the needle values were in tight, once out and carb cleaner cleaned we're good to go. +thanks","update +the needle values were in tight, once out and carb cleaner cleaned we're good to go. +thanks","The jumper plug is there for a reason. It came from the factory with a nylon lanyard to prevent it from being lost. Many forget to reattach the jumper cap. The motor may run just fine without be installed. But it is supposed to be installed. + +Attach it or not. Your call." +"Hey guys. Been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have a 2003 Yamaha vmax 150 that has a stalling problem. We took it out last weekend and ran about 10 gallons through it and it runs WOT great, but when I idle for a bit or putt through the no wake to the ramp, it will stall. It typically starts right back up no problem, but this time it stalled and I had a lot of trouble getting it started. I pumped the primer bulb and it was hard, but gave it another pump anyway. After about 10 tries, it gave it a long starter pull and it finally started. Gunned it and then put it on the trailer. Not sure where to start. Is there a list of things to check or maybe a sticky that addresses these issues? Drained the fuel, added fresh 100% gas. New fuel filter and plugs. No changes. Thinking maybe I have some old fuel line letting air in somewhere? Any ideas?","seems like the fuel/air mix might be wrong. If it has them, try cleaning the carbs through and make sure that they are all in working order. + +does it smell strongly of fuel when it stalls?","seems like the fuel/air mix might be wrong. If it has them, try cleaning the carbs through and make sure that they are all in working order. + +does it smell strongly of fuel when it stalls?",The 2 lower units have nearly the same part #.----The price is exactly the same.----Consult your friendly Yamaha dealer.----They will know for sure.---Could be bigger diameter on the bolts / bolt holes that gives it a different part #. +"Hey guys. Been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have a 2003 Yamaha vmax 150 that has a stalling problem. We took it out last weekend and ran about 10 gallons through it and it runs WOT great, but when I idle for a bit or putt through the no wake to the ramp, it will stall. It typically starts right back up no problem, but this time it stalled and I had a lot of trouble getting it started. I pumped the primer bulb and it was hard, but gave it another pump anyway. After about 10 tries, it gave it a long starter pull and it finally started. Gunned it and then put it on the trailer. Not sure where to start. Is there a list of things to check or maybe a sticky that addresses these issues? Drained the fuel, added fresh 100% gas. New fuel filter and plugs. No changes. Thinking maybe I have some old fuel line letting air in somewhere? Any ideas?","Not that the have noticed, but it the sound definitely changes leading up to the stall. Not sure if it is a lean or rich condition, but it sounds like my nitro rc cars when they load up on fuel when idling for too long. Do gasoline carbs act the same way? I would think you could idle “forever”","Not that the have noticed, but it the sound definitely changes leading up to the stall. Not sure if it is a lean or rich condition, but it sounds like my nitro rc cars when they load up on fuel when idling for too long. Do gasoline carbs act the same way? I would think you could idle “forever”","Thanks Gary. I went ahead and bought a Costco group 24 marine deep cycle. $68 out the door. I know Costco generally sells quality stuff and they back their products well so all in all, it was hopefully a wise purchase." +"Hey guys. Been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have a 2003 Yamaha vmax 150 that has a stalling problem. We took it out last weekend and ran about 10 gallons through it and it runs WOT great, but when I idle for a bit or putt through the no wake to the ramp, it will stall. It typically starts right back up no problem, but this time it stalled and I had a lot of trouble getting it started. I pumped the primer bulb and it was hard, but gave it another pump anyway. After about 10 tries, it gave it a long starter pull and it finally started. Gunned it and then put it on the trailer. Not sure where to start. Is there a list of things to check or maybe a sticky that addresses these issues? Drained the fuel, added fresh 100% gas. New fuel filter and plugs. No changes. Thinking maybe I have some old fuel line letting air in somewhere? Any ideas?","It has carbs, 3 of them. By cleaning, do you mean a seafoam or carb cleaner or actually take them apart and clean them?","It has carbs, 3 of them. By cleaning, do you mean a seafoam or carb cleaner or actually take them apart and clean them?","johnnygjr said: + + + + Glad to help,Bullie. + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah. Thanks for all you did." +"Hey guys. Been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have a 2003 Yamaha vmax 150 that has a stalling problem. We took it out last weekend and ran about 10 gallons through it and it runs WOT great, but when I idle for a bit or putt through the no wake to the ramp, it will stall. It typically starts right back up no problem, but this time it stalled and I had a lot of trouble getting it started. I pumped the primer bulb and it was hard, but gave it another pump anyway. After about 10 tries, it gave it a long starter pull and it finally started. Gunned it and then put it on the trailer. Not sure where to start. Is there a list of things to check or maybe a sticky that addresses these issues? Drained the fuel, added fresh 100% gas. New fuel filter and plugs. No changes. Thinking maybe I have some old fuel line letting air in somewhere? Any ideas?",Here is a video of the cold start and stall. Does it sound odd to anyone?,Here is a video of the cold start and stall. Does it sound odd to anyone?,"Took it apart and checked on the impeller and its in good shape, was out for 45 mins the other day and it was still nice and cool. + +The outboard it at the cottage, Il take a look to see if I have any pictures and I'll let you know." +"Hey guys. Been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have a 2003 Yamaha vmax 150 that has a stalling problem. We took it out last weekend and ran about 10 gallons through it and it runs WOT great, but when I idle for a bit or putt through the no wake to the ramp, it will stall. It typically starts right back up no problem, but this time it stalled and I had a lot of trouble getting it started. I pumped the primer bulb and it was hard, but gave it another pump anyway. After about 10 tries, it gave it a long starter pull and it finally started. Gunned it and then put it on the trailer. Not sure where to start. Is there a list of things to check or maybe a sticky that addresses these issues? Drained the fuel, added fresh 100% gas. New fuel filter and plugs. No changes. Thinking maybe I have some old fuel line letting air in somewhere? Any ideas?","Drained the fuel and put in fresh fuel and it ran for an hour in the yard on earmuffs. Took it out on the lake and it stalled on the dock. Ran it for about 30 minutes and it started stallin, but would fire back up. Then, after a full throttle run, when I came down to idle it stalled and wouldnt start back up. We had to be towed back to the dock. Any ideas?","Drained the fuel and put in fresh fuel and it ran for an hour in the yard on earmuffs. Took it out on the lake and it stalled on the dock. Ran it for about 30 minutes and it started stallin, but would fire back up. Then, after a full throttle run, when I came down to idle it stalled and wouldnt start back up. We had to be towed back to the dock. Any ideas?",Did you forget to mention what motor this is ???----Is there a spring loaded pin on the end of the driveshaft? +"Hey guys. Been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have a 2003 Yamaha vmax 150 that has a stalling problem. We took it out last weekend and ran about 10 gallons through it and it runs WOT great, but when I idle for a bit or putt through the no wake to the ramp, it will stall. It typically starts right back up no problem, but this time it stalled and I had a lot of trouble getting it started. I pumped the primer bulb and it was hard, but gave it another pump anyway. After about 10 tries, it gave it a long starter pull and it finally started. Gunned it and then put it on the trailer. Not sure where to start. Is there a list of things to check or maybe a sticky that addresses these issues? Drained the fuel, added fresh 100% gas. New fuel filter and plugs. No changes. Thinking maybe I have some old fuel line letting air in somewhere? Any ideas?","It is in the shop and so far I am on the hook for 8hours labor and they can’t figure it out. They found about an ounce of metal shavings in the fuel tank which they can’t explain. More new plugs, filter, and lines. Cleaned tank. Then 3 rebuilt carbs. Still stalls. It will run for 20 min or so in the water but when you come from full throttle to idle, it stalls.","It is in the shop and so far I am on the hook for 8hours labor and they can’t figure it out. They found about an ounce of metal shavings in the fuel tank which they can’t explain. More new plugs, filter, and lines. Cleaned tank. Then 3 rebuilt carbs. Still stalls. It will run for 20 min or so in the water but when you come from full throttle to idle, it stalls.",agree....keep it simple...on a boat that size 12v trolling motor will do the job....one 12 volt for ignition and one for trolling motor....go with 24volt motor now with the batteries and you are locked in...sooner or later batteries need replacing... +"Hey guys. Been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have a 2003 Yamaha vmax 150 that has a stalling problem. We took it out last weekend and ran about 10 gallons through it and it runs WOT great, but when I idle for a bit or putt through the no wake to the ramp, it will stall. It typically starts right back up no problem, but this time it stalled and I had a lot of trouble getting it started. I pumped the primer bulb and it was hard, but gave it another pump anyway. After about 10 tries, it gave it a long starter pull and it finally started. Gunned it and then put it on the trailer. Not sure where to start. Is there a list of things to check or maybe a sticky that addresses these issues? Drained the fuel, added fresh 100% gas. New fuel filter and plugs. No changes. Thinking maybe I have some old fuel line letting air in somewhere? Any ideas?","Lost faith in my mechanics, so I picked up the boat. Still not fixed, so decided to throw parts at it. Replaced both fuel pumps and installed a new fuel lin/primer bulb. Also installed a fuel water separator. Ran it on the lake for 2 hours last night. Stalled 8 times, but started back up every time. Ran for 1 hour at 1200 rpm with no stalles. Seem like if I try to cruise at 2500 rpm it will lose rpm and then stall. Not sure if it is loading up on fuel or running lean, but once I see the rpm start to drop, I can give it a bump on the throttle to keep from stalling, sometimes. I can also cruise above 3200 rpm for an extended period, but going back to idle causes a stall. Any other ideas? Have 3 carbs. Does this sound like a carb issue?","Lost faith in my mechanics, so I picked up the boat. Still not fixed, so decided to throw parts at it. Replaced both fuel pumps and installed a new fuel lin/primer bulb. Also installed a fuel water separator. Ran it on the lake for 2 hours last night. Stalled 8 times, but started back up every time. Ran for 1 hour at 1200 rpm with no stalles. Seem like if I try to cruise at 2500 rpm it will lose rpm and then stall. Not sure if it is loading up on fuel or running lean, but once I see the rpm start to drop, I can give it a bump on the throttle to keep from stalling, sometimes. I can also cruise above 3200 rpm for an extended period, but going back to idle causes a stall. Any other ideas? Have 3 carbs. Does this sound like a carb issue?","Managed to upload some photos... + +As you can see the water is sitting pretty high up towards the engine well. Boat performed well just hoping that its all good and just the way the hull sits. + +Thanks all." +"Hey guys. Been lurking for a while but this is my first post. I have a 2003 Yamaha vmax 150 that has a stalling problem. We took it out last weekend and ran about 10 gallons through it and it runs WOT great, but when I idle for a bit or putt through the no wake to the ramp, it will stall. It typically starts right back up no problem, but this time it stalled and I had a lot of trouble getting it started. I pumped the primer bulb and it was hard, but gave it another pump anyway. After about 10 tries, it gave it a long starter pull and it finally started. Gunned it and then put it on the trailer. Not sure where to start. Is there a list of things to check or maybe a sticky that addresses these issues? Drained the fuel, added fresh 100% gas. New fuel filter and plugs. No changes. Thinking maybe I have some old fuel line letting air in somewhere? Any ideas?",I rebuilt all three carbs with new floats. It is running perfect. Looks like someone previously rebuilt the carbs and did t adjust the floats to factory spec. Problem solved.,I rebuilt all three carbs with new floats. It is running perfect. Looks like someone previously rebuilt the carbs and did t adjust the floats to factory spec. Problem solved.,Just got a New Pretec rotary unit yesterday and installed the helm under the center console. It actual took up quite a bit less space than the rotary unit I took out so I'm pretty happy about that so far. +"I have a 2o hp 4stroke I am working on and acceleration is bad. It bogs down each time I try WOT. IF I go slowly it will get there but not quickly. +Idles fine but is hard to cold start motor. Usually 7 to 10 pulls to start then pops sputters a few moments then when warm it is ok but no quick throttle ever. +I have checked compression and can only get 95 each. still, no smoke and runs fine (when warm). Removed carburetor and cleaned out, then changed plugs. +There is a bit of improvement but still not where i think it should be. I have read on the web these motors were undersized on jets from the factory. Dont know if that is true or not but cant guess what to put in it to try. I have a fair amount of tools but cannot do much with the electronic side as far as testing but am not opposed to buying anything as I work on other outboards. any help would be appreciated.;;;how do I get better response on throttle??",Try pumping primer bulb while she's running,Try pumping primer bulb while she's running,"Thanks Chris +Yes the engine is reaching N.O.T. I didn't do a leak down because the compression was 128 PSI which was +/- 3 PSI of all other cyls. I did inspect the head visually for cracks or holes and requested the machine shop check it for the same they said it was good. I pulled the exhaust cover and inspected the water passage and exhaust for indications of a crack or pin hole, nothing out of the ordinary found with one exception. There are 6 round mounds with flat tops and they are a little smaller dia. than a dime. They are molded into the casting and the only one that has a hole in it is the one on #6 cylinder. I don't know if that is by design and normal or if it is a result of corrosion. I have never noticed it before but I have not chased a problem like this before. I have attached picture to help identify what I am referring to." +"I have a 2o hp 4stroke I am working on and acceleration is bad. It bogs down each time I try WOT. IF I go slowly it will get there but not quickly. +Idles fine but is hard to cold start motor. Usually 7 to 10 pulls to start then pops sputters a few moments then when warm it is ok but no quick throttle ever. +I have checked compression and can only get 95 each. still, no smoke and runs fine (when warm). Removed carburetor and cleaned out, then changed plugs. +There is a bit of improvement but still not where i think it should be. I have read on the web these motors were undersized on jets from the factory. Dont know if that is true or not but cant guess what to put in it to try. I have a fair amount of tools but cannot do much with the electronic side as far as testing but am not opposed to buying anything as I work on other outboards. any help would be appreciated.;;;how do I get better response on throttle??","johnnygjr said: + + + + Try pumping primer bulb while she's running + +Click to expand... + +I did try squeezing bulb this morning but made no difference. 11 pulls to start. +It does run better since cleaning out carb and adjusting slop out of linkage but is still hard to start and coughs and wheezes. +Once it is up and warm it is not great but is acceptable. Starting should be better. any suggestions would be appreciated. +Is there a way to check timing or maybe a electronic cold start like bigger engines with pre-enrichment valves? +I cant seem to get there. thanks","johnnygjr said: + + + + Try pumping primer bulb while she's running + +Click to expand... + +I did try squeezing bulb this morning but made no difference. 11 pulls to start. +It does run better since cleaning out carb and adjusting slop out of linkage but is still hard to start and coughs and wheezes. +Once it is up and warm it is not great but is acceptable. Starting should be better. any suggestions would be appreciated. +Is there a way to check timing or maybe a electronic cold start like bigger engines with pre-enrichment valves? +I cant seem to get there. thanks","There are several valves.. the up-main valve, the down-main valve, the up-relief valve, the down-relief valve and a check valve in the cylinder. I don't know enough to know which one (if any) is the problem, but that's how it's generally set up on Yamahas." +"I have a 2o hp 4stroke I am working on and acceleration is bad. It bogs down each time I try WOT. IF I go slowly it will get there but not quickly. +Idles fine but is hard to cold start motor. Usually 7 to 10 pulls to start then pops sputters a few moments then when warm it is ok but no quick throttle ever. +I have checked compression and can only get 95 each. still, no smoke and runs fine (when warm). Removed carburetor and cleaned out, then changed plugs. +There is a bit of improvement but still not where i think it should be. I have read on the web these motors were undersized on jets from the factory. Dont know if that is true or not but cant guess what to put in it to try. I have a fair amount of tools but cannot do much with the electronic side as far as testing but am not opposed to buying anything as I work on other outboards. any help would be appreciated.;;;how do I get better response on throttle??","low compresion can be cused by carbon bilt on valves. +95 psi is low for 4stroke","low compresion can be cused by carbon bilt on valves. +95 psi is low for 4stroke","More than likely this is the plug you need. Can be confirmed once the engine serial is known. + +https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/6G8-13471-00-00" +"I have a 2o hp 4stroke I am working on and acceleration is bad. It bogs down each time I try WOT. IF I go slowly it will get there but not quickly. +Idles fine but is hard to cold start motor. Usually 7 to 10 pulls to start then pops sputters a few moments then when warm it is ok but no quick throttle ever. +I have checked compression and can only get 95 each. still, no smoke and runs fine (when warm). Removed carburetor and cleaned out, then changed plugs. +There is a bit of improvement but still not where i think it should be. I have read on the web these motors were undersized on jets from the factory. Dont know if that is true or not but cant guess what to put in it to try. I have a fair amount of tools but cannot do much with the electronic side as far as testing but am not opposed to buying anything as I work on other outboards. any help would be appreciated.;;;how do I get better response on throttle??","I pulled on rope several times. I'm not sure how many are required but couldn't get it past 95. I agree it is low so maybe I had a leak. I will do it over when I get back to engine."" IF"" it is fuel starved, and ""IF"" the jets are undersized is there any recommendations for upsizing? As I noted it does run better but I think it is still lacking. Too hard to start and and hard cranking throttle gets delayed acceleration. Slow gradual works fine but sometimes quick deceleration cause engine to die. All seemingly pointing to fuel. Is there a spark advance that should be happening? I'm just lost at this point but my right arm is going popeye.","I pulled on rope several times. I'm not sure how many are required but couldn't get it past 95. I agree it is low so maybe I had a leak. I will do it over when I get back to engine."" IF"" it is fuel starved, and ""IF"" the jets are undersized is there any recommendations for upsizing? As I noted it does run better but I think it is still lacking. Too hard to start and and hard cranking throttle gets delayed acceleration. Slow gradual works fine but sometimes quick deceleration cause engine to die. All seemingly pointing to fuel. Is there a spark advance that should be happening? I'm just lost at this point but my right arm is going popeye.","Hi Guys, I took your advice and went to the auto parts store and bought five foot cables. That is the longest ones they had. They come with a lug on each end and were 12.99 each. I do not have salt water. Any where around here. Just the good old Great Lakes. thanks for all your help." +"Off the trailer, my Yamaha F100 will crank perfect, run smooth at full throttle, and idle perfect through the ""no wake zone"", but when I get back on the throttle it will run smooth only to about 3000 rpm's. When I go to full throttle it objects and sputters and will not rev up. It then seems to rev up OK in neutral but will not under load. + Thanks in advance for suggestions.","Buddy Row said: + + + + Off the trailer, my Yamaha F100 will crank perfect, run smooth at full throttle, and idle perfect through the ""no wake zone"", but when I get back on the throttle it will run smooth only to about 3000 rpm's. When I go to full throttle it objects and sputters and will not rev up. It then seems to rev up OK in neutral but will not under load. + Thanks in advance for suggestions. + +Click to expand... + + +What year is the engine? 2-stroke or 4 stroke? Carbureted or Electronic Fuel Injected? Built-in or external fuel tank and gal size? Old stale gas? Ethanol blended gas? Have you been adding any fuel stabilizers and what kind? Have you checked all fuel filters, checked for water in filters, and tightened of all fuel connections? Pulled fuel line from under the cowling and confirmed pumping the squeeze ball delivers a strong, easy flow/squirt out of that line? Have you pulled the fuel pick-up line that runs to the bottom of the fuel tank and checked if there is a small filter on the end of it? If there is - pull it off or cut it off and DO NOT REPLACE IT OR TRY TO CLEAN IT. Sounds like a fuel issue to me - stale ethanol gas, water in gas, poor flow, gummed up filters or fuel jets due to ethanol, sucking air due to a lose fuel line connection/fitting somewhere, or a clogged fuel pick up line filter in the that cloggs after running for a while and then magically unclogs after a shut down with debris falling off and floating back into the tank before udner load again and it clogs again. + +High reving under no load requires minimal fuel - under load is when the engine is really trying to suck fuel from the tank and push it into the cylinders.","Buddy Row said: + + + + Off the trailer, my Yamaha F100 will crank perfect, run smooth at full throttle, and idle perfect through the ""no wake zone"", but when I get back on the throttle it will run smooth only to about 3000 rpm's. When I go to full throttle it objects and sputters and will not rev up. It then seems to rev up OK in neutral but will not under load. + Thanks in advance for suggestions. + +Click to expand... + + +What year is the engine? 2-stroke or 4 stroke? Carbureted or Electronic Fuel Injected? Built-in or external fuel tank and gal size? Old stale gas? Ethanol blended gas? Have you been adding any fuel stabilizers and what kind? Have you checked all fuel filters, checked for water in filters, and tightened of all fuel connections? Pulled fuel line from under the cowling and confirmed pumping the squeeze ball delivers a strong, easy flow/squirt out of that line? Have you pulled the fuel pick-up line that runs to the bottom of the fuel tank and checked if there is a small filter on the end of it? If there is - pull it off or cut it off and DO NOT REPLACE IT OR TRY TO CLEAN IT. Sounds like a fuel issue to me - stale ethanol gas, water in gas, poor flow, gummed up filters or fuel jets due to ethanol, sucking air due to a lose fuel line connection/fitting somewhere, or a clogged fuel pick up line filter in the that cloggs after running for a while and then magically unclogs after a shut down with debris falling off and floating back into the tank before udner load again and it clogs again. + +High reving under no load requires minimal fuel - under load is when the engine is really trying to suck fuel from the tank and push it into the cylinders.",Track down the click. It is probably the trim relays. It is likely that you have either lost the earth to the trim motor or lost the +ve feed to the relays. You can see where the wires come up through the lower engine casing and follow them to the relays. There may be a fuse between the relays and the main feed off the starter solenoid but I can't remember for sure how this is set up. If you have a voltmeter there area few quick tests to prove what is happening. +"Off the trailer, my Yamaha F100 will crank perfect, run smooth at full throttle, and idle perfect through the ""no wake zone"", but when I get back on the throttle it will run smooth only to about 3000 rpm's. When I go to full throttle it objects and sputters and will not rev up. It then seems to rev up OK in neutral but will not under load. + Thanks in advance for suggestions.","Unless I'm way off base, an F100 is a carbed 4 stroke model that went out of production a few years back","Unless I'm way off base, an F100 is a carbed 4 stroke model that went out of production a few years back","Hurry, hurry to a boat shop and listen to what they say.-------A V-6 will sound nice running on 5 of 6 cylinders !" +"Off the trailer, my Yamaha F100 will crank perfect, run smooth at full throttle, and idle perfect through the ""no wake zone"", but when I get back on the throttle it will run smooth only to about 3000 rpm's. When I go to full throttle it objects and sputters and will not rev up. It then seems to rev up OK in neutral but will not under load. + Thanks in advance for suggestions.","Try squeezing primer bulb while underway after 3000 rpms and see what happens,if all good fuel pump or fuel delivery problem is your possible issue. keep us posted.","Try squeezing primer bulb while underway after 3000 rpms and see what happens,if all good fuel pump or fuel delivery problem is your possible issue. keep us posted.","The connector is for the automatic oil transfer system. No transfer, the alarm will sound if and when the engine mounted main oil tank runs low. + +The four wires are for the sensor in the oil tank and for the oil pump itself. + +The connector is usually up front with two ivory coloured four pin connectors and one black round ten pin connector." +"Off the trailer, my Yamaha F100 will crank perfect, run smooth at full throttle, and idle perfect through the ""no wake zone"", but when I get back on the throttle it will run smooth only to about 3000 rpm's. When I go to full throttle it objects and sputters and will not rev up. It then seems to rev up OK in neutral but will not under load. + Thanks in advance for suggestions.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Try squeezing primer bulb while underway after 3000 rpms and see what happens,if all good fuel pump or fuel delivery problem is your possible issue. keep us posted. + +Click to expand... + + +As usual Johnny - Great suggestion!","johnnygjr said: + + + + Try squeezing primer bulb while underway after 3000 rpms and see what happens,if all good fuel pump or fuel delivery problem is your possible issue. keep us posted. + +Click to expand... + + +As usual Johnny - Great suggestion!",If 4300 is your maximum RPM there is something wrong.----Post compression test values.----Test for strong spark on each lead.----What boat and what pitch is the prop? +"Off the trailer, my Yamaha F100 will crank perfect, run smooth at full throttle, and idle perfect through the ""no wake zone"", but when I get back on the throttle it will run smooth only to about 3000 rpm's. When I go to full throttle it objects and sputters and will not rev up. It then seems to rev up OK in neutral but will not under load. + Thanks in advance for suggestions.","Buddy Row said: + + + + Off the trailer, my Yamaha F100 will crank perfect, run smooth at full throttle, and idle perfect through the ""no wake zone"", but when I get back on the throttle it will run smooth only to about 3000 rpm's. When I go to full throttle it objects and sputters and will not rev up. It then seems to rev up OK in neutral but will not under load. + Thanks in advance for suggestions. + +Click to expand... + + +Did you ever solve this issue? having the exact same problem in my carbed F100.","Buddy Row said: + + + + Off the trailer, my Yamaha F100 will crank perfect, run smooth at full throttle, and idle perfect through the ""no wake zone"", but when I get back on the throttle it will run smooth only to about 3000 rpm's. When I go to full throttle it objects and sputters and will not rev up. It then seems to rev up OK in neutral but will not under load. + Thanks in advance for suggestions. + +Click to expand... + + +Did you ever solve this issue? having the exact same problem in my carbed F100.","Your English is great. Better than my parlez vous francais. + +Regarding the shifting from neutral into forward and neutral into reverse I presume you are talking about when the motor is running. I would make sure that both the throttle and shift cables are securely attached in the motor. The clip that holds them in place has been known to come loose which can affect either the throttle cable or the shift cable. + +The motor should be in neutral when the lower unit is removed. When servicing the lower unit the shift control should not be moved. Having said that, it sounds like yours are out of phase. I have used a pair of channel lock type pliers with the jaws padded so as to not damage the shift rod splines. You can go in one direction to find reverse and then go in the other direction to find forward. Then split the difference which will be neutral. Once in neutral confirm it by making sure the propeller shaft turns freely in both directions. If it is difficult to shift the motor into a gear have someone turn the propeller shaft as it will help it to shift. + +Reinstall the lower unit making sure the shift rod and shift shaft splines line up. Secure the lower unit in place with just one bolt. Running the motor on flush muffs start and let it idle. Make sure that it shifts freely from neutral to forward, to neutral to reverse, then back to neutral. If it does, install and tighten the rest of the bolts." +"I have a 2006 Yamaha 200 V-Max I have weak compression on 2 cyclinders. 70-125-130-90-125-130. +Still runs ok- will not idle or accelerate or top out like it used to. What is going on? Please help!",Sounds like it has a blown head gasket or worse it needs rebuilding.,Sounds like it has a blown head gasket or worse it needs rebuilding.,Pull up the lever half way and see what happens. +"I have a 2006 Yamaha 200 V-Max I have weak compression on 2 cyclinders. 70-125-130-90-125-130. +Still runs ok- will not idle or accelerate or top out like it used to. What is going on? Please help!",Take a look inside of the bad cylinders with a borescope.,Take a look inside of the bad cylinders with a borescope.,"Vampire69 said: + + + + When I read the voltage to the wire for the alarm, I am getting 8.7 volts. Ground problem possibly? + +Click to expand... + +Where is you ground test lead being applied? + +If the test lead is to a good ground and you are only seeing 8.7 volts on your meter then that is voltage drop. Excessive voltage drop. Find out why. + +If you have low voltage to the warning horn, what about the voltage to the ECU? Low voltage can cause the warning horn to sound in some models. See post #2." +"I have a 2006 Yamaha 200 V-Max I have weak compression on 2 cyclinders. 70-125-130-90-125-130. +Still runs ok- will not idle or accelerate or top out like it used to. What is going on? Please help!",What would I be looking for?,What would I be looking for?,"tmetz said: + + + + Thank you guys for the quick response!! I do have the lower unit removed and found that I had a broken control bracket. I ordered a new one $44... That may have been some of the noise I had thought was the lower crank vibrating around in there. But after letting it run for 10-15 seconds the flywheel does have a rough motion to it I wondered if one of my magnets came off the inside of the flywheel or maybe I'm just over thinking this whole thing and it's just simply a new control arm that I needed. I took off the pull start cover and tried to get down into the flywheel to check it out but I do not have a fly wheel puller so I was a stand still. Motor runs great with lower unit not on, but still some off noise coming from the flywheel. I'm going to get a puller this week and try to get in there just for peace of mind I know everything is good to go for this motor. Is it possible I'm missing a couple magnets and my timing / spark is being thrown off? + +I did not try the wood dowel trick yet, but I really do appreciate the input. As for now waiting on a couple parts for the motor and we'll see what happens! + +Click to expand... + + +I took the boat out for its first trip since putting in the new water pump and all and the noise is still there at a low idle rpm.? R + +I I attached a video of the motor running +http://youtu.be/nVmtBPcKteYv" +"I have a 2006 Yamaha 200 V-Max I have weak compression on 2 cyclinders. 70-125-130-90-125-130. +Still runs ok- will not idle or accelerate or top out like it used to. What is going on? Please help!",Damaged cylinder walls / pistons.--------Might as well remove the cylinder heads.-----Your motor needs work !!,Damaged cylinder walls / pistons.--------Might as well remove the cylinder heads.-----Your motor needs work !!,"Had a look at Boatinfo, no good. Need diagram how to conect to gauges and key. there are 9 wires from engine and 5 fron key." +"I have a 2006 Yamaha 200 V-Max I have weak compression on 2 cyclinders. 70-125-130-90-125-130. +Still runs ok- will not idle or accelerate or top out like it used to. What is going on? Please help!",That is hard to swallow.,That is hard to swallow.,Sure the can be rebuilt !!-Find the parts right here on this site too. +"I have a 2006 Yamaha 200 V-Max I have weak compression on 2 cyclinders. 70-125-130-90-125-130. +Still runs ok- will not idle or accelerate or top out like it used to. What is going on? Please help!",How hard to replace pistons?,How hard to replace pistons?,"aliboy said: + + + + Could be (amongst a lot of other things) a bad gudgeon pin/bearing. There is a simple test. Take out the spark plugs and put a long piece of dowel or similar down one of the plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand until the dowel shows that that cylinder is a TDC (top of the stroke). Rotate the flywheel another 3 or 4 degress past TDC then stop. Next push firmly on the dowel to see if the piston can be moved by the dowel. Do this for each cylinder by rotating each one just past TDC. On a good engine the piston will not move. On an older engine you might just detect a very tiny movement. ON a bad engine you will feel a definite movement and usually hear a 'click/clunk' type noise. This test gives a rough check of both the gudgeon and big end bearings. It isn't perfect, but is a quick way to check for what is a reasonably common problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you guys for the quick response!! I do have the lower unit removed and found that I had a broken control bracket. I ordered a new one $44... That may have been some of the noise I had thought was the lower crank vibrating around in there. But after letting it run for 10-15 seconds the flywheel does have a rough motion to it I wondered if one of my magnets came off the inside of the flywheel or maybe I'm just over thinking this whole thing and it's just simply a new control arm that I needed. I took off the pull start cover and tried to get down into the flywheel to check it out but I do not have a fly wheel puller so I was a stand still. Motor runs great with lower unit not on, but still some off noise coming from the flywheel. I'm going to get a puller this week and try to get in there just for peace of mind I know everything is good to go for this motor. Is it possible I'm missing a couple magnets and my timing / spark is being thrown off? + +I did not try the wood dowel trick yet, but I really do appreciate the input. As for now waiting on a couple parts for the motor and we'll see what happens!" +"I have a 2006 Yamaha 200 V-Max I have weak compression on 2 cyclinders. 70-125-130-90-125-130. +Still runs ok- will not idle or accelerate or top out like it used to. What is going on? Please help!",Not that hard but it may require machine work and outside expertise.------But take the heads off now.----Just a few bolts.,Not that hard but it may require machine work and outside expertise.------But take the heads off now.----Just a few bolts.,Then again the RD-26 is not electric shift.------Perhaps you just have a cowling that says electramatic.------Perhaps you have an electramatic control ( one cable for throttle ) ?-----So without pictures I do not know what you have.----Or is there a shift lever on the starboard side of the lower cowling.-----Is there a belt driven generator ?----Is the gearcase long and pointy ?-----Details are so important.-----Or maybe the model plate is wrong ??-----I could tell in 1 second if I saw this motor ! +"I have a 2006 Yamaha 200 V-Max I have weak compression on 2 cyclinders. 70-125-130-90-125-130. +Still runs ok- will not idle or accelerate or top out like it used to. What is going on? Please help!",Can it be done with engine staying on boat? Do they make a short block for these or only a whole powerhead?,Can it be done with engine staying on boat? Do they make a short block for these or only a whole powerhead?,"Thanks for all of your help boscoe! + +I connected my Lowrance Elite Ti and motor to a NMEA 200 network I created. I used the Yamaha NMEA connection cable from Lowrance. +All worked out great! + + Initial data includes: Engine temp; RPM; Hours; Volts. + +I need to work with the FF more to see if any additional data can be had. Very satisfied with the results. + +Thanks again!" +"I have a 2006 Yamaha 200 V-Max I have weak compression on 2 cyclinders. 70-125-130-90-125-130. +Still runs ok- will not idle or accelerate or top out like it used to. What is going on? Please help!",No powerhead must be taken right apart.-----In my opinion you should invest in a manual to see if you and your garage / neighbors / helpers / tool box etc are up to this kind of work.,No powerhead must be taken right apart.-----In my opinion you should invest in a manual to see if you and your garage / neighbors / helpers / tool box etc are up to this kind of work.,"boscoe said: + + + + What country are you in? In what country was the motor distributed? + +Click to expand... + + +South Africa" +"I have a 2006 Yamaha 200 V-Max I have weak compression on 2 cyclinders. 70-125-130-90-125-130. +Still runs ok- will not idle or accelerate or top out like it used to. What is going on? Please help!",ok- THanks,ok- THanks,125-150 psi is good compression +I have a 2005 Yamaha F225TXRD engine with 400hours. My temperature alarm is going off only when I am idling or or trolling a slowest speed after 5-10 min. Never goes off at higher RPM/Speeds. Any ideas? Thanks,Has the waterpump ever been changed? Is the telltale stream warmer than usual? Can you hold your finger on either cylinder head for a 7 second count without scorching. A 20 $ infrared temp. gun would a wise investment for your toolbox,Has the waterpump ever been changed? Is the telltale stream warmer than usual? Can you hold your finger on either cylinder head for a 7 second count without scorching. A 20 $ infrared temp. gun would a wise investment for your toolbox,"I say all three carbs should open exactly the same. Any carb that doesn't and runs lean compared to the other two at WOT or throughout the RPM range runs the risk of fried rings/scored cyl walls/melted cylinder head as it will be running lean and not getting the same amount of fuel (and the lubricating oil in it) as the other two. + +Can't comment much on the cables... Is this a single lever throttle/shifter actuating two cables or seperate throttle & shift levers each actuating its own cable? There should be adjustments for the cables in engine where the plastic sleeves that house the push/pull rods inside the cables are anchored to a bracket. Are there some adjustable rings that allow you to move the cable housing fore and aft thereby adjusting the throw of each rod in either direction? When you move from WOT on the throttle to closed/idle/neutral position does the throttle linkage in the engine reach the fully closed position before the throttle lever fully reaches idle/neutral position? if so is sounds like it needs adjusted such that it reaches fully closed/idle when the throtle lever reaches the idle/closed/neutral position... That adjustment should equate to more travel as you advance from idle to WOT." +I have a 2005 Yamaha F225TXRD engine with 400hours. My temperature alarm is going off only when I am idling or or trolling a slowest speed after 5-10 min. Never goes off at higher RPM/Speeds. Any ideas? Thanks,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Has the waterpump ever been changed? Is the telltale stream warmer than usual? Can you hold your finger on either cylinder head for a 7 second count without scorching. A 20 $ infrared temp. gun would a wise investment for your toolbox + +Click to expand... + + +Temperature stays around or just above 160 degrees... thanks!","johnnygjr said: + + + + Has the waterpump ever been changed? Is the telltale stream warmer than usual? Can you hold your finger on either cylinder head for a 7 second count without scorching. A 20 $ infrared temp. gun would a wise investment for your toolbox + +Click to expand... + + +Temperature stays around or just above 160 degrees... thanks!","Good information, much appreciated. I will mention this to my mechanic. Pretty sure he already checked the coil and it was fine. Since it's just the one cylinder I'm not sure timing could be an issue. The ECM is also on his list. Yamaha also told him to check and make sure a cylinder sleeve hasn't turned (honestly not sure what they means but ok)." +I have a 2005 Yamaha F225TXRD engine with 400hours. My temperature alarm is going off only when I am idling or or trolling a slowest speed after 5-10 min. Never goes off at higher RPM/Speeds. Any ideas? Thanks,Remove the lower unit. Using a strong flashlight look up into the exhaust system. What do you see?,Remove the lower unit. Using a strong flashlight look up into the exhaust system. What do you see?,"Choking riches the mix by closing the throttle valves, thus lessening the amount of air mix. If the engine is responding to a richer mix then the carbs need to be time/synced appropriately." +I have a 2005 Yamaha F225TXRD engine with 400hours. My temperature alarm is going off only when I am idling or or trolling a slowest speed after 5-10 min. Never goes off at higher RPM/Speeds. Any ideas? Thanks,"Baf, You need to answer our questions so we can help you. Are you positive it's a temp. alarm, Pull temp. sensor wire off and ground it alarm should stop, Possibly bad semsor","Baf, You need to answer our questions so we can help you. Are you positive it's a temp. alarm, Pull temp. sensor wire off and ground it alarm should stop, Possibly bad semsor","Well, it doesn't appear that it is tin plated multi-strand wire so I guess to do it correctly, it should all be replaced huh? Take the picture for instance. This doesn't look to be a safe connection to me and the wires doesn't appear to be tin stranded. These wires are a group of wires that lead to a harness. Do they sell the harness for this already complete or can I make a new harness? If so, is there a place on the web that explains how this is done? How would you advise this wire be repaired? + +Sorry for all the questions but this is my first attempt at this kind of job. I'm not afraid to tackle it, just want to do it correctly." +"Hello +I just bought my 1st boat, so I will be inundating you with some questions that may be dumb to most so please bare with me, and thank you for your help. +Here is what I have +2002 Triumph 190 Bay, with a 2002 Yamaha F115TLRA. +My 1st newby question is: When I start my engine with the garden hose muffs on it, should water be coming out of the higher water port? mine does not, does the engine have to get hot first? +Thanks again +Mike",How long did you run her? Have you asked p/o about this issue? A shop manual would be a good purchase. Start by running a weedwacker string up into telltale while she's running. Was engine run in saltwater? could be a buildup of salt throughout cooling system,How long did you run her? Have you asked p/o about this issue? A shop manual would be a good purchase. Start by running a weedwacker string up into telltale while she's running. Was engine run in saltwater? could be a buildup of salt throughout cooling system,"Pull cables from battery and clean terminals and all wiring connectors thoroughly. Clean grounds at starter& solenoid also. Fully charge battery and have load tested at a/parts store. If battery passes test ,check for 12.4-12.8 volts at battery terminal on starter,and solenoid. Check for continuity on cables from battery to starter+&-,disconnected from batt with dvm." +"Hello +I just bought my 1st boat, so I will be inundating you with some questions that may be dumb to most so please bare with me, and thank you for your help. +Here is what I have +2002 Triumph 190 Bay, with a 2002 Yamaha F115TLRA. +My 1st newby question is: When I start my engine with the garden hose muffs on it, should water be coming out of the higher water port? mine does not, does the engine have to get hot first? +Thanks again +Mike",need to make sure water is coming out of the pee tube up top sometimes you'll need to adj the muffs to help it out,need to make sure water is coming out of the pee tube up top sometimes you'll need to adj the muffs to help it out,"Unless your control cables are the same length and age, it will always be like that." +"Hello +I just bought my 1st boat, so I will be inundating you with some questions that may be dumb to most so please bare with me, and thank you for your help. +Here is what I have +2002 Triumph 190 Bay, with a 2002 Yamaha F115TLRA. +My 1st newby question is: When I start my engine with the garden hose muffs on it, should water be coming out of the higher water port? mine does not, does the engine have to get hot first? +Thanks again +Mike",Keep us posted,Keep us posted,"I’ve been working on the boat awhile. Finally finished the engine, rewired etc. sort of a rebuild. Just now getting to the trailer l raised the boasters an inch and the winch today. Straighten the bracket and replaced the roller. It loaded up real easy and there seems to be less pressure on the roller now. Time will tell. If it doesn’t hold up I’ll put a larger bracket and roller. Planning on taking it out tomorrow since I have everything on the engine done. I’ll see how it launches. But you may have a point I was looking at it and it seems like the trailer may have been built for a smaller boat. The tongue is short. The boats a 16’ extra wide extra deep and pretty heavy. Thanks for the comments.greatly appreciated." +"Why are no ""Enduro Series"" (models beginning with letter ""E"") ever listed for parts anywhere? +A 2007 motor is certainly not ancient, but I don't see any ""E"" models of any displacement listed in any parts source anywhere. Explanations or thoughts?","Certain Enduro models are listed in the Yamaha USA parts catalog. + +The last Enduro's offered by Yamaha US for the US market was circa the year 2000. You can still see them in the Yamaha US parts catalogs and obtain most if not all of the related parts. + +Enduro models are still offered in many parts of the world. Just not here in the US. You would need to contact a dealer that offered a 2007 Enduro model to obtain a parts catalog for it.","Certain Enduro models are listed in the Yamaha USA parts catalog. + +The last Enduro's offered by Yamaha US for the US market was circa the year 2000. You can still see them in the Yamaha US parts catalogs and obtain most if not all of the related parts. + +Enduro models are still offered in many parts of the world. Just not here in the US. You would need to contact a dealer that offered a 2007 Enduro model to obtain a parts catalog for it.","So I took the thermostat off, which is 11 years old and looked new somehow, and backflushed the system. I did not see anything come out but it could have. The inside of the block looks good, no flaking or heavy corrosion. + +Put the lower unit back on, put it in water and it worked perfectly. Tried the Yamaha Flush System, that worked perfectly too. Go figure. Had to be a mud dobber that got in through the Yamaha Flush System that I left open... That is my only guess." +"Why are no ""Enduro Series"" (models beginning with letter ""E"") ever listed for parts anywhere? +A 2007 motor is certainly not ancient, but I don't see any ""E"" models of any displacement listed in any parts source anywhere. Explanations or thoughts?","Thanks. I'm going to ""pass"" on this motor.","Thanks. I'm going to ""pass"" on this motor.",It's confirmed.. There was a hole in the exhaust port which allowed fumes to come up under the engine cover. The motor doesn't like breathing these fumes. +"I am considering buying this motor, private sale. Runs good for now --- but every motor needs maintenance, repair and parts. As near as I can determine, this ""Enduro Series"" may reflect motors manufactured for export from Japan to somewhere other than the U.S. That's just a guess on my part, based on the fact that I do not and cannot actually find the ED15DMH model reflected in any parts catalogs or sources (including here on MarineEngine.com). Engine also says 6B4K, if that helps. + +Needless to say, I am concerned about being able to find / identify replacement parts in the future if / when I cannot even find the E15DMH model number listed anywhere with various outboard parts sources in the U.S. Does anyone have any experience or thoughts or specific recommendations? (speculations and / or wild guesses are not particularly helpful). Thanks in advance.","You are correct. An E15DMH was never offered here in the US by Yamaha USA. Therefore, it won't be in any of the parts catalogs that are available at the Yamaha USA website. + +The E15DMH model was offered by other Yamaha distributors in other parts of the world. You would need to contact a dealer for the distributor in order to obtain the necessary parts catalog. + +6B4K is the prefix for the primary engine identification code. + +If you are risk averse the recommendation may be to not purchase the motor. If a bit of a gambler you could take a chance, recognizing that many of the Yamaha USA 15 HP two stroke models share the same parts as an E15.","You are correct. An E15DMH was never offered here in the US by Yamaha USA. Therefore, it won't be in any of the parts catalogs that are available at the Yamaha USA website. + +The E15DMH model was offered by other Yamaha distributors in other parts of the world. You would need to contact a dealer for the distributor in order to obtain the necessary parts catalog. + +6B4K is the prefix for the primary engine identification code. + +If you are risk averse the recommendation may be to not purchase the motor. If a bit of a gambler you could take a chance, recognizing that many of the Yamaha USA 15 HP two stroke models share the same parts as an E15.","I purchased mine from a local + +I purchased mine from a local marine business. + +Look at the one on your trailer actuator. +The manufacturer and part number should be STAMPED into it. Do a google search for that part number." +"I am considering buying this motor, private sale. Runs good for now --- but every motor needs maintenance, repair and parts. As near as I can determine, this ""Enduro Series"" may reflect motors manufactured for export from Japan to somewhere other than the U.S. That's just a guess on my part, based on the fact that I do not and cannot actually find the ED15DMH model reflected in any parts catalogs or sources (including here on MarineEngine.com). Engine also says 6B4K, if that helps. + +Needless to say, I am concerned about being able to find / identify replacement parts in the future if / when I cannot even find the E15DMH model number listed anywhere with various outboard parts sources in the U.S. Does anyone have any experience or thoughts or specific recommendations? (speculations and / or wild guesses are not particularly helpful). Thanks in advance.","Thanks for the input; much appreciated. I already decided not to proceed with this purchase after a conversation with the Parts counter at my local Yamaha dealer this morning. + I don't have the time or interest to remove old parts and then be forced to play ""try to match that part"" every time I need parts. No thanks. + +My best guess is that this engine may have been a ""kicker"" on a tender on some big bucks foreign yacht that came into Newport, RI and that the motor was simply left behind in RI when a repair or parts conversation inevitably led to a lot of puzzled expressions and head scratching. In any case, I'm ""passing"" on that E15DMH.","Thanks for the input; much appreciated. I already decided not to proceed with this purchase after a conversation with the Parts counter at my local Yamaha dealer this morning. + I don't have the time or interest to remove old parts and then be forced to play ""try to match that part"" every time I need parts. No thanks. + +My best guess is that this engine may have been a ""kicker"" on a tender on some big bucks foreign yacht that came into Newport, RI and that the motor was simply left behind in RI when a repair or parts conversation inevitably led to a lot of puzzled expressions and head scratching. In any case, I'm ""passing"" on that E15DMH.","This is a link to a trouble shooting guide that will help you pin point your problems. + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/doc...t.xml&backgroundColor=000000&showFlipBtn=true" +I'm new so be nice. i have this barn find motor that had a rats nest in it. i cleaned it all up and reconnected all the chewed wires. It fired right up and i was totally surprised. However a few weeks later sitting on it's back (I know now that's not right) it would not start. Maybe a few hits when using start fluid. The spark seems very week. I replaced the coil with a used one. I replaced the CDI with a new one no difference. i am retired and rebuild johnson/evinrude 9.9 and 15 hp 2 strokes with my eyes closed. But this ones got me. Any suggestions?,"Yamaha's traditionally have a weak spark,is it getting fuel? Layed up for that long I find it hard to believe the carb doesn't need cleaning","Yamaha's traditionally have a weak spark,is it getting fuel? Layed up for that long I find it hard to believe the carb doesn't need cleaning","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Ok, now I understand. Sounds like fuel is not getting to carbs while engine is running. Follow these steps: + +* Reconnect fuel pump hose to carbs. Dismount fuel pump. Have a friend prime the bulb as you look for a fuel leak behind the fuel pump. If it leaks, replace. If not, see below. +* Mount fuel pump. Start engine. Keep your hand around primer bulb, but do not squeeze. Take notice of the bulb and if it remains partially full or if it collapses. If it collapses, cut engine off. Re-prime bulb and start engine. This time, keep the primer bulb from collapsing by gently squeezing bulb. Don't let it collapse. Does engine continue to run? If so, replace fuel pump cause it's dead. + +Click to expand... + + +You are probably all right. Today i have dismount the fuel pump and the diaphragm is broken. I placed an order for the replacements parts and see this weekend if it works! Pretty sure it was an resolved case! + +Thank you" +I'm new so be nice. i have this barn find motor that had a rats nest in it. i cleaned it all up and reconnected all the chewed wires. It fired right up and i was totally surprised. However a few weeks later sitting on it's back (I know now that's not right) it would not start. Maybe a few hits when using start fluid. The spark seems very week. I replaced the coil with a used one. I replaced the CDI with a new one no difference. i am retired and rebuild johnson/evinrude 9.9 and 15 hp 2 strokes with my eyes closed. But this ones got me. Any suggestions?,Have you ohmed out the coil,Have you ohmed out the coil,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Yes, with a new engine. These engines just rot away over time. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks. Do you think its repairable or not?" +Motor runs good if I idle it up will not idle just had it out last fri an it ran fine. Thinking maybe I got something in the carburetor I've run carburetor cleaner through it seems to run a little better but still it will not idle. Motor is a 115 txrp Yamaha v4 1991,Carburetor probably needs to be cleaned. Running carb cleaner through it is not the same as cleaning it.,Carburetor probably needs to be cleaned. Running carb cleaner through it is not the same as cleaning it.,"Yeah I plan on pumping it out from here on out. I have changed oil on a bunch of stuff with aluminum pans but it sounds like these ones are really soft. I was just wanting to see if anyone else has used this spec before and ensure I didn’t already destroy the threads. I would imagine if they were gone my wrench wouldn’t have clicked. If this washer is indeed a crush washer like it looks like then I doubt any damage was done. + +Is the mity vac the way to go for an extractor or will the cheaper electric pumps off amazon hold up for a while?" +"I have 60 Yamaha 4 stroke that rough idles and eventually dies out. The thing is when I put it in gear and run it at low and/or RPMs it runs perfectly. Any advice on what the problem could be, or a checklist of the potential things to check will be greatly appreciated.","Start at the bottom of fuel tank pickup tube,might be a clogged screen, Check all clamps and hoses for security, IF you have a fuel/water separator, Dump contents into a clear container,sit overnite,look for contaniments at bottom. Is the primer bulb pumping up firmly? Does pumping primer bulb while running help, need asst. This would indicate a fuel delivery issue,clogged filters,weak fuel pump. Is fuel tank clean? Is fuel old or new? New fuel mixed with last years?","Start at the bottom of fuel tank pickup tube,might be a clogged screen, Check all clamps and hoses for security, IF you have a fuel/water separator, Dump contents into a clear container,sit overnite,look for contaniments at bottom. Is the primer bulb pumping up firmly? Does pumping primer bulb while running help, need asst. This would indicate a fuel delivery issue,clogged filters,weak fuel pump. Is fuel tank clean? Is fuel old or new? New fuel mixed with last years?",Guyjg....it dont really matter if you have a regulated supply...the current will decrease with resistance increase in the load....lets take a corroded negative battery terminal on a boat for example....if you measure from the negative terminal of the battery to the positive terminal from the terminal with no load lets say you read 12.7v...if you move the negative lead from the battery to the block with no load you will still read 12.7...ok...try to turn the motor over and take the same readings and you will see a difference in voltage between the motor ground and the negative post on the battery....no amount of regulation will remove that drop...the current from the battery will decrease compared to a good cable....its like pushing water through a hose with some restriction in it..water flow will drop...the same would apply to the positive side of the battery having a problem except the reading would differ between the starter positive post and the battery positive post... the heat you feel on an corroded cable or connection is because the bad spot has become a resistor..all resistors dissipate heat...a small low wattage resistor would burn up in this situation....actually with a connection you are drawing less current from the battery in most cases..i say most cases because you can blow a fuse if the connectoin is intermittent and you draw an arc..but thats a whole new discussion and unimportant on 99.9 % of our problems...Aliboy is basically correct in his statement that a regular meter draws a very small amount of current when measuring voltage...the better the meter the less current but thats why a regular meter is inaccurate(and will damage) in most electronic circuits and not used....they build expensive meters and oscilloscopes for that purpose...but they would still read the drop in voltage under load...(i know you know all this Guyjg but i figure if i put it up then some who dont understand it will read it) +"Engine will not turn over; I have replaced the starter, solenoid, checked battery-new, etc. and do not know what to do next. The starter and solenoid is getting power, but it will only turn over one time. +Please help! + +Thank you, +Ernie","Pull plugs,to see if she will turnover by hand","Pull plugs,to see if she will turnover by hand","I don't know the controls you have, but on a number of other brands you hold the station select switch down as you move into gear and that prevents the gears from changing as you advance the throttle. Whether Yamaha has incorporated this idea I don't know." +"Engine will not turn over; I have replaced the starter, solenoid, checked battery-new, etc. and do not know what to do next. The starter and solenoid is getting power, but it will only turn over one time. +Please help! + +Thank you, +Ernie","""johnnygjr 615015 ""Pull plugs,to see if she will turnover by hand"" + +Ok, I pulled the plugs and turned it over with the ignition switch; while it did turn over, it was awfully slow and sounded awful! Nonetheless, it did turn over. What next or what do you think??? +Thanks so much for your help. +Ernie","""johnnygjr 615015 ""Pull plugs,to see if she will turnover by hand"" + +Ok, I pulled the plugs and turned it over with the ignition switch; while it did turn over, it was awfully slow and sounded awful! Nonetheless, it did turn over. What next or what do you think??? +Thanks so much for your help. +Ernie", +"Engine will not turn over; I have replaced the starter, solenoid, checked battery-new, etc. and do not know what to do next. The starter and solenoid is getting power, but it will only turn over one time. +Please help! + +Thank you, +Ernie",Borrow a borescope and look inside the cylinders with the pistons at the bottom of the cylinder,Borrow a borescope and look inside the cylinders with the pistons at the bottom of the cylinder,"The ""stringers"" are the boards under the floor that run front to back.Big,big job that you are getting into,lol.Have fun." +"Engine will not turn over; I have replaced the starter, solenoid, checked battery-new, etc. and do not know what to do next. The starter and solenoid is getting power, but it will only turn over one time. +Please help! + +Thank you, +Ernie","By the way, the prop won’t turn. Seems as if the motor has seized up. Don’t understand. Was running fine when I turned it off????? +HELP!!!!!","By the way, the prop won’t turn. Seems as if the motor has seized up. Don’t understand. Was running fine when I turned it off????? +HELP!!!!!","Makomark - Yep, I forgot to mention the liquid neoprene. I use the stuff called liquid electrical tape, or something like that. Also, you are correct on using the shrink wrap on standard connectors, they normally work fine. However, I've notice that the ones with the shrink-wrap already attached seem to be heavier duty, so I still prefer those when I have them." +What is this on each side of my outboard ? I had an incident with a battery charger a while back that arched and caused some what appears to be ground wires melt. This is no longer attached and I dont know what it does. It usually has a cover on it.,Rubber mounts,Rubber mounts,"rudder1 said: + + + + Yes I meant Faria and thank you for your help. I will call my mechanic + +Click to expand... + +Any chance it could be a ground wire somewhere? Where does the wire hook up in the engine compartment for the gauge?" +"2011 Yamaha f150 4-strokes + +Man, I am super worried about what a leak-down test may show tomorrow. Both motor(s) have 400 hours on them. -Both 2011 year.... + +I have a rough idle on my starboard motor. The second plug from the top was dark and other 3 were nearly white. Coil sparking fine against housing. I replaced all four injectors with new ones and then all four plugs AND swapped plug wires.--no change. + +I am so damn worried there will be a valve issue. + +Is there something else that I should be thinking about?",Maybe a bad injector? Definately do a compression test first if the compression is good no need for a leakdown. Is the injector firing you can use a screwdriver to listen to the injectors put the screwdriver on the injector and put your ear on the handle. That cylinder is getting too much fuel leads me to believe its leaking possibly causing the other cylinders to be running too lean. Hopefully there is no damage to the valves or pistons. What color are the plugs on the other engine?,Maybe a bad injector? Definately do a compression test first if the compression is good no need for a leakdown. Is the injector firing you can use a screwdriver to listen to the injectors put the screwdriver on the injector and put your ear on the handle. That cylinder is getting too much fuel leads me to believe its leaking possibly causing the other cylinders to be running too lean. Hopefully there is no damage to the valves or pistons. What color are the plugs on the other engine?,"Mine is an 86 and has been  + +Mine is an 86 and has been 'treated'. The group making my hull switched resins in 88 so you may wanna check a four winns board or check with the factory service department...some dealers may know but I'd bet on the factory having the most accuracy due to the age. (no mention in the online owner's manual that I found.)" +"2011 Yamaha f150 4-strokes + +Man, I am super worried about what a leak-down test may show tomorrow. Both motor(s) have 400 hours on them. -Both 2011 year.... + +I have a rough idle on my starboard motor. The second plug from the top was dark and other 3 were nearly white. Coil sparking fine against housing. I replaced all four injectors with new ones and then all four plugs AND swapped plug wires.--no change. + +I am so damn worried there will be a valve issue. + +Is there something else that I should be thinking about?","Well, we went ahead and swapped all 4 injectors because I already had them in my bag to do. It didn't solve anything...bummer. + +The plugs were top to bottom: + +clean and white base of plug looked white +black, not crusty, but dryish and white base was more smokey +clean and white base of plug looked white +sale as above looked good. + +Motor was started and run about 15 min to achieve above. + +Didn't do squat to the other engine....","Well, we went ahead and swapped all 4 injectors because I already had them in my bag to do. It didn't solve anything...bummer. + +The plugs were top to bottom: + +clean and white base of plug looked white +black, not crusty, but dryish and white base was more smokey +clean and white base of plug looked white +sale as above looked good. + +Motor was started and run about 15 min to achieve above. + +Didn't do squat to the other engine....","Would this work on a 2013 f50 ? +Are there any differences or major changes to the motor this year ? +When did they introduce multipiont EFI ? +Any info would be great ! + +Thanks" +"2011 Yamaha f150 4-strokes + +Man, I am super worried about what a leak-down test may show tomorrow. Both motor(s) have 400 hours on them. -Both 2011 year.... + +I have a rough idle on my starboard motor. The second plug from the top was dark and other 3 were nearly white. Coil sparking fine against housing. I replaced all four injectors with new ones and then all four plugs AND swapped plug wires.--no change. + +I am so damn worried there will be a valve issue. + +Is there something else that I should be thinking about?",Being under 10yrs old you may not get many responses here. These rooms are for older engines that shops refuse to work on. Call it professional courtesy you may need to take it to a shop!,Being under 10yrs old you may not get many responses here. These rooms are for older engines that shops refuse to work on. Call it professional courtesy you may need to take it to a shop!,"CPSTECH said: + + + + I did find the three wires coming from the front controls that are from the tilt trim. They are cut at the back of the boat. 2 white wires and 1 red. Obviously, there is an up and down wire and a ground. Logically, i would think I could tie in on the existing, working switch but logically doesn't work for me with 12 volt wiring. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... Those would be, Power, Up, 'n Down wires,..... + +With 12v dc wirin', the ground usually takes place at the appliance,...." +"2011 Yamaha f150 4-strokes + +Man, I am super worried about what a leak-down test may show tomorrow. Both motor(s) have 400 hours on them. -Both 2011 year.... + +I have a rough idle on my starboard motor. The second plug from the top was dark and other 3 were nearly white. Coil sparking fine against housing. I replaced all four injectors with new ones and then all four plugs AND swapped plug wires.--no change. + +I am so damn worried there will be a valve issue. + +Is there something else that I should be thinking about?",Thanks. I will then.,Thanks. I will then.,"Success! Bottom line is that floats were not seating. First time was the junk build up. Second time was the float height setting. I had taken the carburetor to a marine mechanic and during disassembly he dropped one of the float pins. He opened a new package and replaced both. There was still no joy, same flooding out of the carburetor. + +I measured everything with a caliper and found the new float pins to be 0.005"" smaller in diameter then the old ones, so I put old ones from one of the other carburetors in and noticed a lot less side to side movement of the floats. I also set the floats to 0.068"" above the body rather than the specified 0.063"" +/- 0.002"". Motor started right up!!! :rolleyes:" +"2011 Yamaha f150 4-strokes + +Man, I am super worried about what a leak-down test may show tomorrow. Both motor(s) have 400 hours on them. -Both 2011 year.... + +I have a rough idle on my starboard motor. The second plug from the top was dark and other 3 were nearly white. Coil sparking fine against housing. I replaced all four injectors with new ones and then all four plugs AND swapped plug wires.--no change. + +I am so damn worried there will be a valve issue. + +Is there something else that I should be thinking about?","Thought I would close this with what was wrong... + +Seems my previous owner attempted to monkey with carbs. The adjusting screws that had to do with syncing the carbs were adjusted with a Yamaha software filled laptop and a certified mechanic for Yamaha, a little tweaking and he completely smoothed out the missing cylinder and all is well!","Thought I would close this with what was wrong... + +Seems my previous owner attempted to monkey with carbs. The adjusting screws that had to do with syncing the carbs were adjusted with a Yamaha software filled laptop and a certified mechanic for Yamaha, a little tweaking and he completely smoothed out the missing cylinder and all is well!","As said above put in vice and heat , if you don't have air chisel, 2 people with hammers and punches. Dont worry about damage to cap. You can buy cap,shaft and piston with all new seal as a assembly." +https://ibb.co/eEdRe8Hello guys I need some help with the oil pump adjustment on a Yamaha 60hp 2stroke 1997 model right now it’s like this no idea if it’s adjusted properly... any help ? Thanks for reading,Anyone ?,Anyone ?,"yes I understand. + +the proper method of brakes both on same axle unfortunately thats not a option please reread post1. + +looks like I'm gonna wing it w/ one brake (I did purchase 2 brakes) but currently can only mount one. + +thanks I guess + +I think it's better to have one brake than none? remember my vessel/trailer is less than 3K LBs + +my new tow vehicle has 13"" front/rear disc brakes however it only weighs 4750LBs" +"The solenoid that connects to the throttle control on the carburetor (the best way I can describe it. I don't know the actual name) came completely loose and is dangling by a single wire. I can figure out how it is supposed to reattach, except for 1) I don't know where the other short wire coming out of the bottom is supposed to attach, and 2) The way the unit reattaches to the motor allows it to slide up and down to be positioned correctly. I don't know what the correct position is. + +This problem came to light when I was out on the water today and every time I tried to accelerate past mid-throttle, it behaved erratically, pulsing up and down. Would this unit falling off as it did be the cause? I had someone work on the boat a couple of years ago and it has run fine until today. There is no chance that he would have left this hanging as part of the repair, is there? + +I had a photo that I wanted to attach, but the system wouldn't let me. If anyone could just send a photo or diagram showing how 6E5-86110-03-00 is supposed to go in, that would be helpful. + +Thanks.",Found the answer myself. It's the choke!,Found the answer myself. It's the choke!,Here is a video of the cold start and stall. Does it sound odd to anyone? +Yamaha F150,"Catastrophic engine damage. Looks like a connecting rod has broken and ""helicoptered"" the block. The connecting rod flying around has knock holes in the block.","Catastrophic engine damage. Looks like a connecting rod has broken and ""helicoptered"" the block. The connecting rod flying around has knock holes in the block.","What part are you calling an ""Oil Mixer""? What work did you actually do. It sounds like you have a low oil warning (could be temperature as well), but not sure what you have actually been changing/installing." +Yamaha F150,What causes this in a motor with <20 hours?,What causes this in a motor with <20 hours?,Is it possible that this design just doesn't have the typical float being level with body measurement and float is intended to drop farther down? +Yamaha F150,"That is the tough question. Hard, maybe all but impossible, to know why the failure happened. + +Not common but not unheard of either. + +With less than 20 hours time I suspect the motor is new and under warranty. In which case a new block will be provided. They will remove all of the undamaged parts from your motor and install them on a brand new block. Together with new parts to replace any collaterally damaged parts. The new block, dressed with all of the needed parts, will be installed on your motor. + +It is life. Sh1t happens.","That is the tough question. Hard, maybe all but impossible, to know why the failure happened. + +Not common but not unheard of either. + +With less than 20 hours time I suspect the motor is new and under warranty. In which case a new block will be provided. They will remove all of the undamaged parts from your motor and install them on a brand new block. Together with new parts to replace any collaterally damaged parts. The new block, dressed with all of the needed parts, will be installed on your motor. + +It is life. Sh1t happens.","Ayuh,.... Very common,...... anything over 10, 15 years old is suspect,......." +Yamaha F150,"boscoe said: + + + + That is the tough question. Hard, maybe all but impossible, to know why the failure happened. + +Not common but not unheard of either. + +With less than 20 hours time I suspect the motor is new and under warranty. In which case a new block will be provided. They will remove all of the undamaged parts from your motor and install them on a brand new block. Together with new parts to replace any collaterally damaged parts. The new block, dressed with all of the needed parts, will be installed on your motor. + +It is life. Sh1t happens. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for your help. It's a new motor and on the way to the dealer for evaluation and what I assume will be warranty replacement/repair. It is very helpful to at least have a little bit of knowledge about it. I don't always love/trust the dealer so a quick outside opinion is a bit help. + +Thanks again, I appreciate it.","boscoe said: + + + + That is the tough question. Hard, maybe all but impossible, to know why the failure happened. + +Not common but not unheard of either. + +With less than 20 hours time I suspect the motor is new and under warranty. In which case a new block will be provided. They will remove all of the undamaged parts from your motor and install them on a brand new block. Together with new parts to replace any collaterally damaged parts. The new block, dressed with all of the needed parts, will be installed on your motor. + +It is life. Sh1t happens. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for your help. It's a new motor and on the way to the dealer for evaluation and what I assume will be warranty replacement/repair. It is very helpful to at least have a little bit of knowledge about it. I don't always love/trust the dealer so a quick outside opinion is a bit help. + +Thanks again, I appreciate it.","Kelseyroyal said: + + + + Desperately need someone to tell me what I’m doing wrong here. I’ve tried hooking up all of the wires exactly how this diagram shows to no avail. Would literally venmo someone who can help with this. For whatever reason, when hooking up the yellow coming from the gauges into the red from the harness, it’ll work just without lights. Otherwise, hooking it up as shows gives me nothing. +please and thank you + +Click to expand... + + +Red is never connected to yellow. Where in the diagram are you seeing that?" +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Run it at WOT for a few minutes.Then shut it off while its at high RPM and pull the plugs abd see how they are burning. +Post pics. +Sometimes the only difference in HP is the modual.Had a Merc 225 and the dif.between the 200 and 250 was the ECU. +Look up the specs on your motor for bore and stroke and compare to the 60.J","Run it at WOT for a few minutes.Then shut it off while its at high RPM and pull the plugs abd see how they are burning. +Post pics. +Sometimes the only difference in HP is the modual.Had a Merc 225 and the dif.between the 200 and 250 was the ECU. +Look up the specs on your motor for bore and stroke and compare to the 60.J","You can also test the thermoswitch's continuity. The switch is open from room temp up to around 165º, closes thereafter." +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.",The specs for the 50 and the 60 are the same except two things....the 50 has a restrictor plate in the air intake and the ECU has a slightly different part number but the ECU's are listed as interchangeable.,The specs for the 50 and the 60 are the same except two things....the 50 has a restrictor plate in the air intake and the ECU has a slightly different part number but the ECU's are listed as interchangeable.,A friend of mine just tried the homemade story in Louisiana...they wanted receipts for the materials used to build it..i would see if i could get a copy of the registration requirements of that county in florida and see if they will buy that along with the bill of sale...if they dont ask them for the form that you need..deal with the highest level of idiot you can on this issue..bureaucrats are a pain in the butt no matter what state you live in on this issue.... +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Bump... + +Anyone else know about this this topic?","Bump... + +Anyone else know about this this topic?","Not ""live wells"".... fill w/ ice put what you catch and want to keep in.... plugs are for draining only..." +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Chris: + + I stumbled across your post, while researching the 50 to 60 upgrade and followed the link to the Refuge. I haven’t much else on the topic, still searching. If I find any info I will post it here. + +Is yours still running fine?","Chris: + + I stumbled across your post, while researching the 50 to 60 upgrade and followed the link to the Refuge. I haven’t much else on the topic, still searching. If I find any info I will post it here. + +Is yours still running fine?",6g4 is the primary number plug it in at Yamaha outboard parts page +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Still running like a dream Gary. Around 10 hrs use now. + +I emailed a technical advice guy in the US about it (sells performance parts for outboards) and his response was.. + +""One thing is for sure, you will not damage either the ECU or any other part. Maximum you will detect flat spot when throttling or throttle response will spoil if the air is too much."" + +Thats as far as Ive gotten with info since last post, but someone has told me the ECU can be re-programmed with the 60HP data. Can't confirm this and dont really think it will make much difference. + +The restrictor is staying out of my engine.","Still running like a dream Gary. Around 10 hrs use now. + +I emailed a technical advice guy in the US about it (sells performance parts for outboards) and his response was.. + +""One thing is for sure, you will not damage either the ECU or any other part. Maximum you will detect flat spot when throttling or throttle response will spoil if the air is too much."" + +Thats as far as Ive gotten with info since last post, but someone has told me the ECU can be re-programmed with the 60HP data. Can't confirm this and dont really think it will make much difference. + +The restrictor is staying out of my engine.",What is the length and approx weight of the boat is this engine is hung on? +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Sounds like your talking about the newer yamaha outboards. i have an 86' carb'd yamaha 70ETLJ. I was wondering if anyone has ever swapped the jets and needle out with jets and needle from the 90ELTJ. I have done some research, the part numbers are very very close to the same. it is simply changing the needle and going from a #78 to #80 Jet and from a 150 Main to 165 Main Jet. I thought of this because my buddy has an old carb'd mariner 115 and his mechanic swapped in the mariner 150 jets and he now has a 150 with 115 decals. There is quite a difference in power all around. Do you think the 90 jets would make a noticeable increase in power? I want to guess for some reason the top end might gain a max of another 5-6MPH, but the bottom end would benefit most when coming out of the hole. What are your thoughts? Let me know any of your thoughts","Sounds like your talking about the newer yamaha outboards. i have an 86' carb'd yamaha 70ETLJ. I was wondering if anyone has ever swapped the jets and needle out with jets and needle from the 90ELTJ. I have done some research, the part numbers are very very close to the same. it is simply changing the needle and going from a #78 to #80 Jet and from a 150 Main to 165 Main Jet. I thought of this because my buddy has an old carb'd mariner 115 and his mechanic swapped in the mariner 150 jets and he now has a 150 with 115 decals. There is quite a difference in power all around. Do you think the 90 jets would make a noticeable increase in power? I want to guess for some reason the top end might gain a max of another 5-6MPH, but the bottom end would benefit most when coming out of the hole. What are your thoughts? Let me know any of your thoughts",never ever have your humming bird on while you start the engine. start the engine........then power up the hummingbird. (same advice that is in the owners manual) +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Chris79 said: + + + + Still running like a dream Gary. Around 10 hrs use now. + +I emailed a technical advice guy in the US about it (sells performance parts for outboards) and his response was.. + +""One thing is for sure, you will not damage either the ECU or any other part. Maximum you will detect flat spot when throttling or throttle response will spoil if the air is too much."" + +Thats as far as Ive gotten with info since last post, but someone has told me the ECU can be re-programmed with the 60HP data. Can't confirm this and dont really think it will make much difference. + +The restrictor is staying out of my engine. + +Click to expand... + +No problem. I can help you and reprogram the ECU from YAMAHA F50 to F60, F80 to F100 is a small fee. We also have an option to disable the function of IMMO.","Chris79 said: + + + + Still running like a dream Gary. Around 10 hrs use now. + +I emailed a technical advice guy in the US about it (sells performance parts for outboards) and his response was.. + +""One thing is for sure, you will not damage either the ECU or any other part. Maximum you will detect flat spot when throttling or throttle response will spoil if the air is too much."" + +Thats as far as Ive gotten with info since last post, but someone has told me the ECU can be re-programmed with the 60HP data. Can't confirm this and dont really think it will make much difference. + +The restrictor is staying out of my engine. + +Click to expand... + +No problem. I can help you and reprogram the ECU from YAMAHA F50 to F60, F80 to F100 is a small fee. We also have an option to disable the function of IMMO.",This motor doesn't have a heat sensor. If you get satisfactory results from the oil pressure verification. You can move on to further diagnosis. The possibilities are many. +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","audis said: + + + + No problem. I can help you and reprogram the ECU from YAMAHA F50 to F60, F80 to F100 is a small fee. We also have an option to disable the function of IMMO. + +Click to expand... + + +Im interested please let me know how we can do this? What is the IMMO again?","audis said: + + + + No problem. I can help you and reprogram the ECU from YAMAHA F50 to F60, F80 to F100 is a small fee. We also have an option to disable the function of IMMO. + +Click to expand... + + +Im interested please let me know how we can do this? What is the IMMO again?",What is the serial number of the motor? Early F40LA's had a bulletin issue for VST fuel pumps. Did you have the bulletin work done? +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.",See PM,See PM,"racerone said: + + + + So you want to seal that cracked / blown out area.-----Try JB weld.-----But I think a fresh water used assembly is a better option. + +Click to expand... + + + Yeah its still on the boat. Idk how well it will come apart. idk." +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","But remember that your motor, or any motor for that matter, has only so many hphours. If you get more hp out of it then it's life will get shorter.","But remember that your motor, or any motor for that matter, has only so many hphours. If you get more hp out of it then it's life will get shorter.","TBrutlag said: + + + + Hello Frank +Give us a little more history on your motor. What was the reason you change all the filters and injectors? + +Click to expand... + + +I just purchased the boat so I decided to give it a tune up. Filter""s ,oil,lower unit general maintenance. The boat was sitting all winter at the Marina. When I started it for the first time out of the water it ran well, the second time it ran rough and the third time it would in turn over. I pulled the injectors and they were clogged. I installed another set of injectors and the engine ran well. I put it in the water the other day now I can't get the rpm's up under load." +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","villtur said: + + + + But remember that your motor, or any motor for that matter, has only so many hphours. If you get more hp out of it then it's life will get shorter. + +Click to expand... + +Yes. that is part of the truth even if it were tuning programming, but in this case I just rewrite the program inside the ECU from original F60 to F50. This is the same as buy a new ECU. + +It can also be transcribed from F50 to F60, but whether it is someone like it","villtur said: + + + + But remember that your motor, or any motor for that matter, has only so many hphours. If you get more hp out of it then it's life will get shorter. + +Click to expand... + +Yes. that is part of the truth even if it were tuning programming, but in this case I just rewrite the program inside the ECU from original F60 to F50. This is the same as buy a new ECU. + +It can also be transcribed from F50 to F60, but whether it is someone like it","Talked to a guy at the shop. He said simplest test is A) With ignition off, put positive lead to alternator output and negative to ground. Meter should read battery voltage, which was 12.66V on meter. B) Start engine and run @ 2k rpm. Voltage should jump 2 volts. My test read 15V. Is my alternator OK? Tks." +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","""This is the same as buy a new ECU."" which also will shorten the motor's life. In short; there is no substitute for cubic inches. More hp from same volume gives shorter life.","""This is the same as buy a new ECU."" which also will shorten the motor's life. In short; there is no substitute for cubic inches. More hp from same volume gives shorter life.","Injectors may not be leaking but they could be clogged or restricted. + +Ironic... firstday taking the boat out this memorial weekend for the season and I again havethe same problem as you (which I had 2 years ago). Ran fine for about 1/2 hourand then became starved for fuel. Can only reach 2700 RPM and push the throttlefurther she gets a bit deep throated. Vibration and fuel flow rattles all kinds of gunk lose beginning of the seasonso I know it’s another restriction in filters somewhere caused by the 1[SUP]st[/SUP]running. So, I am starting the sameprocess again as I did 2 years ago. I've pulled the fuel injectors and will besending them out for cleaning as I recommended you try in my prior post. Atleast your VST filter is cleaned and you know that isn't the problem. Thepressure regulator you mention... I've looked at it and researched as well inmy past experience. I read that if it looks to be in good shape with nocorrosion on the top/outside etc. it should be good. I believe some models hadproblems with water draining under the top of the cowling that would drop onand rust the top of it but mine looked good so I wasn't about to pay $220 for afuel pressure regulator on a ghost hunt. Pull the fuel injectors and send them outfor cleaning to Fuel Injector Man (where mine are headed this week). I'm alsoordering a new VST filter because I won't put cleaned injectors in if there's aprob with my VST filter so I'll go in and out and replace that before I put myinjectors back in. If you want to try it, you can try to clean/clear theinjectors yourself. There are lots of youtube videos on how to clean themyourself that require screwing around a great deal... I just bought a few cansof carb cleaner, gently held the injector in a vice and attached 12V +/- to thefeeds. You'll hear the injector click open and then you BACK BLAST through thespray nozzles NOT FROM BACK. You want to drive any junk out the back and out ofthe filters, not ram it from the back up through the filters and into into thespray nozzles. I believe a short 3/8"" ID piece of hose about 3"" longwill fit perfectly over the nozzle housing. Then stick the thin jet spray tubefrom the carb cleaner can into the 3/8"" hose and crimp the hose off tightwith a pliers to hold some pressure while you back spray. Blast away. Gothrough all 4 injectors and then put them back in and see if that helps theproblem. It may fix it but if it at least gives you a significant improvement,you prob found the problem and can then send all out and have them fullycleaned with filters replaced. Let me know how it goes. Fun Fun. Rule of life... Never have more toys than you care to take care of!" +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Yes. But only if the motor is more than 50% of the time work the maximum speed. But reality shows that the engine operates most of the time up to 3000 rpm. +Also, not to manufacture Yamaha's F60 model if it would be unstable","Yes. But only if the motor is more than 50% of the time work the maximum speed. But reality shows that the engine operates most of the time up to 3000 rpm. +Also, not to manufacture Yamaha's F60 model if it would be unstable","Thanks for the info, it sure sounded like an electrical issue, with the 35 sec. hiccup at any RPM. This is really a tough nut to crack. My motor is fuel injected. I am thinking it may be a sensor that is on the ""fritz"". Eager to hear what you find. Good luck" +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Of course you are correct. But if you don't plan to squeeze every last drop of horsepower out of the motor what's the use of buying it for many money? +But to each his own. Who am I to mind how other people use their money? +Have fun.","Of course you are correct. But if you don't plan to squeeze every last drop of horsepower out of the motor what's the use of buying it for many money? +But to each his own. Who am I to mind how other people use their money? +Have fun.",Wipe the oil off and go boating. +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Yes you are absolutely right. But in life come in the situation where people receive a gift engine or other means. And the power of them is low, and sell the existing engine is quite difficult, and buy a new need to add a significant amount of money. And therefore remains one of the options to try to increase their own power. + Sorry for my English","Yes you are absolutely right. But in life come in the situation where people receive a gift engine or other means. And the power of them is low, and sell the existing engine is quite difficult, and buy a new need to add a significant amount of money. And therefore remains one of the options to try to increase their own power. + Sorry for my English",Right angle adapter for the grease gun. Any auto parts store or major hardware store will have one. +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Hi All, thanks for the useful information within this thread, I have been looking at doing similar to my 2007 F80BETL as looking at the bore/stroke rates all seems identical between it and the F100, the squish area in the head may be a slightly different design but i doubt it as most manufacturers prefer to use common parts where they can. + +For those worried about a change of ECU this is not really an issue, there may be some slight fuel and timing map differences however all modern EFI ECU's are designed to notice and adapt to changed conditions, they have an AFM, TPS and an O2 sensor to give feedback to the ECU to control spark retardation and fuel map positions. The ECU will adapt to the higher airflow by pushing the fuel load higher in the map table to suit but still try to maintain AFR at stoic. The only exception to this is at WOT (wide open throttle) at this point the fuel map is at peak, if there is a difference between the two ECU's then this is where it will have the most effect by running the engine lean, for me this is no issue as I almost never run my engine at WOT mostly its about 1000rpm below the limiter and for me thats only 4500rpm at around 21Kn + +Anyway some useful information for reference as I have just removed the restrictor in my engine.... + +The restrictor in the F80 reduces the intake port diameter to 24mm. Without the restrictor the diameter is 41mm, thats a significant difference. The restrictor is actually really well designed with good fluting on each side. What this means is that on removal there may be some change in the airflow characteristics toward the intake port. When looking at the length and design of the runners they seem to be a tuned length. fortunately they are quite long runners so most turbulence will be settled before they hit the intake and IMHO any flow distortion and fuel droplet issue at the injector will be negligable compared to HP gain. + +Just a quick one on flow rate for those technically minded, these are not hugely accurate as there are too many variables but... +assuming 3cm length and 0.1bar pressure drop + +40mm flows 678cc +24mm flows 238cc + +I wont get the boat on the water for a couple of weeks but once I do ill let you know how much difference it will make. If someone can host them I have plenty of photos of the removal and dimensions that could be posted up.","Hi All, thanks for the useful information within this thread, I have been looking at doing similar to my 2007 F80BETL as looking at the bore/stroke rates all seems identical between it and the F100, the squish area in the head may be a slightly different design but i doubt it as most manufacturers prefer to use common parts where they can. + +For those worried about a change of ECU this is not really an issue, there may be some slight fuel and timing map differences however all modern EFI ECU's are designed to notice and adapt to changed conditions, they have an AFM, TPS and an O2 sensor to give feedback to the ECU to control spark retardation and fuel map positions. The ECU will adapt to the higher airflow by pushing the fuel load higher in the map table to suit but still try to maintain AFR at stoic. The only exception to this is at WOT (wide open throttle) at this point the fuel map is at peak, if there is a difference between the two ECU's then this is where it will have the most effect by running the engine lean, for me this is no issue as I almost never run my engine at WOT mostly its about 1000rpm below the limiter and for me thats only 4500rpm at around 21Kn + +Anyway some useful information for reference as I have just removed the restrictor in my engine.... + +The restrictor in the F80 reduces the intake port diameter to 24mm. Without the restrictor the diameter is 41mm, thats a significant difference. The restrictor is actually really well designed with good fluting on each side. What this means is that on removal there may be some change in the airflow characteristics toward the intake port. When looking at the length and design of the runners they seem to be a tuned length. fortunately they are quite long runners so most turbulence will be settled before they hit the intake and IMHO any flow distortion and fuel droplet issue at the injector will be negligable compared to HP gain. + +Just a quick one on flow rate for those technically minded, these are not hugely accurate as there are too many variables but... +assuming 3cm length and 0.1bar pressure drop + +40mm flows 678cc +24mm flows 238cc + +I wont get the boat on the water for a couple of weeks but once I do ill let you know how much difference it will make. If someone can host them I have plenty of photos of the removal and dimensions that could be posted up.","If the engine idles once started and runs as it should, the carbs are fine. Hard starting on an V4 Yamaha two stroke with a mechanical choke is usually a bad fuel pump(leaking into the crank case), or the gasket on the carb cover is not letting the mechanical choke plate close. + +On your next cold start, remove the cover and test. Make sure the choke is closing completely." +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Thanks for the great info ira11y. I'm very interested to hear how your engines goes without the restrictor. + +I have recently upgraded to the same engine as you. My previous 50hp ran like a dream for over 250hrs after I removed the restrictor with noticeable extra power and speed. I ran it at WOT for long periods of time without any dramas as well. + +I dont really need the extra power with the new 80hp but I am very keen to hear how you go. I read about a certain dealer removing the intake air restrictors on their 80hp engines prior to them going out the showroom so I dont think there can be too many issues to worry about. + +Cheers and keep us posted with your results please.","Thanks for the great info ira11y. I'm very interested to hear how your engines goes without the restrictor. + +I have recently upgraded to the same engine as you. My previous 50hp ran like a dream for over 250hrs after I removed the restrictor with noticeable extra power and speed. I ran it at WOT for long periods of time without any dramas as well. + +I dont really need the extra power with the new 80hp but I am very keen to hear how you go. I read about a certain dealer removing the intake air restrictors on their 80hp engines prior to them going out the showroom so I dont think there can be too many issues to worry about. + +Cheers and keep us posted with your results please.",It's a pain cleaning them out but I'd suggest everyone check their tanks. +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Ok so I had the boat in the water a few weeks ago and it all ran fine, the most noticeable difference is in the rev range and I really diddnt push it too hard, however where the engine used to stop breathing at 5500rpm it will now easily rev to 5800rpm and beyond, I held it back at 5800rpm until I get a real feel for the changes and feel confident to push it beyond that. The engine should be able to rev to about 6500rpm now in theory at least. + +Without throwing the throttle control to WOT but using about 3/4 throttle from standing start there is a noticeable difference in acceleration. I diddnt have the GPS fine logging on this time out but I can tell from the speed/rpm ratio there is an overall improvement, on average I have gained around about a 1Kn speed improvement vs rpm accross the top of the rev range. For example previously at about 4500rpm I would get about 21Kn, now its closer to 23Kn as my cruising speed. This is consistent accross the whole rev range. The engine is obviously delivering slightly more power per stroke to achieve this through a better AFR. + +With regard to top end previously I would get to about 29-30Kn at 5500rpm, 31Kn on a good day into a head wind (air lifting the boat out of the water assists in drag reduction), now that I can rev higher in the range I got to 33Kn @ 5800rpm and theres still a little more in the legs from the engine after that but for what I do I am not likely to need those sort of speeds. + +Fuel economy has changed, where I used to get around 8L/Hr its now about 9.5L/Hr but it was pretty flat when we went out and so we were crusing a bit faster than we would normally out the front and you could probhably take off about 0.5L/hr to take this in to account based on my previous logs. + +Ive put photos up of the restrictor here.... + +http://s323.photobucket.com/albums/nn455/ira11y/","Ok so I had the boat in the water a few weeks ago and it all ran fine, the most noticeable difference is in the rev range and I really diddnt push it too hard, however where the engine used to stop breathing at 5500rpm it will now easily rev to 5800rpm and beyond, I held it back at 5800rpm until I get a real feel for the changes and feel confident to push it beyond that. The engine should be able to rev to about 6500rpm now in theory at least. + +Without throwing the throttle control to WOT but using about 3/4 throttle from standing start there is a noticeable difference in acceleration. I diddnt have the GPS fine logging on this time out but I can tell from the speed/rpm ratio there is an overall improvement, on average I have gained around about a 1Kn speed improvement vs rpm accross the top of the rev range. For example previously at about 4500rpm I would get about 21Kn, now its closer to 23Kn as my cruising speed. This is consistent accross the whole rev range. The engine is obviously delivering slightly more power per stroke to achieve this through a better AFR. + +With regard to top end previously I would get to about 29-30Kn at 5500rpm, 31Kn on a good day into a head wind (air lifting the boat out of the water assists in drag reduction), now that I can rev higher in the range I got to 33Kn @ 5800rpm and theres still a little more in the legs from the engine after that but for what I do I am not likely to need those sort of speeds. + +Fuel economy has changed, where I used to get around 8L/Hr its now about 9.5L/Hr but it was pretty flat when we went out and so we were crusing a bit faster than we would normally out the front and you could probhably take off about 0.5L/hr to take this in to account based on my previous logs. + +Ive put photos up of the restrictor here.... + +http://s323.photobucket.com/albums/nn455/ira11y/",Call your local u-haul see if they have an axle for your trailer? +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Hi, I am new here and been looking to up the output of my f50. I have found an outfit in CA, Simon motor sport, that can re-program the ecu but it cost as much as buying a new one. Was wondering if anyone has come any others that can do the work and are more reasonable.","Hi, I am new here and been looking to up the output of my f50. I have found an outfit in CA, Simon motor sport, that can re-program the ecu but it cost as much as buying a new one. Was wondering if anyone has come any others that can do the work and are more reasonable.","Ayuh,.... Rip it apart, 'n use Wood, like the original,...." +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Would this work on a 2013 f50 ? +Are there any differences or major changes to the motor this year ? +When did they introduce multipiont EFI ? +Any info would be great ! + +Thanks","Would this work on a 2013 f50 ? +Are there any differences or major changes to the motor this year ? +When did they introduce multipiont EFI ? +Any info would be great ! + +Thanks","Ayuh,.... Then test the Start circuit, startin' with the key switch, to the slave solenoid, to the starter solenoid,.... + +Something is closed, when it oughta be open,..." +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","audis said: + + + + No problem. I can help you and reprogram the ECU from YAMAHA F50 to F60, F80 to F100 is a small fee. We also have an option to disable the function of IMMO. + +Click to expand... + +. + +I am interested in your offer of increasing HP of Yamaha 4 cycle outboard. + +I own a 2002 50 HP Yamaha 4 cycle outboard that i purchased recently. The outboard had been in storage and is new, still in the crate. I am interested in getting 60 HP out of it. I am curious what parts increase the HP, and if the ECU is programmed differently. I would rather not go to the expense of changing carburetors, however. I am willing to pay a reasonable fee for information, and will prepay. My email address is [email protected], phone 206-354-0857. cheers, Dave Ladely","audis said: + + + + No problem. I can help you and reprogram the ECU from YAMAHA F50 to F60, F80 to F100 is a small fee. We also have an option to disable the function of IMMO. + +Click to expand... + +. + +I am interested in your offer of increasing HP of Yamaha 4 cycle outboard. + +I own a 2002 50 HP Yamaha 4 cycle outboard that i purchased recently. The outboard had been in storage and is new, still in the crate. I am interested in getting 60 HP out of it. I am curious what parts increase the HP, and if the ECU is programmed differently. I would rather not go to the expense of changing carburetors, however. I am willing to pay a reasonable fee for information, and will prepay. My email address is [email protected], phone 206-354-0857. cheers, Dave Ladely","The carb may be overfilling causing the engine to flood, or the engine needs a sync n link. +Does it die or Is it hard to start after it stalls after those 3 seconds? + +Unless you know how it's done, you will need a manual to do it correctly and/or troubleshoot the problem." +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Thanks ira11y Sounds like its working well. Ive seen the same results. My engine maxs out the rev limiter at 6200. One thing I have noticed is the fuel consumption and economy have changed as well. It's using more fuel which shows the fuel mapping/sensors are capable of noticing the extra air and compensating by adjusting the fuel flow according and not running lean. + +DaveLadely is 2002 model carby? No ECU? You can still remove the air intake restrictor to pick ups some extra HP.","Thanks ira11y Sounds like its working well. Ive seen the same results. My engine maxs out the rev limiter at 6200. One thing I have noticed is the fuel consumption and economy have changed as well. It's using more fuel which shows the fuel mapping/sensors are capable of noticing the extra air and compensating by adjusting the fuel flow according and not running lean. + +DaveLadely is 2002 model carby? No ECU? You can still remove the air intake restrictor to pick ups some extra HP.","The service centers diagnostic test would probably not turn up anything for what you've described. It would require a tech to get his hands on the engine and troubleshoot. If the service center you went to couldn't fix the problem I'd find another Yam service center who will put in the effort to find the issue. What you're describing isn't normal, and the engine should not continue to be run until it's fixed. If not, the problem will indeed become worse." +"Hi guys, Im new here and found this forum today. I have a question... + +I recently bought a new hull and have put my 2010 EFI F50hp on it. The new hull is rated to 60hp and I really want the extra 10hp. I have been researching this a lot lately but its hard to get definate answers on a couple of things. + +Now I understand you can do a simple mod by removing the air intake restrictor plate on the 50 to make it the same as the 60hp. I also understand that the ECU's in the two engines are similar but different (I dont know what is different). The part numbers are NEARLY the same 6C5-8591A-32-00 ($848.80) and 6C1-8591A-32-00 ($711.80). I understand the ECU in the 50hp has a rev limiter set to approx 6000RPM and the ECU in the 60hp has a rev limiter set to 6200RPM. This alone would suggest a difference in part numbers but is there more to them with the price being different as well?? + +I decided to remove the intake restrictor plate and here are the results... + +I started with my 11' prop which used to spin at 5300rpm (48kmh) with the restrictor plate in. It now spins at 5800rpm (53kmh) without the restrictor. I then upsized to a 11 5/8"" X 12"" SOLAS which used to get 5000rpm (50kmh) WOT (slow off the mark). It now gets 5400rpm (53hmh) without the restrictor but noticably quicker up and out of the hole. The motor is running beautifully as ever after 3 hrs without the restrictor plate. + +BUT...I am worried that I may eventually be doing some damage if the ECU hasnt adjusted and it thinks its still running a 50hp and may be running leaner? So my main question is...will I damage my engine or will the ECU compensate automatically (if it needs to?)? I cant afford to damage my engine but I will modify the ECU if I need to. + +Any help on this would be fantastic. I got a lot of my info online at http://www.refugeforums.com/refuge/showthread.php?t=771608 + +Cheers. Chris.","Chris79 said: + + + + Still running like a dream Gary. Around 10 hrs use now. + +I emailed a technical advice guy in the US about it (sells performance parts for outboards) and his response was.. + +""One thing is for sure, you will not damage either the ECU or any other part. Maximum you will detect flat spot when throttling or throttle response will spoil if the air is too much."" + +Thats as far as Ive gotten with info since last post, but someone has told me the ECU can be re-programmed with the 60HP data. Can't confirm this and dont really think it will make much difference. + +The restrictor is staying out of my engine. + +Click to expand... + + +couple of questions for you. did you shim when you took out the restricter plate and how is your idle quality. i have a 50 hp efi bigfoot and i put a 60 ecu in it with no change. just need some ideas to make it a 60.","Chris79 said: + + + + Still running like a dream Gary. Around 10 hrs use now. + +I emailed a technical advice guy in the US about it (sells performance parts for outboards) and his response was.. + +""One thing is for sure, you will not damage either the ECU or any other part. Maximum you will detect flat spot when throttling or throttle response will spoil if the air is too much."" + +Thats as far as Ive gotten with info since last post, but someone has told me the ECU can be re-programmed with the 60HP data. Can't confirm this and dont really think it will make much difference. + +The restrictor is staying out of my engine. + +Click to expand... + + +couple of questions for you. did you shim when you took out the restricter plate and how is your idle quality. i have a 50 hp efi bigfoot and i put a 60 ecu in it with no change. just need some ideas to make it a 60.","Ok so on further inspection I found bits of the old impeller in the thermostat so I cleaned them out and tried again. + +Now I have an overheat alarm without even trying to start the engine. + +I disconnected the thermo switch port side and the alarm stays on, disconnected the thermo switch starboard side and the alarm remains on. + +I traced the cables back and there are no breaks or burns and look ok however where both thermo switch wires join together there is a connector that has some sort of diode or resistor that was broken + +Just got back from the Yamaha dealer and they had no idea what it is and it does not feature on the workshop spare part diagram. + +I have attached two pics. + +Any ideas what this is and if it can be removed and the wires connected directly? + +Thanks + +Andy" +"I have twin 150 HPDI 1004 engines. Been having a problem with one engine not going over 3000 rpms . Went the route of changing filters ,plugs etc. no help +On my last trip I did get up to 3700RPM with Throttle full advanced. Ran it all day . Thinking it was just a throttle adjustment. +Today about to go fishing I find now that the throttle will only advance half way. +Felt like the cable was binding . +Disconnected the cable and found working OK. +Compared to the other engine you could see the linkage that the cable attached to moves a arm with a roller in it . It goes all the way up at full throttle. +This does not happen with it. Moving it by hand and it will only go half way as it was when connected to cable. +Feels like something is keeping it from going FT. Can't see much ,it's buried behind the starter etc. +Any Idea what would keep it from moving to FT position. +Help would be appreciated.","flabob1 said: + + + + I have twin 150 HPDI 1004 engines. Been having a problem with one engine not going over 3000 rpms . Went the route of changing filters ,plugs etc. no help +On my last trip I did get up to 3700RPM with Throttle full advanced. Ran it all day . Thinking it was just a throttle adjustment. +Today about to go fishing I find now that the throttle will only advance half way. +Felt like the cable was binding . +Disconnected the cable and found working OK. +Compared to the other engine you could see the linkage that the cable attached to moves a arm with a roller in it . It goes all the way up at full throttle. +This does not happen with it. Moving it by hand and it will only go half way as it was when connected to cable. +Feels like something is keeping it from going FT. Can't see much ,it's buried behind the starter etc. +Any Idea what would keep it from moving to FT position. +Help would be appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +Update on the above. +Checked the oil rod on the other side of the engine and it move freely and the shaft going into the block moves. Grabbing the lever that the throttle cables were connected going into the block it moves a little but does not turn. +Is it normal to be able to turn it by hand? + If yes than what would keep it from turning? +If so how could I free it ? + +Thanks ,Bob","flabob1 said: + + + + I have twin 150 HPDI 1004 engines. Been having a problem with one engine not going over 3000 rpms . Went the route of changing filters ,plugs etc. no help +On my last trip I did get up to 3700RPM with Throttle full advanced. Ran it all day . Thinking it was just a throttle adjustment. +Today about to go fishing I find now that the throttle will only advance half way. +Felt like the cable was binding . +Disconnected the cable and found working OK. +Compared to the other engine you could see the linkage that the cable attached to moves a arm with a roller in it . It goes all the way up at full throttle. +This does not happen with it. Moving it by hand and it will only go half way as it was when connected to cable. +Feels like something is keeping it from going FT. Can't see much ,it's buried behind the starter etc. +Any Idea what would keep it from moving to FT position. +Help would be appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +Update on the above. +Checked the oil rod on the other side of the engine and it move freely and the shaft going into the block moves. Grabbing the lever that the throttle cables were connected going into the block it moves a little but does not turn. +Is it normal to be able to turn it by hand? + If yes than what would keep it from turning? +If so how could I free it ? + +Thanks ,Bob","boscoe said: + + + + Keep refilling the main oil tank until you can get home and get a replacement tank. + +Run the motor until the alarm sounds. Stop and refill the tank. Repeat as necessary. + +If it were me I would have someone hold the hose onto the broken fitting with the fitting being held to the tank. While the toggle switch is pressed to turn the oil pump on. Might be messy but less chance of any oil contamination. + +Cruise home at your best economy setting to minimize the use of oil. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you ! Sounds just like what I intended to do. One screw of the tank is hidden and needs a long 10mm key that I do not have handy, so I cannot reach the end of the cut off hose. But refilling seems no big problem assuming calm waters. Just refilled, cruised 6 test miles @ 3000 rpm and measured 100 ml used, i. e. 1/8 of the main tank capacity ... such that refilling before crossing over to Sardinia would get me to a safe place. Hope I can trust the cutoff and not check the oil level ! Should I add 1% of oil to the gas tank for good measure ??" +"I have twin 150 HPDI 1004 engines. Been having a problem with one engine not going over 3000 rpms . Went the route of changing filters ,plugs etc. no help +On my last trip I did get up to 3700RPM with Throttle full advanced. Ran it all day . Thinking it was just a throttle adjustment. +Today about to go fishing I find now that the throttle will only advance half way. +Felt like the cable was binding . +Disconnected the cable and found working OK. +Compared to the other engine you could see the linkage that the cable attached to moves a arm with a roller in it . It goes all the way up at full throttle. +This does not happen with it. Moving it by hand and it will only go half way as it was when connected to cable. +Feels like something is keeping it from going FT. Can't see much ,it's buried behind the starter etc. +Any Idea what would keep it from moving to FT position. +Help would be appreciated.","I was determined to find the problem. After looking at the parts list it looked like it was just a bolt that held the bracket into the side if the engine. Hours later after removed many parts and wire harness I got at it. I removed the bolt from the bracket. I found the bolt going through a Collar and a Wave washer .The collar was completely rusted and kept the bracket from turning on the bolt shaft. Also the washer was rusted. $12.00 for a Collar,bolt,washer .Waiting for parts I'm sure it will fix my problem. Corrosion ,it sucks.","I was determined to find the problem. After looking at the parts list it looked like it was just a bolt that held the bracket into the side if the engine. Hours later after removed many parts and wire harness I got at it. I removed the bolt from the bracket. I found the bolt going through a Collar and a Wave washer .The collar was completely rusted and kept the bracket from turning on the bolt shaft. Also the washer was rusted. $12.00 for a Collar,bolt,washer .Waiting for parts I'm sure it will fix my problem. Corrosion ,it sucks.","High Pressure pump is 44 psi then drops down to 33 psi and holds good until it falls on its self.Fuel tank is venting, rechecked vent line and have blown out the vent line.The primer bulb is not getting sucked flat, its not rock hard nor is it super soft. going to pull the VST again." +"New to the forum but I am having a very frustrating issue that I cannot resolve on my 2003 Yamaha 50 hp TLRB 2 stroke outboard. The engine is on my 17 ft. Carolina Skiff flatbottom boat. We bought the engine backll in 2009 and ran it hard for commercial fishing purposes and it was tremendously reliable, never had one issue. The boat began having issues after one winter of sitting. The problem from the start has been the same, the engine starts up and idles awesome in the yard in neutral, revs up just fine, and seems like it is good to go. Once on the water under load, the engine still starts up and idles fine but immediately when throttled up begins to bog down and almost die unless you bring the throttle back down. + +To me this seemed blatantly like a carburetor issue / fuel issue and the engine was not getting the fuel it needed. I've now become an expert on dismantling the carbs and cleaning everything. This spring I'm determined to get the engine back up and running well but it is proving difficult, this is what I've done so far: + +1. Replaced all three spark plugs +2. Replaced inline fuel filter inside engine cowling +3. Replaced all fuel lines from tank to engine +4. Installed and replaced new water separator +5. Replaced engine fuel pump +6. Replaced cold start priming mechanism on second carb and rebuilt priming system +7. Bought carb rebuild it, fully disassembled carbs, chem dipped all metal parts over night +8. Rebuilt carbs with new kit +9. Scrubbed and cleaned all jets and parts related to carbs +10. put carbs back together and reinstalled + +I blew out both jets and the carbs really looked fully cleaned when I put everything back together and I was feeling certain that the boat would finally run good. I dropped it in today with the priming system set to ""oN"" and the engine started first turn and sounded good. Went to throttle up, same issue, immense bog into almost die, into throttle down. I also, noticed that when the throttle is in gear, if I put my hand in front of any of the carbs to restrict the air flow , the engine perks up and sounds much better and runs stronger. As soon as I take my hand away, same problem. So, to me it seems that the mix is lean, but I have NO idea how that would be since the carbs aare fully rebuilt. Does anyone have any ideas? Maybe the reed valves? Head gasket? Electrical issue? Powercore? Do the carbs need to be retuned??? Anything would be much appreciated, cheers!","So i took it out the other day on the lake and ran it through a bunch of tests. Up to 1/2 throttle (10-12kts) on my Carolina skiff the engine sounds and pushes great. Once you start to get close to 3/4 throttle it starts to skip almostand run poorly. It won’t die at all just skips and doesn’t gain speed. If you pump the ball it doesn’t help at all. If you restrict airflow to the carbs it will die so the mix seems alright. One thing I did start to mess with is the mix screw on the top of all three carbs. These definitely effected the overall performance. It seemed every time I tried different settings it would run differently. I got it up to 16 kts and running a bit better by screwing the screw outwArd. Any ideas at all? I’m thinking maybe it’s a timing issue. Is the CDI marking “II” supposed to be lined up for full throttle ?? If so, it is not currently it hits the stopper at about 1/2 throttle. Maybe it’s a timing issue. Anyways attached is a video of the skipping. Any help would be great , going to pop the carbs off and go through again tomorrow. Maybe the reeds ?? + +https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gn...2Ehu5k1Ebk0_4_","So i took it out the other day on the lake and ran it through a bunch of tests. Up to 1/2 throttle (10-12kts) on my Carolina skiff the engine sounds and pushes great. Once you start to get close to 3/4 throttle it starts to skip almostand run poorly. It won’t die at all just skips and doesn’t gain speed. If you pump the ball it doesn’t help at all. If you restrict airflow to the carbs it will die so the mix seems alright. One thing I did start to mess with is the mix screw on the top of all three carbs. These definitely effected the overall performance. It seemed every time I tried different settings it would run differently. I got it up to 16 kts and running a bit better by screwing the screw outwArd. Any ideas at all? I’m thinking maybe it’s a timing issue. Is the CDI marking “II” supposed to be lined up for full throttle ?? If so, it is not currently it hits the stopper at about 1/2 throttle. Maybe it’s a timing issue. Anyways attached is a video of the skipping. Any help would be great , going to pop the carbs off and go through again tomorrow. Maybe the reeds ?? + +https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gn...2Ehu5k1Ebk0_4_",Look at the picture I posted. It shows you the burned part of the screen right in the middle..thks +"New to the forum but I am having a very frustrating issue that I cannot resolve on my 2003 Yamaha 50 hp TLRB 2 stroke outboard. The engine is on my 17 ft. Carolina Skiff flatbottom boat. We bought the engine backll in 2009 and ran it hard for commercial fishing purposes and it was tremendously reliable, never had one issue. The boat began having issues after one winter of sitting. The problem from the start has been the same, the engine starts up and idles awesome in the yard in neutral, revs up just fine, and seems like it is good to go. Once on the water under load, the engine still starts up and idles fine but immediately when throttled up begins to bog down and almost die unless you bring the throttle back down. + +To me this seemed blatantly like a carburetor issue / fuel issue and the engine was not getting the fuel it needed. I've now become an expert on dismantling the carbs and cleaning everything. This spring I'm determined to get the engine back up and running well but it is proving difficult, this is what I've done so far: + +1. Replaced all three spark plugs +2. Replaced inline fuel filter inside engine cowling +3. Replaced all fuel lines from tank to engine +4. Installed and replaced new water separator +5. Replaced engine fuel pump +6. Replaced cold start priming mechanism on second carb and rebuilt priming system +7. Bought carb rebuild it, fully disassembled carbs, chem dipped all metal parts over night +8. Rebuilt carbs with new kit +9. Scrubbed and cleaned all jets and parts related to carbs +10. put carbs back together and reinstalled + +I blew out both jets and the carbs really looked fully cleaned when I put everything back together and I was feeling certain that the boat would finally run good. I dropped it in today with the priming system set to ""oN"" and the engine started first turn and sounded good. Went to throttle up, same issue, immense bog into almost die, into throttle down. I also, noticed that when the throttle is in gear, if I put my hand in front of any of the carbs to restrict the air flow , the engine perks up and sounds much better and runs stronger. As soon as I take my hand away, same problem. So, to me it seems that the mix is lean, but I have NO idea how that would be since the carbs aare fully rebuilt. Does anyone have any ideas? Maybe the reed valves? Head gasket? Electrical issue? Powercore? Do the carbs need to be retuned??? Anything would be much appreciated, cheers!","You said that when you put your hand over the carb to restrict the air flow the RPMS picked up . I would say it is a fuel problem and you are sucking to much air from some where .Which will make it run lean. On some old Carb engines would increase in RPMS when you shut it down because it's a little rich . +You had the carbs off so I assume the gaskets are not leaking. Keep following your air to the engine. Check the intake manifold ,gasket and look for cracks even on the engine head . It's hard to find ,easier on a fluid leak. While the engine is running squirt heavy oil on areas and see if the rpms pick up a little. If not to hot try your finger if possible. Good luck","You said that when you put your hand over the carb to restrict the air flow the RPMS picked up . I would say it is a fuel problem and you are sucking to much air from some where .Which will make it run lean. On some old Carb engines would increase in RPMS when you shut it down because it's a little rich . +You had the carbs off so I assume the gaskets are not leaking. Keep following your air to the engine. Check the intake manifold ,gasket and look for cracks even on the engine head . It's hard to find ,easier on a fluid leak. While the engine is running squirt heavy oil on areas and see if the rpms pick up a little. If not to hot try your finger if possible. Good luck",A compression test is the most important trouble shooting step to do.----Report your numbers.----------Very little goes wrong with carburetors that warrants installing new ones !! +"I have 20 hp yamaha 2 stroke autolube with twin carbs. +i have seen the sam motor but 25 hp .any imputs how tu increase power?","Using the Yamaha parts catalogs, compare the component differences between your 20 HP model and the most similar (by type and year) 25 HP model. Remove any parts that are peculiar to your model (not used on the 25 HP). Buy and install any parts that are peculiar to the 25 HP model (not used on your 20 HP model. You will now have the equivalent power output of the 25 HP motor.","Using the Yamaha parts catalogs, compare the component differences between your 20 HP model and the most similar (by type and year) 25 HP model. Remove any parts that are peculiar to your model (not used on the 25 HP). Buy and install any parts that are peculiar to the 25 HP model (not used on your 20 HP model. You will now have the equivalent power output of the 25 HP motor.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Thanks for the update, A lot of threads never get back to the forum with results,good to hear your running + +Click to expand... + + +Feedback is very important. You never know where you are until someone tells you." +"C40TRLX Yamaha +125/124/125 comp +Carbs rebuilt, new trigger coil, charge coil, rectifier, CDI, fuel pump and filters, lines, clamps +Spark jump @ 10mm +Sparkplugs look as they should, no tell tales. Gapped at .10mm per spec +Timing at 7deg AFTC Idle, 27deg BTDC WOT. Tested for cylinder drop by running thru the range while shooting timing light looking for drop. all good +running ethanol free only high test + +Motor will start and run thru 3500 rpm but tops out [email protected] 3800 rpm, spec is 4500-5000. Sluggish hole shot but not bogged down just not what it should be. +Rebuilt ignition system after stock CDI gave out, prior to that motor ran well hitting 4600 RPM, no changes to prop or damage to prop (Used test prop in same size and results the same) I should note I have a known good CDI from a test motor and results are the same +When running at 3500-3800 rpm it sounds and feels somewhat rough but not that bad, had I not known the engine I might think thats normal. Tested tach by running shop tach with same results. +I do not believe this is a fuel issue... during rebuild I ran a fiber camera to all ports we could get into and verified clean ports and I set floats to spec, set idle screws at 1.25 turns and tuned with inductive tach. Engine is also emitting a wet soot from exhaust. +My Question: All DVA readings check out as per CDI, however, when testing CDI unit (Black wires with W/Y/O stripes) I put the positive lead in my test harness and negative to the coil ground as per Yamaha Factory Manual, when I go to touch the ground a light but faintly audible spark jumps from the lead to the ground screw. Im assuming this is indicative of a loose ground, live wire making contact somewhere on the harness the coils and starter attach to or a bad coil. That said all coils in continuity as per CDI. Before I tear this apart (Again) looking for the culprit, is it normal to have a small electrical discharge when testing DVA on CDI? Only on CDI, does not happen when testing other ignition comps. (I did fire up at night looking for dancing spark, clean. also ran a screwdriver close to block and coils hoping to see a spark jump but did not.) +One other thing I noticed, when at idle I put a timing light on each cylinder, when testing #3 (Yamaha marked TDC for each cyl on the flywheel) I notice a very quick and intermittent fire to the #2 cyl, it is very fast, almost unnoticeable, if It wasnt dark and I had my readers on I may have missed it) Thanks!",Just tested some grounds while the starter ground wire to the rest of the block and grounds for the coils tested for continuity I am perplexed by one thing. I tested the battery with a multimeter + to - and got 12.68v. When I tested positive post of the battery to the ground wire that is attached to the starter it read 5.97v. Shouldn't this read the same or very near the same as the battery test?,Just tested some grounds while the starter ground wire to the rest of the block and grounds for the coils tested for continuity I am perplexed by one thing. I tested the battery with a multimeter + to - and got 12.68v. When I tested positive post of the battery to the ground wire that is attached to the starter it read 5.97v. Shouldn't this read the same or very near the same as the battery test?,Carbureted or fuel injected? +"C40TRLX Yamaha +125/124/125 comp +Carbs rebuilt, new trigger coil, charge coil, rectifier, CDI, fuel pump and filters, lines, clamps +Spark jump @ 10mm +Sparkplugs look as they should, no tell tales. Gapped at .10mm per spec +Timing at 7deg AFTC Idle, 27deg BTDC WOT. Tested for cylinder drop by running thru the range while shooting timing light looking for drop. all good +running ethanol free only high test + +Motor will start and run thru 3500 rpm but tops out [email protected] 3800 rpm, spec is 4500-5000. Sluggish hole shot but not bogged down just not what it should be. +Rebuilt ignition system after stock CDI gave out, prior to that motor ran well hitting 4600 RPM, no changes to prop or damage to prop (Used test prop in same size and results the same) I should note I have a known good CDI from a test motor and results are the same +When running at 3500-3800 rpm it sounds and feels somewhat rough but not that bad, had I not known the engine I might think thats normal. Tested tach by running shop tach with same results. +I do not believe this is a fuel issue... during rebuild I ran a fiber camera to all ports we could get into and verified clean ports and I set floats to spec, set idle screws at 1.25 turns and tuned with inductive tach. Engine is also emitting a wet soot from exhaust. +My Question: All DVA readings check out as per CDI, however, when testing CDI unit (Black wires with W/Y/O stripes) I put the positive lead in my test harness and negative to the coil ground as per Yamaha Factory Manual, when I go to touch the ground a light but faintly audible spark jumps from the lead to the ground screw. Im assuming this is indicative of a loose ground, live wire making contact somewhere on the harness the coils and starter attach to or a bad coil. That said all coils in continuity as per CDI. Before I tear this apart (Again) looking for the culprit, is it normal to have a small electrical discharge when testing DVA on CDI? Only on CDI, does not happen when testing other ignition comps. (I did fire up at night looking for dancing spark, clean. also ran a screwdriver close to block and coils hoping to see a spark jump but did not.) +One other thing I noticed, when at idle I put a timing light on each cylinder, when testing #3 (Yamaha marked TDC for each cyl on the flywheel) I notice a very quick and intermittent fire to the #2 cyl, it is very fast, almost unnoticeable, if It wasnt dark and I had my readers on I may have missed it) Thanks!","Was the starer under load when testing? If so you've discovered a major volt drop. If not tehn i reckon the neg post of starter is bad or going bad bc if it were truly grounded you'd read 12.68 or lil less. + +Were you getting 4600 with both test prop and standard prop, or just test prop?","Was the starer under load when testing? If so you've discovered a major volt drop. If not tehn i reckon the neg post of starter is bad or going bad bc if it were truly grounded you'd read 12.68 or lil less. + +Were you getting 4600 with both test prop and standard prop, or just test prop?","Fuel injected, yes? How long since you last ran the motor before this started happening? Did it come on all of a sudden or did you notice any other less than perfect performance issue, even minor, leading up to this? How did you clean the injection system? Does it do the same thing in whether in or out of gear? When you say it runs fine at high RPM's, for how long? Can you keep it at high RPM for 5 or 10 mins with no problem, while underway?" +"C40TRLX Yamaha +125/124/125 comp +Carbs rebuilt, new trigger coil, charge coil, rectifier, CDI, fuel pump and filters, lines, clamps +Spark jump @ 10mm +Sparkplugs look as they should, no tell tales. Gapped at .10mm per spec +Timing at 7deg AFTC Idle, 27deg BTDC WOT. Tested for cylinder drop by running thru the range while shooting timing light looking for drop. all good +running ethanol free only high test + +Motor will start and run thru 3500 rpm but tops out [email protected] 3800 rpm, spec is 4500-5000. Sluggish hole shot but not bogged down just not what it should be. +Rebuilt ignition system after stock CDI gave out, prior to that motor ran well hitting 4600 RPM, no changes to prop or damage to prop (Used test prop in same size and results the same) I should note I have a known good CDI from a test motor and results are the same +When running at 3500-3800 rpm it sounds and feels somewhat rough but not that bad, had I not known the engine I might think thats normal. Tested tach by running shop tach with same results. +I do not believe this is a fuel issue... during rebuild I ran a fiber camera to all ports we could get into and verified clean ports and I set floats to spec, set idle screws at 1.25 turns and tuned with inductive tach. Engine is also emitting a wet soot from exhaust. +My Question: All DVA readings check out as per CDI, however, when testing CDI unit (Black wires with W/Y/O stripes) I put the positive lead in my test harness and negative to the coil ground as per Yamaha Factory Manual, when I go to touch the ground a light but faintly audible spark jumps from the lead to the ground screw. Im assuming this is indicative of a loose ground, live wire making contact somewhere on the harness the coils and starter attach to or a bad coil. That said all coils in continuity as per CDI. Before I tear this apart (Again) looking for the culprit, is it normal to have a small electrical discharge when testing DVA on CDI? Only on CDI, does not happen when testing other ignition comps. (I did fire up at night looking for dancing spark, clean. also ran a screwdriver close to block and coils hoping to see a spark jump but did not.) +One other thing I noticed, when at idle I put a timing light on each cylinder, when testing #3 (Yamaha marked TDC for each cyl on the flywheel) I notice a very quick and intermittent fire to the #2 cyl, it is very fast, almost unnoticeable, if It wasnt dark and I had my readers on I may have missed it) Thanks!","First the starter issue. Dumb dumb mistake! I was reading off the acc battery which is not attached to the motor... its hot in Louisiana and I think its affecting my judgement! Lol. When using the correct battery everything is good as far as the starter/block readings go. That said, yes both props tested prior to the engine’s current issue at WOT of 4600 RPM. Prior to this issue nothing in the lower unit or mechanicals have changed. Just the ignition and fuel system changes and verifications as list in op","First the starter issue. Dumb dumb mistake! I was reading off the acc battery which is not attached to the motor... its hot in Louisiana and I think its affecting my judgement! Lol. When using the correct battery everything is good as far as the starter/block readings go. That said, yes both props tested prior to the engine’s current issue at WOT of 4600 RPM. Prior to this issue nothing in the lower unit or mechanicals have changed. Just the ignition and fuel system changes and verifications as list in op","deepsea21 said: + + + + Flywatt... Another thing that can be problematic with the F115 (learned this the hard way as well like everything) is the location of the VST tank is deep in the engine. I'm not saying this caused your problem based on what you described but it somethin to keep in mind when running it in the future... Running long or running fast generates ALOT of heat in the engine under the cowling. If you come to a stop and then shut it down they can be very tough to start again (especially if you are runnign ethanol-blended fuel with ethanol having a lower vapor point than gasoline. You can get a vapor lock with fuel/ethanol vapors in the VST tank filling the intake and creating a super-rich vapor situation that makes the engine almost impossible to re-start normally. If this happens you can advance the throttle (not in gear) to 1/2 -3/4 open and try starting... that will usually work and clear the vapor lock but be ready to yank back on the throttle to idle as soon as it fires. To avoid the problem altogether, always allow the engine to idle for 4-5 minutes and cool down after an extended or high speed run before shutting it off. If you don't, as soon as you shut it off hot the water drains from the block and the wter that was absorbing the heat is gone and it really starts to build heat under the cowling vaporizing fuel in the VST tank. Don't learn the hard way... The Yamaha manual says to allow it to idle and cool down for several minutes before shutting off. I didn't pay any attention to those instructions until I learned the hard way. + +Click to expand... + + +I really appreciate the advice. I will make sure she idles from now on. Just bought the boat a few weeks ago. This is my first four stroke. I'm learning a lot!" +"C40TRLX Yamaha +125/124/125 comp +Carbs rebuilt, new trigger coil, charge coil, rectifier, CDI, fuel pump and filters, lines, clamps +Spark jump @ 10mm +Sparkplugs look as they should, no tell tales. Gapped at .10mm per spec +Timing at 7deg AFTC Idle, 27deg BTDC WOT. Tested for cylinder drop by running thru the range while shooting timing light looking for drop. all good +running ethanol free only high test + +Motor will start and run thru 3500 rpm but tops out [email protected] 3800 rpm, spec is 4500-5000. Sluggish hole shot but not bogged down just not what it should be. +Rebuilt ignition system after stock CDI gave out, prior to that motor ran well hitting 4600 RPM, no changes to prop or damage to prop (Used test prop in same size and results the same) I should note I have a known good CDI from a test motor and results are the same +When running at 3500-3800 rpm it sounds and feels somewhat rough but not that bad, had I not known the engine I might think thats normal. Tested tach by running shop tach with same results. +I do not believe this is a fuel issue... during rebuild I ran a fiber camera to all ports we could get into and verified clean ports and I set floats to spec, set idle screws at 1.25 turns and tuned with inductive tach. Engine is also emitting a wet soot from exhaust. +My Question: All DVA readings check out as per CDI, however, when testing CDI unit (Black wires with W/Y/O stripes) I put the positive lead in my test harness and negative to the coil ground as per Yamaha Factory Manual, when I go to touch the ground a light but faintly audible spark jumps from the lead to the ground screw. Im assuming this is indicative of a loose ground, live wire making contact somewhere on the harness the coils and starter attach to or a bad coil. That said all coils in continuity as per CDI. Before I tear this apart (Again) looking for the culprit, is it normal to have a small electrical discharge when testing DVA on CDI? Only on CDI, does not happen when testing other ignition comps. (I did fire up at night looking for dancing spark, clean. also ran a screwdriver close to block and coils hoping to see a spark jump but did not.) +One other thing I noticed, when at idle I put a timing light on each cylinder, when testing #3 (Yamaha marked TDC for each cyl on the flywheel) I notice a very quick and intermittent fire to the #2 cyl, it is very fast, almost unnoticeable, if It wasnt dark and I had my readers on I may have missed it) Thanks!","I've always proceeded with troubleshooting by the advice given to me by a yam master mechanic...when encountering an engine issue, 90% of the time it's fuel system related. This method has always worked for me. I'd start from fuel tank amd work way back to carbs, checking for restrictions pre-fuel pump and adequate pressure post-pump. Be sure jets are clear, as well as time amd sync after reinstalling. Check that throttle arm, linkage, lever, etc, are dialed in to spec. Refer to service manual.","I've always proceeded with troubleshooting by the advice given to me by a yam master mechanic...when encountering an engine issue, 90% of the time it's fuel system related. This method has always worked for me. I'd start from fuel tank amd work way back to carbs, checking for restrictions pre-fuel pump and adequate pressure post-pump. Be sure jets are clear, as well as time amd sync after reinstalling. Check that throttle arm, linkage, lever, etc, are dialed in to spec. Refer to service manual.","replaced a small rubber collet that goes under a white plastic guide that the feed tube to the motor slides in. All is well +Thanks again rejesterd +Hard to believe that's all it was" +"C40TRLX Yamaha +125/124/125 comp +Carbs rebuilt, new trigger coil, charge coil, rectifier, CDI, fuel pump and filters, lines, clamps +Spark jump @ 10mm +Sparkplugs look as they should, no tell tales. Gapped at .10mm per spec +Timing at 7deg AFTC Idle, 27deg BTDC WOT. Tested for cylinder drop by running thru the range while shooting timing light looking for drop. all good +running ethanol free only high test + +Motor will start and run thru 3500 rpm but tops out [email protected] 3800 rpm, spec is 4500-5000. Sluggish hole shot but not bogged down just not what it should be. +Rebuilt ignition system after stock CDI gave out, prior to that motor ran well hitting 4600 RPM, no changes to prop or damage to prop (Used test prop in same size and results the same) I should note I have a known good CDI from a test motor and results are the same +When running at 3500-3800 rpm it sounds and feels somewhat rough but not that bad, had I not known the engine I might think thats normal. Tested tach by running shop tach with same results. +I do not believe this is a fuel issue... during rebuild I ran a fiber camera to all ports we could get into and verified clean ports and I set floats to spec, set idle screws at 1.25 turns and tuned with inductive tach. Engine is also emitting a wet soot from exhaust. +My Question: All DVA readings check out as per CDI, however, when testing CDI unit (Black wires with W/Y/O stripes) I put the positive lead in my test harness and negative to the coil ground as per Yamaha Factory Manual, when I go to touch the ground a light but faintly audible spark jumps from the lead to the ground screw. Im assuming this is indicative of a loose ground, live wire making contact somewhere on the harness the coils and starter attach to or a bad coil. That said all coils in continuity as per CDI. Before I tear this apart (Again) looking for the culprit, is it normal to have a small electrical discharge when testing DVA on CDI? Only on CDI, does not happen when testing other ignition comps. (I did fire up at night looking for dancing spark, clean. also ran a screwdriver close to block and coils hoping to see a spark jump but did not.) +One other thing I noticed, when at idle I put a timing light on each cylinder, when testing #3 (Yamaha marked TDC for each cyl on the flywheel) I notice a very quick and intermittent fire to the #2 cyl, it is very fast, almost unnoticeable, if It wasnt dark and I had my readers on I may have missed it) Thanks!","Im in the same camp that fuel is often the issue. I did recheck all the fuel systems short of pulling the carbs again and checking them and the reed valves. That said, I ran last night in the dark and after about 5 minutes of running the #2 ignition coil is making a very small spark right in the crux where the plug wire meets the coil. It is a very faint spark but its there. I tried resettigg the wire and it didnt help. Hopefully this is the issue and I can get on with my life. Will report when new coil is installed","Im in the same camp that fuel is often the issue. I did recheck all the fuel systems short of pulling the carbs again and checking them and the reed valves. That said, I ran last night in the dark and after about 5 minutes of running the #2 ignition coil is making a very small spark right in the crux where the plug wire meets the coil. It is a very faint spark but its there. I tried resettigg the wire and it didnt help. Hopefully this is the issue and I can get on with my life. Will report when new coil is installed",Clean bottom carburetor.--------Inspect fuel pump diaphragm.------------Inspect reeds on # 3 while carburetor is off. +"Hey guys. Iv run into a bit of a conundrum. I finally finished putting the console in my boat and took it out for a spin. Ran into an issue, it was running out of fuel at WOT so id stop prime it and back at it. When I got home i put the new tank and bulb in it alomg with a nee fuel pump for giggles. Now im having the exact opposite problem. I took it out last night and could run at WOT no problem but it would big for a couple minutes until on the plane. I took the silencer off and the lower chamber in was full of fuel. I ordered the correct pump but naturally its different so I'm wondering if the difference could be over pumping the lowest carb and the closest to the main feed lime for all the carbs. The inlet snd outlet of the pump are the nect size up so I'm really thinking thats the problem. What do you guys think?? Thanks!","keeth said: + + + + Hey guys. Iv run into a bit of a conundrum. I finally finished putting the console in my boat and took it out for a spin. Ran into an issue, it was running out of fuel at WOT so id stop prime it and back at it. When I got home i put the new tank and bulb in it alomg with a nee fuel pump for giggles. Now im having the exact opposite problem. I took it out last night and could run at WOT no problem but it would big for a couple minutes until on the plane. I took the silencer off and the lower chamber in was full of fuel. I ordered the correct pump but naturally its different so I'm wondering if the difference could be over pumping the lowest carb and the closest to the main feed lime for all the carbs. The inlet snd outlet of the pump are the nect size up so I'm really thinking thats the problem. What do you guys think?? Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +Referring to above in bold...can you explain what your talking about. Big? Lower chamber? And how is the new fuel pump ""naturally different""...and I'm not asking about how similar the new pump looks to the old pump. The inlet/outlet should be should be the same size as old pump.","keeth said: + + + + Hey guys. Iv run into a bit of a conundrum. I finally finished putting the console in my boat and took it out for a spin. Ran into an issue, it was running out of fuel at WOT so id stop prime it and back at it. When I got home i put the new tank and bulb in it alomg with a nee fuel pump for giggles. Now im having the exact opposite problem. I took it out last night and could run at WOT no problem but it would big for a couple minutes until on the plane. I took the silencer off and the lower chamber in was full of fuel. I ordered the correct pump but naturally its different so I'm wondering if the difference could be over pumping the lowest carb and the closest to the main feed lime for all the carbs. The inlet snd outlet of the pump are the nect size up so I'm really thinking thats the problem. What do you guys think?? Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +Referring to above in bold...can you explain what your talking about. Big? Lower chamber? And how is the new fuel pump ""naturally different""...and I'm not asking about how similar the new pump looks to the old pump. The inlet/outlet should be should be the same size as old pump.",That primer unit is an electric valve that opens to put fuel into the carburetor throat via those wee hoses.----Check those hoses for leaks.----Possibly the hose from the fuel pump that supplies that primer is leaking.---Or the primer itself has a leaking o-ring on it.----Should be an easy fix.-----Engine should be cranking when you push in the key !! +"Hey guys. Iv run into a bit of a conundrum. I finally finished putting the console in my boat and took it out for a spin. Ran into an issue, it was running out of fuel at WOT so id stop prime it and back at it. When I got home i put the new tank and bulb in it alomg with a nee fuel pump for giggles. Now im having the exact opposite problem. I took it out last night and could run at WOT no problem but it would big for a couple minutes until on the plane. I took the silencer off and the lower chamber in was full of fuel. I ordered the correct pump but naturally its different so I'm wondering if the difference could be over pumping the lowest carb and the closest to the main feed lime for all the carbs. The inlet snd outlet of the pump are the nect size up so I'm really thinking thats the problem. What do you guys think?? Thanks!","Sorry, big was suppost to be bog. The ""naturally its different"" was sarcasm because I tend to get the wrong parts at the worst possible times. The inlet outlet are bigger than the old pump, they are also in different spots on the pump. Also the main block in the center of the two metal plates, it holds the check valves in it is a good bit thicker. As to the chambers, the silencer has 3 chambers, one for each carb. The lowest chamber, carb number 3, was full of fuel.","Sorry, big was suppost to be bog. The ""naturally its different"" was sarcasm because I tend to get the wrong parts at the worst possible times. The inlet outlet are bigger than the old pump, they are also in different spots on the pump. Also the main block in the center of the two metal plates, it holds the check valves in it is a good bit thicker. As to the chambers, the silencer has 3 chambers, one for each carb. The lowest chamber, carb number 3, was full of fuel.","They don't sell the brass piece separately. The part on the engine side is called the fuel pipe joint. It's an assembly that includes that brass fitting: + +https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-6G1-24304-02-00-FUEL-JOINT-6G1243040200/dp/B004K9JTDG + +And if it's a TLRY, you have a 2000 btw (not a 1999)." +"Hey guys. Iv run into a bit of a conundrum. I finally finished putting the console in my boat and took it out for a spin. Ran into an issue, it was running out of fuel at WOT so id stop prime it and back at it. When I got home i put the new tank and bulb in it alomg with a nee fuel pump for giggles. Now im having the exact opposite problem. I took it out last night and could run at WOT no problem but it would big for a couple minutes until on the plane. I took the silencer off and the lower chamber in was full of fuel. I ordered the correct pump but naturally its different so I'm wondering if the difference could be over pumping the lowest carb and the closest to the main feed lime for all the carbs. The inlet snd outlet of the pump are the nect size up so I'm really thinking thats the problem. What do you guys think?? Thanks!","Well those who have been looking at this, it wasnt the fuel pump. Got the right one in today and ran it. Still bogs and still fuel in the silencer box. Still have the miss fire at idle. I did find something weird maybe someone has ran into. It doesn't miss with the #3 spark plug wire off. It actually ran smoother. Obviously #3 cylinder has some sort of problem. As a side note I was wide open today cruising about 22 mph and hit a sand bar(just the motor) props of have a florida flats boat. Floats in 6"" of water. But what puzzled me is it ran great after that. Great power and no fuel smell. So I'm wondering if I have a stuck needle valve causing over fueling and and the jolt nocked it loose for a bit. I rebuilt the carbs at the beggining of the summer with mew seats and valves and it didnt do it before. Food for thought ill keep ya posted. Thanks.","Well those who have been looking at this, it wasnt the fuel pump. Got the right one in today and ran it. Still bogs and still fuel in the silencer box. Still have the miss fire at idle. I did find something weird maybe someone has ran into. It doesn't miss with the #3 spark plug wire off. It actually ran smoother. Obviously #3 cylinder has some sort of problem. As a side note I was wide open today cruising about 22 mph and hit a sand bar(just the motor) props of have a florida flats boat. Floats in 6"" of water. But what puzzled me is it ran great after that. Great power and no fuel smell. So I'm wondering if I have a stuck needle valve causing over fueling and and the jolt nocked it loose for a bit. I rebuilt the carbs at the beggining of the summer with mew seats and valves and it didnt do it before. Food for thought ill keep ya posted. Thanks.","Should be on the exhaust cover. Remove plug screw and install the nipple! + +Once stripped or crossed threads, retab and get a correct threaded nipple!" +"Hey guys. Iv run into a bit of a conundrum. I finally finished putting the console in my boat and took it out for a spin. Ran into an issue, it was running out of fuel at WOT so id stop prime it and back at it. When I got home i put the new tank and bulb in it alomg with a nee fuel pump for giggles. Now im having the exact opposite problem. I took it out last night and could run at WOT no problem but it would big for a couple minutes until on the plane. I took the silencer off and the lower chamber in was full of fuel. I ordered the correct pump but naturally its different so I'm wondering if the difference could be over pumping the lowest carb and the closest to the main feed lime for all the carbs. The inlet snd outlet of the pump are the nect size up so I'm really thinking thats the problem. What do you guys think?? Thanks!","At this point im probably talking to a wall, however iv made progress. Pulled the carbs, cleaned again. This time with much more aggression. Like 150 psi air nozzle. Blew some sort of gunk from deep in the idle circuit. Wouldnt you know the miss at idle went away. I began to look down the throats of the carbs and noticed that #3 carb at idle was drawing fuel through the main jet while the others were not. Also the idle mixture screw doesnt seem to do anything on that carb. I have no idea what would cause that. Iv googled to the ends of the earth and used google translate to look at something written in Hindi. Nothing. If any of you guys have an idea id greatly thankful. I also reset the float heights to exactly 15mm as the book calls. Thanks guys","At this point im probably talking to a wall, however iv made progress. Pulled the carbs, cleaned again. This time with much more aggression. Like 150 psi air nozzle. Blew some sort of gunk from deep in the idle circuit. Wouldnt you know the miss at idle went away. I began to look down the throats of the carbs and noticed that #3 carb at idle was drawing fuel through the main jet while the others were not. Also the idle mixture screw doesnt seem to do anything on that carb. I have no idea what would cause that. Iv googled to the ends of the earth and used google translate to look at something written in Hindi. Nothing. If any of you guys have an idea id greatly thankful. I also reset the float heights to exactly 15mm as the book calls. Thanks guys","I just started the motor again , where does the water exit the motor ,throught the exhaust?" +"Hey guys. Iv run into a bit of a conundrum. I finally finished putting the console in my boat and took it out for a spin. Ran into an issue, it was running out of fuel at WOT so id stop prime it and back at it. When I got home i put the new tank and bulb in it alomg with a nee fuel pump for giggles. Now im having the exact opposite problem. I took it out last night and could run at WOT no problem but it would big for a couple minutes until on the plane. I took the silencer off and the lower chamber in was full of fuel. I ordered the correct pump but naturally its different so I'm wondering if the difference could be over pumping the lowest carb and the closest to the main feed lime for all the carbs. The inlet snd outlet of the pump are the nect size up so I'm really thinking thats the problem. What do you guys think?? Thanks!","keeth said: + + + + At this point im probably talking to a wall, however iv made progress. Pulled the carbs, cleaned again. This time with much more aggression. Like 150 psi air nozzle. Blew some sort of gunk from deep in the idle circuit. Wouldnt you know the miss at idle went away. I began to look down the throats of the carbs and noticed that #3 carb at idle was drawing fuel through the main jet while the others were not. Also the idle mixture screw doesnt seem to do anything on that carb. I have no idea what would cause that. Iv googled to the ends of the earth and used google translate to look at something written in Hindi. Nothing. If any of you guys have an idea id greatly thankful. I also reset the float heights to exactly 15mm as the book calls. Thanks guys + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for posting results! This is very helpful for others.","keeth said: + + + + At this point im probably talking to a wall, however iv made progress. Pulled the carbs, cleaned again. This time with much more aggression. Like 150 psi air nozzle. Blew some sort of gunk from deep in the idle circuit. Wouldnt you know the miss at idle went away. I began to look down the throats of the carbs and noticed that #3 carb at idle was drawing fuel through the main jet while the others were not. Also the idle mixture screw doesnt seem to do anything on that carb. I have no idea what would cause that. Iv googled to the ends of the earth and used google translate to look at something written in Hindi. Nothing. If any of you guys have an idea id greatly thankful. I also reset the float heights to exactly 15mm as the book calls. Thanks guys + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for posting results! This is very helpful for others.",Did you back of 1/4 turn loose on the nut after getting it tight? The proper way is to jack the tire up and tighten the nut until the tire will not spin free. Loosen the nut 1/4 turn and then install the keeper and cotter pin. Then install the bearing buddy and pump it with grease until the grease pushes slightly out on the center of the bearing buddy. +"""Hi there! + +I have a 1999 F + +""Hi there! + +I have a 1999 F100 Fourstroke outboard. last season it began to misfire between 2000 and 3500 rpm. Below and above this range the engine ran fine and idled perfectly. I did the following to try and solve the problem; +-The carbs have been cleaned and balanced twice +-New Spark Plugs +-Normal service +-new HT leads +-Coils have been tested and are fine +I am 99% Sure that this is an ignition problem... + +This season the engine started to constantly misfire at any revs after i had been trolling for about 15 minutes. I stopped the engine and once it had cooled it was ok apart from the original 2000 to 3000 rpm problem. + +Since then the problem has become much worse and now the engine will misfire so badly above 2000RPM that it sometimes completely stalls. It still can rev in neutral up to 5000 RPM but not smoothly. + +One thing i tried was putting the engine in gear (in the water), take it to the point it misfires and remove an HT lead from a spark plug. when 1 and 4 were removed, the engine completely stalled. when 2 and 3 were removed there was no difference to the misfire, indicating it was these two cylinders which werent firing. I swapped the two coils and corrosponding wires and repeated the test. Tis time it was cylinders 2 and 3 which stalled the engine... So, it seemed to be the coil. I replaced the coils and we repeated the test and this time the misfiring cylinders fluctuated between all 4 cylinders and was very hard to determin + +So can anyone help me here? any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! + +Thanks +Dave""","I know that this is a very old post, but wondering if you ever solved this issue?","I know that this is a very old post, but wondering if you ever solved this issue?",I'll also add that it is a two stroke with an onboard gas tank and there are no fuel leaks +what is the number of turns out on the idle air adjustment,"If the motor in question is a two stroke type, then the initial setting is 2 turns outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 3/4 turn.","If the motor in question is a two stroke type, then the initial setting is 2 turns outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 3/4 turn.",Try to get file down to below 1000 KB. I use LitPhoto on my smart phone. +what is the number of turns out on the idle air adjustment,"boscoe said: + + + + If the motor in question is a two stroke type, then the initial setting is 2 turns outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 3/4 turn. + +Click to expand... + +ok thanks what about getting rid of the thumb caps because one is gone can i go with a different screw and spring","boscoe said: + + + + If the motor in question is a two stroke type, then the initial setting is 2 turns outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 3/4 turn. + +Click to expand... + +ok thanks what about getting rid of the thumb caps because one is gone can i go with a different screw and spring","DUHHHHHHHHHH +math was alwys my worst subjects +i will stick to only 1 cooler/livewell" +what is the number of turns out on the idle air adjustment,ok thanks. What about getting rid of the thumb caps because one is gone. Can I go with a different screw and spring?,ok thanks. What about getting rid of the thumb caps because one is gone. Can I go with a different screw and spring?,old impeller all there when you removed it? +what is the number of turns out on the idle air adjustment,The cap is just an anti-tamper device. Can be removed and thrown away. Reuse the existing screw and spring or give Yam some money for new one.,The cap is just an anti-tamper device. Can be removed and thrown away. Reuse the existing screw and spring or give Yam some money for new one.,"Re: 90 hp Yamaha power trim motor + +Yamaha 90 power trim motor." +"She idles ok all day. Surges terrible up on plane. Changed three primary fuel filters. Have mystery filters on order. 50 psi medium pressure always even though press reg will lower pressure if I put in some hand pump vacuum. Why no vac at idle???? This must be a problem. Idle has been ****ty for last two years that I’ve owned it. +TPS, O2, neutral switch all check out good. +Only 220 hours on this old beast and all fuel filters/areas were pristine.","Update: hi pressure fuel sensor holds steady at 3.0 volts even as motor surges. +2” Hg vacuum at idle at motor fuel entrance.","Update: hi pressure fuel sensor holds steady at 3.0 volts even as motor surges. +2” Hg vacuum at idle at motor fuel entrance.", +"My son bought a 06 Yamaha 115 2 stroke the motor is very clean and was always serviced. Last summer the motor ran fine with out an issue, service and put up for the winter. This summer runs fine until last week. Starts fine runs good top speed at 45 mph, then all of a sudden loss of power and it like bogges down, acts like no gas or no spark to two cyclinders. My son shuts it off fishes for 1/2 hour and starts up runs fine. He thinks it is a fluke. Does the same thing again just as he is backing off the boat lift running fine then start to rev up sounds like it is only half the engine will not get up pass 2500 rmp. We take it to repair shop, checks oil tank, fuel filter and he starts it all is fine. He thinks it is the CDI or some other electrical issue under the fly wheel. But does not want to order either part because he is not sure and they are expensive. So any ideas? Thank you in advance.","What I've found to be accurate and most useful when troubleshooting is a piece of advice given to me by a yamaha master mechanic....when the engine isn't giving top performance the start troubleshooting the fuel system because 90% of the time it's the fuel system where the issue resides, not spark or compression. + +When was the last time the carbs were pulled and cleaned, including pulling jets?","What I've found to be accurate and most useful when troubleshooting is a piece of advice given to me by a yamaha master mechanic....when the engine isn't giving top performance the start troubleshooting the fuel system because 90% of the time it's the fuel system where the issue resides, not spark or compression. + +When was the last time the carbs were pulled and cleaned, including pulling jets?","One other thing you could do yourself is check the resistance on all your injectors to make sure they are all good. If you pull the injector harnesses off and use an ohm meter on the two injector blades you should get a reading in the 12-16 range.........but it's important that they are all the same (plus minus a few tenths). I have two f115s and a f150 and the injectors would all read in the 15ish range. It's possible that you have a bad injector that is heating up and shorting out. Nice thing about this is it's pretty simple to do yourself. + +Good Luck" +"Good evening all, + +I have had 2 mechanics come by my dock and they both failed to diagnose the issue I am having. Trying here since I really do not want to pull the boat out and take it to the shop during prime season here in Michigan. + +1998 yamaha 25HP 2stroke with the 703 remote system installed on my 20ft pontoon boat. Beginning of the season everything worked perfectly. 2nd week of season started having intermitten issue where the starter would not crank. This issue has gotten worse and now the starter never works. I can turn the key to run, pull the starter cord and the engine fires right up and runs great. + +Here is what I know and have done to troubleshoot so far. +- battery tester at local auto parts shop ( passes voltage and load tests ) +- battery reads 12.6 V +- battery side of starter solenoid reads 12.6 V +- if I jump the solenoid main leads the engine cranks ( starter good ) +- if I remove the ignition trigger lead from the solenoid and jump to positive the solenoid closes and starter cranks ( solenoid good ) +- if I connect to ground and the brown ignition circuit wire coming from the remote control when the key is held in ""start"" position I get 12V ( seems ignition loop is good ) +- once I reconnect the brown ignition wire to the solendoid and put my test lead into the connection I no longer get 12V when switching to the ""start"" position ( it seems connecting to the solendoid is somehow killing the ignition circuit ) + +Other things I have tried +- replaced starter solendoid +- replaced ignition switch +- cleaned battery connection +- cleaned all connections to starter and relay +- bypassed and tested kill switch ( tests fine ) +- bypassed and tested the neutral safety switch in the remote ( tests fine ) +- check all connections under the cowl ( nothing loose or corroded ) +- disconnected the lighting and radio from the battery completely + +Strange part is even when I took apart the remote and tried jumping 12v to the ignition circuit nothing happened. But again if I jump 12v to the small signal lead going into the solenoid the engine cranks. + +A question I have been unable to answer - is there a second neautral safety switch buried someplace inside the engine even if I have a 703 remote installed? I have been unable to find one. + +I would really appreciate some help on this one. I am fairly experienced with engines big and small however this is my first outboard. I have eliminated or tested every variable I can think of and individually everything seems fine but when connected IT WONT CRANK! + +Thanks in advance + +Adam",there is anty gear start switch at lest side of powerhad-on the shift handle side. check if its not stoping starter,there is anty gear start switch at lest side of powerhad-on the shift handle side. check if its not stoping starter,"I would definitely paint it with a marine epoxy paint. Two sources that I have used in the past are West Marine and Jamestown Distributors. Both carry a wide variety of paints for this job and have very good literature available for download and instructional videos. Down in Hatteras where I hang out ion the winter, almost all of the charter boats use these paints, not gelcoat." +Just picked up a 2000 yamaha 15 hp 4 stroke. Noticed when i had it out for the third time today that the water visible from the water pump totally dissapears at anything over half throttle or so. The motor didn't show any signs of over heating. I assume it has an overheat alarm but not positive on that. At anything under half throttle it has a nice healthy looking stream coming out. I'm a little hesitant to take it out now not being sure. Any ideas?,I would suggest you inspect and change your impellor,I would suggest you inspect and change your impellor,"Put the voltmeter red probe directly on the positive lead to the starter motor. Put the voltmeter black probe on a clean ground point on the block. Meter set to DV volts. + +Have someone turn the key to the start position. While the starter motor attempts to crank the motor what voltage do you see?" +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","Oh also, before we put it in the water we also replaced the impeller. + +When the throttle cable gave out I wasn't even touching it which is interesting to me. We just made it out of deeper water and I could see it was a bit shallower but I highly doubt we hit anything. Maybe sucked something up and its still there? Engine still spits out water but could it be partly clogged causing a lack of power? + +I've flushed the engine with a hose after every use since I'm on saltwater. When connecting with that hose adapter is shoots the water through quite strong so that doesn't seem clogged at that point. Maybe clogged down lower? + + (Forgive my ignorance, I'm learning)","Oh also, before we put it in the water we also replaced the impeller. + +When the throttle cable gave out I wasn't even touching it which is interesting to me. We just made it out of deeper water and I could see it was a bit shallower but I highly doubt we hit anything. Maybe sucked something up and its still there? Engine still spits out water but could it be partly clogged causing a lack of power? + +I've flushed the engine with a hose after every use since I'm on saltwater. When connecting with that hose adapter is shoots the water through quite strong so that doesn't seem clogged at that point. Maybe clogged down lower? + + (Forgive my ignorance, I'm learning)","Agree with Boscoe....its got to be the pickup but more likely the anti-siphon valve. Before going through effort of accessing the tank, hook up a portable fuel tank to motor and run at WOT (or a milk jug lol). Assuming the result is no fuel starvation, remove anti-siphon valve as Boscoe noted. + +If you also informed the service shop that the primer was going flat then I kinda feel like they took advantage of the situation....as a flat primer bulb implies a restriction – not a pump failure, sour fuel/water separator, gummed up carbs, and/or deteriorating fuel lines. Just my opinion of course." +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","schreck425 said: + + + + Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either. + +Click to expand... + + +What year is the engine? Being that the engine was running great as you mentioned prior to the throttle cable issue, my initial assessment is the throttle cable is still the issue. Rather, the installation of the throttle cable was not properly installed. The engine stalling while idling, coupled with the lack of throttle you're able to apply (rpms), suggests to me the throttle plates are closing when the throttle is in idle position. They should never be completely closed. This too points to improper installation of throttle cable. + +Reply back with engine year/model number and we'll go from there.","schreck425 said: + + + + Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either. + +Click to expand... + + +What year is the engine? Being that the engine was running great as you mentioned prior to the throttle cable issue, my initial assessment is the throttle cable is still the issue. Rather, the installation of the throttle cable was not properly installed. The engine stalling while idling, coupled with the lack of throttle you're able to apply (rpms), suggests to me the throttle plates are closing when the throttle is in idle position. They should never be completely closed. This too points to improper installation of throttle cable. + +Reply back with engine year/model number and we'll go from there.",Yaa it is old. So what's the point? +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + What year is the engine? Being that the engine was running great as you mentioned prior to the throttle cable issue, my initial assessment is the throttle cable is still the issue. Rather, the installation of the throttle cable was not properly installed. The engine stalling while idling, coupled with the lack of throttle you're able to apply (rpms), suggests to me the throttle plates are closing when the throttle is in idle position. They should never be completely closed. This too points to improper installation of throttle cable. + +Reply back with engine year/model number and we'll go from there. + +Click to expand... + + +2002 Yamaha 90 TLRA. + +If I had never felt the engine go faster than it does then I wouldn't have ever thought twice about this. But I'm pretty sure it did, that and the idle is running awful so that's why I'm not just thinking that it's fine.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + What year is the engine? Being that the engine was running great as you mentioned prior to the throttle cable issue, my initial assessment is the throttle cable is still the issue. Rather, the installation of the throttle cable was not properly installed. The engine stalling while idling, coupled with the lack of throttle you're able to apply (rpms), suggests to me the throttle plates are closing when the throttle is in idle position. They should never be completely closed. This too points to improper installation of throttle cable. + +Reply back with engine year/model number and we'll go from there. + +Click to expand... + + +2002 Yamaha 90 TLRA. + +If I had never felt the engine go faster than it does then I wouldn't have ever thought twice about this. But I'm pretty sure it did, that and the idle is running awful so that's why I'm not just thinking that it's fine.","I think 15.5v is too high. + +may be that rectifier is bad... + +just normal 13.0~14 v @ idle. + +rectifier inspection need a DVA tools." +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.",Understood. But don't overlook the importance of the proper setting of the throttle cable and its effect on idle and WOT. They are directly related. Refer to your service manual for step by step procedures to ensure proper cable setting.,Understood. But don't overlook the importance of the proper setting of the throttle cable and its effect on idle and WOT. They are directly related. Refer to your service manual for step by step procedures to ensure proper cable setting.,"So I finally figured out the issue. The choke is not working on my remote control, I have to use the choke that is on my outboard. Anyone ever have this issue before? If so, how do I fix it, aside from replacing my remote control module." +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","Ok. I'll look back into it when I can and let you know how it goes. I keep coming back to the throttle cable also because the carbs and other things were just serviced not too long ago and it ran for great for a good 30 minutes before the throttle arm became disconnected. + +Quick question then, if the throttle cable isn't set right then when I'm at neutral its possible that its just not giving it enough gas to stay on? I guess I figured there'd always be a minimum amount of gas for neutral that it feeds it. + +Thank you for the help!! To be continued!","Ok. I'll look back into it when I can and let you know how it goes. I keep coming back to the throttle cable also because the carbs and other things were just serviced not too long ago and it ran for great for a good 30 minutes before the throttle arm became disconnected. + +Quick question then, if the throttle cable isn't set right then when I'm at neutral its possible that its just not giving it enough gas to stay on? I guess I figured there'd always be a minimum amount of gas for neutral that it feeds it. + +Thank you for the help!! To be continued!","I have a 'normal' starting battery on ther port side, and 4 deep cycles on the other side. A dual bank charger keeps the ""house"" batteries up, where a simple trickle charger easily maintains the port starting battery--all it needs. This has been a successful setup for some time, and there are NO electronic gizmos involved--just a simple Perko battery switch. + +Jeff" +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","schreck425 said: + + + + Quick question then, if the throttle cable isn't set right then when I'm at neutral its possible that its just not giving it enough gas to stay on? I guess I figured there'd always be a minimum amount of gas for neutral that it feeds it. + +Thank you for the help!! To be continued! + +Click to expand... + + +Did the cable end with the circular eye detach from the magneto control lever? That's where I'm thinking it happened, since the inner diameter of that eye can become worn and thus not seat onto the control lever firm enough. + +After reinstalling the cable, if the control lever on the engine was set retarded when making the connection then the throttle plates would be closed. This would indeed cause stalling at idle. There needs to be a small amount of air pulled into the carbs through plates at idle in order to keep engine running. + +The picture below is of your engines control. The parts I referenced above is #6 and #7. And if this is the location where the cable detached, pay attention to part #9, the clip that secures cable to control lever.","schreck425 said: + + + + Quick question then, if the throttle cable isn't set right then when I'm at neutral its possible that its just not giving it enough gas to stay on? I guess I figured there'd always be a minimum amount of gas for neutral that it feeds it. + +Thank you for the help!! To be continued! + +Click to expand... + + +Did the cable end with the circular eye detach from the magneto control lever? That's where I'm thinking it happened, since the inner diameter of that eye can become worn and thus not seat onto the control lever firm enough. + +After reinstalling the cable, if the control lever on the engine was set retarded when making the connection then the throttle plates would be closed. This would indeed cause stalling at idle. There needs to be a small amount of air pulled into the carbs through plates at idle in order to keep engine running. + +The picture below is of your engines control. The parts I referenced above is #6 and #7. And if this is the location where the cable detached, pay attention to part #9, the clip that secures cable to control lever.",Thought I would post the eventual issue in case someone else is searching this. Turns out I had the gasket on the wrong side of the plate. Duh +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","So I had time to at least look at the cabling. I took photos, rotated them in photoshop to give you a good look at them, and this forum is having an error trying to upload them, hopefully they go through. Let me post this first to see if the pics work....","So I had time to at least look at the cabling. I took photos, rotated them in photoshop to give you a good look at them, and this forum is having an error trying to upload them, hopefully they go through. Let me post this first to see if the pics work....",1993 50 hp evinrude 2-stroke +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","Awesome! Got them to go through! So the zoomed in photo shows where it came off. It's more on the bottom of the engine, not the top where the finally connection is made to rotate the fuel flow lever (sorry I don't know proper terms). Looking at your drawing, 6 and 7 look more at the top where it didn't disconnect. The bottom connection is where it came off and can't go any further, it runs into the gray stopper. + +I guess if it is the levers, the one on top would have had to have shifted or something but it looks like it's going as far as it can go. That's why I don't believe we fixed it improperly and maybe something else is going on like fuel flow. + +Btw, typically if I haven't driven it in a couple weeks I need to get starter fluid out to get it to start.","Awesome! Got them to go through! So the zoomed in photo shows where it came off. It's more on the bottom of the engine, not the top where the finally connection is made to rotate the fuel flow lever (sorry I don't know proper terms). Looking at your drawing, 6 and 7 look more at the top where it didn't disconnect. The bottom connection is where it came off and can't go any further, it runs into the gray stopper. + +I guess if it is the levers, the one on top would have had to have shifted or something but it looks like it's going as far as it can go. That's why I don't believe we fixed it improperly and maybe something else is going on like fuel flow. + +Btw, typically if I haven't driven it in a couple weeks I need to get starter fluid out to get it to start.","Wouldn't coffee machine descaler etc or vinegar give a better flush too? +If so would have to use a bag/bucket instead of muffs." +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.",More pics hopefully attached.,More pics hopefully attached.,"Sounds like your talking about the newer yamaha outboards. i have an 86' carb'd yamaha 70ETLJ. I was wondering if anyone has ever swapped the jets and needle out with jets and needle from the 90ELTJ. I have done some research, the part numbers are very very close to the same. it is simply changing the needle and going from a #78 to #80 Jet and from a 150 Main to 165 Main Jet. I thought of this because my buddy has an old carb'd mariner 115 and his mechanic swapped in the mariner 150 jets and he now has a 150 with 115 decals. There is quite a difference in power all around. Do you think the 90 jets would make a noticeable increase in power? I want to guess for some reason the top end might gain a max of another 5-6MPH, but the bottom end would benefit most when coming out of the hole. What are your thoughts? Let me know any of your thoughts" +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.",Come on forum... you can do it...,Come on forum... you can do it...,"trynhooker said: + + + + correct, pieces 8, 9 and 10. You might be able to see under there while it's running on the flush rig. You might need a telescoping mirror to see clearly + +Click to expand... + + +Well, it appeared to be dry in that area. Family wanted to use the boat this weekend so I went ahead and put it in. The normal stream is flowing very fast so it's clearly getting cooled well. I'm going to keep an eye on it and as long as it doesn't change in September I'll haul it to a guy that I trust a little further away who told me it was only a $200 fix. This is used on a relatively small private lake so even if one of the kids overheat it, they can phone someone to come get them and if it gets toasted I'll buy a new motor. + +thanks + +steve" +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.",One more...,One more...,Thanks Jerry and Boscoe. +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","I take it back, that actually might be 6/7","I take it back, that actually might be 6/7",Well said boscoe. Just a little maintenance! Doesn't everyone service the water pump yearly? +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","Since you had to jimi rig the end of the throttle cable to control lever, safe to assume the clip disengaged causing the cable joint to come off the control lever. I'd order that clip from a distributor. It's only a few bucks. + +Now I think more about it, what I would do is time and sync the carbs after adjusting the throttle sensor control link. If you do not have the service manual for your engine you're in luck. I found one online for free. It's here: https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/414-2002-yamaha-60x-70x-75x-90x/file + +Section 3...Page 3-3 for carb sync and page 3-7 and 3-8 for throttle sensor control link adjustment.","Since you had to jimi rig the end of the throttle cable to control lever, safe to assume the clip disengaged causing the cable joint to come off the control lever. I'd order that clip from a distributor. It's only a few bucks. + +Now I think more about it, what I would do is time and sync the carbs after adjusting the throttle sensor control link. If you do not have the service manual for your engine you're in luck. I found one online for free. It's here: https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/414-2002-yamaha-60x-70x-75x-90x/file + +Section 3...Page 3-3 for carb sync and page 3-7 and 3-8 for throttle sensor control link adjustment.",I got the shirt too +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","Update: Never did figure out for sure what was going on. Finally trying to do something about it. We pulled the carbs to clean them and while disconnecting something we had to pull things apart. One thing we noticed was a lever that ran down under and to the other side to the oil pump. The connector onto the oil pump was split in half, part 6H1-41237-00-00. Didn't seem to notice anything major while cleaning the carbs. Sounds like if that level fails then the engine will be mixing oil on the heavy side which could explain it wanting to die at idle. The engine doesn't seem to smoke any though. We are installing a water separator, fixing that oil pump clip when we get a new one, and hopefully we'll be in better shape.","Update: Never did figure out for sure what was going on. Finally trying to do something about it. We pulled the carbs to clean them and while disconnecting something we had to pull things apart. One thing we noticed was a lever that ran down under and to the other side to the oil pump. The connector onto the oil pump was split in half, part 6H1-41237-00-00. Didn't seem to notice anything major while cleaning the carbs. Sounds like if that level fails then the engine will be mixing oil on the heavy side which could explain it wanting to die at idle. The engine doesn't seem to smoke any though. We are installing a water separator, fixing that oil pump clip when we get a new one, and hopefully we'll be in better shape.","I've had a Lowrance X85 for maybe 8-10 years and haven't really had any problems with it. I just figured that with technology moving like it has, it would be time to upgrade. Someone mentioned that a color chart is better for reading what's down there than black and white. How does that work and is something I should go for?" +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","Live and learn man, it comes with being an amateur outboard mechanic. Not to be a jerk, but had you followed your service manual instructions for pulling and reistalling carbs you would have noticed the broken part. Assessing the oil pump is one of the steps involved with timing and syncing carbs. Be that as it may, like i said you live and learn.","Live and learn man, it comes with being an amateur outboard mechanic. Not to be a jerk, but had you followed your service manual instructions for pulling and reistalling carbs you would have noticed the broken part. Assessing the oil pump is one of the steps involved with timing and syncing carbs. Be that as it may, like i said you live and learn.","Depends upon the 'ancillaries'...as a rule, keep the 'engine stuff' isolated from the 'hull stuff'. as far as the 'engine stuff' - your tech's suggestion is viable. + +On the fuel pump, make sure it has one of the recognized ways to satisfy the shutdown requirements - typically using an oil pressure switch. + +Also, make sure the ignition switch is in good shape as well as the main harness connector..." +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","I just meant that we hadn't tried anything since the last time that I asked in the fall, and we started the process, like you said to work on the carbs and did notice the broken part quickly. Thank you for the link of the manual. I've got a new part replacement, going to use the manual to sync the carbs, put it all back together and hope that fixes the problem.","I just meant that we hadn't tried anything since the last time that I asked in the fall, and we started the process, like you said to work on the carbs and did notice the broken part quickly. Thank you for the link of the manual. I've got a new part replacement, going to use the manual to sync the carbs, put it all back together and hope that fixes the problem.","It's actually set up as a 120v plug in to a receiptical . I also know because of thr Pex tubing I need. 100 psi T&P valve. +There has been the same type unit on board for 11 yrs. Just running this senerio by everyone. Looking for anything negative. +Lou R." +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","Boat still has issues with the throttle cables. + +Replaced the oil lever connecter, cleaned the carbs, but ran into an issue while putting things back together. The oil lever bar doesn't seem to stay free once we put the oil reservoir back in place. We tried to move hose lines around but didn't come up with a perfect solution. It doesn't seem like the connector we replaced, part 21 on the link, is free to move all of the way once we put the reservoir back in. + +We put the boat back in the water and things are different now. + +It idles great now. No more stalling. Seems to run stronger for the 0-50% throttle. I can wiggle the throttle and sometimes the engine wants to really go, as if that lever slips into position occasionally and things are correct for a second. I've had it want to take off fast while throttling down a few times. If I got past a threshold though, around 50%, it actually loses power. WOT gives me 3600 RPM but just the right spot around 50% Throttle can get me almost 4000 RPM. + +Also, one time I throttled down and couldn't get the engine to idle for a bit. With the throttle in idle position it was acting like 25% throttle. I had to turn it off and when I'd turn it back on the engine would rev. Eventually I felt the lines slip back into place and it was back to normal. Definitely not good. Went into reverse pretty hard that time too. + +Next time I get a chance we're going to look again to find a way to make that lever not get blocked when we put the oil reservoir back in... That sure seems to be the issue even more now. Anyone else have any insight that could help? Is this a known ""gotcha"" on engines? + +http://www.marineengine.com/parts/yamaha-outboard-parts/2002/90/90TLRA/620302770006 +Connector we replaced - Part 21 +Oil Lever - Part 20. +Resevoir - Part 26","Boat still has issues with the throttle cables. + +Replaced the oil lever connecter, cleaned the carbs, but ran into an issue while putting things back together. The oil lever bar doesn't seem to stay free once we put the oil reservoir back in place. We tried to move hose lines around but didn't come up with a perfect solution. It doesn't seem like the connector we replaced, part 21 on the link, is free to move all of the way once we put the reservoir back in. + +We put the boat back in the water and things are different now. + +It idles great now. No more stalling. Seems to run stronger for the 0-50% throttle. I can wiggle the throttle and sometimes the engine wants to really go, as if that lever slips into position occasionally and things are correct for a second. I've had it want to take off fast while throttling down a few times. If I got past a threshold though, around 50%, it actually loses power. WOT gives me 3600 RPM but just the right spot around 50% Throttle can get me almost 4000 RPM. + +Also, one time I throttled down and couldn't get the engine to idle for a bit. With the throttle in idle position it was acting like 25% throttle. I had to turn it off and when I'd turn it back on the engine would rev. Eventually I felt the lines slip back into place and it was back to normal. Definitely not good. Went into reverse pretty hard that time too. + +Next time I get a chance we're going to look again to find a way to make that lever not get blocked when we put the oil reservoir back in... That sure seems to be the issue even more now. Anyone else have any insight that could help? Is this a known ""gotcha"" on engines? + +http://www.marineengine.com/parts/yamaha-outboard-parts/2002/90/90TLRA/620302770006 +Connector we replaced - Part 21 +Oil Lever - Part 20. +Resevoir - Part 26","For most single helm installations with domestic engines and analog gauges, the answer is yes, the sender units will interchange...most use the ""US Standard"" which will show the minimum value with 240 ohms between the sender and ground and go to full scale with 33 ohms between the sender and ground. + +If you can't find the info in the gauge maker's data sheets, you can always ""measure what you have""." +"Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either.","We still can't figure it out... We addressed that oil lever and made sure all of the lines are out of the way. Everything looks like it goes to the right position. Still, power feels fine until you get half way up the throttle, around 3100 RPM, and then the rest of the way nothing really changes even as the levers move. Now I'm starting to wonder if it's as simple as a fuel flow problem. + +Could a failing fuel pump cause it to only provide so much fuel and then not any more fuel even though you're pushing the throttle further?","We still can't figure it out... We addressed that oil lever and made sure all of the lines are out of the way. Everything looks like it goes to the right position. Still, power feels fine until you get half way up the throttle, around 3100 RPM, and then the rest of the way nothing really changes even as the levers move. Now I'm starting to wonder if it's as simple as a fuel flow problem. + +Could a failing fuel pump cause it to only provide so much fuel and then not any more fuel even though you're pushing the throttle further?",Mercury 1986 115hp cable steer steering @ the front���� +"Mechanic thinks it could be a head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket or the gasket on bottom of engine or cracked block. But he said there is no test and it's replace and see. + +The motor starts fine and runs good as soon as the water is burned off. It idles funny until water is burned off too. + +I told him try a head gasket, then I'll cut my loses. +Is there a definitive test to determine where/how water +is getting in one cylinder?","Mechanic is correct, go the head gasket route first","Mechanic is correct, go the head gasket route first","Tegweni said: + + + + Synchronize your throttle valves they should all be closed at idle and your TPS volts should be between 0.48 to 0.52 when you have done this adjust the oil pump arm linkage at idle the arm should touch the stopper . on this model you will take a chance if you bleed it running it on a premixed as the oil pump feeds the vst tank and the manifold onto the cylinders .at idle disconnect the throttle oil pump link arm then move the oi pump arm by hand to its fully open position while at idle to bleed it + +Click to expand... + + +Sorry this was ment to go on another thread." +"Mechanic thinks it could be a head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket or the gasket on bottom of engine or cracked block. But he said there is no test and it's replace and see. + +The motor starts fine and runs good as soon as the water is burned off. It idles funny until water is burned off too. + +I told him try a head gasket, then I'll cut my loses. +Is there a definitive test to determine where/how water +is getting in one cylinder?","Thanks +I'll post an update. Fingers crossed it's just the head gasket!","Thanks +I'll post an update. Fingers crossed it's just the head gasket!",Yaa it is old. So what's the point? +"Mechanic thinks it could be a head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket or the gasket on bottom of engine or cracked block. But he said there is no test and it's replace and see. + +The motor starts fine and runs good as soon as the water is burned off. It idles funny until water is burned off too. + +I told him try a head gasket, then I'll cut my loses. +Is there a definitive test to determine where/how water +is getting in one cylinder?",Did your mechanic run a compression test and or cylinder leak down test to confirm this issue?,Did your mechanic run a compression test and or cylinder leak down test to confirm this issue?,check the primary and secondry resistance on your ignition coils and compare our readings with cdi electronics chart. +"Mechanic thinks it could be a head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket or the gasket on bottom of engine or cracked block. But he said there is no test and it's replace and see. + +The motor starts fine and runs good as soon as the water is burned off. It idles funny until water is burned off too. + +I told him try a head gasket, then I'll cut my loses. +Is there a definitive test to determine where/how water +is getting in one cylinder?",I have no idea. That's why I asked if there were any tests to isolate the problem.,I have no idea. That's why I asked if there were any tests to isolate the problem.,"captainkeene said: + + + + I am having the same issue with my 9.9. starts on forst pull and idles great but when you gas it, it bogs down. It feels like maybe the timing is not advancing?? someone said that is the oil pressure is low it may retard the timing during high idle, but i am getting a green oil pressure light. I also heard that if the fuel pump diaphragm leaks fuel into the oil it would cause similar issues. I am going to replace the diaphragm this week and put in a new oil pressure switch. let me know if you figure out your problem. good luck. + +Click to expand... + + +I have not heard that from anyone. What year is your 9,9? My oil light is fine but I unplugged it anyways just to be sure. Also I've been told they don't have an advance. I figure if they do it all created in the power pack. I took the fuel pump apart...there is not much to them. It squirts across my driveway and tested at 4 pounds, I don't think that's the cause. Pretty bafold on this one. + +Does anyone know what each coil does under the flywheel? There are what I believe 2 charge coils (what do they do) and one lightning coil (what does it do) I ran ohm test but had trouble getting any voltage test that was suggested in other blogs. + +Any help would be greatly appreciated." +"Mechanic thinks it could be a head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket or the gasket on bottom of engine or cracked block. But he said there is no test and it's replace and see. + +The motor starts fine and runs good as soon as the water is burned off. It idles funny until water is burned off too. + +I told him try a head gasket, then I'll cut my loses. +Is there a definitive test to determine where/how water +is getting in one cylinder?","Epilogue +The problem is not the head gasket. I was hopeful as two middle bolts were seized from it appears water. I was hoping a bad head gasket was to blame for both. + +I think I'll cut loses. Dealer has a brand new 20 hp yamaha for $2900. I think I'll bite the bullet and enjoy some carefree boating.","Epilogue +The problem is not the head gasket. I was hopeful as two middle bolts were seized from it appears water. I was hoping a bad head gasket was to blame for both. + +I think I'll cut loses. Dealer has a brand new 20 hp yamaha for $2900. I think I'll bite the bullet and enjoy some carefree boating.","Could be a bulb (or LED) built into the switch or it could be separate from the switch....is the body of the switch, under the panel, larger enough to be as large as the knob?" +"Long time reader, first time poster. My outboard is a 2001 Yamaha F100. + +The engine itself runs like a top, zero issues with that I believe. The noise is 100% coming from the midsection of the outboard down. I just installed a brand new stock Yamaha 13.25X17 aluminum prop, as well as the spacer, bushing and castle nut on the prop shaft. I did just do the water impeller as well. I have a whine, not sure if you can hear it in the video, from 1000-1500RPM, it goes away after 1500RPM. But since changing the prop I now have this chatter all the way to 5500RPM, doesn't appear to go away. Performance of the motor doesn't seemed hindered at all. Still can get to max RPM, cruise at same speed, etc. + +Any help on what this noise may be? Thanks in advance. + +Video Link: https://youtu.be/DwMGPG-qoQs I",Ran it today off the trailer with the old prop and still had the same chatter. Not sure what it is at this point. I am purchasing a new drive shaft bushing and will be replacing it. I don't believe it'd make that clicking noise though. Bent prop shaft or drive shaft maybe?,Ran it today off the trailer with the old prop and still had the same chatter. Not sure what it is at this point. I am purchasing a new drive shaft bushing and will be replacing it. I don't believe it'd make that clicking noise though. Bent prop shaft or drive shaft maybe?,"15A 651 is what i have the first six would that help +thanks bill" +Have a Yamaha 1971 8hp or Mariner 8a. Idles pretty good runs up to half way and than if you try to go any higher it will quit.,Got it working plugged jet,Got it working plugged jet,"Eischman said: + + + + I see this thread is 3 years old but was wondering how offen (hours)you should change the in line fuel filters on a stern drive?? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... There shouldn't be any in-line fuel filters,...... just the canister filter just before the fuel pump,....." +I’m having trouble with the tilt & trim on my 2000 40 hp 4stroke. I can’t figure out if it’s just needing fluid or the motor has went bad. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!,What's the trouble?,What's the trouble?,"think about a rebuilt powerhead? they used to be ""cheap"" cause there are so many out there. couldn't hurt to look" +I’m having trouble with the tilt & trim on my 2000 40 hp 4stroke. I can’t figure out if it’s just needing fluid or the motor has went bad. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!,"That’s what i’m Trying to figure out,and hoping someone on this forum could help me out.","That’s what i’m Trying to figure out,and hoping someone on this forum could help me out.","use the tube nut with the zerk to put a ""waterproof marine"" grease into the assembly...will provide much better protection that any oil" +I’m having trouble with the tilt & trim on my 2000 40 hp 4stroke. I can’t figure out if it’s just needing fluid or the motor has went bad. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!,"I’m having trouble getting fluid into the tilt & trim unit & then when I do get a little fluid in it will work a little ,but is very slow.","I’m having trouble getting fluid into the tilt & trim unit & then when I do get a little fluid in it will work a little ,but is very slow.","You don't have to take it to a dealer. You can change it yourself. You can do any maintenance on the motor of which you are capable. + +Yamaha may ""recommend"" that the motor be taken to a dealer for the filter change but remember that they are selling motors to folks that have no idea which way the point of a screw driver goes. There are some folks that can botch an oil filter change and then blame Yamaha for the problem. Yamaha wants people to own Yamaha motors when some of those people should not be allowed outside the asylum." +I’m having trouble with the tilt & trim on my 2000 40 hp 4stroke. I can’t figure out if it’s just needing fluid or the motor has went bad. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!,I guess there isn’t anyone on this forum that can help me with this problem. Thank You anyway!,I guess there isn’t anyone on this forum that can help me with this problem. Thank You anyway!,What is the complete model of the motor? +"Hey y'all, first time posting here. Im having some problems with getting my boat up to speed. I have a Yamaha 200 outboard v6 2 stroke, on a 20' Boston whaler. I do all the necessary startup procedures and she starts up most of the time, sometimes it shuts off almost instantly. When it gets started and finally stays running, and you try to speed up, after a little while she suddenly drops to idle and then will cut out. It's sounds like it's wanting to speed up but it's really sluggish. The boat has sat for some time so maybe just a tune up is needed but I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated","Pull the carbs clean them thoroughly. Blow air through all the passages. Also use carb cleaner or soak them. Iv done it more times than I can count and iv learned one thing above all others, if you think you've cleaned it enough clean it again. A single spec of dirt can wreak havoc. Do that and get back with us. Good luck.","Pull the carbs clean them thoroughly. Blow air through all the passages. Also use carb cleaner or soak them. Iv done it more times than I can count and iv learned one thing above all others, if you think you've cleaned it enough clean it again. A single spec of dirt can wreak havoc. Do that and get back with us. Good luck.","Even without the T/T activated, you may be getting low current (amps) to the engine. It's most likely a grounding problem IMO. You may want to post this issue on the Merc I/O and inboard forum. Go to the top left of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" and scroll down to the Merc I/O and inboard forum and open a new post there." +"Hello there + +Engine shutted off on me while sailing... the upper cylinder pressure so low, the bottom is fine, i pulled the head out + +I found a cracked gasket on the top cylinder, removed it, cleaned the head... + +here's pic of the head after cleaning and some sanding.. probably needs more work + + + + + + + + +The Piston seems not fine, i can fit my nail inside the area + + + + + + +what should i do guys? what you think? should i pull the motor all out? i have rebuild 2 stroke bikes before, but this is my first time rebuilding an outboard... + +any advice will be appreciated","Piston needs to come out and be replaced. Together with the rings. Cylinder wall honed to clean up any damage. Hopefully it will be within limits after clean up. + +Looks like detonation damage to me. Would not be a bad idea to clean the carburetors while you are repairing the motor.","Piston needs to come out and be replaced. Together with the rings. Cylinder wall honed to clean up any damage. Hopefully it will be within limits after clean up. + +Looks like detonation damage to me. Would not be a bad idea to clean the carburetors while you are repairing the motor.","Just so were on the same page....the trim switch you're referring to is the thumb switch located on the remote controls throttle lever? The ""start switch"" you're referring to is the keyed ignition?" +"Hello there + +Engine shutted off on me while sailing... the upper cylinder pressure so low, the bottom is fine, i pulled the head out + +I found a cracked gasket on the top cylinder, removed it, cleaned the head... + +here's pic of the head after cleaning and some sanding.. probably needs more work + + + + + + + + +The Piston seems not fine, i can fit my nail inside the area + + + + + + +what should i do guys? what you think? should i pull the motor all out? i have rebuild 2 stroke bikes before, but this is my first time rebuilding an outboard... + +any advice will be appreciated","boscoe said: + + + + Piston needs to come out and be replaced. Together with the rings. Cylinder wall honed to clean up any damage. Hopefully it will be within limits after clean up. + +Looks like detonation damage to me. Would not be a bad idea to clean the carburetors while you are repairing the motor. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for your replay + +should i change both pistons, is it good idea while the motor is out? or should i change only one and leave the bottom? im concerned about the lower piston it may blow up...","boscoe said: + + + + Piston needs to come out and be replaced. Together with the rings. Cylinder wall honed to clean up any damage. Hopefully it will be within limits after clean up. + +Looks like detonation damage to me. Would not be a bad idea to clean the carburetors while you are repairing the motor. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for your replay + +should i change both pistons, is it good idea while the motor is out? or should i change only one and leave the bottom? im concerned about the lower piston it may blow up...", +"Hello there + +Engine shutted off on me while sailing... the upper cylinder pressure so low, the bottom is fine, i pulled the head out + +I found a cracked gasket on the top cylinder, removed it, cleaned the head... + +here's pic of the head after cleaning and some sanding.. probably needs more work + + + + + + + + +The Piston seems not fine, i can fit my nail inside the area + + + + + + +what should i do guys? what you think? should i pull the motor all out? i have rebuild 2 stroke bikes before, but this is my first time rebuilding an outboard... + +any advice will be appreciated",I would pull both pistons since when you have one out 90% of the job is done. If the one piston is good reuse it. New rings and hone that cylinder as well as the other cylinder. Which may or may not be damaged.,I would pull both pistons since when you have one out 90% of the job is done. If the one piston is good reuse it. New rings and hone that cylinder as well as the other cylinder. Which may or may not be damaged.,rember the guy with the shore cord hanging in the water next to you[ if keep in a slip] will also cause this electrolisis to your boat. poorly maintained shore power from the marina can cause this as well. quick tip inspect the condition of other boats in marine/out drives anodes or signs of sever corision on multible boats.multible stage chargers work well as they reduce amps as battery recovers dropping to a float stage this will prevent over charging aka boiling. may consider a charger compatible with glass mat/gel seal /sealed lead acid/ in the event you upgrade batteries latter.you might look into the ABYC website for complyence and recomendations. hope this helps not ment to confuse you probly have more questions than answers. sean +"i have a yamaha 70beto that is on a 24ft pontoon it is the original motor that came on it. It idles fine runs up to 5500 rpm on muffs in gear but in the water it wont go above 4200rpm. it all started last year when there was water in the one tank + +have done: +new plugs +new gas/tank/line/pump/filter +carbs are clean no gunk + +top cylinder runs leaner (white plug) bottom 2 are golden +havent checked compression this year but last year they were all equal dont remember the number",But on the trailer in gear is still neutral !!----The prop does not do any work.-----Check for spark on the top cylinder.----And yes check the compression again.,But on the trailer in gear is still neutral !!----The prop does not do any work.-----Check for spark on the top cylinder.----And yes check the compression again.,"boscoe said: + + + + Certainly it is possible to plumb a remote tank to a 3 HP Yamaha outboard motor. + +Click to expand... + + +thanks for your reply but when i press the bulb it wont go hard because fuel is coming out air intake +fo you know why thats happening" +"I've owned a well-maintained F4 for several years now, never had troubles keeping it running well. Launched boat 3 weeks ago, I tuned up and tested the motor beforehand, everything ran great. Motor ran flawlessly at launch. Following the advice of a local Yamaha mechanic, I shut off the fuel supply cock and let it run dry after I was safely on the mooring. + +Came back today to start the motor. Tried the auxiliary fuel tank first (full with fresh fuel), nothing after a dozen or more pulls. Tried the in-motor tank next, nothing. Not even a hiccup. Switched back to aux tank, no luck, and then back to in-motor tank, zilch. Cracked the carb bowl drain screw slightly, fresh fuel seeped out. + +Kill switch was definitely in the ""run"" position. Motor has brand new plug (gapped to specs), I had checked the gap between flywheel/ignitor, and as I said everything ran great last time I used it. + +What should I be checking here? Process of elimination?","Basic things first, if you havent already checked, pull a plug wire put a tester in between and see if it lights up when you pull. If you don't have one pull the entire plug and set it on the block with the plug wire still attached and look at the electrode and look for spark. If you have spark. Contine to the next plug. If you have spark on all plugs try spraying ether into the carb if it fires you have a fuel problem. If not you'll have to delve deeper into it.","Basic things first, if you havent already checked, pull a plug wire put a tester in between and see if it lights up when you pull. If you don't have one pull the entire plug and set it on the block with the plug wire still attached and look at the electrode and look for spark. If you have spark. Contine to the next plug. If you have spark on all plugs try spraying ether into the carb if it fires you have a fuel problem. If not you'll have to delve deeper into it.","I've used US Composites in the past. They have good products, good prices, and extremely helpful tech support. I called them and discussed what I was doing and they recommended the best products to use for my application. The one thing I learned is polyester resin is fine for glass-to-glass bonding. If you're bonding glass to wood, it needs to be epoxy resin. Also, Epoxy will not accept paint like polyester so keep that in mind for exposed glass surfaces. + +http://www.uscomposites.com/" +"I've owned a well-maintained F4 for several years now, never had troubles keeping it running well. Launched boat 3 weeks ago, I tuned up and tested the motor beforehand, everything ran great. Motor ran flawlessly at launch. Following the advice of a local Yamaha mechanic, I shut off the fuel supply cock and let it run dry after I was safely on the mooring. + +Came back today to start the motor. Tried the auxiliary fuel tank first (full with fresh fuel), nothing after a dozen or more pulls. Tried the in-motor tank next, nothing. Not even a hiccup. Switched back to aux tank, no luck, and then back to in-motor tank, zilch. Cracked the carb bowl drain screw slightly, fresh fuel seeped out. + +Kill switch was definitely in the ""run"" position. Motor has brand new plug (gapped to specs), I had checked the gap between flywheel/ignitor, and as I said everything ran great last time I used it. + +What should I be checking here? Process of elimination?","keeth said: + + + + Basic things first, if you havent already checked, pull a plug wire put a tester in between and see if it lights up when you pull. If you don't have one pull the entire plug and set it on the block with the plug wire still attached and look at the electrode and look for spark. If you have spark. Contine to the next plug. If you have spark on all plugs try spraying ether into the carb if it fires you have a fuel problem. If not you'll have to delve deeper into it. + +Click to expand... + + +I pulled the plug and tested, it does spark. The carb is getting fuel. Even though I cleaned the carb thoroughly before launching, my guess is that something is messed up in there. I pulled the carb and disassembled, everything looked squeaky clean except the outside of the throttle plate and carb throat had some reddish-brown deposits on it, must be fuel varnish? I'm amazed that could happen after running it only once, and running it dry when I finished. I pulled the intake pipe (manifold?) that runs from the carb to the motor. Lots of the same deposits in there, and the valve chamber and valve was also full of deposits. I cleaned all that as best I could with carb spray. Where is all that gunk from? I use fresh fuel every season, adding Yamaha's stabilizer and ""ring-free"" plus cleaner. + +Well, I doubt those deposits are preventing it from starting. I'll try going through the carb again, but geez, I just did that. I suppose some little bit of dirt might be clogging a jet somewhere. Just find it hard to believe that would happen after just literally about 15 minutes of use at the start of the season with a freshly cleaned carb. Fuel filter is new. + +At least this didn't happen on the start of a family trip or something. But still a pain in the ass, and I wish I understood what was going on.","keeth said: + + + + Basic things first, if you havent already checked, pull a plug wire put a tester in between and see if it lights up when you pull. If you don't have one pull the entire plug and set it on the block with the plug wire still attached and look at the electrode and look for spark. If you have spark. Contine to the next plug. If you have spark on all plugs try spraying ether into the carb if it fires you have a fuel problem. If not you'll have to delve deeper into it. + +Click to expand... + + +I pulled the plug and tested, it does spark. The carb is getting fuel. Even though I cleaned the carb thoroughly before launching, my guess is that something is messed up in there. I pulled the carb and disassembled, everything looked squeaky clean except the outside of the throttle plate and carb throat had some reddish-brown deposits on it, must be fuel varnish? I'm amazed that could happen after running it only once, and running it dry when I finished. I pulled the intake pipe (manifold?) that runs from the carb to the motor. Lots of the same deposits in there, and the valve chamber and valve was also full of deposits. I cleaned all that as best I could with carb spray. Where is all that gunk from? I use fresh fuel every season, adding Yamaha's stabilizer and ""ring-free"" plus cleaner. + +Well, I doubt those deposits are preventing it from starting. I'll try going through the carb again, but geez, I just did that. I suppose some little bit of dirt might be clogging a jet somewhere. Just find it hard to believe that would happen after just literally about 15 minutes of use at the start of the season with a freshly cleaned carb. Fuel filter is new. + +At least this didn't happen on the start of a family trip or something. But still a pain in the ass, and I wish I understood what was going on.","Replace the squeeze ball and make sure you are not sucking air....If problem continues, it might be time to service the VST and injectors." +"I've owned a well-maintained F4 for several years now, never had troubles keeping it running well. Launched boat 3 weeks ago, I tuned up and tested the motor beforehand, everything ran great. Motor ran flawlessly at launch. Following the advice of a local Yamaha mechanic, I shut off the fuel supply cock and let it run dry after I was safely on the mooring. + +Came back today to start the motor. Tried the auxiliary fuel tank first (full with fresh fuel), nothing after a dozen or more pulls. Tried the in-motor tank next, nothing. Not even a hiccup. Switched back to aux tank, no luck, and then back to in-motor tank, zilch. Cracked the carb bowl drain screw slightly, fresh fuel seeped out. + +Kill switch was definitely in the ""run"" position. Motor has brand new plug (gapped to specs), I had checked the gap between flywheel/ignitor, and as I said everything ran great last time I used it. + +What should I be checking here? Process of elimination?",Im not sure what the varnish is. I never use fuel additives until the last trip to winterize the fuel. Another thought i had is are you sure the plugs wires/coils are back in the right order. And try spraying some starter fluid or flammable brake clean in it and see if its starts for a second. That will really narrow down the places you need to look,Im not sure what the varnish is. I never use fuel additives until the last trip to winterize the fuel. Another thought i had is are you sure the plugs wires/coils are back in the right order. And try spraying some starter fluid or flammable brake clean in it and see if its starts for a second. That will really narrow down the places you need to look,"Yeah The old switches started giving out, I turned the power switch off and the light was off, come back 10 minutes later and notice with the switch off and light still on, so i flipped it back on and off again and the light went away. Go home and get up the next morning and notice light was back on and battery was pretty low... Thanks for the input everyone! Been dealing wiTh more expensive issues on the boat, hopefully I'm done for a little while cause my wallet has about had it. Supposed to be cool tomorrow and Thursday so if I get off work early enough I'll hop on it!" +"I've owned a well-maintained F4 for several years now, never had troubles keeping it running well. Launched boat 3 weeks ago, I tuned up and tested the motor beforehand, everything ran great. Motor ran flawlessly at launch. Following the advice of a local Yamaha mechanic, I shut off the fuel supply cock and let it run dry after I was safely on the mooring. + +Came back today to start the motor. Tried the auxiliary fuel tank first (full with fresh fuel), nothing after a dozen or more pulls. Tried the in-motor tank next, nothing. Not even a hiccup. Switched back to aux tank, no luck, and then back to in-motor tank, zilch. Cracked the carb bowl drain screw slightly, fresh fuel seeped out. + +Kill switch was definitely in the ""run"" position. Motor has brand new plug (gapped to specs), I had checked the gap between flywheel/ignitor, and as I said everything ran great last time I used it. + +What should I be checking here? Process of elimination?",After your tech said to shut off the fuel and let it run dry until it dies did he tell you to restart you should prime the engine again via squeezing the fuel bulb until resistance is felt to refill the engine's fuel system? Running an engine to stall with the fuel shut off if you are using non-ethanol gas and adding today's latest fuel stabilizers ALL THE TIME is not a good practice (as you are learning). Put it to bed wet.,After your tech said to shut off the fuel and let it run dry until it dies did he tell you to restart you should prime the engine again via squeezing the fuel bulb until resistance is felt to refill the engine's fuel system? Running an engine to stall with the fuel shut off if you are using non-ethanol gas and adding today's latest fuel stabilizers ALL THE TIME is not a good practice (as you are learning). Put it to bed wet.,"Ok, did a compression test. 125 psi in all three cylinders." +"I've owned a well-maintained F4 for several years now, never had troubles keeping it running well. Launched boat 3 weeks ago, I tuned up and tested the motor beforehand, everything ran great. Motor ran flawlessly at launch. Following the advice of a local Yamaha mechanic, I shut off the fuel supply cock and let it run dry after I was safely on the mooring. + +Came back today to start the motor. Tried the auxiliary fuel tank first (full with fresh fuel), nothing after a dozen or more pulls. Tried the in-motor tank next, nothing. Not even a hiccup. Switched back to aux tank, no luck, and then back to in-motor tank, zilch. Cracked the carb bowl drain screw slightly, fresh fuel seeped out. + +Kill switch was definitely in the ""run"" position. Motor has brand new plug (gapped to specs), I had checked the gap between flywheel/ignitor, and as I said everything ran great last time I used it. + +What should I be checking here? Process of elimination?","deepsea21 said: + + + + After your tech said to shut off the fuel and let it run dry until it dies did he tell you to restart you should prime the engine again via squeezing the fuel bulb until resistance is felt to refill the engine's fuel system? Running an engine to stall with the fuel shut off if you are using non-ethanol gas and adding today's latest fuel stabilizers ALL THE TIME is not a good practice (as you are learning). Put it to bed wet. + +Click to expand... + + +He did not say to prime. I did anyway, though, and then I switched to the internal tank thinking I might have a fuel supply problem with the external tank. And as I mentioned, the carb fuel bowl definitely had fuel in it. + +Unfortunately I can't get pure gas here in Maine, best I can do is E10. I never used to run it dry, figured it was fine with the stabilizer in there (as long as you run it every week or so at least). This was an old mechanic from what appears to be the best Yamaha shop in the area (all the lobstermen go there), and he said that the fuel in a carb bowl is exposed to lots of moisture and oxygen and he'd seen a lot of problems from that, so he always tells people to run it dry before leaving the boat. I just started doing that last fall, and now here I am with my first ever starting issues (probably just coincidence but it does make me wonder). + +Why do you say it's not a good practice? + +I'm going to clean out the carb (even though I just cleaned it pre-launch) and see if some spec. of dirt might have been clogging something. But it's weird that it ran great in pre-launch testing and also at launch time, but then 2 weeks later it's dead. Want to understand why.","deepsea21 said: + + + + After your tech said to shut off the fuel and let it run dry until it dies did he tell you to restart you should prime the engine again via squeezing the fuel bulb until resistance is felt to refill the engine's fuel system? Running an engine to stall with the fuel shut off if you are using non-ethanol gas and adding today's latest fuel stabilizers ALL THE TIME is not a good practice (as you are learning). Put it to bed wet. + +Click to expand... + + +He did not say to prime. I did anyway, though, and then I switched to the internal tank thinking I might have a fuel supply problem with the external tank. And as I mentioned, the carb fuel bowl definitely had fuel in it. + +Unfortunately I can't get pure gas here in Maine, best I can do is E10. I never used to run it dry, figured it was fine with the stabilizer in there (as long as you run it every week or so at least). This was an old mechanic from what appears to be the best Yamaha shop in the area (all the lobstermen go there), and he said that the fuel in a carb bowl is exposed to lots of moisture and oxygen and he'd seen a lot of problems from that, so he always tells people to run it dry before leaving the boat. I just started doing that last fall, and now here I am with my first ever starting issues (probably just coincidence but it does make me wonder). + +Why do you say it's not a good practice? + +I'm going to clean out the carb (even though I just cleaned it pre-launch) and see if some spec. of dirt might have been clogging something. But it's weird that it ran great in pre-launch testing and also at launch time, but then 2 weeks later it's dead. Want to understand why.","For other's reference, what I was missing was the tiny hole in the end of the pilot jet and the tiny holes in the side of the main jet...jobs for a very small needle after getting both out of the carb and cleaning the outside crud off with a wire wheel...works like a champ now." +"I've owned a well-maintained F4 for several years now, never had troubles keeping it running well. Launched boat 3 weeks ago, I tuned up and tested the motor beforehand, everything ran great. Motor ran flawlessly at launch. Following the advice of a local Yamaha mechanic, I shut off the fuel supply cock and let it run dry after I was safely on the mooring. + +Came back today to start the motor. Tried the auxiliary fuel tank first (full with fresh fuel), nothing after a dozen or more pulls. Tried the in-motor tank next, nothing. Not even a hiccup. Switched back to aux tank, no luck, and then back to in-motor tank, zilch. Cracked the carb bowl drain screw slightly, fresh fuel seeped out. + +Kill switch was definitely in the ""run"" position. Motor has brand new plug (gapped to specs), I had checked the gap between flywheel/ignitor, and as I said everything ran great last time I used it. + +What should I be checking here? Process of elimination?","I disassembled the carb. last night (which was still squeaky clean), sprayed cleaner through all the holes, reassembled, and the motor started. Seemed like it ran a little rough at first, but once it warmed up it smoothed out. I'll run it again today before putting it back in the boat. I'm still not sure what's going on. Is it possible that if you run the carb dry like a did after launching, then let it sit for a couple weeks, that some residual gas might have been in there, turned gummy, and blocked something? Or maybe just by sheer bad luck a speck of dirt or something was in there? + +In any case, I think I'm going to stop running her dry when I leave the boat. Maybe that was bad advice.","I disassembled the carb. last night (which was still squeaky clean), sprayed cleaner through all the holes, reassembled, and the motor started. Seemed like it ran a little rough at first, but once it warmed up it smoothed out. I'll run it again today before putting it back in the boat. I'm still not sure what's going on. Is it possible that if you run the carb dry like a did after launching, then let it sit for a couple weeks, that some residual gas might have been in there, turned gummy, and blocked something? Or maybe just by sheer bad luck a speck of dirt or something was in there? + +In any case, I think I'm going to stop running her dry when I leave the boat. Maybe that was bad advice.","Sounds like a an issue with low speed settings or timing. Those C40e were pretty bullet proof however, they were designed to be commercial engines that were loud and never idled ""clean"". DO NOT THIN FUEL BELOW OR ABOVE THE MANU SPEC! (Dont mean to yell but always follow protocol) Check the spark and make sure you are getting good spark that jumps at least 9mm. If that's good go over the fuel system and set idle screws at 1.25 turns off bottom. When you rebuilt the carbs did you make sure the floats were level to spec? After going over the fuel system check the spark with a light and make sure she is firing at the correct time. I just went through this with a rectifier. The #2 and #3 cyls were firing on each other's time. It was the rectifier that while charging was messing the rest of the ign system up." +"I've owned a well-maintained F4 for several years now, never had troubles keeping it running well. Launched boat 3 weeks ago, I tuned up and tested the motor beforehand, everything ran great. Motor ran flawlessly at launch. Following the advice of a local Yamaha mechanic, I shut off the fuel supply cock and let it run dry after I was safely on the mooring. + +Came back today to start the motor. Tried the auxiliary fuel tank first (full with fresh fuel), nothing after a dozen or more pulls. Tried the in-motor tank next, nothing. Not even a hiccup. Switched back to aux tank, no luck, and then back to in-motor tank, zilch. Cracked the carb bowl drain screw slightly, fresh fuel seeped out. + +Kill switch was definitely in the ""run"" position. Motor has brand new plug (gapped to specs), I had checked the gap between flywheel/ignitor, and as I said everything ran great last time I used it. + +What should I be checking here? Process of elimination?","Ran the engine again this morning, dialed in the idle speed with a tach., then ran it in the boat for a short trip. Everything's fine now. + +Although maybe it's just coincidence, I'm not going to run the carb. dry anymore until the end of the season because I've never had an issue like this in the 4 years I've owned the motor. Seems like with a carb. like mine with a float bowl, when you run it dry it leaves a little fuel in the bottom of the bowl, and that turns gummy pretty quickly. Maybe that caused something to get clogged up somewhere. In any case I think keeping the carb bowl full might be a better bet. I'll try to run the motor at least once a week.","Ran the engine again this morning, dialed in the idle speed with a tach., then ran it in the boat for a short trip. Everything's fine now. + +Although maybe it's just coincidence, I'm not going to run the carb. dry anymore until the end of the season because I've never had an issue like this in the 4 years I've owned the motor. Seems like with a carb. like mine with a float bowl, when you run it dry it leaves a little fuel in the bottom of the bowl, and that turns gummy pretty quickly. Maybe that caused something to get clogged up somewhere. In any case I think keeping the carb bowl full might be a better bet. I'll try to run the motor at least once a week.","Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard, 'n Thank you for yer service,.... + +Are you usin' the Gale controller,..?? +If so, ya need a Merc controller, 'n cables,.... + +Post a picture of the front of the motor, so We can see yer steerin' cable set-up,...." +"I've owned a well-maintained F4 for several years now, never had troubles keeping it running well. Launched boat 3 weeks ago, I tuned up and tested the motor beforehand, everything ran great. Motor ran flawlessly at launch. Following the advice of a local Yamaha mechanic, I shut off the fuel supply cock and let it run dry after I was safely on the mooring. + +Came back today to start the motor. Tried the auxiliary fuel tank first (full with fresh fuel), nothing after a dozen or more pulls. Tried the in-motor tank next, nothing. Not even a hiccup. Switched back to aux tank, no luck, and then back to in-motor tank, zilch. Cracked the carb bowl drain screw slightly, fresh fuel seeped out. + +Kill switch was definitely in the ""run"" position. Motor has brand new plug (gapped to specs), I had checked the gap between flywheel/ignitor, and as I said everything ran great last time I used it. + +What should I be checking here? Process of elimination?","Megunticook said: + + + + Ran the engine again this morning, dialed in the idle speed with a tach., then ran it in the boat for a short trip. Everything's fine now. + +Although maybe it's just coincidence, I'm not going to run the carb. dry anymore until the end of the season because I've never had an issue like this in the 4 years I've owned the motor. Seems like with a carb. like mine with a float bowl, when you run it dry it leaves a little fuel in the bottom of the bowl, and that turns gummy pretty quickly. Maybe that caused something to get clogged up somewhere. In any case I think keeping the carb bowl full might be a better bet. I'll try to run the motor at least once a week. + +Click to expand... + + +You are dealing with the evils of ethanol gas which is why most every quality marina only offers non-ethanol regular gas (and even chain gas stations in my area have now added a non-ethanol gas pump. As you only have access to ethanol tainted gas, add the Green Marine STABIL additive to you gas ALL THE TIME... Not just for storage. You should be fine with that putting the engine to bed wet throughout your boating season and as you mentioned, run it until it dies with the fuel shut off before putting the boat to bed for the winter. Ethanol creates all kinds of problems throughout the fuel system as it sits and gets gummy and and then that gum breaks lose under vibration and clogs things over and over and over again. Run a google search in you area for non-ethanol gas and see if you can find a source. Non-ethanol gas have popped up everywhere because of the problems ethanol gas creates.","Megunticook said: + + + + Ran the engine again this morning, dialed in the idle speed with a tach., then ran it in the boat for a short trip. Everything's fine now. + +Although maybe it's just coincidence, I'm not going to run the carb. dry anymore until the end of the season because I've never had an issue like this in the 4 years I've owned the motor. Seems like with a carb. like mine with a float bowl, when you run it dry it leaves a little fuel in the bottom of the bowl, and that turns gummy pretty quickly. Maybe that caused something to get clogged up somewhere. In any case I think keeping the carb bowl full might be a better bet. I'll try to run the motor at least once a week. + +Click to expand... + + +You are dealing with the evils of ethanol gas which is why most every quality marina only offers non-ethanol regular gas (and even chain gas stations in my area have now added a non-ethanol gas pump. As you only have access to ethanol tainted gas, add the Green Marine STABIL additive to you gas ALL THE TIME... Not just for storage. You should be fine with that putting the engine to bed wet throughout your boating season and as you mentioned, run it until it dies with the fuel shut off before putting the boat to bed for the winter. Ethanol creates all kinds of problems throughout the fuel system as it sits and gets gummy and and then that gum breaks lose under vibration and clogs things over and over and over again. Run a google search in you area for non-ethanol gas and see if you can find a source. Non-ethanol gas have popped up everywhere because of the problems ethanol gas creates.",I have made sure everything is tight to the battery terminals and have looked around for any corrosion on the wires but haven't found any issues. The radio does act a little funny when I play it in my driveway as in it only plays through 4 of the 6 speakers. When the radio is turned off the screen does look to have a black wave through it (like an ink stain or something) but when the radio is on I can see everything clearly. +"HI well the trailer blew a tire on the highway last week and i didn't want to leave my 2014 yamaha 8hp four stoke unlocked on the boat. + +unfortunately i laid the motor down on the wrong side and oil got into the carb and cylinders. + +took the carb apart, took out the small screws including the low idle one. (two screws in the bowl cavity then a 3rd one under neath one of them) carb cleaner sprayed liberally, cleaned the spark plugs. No start. No burp. +Yes I am getting spark. Yes gas is going into the bowl. +when i manually lift the float and blow air into the gas intake i'm getting air coming out but not much) +when i prime the gas the bulb is solid. +emergency lanyard kill switch is in place. + +History of this motor is it's basically new. very very few hours. +haven't ran it for a few years. Left gas in the carb when i put it away. + +Manual start. + +any ideas?",Mat have to drain any oil out of cylinders.-----Tried a bit of quickstart to see if it will as least sputter a bit ?,Mat have to drain any oil out of cylinders.-----Tried a bit of quickstart to see if it will as least sputter a bit ?,By your screen name I would say you have a Grady White. Is the tank in your boat Fiberglass? +"HI well the trailer blew a tire on the highway last week and i didn't want to leave my 2014 yamaha 8hp four stoke unlocked on the boat. + +unfortunately i laid the motor down on the wrong side and oil got into the carb and cylinders. + +took the carb apart, took out the small screws including the low idle one. (two screws in the bowl cavity then a 3rd one under neath one of them) carb cleaner sprayed liberally, cleaned the spark plugs. No start. No burp. +Yes I am getting spark. Yes gas is going into the bowl. +when i manually lift the float and blow air into the gas intake i'm getting air coming out but not much) +when i prime the gas the bulb is solid. +emergency lanyard kill switch is in place. + +History of this motor is it's basically new. very very few hours. +haven't ran it for a few years. Left gas in the carb when i put it away. + +Manual start. + +any ideas?","hi i pulled the plugs and pulled the cord cylinders move find and are not squirting oil out the plug hole +that said i'll try your start suggestion","hi i pulled the plugs and pulled the cord cylinders move find and are not squirting oil out the plug hole +that said i'll try your start suggestion","Look at your ground, it is usually the first one to corrode." +"HI well the trailer blew a tire on the highway last week and i didn't want to leave my 2014 yamaha 8hp four stoke unlocked on the boat. + +unfortunately i laid the motor down on the wrong side and oil got into the carb and cylinders. + +took the carb apart, took out the small screws including the low idle one. (two screws in the bowl cavity then a 3rd one under neath one of them) carb cleaner sprayed liberally, cleaned the spark plugs. No start. No burp. +Yes I am getting spark. Yes gas is going into the bowl. +when i manually lift the float and blow air into the gas intake i'm getting air coming out but not much) +when i prime the gas the bulb is solid. +emergency lanyard kill switch is in place. + +History of this motor is it's basically new. very very few hours. +haven't ran it for a few years. Left gas in the carb when i put it away. + +Manual start. + +any ideas?","there are two chambers in the carb +the chamber where the float is and then on the top of the carb anther cavitity. covered by a plate and rubber washer +if i take off the plate and washer should i see gas?","there are two chambers in the carb +the chamber where the float is and then on the top of the carb anther cavitity. covered by a plate and rubber washer +if i take off the plate and washer should i see gas?",You better change it! It is totally damage. +"HI well the trailer blew a tire on the highway last week and i didn't want to leave my 2014 yamaha 8hp four stoke unlocked on the boat. + +unfortunately i laid the motor down on the wrong side and oil got into the carb and cylinders. + +took the carb apart, took out the small screws including the low idle one. (two screws in the bowl cavity then a 3rd one under neath one of them) carb cleaner sprayed liberally, cleaned the spark plugs. No start. No burp. +Yes I am getting spark. Yes gas is going into the bowl. +when i manually lift the float and blow air into the gas intake i'm getting air coming out but not much) +when i prime the gas the bulb is solid. +emergency lanyard kill switch is in place. + +History of this motor is it's basically new. very very few hours. +haven't ran it for a few years. Left gas in the carb when i put it away. + +Manual start. + +any ideas?",I think that might be part of the starting / choke system.----An 8 HP motor only needs one float bowl for fuel.----,I think that might be part of the starting / choke system.----An 8 HP motor only needs one float bowl for fuel.----,"Chadbud said: + + + + I am not. The drain plug takes a socket screw.. from now on I’m definitely going to pull that plug when the boat is out of water. I thought it wouldn’t matter because the water just sits in the bilge! + +When I pull the boat out of underground dry storage next season, I plan to re-seal every bit of the hull as well as get a new boat cover. + +I was considering having the carpet redone and adding some kind of silicone spray sealant to the deck before the new carpet is laid down.. although this would be expensive and my gut is telling me it’s probably not worth it.. any thoughts? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... That sounds like an Extremely slippery deck,....... I've never seen a sprayable silicone sealant,.... + +I'd worry more about sealing the bilge,.... Ya want everything but the bilge, to drain into the pumpable bilge,...." +"I would like to get some opinions on an issue I am dealing with. I have a 2001 Mercury (Yamaha Powerhead) that will not run at full throttle. It started last year when the boat would idle, but not get on plane. I took it to the local shop. They said that ethanol had damaged the fuel lines and clogged the fuel filter. After supposed repairs, I took it out, and it did not have full power. I took it back to the shop, and they told me the injectors needed to be cleaned. They sent them off to be cleaned and reinstalled them. The next trip to the lake, the boat ran worse than ever. I took it back and they told me that the VST was ""rusted out"", and needed to be replaced. To the tune of $1,900.00. After doing some research, a friend and I pulled the VST. The filter on the bottom of the fuel pump was more than half blocked with debris. The tank also had some corrosion from the water that had gotten in it. I cleaned the fuel pump filter, cleaned the corrosion from the tank with carb cleaner, replaced all fuel lines, and installed a fuel water separator. I took it to the lake this past weekend, and it would run fine to about 3/4 throttle. Twice, it even ran at full throttle, and stayed there until I stopped. As soon as I tried to run it again, it would not run at FOT. Normally, I would think the injectors needed cleaning, but the boat had only been run one time since they were cleaned. Could this be an issue with the fuel pump n the VST? Would replacing the fuel pump with a new one possibly fix the issue? And if so, are the Sierra Marine fuel pumps any good, or should I go with the OEM pump? Thanks in advance.","Four strokes are not my specialty so my suggestions will be limited. However, most fuel related components are of no consequence to the motor being 2 or 4 stroke. With that said, comsidering the extent of corrosion you've stated I would replace all fuel related components....fuel lines, primer bulb, filter, pump, etc. And you might need to go as far as pulling the tank to inspect if replacing components doesn't solve issue. + +In my opinion for replacing parts with Yam or aftermarket...parts like filters and fuel lines that have no mechanical properties I will use aftermarket. A significantly important part as a fuel pump I use Yam.","Four strokes are not my specialty so my suggestions will be limited. However, most fuel related components are of no consequence to the motor being 2 or 4 stroke. With that said, comsidering the extent of corrosion you've stated I would replace all fuel related components....fuel lines, primer bulb, filter, pump, etc. And you might need to go as far as pulling the tank to inspect if replacing components doesn't solve issue. + +In my opinion for replacing parts with Yam or aftermarket...parts like filters and fuel lines that have no mechanical properties I will use aftermarket. A significantly important part as a fuel pump I use Yam.","makomark said: + + + + light brown is likely the TAN wire and usually goes to the warning horn...and I'd guess what you call a circle connection is a bullet connector... + +assuming the accessories in question are feed by the fuse block, do you have battery voltage at the input to the fuse block? (sometimes they use a MAIN switch that will isolate the fuse block...honestly its been a while since i was in one that old...if you have the +12VDC at the input to the fuse block and the fuses are good, then you need to make sure the ground wire(s) make it back to the battery. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the info. I'm pretty sure the horn had both wires connected, it is right under the dash as well. I didn't even think to check the fuse block for voltage, I'll get out the multimeter and check it out. There is a 12v power plug I could check for voltage as well. Will there be one main ground running back to the battery? There are two black bullet connectors I connected to the negative terminal when I hooked up the battery." +"So I’m working on a 3 cylinder 70hp 2 stroke that initially wouldn’t run. After a compression test and a spark test I verified it wasn’t getting fuel. Pulling carbs for a good cleaning showed clogged jets. Once reinstalled she fired right up on the hose. Fine tuned for a decent idle and then headed to the lake. Once in the water it fired immediately and idled ok but with a slight lean pop. Tried to adjust but with no success. Under throttle it will die about 1/2 throttle. The only way it’ll accept throttling is if I partially cover the center carb to enrichen the fuel. The intake velocity is very weak compared to the other 2 carbs. I plan to inspect the reeds. Question is what, if not reeds, will cause this? Compression shows 120 across the board. I’ve also noticed anaerobic sealer at the crankcase seam so I know it’s been apart. Obviously I’ll check for a vacuum leak there. Anything else I’m overlooking?",So I’ve found 2 bad recirculating check valves,So I’ve found 2 bad recirculating check valves,Sorry I meant to say than the rack I took out. I have found that the rack gears had a little nicer transition/were smoother when changing steering direction from one side to the other since there is very little play in the gears while the rotary cable has a very slight bind when you change direction as the play in the cable winding is taken up from one side to the other . Other than that the system seems quite smooth. +"After changing out the Racor water-separator filter and the in-line fuel filter under the cowling...ran the engine on the muffs for about 10 minutes...checked for fuel leak. Good water flow from pee-hole and thru hub exhaust. Upon removing the muffs, happened to touch the housing just above the cavitation plate (where the plastic nut insert for the anode is located)-almost too hot to hold onto. I have never had the occasion to touch that area after running on the muffs...IS THIS NORMAL??? Thanking you in advance...John Castelluccio, Jr. Southeast Louisiana---Lower Bayou State","Muffs are for flushing only, not extended running. Your engine will eventually over heat on Muffs.","Muffs are for flushing only, not extended running. Your engine will eventually over heat on Muffs.","Okay on the Merc Forum. There is a guy on the Honda forum named Jimmy Dixon who is an expert with small Honda outboards. Not sure what he knows about Merc's, but it's worth a try. His e-mail is [email protected]. Tell him CHawk recommended that you contact him." +"After changing out the Racor water-separator filter and the in-line fuel filter under the cowling...ran the engine on the muffs for about 10 minutes...checked for fuel leak. Good water flow from pee-hole and thru hub exhaust. Upon removing the muffs, happened to touch the housing just above the cavitation plate (where the plastic nut insert for the anode is located)-almost too hot to hold onto. I have never had the occasion to touch that area after running on the muffs...IS THIS NORMAL??? Thanking you in advance...John Castelluccio, Jr. Southeast Louisiana---Lower Bayou State","What Chris said. Never run an engine (especially that size) on muffs for more than 2-3 minutes and if you've loaded the boat on a trailer and towed it home, you can run it for 2-3 minutes on muffs but the engine has cooled to the point the thermostat has closed and it won't open again for a full flush on muffs. If you are able to put the engine on muffs within a few minutes of putting it on a trailer or hoisting it on a davit when the engine is still HOT, then it's worth it and actually better than any flush port it may have to hook a hose up to.","What Chris said. Never run an engine (especially that size) on muffs for more than 2-3 minutes and if you've loaded the boat on a trailer and towed it home, you can run it for 2-3 minutes on muffs but the engine has cooled to the point the thermostat has closed and it won't open again for a full flush on muffs. If you are able to put the engine on muffs within a few minutes of putting it on a trailer or hoisting it on a davit when the engine is still HOT, then it's worth it and actually better than any flush port it may have to hook a hose up to.","Thank you - very herlpful. I thought about heating it but was concerned about a fire issue. +Best thing is the motor is UP and I can bring it somewhere rather than having someone come to me. $$$ +I suspect the issue is beyond my intermediate expertise since I there's no obvious bad wires in sight. +Final question: Based on what I did to raise the motor, woiuld that point to a black or Red wire issue from battery to the motor?" +95 yamaha 50 2 stroke idles fine. When running wide open it will die after a minute or two. Starts right back up and will do it again. It has plenty of ventilation at the tank. When i kick up the warm up lever a bit it will run fine WOT. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks,sounds like a weak fuel pump,sounds like a weak fuel pump,"Have you looked through these.................... + +http://greatlakesskipper.com/catalo...=relevance&p=3&q=bilge+pump+switch+&x=10&y=14" +95 yamaha 50 2 stroke idles fine. When running wide open it will die after a minute or two. Starts right back up and will do it again. It has plenty of ventilation at the tank. When i kick up the warm up lever a bit it will run fine WOT. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks,"I may be wrong but that ""warm up"" lever should actually be a ""start lever"" that increases fuel to the engine and also actuates a choke at the same time. If it runs wide open with that lever raised with no problem you are running in a choked state that helps an engine that is running too lean. Buy 3-4 cans of carb cleaner (carb cleaner is cheap - Yamaha service is expensive) pull all carbs, break the down and blast away through every orifice you can find. Remove the tiny brass fuel jet in each carb and look through them, blast carb cleaner through the jets and see of they are totally clean. Any partial clog in a fuel jet will cause this. If there is anything carb cleaner won't clean from those jets get a piece of bare COPPER wire and run it through the jet orifice (copper is softer than brass so you wont score the inside of the brass orifice and create a scratch that invites future buildup). I say you have carbs that need cleaned.","I may be wrong but that ""warm up"" lever should actually be a ""start lever"" that increases fuel to the engine and also actuates a choke at the same time. If it runs wide open with that lever raised with no problem you are running in a choked state that helps an engine that is running too lean. Buy 3-4 cans of carb cleaner (carb cleaner is cheap - Yamaha service is expensive) pull all carbs, break the down and blast away through every orifice you can find. Remove the tiny brass fuel jet in each carb and look through them, blast carb cleaner through the jets and see of they are totally clean. Any partial clog in a fuel jet will cause this. If there is anything carb cleaner won't clean from those jets get a piece of bare COPPER wire and run it through the jet orifice (copper is softer than brass so you wont score the inside of the brass orifice and create a scratch that invites future buildup). I say you have carbs that need cleaned.",I watched some use a crank bungee . When sque wed you bleed the line. My wife’s friend says use a air compressor to bleed breaks. He thinks air in the line because the breaks don’t lock at all +I have a semi clear tub that runs from the foot of my motor to my center console. This tube has water coming out of it under my center console. It comes out at a steady stream when the motor is above 1/2 throttle. It only drips when the motor is at idle. Is this clear tube supposed to be hooked up to something at my console?,Sounds like a water tube for a speedo.,Sounds like a water tube for a speedo.,Blown gasket. Time for a new kit. +I have a semi clear tub that runs from the foot of my motor to my center console. This tube has water coming out of it under my center console. It comes out at a steady stream when the motor is above 1/2 throttle. It only drips when the motor is at idle. Is this clear tube supposed to be hooked up to something at my console?,speedometer?,speedometer?,"I too have a Volvo I/O. Simply follow the manual that came with the motor. There are a couple of blue plastic thumb plugs on each side, remove them, everything drains. That’s All tha manual calls for. +However, I too remove the hoses at the lowest level to drain, though it’s not required. It doesn’t matter if some water is retained, as long as it has some room to expand when it freezes, it won’t break anything. +Maybe I’m old school, but I believe there is some value in putting antifreeze into the water pump, not for freeze protection, but to evacuate the air, & prevent rust. If you do that, be sure to get the “pink” that is labelled for metal applications. There are two formulas of pink, & one is only for plastic, it contains no rust inhibitors, & states such on the container." +Hello all. New to the Forum. First question. Running a new to me F8 on ears I see water coming out of the shift rod passage. Is this normal when applying water pressure to the intakes?,"F8's were produced in a lot of different years....without knowing model/year I'll have to guess. If by ""shift rod passage"" you mean where the shift shaft and drive shaft join, and you're seeing water coming out...no, that's not normal. There is a water tube that runs from water pump up through mid section and up to block. Water doesn't escape this tube, it escapes through intended exits via cooling system. + +Is there water coming out of tell-tale?","F8's were produced in a lot of different years....without knowing model/year I'll have to guess. If by ""shift rod passage"" you mean where the shift shaft and drive shaft join, and you're seeing water coming out...no, that's not normal. There is a water tube that runs from water pump up through mid section and up to block. Water doesn't escape this tube, it escapes through intended exits via cooling system. + +Is there water coming out of tell-tale?","No, you shouldn't need 2 mechanical fuel pumps, regardless of the extra fuel/water separator filter. I would take it off and pump the button on the bottom of the pump housing. If it makes a wheezing sound when you pump it, you should replace it (or at least replace the diaphragm inside)." +Hello all. New to the Forum. First question. Running a new to me F8 on ears I see water coming out of the shift rod passage. Is this normal when applying water pressure to the intakes?,"Going further with this, yes, good stream from the tell tale. The water is actually coming out further up on the leg. Removing the plastic shroud below the power head reveals two holes below the opening that exposes the shaft. Water is coming out of those holes and running down to where the shift rod connects to the gear case. + +Two things come to mind. 1. The robber grommet on the water pump housing is worn (stretched) allowing some water to bypass the tube. 2. The tibe is loose at the top connection to the power head. + +Your thoughts? + + + + +ClassicAQ said: + + + + F8's were produced in a lot of different years....without knowing model/year I'll have to guess. If by ""shift rod passage"" you mean where the shift shaft and drive shaft join, and you're seeing water coming out...no, that's not normal. There is a water tube that runs from water pump up through mid section and up to block. Water doesn't escape this tube, it escapes through intended exits via cooling system. + +Is there water coming out of tell-tale? + +Click to expand...","Going further with this, yes, good stream from the tell tale. The water is actually coming out further up on the leg. Removing the plastic shroud below the power head reveals two holes below the opening that exposes the shaft. Water is coming out of those holes and running down to where the shift rod connects to the gear case. + +Two things come to mind. 1. The robber grommet on the water pump housing is worn (stretched) allowing some water to bypass the tube. 2. The tibe is loose at the top connection to the power head. + +Your thoughts? + + + + +ClassicAQ said: + + + + F8's were produced in a lot of different years....without knowing model/year I'll have to guess. If by ""shift rod passage"" you mean where the shift shaft and drive shaft join, and you're seeing water coming out...no, that's not normal. There is a water tube that runs from water pump up through mid section and up to block. Water doesn't escape this tube, it escapes through intended exits via cooling system. + +Is there water coming out of tell-tale? + +Click to expand...","pulled both mechanical fuel pumps, both failed vac. leakdown test. Replaced and running good . Pumps only 10 months old. Yamaha factory parts." +Hello all. New to the Forum. First question. Running a new to me F8 on ears I see water coming out of the shift rod passage. Is this normal when applying water pressure to the intakes?,"I have a semi clear tube that runs from the foot of my motor to my center console. This tube has water coming out of it inside of my center console. Is this tube supposed to be hooked up to something like a tach or gauge or alarm? + +I also have poor water flow at low rpms and the temp alarm will go off if I idle real slow for more than 3-5 minutes. I plan to replace poppit valves but I am really confuse about the tube that has coming out of it at my console.. Any help is appreciated.","I have a semi clear tube that runs from the foot of my motor to my center console. This tube has water coming out of it inside of my center console. Is this tube supposed to be hooked up to something like a tach or gauge or alarm? + +I also have poor water flow at low rpms and the temp alarm will go off if I idle real slow for more than 3-5 minutes. I plan to replace poppit valves but I am really confuse about the tube that has coming out of it at my console.. Any help is appreciated.",Normally the throttle controls and harness go with the engine the steering is universal. +Hello all. New to the Forum. First question. Running a new to me F8 on ears I see water coming out of the shift rod passage. Is this normal when applying water pressure to the intakes?,1998 200 HP Yamaha Saltwater Series OX66 motor,1998 200 HP Yamaha Saltwater Series OX66 motor,Check the linkage between the carburetors and the oil pump. A plastic clip is known to get brittle with age and break. In which case the oil pump defaults to the maximum setting. +"I just purchased a new 25 HP Yamaha outboard, short shaft. I was told by the dealer that the power trim/tilt feature was not available from Yamaha for the short shaft motor. My question is, can I purchase the power trim/tilt mechanism and the multi function tiller handle from Yamaha, and have it installed on the short shaft motor?",There are 8 different versions of the F25 available. Is it too much trouble to state your specific model?,There are 8 different versions of the F25 available. Is it too much trouble to state your specific model?,"Donald A, Have a evinrude 115 hp motor, no spark, hasn't been run in 5 years, any ideas ?," +"I just purchased a new 25 HP Yamaha outboard, short shaft. I was told by the dealer that the power trim/tilt feature was not available from Yamaha for the short shaft motor. My question is, can I purchase the power trim/tilt mechanism and the multi function tiller handle from Yamaha, and have it installed on the short shaft motor?",F25SWHC. Short shaft tiller handle model with electric start and manual start.,F25SWHC. Short shaft tiller handle model with electric start and manual start.,"There is always a way,you just have to find te way." +"I just purchased a new 25 HP Yamaha outboard, short shaft. I was told by the dealer that the power trim/tilt feature was not available from Yamaha for the short shaft motor. My question is, can I purchase the power trim/tilt mechanism and the multi function tiller handle from Yamaha, and have it installed on the short shaft motor?","The multi-function tiller handle will not interface with the F25SWHC model. The M/F tiller handle works with the remote controlled F25 models only. + +You will find that it is impractical to try and install a power trim and tilt unit on a model not intended to have it. Too many expensive parts needed and a lot of labour. + +Maybe consider an aftermarket power trim and tilt device between the motor and the transom. + +https://www.boatownersworld.com/cmc-pt-35.html","The multi-function tiller handle will not interface with the F25SWHC model. The M/F tiller handle works with the remote controlled F25 models only. + +You will find that it is impractical to try and install a power trim and tilt unit on a model not intended to have it. Too many expensive parts needed and a lot of labour. + +Maybe consider an aftermarket power trim and tilt device between the motor and the transom. + +https://www.boatownersworld.com/cmc-pt-35.html","The cost is 125.00 you will have to pull the air horn and send it in. We should have parts mfg in a couple of weeks. If you want more info call me at the shop monday 8:00 am to further discuss. I can tell you i just got fed up with the hard starting and this fixed the problem right now. This is a cnc machined and laser cut choke that will not fail you unlike the electric choke. I was willing to buy a new carb until i got the price and that cured that idea. I would have to guess that even if you do get it started it like to die when put in gear. However once you do get it warmed up runs great all day. I'am heading out for spring chinnok fishing this morning in portland oregon so keep that in mind when you call. I don't currently have a visa machine yet but if I keep getting e-mail like your I will get one. Thanks for the interest in this new product. + +scott +ALLIED SCREW MACHINE WORKS +BORING,OR" +"I just purchased a new 25 HP Yamaha outboard, short shaft. I was told by the dealer that the power trim/tilt feature was not available from Yamaha for the short shaft motor. My question is, can I purchase the power trim/tilt mechanism and the multi function tiller handle from Yamaha, and have it installed on the short shaft motor?",Thanks for the info boscoe.,Thanks for the info boscoe.,"Yes right guy. +This is Boat Electric's own control board. + +MP stands for metering pump-espar fuel metering pump + +All you need to get the heater going should be main 12v POS. and NEG., fuel metering pump, and apply 12v+ to whatever goes to the yellow wire on the heater side of the square/ oval plug that seperates the heater from the control board. I assume your unit has an internal water pump. If it has an external pump then it must be connected or the heater will not start. If you need any more assistance I can try to find the schematics, but it will take alot of digging through piles of old paperwork in boxes, so I hope this gets you going! Let me know how you make out." +"How do you disconnect the shift rod for a impeller change ?? + +I just bought a 1983 Mariner 15M,. Thanks to the help of the guys here, I found out both the year and it's a Yamaha. Excellent . The tell tale does not pee at low idle. And I have no idea of age of the impeller , so it has to be changed . I checked the # of an aftermarket impeller for my Mariner, then the # of Yamaha .It was easy to get the impeller a the local Yamaha dealer. + +I have done impellers on old Mercs, but they were painted black.","Is the shift shaft and drive shaft connected by a barrel nut? If so, unlock the nuts on both sides of barrel nut then turn barrel nut up until the 2 shafts disengage. If I remember correctly, gear should be in neutral due to the lack of working space if in reverse or forward.","Is the shift shaft and drive shaft connected by a barrel nut? If so, unlock the nuts on both sides of barrel nut then turn barrel nut up until the 2 shafts disengage. If I remember correctly, gear should be in neutral due to the lack of working space if in reverse or forward.",never again on the re carpet....my last truck and a new one have no carpet...my rule now is if you cant hose a truck out you aint got a truck...same will apply to a new boat if i ever have to buy one.. +"How do you disconnect the shift rod for a impeller change ?? + +I just bought a 1983 Mariner 15M,. Thanks to the help of the guys here, I found out both the year and it's a Yamaha. Excellent . The tell tale does not pee at low idle. And I have no idea of age of the impeller , so it has to be changed . I checked the # of an aftermarket impeller for my Mariner, then the # of Yamaha .It was easy to get the impeller a the local Yamaha dealer. + +I have done impellers on old Mercs, but they were painted black.","As I recall there is more clearance available when the motor is shifted into reverse. + +Hold the coupling nut from turning. Barely loosen the jam nut. Turn the coupling nut away from the jam nut until the two rods separate. Remove the lower unit. + +Reverse for reassembly. Don't mess with the shift mechanism while the lower unit is removed. + +Repeat, don't mess with the shift mechanism while the lower unit is removed.","As I recall there is more clearance available when the motor is shifted into reverse. + +Hold the coupling nut from turning. Barely loosen the jam nut. Turn the coupling nut away from the jam nut until the two rods separate. Remove the lower unit. + +Reverse for reassembly. Don't mess with the shift mechanism while the lower unit is removed. + +Repeat, don't mess with the shift mechanism while the lower unit is removed.","Muffs are for flushing only, not extended running. Your engine will eventually over heat on Muffs." +"Hi - I have a Yam 2000yr 90hp 2 stroke outboard and anytime I am going full throttle (really not even full, more like 3/4) the alarm starts going off. It takes about 5 minutes of turning the boat off for it to finally go off. I feel like there is just something tripping it maybe? Because it never goes off if just trolling/cruising, it is the same scenario every time of going faster. There should be no reason I can't go fast for less than 20 seconds at a time. I use oil mix since its a 2 stroke. Is this maybe a bad t-stat? I have no clue so any help would be appreciated. Thank you.","Do you have a yamaha tach gauge? If so, the gauge has visual alerts for low oil and high temp. Look at gauge. If you don't have gauge then it's a guessing game. Easiest to to first rule out is oil....verify main tank is full. If it is then safe to assume it's the high temp alarm. Question is, is the alarm tripping because of overheating or because of bad thermosensor. Test sensors.","Do you have a yamaha tach gauge? If so, the gauge has visual alerts for low oil and high temp. Look at gauge. If you don't have gauge then it's a guessing game. Easiest to to first rule out is oil....verify main tank is full. If it is then safe to assume it's the high temp alarm. Question is, is the alarm tripping because of overheating or because of bad thermosensor. Test sensors.","Southpaw84 said: + + + + Would this also cause it to leak while the motor is running and not tilted up? If I don’t tilt the motor and run it on earmuffs it leaks oil out right where you can see in the pictures + +Click to expand... + + +Not sure what ""this"" is that you're referring to. If the cause of the oil leak is from that which contains the oil (reservoir, hoses), then it wouldn't matter the tilt angle of engine or whether it's on or off, it will just continue to leak from xyz. + +Is the bottom of the pan (lower cowling) covered with oil? When the mechanic/previous owner told you to add extra oil to reservoir, did you ask why?" +"Hi guys, + +I have a 1999 30hp 3 cylinder 2 stroke. +It starts on only 2 cylinders and picks up the third around 2000 RPM. Over 2000 it runs strong and sounds great. It will drop the cylinder coming back down as well. Around 1800 the cylinder starts firing but there is a frequent misfire. + +Any thoughts on this? + +Thanks.",sounds like the coil is toast or the carbs arent synced,sounds like the coil is toast or the carbs arent synced,"Boobie said: + + + + Is the temperature coming up to where it's supposed to be. I.E. Is it running to cold ?? + +Click to expand... + + +2 times on this." +"Hey, I just purchased a 1993 Grady White Seafarer and it has a 200hp Yamaha on the back of it. Boat sat for a few years so I removed all the gas and put in fresh gas, changed the water fuel separator and the primer bulb. Motor was running great! The steering was locked up so I heated up the shaft so it would break free and it did! Now when I go to start the boat the engine races out of control and won't have a normal idle so I thought it could the shift cable or the carbs. Disconnected the shift cable and it did the same thing. So I rebuilt the carbs (this was my first time doing it) and it did the same exact thing. Not sure what else it could be? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks","chaase68 said: + + + + Hey, I just purchased a 1993 Grady White Seafarer and it has a 200hp Yamaha on the back of it. Boat sat for a few years so I removed all the gas and put in fresh gas, changed the water fuel separator and the primer bulb. Motor was running great! The steering was locked up so I heated up the shaft so it would break free and it did! Now when I go to start the boat the engine races out of control and won't have a normal idle so I thought it could the shift cable or the carbs. Disconnected the shift cable and it did the same thing. So I rebuilt the carbs (this was my first time doing it) and it did the same exact thing. Not sure what else it could be? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks + +Click to expand... + + + +Ok, so I found out one of the butterflies on the throttle was stuck and now its not reving out of control! However, when I rebuilt the carbs must have done something wrong because there is fuel coming out of one of the carbs? Is this the float and needle? Took it apart and seemed out and reassembled but the same thing happened? Could it be the throttle adjustments?","chaase68 said: + + + + Hey, I just purchased a 1993 Grady White Seafarer and it has a 200hp Yamaha on the back of it. Boat sat for a few years so I removed all the gas and put in fresh gas, changed the water fuel separator and the primer bulb. Motor was running great! The steering was locked up so I heated up the shaft so it would break free and it did! Now when I go to start the boat the engine races out of control and won't have a normal idle so I thought it could the shift cable or the carbs. Disconnected the shift cable and it did the same thing. So I rebuilt the carbs (this was my first time doing it) and it did the same exact thing. Not sure what else it could be? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks + +Click to expand... + + + +Ok, so I found out one of the butterflies on the throttle was stuck and now its not reving out of control! However, when I rebuilt the carbs must have done something wrong because there is fuel coming out of one of the carbs? Is this the float and needle? Took it apart and seemed out and reassembled but the same thing happened? Could it be the throttle adjustments?","Reply back with complete model number. + +Speed (mph) is a poor reference tool to use when troubleshooting. Simply because speed can vary to a great degree caused by numerous variables. Rpms is a more valued tool you'll want to focus on. 15mph does sound very low for a 200hp. However, speed is relative to the load the engine is pushing. For all I know your pontoon weighs 2 tons. + +So, how many rpms are you seeing at WOT? I believe the spec rpm range for your engine at WOT is 4500-5500. I would guess from what little you've detailed that 15mph is not producing 5500. But I prefer not to guess. + +90% of the time when an outboard is struggling it's related to the fuel system....whether its fuel, filters, hoses, primer bulb, carbs, etc. So I'd start troubleshooting there." +"I have 261 mako with 1990 Yamaha 200s on it. I blew one up and am looking at repowing with 2000 225 ox66 salwater series. I was wondering if my wiring harness would plug right into these motors or will I have to rewire. Could not find any information. So any help would be much appreciated. + +Thanks, Greg","Except for the main ten pin harness, adapter harnesses are needed. 1993 and prior models used round connectors. 1994 and later models used square connectors.","Except for the main ten pin harness, adapter harnesses are needed. 1993 and prior models used round connectors. 1994 and later models used square connectors.","From a Mercruiser, something like a 230CI 150 HP Chevy in line." +"I have 261 mako with 1990 Yamaha 200s on it. I blew one up and am looking at repowing with 2000 225 ox66 salwater series. I was wondering if my wiring harness would plug right into these motors or will I have to rewire. Could not find any information. So any help would be much appreciated. + +Thanks, Greg","Thanks, do you know where to get an adpter harness or would possibly have a part number. Anything would help","Thanks, do you know where to get an adpter harness or would possibly have a part number. Anything would help","Boobie said: + + + + A metal pump type oil can works real good. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Boobie, good tip." +"I have 261 mako with 1990 Yamaha 200s on it. I blew one up and am looking at repowing with 2000 225 ox66 salwater series. I was wondering if my wiring harness would plug right into these motors or will I have to rewire. Could not find any information. So any help would be much appreciated. + +Thanks, Greg","Glinley said: + + + + Thanks, do you know where to get an adapter harness or would possibly have a part number. Anything would help + +Click to expand... + + +You get them from your Yamaha dealer. Technical bulletin O93-006 refers.","Glinley said: + + + + Thanks, do you know where to get an adapter harness or would possibly have a part number. Anything would help + +Click to expand... + + +You get them from your Yamaha dealer. Technical bulletin O93-006 refers.","Ayuh,... Who knows,..?? + +You haven't said What the boat is, or What the motor is, or What the drive is, or What vintage any of it is... + +So, I'll Guess it's obsolete, 'n no longer needed..." +"I have 261 mako with 1990 Yamaha 200s on it. I blew one up and am looking at repowing with 2000 225 ox66 salwater series. I was wondering if my wiring harness would plug right into these motors or will I have to rewire. Could not find any information. So any help would be much appreciated. + +Thanks, Greg",Thanks for the help,Thanks for the help,Sounds like a water tube for a speedo. +"This motor is still new to me, I have noticed it will shake pretty good at times at idle. It starts great and runs good but at idle can literally shake the boat. + +Any thoughts or ideas",My first idea is to know what model engine,My first idea is to know what model engine,"deepsea21 said: + + + + Yes.. I was just looking some more at the boat you are looking at and the manuf website and I couldn't figure out how they got those lifting strakes in on the hull of the boat you are looking at if it was an aluminum hull! As it is fiberglass, it probably weighs close to mine and probably a bit less than mine as Edgewaters are known to be on the heavy side compared to many back then (mine is a 2002). I would now guess with 100HP on that boat being fiberglass you'll cruise at about 24 MPH turning 4400 RPM (still within the max economy range) and top out around 34 MPH at 5800-6000. Again... still very respectable speeds and the sweet spot for 4-strokes and fuel efficiency is that 4200-4400 RPM range which you'll still be in. I say the boat is not at all underpowered if you aren't a speed freak. Give it a test drive and do let us know how it turns out. Cheers... Love you Aussies! These days you seem to be the most sane people on the planet! Except maybe you... What time is it there right now???? ; ) + +Click to expand... + + + +ha thanks mate, the insanity is certainly reaching us! +its morning on friday here, 8.16am, im at work, still winter here so im looking at getting a new boat soon before the spring and the snapper start to come on. +i will definitely get this one checked out, i dont care about have a super fast boat, the guy selling it is younger and i think he does care. +i will let you know how it goes! +cheers +Rusty" +"This motor is still new to me, I have noticed it will shake pretty good at times at idle. It starts great and runs good but at idle can literally shake the boat. + +Any thoughts or ideas",40TLR - 2 stroke,40TLR - 2 stroke,"Also watch out for frayed insulation on the wires-short circuit after vibration of the motor and fraying of the wires would instantly toast the cdi. also have a look at the cdi electronics manual and check the resistances on the wires so as to be sure that you don't fry the next cdi. it is not necessary to check the frequencies and etc with a fancy meter, just the resistances with a regular meter. just a good quick check." +"This motor is still new to me, I have noticed it will shake pretty good at times at idle. It starts great and runs good but at idle can literally shake the boat. + +Any thoughts or ideas","Seems to shake more when I put it in gear, give it more gas and the shaking will go away. + + I assume my carbs or jets could be gummed up - would sea foam help this","Seems to shake more when I put it in gear, give it more gas and the shaking will go away. + + I assume my carbs or jets could be gummed up - would sea foam help this",What causes this in a motor with <20 hours? +"This motor is still new to me, I have noticed it will shake pretty good at times at idle. It starts great and runs good but at idle can literally shake the boat. + +Any thoughts or ideas","cooperfly said: + + + + Seems to shake more when I put it in gear, give it more gas and the shaking will go away. + + I assume my carbs or jets could be gummed up - would sea foam help this + +Click to expand... + + +I would check the RPMs. It might need adjusting. Sounds it set too low.","cooperfly said: + + + + Seems to shake more when I put it in gear, give it more gas and the shaking will go away. + + I assume my carbs or jets could be gummed up - would sea foam help this + +Click to expand... + + +I would check the RPMs. It might need adjusting. Sounds it set too low.",Roger that I will use a seacock on all the bilge pump thru hulls. Next question: I know i need to mount the thruhull above the waterline but can it be mounted to high up on the hull? or is it the higher the better? +"This motor is still new to me, I have noticed it will shake pretty good at times at idle. It starts great and runs good but at idle can literally shake the boat. + +Any thoughts or ideas","ok thanks, I do not have gauge for RPM. so would need to research how to check","ok thanks, I do not have gauge for RPM. so would need to research how to check",take that to the dump before you need a tetnus shot! look at the hole in the axle tube! +"This motor is still new to me, I have noticed it will shake pretty good at times at idle. It starts great and runs good but at idle can literally shake the boat. + +Any thoughts or ideas",would anyone use or recommend seafoam in the gas to help clean and maybe help rough idle,would anyone use or recommend seafoam in the gas to help clean and maybe help rough idle,"""Not sure where HERE is but Ma + +""Not sure where HERE is but Maine started fall of 08can't remember for sure the date,all I know it screwed alot of people here in Maine.I tried to tell people when I came home from Ma. but no one would listen until they started ruining chain saws,generators sno mobiles,outboards but then it was to late,damage done.The big problem with the new gas with ethanol is the water they always said gas & water don't mix but in this case ethanol molecules & water molecules combine to make a solid if left sitting for an extended time,less than 3 weeks.The govt. in their wisdom thought they would be saving money,oil,environment,create jobs but if we had the expense to the public right now because of ethanol it is probably quite scary & I think they should stop using ethanol for marine use but I am not going to hold my breath on that one!All I know is add stabilizer, keep changing filters & hang on because it looks like it is going to get worse instead of better.""" +"This motor is still new to me, I have noticed it will shake pretty good at times at idle. It starts great and runs good but at idle can literally shake the boat. + +Any thoughts or ideas","Sounds like idle circuit needs looking into,The only way to free up possible gunk inside of carb. is remove carb. disassemble it then soak overnight,go threw all passages,jets,needle seat, etc. Then dry all passages with compressed filtered dry air. Have you tried a cylinder drop test at idle? Pulling one plug wire at a time, There should be a sound change and a rpm drop on a cylinder that's operating properly","Sounds like idle circuit needs looking into,The only way to free up possible gunk inside of carb. is remove carb. disassemble it then soak overnight,go threw all passages,jets,needle seat, etc. Then dry all passages with compressed filtered dry air. Have you tried a cylinder drop test at idle? Pulling one plug wire at a time, There should be a sound change and a rpm drop on a cylinder that's operating properly",I meant installing extra stringers in flooring glassing them in.Then repainting floor but disregard because you dont want holes in floor.I would wait for more replys. +"I bought a '83 15 hp Mariner and was pleasantly surprised to find out it was pure Yamaha, and not a Tohatsu. Around here Yamaha are considered the best little outboards. Google has been very unhelpful, here's question for an Yamaha expert , what years did Yamaha models change ? And the changes ? I know from experience there is quite a difference between a '74 and a '76 Merc 7.5 . This would be a great help in getting manuals and parts. I don't think Mercury would be very enthusiastic about Yami / Mariner support from what I did find on Google",What difference is there between a 74 and 76 Merc 7.5 ??----Post some details.,What difference is there between a 74 and 76 Merc 7.5 ??----Post some details.,"rejesterd said: + + + + Hi. + +If you want to flush it, you should backflush it rather than use the muffs. If you don't have a backflushing adapter, I would install one. Not expensive and easy to do. + +If you get a stiff stream when in the water at speeds slightly above idle, then I would guess your impeller is just fine. + +Click to expand... + +Is there any links to adding a backflush adapter to this outboard?" +"I bought a '83 15 hp Mariner and was pleasantly surprised to find out it was pure Yamaha, and not a Tohatsu. Around here Yamaha are considered the best little outboards. Google has been very unhelpful, here's question for an Yamaha expert , what years did Yamaha models change ? And the changes ? I know from experience there is quite a difference between a '74 and a '76 Merc 7.5 . This would be a great help in getting manuals and parts. I don't think Mercury would be very enthusiastic about Yami / Mariner support from what I did find on Google","The differences between the Mercs are ignition; cowling, upper and lower; clamp bracket, clamps; swivel housing ; stainless steel drive shaft, shift rod , maybe the prop shaft too; front fascia ; and the important one, decals. One has blue strips and the newer one blue bands. These are Canadian models. Shouldn't this be on the Mercury forum, though.","The differences between the Mercs are ignition; cowling, upper and lower; clamp bracket, clamps; swivel housing ; stainless steel drive shaft, shift rod , maybe the prop shaft too; front fascia ; and the important one, decals. One has blue strips and the newer one blue bands. These are Canadian models. Shouldn't this be on the Mercury forum, though.","Nevermind, it was crusted over with salt." +"I just ran the motor for its breakin period. As i brought the boat (14ft tinny) to plane I started porpoising. +The tilt pins on a electric tilt motor wont come out as the ram is in the way?? Do i have to dismantle the tilt motor just to adjust the pins? +Thanks Cdublu","The motor itself should have no bearing on the position of the tilt cylinder. All it does is supply hydraulic fluid to and from the cylinder when the motor is not running. + +Is the tilt cylinder retracted fully downward when you go get onto plane? + +What do you mean by tilt pins? Do you have a reference to these parts in a parts catalog?","The motor itself should have no bearing on the position of the tilt cylinder. All it does is supply hydraulic fluid to and from the cylinder when the motor is not running. + +Is the tilt cylinder retracted fully downward when you go get onto plane? + +What do you mean by tilt pins? Do you have a reference to these parts in a parts catalog?","I will definitely do that before purchasing anything, was just curios if anyone had any real world experience with manual hydraulic steering and larger diameter wheels on larger boats, I'm keen on the simplicity and lack of power usage. +Thank you both very much for your replies and the links!" +"I just ran the motor for its breakin period. As i brought the boat (14ft tinny) to plane I started porpoising. +The tilt pins on a electric tilt motor wont come out as the ram is in the way?? Do i have to dismantle the tilt motor just to adjust the pins? +Thanks Cdublu",The stops that the motor hits when set to the lowest setting. With a manual tilt motor you have a rod that goes straight through but on the electric tilt i believe they have a stop pin on each side.,The stops that the motor hits when set to the lowest setting. With a manual tilt motor you have a rod that goes straight through but on the electric tilt i believe they have a stop pin on each side.,"That gasket/grommet thing is new, and I'm fairly certain it fits snugly to the pipe. Again, it's pumping great when the motor is sitting down low in the water. Thanks for the ideas, keep em coming!" +"I just ran the motor for its breakin period. As i brought the boat (14ft tinny) to plane I started porpoising. +The tilt pins on a electric tilt motor wont come out as the ram is in the way?? Do i have to dismantle the tilt motor just to adjust the pins? +Thanks Cdublu","You are correct. A manual tilt motor may use a pin (through holes in the clamp brackets) so as to position the motor at some given point. + +The F20LPHA/F20SPHA does not use a pin. When the motor is powered down via use of the power tilt system the motor goes down as far as it can.","You are correct. A manual tilt motor may use a pin (through holes in the clamp brackets) so as to position the motor at some given point. + +The F20LPHA/F20SPHA does not use a pin. When the motor is powered down via use of the power tilt system the motor goes down as far as it can.","I just bought one from here. They were very knowledgeable about what i needed. In fact the dealer told me one spline count and they told me another. I questioned them and they assured me if wrong they would pay the shipping both ways. I wrote the person't name down and they were in fact correct. + +http://www.firstchoicemarine.com/#_" +"I just ran the motor for its breakin period. As i brought the boat (14ft tinny) to plane I started porpoising. +The tilt pins on a electric tilt motor wont come out as the ram is in the way?? Do i have to dismantle the tilt motor just to adjust the pins? +Thanks Cdublu","I will check again as there is a stud in each side in the holes for the clamp bracket that the motor stops at, restricting the lowest setting of the motor. At least that how it looks.","I will check again as there is a stud in each side in the holes for the clamp bracket that the motor stops at, restricting the lowest setting of the motor. At least that how it looks.","Thanks for all the tips deepsea. It turned out to be my high pressure fuel pump. That aftermarket fuel pump looked great and was well made but obviously something was wrong inside it, I almost wonder now that I'm thinking if they had wired it in reverse or something. I could hear the pump running but it never got gas to the fuel rail. I sent it back and bought the oem yamaha one from iboats, it was about 170. Pump came today and I installed it after work, when I clicked the key in the first position gas poured out of the hose leading to the fuel rail so I was excited. Sure enough once I buttoned that hose down the motor fired right up. Success!! I'm not sure what killed my old pump, it runs on 12v but it might normally run on less on the harness. It might have sucked up something when I was close to running out of gas but I have no idea what could have gotten by the racor and fuel filter and then the vst filter too. + +Many thanks for all your help!! I'm off to chase tuna again this week!" +"I just ran the motor for its breakin period. As i brought the boat (14ft tinny) to plane I started porpoising. +The tilt pins on a electric tilt motor wont come out as the ram is in the way?? Do i have to dismantle the tilt motor just to adjust the pins? +Thanks Cdublu",Yes there are 2 stop pins that are set at about the 3rd hole stopping the motor from fully dropping.,Yes there are 2 stop pins that are set at about the 3rd hole stopping the motor from fully dropping.,one more question about the trim. What is this? It's above the trim motor. The wires that run from this are not hooked up to anything at the battery end +"I just ran the motor for its breakin period. As i brought the boat (14ft tinny) to plane I started porpoising. +The tilt pins on a electric tilt motor wont come out as the ram is in the way?? Do i have to dismantle the tilt motor just to adjust the pins? +Thanks Cdublu","Those bolts are not intended to be adjusted like a pin is on the manual tilt model. The brackets for the manual tilt model are completely different from the brackets for the hydraulic tilt model. + +You can always remove the tilt assembly to re-position the two bolts to see if it makes the situation any better. +I would try some other things first. Moving weight forward being the first. Adding a hydrofoil being the second. Adding transom wedges being the third.","Those bolts are not intended to be adjusted like a pin is on the manual tilt model. The brackets for the manual tilt model are completely different from the brackets for the hydraulic tilt model. + +You can always remove the tilt assembly to re-position the two bolts to see if it makes the situation any better. +I would try some other things first. Moving weight forward being the first. Adding a hydrofoil being the second. Adding transom wedges being the third.","Never had that problem, but most after market tachs have a setting on the back for number of cylinders. Check that your setting matches you number of cylinders. Also, go onto the manufacturers website and pull down the installation and set up instructions for that model and see if it is installed and set up correctly. If that is all in order, then you need to test the output pulses from the stator or ECM, depending on your type engine." +"I just ran the motor for its breakin period. As i brought the boat (14ft tinny) to plane I started porpoising. +The tilt pins on a electric tilt motor wont come out as the ram is in the way?? Do i have to dismantle the tilt motor just to adjust the pins? +Thanks Cdublu",Thanks for the reply. Weight shifting will be the next step then.,Thanks for the reply. Weight shifting will be the next step then.,"Thans so much, I'll do that." +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you",No one knows anything about these relays?,No one knows anything about these relays?,"I am trying to make the gas & throttlecables to fit correctly. Just like in the video of Dangar Marine. The problem is, with this locking collar which came out after 1994 while the engine is from 1993.So that, s why these cables dont fit correctly. +Serial from my engine is +40HEO +6H4 S 105337" +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you",You should have done your research before open it up. With that said the relay is a very simple device. It's just a coil and a few contacts. If it clicks that means it receives the input signal. If there is no power coming out then there could be 2 things. The first would be to check your main power feed. If the power feed is there at the relay then the contacts inside the relay are dirty. You should have 2 5-prongs relays. One is for trim down and one for trim up. They both work together. The reason for the 5 prongs relay is that there is only one trim motor with 2 wires (example A and B). To go up A is + and B is -. To go down A is - and B is +. Each relay will have one output and that output feeds one wire of the trim motor. These output will rest at - all the time. When you trim up it will activate only one relay and that relay will switch the output from - to +. This will complete the circuit and will activate the motor. Same thing with trim down. The other relay will get activated instead. GL,You should have done your research before open it up. With that said the relay is a very simple device. It's just a coil and a few contacts. If it clicks that means it receives the input signal. If there is no power coming out then there could be 2 things. The first would be to check your main power feed. If the power feed is there at the relay then the contacts inside the relay are dirty. You should have 2 5-prongs relays. One is for trim down and one for trim up. They both work together. The reason for the 5 prongs relay is that there is only one trim motor with 2 wires (example A and B). To go up A is + and B is -. To go down A is - and B is +. Each relay will have one output and that output feeds one wire of the trim motor. These output will rest at - all the time. When you trim up it will activate only one relay and that relay will switch the output from - to +. This will complete the circuit and will activate the motor. Same thing with trim down. The other relay will get activated instead. GL,Usual load of old-timer BS from you. You complicate what doesn't need complicating and I'm sad to see that you can't see that. +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you",thanks for the reply. I realise I should of researched before I tried to pull it apart. oh well only a 300$ mistake. turns out it was the tilt/trim motor that got a bit of water in it. have serviced it and the motor works again. waiting to get relay in which should be here tomorrow and the boat will be operational again.,thanks for the reply. I realise I should of researched before I tried to pull it apart. oh well only a 300$ mistake. turns out it was the tilt/trim motor that got a bit of water in it. have serviced it and the motor works again. waiting to get relay in which should be here tomorrow and the boat will be operational again.,its the shift shaft seal +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you",lol relays don't cost $300. Last time I bought 30Amp relay is $5 each.,lol relays don't cost $300. Last time I bought 30Amp relay is $5 each.,"Could it be that there is something wrong with the cdi box,or clogged water cooling system,or faulty temperature sensor?We've had the engine a little over two years and had not changed spark plugs yet but oil and filter them we change." +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you","I know then, you tell me where I can get the proper relay to suit the motor for less. list price is 345. so 305isnt bad. I am in Australia, so everything costs more here.","I know then, you tell me where I can get the proper relay to suit the motor for less. list price is 345. so 305isnt bad. I am in Australia, so everything costs more here.","airboat233 said: + + + + Hello, if a sealer of some kind is still needed look up and find ""SEA FLEX"" or ""STEEL FLEX"" sea flex being the better. We or I used to run aluminum hulls on airboats in the glades. Also had rivit and leak problems. These hulls had to flex! Sea Flex is a 2 part expoxy type coating that can be sprayed or rolled on. Its made for alum. Flexes very good so you dont worry about it popping off. Comes in quart and gallon. Easy to apply, cures in about 8 hrs and fully cures in about 24. Just follow instructions. ps I am still airboating but on a fiberglass hull. good luck airboat233 + forgot..... sea flex is slick and cuts the water better than gelcoat (IMO) + +Click to expand... + + +The above post is for anyone having aluminum hulls with leaking problems, airboa233" +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you","Not sure your relays have special sockets for them or not. If they do and you want to keep them original then go for the OEM relays. If it were me I would get a set of automotive relays and splice in the wires. I described how these relays work above. It's up to you what you want to do. This really brings out the meaning of BOAT isn't it. If you need help rewiring let me know. It's actually very simple after you understand it. GL + +PS. I forgot to describe how the 5 prongs relay work. This is from the top of my head BTW. 2 of the prongs are inputs to the coil (85 and 86). One is ground and the other is 12V input. Pin 30 is the output. Pin 87 is the input and normally open, relative to pin 30. Pin 87A is also input and normally connect to pin 30. When the relay activates it disconnects pin 87A from 30 and at the same time it connects pin 30 to pin 87.","Not sure your relays have special sockets for them or not. If they do and you want to keep them original then go for the OEM relays. If it were me I would get a set of automotive relays and splice in the wires. I described how these relays work above. It's up to you what you want to do. This really brings out the meaning of BOAT isn't it. If you need help rewiring let me know. It's actually very simple after you understand it. GL + +PS. I forgot to describe how the 5 prongs relay work. This is from the top of my head BTW. 2 of the prongs are inputs to the coil (85 and 86). One is ground and the other is 12V input. Pin 30 is the output. Pin 87 is the input and normally open, relative to pin 30. Pin 87A is also input and normally connect to pin 30. When the relay activates it disconnects pin 87A from 30 and at the same time it connects pin 30 to pin 87.",If you've replaced oil reservoir sensor but it's still not sending signal then most likely it's the signal/ground. Test sensor fround is good and do same for signal. +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you","There is 4 terminals coming from the relay, 1 for negative, 1 for active from the battery, 2 to tilt trim motor. then there is 4 wires going into relay that comes from switch. the new genuine one is ordered i will just stick with it at this stage. I am lucky it wasnt the tilt/trim motor that was burnt out. 900$ for them.","There is 4 terminals coming from the relay, 1 for negative, 1 for active from the battery, 2 to tilt trim motor. then there is 4 wires going into relay that comes from switch. the new genuine one is ordered i will just stick with it at this stage. I am lucky it wasnt the tilt/trim motor that was burnt out. 900$ for them.","Thanks for the advice everyone, I got her started last week after everything had thawed out. The only problem that was apparent after an inspection and about 45 minutes of running was a smallish split in the exhaust hose. I guess I'll know for sure in the spring when I'm running her for longer periods, but if that was the only casualty then I'm counting myself extremely lucky." +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you","If your relay has four prongs that means the switch is the one does the switching of the polarity of the signals for the trim motor. This is a dual action type of switch and it can cost $. The 4 prongs relay is just a standard relay. Just get an automotive relay and plug it in and save yourself $300. Show me a picture of the relay socket where the relay plug into. + +The system I described above uses a single action switch to control.","If your relay has four prongs that means the switch is the one does the switching of the polarity of the signals for the trim motor. This is a dual action type of switch and it can cost $. The 4 prongs relay is just a standard relay. Just get an automotive relay and plug it in and save yourself $300. Show me a picture of the relay socket where the relay plug into. + +The system I described above uses a single action switch to control.","Theres a thing called a speedi sleeve that fits over worn seal races. They are relatively cheap. If it were me, I would see if there was one that fits your axle before going thru all the drama of replacing." +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you",the relay didnt come in today. should be here tomorrow. there is no socket the relay is a rectangle block type that bolts onto the front of the engine under the cowl,the relay didnt come in today. should be here tomorrow. there is no socket the relay is a rectangle block type that bolts onto the front of the engine under the cowl,"Teambk, + +I would keep a daily eye on Ebay, these pressure tanks are not uncommon, the fittings and hoses pop up from time to time as well. + + +http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-195..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item3a71f61e33&vxp=mtr + + +Good hunting!" +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you",The relay has 4 male pins sticking out. It needs a female socket to plug into. If there is no socket that means the wires attached to the male connectors and you have to plug one by one into the relay. If this is the case you can get an automotive relay which is like $5 each.,The relay has 4 male pins sticking out. It needs a female socket to plug into. If there is no socket that means the wires attached to the male connectors and you have to plug one by one into the relay. If this is the case you can get an automotive relay which is like $5 each.,"I think hydraulic is a little out of my range. Would the teleflex system require replacing the steering wheel, or would that be adaptable?" +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you","I have a 2000 50 HP Evinrude that has a tilt problem. I can raise the engine using the switch on the throttle handle but I can't lower the engine using this switch. I can raise and lower the engine by using the switch located on the engine. Does that engine switch use the same relay? Or does it mean that I have a bad wire between the throttle handle and the tilt? Any suggestions about how to trouble shoot this would be greatly appreciated. This is my first post so if I have not done something correctly, please let me know.","I have a 2000 50 HP Evinrude that has a tilt problem. I can raise the engine using the switch on the throttle handle but I can't lower the engine using this switch. I can raise and lower the engine by using the switch located on the engine. Does that engine switch use the same relay? Or does it mean that I have a bad wire between the throttle handle and the tilt? Any suggestions about how to trouble shoot this would be greatly appreciated. This is my first post so if I have not done something correctly, please let me know.","boscoe said: + + + + I did not realize that the motor was laying on its side. Makes sense now. But I don't think it would be that big of a deal to roll it over. + +Click to expand... + + +If I was able to, would the CDI give me a specific year between 86 and 89 or closer to a specific model number? Looking at various 150 hp yamaha parts diagrams around those years the CDI looks like the same part number.." +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you","You have posted on a thread that is 7 years old, start a new thread of your own, Go to home page and click on the"" help"" icon upper left corner in the dark blue stripe, You will get more responses","You have posted on a thread that is 7 years old, start a new thread of your own, Go to home page and click on the"" help"" icon upper left corner in the dark blue stripe, You will get more responses","oh now I just gotta find the serial number for it it has been painted a few times trou the years but I need to find them to licence it before I move,Wisconsin dont require a license for a 19 ft. and under but the states going to Connecticut is un forsure and I do not need a ticket! The gas prices are bad enuff! LOL" +"Hi guys + +today I went out and the motor worked fine and all of a sudden it wouldnt tilt down or up. then it started tilting up but wouldnt go down. I made it back to boat ramp and when boat was on trailer the motor went down then wouldnt come up. + +there was a clicking in the relay at front of engine under the cowl. like the relay was stuffed or battery was flat (which it wasnt as motor started fine etc). + +I have removed this relay and stupid me tried to open it up as the top is screwed down but 2 wires on each end go through the top and join the windings, which broke. + +I know I will have to get another relay but can anyone tell me if this would of been the cause of the problem as when I pressed either tilt up/down button on motor or throttle control there was just clicking which I could also feel when I placed finger on the relay. + +I was thinking after I stuffed this relay that it may of been another problem that was causing the relay to click????? the relay is under cowl in engine not on the tilt/trim motor. + +thank you","mralnd said: + + + + I have a 2000 50 HP Evinrude that has a tilt problem. I can raise the engine using the switch on the throttle handle but I can't lower the engine using this switch. I can raise and lower the engine by using the switch located on the engine. Does that engine switch use the same relay? Or does it mean that I have a bad wire between the throttle handle and the tilt? Any suggestions about how to trouble shoot this would be greatly appreciated. This is my first post so if I have not done something correctly, please let me know. + +Click to expand... + + + +If your motor raises and lowers properly with the switch on the motor, the tilt and trim function is working fine. it could be the switch in the throttle handle or a cabling issue. check the connections from the throttle handle. then look at the switch.","mralnd said: + + + + I have a 2000 50 HP Evinrude that has a tilt problem. I can raise the engine using the switch on the throttle handle but I can't lower the engine using this switch. I can raise and lower the engine by using the switch located on the engine. Does that engine switch use the same relay? Or does it mean that I have a bad wire between the throttle handle and the tilt? Any suggestions about how to trouble shoot this would be greatly appreciated. This is my first post so if I have not done something correctly, please let me know. + +Click to expand... + + + +If your motor raises and lowers properly with the switch on the motor, the tilt and trim function is working fine. it could be the switch in the throttle handle or a cabling issue. check the connections from the throttle handle. then look at the switch.",No....... +"Replaced impeller today as there was no water coming from the tell tale.. Afterwards, still no water. Traced back to t-stat, removed it to see and is started peeing after 15s. + +Is the tstat faulty or am i missing sth here? surely the tell tale has to work regardless of stat or does the stat have to open first? We had 115-120 degrees at high idle around the water cover (hottest area).","The moment the crankshaft begins to turn is the same moment when the impeller begins to turn. Stats in or out does not have an effect of the flow of water exiting telltale. Water should ALWAYS be exiting telltale when engine is running. + +Seeing water exit TT only after removing stats could be indicative of a cooling system blockage, as by removing is relieving pressure within the system. Be that as it may, even with a complete blockage of cooling system you should still have water exiting TT. I'd first address the pump, its proper installation, including the water tube hookup to pump housing.","The moment the crankshaft begins to turn is the same moment when the impeller begins to turn. Stats in or out does not have an effect of the flow of water exiting telltale. Water should ALWAYS be exiting telltale when engine is running. + +Seeing water exit TT only after removing stats could be indicative of a cooling system blockage, as by removing is relieving pressure within the system. Be that as it may, even with a complete blockage of cooling system you should still have water exiting TT. I'd first address the pump, its proper installation, including the water tube hookup to pump housing.","Hi mckinnos. + +No problems at all. A bit of good fortune finding one and especially so close to home! Good work! +Happy boating + +Best regards, +Sccott." +"Replaced impeller today as there was no water coming from the tell tale.. Afterwards, still no water. Traced back to t-stat, removed it to see and is started peeing after 15s. + +Is the tstat faulty or am i missing sth here? surely the tell tale has to work regardless of stat or does the stat have to open first? We had 115-120 degrees at high idle around the water cover (hottest area).","Well the water tube went in, i used the old rubber grommet and plastic locator with the 2 tabs, everything else is new, wear plate, gasket,impeller etc. Had the same issue b4 doing pump, and old impeller didnt look too bad, was kind of soft - + +I understand the stat shouldnt affect the flow - but somehow it opened up soon as i removed it (sits on top of head under the 2 bolt holder). There is a T where the water exits block to tell tale, not sure where other one goes.. fyi line was clear from block to tell tale.. just odd how removing the stat made the water suddenly appear..","Well the water tube went in, i used the old rubber grommet and plastic locator with the 2 tabs, everything else is new, wear plate, gasket,impeller etc. Had the same issue b4 doing pump, and old impeller didnt look too bad, was kind of soft - + +I understand the stat shouldnt affect the flow - but somehow it opened up soon as i removed it (sits on top of head under the 2 bolt holder). There is a T where the water exits block to tell tale, not sure where other one goes.. fyi line was clear from block to tell tale.. just odd how removing the stat made the water suddenly appear..","Soooooo- new headgaskets and head cover gaskets. All the water passages are clean, waterflow is good, and new thermostats are functioning. My IR heat gun shows the head covers at 128 degrees at idle. Both sides show this now, which is good. + +I ran her at about 3000 rpm on the trailer at the ramp last night for 10 minutes - no overheat problem. I think launched her and did a few laps in the area close to the launch. in less than 5 minutes, the overheat alarm came on and the boat went into limp mode. It recovered within 20 seconds when I put her to idle. I couldn't even get the cover off to take a heat reading on the heads before the alarm silenced itself. + +I am beginning to think it is either a bad temp sensor, or a bad poppet valve. I plan to test the heat sensors today. I have a poppet valve on order. I also plan to change out the 4 month old impeller, just in case. + +Any other possible ideas guys? This is getting to be an epic freakin' troubleshoot. + +Rob" +"Replaced impeller today as there was no water coming from the tell tale.. Afterwards, still no water. Traced back to t-stat, removed it to see and is started peeing after 15s. + +Is the tstat faulty or am i missing sth here? surely the tell tale has to work regardless of stat or does the stat have to open first? We had 115-120 degrees at high idle around the water cover (hottest area).","With lower unit off, Backflush engine from stat housing to water tube","With lower unit off, Backflush engine from stat housing to water tube",Well may have to go to OMC outdrive then. I can get a rig off of a 1996 that is in good shape and just replace the lower unit. More concerned with the HP and weight change effecting performance of the hull even with20 gallons more of fuel I is going to be light in the transom. Hoping the 330HP will perform as well as the duals did on the boat. +"Replaced impeller today as there was no water coming from the tell tale.. Afterwards, still no water. Traced back to t-stat, removed it to see and is started peeing after 15s. + +Is the tstat faulty or am i missing sth here? surely the tell tale has to work regardless of stat or does the stat have to open first? We had 115-120 degrees at high idle around the water cover (hottest area).","johnnygjr said: + + + + With lower unit off, Backflush engine from stat housing to water tube + +Click to expand... + + +Will do - was going to when it was off but forgot lol. Assuming its clean - is there any explanation why removing the stat wd it let pee?","johnnygjr said: + + + + With lower unit off, Backflush engine from stat housing to water tube + +Click to expand... + + +Will do - was going to when it was off but forgot lol. Assuming its clean - is there any explanation why removing the stat wd it let pee?","Qhn .thanks for taking the time to respond, where can I find the ECM on the engine ? Thanks" +"Replaced impeller today as there was no water coming from the tell tale.. Afterwards, still no water. Traced back to t-stat, removed it to see and is started peeing after 15s. + +Is the tstat faulty or am i missing sth here? surely the tell tale has to work regardless of stat or does the stat have to open first? We had 115-120 degrees at high idle around the water cover (hottest area).",Read post #2 again,Read post #2 again,"hey doug, + +I'll share come cracking advice, go post the same answer at http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/ and watch the useful responses flood back at you. + +Thanks +Chris" +"Hi all, sorry if this thread already exists. I have a 40 hp yamaha which appears to be leaking fuel or something. The thing is, it doesn't leak while sitting in my garage, but when it's parked at the dock I can see plumes of fuel or oil drifting away from the motor. It seems to be coming from the lower unit, but still, nothing draining while on land. I just had the lower unit seals serviced last season. Any advice/ideas will be appreciated.","Before you launch boat wipe down lower unit and back down boat into water so only the LU is submerged. Start engine and look for fuel/oil slick. If so, then you've narrowed down where it's coming from. If not, then leak is coming from mid section.","Before you launch boat wipe down lower unit and back down boat into water so only the LU is submerged. Start engine and look for fuel/oil slick. If so, then you've narrowed down where it's coming from. If not, then leak is coming from mid section.",But it is an older model.----A buyer looking for an everyday fishing motor may not want it.---If you can not fix these yourself and shops decline to work on it you have a nice display motor. +"To recap, I had a bad switch on my controller for the stbd side tilt/trim. I ran two new wires from helm controller (from blue green at helm to blue green on engine) to tilt motor wires on engine and now tilt motor works fine. Stbd engine ran fine a week ago, but now when I turn key at helm, there is nothing. Fuel gauge does not move, tach does not light, and alarm does not sound. Port engine works fine. I thought it might be ignition switch, so I swapped the stbd ignition switch for the port and the port still started up fine with nothing on stbd side. + +I checked the fuses and the fuses are fine. I checked continuity and power through the fuses and all good. I have power from battery to bolts on starter. still nothing on starter. still nothing. + +In addition, under helm panel with gauges (tachs and fuel) Found a double female pigtail (double green wire) coming out of starboard tach with no male plug anywhere. Cannot find an unassigned male anywhere. Could this have anything to do with this? + +I'm at a loss. I checked all wires and they are all connected, i checked all harnesses. + +Any ideas what I may be missing?","Have you tried jumping from solenoid to battery post on starter,or using battery cables from battery to starter","Have you tried jumping from solenoid to battery post on starter,or using battery cables from battery to starter","FishHawaii, were you able to find the problem??? I need help on this" +"To recap, I had a bad switch on my controller for the stbd side tilt/trim. I ran two new wires from helm controller (from blue green at helm to blue green on engine) to tilt motor wires on engine and now tilt motor works fine. Stbd engine ran fine a week ago, but now when I turn key at helm, there is nothing. Fuel gauge does not move, tach does not light, and alarm does not sound. Port engine works fine. I thought it might be ignition switch, so I swapped the stbd ignition switch for the port and the port still started up fine with nothing on stbd side. + +I checked the fuses and the fuses are fine. I checked continuity and power through the fuses and all good. I have power from battery to bolts on starter. still nothing on starter. still nothing. + +In addition, under helm panel with gauges (tachs and fuel) Found a double female pigtail (double green wire) coming out of starboard tach with no male plug anywhere. Cannot find an unassigned male anywhere. Could this have anything to do with this? + +I'm at a loss. I checked all wires and they are all connected, i checked all harnesses. + +Any ideas what I may be missing?","Did you check the fuse on the motor, if you look on the port side of the engine just back of the bottom carb there should be an inline fuse. Otherwise follow the red and check for power feed to your ignition switch. Green is your tacho signal and yellow should be power out of the ignition switch to gauges etc.","Did you check the fuse on the motor, if you look on the port side of the engine just back of the bottom carb there should be an inline fuse. Otherwise follow the red and check for power feed to your ignition switch. Green is your tacho signal and yellow should be power out of the ignition switch to gauges etc.","I'd be inclined to separate, clean (as necessary) , and reseat the main engine harness to dash connection...." +"Hi guys, does anyone happen to know where I would be able to find a tilt cylinder cap? It’s for a 89 yamaha 90hp model etlf. The cap that is on it is corroded and I’m not able to change out the seals. I tried ordering one on amazon of all places and the thread works but the tilt rod is too big to fit through. I’m kind of stuck. I live in Rhode Island and I have tried the only two yamaha dealers around with no luck. Any halp is appreciated","Boats.net or simyamaha.com + +have your complete model number","Boats.net or simyamaha.com + +have your complete model number","My F150 won't pee on muff's either. I was told by a Yamaha Cert. Tech that this is common with the bigger F Series engine. I do not worry about it at all because at the lake, it pees like it has been out on a weekend of binge drinking." +"Hi guys, does anyone happen to know where I would be able to find a tilt cylinder cap? It’s for a 89 yamaha 90hp model etlf. The cap that is on it is corroded and I’m not able to change out the seals. I tried ordering one on amazon of all places and the thread works but the tilt rod is too big to fit through. I’m kind of stuck. I live in Rhode Island and I have tried the only two yamaha dealers around with no luck. Any halp is appreciated","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Boats.net or simyamaha.com + +have your complete model number + +Click to expand... + +Yeah I have looked at those sites and a few others and you can only buy the whole assembly which is almost $700.. I spoke with the guy that runs 5 star marine who makes them and he gave me the exact product number he makes that should fit, so fingers crossed this one will fit","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Boats.net or simyamaha.com + +have your complete model number + +Click to expand... + +Yeah I have looked at those sites and a few others and you can only buy the whole assembly which is almost $700.. I spoke with the guy that runs 5 star marine who makes them and he gave me the exact product number he makes that should fit, so fingers crossed this one will fit",Put head on with a new gasket and run it another 20 years. +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","armjr said: + + + + .....in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. + +Click to expand... + + +No such thing as ""cleaning carbs without removing them""....sorry bud. + +No doubt the issue is fuel system related because of the reaction you get from the engine when applying choke. Carburetors have jets. The opening of these jets are incredibly small. Fuel runs through these jets. Over time, whether your using ethanol or non ethanol, sea foam or yamalube, the jets will get partially or completely clogged with debris. And since the jet opening is soo small, it doesn't take much debris to clog the flow of fuel, thus it doesn't take much debris to inhibit engine performance. + +The carbs must be pulled to access the jets, soak, and clean them so they are completely clear. And while you're in there, check the float heights are to spec. And while you're in there, replace the kit. Especially if it's been quite awhile since you last replaced.","armjr said: + + + + .....in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. + +Click to expand... + + +No such thing as ""cleaning carbs without removing them""....sorry bud. + +No doubt the issue is fuel system related because of the reaction you get from the engine when applying choke. Carburetors have jets. The opening of these jets are incredibly small. Fuel runs through these jets. Over time, whether your using ethanol or non ethanol, sea foam or yamalube, the jets will get partially or completely clogged with debris. And since the jet opening is soo small, it doesn't take much debris to clog the flow of fuel, thus it doesn't take much debris to inhibit engine performance. + +The carbs must be pulled to access the jets, soak, and clean them so they are completely clear. And while you're in there, check the float heights are to spec. And while you're in there, replace the kit. Especially if it's been quite awhile since you last replaced.","Thanks. I ordered some last night to put back in. Should be here Sunday. I also learned yesterday that the store I was getting fuel at has water in the tanks. I am going to drain tank and clean everything out. I have a water separator, but some could have made it past that point. I have to work all weekend, but will update Monday or Tuesday once I drain tank, get fresh fuel, install thermostats, and change the plugs. Thanks for the help." +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","Since I replaced? We may have found the problem. I was really hoping for a miracle cure..... I hate messing with carbs, primarily because I don't know what I'm doing. It won't be the first time in my 63 years I was forced to learn something new. + +Guess I need to surf the youtube offerings and find one that is informative yet not irritating. + +Thanks for the reply. I kinda figured it was going to come to that but,.... as you said, the Sea Foam didn't work. + +Thanks, + +Alan","Since I replaced? We may have found the problem. I was really hoping for a miracle cure..... I hate messing with carbs, primarily because I don't know what I'm doing. It won't be the first time in my 63 years I was forced to learn something new. + +Guess I need to surf the youtube offerings and find one that is informative yet not irritating. + +Thanks for the reply. I kinda figured it was going to come to that but,.... as you said, the Sea Foam didn't work. + +Thanks, + +Alan",None are going thru the hull. Thanks guys. What's a tinny? An aluminum boat? +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","Does the needle valve on the float have a rubber seat like a lawn mower engine? + +Alan","Does the needle valve on the float have a rubber seat like a lawn mower engine? + +Alan",heres my current setup. the bottom battery is the accessories the top is the starting battery. How would I wire that together with the switch +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan",duplicate post.,duplicate post.,"I think the gauges going haywire points towards this being electrical system related. Sure, the engine idled and ran better after cleaning fuel and carbs, but this naturally would be the result. Being that the engine responded well to the cleaning, yet you're still experiencing the power issue, should eliminate fuel system as the culprit. Start troubleshooting the electrical system, using voltage drop tests. Start with engines power supply and cdi." +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","I'm going to order these two items. Is there anything else I should get for replacement while I'm in there? + +Your response is the best info I've gotten all week, including from the Yamaha dealer who sold me spark plugs as the fix. + +Thanks again. + +Alan + + + + + + Yamaha Outboard New OEM Carb Carburetor Repair Kit 6H4-W0093-03-00 40hp, 50hp +1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 +$73.94$73.94 + + + Yamaha New OEM FUEL PUMP ASY 6E5-24410-03-00 +1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 +$35.94$35.94","I'm going to order these two items. Is there anything else I should get for replacement while I'm in there? + +Your response is the best info I've gotten all week, including from the Yamaha dealer who sold me spark plugs as the fix. + +Thanks again. + +Alan + + + + + + Yamaha Outboard New OEM Carb Carburetor Repair Kit 6H4-W0093-03-00 40hp, 50hp +1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 +$73.94$73.94 + + + Yamaha New OEM FUEL PUMP ASY 6E5-24410-03-00 +1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 +$35.94$35.94",That was my next suspect.. is that pump in the vst? Something I can do? I read somewhere that it needs to be done by a tech.. I’ll check tomorrow but no I dont hear that pump running when the key is on +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","Of course + + + + + +has this kit 6H4-W0093-03-00 - Carburetor Repair Kit + +for $94.75... + +I guess I could order it.... + + +Alan","Of course + + + + + +has this kit 6H4-W0093-03-00 - Carburetor Repair Kit + +for $94.75... + +I guess I could order it.... + + +Alan","Good move nucad ,I would still run a larger gauge cable from battery to engine" +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","I couldn't find the fuel pump on + + + +site. + +Alan","I couldn't find the fuel pump on + + + +site. + +Alan","Hello. I visited your website and as much as I understood, you specialize in the repair, and refit of all size yachts with haul out capability up to 70 tons and mobile service options. This is pretty impressive, and to tell the truth, I’ve never heard of your company before, but I will do my research and find out more. I'm specialized in marine electrical engineering, and with the pandemic going on, it’s hard to find a good job opportunity, so I’m glad I found this post. I’m looking forward to having a great experience, and hopefully a good collaboration." +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","To answer your question about needle having a rubber seat,most do,but I also repair mowers and I have seen needles with out rubber seat,the rubber was in the seat not on the needle itself","To answer your question about needle having a rubber seat,most do,but I also repair mowers and I have seen needles with out rubber seat,the rubber was in the seat not on the needle itself","Found at the back of your service manual. If you don't have one, google your engines model/year and you might get lucky with a free copy of the diagram." +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","Yes, that's what I meant. The first time I cleaned the carb on a lawn mower I blew it out with air. I didn't know the rubber seat was in the hole and it is now somewhere composting out in the back yard someplace. It took tearing down another carb to figure out what I had done. So, now I know what to look out for. There is likely more rubber seats in the kit. + +Thanks for the reply. + +Alan","Yes, that's what I meant. The first time I cleaned the carb on a lawn mower I blew it out with air. I didn't know the rubber seat was in the hole and it is now somewhere composting out in the back yard someplace. It took tearing down another carb to figure out what I had done. So, now I know what to look out for. There is likely more rubber seats in the kit. + +Thanks for the reply. + +Alan","If you have the HIN, call the company that made it for guidance....if they are out of business, you local body shop can probably help find you something that will match..." +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","I found online the service manual for your model/year. It will guide you on pulling, cleaning, and reinstalling carbs: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...aha-shop-manuals/383-2003-yamaha-40w-50w/file + +Be sure to pull the jet(s) and clear orifice of debris, check float height meets spec, etc","I found online the service manual for your model/year. It will guide you on pulling, cleaning, and reinstalling carbs: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...aha-shop-manuals/383-2003-yamaha-40w-50w/file + +Be sure to pull the jet(s) and clear orifice of debris, check float height meets spec, etc",Ok will do that +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","Thanks. I was going to try to do that. I appreciate you saving me the trouble. Carb kit and fuel pump should be in next week. Just got to find some shade to work in. 95 here today. + +Thanks again for all the help. I'll keep the progress posted. I've got some obligations tomorrow morning but may start pulling things apart in the afternoon. + +Alan","Thanks. I was going to try to do that. I appreciate you saving me the trouble. Carb kit and fuel pump should be in next week. Just got to find some shade to work in. 95 here today. + +Thanks again for all the help. I'll keep the progress posted. I've got some obligations tomorrow morning but may start pulling things apart in the afternoon. + +Alan","Thanks Racerone. I did pull the plug later that day, did not see and slivers or shavings on the magnet. I decided to go ahead and change the oil. I swept the drain pan with a stronger magnet and again did not see any shavings. Still stumped lol." +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","I think I located the problem area. It's a wonder the engine would run at all. Thanks for all the help. I'll update after I get back on the water. I shut it down today. Will soak everything in Acetone tomorrow and put in the new kit. + +Alan","I think I located the problem area. It's a wonder the engine would run at all. Thanks for all the help. I'll update after I get back on the water. I shut it down today. Will soak everything in Acetone tomorrow and put in the new kit. + +Alan","The fuel guage should have four wires S is sending unit I is ignition switch (same hot for tach) depending on guage you have ground to light and power to light from navigation light switch. I believe the purple wire is hot from the ignition switch to tach just use it for hot to fuel tank. Your accy switch should power up the accys move the pigtail to the switched side to the other switches. Does your engine have a overheat warning horn? There should be a switch on or around the spark plugs with one wire coming out. Turn the ignition on and short the wire going to the switch to ground the horn should sound. It shouldnt take much and yes replacing all those old switches will eliminate that factor as well and if in doubt fuse it! +http://www.ebay.com/itm/TELEFLEX-HU...ash=item2c5a445c58:g:~jEAAMXQySpRW8wZ&vxp=mtr" +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","Man, I scrub and soak, soak and scrub. Every time the acetone dries there's still gunk caked on the carb body. I don't want to get too aggressive with it but I do want it clean. Most of the green stuff came off but what appears to be oxidized Aluminum is still caked on. + + +Alan","Man, I scrub and soak, soak and scrub. Every time the acetone dries there's still gunk caked on the carb body. I don't want to get too aggressive with it but I do want it clean. Most of the green stuff came off but what appears to be oxidized Aluminum is still caked on. + + +Alan","Ok. I’ll change the filters next. No fuel pressure gauge, timing light or service manual yet. Just got the boat this year and have had no issues until now." +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","Everything is clean and back together. I put a few squirts of oil fuel mix in the cylinders and ran the starter for about 5 seconds with no plugs to lube up the works until I was sure I was getting gas. New fuel filters and water separation filter. I opted not to put on the new fuel pump right now and won't unless it won't run tomorrow. I started it and let it idle for about ten min (with water hooked up of course). It started on the first click. + +We'll see. I'm just thrilled right now that I got it all back together and running at all! + +Alan","Everything is clean and back together. I put a few squirts of oil fuel mix in the cylinders and ran the starter for about 5 seconds with no plugs to lube up the works until I was sure I was getting gas. New fuel filters and water separation filter. I opted not to put on the new fuel pump right now and won't unless it won't run tomorrow. I started it and let it idle for about ten min (with water hooked up of course). It started on the first click. + +We'll see. I'm just thrilled right now that I got it all back together and running at all! + +Alan",Here is what the rectifier looks like. +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 50 hp 2 stroke. I bought it new. Until recently it has worked perfectly barring a few minor issues, water pumps, etc., never any fuel related or mechanical issues. + +Recently it has begun to die out on acceleration past 1100 rpm. When I get to 1100 rpm and attempt to go faster it bogs down and dies. If I the choke lever to ""emergency"" it will run but not very well. If I then immediately switch to ""Run"" position it will run great. When I stop it is back to dying out. + +I have replaced all the fuel lines, spark plugs, and oil lines in addition to cleaning the carbs as best I can without removing them. It is firing on all cylinders and will run on any one of the cylinders by itself. + +My next move is to take it to the shop. + +I'm not inclined to do that just yet. + +Any suggestions? + + +Alan","I'm back in the saddle again! Ran as good as new. There was a little miss abut once a minute but I figure it's air working its way out of the system. Started perfectly and accelerated perfectly, over and over again. + +Thanks to everyone who gave me advice and links to instructions. I really appreciate everything. + +Alan","I'm back in the saddle again! Ran as good as new. There was a little miss abut once a minute but I figure it's air working its way out of the system. Started perfectly and accelerated perfectly, over and over again. + +Thanks to everyone who gave me advice and links to instructions. I really appreciate everything. + +Alan",starts with jumper from positive battery to positive on coil. Will only shut down when jumper is removed! This is(according to your pictures) a corbra drive. +"Hello: I'm new to the forum and right away I need help. I added a YouTube link showing a motor making the same noise. Does anyone know what it is!! +https://youtu.be/2IC_0yAQK9Q",Sounds like a piston.,Sounds like a piston.,"racerone said: + + + + What often happens is that it snaps into forward ( if taken apart in nuetral ) when you are not looking.-------So take it apart again.--------Control in nuetral.-----Gearcase in nuetral and re-assemle + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks racerone, + +that at sounds doable. How do I know when the gear as is in neutral? (Sorry for the million questions). + +thanks again + +russ" +"Hello: I'm new to the forum and right away I need help. I added a YouTube link showing a motor making the same noise. Does anyone know what it is!! +https://youtu.be/2IC_0yAQK9Q",Thanks for the input dark_star! I thought it was rod/piston but I got word today that my lower unit is the cause!$$$$$$,Thanks for the input dark_star! I thought it was rod/piston but I got word today that my lower unit is the cause!$$$$$$,look at your tires for scalloping(for lack of a better word)....uneven wear on the face of the tire....i added trim tabs on a boat about that size once and moved the boat aft on the trailer approx 8 inches...i ruined a set of tires in 150 miles...i run balanced trailer tires btw.... +"I noticed the gear oil was black when I changed it. +No milky texture just black. +sound normal ?",Change it out,Change it out,"TEDSAL1940 said: + + + + Boat has been laid up for one year took it out this past weekend new fuel non ethenhol 25 gallons ran engine in drive way ran good put boat in water as soon as i put in gear died only way to move was to hit auto choke switch on and off cant figure out whats wrong can anyone help thanks + +Click to expand... + + +You saying the engine did start after you engaged choke? If the engine hasn't been run in a year, my first thought is the carb's are gummed up...or at least the jets. If you left fuel in the fuel system before storing the engine, yeah, this is most certainly the issue. Pull carbs, jets, and check floats. Make sure ALL jets are pulled and clear of debris. That's where I'd start first. If you can't get it running after doing this, check back and we'll go from there." +"I noticed the gear oil was black when I changed it. +No milky texture just black. +sound normal ?","johnnygjr said: + + + + Change it out + +Click to expand... + + +I agree. Sounds like it's overdue for new fluid.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Change it out + +Click to expand... + + +I agree. Sounds like it's overdue for new fluid.",How about servicing the water bypass. +"I noticed the gear oil was black when I changed it. +No milky texture just black. +sound normal ?","gear oil was black when I changed it. + +Click to expand... + + +Yep, changed it alright.","gear oil was black when I changed it. + +Click to expand... + + +Yep, changed it alright.",The original post was 6 years ago. +A part I am having a hard time finding what it is. Its between the bottom 2 cylinders. I have no idea what it is or what it does. Appreciate any information. Its off of a 03 Yamaha 250hpdi,"Not sure what they're called, but I it looks like one of the wire holders that snap into the lower cowling. There should be a few of these in various locations. I reckon the empty hole you find in the lower cowling is where it goes.","Not sure what they're called, but I it looks like one of the wire holders that snap into the lower cowling. There should be a few of these in various locations. I reckon the empty hole you find in the lower cowling is where it goes.","Ayuh,... For paintin' a Trailer,... + +It's pretty hard to beat Rustoleum, industrial enamel...." +A part I am having a hard time finding what it is. Its between the bottom 2 cylinders. I have no idea what it is or what it does. Appreciate any information. Its off of a 03 Yamaha 250hpdi,"Looks like the anode holder. Part Number +[h=2]66M-11327-00-94[/h]","Looks like the anode holder. Part Number +[h=2]66M-11327-00-94[/h]","racerone said: + + + + When you are testing , the water in your bucket MUST be 8"" above the impeller ! + +Click to expand... + + +UPDATE - You were absolutely right -- once I lowered the engine and made sure the water level was 8"" above where the impeller would be, it started pumping! Appreciate all the feedback. Thanks folks." +"I'd like to hook up a temperature gauge to my Pro V 150. +When I remove the engine cowl I noticed two spots on the cylinder head that perhaps would be suitable? + +There is a couple of threaded but blind holes on each cylinder head. Would these be the correct spot to mount the sender for an accurate reading?","There is a location for temp sender on each bank. The section in your service manual titled ""power unit"" will identify these 2 locations on the schematic.","There is a location for temp sender on each bank. The section in your service manual titled ""power unit"" will identify these 2 locations on the schematic.","Im glad it's my brother's boat �� +But, I'm the more mechanical of the two of us... I'm challenged to find the problem. I agree it's got to be a random thing in the tank. Nothing else makes sense. The tank baffles make it impossible to scope the tank and after 2 tank polishes, you'd think it would be clean... + +What other options are there for cleaning the tank ? It's under the deck with only access plates so removing the tank is not an option." +"I'd like to hook up a temperature gauge to my Pro V 150. +When I remove the engine cowl I noticed two spots on the cylinder head that perhaps would be suitable? + +There is a couple of threaded but blind holes on each cylinder head. Would these be the correct spot to mount the sender for an accurate reading?","Thanks for that suggestion. I have the service manual, but not the owner's manual. I have looked through the service manual and can only find the testing procedure for the thermo sensor.","Thanks for that suggestion. I have the service manual, but not the owner's manual. I have looked through the service manual and can only find the testing procedure for the thermo sensor.","Thanks Johnny , Iv fused all circuts . So you only run the motors starter off the starter batt ?" +"Hi I have a 1993 yamaha 85hp 2 stroke we changed water pump,rebuilt carbs, change lower oil, and ran new fuel. Compression is 100 on all 3 cylinders. Still dont know why I am getting white liquid substance on plugs. Boat sat for 4 years prior. Please help","Have a cylinder leak down test run,sounds like water intrusion.","Have a cylinder leak down test run,sounds like water intrusion.","As I previously noted, limp mode is triggered by low oil or high temp, not by a fuel related issue. Since your engine is pre-mix oil, that would leave high temp being the trigger for limp mode. Temp relates to the cooling system, not the fuel system. Thus pulling the carbs does not address the reason limp mode is being triggered." +"Hi I have a 1993 yamaha 85hp 2 stroke we changed water pump,rebuilt carbs, change lower oil, and ran new fuel. Compression is 100 on all 3 cylinders. Still dont know why I am getting white liquid substance on plugs. Boat sat for 4 years prior. Please help",Could this be the head gasket?,Could this be the head gasket?,"Hey Chris Found out the polarity on my batteries cable wasn't correct. My tilt-trim switches aren't working now. Started motor up, ran good, try to used tilt-trim switches, but they blew the same fuse. Started checking if the relays were going to ground, they check out to be o.k.. Started backtracking on my blue-green wires. The green wire were going to ground. On the wiring harness inside the engine, is a small black box, it has one black wire, one blue wire, one gren wire. The green wire is the one going to ground. I' ve called two different supply stores, they were not familiar with this black box. The box is about one and a quarter inch long,by maybe half an inch wide. It was taped to the wiring harness, maybe two inches away from the tilt-trim onengine" +"Hi I have a 1993 yamaha 85hp 2 stroke we changed water pump,rebuilt carbs, change lower oil, and ran new fuel. Compression is 100 on all 3 cylinders. Still dont know why I am getting white liquid substance on plugs. Boat sat for 4 years prior. Please help","Head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, the gasket on bottom of engine, cracked block.....","Head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, the gasket on bottom of engine, cracked block.....","shawnfish said: + + + + guess im not sold, i made two charging posts back by my motor. i back my boat in the garage right up to my workbench connect charging clips and hit a switch to turn on charger(smart charger)and done...really all the onboard charger is, a permanently mounted charger on boat, mine is permanently sitting on workbench right where i need it to be...... + +Click to expand... + + +What ever works best for you is the way to go....." +"Hi I have a 1993 yamaha 85hp 2 stroke we changed water pump,rebuilt carbs, change lower oil, and ran new fuel. Compression is 100 on all 3 cylinders. Still dont know why I am getting white liquid substance on plugs. Boat sat for 4 years prior. Please help",Oh boy guess I have some looking to do thank you very much,Oh boy guess I have some looking to do thank you very much,https://www.yamahapubs.com/ +"Hi I have a 1993 yamaha 85hp 2 stroke we changed water pump,rebuilt carbs, change lower oil, and ran new fuel. Compression is 100 on all 3 cylinders. Still dont know why I am getting white liquid substance on plugs. Boat sat for 4 years prior. Please help",That's what my mechanic told me. I have water in one cylinder too. Hopefully it's the head gasket he is replacing this or next week. Fingers crossed.,That's what my mechanic told me. I have water in one cylinder too. Hopefully it's the head gasket he is replacing this or next week. Fingers crossed.,"""Thanks for everyones help , i + +""Thanks for everyones help , i pulled the drums again and the brakes are the type Kghost described .All was clean i think the grease i cleaned in the spring was fromm the previuos owner getting a liitle to happy with grease gun on the bearing buddys. Im looking at trailer depot for parts""" +"Hi I have a 1993 yamaha 85hp 2 stroke we changed water pump,rebuilt carbs, change lower oil, and ran new fuel. Compression is 100 on all 3 cylinders. Still dont know why I am getting white liquid substance on plugs. Boat sat for 4 years prior. Please help","480/277 said: + + + + That's what my mechanic told me. I have water in one cylinder too. Hopefully it's the head gasket he is replacing this or next week. Fingers crossed. + +Click to expand... + + +I hope for both our sakes lol","480/277 said: + + + + That's what my mechanic told me. I have water in one cylinder too. Hopefully it's the head gasket he is replacing this or next week. Fingers crossed. + +Click to expand... + + +I hope for both our sakes lol","That is the plan, I will be hauling it and blocking it on Monday for easier access." +"I just completed my lower unit oil change on my 2008 Yamaha 90hp TLR outboard. Upon completion, I noticed oil coming from the water intake on the lower unit. Is this normal or do I have a seal leak?","2 or 4 stroke, serial# might be helpful ,Was engine run before this issue?","2 or 4 stroke, serial# might be helpful ,Was engine run before this issue?","""I subscribe to the fewer the + +""I subscribe to the fewer the thru hull holes the better philosophy. One should make sure that the hose is rated for suction side service, i.e. wire reinforced and is the same size (I/D) as the inlet port on the raw water pump. In my case, the line is 1 1/4"" and everything from the pump to the thru hull is 1-1/4"". What is not obvious in the photos is that the thru hull fitting is of this type + +http://tinyurl.com/Bronze-thruHull + +And that the ""scoop/strainer"" is a bolt on, not part of the thru hull. If I had to do it over again, I'd get one where the strainer section could be removed for cleaning as every once in a great while, some wiley crustatian decides to take up residence inside the thruhull itself. + +Note: I'm not recommending Defender as I've never used them...but I've never heard a bad thing about them either...""" +"I just completed my lower unit oil change on my 2008 Yamaha 90hp TLR outboard. Upon completion, I noticed oil coming from the water intake on the lower unit. Is this normal or do I have a seal leak?","No matter the stroke/model/year, oil should not leak from intake. Bad seal.","No matter the stroke/model/year, oil should not leak from intake. Bad seal.","Thanks for the update, A lot of threads never get back to the forum with results,good to hear your running" +"I just completed my lower unit oil change on my 2008 Yamaha 90hp TLR outboard. Upon completion, I noticed oil coming from the water intake on the lower unit. Is this normal or do I have a seal leak?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + No matter the stroke/model/year, oil should not leak from intake. Bad seal. + +Click to expand... + +Thank you for confirming my suspicion.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + No matter the stroke/model/year, oil should not leak from intake. Bad seal. + +Click to expand... + +Thank you for confirming my suspicion.","Chris +Getting to the injectors was not a problem .Getting them out is another thing. I noticed a slot on the flange, using a screw driver had no results. I soaked them overnight with Blaster .None will move .Is there a special way that I'm not doing ? Do need a special pulling tool ?" +"Is there a trick to removing the deck fill hose and cap from the remote oil tank? I need to remove the oil tank in order to replace the oil transfer pump. Is the oil cap threaded on this type of tank? I do not see any clamps around the fill hose, but I didn't want to start pulling on the hose without knowing for sure how it comes off.","I have no idea what you referring to as the ""deck fill hose"". Look at the parts blow out for your tank below and reply back with the part # you're asking about. + +#28 is the grommet which secures the pump into the tank. To remove pump just pull it out of grommet. To isolate pump from oil pipes, remove clamps.","I have no idea what you referring to as the ""deck fill hose"". Look at the parts blow out for your tank below and reply back with the part # you're asking about. + +#28 is the grommet which secures the pump into the tank. To remove pump just pull it out of grommet. To isolate pump from oil pipes, remove clamps.","Had this on honda once, the fuel bowl vent on he vapour separator was blocked, as vacuum built up high pressure pump began starving, it a long shot but worth checking" +"How can I lock down a F 70 A Yamaha w/ power tilt and trim to prevent it from jumping out of the water. I drift the river a lot and I have to quickly back up sometimes to avoid obstacles. I cannot see any way to lock it down. the tilt and trim works fine, just cannot lock it for reverse.","You can't, the lock is controlled by the hydraulics on the tilt/trim. When you are quickly backing up the power of the motor is overriding the power of the tilt/trim. If it is riding completely out of the water you have a trim/tilt issue. The hydraulics aren't strong enough.","You can't, the lock is controlled by the hydraulics on the tilt/trim. When you are quickly backing up the power of the motor is overriding the power of the tilt/trim. If it is riding completely out of the water you have a trim/tilt issue. The hydraulics aren't strong enough.",i would replace the wing nuts if you have them with standard nuts...and throw an old or cheap box end wrench in the battery compartment..then when you are back there charging batteries etc check them for tightness as part of the routine...use anti corrosive on the terminals and you are set to go...good battery connections prevent all kind of potential problems such as wire crystallization etc... +"How can I lock down a F 70 A Yamaha w/ power tilt and trim to prevent it from jumping out of the water. I drift the river a lot and I have to quickly back up sometimes to avoid obstacles. I cannot see any way to lock it down. the tilt and trim works fine, just cannot lock it for reverse.",Thanks nccatfisher! I just bought the boat. The tilt and trim goes all the way up and down smooth and quite. Still there is the possibility that I was trying to go backward too fast or that the hydraulic fluid may be low.,Thanks nccatfisher! I just bought the boat. The tilt and trim goes all the way up and down smooth and quite. Still there is the possibility that I was trying to go backward too fast or that the hydraulic fluid may be low.,Fuel enrichment system blocking the venting of the carb fuel bowl. Remove hose from fuel enrichment bulb and start engine. +"Please help!! So the power tilt/trim unit will push the motor up but not hold. Have had minor leak from one trim piston for a year. Motor falls rapidly through tilt cylinder and significantly slows at trim cylinders, with no external leaking. Leads me to believe it could be something bad in the manual release valve. Tried to get the unit out and can not for the life of me figure out how the damn thing comes out. I feel like im pkaying with Yamaha's version of the rubics cube. Anyone remove one of these units before?! Any help much appreciated.",I would suggest a factory service manual for that model.,I would suggest a factory service manual for that model.,Voltage drop test the trim/oil harness. If you don't have your engines service manual now is reason to get one. Wire diagrams and instructions to diagnose electrical problems are included if you're not familiar with the procedure. My bet is on a bad ground. +"I Hi everyone, new to the forum and kind of new to boating also. +I recently had a 1990 yamaha 90hp 2 stroke installed on a bass boat, the motor runs great but I noticed some slicks behind the boat while trolling the other day. When I got home I realized that it was leaking some 2 stroke oil but not from the cap or the tank. I can’t figure out where it is coming from. I can only see where it is exiting, which is down the leg on the inside towards the boat. Also when I have it tilted up on the transom saver it comes out on the same side but right where the lower unit bolts to the leg. I’m not sure if it has anything to do with it but the mechanic I boat the motor from is who also installed it and he told me to add about a quart of oil to the tank when I fill it which seems weird since it is oil injected. Any help is appreciated","Oil stored in the oil reservoir is mechanically driven into the manifold. Oil is not delivered anywhere else. So you either have a leak coming from the tank or one or more of the hoses delivering oil to the manifold. + +The other causes could be a faulty oil check valve or the oil pump is not metered to spec, either of which causes excess oil to enter the manifold. When the engine is off and tilted up, normally the back pressure in the oil hose is held in check by the check valves. If a check valve is bad any pressure in the hose will cause oil to flow into manifold, excess oil. Depending on the tilt angle of engine, this excess oil flows out of carb throat and drips down into lower cowling, lower cowling into mid section and out where you've witnessed. + +To figure out where the cause of the leak/unchecked flow of oil, I'd first refer to your service manual on how to verify the oil pump is to spec. Then give a good cleaning/wipe down to oil tank, hoses, manifold. Run engine to normal operating temp, then maybe a few minutes more. Shut down, tilt engine up and watch for leaking oil. If you have a silencer over carbs, remove it before tilting engine up so you can see the carb throats. If you see oil dripping out of throat, one of the oil check valves is bad.","Oil stored in the oil reservoir is mechanically driven into the manifold. Oil is not delivered anywhere else. So you either have a leak coming from the tank or one or more of the hoses delivering oil to the manifold. + +The other causes could be a faulty oil check valve or the oil pump is not metered to spec, either of which causes excess oil to enter the manifold. When the engine is off and tilted up, normally the back pressure in the oil hose is held in check by the check valves. If a check valve is bad any pressure in the hose will cause oil to flow into manifold, excess oil. Depending on the tilt angle of engine, this excess oil flows out of carb throat and drips down into lower cowling, lower cowling into mid section and out where you've witnessed. + +To figure out where the cause of the leak/unchecked flow of oil, I'd first refer to your service manual on how to verify the oil pump is to spec. Then give a good cleaning/wipe down to oil tank, hoses, manifold. Run engine to normal operating temp, then maybe a few minutes more. Shut down, tilt engine up and watch for leaking oil. If you have a silencer over carbs, remove it before tilting engine up so you can see the carb throats. If you see oil dripping out of throat, one of the oil check valves is bad.","OliviaParcker said: + + + + Try to replace the fuel pump ... it shouldn't leak, I repeat. the comment above is really helpful + +Click to expand... + + +I didn’t notice this reply until now. In the meantime I had someone else say that the pump does leak if not clamped down so I didn’t replace it. I took the carbs off, took them apart, dipped them in chem dip, put them back together. + +found that someone put the wrong kind of hose and clamps on the middle carb. Was corroded and looked awful. I replaced them with oem parts. + +got It all back together. Idles great, but still doesn’t run like last year. Only gets up to 3700 wot, last year was 4200-5000. After running wot, it did die. It’s weird because after it dies, the boat acts as if the battery was dead. Barely had any life trying to start it. Thought I was stranded. After a couple minutes the boat starts right up. Drove it home at medium speed no problem. I still see more sheen of something in the water. + +I’m hesitant to replace the fuel pump since all 3 that I had access to leaked if they weren’t clamped down to the motor, but I’ll see if I can buy a new one tomorrow at the store if they have one. Maybe the fuel pump leaking can’t keep up at wot and it’s leaking gas into the motor where it gets it’s vacuum, and that’s what I’m seeing come out the exhaust?" +"I Hi everyone, new to the forum and kind of new to boating also. +I recently had a 1990 yamaha 90hp 2 stroke installed on a bass boat, the motor runs great but I noticed some slicks behind the boat while trolling the other day. When I got home I realized that it was leaking some 2 stroke oil but not from the cap or the tank. I can’t figure out where it is coming from. I can only see where it is exiting, which is down the leg on the inside towards the boat. Also when I have it tilted up on the transom saver it comes out on the same side but right where the lower unit bolts to the leg. I’m not sure if it has anything to do with it but the mechanic I boat the motor from is who also installed it and he told me to add about a quart of oil to the tank when I fill it which seems weird since it is oil injected. Any help is appreciated","Thanks for the reply, and thank you for giving me a starting point to figure this problem out","Thanks for the reply, and thank you for giving me a starting point to figure this problem out",Thanks all for the help. I solved both of the problems the engine seemed to be having. Replacing the pulse coil gave spark back to #6 and a new stator solved the runnability problem. Gets up and goes now. +"I Hi everyone, new to the forum and kind of new to boating also. +I recently had a 1990 yamaha 90hp 2 stroke installed on a bass boat, the motor runs great but I noticed some slicks behind the boat while trolling the other day. When I got home I realized that it was leaking some 2 stroke oil but not from the cap or the tank. I can’t figure out where it is coming from. I can only see where it is exiting, which is down the leg on the inside towards the boat. Also when I have it tilted up on the transom saver it comes out on the same side but right where the lower unit bolts to the leg. I’m not sure if it has anything to do with it but the mechanic I boat the motor from is who also installed it and he told me to add about a quart of oil to the tank when I fill it which seems weird since it is oil injected. Any help is appreciated",Would this also cause it to leak while the motor is running and not tilted up? If I don’t tilt the motor and run it on earmuffs it leaks oil out right where you can see in the pictures,Would this also cause it to leak while the motor is running and not tilted up? If I don’t tilt the motor and run it on earmuffs it leaks oil out right where you can see in the pictures,Normal +"I Hi everyone, new to the forum and kind of new to boating also. +I recently had a 1990 yamaha 90hp 2 stroke installed on a bass boat, the motor runs great but I noticed some slicks behind the boat while trolling the other day. When I got home I realized that it was leaking some 2 stroke oil but not from the cap or the tank. I can’t figure out where it is coming from. I can only see where it is exiting, which is down the leg on the inside towards the boat. Also when I have it tilted up on the transom saver it comes out on the same side but right where the lower unit bolts to the leg. I’m not sure if it has anything to do with it but the mechanic I boat the motor from is who also installed it and he told me to add about a quart of oil to the tank when I fill it which seems weird since it is oil injected. Any help is appreciated","Southpaw84 said: + + + + Would this also cause it to leak while the motor is running and not tilted up? If I don’t tilt the motor and run it on earmuffs it leaks oil out right where you can see in the pictures + +Click to expand... + + +Not sure what ""this"" is that you're referring to. If the cause of the oil leak is from that which contains the oil (reservoir, hoses), then it wouldn't matter the tilt angle of engine or whether it's on or off, it will just continue to leak from xyz. + +Is the bottom of the pan (lower cowling) covered with oil? When the mechanic/previous owner told you to add extra oil to reservoir, did you ask why?","Southpaw84 said: + + + + Would this also cause it to leak while the motor is running and not tilted up? If I don’t tilt the motor and run it on earmuffs it leaks oil out right where you can see in the pictures + +Click to expand... + + +Not sure what ""this"" is that you're referring to. If the cause of the oil leak is from that which contains the oil (reservoir, hoses), then it wouldn't matter the tilt angle of engine or whether it's on or off, it will just continue to leak from xyz. + +Is the bottom of the pan (lower cowling) covered with oil? When the mechanic/previous owner told you to add extra oil to reservoir, did you ask why?",I advise that you post your question on the Johnson/Evinrude forum on this site. +"I Hi everyone, new to the forum and kind of new to boating also. +I recently had a 1990 yamaha 90hp 2 stroke installed on a bass boat, the motor runs great but I noticed some slicks behind the boat while trolling the other day. When I got home I realized that it was leaking some 2 stroke oil but not from the cap or the tank. I can’t figure out where it is coming from. I can only see where it is exiting, which is down the leg on the inside towards the boat. Also when I have it tilted up on the transom saver it comes out on the same side but right where the lower unit bolts to the leg. I’m not sure if it has anything to do with it but the mechanic I boat the motor from is who also installed it and he told me to add about a quart of oil to the tank when I fill it which seems weird since it is oil injected. Any help is appreciated","I’m sorry, I thought I sent this through the other night...what I meant by “this” was a bad check valve(s). I don’t really see a lot of pooling up in the lower cowling. And I did ask the mechanic because it seemed odd and he told me it was because the motor is older and with the ethanol fuel around now the engine needs it. I didn’t question it at first too much because he says a 20 year yamaha tech","I’m sorry, I thought I sent this through the other night...what I meant by “this” was a bad check valve(s). I don’t really see a lot of pooling up in the lower cowling. And I did ask the mechanic because it seemed odd and he told me it was because the motor is older and with the ethanol fuel around now the engine needs it. I didn’t question it at first too much because he says a 20 year yamaha tech","That sounds like a plan. You should be able to see what's causing it. What type of boat? What type of hull - deep V, semi V? What is the beam?" +"I Hi everyone, new to the forum and kind of new to boating also. +I recently had a 1990 yamaha 90hp 2 stroke installed on a bass boat, the motor runs great but I noticed some slicks behind the boat while trolling the other day. When I got home I realized that it was leaking some 2 stroke oil but not from the cap or the tank. I can’t figure out where it is coming from. I can only see where it is exiting, which is down the leg on the inside towards the boat. Also when I have it tilted up on the transom saver it comes out on the same side but right where the lower unit bolts to the leg. I’m not sure if it has anything to do with it but the mechanic I boat the motor from is who also installed it and he told me to add about a quart of oil to the tank when I fill it which seems weird since it is oil injected. Any help is appreciated","Southpaw84 said: + + + + And I did ask the mechanic because it seemed odd and he told me it was because the motor is older and with the ethanol fuel around now the engine needs it. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, a bad check valve will cause oil to leak out of the contained oil/fuel system. + +Let's just say your mechanic's theory of the engine's age being the reason it requires more oil than Yamaha recommends, and because more oil has been added, this is the reason the engine is leaking oil. My question is, would this extra oil to fuel ratio result in oil leaking OUT of the oil/fuel system and onto the outer shell of mid section? I guess what I'm saying is you could add oil at a ratio of 10:1 and you still shouldn't see oil outside of the oil/fuel system...a dark smokey exhaust, yeah sure. + +The theory of adding extra oil to the fuel for 2 strokes is just that, a theory. But it's one I understand, and I don't believe adding a little extra oil to these older engines could hurt at all. Be that as it may, adding the extra oil shouldn't result in an oil leak. Something to think about.","Southpaw84 said: + + + + And I did ask the mechanic because it seemed odd and he told me it was because the motor is older and with the ethanol fuel around now the engine needs it. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, a bad check valve will cause oil to leak out of the contained oil/fuel system. + +Let's just say your mechanic's theory of the engine's age being the reason it requires more oil than Yamaha recommends, and because more oil has been added, this is the reason the engine is leaking oil. My question is, would this extra oil to fuel ratio result in oil leaking OUT of the oil/fuel system and onto the outer shell of mid section? I guess what I'm saying is you could add oil at a ratio of 10:1 and you still shouldn't see oil outside of the oil/fuel system...a dark smokey exhaust, yeah sure. + +The theory of adding extra oil to the fuel for 2 strokes is just that, a theory. But it's one I understand, and I don't believe adding a little extra oil to these older engines could hurt at all. Be that as it may, adding the extra oil shouldn't result in an oil leak. Something to think about.","Ayuh,... Is it full of oil,..?? + +Is it binding up,..??" +"I Hi everyone, new to the forum and kind of new to boating also. +I recently had a 1990 yamaha 90hp 2 stroke installed on a bass boat, the motor runs great but I noticed some slicks behind the boat while trolling the other day. When I got home I realized that it was leaking some 2 stroke oil but not from the cap or the tank. I can’t figure out where it is coming from. I can only see where it is exiting, which is down the leg on the inside towards the boat. Also when I have it tilted up on the transom saver it comes out on the same side but right where the lower unit bolts to the leg. I’m not sure if it has anything to do with it but the mechanic I boat the motor from is who also installed it and he told me to add about a quart of oil to the tank when I fill it which seems weird since it is oil injected. Any help is appreciated","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Yes, a bad check valve will cause oil to leak out of the contained oil/fuel system. + +Let's just say your mechanic's theory of the engine's age being the reason it requires more oil than Yamaha recommends, and because more oil has been added, this is the reason the engine is leaking oil. My question is, would this extra oil to fuel ratio result in oil leaking OUT of the oil/fuel system and onto the outer shell of mid section? I guess what I'm saying is you could add oil at a ratio of 10:1 and you still shouldn't see oil outside of the oil/fuel system...a dark smokey exhaust, yeah sure. + +The theory of adding extra oil to the fuel for 2 strokes is just that, a theory. But it's one I understand, and I don't believe adding a little extra oil to these older engines could hurt at all. Be that as it may, adding the extra oil shouldn't result in an oil leak. Something to think about. + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah I understand what you are saying, I’m just trying to cover all bases at this point. I’m going to put new clamps on any of the hoses coming from and going to the oil tank and probably replace the three check valves. Then I’ll go from there. Thank you for your help","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Yes, a bad check valve will cause oil to leak out of the contained oil/fuel system. + +Let's just say your mechanic's theory of the engine's age being the reason it requires more oil than Yamaha recommends, and because more oil has been added, this is the reason the engine is leaking oil. My question is, would this extra oil to fuel ratio result in oil leaking OUT of the oil/fuel system and onto the outer shell of mid section? I guess what I'm saying is you could add oil at a ratio of 10:1 and you still shouldn't see oil outside of the oil/fuel system...a dark smokey exhaust, yeah sure. + +The theory of adding extra oil to the fuel for 2 strokes is just that, a theory. But it's one I understand, and I don't believe adding a little extra oil to these older engines could hurt at all. Be that as it may, adding the extra oil shouldn't result in an oil leak. Something to think about. + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah I understand what you are saying, I’m just trying to cover all bases at this point. I’m going to put new clamps on any of the hoses coming from and going to the oil tank and probably replace the three check valves. Then I’ll go from there. Thank you for your help","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Does the wire go into the loop? Can you strip it back a little and solder on another lug connector? + +Click to expand... + + +Nah. Its to far gone. I was wondering how important that earth was because it seems to have been like this for sometime" +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia","Starting batteries (cranking) are designed to discharge a large amount of energy for a short period, which is why these batteries are ideal for starting engines. Deep cycle batteries are designed to discharge a small amount of energy over a long period. It's a matter of choice of which and how many accessory loads you tie to a battery. Be that as it may, I choose to use what I'll call logic when deciding which accessory to tie to which battery. I personally do not load any accessory to my cranking battery. If you were to tie an accessory that you use with the engine off (stereo, depth finder, etc.) and you use too much ""juice"" while the engine is off, you won't have enough juice to start the engine. + +In essence, if you have battery powered accessories on your vessel then 2 batteries should be the minimum number of batteries you keep on board...1 cranking battery and 1 deep cycle battery. How about if you have a 24v trolling motor on your vessel...this would indicate the need of 3 batteries...1 crank and 2 deep cycle.","Starting batteries (cranking) are designed to discharge a large amount of energy for a short period, which is why these batteries are ideal for starting engines. Deep cycle batteries are designed to discharge a small amount of energy over a long period. It's a matter of choice of which and how many accessory loads you tie to a battery. Be that as it may, I choose to use what I'll call logic when deciding which accessory to tie to which battery. I personally do not load any accessory to my cranking battery. If you were to tie an accessory that you use with the engine off (stereo, depth finder, etc.) and you use too much ""juice"" while the engine is off, you won't have enough juice to start the engine. + +In essence, if you have battery powered accessories on your vessel then 2 batteries should be the minimum number of batteries you keep on board...1 cranking battery and 1 deep cycle battery. How about if you have a 24v trolling motor on your vessel...this would indicate the need of 3 batteries...1 crank and 2 deep cycle.","Thanks for the tips, I actually haven't opened the fuel pump, soon...." +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia","Thanks for your reply.My accessories are turned off when the motor is off, so hopefully my alternator puts out enough juice for both battery charging and running the lowrance. Thinking of ditching the stereo anyway.","Thanks for your reply.My accessories are turned off when the motor is off, so hopefully my alternator puts out enough juice for both battery charging and running the lowrance. Thinking of ditching the stereo anyway.","Leodan said: + + + + Thanks for the warning. Would that be likely, even though they have never seen water? + +Click to expand... + + + +It has nothing to do with use, just the time the impeller is compressed into the housing." +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia",What does the OEM service manual recommend? Neither the gps or sterio use that much power anyways. If you decide to go with a maint free or deep cycle battery do your engine a favor and add a high amp draw appliance you can run while the engine is running to use up the excess power produced at high RPM. A refrigerated ice chest is always a nice addition to a boat. Add a volt meter you can monitor the charging system if not present. Anything over 15 volts must be addresses. Adding appliances is the best solution not taking them away.,What does the OEM service manual recommend? Neither the gps or sterio use that much power anyways. If you decide to go with a maint free or deep cycle battery do your engine a favor and add a high amp draw appliance you can run while the engine is running to use up the excess power produced at high RPM. A refrigerated ice chest is always a nice addition to a boat. Add a volt meter you can monitor the charging system if not present. Anything over 15 volts must be addresses. Adding appliances is the best solution not taking them away.,"racerone said: + + + + When you are testing in a bucket water MUST be above the impeller to prime it.----A boat underway is totally different. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks! Appreciate it. I'll give it a whirl. +Cheers" +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia","Bought the boat used last summer, so I do not have any manuals . (will look online ). Currently the boat has a short somewhere, so plan on redoing a lot of the wiring (which is a mess) and relocating a starter battery up front. I bought a Volt meter that I will also install. Hoping to keep things as light as possible on the boat as everything on it is quite light and it drives like a sports car (MC Barefoot 200)","Bought the boat used last summer, so I do not have any manuals . (will look online ). Currently the boat has a short somewhere, so plan on redoing a lot of the wiring (which is a mess) and relocating a starter battery up front. I bought a Volt meter that I will also install. Hoping to keep things as light as possible on the boat as everything on it is quite light and it drives like a sports car (MC Barefoot 200)","I have a correction to make to the above post. The link for Picture 5 is incorrect and duplicated with Picture 4. +Picture 5 is supposed to be this: http://thealdensorg.dyndns.org/boat...tingSurfaceCorrosion_20190527_191840_Port.jpg + +Thanks." +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia",Not sure why you want the battery up in the bow it will get shook around alot more especially on a plaining hull. If you do you need to up the cable size substancially depending on length?,Not sure why you want the battery up in the bow it will get shook around alot more especially on a plaining hull. If you do you need to up the cable size substancially depending on length?,"There are a few things to check here. The service manual will give you all the specifications you are looking for, readmanuals.com is a good source of these. Take a look at the gap between the timing lobes and the pulser coil. Also check the output voltage of the pulser coil once you have adjusted the gap. Use a DVA adapter with your multimeter to check the voltage from the CDI to the ignition coils. Check the resistance of the high tension leads connecting the coils to the plugs, and finally check/ change the plugs. This should give you a complete end-to-end test of the ignition system to see where it is going wrong. + +Stuart" +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia","Moving weight up front and running a half tank of fuel or less will hopefully further reduce the wake at speeds I am comfortable running. It has an amazing wake at higher speeds (For barefooting) but more than I'd like sub 30 MPH. If you have any tips on this issue, that would be much appreciated. I noticed that a local water ski school also running the Yamaha Pro V on Barefoot 200s has their motor mounted two settings higher on the transom than mine (currently at the lowest setting) +Thanks.","Moving weight up front and running a half tank of fuel or less will hopefully further reduce the wake at speeds I am comfortable running. It has an amazing wake at higher speeds (For barefooting) but more than I'd like sub 30 MPH. If you have any tips on this issue, that would be much appreciated. I noticed that a local water ski school also running the Yamaha Pro V on Barefoot 200s has their motor mounted two settings higher on the transom than mine (currently at the lowest setting) +Thanks.","run a 2 micron filter from rac + +run a 2 micron filter from racor it works" +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia","Nucad said: + + + + Thanks for your reply.My accessories are turned off when the motor is off, so hopefully my alternator puts out enough juice for both battery charging and running the lowrance. Thinking of ditching the stereo anyway. + +Click to expand... + + + +I'm assuming you turn key ON/engine off when using stereo or other accessories? If so, be aware that you don't have accessories ON for an extended period of time with engine off. Every amp that was used to power accessories with engine off are amps no longer available to crank engine. + +I agree with Kim ^^^. Moving battery the length of vessel away from the engine makes things more complicated. If the battery is currently located at the rear of the vessel and you moved it forward towards/under console...good idea. If the battery is currently located under/near console and you move it forward to bow...bad idea. The headache of running bigger and longer cables makes shifting the battery forward not worth the effort or result.","Nucad said: + + + + Thanks for your reply.My accessories are turned off when the motor is off, so hopefully my alternator puts out enough juice for both battery charging and running the lowrance. Thinking of ditching the stereo anyway. + +Click to expand... + + + +I'm assuming you turn key ON/engine off when using stereo or other accessories? If so, be aware that you don't have accessories ON for an extended period of time with engine off. Every amp that was used to power accessories with engine off are amps no longer available to crank engine. + +I agree with Kim ^^^. Moving battery the length of vessel away from the engine makes things more complicated. If the battery is currently located at the rear of the vessel and you moved it forward towards/under console...good idea. If the battery is currently located under/near console and you move it forward to bow...bad idea. The headache of running bigger and longer cables makes shifting the battery forward not worth the effort or result.","if you have an old trailer and you are rewiring it, its prudent to run dedicated ground wires to the lights.... + +if you have a good meter, you can measure the voltage drop across each connection on the trailer and find the issue.... + +you can also connect one of the new units directly to the truck plug to make sure the truck wiring is still sound...." +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia",Battery is currently at the rear of the boat with the fuel tank and oil tank. I was thinking of moving it under the console.,Battery is currently at the rear of the boat with the fuel tank and oil tank. I was thinking of moving it under the console.,"Hello Myles. If the blower assembly is spinning freely it is of some value as it retails for about $600. in Canada, and the control box for about the same. If the heat exchanger still has an unwarped flame guide(the small doughnut shaped ring that the flame goes through), and the clips for the lier are still mainly intact, then it is of value. again, about $700. +I would put it on for a $1-$200 bucks, alot cheaper than buying a new one for someone that needs one of those and has little funds .You never know, you might get a bite. But it may not be worth your time." +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia","Good move nucad ,I would still run a larger gauge cable from battery to engine","Good move nucad ,I would still run a larger gauge cable from battery to engine","Are these F150's/F115's we are talking about or two stroke 150's/115's? + +I love it when we have no idea the model of the motor that is being discussed." +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia","johnnygjr said: + + + + Good move nucad ,I would still run a larger gauge cable from battery to engine + +Click to expand... + +Yes, that makes sense. I'll get some longer cables made up ifI relocate the battery.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Good move nucad ,I would still run a larger gauge cable from battery to engine + +Click to expand... + +Yes, that makes sense. I'll get some longer cables made up ifI relocate the battery.","you're gonna have to replace the cable... + +if you really like the boat, consider upgrading to a hydraulic steering system...you'll find it a true joy to use. + +BTW, Welcome to ME.com!" +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia","Nucad, you can buy the cables and terminal connecters and make them yourself, thus saving $$$$:rolleyes:","Nucad, you can buy the cables and terminal connecters and make them yourself, thus saving $$$$:rolleyes:",Got a model # ???? +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia",Be sure and use marine grade tinned cable.,Be sure and use marine grade tinned cable.,"I was thinking the same , If my start battery happens to be low I could put jumper cables under a seat and use the deep cycle to start. They are both new batteries so if I keep them charged I should never need to jump or use a switch." +"Need to buy a new battery for my ski boat. It used to have a deep cycle, which I am told was wrong for it and hard on the charging system. AM I best to stick with the starting battery only? or do the combination ones offer any benefit? I have a Lowrance GPS and depth finder on the boat as well as a stereo. + +Tia","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Be sure and use marine grade tinned cable. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, the local Marine Mart store carries that.","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Be sure and use marine grade tinned cable. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, the local Marine Mart store carries that.",not including repower and new trailer +"Hi - I have a F150C 4 stroke Yamaha on my bass boat and have trouble with it hesitating under load. As I apply throttle from a start it bogs down around half throttle. If I back off and very slowly throttle up and/or wait for the boat to eventually get on a plane I can get it going, after which it runs fine at wide open throttle. I'm thinking fuel starvation and/or water in fuel, but when I checked the filter it's clean and theres no water in the clear plastic filter bowl. There was some air in the top of the bowl, don't know if that's normal. + +One thing I noticed when I replaced the filter is that the fuel line bulb does not pump fuel. I squeezed it repeatedly to try to pump gas thru to fill the filter bowl but only air came out. Seems like this isn't right, isn't there supposed to be a one-way check valve that lets the bulb pump fuel? Perhaps this is bad and/or I have an air leak in the line somewhere? I could imagine this could somehow lead to fuel starvation on acceleration. + +There is gas in the tank! +thx","Replace the squeeze ball and make sure you are not sucking air....If problem continues, it might be time to service the VST and injectors.","Replace the squeeze ball and make sure you are not sucking air....If problem continues, it might be time to service the VST and injectors.",what does cdi say the ohm readings should be? +"Hi - I have a F150C 4 stroke Yamaha on my bass boat and have trouble with it hesitating under load. As I apply throttle from a start it bogs down around half throttle. If I back off and very slowly throttle up and/or wait for the boat to eventually get on a plane I can get it going, after which it runs fine at wide open throttle. I'm thinking fuel starvation and/or water in fuel, but when I checked the filter it's clean and theres no water in the clear plastic filter bowl. There was some air in the top of the bowl, don't know if that's normal. + +One thing I noticed when I replaced the filter is that the fuel line bulb does not pump fuel. I squeezed it repeatedly to try to pump gas thru to fill the filter bowl but only air came out. Seems like this isn't right, isn't there supposed to be a one-way check valve that lets the bulb pump fuel? Perhaps this is bad and/or I have an air leak in the line somewhere? I could imagine this could somehow lead to fuel starvation on acceleration. + +There is gas in the tank! +thx","Resurrecting this - I finally put the boat in the water after replacing the squeeze ball and have the same problem. Flat spot on acceleration, but no problem running full out once I get going. I called a local shop where I will take it but they can't see it for several weeks. The technician said that it might be due to gumming up of the carbs due to my not spraying them with something before laying it up for the winter. Any idea what he meant? Can I do anything to try to clean that myself before taking it in? thanks","Resurrecting this - I finally put the boat in the water after replacing the squeeze ball and have the same problem. Flat spot on acceleration, but no problem running full out once I get going. I called a local shop where I will take it but they can't see it for several weeks. The technician said that it might be due to gumming up of the carbs due to my not spraying them with something before laying it up for the winter. Any idea what he meant? Can I do anything to try to clean that myself before taking it in? thanks","2.) For the bottom one - I would like for it to seal against the transom in both the inside and outside of the boat. The outside for obvious reasons, and the inside so water that sits in the bottom of the sump (there is always a little bit that the pump can't get to) doesn't get into the transom. I was thinking a threaded bulkhead style one. Is that an accepted drain style for that part of the boat? I wonder if I would be able to find one that would also still fit that rubber plug? + +Click to expand... + +Ayuh,..... You'll be way ahead to just butter up the insides of the hole to seal up the wood, 'n screw on a screw-in garboard plug flange on the outside, like most higher end hulls use,...." +"New guy here, newer boat, all was well until today. + +[FONT=Verdana,Arial]I have a 2015 Yamaha F115 outboard on my boat. If it has 80 hours on it I'd be shocked. + +Purchased boat and engine in May 2016. May of last year drained the OEM oil, new OEM oil (5w30 syn), new OEM oil filter. Ran great all last summer. Put it up in a friends outbuilding for this past winter as is. It was cold in there, but protected. + +Two weeks ago I change the oil. Looked good, no issues that I could see. Again, OEM oil and filter. + +Test it today on the water. Low oil horn screaming and oil filter making a hell of a racket. + +Get it back to the house, remove oil filter (thinking I got a bad one) and there's a sticky goey substance all in it. Similar to gasket material. I clean it out, new oil filter, same thing when I run it. + +Ok, I've got an issue. Drain the oil and I'm getting these strings of what is like caulk or silicone. Add some motor flush, oil, run it, same thing. Drain it and it's slow, look in the drain hole and there's gobs of this crap that was on the oil filter. I start pulling it out, literally, like taffy. Oil colored, sticky as all crap, over and over. + +I pulled as much as I could out by hand and have an entire can of Sea Foam just soaking in there now. + +If gelled oil, I'm surprised considering the very low time on the oil and that it was Yamaha oil. + +So now I'm thinking the oil gelled/froze over winter. And it's at the bottom of the oil pan/sump and each time I go to run the engine it sucks it up. Correct diagnosis? If so, how to get it all out? Lots of Sea Foam and oil changes this summer? + +Thank you. +[/FONT]",Oil does not gel at freezing temperatures. The motor should be under warranty. Why isn't a dealer fixing the problem?,Oil does not gel at freezing temperatures. The motor should be under warranty. Why isn't a dealer fixing the problem?,"Thank you .I understand tge fuel side of the cooler routing. +My question is on the water side of the fuel cooler. +Where should the water line that serves the top of the cooler be connected to allow water to circulate? It being plugged doesnt make sense. +So, where does the water line that serves the top of the fuel cooler come from? +As mentioned in the original post, the water line from the bottom of the fuel cooler is connected to the same port that the water hose flush system is connected to where they meet the block on the starbiard side below the oil filter. + +So, the water that serves the fuel cooler must come from somewhere and then go somewhere. +One of those two locations is as mentioned above, below the fuel filter where it is connected to the garden hose flush line and then enters the block . +The second location is where? + +Thank you" +"New guy here, newer boat, all was well until today. + +[FONT=Verdana,Arial]I have a 2015 Yamaha F115 outboard on my boat. If it has 80 hours on it I'd be shocked. + +Purchased boat and engine in May 2016. May of last year drained the OEM oil, new OEM oil (5w30 syn), new OEM oil filter. Ran great all last summer. Put it up in a friends outbuilding for this past winter as is. It was cold in there, but protected. + +Two weeks ago I change the oil. Looked good, no issues that I could see. Again, OEM oil and filter. + +Test it today on the water. Low oil horn screaming and oil filter making a hell of a racket. + +Get it back to the house, remove oil filter (thinking I got a bad one) and there's a sticky goey substance all in it. Similar to gasket material. I clean it out, new oil filter, same thing when I run it. + +Ok, I've got an issue. Drain the oil and I'm getting these strings of what is like caulk or silicone. Add some motor flush, oil, run it, same thing. Drain it and it's slow, look in the drain hole and there's gobs of this crap that was on the oil filter. I start pulling it out, literally, like taffy. Oil colored, sticky as all crap, over and over. + +I pulled as much as I could out by hand and have an entire can of Sea Foam just soaking in there now. + +If gelled oil, I'm surprised considering the very low time on the oil and that it was Yamaha oil. + +So now I'm thinking the oil gelled/froze over winter. And it's at the bottom of the oil pan/sump and each time I go to run the engine it sucks it up. Correct diagnosis? If so, how to get it all out? Lots of Sea Foam and oil changes this summer? + +Thank you. +[/FONT]","Thanks and I agree. Something went wrong with oil somewhere. No receipts for the oil from last year, etc. + +Ended up doing 5 oil changes (I had cheap dino oil around for another project) and 3 filter changes. Pulling out the goop out of the drain port over and over. The Sea Foam soak helped a little. Last oil change was with 16oz of Motor Clean. On the third change the air locking of the oil filter stopped and the low oil horn didn't sound. Ran it up between 2 - 3K RPM's on and off to heat things up and break up what little of the goop was left. + +The 4th and 5th changes ran w/o issue, no locking up in the oil filter, no low oil horn. Ran it nice and long with the last two changes to really get things moving and make sure it was OK. Drained it, went and got some Yamaha 4M and a new marine oil filter, installed and ran again. No issues. Held my breath, hooked up and went to the lake. No issues throughout the power range all the way up to WOT. + +Saved three samples of the goop and I'm going to take it to the dealer next week. This just wasn't right. I've changed oil for over 30 years in boats, aircraft and numerous vehicles, I've never seen anything like this, even with my previous 4 stroke O/B. My brother (life long mechanic) thinks the syn oil sitting over winter make have broke down. If so, that really sucks for $60 a gallon oil. + +We'll see. Engine is back and I can get on the water finally.","Thanks and I agree. Something went wrong with oil somewhere. No receipts for the oil from last year, etc. + +Ended up doing 5 oil changes (I had cheap dino oil around for another project) and 3 filter changes. Pulling out the goop out of the drain port over and over. The Sea Foam soak helped a little. Last oil change was with 16oz of Motor Clean. On the third change the air locking of the oil filter stopped and the low oil horn didn't sound. Ran it up between 2 - 3K RPM's on and off to heat things up and break up what little of the goop was left. + +The 4th and 5th changes ran w/o issue, no locking up in the oil filter, no low oil horn. Ran it nice and long with the last two changes to really get things moving and make sure it was OK. Drained it, went and got some Yamaha 4M and a new marine oil filter, installed and ran again. No issues. Held my breath, hooked up and went to the lake. No issues throughout the power range all the way up to WOT. + +Saved three samples of the goop and I'm going to take it to the dealer next week. This just wasn't right. I've changed oil for over 30 years in boats, aircraft and numerous vehicles, I've never seen anything like this, even with my previous 4 stroke O/B. My brother (life long mechanic) thinks the syn oil sitting over winter make have broke down. If so, that really sucks for $60 a gallon oil. + +We'll see. Engine is back and I can get on the water finally.","An update, the engine worked great for two test runs and about an additional 20 minutes before acting up again, back to limited rpm at 3000. Checked sync and link appeared either on or close. Idle seems too slow and will stall now. Observe the only way for the engine to start is to engage the choke. Yamaha master tech suggested a intermittant cdi problem. Owner doesnt want to pay for more parts and feels the other expensive parts didnt solve anything." +"New guy here, newer boat, all was well until today. + +[FONT=Verdana,Arial]I have a 2015 Yamaha F115 outboard on my boat. If it has 80 hours on it I'd be shocked. + +Purchased boat and engine in May 2016. May of last year drained the OEM oil, new OEM oil (5w30 syn), new OEM oil filter. Ran great all last summer. Put it up in a friends outbuilding for this past winter as is. It was cold in there, but protected. + +Two weeks ago I change the oil. Looked good, no issues that I could see. Again, OEM oil and filter. + +Test it today on the water. Low oil horn screaming and oil filter making a hell of a racket. + +Get it back to the house, remove oil filter (thinking I got a bad one) and there's a sticky goey substance all in it. Similar to gasket material. I clean it out, new oil filter, same thing when I run it. + +Ok, I've got an issue. Drain the oil and I'm getting these strings of what is like caulk or silicone. Add some motor flush, oil, run it, same thing. Drain it and it's slow, look in the drain hole and there's gobs of this crap that was on the oil filter. I start pulling it out, literally, like taffy. Oil colored, sticky as all crap, over and over. + +I pulled as much as I could out by hand and have an entire can of Sea Foam just soaking in there now. + +If gelled oil, I'm surprised considering the very low time on the oil and that it was Yamaha oil. + +So now I'm thinking the oil gelled/froze over winter. And it's at the bottom of the oil pan/sump and each time I go to run the engine it sucks it up. Correct diagnosis? If so, how to get it all out? Lots of Sea Foam and oil changes this summer? + +Thank you. +[/FONT]","I did take the samples to the service guy at the dealer today. He was stumped too, said he'd never seen that. I can't imagine what got in there. + +After two days on the water running the snot out of it, no issues at all. Will probably run it for another few weeks, do another change and hope all is well.","I did take the samples to the service guy at the dealer today. He was stumped too, said he'd never seen that. I can't imagine what got in there. + +After two days on the water running the snot out of it, no issues at all. Will probably run it for another few weeks, do another change and hope all is well.",Normal because you ran it for 5-10 minutes the motor does not get warm enough to burn all the fuel mix off. You probably would not have noticed it if you didn't run it to flush it. Otherwise perfectly normal for a two stroke outboard +"I have a 2003 200 hp Yamaha Vmax 3.1 L fuel injected ob. While I was running on the water ,the constant alarm that I believe is the oil alarm went off. The oil in the resorvoir was low and I refilled it. The alarm stopped. It came back on a few minutes later. If I trim the engine up so the prop is just under the water it runs with no alarm. If I drop it down lower ,it alarms. Any ideas? There is water coming out.","The low oil warning is the same sound as for the over temperature warning. + +The reservoir that sets the low oil warning is the main oil tank on the motor. You should not have to refill it. It should be refilled automatically. + +A Yamaha tachometer will tell you if the alarm is for low oil or excessive temperature. + +Water from the tell tale is not the same water that cools the motor.","The low oil warning is the same sound as for the over temperature warning. + +The reservoir that sets the low oil warning is the main oil tank on the motor. You should not have to refill it. It should be refilled automatically. + +A Yamaha tachometer will tell you if the alarm is for low oil or excessive temperature. + +Water from the tell tale is not the same water that cools the motor.","Well, I used both kinds because of my inexperience!! When I went to home depot and bought the fiberglass cloth, the salesperson said i should get the fiberglass resin...on the shelf next to the cloth..." +"Alright so I have a 1986 pro v 150 on a 90s model procraft bass boat. The trouble I'm having is the boat runs fine on the muffs sitting the yard give it gas seems to do fine with the arm I never put it in gear and revved it.. But on the water it also idles fine but once you get to moving to put it under a load it doesn't rev past around 2-3 rpms. It will not get up on plane it's not really bogging down or surging just reaches that rpm and will not go anymore. + I cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, fuel filter, new primer bowl, new plugs. I checked it's getting spark. took it out. It's doing the samn thing it did before. I even tried a different prop didn't change anything. I did notice the boat got low on gas and hit a wave it would take off to wide open throttle but died right back off again. + Is there any suggestions what else could be done. possobly just rebuild the carbs instead of trying to clean them? Possibly stator? Any suggestion or even knowing what it is would be helpful. + Thanks a lot in advance!!","They all roar and sound just fine on the trailer.----The motor does not need to do any work !----Compression test needs to be done.----Have you maintained the water pump ?-----Does spark jump a gap of 1 cm or better on all leads, yes or no ?-----How long have you owned this unit ?---Did the problem show up suddenly ?","They all roar and sound just fine on the trailer.----The motor does not need to do any work !----Compression test needs to be done.----Have you maintained the water pump ?-----Does spark jump a gap of 1 cm or better on all leads, yes or no ?-----How long have you owned this unit ?---Did the problem show up suddenly ?","Try a hot air gun...also known as a heat gun or a shirnk wrap gun. + +just go slow and vary the heat setting and/or distance. remember, you can always keep the gun on a bit longer to ""add"" heat but you can never ""take it away"" once something start to burn. + +If the local high school has a votech/career center, check in there...the teacher may be able to use your ""task"" as a real world project." +"Alright so I have a 1986 pro v 150 on a 90s model procraft bass boat. The trouble I'm having is the boat runs fine on the muffs sitting the yard give it gas seems to do fine with the arm I never put it in gear and revved it.. But on the water it also idles fine but once you get to moving to put it under a load it doesn't rev past around 2-3 rpms. It will not get up on plane it's not really bogging down or surging just reaches that rpm and will not go anymore. + I cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, fuel filter, new primer bowl, new plugs. I checked it's getting spark. took it out. It's doing the samn thing it did before. I even tried a different prop didn't change anything. I did notice the boat got low on gas and hit a wave it would take off to wide open throttle but died right back off again. + Is there any suggestions what else could be done. possobly just rebuild the carbs instead of trying to clean them? Possibly stator? Any suggestion or even knowing what it is would be helpful. + Thanks a lot in advance!!","I haven't had the boat very long, I bought it from a guy claimed it needed carbs cleaned I took it out then clean the carbs and it continued to do the same thing. That's when I noticed it got low on gas and hit a wave it took off. Checked vents to tanks. I did a compression test when I first got it. But off hand I can't remember the number but it seemed to test fine. I just checked to make sure it was sparking I didn't check the gap. the water pump is pushing water out so I figured it was fine.","I haven't had the boat very long, I bought it from a guy claimed it needed carbs cleaned I took it out then clean the carbs and it continued to do the same thing. That's when I noticed it got low on gas and hit a wave it took off. Checked vents to tanks. I did a compression test when I first got it. But off hand I can't remember the number but it seemed to test fine. I just checked to make sure it was sparking I didn't check the gap. the water pump is pushing water out so I figured it was fine.","racerone said: + + + + Outboard motors are really well built.--------------Owners find new ways to damage them every day. + +Click to expand... + + +Please dont hold back, please explain further of what you believie could be the mechanical root cause to this damage." +"Alright so I have a 1986 pro v 150 on a 90s model procraft bass boat. The trouble I'm having is the boat runs fine on the muffs sitting the yard give it gas seems to do fine with the arm I never put it in gear and revved it.. But on the water it also idles fine but once you get to moving to put it under a load it doesn't rev past around 2-3 rpms. It will not get up on plane it's not really bogging down or surging just reaches that rpm and will not go anymore. + I cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, fuel filter, new primer bowl, new plugs. I checked it's getting spark. took it out. It's doing the samn thing it did before. I even tried a different prop didn't change anything. I did notice the boat got low on gas and hit a wave it would take off to wide open throttle but died right back off again. + Is there any suggestions what else could be done. possobly just rebuild the carbs instead of trying to clean them? Possibly stator? Any suggestion or even knowing what it is would be helpful. + Thanks a lot in advance!!","What did your ""carb cleaning"" include?....what did you do","What did your ""carb cleaning"" include?....what did you do","I don't know if it's required or not...but why wouldn't you want one? Say the boat gets rained in and you don't have a battery handy... + + +Do it right and keep the drain." +"Alright so I have a 1986 pro v 150 on a 90s model procraft bass boat. The trouble I'm having is the boat runs fine on the muffs sitting the yard give it gas seems to do fine with the arm I never put it in gear and revved it.. But on the water it also idles fine but once you get to moving to put it under a load it doesn't rev past around 2-3 rpms. It will not get up on plane it's not really bogging down or surging just reaches that rpm and will not go anymore. + I cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, fuel filter, new primer bowl, new plugs. I checked it's getting spark. took it out. It's doing the samn thing it did before. I even tried a different prop didn't change anything. I did notice the boat got low on gas and hit a wave it would take off to wide open throttle but died right back off again. + Is there any suggestions what else could be done. possobly just rebuild the carbs instead of trying to clean them? Possibly stator? Any suggestion or even knowing what it is would be helpful. + Thanks a lot in advance!!","Well I pulled each carb off and took them apart, cleaned the jets, took the floats out and needle valves out. Pretty took them completely apart and cleaned everything and put it back together. It's possible I could have missed something but I think i cleaned them pretty good","Well I pulled each carb off and took them apart, cleaned the jets, took the floats out and needle valves out. Pretty took them completely apart and cleaned everything and put it back together. It's possible I could have missed something but I think i cleaned them pretty good","I know it's an old thread, but for anyone having this issue (like I did when I first got YDS), this might be useful. + +You have to configure one of your laptop's USB ports for communication. It's hard to tell from the list in the Device Manager, but just plug in the cable to one of the ports, turn the key to the ON position, then go to Start Menu > (search) Device Manager. In the Device Manager, go to 'View > Show Hidden Devices'. Then under 'Ports (COM & LPT)' in the Device Manager list, you should see ""USB Serial Port"". Right click on that, and select 'Properties > Port Settings > Advanced', and find the 'COM Port Number'. It's probably set to COM1. Try changing it to COM2, COM3, and so on (i.e. however many USB ports your laptop has), then click Ok. Each time you change it, re-launch the YDIS application and unplug/reconnect the cable from the laptop. That works for me on both Windows 7 and 10. I would expect Vista to also work." +"Alright so I have a 1986 pro v 150 on a 90s model procraft bass boat. The trouble I'm having is the boat runs fine on the muffs sitting the yard give it gas seems to do fine with the arm I never put it in gear and revved it.. But on the water it also idles fine but once you get to moving to put it under a load it doesn't rev past around 2-3 rpms. It will not get up on plane it's not really bogging down or surging just reaches that rpm and will not go anymore. + I cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, fuel filter, new primer bowl, new plugs. I checked it's getting spark. took it out. It's doing the samn thing it did before. I even tried a different prop didn't change anything. I did notice the boat got low on gas and hit a wave it would take off to wide open throttle but died right back off again. + Is there any suggestions what else could be done. possobly just rebuild the carbs instead of trying to clean them? Possibly stator? Any suggestion or even knowing what it is would be helpful. + Thanks a lot in advance!!","Did you check the fuel pumps? When bogging down, try to squeeze the primer build, see if that makes a difference. +If compression is good and you have spark, then next is fuel, carbs, fuel pumps, primer bulb, fuel filter. Once that done then report back. +Good luck.1","Did you check the fuel pumps? When bogging down, try to squeeze the primer build, see if that makes a difference. +If compression is good and you have spark, then next is fuel, carbs, fuel pumps, primer bulb, fuel filter. Once that done then report back. +Good luck.1","I assume that's a Johnson 115 HP. If so, I suggest you post your question on the Johnson/Evinrude Outboard forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" and scroll down to Johnson/Evinrude. + +Also, you can go to www.boats.net and pull up an ignition parts list and diagram for the equivalent Evinrude." +"Alright so I have a 1986 pro v 150 on a 90s model procraft bass boat. The trouble I'm having is the boat runs fine on the muffs sitting the yard give it gas seems to do fine with the arm I never put it in gear and revved it.. But on the water it also idles fine but once you get to moving to put it under a load it doesn't rev past around 2-3 rpms. It will not get up on plane it's not really bogging down or surging just reaches that rpm and will not go anymore. + I cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, fuel filter, new primer bowl, new plugs. I checked it's getting spark. took it out. It's doing the samn thing it did before. I even tried a different prop didn't change anything. I did notice the boat got low on gas and hit a wave it would take off to wide open throttle but died right back off again. + Is there any suggestions what else could be done. possobly just rebuild the carbs instead of trying to clean them? Possibly stator? Any suggestion or even knowing what it is would be helpful. + Thanks a lot in advance!!","The problem seems to be it isn't really bogging just reaches a rpm but will not go anymore, just plows along. Choking seems to bring the motor down like any choke should when the motor is warm. I check fuel pumps just didn't rebuild them, and I clean the carbs but didn't see to make a difference. And I checked spark by having a buddy turn the key it's showing spark. I did wonder if it's not sparking under a load though","The problem seems to be it isn't really bogging just reaches a rpm but will not go anymore, just plows along. Choking seems to bring the motor down like any choke should when the motor is warm. I check fuel pumps just didn't rebuild them, and I clean the carbs but didn't see to make a difference. And I checked spark by having a buddy turn the key it's showing spark. I did wonder if it's not sparking under a load though","Finally - Carbs installed. Fresh gas. With fingers crossed, went to start engine submerged in 1/2 of 50 gal drum. First noticed that primer bulb now gets hard to where it can't be pumped any more. It has NEVER done that before and I always wondered why. Cranked her up and was pleasantly surprised. Started right up. Idles faster than before. VERY responsive when punching throttle. Can't wait to get her on the water. But before that I need some help with tuning. + +When I worked carbs, I set idle mix screws to same amount of turns as they were when I took carbs off. Read that to tune them just turn them for fastest idle. I turned two of them and could not detect any difference by listening to idle. Is this important? If so, how do I adjust them? +Thanks much!" +"Alright so I have a 1986 pro v 150 on a 90s model procraft bass boat. The trouble I'm having is the boat runs fine on the muffs sitting the yard give it gas seems to do fine with the arm I never put it in gear and revved it.. But on the water it also idles fine but once you get to moving to put it under a load it doesn't rev past around 2-3 rpms. It will not get up on plane it's not really bogging down or surging just reaches that rpm and will not go anymore. + I cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, fuel filter, new primer bowl, new plugs. I checked it's getting spark. took it out. It's doing the samn thing it did before. I even tried a different prop didn't change anything. I did notice the boat got low on gas and hit a wave it would take off to wide open throttle but died right back off again. + Is there any suggestions what else could be done. possobly just rebuild the carbs instead of trying to clean them? Possibly stator? Any suggestion or even knowing what it is would be helpful. + Thanks a lot in advance!!","Yamahadude said: + + + + Well I pulled each carb off and took them apart, cleaned the jets, took the floats out and needle valves out. Pretty took them completely apart and cleaned everything and put it back together. It's possible I could have missed something but I think i cleaned them pretty good + +Click to expand... + + +Sounds like you covered it all. How about time and sync? Did you do this after reinstalling carbs?","Yamahadude said: + + + + Well I pulled each carb off and took them apart, cleaned the jets, took the floats out and needle valves out. Pretty took them completely apart and cleaned everything and put it back together. It's possible I could have missed something but I think i cleaned them pretty good + +Click to expand... + + +Sounds like you covered it all. How about time and sync? Did you do this after reinstalling carbs?","First the unit is not running yet. You have done your homework as for diagnostics. So using the SWAG method, the next place is the ECM, or maybe not!! Good job!!! Thank's Martin" +"Alright so I have a 1986 pro v 150 on a 90s model procraft bass boat. The trouble I'm having is the boat runs fine on the muffs sitting the yard give it gas seems to do fine with the arm I never put it in gear and revved it.. But on the water it also idles fine but once you get to moving to put it under a load it doesn't rev past around 2-3 rpms. It will not get up on plane it's not really bogging down or surging just reaches that rpm and will not go anymore. + I cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, fuel filter, new primer bowl, new plugs. I checked it's getting spark. took it out. It's doing the samn thing it did before. I even tried a different prop didn't change anything. I did notice the boat got low on gas and hit a wave it would take off to wide open throttle but died right back off again. + Is there any suggestions what else could be done. possobly just rebuild the carbs instead of trying to clean them? Possibly stator? Any suggestion or even knowing what it is would be helpful. + Thanks a lot in advance!!",I did not sync them. At first I assumed just pulling them apart and not messing with anything besides cleaning them I would be fine. Does that seem like the problem ? They need to be sync together?,I did not sync them. At first I assumed just pulling them apart and not messing with anything besides cleaning them I would be fine. Does that seem like the problem ? They need to be sync together?,"O.K., thanks. I got grinders, etc. All those seating cabinets and decks are likely fiberglassed into place above the stringers and hull? I’ll have to get some of the carpeting off of the deck and cabinets. It will all need to be fiberglassed in place again after getting rid of unneeded foam and water damaged plywood, I suppose. Thanks!" +"Alright so I have a 1986 pro v 150 on a 90s model procraft bass boat. The trouble I'm having is the boat runs fine on the muffs sitting the yard give it gas seems to do fine with the arm I never put it in gear and revved it.. But on the water it also idles fine but once you get to moving to put it under a load it doesn't rev past around 2-3 rpms. It will not get up on plane it's not really bogging down or surging just reaches that rpm and will not go anymore. + I cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, fuel filter, new primer bowl, new plugs. I checked it's getting spark. took it out. It's doing the samn thing it did before. I even tried a different prop didn't change anything. I did notice the boat got low on gas and hit a wave it would take off to wide open throttle but died right back off again. + Is there any suggestions what else could be done. possobly just rebuild the carbs instead of trying to clean them? Possibly stator? Any suggestion or even knowing what it is would be helpful. + Thanks a lot in advance!!","Ok here is my .02. Do a compression test. If good, move to spark (which you already did), then move to fuel. For the fuel, I would first squeeze the primer bulb when you reach max rpm, see if that makes a difference. If it does, then check fuel pumps. If it doesn't then check reeds, you can see them easily when carbs are out. If all is good there then move to electronic. Harder to diagnose but if you have compression, spark and fuel then it's somewhere in the ignition system. You will get all the help you need here to troubleshoot. But first is first. + +Also, not sure about the 1986 but Yamaha had this safety feature to automatically lower rpm if motor gets too hot. Are your overheat sensors testing properly? Is your buzzer working properly? + +It usually ends up being something simple. + +Good luck and let us know. + +Cheers +F + + + +11","Ok here is my .02. Do a compression test. If good, move to spark (which you already did), then move to fuel. For the fuel, I would first squeeze the primer bulb when you reach max rpm, see if that makes a difference. If it does, then check fuel pumps. If it doesn't then check reeds, you can see them easily when carbs are out. If all is good there then move to electronic. Harder to diagnose but if you have compression, spark and fuel then it's somewhere in the ignition system. You will get all the help you need here to troubleshoot. But first is first. + +Also, not sure about the 1986 but Yamaha had this safety feature to automatically lower rpm if motor gets too hot. Are your overheat sensors testing properly? Is your buzzer working properly? + +It usually ends up being something simple. + +Good luck and let us know. + +Cheers +F + + + +11","Does the spark jump a gap of 1 cm (3/8"" ) on both leads when cranking it over , yes or no ?" +"Alright so I have a 1986 pro v 150 on a 90s model procraft bass boat. The trouble I'm having is the boat runs fine on the muffs sitting the yard give it gas seems to do fine with the arm I never put it in gear and revved it.. But on the water it also idles fine but once you get to moving to put it under a load it doesn't rev past around 2-3 rpms. It will not get up on plane it's not really bogging down or surging just reaches that rpm and will not go anymore. + I cleaned the carbs, changed the fuel lines, fuel filter, new primer bowl, new plugs. I checked it's getting spark. took it out. It's doing the samn thing it did before. I even tried a different prop didn't change anything. I did notice the boat got low on gas and hit a wave it would take off to wide open throttle but died right back off again. + Is there any suggestions what else could be done. possobly just rebuild the carbs instead of trying to clean them? Possibly stator? Any suggestion or even knowing what it is would be helpful. + Thanks a lot in advance!!","Yamahadude said: + + + + Does that seem like the problem ? They need to be sync together? + +Click to expand... + + +I don't know if you having not timed and synced carbs is the issue....but I do know carbs must be T/S after rebuilding/cleaning, 100%. Just think about it for a moment. For example, lets say that prior to cleaning the jets were gunked up, thereby causing poor performance. In response, you or the previous owner adjust the mix screws to allow for a richer mix to compensate for the lack of fuel passing through jets. Now you clean jets and reinstall, leaving the mix exactly the same as prior to cleaning. No doubt the timing will be off. At least in my mind it will. If you refer to your service manual you will see the indication to time/sync after reinstalling carbs. But of course, I'm not a master yam mechanic. Could I be wrong? Sure. But then ask yourself, which is the worse scenario...you time and sync carbs properly and the result doesn't fix the issue, yet now the carbs are setup. Or you T/S and it fixes the issue.","Yamahadude said: + + + + Does that seem like the problem ? They need to be sync together? + +Click to expand... + + +I don't know if you having not timed and synced carbs is the issue....but I do know carbs must be T/S after rebuilding/cleaning, 100%. Just think about it for a moment. For example, lets say that prior to cleaning the jets were gunked up, thereby causing poor performance. In response, you or the previous owner adjust the mix screws to allow for a richer mix to compensate for the lack of fuel passing through jets. Now you clean jets and reinstall, leaving the mix exactly the same as prior to cleaning. No doubt the timing will be off. At least in my mind it will. If you refer to your service manual you will see the indication to time/sync after reinstalling carbs. But of course, I'm not a master yam mechanic. Could I be wrong? Sure. But then ask yourself, which is the worse scenario...you time and sync carbs properly and the result doesn't fix the issue, yet now the carbs are setup. Or you T/S and it fixes the issue.","lakepro said: + + + +Can anybody tell me how I can get out of the hole faster. if I have me and another. it seems to be ok. but if I have 4. Its seems like it takes forever to plane out. any tips ?? Its a 1987 bayliner carpi 21ft I/0. 5.0. Thanks!!! + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... generally speakin',.... drop 2"" of prop pitch,..." +"Howdy everyone. +Hoping you can lend a novice some advice. I'm trying to change out the impeller on a Yahama 8HP 6NO outboard. I've loosened the clamp thing on the shift rod, so that's free. I've removed the 4 12mm bolts and only been able to separate the lower unit about 1/4"". It won't budge any further. I've run out of ideas so I hung the f**cker upside down. It's been hanging for 3 days soaked in degreaser and WD40 and hasn't budged. I'm afraid the drive shaft is fused to the crank shaft, but I have 1/4"" gap, so that doesn't seem possible. + +Anyone have some helpful tips for me? Did I miss a bolt? Do I just need to be patient? Is there another way to disassemble the motor to get at the drive shaft? Any help is appreciated!!","Wow, seeing that is a first for me. Pictured below is the LU parts blow out for your motor. Circled in red are the components required to come off first in order to drop LU. Sounds like you've done this though. Other than the shift connector and bolt, and the 4 LU bolts, there is nothing else used to button up LU. Have you tried using a friend, he/she turn the fly wheel by hand clockwise while you jiggle LU counterclockwise, see if it budges.","Wow, seeing that is a first for me. Pictured below is the LU parts blow out for your motor. Circled in red are the components required to come off first in order to drop LU. Sounds like you've done this though. Other than the shift connector and bolt, and the 4 LU bolts, there is nothing else used to button up LU. Have you tried using a friend, he/she turn the fly wheel by hand clockwise while you jiggle LU counterclockwise, see if it budges.","Our T25C has the 2.41 gear ratio lower unit. + +Our F25C has the 2.0 gear ratio lower unit. + +Both are twin cylinder models without a balancer being used. Both are fuel injected. + +If the UK F/T25 model is fuel injected, and uses what is known as an Engine Control Unit, then I suspect that it will have a YDIS port. For downloading engine data. Including engine hours. + +Yamaha uses different model identities for the exact same motor when they are sold in different parts of the world." +"Howdy everyone. +Hoping you can lend a novice some advice. I'm trying to change out the impeller on a Yahama 8HP 6NO outboard. I've loosened the clamp thing on the shift rod, so that's free. I've removed the 4 12mm bolts and only been able to separate the lower unit about 1/4"". It won't budge any further. I've run out of ideas so I hung the f**cker upside down. It's been hanging for 3 days soaked in degreaser and WD40 and hasn't budged. I'm afraid the drive shaft is fused to the crank shaft, but I have 1/4"" gap, so that doesn't seem possible. + +Anyone have some helpful tips for me? Did I miss a bolt? Do I just need to be patient? Is there another way to disassemble the motor to get at the drive shaft? Any help is appreciated!!","Thanks, I don’t think the lower unit has been removed for at least 10 years. I’ll give your suggestion a try.","Thanks, I don’t think the lower unit has been removed for at least 10 years. I’ll give your suggestion a try.","thank you,, ill look for a shop over the winter.. as for conditions,, im on the atlantic, and will be using it in rough water,, i love it in a storm,lol.. so ill do the renoes first, then find a shop to help me while im at that,, hopfully there is one in atlantic canada,, thanks again makomark....." +"Good Afternoon, + +I have a 20 foot welded aluminum workboat with a 115 yamaha 2 stroke. 20 inch. Model number 115 TLRX I need to convert to a long shaft as the waves come in over the back. I have purchased aluminum lift bracket to raise the motor up and we will add aluminum plate to it to block waves. + +I also have a 130 hp yamaha 25 inch shaft. Model number 130 TXRY + +My questions are. + +1. Should I swap the lower sections of the motors around making the 115 a 25"" shaft or should I switch the complete motor to a 130 hp which is now a 25"" shaft.? + +I dont need the extra power and done want to burn more fuel. Is it possible to switch the 115 hp carbs to the 130 ? Is the gear ratio the same? + +All thoughts and advice are welcome. + + +I have owned the 115 for years and has been a very good motor. I bought the 130 from a local who said they had always maintained at the dealer and it ran well. They just wanted to go to a 4 stroke.",Any thoughts on the best route to go?,Any thoughts on the best route to go?,"It could be that the pipe that pumps the water into the powerhead doesn't seat tightly, you can see it on the pic that ClassicAQ posted, also right next to the impeller cover there is a rubber type gasket between the exhaust area and the pump area ..." +"Good Afternoon, + +I have a 20 foot welded aluminum workboat with a 115 yamaha 2 stroke. 20 inch. Model number 115 TLRX I need to convert to a long shaft as the waves come in over the back. I have purchased aluminum lift bracket to raise the motor up and we will add aluminum plate to it to block waves. + +I also have a 130 hp yamaha 25 inch shaft. Model number 130 TXRY + +My questions are. + +1. Should I swap the lower sections of the motors around making the 115 a 25"" shaft or should I switch the complete motor to a 130 hp which is now a 25"" shaft.? + +I dont need the extra power and done want to burn more fuel. Is it possible to switch the 115 hp carbs to the 130 ? Is the gear ratio the same? + +All thoughts and advice are welcome. + + +I have owned the 115 for years and has been a very good motor. I bought the 130 from a local who said they had always maintained at the dealer and it ran well. They just wanted to go to a 4 stroke.","bigdockbuilder said: + + + + 1. Should I swap the lower sections of the motors around making the 115 a 25"" shaft or should I switch the complete motor to a 130 hp which is now a 25"" shaft.? + +Click to expand... + + + +The 115hp & 130hp are practically mechanically identical...the 130hp has a little bit higher max fuel consumption and compression pressure, and it weighs about 20lbs more, but that's about it. So to me it seems foolish going through the cost and effort of exchanging LU's. If the 130hp is reliable and has been well maintained, I'd hang it.","bigdockbuilder said: + + + + 1. Should I swap the lower sections of the motors around making the 115 a 25"" shaft or should I switch the complete motor to a 130 hp which is now a 25"" shaft.? + +Click to expand... + + + +The 115hp & 130hp are practically mechanically identical...the 130hp has a little bit higher max fuel consumption and compression pressure, and it weighs about 20lbs more, but that's about it. So to me it seems foolish going through the cost and effort of exchanging LU's. If the 130hp is reliable and has been well maintained, I'd hang it.",Nope. +"Good Afternoon, + +I have a 20 foot welded aluminum workboat with a 115 yamaha 2 stroke. 20 inch. Model number 115 TLRX I need to convert to a long shaft as the waves come in over the back. I have purchased aluminum lift bracket to raise the motor up and we will add aluminum plate to it to block waves. + +I also have a 130 hp yamaha 25 inch shaft. Model number 130 TXRY + +My questions are. + +1. Should I swap the lower sections of the motors around making the 115 a 25"" shaft or should I switch the complete motor to a 130 hp which is now a 25"" shaft.? + +I dont need the extra power and done want to burn more fuel. Is it possible to switch the 115 hp carbs to the 130 ? Is the gear ratio the same? + +All thoughts and advice are welcome. + + +I have owned the 115 for years and has been a very good motor. I bought the 130 from a local who said they had always maintained at the dealer and it ran well. They just wanted to go to a 4 stroke.","There may be as engineered kit available to add 5"" to the motor.","There may be as engineered kit available to add 5"" to the motor.",I use a dealers ultrasonic to clean badly clogged carbs and my fishing reels …...really works nice on those tiny pull over tubes +"Good Afternoon, + +I have a 20 foot welded aluminum workboat with a 115 yamaha 2 stroke. 20 inch. Model number 115 TLRX I need to convert to a long shaft as the waves come in over the back. I have purchased aluminum lift bracket to raise the motor up and we will add aluminum plate to it to block waves. + +I also have a 130 hp yamaha 25 inch shaft. Model number 130 TXRY + +My questions are. + +1. Should I swap the lower sections of the motors around making the 115 a 25"" shaft or should I switch the complete motor to a 130 hp which is now a 25"" shaft.? + +I dont need the extra power and done want to burn more fuel. Is it possible to switch the 115 hp carbs to the 130 ? Is the gear ratio the same? + +All thoughts and advice are welcome. + + +I have owned the 115 for years and has been a very good motor. I bought the 130 from a local who said they had always maintained at the dealer and it ran well. They just wanted to go to a 4 stroke.","I thinkyou are right. + +Going with the 130 is probally alot less work. + +Thanks for the insight.","I thinkyou are right. + +Going with the 130 is probally alot less work. + +Thanks for the insight.","ABYC standards : + + + +http://www.marinewireandcable.com/2013/11/crimping-vs-soldering-marine-cable-and.html + +http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/crimp-or-solder" +"Hello, I have a carbed V6 150 HP on my ski boat. The motor was originally Grey. The bottom gearcase has been replaced with a Black rebuilt unit. The top cover has been professionally refinished in Black two stage paint, but the center section is hard to look at in mottled and semi corroded Grey. +Can anyone suggest a DIY formula to get this matching the rest of the motor? Was thinking of a light sanding, then maybe some Zinc primer, then a top coat.. Are there good marine grade products you can suggest? The boat lives in fresh water and will never see salt. + +Tia","I believe the yamaha outboard website has the codes for specific model/year paint colors. And if they don't, you'll find the answer with google. Once you've determined the accurate paint code used, you can then order X amount to paint the LU.","I believe the yamaha outboard website has the codes for specific model/year paint colors. And if they don't, you'll find the answer with google. Once you've determined the accurate paint code used, you can then order X amount to paint the LU.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Try pumping primer bulb while she's running + +Click to expand... + +I did try squeezing bulb this morning but made no difference. 11 pulls to start. +It does run better since cleaning out carb and adjusting slop out of linkage but is still hard to start and coughs and wheezes. +Once it is up and warm it is not great but is acceptable. Starting should be better. any suggestions would be appreciated. +Is there a way to check timing or maybe a electronic cold start like bigger engines with pre-enrichment valves? +I cant seem to get there. thanks" +"Hello, I have a carbed V6 150 HP on my ski boat. The motor was originally Grey. The bottom gearcase has been replaced with a Black rebuilt unit. The top cover has been professionally refinished in Black two stage paint, but the center section is hard to look at in mottled and semi corroded Grey. +Can anyone suggest a DIY formula to get this matching the rest of the motor? Was thinking of a light sanding, then maybe some Zinc primer, then a top coat.. Are there good marine grade products you can suggest? The boat lives in fresh water and will never see salt. + +Tia",Thanks for the reply. Is there a type of paint that is most suitable for a marine environment?,Thanks for the reply. Is there a type of paint that is most suitable for a marine environment?,"what you describe is NOT normal operating condition...so I wouldn't say pump is ok ... + +Usually, choke means not enough fuel is flowing somewhere in the system....could be one of the jets or the supply..." +"Hello, I have a carbed V6 150 HP on my ski boat. The motor was originally Grey. The bottom gearcase has been replaced with a Black rebuilt unit. The top cover has been professionally refinished in Black two stage paint, but the center section is hard to look at in mottled and semi corroded Grey. +Can anyone suggest a DIY formula to get this matching the rest of the motor? Was thinking of a light sanding, then maybe some Zinc primer, then a top coat.. Are there good marine grade products you can suggest? The boat lives in fresh water and will never see salt. + +Tia","Nucad said: + + + + Is there a type of paint that is most suitable for a marine environment? + +Click to expand... + + +The type is the paint that's engineered for marine environments. If what you're asking is what if you don't buy the paint from yamaha, what paint should you buy....I don't know. But if I wanted to repaint my Yammy and wanted it to look like a yammy, I'd buy the paint from yammy.","Nucad said: + + + + Is there a type of paint that is most suitable for a marine environment? + +Click to expand... + + +The type is the paint that's engineered for marine environments. If what you're asking is what if you don't buy the paint from yamaha, what paint should you buy....I don't know. But if I wanted to repaint my Yammy and wanted it to look like a yammy, I'd buy the paint from yammy.","Ayuh,..... What drive,..?? + +If it's an ole Stringer, ya might be SOL,.... +For anything else, ya might need to replace abit more than just the cable,......" +"I have a 2001 Yamaha 90HP 2 stroke. I am getting ready to replace the water pump and I have watched several videos. In none of the videos do I see anyone disconnecting a shift rod. I have changed a few water pumps in other engines that required the shift rod to be disconnected in order for the lower unit to drop down. When I see the videos it seems all that's needed is to remove the bolts that actually hold the lower unit on. Is this correct or am I missing something? +Thanks! +Bryan","yam 90 doesn't have a shift/drive shaft connection. The shift shaft slides in/out of drive shaft tube. Smaller yam hp engines has the shaft connections you refer to. The woodruff key can present challenges, fyi. Before dropping LU I recommend getting a service manual model/year specific to your engine.","yam 90 doesn't have a shift/drive shaft connection. The shift shaft slides in/out of drive shaft tube. Smaller yam hp engines has the shaft connections you refer to. The woodruff key can present challenges, fyi. Before dropping LU I recommend getting a service manual model/year specific to your engine.","Was it plugged into computer(YDIS)sensors checked, static tests? was there a reason for replacing TPS? and were the throttle valves synced before TPS being set?" +"I have a 2001 Yamaha 90HP 2 stroke. I am getting ready to replace the water pump and I have watched several videos. In none of the videos do I see anyone disconnecting a shift rod. I have changed a few water pumps in other engines that required the shift rod to be disconnected in order for the lower unit to drop down. When I see the videos it seems all that's needed is to remove the bolts that actually hold the lower unit on. Is this correct or am I missing something? +Thanks! +Bryan",Thank you for that information. I am doing this job for a friend and he is in the process of getting a service manual.,Thank you for that information. I am doing this job for a friend and he is in the process of getting a service manual.,"Looks like you know your electronics. Great job finding the short so quick. Sometimes, more like most times, it takes forever." +"I have a 2001 Yamaha 90HP 2 stroke. I am getting ready to replace the water pump and I have watched several videos. In none of the videos do I see anyone disconnecting a shift rod. I have changed a few water pumps in other engines that required the shift rod to be disconnected in order for the lower unit to drop down. When I see the videos it seems all that's needed is to remove the bolts that actually hold the lower unit on. Is this correct or am I missing something? +Thanks! +Bryan","There are only three 90hp Yam models for 2001. The link below is the service manual for all three: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/441-2001-yamaha-60x-70x-75x-90x/file","There are only three 90hp Yam models for 2001. The link below is the service manual for all three: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/441-2001-yamaha-60x-70x-75x-90x/file","If that's a 4 stroke,a valve adjustment would help" +"Hey guys, +Quick question on a 2006 F115. Getting conflicting information everywhere and hoping to sort it out so i can get this right since WI fishing season is upon us! Im putting a Quicksilver/Merc Trophy prop on my '06 F115 and was originally told to get the 835271Q2 prop hub kit. This did not work, says 115 but i believe for older 2 strokes. Was told I should get the 835274Q1 or the 8M0075402 (but dont have 2 piece). So was ready to order one and a guy called from up north and said i need to get 835271Q09 Now im not sure which one i need? Neither list 115 in theyre applications, just 150 and up and certain other models but told the F115 is included in there. + +Any help would be apprectiated","'06 F115 is a 15 spline, 4.25"" gearcase. The only other necessary variable needed to know when choosing a prop is whether you have a right or left hand rotation engine. 4.25"" gearcase translates to a prop diameter between 13"" and 14"", but most common diameter offered and used is 13.25"". + +And also, to my knowledge props are not designed to be used for a specific stroke engine. The operators responsibility is to choose the correct size diameter/spline/rotation prop for the engine. The stroke of engine bears no weight, as I have an older 2 stroke Yam. And it has a 4.25"" gearcase, just like the newer F115 models have. + +The pics below are taken from Mercury's prop index. As you'll see, the Merc Trophy prop is offered in 2 pitches sizes for your engine (13.25"" diameter), 17"" & 19"". The specific Flo Torq kit to use for your F115 is also pictured below, highlighted in yellow.","'06 F115 is a 15 spline, 4.25"" gearcase. The only other necessary variable needed to know when choosing a prop is whether you have a right or left hand rotation engine. 4.25"" gearcase translates to a prop diameter between 13"" and 14"", but most common diameter offered and used is 13.25"". + +And also, to my knowledge props are not designed to be used for a specific stroke engine. The operators responsibility is to choose the correct size diameter/spline/rotation prop for the engine. The stroke of engine bears no weight, as I have an older 2 stroke Yam. And it has a 4.25"" gearcase, just like the newer F115 models have. + +The pics below are taken from Mercury's prop index. As you'll see, the Merc Trophy prop is offered in 2 pitches sizes for your engine (13.25"" diameter), 17"" & 19"". The specific Flo Torq kit to use for your F115 is also pictured below, highlighted in yellow.",What does the OEM service manual recommend? Neither the gps or sterio use that much power anyways. If you decide to go with a maint free or deep cycle battery do your engine a favor and add a high amp draw appliance you can run while the engine is running to use up the excess power produced at high RPM. A refrigerated ice chest is always a nice addition to a boat. Add a volt meter you can monitor the charging system if not present. Anything over 15 volts must be addresses. Adding appliances is the best solution not taking them away. +"Hey guys, +Quick question on a 2006 F115. Getting conflicting information everywhere and hoping to sort it out so i can get this right since WI fishing season is upon us! Im putting a Quicksilver/Merc Trophy prop on my '06 F115 and was originally told to get the 835271Q2 prop hub kit. This did not work, says 115 but i believe for older 2 strokes. Was told I should get the 835274Q1 or the 8M0075402 (but dont have 2 piece). So was ready to order one and a guy called from up north and said i need to get 835271Q09 Now im not sure which one i need? Neither list 115 in theyre applications, just 150 and up and certain other models but told the F115 is included in there. + +Any help would be apprectiated","Thank you for your reply. One thing i did forget to mention that may be relevant is this engine originally had a jet lower unit and was replaced with a new lower unit to get a prop on it so may have a 150 lower unit on it? It is a trophy 13.25x19 that is going on the F115 that is on a Xpress hyperlift and these boats like these props with pad to prop set right and jackplates. I dont have pictures of the trophy but it is a trophy and has the ventilation ring/exhaust seal ring on the outside of the prop. Could this interfere with it? I didnt look to closely, its been raining and busy with work. The kit i have, that you highlighted in yellow, is the 835271Q2 and thats the one thats not working. The thrust washer doesnt even look similar to the oem one like few other kits do. This is the washer from the engine and laid out prop like how it came off. the edge closest to my hand is the side that goes towards the gearcase. +Thats the part thats getting confusing now is being told I need 835274Q1 or 835271Q09 or something else now. Asked a few Xpress guys since these usually come with yamahas and havent gotten a good answer since i would think the 75/90/115 are all pretty similar and lots of people have put Merc props on.","Thank you for your reply. One thing i did forget to mention that may be relevant is this engine originally had a jet lower unit and was replaced with a new lower unit to get a prop on it so may have a 150 lower unit on it? It is a trophy 13.25x19 that is going on the F115 that is on a Xpress hyperlift and these boats like these props with pad to prop set right and jackplates. I dont have pictures of the trophy but it is a trophy and has the ventilation ring/exhaust seal ring on the outside of the prop. Could this interfere with it? I didnt look to closely, its been raining and busy with work. The kit i have, that you highlighted in yellow, is the 835271Q2 and thats the one thats not working. The thrust washer doesnt even look similar to the oem one like few other kits do. This is the washer from the engine and laid out prop like how it came off. the edge closest to my hand is the side that goes towards the gearcase. +Thats the part thats getting confusing now is being told I need 835274Q1 or 835271Q09 or something else now. Asked a few Xpress guys since these usually come with yamahas and havent gotten a good answer since i would think the 75/90/115 are all pretty similar and lots of people have put Merc props on.","start with your basic Chilton's book troubleshooting list for No Spark.....then figure out who's engine is in it and give it a good mechanical assessment. if the engine is serviceable, a good tuneup is probably overdue." +"Hey guys, +Quick question on a 2006 F115. Getting conflicting information everywhere and hoping to sort it out so i can get this right since WI fishing season is upon us! Im putting a Quicksilver/Merc Trophy prop on my '06 F115 and was originally told to get the 835271Q2 prop hub kit. This did not work, says 115 but i believe for older 2 strokes. Was told I should get the 835274Q1 or the 8M0075402 (but dont have 2 piece). So was ready to order one and a guy called from up north and said i need to get 835271Q09 Now im not sure which one i need? Neither list 115 in theyre applications, just 150 and up and certain other models but told the F115 is included in there. + +Any help would be apprectiated","If the gearcase is off of a 150 and the hub kit installed in the prop is designed for a 115, then that's probably the issue. In which case you'd need a prop a hub kit intended for a 150. Because both of what you have are for 115 motors (geracases).","If the gearcase is off of a 150 and the hub kit installed in the prop is designed for a 115, then that's probably the issue. In which case you'd need a prop a hub kit intended for a 150. Because both of what you have are for 115 motors (geracases).","Excellent, thank you for the info! + +I like the idea of eliminating wood under the deck. + +For the sake of my budget, I will have to stick with marine ply for the deck and transom. + +Unless anyone has suggestions there. + +Thank you all for sharing your knowledge." +"Hey guys, +Quick question on a 2006 F115. Getting conflicting information everywhere and hoping to sort it out so i can get this right since WI fishing season is upon us! Im putting a Quicksilver/Merc Trophy prop on my '06 F115 and was originally told to get the 835271Q2 prop hub kit. This did not work, says 115 but i believe for older 2 strokes. Was told I should get the 835274Q1 or the 8M0075402 (but dont have 2 piece). So was ready to order one and a guy called from up north and said i need to get 835271Q09 Now im not sure which one i need? Neither list 115 in theyre applications, just 150 and up and certain other models but told the F115 is included in there. + +Any help would be apprectiated","I can't say for certain, i just brought that up at one point and a guy said that chances are there may be a 150 lower on there because of the jet drive rating or something. Not really sure if true, otherwise ill have to look up some part numbers or something on the lower, if able, and see if i can match up if its really a 115 head on a 150 leg but on a parts finder, i looked at 115 and showed the thrust washer being the same part as one on a 150. (parts were listed under 2006-later)","I can't say for certain, i just brought that up at one point and a guy said that chances are there may be a 150 lower on there because of the jet drive rating or something. Not really sure if true, otherwise ill have to look up some part numbers or something on the lower, if able, and see if i can match up if its really a 115 head on a 150 leg but on a parts finder, i looked at 115 and showed the thrust washer being the same part as one on a 150. (parts were listed under 2006-later)",Have your new battery load tested. +"Hey guys, +Quick question on a 2006 F115. Getting conflicting information everywhere and hoping to sort it out so i can get this right since WI fishing season is upon us! Im putting a Quicksilver/Merc Trophy prop on my '06 F115 and was originally told to get the 835271Q2 prop hub kit. This did not work, says 115 but i believe for older 2 strokes. Was told I should get the 835274Q1 or the 8M0075402 (but dont have 2 piece). So was ready to order one and a guy called from up north and said i need to get 835271Q09 Now im not sure which one i need? Neither list 115 in theyre applications, just 150 and up and certain other models but told the F115 is included in there. + +Any help would be apprectiated","This just occurred to me...what is the model number of the engine (located on left side of bracket)? If it's F115TJ...then it's a high thrust/jet drive motor converted to standard drive. If the TJ are not in the model number then it's a standard four stroke. I'd first determine this before doing anything else. I don't know anything about jet engines, but if it is a jet drive it seems unlikely the LU of a 150 would be compatible...since the 150 is a 6 cylinder and the 115 is 4.","This just occurred to me...what is the model number of the engine (located on left side of bracket)? If it's F115TJ...then it's a high thrust/jet drive motor converted to standard drive. If the TJ are not in the model number then it's a standard four stroke. I'd first determine this before doing anything else. I don't know anything about jet engines, but if it is a jet drive it seems unlikely the LU of a 150 would be compatible...since the 150 is a 6 cylinder and the 115 is 4.","this is my first ever post, my 08 yamaha 250 started making what sounded like a rubbing noise under the flywheel- my mechanic told me sometimes the thin stainless steel liner betwheen the stator and the flywheel (glued to the inside of the flywheel) can come loose . we pulled the flywheel and sure enough he was right!! easy fix -replace flywheel. hoping I got it in time and did not harm stator! only problem is the cost of a new flywheel 1000$ I am curious if anyone else has experienced this issue" +"Hello all, + +I have a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR and there are two like bolt heads that are completely corroded. Wondering if this looks like a bolt head or a corroded nut etc. Any suggestions would be a big help. Not sure if I should just chip it all away and then I need to figure out what size etc. to replace them. Attached a few picks of the bolt on the lower mount inside.",M16 or M20 nut replace coat the new ones with a good 2pack paint.,M16 or M20 nut replace coat the new ones with a good 2pack paint.,Yeah I would be interested in a trade. I even have a box of the push pins that hold it to the controls. I have since painted the plate and I'll post a picture of it. Anyway you could upload a picture of yours? +Where the best place to order a 115f rebuild kit.,"What is a 115f model? An F115 four stroke perhaps? + +What part of the motor needs to be rebuilt? There are only a few rebuild kits available here in the US.","What is a 115f model? An F115 four stroke perhaps? + +What part of the motor needs to be rebuilt? There are only a few rebuild kits available here in the US.","What would an impeller, thermostat, spark plugs and fuel lines have to do with the symptoms that you have reported? + +Sounds like you have not done your trouble shooting yet. Stop throwing parts at an unknown problem. + +Put a fuel pressure gauge on the motor. Monitor the high pressure pump pressure. I am guessing that failure to maintain adequate fuel pressure is the problem." +Where the best place to order a 115f rebuild kit.,Yes a Yamaha that the forum was in. Top & Bolton ends,Yes a Yamaha that the forum was in. Top & Bolton ends,Most shops will have a wee pump for that.----About $10 +"Hi, I'm trying to trace the year of manufacture for my Yamaha 55 which came with my boat. I've tried looking up the various lists but they seem to contradict each other. Ultimately i'd like to track down a service manual and parts list. I've seen some which are close but not quit right. As you can see I've attached a couple of pics to help. Any information on this would be greatly appreciated. +Thanks in advance for any help given. + +View attachment 17583View attachment 17584",see post below,see post below,You should take that sender out now while you still can. 5200 will make it a permanent instillation. +"Hi, I'm trying to trace the year of manufacture for my Yamaha 55 which came with my boat. I've tried looking up the various lists but they seem to contradict each other. Ultimately i'd like to track down a service manual and parts list. I've seen some which are close but not quit right. As you can see I've attached a couple of pics to help. Any information on this would be greatly appreciated. +Thanks in advance for any help given. + +View attachment 17583View attachment 17584","Hey, I found this chart that shows codes for motors that are Japanese mariner models. The 663 code is in there which means it could be 1974-1979. see attachment.","Hey, I found this chart that shows codes for motors that are Japanese mariner models. The 663 code is in there which means it could be 1974-1979. see attachment.","There was a brace between the two middle stringers that was rotted...that brace was replaced with new wood and fiberglass mat. The rest of the stringers looked o.k. + + I'm planning on dry-installing the transom cap, drilling and installing stainless wood screws and then using silicone sealant to install the transom cap." +"Hi, I'm trying to trace the year of manufacture for my Yamaha 55 which came with my boat. I've tried looking up the various lists but they seem to contradict each other. Ultimately i'd like to track down a service manual and parts list. I've seen some which are close but not quit right. As you can see I've attached a couple of pics to help. Any information on this would be greatly appreciated. +Thanks in advance for any help given. + +View attachment 17583View attachment 17584",The numbers following the 663L prefix can be used to determine the year of production.,The numbers following the 663L prefix can be used to determine the year of production.,"lander12 said: + + + + Your UTube link does not seem to work. The dot between tu and be may be the problem. + +Why did you change your impeller back in July? Was it to correct a problem similar to your present one? + +Click to expand... + + +Lander12, try this link here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INKxpviiKJc" +"Ok...Just purchased this boat and first 2 times out were great. Went out this weekend and went to go on plane and at 4k rpms.started hearing alarm sound. No indication from the gages what it was. did not feel any problems with the motor. New to Yamahas so this ""alarm"" did not sound loud enough to be the motor but what else could it be? Sound is definitely coming from under the helm and only when I get up to 4k and beyond. +Just one long continuous alarm until I get back down past 4K?? I tried running just one motor at a time to see if I could find out which motor it was but could not get alarm to go on?? Like I said I just bought this boat so I am hoping (probably a dream) that this is some easy fix...Help anyone!! Thanks!!","First, I'd highly recommend getting a model/year engine specific service manual. If you reply back with complete model number there's a chance i can locate one online that you can download for free. + +In general, Yams have 2 alarms: low oil and high temp. Whether you have the classic round or newer square gauges, the alarm that has been triggered is indicated on the gauge. High temp alarm immediately triggers the engine into ""limp"" mode, which is an automatic reduction of rpms below 2k. Low oil alarm has 2 stages: warning and alert. Warning means you can continue to run engine at any rpms; Alert means the oil level is dangerously low and thus the engine automatically reduces rpms below 2k (limp mode). + +Since you saw no indications on the gauge as to which alarm has been triggered, this would imply either a faulty temp or oil sensor, or faulty signal (electrical bug). I would test sensors for both alarm systems to ensure proper function. Then test circuitry for alarm systems.","First, I'd highly recommend getting a model/year engine specific service manual. If you reply back with complete model number there's a chance i can locate one online that you can download for free. + +In general, Yams have 2 alarms: low oil and high temp. Whether you have the classic round or newer square gauges, the alarm that has been triggered is indicated on the gauge. High temp alarm immediately triggers the engine into ""limp"" mode, which is an automatic reduction of rpms below 2k. Low oil alarm has 2 stages: warning and alert. Warning means you can continue to run engine at any rpms; Alert means the oil level is dangerously low and thus the engine automatically reduces rpms below 2k (limp mode). + +Since you saw no indications on the gauge as to which alarm has been triggered, this would imply either a faulty temp or oil sensor, or faulty signal (electrical bug). I would test sensors for both alarm systems to ensure proper function. Then test circuitry for alarm systems.","Use a heat gun to get the main stickers off. Typically, that will leave a shadow of the originals on the hull, which are a PITA to remove. In the past, I've use acetone to get off as much as possible, then a very fine rubbing compound to remove what's left." +"Ok...Just purchased this boat and first 2 times out were great. Went out this weekend and went to go on plane and at 4k rpms.started hearing alarm sound. No indication from the gages what it was. did not feel any problems with the motor. New to Yamahas so this ""alarm"" did not sound loud enough to be the motor but what else could it be? Sound is definitely coming from under the helm and only when I get up to 4k and beyond. +Just one long continuous alarm until I get back down past 4K?? I tried running just one motor at a time to see if I could find out which motor it was but could not get alarm to go on?? Like I said I just bought this boat so I am hoping (probably a dream) that this is some easy fix...Help anyone!! Thanks!!","Thanks for the reply...I hope it's just a faulty sensor. Model # 2003 F115TXRC AND LF115TXRC. + +And this ""alarm"" is not very loud. I have heard engine alarms from Evinrudes and Mercury's and they make you stop. I actually thought it was the noise that braided line makes when you are cruising.","Thanks for the reply...I hope it's just a faulty sensor. Model # 2003 F115TXRC AND LF115TXRC. + +And this ""alarm"" is not very loud. I have heard engine alarms from Evinrudes and Mercury's and they make you stop. I actually thought it was the noise that braided line makes when you are cruising.",I woild replace it with some quality high pressure hose. +"Ok...Just purchased this boat and first 2 times out were great. Went out this weekend and went to go on plane and at 4k rpms.started hearing alarm sound. No indication from the gages what it was. did not feel any problems with the motor. New to Yamahas so this ""alarm"" did not sound loud enough to be the motor but what else could it be? Sound is definitely coming from under the helm and only when I get up to 4k and beyond. +Just one long continuous alarm until I get back down past 4K?? I tried running just one motor at a time to see if I could find out which motor it was but could not get alarm to go on?? Like I said I just bought this boat so I am hoping (probably a dream) that this is some easy fix...Help anyone!! Thanks!!","You're in luck...link to your engines manual below. Btw, the last model letter of C indicates a model year of 2004, not 2003. To my knowledge and experience, Yam's have one alarm sound, whether it's the oil alarm, high temp alarm, or turning key when lanyard is removed from kill switch. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...hop-manuals/372-2004-yamaha-f115c-lf115c/file","You're in luck...link to your engines manual below. Btw, the last model letter of C indicates a model year of 2004, not 2003. To my knowledge and experience, Yam's have one alarm sound, whether it's the oil alarm, high temp alarm, or turning key when lanyard is removed from kill switch. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...hop-manuals/372-2004-yamaha-f115c-lf115c/file",Or the lanyard is pulled. +"Ok...Just purchased this boat and first 2 times out were great. Went out this weekend and went to go on plane and at 4k rpms.started hearing alarm sound. No indication from the gages what it was. did not feel any problems with the motor. New to Yamahas so this ""alarm"" did not sound loud enough to be the motor but what else could it be? Sound is definitely coming from under the helm and only when I get up to 4k and beyond. +Just one long continuous alarm until I get back down past 4K?? I tried running just one motor at a time to see if I could find out which motor it was but could not get alarm to go on?? Like I said I just bought this boat so I am hoping (probably a dream) that this is some easy fix...Help anyone!! Thanks!!",Thanks Classic. Talked to my mechanic (first time I am using him) and he said it was the main shaft bushings so he has to drop the lower units of both motors and replace the bushings and the sound was coming from the engines and not an alarm at all. Well I clearly heard the noise coming from under the helm. The helm and the engines are 8 feet apart. I don't want to be one of those guys but I know where the noise was coming from and it was not the motors. I need to go for a ride with him and let him sit next to the helm access door.,Thanks Classic. Talked to my mechanic (first time I am using him) and he said it was the main shaft bushings so he has to drop the lower units of both motors and replace the bushings and the sound was coming from the engines and not an alarm at all. Well I clearly heard the noise coming from under the helm. The helm and the engines are 8 feet apart. I don't want to be one of those guys but I know where the noise was coming from and it was not the motors. I need to go for a ride with him and let him sit next to the helm access door.,"Yes you are absolutely right. But in life come in the situation where people receive a gift engine or other means. And the power of them is low, and sell the existing engine is quite difficult, and buy a new need to add a significant amount of money. And therefore remains one of the options to try to increase their own power. + Sorry for my English" +"Ok...Just purchased this boat and first 2 times out were great. Went out this weekend and went to go on plane and at 4k rpms.started hearing alarm sound. No indication from the gages what it was. did not feel any problems with the motor. New to Yamahas so this ""alarm"" did not sound loud enough to be the motor but what else could it be? Sound is definitely coming from under the helm and only when I get up to 4k and beyond. +Just one long continuous alarm until I get back down past 4K?? I tried running just one motor at a time to see if I could find out which motor it was but could not get alarm to go on?? Like I said I just bought this boat so I am hoping (probably a dream) that this is some easy fix...Help anyone!! Thanks!!","Tailspotter said: + + + + Thanks Classic. Talked to my mechanic (first time I am using him) and he said it was the main shaft bushings so he has to drop the lower units of both motors and replace the bushings and the sound was coming from the engines and not an alarm at all. Well I clearly heard the noise coming from under the helm. The helm and the engines are 8 feet apart. I don't want to be one of those guys but I know where the noise was coming from and it was not the motors. I need to go for a ride with him and let him sit next to the helm access door. + +Click to expand... + + +Are you saying this mechanic determined the cause of the sound you're hearing from under the helm without having heard it himself? If so, I'd pass on his service. I'd also suggest you register on the web forum yamahaoutboardparts.com + +Start a new thread providing model/year of engine and the description of issue. While this forum here is useful, the above mentioned forum has a number of members that will provide you with more accurate advice and perhaps even the solution. A few members are even master Yam mechanics. Good luck.","Tailspotter said: + + + + Thanks Classic. Talked to my mechanic (first time I am using him) and he said it was the main shaft bushings so he has to drop the lower units of both motors and replace the bushings and the sound was coming from the engines and not an alarm at all. Well I clearly heard the noise coming from under the helm. The helm and the engines are 8 feet apart. I don't want to be one of those guys but I know where the noise was coming from and it was not the motors. I need to go for a ride with him and let him sit next to the helm access door. + +Click to expand... + + +Are you saying this mechanic determined the cause of the sound you're hearing from under the helm without having heard it himself? If so, I'd pass on his service. I'd also suggest you register on the web forum yamahaoutboardparts.com + +Start a new thread providing model/year of engine and the description of issue. While this forum here is useful, the above mentioned forum has a number of members that will provide you with more accurate advice and perhaps even the solution. A few members are even master Yam mechanics. Good luck.","I ran the thing dry when last used: I turned fuel cock off, and ran it until it stopped. Though I am prepared to accept that this may not in fact be fully empty - just not enough fuel to run. The fuel leakage is from the underside of the black plastic face plate/air intake assembly. It looks a bit of a pig to take off! + +Best Regds + +Andrew" +"Ok...Just purchased this boat and first 2 times out were great. Went out this weekend and went to go on plane and at 4k rpms.started hearing alarm sound. No indication from the gages what it was. did not feel any problems with the motor. New to Yamahas so this ""alarm"" did not sound loud enough to be the motor but what else could it be? Sound is definitely coming from under the helm and only when I get up to 4k and beyond. +Just one long continuous alarm until I get back down past 4K?? I tried running just one motor at a time to see if I could find out which motor it was but could not get alarm to go on?? Like I said I just bought this boat so I am hoping (probably a dream) that this is some easy fix...Help anyone!! Thanks!!","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Are you saying this mechanic determined the cause of the sound you're hearing from under the helm without having heard it himself? If so, I'd pass on his service. I'd also suggest you register on the web forum yamahaoutboardparts.com + +Start a new thread providing model/year of engine and the description of issue. While this forum here is useful, the above mentioned forum has a number of members that will provide you with more accurate advice and perhaps even the solution. A few members are even master Yam mechanics. Good luck. + +Click to expand... + + + + +Thanks for the advice!!","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Are you saying this mechanic determined the cause of the sound you're hearing from under the helm without having heard it himself? If so, I'd pass on his service. I'd also suggest you register on the web forum yamahaoutboardparts.com + +Start a new thread providing model/year of engine and the description of issue. While this forum here is useful, the above mentioned forum has a number of members that will provide you with more accurate advice and perhaps even the solution. A few members are even master Yam mechanics. Good luck. + +Click to expand... + + + + +Thanks for the advice!!","Tow Boat US....insurance....im looking into that right now! i guess one good thing i got on my side is i will only boat on 1 of the 3 rivers we got here in pittsburgh. i never ever plan on being out of reach of someone. the people here on the water are very friendly and will help if needed. its like a band of brothers...but on the water, lol...everyone is saying sell the boat...so insteal, i bought another engine to go in the boat in the case this one blows up. its a 300 or a 3000....what ever engine that replaces it. so thats my plan..im searching for a list of the bouys so i can laminate them and put them on my boat so i dont forget. I cant find moaring cover for my boat...do they have to be custom made for the boat? at any rate, if it goes bad, i got my eye on a 21'bayliner...lol.... + +thanks guys + ken" +"I have a Yamaha 50 Deto #6H5-S 110142 needing info as Yamaha has no Data, think its a non USA 1983. I am needing lower unit and question if 1984 parts will fit","Definitely a non USA Yamaha. + +Most any parts for a USA 1984 50ETSN/50ETLN will work. S for short shaft and L for long shaft.","Definitely a non USA Yamaha. + +Most any parts for a USA 1984 50ETSN/50ETLN will work. S for short shaft and L for long shaft.","Stuart Allen said: + + + + Hey there + +There are a few things that could be going on here. Given you said you cleaned the reed valves and it starts easily I'm presuming those valves where closing well. If they don't they can cause fuel to come back out through the carburettors. Also, because you cleaned the carburettors I'm going to assume the needle and seat for the float bowl is working well and the fuel pump isn't causing them to overflow. From the smoke and fuel is sounds like it is running rich. Are the chokes opening completely? You may also need to balance the carbs with a set of vacuum gauges to smooth out that idle, but it sounds like you've got something a bit more seriously wrong with it first. I'd also be inclined to put a timing light on it and see where it is at there. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Good morning stuart and thanks for your reply + +Yes, the seat and needle for the carburetor are OK. I took them out last night to double check. +The choke is also opening completely, so it's OK too + +Just for the hell of it, I'm going to take apart the reed valves and check them again, if everything is fine, I'll put it back together tonight and tomorrow I will borrow a timing light from work and see how the ignition timing is" +"I have a Yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke model 0115TLRP, (serial 6E5-L-320813), which starts up and idles, but it runs really rough with ""sneezing/coughing"" and smoke. This engine has 4 cylinders. +Thinking it has something to do with fuel I removed and cleaned the carbs and blew out the jets, then installed new gaskets (carbs to engine), changed the fuel pump, removed the 6 month old gas and put in new gasoline (50:1 mix) with a small amount of Sea Foam. Also, installed new filters all around. +Then, I fidgeted with the 5 adjustment screws on the carbs…(4 for each of the cylinders’ fuel jets, and the one idle screw), but it still runs really rough. +Question: does anyone have a link to a repair manual for this outboard engine, and can anyone help with some advice as to what to look for next?","Here is a link that will direct you the service manual for a 1991 115TRLP: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...991-yamaha-115p-130p-150p-175p-200p-225p/file + +To my knowledge, each carb has 2 air adjustment screws (aka mix screws, aka pilot screws)...1 screw for each of the 4 cylinders. These screws meter the amount of air administered into the air/fuel circuit. There is also a idle adjustment screw. However, this screw does not effect the mix. It functions to increase or decrease idle throttle. + +Sneeze/cough is attributed to a lean mix. Assuming the smoke is white, this is caused by the seafoam, which is normal. If you look in the service manual at chapter 2 page 5, you'll see the spec setting for the pilot screws are 5/8 +/- 1/4 turns out. This spec is more or less a starting point for fine tuning carbs. Remove upper cowling, silencer, and then put the engine on muffs. Allow engine to warm up to normal operating temp (10-15min depending on your climate). Cut engine off. Then use the following procedure to tune carbs and idle speed: + +* Turn in each of the 4 pilot screws until they seat (do this gently, as you don't want to break the needle). Take note of how many turns each screws takes to seat. + +* Turn out each of the 4 screws 5/8 turns. + +* Back out the idle adjustment screw so it's not touching the lever (throttle plates closed). + +* Now turn in this screw so it's touching the lever, then turn in a tad (you want throttle plates to be slightly open) + +* Start engine and observe the rpms and listen to how the engine idles. + +* If engine struggles to remain running turn each of the 4 screws a 1/4 turn IN (less air => richer mix). If this causes rpms to increase and engine to idle better, then continue to turn screws IN 1/4 until engine is happiest. Then skip to last step. If the engine stalls, continue below. + +* While engine is off, turn OUT each screw the 1/4 turn you just turned in (now your back to 5/8), then turn each screw OUT another 1/4. Restart engine. Rpms should be slightly higher and engine should idle better. Continue to turn each screw 1/4 OUT until the engine is happiest. + +* Final step is to fine tune idle rpms now that you've fine tuned the mix. Check your rpm gauge before turning idle adjustment screw. You want 750+/- 50. Turning IN screw will increase rpms, OUT decreases. A very very small turn equates to a large increase/decrease of rpms.","Here is a link that will direct you the service manual for a 1991 115TRLP: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...991-yamaha-115p-130p-150p-175p-200p-225p/file + +To my knowledge, each carb has 2 air adjustment screws (aka mix screws, aka pilot screws)...1 screw for each of the 4 cylinders. These screws meter the amount of air administered into the air/fuel circuit. There is also a idle adjustment screw. However, this screw does not effect the mix. It functions to increase or decrease idle throttle. + +Sneeze/cough is attributed to a lean mix. Assuming the smoke is white, this is caused by the seafoam, which is normal. If you look in the service manual at chapter 2 page 5, you'll see the spec setting for the pilot screws are 5/8 +/- 1/4 turns out. This spec is more or less a starting point for fine tuning carbs. Remove upper cowling, silencer, and then put the engine on muffs. Allow engine to warm up to normal operating temp (10-15min depending on your climate). Cut engine off. Then use the following procedure to tune carbs and idle speed: + +* Turn in each of the 4 pilot screws until they seat (do this gently, as you don't want to break the needle). Take note of how many turns each screws takes to seat. + +* Turn out each of the 4 screws 5/8 turns. + +* Back out the idle adjustment screw so it's not touching the lever (throttle plates closed). + +* Now turn in this screw so it's touching the lever, then turn in a tad (you want throttle plates to be slightly open) + +* Start engine and observe the rpms and listen to how the engine idles. + +* If engine struggles to remain running turn each of the 4 screws a 1/4 turn IN (less air => richer mix). If this causes rpms to increase and engine to idle better, then continue to turn screws IN 1/4 until engine is happiest. Then skip to last step. If the engine stalls, continue below. + +* While engine is off, turn OUT each screw the 1/4 turn you just turned in (now your back to 5/8), then turn each screw OUT another 1/4. Restart engine. Rpms should be slightly higher and engine should idle better. Continue to turn each screw 1/4 OUT until the engine is happiest. + +* Final step is to fine tune idle rpms now that you've fine tuned the mix. Check your rpm gauge before turning idle adjustment screw. You want 750+/- 50. Turning IN screw will increase rpms, OUT decreases. A very very small turn equates to a large increase/decrease of rpms.","A plate was something I originally was going to add just for additional strength, although I was intending a lot wider and possibly full width. Since I have got marine ply already it'd be easy to add an additional layer of transom glassed in on the inside of the boat if I wanted to, assuming the outboard clamp would still go over it. + +I've seen it done on plenty of boats over the year, and while there is always the perennial argument that if it needs one then it needs gutting out, I wouldn't be adding one for the sake of needing one but for strength above what is required since things are always built to a cost! Easy to ask ""why bother?"", but more difficult to answer ""why not!"" + +A splash well of some sort will be on the cards too as the water here gets pretty choppy and I don't like the idea of how exposed it is compared to my previous boats even though this is a tried & tested design. + +Anyway, it's been chucking down for days here but tomorrow is forecast better, so all being well I'll remove the cap and begin further investigation. +The test bore drills I've done so far brought out good wood - to clarify, they went through the full thickness of the core, hence my previous assertions that the wood checked thus far is solid and sound. All of it that came out was good in fact but I need to do a lot more yet. + +Just received my moisture meter today so that will help see what's what, although I wouldn't rely on it as such. + +When you refer to sea water exposure is it the case that the salt in the water is something that fungal rot cannot tolerate? Or some other reason why it would be less bad than rainwater? + + +And yes, teak would be lovely as I am very fond of wood and have recently started practising a little more refined woodwork than I traditionally have been capable of so it's certainly an option. That said, it'd still need to be very securely capped beneath that anyway to ensure a proper watertight seal. I do already have some lengths of Iroko, which is very similar and often used in place of teak. + +A sad day today since my previous boat was taken away by her new owner. I feel bad about having to concede on time factors when I'd always wanted that specific kind of boat but you have to make decisions from time to time. I have a bit more space at least now! + + + + + +Hope she gets the TLC she really deserves now with someone who has enough time to see her right, but it did make me fill up a bit to see her get driven away." +"I have a Yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke model 0115TLRP, (serial 6E5-L-320813), which starts up and idles, but it runs really rough with ""sneezing/coughing"" and smoke. This engine has 4 cylinders. +Thinking it has something to do with fuel I removed and cleaned the carbs and blew out the jets, then installed new gaskets (carbs to engine), changed the fuel pump, removed the 6 month old gas and put in new gasoline (50:1 mix) with a small amount of Sea Foam. Also, installed new filters all around. +Then, I fidgeted with the 5 adjustment screws on the carbs…(4 for each of the cylinders’ fuel jets, and the one idle screw), but it still runs really rough. +Question: does anyone have a link to a repair manual for this outboard engine, and can anyone help with some advice as to what to look for next?","Side note: Tuning carbs is more or less a learned experience verses following directions directly from a manual. You might find that the 4 pilot screws are turned out to a different setting in order for the engine to be happiest. This is ok. And it's ok to turn these screws in/out during carb tuning until you found the perfect setting, as you won't hurt anything as longer as the final setting allows for optimal performance. When the screws aren't set correctly is when over time you'll find decreasing engine performance...which is what you're experiencing now.","Side note: Tuning carbs is more or less a learned experience verses following directions directly from a manual. You might find that the 4 pilot screws are turned out to a different setting in order for the engine to be happiest. This is ok. And it's ok to turn these screws in/out during carb tuning until you found the perfect setting, as you won't hurt anything as longer as the final setting allows for optimal performance. When the screws aren't set correctly is when over time you'll find decreasing engine performance...which is what you're experiencing now.","Having 'hard to start when hot issue' with my 2004 F150 - runs great, idles great, starts great when cold, have to crack throttle to start when hot and it sounds like it's flooded (starts rough, like fouled plugs) Can you send me the link to the bulletin? Thanks! [email protected]" +"I have a Yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke model 0115TLRP, (serial 6E5-L-320813), which starts up and idles, but it runs really rough with ""sneezing/coughing"" and smoke. This engine has 4 cylinders. +Thinking it has something to do with fuel I removed and cleaned the carbs and blew out the jets, then installed new gaskets (carbs to engine), changed the fuel pump, removed the 6 month old gas and put in new gasoline (50:1 mix) with a small amount of Sea Foam. Also, installed new filters all around. +Then, I fidgeted with the 5 adjustment screws on the carbs…(4 for each of the cylinders’ fuel jets, and the one idle screw), but it still runs really rough. +Question: does anyone have a link to a repair manual for this outboard engine, and can anyone help with some advice as to what to look for next?","wow, this is the best advice I've ever seen given to anyone, on any forum. You are a blessing indeed. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I sincerely thank you. +I have done what you advise and I thank you again for the link to the information about this engine. +The engine is now running pretty good with the new air/fuel screw adjustments. I do realize that carb tuning is more of an art than science. However, I also checked the timing with a timing lite and found the timing to be off a couple of degrees. My next step is to follow a friends advice and put the boat in the water, and check the carbs and timing there where I may find that it runs a bit differently than while on the hard. Better I hope. I'm also wondering if it may be worth my while to buy a set of gauges to attempt to ""sync the carbs."" I've seen a few YouTubes that explain syncing, but I'm not sure if it is worth the effort. I don't see anything about syncing in the service manual, so it may not even be possible for this engine. +Thank you again. +You are the best! +Jim","wow, this is the best advice I've ever seen given to anyone, on any forum. You are a blessing indeed. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I sincerely thank you. +I have done what you advise and I thank you again for the link to the information about this engine. +The engine is now running pretty good with the new air/fuel screw adjustments. I do realize that carb tuning is more of an art than science. However, I also checked the timing with a timing lite and found the timing to be off a couple of degrees. My next step is to follow a friends advice and put the boat in the water, and check the carbs and timing there where I may find that it runs a bit differently than while on the hard. Better I hope. I'm also wondering if it may be worth my while to buy a set of gauges to attempt to ""sync the carbs."" I've seen a few YouTubes that explain syncing, but I'm not sure if it is worth the effort. I don't see anything about syncing in the service manual, so it may not even be possible for this engine. +Thank you again. +You are the best! +Jim",My P165 is a 1971. I believe that one in the video is a later year. I brought it to the dealer and he told me it was a 71 and had no tell tale. +"I have a Yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke model 0115TLRP, (serial 6E5-L-320813), which starts up and idles, but it runs really rough with ""sneezing/coughing"" and smoke. This engine has 4 cylinders. +Thinking it has something to do with fuel I removed and cleaned the carbs and blew out the jets, then installed new gaskets (carbs to engine), changed the fuel pump, removed the 6 month old gas and put in new gasoline (50:1 mix) with a small amount of Sea Foam. Also, installed new filters all around. +Then, I fidgeted with the 5 adjustment screws on the carbs…(4 for each of the cylinders’ fuel jets, and the one idle screw), but it still runs really rough. +Question: does anyone have a link to a repair manual for this outboard engine, and can anyone help with some advice as to what to look for next?","judojim said: + + + + however, I also checked the timing with a timing lite and found the timing to be off a couple of degrees. My next step is to follow a friends advice and put the boat in the water, and check the carbs and timing there where I may find that it runs a bit differently than while on the hard. Better I hope. I'm also wondering if it may be worth my while to buy a set of gauges to attempt to ""sync the carbs."" I've seen a few YouTubes that explain syncing, but I'm not sure if it is worth the effort. I don't see anything about syncing in the service manual, so it may not even be possible for this engine. + +Click to expand... + + +My pleasure, glad to hear it's running better. Now that you have a service manual, follow the instructions for setting the timing. It makes no difference if boat is in or out of water for this adjustment. However, as I mentioned in my previous, the engine should be at normal operating temp prior to syncing carbs. + +Re: carb sync gauge +The intake of newer model engines are designed to allow for the hose hook ups that connect to the gauge. But your engine does not. I'm sure a master mechanic could figure out how to do it, but the old school method detailed in the manual does the job.","judojim said: + + + + however, I also checked the timing with a timing lite and found the timing to be off a couple of degrees. My next step is to follow a friends advice and put the boat in the water, and check the carbs and timing there where I may find that it runs a bit differently than while on the hard. Better I hope. I'm also wondering if it may be worth my while to buy a set of gauges to attempt to ""sync the carbs."" I've seen a few YouTubes that explain syncing, but I'm not sure if it is worth the effort. I don't see anything about syncing in the service manual, so it may not even be possible for this engine. + +Click to expand... + + +My pleasure, glad to hear it's running better. Now that you have a service manual, follow the instructions for setting the timing. It makes no difference if boat is in or out of water for this adjustment. However, as I mentioned in my previous, the engine should be at normal operating temp prior to syncing carbs. + +Re: carb sync gauge +The intake of newer model engines are designed to allow for the hose hook ups that connect to the gauge. But your engine does not. I'm sure a master mechanic could figure out how to do it, but the old school method detailed in the manual does the job.","The wood shouldn't be considered part of the hull structure. Rather, it is a form over which sufficient glass and resin is laid in order to make a strong platform. Clearly the original bad hull design and poor factory layup allowed water to get into the weak structure and the weight of the engine hastened the crush. +You probably want at least 1/4 to 3/8 thick layup over everything in that area. Be certain that the bed is well tabbed to the hull at least 8 inches out all the way around. You can actually use styrofoam or the blue insulation foam that Home Depot carries as core material. It's a lot easier to form than wood. Manufacturers use wood because it's cheap, you can find people who know how to cut and form it pretty easy, and it's forgiving enough that bad layup and tabbing won't be a huge disater...at least for many years...long enough that the warranty will be over. Modern boat construction uses very little in the way of core, using preformed ""egg crate"" inner structures or other similar preforms. +To my eye it looks like your layup is very resin rich. You really want the very least amount of resin that will thoroughly wet out the fabric. You are using a resin roller?" +"I have a Yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke model 0115TLRP, (serial 6E5-L-320813), which starts up and idles, but it runs really rough with ""sneezing/coughing"" and smoke. This engine has 4 cylinders. +Thinking it has something to do with fuel I removed and cleaned the carbs and blew out the jets, then installed new gaskets (carbs to engine), changed the fuel pump, removed the 6 month old gas and put in new gasoline (50:1 mix) with a small amount of Sea Foam. Also, installed new filters all around. +Then, I fidgeted with the 5 adjustment screws on the carbs…(4 for each of the cylinders’ fuel jets, and the one idle screw), but it still runs really rough. +Question: does anyone have a link to a repair manual for this outboard engine, and can anyone help with some advice as to what to look for next?","Thanks again, I will follow your advice and use the service manual you sent me to adjust timing. +However, I think I found the intake vacuum hoses. (see photo). They were all painted blue (like the engine) and hard to see, so if I have trouble trying to measure the timing linkages as described in the manual, then I may try to find some gauges and use these vacuum tubes for further refinement. +Thanks a lot. +Your the best. +Jim","Thanks again, I will follow your advice and use the service manual you sent me to adjust timing. +However, I think I found the intake vacuum hoses. (see photo). They were all painted blue (like the engine) and hard to see, so if I have trouble trying to measure the timing linkages as described in the manual, then I may try to find some gauges and use these vacuum tubes for further refinement. +Thanks a lot. +Your the best. +Jim","Frankly. Stats are cheap enough. If you are concerned, replace. You can also check it in boiling water. You’ll see if it still works." +"I have a Yamaha 115 hp 2 stroke model 0115TLRP, (serial 6E5-L-320813), which starts up and idles, but it runs really rough with ""sneezing/coughing"" and smoke. This engine has 4 cylinders. +Thinking it has something to do with fuel I removed and cleaned the carbs and blew out the jets, then installed new gaskets (carbs to engine), changed the fuel pump, removed the 6 month old gas and put in new gasoline (50:1 mix) with a small amount of Sea Foam. Also, installed new filters all around. +Then, I fidgeted with the 5 adjustment screws on the carbs…(4 for each of the cylinders’ fuel jets, and the one idle screw), but it still runs really rough. +Question: does anyone have a link to a repair manual for this outboard engine, and can anyone help with some advice as to what to look for next?","judojim said: + + + + However, I think I found the intake vacuum hoses. + +Click to expand... + + +There are no vacuum ports on the intake of 2 strokes to attach a carb tuner. I know exactly what the arrow in your picture is pointing at...I thought the same thing with my '98 2 stroke. But that nozzle is not removable. Intakes designed to allow for a carb tuner have a hole on each manifold. The hole is plugged with a threaded screw. Prior to carb tuning, you unscrew the plugs and screw in the tuner's vacuum tube. + +Prior to their discontinuation, it's quite possible 2 strokes of the early 2000's have these ports. But definitely not a 1991 engine, such as yours.","judojim said: + + + + However, I think I found the intake vacuum hoses. + +Click to expand... + + +There are no vacuum ports on the intake of 2 strokes to attach a carb tuner. I know exactly what the arrow in your picture is pointing at...I thought the same thing with my '98 2 stroke. But that nozzle is not removable. Intakes designed to allow for a carb tuner have a hole on each manifold. The hole is plugged with a threaded screw. Prior to carb tuning, you unscrew the plugs and screw in the tuner's vacuum tube. + +Prior to their discontinuation, it's quite possible 2 strokes of the early 2000's have these ports. But definitely not a 1991 engine, such as yours.","Try the inner web. Ebay. + +http://www.411marine.com/parts" +"My 1997 Yamaha 90CTLV outboard tilt/trim sender has a 3 wires, the trim gauge is a Sierra Marine Eclipse Series 2'' Trim Indicator Replacement Gauge - Trim, Yamaha, O/B, pre-2001. Can someone assist in matching the wires to the gauge? thx.",Black wire with ring terminal to ground. Blue wire to Up on gauge green wire to down.,Black wire with ring terminal to ground. Blue wire to Up on gauge green wire to down.,"The first thing to check is that you had the right oil/fuel mix. +Then i would move onto making sure the cooling water is getting round the engine and is producing the tell tale. +As mentioned above, also pull the thermosensors out and check that they are all as they should be. +to be honest chances are that it is just electrical seeing as you don't even have to be running for this issue to occur." +"My 1997 Yamaha 90CTLV outboard tilt/trim sender has a 3 wires, the trim gauge is a Sierra Marine Eclipse Series 2'' Trim Indicator Replacement Gauge - Trim, Yamaha, O/B, pre-2001. Can someone assist in matching the wires to the gauge? thx.","Jim Marshall said: + + + + Black wire with ring terminal to ground. Blue wire to Up on gauge green wire to down. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks for the reply, it I am still confused. The three wires coming from the sender are black, orange and pink. The terminals on the gauge are marked G, I and S. So not much is matching.","Jim Marshall said: + + + + Black wire with ring terminal to ground. Blue wire to Up on gauge green wire to down. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks for the reply, it I am still confused. The three wires coming from the sender are black, orange and pink. The terminals on the gauge are marked G, I and S. So not much is matching.","Try a cylinder drop test,pulling one plug wire at a time with plastic pliers,listen for a sound and rpm change, The one with no change is the bad one" +"My 1997 Yamaha 90CTLV outboard tilt/trim sender has a 3 wires, the trim gauge is a Sierra Marine Eclipse Series 2'' Trim Indicator Replacement Gauge - Trim, Yamaha, O/B, pre-2001. Can someone assist in matching the wires to the gauge? thx.","black should be ground or negative. Orange would be the I or ignition, and the Pink would be the S or sending unit","black should be ground or negative. Orange would be the I or ignition, and the Pink would be the S or sending unit",F150 and 2 stroke ??-------------------Post the model number of your motor first. +"My 1997 Yamaha 90CTLV outboard tilt/trim sender has a 3 wires, the trim gauge is a Sierra Marine Eclipse Series 2'' Trim Indicator Replacement Gauge - Trim, Yamaha, O/B, pre-2001. Can someone assist in matching the wires to the gauge? thx.","Jim Marshall said: + + + + black should be ground or negative. Orange would be the I or ignition, and the Pink would be the S or sending unit + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you Jim .. I will give it a try tomorrow ...","Jim Marshall said: + + + + black should be ground or negative. Orange would be the I or ignition, and the Pink would be the S or sending unit + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you Jim .. I will give it a try tomorrow ...","you can use a higher rating octane as it will not effect your engine performance however it will build up carbon in your combustion camber and other componets faster than lower rated octane but one use will not hurt +now with that being said if you have an engine that is rated for 93 octane and you use 85 you will have alot of problems as it can cause pre ignition." +"My 1997 Yamaha 90CTLV outboard tilt/trim sender has a 3 wires, the trim gauge is a Sierra Marine Eclipse Series 2'' Trim Indicator Replacement Gauge - Trim, Yamaha, O/B, pre-2001. Can someone assist in matching the wires to the gauge? thx.",You're very welcome.,You're very welcome.,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb. + +With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets? + +By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html + +Click to expand... + +thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again" +"My 1997 Yamaha 90CTLV outboard tilt/trim sender has a 3 wires, the trim gauge is a Sierra Marine Eclipse Series 2'' Trim Indicator Replacement Gauge - Trim, Yamaha, O/B, pre-2001. Can someone assist in matching the wires to the gauge? thx.","Jim Marshall said: + + + + You're very welcome. + +Click to expand... + +Wired as you suggested, gauge still not working. probably a bad sending unit, do you know what would need to be replaced? thx.","Jim Marshall said: + + + + You're very welcome. + +Click to expand... + +Wired as you suggested, gauge still not working. probably a bad sending unit, do you know what would need to be replaced? thx.","What do you mean by 'power steering'? + +A boat that small would typically just use a cable...a hydraulic steering system would be overkill - nice but not necessary. + +I would suggest disconnecting the outboard's steering link and then try pivoting the outboard and rotate the steering wheel...one will have much resistance and the other will likely have little resistance. If it is the steering wheel that remains difficult to turn, then you likely have corrosion within the support tube, where the cable rides..." +"My 1997 Yamaha 90CTLV outboard tilt/trim sender has a 3 wires, the trim gauge is a Sierra Marine Eclipse Series 2'' Trim Indicator Replacement Gauge - Trim, Yamaha, O/B, pre-2001. Can someone assist in matching the wires to the gauge? thx.","Methinks the trim and tilt pump motor wiring is getting confused with the trim sender wiring. + +The three wire Yamaha sender requires a 5 volt power supply. Normally it comes from a Yamaha tachometer. The orange wire provides the 5 volts. Black is ground. Pink is the sender signal. + +Is the trim gauge you have designed for a Yamaha three wire sender? Seems so. What are the wire colours or markings on the post terminals?","Methinks the trim and tilt pump motor wiring is getting confused with the trim sender wiring. + +The three wire Yamaha sender requires a 5 volt power supply. Normally it comes from a Yamaha tachometer. The orange wire provides the 5 volts. Black is ground. Pink is the sender signal. + +Is the trim gauge you have designed for a Yamaha three wire sender? Seems so. What are the wire colours or markings on the post terminals?",Yes it is. +"My 1997 Yamaha 90CTLV outboard tilt/trim sender has a 3 wires, the trim gauge is a Sierra Marine Eclipse Series 2'' Trim Indicator Replacement Gauge - Trim, Yamaha, O/B, pre-2001. Can someone assist in matching the wires to the gauge? thx.","boscoe said: + + + + Methinks the trim and tilt pump motor wiring is getting confused with the trim sender wiring. + +The three wire Yamaha sender requires a 5 volt power supply. Normally it comes from a Yamaha tachometer. The orange wire provides the 5 volts. Black is ground. Pink is the sender signal. + +Is the trim gauge you have designed for a Yamaha three wire sender? Seems so. What are the wire colours or markings on the post terminals? + +Click to expand... + + +The posts are marked G, I, S. Thx","boscoe said: + + + + Methinks the trim and tilt pump motor wiring is getting confused with the trim sender wiring. + +The three wire Yamaha sender requires a 5 volt power supply. Normally it comes from a Yamaha tachometer. The orange wire provides the 5 volts. Black is ground. Pink is the sender signal. + +Is the trim gauge you have designed for a Yamaha three wire sender? Seems so. What are the wire colours or markings on the post terminals? + +Click to expand... + + +The posts are marked G, I, S. Thx","Yes, I've read the same and it makes sense. I would go with a 10 micron." +"My 1997 Yamaha 90CTLV outboard tilt/trim sender has a 3 wires, the trim gauge is a Sierra Marine Eclipse Series 2'' Trim Indicator Replacement Gauge - Trim, Yamaha, O/B, pre-2001. Can someone assist in matching the wires to the gauge? thx.","Hmmmm. Got me wondering. + +The Yamaha three wire sender is a potentiometer. It is designed to have a set voltage applied to it. The output voltage is interpreted by a Yamaha gauge to determine the engine trim angle. + +I am wondering if the Sierra gauge for a pre 2001 Yamaha is designed to work solely on the resistance of the potentiometer. That would be my best guess. If so, connect the ground wire from the sender to the ground terminal (G) on the gauge. Connect the pink wire from the sender to the sender terminal (S) on the gauge. The I terminal will be connected to a key on power source. Normally the yellow wire from a key switch. The G terminal on the gauge will also need to be connected to the battery ground. The black wire from a Yamaha key switch. + +See if the gauge works correctly. If the gauge now works but is backwards, let us know.","Hmmmm. Got me wondering. + +The Yamaha three wire sender is a potentiometer. It is designed to have a set voltage applied to it. The output voltage is interpreted by a Yamaha gauge to determine the engine trim angle. + +I am wondering if the Sierra gauge for a pre 2001 Yamaha is designed to work solely on the resistance of the potentiometer. That would be my best guess. If so, connect the ground wire from the sender to the ground terminal (G) on the gauge. Connect the pink wire from the sender to the sender terminal (S) on the gauge. The I terminal will be connected to a key on power source. Normally the yellow wire from a key switch. The G terminal on the gauge will also need to be connected to the battery ground. The black wire from a Yamaha key switch. + +See if the gauge works correctly. If the gauge now works but is backwards, let us know.","Are you still looking for a trade? I want to swap an Evinrude plate for a Johnson plate. + +September" +"My 1997 Yamaha 90CTLV outboard tilt/trim sender has a 3 wires, the trim gauge is a Sierra Marine Eclipse Series 2'' Trim Indicator Replacement Gauge - Trim, Yamaha, O/B, pre-2001. Can someone assist in matching the wires to the gauge? thx.","boscoe said: + + + + Hmmmm. Got me wondering. + +The Yamaha three wire sender is a potentiometer. It is designed to have a set voltage applied to it. The output voltage is interpreted by a Yamaha gauge to determine the engine trim angle. + +I am wondering if the Sierra gauge for a pre 2001 Yamaha is designed to work solely on the resistance of the potentiometer. That would be my best guess. If so, connect the ground wire from the sender to the ground terminal (G) on the gauge. Connect the pink wire from the sender to the sender terminal (S) on the gauge. The I terminal will be connected to a key on power source. Normally the yellow wire from a key switch. The G terminal on the gauge will also need to be connected to the battery ground. The black wire from a Yamaha key switch. + +See if the gauge works correctly. If the gauge now works but is backwards, let us know. + +Click to expand... + + +That worked, gauge is now registering correctly. thanks for the help .. Tanta","boscoe said: + + + + Hmmmm. Got me wondering. + +The Yamaha three wire sender is a potentiometer. It is designed to have a set voltage applied to it. The output voltage is interpreted by a Yamaha gauge to determine the engine trim angle. + +I am wondering if the Sierra gauge for a pre 2001 Yamaha is designed to work solely on the resistance of the potentiometer. That would be my best guess. If so, connect the ground wire from the sender to the ground terminal (G) on the gauge. Connect the pink wire from the sender to the sender terminal (S) on the gauge. The I terminal will be connected to a key on power source. Normally the yellow wire from a key switch. The G terminal on the gauge will also need to be connected to the battery ground. The black wire from a Yamaha key switch. + +See if the gauge works correctly. If the gauge now works but is backwards, let us know. + +Click to expand... + + +That worked, gauge is now registering correctly. thanks for the help .. Tanta","It is never good to have a indirect short how fast will it drain a fully charged battery? The quick fix is a battery switch at the battery or a dual battery switch. You can turn the switch off and charge the battery safely without disconnecting it. Install a new fuse block with a grounding bar and just start from scratch and fuse everything. Keep the ignition system and guages on its own circuit and run everything else off of the accy fuse block. I also put a accy master power light on the dash it is easy to leave the power on. If you pull two large guage wire from the battery to the fuse block + and - be sure and fuse the pos wire at the battery also and that will make it easier to add appliances. Use marine grade tinned wire, solder the lug ends and shrink wrap the solder ends. +http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-60...ash=item27e9265bf2:g:HosAAOSw-jhUEfMr&vxp=mtr" +"Marina didnt winterize to boat well and carbs must had the ethnol 'melt"" the viton tips of the Needles. +At this point it seems they are ""epoxied"" to the seat + + +So far I have tried- +a. Pulling with needle nose. -broke tip off. +b. Soaking with penetrant and carb/Air intake cleaner +c. filling inlet with penetrant and blowing with 125psi +d. Drilling out aluminum needle bodies...now im down to the tips. +e./ Soaking agin and blowing with air. + +So... any ideas? I don't want to drill further and ruin the seat + + +Thoughts on getting the rest of rubber tips out so I can rebuild","How about trying acetone, ethyl acetate, or even fingernail polish remover. Any one of these are powerful diluents, as well as they would not adversely effect the carb body.","How about trying acetone, ethyl acetate, or even fingernail polish remover. Any one of these are powerful diluents, as well as they would not adversely effect the carb body.","You need marine cables with tinned strands if you want them to last. Standard jumper cables will corrode fairly quickly, especially if around salt water. Minimum size would be 6 gauge IMO." +"I have an S200TXRV '97 model year that hasn't been used for a year or more. I got it running after cleaning the fuel system and rebuilding the carburetors. + +It was running fine for fifteen minutes or so at idle, 700 rpms +/-, using a hose and muff's for cooling water. The engine just stopped on it own and I saw smoke coming from the CDI, or ignition pack and smelled that electrical plastic burning smell. The engine wasn't overheated it was only about 150 degrees on the heads. + +I removed the cover and there is small hole burned through it near the center. What might be some of the causes of this. It is obviously the original CDI, so my first suspicion is old age. + +Given the cost of a new unit at more than $1,000.00 I am reluctant to just put another one on and try starting it. I will greatly appreciate your advice.","Sh1t just sometimes happens. Parts fail internally and smoke gets out. + +There is little external that I can think of that will cause an internal failure of a CDI. + +You can find them used on Ebay for much less than the price of a new one. + +Would not hurt to inspect all electrical connections to make sure every thing is clean and tight.","Sh1t just sometimes happens. Parts fail internally and smoke gets out. + +There is little external that I can think of that will cause an internal failure of a CDI. + +You can find them used on Ebay for much less than the price of a new one. + +Would not hurt to inspect all electrical connections to make sure every thing is clean and tight.","Sorry about the no model/year(rookie mistake) +2005 200hp. SX200TXRD +You pretty much answered my question. + +The algae is from moisture(mold). + +IF??? the boat sets for long periods and the condensation forms the oil grows mold/algae. + +The mold is heavier than the oil and in the early stages it's small enough to go from one tank to another and then when the boat is used the oil is agitated and then it tries to flow and the build up flows into the pump and lines blocking it off. +The tank is full and can't tell it's blocked and POW engine failure." +"I have an S200TXRV '97 model year that hasn't been used for a year or more. I got it running after cleaning the fuel system and rebuilding the carburetors. + +It was running fine for fifteen minutes or so at idle, 700 rpms +/-, using a hose and muff's for cooling water. The engine just stopped on it own and I saw smoke coming from the CDI, or ignition pack and smelled that electrical plastic burning smell. The engine wasn't overheated it was only about 150 degrees on the heads. + +I removed the cover and there is small hole burned through it near the center. What might be some of the causes of this. It is obviously the original CDI, so my first suspicion is old age. + +Given the cost of a new unit at more than $1,000.00 I am reluctant to just put another one on and try starting it. I will greatly appreciate your advice.","Thanks Boscoe. I was wondering along the lines if something could have caused a power surge unbeknownst to me. And yes, I will go the used route.","Thanks Boscoe. I was wondering along the lines if something could have caused a power surge unbeknownst to me. And yes, I will go the used route.",without knowing how your boat is wired its going to be hard to help you...how many fuses are in the boat and what does the blown fuse feed?....when does it blow?.....does it blow when you operate the battery disconnect for example?...we need more info....i do not and have never used a battery disconnect switch...what is the purpose of it?..i use two batteries but they are completely isolated...the only battery i charge with the boat charging system is the ignition battery....and that is only a maintenance charge......both batteries are charged with external charger before i put the boat in the water...my theory on that is the less current drawn from the stator the less heat and the chances of a stator meltdown is reduced.... +"I have an S200TXRV '97 model year that hasn't been used for a year or more. I got it running after cleaning the fuel system and rebuilding the carburetors. + +It was running fine for fifteen minutes or so at idle, 700 rpms +/-, using a hose and muff's for cooling water. The engine just stopped on it own and I saw smoke coming from the CDI, or ignition pack and smelled that electrical plastic burning smell. The engine wasn't overheated it was only about 150 degrees on the heads. + +I removed the cover and there is small hole burned through it near the center. What might be some of the causes of this. It is obviously the original CDI, so my first suspicion is old age. + +Given the cost of a new unit at more than $1,000.00 I am reluctant to just put another one on and try starting it. I will greatly appreciate your advice.","Also watch out for frayed insulation on the wires-short circuit after vibration of the motor and fraying of the wires would instantly toast the cdi. also have a look at the cdi electronics manual and check the resistances on the wires so as to be sure that you don't fry the next cdi. it is not necessary to check the frequencies and etc with a fancy meter, just the resistances with a regular meter. just a good quick check.","Also watch out for frayed insulation on the wires-short circuit after vibration of the motor and fraying of the wires would instantly toast the cdi. also have a look at the cdi electronics manual and check the resistances on the wires so as to be sure that you don't fry the next cdi. it is not necessary to check the frequencies and etc with a fancy meter, just the resistances with a regular meter. just a good quick check.","I never said I wasn't accountable for my actions you idiot. + +All I was looking for is an intelligent answer, on a nice relaxing Sunday afternoon. But, it's apparent that your parents grounded you for not picking up your underwear off the floor. So, all you can do is reply with a non-intelligent answer, because you have no knowledge of the subject, and can't go out to play with the one friend that you do have...possibly. + +I swore years ago that I wouldn't frequent forums that would make me engage in a negative manner. Please, for the love of all that is holy, can someone reply with an intelligent answer to help me not feel this way about this forum. + +BTW, while unloading at the dock yesterday, we ran into two other people that had the same thing happened, so it's not as rare as one might think. + +Have a wonderful Sunday." +"I have an S200TXRV '97 model year that hasn't been used for a year or more. I got it running after cleaning the fuel system and rebuilding the carburetors. + +It was running fine for fifteen minutes or so at idle, 700 rpms +/-, using a hose and muff's for cooling water. The engine just stopped on it own and I saw smoke coming from the CDI, or ignition pack and smelled that electrical plastic burning smell. The engine wasn't overheated it was only about 150 degrees on the heads. + +I removed the cover and there is small hole burned through it near the center. What might be some of the causes of this. It is obviously the original CDI, so my first suspicion is old age. + +Given the cost of a new unit at more than $1,000.00 I am reluctant to just put another one on and try starting it. I will greatly appreciate your advice.","vroomZoom, Good point; I will look into it. I have just a rudimentary grasp of electronic principles so I want to be cautious in my approach. When the motor stopped, I tried to restart it several times before I turned the key off. It then follows that something supplied power to the CDI to let it get hot enough to burn a small whole through the housing, no? The energy had to come from the battery and not the pulser or charge coils to make that much heat for that long. What could cause an internal short in the CDI? + +I tried to insert a photo, it uploaded but I don't see it here or know where it went.","vroomZoom, Good point; I will look into it. I have just a rudimentary grasp of electronic principles so I want to be cautious in my approach. When the motor stopped, I tried to restart it several times before I turned the key off. It then follows that something supplied power to the CDI to let it get hot enough to burn a small whole through the housing, no? The energy had to come from the battery and not the pulser or charge coils to make that much heat for that long. What could cause an internal short in the CDI? + +I tried to insert a photo, it uploaded but I don't see it here or know where it went.","its your choice - if you don't need the storage, then make the deck solid and keep on boating!!" +"hi all, i have a customer who has a blown powerhead on his 25hp yamaha and he would like to put a larger motor on the back. is there a larger HP powerhead that will fit in the 25P case & have the lower end hold up? he was talking about going to 50HP, i told him that big of a jump would require a whole new unit. im correct in that auuumption, right? + +next question, what can i get away with if we change out the whole unit? do i need new controls ? if i do not stay with Yamaha, will any make o/d mount up to the exiting power tilt, wiring and controls? +as always, thanks for the help, these forums are a lifesaver","He,s more than likely right if you study the drawings you will see that the oil pan gasket , the drive shart fit also some 30hp ,40 ,50 hp i just glimps over and never studyied it to detail . who knows unless you try.","He,s more than likely right if you study the drawings you will see that the oil pan gasket , the drive shart fit also some 30hp ,40 ,50 hp i just glimps over and never studyied it to detail . who knows unless you try.",Post a picture of the brushes installed in the holder. +"I have a 98 C60 with a Teleflex trim gage. +It worked correctly till a few months ago. + +Now it works ok at idle, but when the motor speeds up the gage goes up, all the way to full trim. + +Its like higher voltage raises the trim reading. + +Anyone have any ideas?",You've got a bug somewhere between the engine side trim signal and helm. Grab a multimeter and begin volt drop testing the circuit.,You've got a bug somewhere between the engine side trim signal and helm. Grab a multimeter and begin volt drop testing the circuit.,"Ayuh,..... Replace 'em both as a set,...... + +In yer picture, the spiral coil around the center strand isn't spaced evenly, which means it's junk,..... +Wider by the nut, closer near the tag end,..... + +The cog gears in the helm run on those spirals, as gear teeth,..... they have to be perfectly even spacin',....." +"My 2001 Yam 150 model Z150TXRZ will not transfer oil to the engine. NOTE the emergency sw works so my pump is OK. The dash instrument shows the center indicator (yellow) saying there isn't enough oil in the tank. The tank is full and I have tested the sensor and also tried a new one. I have also disconnected the tank harness at the engine and jumper the two wires involved, the blk with red stripe and the solid blk. According to the shop manual this is all controlled by the Engine Control Module, ECM. The sender in the boat tank is looking to complete a circuit to ground which would turn off the yellow low oil light and be prepared to pump oil if the engine tank called for it. I'm suspecting the ECM (a mere $2000, but can find used on Ebay for 250 & up). I'd appreciate any advice or help with this. +Bob Gale",Sounds like the signal is not making able to pass on to oil sensor so use service manual instructions for testing ECM.,Sounds like the signal is not making able to pass on to oil sensor so use service manual instructions for testing ECM.,i have a 2011 merc 60 hp bigfoot efi....when the motor was brand new it got contaminated with bad fuel from a built in tank....after replacing and cleaning system and going to new external tanks the last problem was the same as yours...the surge is so slight that it is not noticeable to a passenger in the boat..and goes away at 12 or 1300 rpm...i thought the problem may go away if i run cleaner etc in the gas..it didnt and i am living with it and will continue to do so...it is so slight that i am not worried about it...the motor idles good and the surge is not there at 1100 rpm in neutral if i ease it to that point...all other speed it runs perfect...curious to know what you find...mine is not covered on warranty as the dealer knows and recorded my screwup on bad gas..and its too expensive to start throwing parts in it to try to fix.. +"My 2001 Yam 150 model Z150TXRZ will not transfer oil to the engine. NOTE the emergency sw works so my pump is OK. The dash instrument shows the center indicator (yellow) saying there isn't enough oil in the tank. The tank is full and I have tested the sensor and also tried a new one. I have also disconnected the tank harness at the engine and jumper the two wires involved, the blk with red stripe and the solid blk. According to the shop manual this is all controlled by the Engine Control Module, ECM. The sender in the boat tank is looking to complete a circuit to ground which would turn off the yellow low oil light and be prepared to pump oil if the engine tank called for it. I'm suspecting the ECM (a mere $2000, but can find used on Ebay for 250 & up). I'd appreciate any advice or help with this. +Bob Gale","Yellow means the boat mounted oil tank is low. If there is oil in the remote tank the engine thinks it is low. In which case it won't automatically transfer oil. The same reference that tells the tachometer to illuminate the yellow light is also telling the ECU the oil tank is low. + +Inspect the wire harness from the remote tank to the motor. The connections at both ends. The connectors are known problem areas. Corrosion can cause a lack of connectivity, which fools the motor into think the remote tank is low. + +If you are saying that you jumpered the black wire to the black wire with the red stripe on the engine side connector, have you inspected the wiring from the connector to the ECU (black/red wire) and from the block to the connector (black wire)? + +The ECu is the least likely part to fail.","Yellow means the boat mounted oil tank is low. If there is oil in the remote tank the engine thinks it is low. In which case it won't automatically transfer oil. The same reference that tells the tachometer to illuminate the yellow light is also telling the ECU the oil tank is low. + +Inspect the wire harness from the remote tank to the motor. The connections at both ends. The connectors are known problem areas. Corrosion can cause a lack of connectivity, which fools the motor into think the remote tank is low. + +If you are saying that you jumpered the black wire to the black wire with the red stripe on the engine side connector, have you inspected the wiring from the connector to the ECU (black/red wire) and from the block to the connector (black wire)? + +The ECu is the least likely part to fail.","deepsea21 said: + + + + Why do you say you had to wait 15 mnutes to crank? Are you saying nothing happened when you turned the key for 15 min? Or when you turned the key for the first 15 minutes the engine would turn over but would not fire and start? A + +re you using ethanol-blended fuel that is sold at 99% of gas stations or 100% gasoline? What is the size of your fuel tank? Do you add any type of fuel stabilizer to the gas at fill-ups? + +Click to expand... + + +Tried to crank several times and would not crank. So i fished for 15 min then it cranked. Not sure size of tank. Before i took it out on the water i drained all gas put new gas in. Used blended gas . No additives" +"Hola, + +Does anyone know the resistance range for a throttle position sensor on a 2003 OX66 200hp? I'm getting 50-300 ohms. + +I live on an island in a 3rd world country and do not have access to any mechanics with a computer to do a proper analysis. So far we have replaced the CDI and O2 sensor. The motor still exhibits the tendency to drop rpm after a brief run up. + +Fuel pressure appears to be fine and the injectors are clean. + +Any words of wisdom? + +Cheers, +Mark","The TPS is a three wire potentiometer. Not a two wire variable resistor. + +The TPS provides an output voltage to the CDI. The range is 0.50 volts (plus or minus 0.02 volts) at idle (pink wire to orange wire) to ~ 5.00 volts at WOT. + +The output voltage is based on the input voltage. Input voltage is 4.75 ~ 5.25 volts.","The TPS is a three wire potentiometer. Not a two wire variable resistor. + +The TPS provides an output voltage to the CDI. The range is 0.50 volts (plus or minus 0.02 volts) at idle (pink wire to orange wire) to ~ 5.00 volts at WOT. + +The output voltage is based on the input voltage. Input voltage is 4.75 ~ 5.25 volts.","""Christopher +Glad you finally + +""Christopher +Glad you finally got that engine going. If you don't have one, I highly recommend a 10-micron fuel/water separator filter to prevent/lessen future problems. I use one that has the clear bowl on the bottom so you can see if any water is accumulating. +I have seen those jets plugged so bad they had to use a ultrasonic cleaner to get them cleared. +Good luck and happy boating + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +Gary""" +"Hola, + +Does anyone know the resistance range for a throttle position sensor on a 2003 OX66 200hp? I'm getting 50-300 ohms. + +I live on an island in a 3rd world country and do not have access to any mechanics with a computer to do a proper analysis. So far we have replaced the CDI and O2 sensor. The motor still exhibits the tendency to drop rpm after a brief run up. + +Fuel pressure appears to be fine and the injectors are clean. + +Any words of wisdom? + +Cheers, +Mark","Thank you for the response, most helpful. + +The next question is, does anyone know where to find a complete wiring diagram? My on line search has led to a few dead ends. It needs to be downloadable as packages take about 3 weeks to get to me. + +The motor is a S200 TXRB. + +Headed out to check some voltages now. + +Cheers.","Thank you for the response, most helpful. + +The next question is, does anyone know where to find a complete wiring diagram? My on line search has led to a few dead ends. It needs to be downloadable as packages take about 3 weeks to get to me. + +The motor is a S200 TXRB. + +Headed out to check some voltages now. + +Cheers.","Yamaha US parts books go back to 1984. + +What is it that you are looking for? + +Yamaha does not offer a modification conversion kit." +"I was asked to bring life back to a motor this past month and I am at a road block. Here is the situation. It is a 2001 yamaha sx150trxz 2 stroke EFI salt water series. + I have changed the pumps , plugs running fresh gas through a secondary tank, cleaned the fuel rail , throttle body, and soaked the injectors and cleaned the screens.I have changed the plugs,. + When I go to start her , she wants to fire off and run but it is only for 30-50 seconds and she will die off. I can spray cleaner or gas towards the throttle body and she will try to stay running. I sprayed the cylinder walls with a engine tuner cleaner to free up any stuck rings . + +Is there something I am missing . Any help would be great Thank you Joe","If you start the engine and then bring her up to cruising RPM, does she run fine and continue to run? Is so, and when you bring her back down to idle RPM and she dies, it is your low speed jet that needs to be sonic cleaned or replaced. On my Yami 9.9 I had a similar issue where she ran fine on cruising RPM but died at idle RPM.","If you start the engine and then bring her up to cruising RPM, does she run fine and continue to run? Is so, and when you bring her back down to idle RPM and she dies, it is your low speed jet that needs to be sonic cleaned or replaced. On my Yami 9.9 I had a similar issue where she ran fine on cruising RPM but died at idle RPM.","Yellow means the boat mounted oil tank is low. If there is oil in the remote tank the engine thinks it is low. In which case it won't automatically transfer oil. The same reference that tells the tachometer to illuminate the yellow light is also telling the ECU the oil tank is low. + +Inspect the wire harness from the remote tank to the motor. The connections at both ends. The connectors are known problem areas. Corrosion can cause a lack of connectivity, which fools the motor into think the remote tank is low. + +If you are saying that you jumpered the black wire to the black wire with the red stripe on the engine side connector, have you inspected the wiring from the connector to the ECU (black/red wire) and from the block to the connector (black wire)? + +The ECu is the least likely part to fail." +"Just wondering how much fluid and which kind I should use? I read u should only use yamalube, but my local dealership is closed today and was going to do this. Thanks","I'd first refer to your owners manual. If you don't have one, locate online using model/year. Yamalube isn't required, any brand will do.","I'd first refer to your owners manual. If you don't have one, locate online using model/year. Yamalube isn't required, any brand will do.",A dealer would check the motor for you.-----Start it and test it.------Answer any questions you might have.-----Show you how to start / operate this fine machinery.----Worth money to have that service ! +"Just wondering how much fluid and which kind I should use? I read u should only use yamalube, but my local dealership is closed today and was going to do this. Thanks",Use marine 80w 90 lube for the lower unit. Pump it in from the bottom screw until it comes out the top. That is how much you need.,Use marine 80w 90 lube for the lower unit. Pump it in from the bottom screw until it comes out the top. That is how much you need.,"Thanks for the replies. I don't know how to post a photo here, but in the parts schematic in your link they are located under the part marked #27. Two small brass jets about 3/16 diameter. On the intake ace of the carburetor in the bottom schematic an opening is shown above the two butterfly valves, The fuel is comes out of those two places. + +With that said, I have given a thorough cleaning to all three carbs and installed three re-build kits. I have further determined that the needle valve(s) are not seating. I have switched valves with the other two carbs, bought two more new ones, tried the old, original failed ones, too. I cleaned and polished the seats as well, all to no avail. The seats are brass but I have not seen them listed for sale anywhere, nor do they look to be readily removable. Float heights are set to the 0.063"" +/- 0.02"" as specified in my Seloc manual. and the online Yamaha Service manual. + +The aluminum carburetor body looks good on all three, so I am skeptical of an internal crack or corrosion. I am at the point of looking for a used, rebuild-able carburetor which can be a challenge. New ones are over $500.00. + +Once again, thanks for the help guys." +"Morning, + +I got a 18’ Polar Flats Boat with what looks like anaftermarket Yamaha 115 on it, the shop thinks about a 2003. Took it by a shop, they checked it and ran it on the river. Holds compression,purrs, pees, the consensus from the shop was it ran great and takes off like ashot. He changed the plugs and foot oil, Awesome! + +The question I had was, when it was handed down to me, thecomment was made to use 1qt to 6 gallons of fuel, which seems ridiculous tome. That’s what 25:1? The shop (and everything I researched) istelling me to use 50:1… + +Why would they be using twice the amount of oil? Additionally, what is the impact to the engineif I go to 50:1? + +This is my first boat with a large outboard, so of course Idon’t want to break it…😊 +Thanks!","Any pictures of this "" aftermarket "" Yamaha motor ?----Model # of it-----Your location ?----Any other identification on the motor ?----Enduro model ?","Any pictures of this "" aftermarket "" Yamaha motor ?----Model # of it-----Your location ?----Any other identification on the motor ?----Enduro model ?","I added a couple cans of Seafoam before the VST was done. I probably can add more Seafoam as the tank has about 30 gals in it and I added 2 cans of Seafoam. I’ll check the seafoam instructions- maybe it can take some more? I ran it on a 2k rpm idle for a few hours yesterday - trying to get the Seafoam into it, but didn’t take it out on the lake due to the wind and my inability to dock it by myself - since I’m a newbie. + +I’ll check with the marina- maybe they have a separate tank I can borrow. But that will kinda bite as there is no real good place to put it and it would need a long feeder hose. + +Thanks for the help! + + + + + +rejesterd said: + + + + You can try SeaFoam, but I would at least run it off an auxiliary tank with fresh fuel for the rest of the season. + +Click to expand..." +"Morning, + +I got a 18’ Polar Flats Boat with what looks like anaftermarket Yamaha 115 on it, the shop thinks about a 2003. Took it by a shop, they checked it and ran it on the river. Holds compression,purrs, pees, the consensus from the shop was it ran great and takes off like ashot. He changed the plugs and foot oil, Awesome! + +The question I had was, when it was handed down to me, thecomment was made to use 1qt to 6 gallons of fuel, which seems ridiculous tome. That’s what 25:1? The shop (and everything I researched) istelling me to use 50:1… + +Why would they be using twice the amount of oil? Additionally, what is the impact to the engineif I go to 50:1? + +This is my first boat with a large outboard, so of course Idon’t want to break it…😊 +Thanks!","It is either an Enduro model or an oil injection model that some fool removed the oil injection system from. + +Enduro models typically run a 50 to one gasoline to oil ratio. Some nervous nellies like to increase the amount of oil, on the basis that they know more than Yamaha does. Lots of folks that have models that run a 100 to one ratio go to 50 to one. So it seems some with a model that runs at 50 to one like to go to 25 to one. I suspect that during they break in they go to 12 to one.","It is either an Enduro model or an oil injection model that some fool removed the oil injection system from. + +Enduro models typically run a 50 to one gasoline to oil ratio. Some nervous nellies like to increase the amount of oil, on the basis that they know more than Yamaha does. Lots of folks that have models that run a 100 to one ratio go to 50 to one. So it seems some with a model that runs at 50 to one like to go to 25 to one. I suspect that during they break in they go to 12 to one.","please image of fiberglass coving aluimin + +I'm now thinking of packing under DP w floation + + +Sinces it is already very sturdie curious if I can get away using I JB cold weld glue to smooth over inbetween plate and tube and probablley glue where I bend over the triangles? + +I should have mensioned that I'm installing the natic planner plates so hoppefulley I will get to run WOT at over 53Knt.s +　 +currentely she's a tad unstable at high speed." +"Morning, + +I got a 18’ Polar Flats Boat with what looks like anaftermarket Yamaha 115 on it, the shop thinks about a 2003. Took it by a shop, they checked it and ran it on the river. Holds compression,purrs, pees, the consensus from the shop was it ran great and takes off like ashot. He changed the plugs and foot oil, Awesome! + +The question I had was, when it was handed down to me, thecomment was made to use 1qt to 6 gallons of fuel, which seems ridiculous tome. That’s what 25:1? The shop (and everything I researched) istelling me to use 50:1… + +Why would they be using twice the amount of oil? Additionally, what is the impact to the engineif I go to 50:1? + +This is my first boat with a large outboard, so of course Idon’t want to break it…😊 +Thanks!","I don't seem to be able to upload pictures. Took a few that were about 5-6mb, then reduced them to 1.5mb...still won't upload...:-/. I'm not sure why, but the forum does not appear to want to let me load pictures... + +Yamaha V4 115 +It says Engine Family 1YMXM1.731CA +Yamaha Motor Co.,LTD. 6N6-2179X-03","I don't seem to be able to upload pictures. Took a few that were about 5-6mb, then reduced them to 1.5mb...still won't upload...:-/. I'm not sure why, but the forum does not appear to want to let me load pictures... + +Yamaha V4 115 +It says Engine Family 1YMXM1.731CA +Yamaha Motor Co.,LTD. 6N6-2179X-03","Hi and thanks again for your suggestions. The boat is stored out of water on a trailer. When it gets to 2000 rpm under load it starts to run rough. It is a carby model there are 6 of them. I will probably get to the boat this week or early next week and will have a look at the fuel pumps. The timing is something I had not thought of, so thanks again." +"Morning, + +I got a 18’ Polar Flats Boat with what looks like anaftermarket Yamaha 115 on it, the shop thinks about a 2003. Took it by a shop, they checked it and ran it on the river. Holds compression,purrs, pees, the consensus from the shop was it ran great and takes off like ashot. He changed the plugs and foot oil, Awesome! + +The question I had was, when it was handed down to me, thecomment was made to use 1qt to 6 gallons of fuel, which seems ridiculous tome. That’s what 25:1? The shop (and everything I researched) istelling me to use 50:1… + +Why would they be using twice the amount of oil? Additionally, what is the impact to the engineif I go to 50:1? + +This is my first boat with a large outboard, so of course Idon’t want to break it…😊 +Thanks!","On the left hand side of the motor on the clamp bracket there should be a data plate. The engine ID begins with the number 6. In your case more than likely 6E5L and then some numbers. What are those numbers please? Or, look at the CDI for some numbers and letters. What are they? I suspect 6E5 but you need to confirm this please. + +Is their an oil tank mounted on the motor? Does it look like the oil tank has been removed?","On the left hand side of the motor on the clamp bracket there should be a data plate. The engine ID begins with the number 6. In your case more than likely 6E5L and then some numbers. What are those numbers please? Or, look at the CDI for some numbers and letters. What are they? I suspect 6E5 but you need to confirm this please. + +Is their an oil tank mounted on the motor? Does it look like the oil tank has been removed?",I was always told the higher RPM's was more of a timing (advance) issue +"Morning, + +I got a 18’ Polar Flats Boat with what looks like anaftermarket Yamaha 115 on it, the shop thinks about a 2003. Took it by a shop, they checked it and ran it on the river. Holds compression,purrs, pees, the consensus from the shop was it ran great and takes off like ashot. He changed the plugs and foot oil, Awesome! + +The question I had was, when it was handed down to me, thecomment was made to use 1qt to 6 gallons of fuel, which seems ridiculous tome. That’s what 25:1? The shop (and everything I researched) istelling me to use 50:1… + +Why would they be using twice the amount of oil? Additionally, what is the impact to the engineif I go to 50:1? + +This is my first boat with a large outboard, so of course Idon’t want to break it…😊 +Thanks!","So the plate/sticker with ANY of that information is scratched off...gives me a warm fuzzy feeling. But what can I say...got it from my uncles estate allot cheaper than the family was gonna sell it for... + +All i can tell is that the cowling says V4 115 +I do not see anything mounted on the engine, is there anywhere inside the cowling that might have any information? + +Is there something about the site that prevents me from posting images? I've tried uploading some, it goes through the motions, but then never shows the images. I can send them directly if anyone is willing to provide me a Gmail address or anything? + +Thanks again for the info...","So the plate/sticker with ANY of that information is scratched off...gives me a warm fuzzy feeling. But what can I say...got it from my uncles estate allot cheaper than the family was gonna sell it for... + +All i can tell is that the cowling says V4 115 +I do not see anything mounted on the engine, is there anywhere inside the cowling that might have any information? + +Is there something about the site that prevents me from posting images? I've tried uploading some, it goes through the motions, but then never shows the images. I can send them directly if anyone is willing to provide me a Gmail address or anything? + +Thanks again for the info...","I wound up with a smaller trailer closer to home and fixed it up, then ran into the non-title nightmare NC is famous for." +"Morning, + +I got a 18’ Polar Flats Boat with what looks like anaftermarket Yamaha 115 on it, the shop thinks about a 2003. Took it by a shop, they checked it and ran it on the river. Holds compression,purrs, pees, the consensus from the shop was it ran great and takes off like ashot. He changed the plugs and foot oil, Awesome! + +The question I had was, when it was handed down to me, thecomment was made to use 1qt to 6 gallons of fuel, which seems ridiculous tome. That’s what 25:1? The shop (and everything I researched) istelling me to use 50:1… + +Why would they be using twice the amount of oil? Additionally, what is the impact to the engineif I go to 50:1? + +This is my first boat with a large outboard, so of course Idon’t want to break it…😊 +Thanks!","Failing that, I can bring it physically into another boat shop, just hoping I could get more info...","Failing that, I can bring it physically into another boat shop, just hoping I could get more info...","From reading various threads, looks like that HPDI V6 is quite a great motor. Wonder what one in good shape would cost?" +"Morning, + +I got a 18’ Polar Flats Boat with what looks like anaftermarket Yamaha 115 on it, the shop thinks about a 2003. Took it by a shop, they checked it and ran it on the river. Holds compression,purrs, pees, the consensus from the shop was it ran great and takes off like ashot. He changed the plugs and foot oil, Awesome! + +The question I had was, when it was handed down to me, thecomment was made to use 1qt to 6 gallons of fuel, which seems ridiculous tome. That’s what 25:1? The shop (and everything I researched) istelling me to use 50:1… + +Why would they be using twice the amount of oil? Additionally, what is the impact to the engineif I go to 50:1? + +This is my first boat with a large outboard, so of course Idon’t want to break it…😊 +Thanks!","Actually, looking around at pictures, the sticker scheme looks like this one in the website below. So I wondered if it might be. I'll definitely have to take this in and ask a guy who's been working on them for awhile. + +https://www.obparts.com/used-outboard-motors/2004-yamaha-115-hp-v4-2-stroke-20-outboard-motor/","Actually, looking around at pictures, the sticker scheme looks like this one in the website below. So I wondered if it might be. I'll definitely have to take this in and ask a guy who's been working on them for awhile. + +https://www.obparts.com/used-outboard-motors/2004-yamaha-115-hp-v4-2-stroke-20-outboard-motor/","o2batsea said: + + + + What Rick shows is overly complex. The new way is to build the system with ACR and delete the battery switches. +Both engines start and run on the ""start bank"" but will charge up the ""House bank"" while running. The ACR ensures that the start bank gets charged up by bleeding off excess charge amps to it from the house bank. In emergency, like if the start bank poops out for any reason, your ACR will automatically parallel the house batteries so that you will be able to start the engines. +The 1,2,BOTH, OFF switches are cheap and dirty solution that manufacturers throw on to solve this charging problem. I don't use them at all. The new way is far better. Does not require you to worry about what position the switches are + +Click to expand... + + +In many cases, twin engine boats that are under 34 feet or so, will use the Stbd side engine batt bank for the house loads. +This is because the house loads are derived from the Stbd engine common interface. In other words, the Stbd engine batt bank (via the hull harness interface) provides house load power. + + +If you want to crank both engines from the Port side batt bank, and yet keep house loads separated from the Stbd engine side, you would need to re-wire the way in which house loads received their power. I fail to see how my schematic creates a more complicated scenario compared to doing all of that! +Now.... if you incorporate the BlueSea 7622 ML 500 Amp ACR, you can make this happen without the need to change anything re; the Stbd side batt bank and house load interface. + +KIS.... keep it simple..... and owner comprehensible." +"I recently bought a boat with a 2005 f150 4 stroke. Water was not coming out of the telltale when I bought it and I figured the impeller needed replacing. Replaced everything for the impeller including the housing and all seals etc. Fired it up and no water. Before putting the lower unit back on, we detached the tubing from the telltale and blew through it to make sure it wasn't clogged. Easily blew air through to the bottom tube where the impeller housing slips onto the tube. Everything was put back in correctly and lined up when assembled. Any ideas? + +Thanks, +Mark","Looking at the flow chart for the Yamaha 9.9 (most other Yamahas similar), the cooling water flows from the intake vents in the lower unit up to the engine. It takes two paths when in the engine. The initial path moves along the engine block/cylinder head to the very back plate. From there part of the cooling water goes to the pee hole so you can see that water is flowing. The other path moves up and over the cylinder head again to the thermostat. From there, the cooling water flows back down the lower unit to exit out the propeller hub. + +If you do not see any water from the pee hole it is possible that the cylinder head flow vents are clogged. + +A flow diagram can be found in the Selco Yamaha Outboards 1984-96 Repair Manual, all engines 2-250 HP, page 5-42. + +Hope this gets you thinking about the flow and where to look for possible blockage(s). + +Brian D +S/V Takara +KF6BL","Looking at the flow chart for the Yamaha 9.9 (most other Yamahas similar), the cooling water flows from the intake vents in the lower unit up to the engine. It takes two paths when in the engine. The initial path moves along the engine block/cylinder head to the very back plate. From there part of the cooling water goes to the pee hole so you can see that water is flowing. The other path moves up and over the cylinder head again to the thermostat. From there, the cooling water flows back down the lower unit to exit out the propeller hub. + +If you do not see any water from the pee hole it is possible that the cylinder head flow vents are clogged. + +A flow diagram can be found in the Selco Yamaha Outboards 1984-96 Repair Manual, all engines 2-250 HP, page 5-42. + +Hope this gets you thinking about the flow and where to look for possible blockage(s). + +Brian D +S/V Takara +KF6BL","19.9 lb-ft is the torque value. Not a lot really. + +The threads seem to strip not from an excessive once or twice overtightening event but rather from over time." +I have a yamaha 25 2 stroke that looks to be from the 80's. Tag says yamaha 25gm. I've looked at some of the I'd sites and don't see anything about it and I can't find anything on Google. Hood has been spray painted white so no help there either. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!,ID tag is located on left side of engine bracket. If it's been removed try looking for ID numbers on left side of engine block.,ID tag is located on left side of engine bracket. If it's been removed try looking for ID numbers on left side of engine block.,Possibly the fuel filter canister on motor is not seated correctly and is sucking air. Always change o ring when changing filter +"Recently bought a Lowe aluminum 16' fishing boat with a 60 HP Yamaha outboard. I think this is too much motor both in power and weight for the boat. Bow rides too high and stern too low even when sitting still in water. I also have a pontoon boat with a 40 HP Mercury and I am thinking of swapping them. Question is: How much changeover problem will I have. The throttle and shift cables are larger diameter on the Mercury and they will have to extend further into the motor than the Yamaha. Are there interfacing parts I can purchase to use with the Yamaha and vice versa? The electrics, I think I can work out but I don't really want to purchase new cables for both. Any advice? What other problems am I overlooking? Thanks.","I reckon before you go spending money and exhausting effort by swapping engines, you should try different ways to distribute weight in the boat of your current setup. Despite the difference of manufacturer and hp between the 40 & 60, I can't imagine the difference in weight between the 2 motors is going to solve the issue (30-60lb?). + +Skiffs like yours are notorious for performing exactly as you've described...especially if the motor is not equipped with power T/T to control bow angle. I'd shift as much weight forward as you can, then re-trial. I'd also verify the motor's AV plate is inline with the bottom of the hull, or at most 1"" above or below. And you should be water testing when the engine is completely tilted down. If bow is still porpoising after shifting weight, drop engine height down on the transom (if it's not already). Also, installing a hydrofoil may help keep the bow down.","I reckon before you go spending money and exhausting effort by swapping engines, you should try different ways to distribute weight in the boat of your current setup. Despite the difference of manufacturer and hp between the 40 & 60, I can't imagine the difference in weight between the 2 motors is going to solve the issue (30-60lb?). + +Skiffs like yours are notorious for performing exactly as you've described...especially if the motor is not equipped with power T/T to control bow angle. I'd shift as much weight forward as you can, then re-trial. I'd also verify the motor's AV plate is inline with the bottom of the hull, or at most 1"" above or below. And you should be water testing when the engine is completely tilted down. If bow is still porpoising after shifting weight, drop engine height down on the transom (if it's not already). Also, installing a hydrofoil may help keep the bow down.",Also - try running a good dose of SEA FOAM in a tank of gas and see if it smooths out. WHenever I have anything running rough before I grab for the wrenches I grab some Sea-Foam at the auto parts store! The stuff is amazing and lots of fuel related problems have a way of just going away after running a tank with a good dose in it. +"Recently bought a Lowe aluminum 16' fishing boat with a 60 HP Yamaha outboard. I think this is too much motor both in power and weight for the boat. Bow rides too high and stern too low even when sitting still in water. I also have a pontoon boat with a 40 HP Mercury and I am thinking of swapping them. Question is: How much changeover problem will I have. The throttle and shift cables are larger diameter on the Mercury and they will have to extend further into the motor than the Yamaha. Are there interfacing parts I can purchase to use with the Yamaha and vice versa? The electrics, I think I can work out but I don't really want to purchase new cables for both. Any advice? What other problems am I overlooking? Thanks.","ClassicAQ, thanks for your help. Exactly the information I needed to stop me from making the mistake. I checked to find place in the front for the two batteries now located just in front of the motor. I will have to construct boxes to mount in the fishing platform but I think I can move them. The AV plate is within 1/2 inch from the bottom of the boat. Before doing anything, I will take it out again to try adjusting trim. It has hyd. trim adjustment but the first time I was having some running issues that have now been corrected. I hope I can find some prefabricated aluminum or plastic battery boxes that will mount flush with the floor with a hinged cover. If not I will try to make some. I think this weight distribution will probably be a good thing to do whatever I find on the next try. Thanks again for your help, I do appreciate it.","ClassicAQ, thanks for your help. Exactly the information I needed to stop me from making the mistake. I checked to find place in the front for the two batteries now located just in front of the motor. I will have to construct boxes to mount in the fishing platform but I think I can move them. The AV plate is within 1/2 inch from the bottom of the boat. Before doing anything, I will take it out again to try adjusting trim. It has hyd. trim adjustment but the first time I was having some running issues that have now been corrected. I hope I can find some prefabricated aluminum or plastic battery boxes that will mount flush with the floor with a hinged cover. If not I will try to make some. I think this weight distribution will probably be a good thing to do whatever I find on the next try. Thanks again for your help, I do appreciate it.",Tried spraying a bit of fuel into the carburetor ?------I have a bunch of these wonderful motors refurbished.------They will all start no problem when done. +"Recently bought a Lowe aluminum 16' fishing boat with a 60 HP Yamaha outboard. I think this is too much motor both in power and weight for the boat. Bow rides too high and stern too low even when sitting still in water. I also have a pontoon boat with a 40 HP Mercury and I am thinking of swapping them. Question is: How much changeover problem will I have. The throttle and shift cables are larger diameter on the Mercury and they will have to extend further into the motor than the Yamaha. Are there interfacing parts I can purchase to use with the Yamaha and vice versa? The electrics, I think I can work out but I don't really want to purchase new cables for both. Any advice? What other problems am I overlooking? Thanks.","No prob. Prior to owning my current bigger boat I had 2 smaller skiffs, a 13ft & 15ft, both v-hull aluminum. Both of those hulls gave me same issues you're dealing with, so I'm familiar with the headache. Though the engine I had on both skiffs did not have power T/T, so dialing in the optimum weight distribution and engine height settings was a major pain. Since you can control bow angle while underway with your engines power T/T, I reckon when you've distributed enough weight forward you'll be running much better. Good luck.","No prob. Prior to owning my current bigger boat I had 2 smaller skiffs, a 13ft & 15ft, both v-hull aluminum. Both of those hulls gave me same issues you're dealing with, so I'm familiar with the headache. Though the engine I had on both skiffs did not have power T/T, so dialing in the optimum weight distribution and engine height settings was a major pain. Since you can control bow angle while underway with your engines power T/T, I reckon when you've distributed enough weight forward you'll be running much better. Good luck.","Does your buzzer work? If the engine is on and you pull the lanyard, does the buzzer sound? + +I had a similar issue with a 2004 Yam 70TLRC 2 stroke. It would start right up, idle fine, but would violently shake and not get on a plane with the throttle down. Checked spark, compression, fuel, cleaned carbs and still had same problem. Turns out it was actually a bad oil sensor. I didn't know it was the oil sensor because my alarm buzzer was also bad, so it never went off. It actually put the engine into a ""guardian"" mode because it thought I was low on oil." +"I have 2004 Yamaha 115TXRC and when trying to cold start it will not crank, I can pull the manual choke on outboard motor and it starts right up, I can here the solenoid click in operation but seem to not be getting the gas","Get a friend to push in key as you look at the fuel enrichment (soleniod). There is ""arm"" the soleniod pulls up when key is pushed in. This arm is held in place to the carb lever by a very small o-ring. The carb lever opens/closes the valves. When key is pushed in, verify the the arm is closing the carb valves. It's possible the o-ring is not in place, thereby allowing the soleniod arm to become detached from carb lever. If parts are where they should be but the soleniod arm isn't fully retracting, volt test the wiring from ignition to soleniod.","Get a friend to push in key as you look at the fuel enrichment (soleniod). There is ""arm"" the soleniod pulls up when key is pushed in. This arm is held in place to the carb lever by a very small o-ring. The carb lever opens/closes the valves. When key is pushed in, verify the the arm is closing the carb valves. It's possible the o-ring is not in place, thereby allowing the soleniod arm to become detached from carb lever. If parts are where they should be but the soleniod arm isn't fully retracting, volt test the wiring from ignition to soleniod.",I will check the 69M info tomorrow (When I can sneak into the garage ) +"I have 2004 Yamaha 115TXRC and when trying to cold start it will not crank, I can pull the manual choke on outboard motor and it starts right up, I can here the solenoid click in operation but seem to not be getting the gas","I had a chance to check the choke today, choke was not engaging only able to get it to work a couple times, removed solenoid and wired straight from battery and it closes every time, put a test on wires coming from switch key and it lights up every time, reinstalled solenoid and barely works if any, put test between wire to solenoid and lights up but solenoid still doesn't engage, dont if im getting full power to solenoid","I had a chance to check the choke today, choke was not engaging only able to get it to work a couple times, removed solenoid and wired straight from battery and it closes every time, put a test on wires coming from switch key and it lights up every time, reinstalled solenoid and barely works if any, put test between wire to solenoid and lights up but solenoid still doesn't engage, dont if im getting full power to solenoid","Apologies, didn't read the 4hp part properly. Hmmm, little hard to see from the parts diagram, can you post a picture?" +"I have 2004 Yamaha 115TXRC and when trying to cold start it will not crank, I can pull the manual choke on outboard motor and it starts right up, I can here the solenoid click in operation but seem to not be getting the gas","Sounds like you're not. If you don't have one, get a multimeter and do volt drop test on the circuit...check both pos/neg for resistance. The ground wire is most often the culprit.","Sounds like you're not. If you don't have one, get a multimeter and do volt drop test on the circuit...check both pos/neg for resistance. The ground wire is most often the culprit.","Does the motor even crank? If you are comfortable, you can try starting the motor by jumping the starter with the key on. It’s possible your ignition switch is crap." +I have twin 250's that recently had their 300 hr service. Shortly after I noticed a fuel smell. This occurs after the boat has been run for a while and I raise them up to flush them. Best that I can tell it is coming out of the exhaust port on the port motor. It lasts for a few minutes and then its gone. The boat is stored in the water. There is no sheen on the water. No sign of any gas anywhere. Motor has been checked out by the same place that has done all maintenance on the motors twice. They thought it was the charcoal canister and replaced it but that did not correct it. The motor runs fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.,Carbed or fuel injection motor?,Carbed or fuel injection motor?,"boscoe said: + + + + Why is it so difficult to simply add a few more letters so that we know exactly what F200 is being discussed? You say you work on cars. If I ask you about fixing a transmission on a Chevrolet Impala is that enough information for you to give me an answer? + +Click to expand... + + +I'm sorry, I looked last night and saw no info on lower unit. The motor is still on boat. Im trying to get the info." +I have twin 250's that recently had their 300 hr service. Shortly after I noticed a fuel smell. This occurs after the boat has been run for a while and I raise them up to flush them. Best that I can tell it is coming out of the exhaust port on the port motor. It lasts for a few minutes and then its gone. The boat is stored in the water. There is no sheen on the water. No sign of any gas anywhere. Motor has been checked out by the same place that has done all maintenance on the motors twice. They thought it was the charcoal canister and replaced it but that did not correct it. The motor runs fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.,Fuel injection,Fuel injection,"Ayuh,.... Do the points close,..?? + +I'd replace the points, 'n try it, they fire the coil,.... + +Points are also an Annual maintenance item,.... regardless the hours run,...." +"I have an 87 115 V4 that randomly will not start. There does not appear to be a pattern or trigger for these events. It may not start right off the trailer or it may die and not restart after several hours of flawless operation. I have determined that there is no spark when the motor acts up. + +I am not a boat mechanic, so all help/pointers would be appreciated.","twilbanks said: + + + + I have determined that there is no spark when the motor acts up. + +Click to expand... + + +Sounds like you solved the issue bud. If what you're asking is what to do next.....do you know if no spark on all four plugs, or just a particular plug? If all four randomly don't spark, I reckon that's an issue with intermittent power supply to plugs. If one particular plug is intermittent, swap plugs and test again. If no spark from same coil, then it's power supply issue. If spark from same coil, then bad plug.","twilbanks said: + + + + I have determined that there is no spark when the motor acts up. + +Click to expand... + + +Sounds like you solved the issue bud. If what you're asking is what to do next.....do you know if no spark on all four plugs, or just a particular plug? If all four randomly don't spark, I reckon that's an issue with intermittent power supply to plugs. If one particular plug is intermittent, swap plugs and test again. If no spark from same coil, then it's power supply issue. If spark from same coil, then bad plug.","Ayuh,....... As rotten as that deck is,..... + +I'm guessin' the transom, 'n stringers are too,....." +fuel coming out prop exhaust not running good replaced plugs rebuilt carbs bottom plug a little wet good compression,Thanks for sharing.,Thanks for sharing.,2 or 4 stroke +fuel coming out prop exhaust not running good replaced plugs rebuilt carbs bottom plug a little wet good compression,"boscoe said: + + + + Thanks for sharing. + +Click to expand... + + +Couldn't have replied any better","boscoe said: + + + + Thanks for sharing. + +Click to expand... + + +Couldn't have replied any better","So, from the few comments, and from further google searches including the Yamaha Web site, it seems that any quality 4-stroke/water cooled OB oil will be acceptable:"" Yamaha recommends Yamalube, of course, but if you simply cannot find it, choose oil that specifically displays the FC-W® rating logo."" + +Sta-Bil fuel additive should be as good as Yamaha's conditioner/stabilizer (and less expensive and easier to find in the store). + +And Yamaha's Ring Free Fuel Additive is okay for 4-stroke engines but is primarily used for 2-stroke engines which have more carbon build-up. So, use it if I like, use it occasionally, or don't really need to use it - maybe option 2 is best 'use it occasionally'. + +The suggestion to install a fuel/water separator is a good idea if the engine does not already have one (especially with E10 fuel) <>. Yamaha says all newer engines are made to run on E10 but *NOT* anything higher!!" +fuel coming out prop exhaust not running good replaced plugs rebuilt carbs bottom plug a little wet good compression,still not running right fuel still coming out exhaust,still not running right fuel still coming out exhaust,What difference is there between a 74 and 76 Merc 7.5 ??----Post some details. +"I have a 1988 Yamaha 40 HP 2 stroke. Would a 2002 40hp 2 stoke lower unit fit? + +Has anyone heard of attaching a 70 HP 2 stroke lower unit to a 40 horse? Is it possible?","Nope to both questions .... + +The only ever 70hp and 40hp that was similar was the 70CES yamaha that is basically a 40/50hp yamaha with a 70HP factory formula 4 racing powerhead. All shortshaft of coarse (15"" shaft)","Nope to both questions .... + +The only ever 70hp and 40hp that was similar was the 70CES yamaha that is basically a 40/50hp yamaha with a 70HP factory formula 4 racing powerhead. All shortshaft of coarse (15"" shaft)","Go to an RV dealer and buy a jug of "" tank fresh "" after you do the bleach treatment to kill any live growth in your system. Instructions are on the tank fresh container, works great, leaves your water system like new." +"I've been working on my dad's 1988 Kingfisher Bass Boat. I believe it's the ski & fish model type, but I'm not too sure of the specifications and neither is he. + +I've been running in to a few problems. + +At first, the engine was idling way too high. I fixed this by reseting the throttle(?) all the way back (It's a blue piece that swivels around the center when pushed in forward). That issue has been resolved with minor tweaking to the engine. + +After fixing this, I decided to take it to the lake and test drive it. To my luck, I put the boat in and the prop will not move. I could turn the wheel to the right and it would just click and forever turn without doing anything. It wouldn't turn left at all. + +After ripping the entire steering assembly out and checking all the pieces, I found the box that sat behind the dash (the one with the gears and cable spool) was rusted and tangled up. It looked in need of oil and new cables (if I had to guess). My dad never serviced or did any maintenance to the boat. He fixed things when it absolutely needed it. So, I need a new steering assembly. (Anywhere I can get a cheap one? I've heard rack and pinion assemblies are best. I have plenty of room behind the dash. I just need something relatively smooth.) + +Also, the throttle arm that sits on the side which I have to click forward and backward to go accordingly, has some slack. After putting it out of neutral and slowly bringing it forward, I noticed there is a good 1-1 1/2 inch it travels before it engages the gear and pulls the control cable(?) forward. I don't know if the throttle is supposed to have this much of a dead-zone or not. If so, I would like to just replace the control cable(?) instead of replacing the whole throttle assembly. + + + +Side note: everything that is underlined with a ""?"" next to it is something I'm not quite sure of. I don't know all of the names for the parts and the specific functions of each. I am used to working on cars and can only assume the function of most of this stuff through trial and error. I'd much rather get the opinion and expertise of people that understand boat hardware better than myself before I go and mess the whole thing up. Feel free to correct my terminology. + + +Thank you all so much for reading all this, +-Grant","Seastar teleflex dominates the outboard motor steering assembly market, but there are others to choose from. I know you can call seastar with your motor info and they'll tell you exact models available. Throttle cable can be adjusted at the engine. I suggest you locate a Yamaha service manual specific to your model/year motor for guidance with adjustment. And I reckon the manual will come in handy as you discover more engine issues, due to the lack of maintenance made to engine throughout the years.","Seastar teleflex dominates the outboard motor steering assembly market, but there are others to choose from. I know you can call seastar with your motor info and they'll tell you exact models available. Throttle cable can be adjusted at the engine. I suggest you locate a Yamaha service manual specific to your model/year motor for guidance with adjustment. And I reckon the manual will come in handy as you discover more engine issues, due to the lack of maintenance made to engine throughout the years.","makomark said: + + + + There's no frequency content on the signals in the plug so there can't be any impedance issue (unless the pins/sockets are corroded). + +Guessing from your first pic, you have a single helm setup - which means the oil pressure sender and the coolant temp sender will be 'off' for a single station use.... + +And it appears you have a decent approach for finding the issue(s) with the tach & hour meter....just remember that each gauge needs TWO GOOD power connections... + +Click to expand... + + +Ok, this is all good information + +I'll R/R the Oil Sender + +Temperature is reading appropriately + +Found right hand dash Voltage diff from Left. So, R/R Starboard Alternator and now reading same voltage as Port, YAY! + +Proved out the Gray wire today, Dash to Module, R/R and Lubed every wire connection I could find. + +Looks like the Tach signal wire (Gray) is independent of the run circuit (Purple) wire. So, I assume the Tach function of Thunderbolt Module is a Secondary function to Ignition. In other words, The Engine shouldn't be Running when the Tach reads zero but, it is running rather well?!! Pretty Crazy, Huh?!! LOL!!! +I'll try another Thunderbolt module" +"I've been working on my dad's 1988 Kingfisher Bass Boat. I believe it's the ski & fish model type, but I'm not too sure of the specifications and neither is he. + +I've been running in to a few problems. + +At first, the engine was idling way too high. I fixed this by reseting the throttle(?) all the way back (It's a blue piece that swivels around the center when pushed in forward). That issue has been resolved with minor tweaking to the engine. + +After fixing this, I decided to take it to the lake and test drive it. To my luck, I put the boat in and the prop will not move. I could turn the wheel to the right and it would just click and forever turn without doing anything. It wouldn't turn left at all. + +After ripping the entire steering assembly out and checking all the pieces, I found the box that sat behind the dash (the one with the gears and cable spool) was rusted and tangled up. It looked in need of oil and new cables (if I had to guess). My dad never serviced or did any maintenance to the boat. He fixed things when it absolutely needed it. So, I need a new steering assembly. (Anywhere I can get a cheap one? I've heard rack and pinion assemblies are best. I have plenty of room behind the dash. I just need something relatively smooth.) + +Also, the throttle arm that sits on the side which I have to click forward and backward to go accordingly, has some slack. After putting it out of neutral and slowly bringing it forward, I noticed there is a good 1-1 1/2 inch it travels before it engages the gear and pulls the control cable(?) forward. I don't know if the throttle is supposed to have this much of a dead-zone or not. If so, I would like to just replace the control cable(?) instead of replacing the whole throttle assembly. + + + +Side note: everything that is underlined with a ""?"" next to it is something I'm not quite sure of. I don't know all of the names for the parts and the specific functions of each. I am used to working on cars and can only assume the function of most of this stuff through trial and error. I'd much rather get the opinion and expertise of people that understand boat hardware better than myself before I go and mess the whole thing up. Feel free to correct my terminology. + + +Thank you all so much for reading all this, +-Grant","Found this service manual online. Looks to be for an '88 90ETG and should be accurate for your motor. Good luck. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...shop-manuals/675-1988-yamaha-70etg-90etg/file","Found this service manual online. Looks to be for an '88 90ETG and should be accurate for your motor. Good luck. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...shop-manuals/675-1988-yamaha-70etg-90etg/file",You should have done your research before open it up. With that said the relay is a very simple device. It's just a coil and a few contacts. If it clicks that means it receives the input signal. If there is no power coming out then there could be 2 things. The first would be to check your main power feed. If the power feed is there at the relay then the contacts inside the relay are dirty. You should have 2 5-prongs relays. One is for trim down and one for trim up. They both work together. The reason for the 5 prongs relay is that there is only one trim motor with 2 wires (example A and B). To go up A is + and B is -. To go down A is - and B is +. Each relay will have one output and that output feeds one wire of the trim motor. These output will rest at - all the time. When you trim up it will activate only one relay and that relay will switch the output from - to +. This will complete the circuit and will activate the motor. Same thing with trim down. The other relay will get activated instead. GL +"Hello I am here on behalf of my brother. He is not real good with posting questions in the forums and such, so I am posting this for him in the hopes I may help. He has a 1998 yamaha 40 hp outboard motor and has been having some problems. The motor starts fine and idles terrific, once the boat gets going and he accelerates to full speed he is good for about 2 mins and then the motor begind to slow down gradually untill it is almost stopped moving. The only thing that works is to shut the engine off and then start it up again and do it all over. Any ideas guys or advice would be great. I can get more specifics on the engine if needed. Thanks in advance + +shaughnny","after the motor slows down and you turn the motor off, how long do you have to wait until you can run at full power again?","after the motor slows down and you turn the motor off, how long do you have to wait until you can run at full power again?","Clogged jets will not stop it from starting. Clogged jets will usually cause a rough or no idle condition. + +Assuming your choke solenoid is working, Pull the carb cover off and try to start the engine when cold. Make sure the choke is closing all the way. The rubber gasket between the carb cover and the carb body will swell up over time and interfere with the choke butterfly not allowing it to close completely. + + +If all looks good with the choke, Do a compression test and a leak down test." +"Hello I am here on behalf of my brother. He is not real good with posting questions in the forums and such, so I am posting this for him in the hopes I may help. He has a 1998 yamaha 40 hp outboard motor and has been having some problems. The motor starts fine and idles terrific, once the boat gets going and he accelerates to full speed he is good for about 2 mins and then the motor begind to slow down gradually untill it is almost stopped moving. The only thing that works is to shut the engine off and then start it up again and do it all over. Any ideas guys or advice would be great. I can get more specifics on the engine if needed. Thanks in advance + +shaughnny","Hello and thanks for your time coueytwo. My brother said as soon as it slows down, he shuts it off. waits maybe a few seconds and starts it up again and has full power like it would normally until it begins to slow down again.thanks for your help, +shaughnny","Hello and thanks for your time coueytwo. My brother said as soon as it slows down, he shuts it off. waits maybe a few seconds and starts it up again and has full power like it would normally until it begins to slow down again.thanks for your help, +shaughnny",OK thanks +"Hello I am here on behalf of my brother. He is not real good with posting questions in the forums and such, so I am posting this for him in the hopes I may help. He has a 1998 yamaha 40 hp outboard motor and has been having some problems. The motor starts fine and idles terrific, once the boat gets going and he accelerates to full speed he is good for about 2 mins and then the motor begind to slow down gradually untill it is almost stopped moving. The only thing that works is to shut the engine off and then start it up again and do it all over. Any ideas guys or advice would be great. I can get more specifics on the engine if needed. Thanks in advance + +shaughnny","have someone pump the fuel bulb, when the motor starts slowing down, if this fixes it, the fuel pump is bad. what happens if he slows down, does the motor run right then?","have someone pump the fuel bulb, when the motor starts slowing down, if this fixes it, the fuel pump is bad. what happens if he slows down, does the motor run right then?",You would have to check with the MFD provider to see if VTS is available. +"Hello I am here on behalf of my brother. He is not real good with posting questions in the forums and such, so I am posting this for him in the hopes I may help. He has a 1998 yamaha 40 hp outboard motor and has been having some problems. The motor starts fine and idles terrific, once the boat gets going and he accelerates to full speed he is good for about 2 mins and then the motor begind to slow down gradually untill it is almost stopped moving. The only thing that works is to shut the engine off and then start it up again and do it all over. Any ideas guys or advice would be great. I can get more specifics on the engine if needed. Thanks in advance + +shaughnny","Hello again, + + I just spoke with my brother and relayed to him what you had said. He said he has tried pumping the bulb and it has not helped. Also he clarified for me that when he is at full throttle and the engine begins to slow down, if he backs the throttle to about a quarter at this point the power kicks back in and he can accelerate back to full speed until it slows again. He also said that when the throttle is reduced and the linkage triggers the switch box or cdi that it has power again. Apparently he had his carbs checked at a marine repair shop and all is well there. He said that when the motor starts to slow down, if he just keeps the throttle at wide open that eventually it will slow down to a crawl and stall out. If there is anything else I can try or suggest to him, please let me know.thanks +shaughnnhy","Hello again, + + I just spoke with my brother and relayed to him what you had said. He said he has tried pumping the bulb and it has not helped. Also he clarified for me that when he is at full throttle and the engine begins to slow down, if he backs the throttle to about a quarter at this point the power kicks back in and he can accelerate back to full speed until it slows again. He also said that when the throttle is reduced and the linkage triggers the switch box or cdi that it has power again. Apparently he had his carbs checked at a marine repair shop and all is well there. He said that when the motor starts to slow down, if he just keeps the throttle at wide open that eventually it will slow down to a crawl and stall out. If there is anything else I can try or suggest to him, please let me know.thanks +shaughnnhy","You can buy a ""Grayscale display"" fish finder without GPS, the price is less than 100USD :http://www.boatfishfinder.com/tag/grayscale-display/" +"Hello I am here on behalf of my brother. He is not real good with posting questions in the forums and such, so I am posting this for him in the hopes I may help. He has a 1998 yamaha 40 hp outboard motor and has been having some problems. The motor starts fine and idles terrific, once the boat gets going and he accelerates to full speed he is good for about 2 mins and then the motor begind to slow down gradually untill it is almost stopped moving. The only thing that works is to shut the engine off and then start it up again and do it all over. Any ideas guys or advice would be great. I can get more specifics on the engine if needed. Thanks in advance + +shaughnny","Check and clean all your wiring connections.After this is done,check the fuel lines for possible cracks or loose fittings.Good luck.","Check and clean all your wiring connections.After this is done,check the fuel lines for possible cracks or loose fittings.Good luck.","Water-cooled marine unit (or two) depending upon how much volume you want to condition...make sure you have a generator that will provide the surge capacity to start the compressors, too..." +"Hello I am here on behalf of my brother. He is not real good with posting questions in the forums and such, so I am posting this for him in the hopes I may help. He has a 1998 yamaha 40 hp outboard motor and has been having some problems. The motor starts fine and idles terrific, once the boat gets going and he accelerates to full speed he is good for about 2 mins and then the motor begind to slow down gradually untill it is almost stopped moving. The only thing that works is to shut the engine off and then start it up again and do it all over. Any ideas guys or advice would be great. I can get more specifics on the engine if needed. Thanks in advance + +shaughnny","I know this thread is old, but I try anyway. I am having the exact same problem om my 1999 40VEO autolube. After running on high throttle for some time, the engine starts loosing power gradually. If I reduce throttle a bit, it kicks back in. Did you ever figure out what was wrong? I have checked the carburators, the stator looks like brand new, and I have changed the coils.","I know this thread is old, but I try anyway. I am having the exact same problem om my 1999 40VEO autolube. After running on high throttle for some time, the engine starts loosing power gradually. If I reduce throttle a bit, it kicks back in. Did you ever figure out what was wrong? I have checked the carburators, the stator looks like brand new, and I have changed the coils.","I think you're getting ahead of yourself. + +The HP decision is determined by use. + +I'm the inventor that put my CC 33' Sports Sedan on a tandem axle trailer and pull it with the Semi Pintle on my Dodge Cummins 2500...wide, tall and long. What are you using your boat for? + +I plan to install twin Ford 4CYL hybrid motors from auto and use a marine exhaust manifold to ""marine"" the exhaust. Lots lighter and allows for many deep cell batteries low in the hull to keep my Chris Craft vertical - and on top. Why you ask...because I want to fish the mouth of the Columbia for Salmon and the thought of trolling without an engine running is fantastic. It doesn't take twin screws many revolutions - or horsepower - to keep it navigating true. Up and down river. + +So: Figure out if you have a nitch like me, or you want a direct replacement for the weight and horsepower in your boat today. + +Good luck - I will post again when I finish ""Fortune Cookie"" and provide photos." +"New to the site and need a little help. I've got a Stratos 275 PRO XL with a Yamaha VMAX 150 2 stroke. Had an overheating alarm at full throttle, outboard tail tell was discharging ok. Replaced water pump, thermostats and pressure relief valve. Still overheating alarm. Right power head hot, pulled head and water cover plate, replaced both gaskets. Also did compression test, lowest cylinder was 109 highest cylinder was 114. With motor in a tank, water pump is excellent, have water at both t-stats. Launched to put motor under load, overheated again at full throttle. Noticed steam coming out of exhaust ports. Thinking next step is to pull exhaust manifold. Inner exhaust cover was replaced about 100 hrs ago about a year ago which had minor pitting allowing water to enter dry exhaust side. Anyone else had a similar issue? Thanks. +VMAX 150","Are you getting high temp alarm only @ WOT?...does alarm remain on when you back off throttle? When you pulled heads off, what was the condition of the water passages? If there was corrosion, it's possible corrosion has also built up behind block. A little steam from exhaust isn't too concerning, especially from a 2 stroke. I'd also test the temp alarm to be certain the alarm is not a false positive. When troubleshooting a possible high temp issue, unfortunately the water exiting the T/T is only indicative of a functtional water pump...it's not indicative however the pump is able to circulate water throughout the cooling passages. And as you've discovered, testing engine for high temp alarm when not under load is futile. I'd start first with confirming the alarm is indeed being grounded by high temp, then perhaps flush with salt-x or likewise product to try to break up any corrosion.","Are you getting high temp alarm only @ WOT?...does alarm remain on when you back off throttle? When you pulled heads off, what was the condition of the water passages? If there was corrosion, it's possible corrosion has also built up behind block. A little steam from exhaust isn't too concerning, especially from a 2 stroke. I'd also test the temp alarm to be certain the alarm is not a false positive. When troubleshooting a possible high temp issue, unfortunately the water exiting the T/T is only indicative of a functtional water pump...it's not indicative however the pump is able to circulate water throughout the cooling passages. And as you've discovered, testing engine for high temp alarm when not under load is futile. I'd start first with confirming the alarm is indeed being grounded by high temp, then perhaps flush with salt-x or likewise product to try to break up any corrosion.", +"New to the site and need a little help. I've got a Stratos 275 PRO XL with a Yamaha VMAX 150 2 stroke. Had an overheating alarm at full throttle, outboard tail tell was discharging ok. Replaced water pump, thermostats and pressure relief valve. Still overheating alarm. Right power head hot, pulled head and water cover plate, replaced both gaskets. Also did compression test, lowest cylinder was 109 highest cylinder was 114. With motor in a tank, water pump is excellent, have water at both t-stats. Launched to put motor under load, overheated again at full throttle. Noticed steam coming out of exhaust ports. Thinking next step is to pull exhaust manifold. Inner exhaust cover was replaced about 100 hrs ago about a year ago which had minor pitting allowing water to enter dry exhaust side. Anyone else had a similar issue? Thanks. +VMAX 150","ClassicAQ, +Thanks for the reply. High temp alarm is basically anything over 4k I've discovered. Once the alarm sounds and I throttle back to neutral and leaving the engine running the alarm will silence in about 30 seconds or so. Pulled both heads yesterday, a lot of scale around the water passages. I cleaned the passages around the pistons as well as the heads and water cover plates. I'm also replacing the primer bulb and hose assembly as it's 14 yrs old and I know an overheat can also be from running lean. Will test temp switches today.","ClassicAQ, +Thanks for the reply. High temp alarm is basically anything over 4k I've discovered. Once the alarm sounds and I throttle back to neutral and leaving the engine running the alarm will silence in about 30 seconds or so. Pulled both heads yesterday, a lot of scale around the water passages. I cleaned the passages around the pistons as well as the heads and water cover plates. I'm also replacing the primer bulb and hose assembly as it's 14 yrs old and I know an overheat can also be from running lean. Will test temp switches today.","- I disassembled the carb bit did not soak, just sprayed with carb cleaner +- I didn’t check the pressure on the pump, I took it off and inspected it, looked okay but not sure how to check the pressure +- gas is fresh +- when the boat is out of the water and I advance the throttle it runs alright but when I leave it advanced it starts to die a little and the bulb goes flat, I can feel the bulb slowly flatten but when I pump it it gets hard again and runs better +- I have not tried the choke but when it does die (after it’s warm) and I pull the choke out it runs" +"New to the site and need a little help. I've got a Stratos 275 PRO XL with a Yamaha VMAX 150 2 stroke. Had an overheating alarm at full throttle, outboard tail tell was discharging ok. Replaced water pump, thermostats and pressure relief valve. Still overheating alarm. Right power head hot, pulled head and water cover plate, replaced both gaskets. Also did compression test, lowest cylinder was 109 highest cylinder was 114. With motor in a tank, water pump is excellent, have water at both t-stats. Launched to put motor under load, overheated again at full throttle. Noticed steam coming out of exhaust ports. Thinking next step is to pull exhaust manifold. Inner exhaust cover was replaced about 100 hrs ago about a year ago which had minor pitting allowing water to enter dry exhaust side. Anyone else had a similar issue? Thanks. +VMAX 150","Update, used Muriatic acid and cleaned cylinders while heads were off as well as an acid bath for the heads. New gaskets and off to the races. Thanks again for the replies.","Update, used Muriatic acid and cleaned cylinders while heads were off as well as an acid bath for the heads. New gaskets and off to the races. Thanks again for the replies.","I have had exactly the same concerns about my 2007 40 XWT. WOT sees about 16volts on my dash voltmeter, confirmed with an external meter. That really is too much for most electronics and globes etc. I found a service manual so that I could do some checks and was a bit surprised to see that the specs quote the following voltages. Cranking 3.5 Volts, 1500 rpm 13 Volts, 3500 rpm 30 volts. This is out of the rectifier, being the black and red wires. I know lots about 4stroke/car systems and electronics is my profession, but still coming up to speed on 2 strokes and magnetos. These voltages just seem crazy and i am surprised that any electronics survive. The comment about maintenance free batteries is valid, they will be damaged by these voltages compared to ones that you can simply top up with water. I plan to do some more research on this but will appreciate comments and input to enlighten me as to how we get away (and we certainly seem to) with such voltages. It seems very odd to me that the output is not regulated." +"New to the site and need a little help. I've got a Stratos 275 PRO XL with a Yamaha VMAX 150 2 stroke. Had an overheating alarm at full throttle, outboard tail tell was discharging ok. Replaced water pump, thermostats and pressure relief valve. Still overheating alarm. Right power head hot, pulled head and water cover plate, replaced both gaskets. Also did compression test, lowest cylinder was 109 highest cylinder was 114. With motor in a tank, water pump is excellent, have water at both t-stats. Launched to put motor under load, overheated again at full throttle. Noticed steam coming out of exhaust ports. Thinking next step is to pull exhaust manifold. Inner exhaust cover was replaced about 100 hrs ago about a year ago which had minor pitting allowing water to enter dry exhaust side. Anyone else had a similar issue? Thanks. +VMAX 150",Off to the races....you saying after the clean up you're no longer getting high temp alarm?,Off to the races....you saying after the clean up you're no longer getting high temp alarm?,"racerone said: + + + + What often happens is that it snaps into forward ( if taken apart in nuetral ) when you are not looking.-------So take it apart again.--------Control in nuetral.-----Gearcase in nuetral and re-assemle + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks racerone, + +that at sounds doable. How do I know when the gear as is in neutral? (Sorry for the million questions). + +thanks again + +russ" +"Hi +My 40 hp 2011 Yamaha starts and runs great but has a low open throttle rpm during the summer. Each fall and spring the rpm goes up to 4600 rpm at open throttle. All summer the engines runs at 4200 max.","To begine with, be aware that max rpms at WOT of 4200 or 4600 is below your engines spec rpm range at WOT. The high end of this range for your engine is either 5500 or 6000, not sure which one. + +Air density is a contributing factor of combustion engines, the changes of it caused by altitude, humidity, etc. Though a change of 400 rpms sounds dramatic. I'd first address the issue as to why the engine is not able to reach max spec rpms. I believe once you've determined this you won't experience such a dramatic rpm change as seasons change.","To begine with, be aware that max rpms at WOT of 4200 or 4600 is below your engines spec rpm range at WOT. The high end of this range for your engine is either 5500 or 6000, not sure which one. + +Air density is a contributing factor of combustion engines, the changes of it caused by altitude, humidity, etc. Though a change of 400 rpms sounds dramatic. I'd first address the issue as to why the engine is not able to reach max spec rpms. I believe once you've determined this you won't experience such a dramatic rpm change as seasons change.",What kind of a spark tester are you using ?? +"Hello, + +I have a 1995 Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke. I went to put it in reverse this weekend. It was really hard and even broke the plastic end piece on my shift cable. While the engine was off, I disconnected the shift cable from the motor and tried shifting it manually. It will sometimes pop into one gear (either forward or reverse) but will sometimes not got into the other. For instance, I pushed it forward and it engaged into forward, when I tried to pop it back into reverse, it won’t click in and even seems like I’m pushing against a spring at a certain point. If I spin the prop (in neutral), then try to engage it, it will then pop in to the gear that is giving the problem. Ok, so I start the motor in neutral and pop it all the way into either forward or reverse gear. It catches both gears but chatters a bit in either gear. Pretty sure it’s catching and slipping. At this point, the cable is disconnected and the shifter is being fully engaged to the max. My engine engages the shift link with a twisting motion and doesn't seem to have any way to adjust it. It seems like an adjustment issue.... I drained a tiny bit of gear oil from the lower unit and it was clean and clear. Please advise. Thanks.","Refer to your service manuals shift link adjustment section. It will take you step by step. If you don't have one, see link below. Not knowing your model #, the link below is for a '95 40T + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/567-1995-yamaha-40t-50t-40v-50h/file","Refer to your service manuals shift link adjustment section. It will take you step by step. If you don't have one, see link below. Not knowing your model #, the link below is for a '95 40T + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/567-1995-yamaha-40t-50t-40v-50h/file","Just an update, was getting on my nerves so bought a new carb, now runs just fine so there's something amiss in there that I'll have to get to the bottom of, runs fine now, a little smokey but I can live with that....." +"Hi guys. + +Hurricane Irma flipped off and stole the engine cowling from my 2005 F115 engine and i'm struggling to find a used one as i don't want to pay stupid money on a new cowling for a 13 year engine. +Can anyone point me in the direction of one for sale? I'm not worried about perfect condition i just want one that fits and works! + +Regards","Try the inner web. Ebay. + +http://www.411marine.com/parts","Try the inner web. Ebay. + +http://www.411marine.com/parts","The red arrow in the first pic points to what is likely the slave solenoid, for the starter. +the second pic appears to be the ignition amplifier - if u have spark out of the coil, the amplifier is fine. +I'd be a bit concerned about the red/white wire with the bare (disconnected) bullet connector .. mercruiser uses that color for the ignition amp circuit. +Finally, this would have been better served if posted in the mercruiser section." +I recently purchased a 3 cylinder 40hp Yamaha it’s a 1988 and I hear a lot of people talking about changing the jets to get more speed out of it what jet size does anybody recommend,"I've rarely seen this topic...and I've been associated with yamaha outboard forums for over 7 years. With that said, the consensus I've read is that the increase in speed is nominal.","I've rarely seen this topic...and I've been associated with yamaha outboard forums for over 7 years. With that said, the consensus I've read is that the increase in speed is nominal.","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,... Both pictures are bad gelcoat, no paint anywhere,..... + +The spider cracks will probably come back through new gelcoat,... + +Either way, yer lookin' at Alota sandin' to restore it,.... + +Personally, I'd sand it, fair it out, sand it again, 'n paint it with a quality 2-pt. urethane paint,.... + +Click to expand... + + + +Ive been resting my arms for a lot of sanding. I've got a couple buddies and some orbital sanders to start knocking it out soon. That spider wevbjng crack is pretty much all over the hull. So looks like restoring the hull is in order? I don't think I have the capability to do a 2-PT urethane or the $. But I do have a HVLC spray gun and a big compressor. I've been reading a lot about gel coat with Duratec gloss additive to slow the curing time through a spray system. Was thinking of going that route and it's still reasonably priced." +I recently purchased a 3 cylinder 40hp Yamaha it’s a 1988 and I hear a lot of people talking about changing the jets to get more speed out of it what jet size does anybody recommend,The guys around here do all kinds different stuff to these motors change jets put bigger carbs on them they push them to the edge im not wanting to go no kinda crazy speed just a little bit more but I was mainly asking out of curiosity,The guys around here do all kinds different stuff to these motors change jets put bigger carbs on them they push them to the edge im not wanting to go no kinda crazy speed just a little bit more but I was mainly asking out of curiosity,PM sent. +I recently purchased a 3 cylinder 40hp Yamaha it’s a 1988 and I hear a lot of people talking about changing the jets to get more speed out of it what jet size does anybody recommend,"My 1988 40 has 70 HP carbs and a different CDI/power pack. Supposedly that is supposed to push it to 50 something horse. I don't know about that, but it does push my 18 foot Lund about 5 knots faster than an unaltered 40.","My 1988 40 has 70 HP carbs and a different CDI/power pack. Supposedly that is supposed to push it to 50 something horse. I don't know about that, but it does push my 18 foot Lund about 5 knots faster than an unaltered 40.",The pump on your motor is an engine driven mechanical gear drive pump that connects directly to the crankshaft. The oil control part is controlled through The throttle linkage. The way it works is between the oil intake and oil exit is a cam. This cam is graduated so that it mostly covers the exit hole at an idle. As you throttle up more and more of the exit hole to the carbs is uncovered. At full throttle the pump exit is wide open. When you chop the throttle the reverse happens the pump exit gets covered. Since the engine will not throttle down as fast as you can chop the throttle. The pump being connected to the motor by a gear is pumping oil at a higher rate correlating with engine RPM. Since the throttle has been reduced so has the size of the exit hole because it is connected to the throttle linkage. This means for a couple seconds you have excess pressure until the motor gets to a stable rpm. You have 2 return points because if the oil level covers the lower one it can still go to the top one. Easiest way to bleed the pump is turn the bleed screw until oil comes out. Then disconnect the throttle linkage from the pump. Start the motor on a 50-1 pre-mix them manually turn the pump control to the wide open position and watch until the air is out of the 3 lines. Do this while the motor is idling then reconnect the linkage. The variable oil ratio is controlled by a combination of the port size and pump speed. +"I have a yahama 200vz hpdi, alarm wont stop. Temp good oil pressure good. Ecm tested good. Throwing no codes. Stumped. Help!!!",When does the alarm sound?,When does the alarm sound?,"I checked with the guy who sold me the boat. The paint he used was Rustoleum Royal Blue, then clear coat. I guess the Rustoleum product works on anything. What are your thoughts on this? The paint does look good." +"I have a yahama 200vz hpdi, alarm wont stop. Temp good oil pressure good. Ecm tested good. Throwing no codes. Stumped. Help!!!","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + When does the alarm sound? + +Click to expand... + + Constantly - from turn on to off.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + When does the alarm sound? + +Click to expand... + + Constantly - from turn on to off.","stcldjim said: + + + + ha ha yep should have time this weekend will follow instructions... +thanks + +Click to expand... + + +after all that it was the filter. thanks so much boscoe!!!!!!!" +"I have a yahama 200vz hpdi, alarm wont stop. Temp good oil pressure good. Ecm tested good. Throwing no codes. Stumped. Help!!!","Oil pressure good, cyl head temp good. And engine revs up and slows without touching a thing.","Oil pressure good, cyl head temp good. And engine revs up and slows without touching a thing.","that sounds reasonable...you want to make sure the cables 'work' when the engine is turned fully to both stops...of they do, you should be ok..." +"I have a yahama 200vz hpdi, alarm wont stop. Temp good oil pressure good. Ecm tested good. Throwing no codes. Stumped. Help!!!","Alarm is on from, Key on.......What is flashing on your gauge? Possible low oil alarm from remote oil tank or engine oil tank.","Alarm is on from, Key on.......What is flashing on your gauge? Possible low oil alarm from remote oil tank or engine oil tank.","What did your ""carb cleaning"" include?....what did you do" +"I have a yahama 200vz hpdi, alarm wont stop. Temp good oil pressure good. Ecm tested good. Throwing no codes. Stumped. Help!!!","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Alarm is on from, Key on.......What is flashing on your gauge? Possible low oil alarm from remote oil tank or engine oil tank. + +Click to expand... + + + +No gauge flashing. All normal. Oil not low in either tank. Pump was replaced too.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Alarm is on from, Key on.......What is flashing on your gauge? Possible low oil alarm from remote oil tank or engine oil tank. + +Click to expand... + + + +No gauge flashing. All normal. Oil not low in either tank. Pump was replaced too.","Wow, that's surprising, but it certainly sounds like a leak of some kind. + +If your quick connects were faulty, I would think you'd see fuel leaking out somewhere or there'd be a strong smell of gasoline. But it could just be the valve in the bulb is leaking. When you disconnected the hose, I assume you left the quick connector attached to the end of the hose? If so, and the bulb stayed hard while the hose was disconnected, then that would mean the quick connector is fine (because it won't allow fuel to run backwards if it's fully closed). So maybe when it's connected to the engine, the quick connect valve opens, and then fuel starts running backwards through the leaky bulb valve. Maybe try just replacing the bulb/hose assembly?" +"I have a yahama 200vz hpdi, alarm wont stop. Temp good oil pressure good. Ecm tested good. Throwing no codes. Stumped. Help!!!","MissFLA-USA said: + + + + No gauge flashing. All normal. Oil not low in either tank. Pump was replaced too. + +Click to expand... + + +Oil does not have to be low. Float can be bad, wire harness can be bad.....","MissFLA-USA said: + + + + No gauge flashing. All normal. Oil not low in either tank. Pump was replaced too. + +Click to expand... + + +Oil does not have to be low. Float can be bad, wire harness can be bad.....","Bridge yellow and red to one side of a push button switch ,on the other side of the push button switch connect brown if you push the button the starter motor will turn over ,take your finger off the button once it starts .to switch it off you need another push button switch one side connect black on the other side connect white push the button and the motor will stop." +"I have a yahama 200vz hpdi, alarm wont stop. Temp good oil pressure good. Ecm tested good. Throwing no codes. Stumped. Help!!!","MissFLA-USA said: + + + + No gauge flashing. All normal. Oil not low in either tank. Pump was replaced too. + +Click to expand... + + +Do you have a Yamaha multi-function tachometer? Are you saying that all three oil bars are illuminated steady state and that the over temperature bar is not flashing? + +With the key off, inspect the pink wire to the warning buzzer for a connection to ground. There should not be one. The buzzer is grounded to cause it to alarm. If you are not seeing anything amiss on your tachometer then perhaps (a wild guess) the ground wire to the buzzer has been chaffed to a ground source. + +Is this something that just started on a motor that you have been using for a while without any problems?","MissFLA-USA said: + + + + No gauge flashing. All normal. Oil not low in either tank. Pump was replaced too. + +Click to expand... + + +Do you have a Yamaha multi-function tachometer? Are you saying that all three oil bars are illuminated steady state and that the over temperature bar is not flashing? + +With the key off, inspect the pink wire to the warning buzzer for a connection to ground. There should not be one. The buzzer is grounded to cause it to alarm. If you are not seeing anything amiss on your tachometer then perhaps (a wild guess) the ground wire to the buzzer has been chaffed to a ground source. + +Is this something that just started on a motor that you have been using for a while without any problems?","Alarm is on from, Key on.......What is flashing on your gauge? Possible low oil alarm from remote oil tank or engine oil tank." +"My motor is a 1997 model year s200txrv. It sat for over year and the fuel turned bad. I cleaned the tank, lines, filters and such and removed maybe two quarts of water with 40 gallons of fuel I had to repurpose. + + +Fresh fuel, 90 octane recreational gas, no ethanol added to the fuel tank. Motor started and stopped straight away. I tried a few squeezes on the primer bulb and fuel squirted out the air jet intake on the top carburetor. I thought that the floats were hung up and took it off to find it full of an opaque jell like b b size pellets. I removed the other two carburetors and found similar conditions so I rebuilt all three of them. I also cleaned the two fuel pumps. + + +I re-installed the carburetors today and the same thing on the top carburetor occured again. Fuel squirts out of the main jet air intake of the carburetor, the other two are fine. + + +With the carburetor off the motor, I can hold the carburetor upside down to seat the needles and push 20 psi of air from the compressor and no there is no leakage. + + +I am at a lost as to what causes this and would greatly appreciate any ideas to remedy the situation. + + +Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. + + +H, Henry",No ideas?,No ideas?,"boscoe said: + + + + Thanks for sharing. + +Click to expand... + + +Couldn't have replied any better" +"My motor is a 1997 model year s200txrv. It sat for over year and the fuel turned bad. I cleaned the tank, lines, filters and such and removed maybe two quarts of water with 40 gallons of fuel I had to repurpose. + + +Fresh fuel, 90 octane recreational gas, no ethanol added to the fuel tank. Motor started and stopped straight away. I tried a few squeezes on the primer bulb and fuel squirted out the air jet intake on the top carburetor. I thought that the floats were hung up and took it off to find it full of an opaque jell like b b size pellets. I removed the other two carburetors and found similar conditions so I rebuilt all three of them. I also cleaned the two fuel pumps. + + +I re-installed the carburetors today and the same thing on the top carburetor occured again. Fuel squirts out of the main jet air intake of the carburetor, the other two are fine. + + +With the carburetor off the motor, I can hold the carburetor upside down to seat the needles and push 20 psi of air from the compressor and no there is no leakage. + + +I am at a lost as to what causes this and would greatly appreciate any ideas to remedy the situation. + + +Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. + + +H, Henry",I would say there is still junk in the fuel system.---Keep flushing / cleaning until problem goes away.,I would say there is still junk in the fuel system.---Keep flushing / cleaning until problem goes away.,Go to cdielectronics.com for ignition trouble shooting. +"My motor is a 1997 model year s200txrv. It sat for over year and the fuel turned bad. I cleaned the tank, lines, filters and such and removed maybe two quarts of water with 40 gallons of fuel I had to repurpose. + + +Fresh fuel, 90 octane recreational gas, no ethanol added to the fuel tank. Motor started and stopped straight away. I tried a few squeezes on the primer bulb and fuel squirted out the air jet intake on the top carburetor. I thought that the floats were hung up and took it off to find it full of an opaque jell like b b size pellets. I removed the other two carburetors and found similar conditions so I rebuilt all three of them. I also cleaned the two fuel pumps. + + +I re-installed the carburetors today and the same thing on the top carburetor occured again. Fuel squirts out of the main jet air intake of the carburetor, the other two are fine. + + +With the carburetor off the motor, I can hold the carburetor upside down to seat the needles and push 20 psi of air from the compressor and no there is no leakage. + + +I am at a lost as to what causes this and would greatly appreciate any ideas to remedy the situation. + + +Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. + + +H, Henry","Take a look at the parts blow out using the link below. Identify the jet you're referring to, because I don't know what you're referring to as the ""air jet intake"". Needless to say, fuel should not be squirting externally out of a jet. If this isn't the culprit for the current issue, it's definitely one needing attention. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1997/S200TXRV/CARBURETOR/parts.html","Take a look at the parts blow out using the link below. Identify the jet you're referring to, because I don't know what you're referring to as the ""air jet intake"". Needless to say, fuel should not be squirting externally out of a jet. If this isn't the culprit for the current issue, it's definitely one needing attention. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1997/S200TXRV/CARBURETOR/parts.html",Put piston on #1 to bottom of stroke.-----Post pictures of cylinder wall both sides.----Repeat with other 2 cylinders. +"My motor is a 1997 model year s200txrv. It sat for over year and the fuel turned bad. I cleaned the tank, lines, filters and such and removed maybe two quarts of water with 40 gallons of fuel I had to repurpose. + + +Fresh fuel, 90 octane recreational gas, no ethanol added to the fuel tank. Motor started and stopped straight away. I tried a few squeezes on the primer bulb and fuel squirted out the air jet intake on the top carburetor. I thought that the floats were hung up and took it off to find it full of an opaque jell like b b size pellets. I removed the other two carburetors and found similar conditions so I rebuilt all three of them. I also cleaned the two fuel pumps. + + +I re-installed the carburetors today and the same thing on the top carburetor occured again. Fuel squirts out of the main jet air intake of the carburetor, the other two are fine. + + +With the carburetor off the motor, I can hold the carburetor upside down to seat the needles and push 20 psi of air from the compressor and no there is no leakage. + + +I am at a lost as to what causes this and would greatly appreciate any ideas to remedy the situation. + + +Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. + + +H, Henry","Thanks for the replies. I don't know how to post a photo here, but in the parts schematic in your link they are located under the part marked #27. Two small brass jets about 3/16 diameter. On the intake ace of the carburetor in the bottom schematic an opening is shown above the two butterfly valves, The fuel is comes out of those two places. + +With that said, I have given a thorough cleaning to all three carbs and installed three re-build kits. I have further determined that the needle valve(s) are not seating. I have switched valves with the other two carbs, bought two more new ones, tried the old, original failed ones, too. I cleaned and polished the seats as well, all to no avail. The seats are brass but I have not seen them listed for sale anywhere, nor do they look to be readily removable. Float heights are set to the 0.063"" +/- 0.02"" as specified in my Seloc manual. and the online Yamaha Service manual. + +The aluminum carburetor body looks good on all three, so I am skeptical of an internal crack or corrosion. I am at the point of looking for a used, rebuild-able carburetor which can be a challenge. New ones are over $500.00. + +Once again, thanks for the help guys.","Thanks for the replies. I don't know how to post a photo here, but in the parts schematic in your link they are located under the part marked #27. Two small brass jets about 3/16 diameter. On the intake ace of the carburetor in the bottom schematic an opening is shown above the two butterfly valves, The fuel is comes out of those two places. + +With that said, I have given a thorough cleaning to all three carbs and installed three re-build kits. I have further determined that the needle valve(s) are not seating. I have switched valves with the other two carbs, bought two more new ones, tried the old, original failed ones, too. I cleaned and polished the seats as well, all to no avail. The seats are brass but I have not seen them listed for sale anywhere, nor do they look to be readily removable. Float heights are set to the 0.063"" +/- 0.02"" as specified in my Seloc manual. and the online Yamaha Service manual. + +The aluminum carburetor body looks good on all three, so I am skeptical of an internal crack or corrosion. I am at the point of looking for a used, rebuild-able carburetor which can be a challenge. New ones are over $500.00. + +Once again, thanks for the help guys.","makomark said: + + + + based on your 'readings' sounds like there's a huge voltage drop thru the solenoid.....if the connections and wires leading to it are ok, probably time for a new solenoid..... + +Click to expand... + +Thanks mako, I ran all new wires from battery to motor. Voltage went up but still not firing. I just don't have the equipment to troubleshoot motor so hauled it to macanic. Thanks for the input" +"My motor is a 1997 model year s200txrv. It sat for over year and the fuel turned bad. I cleaned the tank, lines, filters and such and removed maybe two quarts of water with 40 gallons of fuel I had to repurpose. + + +Fresh fuel, 90 octane recreational gas, no ethanol added to the fuel tank. Motor started and stopped straight away. I tried a few squeezes on the primer bulb and fuel squirted out the air jet intake on the top carburetor. I thought that the floats were hung up and took it off to find it full of an opaque jell like b b size pellets. I removed the other two carburetors and found similar conditions so I rebuilt all three of them. I also cleaned the two fuel pumps. + + +I re-installed the carburetors today and the same thing on the top carburetor occured again. Fuel squirts out of the main jet air intake of the carburetor, the other two are fine. + + +With the carburetor off the motor, I can hold the carburetor upside down to seat the needles and push 20 psi of air from the compressor and no there is no leakage. + + +I am at a lost as to what causes this and would greatly appreciate any ideas to remedy the situation. + + +Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. + + +H, Henry","Success! Bottom line is that floats were not seating. First time was the junk build up. Second time was the float height setting. I had taken the carburetor to a marine mechanic and during disassembly he dropped one of the float pins. He opened a new package and replaced both. There was still no joy, same flooding out of the carburetor. + +I measured everything with a caliper and found the new float pins to be 0.005"" smaller in diameter then the old ones, so I put old ones from one of the other carburetors in and noticed a lot less side to side movement of the floats. I also set the floats to 0.068"" above the body rather than the specified 0.063"" +/- 0.002"". Motor started right up!!! :rolleyes:","Success! Bottom line is that floats were not seating. First time was the junk build up. Second time was the float height setting. I had taken the carburetor to a marine mechanic and during disassembly he dropped one of the float pins. He opened a new package and replaced both. There was still no joy, same flooding out of the carburetor. + +I measured everything with a caliper and found the new float pins to be 0.005"" smaller in diameter then the old ones, so I put old ones from one of the other carburetors in and noticed a lot less side to side movement of the floats. I also set the floats to 0.068"" above the body rather than the specified 0.063"" +/- 0.002"". Motor started right up!!! :rolleyes:","Ayuh,.... My guess is the wires on the trim limit switch rotted off,... + +The dash switch is probably the tilt switch, which by-passes the limit switch on the gimbel ring,..." +"First time trying to bleed air from a 2-stroke oil injection pump on a Yamaha 40hp (3 cylinder). + + +The oil reservoir is inside the cowling. I'm puzzled by there being two oil lines between this reservoir and the oil injection pump. +Photo of the reservoir attached below. Also a rough diagram to show the two oil lines. + + +In the diagram, line B is the main feed of oil from the bottom of the reservoir to the oil pump at F. +But there is also line A from the reservoir to the top of the oil pump with a check valve allowing flow only towards E. + + +Appreciate anyone able to explain why and when oil will flow through this second line?","Excess oil return line? I don't own any oil injection engines, but I would think this is the main reason.","Excess oil return line? I don't own any oil injection engines, but I would think this is the main reason.", +"First time trying to bleed air from a 2-stroke oil injection pump on a Yamaha 40hp (3 cylinder). + + +The oil reservoir is inside the cowling. I'm puzzled by there being two oil lines between this reservoir and the oil injection pump. +Photo of the reservoir attached below. Also a rough diagram to show the two oil lines. + + +In the diagram, line B is the main feed of oil from the bottom of the reservoir to the oil pump at F. +But there is also line A from the reservoir to the top of the oil pump with a check valve allowing flow only towards E. + + +Appreciate anyone able to explain why and when oil will flow through this second line?","Since the check valve allows flow only in the direction of the pump (towards E), excess oil would then only arise at the time I fill (overfill) the reservoir; but why would Line A have two ports into the reservoir (up high and also at the bottom), and why flow excess oil to the pump - why burden it with the problem? + +So I'm not sure how LineA can serve to handle excess oil.","Since the check valve allows flow only in the direction of the pump (towards E), excess oil would then only arise at the time I fill (overfill) the reservoir; but why would Line A have two ports into the reservoir (up high and also at the bottom), and why flow excess oil to the pump - why burden it with the problem? + +So I'm not sure how LineA can serve to handle excess oil.","Bingo you found it, the sender is bad, not working throughout the range" +"First time trying to bleed air from a 2-stroke oil injection pump on a Yamaha 40hp (3 cylinder). + + +The oil reservoir is inside the cowling. I'm puzzled by there being two oil lines between this reservoir and the oil injection pump. +Photo of the reservoir attached below. Also a rough diagram to show the two oil lines. + + +In the diagram, line B is the main feed of oil from the bottom of the reservoir to the oil pump at F. +But there is also line A from the reservoir to the top of the oil pump with a check valve allowing flow only towards E. + + +Appreciate anyone able to explain why and when oil will flow through this second line?","To all readers of this thread - my apologies; I have now removed the Check Valve to clean it, and discovered it's direction is AWAY from the pump (not towards the pump as my first post stated). That changes things quite a bit. + +Also makes Koditten's suggestion (post # 2 above) that it may be an ""excess oil return line"" from the pump very plausible. + +So two questions come to mind: + +1) Why are there TWO entry points into the oil reservoir from this return line when one would seemingly suffice? + +2) Does this injection pump draw more oil than needed in order to provide cooling for the pump internals, like an inboard diesel engine does (which produces a strong stream of diesel return flow to the tank all the time)? +Is this the same cooling purpose and thus a steady return flow of oil would occur whenever the pump is operating?","To all readers of this thread - my apologies; I have now removed the Check Valve to clean it, and discovered it's direction is AWAY from the pump (not towards the pump as my first post stated). That changes things quite a bit. + +Also makes Koditten's suggestion (post # 2 above) that it may be an ""excess oil return line"" from the pump very plausible. + +So two questions come to mind: + +1) Why are there TWO entry points into the oil reservoir from this return line when one would seemingly suffice? + +2) Does this injection pump draw more oil than needed in order to provide cooling for the pump internals, like an inboard diesel engine does (which produces a strong stream of diesel return flow to the tank all the time)? +Is this the same cooling purpose and thus a steady return flow of oil would occur whenever the pump is operating?",fiberglassing in stringers might work.anybody else? +"First time trying to bleed air from a 2-stroke oil injection pump on a Yamaha 40hp (3 cylinder). + + +The oil reservoir is inside the cowling. I'm puzzled by there being two oil lines between this reservoir and the oil injection pump. +Photo of the reservoir attached below. Also a rough diagram to show the two oil lines. + + +In the diagram, line B is the main feed of oil from the bottom of the reservoir to the oil pump at F. +But there is also line A from the reservoir to the top of the oil pump with a check valve allowing flow only towards E. + + +Appreciate anyone able to explain why and when oil will flow through this second line?",The pump on your motor is an engine driven mechanical gear drive pump that connects directly to the crankshaft. The oil control part is controlled through The throttle linkage. The way it works is between the oil intake and oil exit is a cam. This cam is graduated so that it mostly covers the exit hole at an idle. As you throttle up more and more of the exit hole to the carbs is uncovered. At full throttle the pump exit is wide open. When you chop the throttle the reverse happens the pump exit gets covered. Since the engine will not throttle down as fast as you can chop the throttle. The pump being connected to the motor by a gear is pumping oil at a higher rate correlating with engine RPM. Since the throttle has been reduced so has the size of the exit hole because it is connected to the throttle linkage. This means for a couple seconds you have excess pressure until the motor gets to a stable rpm. You have 2 return points because if the oil level covers the lower one it can still go to the top one. Easiest way to bleed the pump is turn the bleed screw until oil comes out. Then disconnect the throttle linkage from the pump. Start the motor on a 50-1 pre-mix them manually turn the pump control to the wide open position and watch until the air is out of the 3 lines. Do this while the motor is idling then reconnect the linkage. The variable oil ratio is controlled by a combination of the port size and pump speed.,The pump on your motor is an engine driven mechanical gear drive pump that connects directly to the crankshaft. The oil control part is controlled through The throttle linkage. The way it works is between the oil intake and oil exit is a cam. This cam is graduated so that it mostly covers the exit hole at an idle. As you throttle up more and more of the exit hole to the carbs is uncovered. At full throttle the pump exit is wide open. When you chop the throttle the reverse happens the pump exit gets covered. Since the engine will not throttle down as fast as you can chop the throttle. The pump being connected to the motor by a gear is pumping oil at a higher rate correlating with engine RPM. Since the throttle has been reduced so has the size of the exit hole because it is connected to the throttle linkage. This means for a couple seconds you have excess pressure until the motor gets to a stable rpm. You have 2 return points because if the oil level covers the lower one it can still go to the top one. Easiest way to bleed the pump is turn the bleed screw until oil comes out. Then disconnect the throttle linkage from the pump. Start the motor on a 50-1 pre-mix them manually turn the pump control to the wide open position and watch until the air is out of the 3 lines. Do this while the motor is idling then reconnect the linkage. The variable oil ratio is controlled by a combination of the port size and pump speed.,"Well, I've seen a few that have worked out on 21 - 25 ft boats, but others were a disaster. A big consideration is weight distribution. For example, a Honda 225 weighs approx 625 lbs. If you hang that on something like an Armstrong motor extension off the transom, which will be necessary, you're changing the whole weight distribution and hull attitude of the boat. Plus, the 225, if new, with all the rigging, including hydraulic steering, gauges, wiring, etc. will be around $20K. The boat's not worth it." +"First time trying to bleed air from a 2-stroke oil injection pump on a Yamaha 40hp (3 cylinder). + + +The oil reservoir is inside the cowling. I'm puzzled by there being two oil lines between this reservoir and the oil injection pump. +Photo of the reservoir attached below. Also a rough diagram to show the two oil lines. + + +In the diagram, line B is the main feed of oil from the bottom of the reservoir to the oil pump at F. +But there is also line A from the reservoir to the top of the oil pump with a check valve allowing flow only towards E. + + +Appreciate anyone able to explain why and when oil will flow through this second line?","Thank you, Flyingscott, for taking time to write such a detailed description of the oil pump operation. + +What you wrote answers very well the questions as to When and Why the pump would have to push out excess oil. + +I appreciate it especially since 2-stroke engines over 25hp seem to be becoming very rare compared to 4-strokes, and thus there seems to be less expertise about outboard oil injection pumps around. + +I only know as much as the typical weekend boater, but even so am actually impressed with the way Yamaha implemented the oil injection - the oil being injected AFTER the carburetors, thereby ensuring that only pure gasoline travels through the carb jets and (hopefully) those jets will stay cleaner without having to handle an oil mix. + +Regarding your directions on how to bleed air from the pump - I really needed that tip as well. After I get to replace some of the hardened hose lines on the oil tank, I will unbolt the fuel pump (it obscures the oil pump somewhat) and try to get my first good view of the oil pump bleed screw. I'll be keen to report back here.","Thank you, Flyingscott, for taking time to write such a detailed description of the oil pump operation. + +What you wrote answers very well the questions as to When and Why the pump would have to push out excess oil. + +I appreciate it especially since 2-stroke engines over 25hp seem to be becoming very rare compared to 4-strokes, and thus there seems to be less expertise about outboard oil injection pumps around. + +I only know as much as the typical weekend boater, but even so am actually impressed with the way Yamaha implemented the oil injection - the oil being injected AFTER the carburetors, thereby ensuring that only pure gasoline travels through the carb jets and (hopefully) those jets will stay cleaner without having to handle an oil mix. + +Regarding your directions on how to bleed air from the pump - I really needed that tip as well. After I get to replace some of the hardened hose lines on the oil tank, I will unbolt the fuel pump (it obscures the oil pump somewhat) and try to get my first good view of the oil pump bleed screw. I'll be keen to report back here.",Sorry. I have not a clue. +"First time trying to bleed air from a 2-stroke oil injection pump on a Yamaha 40hp (3 cylinder). + + +The oil reservoir is inside the cowling. I'm puzzled by there being two oil lines between this reservoir and the oil injection pump. +Photo of the reservoir attached below. Also a rough diagram to show the two oil lines. + + +In the diagram, line B is the main feed of oil from the bottom of the reservoir to the oil pump at F. +But there is also line A from the reservoir to the top of the oil pump with a check valve allowing flow only towards E. + + +Appreciate anyone able to explain why and when oil will flow through this second line?",Get a manual for your motor preferably a Yamaha factory one. One thing I forgot to mention is that the pump is slightly overdriven. This means the pump does provide a little extra oil that needs to be bled off. That is because when you accelerate quickly it needs that extra oil until the pump catches up. Yamaha and Suzuki had the best oil injection systems of any carbed 2 stem outboards.,Get a manual for your motor preferably a Yamaha factory one. One thing I forgot to mention is that the pump is slightly overdriven. This means the pump does provide a little extra oil that needs to be bled off. That is because when you accelerate quickly it needs that extra oil until the pump catches up. Yamaha and Suzuki had the best oil injection systems of any carbed 2 stem outboards.,Thanks for your reply. Will do tomorrow and post results +"First time trying to bleed air from a 2-stroke oil injection pump on a Yamaha 40hp (3 cylinder). + + +The oil reservoir is inside the cowling. I'm puzzled by there being two oil lines between this reservoir and the oil injection pump. +Photo of the reservoir attached below. Also a rough diagram to show the two oil lines. + + +In the diagram, line B is the main feed of oil from the bottom of the reservoir to the oil pump at F. +But there is also line A from the reservoir to the top of the oil pump with a check valve allowing flow only towards E. + + +Appreciate anyone able to explain why and when oil will flow through this second line?","The oil pump Bleed instructions in the Yamaha service manual that I have access to - refer to the bottom part of this post. + +Step2 in those instructions refer to removal of the air bleed screw. However, the accompanying photo in the manual is not close up enough for me to work out where exactly the BLEED SCREW is located. + +So I attach a photo of the oil pump on the Yamaha engine I'm actually working on. The only ""screw"" I can see is a small philips screw head visible near the bottom of the pump body - small and hard to get to. + +Question: is that really the bleed screw? + + + + +Bleeding instructions in service manual: + +1. Prepare a 50:1 fuel mix, connect a flushing device and start the motor. +2. Place a suitable cloth under the air bleed screw. Remove the air bleed screw and allow oil to flow from the opening until a bubble-free flow of oil is obtained. +3. Install and tighten the bleed screw. Should the oil flow very slowly into the delivery hoses, check the vent on the oil tank to be sure it is dear. +4. Remove the cotter pin and then the link rod from the oil injection pump lever. +5. Turn the lever to the fully open position counterclockwise as far as possible. Allow the powerhead to idle at 800 rpm for about ten minutes. +6. Hold a suitable cloth under the oil delivery fitting at cylinder No. 1. +Remove the oil delivery line and allow the oil to flow into the cloth. Observe the oil flow for a few minutes to be sure no air bubbles are present. +Reconnect the line. Shut down the powerhead and remove the flushing device. +7. Connect the oil pump linkage and check its adjustment. With the throttle shut, the oil injection pump lever should be at the minimum stroke position.","The oil pump Bleed instructions in the Yamaha service manual that I have access to - refer to the bottom part of this post. + +Step2 in those instructions refer to removal of the air bleed screw. However, the accompanying photo in the manual is not close up enough for me to work out where exactly the BLEED SCREW is located. + +So I attach a photo of the oil pump on the Yamaha engine I'm actually working on. The only ""screw"" I can see is a small philips screw head visible near the bottom of the pump body - small and hard to get to. + +Question: is that really the bleed screw? + + + + +Bleeding instructions in service manual: + +1. Prepare a 50:1 fuel mix, connect a flushing device and start the motor. +2. Place a suitable cloth under the air bleed screw. Remove the air bleed screw and allow oil to flow from the opening until a bubble-free flow of oil is obtained. +3. Install and tighten the bleed screw. Should the oil flow very slowly into the delivery hoses, check the vent on the oil tank to be sure it is dear. +4. Remove the cotter pin and then the link rod from the oil injection pump lever. +5. Turn the lever to the fully open position counterclockwise as far as possible. Allow the powerhead to idle at 800 rpm for about ten minutes. +6. Hold a suitable cloth under the oil delivery fitting at cylinder No. 1. +Remove the oil delivery line and allow the oil to flow into the cloth. Observe the oil flow for a few minutes to be sure no air bubbles are present. +Reconnect the line. Shut down the powerhead and remove the flushing device. +7. Connect the oil pump linkage and check its adjustment. With the throttle shut, the oil injection pump lever should be at the minimum stroke position.","South Jersey near Blackwood, Deptford and Gloucester Township" +"Hi there, + +I've got a 1989 FT9.9 4 stroke, and I made a test tank out of a 275 gallon tote. It seems to work great. + +However I noticed after running at high throttle for a while that the engine started exhausting white smoke and dribbling out a nasty sticky black gunk from the upper exhaust hole. I've had other issues before, but this is the first time experiencing this. It's had good (119/110) compression in the past but I don't have a tester and so haven't checked since running in the test tank. + +Is it possible that running in a test tank with a normal prop (it's a high thrust motor) presumably at low RPMs could cause this issue? + +I also just rebuit the carb, which resolved another issue but could theoretically have caused this. My first instinct was to check float bowl height but it was fine. + +Any ideas? Thanks!",check termostat.if its not reach right temp so pistons will not expend,check termostat.if its not reach right temp so pistons will not expend,"Todd H. said: + + + + I am guessing you have looked at the CDI troubleshooting guide. It gives complete details about the CDI, testing, what fires what... your engine starts on page 163. + +https://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/7th-Edition-Troubleshooting-Guide_RS.pdf + +I have a 1989 150 and have had to replace 3 ignition coils over the years, swapping them around can help locating the problem if the misfire / non fire moves with the coil, guessing you have tried that as well. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes i did print off the cdi troubleshooting pages for the motor very helpful, and I swapped around coils as well." +"Hi there, + +I've got a 1989 FT9.9 4 stroke, and I made a test tank out of a 275 gallon tote. It seems to work great. + +However I noticed after running at high throttle for a while that the engine started exhausting white smoke and dribbling out a nasty sticky black gunk from the upper exhaust hole. I've had other issues before, but this is the first time experiencing this. It's had good (119/110) compression in the past but I don't have a tester and so haven't checked since running in the test tank. + +Is it possible that running in a test tank with a normal prop (it's a high thrust motor) presumably at low RPMs could cause this issue? + +I also just rebuit the carb, which resolved another issue but could theoretically have caused this. My first instinct was to check float bowl height but it was fine. + +Any ideas? Thanks!","Hi raczekp1, the motor has a couple of bimetal things that are used for starting, but it doesn't have a thermostat that's used when the engine is a temp. When I put an infrared gun on the block it shows about 175 degF when run under load.","Hi raczekp1, the motor has a couple of bimetal things that are used for starting, but it doesn't have a thermostat that's used when the engine is a temp. When I put an infrared gun on the block it shows about 175 degF when run under load.","Hmmm... seems pretty funny to have the pinion pushed up on the motor - why have a bearing then to prevent the driveshaft from going down, and no bearing to prevent it from going up? I don't think Yamaha engineers are that stupid. as for the preload pin, only 90 and up engines have them as far as I know - mine is an 89' 50ELF. anyways, I took out some shim material and after turning the driveshaft while pushing down I got a great gear pattern." +"C40TRLX +Compression: 115/115/114 +New ignition system (CDI, Pulser Coil, Lightning coil, Charge Coil, 3 Ignition Coils, Rectifier) +Rebuilt carbs, new fuel pump, filters, fuel lines with mechanical clamps no bleed down with vacuum gauge. (Carb needles adjusted to 1-1/4 turns then fine tuned using inductive tach on each cyl) +All DVA readings in spec. (Via CDI manual and Yamaha Factory Manual for C40 & C50) +Performed link and synch and verified timing adjustments correct. +Idle: 8 degrees ATDC, WOT in tank in neutral: 26 degrees BTDC (In spec via Yamaha Factory Manual) (Cant test in gear at WOT due to tank limitations and danger while running on river, tiller drive) + +This motor is pretty dialed in and runs well with no obvious tell tales of poor parts are settings. When in the tank, in neutral and WOT it will hit 3200 rpm. Under load with me (210#) 15gal of fuel, 2 life vests, two paddles and two padded seats (total weight about 450# with boat) the WOT is 2600 and it seems to be a tad slow to get up to speed. Hole shot seems OK with no stall or lope. Top speed on flat slack water is 25mph via GPS) +Boat is a flat Monarch aluminum. +Prior to new ignition and carb rebuild the boat would hit WOT-4000 rpm with a top speed of 34mph. +Im concerned that the motor not hitting spec ( 4500-5500 via Yamaha Factory Manual) may wear down crank bearings. +Any suggestions on if this is the norm for an aftermarket CDI or maybe I missed something? I have scoured the prop sites and they all suggest a 10-5/8 x 12 prop and that's what's on there. Im not a prop scientist, would a prop change be in order? To be fair the boat is a tad overpowered when running correctly, however, as duck boat it is usually weighted down during the season and I like the extra wattage for 15+ mile runs into the marsh.",While underway under load at WOT does the engine sound like it's at peak power? If so I would test engine with a different tach.,While underway under load at WOT does the engine sound like it's at peak power? If so I would test engine with a different tach.,"ringo111 said: + + + + just purchased honda trim gauge of ebay , with no instructions does anyone have any info on how to wire it to a 75 hp honda 4 stroke 2001 .thanks./ + +Click to expand... + + +You can find beautiful, easy to install gauges at Ocean Guages.com. It's a huge hassle to look for instructions on an old part and these gauges don't fade in the sun either!" +"C40TRLX +Compression: 115/115/114 +New ignition system (CDI, Pulser Coil, Lightning coil, Charge Coil, 3 Ignition Coils, Rectifier) +Rebuilt carbs, new fuel pump, filters, fuel lines with mechanical clamps no bleed down with vacuum gauge. (Carb needles adjusted to 1-1/4 turns then fine tuned using inductive tach on each cyl) +All DVA readings in spec. (Via CDI manual and Yamaha Factory Manual for C40 & C50) +Performed link and synch and verified timing adjustments correct. +Idle: 8 degrees ATDC, WOT in tank in neutral: 26 degrees BTDC (In spec via Yamaha Factory Manual) (Cant test in gear at WOT due to tank limitations and danger while running on river, tiller drive) + +This motor is pretty dialed in and runs well with no obvious tell tales of poor parts are settings. When in the tank, in neutral and WOT it will hit 3200 rpm. Under load with me (210#) 15gal of fuel, 2 life vests, two paddles and two padded seats (total weight about 450# with boat) the WOT is 2600 and it seems to be a tad slow to get up to speed. Hole shot seems OK with no stall or lope. Top speed on flat slack water is 25mph via GPS) +Boat is a flat Monarch aluminum. +Prior to new ignition and carb rebuild the boat would hit WOT-4000 rpm with a top speed of 34mph. +Im concerned that the motor not hitting spec ( 4500-5500 via Yamaha Factory Manual) may wear down crank bearings. +Any suggestions on if this is the norm for an aftermarket CDI or maybe I missed something? I have scoured the prop sites and they all suggest a 10-5/8 x 12 prop and that's what's on there. Im not a prop scientist, would a prop change be in order? To be fair the boat is a tad overpowered when running correctly, however, as duck boat it is usually weighted down during the season and I like the extra wattage for 15+ mile runs into the marsh.","Thanks ClassicAQ. Just for the record, My other boat is an Aquaspot 201 with a 209 yamaha. +I was thinking the same thing. It has a Marpac analog tach set on the 4 pole setting. Manual sez it is a six pole but at idle, 6 pole is about 400 rpm higher and I know it aint at 1200 rpm idle. 4 pole seems right. That said the speed is is off by 6-8mph which regardless what the tach sez, is lower than normal or at least what was","Thanks ClassicAQ. Just for the record, My other boat is an Aquaspot 201 with a 209 yamaha. +I was thinking the same thing. It has a Marpac analog tach set on the 4 pole setting. Manual sez it is a six pole but at idle, 6 pole is about 400 rpm higher and I know it aint at 1200 rpm idle. 4 pole seems right. That said the speed is is off by 6-8mph which regardless what the tach sez, is lower than normal or at least what was","ClassicAQ, thanks for your help. Exactly the information I needed to stop me from making the mistake. I checked to find place in the front for the two batteries now located just in front of the motor. I will have to construct boxes to mount in the fishing platform but I think I can move them. The AV plate is within 1/2 inch from the bottom of the boat. Before doing anything, I will take it out again to try adjusting trim. It has hyd. trim adjustment but the first time I was having some running issues that have now been corrected. I hope I can find some prefabricated aluminum or plastic battery boxes that will mount flush with the floor with a hinged cover. If not I will try to make some. I think this weight distribution will probably be a good thing to do whatever I find on the next try. Thanks again for your help, I do appreciate it." +"C40TRLX +Compression: 115/115/114 +New ignition system (CDI, Pulser Coil, Lightning coil, Charge Coil, 3 Ignition Coils, Rectifier) +Rebuilt carbs, new fuel pump, filters, fuel lines with mechanical clamps no bleed down with vacuum gauge. (Carb needles adjusted to 1-1/4 turns then fine tuned using inductive tach on each cyl) +All DVA readings in spec. (Via CDI manual and Yamaha Factory Manual for C40 & C50) +Performed link and synch and verified timing adjustments correct. +Idle: 8 degrees ATDC, WOT in tank in neutral: 26 degrees BTDC (In spec via Yamaha Factory Manual) (Cant test in gear at WOT due to tank limitations and danger while running on river, tiller drive) + +This motor is pretty dialed in and runs well with no obvious tell tales of poor parts are settings. When in the tank, in neutral and WOT it will hit 3200 rpm. Under load with me (210#) 15gal of fuel, 2 life vests, two paddles and two padded seats (total weight about 450# with boat) the WOT is 2600 and it seems to be a tad slow to get up to speed. Hole shot seems OK with no stall or lope. Top speed on flat slack water is 25mph via GPS) +Boat is a flat Monarch aluminum. +Prior to new ignition and carb rebuild the boat would hit WOT-4000 rpm with a top speed of 34mph. +Im concerned that the motor not hitting spec ( 4500-5500 via Yamaha Factory Manual) may wear down crank bearings. +Any suggestions on if this is the norm for an aftermarket CDI or maybe I missed something? I have scoured the prop sites and they all suggest a 10-5/8 x 12 prop and that's what's on there. Im not a prop scientist, would a prop change be in order? To be fair the boat is a tad overpowered when running correctly, however, as duck boat it is usually weighted down during the season and I like the extra wattage for 15+ mile runs into the marsh.","As you continue to troubleshoot, I wouldn't rely on speed as a means to gauge engine performance. This is because there are numerous environmental variables that affect speed. Rpms are the looking glass, so to speak, of engine performance. I'd first find means to confirm accurate rpms, as speed is just the byproduct of rpms with influencing environmental and load factors.","As you continue to troubleshoot, I wouldn't rely on speed as a means to gauge engine performance. This is because there are numerous environmental variables that affect speed. Rpms are the looking glass, so to speak, of engine performance. I'd first find means to confirm accurate rpms, as speed is just the byproduct of rpms with influencing environmental and load factors.","collapsed liner in fuel line/s. easy to check and replace. check all fuel lines, including ones in engine." +"C40TRLX +Compression: 115/115/114 +New ignition system (CDI, Pulser Coil, Lightning coil, Charge Coil, 3 Ignition Coils, Rectifier) +Rebuilt carbs, new fuel pump, filters, fuel lines with mechanical clamps no bleed down with vacuum gauge. (Carb needles adjusted to 1-1/4 turns then fine tuned using inductive tach on each cyl) +All DVA readings in spec. (Via CDI manual and Yamaha Factory Manual for C40 & C50) +Performed link and synch and verified timing adjustments correct. +Idle: 8 degrees ATDC, WOT in tank in neutral: 26 degrees BTDC (In spec via Yamaha Factory Manual) (Cant test in gear at WOT due to tank limitations and danger while running on river, tiller drive) + +This motor is pretty dialed in and runs well with no obvious tell tales of poor parts are settings. When in the tank, in neutral and WOT it will hit 3200 rpm. Under load with me (210#) 15gal of fuel, 2 life vests, two paddles and two padded seats (total weight about 450# with boat) the WOT is 2600 and it seems to be a tad slow to get up to speed. Hole shot seems OK with no stall or lope. Top speed on flat slack water is 25mph via GPS) +Boat is a flat Monarch aluminum. +Prior to new ignition and carb rebuild the boat would hit WOT-4000 rpm with a top speed of 34mph. +Im concerned that the motor not hitting spec ( 4500-5500 via Yamaha Factory Manual) may wear down crank bearings. +Any suggestions on if this is the norm for an aftermarket CDI or maybe I missed something? I have scoured the prop sites and they all suggest a 10-5/8 x 12 prop and that's what's on there. Im not a prop scientist, would a prop change be in order? To be fair the boat is a tad overpowered when running correctly, however, as duck boat it is usually weighted down during the season and I like the extra wattage for 15+ mile runs into the marsh.",Good point. Ill get another tach and see whats doin.,Good point. Ill get another tach and see whats doin.,"Thank you for responding but unfortunately, I'm not looking for a remote for it. I am just looking for aftermarket parts for the throttle control. I have looked it seems in every place that I could look that discussed after market parts. So I was just looking for suggestions on the best place to look for after market parts instead of getting the same results for OEM parts." +"I bought a 40hp with 703 controls but the guy had lost the key and had it beat out and used a screwdriver + +I have a few questions. I'm looking to buy a new key switch for it. I have attached a couple of pictures of what I have. I'm looking on ebay for one I see some buy they have extra wires coming from the key switch (a blue and an extra red, ect), does this matter at all? + +How do I know which key switch to buy? I'm also not sure if it is a push to choke or not either. The motor is a 99 40hp 2 stroke. Serial # for the motor is C40ELRX and I can't seem to do a look up with that either. + +Can somebody help before I start throwing money at key switches that might not work? + +*EDIT* wont let me upload pictures for some reason","https://ibb.co/eAZwen +https://ibb.co/bsMsKn +https://ibb.co/kJASKn +https://ibb.co/hNhUX7","https://ibb.co/eAZwen +https://ibb.co/bsMsKn +https://ibb.co/kJASKn +https://ibb.co/hNhUX7",yes it jumps that +"I bought a 40hp with 703 controls but the guy had lost the key and had it beat out and used a screwdriver + +I have a few questions. I'm looking to buy a new key switch for it. I have attached a couple of pictures of what I have. I'm looking on ebay for one I see some buy they have extra wires coming from the key switch (a blue and an extra red, ect), does this matter at all? + +How do I know which key switch to buy? I'm also not sure if it is a push to choke or not either. The motor is a 99 40hp 2 stroke. Serial # for the motor is C40ELRX and I can't seem to do a look up with that either. + +Can somebody help before I start throwing money at key switches that might not work? + +*EDIT* wont let me upload pictures for some reason","each one wil work in 703 control. +just choose one: +https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...RS0&_nkw=703+control+ignition+switch&_sacat=0","each one wil work in 703 control. +just choose one: +https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...RS0&_nkw=703+control+ignition+switch&_sacat=0","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + +After the bulb gets hard, if you keep constant pressure on it does it stay hard or does it slowly collapse? + +Click to expand... + +You can check this on the trailer or at the dock with the engine off." +"Anybody know where you get loctite 572 in Australia for the thread bolts? Is there a equilivent? +Internet has the loctite but a wait of 3 -4 weeks around $35 +Thanks","If you must have Loctite 572 I can't help, but I have often used the aviation type Permatex for the same purpose successfully for decades. The Loctite products are common in stores here in the U.S.A so I currently use both, the Loctite is simpler and less messy to work with. Good luck with your quest.","If you must have Loctite 572 I can't help, but I have often used the aviation type Permatex for the same purpose successfully for decades. The Loctite products are common in stores here in the U.S.A so I currently use both, the Loctite is simpler and less messy to work with. Good luck with your quest.","When the problem occurs, do a cylinder drop test on it to see if you can find out what cyl is acting up." +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","If the gear box is in forward gear before dropping the lower unit, it would be near impossible for you to hand turn the crankshaft clockwise as you push down the impeller housing over the impeller. Gear box should be in neutral. + +What year is your engine? If this is your first impeller exchange I highly advise getting yourself a service manual specific to your engine. Even for the most experienced marine mechanic, getting the collar and wave washer on/off can be arduous, as well as extracting a seized woodruff key.","If the gear box is in forward gear before dropping the lower unit, it would be near impossible for you to hand turn the crankshaft clockwise as you push down the impeller housing over the impeller. Gear box should be in neutral. + +What year is your engine? If this is your first impeller exchange I highly advise getting yourself a service manual specific to your engine. Even for the most experienced marine mechanic, getting the collar and wave washer on/off can be arduous, as well as extracting a seized woodruff key.","Appreciate the reply, I'm not operating this boat any different than my Carolina skiff w/ a 60 hp Yami and it doesn't grind like the 150 if it grinds at all" +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links",ClassicAQ----With the lower unit off the motor it will be easy to turn the driveshaft by hand.----Makes no difference whether in gear or neutral !!,ClassicAQ----With the lower unit off the motor it will be easy to turn the driveshaft by hand.----Makes no difference whether in gear or neutral !!,"JSta540 said: + + + + First time posting here: + +I recently got a 2002 Skeeter SX180 bass fishing boat from a friend that has a Yamaha outboard motor. V4 115HP. Problem is whenever I get it on the water to run it dies after trying to go any faster than 20mph. I know the general working of a motor so I’ve cleaned the carburetor, replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, and water fuel separator. It’s got brand new gas in it too. The worst part is it runs great in the driveway with muffs on I can get it to run full throttle with no problems. I’ve done some googling and tried messing with the so called ‘idle screws’ but nothing. Is there something simple I’m missing? My next thought is the fuel lines may be old and clogged but figured I’d post here to see if anyone has any experience or suggestions. If you need anymore info I’ll do my best to reply as quick as I can. Any help is greatly appreciated! + +Click to expand... + +Model number please. Did you disassemble carbs and install new carb kits? Please post compression numbers." +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","I mention turning the crankshaft solely because moving from gear to gear should be done when shaft is turning. Do you have the prop on when lower unit is dropped? If so, turn gear shifter all way clockwise. Now try to spin the prop clockwise with your hand. It should not spin. Then turn shifter all the way counterclockwise and spin prop counterclockwise. It should not spin. Put shifter in neutral gear. Spin prop by hand. It should freely spin in both directions. If prop doesn't do any of the above, you've got a gear box issue, either clutch or dogs, or something else.","I mention turning the crankshaft solely because moving from gear to gear should be done when shaft is turning. Do you have the prop on when lower unit is dropped? If so, turn gear shifter all way clockwise. Now try to spin the prop clockwise with your hand. It should not spin. Then turn shifter all the way counterclockwise and spin prop counterclockwise. It should not spin. Put shifter in neutral gear. Spin prop by hand. It should freely spin in both directions. If prop doesn't do any of the above, you've got a gear box issue, either clutch or dogs, or something else.",Clean both surfaces and use green locktite 648 and push it back in. +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links",oh well ----Post #2 and 4 seem totally different.----No need to confuse the owner of this motor ! -------When the lower unit is off and impeller is off it is easy to turn the lower unit.------In forward / reverse / neutral makes no difference !!,oh well ----Post #2 and 4 seem totally different.----No need to confuse the owner of this motor ! -------When the lower unit is off and impeller is off it is easy to turn the lower unit.------In forward / reverse / neutral makes no difference !!,"depending upon the frame for the 'ground connection' has gotten a lot of people in trouble.....and frustrated even more. + +the brake light signal is a signal signal shared between both sides and is the highest current circuit on a 4-wire system....without seeing it, its hard to be accurate but I'd be inclined to say the right side ground isn't very good. + +DC wiring is very simple, in theory....from what I've seen over the decades is many people will take short cuts and expect things to be perfect, forever....trouble is things like scotch-loks and 'tuck the ground under the mounting screw' aren't ""best practices' for long term, reliable connections. current will flow thru the path of least resistance - and when there are issues, that path is rarely considered. + +Seriously, if you want the new lights to last, run dedicated grounds for the lights....and use heat-shrink connectors with a decent tool....I did an equipment trailer about 15 years ago - and the only time I see the owner is when somebody drove over something and ripped up a section of the harness...light 13 lights and the battery and brake system...." +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","My plan was to put motor in forward gear, remove the 4 bolts and looks like I need to remove the anode also and there looks to be a bolt there also. Drop lower unit and then remove the impeller housing. Pull old impeller and put new one on. Replace the housing and reverse order all the bolts. + +I have thought about a manual also - I believe the motor is a 2008 + +thanks for replies","My plan was to put motor in forward gear, remove the 4 bolts and looks like I need to remove the anode also and there looks to be a bolt there also. Drop lower unit and then remove the impeller housing. Pull old impeller and put new one on. Replace the housing and reverse order all the bolts. + +I have thought about a manual also - I believe the motor is a 2008 + +thanks for replies","Try pumping the fuel bulb until you feel pressure. Remove the fuel line to the fuel rail and have someone stand back there holding the fuel line over a mason jar or something. Then key the ignition only to the run position (not the start position) - when the HP fuel pump kicks on for those three seconds you should get a 3 second squirt out of that fuel line. That will tell you if you're getting fuel to the rail. If you're getting fuel to the rail, try putting the fuel line back on the rail again, re-pump the fuel bulb to resistance and then key the the ignition to the run position (not start) again to get that 3-second pressure build. Key it several times while someone holds a small screwdriver down in the schrader valve on the top of the fuel rail to open it (looks just like the air fill valve on a tire) and see if with a few keyings of the ignition and squeezes of the fuel bulb you get fuel to come out of that schrader valve under pressure when someone is holding it open. That will tell you if your getting fuel up through the rail to the top and will also purge all air/bubbles that may be in their." +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","Question to Racerone and/or Classicaq (obviously guys with great expertise) about the above procedure. I am just a weekend boater learning how to service my outboard, but have informally heard that it is convenient to put the outboard into gear before dropping the lower leg. + + +The reason stated was that, when you re-install the lower leg and push the drive shaft back up, it's splines have to mesh with the female splines in the top unit. If they are slightly off, the shaft won't go up, so if the unit was left in gear, it is convenient to just jiggle the prop while pushing up and the splines would mesh. + + +Is there any merit in that approach, or alternatively, any disadvantage?","Question to Racerone and/or Classicaq (obviously guys with great expertise) about the above procedure. I am just a weekend boater learning how to service my outboard, but have informally heard that it is convenient to put the outboard into gear before dropping the lower leg. + + +The reason stated was that, when you re-install the lower leg and push the drive shaft back up, it's splines have to mesh with the female splines in the top unit. If they are slightly off, the shaft won't go up, so if the unit was left in gear, it is convenient to just jiggle the prop while pushing up and the splines would mesh. + + +Is there any merit in that approach, or alternatively, any disadvantage?",Thanks for the reply. Weight shifting will be the next step then. +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","Well, just find some u-tube videos.----Some good and some not so good videos on the topic.----Pick the one you like and try it.","Well, just find some u-tube videos.----Some good and some not so good videos on the topic.----Pick the one you like and try it.","Have you checked the fluid level in the trim system? Sounds like it's very low on fluid as it pumps so much and stops while the motor keeps running as it can't build more pressure. Check to see that it is fully filled. If not, fill it and cycle up and down while checking for any leaks throughout the hydraulic lines as it must have leaked somewhere. The hydraulic fluid doesn't vanish or burn away so I'd say there is a leak in the system somewhere if it is low. Unless you find the leak, it will work for a while and then you'll run into the same thing as the level gradually drops and you'll find when trying to trim up it will stop at lower and lower angles of trim.Google ""changing fluid on yamaha outboard power trim"" and you'll find lots of info and videos how to check and do it." +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","cooperfly said: + + + + My plan was to put motor in forward gear, remove the 4 bolts and looks like I need to remove the anode also and there looks to be a bolt there also. Drop lower unit and then remove the impeller housing. Pull old impeller and put new one on. Replace the housing and reverse order all the bolts. + +I have thought about a manual also - I believe the motor is a 2008 + +thanks for replies + +Click to expand... + + +Here is a link that directs you to the service manual for your engine, 2008 40TLR: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...aha-shop-manuals/227-2008-yamaha-40c-50c/file + +The manual will state to remove prop before dropping lower unit. I don't, but that's just me. So long as you're careful I'd leave the prop on. That way you can hand turn the prop, testing that it won't spin in either forward or reverse gear. It also helps to have prop on when reinstalling lower unit just in case you need to turn drive shaft to align with crankshaft.","cooperfly said: + + + + My plan was to put motor in forward gear, remove the 4 bolts and looks like I need to remove the anode also and there looks to be a bolt there also. Drop lower unit and then remove the impeller housing. Pull old impeller and put new one on. Replace the housing and reverse order all the bolts. + +I have thought about a manual also - I believe the motor is a 2008 + +thanks for replies + +Click to expand... + + +Here is a link that directs you to the service manual for your engine, 2008 40TLR: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...aha-shop-manuals/227-2008-yamaha-40c-50c/file + +The manual will state to remove prop before dropping lower unit. I don't, but that's just me. So long as you're careful I'd leave the prop on. That way you can hand turn the prop, testing that it won't spin in either forward or reverse gear. It also helps to have prop on when reinstalling lower unit just in case you need to turn drive shaft to align with crankshaft.","Ground strap should be connected to the stern bracket. Do they show you where to attach a ground strap on the steering cylinder? + +The only reason an anode will not work is that it is not in good contact with the stern bracket or the engine mount itself." +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","rmmu said: + + + + Question to Racerone and/or Classicaq (obviously guys with great expertise) about the above procedure. I am just a weekend boater learning how to service my outboard, but have informally heard that it is convenient to put the outboard into gear before dropping the lower leg. + + +The reason stated was that, when you re-install the lower leg and push the drive shaft back up, it's splines have to mesh with the female splines in the top unit. If they are slightly off, the shaft won't go up, so if the unit was left in gear, it is convenient to just jiggle the prop while pushing up and the splines would mesh. + + +Is there any merit in that approach, or alternatively, any disadvantage? + +Click to expand... + + +Definitely has merit. But just the same, if the LU is in neutral gear when reinstalling and you encounter the same problem you'd only need to very slightly angle the LU to find the groove. Once you've done this, push LU up while moving back to center line. 6--Half dozen....both methods give you the same result. Some have better success dropping in gear, others in neutral.","rmmu said: + + + + Question to Racerone and/or Classicaq (obviously guys with great expertise) about the above procedure. I am just a weekend boater learning how to service my outboard, but have informally heard that it is convenient to put the outboard into gear before dropping the lower leg. + + +The reason stated was that, when you re-install the lower leg and push the drive shaft back up, it's splines have to mesh with the female splines in the top unit. If they are slightly off, the shaft won't go up, so if the unit was left in gear, it is convenient to just jiggle the prop while pushing up and the splines would mesh. + + +Is there any merit in that approach, or alternatively, any disadvantage? + +Click to expand... + + +Definitely has merit. But just the same, if the LU is in neutral gear when reinstalling and you encounter the same problem you'd only need to very slightly angle the LU to find the groove. Once you've done this, push LU up while moving back to center line. 6--Half dozen....both methods give you the same result. Some have better success dropping in gear, others in neutral.","Section B is a tad under 1 ¾” + +Section D is a tad over 1” + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Ya gotta match sections B, 'n C, to the weight ratin' ya want,.... section D will work out by itself,...." +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","Thanks for info and help, could not get link to work","Thanks for info and help, could not get link to work","Justintime- + +Assume no spark as it would be difficult to check. Coil? I am trying to go ahead and replace what may be the problem as diagnostics do not seem to have been able to find an issue. + +Thanks" +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","cooperfly said: + + + + Thanks for info and help, could not get link to work + +Click to expand... + + +Mmm, works for me. Go to vansoutboardparts.com. Bottom of page click on service manuals. Right side of page click on yamaha service manuals. Click on your engine year. Click on 40C.","cooperfly said: + + + + Thanks for info and help, could not get link to work + +Click to expand... + + +Mmm, works for me. Go to vansoutboardparts.com. Bottom of page click on service manuals. Right side of page click on yamaha service manuals. Click on your engine year. Click on 40C.","I have 3 of them. My experience is that these problems +are almost always fuel related. Good luck." +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Definitely has merit. But just the same, if the LU is in neutral gear when reinstalling and you encounter the same problem you'd only need to very slightly angle the LU to find the groove. Once you've done this, push LU up while moving back to center line. 6--Half dozen....both methods give you the same result. Some have better success dropping in gear, others in neutral. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you, ClassicAQ, for your detailed answer.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Definitely has merit. But just the same, if the LU is in neutral gear when reinstalling and you encounter the same problem you'd only need to very slightly angle the LU to find the groove. Once you've done this, push LU up while moving back to center line. 6--Half dozen....both methods give you the same result. Some have better success dropping in gear, others in neutral. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you, ClassicAQ, for your detailed answer.","Fixed it! + +For those who ever have the same problem, this is what happened. Someone set the linkage ""Stopper"" so that the control arm went all the way forward. This caused the linkage to the CDI to pull way too far, all the way to the left side in that picture. I adjusted the stopper so that the linkage to the CDI stopped at the II marker even when I go WOT. I saw someone a picture of someone else's engine and it looked like how mine is set now. + +Got back out of the water, and she blew past the 2300 RPMs barrier that kept bogging the engine down. I couldn't find much info on the CDI and how the linkage worked so I don't fully understand what is happening when you go past the II marker. It sounds like it goes into some kind of safety mode but still could occasionally get up to 4000 RPM. I don't know, but what I do know is that now it goes to recommended RPM and I'm happy about it." +"I have a Yamaha 40 hp 40TLR 6H4K L - looking to change impeller for the first time. I have the impeller purchased looking for any instructions or advice on procedure. I have searched and watched a view videos and talked to Marina. They suggested putting motor in forward gear before I drop the lower unit + +thanks for any info or links","I bought a manual, it does mention to slightly spin prop if needed to align the spline. It does suggest using Loctite 572 or 567 - or permatex 14A on the bolts for the housing and lower unit. + +I am just changing impeller unless I find other issues. + +any opinions I will take, about to take the plunge","I bought a manual, it does mention to slightly spin prop if needed to align the spline. It does suggest using Loctite 572 or 567 - or permatex 14A on the bolts for the housing and lower unit. + +I am just changing impeller unless I find other issues. + +any opinions I will take, about to take the plunge","Yes speedi sleeves are great for saving old stuff. Used on a few occasions on some of my Land Rovers over the years. Comes with installation tool and you just whack it into place with a hammer. No special tools or training! Use a micrometer to measure across the seal race on the spindle. I'm sure it will be a very common size. That's the critical measurement for the speedi sleeve. You can order online, at a machine shop, or even NAPA. +The hub is the only thing that spins. The inner part of the bearing is stationary: it fits on to the spindle., and the outer part fits into the hub. The rollers of the bearing ride between the outer and inner portion of the bearing. The seal fits in the hub after you insert the roller (with LOTS of grease) into the hubrace. The seal keeps the grease inside the hub. mostly. +Once you get this back together, adjust the spindle nut until there is no more wiggle in the hub, then back off the nut a half turn. You need to leave the adjustment just a eensy bit loose so that when the hub heats up, the parts expand a bit and the adjustment is spot on." +Anyone had this issue ? The engine will only start cold if I use starter fluid or starts faster if I put my finger over ISC valve after it starts it runs and starts fine all day the next morning it won't start. I replaced the ISC valve didn't help I have purchased Yamaha software all test show normal when running my #1 code 29 intake pressure sensor #2 code 13 pulser coil #3 code 23 intake temp sensor . I just wondered if anyone else has had this and what was the outcome sensors or computer?,"Carefully inspect the wiring to the ISC valve connector checking for any kinks, chafing, breakage or other damage. Make sure that all of the wires are properly connected to the connection pins or sockets. What do you see?","Carefully inspect the wiring to the ISC valve connector checking for any kinks, chafing, breakage or other damage. Make sure that all of the wires are properly connected to the connection pins or sockets. What do you see?",You can and you need to change the shift cable position in the control box... and get a RH prop. +Anyone had this issue ? The engine will only start cold if I use starter fluid or starts faster if I put my finger over ISC valve after it starts it runs and starts fine all day the next morning it won't start. I replaced the ISC valve didn't help I have purchased Yamaha software all test show normal when running my #1 code 29 intake pressure sensor #2 code 13 pulser coil #3 code 23 intake temp sensor . I just wondered if anyone else has had this and what was the outcome sensors or computer?,"psp1 said: + + + + Anyone had this issue ? The engine will only start cold if I use starter fluid or starts faster if I put my finger over ISC valve after it starts it runs and starts fine all day the next morning it won't start. I replaced the ISC valve didn't help I have purchased Yamaha software all test show normal when running my #1 code 29 intake pressure sensor #2 code 13 pulser coil #3 code 23 intake temp sensor . I just wondered if anyone else has had this and what was the outcome sensors or computer? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks I will check it again a little closer after work today","psp1 said: + + + + Anyone had this issue ? The engine will only start cold if I use starter fluid or starts faster if I put my finger over ISC valve after it starts it runs and starts fine all day the next morning it won't start. I replaced the ISC valve didn't help I have purchased Yamaha software all test show normal when running my #1 code 29 intake pressure sensor #2 code 13 pulser coil #3 code 23 intake temp sensor . I just wondered if anyone else has had this and what was the outcome sensors or computer? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks I will check it again a little closer after work today","Thanks for the response. I apologize for not responding sooner. I pulled the intake manifold unit off, not that tough of a job, disassemble the VST tank, checked the filter on the bottom of the pump motor, some debree, but nothing that would restrick the fuel flow. Pulled spark plugs to see if any were gas fouled. All were dry which indicates none of the injectors are leaking. Checked the inline filter that goes from the fuel pump assy to the VST tank, clear. Made sure all fuel lines are clear. Checked the pickup in the fuel tank, not clogged. I've changed all the other filters. No difference in motor performance. Now looking at some of the parts diagrams on line I notice a couple of other parts that I think maybe causing a problem. After pulling up some parts websites I notice there is a Pressure regulator. It is under the FUEL INJECTION NOZZLE category item # 9. Then looking under the FUEL 1 category #14, fuel pump assy, there are two diaphrams. And then under the INTAKE 2 category, #13 is a filter assy that mounts under the fuel control valve assy. Could someone tell me if they have experience any problems with these items? I would appreciate any help. +Thanks" +Anyone had this issue ? The engine will only start cold if I use starter fluid or starts faster if I put my finger over ISC valve after it starts it runs and starts fine all day the next morning it won't start. I replaced the ISC valve didn't help I have purchased Yamaha software all test show normal when running my #1 code 29 intake pressure sensor #2 code 13 pulser coil #3 code 23 intake temp sensor . I just wondered if anyone else has had this and what was the outcome sensors or computer?,"psp1 said: + + + + Thanks I will check it again a little closer after work today + +Click to expand... + + +Hi boscoe the wires and connections look good and tight when I run a stationary test on the ISC valve I can hear it operating. ? with key in push start position cranking over does it suppose to close ISC valve or is it only controlled by the sensors ?","psp1 said: + + + + Thanks I will check it again a little closer after work today + +Click to expand... + + +Hi boscoe the wires and connections look good and tight when I run a stationary test on the ISC valve I can hear it operating. ? with key in push start position cranking over does it suppose to close ISC valve or is it only controlled by the sensors ?","You can find detergent to clean it. You can see there are many consultants using different detergents. Consider which one suits the boat and of course for your own money. +I often delve into the types of products I'm going to use. Spending time searching for information about the product will make you feel much more secure. I found a sharing place about the cleaners of the boats very well. You can take the time and search for it" +"I have owned my boat for about a year. My motor is a 1998 C150 Yamaha. The previous owner did not have a fuel water seperator on the boat. I plan on adding one. I also plan on changing the spark plugs and installing a new fuel line. I have already installed a new impeller. I have only had the issue I am about to explain happen to me on 2 trips so far. All other trips the motor has ran great. Here is what I am experiencing: + +I can go out on my boat all day and have no issues. Then out of the blue when I try to put a decent load on the motor the motor begins to shake. If I back out of the throttle the issue goes away. This repeats for a few minutes then out of no where it seems like the motor corrects itself and I am able to continue on my way with normal operation of the motor. + +Here is a video of what the motor is doing: https://youtu.be/pKwCiOKOztM + +Does anyone have any clue on what may be causing this issue?",Make sure it is getting to running temp on both cylinder heads.,Make sure it is getting to running temp on both cylinder heads.,"Ayuh,.... That helm is for a dual cable system for high power hot rod boats,.... + +For what yer tryin' to do, maybe call Teli-flex or whatever manufacturers you can find,... +It's gonna be a full blown Custom system for sure,... +Maybe consider goin' full Hydraulic steerin',..??..??" +"I have owned my boat for about a year. My motor is a 1998 C150 Yamaha. The previous owner did not have a fuel water seperator on the boat. I plan on adding one. I also plan on changing the spark plugs and installing a new fuel line. I have already installed a new impeller. I have only had the issue I am about to explain happen to me on 2 trips so far. All other trips the motor has ran great. Here is what I am experiencing: + +I can go out on my boat all day and have no issues. Then out of the blue when I try to put a decent load on the motor the motor begins to shake. If I back out of the throttle the issue goes away. This repeats for a few minutes then out of no where it seems like the motor corrects itself and I am able to continue on my way with normal operation of the motor. + +Here is a video of what the motor is doing: https://youtu.be/pKwCiOKOztM + +Does anyone have any clue on what may be causing this issue?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Make sure it is getting to running temp on both cylinder heads. + +Click to expand... + + +I will check on this. I believe it is though. I have ran my boat at higher throttle for 3 miles. Then out of nowhere this issue pops up. Wait a few minutes at lower throttle and the issue resolves itself and I can run full throttle if I want. + +The issue has only happened on 2 of my trips. Every other trip I have been on I was able to run full throttle and higher engine loads without this issue happening. + +Since the issue is intermittent and isn't frequent I am hoping its just a fuel issue. The fuel I get is marine grade fuel not sure of the octane. I premix my oil to a 50:1 ratio. I am hoping it is just some gunk being knocked loose as the motor gets more use than the prior owner gave it. Prior owner stated the boat sat for some time and wasn't getting used often.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Make sure it is getting to running temp on both cylinder heads. + +Click to expand... + + +I will check on this. I believe it is though. I have ran my boat at higher throttle for 3 miles. Then out of nowhere this issue pops up. Wait a few minutes at lower throttle and the issue resolves itself and I can run full throttle if I want. + +The issue has only happened on 2 of my trips. Every other trip I have been on I was able to run full throttle and higher engine loads without this issue happening. + +Since the issue is intermittent and isn't frequent I am hoping its just a fuel issue. The fuel I get is marine grade fuel not sure of the octane. I premix my oil to a 50:1 ratio. I am hoping it is just some gunk being knocked loose as the motor gets more use than the prior owner gave it. Prior owner stated the boat sat for some time and wasn't getting used often.","Yeah...that's right...just sand away the original design and pinstripes and repaint the panels ""glossy white"". Rustoleum makes a ""Topside paint"" that I'd like to +try for the blue color panel. + + Thanks!" +"I have owned my boat for about a year. My motor is a 1998 C150 Yamaha. The previous owner did not have a fuel water seperator on the boat. I plan on adding one. I also plan on changing the spark plugs and installing a new fuel line. I have already installed a new impeller. I have only had the issue I am about to explain happen to me on 2 trips so far. All other trips the motor has ran great. Here is what I am experiencing: + +I can go out on my boat all day and have no issues. Then out of the blue when I try to put a decent load on the motor the motor begins to shake. If I back out of the throttle the issue goes away. This repeats for a few minutes then out of no where it seems like the motor corrects itself and I am able to continue on my way with normal operation of the motor. + +Here is a video of what the motor is doing: https://youtu.be/pKwCiOKOztM + +Does anyone have any clue on what may be causing this issue?","The reason you are checking running temps.... +If the cylinders and heads are not reaching operating temps it will condensate water in the combustion chamber and short the spark for ignition. The condensate then evaporates and the engine runs fine. + +Run the engine hard, wot, stop the boat and shut off the engine immediately and check the temp of the engine. + +You will want to check this first before you do anything else.","The reason you are checking running temps.... +If the cylinders and heads are not reaching operating temps it will condensate water in the combustion chamber and short the spark for ignition. The condensate then evaporates and the engine runs fine. + +Run the engine hard, wot, stop the boat and shut off the engine immediately and check the temp of the engine. + +You will want to check this first before you do anything else.","oh now I just gotta find the serial number for it it has been painted a few times trou the years but I need to find them to licence it before I move,Wisconsin dont require a license for a 19 ft. and under but the states going to Connecticut is un forsure and I do not need a ticket! The gas prices are bad enuff! LOL" +"I have owned my boat for about a year. My motor is a 1998 C150 Yamaha. The previous owner did not have a fuel water seperator on the boat. I plan on adding one. I also plan on changing the spark plugs and installing a new fuel line. I have already installed a new impeller. I have only had the issue I am about to explain happen to me on 2 trips so far. All other trips the motor has ran great. Here is what I am experiencing: + +I can go out on my boat all day and have no issues. Then out of the blue when I try to put a decent load on the motor the motor begins to shake. If I back out of the throttle the issue goes away. This repeats for a few minutes then out of no where it seems like the motor corrects itself and I am able to continue on my way with normal operation of the motor. + +Here is a video of what the motor is doing: https://youtu.be/pKwCiOKOztM + +Does anyone have any clue on what may be causing this issue?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + The reason you are checking running temps.... +If the cylinders and heads are not reaching operating temps it will condensate water in the combustion chamber and short the spark for ignition. The condensate then evaporates and the engine runs fine. + +Run the engine hard, wot, stop the boat and shut off the engine immediately and check the temp of the engine. + +You will want to check this first before you do anything else. + +Click to expand... + + +I will check this the next time I am out. Should I just check the temperature around where the spark plug is going into the chamber? + +Also, I will be replacing my spark plugs this weekend after decarbing the motor. I will have a close look at those too.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + The reason you are checking running temps.... +If the cylinders and heads are not reaching operating temps it will condensate water in the combustion chamber and short the spark for ignition. The condensate then evaporates and the engine runs fine. + +Run the engine hard, wot, stop the boat and shut off the engine immediately and check the temp of the engine. + +You will want to check this first before you do anything else. + +Click to expand... + + +I will check this the next time I am out. Should I just check the temperature around where the spark plug is going into the chamber? + +Also, I will be replacing my spark plugs this weekend after decarbing the motor. I will have a close look at those too.","I had a similar problem on my 1999 Sx150TXRX. Once I hit around 40 mph the alarm would sound. Water pump and thermostats were all good, engine was mounted correctly also. + +My motor is a saltwater motor and I bought it in Florida where it was used often. + +The problem was; the water passages had a lot of saltwater buildup, scaly so to speak. I used vinegar and water, I sprayed it, let it soak a bit, then scraped it off with a scraper and wire brush. Fixed the problem! + +Take the outer cover (cooling covers) off your cylinder heads and check for buildup. You will need new gaskets for the covers." +"I have owned my boat for about a year. My motor is a 1998 C150 Yamaha. The previous owner did not have a fuel water seperator on the boat. I plan on adding one. I also plan on changing the spark plugs and installing a new fuel line. I have already installed a new impeller. I have only had the issue I am about to explain happen to me on 2 trips so far. All other trips the motor has ran great. Here is what I am experiencing: + +I can go out on my boat all day and have no issues. Then out of the blue when I try to put a decent load on the motor the motor begins to shake. If I back out of the throttle the issue goes away. This repeats for a few minutes then out of no where it seems like the motor corrects itself and I am able to continue on my way with normal operation of the motor. + +Here is a video of what the motor is doing: https://youtu.be/pKwCiOKOztM + +Does anyone have any clue on what may be causing this issue?",Make sure there is no varnish in the carburetors !----Plugged carburetor can now starve a cylinder of fuel AND OIL .----Also run with a timing light to see if there are ignition issues.,Make sure there is no varnish in the carburetors !----Plugged carburetor can now starve a cylinder of fuel AND OIL .----Also run with a timing light to see if there are ignition issues.,"Thanks for the tip! I'm fairly new to this boat but I think it's a mercruiser. Its a 1988 celebrity boat. It's definitely a mercury. Not sure if the cruiser part is a specific model, if that doesn't sound too dumb. The only filters I can find are in the fuel pump and side of carb. There is no water/fuel seperater but will be installing one. It was purring like a kitten but stalled and backfired under throttle. Any ideas on where to get a shop manual for a decent price?" +"I was given a few motors to part out. My question is would you part them out via forums and social media (facebook marketplace, craigslist, etc.), or just start removing parts and putting them on ebay?","No worries, sold the lot all together to someone with enough time to mess with it.","No worries, sold the lot all together to someone with enough time to mess with it.","If you live near a large city, the best bet is to visit one of the spring shops in the city...it is highly likely they can set you up with everything you need to get it back on the road... + +Another option is to call Continental directly." +"I was given a few motors to part out. My question is would you part them out via forums and social media (facebook marketplace, craigslist, etc.), or just start removing parts and putting them on ebay?","Hello! + +I have got a Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke motor. I will attach a picture about the part that i need but i dont know the name of this thing. Can you tell me the name of this part? Or can you give me a link about it? This part is made from plastic and b'cuz of that its broken. + +Much appreciate! + +With kind regards, +aztech56","Hello! + +I have got a Yamaha 9.9 4 stroke motor. I will attach a picture about the part that i need but i dont know the name of this thing. Can you tell me the name of this part? Or can you give me a link about it? This part is made from plastic and b'cuz of that its broken. + +Much appreciate! + +With kind regards, +aztech56",I did adjusts the motors by the mounting bracket and had no RPM increase. +"I was given a few motors to part out. My question is would you part them out via forums and social media (facebook marketplace, craigslist, etc.), or just start removing parts and putting them on ebay?",This is also the part i need but its in a kinda good condition.,This is also the part i need but its in a kinda good condition., +"I was given a few motors to part out. My question is would you part them out via forums and social media (facebook marketplace, craigslist, etc.), or just start removing parts and putting them on ebay?","I am not familiar with your specific motor, but what I have done in a similar situation is use the Menu at the top of the MarineEngine.com home page. Navigate to ""Engine Parts"", then select ""Yamaha Outboard Parts"" and then put in your motor Model Number. You can then view very useful parts diagrams which will give you the name and Part# for all parts. + +By the looks of it, your plastic bit may be part of the carburetor, if so, select the ""Fuel System"" or ""Carburetor"" diagram to see whether you can find it.","I am not familiar with your specific motor, but what I have done in a similar situation is use the Menu at the top of the MarineEngine.com home page. Navigate to ""Engine Parts"", then select ""Yamaha Outboard Parts"" and then put in your motor Model Number. You can then view very useful parts diagrams which will give you the name and Part# for all parts. + +By the looks of it, your plastic bit may be part of the carburetor, if so, select the ""Fuel System"" or ""Carburetor"" diagram to see whether you can find it.","racerone said: + + + + In my opinion the starter should be taken apart for inspection.----Likely that solenoid was NOT the problem.----Inspect the starter , do not rush out and buy a new one. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the reply. What should I be looking for when inspecting the starter? I don't think the solenoid was bad either, but it definitely became fried in the cranking process. Won't even produce one volt to starter side post with ignition." +late 80s 3 cyl. loses gas from carbs when motor is trimmed most or all the way up. is this an easy fix ?,"Sounds like a bad needle and seat inside of carb. Carbs need to be removed,cleaned thoroughly and rebuilt","Sounds like a bad needle and seat inside of carb. Carbs need to be removed,cleaned thoroughly and rebuilt","Vire 12 boat engine sports Dynastart, example: https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/MTE5NVgxNjAw/z/iDsAAOSwAy5atSMN/$/Dynastart-NEW-dynostart-bosch-fits-Vire-6-7-12-_1.jpg + +Yeah, I'm measuring resistance. My electrics knowledge are so much limited, that in my world ""if there's no resistance between two nodes, they are in same potential""... + +As I mentioned, nothing is connected." +late 80s 3 cyl. loses gas from carbs when motor is trimmed most or all the way up. is this an easy fix ?,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Sounds like a bad needle and seat inside of carb. Carbs need to be removed,cleaned thoroughly and rebuilt + +Click to expand... + +thanks. i will give that a try","johnnygjr said: + + + + Sounds like a bad needle and seat inside of carb. Carbs need to be removed,cleaned thoroughly and rebuilt + +Click to expand... + +thanks. i will give that a try","View attachment 20212 +Found a problem in the bottom carburetor. The pilot jet tube has a big crack. + +I removed the carb to check it out. Tried soldering the crack but the solder wouldn't stick and I made it much worse as you can see + +View attachment 20213 + +I bought a brass tube at my local hobby store and tried to copy it. Couldn't really get the exact same diameter but got a close one, the tube is only a little thicker. Drilled out a bit on one end so the jet screw would fit but I couldn't replicate the holes at the bottom like the original because I don't have a table drill... The thing is I also can't figure out what they are for because they end up inside the carb wall as explained below: + + +Now I tried running the engine with the new made pilot and the cilinder fired in idle! So my guess is I did well. The only downside is that the engine is stuttering now when I let go of the throttle after revving up. (It's probably because the engine is now running on 2 cilinders and is out of sync or something) + +Could that be because I didn't replicate the tiny holes? Also tried and tested each cilinder individual and I was able to run on the bottom cilinder only but it's having a hard time. Have to give it more gas, but too much gas will stall the engine while running on the top one only allows me to throttle it up just fine. + +I tried playing with the air mixture screws but I also can't find that sweet spot." +I have a 1998 20 foot Duracraft Explorer boat with a 1998 Johnson 115 hp Fast Track motor on it. I also have a 2005 Yamaha 90 hp 4 stroke motor that I want to put on this boat. This is kind of a heavy boat. I was looking for advice on difference this motor will make.,"If I'm not mistaken that's a flat bottom aluminum hull, yes? If so, unless you're loading it with a heck of a lot of gear it's a light hull, compared to a fiber hull of same length. Obviously decreasing HP you'll decrease speed. But unlike V-hulls, a flat bottom doesn't need to ""get on plane"", which would be a concern with decreasing HP with a loaded down 20' ft fiber hull. So if you're ok with less speed, I don't forsee a drop in 25hp being a cause for performance issues. Also, I reckon the johnson 115 is a 2 stroke. If so you'll notice a difference in low end power with the 4 stroke, which notoriously have less than low end than 2 strokes.","If I'm not mistaken that's a flat bottom aluminum hull, yes? If so, unless you're loading it with a heck of a lot of gear it's a light hull, compared to a fiber hull of same length. Obviously decreasing HP you'll decrease speed. But unlike V-hulls, a flat bottom doesn't need to ""get on plane"", which would be a concern with decreasing HP with a loaded down 20' ft fiber hull. So if you're ok with less speed, I don't forsee a drop in 25hp being a cause for performance issues. Also, I reckon the johnson 115 is a 2 stroke. If so you'll notice a difference in low end power with the 4 stroke, which notoriously have less than low end than 2 strokes.","Check your fuel pressure against Yamaha’s specifications. If your fuel pressure is factory spec. that would rule out the high pressure fuel pump. When you had the VST off did you check the float level against Yamaha spec.? Fuel filter blockage? Fuel lines in tip top condition, no kinks or bends, clamps tight and not sucking air? Fuel tank vent is venting? You mentioned you checked the vent line but it can’t hurt to recheck. What is your primer bulb doing just before it stalls? I don’t own a Yamaha, I’m just tossing ideas out there to see if anything sticks." +I have a 1998 20 foot Duracraft Explorer boat with a 1998 Johnson 115 hp Fast Track motor on it. I also have a 2005 Yamaha 90 hp 4 stroke motor that I want to put on this boat. This is kind of a heavy boat. I was looking for advice on difference this motor will make.,Yes I would say it is a flat bottom boat with a semi-v front. At 5000 rpms with 3 adults and 1-8 year old it was going 40 mph according to gps. That is faster than I want to go. Just double guessing myself about 90 hp.,Yes I would say it is a flat bottom boat with a semi-v front. At 5000 rpms with 3 adults and 1-8 year old it was going 40 mph according to gps. That is faster than I want to go. Just double guessing myself about 90 hp.,"Those old Evinrudes will run forever if you maintain them and run them a lot. Agree with all of the above, especially getting the repair manual and checking for cracked coils. Once running, I highly recommend that you decarb the engine with Sea Foam or similar. That will often times make them run like new." +I have a 1998 20 foot Duracraft Explorer boat with a 1998 Johnson 115 hp Fast Track motor on it. I also have a 2005 Yamaha 90 hp 4 stroke motor that I want to put on this boat. This is kind of a heavy boat. I was looking for advice on difference this motor will make.,"Well suffice it to say, changing engines for the only purpose of not having the ability to go as fast seems a bit peculiar. Unless there are other reasons to decrease hp that you haven't stated.","Well suffice it to say, changing engines for the only purpose of not having the ability to go as fast seems a bit peculiar. Unless there are other reasons to decrease hp that you haven't stated.","Hi Len. That part is called a bow sprit. It is probably made of fiberglass reenforced plastic (FRP). Yes, it can be repaired. Anything fiberglass can be repaired. The thing is, that given the stresses it has to endure, it will probably just break again, You see how thick it was made, then just bolted to the thin deck. The tail portion is flexing there where it contacts the deck. That repeated stress is why it broke. That and the bolt holes thru the thinnest part. +If it were me, I would remove the thing, grind out the crack from behind, fill with a paste of epoxy thickened with fiberglass chopped strand and refinish with sanding and new paint. +To make this less prone to cracking, I suggest that you make a stainless steel plate to go under those rear bolt heads to sort of sandwich the thing to the hull. Also be sure that there's a corresponding backing plate underneath either plywood or steel. This might mean longer bolts. +I hope that the little round port in the winch locker isn't the only access to those nuts up front there. +Hope this helps." +I have a 1998 20 foot Duracraft Explorer boat with a 1998 Johnson 115 hp Fast Track motor on it. I also have a 2005 Yamaha 90 hp 4 stroke motor that I want to put on this boat. This is kind of a heavy boat. I was looking for advice on difference this motor will make.,"I already have the 90 hp Yamaha on a 16 foot homemade alum. boat, and is too much weight. The 115 hp Johnson 2 stroke is kind of loud and uses a good bit of gas. Usually like to just ride around quite a bit at lower speeds and just thinking about 90 hp 4 stroke being under a load of 20 foot boat and people in boat. I am thinking about power of 2 stroke compared to 4 stroke with less hp. I think I am over thinking this.","I already have the 90 hp Yamaha on a 16 foot homemade alum. boat, and is too much weight. The 115 hp Johnson 2 stroke is kind of loud and uses a good bit of gas. Usually like to just ride around quite a bit at lower speeds and just thinking about 90 hp 4 stroke being under a load of 20 foot boat and people in boat. I am thinking about power of 2 stroke compared to 4 stroke with less hp. I think I am over thinking this.",Do a thorough diagnostic of the motor first off. Are you saying the controls are not present or just not connected? The steering is straight forward do the research on how to measure the cable and get a teleflex rotary non feedback system if you have the room under the dash. You can get a good used control box on ebay with the correct harness does it have power tilt trim? As long as the engine has good compression of at least 120psi and even everything else can be worked out easy enough. Drain the gearbox and see if any metal shavings are in the oil. You should be able to start it by jumping the starter motor same with checking compression. The steering is universal but make sure the engine is serviceable before spending any money on it. +I have a 1998 20 foot Duracraft Explorer boat with a 1998 Johnson 115 hp Fast Track motor on it. I also have a 2005 Yamaha 90 hp 4 stroke motor that I want to put on this boat. This is kind of a heavy boat. I was looking for advice on difference this motor will make.,"Ah, now I gotcha. No worries, we all have a tendency to over-analyze at times. No doubt the 2 stroke is louder, I have a 2 stroke 115hp myself. I think changing to the 4 stroke will accomplish all that you have outlined as the reasons for changing. Good luck.","Ah, now I gotcha. No worries, we all have a tendency to over-analyze at times. No doubt the 2 stroke is louder, I have a 2 stroke 115hp myself. I think changing to the 4 stroke will accomplish all that you have outlined as the reasons for changing. Good luck.",2017 f25 lwtc +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?",Time to pull the injectors and have them cleaned.,Time to pull the injectors and have them cleaned.,How old are the fuel lines? You maybe getting air in the system somewhere. Or fuel tank not venting enough. Just a couple of thoughts. I’m no technician but there are some good ones on here. +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?","Have you checked for corrosion in the exhaust system. Not so common in the F150's, but common in the F225 and F200's. A rough idle is often one of the early symptoms of this free Yamaha 'feature'.","Have you checked for corrosion in the exhaust system. Not so common in the F150's, but common in the F225 and F200's. A rough idle is often one of the early symptoms of this free Yamaha 'feature'.",What make of trailer is it ?. It really doesn't matter on some trailers. +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?","On the hard start when warm problem, the 04 and 05 F150s have a starting when warm problem that Yamaha put a bulletin and ""fix"" on, but only if the owner brought it in. The repair was covered under warranty, so now it won't be covered any more. I have a copy of the bulletin that I can send if you pm an email to send it to.","On the hard start when warm problem, the 04 and 05 F150s have a starting when warm problem that Yamaha put a bulletin and ""fix"" on, but only if the owner brought it in. The repair was covered under warranty, so now it won't be covered any more. I have a copy of the bulletin that I can send if you pm an email to send it to.","Once you get to the the parts catalogs, open each similar illustration for each model. F80 to F100. + +Using the illustration labeled ""Intake"", see below what is to be seen. No changes whatsoever between the F80 and the F100. + +Now in some illustrations you will find different part numbers. The illustrations labeled as ""carburetor 1"" for example. + +Remove the F80 peculiar part numbers and install the F100 peculiar part numbers." +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?","You were right, had the injectors cleaned and it runs like new. + + +Thanks, +Butch","You were right, had the injectors cleaned and it runs like new. + + +Thanks, +Butch","He said it had corrision and a bad ground wire. He repaired and cleaned the inside and painted the outside and tested. 45 bucks. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... Over crankin' don't cause Corrosion,... + +Water Does..." +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?",Glad to hear.,Glad to hear.,"Thanks for all your help. I wi + +Thanks for all your help. I will do as you suggest and check with a factory source." +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?",Would you still have a copy of this bulletin you could send me at [email protected]???? Thank you.,Would you still have a copy of this bulletin you could send me at [email protected]???? Thank you.,"Thanks for the response Scott. Miracurously, we found one near our home." +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?","dward said: + + + + On the hard start when warm problem, the 04 and 05 F150s have a starting when warm problem that Yamaha put a bulletin and ""fix"" on, but only if the owner brought it in. The repair was covered under warranty, so now it won't be covered any more. I have a copy of the bulletin that I can send if you pm an email to send it to. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi dward, I am having a ""warm start"" problem on my almost new Yamaha F30B (4 stroke). If you still have that bulletin, I would appreciate a copy as it might just point me in the right direction. Thanks [email protected]","dward said: + + + + On the hard start when warm problem, the 04 and 05 F150s have a starting when warm problem that Yamaha put a bulletin and ""fix"" on, but only if the owner brought it in. The repair was covered under warranty, so now it won't be covered any more. I have a copy of the bulletin that I can send if you pm an email to send it to. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi dward, I am having a ""warm start"" problem on my almost new Yamaha F30B (4 stroke). If you still have that bulletin, I would appreciate a copy as it might just point me in the right direction. Thanks [email protected]","[email protected] said: + + + + cani take mt force 50hp motor and put it another boat and not have to replace steering and throttle cables? + +Click to expand... + +thanks a million I'm new to the world of boating, so get ready I'll be asking alot of questions." +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?","Having 'hard to start when hot issue' with my 2004 F150 - runs great, idles great, starts great when cold, have to crack throttle to start when hot and it sounds like it's flooded (starts rough, like fouled plugs) Can you send me the link to the bulletin? Thanks! [email protected]","Having 'hard to start when hot issue' with my 2004 F150 - runs great, idles great, starts great when cold, have to crack throttle to start when hot and it sounds like it's flooded (starts rough, like fouled plugs) Can you send me the link to the bulletin? Thanks! [email protected]","""Christopher +Glad you finally + +""Christopher +Glad you finally got that engine going. If you don't have one, I highly recommend a 10-micron fuel/water separator filter to prevent/lessen future problems. I use one that has the clear bowl on the bottom so you can see if any water is accumulating. +I have seen those jets plugged so bad they had to use a ultrasonic cleaner to get them cleared. +Good luck and happy boating + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +Gary""" +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?","rstamp said: + + + + Having 'hard to start when hot issue' with my 2004 F150 - runs great, idles great, starts great when cold, have to crack throttle to start when hot and it sounds like it's flooded (starts rough, like fouled plugs) Can you send me the link to the bulletin? Thanks! [email protected] + +Click to expand... + + +Hi rstamp, +I do not have the bulletin but here is what i ""learned"" until I got it fixed. +When you shut the engine off, the fuel in the fuel line gets heated up by the warm engine and starts to vaporise. When you come to re-start the engine the fuel pump is not strong enough to pump the vaporised fuel. +In my case (which was a 30HP Yamaha), they recognised the problem and had issued a re-call and fix under warranty. What they did was fit a stronger fuel pump that overcame the problem. +So, I suggest you go back to your dealer and ask if there is a re-call on your model for this problem. +In the meantime, when you arrive at your chosen ""spot"" with the engine warm, try idling for at least 5 mins before you shut the engine off. This should, in theory, allow the engine to cool enough so that the problem is less likely to show up. + +Hope this helps..... but I notice some other ""dudes"" on this thread say they have the bulletin so try asking them for a copy. + +Good luck, +Jim +Nairn, Scotland","rstamp said: + + + + Having 'hard to start when hot issue' with my 2004 F150 - runs great, idles great, starts great when cold, have to crack throttle to start when hot and it sounds like it's flooded (starts rough, like fouled plugs) Can you send me the link to the bulletin? Thanks! [email protected] + +Click to expand... + + +Hi rstamp, +I do not have the bulletin but here is what i ""learned"" until I got it fixed. +When you shut the engine off, the fuel in the fuel line gets heated up by the warm engine and starts to vaporise. When you come to re-start the engine the fuel pump is not strong enough to pump the vaporised fuel. +In my case (which was a 30HP Yamaha), they recognised the problem and had issued a re-call and fix under warranty. What they did was fit a stronger fuel pump that overcame the problem. +So, I suggest you go back to your dealer and ask if there is a re-call on your model for this problem. +In the meantime, when you arrive at your chosen ""spot"" with the engine warm, try idling for at least 5 mins before you shut the engine off. This should, in theory, allow the engine to cool enough so that the problem is less likely to show up. + +Hope this helps..... but I notice some other ""dudes"" on this thread say they have the bulletin so try asking them for a copy. + +Good luck, +Jim +Nairn, Scotland",i am running the same motor....exactly where was the wire?.....tyty +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?",I have a 05 150 4 stroke that is hard to start after warm. Everything else is fine. Could you please send me a copy of the bulletin. Thanks for your help.,I have a 05 150 4 stroke that is hard to start after warm. Everything else is fine. Could you please send me a copy of the bulletin. Thanks for your help.,"It is not abnormal for one cylinder to be hotter or colder than another cylinder or for one bank of cylinders to be hotter or colder than another bank cylinders. I know the answer you're looking for is WHY, but this is all I can offer. + +Also, how are you getting the temp? Sender? When you get into temp problems it's best to check temps with a laser temp gun. Senders and gauges have an ""allowable"" factory tolerance. + +Despite your motor being a freshwater outboard and regularly flushed, water passages can still become corroded over time. Fresh water lakes/rivers have microbes, bacteria. Like salt, over time corrosion can occur with a freshwater outboard. Lastly, if you've got the time and are comfortable removing head bolts, open the port bank and check the passages. Hour labor at most." +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?",Just as an aside - are all the F150 owners aware of the balancer issues and what to watch out for?,Just as an aside - are all the F150 owners aware of the balancer issues and what to watch out for?,"There is an idle stop screw that may be too advanced. When you adjust your cables back you are allowing the spring to return the throttle plate to the closed position, but the stop screw sets how closed is ""closed"". It is a small screw right on the carburettor. + +Stuart" +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?",got a 05 f150 yahama hard to start when warn or hot smells like flooded when i try crank if let it sit and cool it cranks up,got a 05 f150 yahama hard to start when warn or hot smells like flooded when i try crank if let it sit and cool it cranks up,"Oh wow, I would have been way off... I didn't know about the loop. Thanks for the reply!" +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?","aliboy said: + + + + Just as an aside - are all the F150 owners aware of the balancer issues and what to watch out for? + +Click to expand... + + +Balancer Issue? what should we be aware of with this? thanks + +kevin","aliboy said: + + + + Just as an aside - are all the F150 owners aware of the balancer issues and what to watch out for? + +Click to expand... + + +Balancer Issue? what should we be aware of with this? thanks + +kevin","Compression test. If low, or out of balance (i.e. more than 10% between high and low cylinder), decarb the engine with Sea Foam or YamaLube Ring Free. If compression up to specs, back to the carbs." +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?","Would you please send me a copy of the bulletin. +[email protected] + +Thanks","Would you please send me a copy of the bulletin. +[email protected] + +Thanks",Thank you +"Had motor in shop and following things were done. +Primer bulb and fuel line, fuel filter, coil dampers, low pressure mechanical fuel pumps, spark plugs. Fuel pressure test, 38 at idle, 46 at top end. Compression test was good with no leak down. Computer diagnostic showed all in proper range. Suggestions?","dward said: + + + + On the hard start when warm problem, the 04 and 05 F150s have a starting when warm problem that Yamaha put a bulletin and ""fix"" on, but only if the owner brought it in. The repair was covered under warranty, so now it won't be covered any more. I have a copy of the bulletin that I can send if you pm an email to send it to. + +Click to expand... + + + +Hi, if you still have this Bulliten, I’d really appreciate if you would forward a copy to me at “[email protected]”. Thanks","dward said: + + + + On the hard start when warm problem, the 04 and 05 F150s have a starting when warm problem that Yamaha put a bulletin and ""fix"" on, but only if the owner brought it in. The repair was covered under warranty, so now it won't be covered any more. I have a copy of the bulletin that I can send if you pm an email to send it to. + +Click to expand... + + + +Hi, if you still have this Bulliten, I’d really appreciate if you would forward a copy to me at “[email protected]”. Thanks","Does the casing separate at all, or does it not even move?" +"Have blown 1999 yamaha 200. can the 704 control be used with a 2005 Yamaha 250 four stroke? Also, will the mounting holes to transom have to be redrilled or is the mount basically the same?","The answer to the first question is yes, the 704 can be re-used.","The answer to the first question is yes, the 704 can be re-used.","What is the boat powered by? I ask, because, Mercruiser (if that is the power) has generic wiring diagrams for the engine and instrumentation. If it does have Mercruiser, and you don't have the diagrams, I can send to you. I had an '80 19' Bayliner Eagle, with a 3.0L Merc, that had the wiring all ripped out when I got it. I rewired the engine / instruments / trim, per the Merc drawings, and everything worked fine. The other stuff such as Nav lights, bilge pump, horn, blower, and such, were a piece of cake." +"Have blown 1999 yamaha 200. can the 704 control be used with a 2005 Yamaha 250 four stroke? Also, will the mounting holes to transom have to be redrilled or is the mount basically the same?",Same mounting holes for both models.,Same mounting holes for both models.,"Thanks guys for the great info. + +So I don't mean to sound like a rookie, but that up/down switch you see on the dash pic, is that for shifting or tilt? It seems obvious thinking about it now but I didn't realize boat motors we're geared too. I've only used trolling motors on a canoe" +"A friend purchased this and it is in like new condition. +He took the carb off, cleaned it thoroughly but it does not fire. We put a spark tester on it and there is a good strong spark. We tried different positions for the emergency shutoff switch on the front but my understanding is that there would be no spark if that is not working correctly. +We also tried disconnecting what we believe to be the disconnect switch but it still has spark but doesn't even sputter. +I tried carb cleaner and it still did nothing. +My guess is it has to do with the shutoff switch but is there a fuse or something I'm missing ?","The kill switch/cutoff switch applies a ground to stop the motor from running. It disables the ignition. In which case there will be no spark. + +While cranking the motor mist some gasoline into the air intake system. If it fires then you will know that it is a fuel related problem.","The kill switch/cutoff switch applies a ground to stop the motor from running. It disables the ignition. In which case there will be no spark. + +While cranking the motor mist some gasoline into the air intake system. If it fires then you will know that it is a fuel related problem.","Bondo is correct. However, if I had another stern drive, I sure would like to know my trim angle on the gauge. So, when your boating season is over, I would recommend re-wiring the whole tilt/trim system." +"A friend purchased this and it is in like new condition. +He took the carb off, cleaned it thoroughly but it does not fire. We put a spark tester on it and there is a good strong spark. We tried different positions for the emergency shutoff switch on the front but my understanding is that there would be no spark if that is not working correctly. +We also tried disconnecting what we believe to be the disconnect switch but it still has spark but doesn't even sputter. +I tried carb cleaner and it still did nothing. +My guess is it has to do with the shutoff switch but is there a fuse or something I'm missing ?","boscoe said: + + + + The kill switch/cutoff switch applies a ground to stop the motor from running. It disables the ignition. In which case there will be no spark. + +While cranking the motor mist some gasoline into the air intake system. If it fires then you will know that it is a fuel related problem. + +Click to expand... + + +We still saw spark so it likely isn't the kill switch. I mentioned carb cleaner. I was spraying it into the carb. I don't expect it to run but I do expect it to sputter with carb cleaner at least for a moment but it does nothing. We'll try a replacement spark plug and if that doesn't work, I don't know what to try next.","boscoe said: + + + + The kill switch/cutoff switch applies a ground to stop the motor from running. It disables the ignition. In which case there will be no spark. + +While cranking the motor mist some gasoline into the air intake system. If it fires then you will know that it is a fuel related problem. + +Click to expand... + + +We still saw spark so it likely isn't the kill switch. I mentioned carb cleaner. I was spraying it into the carb. I don't expect it to run but I do expect it to sputter with carb cleaner at least for a moment but it does nothing. We'll try a replacement spark plug and if that doesn't work, I don't know what to try next.",The manual says after 1000 hrs or 5years which ever comes up 1st best to check it with every service. +"A friend purchased this and it is in like new condition. +He took the carb off, cleaned it thoroughly but it does not fire. We put a spark tester on it and there is a good strong spark. We tried different positions for the emergency shutoff switch on the front but my understanding is that there would be no spark if that is not working correctly. +We also tried disconnecting what we believe to be the disconnect switch but it still has spark but doesn't even sputter. +I tried carb cleaner and it still did nothing. +My guess is it has to do with the shutoff switch but is there a fuse or something I'm missing ?",What kind of a spark tester are you using ??,What kind of a spark tester are you using ??,View attachment 11016 +"A friend purchased this and it is in like new condition. +He took the carb off, cleaned it thoroughly but it does not fire. We put a spark tester on it and there is a good strong spark. We tried different positions for the emergency shutoff switch on the front but my understanding is that there would be no spark if that is not working correctly. +We also tried disconnecting what we believe to be the disconnect switch but it still has spark but doesn't even sputter. +I tried carb cleaner and it still did nothing. +My guess is it has to do with the shutoff switch but is there a fuse or something I'm missing ?","boscoe said: + + + + While cranking the motor mist some gasoline into the air intake system. If it fires then you will know that it is a fuel related problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Just wondering what would be an easy way to ""mist"" gasoline into the intake? Plastic spray bottles tend to melt with gasoline, so what's the best way to do it? Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + While cranking the motor mist some gasoline into the air intake system. If it fires then you will know that it is a fuel related problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Just wondering what would be an easy way to ""mist"" gasoline into the intake? Plastic spray bottles tend to melt with gasoline, so what's the best way to do it? Thanks.",your location ? +"A friend purchased this and it is in like new condition. +He took the carb off, cleaned it thoroughly but it does not fire. We put a spark tester on it and there is a good strong spark. We tried different positions for the emergency shutoff switch on the front but my understanding is that there would be no spark if that is not working correctly. +We also tried disconnecting what we believe to be the disconnect switch but it still has spark but doesn't even sputter. +I tried carb cleaner and it still did nothing. +My guess is it has to do with the shutoff switch but is there a fuse or something I'm missing ?",A metal pump type oil can works real good.,A metal pump type oil can works real good.,I have changed the spark plugs and gapped them correctly it is the idle screw that I adjusted and I think I just found the problem on my lower card the low idle air/fuel mixture screw is broke off. The carb on top has one I thought that it was like the idle screw only one for both carbs does that seem right +"A friend purchased this and it is in like new condition. +He took the carb off, cleaned it thoroughly but it does not fire. We put a spark tester on it and there is a good strong spark. We tried different positions for the emergency shutoff switch on the front but my understanding is that there would be no spark if that is not working correctly. +We also tried disconnecting what we believe to be the disconnect switch but it still has spark but doesn't even sputter. +I tried carb cleaner and it still did nothing. +My guess is it has to do with the shutoff switch but is there a fuse or something I'm missing ?","Boobie said: + + + + A metal pump type oil can works real good. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Boobie, good tip.","Boobie said: + + + + A metal pump type oil can works real good. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Boobie, good tip.","Try a test first before doing anything further. Empty the main oil tank. The one on the motor. Remove the sight sump to do this. Clean, reattach and secure the sump. Make sure the remote tank has oil in it. At least half a tank. + +Turn the key switch to the ON position only. Wait a bit. Take note of the time. The pump should start to run. Oil should start to be pumped from the remote tank to the main tank. The main tank should fill within 180 seconds. If not, the pump will time out. If the tank fills within 180 seconds the pump and the filter are doing their job. If the pump times out before 180 seconds has gone by the filter may be partially clogged and/or the voltage to the pump could be low." +"Hi all, I was hoping someone on here could help me with this problem. I just bought the boat and everything worked fine. Today I tilted the motor up and the pump motor would not shut off and the motor will not tilt down. When I try the switch to tilt down, the motor shuts off but, when I release it, the motor starts running again. I disconnected the battery to keep it from burning up but, when I connect the battery, it starts running again. I tried disconnecting the wire from the tilt switch on motor, but it still is stuck on. + +Thanks for any help +Dmiller151",Swap the relays?,Swap the relays?,"Yes, that's what I meant. The first time I cleaned the carb on a lawn mower I blew it out with air. I didn't know the rubber seat was in the hole and it is now somewhere composting out in the back yard someplace. It took tearing down another carb to figure out what I had done. So, now I know what to look out for. There is likely more rubber seats in the kit. + +Thanks for the reply. + +Alan" +"Hi all, I was hoping someone on here could help me with this problem. I just bought the boat and everything worked fine. Today I tilted the motor up and the pump motor would not shut off and the motor will not tilt down. When I try the switch to tilt down, the motor shuts off but, when I release it, the motor starts running again. I disconnected the battery to keep it from burning up but, when I connect the battery, it starts running again. I tried disconnecting the wire from the tilt switch on motor, but it still is stuck on. + +Thanks for any help +Dmiller151","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Swap the relays? + +Click to expand... + + +What do you mean by ""swap the relays"". Does it sound like I need to buy a new relay?","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Swap the relays? + +Click to expand... + + +What do you mean by ""swap the relays"". Does it sound like I need to buy a new relay?",OK. Located blown fuse under the console and replaced. Instruments working fine again. My fuel tank has a mechanical gauge on top and what I'm guessing is the sender unit attached to it with two leads coming off and going up to the gauge on the console. Mechanical gauge on tank works fine (added fuel to see if it shows it and it does). Needle on analog gauge on console is at the very bottom when switch is off. When switch is on needle jumps to the 'E' on the gauge and stays there even after I added fuel. From what you've told me it's either the sending unit or the gauge itself (or wiring but I'm hoping that's not the case for now). I guess there is no way of testing the gauge without removing the sending unit from the tank?? I'd rather not take off the sending unit unless I really have to (call me chicken). +"Hi all, I was hoping someone on here could help me with this problem. I just bought the boat and everything worked fine. Today I tilted the motor up and the pump motor would not shut off and the motor will not tilt down. When I try the switch to tilt down, the motor shuts off but, when I release it, the motor starts running again. I disconnected the battery to keep it from burning up but, when I connect the battery, it starts running again. I tried disconnecting the wire from the tilt switch on motor, but it still is stuck on. + +Thanks for any help +Dmiller151","First ascertain that your trim switch (s) itself isn't stuck/shorted out in the ""up"" position. That would be suspect in my mind, you can do that with either a test light or multi meter. If it isn't that then do as previously recommended and switch out your up/down relays. One could be hung ""in"".","First ascertain that your trim switch (s) itself isn't stuck/shorted out in the ""up"" position. That would be suspect in my mind, you can do that with either a test light or multi meter. If it isn't that then do as previously recommended and switch out your up/down relays. One could be hung ""in"".",You set the idle speed with the engine IN THE WATER right? (not on land running on earmuffs). Idle set on land running on earmuffs will seldom let the engine idle when it is in the water (exhaust back-pressure). It may start in the water but it will seldom keep running (learned this the hard way like everything else). +"I just picked up a powrtran tilt unit (kinda like a cmc). It has a giant dual button for the controls. Is there a way I can modify my tiller to change the throttle with one that has the thumb control for the trim? + +Motor is a 2000 Yamaha 25 four stroke.","Yes you can, but you will have to engineer something yourself unfortunately, I did something similar with my 70CES racing motor where I added a button to the tiller, no pics to show you unfortunately ...","Yes you can, but you will have to engineer something yourself unfortunately, I did something similar with my 70CES racing motor where I added a button to the tiller, no pics to show you unfortunately ...","2X on the acetylene torch for freeing the seized fasteners. Just be careful with what the business end contacts and make sure you have adequate ventilation. if the torch is a non-starters, PB . I've had best luck with it when it sits overnight." +"I just picked up a powrtran tilt unit (kinda like a cmc). It has a giant dual button for the controls. Is there a way I can modify my tiller to change the throttle with one that has the thumb control for the trim? + +Motor is a 2000 Yamaha 25 four stroke.","This is about as easy and slick as you can do it. +https://www.arkansashunting.net/threads/yamaha-tiller-trim-switch-instructions.189761/","This is about as easy and slick as you can do it. +https://www.arkansashunting.net/threads/yamaha-tiller-trim-switch-instructions.189761/","You should have three wires coming off the instrument, if it is the standard type. If you connect the ground to battery negative and the I (Ignition) terminal to battery positive, then tach should go to zero. If your set up has a customized plug that goes into a harness, you are going to need to figure out the ground and Ignition connectors to test it. Try the Faria website." +"hi +i am having problems after undoing the gear selector rod on my 25 hp two stroke +changed the impel la and that was no problem but when i reconnect the gear linkage now have selector problem with the forward control selector when i put it in to nutral the prop is still spinning and i have to move the selector into the nearly the revers position before its in nutral +also i have a clicking sound that some time comes when i do this it sounds like the dog clutch is ingauging +i have ajusted the selector rod thinking that that is some what out of adjustment but thats not working i have looked at the linkage that connect to the gear selector that come from the forward controls but that out of adjustment and to get it in the right place i have run out of thread on the fitting that comes of the cable to the leaver arm of the gear box selector +i am at a lose as to what i have done wrong as it was working quite fine until i disconnected it and reconnected it +there must be some ajustment that i have done or not done that has made it so +please cane some one help",Slowly turn the UPPER nut till shift rod seperates .-----Operate lever to lift the shift rod.-----Turn upper nut down 2 turns -----Bring upper rod down to engage lower thread rod an tighten.,Slowly turn the UPPER nut till shift rod seperates .-----Operate lever to lift the shift rod.-----Turn upper nut down 2 turns -----Bring upper rod down to engage lower thread rod an tighten.,"First thing to check is the kill switch that will be located somewhere on your key switch panel. It will have a lanyard connected to it that goes to a clip on a release switch. The clip keeps the release switch from closing, which grounds your motor." +"hi +i am having problems after undoing the gear selector rod on my 25 hp two stroke +changed the impel la and that was no problem but when i reconnect the gear linkage now have selector problem with the forward control selector when i put it in to nutral the prop is still spinning and i have to move the selector into the nearly the revers position before its in nutral +also i have a clicking sound that some time comes when i do this it sounds like the dog clutch is ingauging +i have ajusted the selector rod thinking that that is some what out of adjustment but thats not working i have looked at the linkage that connect to the gear selector that come from the forward controls but that out of adjustment and to get it in the right place i have run out of thread on the fitting that comes of the cable to the leaver arm of the gear box selector +i am at a lose as to what i have done wrong as it was working quite fine until i disconnected it and reconnected it +there must be some ajustment that i have done or not done that has made it so +please cane some one help",thanks i will give it a try,thanks i will give it a try,"Chris, after replacing fuel lines and primer ball along with the fuel filter there's no leakage. The primer ball tells the system is full. However, it seems like the fuel pumps are faulty but not saturating the engine according to your suggestion but instead not giving it enough fuel. Pumping the primer ball will make it run again. I have ordered new membrans to the two fuel pumps. Hopefully a replacement of those will sort this problem out. Regards Peter" +"hi +i am having problems after undoing the gear selector rod on my 25 hp two stroke +changed the impel la and that was no problem but when i reconnect the gear linkage now have selector problem with the forward control selector when i put it in to nutral the prop is still spinning and i have to move the selector into the nearly the revers position before its in nutral +also i have a clicking sound that some time comes when i do this it sounds like the dog clutch is ingauging +i have ajusted the selector rod thinking that that is some what out of adjustment but thats not working i have looked at the linkage that connect to the gear selector that come from the forward controls but that out of adjustment and to get it in the right place i have run out of thread on the fitting that comes of the cable to the leaver arm of the gear box selector +i am at a lose as to what i have done wrong as it was working quite fine until i disconnected it and reconnected it +there must be some ajustment that i have done or not done that has made it so +please cane some one help","wonnie said: + + + + thanks i will give it a try + +Click to expand... + +ok so u=i have done that and then i found out that i had not put the motor in revers e when i put it back to gether +this as u can emagen was the problem as this is the first time i have worked on this motor i guse u could say its a beginner problem but being me i think i was not thinking at the time and in to much of a hurry to get it going again +thanks for the advise i received","wonnie said: + + + + thanks i will give it a try + +Click to expand... + +ok so u=i have done that and then i found out that i had not put the motor in revers e when i put it back to gether +this as u can emagen was the problem as this is the first time i have worked on this motor i guse u could say its a beginner problem but being me i think i was not thinking at the time and in to much of a hurry to get it going again +thanks for the advise i received","Yeah, it does seem like it could be a cracked reed valve that isn't opening all the way. The only other thing I can think of is that the compression test (for whatever reason) was invalid and there is in fact something wrong in that cylinder." +"I just bought a 2001 Yamaha 40HP motor that was on a 13 1/2 Whaler, I plan to run it on a 15' tri hull. I need help determining the size and pitch of propeller for general overall performance. It currently has a 992409 16P prop I think from a Mercury on it. I am looking at putting a 11 X 15 on it for overall performance, O don't have the motor on the boat yet. Thanks in advance.","Your prop selection is determined by wide open throttle RPM, found in owners manual","Your prop selection is determined by wide open throttle RPM, found in owners manual",Got a update. Did compression check on all cylinders. They all have 92-96lb on every cylinder. It looks like the power head was rebuilt or replaced before. And I think when they tried to get it off they used a screw driver or something and bent out where the hole was or something. I’m only in town for a couple days but the motor is running flawless. Got the hole welded up and gonna keep going with it. +"I just bought a 2001 Yamaha 40HP motor that was on a 13 1/2 Whaler, I plan to run it on a 15' tri hull. I need help determining the size and pitch of propeller for general overall performance. It currently has a 992409 16P prop I think from a Mercury on it. I am looking at putting a 11 X 15 on it for overall performance, O don't have the motor on the boat yet. Thanks in advance.","First knowing the rpms @WOT with the 16"" pitch will help to determine if a different pitch is needed. Refer to your engine manual for spec rpms @WOT. The rule of thumb used to approximate rpms with a change of pitch is 150-200 rpms per 1"" of pitch. Increasing pitch decreases rpms, and vice versa. There are also other variables that influence rpms, such as engine height and prop alloy (SS or Al). Choosing the perfect prop is more of an art than a exact science.","First knowing the rpms @WOT with the 16"" pitch will help to determine if a different pitch is needed. Refer to your engine manual for spec rpms @WOT. The rule of thumb used to approximate rpms with a change of pitch is 150-200 rpms per 1"" of pitch. Increasing pitch decreases rpms, and vice versa. There are also other variables that influence rpms, such as engine height and prop alloy (SS or Al). Choosing the perfect prop is more of an art than a exact science.","chawk_man said: + + + + I just installed a higher grade replacement antenna (Shakespeare) on my boat. Now, VHF (West marine) hangs up on channel 68 when GPS (Garmin 4208) is on. Why is that happening and what can I do to fix it? Thanks for any help. + +Click to expand... + + +1st..Check that all the grounds are good. +2nd..Be sure the cables from the GPS and radio are not ""bundled together"" and keep them seperate. The GPS power to the transducer may be may be putting out enough RF around the cable that it is simulating a signal on the radio. +3rd.. Try installing ""shielded cable"" on the power inputs to both the radio and GPS, grounding the shield only on one end of the cable shield (not both ends) and seperating all the cables." +"A friend's son brought his motor over for me to check out. He said that it froze during duck season and they could not get it in gear. Maybe they put a good deal of force on it. It is a C25MSHQ. I took a short video of what it is doing. + + +https://youtu.be/HbTrjTJTNm4","Thanks for all the suggestions so far, but I was wondering what it might entail to repair.","Thanks for all the suggestions so far, but I was wondering what it might entail to repair.","Helisol said: + + + + I have an 84 34' Sedan Flybridge and the (felt?) seals that the windows slide in are shot. +One area is so bad it is starting to allow rain into the salon. +I'm not even sure how to remove the windows. +Any help would be appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +I have a 1985 Sea Ray 268 Weekender (bought just over a year ago and I knew nothing of boats like this). Anyway I too have this issue with the felt seals. My windows were made by Taylor Made and I contacted them. Good News...they have the seal! This is the sample that they sent me and it's the right one! Is this what you are looking for? If so, the material is NOT cheap at $5.10/ft from Taylor Made. I'm still looking for another supplier. Taylor Made sent me the actual print from the original manufacturer, but they have said that they don't make this item. My guess is they sold the tool to another vendor. BTW: My job is to estimate parts...this should be about $0.60/ft! Quite the markup. + +Any help in finding another source would be great. I'm stressed at spending $250 on this stuff." +"A friend's son brought his motor over for me to check out. He said that it froze during duck season and they could not get it in gear. Maybe they put a good deal of force on it. It is a C25MSHQ. I took a short video of what it is doing. + + +https://youtu.be/HbTrjTJTNm4",More than likely you will be tearing that lower unit apart.,More than likely you will be tearing that lower unit apart.,"Mercruiser, Chev 350 TBI engines, Alpha1 Gen2 drives" +"New to me yammie 1997 150 saltwater II - good compression even at 120 psi on all 6 + 5 plugs look normal except bottom right (#5?) is spotless including threads- looks like it was put in and never fired- I understand that water will clean top of plug - but threads are spotless clean also- questioned seller- he says these were put in 2 years go- NO WAY - ?","Clean plug means no spark to that plug.---Or no fuel / too much fuel.-----Or no crankcase compression on that cylinder.------A V-6 runs very well on 5 cylinders.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or more on all leads , yes or no.","Clean plug means no spark to that plug.---Or no fuel / too much fuel.-----Or no crankcase compression on that cylinder.------A V-6 runs very well on 5 cylinders.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or more on all leads , yes or no.","Yamaha dealer did not explain why, they just recommended changing the power head" +"New to me yammie 1997 150 saltwater II - good compression even at 120 psi on all 6 + 5 plugs look normal except bottom right (#5?) is spotless including threads- looks like it was put in and never fired- I understand that water will clean top of plug - but threads are spotless clean also- questioned seller- he says these were put in 2 years go- NO WAY - ?","Just checked per your suggestion - yep 3/8"" or more. +Check spark on ""clean"" plug - all good. Guess I will fire up this weekend and and start pulling plugs wires to see it it drops a cylinder out- +So I expect carb build next. + +Need a wiring diagram - end cut off one cable - +Thanks for response-","Just checked per your suggestion - yep 3/8"" or more. +Check spark on ""clean"" plug - all good. Guess I will fire up this weekend and and start pulling plugs wires to see it it drops a cylinder out- +So I expect carb build next. + +Need a wiring diagram - end cut off one cable - +Thanks for response-","I just replaced mine this week, Use a garden hose and push over the end of the cable at the helm end, shrink wrap it, the give it a spray bottle of soapy water as you push and someone pulls the cable out the transom end, cut the hose off the old cable and leave the hose in the boat. Do the same with the new cable, it took me and my wife less then 2 minutes to replace my cable this way, Also helps keep the new greasy end clean." +"New to me yammie 1997 150 saltwater II - good compression even at 120 psi on all 6 + 5 plugs look normal except bottom right (#5?) is spotless including threads- looks like it was put in and never fired- I understand that water will clean top of plug - but threads are spotless clean also- questioned seller- he says these were put in 2 years go- NO WAY - ?","Found water in #2 and #6 cylinders. Tore block down- everything looks excellent except some cracks in front half of block- these go not go thur to machined surface inside. +Drained on engine oil tank- it was full - after it set for a 1/2 hour in clear jar there was 3/8"" ""water"" at bottom of jar. Since only 2 cylinders appeared to have water I do not think this is source of water in cylinders. +Where is water coming from? Head gaskets did not look damaged.","Found water in #2 and #6 cylinders. Tore block down- everything looks excellent except some cracks in front half of block- these go not go thur to machined surface inside. +Drained on engine oil tank- it was full - after it set for a 1/2 hour in clear jar there was 3/8"" ""water"" at bottom of jar. Since only 2 cylinders appeared to have water I do not think this is source of water in cylinders. +Where is water coming from? Head gaskets did not look damaged.","The statement ---"" it appears to not be firing "" ---means very little.----So is there spark on both leads that will jump a gap of 3/8"" ( 1 cm ) on both leads, yes or no ?" +"Just bought a second-hand boat and used it for the 3rd time. + + +It got a 40HP Yamaha 2 stroke engine from 2013. + + +I anchored it for a few hours and when I started it to head home the overheat indicator started flashing. I was running it at low speed for a while and turned it off and on again but the indicator was still flashing. + + +I got towed back home since I did not want to risk anything. + + +When coming home I noticed that it's enough to turn on the ignition for the overheat warning to come on. Started it quickly to run it through with fresh water and the indicator kept flashing. + + + + +Since the warning comes on as soon as I turn on the ignition I suspect that it's a false indication. Cause even with some problems it would not overheat within a few seconds? + + +The water seems to be flowing as it should and it's not overly hot when coming out. As I understand it as long as the water flow keeps going I got water in the system? Correct? + + + + +Happy for any kind of input. + +Images below shows engine ID & the warning on the tachometer.",Did you remember to mix oil with the fuel?,Did you remember to mix oil with the fuel?,Thanks so much! Really appreciate the help. Come to Hawaii and I’ll take you out on my boat that actually runs. Haha +"Just bought a second-hand boat and used it for the 3rd time. + + +It got a 40HP Yamaha 2 stroke engine from 2013. + + +I anchored it for a few hours and when I started it to head home the overheat indicator started flashing. I was running it at low speed for a while and turned it off and on again but the indicator was still flashing. + + +I got towed back home since I did not want to risk anything. + + +When coming home I noticed that it's enough to turn on the ignition for the overheat warning to come on. Started it quickly to run it through with fresh water and the indicator kept flashing. + + + + +Since the warning comes on as soon as I turn on the ignition I suspect that it's a false indication. Cause even with some problems it would not overheat within a few seconds? + + +The water seems to be flowing as it should and it's not overly hot when coming out. As I understand it as long as the water flow keeps going I got water in the system? Correct? + + + + +Happy for any kind of input. + +Images below shows engine ID & the warning on the tachometer.","HugoBoater said: + + + + Since the warning comes on as soon as I turn on the ignition I suspect that it's a false indication. Cause even with some problems it would not overheat within a few seconds? + + +The water seems to be flowing as it should and it's not overly hot when coming out. As I understand it as long as the water flow keeps going I got water in the system? Correct? + +Click to expand... + + +In reference to your 2 statements above... + +If when you start the engine it's cold, yet the overheat alarm activates, then yes I would suspect the issue is electrical. Pull the thermosensors and test they are within spec. + +Yes, as long as you see water exiting the tell tale then there is water flowing through the cooling system. However, this does not imply water is completely circulating through the cooling system. Water will flow in the path of least resistance. If corrosion has built up enough within the cooling passages to cause blockage, this would prevent water from flowing...ect. The only true indicator the tell tale represents is whether or not the water pump is functioning...it is not an indication of whether or not water is flowing through the cooling system completely.","HugoBoater said: + + + + Since the warning comes on as soon as I turn on the ignition I suspect that it's a false indication. Cause even with some problems it would not overheat within a few seconds? + + +The water seems to be flowing as it should and it's not overly hot when coming out. As I understand it as long as the water flow keeps going I got water in the system? Correct? + +Click to expand... + + +In reference to your 2 statements above... + +If when you start the engine it's cold, yet the overheat alarm activates, then yes I would suspect the issue is electrical. Pull the thermosensors and test they are within spec. + +Yes, as long as you see water exiting the tell tale then there is water flowing through the cooling system. However, this does not imply water is completely circulating through the cooling system. Water will flow in the path of least resistance. If corrosion has built up enough within the cooling passages to cause blockage, this would prevent water from flowing...ect. The only true indicator the tell tale represents is whether or not the water pump is functioning...it is not an indication of whether or not water is flowing through the cooling system completely.",Most common causes of con rod failure of this nature are big end seizure and over revving. +"Just bought a second-hand boat and used it for the 3rd time. + + +It got a 40HP Yamaha 2 stroke engine from 2013. + + +I anchored it for a few hours and when I started it to head home the overheat indicator started flashing. I was running it at low speed for a while and turned it off and on again but the indicator was still flashing. + + +I got towed back home since I did not want to risk anything. + + +When coming home I noticed that it's enough to turn on the ignition for the overheat warning to come on. Started it quickly to run it through with fresh water and the indicator kept flashing. + + + + +Since the warning comes on as soon as I turn on the ignition I suspect that it's a false indication. Cause even with some problems it would not overheat within a few seconds? + + +The water seems to be flowing as it should and it's not overly hot when coming out. As I understand it as long as the water flow keeps going I got water in the system? Correct? + + + + +Happy for any kind of input. + +Images below shows engine ID & the warning on the tachometer.","The first thing to check is that you had the right oil/fuel mix. +Then i would move onto making sure the cooling water is getting round the engine and is producing the tell tale. +As mentioned above, also pull the thermosensors out and check that they are all as they should be. +to be honest chances are that it is just electrical seeing as you don't even have to be running for this issue to occur.","The first thing to check is that you had the right oil/fuel mix. +Then i would move onto making sure the cooling water is getting round the engine and is producing the tell tale. +As mentioned above, also pull the thermosensors out and check that they are all as they should be. +to be honest chances are that it is just electrical seeing as you don't even have to be running for this issue to occur.",Intermittent faults are always wiring related. Sand all grounds metal to metal. Clean all connectors with electrical cleaner and put back together with dielectric grease. I like to do a few connectors at a time so you have an idea where the fault was. +"Just bought a second-hand boat and used it for the 3rd time. + + +It got a 40HP Yamaha 2 stroke engine from 2013. + + +I anchored it for a few hours and when I started it to head home the overheat indicator started flashing. I was running it at low speed for a while and turned it off and on again but the indicator was still flashing. + + +I got towed back home since I did not want to risk anything. + + +When coming home I noticed that it's enough to turn on the ignition for the overheat warning to come on. Started it quickly to run it through with fresh water and the indicator kept flashing. + + + + +Since the warning comes on as soon as I turn on the ignition I suspect that it's a false indication. Cause even with some problems it would not overheat within a few seconds? + + +The water seems to be flowing as it should and it's not overly hot when coming out. As I understand it as long as the water flow keeps going I got water in the system? Correct? + + + + +Happy for any kind of input. + +Images below shows engine ID & the warning on the tachometer.","It could possibly be a bad oil sensor. If the sensor is not working, it will send the warning because it thinks you are low on oil. It may also put the engine into a guardian mode and not allow you to run it at higher speeds. Not sure if this has happened to you, but just my 2 cents.","It could possibly be a bad oil sensor. If the sensor is not working, it will send the warning because it thinks you are low on oil. It may also put the engine into a guardian mode and not allow you to run it at higher speeds. Not sure if this has happened to you, but just my 2 cents.","We usually start with a compression test,spark test second,then move onto fuel diagnostics. It's best to use this system because fuel & ignition issues can sometimes mimac each other. Better to eliminate one at a time." +"Just bought a second-hand boat and used it for the 3rd time. + + +It got a 40HP Yamaha 2 stroke engine from 2013. + + +I anchored it for a few hours and when I started it to head home the overheat indicator started flashing. I was running it at low speed for a while and turned it off and on again but the indicator was still flashing. + + +I got towed back home since I did not want to risk anything. + + +When coming home I noticed that it's enough to turn on the ignition for the overheat warning to come on. Started it quickly to run it through with fresh water and the indicator kept flashing. + + + + +Since the warning comes on as soon as I turn on the ignition I suspect that it's a false indication. Cause even with some problems it would not overheat within a few seconds? + + +The water seems to be flowing as it should and it's not overly hot when coming out. As I understand it as long as the water flow keeps going I got water in the system? Correct? + + + + +Happy for any kind of input. + +Images below shows engine ID & the warning on the tachometer.","HugoBoater said: + + + + J +I anchored it for a few hours and when I started it to head home the overheat indicator started flashing. + +Click to expand... + + + +Regarding the ""low oil"" issue - the OP says the Overheat Indicator flashed, not the Low Oil indicator. The oil level sensor and overheat sensor activate different flashing indicators on the Tacho.","HugoBoater said: + + + + J +I anchored it for a few hours and when I started it to head home the overheat indicator started flashing. + +Click to expand... + + + +Regarding the ""low oil"" issue - the OP says the Overheat Indicator flashed, not the Low Oil indicator. The oil level sensor and overheat sensor activate different flashing indicators on the Tacho.","You could use a fuel fill that accepts a threaded pipe fitting in the underside. Then you would use a combination of a close nipple, 90 or 45 elbow (or street ell instead) and a tailpiece with hose barb. Examples here: http://www.fisheriessupply.com/plumbing/deck-fills + +Consider this though: a 90 degree elbow attached to the filler is going to make fueling slower and you'll probably have to hold the nozzle." +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks",Good and snug is the proper torque value on all small aluminum threads. Take the bolt up to your local hardware store and properly ID the thread and pitch the get the proper helicoil kit. Never use a torque wrench on small bolts on a outboard engine period. Install new gaskets with a light coat of permatex aviation on both sides of the gasket.,Good and snug is the proper torque value on all small aluminum threads. Take the bolt up to your local hardware store and properly ID the thread and pitch the get the proper helicoil kit. Never use a torque wrench on small bolts on a outboard engine period. Install new gaskets with a light coat of permatex aviation on both sides of the gasket.,"agree with Chris and Bondo....you got it all pretty with new seats and everything so sell it while its running...you are going to take a hell of a beating on it if it breaks and you cant get parts etc...a boat with an engine down is not worth much... sometimes,depending on experience with boats etc, it pays to pay a professional up front to help you get into the right rig....at least get one to inspect the rig before you buy it..just my opinion but i am 75 years old and a lot of that time on the water...all my kids could run a boat before they could drive a car..." +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks","Thanks for the quick reply that's good to know? +its a 6mm thread and 1.0 pitch bolt , checked on a thread gauge ? +Stupid question but can I drill into the stripped hole on the actual outboard or take the the cylinder and cooling jacket off first then do it ? Because I'm thinking if I drill when it's on the outboard, the metal strips of the drill and tap will go into Casing or water jacket ?? I don't know what's behind ??? +thanks","Thanks for the quick reply that's good to know? +its a 6mm thread and 1.0 pitch bolt , checked on a thread gauge ? +Stupid question but can I drill into the stripped hole on the actual outboard or take the the cylinder and cooling jacket off first then do it ? Because I'm thinking if I drill when it's on the outboard, the metal strips of the drill and tap will go into Casing or water jacket ?? I don't know what's behind ??? +thanks","jnobby said: + + + + Well, the change of the ECU did NOT help my issue. Back to the drawing board and start all over again. Pulled the VST apart and checked the filter again and cleaned it so it was totally see through. Well, it actually did not take too much cleaning as it was pretty clean already. Still think it is a voltage problem as the gauge consistently moves. The Yam dealers here are grasping at straws as well. Had the injectors professionally cleaned new seals as well. Have not had it for a run since I cleaned the VST filter tonight. Thanks for all of the responses. deepsea21...I called the boat company and they said there is a filter on the end of the hose so will check out that as well. + +Click to expand... + + +AHHHHH... so there is a filter on the fuel pick-up line! Don't just check it - GET RID OF IT and see what happens. It an seem clean and clear until it gets clogged with debris in the tank again while running. Let the other larger filters deal with any debris in the tank." +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks","Are you speaking of the thermostat cover? If my assumption is correct, the service manual indicates the 2-stage thermostat cover tightening torque is first, 2.9 ft-lb on all 4 screws, then final of 5.8 ft-lb. + +If Yamaha ""never"" intended the thermostat cover screws to be tightened to a specific torque, they would not have included this torque setting in their service manuals.","Are you speaking of the thermostat cover? If my assumption is correct, the service manual indicates the 2-stage thermostat cover tightening torque is first, 2.9 ft-lb on all 4 screws, then final of 5.8 ft-lb. + +If Yamaha ""never"" intended the thermostat cover screws to be tightened to a specific torque, they would not have included this torque setting in their service manuals.","The teleflex dual station rotary system sounds like the ticket to me if you have room? Measure the distance center of the steering shaft up, read the installation instructions will show you how to measure clearances." +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks",Dip the drill in a can of bearing grease to catch the shavings then do the same with the tap. Go two full threads and back out wipe the grease off and dip it again until the threads are cut.,Dip the drill in a can of bearing grease to catch the shavings then do the same with the tap. Go two full threads and back out wipe the grease off and dip it again until the threads are cut.,"FWIW, make a good drawing of what you have (or have figured out)...it will come in handy down the road when the next issue develops...or when you want to add something." +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks","Great idea mate on the grease ? This is why we use the forum? +thanks everyone for your advice I'll try it all this week ??","Great idea mate on the grease ? This is why we use the forum? +thanks everyone for your advice I'll try it all this week ??",Yeah I would be interested in a trade. I even have a box of the push pins that hold it to the controls. I have since painted the plate and I'll post a picture of it. Anyway you could upload a picture of yours? +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks",You can use the grease trick for installing a helicoil for spark plug holes without pulling the head. Old mercs did not have a head you had to pull the pistons out to remove the shavings.,You can use the grease trick for installing a helicoil for spark plug holes without pulling the head. Old mercs did not have a head you had to pull the pistons out to remove the shavings.,"GLVAndy said: + + + + I have a Merc Scorpion 5.7L - replaced batteries 3 years ago and have noticed that when in idle my gauge shows the charge to be draining but in higher revs gauge shows normal charging position. Have charged batteries and both were indicating full. Any ideas? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... It'll do that on start up,..... but once ya rev it, it should show 13/ 14 volts, even at idle,....." +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks","Got all my gear ready to do the helicoil and I thought two questions : +1. Do I put the helicoil at the bottom of the thread hole ( bolt thread is 40 mm long) or top , because if you look at the pic , the bolt binds the two parts together the cylinder head and thermostat housing ?? +2. You've gave me great advice on the grease on the drill and bit ? Have you got another trick for removing the piece that snaps off when you have inserted the helicoil to its depth, to allow for the bolt to srcrew all the way thru it ?? +thanks again !!","Got all my gear ready to do the helicoil and I thought two questions : +1. Do I put the helicoil at the bottom of the thread hole ( bolt thread is 40 mm long) or top , because if you look at the pic , the bolt binds the two parts together the cylinder head and thermostat housing ?? +2. You've gave me great advice on the grease on the drill and bit ? Have you got another trick for removing the piece that snaps off when you have inserted the helicoil to its depth, to allow for the bolt to srcrew all the way thru it ?? +thanks again !!","thanks chawk, + +that is as complete an answer/solution as i have gotten. + +i shall proceed." +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks",Take a punch or a bolt that fits just inside the threads and push in the tab should break off. I wouldnt worry if it falls in the water jacket if the hole goes all the way through. Unless you can snap it with needle nose pliers?,Take a punch or a bolt that fits just inside the threads and push in the tab should break off. I wouldnt worry if it falls in the water jacket if the hole goes all the way through. Unless you can snap it with needle nose pliers?,Hi me too new to this forum & I am sure we are in a right place for our boat related queries. Thanks +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks","Thanks mate , sounds the way !! +Any of your knowledge on the first question on the helicoil depth ? Just below hole or bottom to pull the sections together ?","Thanks mate , sounds the way !! +Any of your knowledge on the first question on the helicoil depth ? Just below hole or bottom to pull the sections together ?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + How about let's first start with learning from you the basics, other than your model number. + +Where are you hearing this metallic scrambling coming from....under the cowling, from lower unit? Since the engine starts, what happens with this sound as you increase rpms in neutral? What happens with this sound as you increase rpms in gear? Any smoke when it's running, other than normal exhaust. Odd smells? Might want to first check the flywheel cover. If it's mounted too low, you will hear the sound you've described, despite the cover not being metal. + +The more details you provide this forum, the more accurate thus better suggestions you'll receive. + +Click to expand... + + +See above for my previous response to your initial thread question. We don't know what this issue is related to until you first determine where the metallic noise is coming from." +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks",You want the coil one half thread past flush with the surface then snap off the tab. Your gonna want to remove the water jacket cover to get the helicoil at the correct depth in the head. Your putting in a new thermostat may as well get the new cover gasket and put it back together correct. Have you done a compression test? It never hurts to install a new head gasket while your there.,You want the coil one half thread past flush with the surface then snap off the tab. Your gonna want to remove the water jacket cover to get the helicoil at the correct depth in the head. Your putting in a new thermostat may as well get the new cover gasket and put it back together correct. Have you done a compression test? It never hurts to install a new head gasket while your there.,"Bingo you found it, the sender is bad, not working throughout the range" +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks","Have done a Compression test around 110 ? 22 yr old motor is this acceptable ? Yeh will do head gasket , but dreading extracting the bolts out of the block, i've heard they snap quite easy any tips ???","Have done a Compression test around 110 ? 22 yr old motor is this acceptable ? Yeh will do head gasket , but dreading extracting the bolts out of the block, i've heard they snap quite easy any tips ???",Where would be trouble spots to check for rot? Drill into material to see if rotten? +"Hi everyone , has anybody come across a stripped Yamaha thermostat thread? M6mm x1.0 ???? I go to torque the bolt and it goes slack ?? +Investigated a bit further on the net, and it seems common to repair with a helicoil ?? Has anybody got a another way? +Has anybody bought a kit of ebay ? Any advice on this subject will much appreciated ..... +Thanks",A cordless 1/4 drive impact driver makes disassembly alot easier just get a socket adaptor.,A cordless 1/4 drive impact driver makes disassembly alot easier just get a socket adaptor.,"It's been a while and I thought I would give an update on what the issue was... +First let me say that due to the age of the engine and it's generally good mechanical condition I decided to replace the ignition system including CDI. At close to 20 years I figured stuff was due and with each repair would come another spent part. That said after each component I replaced I would run and test, sadly everything I replaced had no effect on the performance issue! I replaced in this order: +pulser coil +charge coil +cdi +each ignition coil (3) +plugs +After all that I was thinking it was possible that a fouled carburation system could indeed cause timing to be thrown off. +I spoke to a friend who is a mechanic who said to check the rectifier. ""Wut, it is delivering 13.5v at 1000rpm and goes up to 15v as throttle increases"". He said that the rectifier does some other stuff that will throw the ignition off yet still perform as it should charging the batteries. Part was cheap enough, so what the heck, I just spent close to $1000 on the rest of the ignition system what's another $65? Replace rectifier and BOOM! engine runs as it should, all readings in spec and with a few idle adjustments, everything is gtg. Now off to catch some Sacalait!" +"hi guys, + +im new here and new to boating. I just bought a used boat with a 2008 Yamaha F90tlr on it, motor start right up and stay idle but if I try to trim up or down engine will kill and can't start again, engine alarm goes off after each time I tried to start. If I try to start it after 15-20mins it will start right up and if I try to trim it will kill again. +The guy I bought the motor from told me that the engine was running good with no issues, only thing he recommended was changing the lower unit oil since he didn't have a chance to get it done. +these are things that I did to the motor after purchase: +-oil change +-new spark plugs +-fuel filter +-lower unit oil change +​​​​​​-adding a water separate between the fuel tank and engine +-adding a different type of kill switch +can you guys give me any suggestions where and what to look for? Any help are greatly appreciate. + +****the fuel bulb will get firm after few pumps but as soon as I stop it will soft again.","You've got 3 principle outboard systems...fuel, compression, and spark, the latter including electrics. Considering the engine kills only when operating trim switch, this isn't a compression or fuel issue. Therefore your focus should be on spark, specifically the electrical system. + +Check cranking battery volts (12.75) +Volt drop test T/T wiring, ignition harness wiring, including the ignition kill switch wiring","You've got 3 principle outboard systems...fuel, compression, and spark, the latter including electrics. Considering the engine kills only when operating trim switch, this isn't a compression or fuel issue. Therefore your focus should be on spark, specifically the electrical system. + +Check cranking battery volts (12.75) +Volt drop test T/T wiring, ignition harness wiring, including the ignition kill switch wiring","If the throttle advance button is stuck in the IN position, the shift function is disabled - so you can speed up the engine..... + +so, if the shift cable isn't moving back at the engine, then the drive likely IS in Neutral and the control box needs to be serviced...." +"hi guys, + +im new here and new to boating. I just bought a used boat with a 2008 Yamaha F90tlr on it, motor start right up and stay idle but if I try to trim up or down engine will kill and can't start again, engine alarm goes off after each time I tried to start. If I try to start it after 15-20mins it will start right up and if I try to trim it will kill again. +The guy I bought the motor from told me that the engine was running good with no issues, only thing he recommended was changing the lower unit oil since he didn't have a chance to get it done. +these are things that I did to the motor after purchase: +-oil change +-new spark plugs +-fuel filter +-lower unit oil change +​​​​​​-adding a water separate between the fuel tank and engine +-adding a different type of kill switch +can you guys give me any suggestions where and what to look for? Any help are greatly appreciate. + +****the fuel bulb will get firm after few pumps but as soon as I stop it will soft again.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + You've got 3 principle outboard systems...fuel, compression, and spark, the latter including electrics. Considering the engine kills only when operating trim switch, this isn't a compression or fuel issue. Therefore your focus should be on spark, specifically the electrical system. + +Check cranking battery volts (12.75) +Volt drop test T/T wiring, ignition harness wiring, including the ignition kill switch wiring + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you, I'll give it a try.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + You've got 3 principle outboard systems...fuel, compression, and spark, the latter including electrics. Considering the engine kills only when operating trim switch, this isn't a compression or fuel issue. Therefore your focus should be on spark, specifically the electrical system. + +Check cranking battery volts (12.75) +Volt drop test T/T wiring, ignition harness wiring, including the ignition kill switch wiring + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you, I'll give it a try.","Yes,looms look good but are a hitch to work with.put a drain hole at lowest point of the loom." +need manual for 1997 150 - perfer download a factory manual - not a Selco,https://www.yamahapubs.com/,https://www.yamahapubs.com/,Thanks bondo..problem solved..was my key switch on my fly bridge..working fine now +"Hello. Glad to have found this forum and thanks for having me. + +I bought an older Aquasport (for the boat itself) with the understanding that the motor would not run and might need to be overhauled. Good thing is I don't have much in the whole rig at all. Figured I would go through motor before attempting to start it since it has been sitting for around 5 years. + +Carbs were a mess which I have redone. The initial compression check was good except for the top port cylinder which came in around 30 pounds less than the rest. So I pulled the head expecting to see damage. I don't see any damage or scoring in cylinder?? Cylinder is as smooth as a baby's behind. I put new head gaskets on and it improved about 10 pounds. I did notice on the old head gasket that oil was on the bottom of gasket for that cylinder. Looks like oil was escaping from the cylinder. + +Could this possibly be a stuck ring? I was planning to hook a remote tank to it when I start it and load it up with sea foam. + +So basically, this cylinder is still about 20 pounds less than the rest? I don't think that is enough to give up on the motor quite yet?? + +Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!",With motors that are built with precision computer machined parts the 20 lbs missing is a concern.-------Sounds like you found out why it was sitting for these years.-----Perhaps it just needs a new piston / rings now.,With motors that are built with precision computer machined parts the 20 lbs missing is a concern.-------Sounds like you found out why it was sitting for these years.-----Perhaps it just needs a new piston / rings now.,"Hi Chris +The warning system on this has a seperate oil and water alarm on each engine. +The drive oil level is fine, the oil pressure gauge is reading normal and the water temp is definitly OK +I will try disconecting the reservoir tomorow and see what happens but I have already tried disconecting +the coolant temp sensor and the ECM coolant sensor. +Is there anything else you can think of aside from a grounded circut somewhere in the harness ? +Cheers +Peter" +"Hello. Glad to have found this forum and thanks for having me. + +I bought an older Aquasport (for the boat itself) with the understanding that the motor would not run and might need to be overhauled. Good thing is I don't have much in the whole rig at all. Figured I would go through motor before attempting to start it since it has been sitting for around 5 years. + +Carbs were a mess which I have redone. The initial compression check was good except for the top port cylinder which came in around 30 pounds less than the rest. So I pulled the head expecting to see damage. I don't see any damage or scoring in cylinder?? Cylinder is as smooth as a baby's behind. I put new head gaskets on and it improved about 10 pounds. I did notice on the old head gasket that oil was on the bottom of gasket for that cylinder. Looks like oil was escaping from the cylinder. + +Could this possibly be a stuck ring? I was planning to hook a remote tank to it when I start it and load it up with sea foam. + +So basically, this cylinder is still about 20 pounds less than the rest? I don't think that is enough to give up on the motor quite yet?? + +Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!","That may be the case. Going to get it back together and crank it up and decarb the heck out of that cylinder. Since that compression is only 20 pounds off from the rest, I would assume it will run fairly well being a V6?","That may be the case. Going to get it back together and crank it up and decarb the heck out of that cylinder. Since that compression is only 20 pounds off from the rest, I would assume it will run fairly well being a V6?",Checked the gear oil ? +I've got a 25 four stroke with a tiny bend in the prop shaft. It's so small you can barely see it when you look at it from behind and spin the prop. No vibration that I can tell. How much of a bent prop shaft can you get away with? The lower unit oil was a little milky when I changed it.,".005 "" Max.",".005 "" Max.","What kind of access do you have underneath? And how sound is the decking? Wood screws (Stainless) would do the trick but you can drill through and bolt it down, if you have access underneath." +"I've got a 2011 G3 16' aluminum boat with a Yamaha F90TLR engine. Bought the boat last summer and put it away in my shop. Noticed last fall that when the temp was above say 40-50* the tilt/trim would work fine. Now that it's below freezing (about 7 mos out of the year in MT!) it will not move. + +The relay makes a loud ""clicking"" sound when using the switch at the front and also the switch on the motor, but it doesn't move. + +What I've checked so far: + +When you turn that ""screw"" out that lets the pressure off the hydraulic cylinder, the motor smoothly goes up and down. However, when it's screwed all the way IN, the motor still freely falls down, is that typical?? + +I made heavy-gauge jumper wires to go from the battery ground to the unattached ground wire (black) off the relay and also from the positive on the battery to the blue ""up"" wire----nothing. Also tried the same with the down (green wire)---nothing. I also tried grounding to various bolts on the motor---still nothing. + +Checked the ground wire off the electric tilt/trim motor---wire in good shape with good clean connections. + +Bought a new relay off Ebay, swapped them out---still won't work. + +Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated!",What is the current battery voltage?,What is the current battery voltage?,"Now with new battery and rectifier volt gauge runs in the 16 to 18 range after about an hour it seems to quit charging or is it just laying in the 12 to 13 volt range,IE no fluctuation on the gauge at all like when you fist start it up. Any thoughts ?" +"I've got a 2011 G3 16' aluminum boat with a Yamaha F90TLR engine. Bought the boat last summer and put it away in my shop. Noticed last fall that when the temp was above say 40-50* the tilt/trim would work fine. Now that it's below freezing (about 7 mos out of the year in MT!) it will not move. + +The relay makes a loud ""clicking"" sound when using the switch at the front and also the switch on the motor, but it doesn't move. + +What I've checked so far: + +When you turn that ""screw"" out that lets the pressure off the hydraulic cylinder, the motor smoothly goes up and down. However, when it's screwed all the way IN, the motor still freely falls down, is that typical?? + +I made heavy-gauge jumper wires to go from the battery ground to the unattached ground wire (black) off the relay and also from the positive on the battery to the blue ""up"" wire----nothing. Also tried the same with the down (green wire)---nothing. I also tried grounding to various bolts on the motor---still nothing. + +Checked the ground wire off the electric tilt/trim motor---wire in good shape with good clean connections. + +Bought a new relay off Ebay, swapped them out---still won't work. + +Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated!",Any water in the system ?----Frozen perhaps ?,Any water in the system ?----Frozen perhaps ?,"It looks like you like are in fresh water. If it really bothers you then consider fabricating a setup for installing small shock absorbers at an angle between the axel and frame, then install softer springs." +"I've got a 2011 G3 16' aluminum boat with a Yamaha F90TLR engine. Bought the boat last summer and put it away in my shop. Noticed last fall that when the temp was above say 40-50* the tilt/trim would work fine. Now that it's below freezing (about 7 mos out of the year in MT!) it will not move. + +The relay makes a loud ""clicking"" sound when using the switch at the front and also the switch on the motor, but it doesn't move. + +What I've checked so far: + +When you turn that ""screw"" out that lets the pressure off the hydraulic cylinder, the motor smoothly goes up and down. However, when it's screwed all the way IN, the motor still freely falls down, is that typical?? + +I made heavy-gauge jumper wires to go from the battery ground to the unattached ground wire (black) off the relay and also from the positive on the battery to the blue ""up"" wire----nothing. Also tried the same with the down (green wire)---nothing. I also tried grounding to various bolts on the motor---still nothing. + +Checked the ground wire off the electric tilt/trim motor---wire in good shape with good clean connections. + +Bought a new relay off Ebay, swapped them out---still won't work. + +Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated!","I tried to check it with a borrowed multi-meter (that I'm not 100% sure how to use) and the numbers kept fluctuationg from about 13.5 volts to 18. It has enough juice to easily crank the motor, etc. + +I also made some jumper wires, and ran the postive to the blue and negative terminal to the green wires taken off the relay. I think this should raise the motor. Doesn't work. Also tried negative to blue and positive to green to lower, nothing happens. + +Wonder if the electric motor just suddenly died? Previously it would work when warm out, but when below 40 or so it won't work. Won't be above 40* here till probably May (gotta love Montana). + +Lastly, I thought with the hydraulic bypass screw all the way in, the motor would stay up (like a floor jack). But, it easily just falls back down.","I tried to check it with a borrowed multi-meter (that I'm not 100% sure how to use) and the numbers kept fluctuationg from about 13.5 volts to 18. It has enough juice to easily crank the motor, etc. + +I also made some jumper wires, and ran the postive to the blue and negative terminal to the green wires taken off the relay. I think this should raise the motor. Doesn't work. Also tried negative to blue and positive to green to lower, nothing happens. + +Wonder if the electric motor just suddenly died? Previously it would work when warm out, but when below 40 or so it won't work. Won't be above 40* here till probably May (gotta love Montana). + +Lastly, I thought with the hydraulic bypass screw all the way in, the motor would stay up (like a floor jack). But, it easily just falls back down.","Brian, +Google is most amazing... http://www.espar.com/www/espar.com/...ntrols/Digi Controller/Digi Controller EN.pdf + +contains updated instructions to adjust the default and allow continuous operation." +"I've got a 2011 G3 16' aluminum boat with a Yamaha F90TLR engine. Bought the boat last summer and put it away in my shop. Noticed last fall that when the temp was above say 40-50* the tilt/trim would work fine. Now that it's below freezing (about 7 mos out of the year in MT!) it will not move. + +The relay makes a loud ""clicking"" sound when using the switch at the front and also the switch on the motor, but it doesn't move. + +What I've checked so far: + +When you turn that ""screw"" out that lets the pressure off the hydraulic cylinder, the motor smoothly goes up and down. However, when it's screwed all the way IN, the motor still freely falls down, is that typical?? + +I made heavy-gauge jumper wires to go from the battery ground to the unattached ground wire (black) off the relay and also from the positive on the battery to the blue ""up"" wire----nothing. Also tried the same with the down (green wire)---nothing. I also tried grounding to various bolts on the motor---still nothing. + +Checked the ground wire off the electric tilt/trim motor---wire in good shape with good clean connections. + +Bought a new relay off Ebay, swapped them out---still won't work. + +Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated!","racerone said: + + + + Any water in the system ?----Frozen perhaps ? + +Click to expand... + + +No idea, not sure how I'd check that? Visually, everything looks like new---no corrosion or ANY signs of leaking fluid, etc.","racerone said: + + + + Any water in the system ?----Frozen perhaps ? + +Click to expand... + + +No idea, not sure how I'd check that? Visually, everything looks like new---no corrosion or ANY signs of leaking fluid, etc.","Check out any of the suppliers, such Marineengine.com, West Marine, Jamestown Supply, as they all have large switch selections. Example links below for reference. You can get anything your heart desires. + +http://www.marineengine.com/products/accessories.php?g=163 + +http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...tegoryDisplayLevel1&N=377+710+2011288&Ns=Most Popular|0&catalogId=10001&omniTag=Category%3aSwitches&viewTaskName=SiteSearchView + +http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...oryName~Electrical^categoryName~category_root" +"I've got a 2011 G3 16' aluminum boat with a Yamaha F90TLR engine. Bought the boat last summer and put it away in my shop. Noticed last fall that when the temp was above say 40-50* the tilt/trim would work fine. Now that it's below freezing (about 7 mos out of the year in MT!) it will not move. + +The relay makes a loud ""clicking"" sound when using the switch at the front and also the switch on the motor, but it doesn't move. + +What I've checked so far: + +When you turn that ""screw"" out that lets the pressure off the hydraulic cylinder, the motor smoothly goes up and down. However, when it's screwed all the way IN, the motor still freely falls down, is that typical?? + +I made heavy-gauge jumper wires to go from the battery ground to the unattached ground wire (black) off the relay and also from the positive on the battery to the blue ""up"" wire----nothing. Also tried the same with the down (green wire)---nothing. I also tried grounding to various bolts on the motor---still nothing. + +Checked the ground wire off the electric tilt/trim motor---wire in good shape with good clean connections. + +Bought a new relay off Ebay, swapped them out---still won't work. + +Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated!",Try putting it in a warm garage and test ?,Try putting it in a warm garage and test ?,"Ayuh,... what kinda motor,..??" +"I've got a 2011 G3 16' aluminum boat with a Yamaha F90TLR engine. Bought the boat last summer and put it away in my shop. Noticed last fall that when the temp was above say 40-50* the tilt/trim would work fine. Now that it's below freezing (about 7 mos out of the year in MT!) it will not move. + +The relay makes a loud ""clicking"" sound when using the switch at the front and also the switch on the motor, but it doesn't move. + +What I've checked so far: + +When you turn that ""screw"" out that lets the pressure off the hydraulic cylinder, the motor smoothly goes up and down. However, when it's screwed all the way IN, the motor still freely falls down, is that typical?? + +I made heavy-gauge jumper wires to go from the battery ground to the unattached ground wire (black) off the relay and also from the positive on the battery to the blue ""up"" wire----nothing. Also tried the same with the down (green wire)---nothing. I also tried grounding to various bolts on the motor---still nothing. + +Checked the ground wire off the electric tilt/trim motor---wire in good shape with good clean connections. + +Bought a new relay off Ebay, swapped them out---still won't work. + +Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated!","racerone said: + + + + Try putting it in a warm garage and test ? + +Click to expand... + + +The building it's in is unheated and it would take a small army of heaters to bring the temp up above 50* in there. Just trying to fix it during the off-season, which here in MT means COLD.","racerone said: + + + + Try putting it in a warm garage and test ? + +Click to expand... + + +The building it's in is unheated and it would take a small army of heaters to bring the temp up above 50* in there. Just trying to fix it during the off-season, which here in MT means COLD.",The switch or along its pathway. Grab a multimeter and drop volt test to locate the bug. It's grounding causing the false positive alarm. +"I've got a 2011 G3 16' aluminum boat with a Yamaha F90TLR engine. Bought the boat last summer and put it away in my shop. Noticed last fall that when the temp was above say 40-50* the tilt/trim would work fine. Now that it's below freezing (about 7 mos out of the year in MT!) it will not move. + +The relay makes a loud ""clicking"" sound when using the switch at the front and also the switch on the motor, but it doesn't move. + +What I've checked so far: + +When you turn that ""screw"" out that lets the pressure off the hydraulic cylinder, the motor smoothly goes up and down. However, when it's screwed all the way IN, the motor still freely falls down, is that typical?? + +I made heavy-gauge jumper wires to go from the battery ground to the unattached ground wire (black) off the relay and also from the positive on the battery to the blue ""up"" wire----nothing. Also tried the same with the down (green wire)---nothing. I also tried grounding to various bolts on the motor---still nothing. + +Checked the ground wire off the electric tilt/trim motor---wire in good shape with good clean connections. + +Bought a new relay off Ebay, swapped them out---still won't work. + +Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated!","Also if something had enough water in it to freeze, I'd think that I wouldn't be able to raise and lower it smoothly with the bypass screw open?","Also if something had enough water in it to freeze, I'd think that I wouldn't be able to raise and lower it smoothly with the bypass screw open?","Ayuh,.... Looks like welded rail,... Not an easy or cheap job,..." +"Hello + + +I opened a Yamaha 703 remote control box for the first time, to check wiring. I am now struggling to get the big cover plate back on properly. + + + +The key difficulty is that I am unable to line up the 1/4inch dia pin attached to the drum of the neutral throttle lever, with a slot in the metal plate of the main mechanism. + + +I have detached the throttle morse cable to make it easier to move the mechanism around, but still no luck in lining up the cam with either slot when I manage to have the little Roller sitting in it's Detente on the central drum. + + +There are two slots in the lower metal mechanism - a curved one and a shorter straight one. I don't know which of the two the neutral throttle pin must go into. +(When I removed the cover plate, it came off without any clues as to which slot the pin had been in. ) + + +I attach a photo showing the cover plate and the control box. The flash makes the photo not ideal, but it should still show the situation. + + + + + + +I was sure that there must be historical forum posts about this procedure, but despite doing a number of searches on the Yamaha Forum, could not locate any. +So I would much appreciate help from anyone knowing their way around the 703 Control and any tips on how to replace the back cover plate correctly. + + +Martin +(Note: Although I am unable to monitor this forum throughout the day, I WILL reply within 24h to each and every responder. I am very keen to get this control box back to working order, so appreciate any assistance.)","Update: I have now succeeded in getting the cover on, by: +1. Keep the main lever vertical +2. Keep the Idle speed lever flat +3. The pin attached to the Idle drum dropped into the ""curved"" slot on the lower mechanism. + +I was really aiming for the straight slot, because that was the slot used by a Youtube video I saw of a mechanic installing a 703, but it just seems very difficult to get my pin to the curved slot. + +Not yet tested the operation - will get to that soon and post outcome. + +Still keen to understand what the difference between using the curved and straight slots on the mechanism would be.","Update: I have now succeeded in getting the cover on, by: +1. Keep the main lever vertical +2. Keep the Idle speed lever flat +3. The pin attached to the Idle drum dropped into the ""curved"" slot on the lower mechanism. + +I was really aiming for the straight slot, because that was the slot used by a Youtube video I saw of a mechanic installing a 703, but it just seems very difficult to get my pin to the curved slot. + +Not yet tested the operation - will get to that soon and post outcome. + +Still keen to understand what the difference between using the curved and straight slots on the mechanism would be.","Thank you .I understand tge fuel side of the cooler routing. +My question is on the water side of the fuel cooler. +Where should the water line that serves the top of the cooler be connected to allow water to circulate? It being plugged doesnt make sense. +So, where does the water line that serves the top of the fuel cooler come from? +As mentioned in the original post, the water line from the bottom of the fuel cooler is connected to the same port that the water hose flush system is connected to where they meet the block on the starbiard side below the oil filter. + +So, the water that serves the fuel cooler must come from somewhere and then go somewhere. +One of those two locations is as mentioned above, below the fuel filter where it is connected to the garden hose flush line and then enters the block . +The second location is where? + +Thank you" +"I have a 1997 Yamaha 150hp VMAX PRO that starts easily and runs great until it get up to temp then it runs rough then shuts down. It will start right back up and run for a few and then the same die down. I had the carbs rebuilt and the end of last summer and had no problems, ran great but now the problems. i run non ethanol fuel in it and it has not set up long since we had a mild winter. Any suggestions on where to start a diagnosis, my marina said its probably a coil pac but need a second op","Runs rough? As in it's sputtering, missing, bogging down, losing power, etc. How does it sound when it's at temp and idling? When an outboard isn't performing as it should, 90% of the time it's fuel system related. So that's always the best place to start. + +Usually if a coil is in question, the engine will run noticeably different all the time. But it couldn't hurt to check it's volts. Below is the service manual for your engine. Chapter 8 describes the instructions for testing coils. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...uals/535-1997-yamaha-150v-175v-200v-225v/file","Runs rough? As in it's sputtering, missing, bogging down, losing power, etc. How does it sound when it's at temp and idling? When an outboard isn't performing as it should, 90% of the time it's fuel system related. So that's always the best place to start. + +Usually if a coil is in question, the engine will run noticeably different all the time. But it couldn't hurt to check it's volts. Below is the service manual for your engine. Chapter 8 describes the instructions for testing coils. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...uals/535-1997-yamaha-150v-175v-200v-225v/file","Well none of these things work except the trim gauge, and even then I have to hit the gauge a few times for it to work, so many blown bulbs and broken wires and pig tails and loose wires I'm not even gonna attempt, just gonna buy new gauges and call it a day" +"Model no. C25MSHT. + +I’m running a compression test on my outboard but I don’t know what the normal range of compression specs is. I know the two cylinders shouldn’t have more than a 10-15 psi difference. + +Anybody done this before or know the spec?",125-150 psi is good compression,125-150 psi is good compression,"Highly likely your meter won't have much accuracy in that span....typically, the primary side rarely fails on a standard ignition coil unless abused. + +If you still want to make the measurement, I'd suggest an indirect measurement: add another resistor to the primary, in series, and measure the voltage drop across it when you hook up the resistor and the coil to a battery. the voltage measurement is likely to be the most accurate measurement your meter can make..." +"Model no. C25MSHT. + +I’m running a compression test on my outboard but I don’t know what the normal range of compression specs is. I know the two cylinders shouldn’t have more than a 10-15 psi difference. + +Anybody done this before or know the spec?",Thanks. I got 135psi on both cylinders.,Thanks. I got 135psi on both cylinders.,"tilting the motor out a notch, will it in essence plane the boat level ? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Try each hole til ya find the one that works best,...." +"Model no. C25MSHT. + +I’m running a compression test on my outboard but I don’t know what the normal range of compression specs is. I know the two cylinders shouldn’t have more than a 10-15 psi difference. + +Anybody done this before or know the spec?",https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tih4o9-VJ2g&t=861s,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tih4o9-VJ2g&t=861s,"Ayuh,...... Does the t-stat housing have check-balls in 2 of the ports,..?? + +Are the check-balls barely touchin' the housin', 'n free to move about,..?? + +Merc has used a warm manifolds coolin' system, 'n a cold manifolds system,..... + +Mixin', 'n matchin' the two can cause these kinda problems,....." +"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuGZ3cmSPSE&index=27&list=FLBF6CEegwFUJ0g8dhUQKZhg + +Hello everyone! I write from Italy for the first time and I congratulate everyone for this beautiful forum! I write because I have a problem with my Yamaha 40 CV 2-stroke VETOL of 1997 that has the same problem of video on youtube. The Swedish owner of the video engine, could not fix it. Until today, no mechanic has managed to solve my problem that unfortunately does not always present itself. In fact, during the tests in the tank with the test propeller, the engine has always been fine. The fault occurs only during the sea trials and even in this case, it happens that the engine is good for some time and sometimes go wrong again. without warning. I replaced all the petrol tubes, filters and Jacks, I cleaned the carburetors without ever giving up. We replaced the control unit but we did not have any results ... A very strange thing: the stroboscopic pistol works up to 1500 rpm and then goes off, but the engine goes up to 5300 rpm. What could it be? Do you experience a similar defect? can you give me an advice? Thank you so much for the answers!","I had the same issue. Check the timing with an inductive light, does the spark jump? Number 3 will fire on #2 and visa versa? Turned out to be a rectifier issue.","I had the same issue. Check the timing with an inductive light, does the spark jump? Number 3 will fire on #2 and visa versa? Turned out to be a rectifier issue.",Even a cheap alternator is rated at 30 amps... a 6 amp dash draw ( lights on instruments on???) is beneath its notice. Look elsewhere. +"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuGZ3cmSPSE&index=27&list=FLBF6CEegwFUJ0g8dhUQKZhg + +Hello everyone! I write from Italy for the first time and I congratulate everyone for this beautiful forum! I write because I have a problem with my Yamaha 40 CV 2-stroke VETOL of 1997 that has the same problem of video on youtube. The Swedish owner of the video engine, could not fix it. Until today, no mechanic has managed to solve my problem that unfortunately does not always present itself. In fact, during the tests in the tank with the test propeller, the engine has always been fine. The fault occurs only during the sea trials and even in this case, it happens that the engine is good for some time and sometimes go wrong again. without warning. I replaced all the petrol tubes, filters and Jacks, I cleaned the carburetors without ever giving up. We replaced the control unit but we did not have any results ... A very strange thing: the stroboscopic pistol works up to 1500 rpm and then goes off, but the engine goes up to 5300 rpm. What could it be? Do you experience a similar defect? can you give me an advice? Thank you so much for the answers!",Thanks for the reply! Honestly it seems to me a little strange that this problem may depend on the rectifier. Could you explain better how the rectifier can affect the spark? Thanks again!,Thanks for the reply! Honestly it seems to me a little strange that this problem may depend on the rectifier. Could you explain better how the rectifier can affect the spark? Thanks again!,"Vire 12 boat engine sports Dynastart, example: https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/MTE5NVgxNjAw/z/iDsAAOSwAy5atSMN/$/Dynastart-NEW-dynostart-bosch-fits-Vire-6-7-12-_1.jpg + +Yeah, I'm measuring resistance. My electrics knowledge are so much limited, that in my world ""if there's no resistance between two nodes, they are in same potential""... + +As I mentioned, nothing is connected." +"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuGZ3cmSPSE&index=27&list=FLBF6CEegwFUJ0g8dhUQKZhg + +Hello everyone! I write from Italy for the first time and I congratulate everyone for this beautiful forum! I write because I have a problem with my Yamaha 40 CV 2-stroke VETOL of 1997 that has the same problem of video on youtube. The Swedish owner of the video engine, could not fix it. Until today, no mechanic has managed to solve my problem that unfortunately does not always present itself. In fact, during the tests in the tank with the test propeller, the engine has always been fine. The fault occurs only during the sea trials and even in this case, it happens that the engine is good for some time and sometimes go wrong again. without warning. I replaced all the petrol tubes, filters and Jacks, I cleaned the carburetors without ever giving up. We replaced the control unit but we did not have any results ... A very strange thing: the stroboscopic pistol works up to 1500 rpm and then goes off, but the engine goes up to 5300 rpm. What could it be? Do you experience a similar defect? can you give me an advice? Thank you so much for the answers!","Im not an electrician and ac/dc is my Achillies Heel. Spoke to a mechanic who told me that the system is looped together and that all current flows thru each componant. While the rectifier will continue to charge as it should, if it is faulty it can draw energy that is needed to fire other componants. Whether this is ture or not I dont know. All I know is that it was the problem. No other companant had any effect on on the ignition firing properly.","Im not an electrician and ac/dc is my Achillies Heel. Spoke to a mechanic who told me that the system is looped together and that all current flows thru each componant. While the rectifier will continue to charge as it should, if it is faulty it can draw energy that is needed to fire other componants. Whether this is ture or not I dont know. All I know is that it was the problem. No other companant had any effect on on the ignition firing properly.",what was the conclusion? +"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuGZ3cmSPSE&index=27&list=FLBF6CEegwFUJ0g8dhUQKZhg + +Hello everyone! I write from Italy for the first time and I congratulate everyone for this beautiful forum! I write because I have a problem with my Yamaha 40 CV 2-stroke VETOL of 1997 that has the same problem of video on youtube. The Swedish owner of the video engine, could not fix it. Until today, no mechanic has managed to solve my problem that unfortunately does not always present itself. In fact, during the tests in the tank with the test propeller, the engine has always been fine. The fault occurs only during the sea trials and even in this case, it happens that the engine is good for some time and sometimes go wrong again. without warning. I replaced all the petrol tubes, filters and Jacks, I cleaned the carburetors without ever giving up. We replaced the control unit but we did not have any results ... A very strange thing: the stroboscopic pistol works up to 1500 rpm and then goes off, but the engine goes up to 5300 rpm. What could it be? Do you experience a similar defect? can you give me an advice? Thank you so much for the answers!","BAS said: + + + + Im not an electrician and ac/dc is my Achillies Heel. Spoke to a mechanic who told me that the system is looped together and that all current flows thru each componant. While the rectifier will continue to charge as it should, if it is faulty it can draw energy that is needed to fire other componants. Whether this is ture or not I dont know. All I know is that it was the problem. No other companant had any effect on on the ignition firing properly. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you very Much for the answer! I Will check my outboard's rectifier, i Hope to find the solution...","BAS said: + + + + Im not an electrician and ac/dc is my Achillies Heel. Spoke to a mechanic who told me that the system is looped together and that all current flows thru each componant. While the rectifier will continue to charge as it should, if it is faulty it can draw energy that is needed to fire other componants. Whether this is ture or not I dont know. All I know is that it was the problem. No other companant had any effect on on the ignition firing properly. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you very Much for the answer! I Will check my outboard's rectifier, i Hope to find the solution...","I hope so capt! Either way it goes, imma have something....i think I have done all my checks and got all the info i need to have a great season....i dont feel you can have a bad boating season...you can have a expensive season with alot of repairs and mistakes....but its the love of boating that keeps us going...If you did not love it, you wouldent do it....!!!!!!!!! HAVE A GREAT BOATING SEASON EVERYONE AND ONCE AGAIN THANK YOU! + + Ken" +"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuGZ3cmSPSE&index=27&list=FLBF6CEegwFUJ0g8dhUQKZhg + +Hello everyone! I write from Italy for the first time and I congratulate everyone for this beautiful forum! I write because I have a problem with my Yamaha 40 CV 2-stroke VETOL of 1997 that has the same problem of video on youtube. The Swedish owner of the video engine, could not fix it. Until today, no mechanic has managed to solve my problem that unfortunately does not always present itself. In fact, during the tests in the tank with the test propeller, the engine has always been fine. The fault occurs only during the sea trials and even in this case, it happens that the engine is good for some time and sometimes go wrong again. without warning. I replaced all the petrol tubes, filters and Jacks, I cleaned the carburetors without ever giving up. We replaced the control unit but we did not have any results ... A very strange thing: the stroboscopic pistol works up to 1500 rpm and then goes off, but the engine goes up to 5300 rpm. What could it be? Do you experience a similar defect? can you give me an advice? Thank you so much for the answers!","When the problem occurs, do a cylinder drop test on it to see if you can find out what cyl is acting up.","When the problem occurs, do a cylinder drop test on it to see if you can find out what cyl is acting up.","Well, at least you've found the problem. Here is a vid I did on installing an impeller that may help: https://youtu.be/IqNk4P94wOs The other main trick is to make sure the blades of the impeller are bent in the correct direction for the rotation of your motor. + +Stuart" +"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuGZ3cmSPSE&index=27&list=FLBF6CEegwFUJ0g8dhUQKZhg + +Hello everyone! I write from Italy for the first time and I congratulate everyone for this beautiful forum! I write because I have a problem with my Yamaha 40 CV 2-stroke VETOL of 1997 that has the same problem of video on youtube. The Swedish owner of the video engine, could not fix it. Until today, no mechanic has managed to solve my problem that unfortunately does not always present itself. In fact, during the tests in the tank with the test propeller, the engine has always been fine. The fault occurs only during the sea trials and even in this case, it happens that the engine is good for some time and sometimes go wrong again. without warning. I replaced all the petrol tubes, filters and Jacks, I cleaned the carburetors without ever giving up. We replaced the control unit but we did not have any results ... A very strange thing: the stroboscopic pistol works up to 1500 rpm and then goes off, but the engine goes up to 5300 rpm. What could it be? Do you experience a similar defect? can you give me an advice? Thank you so much for the answers!","Thanks so much. Unfortunately, the engine does not always do the problem, we tried it indoor in the tank with the test propeller but it never lost power despite the various attempts. The same thing happened at sea. The engine is fine for a week and then suddenly the problem arises. The morning is fine and the afternoon no. The only strange thing found in the test tank is that with the inductive light we can detect the spark only at the minimum. If we accelerate beyond 1500 rpm, the signal disappears and the inductive light no longer detects anything. The engine, however, revs normally up to 5500 rpm pushing the test propeller with the right power. it's a mistery, obviously we tried three different inductive light instruments! What do you think about?","Thanks so much. Unfortunately, the engine does not always do the problem, we tried it indoor in the tank with the test propeller but it never lost power despite the various attempts. The same thing happened at sea. The engine is fine for a week and then suddenly the problem arises. The morning is fine and the afternoon no. The only strange thing found in the test tank is that with the inductive light we can detect the spark only at the minimum. If we accelerate beyond 1500 rpm, the signal disappears and the inductive light no longer detects anything. The engine, however, revs normally up to 5500 rpm pushing the test propeller with the right power. it's a mistery, obviously we tried three different inductive light instruments! What do you think about?","Hello,will these adjustments help my problem,94,2stroke,yam,115,idles to low to shift?" +"Hey guys I was referred to this website by a friend while we were talking about some work I want to do to my boat and outboard. I've got a '95 yamaha 25hp 2 smoker (model # C25MSHT) and there are three main things I want to do. 1) Clean and tune the carburetor to fix the starting and idling issues. 2) I'd really like to convert it to electric start. 3) Switch the throttle controls in the side console around because the guy I got the boat from has it setup backwards. I'll dive into each issue separately. + +1) Cleaning the carb is straight forward so I think I'm good there. When it comes to adjusting the jets/air mixture screws, are there any tips I should know? Quarter turn at a time? More/less than that? Will I need to adjust anything else after the idler jet has been adjusted? +I've tried tweaking the carb before and it seemed to work for the next two times I had it out but it went back to pitching a fit after that. + +2) I've done a lot of research on the electric start conversion and I feel like I just went in circles with it. I couldn't even determine if it was possible with my model because I'm not sure if they make a rotor assembly with the gear teeth on it or if the extra parts would fit under the cowling. I'll tell you what I do have. I already have a battery and master switch and the engine itself does NOT have the push button for electric start on it. I have two small solar panels charging the battery while I'm out on the water but I'd like to have it charging off the engine when running. Those panels can't keep up with the trolling motor and lights. + +3) The guy I got this boat from did a DIY side console mod. Well I'm not sure why he set it up like this but the throttle lever controls the gear shifting and the gear shifting lever controls the throttling. I'd like to change this around but it's not entirely necessary. I also want to put the kill switch assembly in the console. Am I right in thinking that I only have to splice in wire sections and move the assembly? Because that is a NO (normally open) switch and putting the kill switch in it closes the circuit to allow current flow? Only need to extend the wires to reach the console and maybe seal the hole on the front face of the engine. + +Any insight on any of the three subjects will be greatly appreciated. I can send pictures and give more information if anyone needs it. + +Thanks",Running issues ?---I would start with a compression test.-----Need to determine overall health of the motor before spending coins on electric start.,Running issues ?---I would start with a compression test.-----Need to determine overall health of the motor before spending coins on electric start.,"Runnin' more than one thread, in multiple forums causes confusion, 'n less answers,... + +Stick with yer 1st thread, 'n let this one die,..." +"Hey guys I was referred to this website by a friend while we were talking about some work I want to do to my boat and outboard. I've got a '95 yamaha 25hp 2 smoker (model # C25MSHT) and there are three main things I want to do. 1) Clean and tune the carburetor to fix the starting and idling issues. 2) I'd really like to convert it to electric start. 3) Switch the throttle controls in the side console around because the guy I got the boat from has it setup backwards. I'll dive into each issue separately. + +1) Cleaning the carb is straight forward so I think I'm good there. When it comes to adjusting the jets/air mixture screws, are there any tips I should know? Quarter turn at a time? More/less than that? Will I need to adjust anything else after the idler jet has been adjusted? +I've tried tweaking the carb before and it seemed to work for the next two times I had it out but it went back to pitching a fit after that. + +2) I've done a lot of research on the electric start conversion and I feel like I just went in circles with it. I couldn't even determine if it was possible with my model because I'm not sure if they make a rotor assembly with the gear teeth on it or if the extra parts would fit under the cowling. I'll tell you what I do have. I already have a battery and master switch and the engine itself does NOT have the push button for electric start on it. I have two small solar panels charging the battery while I'm out on the water but I'd like to have it charging off the engine when running. Those panels can't keep up with the trolling motor and lights. + +3) The guy I got this boat from did a DIY side console mod. Well I'm not sure why he set it up like this but the throttle lever controls the gear shifting and the gear shifting lever controls the throttling. I'd like to change this around but it's not entirely necessary. I also want to put the kill switch assembly in the console. Am I right in thinking that I only have to splice in wire sections and move the assembly? Because that is a NO (normally open) switch and putting the kill switch in it closes the circuit to allow current flow? Only need to extend the wires to reach the console and maybe seal the hole on the front face of the engine. + +Any insight on any of the three subjects will be greatly appreciated. I can send pictures and give more information if anyone needs it. + +Thanks","It runs fine once I get it started and warmed up. It's hard to get it warmed up with the idle speed being off. I have to sit there and play with the throttle for a several minutes before it reaches normal operating temp. Then it runs strong as long as I'm on the gas but as soon as I pull up to the dock and let the revs die to idling speed, it dies.","It runs fine once I get it started and warmed up. It's hard to get it warmed up with the idle speed being off. I have to sit there and play with the throttle for a several minutes before it reaches normal operating temp. Then it runs strong as long as I'm on the gas but as soon as I pull up to the dock and let the revs die to idling speed, it dies.","Success!! + +I reattached the lower unit and this time submerged it in the test tub well above the level of the pump and Viola! , it pumped beautifully and works like a charm. I was hoping that my issue was something simple and obvious. + +Thanks so much to all for your help, i" +"Hey guys I was referred to this website by a friend while we were talking about some work I want to do to my boat and outboard. I've got a '95 yamaha 25hp 2 smoker (model # C25MSHT) and there are three main things I want to do. 1) Clean and tune the carburetor to fix the starting and idling issues. 2) I'd really like to convert it to electric start. 3) Switch the throttle controls in the side console around because the guy I got the boat from has it setup backwards. I'll dive into each issue separately. + +1) Cleaning the carb is straight forward so I think I'm good there. When it comes to adjusting the jets/air mixture screws, are there any tips I should know? Quarter turn at a time? More/less than that? Will I need to adjust anything else after the idler jet has been adjusted? +I've tried tweaking the carb before and it seemed to work for the next two times I had it out but it went back to pitching a fit after that. + +2) I've done a lot of research on the electric start conversion and I feel like I just went in circles with it. I couldn't even determine if it was possible with my model because I'm not sure if they make a rotor assembly with the gear teeth on it or if the extra parts would fit under the cowling. I'll tell you what I do have. I already have a battery and master switch and the engine itself does NOT have the push button for electric start on it. I have two small solar panels charging the battery while I'm out on the water but I'd like to have it charging off the engine when running. Those panels can't keep up with the trolling motor and lights. + +3) The guy I got this boat from did a DIY side console mod. Well I'm not sure why he set it up like this but the throttle lever controls the gear shifting and the gear shifting lever controls the throttling. I'd like to change this around but it's not entirely necessary. I also want to put the kill switch assembly in the console. Am I right in thinking that I only have to splice in wire sections and move the assembly? Because that is a NO (normally open) switch and putting the kill switch in it closes the circuit to allow current flow? Only need to extend the wires to reach the console and maybe seal the hole on the front face of the engine. + +Any insight on any of the three subjects will be greatly appreciated. I can send pictures and give more information if anyone needs it. + +Thanks",I would say the motor needs more than carburetor work.----Some will argue that concept.----No money spent trouble shooting is a lost art.,I would say the motor needs more than carburetor work.----Some will argue that concept.----No money spent trouble shooting is a lost art.,Is it possible that this design just doesn't have the typical float being level with body measurement and float is intended to drop farther down? +"Hey guys I was referred to this website by a friend while we were talking about some work I want to do to my boat and outboard. I've got a '95 yamaha 25hp 2 smoker (model # C25MSHT) and there are three main things I want to do. 1) Clean and tune the carburetor to fix the starting and idling issues. 2) I'd really like to convert it to electric start. 3) Switch the throttle controls in the side console around because the guy I got the boat from has it setup backwards. I'll dive into each issue separately. + +1) Cleaning the carb is straight forward so I think I'm good there. When it comes to adjusting the jets/air mixture screws, are there any tips I should know? Quarter turn at a time? More/less than that? Will I need to adjust anything else after the idler jet has been adjusted? +I've tried tweaking the carb before and it seemed to work for the next two times I had it out but it went back to pitching a fit after that. + +2) I've done a lot of research on the electric start conversion and I feel like I just went in circles with it. I couldn't even determine if it was possible with my model because I'm not sure if they make a rotor assembly with the gear teeth on it or if the extra parts would fit under the cowling. I'll tell you what I do have. I already have a battery and master switch and the engine itself does NOT have the push button for electric start on it. I have two small solar panels charging the battery while I'm out on the water but I'd like to have it charging off the engine when running. Those panels can't keep up with the trolling motor and lights. + +3) The guy I got this boat from did a DIY side console mod. Well I'm not sure why he set it up like this but the throttle lever controls the gear shifting and the gear shifting lever controls the throttling. I'd like to change this around but it's not entirely necessary. I also want to put the kill switch assembly in the console. Am I right in thinking that I only have to splice in wire sections and move the assembly? Because that is a NO (normally open) switch and putting the kill switch in it closes the circuit to allow current flow? Only need to extend the wires to reach the console and maybe seal the hole on the front face of the engine. + +Any insight on any of the three subjects will be greatly appreciated. I can send pictures and give more information if anyone needs it. + +Thanks","I got the controls swapped around without issue. Now going to tackle the idling issue. Starting with a good top to bottom cleaning. Then I’ll start tuning the carburetor if it’s still not right. + +No ideas on the electric start?","I got the controls swapped around without issue. Now going to tackle the idling issue. Starting with a good top to bottom cleaning. Then I’ll start tuning the carburetor if it’s still not right. + +No ideas on the electric start?",This is the 2nd string on this motor....what it boils down to is we dont have enough information about the failure to help you...the first decision you have to make is it a fuel or a fire problem..you say water somewhere in the electrical is suspected...so does the engine have fire at the time of failure? +"hello everyone. first off new member and thank you for allowing me to join. I'm a captain down here in sw florida. I'm having problems with my Yamaha ox66 outboard. 9 times out of 10 she fires right off and runs great. one out of ten, however, shes slow to start and will spit and sputter, almost like shes not getting fuel. last week she refused to start and I had to be towed home. that was the first time shes left me stranded. we were about seven miles offshore in the gulf and were really lucky that a good Samaritan was willing to give us a hand. the motor is an '03 model ox66 saltwater series and is fuel injected. the plugs are new, the water separator is new, the motor has less than 800 hours on it and has always been maintained very well. I'm hoping its something silly that I can do myself. so anybody have any ideas? thanks for reading and thanks for any help or input.","Sounds like a classic fuel issue, make sure fuel is fresh and clean. Replace all filters including the one at the bottom the reservoir mounted on the port side of the engine (VST Filter). Also for the cost it's worth it to replace the low pressure fuel pumps also mounted on the port side of the engine. Also check all fuel lines and connections for air leaks and tight connections. Lastly it is always a good idea to check to make sure you have spark on each plug and also check compression before doing any repair. If you don't have spark or compression there is no sense in tearing apart the fuel system. On the other hand if you have solid spark and good compression the issue is likely fuel followed by ignition. (you can have spark and poor ignition if the engine is not sparking at the correct time) Please post results if you find out what the deal is...","Sounds like a classic fuel issue, make sure fuel is fresh and clean. Replace all filters including the one at the bottom the reservoir mounted on the port side of the engine (VST Filter). Also for the cost it's worth it to replace the low pressure fuel pumps also mounted on the port side of the engine. Also check all fuel lines and connections for air leaks and tight connections. Lastly it is always a good idea to check to make sure you have spark on each plug and also check compression before doing any repair. If you don't have spark or compression there is no sense in tearing apart the fuel system. On the other hand if you have solid spark and good compression the issue is likely fuel followed by ignition. (you can have spark and poor ignition if the engine is not sparking at the correct time) Please post results if you find out what the deal is...","Any Battery rated for marine use and with sufficient MCA is fine, very little difference in the way they are assembled. Warranty may be the only difference today." +"hello everyone. first off new member and thank you for allowing me to join. I'm a captain down here in sw florida. I'm having problems with my Yamaha ox66 outboard. 9 times out of 10 she fires right off and runs great. one out of ten, however, shes slow to start and will spit and sputter, almost like shes not getting fuel. last week she refused to start and I had to be towed home. that was the first time shes left me stranded. we were about seven miles offshore in the gulf and were really lucky that a good Samaritan was willing to give us a hand. the motor is an '03 model ox66 saltwater series and is fuel injected. the plugs are new, the water separator is new, the motor has less than 800 hours on it and has always been maintained very well. I'm hoping its something silly that I can do myself. so anybody have any ideas? thanks for reading and thanks for any help or input.",When you squeeze the primer ball does it get hard?,When you squeeze the primer ball does it get hard?,"if you would have read my post, i do have a bank charger, 2 charging leads +iam adding a 3rd.12 volt batty +one 12 volt for my gas engine starting +2-12 volt batteries, 2x12= 24 volts for my new 24 volt trolling motor +my question was, will the one charging lead charge both 12 volt battries that are wired in series ?" +"hi , i live in Australia and our year letters and model numbers are different to you guys in USA ? I was just wondering what was the best way to match the model numbers to yours , so we can buy the parts from USA FOR CHEAPER !!!!!! + +My Yamaha outboard is a 1996 (x ) v4 ceto 115hp +thanks guys","What is the complete engine ID? It will begin with the number 6. + +More than likely 6E5. There will then be a letter. L or X probably. Then there will be six or seven digits. The complete ID should be on a data plate affixed to the left hand clamp bracket. + +Once the complete ID is known I can tell you if there is a USA equivalent model. Which there probably will be.","What is the complete engine ID? It will begin with the number 6. + +More than likely 6E5. There will then be a letter. L or X probably. Then there will be six or seven digits. The complete ID should be on a data plate affixed to the left hand clamp bracket. + +Once the complete ID is known I can tell you if there is a USA equivalent model. Which there probably will be.",You need to fabricate an adapter using a tilt tube ( same part on many models / years ) from a newer motor.---Bolt it to the transom and you need a drag link as well.-----Or hurry to your friendly boat shop for a kit. +"hi , i live in Australia and our year letters and model numbers are different to you guys in USA ? I was just wondering what was the best way to match the model numbers to yours , so we can buy the parts from USA FOR CHEAPER !!!!!! + +My Yamaha outboard is a 1996 (x ) v4 ceto 115hp +thanks guys","Hi boscoe , details as follows + +6e5 UL 726691X + +good luck mate","Hi boscoe , details as follows + +6e5 UL 726691X + +good luck mate","Suggest change oil and only fill half way up the dipstick. +if the oil level climbs over use, I'd say that's your problem.+ +It will also smell like gas." +"hi , i live in Australia and our year letters and model numbers are different to you guys in USA ? I was just wondering what was the best way to match the model numbers to yours , so we can buy the parts from USA FOR CHEAPER !!!!!! + +My Yamaha outboard is a 1996 (x ) v4 ceto 115hp +thanks guys",Looks to be a 1993 model year 115CETO. Equivalent of a USA model 115TLRR. Particularly if it has an oil injection system installed. As opposed to using premix gasoline.,Looks to be a 1993 model year 115CETO. Equivalent of a USA model 115TLRR. Particularly if it has an oil injection system installed. As opposed to using premix gasoline.,I believe you are seeing the oil pressure switch which is used to turn on the light. +"Yamaha outboard v4 115 hp overheating !! +The boat ran excellent at full throttle all day, to we went thru a sandbar, and it sucked in a bit of sand and the overheat alarm came on !!!!!! +The outboard didn't perform after that, limping home with revs not exceeding 2,000rpm unless alarm will come on ? +I'm going to try a few things to rectify the overheating, that i've read from previous forums....... +Is it dangerous when flushing a Yamaha outboard on rectangle muffs, to put it in gear and rev it past the 2,000rpm to see if it still overheats after trying to rectify a few things ???? +Thanks","you need to drop lower gearcase and changeout waterpump,pull thermostats, Put hose on water tube,flush upwards,and flush downwards thru stats opening","you need to drop lower gearcase and changeout waterpump,pull thermostats, Put hose on water tube,flush upwards,and flush downwards thru stats opening","ClassicAQ said: + + + + 1st.....never ever never ever run up ur rpms in neutral. Any thing above 1500 and ur asking for trouble. Doing so provides no diagnostic value or outcome, thus is useless. + +When in gear ear and throttling up if the engine sounds deep throaty then this is fuel related, most likely clogged jet(s). Pull carbs, pull jets, soak, clear....check floats to spec, reassemble. + +Click to expand... + + +Yup your right I should of never run the engine that high in neutral. I did have the carbs pulled apart and soaked in seafoam/ gas as the carbs were gummed up then reassembled . The same problem persists , when I throttle up in gear it sounds like it's only running on a couple of cylinders then it cuts out and doesn't sound throaty . The mechanic I'm using seems to think electrical problem as its intermittent any other ideas would be helpful." +"Yamaha outboard v4 115 hp overheating !! +The boat ran excellent at full throttle all day, to we went thru a sandbar, and it sucked in a bit of sand and the overheat alarm came on !!!!!! +The outboard didn't perform after that, limping home with revs not exceeding 2,000rpm unless alarm will come on ? +I'm going to try a few things to rectify the overheating, that i've read from previous forums....... +Is it dangerous when flushing a Yamaha outboard on rectangle muffs, to put it in gear and rev it past the 2,000rpm to see if it still overheats after trying to rectify a few things ???? +Thanks",So flush upwards first then downwards thru tstats second ??,So flush upwards first then downwards thru tstats second ??,okay thanks will order the sensor +"My 2003 Yamaha 4 stroke with less than 300 hours loses power at 5,000 rpms. Idles great has plenty of power but sometimes at 5,000 rpms it has a sudden power loss and the tach falls back. Only last for a second and then goes back to normal. We have replaced about everything possible. Any ideas?",Do a cylinder drop test on it.,Do a cylinder drop test on it.,"johnnygjr said: + + + + we can only guesstimate, What type of boat,size, weight,load onboard,cargo etc Normally diameter and pitch are stamped on the rear part,closest to motor of propeller. Diameter can be roughly measured with 2 straight edges and a tape measure,your yamaha dealer might have a ballpark figure[/QUOTE + +2007 Carolina Skiff Sea chaser 175RG. Not sure about the weight + +Click to expand..." +"My 2003 Yamaha 4 stroke with less than 300 hours loses power at 5,000 rpms. Idles great has plenty of power but sometimes at 5,000 rpms it has a sudden power loss and the tach falls back. Only last for a second and then goes back to normal. We have replaced about everything possible. Any ideas?","Boobie said: + + + + Do a cylinder drop test on it. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks for your reply. It did have a power drop in the 1st cylinder and was replaced with a new cylinder head did not correct the problem.","Boobie said: + + + + Do a cylinder drop test on it. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks for your reply. It did have a power drop in the 1st cylinder and was replaced with a new cylinder head did not correct the problem.",Ok will do that +"I bought this boat last year,it's ALWAYS idled rough.I rebuild carbs even though they were spotless clean.I used Yamaha rebuild kit.STILL idles rough.Compression is perfect,new fuel pump and hose,I've tried different premix ratios ,everything from 50:1 to 100:1,same thing,idles rough.Its at a boat mechanic now and he's tried everything,STILL idles rough.Its a 1990 Yamaha cv40eld twin cylinder ,2 carb ..Any ideas??It runs great at higher speeds,just idles rough and hesitates just a little while taking off..","Sounds like a an issue with low speed settings or timing. Those C40e were pretty bullet proof however, they were designed to be commercial engines that were loud and never idled ""clean"". DO NOT THIN FUEL BELOW OR ABOVE THE MANU SPEC! (Dont mean to yell but always follow protocol) Check the spark and make sure you are getting good spark that jumps at least 9mm. If that's good go over the fuel system and set idle screws at 1.25 turns off bottom. When you rebuilt the carbs did you make sure the floats were level to spec? After going over the fuel system check the spark with a light and make sure she is firing at the correct time. I just went through this with a rectifier. The #2 and #3 cyls were firing on each other's time. It was the rectifier that while charging was messing the rest of the ign system up.","Sounds like a an issue with low speed settings or timing. Those C40e were pretty bullet proof however, they were designed to be commercial engines that were loud and never idled ""clean"". DO NOT THIN FUEL BELOW OR ABOVE THE MANU SPEC! (Dont mean to yell but always follow protocol) Check the spark and make sure you are getting good spark that jumps at least 9mm. If that's good go over the fuel system and set idle screws at 1.25 turns off bottom. When you rebuilt the carbs did you make sure the floats were level to spec? After going over the fuel system check the spark with a light and make sure she is firing at the correct time. I just went through this with a rectifier. The #2 and #3 cyls were firing on each other's time. It was the rectifier that while charging was messing the rest of the ign system up.","bama said: + + + + I took it out today and it went over 17 at WOT. I will check my Helix 7 voltage range. I don't mind putting in a regulator, but mine has a lot more wires than the links posted by boscoe. I am mostly worried about messing up and breaking something else. I never worried before I installed a voltmeter in the dash on this boat and I think it was possible that my last motor was putting out a lot of volts. Sometimes, knowing about something makes it more likely to break. + +Click to expand... + +Your lighting coil has but two wires. Both green. Two wires into the rectifier/regulator and two wires (one black, one red) out." +"I have a c40tlrx that is running poorly. I have rebuilt the carbs and set needles to factory spec at 1.5 turns, new fuel pump, new fuel lines with new clamps and connector and cleaned the fuel tank and tested for air leaks and vent clearance. Seems to be getting fuel. It is bogging down like it needs fuel at all throttle ranges but at <1000rpm it backfires and wants to conk out at <800 rpm. Another tell tale is the sooty oily residue it is spewing. Compression is 124/123/124. Using a factory service manual and peak voltage Multi Meter (DVA) I went through the trouble shoot sequence listed. +1-Checked SP gap at .10, good. Tested spark at 9mm good and bright +*2-CDI Output- cranking spec is 125v I was showing 9.5-11.5v, I tried switching between ac and dc and got the same and got sevral readings ranging from 200v-400v on AC +3-Measured coil output @ cranking and was 145v, good +*4-Measure Pulser Coil- Get different readings on each pin, 7.9v-9.4v-15.1v (spec is 3.0v @ cranking) + +* This is my issue: the CDI output and Pulser coils utilize a three pin harness, which I dont have so I tested the pins individually. Can I assume that these readings are correct or incorrect. Shade Tree ""Algebra Kicked My Ass"" Logic tells me that each pin is responsible for firing a specified (same or close to same for each) charge thru its circuit to fire the coil that in turn fires a charge to the plug and that reading should be obtainable from each pin, however, this being the world of outboards is similar to the platypus in which all scientific rules are tossed! lol +Question: Can I use individual pins to test the elements as per specification or do I have to purchase a test harness adding $50 to the cost of what, based on my backyard analysis and the manual say, to be a screwed up CDI? ($400-$500! ouch) +Followup if yes I need a harness, Can I make a harness that essentially allows me to read the three pins on one red MM test lead and then ground the black MM lead to the engine block? Im assuming if I do that I could possibly backfeed, for lack of a better term, each of the circuits and then I will definitely need a new CDI which while I would know that the CDI is f'd I would still have the original issue lol +On one other note I did run the engine without the R/R plugged in and it still ran like crap! I was hoping that was the issue... no dice","Bogging is usually fuel related. As in not enough fuel for the amount of air. Backfiring is a symptom of a lean mixture. As in not enough gasoline for the amount of air. + +I would have someone start misting some gasoline into the air intake system at about the time the motor starts to bog down. See if the motor picks up and runs with some misted gasoline being provided. + +Carburetors are known to be problematic. Yamaha electrics are known to be very reliable. There are orifices (holes) and passageways within carburetors that are damn near impossible to get clean.","Bogging is usually fuel related. As in not enough fuel for the amount of air. Backfiring is a symptom of a lean mixture. As in not enough gasoline for the amount of air. + +I would have someone start misting some gasoline into the air intake system at about the time the motor starts to bog down. See if the motor picks up and runs with some misted gasoline being provided. + +Carburetors are known to be problematic. Yamaha electrics are known to be very reliable. There are orifices (holes) and passageways within carburetors that are damn near impossible to get clean.","modelt said: + + + + i decided to go with the 1 cooler, mainly to hold my minnows. +i mostly catch and release anyway, and who really wants to eat anything caught in any waters today ? +with all of the acid rain, chemical wash off + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... I like eatin' fish, 'n ain't to worried 'bout it,....." +"I have a c40tlrx that is running poorly. I have rebuilt the carbs and set needles to factory spec at 1.5 turns, new fuel pump, new fuel lines with new clamps and connector and cleaned the fuel tank and tested for air leaks and vent clearance. Seems to be getting fuel. It is bogging down like it needs fuel at all throttle ranges but at <1000rpm it backfires and wants to conk out at <800 rpm. Another tell tale is the sooty oily residue it is spewing. Compression is 124/123/124. Using a factory service manual and peak voltage Multi Meter (DVA) I went through the trouble shoot sequence listed. +1-Checked SP gap at .10, good. Tested spark at 9mm good and bright +*2-CDI Output- cranking spec is 125v I was showing 9.5-11.5v, I tried switching between ac and dc and got the same and got sevral readings ranging from 200v-400v on AC +3-Measured coil output @ cranking and was 145v, good +*4-Measure Pulser Coil- Get different readings on each pin, 7.9v-9.4v-15.1v (spec is 3.0v @ cranking) + +* This is my issue: the CDI output and Pulser coils utilize a three pin harness, which I dont have so I tested the pins individually. Can I assume that these readings are correct or incorrect. Shade Tree ""Algebra Kicked My Ass"" Logic tells me that each pin is responsible for firing a specified (same or close to same for each) charge thru its circuit to fire the coil that in turn fires a charge to the plug and that reading should be obtainable from each pin, however, this being the world of outboards is similar to the platypus in which all scientific rules are tossed! lol +Question: Can I use individual pins to test the elements as per specification or do I have to purchase a test harness adding $50 to the cost of what, based on my backyard analysis and the manual say, to be a screwed up CDI? ($400-$500! ouch) +Followup if yes I need a harness, Can I make a harness that essentially allows me to read the three pins on one red MM test lead and then ground the black MM lead to the engine block? Im assuming if I do that I could possibly backfeed, for lack of a better term, each of the circuits and then I will definitely need a new CDI which while I would know that the CDI is f'd I would still have the original issue lol +On one other note I did run the engine without the R/R plugged in and it still ran like crap! I was hoping that was the issue... no dice","*Update* +Went and got a timing light and shot all cylinders, observed flashes. +#1- Good steady light with a small hiccup that was not very noticable +#2- 10-15 shot pattern then a noticeable break in flashes +#3- 10-15 shot pattern then a noticeable break in flashes +Put light on flywheel. Set motor at full retard: +#1- Mostly at 7d ATDC with an intermittent bounce every 5-10 sec that moved to 8-10d ATDC returning to 7d ATDC +#2- Hahahaha... bouncing between 7d ATDC on #2cyl and 7d ATDC on #3 cyl with some flat spots that would be indicative of a dropped cyl +#3- Bouncing between ATDC on #2 and #3 cyl's +This leads me to believe the CDI is sending poor information. I forgot to mention in the original post that I also bench tested the 3 coils and they all were in spec. +Boscoe, I did a pretty good cleaning on the carbs twice. Full rebuilds both times with overnight soaking in Napa carb cleaner and comp air blow out. I'm not sure if a fuel system issue would lead to cylinders dropping, do you think this is the case? +Anyone, I think it's the CDI, all other ign components are in spec per Yamaha's factory service manual for this engine. Id love to save a few hundred bucks, but it's duck season here and for the first time in decades it's cold, really cold up north pushing the birds past DU's short stop points in IO, MO and AR! (Relax that's a joke) I gotta get this bad boy back on the water!","*Update* +Went and got a timing light and shot all cylinders, observed flashes. +#1- Good steady light with a small hiccup that was not very noticable +#2- 10-15 shot pattern then a noticeable break in flashes +#3- 10-15 shot pattern then a noticeable break in flashes +Put light on flywheel. Set motor at full retard: +#1- Mostly at 7d ATDC with an intermittent bounce every 5-10 sec that moved to 8-10d ATDC returning to 7d ATDC +#2- Hahahaha... bouncing between 7d ATDC on #2cyl and 7d ATDC on #3 cyl with some flat spots that would be indicative of a dropped cyl +#3- Bouncing between ATDC on #2 and #3 cyl's +This leads me to believe the CDI is sending poor information. I forgot to mention in the original post that I also bench tested the 3 coils and they all were in spec. +Boscoe, I did a pretty good cleaning on the carbs twice. Full rebuilds both times with overnight soaking in Napa carb cleaner and comp air blow out. I'm not sure if a fuel system issue would lead to cylinders dropping, do you think this is the case? +Anyone, I think it's the CDI, all other ign components are in spec per Yamaha's factory service manual for this engine. Id love to save a few hundred bucks, but it's duck season here and for the first time in decades it's cold, really cold up north pushing the birds past DU's short stop points in IO, MO and AR! (Relax that's a joke) I gotta get this bad boy back on the water!","Hi Kimcrwbr1: + +Thank you for you reply. Stay tuned in. I will keep you informed. No one got hurt. I made the decision. Everyone had a great fishing experience. You have to know little more about our remoteness before you can pass judgment. We are kind of new at this. next year will be our +47th year in business. But it was our first year of bad fuel. There is always a new adventure to deal with. oh yeah I forgot There were no bucks saved not even two. + +Once again thank you for your reply" +"I have a c40tlrx that is running poorly. I have rebuilt the carbs and set needles to factory spec at 1.5 turns, new fuel pump, new fuel lines with new clamps and connector and cleaned the fuel tank and tested for air leaks and vent clearance. Seems to be getting fuel. It is bogging down like it needs fuel at all throttle ranges but at <1000rpm it backfires and wants to conk out at <800 rpm. Another tell tale is the sooty oily residue it is spewing. Compression is 124/123/124. Using a factory service manual and peak voltage Multi Meter (DVA) I went through the trouble shoot sequence listed. +1-Checked SP gap at .10, good. Tested spark at 9mm good and bright +*2-CDI Output- cranking spec is 125v I was showing 9.5-11.5v, I tried switching between ac and dc and got the same and got sevral readings ranging from 200v-400v on AC +3-Measured coil output @ cranking and was 145v, good +*4-Measure Pulser Coil- Get different readings on each pin, 7.9v-9.4v-15.1v (spec is 3.0v @ cranking) + +* This is my issue: the CDI output and Pulser coils utilize a three pin harness, which I dont have so I tested the pins individually. Can I assume that these readings are correct or incorrect. Shade Tree ""Algebra Kicked My Ass"" Logic tells me that each pin is responsible for firing a specified (same or close to same for each) charge thru its circuit to fire the coil that in turn fires a charge to the plug and that reading should be obtainable from each pin, however, this being the world of outboards is similar to the platypus in which all scientific rules are tossed! lol +Question: Can I use individual pins to test the elements as per specification or do I have to purchase a test harness adding $50 to the cost of what, based on my backyard analysis and the manual say, to be a screwed up CDI? ($400-$500! ouch) +Followup if yes I need a harness, Can I make a harness that essentially allows me to read the three pins on one red MM test lead and then ground the black MM lead to the engine block? Im assuming if I do that I could possibly backfeed, for lack of a better term, each of the circuits and then I will definitely need a new CDI which while I would know that the CDI is f'd I would still have the original issue lol +On one other note I did run the engine without the R/R plugged in and it still ran like crap! I was hoping that was the issue... no dice","OOPS! I forgot to give the specs @ 3000 rpm +#1-18d btdc with a hiccup +#2- 15-22d btdc on #2cyl and a fire on #3 cyl but to fast for me to read, just enough time to see it flash on #3 mark +#3- Pretty much same as #2 cyl","OOPS! I forgot to give the specs @ 3000 rpm +#1-18d btdc with a hiccup +#2- 15-22d btdc on #2cyl and a fire on #3 cyl but to fast for me to read, just enough time to see it flash on #3 mark +#3- Pretty much same as #2 cyl","Just changed primer bulb, and 5000 rpm at once. Seems that it's fixed i hope" +"I have a c40tlrx that is running poorly. I have rebuilt the carbs and set needles to factory spec at 1.5 turns, new fuel pump, new fuel lines with new clamps and connector and cleaned the fuel tank and tested for air leaks and vent clearance. Seems to be getting fuel. It is bogging down like it needs fuel at all throttle ranges but at <1000rpm it backfires and wants to conk out at <800 rpm. Another tell tale is the sooty oily residue it is spewing. Compression is 124/123/124. Using a factory service manual and peak voltage Multi Meter (DVA) I went through the trouble shoot sequence listed. +1-Checked SP gap at .10, good. Tested spark at 9mm good and bright +*2-CDI Output- cranking spec is 125v I was showing 9.5-11.5v, I tried switching between ac and dc and got the same and got sevral readings ranging from 200v-400v on AC +3-Measured coil output @ cranking and was 145v, good +*4-Measure Pulser Coil- Get different readings on each pin, 7.9v-9.4v-15.1v (spec is 3.0v @ cranking) + +* This is my issue: the CDI output and Pulser coils utilize a three pin harness, which I dont have so I tested the pins individually. Can I assume that these readings are correct or incorrect. Shade Tree ""Algebra Kicked My Ass"" Logic tells me that each pin is responsible for firing a specified (same or close to same for each) charge thru its circuit to fire the coil that in turn fires a charge to the plug and that reading should be obtainable from each pin, however, this being the world of outboards is similar to the platypus in which all scientific rules are tossed! lol +Question: Can I use individual pins to test the elements as per specification or do I have to purchase a test harness adding $50 to the cost of what, based on my backyard analysis and the manual say, to be a screwed up CDI? ($400-$500! ouch) +Followup if yes I need a harness, Can I make a harness that essentially allows me to read the three pins on one red MM test lead and then ground the black MM lead to the engine block? Im assuming if I do that I could possibly backfeed, for lack of a better term, each of the circuits and then I will definitely need a new CDI which while I would know that the CDI is f'd I would still have the original issue lol +On one other note I did run the engine without the R/R plugged in and it still ran like crap! I was hoping that was the issue... no dice","Might be the CDI. Give it a try. Let us know if it works please. + +http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=YAM63D-85540-04-00","Might be the CDI. Give it a try. Let us know if it works please. + +http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=YAM63D-85540-04-00","I'm wondering why the pump kit you replaced failed. I mean they do wear and either the rubber impeller or gasket will erode, or both....but you would see this when disassembling. Hard to miss black shredded rubber debris. + +As as the previous member stated, even if you've got blockage in the cooling system you'll still get water out the t/t as its the path of least resistance. Only a few things that could be the issue w/no water after replacing kit....impeller not engaged w/woodruff key, housing tube gasket is missing, or mid section water tube not linked w/housing. Troubleshoot from l/u up....water intake, drive shaft turn key, key turns impeller, impeller propels water thru housing, thru water tube, thru t/t." +"I have a c40tlrx that is running poorly. I have rebuilt the carbs and set needles to factory spec at 1.5 turns, new fuel pump, new fuel lines with new clamps and connector and cleaned the fuel tank and tested for air leaks and vent clearance. Seems to be getting fuel. It is bogging down like it needs fuel at all throttle ranges but at <1000rpm it backfires and wants to conk out at <800 rpm. Another tell tale is the sooty oily residue it is spewing. Compression is 124/123/124. Using a factory service manual and peak voltage Multi Meter (DVA) I went through the trouble shoot sequence listed. +1-Checked SP gap at .10, good. Tested spark at 9mm good and bright +*2-CDI Output- cranking spec is 125v I was showing 9.5-11.5v, I tried switching between ac and dc and got the same and got sevral readings ranging from 200v-400v on AC +3-Measured coil output @ cranking and was 145v, good +*4-Measure Pulser Coil- Get different readings on each pin, 7.9v-9.4v-15.1v (spec is 3.0v @ cranking) + +* This is my issue: the CDI output and Pulser coils utilize a three pin harness, which I dont have so I tested the pins individually. Can I assume that these readings are correct or incorrect. Shade Tree ""Algebra Kicked My Ass"" Logic tells me that each pin is responsible for firing a specified (same or close to same for each) charge thru its circuit to fire the coil that in turn fires a charge to the plug and that reading should be obtainable from each pin, however, this being the world of outboards is similar to the platypus in which all scientific rules are tossed! lol +Question: Can I use individual pins to test the elements as per specification or do I have to purchase a test harness adding $50 to the cost of what, based on my backyard analysis and the manual say, to be a screwed up CDI? ($400-$500! ouch) +Followup if yes I need a harness, Can I make a harness that essentially allows me to read the three pins on one red MM test lead and then ground the black MM lead to the engine block? Im assuming if I do that I could possibly backfeed, for lack of a better term, each of the circuits and then I will definitely need a new CDI which while I would know that the CDI is f'd I would still have the original issue lol +On one other note I did run the engine without the R/R plugged in and it still ran like crap! I was hoping that was the issue... no dice","It's been a while and I thought I would give an update on what the issue was... +First let me say that due to the age of the engine and it's generally good mechanical condition I decided to replace the ignition system including CDI. At close to 20 years I figured stuff was due and with each repair would come another spent part. That said after each component I replaced I would run and test, sadly everything I replaced had no effect on the performance issue! I replaced in this order: +pulser coil +charge coil +cdi +each ignition coil (3) +plugs +After all that I was thinking it was possible that a fouled carburation system could indeed cause timing to be thrown off. +I spoke to a friend who is a mechanic who said to check the rectifier. ""Wut, it is delivering 13.5v at 1000rpm and goes up to 15v as throttle increases"". He said that the rectifier does some other stuff that will throw the ignition off yet still perform as it should charging the batteries. Part was cheap enough, so what the heck, I just spent close to $1000 on the rest of the ignition system what's another $65? Replace rectifier and BOOM! engine runs as it should, all readings in spec and with a few idle adjustments, everything is gtg. Now off to catch some Sacalait!","It's been a while and I thought I would give an update on what the issue was... +First let me say that due to the age of the engine and it's generally good mechanical condition I decided to replace the ignition system including CDI. At close to 20 years I figured stuff was due and with each repair would come another spent part. That said after each component I replaced I would run and test, sadly everything I replaced had no effect on the performance issue! I replaced in this order: +pulser coil +charge coil +cdi +each ignition coil (3) +plugs +After all that I was thinking it was possible that a fouled carburation system could indeed cause timing to be thrown off. +I spoke to a friend who is a mechanic who said to check the rectifier. ""Wut, it is delivering 13.5v at 1000rpm and goes up to 15v as throttle increases"". He said that the rectifier does some other stuff that will throw the ignition off yet still perform as it should charging the batteries. Part was cheap enough, so what the heck, I just spent close to $1000 on the rest of the ignition system what's another $65? Replace rectifier and BOOM! engine runs as it should, all readings in spec and with a few idle adjustments, everything is gtg. Now off to catch some Sacalait!","The previous owner just replaced the transom so that is why I think its leaking there. + + + +bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,..... You can try that, but generally speakin', yer seein' signs of a rotten transom,.... + +Click to expand..." +"I was cruising down the lake at full throttle and suddenly the motor lost all electrical power. The tilt/trim wouldn't work either. This is on a Carolina skiff with a 2014 Yamaha F70 4-stroke. The gages worked, and showed I had 13v on the battery. I took the cowling off and checked the fuses and wires to the starter/ect.; Nothing was loose. Tried the ignition and it worked. Shut it off, put the cowling back on and it was dead again. I repeated this process several times and made up new dictionary curse words. Finally was so dumbfounded with it that we drove back to the ramp with the cowling off. Then, to add insult to injury, when I had it back on the trailer I put the cowling on and tried the trim/tilt and it worked just fine. Ran it with earmuffs back in my driveway both with the cowling and without, poking around and wiggling every visible wire and connection but I couldn't reproduce the problem! +Any ideas on what to focus my investigation on? Many thanks in advance!","Start at the battery connections and move forward from there, especially the grounds.","Start at the battery connections and move forward from there, especially the grounds.",",Ayuh,..... CB is am, VHF is fm,..." +"I was cruising down the lake at full throttle and suddenly the motor lost all electrical power. The tilt/trim wouldn't work either. This is on a Carolina skiff with a 2014 Yamaha F70 4-stroke. The gages worked, and showed I had 13v on the battery. I took the cowling off and checked the fuses and wires to the starter/ect.; Nothing was loose. Tried the ignition and it worked. Shut it off, put the cowling back on and it was dead again. I repeated this process several times and made up new dictionary curse words. Finally was so dumbfounded with it that we drove back to the ramp with the cowling off. Then, to add insult to injury, when I had it back on the trailer I put the cowling on and tried the trim/tilt and it worked just fine. Ran it with earmuffs back in my driveway both with the cowling and without, poking around and wiggling every visible wire and connection but I couldn't reproduce the problem! +Any ideas on what to focus my investigation on? Many thanks in advance!",Intermittent faults are always wiring related. Sand all grounds metal to metal. Clean all connectors with electrical cleaner and put back together with dielectric grease. I like to do a few connectors at a time so you have an idea where the fault was.,Intermittent faults are always wiring related. Sand all grounds metal to metal. Clean all connectors with electrical cleaner and put back together with dielectric grease. I like to do a few connectors at a time so you have an idea where the fault was.,"its not the legality you have to worry about, its structure. You're looking at nearly doubling the recommended horsepower, which is probably more than the boat can handle. It might be fine for a short time, but between the thrust force and the vibration you're gonna crack your transom." +"I was cruising down the lake at full throttle and suddenly the motor lost all electrical power. The tilt/trim wouldn't work either. This is on a Carolina skiff with a 2014 Yamaha F70 4-stroke. The gages worked, and showed I had 13v on the battery. I took the cowling off and checked the fuses and wires to the starter/ect.; Nothing was loose. Tried the ignition and it worked. Shut it off, put the cowling back on and it was dead again. I repeated this process several times and made up new dictionary curse words. Finally was so dumbfounded with it that we drove back to the ramp with the cowling off. Then, to add insult to injury, when I had it back on the trailer I put the cowling on and tried the trim/tilt and it worked just fine. Ran it with earmuffs back in my driveway both with the cowling and without, poking around and wiggling every visible wire and connection but I couldn't reproduce the problem! +Any ideas on what to focus my investigation on? Many thanks in advance!","I think I just found the problem, although I won't know for sure until it happens again! I was wiggling wires again and I noticed the main ground cable that mounts near the starter was a little loose. I wiggled it while using the trim switch and it actually sparked. So I cranked it back down. It must have been loose enough to not pass enough voltage, and the wire runs near the cowling so it probably moved into the perfect spot to lose contact. I'm hoping that's the end to this story. Thanks","I think I just found the problem, although I won't know for sure until it happens again! I was wiggling wires again and I noticed the main ground cable that mounts near the starter was a little loose. I wiggled it while using the trim switch and it actually sparked. So I cranked it back down. It must have been loose enough to not pass enough voltage, and the wire runs near the cowling so it probably moved into the perfect spot to lose contact. I'm hoping that's the end to this story. Thanks",I think just a rectifier/regulator. At least that is what was on my old Johnson 200. +"Hi Ive got a 96 v4 yamaha 115hp and wondering about torque settings on various sections ? + +1.Thermostat torque in nm( they both have cracked near the number 1 bolt ????) +2. Waterpump housing in nm +3. Cylinder head section, with head gasket in it in nm + +Ive read somewhere that they show the torque on the casing somewhere ?It also has numbers on the bolts ie thermostat bolts have 8 - does this mean 8nm torque, so start with 4 nm follow the sequence, then tighten to 8 nm ???? + +confused please help +thanks guys","The number on the bolt has nothing to do with the torque setting. It denotes the size of the bolt in mm. + +The torque values are listed in the applicable service manual. In Nm and lb-ft. + +Some heads will show the torque sequence. Most two heads are torqued twice. Once to an initial value and then a second time to the final value.","The number on the bolt has nothing to do with the torque setting. It denotes the size of the bolt in mm. + +The torque values are listed in the applicable service manual. In Nm and lb-ft. + +Some heads will show the torque sequence. Most two heads are torqued twice. Once to an initial value and then a second time to the final value.",Do you mean take em apart and clean? +"Hi Ive got a 96 v4 yamaha 115hp and wondering about torque settings on various sections ? + +1.Thermostat torque in nm( they both have cracked near the number 1 bolt ????) +2. Waterpump housing in nm +3. Cylinder head section, with head gasket in it in nm + +Ive read somewhere that they show the torque on the casing somewhere ?It also has numbers on the bolts ie thermostat bolts have 8 - does this mean 8nm torque, so start with 4 nm follow the sequence, then tighten to 8 nm ???? + +confused please help +thanks guys",Thanks for that it makes sense now !,Thanks for that it makes sense now !,"Have you checked the fluid level in the trim system? Sounds like it's very low on fluid as it pumps so much and stops while the motor keeps running as it can't build more pressure. Check to see that it is fully filled. If not, fill it and cycle up and down while checking for any leaks throughout the hydraulic lines as it must have leaked somewhere. The hydraulic fluid doesn't vanish or burn away so I'd say there is a leak in the system somewhere if it is low. Unless you find the leak, it will work for a while and then you'll run into the same thing as the level gradually drops and you'll find when trying to trim up it will stop at lower and lower angles of trim.Google ""changing fluid on yamaha outboard power trim"" and you'll find lots of info and videos how to check and do it." +"We have a customer with a Yamaha VF225LA SHO VMAX engine that keeps breaking blades on the propellers. They purchased the engine last January (2017) to repower a 2010 Ranger 2050 Reatta. The dealership installed a 20"" motor on a 25"" transom, so they have to lower the jack plate all the way so that it will work. In the 13 months that they've had the boat, they've slung a blade off of 4 props, and spun the hub out of a fifth. The blades have all cracked on the trailing, cupped edge right at the hub. The props have shown no evidence of striking anything. The propeller that was originally installed, and that we've used to replace it, was a MAR-GYT3B-V6-22 Stainless. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is causing this? Should they be using a different propeller? If it was just one prop, I'd say it was just a manufacturing defect. But, to have this many failures in such a short period of time. Any help that can be provided will be greatly appreciated. + +Thanks, +Harold","Strange indeed. First Im hearing of such an anomaly. Needless to say but worth mentioning, why purchase a boat whose engines shaft length differs from transom length. Be that as it may, this isn't the cause of cracked prop blades. Applying what I know of physics, apllied force to the blade is the only reason I can think of as being the cause. The obvious and most applied force in this case is blunt force, as in the blade striking an object. Excessive torque could also be an applied force, but in this case the engine is not capable of producing enough torque and the liquid the prop turns against is not dense enough to cause enough stress on a stainless steel prop to fracture a blade. + +All of the above doesn't answer your question. Just applying simple logic to your scenario. Which leads me to ask, what has you convinced the prop has not been fractured due to blunt force?","Strange indeed. First Im hearing of such an anomaly. Needless to say but worth mentioning, why purchase a boat whose engines shaft length differs from transom length. Be that as it may, this isn't the cause of cracked prop blades. Applying what I know of physics, apllied force to the blade is the only reason I can think of as being the cause. The obvious and most applied force in this case is blunt force, as in the blade striking an object. Excessive torque could also be an applied force, but in this case the engine is not capable of producing enough torque and the liquid the prop turns against is not dense enough to cause enough stress on a stainless steel prop to fracture a blade. + +All of the above doesn't answer your question. Just applying simple logic to your scenario. Which leads me to ask, what has you convinced the prop has not been fractured due to blunt force?","Thanks Bumperfood, I have already had a look at this video, unfortunately it shows wrong side of outboard, Got a manual on its way so hope i can solve my problem , got really good photo from yamahas and this was great help +Thanks again" +"We have a customer with a Yamaha VF225LA SHO VMAX engine that keeps breaking blades on the propellers. They purchased the engine last January (2017) to repower a 2010 Ranger 2050 Reatta. The dealership installed a 20"" motor on a 25"" transom, so they have to lower the jack plate all the way so that it will work. In the 13 months that they've had the boat, they've slung a blade off of 4 props, and spun the hub out of a fifth. The blades have all cracked on the trailing, cupped edge right at the hub. The props have shown no evidence of striking anything. The propeller that was originally installed, and that we've used to replace it, was a MAR-GYT3B-V6-22 Stainless. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is causing this? Should they be using a different propeller? If it was just one prop, I'd say it was just a manufacturing defect. But, to have this many failures in such a short period of time. Any help that can be provided will be greatly appreciated. + +Thanks, +Harold","My belief about the wrong engine shaft length is that the dealership had the engine in stock, and decided to use it. Or, they ordered the wrong shaft length, and installed it anyway. Our customer has owned the boat since it was new. The boat originally had an ETEC 225HO on it, and it lost a powerhead with over 2000 hours on it. They never had any prop trouble with the ETEC engine. The failed props have had no damage to them. No marks, dings or dents anywhere. They looked just like they did when they were new. Just missing a blade. 2 of them still had the failed blade hanging on by about an inch of blade. That blade showed absolutely no signs of striking anything. In my 40 years in the business, I've only seen a few props lose a blade. After replacing the prop, the customers never had another failure.","My belief about the wrong engine shaft length is that the dealership had the engine in stock, and decided to use it. Or, they ordered the wrong shaft length, and installed it anyway. Our customer has owned the boat since it was new. The boat originally had an ETEC 225HO on it, and it lost a powerhead with over 2000 hours on it. They never had any prop trouble with the ETEC engine. The failed props have had no damage to them. No marks, dings or dents anywhere. They looked just like they did when they were new. Just missing a blade. 2 of them still had the failed blade hanging on by about an inch of blade. That blade showed absolutely no signs of striking anything. In my 40 years in the business, I've only seen a few props lose a blade. After replacing the prop, the customers never had another failure.",if I understand they are looking for a fuel tank for a 1989 4hp Johnson? +"We have a customer with a Yamaha VF225LA SHO VMAX engine that keeps breaking blades on the propellers. They purchased the engine last January (2017) to repower a 2010 Ranger 2050 Reatta. The dealership installed a 20"" motor on a 25"" transom, so they have to lower the jack plate all the way so that it will work. In the 13 months that they've had the boat, they've slung a blade off of 4 props, and spun the hub out of a fifth. The blades have all cracked on the trailing, cupped edge right at the hub. The props have shown no evidence of striking anything. The propeller that was originally installed, and that we've used to replace it, was a MAR-GYT3B-V6-22 Stainless. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is causing this? Should they be using a different propeller? If it was just one prop, I'd say it was just a manufacturing defect. But, to have this many failures in such a short period of time. Any help that can be provided will be greatly appreciated. + +Thanks, +Harold","Where is the anti-ventilation plate in relation to the surface of the water when the boat is running on plane with the motor trimmed up normally? Can you take and post a photo? + +What you are experiencing is not normal. Completely abnormal. Most will never throw a blade in their lifetime. For someone to throw 4 is indicative of a problem. I am guessing it has to do with the engine mounting height. Being the wrong motor for the boat.","Where is the anti-ventilation plate in relation to the surface of the water when the boat is running on plane with the motor trimmed up normally? Can you take and post a photo? + +What you are experiencing is not normal. Completely abnormal. Most will never throw a blade in their lifetime. For someone to throw 4 is indicative of a problem. I am guessing it has to do with the engine mounting height. Being the wrong motor for the boat.","Need to know more to help. Do you hear the trim motor quietly running or does no sound mean just dead silence? If the trim motor doesn't run, does the engine wind over on the key?" +"We have a customer with a Yamaha VF225LA SHO VMAX engine that keeps breaking blades on the propellers. They purchased the engine last January (2017) to repower a 2010 Ranger 2050 Reatta. The dealership installed a 20"" motor on a 25"" transom, so they have to lower the jack plate all the way so that it will work. In the 13 months that they've had the boat, they've slung a blade off of 4 props, and spun the hub out of a fifth. The blades have all cracked on the trailing, cupped edge right at the hub. The props have shown no evidence of striking anything. The propeller that was originally installed, and that we've used to replace it, was a MAR-GYT3B-V6-22 Stainless. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is causing this? Should they be using a different propeller? If it was just one prop, I'd say it was just a manufacturing defect. But, to have this many failures in such a short period of time. Any help that can be provided will be greatly appreciated. + +Thanks, +Harold","This is a common problem with a motor running to high as the blades ""slap"" the water and crack. Also bad casting will do this. The over hub props are really bad about this, as I went thru 3 Triton props $600 ea before I got a good one. I now have any HP prop x-rayed","This is a common problem with a motor running to high as the blades ""slap"" the water and crack. Also bad casting will do this. The over hub props are really bad about this, as I went thru 3 Triton props $600 ea before I got a good one. I now have any HP prop x-rayed","Thanks for the input. Will be re-checking the grounds today. I'm not familiar with the ""sheilded cable"" you are referring to. Where can I find that?" +"We have a customer with a Yamaha VF225LA SHO VMAX engine that keeps breaking blades on the propellers. They purchased the engine last January (2017) to repower a 2010 Ranger 2050 Reatta. The dealership installed a 20"" motor on a 25"" transom, so they have to lower the jack plate all the way so that it will work. In the 13 months that they've had the boat, they've slung a blade off of 4 props, and spun the hub out of a fifth. The blades have all cracked on the trailing, cupped edge right at the hub. The props have shown no evidence of striking anything. The propeller that was originally installed, and that we've used to replace it, was a MAR-GYT3B-V6-22 Stainless. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is causing this? Should they be using a different propeller? If it was just one prop, I'd say it was just a manufacturing defect. But, to have this many failures in such a short period of time. Any help that can be provided will be greatly appreciated. + +Thanks, +Harold",Thanks for the information. We've told the customer to take the boat back to the dealer that installed the motor & make them rectify the problem.,Thanks for the information. We've told the customer to take the boat back to the dealer that installed the motor & make them rectify the problem.,"Megunticook said: + + + + Ran the engine again this morning, dialed in the idle speed with a tach., then ran it in the boat for a short trip. Everything's fine now. + +Although maybe it's just coincidence, I'm not going to run the carb. dry anymore until the end of the season because I've never had an issue like this in the 4 years I've owned the motor. Seems like with a carb. like mine with a float bowl, when you run it dry it leaves a little fuel in the bottom of the bowl, and that turns gummy pretty quickly. Maybe that caused something to get clogged up somewhere. In any case I think keeping the carb bowl full might be a better bet. I'll try to run the motor at least once a week. + +Click to expand... + + +You are dealing with the evils of ethanol gas which is why most every quality marina only offers non-ethanol regular gas (and even chain gas stations in my area have now added a non-ethanol gas pump. As you only have access to ethanol tainted gas, add the Green Marine STABIL additive to you gas ALL THE TIME... Not just for storage. You should be fine with that putting the engine to bed wet throughout your boating season and as you mentioned, run it until it dies with the fuel shut off before putting the boat to bed for the winter. Ethanol creates all kinds of problems throughout the fuel system as it sits and gets gummy and and then that gum breaks lose under vibration and clogs things over and over and over again. Run a google search in you area for non-ethanol gas and see if you can find a source. Non-ethanol gas have popped up everywhere because of the problems ethanol gas creates." +"Hi all I have a 2006 130 v4 2 stroke and at wot it only hits 3600 rpm , motor does not splutter or seem rough , any thoughts ?","Pull plug wires one at a time while she is running to see if she's firing on all 4,use plastic pliers","Pull plug wires one at a time while she is running to see if she's firing on all 4,use plastic pliers","Sounds like a bad needle and seat inside of carb. Carbs need to be removed,cleaned thoroughly and rebuilt" +"I am having a time trying to remove the trim unit on my 1987 70 hp. I removed the 6 bolts (3 on each side) removed the pin holding the main ram and everything seems loose but there is no clearance to take the unit off. + +I have the motor off the boat and just can't seem to get it off. Is there a trick to removing it? + +Any help is much appreciated.","As it turns out, I have to remove or atleast spread the bracket on the tilt tube as well. +Problem solved.","As it turns out, I have to remove or atleast spread the bracket on the tilt tube as well. +Problem solved.","I do not believe you "" adjusted "" anything here !---------Take the time to see how that works.----Ask yourself "" are both parts the same thread "" And check if they are too.--------Or find a shop to adjust it in 5 minutes." +"I am having a time trying to remove the trim unit on my 1987 70 hp. I removed the 6 bolts (3 on each side) removed the pin holding the main ram and everything seems loose but there is no clearance to take the unit off. + +I have the motor off the boat and just can't seem to get it off. Is there a trick to removing it? + +Any help is much appreciated.","Good ; I know on mine, I was having a time till I realized that there was another boat hidden underneath the trim tab, Then it came right off.","Good ; I know on mine, I was having a time till I realized that there was another boat hidden underneath the trim tab, Then it came right off.",there is a formula somewhere for the percentage of total weight vs the tongue weight...the dealer should know this as he is probably the one responsible for the problem... +"I am having a time trying to remove the trim unit on my 1987 70 hp. I removed the 6 bolts (3 on each side) removed the pin holding the main ram and everything seems loose but there is no clearance to take the unit off. + +I have the motor off the boat and just can't seem to get it off. Is there a trick to removing it? + +Any help is much appreciated.",Seeker----A lower unit trim tab and a power trim are totally different items !,Seeker----A lower unit trim tab and a power trim are totally different items !,"Never tried the old finger in the boot trick. ""GET SMART""" +"I am having a time trying to remove the trim unit on my 1987 70 hp. I removed the 6 bolts (3 on each side) removed the pin holding the main ram and everything seems loose but there is no clearance to take the unit off. + +I have the motor off the boat and just can't seem to get it off. Is there a trick to removing it? + +Any help is much appreciated.","Oh didn't know, I was kind of wondering when he said something about spreading brkt. of tilt. Live and learn I guess. Thanks racerone.","Oh didn't know, I was kind of wondering when he said something about spreading brkt. of tilt. Live and learn I guess. Thanks racerone.","Ok, I got that sucker out.." +"I have a 2003 ox66 225. Replaced lift pumps 06-2017. Replaced fuel filters 10-17. Problem is motor runs fine for most of the day then out of nowwhere when cranking it will run for about 1/2 sec and die. Then will turn over but not crank. Took my mechanic out in it before Christmas and it finally did it. Tested fuel pressure. Had 0. Traced wires from fuel pump to +ecm. Not getting power to fuel pump. Said was the computer. Replaced it. Took it out yesterday and still has same issue. Will crank after extended period of time. But not right away.",I'm having similar issues with my 150. its almost like its not getting fuel.,I'm having similar issues with my 150. its almost like its not getting fuel.,"Steven B said: + + + + Hi, +I own a 1989 Yamaha 200 hp outboard. I've had it since new. Just replaced the lower unit last week. The lower unit went bad only due to no gear grease. My bad. During replacement, everything went well and seemed to line up properly and bolt back together with out a problem. However, after I fired it up, I could not get the lower unit to engage either forward or reverse. What did I not do right? +Steven B +California + +Click to expand... + + +Steve, +Have the same motor. You failed t0 connect the shifter cable. You can see the female end I you look up at the bottom of your engine. Coming off your gear casing is the male end connect those and your good to go Any questions? I can help you out [email protected]" +"I have a 2003 ox66 225. Replaced lift pumps 06-2017. Replaced fuel filters 10-17. Problem is motor runs fine for most of the day then out of nowwhere when cranking it will run for about 1/2 sec and die. Then will turn over but not crank. Took my mechanic out in it before Christmas and it finally did it. Tested fuel pressure. Had 0. Traced wires from fuel pump to +ecm. Not getting power to fuel pump. Said was the computer. Replaced it. Took it out yesterday and still has same issue. Will crank after extended period of time. But not right away.","captain mattman said: + + + + I'm having similar issues with my 150. its almost like its not getting fuel. + +Click to expand... + + + +After replacing my computer and that not being the fix, my mechanic replaced a resistor that was part of the grounding system. On my fuel pump there is a blue wire that ran to the computer, it also went to this resistor. Shoulda tried the resistor first. Woulda been cheaper. And yes, it was losing fuel pressure because the pump was losing ground and shutting off.","captain mattman said: + + + + I'm having similar issues with my 150. its almost like its not getting fuel. + +Click to expand... + + + +After replacing my computer and that not being the fix, my mechanic replaced a resistor that was part of the grounding system. On my fuel pump there is a blue wire that ran to the computer, it also went to this resistor. Shoulda tried the resistor first. Woulda been cheaper. And yes, it was losing fuel pressure because the pump was losing ground and shutting off.","yes, Is she running hot,need questions answered.Could be excessive scale inside of engine,salt.bad impeller,t-stats,head gasket failure" +"Need some input. 2010 f225 sho blew the 10amp fuse on engine block that controls the electronic throttle. Originally happened when I was operating the trim up button on plane about 2800 rpm. Gone thru everything I can see and replaced the fuse several times but now it is blowing as soon and the high pressure fuel pump (in vst) comes on (sitting on trailer testing). Fuse for hp pump is located right next to the fuse that is blowing in the fuse block but no other fuses are blowing and the pump runs fine. Fuel pump was replaced about 4 months ago and has been perfect for about 25 hours of run time. Just hope someone here has some experience that may lead me to a solution. Open for any advice at this point. Also, boat is a Ranger with key touchpad, a known problem in the past but has been and seems to be functioning correctly. Thanks for any suggestions.","More notes: Thinking the trim/tilt motor could be the culprit I proceeded to disconnect the trim motor from the actuator (blue and green wires). Disconnected and although I could hear the solenoid kicking in, the motor was inoperative in both up and down switch positions. Tried to power up again and same 10 amp fuse (electric throttle valve) blew as soon as the fuel pump ran. Also, thinking there could be a short in keypad I proceeded to unplug the startup keypad and override it by plugging in the keyed pigtail provided in case the touch keypad fails. Same scenario, as soon as the fuel pump came alive the 10 amp fuse blew. I am assuming at this point that the electric throttle valve itself is the short but I am not finding much info about it online and have no idea how to check for shorts at the valve itself. If anyone is experienced here, please chime in. Thx.","More notes: Thinking the trim/tilt motor could be the culprit I proceeded to disconnect the trim motor from the actuator (blue and green wires). Disconnected and although I could hear the solenoid kicking in, the motor was inoperative in both up and down switch positions. Tried to power up again and same 10 amp fuse (electric throttle valve) blew as soon as the fuel pump ran. Also, thinking there could be a short in keypad I proceeded to unplug the startup keypad and override it by plugging in the keyed pigtail provided in case the touch keypad fails. Same scenario, as soon as the fuel pump came alive the 10 amp fuse blew. I am assuming at this point that the electric throttle valve itself is the short but I am not finding much info about it online and have no idea how to check for shorts at the valve itself. If anyone is experienced here, please chime in. Thx.","If not in a marine application, why the 24 vdc? Just curious. + +There are many different types of float switches available for commercial and residential use, if that works for your application. +I'm not sure, but they may not care whether it's AC or DC current! + +Just a thought!" +My engine starts great and runs at idle speed but bogges down on open throttle. Have replaced fuel filter and tank. Fresh gas (93 octane). Rebuilt the carburetor and still having issues. Any help for me?,Did you check the spark and compression? Also need to check the fuel lines. Check all lines for leaks. Check the fuel pump and fuel pressure to. Did you sync the carbs after rebuilding?,Did you check the spark and compression? Also need to check the fuel lines. Check all lines for leaks. Check the fuel pump and fuel pressure to. Did you sync the carbs after rebuilding?,"o2batsea said: + + + + Would both engines be on at the same time? You may want to try something like a dual station transfer box. Then individual control cables to the engines from there. +https://www.westmarine.com/buy/seastar-solutions--dual-station-transfer-unit--160038?recordNum=1 + +Click to expand... + + +No, they would not be used at the same time. That might work, does anyone here have experience with such a setup? Since I'd need two of those setups the cost is getting up there.Thanks, Greg." +My engine starts great and runs at idle speed but bogges down on open throttle. Have replaced fuel filter and tank. Fresh gas (93 octane). Rebuilt the carburetor and still having issues. Any help for me?,"SaltyDog727 said: + + + + Did you check the spark and compression? Also need to check the fuel lines. Check all lines for leaks. Check the fuel pump and fuel pressure to. Did you sync the carbs after rebuilding? + +Click to expand... + +I have not messed with it this winter. I found out that if I held my hand over the carb intake, it ran fine. Not sure what that does to cause it run ok.","SaltyDog727 said: + + + + Did you check the spark and compression? Also need to check the fuel lines. Check all lines for leaks. Check the fuel pump and fuel pressure to. Did you sync the carbs after rebuilding? + +Click to expand... + +I have not messed with it this winter. I found out that if I held my hand over the carb intake, it ran fine. Not sure what that does to cause it run ok.","If the voltage drops it has to be a battery issue or a wiring/connection issue. Usually the latter. + +Do you know how to do a voltage drop test?" +My engine starts great and runs at idle speed but bogges down on open throttle. Have replaced fuel filter and tank. Fresh gas (93 octane). Rebuilt the carburetor and still having issues. Any help for me?,"How was the carburetor cleaned? + +A motor bogging down in usually indicative of insufficient gasoline. Trying misting a bit of gasoline into the air intake just about the time that it would start to bog down. If it picks up and runs that is telling you that the carburetor is not doing its job.","How was the carburetor cleaned? + +A motor bogging down in usually indicative of insufficient gasoline. Trying misting a bit of gasoline into the air intake just about the time that it would start to bog down. If it picks up and runs that is telling you that the carburetor is not doing its job.",So the hair dryer worked for a short period of time. I decided to buy new gauges. +My engine starts great and runs at idle speed but bogges down on open throttle. Have replaced fuel filter and tank. Fresh gas (93 octane). Rebuilt the carburetor and still having issues. Any help for me?,"boscoe said: + + + + How was the carburetor cleaned? + +A motor bogging down in usually indicative of insufficient gasoline. Trying misting a bit of gasoline into the air intake just about the time that it would start to bog down. If it picks up and runs that is telling you that the carburetor is not doing its job. + +Click to expand... + +Ok, thanks","boscoe said: + + + + How was the carburetor cleaned? + +A motor bogging down in usually indicative of insufficient gasoline. Trying misting a bit of gasoline into the air intake just about the time that it would start to bog down. If it picks up and runs that is telling you that the carburetor is not doing its job. + +Click to expand... + +Ok, thanks","Thanks + +it is neither of two, but I will reconnect the water separator and see if it works. I did replace the squeeze ball that the marina replaced last year. I think everything the marina did was half ass. I am now thinking even the squeeze ball they put on went bad." +Engine has been spitting and sputtering when throttling up. Determined that it’s running on 2 cylinders by pulling wires off and listening for change. The culprit is # 3. The engine sat for a few year so first thing I did was open the carbs and clean them out. The cylinder in firing across spark gat tester. Spark looked alittle weak but I don’t have anything to compare it to. I changed coils around and the prob stayed with #3 so coils fine. I replaced fuel pump thinking maybe it was dumping fuel into cylinder being it gets its pulse from #3. Anyone have any other suggestions. Compresson is #1 100 #2 103 #3 98,"Does your buzzer work? If the engine is on and you pull the lanyard, does the buzzer sound? + +I had a similar issue with a 2004 Yam 70TLRC 2 stroke. It would start right up, idle fine, but would violently shake and not get on a plane with the throttle down. Checked spark, compression, fuel, cleaned carbs and still had same problem. Turns out it was actually a bad oil sensor. I didn't know it was the oil sensor because my alarm buzzer was also bad, so it never went off. It actually put the engine into a ""guardian"" mode because it thought I was low on oil.","Does your buzzer work? If the engine is on and you pull the lanyard, does the buzzer sound? + +I had a similar issue with a 2004 Yam 70TLRC 2 stroke. It would start right up, idle fine, but would violently shake and not get on a plane with the throttle down. Checked spark, compression, fuel, cleaned carbs and still had same problem. Turns out it was actually a bad oil sensor. I didn't know it was the oil sensor because my alarm buzzer was also bad, so it never went off. It actually put the engine into a ""guardian"" mode because it thought I was low on oil.",I cant say for sure possibly the in hull pickup is for a fish well. I suppose it is possible it has a raw water pump on the crank without any good pics we can just speculate how it is setup. +"My recoil will not pull start when the safety gear cable on top of the starter is engaged it just jams and will not pull, its ok when it is not connected not sure how this happened","It engages when in gear. If when pull starting and shifter is in gear, this saftey mechanism prevents starting.","It engages when in gear. If when pull starting and shifter is in gear, this saftey mechanism prevents starting.","I sure would test that out first. The tongue looks a bit too short to me. If you do need to extend it, remove the jack stand, cut the current tongue, and weld in four pieces of angle iron. Then clean it up and spray with cold galvanization paint. Re install the jack stand." +"My recoil will not pull start when the safety gear cable on top of the starter is engaged it just jams and will not pull, its ok when it is not connected not sure how this happened","yes i understand that but its not in gear, when i push the plastic arm back in the hole it will not pull start it just locks even when not in gear","yes i understand that but its not in gear, when i push the plastic arm back in the hole it will not pull start it just locks even when not in gear","Ayuh,.... What, 'n How are ya tryin' to test exactly,..??" +"I’m looking to pickup a flush assembly for my 1991 Yamaha jet 40 h.p, it has a 8mm thread, anyone know what assembly/hookup I need for this in order to connect a hose? I’m new to all this just trying to learn as I go.","If this website does not offer the flush kit, here is a link to an inner web site that offers one. + +https://www.ebay.com/itm/Outboard-J...3-4-GH-Wash-Port-Hose-Flush-Kit-/332285245524","If this website does not offer the flush kit, here is a link to an inner web site that offers one. + +https://www.ebay.com/itm/Outboard-J...3-4-GH-Wash-Port-Hose-Flush-Kit-/332285245524","Yamaha made motors for Ford automobiles once. As noted, the Taurus SHO. + +Ford makes parts for Yamaha that are used in Yamaha motors. + +Yamaha, Toyota and Ford have incestuous relationships." +"I’m looking to pickup a flush assembly for my 1991 Yamaha jet 40 h.p, it has a 8mm thread, anyone know what assembly/hookup I need for this in order to connect a hose? I’m new to all this just trying to learn as I go.","That’s exactly what I’m looking for, thank you very much for your help!","That’s exactly what I’m looking for, thank you very much for your help!","You won't know if you need a new LU until you know why there is metal shavings. The gear case needs to be disassembled and inspected. Perhaps you caught the problem early enough to prevent the need for a new LU. + +Ebay and craigslist" +" + + + + +Hi, + +I just replaced the impeller on both 1999 Yamahas 150 OX 66 lower units. But now the shaft feels tight when I turn it by hand (about the same on both units). I followed the instructions form other postings online and I used Yamaha parts. I put a new impeller, new housing new base and gaskets. I also put some marine grease on the impeller and a little inside hosing and base. I did turn the shaft clockwise to ensure the fins are in the right direction. However, when I turn the shaft by hand (of course clockwise) it feels tight. The shaft moves but I feel resistance form the impeller. The shaft moves freely without the housing on the impeller. +1-Is it because the new impeller makes it tight? +Thanks! +","Turning the shaft without the impeller in place will of course require less effort on your part to turn. This is because without the impeller, the blades are not spinning against the inner wall housing. As I'm sure you noticed when handling the new impeller, it's quite stiff, as it should be. When impeller is in place, and you turn shaft, you should definitely be applying more effort on your part to turn. I would triple check you have ordered the correct impeller kit. If good, i would then be certain the impeller is engaged with the woodruff key. You can verify this before installing the housing by turnong the shaft. If the impeller turns when you turn shaft, it's good. Reinstall lower unit, hook up muffs, start engine and observe the tell tale. You should see water exiting a few seconds after engine ignition, if not immediately. If you do, you're good to go.","Turning the shaft without the impeller in place will of course require less effort on your part to turn. This is because without the impeller, the blades are not spinning against the inner wall housing. As I'm sure you noticed when handling the new impeller, it's quite stiff, as it should be. When impeller is in place, and you turn shaft, you should definitely be applying more effort on your part to turn. I would triple check you have ordered the correct impeller kit. If good, i would then be certain the impeller is engaged with the woodruff key. You can verify this before installing the housing by turnong the shaft. If the impeller turns when you turn shaft, it's good. Reinstall lower unit, hook up muffs, start engine and observe the tell tale. You should see water exiting a few seconds after engine ignition, if not immediately. If you do, you're good to go.","I have the exact same bearings as the other side , and the other side is good. I pulled +the driver side off to see if I was missing anything. And Kim I have bearing buddies, I just hadn't put it back on when I took this video." +" + + + + +Hi, + +I just replaced the impeller on both 1999 Yamahas 150 OX 66 lower units. But now the shaft feels tight when I turn it by hand (about the same on both units). I followed the instructions form other postings online and I used Yamaha parts. I put a new impeller, new housing new base and gaskets. I also put some marine grease on the impeller and a little inside hosing and base. I did turn the shaft clockwise to ensure the fins are in the right direction. However, when I turn the shaft by hand (of course clockwise) it feels tight. The shaft moves but I feel resistance form the impeller. The shaft moves freely without the housing on the impeller. +1-Is it because the new impeller makes it tight? +Thanks! +","Completely normal for the shaft to be more difficult to rotate with a new impeller than with an old used impeller. You have not only the resistance of the impeller working against you but also the gears are being turned as well. There are two other seals on the drive shaft that you are having to turn against. + +Did you grease the impeller vanes before they were installed?","Completely normal for the shaft to be more difficult to rotate with a new impeller than with an old used impeller. You have not only the resistance of the impeller working against you but also the gears are being turned as well. There are two other seals on the drive shaft that you are having to turn against. + +Did you grease the impeller vanes before they were installed?","makomark said: + + + + We always used to disconnect the hose from the engine to run the carb empty before we trailered.... + +I'd say the bigger benefit to disconnecting at the engine is you can make sure the hose has minimal UV exposure.... + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks both good reasons. I never run my carb dry though and is that the norm?" +" + + + + +Hi, + +I just replaced the impeller on both 1999 Yamahas 150 OX 66 lower units. But now the shaft feels tight when I turn it by hand (about the same on both units). I followed the instructions form other postings online and I used Yamaha parts. I put a new impeller, new housing new base and gaskets. I also put some marine grease on the impeller and a little inside hosing and base. I did turn the shaft clockwise to ensure the fins are in the right direction. However, when I turn the shaft by hand (of course clockwise) it feels tight. The shaft moves but I feel resistance form the impeller. The shaft moves freely without the housing on the impeller. +1-Is it because the new impeller makes it tight? +Thanks! +","boscoe said: + + + + Completely normal for the shaft to be more difficult to rotate with a new impeller than with an old used impeller. You have not only the resistance of the impeller working against you but also the gears are being turned as well. There are two other seals on the drive shaft that you are having to turn against. + +Did you grease the impeller vanes before they were installed? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, I greased the vanes on both units. THANKS!!","boscoe said: + + + + Completely normal for the shaft to be more difficult to rotate with a new impeller than with an old used impeller. You have not only the resistance of the impeller working against you but also the gears are being turned as well. There are two other seals on the drive shaft that you are having to turn against. + +Did you grease the impeller vanes before they were installed? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, I greased the vanes on both units. THANKS!!","Hi Riley1, nothing wrong with digging up old posts, For me the solar project works 100% I have a 33 foot motor cruiser and I have installed 6 x 100 amp AGM batteries for the house bank, everything on my boat runs off 12 volts apart from the hot water system which is AC / engine heated , all lights, refrigeration, 2 x TV`s, stereo, fans, water pumps and a small AC inverter all run off my 12v house bank, I also have a Honda generator but rarely use it. + +I decided on a single 300 watt solar panel, this was the biggest panel I fit on m boat, I could not fit 2 x 200watt panels, so I went with the biggest panel I could get, this into a 30 amp regulator returns to my battery bank between 80 - 120 amps per day depending on sunlight. I estimated I would use around 150 amps maximum per day which is quite a lot, but that's why I have a big battery bank. + +My advise would be to install the biggest panel you can fit / afford, use quality cable and connectors an decent charge regulator, and a decent sized battery you could run a inverter off the battery and charge your laptop via the laptops own AC power supply + +It is hard to comment on your requirements, do you only want to charge a laptop? nothing else? does your boat already have a battery bank? I am happy to offer you more advice but really need to know a bit more about your requirements + +cheers Yobbo" +"Guys, + I have recently purchased a 19?? Mariner 15hp Serial # 651S17089. + I'm not sure of the year, I'm needing to know the year so I can order an ignition (missing when purchased). I have searched threads to see if anyone was having a common issue but I didn't have any luck.... I did notice the Yamaha possibly built this one. If so, can I use a yamaha ignition? + + Thanks for any help!!!","Circa 1977 is my best guess. + +What is meant by the ""ignition""? The ignition system is comprised of a number of parts. What specific part do you need? + +The first Yamaha offered here in the USA was in 1984. Depending upon what you need a part from a 1984 Yamaha 9.9 or 15 HP model may work.","Circa 1977 is my best guess. + +What is meant by the ""ignition""? The ignition system is comprised of a number of parts. What specific part do you need? + +The first Yamaha offered here in the USA was in 1984. Depending upon what you need a part from a 1984 Yamaha 9.9 or 15 HP model may work.","its not the legality you have to worry about, its structure. You're looking at nearly doubling the recommended horsepower, which is probably more than the boat can handle. It might be fine for a short time, but between the thrust force and the vibration you're gonna crack your transom." +"Guys, + I have recently purchased a 19?? Mariner 15hp Serial # 651S17089. + I'm not sure of the year, I'm needing to know the year so I can order an ignition (missing when purchased). I have searched threads to see if anyone was having a common issue but I didn't have any luck.... I did notice the Yamaha possibly built this one. If so, can I use a yamaha ignition? + + Thanks for any help!!!","Thanks for the reply! + Pretty much all electrical is missing. (Points and condenser, coils? There are 5 wires coming from under the flywheel.","Thanks for the reply! + Pretty much all electrical is missing. (Points and condenser, coils? There are 5 wires coming from under the flywheel.",Chip all of that old foam out of the hull and go ahead and put in the deck. stragetically drill 2 inch holes in all the different sections and then use the poaring foam in each section and be prepared to do it all at once. What I did was keep the plugs you drilled out with a hole saw and as the foam expands you put the plug in the hole and seta weight on it. A gallon of pouring foam will be more than enough just mix small amounts at a time and have lots of mixing cups handy once you start to pour you dont want to stop. After the foam has cured you can shave and sand the deck flat and put a layer of glass and a good deck paint with grit. Where are you located I have three gallons of pouring foam looking for a home. +"Guys, + I have recently purchased a 19?? Mariner 15hp Serial # 651S17089. + I'm not sure of the year, I'm needing to know the year so I can order an ignition (missing when purchased). I have searched threads to see if anyone was having a common issue but I didn't have any luck.... I did notice the Yamaha possibly built this one. If so, can I use a yamaha ignition? + + Thanks for any help!!!","Only thing I can suggest is to go to the parts catalog for Mariner 15A model and look at the parts that were used in production. Mostly no longer available new. Copy the part number and then do a google search for it. You might be able to find some used but serviceable parts. + +For instance + +http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/15a/651000285-and-below-m/flywheel-magneto","Only thing I can suggest is to go to the parts catalog for Mariner 15A model and look at the parts that were used in production. Mostly no longer available new. Copy the part number and then do a google search for it. You might be able to find some used but serviceable parts. + +For instance + +http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/15a/651000285-and-below-m/flywheel-magneto",what is compression like?Coils points & condenser in good condition? if you have compression fuel & spark it should fire +"Guys, + I have recently purchased a 19?? Mariner 15hp Serial # 651S17089. + I'm not sure of the year, I'm needing to know the year so I can order an ignition (missing when purchased). I have searched threads to see if anyone was having a common issue but I didn't have any luck.... I did notice the Yamaha possibly built this one. If so, can I use a yamaha ignition? + + Thanks for any help!!!",http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/15a/651300100-and-below-ml,http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/15a/651300100-and-below-ml,"Your prop selection is determined by wide open throttle RPM, found in owners manual" +"hey guys I am looking at purchasing 100 hp four srtoke yamaha it was involved in a on land accident and the crank/timing pulley is bent 67F-11537-00-00 - Driven Gear , not parrelel to the other one on the top of the motor at the rear. the owner assures me the pulley valve rod is not bent. could anyone shed some advice on if this is possible. there is a crack in the pulley also +thanks","Without disassembling the motor and inspecting/measuring a number of parts I don't see how anyone can give assurances that nothing else has been damaged. + +Oh wait, salesmen at used car lots do it a lot. I see them all of the time being sued on Judge Judy for selling crap stuff. She normally rules in favor of the salesman on the basis that he sold the plaintiff a product on an ""as is"" basis, with no warranty. Buyer beware is what she says.","Without disassembling the motor and inspecting/measuring a number of parts I don't see how anyone can give assurances that nothing else has been damaged. + +Oh wait, salesmen at used car lots do it a lot. I see them all of the time being sued on Judge Judy for selling crap stuff. She normally rules in favor of the salesman on the basis that he sold the plaintiff a product on an ""as is"" basis, with no warranty. Buyer beware is what she says.","I have the same problem on my 2008 F115. Changed the fuel filter. Changed the VST filter. It's not that hard I put a drop sheet underneath to catch anything that might fall out. Glad I did because there are spacers on the VST canister mount that fell out. I stuffed rags around the base of the motor so nothing could fall in there. Took lots of pictures. I have read that you can just remove the screen from the VST filter. I decided to put a new $30 VST filter in and changed the fuel pump (Quantum brand) while I was in there. + +I still have the problem. It happens when I have disconnected the gas line and ran off a brand new portable tank with premium no-ethanol fuel and brand new Yamaha brand gas line. It is like it has two speeds at full throttle. It withholds 10 percent of top end RPM and once in a while gives all she's got. I have ordered a diagnostic software kit but will need to wait till May now as it has gone into storage for the season. Sea Foam did seem to help but only temporary. i guess fuel injectors are next. What a PITA!" +"hey guys I am looking at purchasing 100 hp four srtoke yamaha it was involved in a on land accident and the crank/timing pulley is bent 67F-11537-00-00 - Driven Gear , not parrelel to the other one on the top of the motor at the rear. the owner assures me the pulley valve rod is not bent. could anyone shed some advice on if this is possible. there is a crack in the pulley also +thanks","Yep I agree on further investigation into the internals on this site, it is very hard to imagine the valve has not been damaged cheers","Yep I agree on further investigation into the internals on this site, it is very hard to imagine the valve has not been damaged cheers","Hi....thanks for your insight on this. I was looking for a repair manual that may give more detail on this, and am having a difficult time locating one. It is for a 2008 Yamaha 25hp 2 stroke. So if I have an entire parts motor that is a short shaft even with the tiller & shifting on opposite side of motor, it should work?" +"Hi all first post here, great site. +I have a 2001 Yamaha 9.9 4stroke high thrust extra long leg +motor runs an goes fine, when running it water comes out from the top of the leg up near the drive shaft, +I have had it all apart , everything seems fine , there was a couple of blockages , which i cleared the exhaust pipe was rusted through in this section as well . +made a new one of those , all the videos i have watched none do it , heres a video of what happens +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiVKg-eYqtY + any suggestions , thx Pete",Can you see any water coming out around the thermostat area? Could be the gasket or the hoses/connections there?,Can you see any water coming out around the thermostat area? Could be the gasket or the hoses/connections there?,"PNWBoater said: + + + +[FONT="]Hi![/FONT] +[FONT="]I have this 1990 130HP Yamaha 2 strokes 130ETXD.[/FONT] +[FONT="]Symptoms:[/FONT] +[FONT="]Idle set at 750rpm, gives me 600/650 when in gear (smooth idle). I advance the throttle slowly and between 800 to 1000/1100 rpm the motor shakes enough to shake the whole boat. Passed 1200rpm, runs great. Cold or hot no difference.[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]What I have done so far:[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]1- Removed carbs, cleaned with ultrasonic and set floats at 16mm as per manual. and idle mixture screw set at 7/8 out.[/FONT] +[FONT="]2- Inspected the reeds while carb out, they appeared to be fine.[/FONT] +[FONT="]3- Set the ignition timing as per manual, rods at 53mm and 60 mm. 4 deg ATDC alined the mark on flywheel with trigger mark. set WOT timing at 22 deg BTDC and align mark as well.[/FONT] +[FONT="]Once timing set statically, verified with timing light and it gave me 5 deg ATDC at idle (manual says it should be at 5 deg, so all good there) [/FONT] +[FONT="]4- With carbs mounted, checked the sync and no adjustment needed there. No play either[/FONT] +[FONT="]5- Idle speed screw removed, set the throttle roller to throttle cam as per manual.[/FONT] +[FONT="]6- Started motor and adjusted Idle rpm to 750 in neutral.[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]7- Fuel pump replaced, not that the old one was bad but that is part of my preventive mx.[/FONT] +[FONT="]8 Checked compression, 125psi on all 4, it has been like this for the past 3 years, no changes there.[/FONT] +[FONT="]9- Did a decarb with seafoam and replaced spark plugs. [/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]So this is where I am and still giving me some shaking between 800 and 1000 rpm.[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]There is 2 things that I found out while performing the work:[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]1- The throttle roller has a flat spot[/FONT] +[FONT="]2- After adjusting the timing as per manual, I am a bit dumfounded. After setting the roller with idle screw off, once idle speed adjusted to 750rpm, the roller isn't touching the cam any longer. Then of course when I had throttle, the timing arm advances before the roller touches the cam and adding fuel to motor. I don't get it... I read and re-read the manual to make sure that I understood how to set roller and timing. So why setting timing at 4 deg ATDC if when you advance throttle the timing advances before fuel is added???? [/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]Would this explain the shaking? [/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]I would say that the space between roller and cam at idle is about 1.5 mm and that it takes about 7 deg of timing advance before the roller contact the throttle cam. Seems like a lot of advance ??? [/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]Anyway, this is where I am and I am in desperate need for help and ideas...[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]Thank you.[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="]Frederic[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] +[FONT="] +[/FONT] + +Click to expand... + + +Hi,i have the same issue with the same outboard mine shaking from 800-1500,have you figured out what is need to be fixed this situation?" +"Hi all first post here, great site. +I have a 2001 Yamaha 9.9 4stroke high thrust extra long leg +motor runs an goes fine, when running it water comes out from the top of the leg up near the drive shaft, +I have had it all apart , everything seems fine , there was a couple of blockages , which i cleared the exhaust pipe was rusted through in this section as well . +made a new one of those , all the videos i have watched none do it , heres a video of what happens +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiVKg-eYqtY + any suggestions , thx Pete","Hi there , no leaks from thermostat, i have taken the power head off, new gaskets ,all pipes checked , all the gaskets are good , there is no leaks or water in the engine +cowling area, I have just bought this motor , 2nd hand so i don't know if it was always like this , might pull it down again , may have missed something ., thx for the reply","Hi there , no leaks from thermostat, i have taken the power head off, new gaskets ,all pipes checked , all the gaskets are good , there is no leaks or water in the engine +cowling area, I have just bought this motor , 2nd hand so i don't know if it was always like this , might pull it down again , may have missed something ., thx for the reply",Actually it is more like the engine is turned off. It doesn't sputter or buck but rather just stops. Normally it starts right back up but will stall again if throttle is advanced at all even just putting it in gear will stop it. +"Hi all first post here, great site. +I have a 2001 Yamaha 9.9 4stroke high thrust extra long leg +motor runs an goes fine, when running it water comes out from the top of the leg up near the drive shaft, +I have had it all apart , everything seems fine , there was a couple of blockages , which i cleared the exhaust pipe was rusted through in this section as well . +made a new one of those , all the videos i have watched none do it , heres a video of what happens +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiVKg-eYqtY + any suggestions , thx Pete",Only thing I can think of left is you have a crack somewhere.,Only thing I can think of left is you have a crack somewhere.,"jhill10 said: + + + + It's going into aluminum. I'm worried about the screws popping out. And wollering out the holes More than anything + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Use pop rivets,.... They'll hold much better than a screw,...." +"Hi all first post here, great site. +I have a 2001 Yamaha 9.9 4stroke high thrust extra long leg +motor runs an goes fine, when running it water comes out from the top of the leg up near the drive shaft, +I have had it all apart , everything seems fine , there was a couple of blockages , which i cleared the exhaust pipe was rusted through in this section as well . +made a new one of those , all the videos i have watched none do it , heres a video of what happens +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiVKg-eYqtY + any suggestions , thx Pete","I just started the motor again , where does the water exit the motor ,throught the exhaust?","I just started the motor again , where does the water exit the motor ,throught the exhaust?",https://www.flow-rite.com/sites/all/files/file/pdf-marine/prod-livewell_control_systems.pdf there is some reading for you... +"Hi all first post here, great site. +I have a 2001 Yamaha 9.9 4stroke high thrust extra long leg +motor runs an goes fine, when running it water comes out from the top of the leg up near the drive shaft, +I have had it all apart , everything seems fine , there was a couple of blockages , which i cleared the exhaust pipe was rusted through in this section as well . +made a new one of those , all the videos i have watched none do it , heres a video of what happens +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiVKg-eYqtY + any suggestions , thx Pete","http://www.pdqforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1954 + + +I found this while doing a search, unfortunately I can't see the pictures provided","http://www.pdqforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1954 + + +I found this while doing a search, unfortunately I can't see the pictures provided","I was trying to set the timing on a friends 15 yammy and noticed the same problem. Reading the manual I'm thinking that it wasn't going to full throttle because it was in neutral and there is a mechanism to stopping it over revving in neutral. I'll test this theory tomorrow and let you know what I find out. If yours isn't revving in gear there is a chance it may be a fault with this same mechanism. Failing that there is a chance that the teeth on the two shafts where the tiller bends are misaligned. This would mean undoing the two bolts on the cowling half to separate the teeth and let you re-align the two halves of the throttle linkage. This probably means turning the tiller end back towards idle so that it has more travel again. There are also stop screws under the cowling for idle and full throttle. + +Stuart" +"Hi everyone, I’m new to the forum and already love all the info I’m reading from everyone. I hope I can add to the knowledge in the future.. + +my question however is I just purchased a 1991 Yamaha 40 h.p jet motor and just took it out for the first time today. It seemed to run fairly well except for one thing.. it would idle fine and it ran well at full throttle but everywhere in between it was hesitating or cutting out a little. The shop I bought it from said they had just changed plugs and wires but not sure about anything other then that. Overall it ran pretty good except for the cutting out at half throttle when holding it at mid-speed. Anyone have any suggestions what may cause this? Maybe just fuel filter, fuel pump? I’d think if it was the pump it’d cut out at full throttle not mid throttle. Thanks for any help you can give!",Pull and Clean the carbs.,Pull and Clean the carbs.,Have you checked the fuel pump? +"Hi everyone, I’m new to the forum and already love all the info I’m reading from everyone. I hope I can add to the knowledge in the future.. + +my question however is I just purchased a 1991 Yamaha 40 h.p jet motor and just took it out for the first time today. It seemed to run fairly well except for one thing.. it would idle fine and it ran well at full throttle but everywhere in between it was hesitating or cutting out a little. The shop I bought it from said they had just changed plugs and wires but not sure about anything other then that. Overall it ran pretty good except for the cutting out at half throttle when holding it at mid-speed. Anyone have any suggestions what may cause this? Maybe just fuel filter, fuel pump? I’d think if it was the pump it’d cut out at full throttle not mid throttle. Thanks for any help you can give!","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Pull and Clean the carbs. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks, I'll d that.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Pull and Clean the carbs. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks, I'll d that.",what would cause the engine to race all by itself? +"Hi All +I am trying to hook up my throttle cables to the control lever but have no idea how they connect. +Can some plese help or send a picture or explain? Does the Control lever separate?",Never mind I figured it out duhhh,Never mind I figured it out duhhh,At least you have a path forward....good luck!! +"I was going to work on my boat and put my 25hp 4 stroke on the stand...then it fell over. +After offending my neighbors and embarrassing my wife, I picked it up and found this part on the lower starboard side of the cowling. +I have no ideal what this part is and what needs to be done to fix it? Here is a pic of the broken part. Looks like the end of a hose going into a housing of some kind. ANY help is really appreciated. THANKS!! Oh yeah...its a 2005 model F25ESHD +View attachment 17009",It is the garden hose flush fitting. All parts and part numbers can be found in the applicable Yamaha parts catalog at Yamaha USA's website.,It is the garden hose flush fitting. All parts and part numbers can be found in the applicable Yamaha parts catalog at Yamaha USA's website.,"See where Albany got nearly 30"", how did you guys come out?" +"I was going to work on my boat and put my 25hp 4 stroke on the stand...then it fell over. +After offending my neighbors and embarrassing my wife, I picked it up and found this part on the lower starboard side of the cowling. +I have no ideal what this part is and what needs to be done to fix it? Here is a pic of the broken part. Looks like the end of a hose going into a housing of some kind. ANY help is really appreciated. THANKS!! Oh yeah...its a 2005 model F25ESHD +View attachment 17009","BOOM! I knew you guys would get it. +THANKS!!!","BOOM! I knew you guys would get it. +THANKS!!!",Drain the oil for later filling and run / rush out to the boat shop to pressure test the lower unit !!! +"Hi guys , I have a 2013 F225BETX (caribbean model) serial # 6AS-X-1003328B with 465 hrs on the motor. I do the 100 hr service myself as we live on a small island off the coast of Honduras and there are no ""yamaha mechanics"" certainly not certified. So the past 3 trips we have made to town which is 6 miles by boat I am running up on plane at 4200 rpm and its like someone just turned off the key !! dead, I put the motor in neutral turn the key to start it, Perfect, runs great, did our shopping, came out to the boat 4 hrs later, started home and into the journey about 1 mile , same thing, started it back up and came home without another incident , seems to do it 1 time per trip, maybe it will get worse / more often as time goes on. This motor is our car, we are boat access only and rely on this to survive, anyone have any clues to where or what it may be please ??? I dont think its water in the fuel, because it doesn't run rough, it like turning off the key every time it happens..... +Please help if you can +Thank you +Ken Hammer","Check all battery connections. Once power is lost to the battery the engine will shut down. While the engine is running you can wiggle all the cables and try and recreate the problem. + +Also wiggle the ignition Key switch while the engine is running. + +Had a customer with this issue on his Yamaha last summer and it was a lose battery cable.","Check all battery connections. Once power is lost to the battery the engine will shut down. While the engine is running you can wiggle all the cables and try and recreate the problem. + +Also wiggle the ignition Key switch while the engine is running. + +Had a customer with this issue on his Yamaha last summer and it was a lose battery cable.","OK. I got it figured out. Thanks for your help!!!! + +Darol" +"Hi guys , I have a 2013 F225BETX (caribbean model) serial # 6AS-X-1003328B with 465 hrs on the motor. I do the 100 hr service myself as we live on a small island off the coast of Honduras and there are no ""yamaha mechanics"" certainly not certified. So the past 3 trips we have made to town which is 6 miles by boat I am running up on plane at 4200 rpm and its like someone just turned off the key !! dead, I put the motor in neutral turn the key to start it, Perfect, runs great, did our shopping, came out to the boat 4 hrs later, started home and into the journey about 1 mile , same thing, started it back up and came home without another incident , seems to do it 1 time per trip, maybe it will get worse / more often as time goes on. This motor is our car, we are boat access only and rely on this to survive, anyone have any clues to where or what it may be please ??? I dont think its water in the fuel, because it doesn't run rough, it like turning off the key every time it happens..... +Please help if you can +Thank you +Ken Hammer","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Check all battery connections. Once power is lost to the battery the engine will shut down. While the engine is running you can wiggle all the cables and try and recreate the problem. + +Also wiggle the ignition Key switch while the engine is running. + +Had a customer with this issue on his Yamaha last summer and it was a lose battery cable. + +Click to expand... + +Thank you Chris, will check those areas as you suggested.... +Ken","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Check all battery connections. Once power is lost to the battery the engine will shut down. While the engine is running you can wiggle all the cables and try and recreate the problem. + +Also wiggle the ignition Key switch while the engine is running. + +Had a customer with this issue on his Yamaha last summer and it was a lose battery cable. + +Click to expand... + +Thank you Chris, will check those areas as you suggested.... +Ken","Damn that motor does look nice. Amazing. + +Probably no harm in running 50/1 but why? If 50/1 offers some ""insurance"" why not run 25/1 for even more insurance? + +Quicksilver gear oil will be just fine. + +https://yamahapubs.com/home/search?category_id=4&year=1988&family_name=4SG" +"Hi guys , I have a 2013 F225BETX (caribbean model) serial # 6AS-X-1003328B with 465 hrs on the motor. I do the 100 hr service myself as we live on a small island off the coast of Honduras and there are no ""yamaha mechanics"" certainly not certified. So the past 3 trips we have made to town which is 6 miles by boat I am running up on plane at 4200 rpm and its like someone just turned off the key !! dead, I put the motor in neutral turn the key to start it, Perfect, runs great, did our shopping, came out to the boat 4 hrs later, started home and into the journey about 1 mile , same thing, started it back up and came home without another incident , seems to do it 1 time per trip, maybe it will get worse / more often as time goes on. This motor is our car, we are boat access only and rely on this to survive, anyone have any clues to where or what it may be please ??? I dont think its water in the fuel, because it doesn't run rough, it like turning off the key every time it happens..... +Please help if you can +Thank you +Ken Hammer","Gettingrouper said: + + + + Thank you Chris, will check those areas as you suggested.... +Ken + +Click to expand... + +Hey Chris, well I went out to the boat and cleaned the + and - terms, neg looked good Pos def had some green corrosion on that lug as well as underneath it, so Im ""hoping"" that was it, I will find out when it quits raining. +Thx again !","Gettingrouper said: + + + + Thank you Chris, will check those areas as you suggested.... +Ken + +Click to expand... + +Hey Chris, well I went out to the boat and cleaned the + and - terms, neg looked good Pos def had some green corrosion on that lug as well as underneath it, so Im ""hoping"" that was it, I will find out when it quits raining. +Thx again !",thanks gu7ys +"Hi guys , I have a 2013 F225BETX (caribbean model) serial # 6AS-X-1003328B with 465 hrs on the motor. I do the 100 hr service myself as we live on a small island off the coast of Honduras and there are no ""yamaha mechanics"" certainly not certified. So the past 3 trips we have made to town which is 6 miles by boat I am running up on plane at 4200 rpm and its like someone just turned off the key !! dead, I put the motor in neutral turn the key to start it, Perfect, runs great, did our shopping, came out to the boat 4 hrs later, started home and into the journey about 1 mile , same thing, started it back up and came home without another incident , seems to do it 1 time per trip, maybe it will get worse / more often as time goes on. This motor is our car, we are boat access only and rely on this to survive, anyone have any clues to where or what it may be please ??? I dont think its water in the fuel, because it doesn't run rough, it like turning off the key every time it happens..... +Please help if you can +Thank you +Ken Hammer","Gettingrouper said: + + + + Hey Chris, well I went out to the boat and cleaned the + and - terms, neg looked good Pos def had some green corrosion on that lug as well as underneath it, so Im ""hoping"" that was it, I will find out when it quits raining. +Thx again ! + +Click to expand... + +The cables have two ends, Check the engine side too.","Gettingrouper said: + + + + Hey Chris, well I went out to the boat and cleaned the + and - terms, neg looked good Pos def had some green corrosion on that lug as well as underneath it, so Im ""hoping"" that was it, I will find out when it quits raining. +Thx again ! + +Click to expand... + +The cables have two ends, Check the engine side too.",Thought they use spot lock now ? We have Sandy bottoms. +"Hi guys , I have a 2013 F225BETX (caribbean model) serial # 6AS-X-1003328B with 465 hrs on the motor. I do the 100 hr service myself as we live on a small island off the coast of Honduras and there are no ""yamaha mechanics"" certainly not certified. So the past 3 trips we have made to town which is 6 miles by boat I am running up on plane at 4200 rpm and its like someone just turned off the key !! dead, I put the motor in neutral turn the key to start it, Perfect, runs great, did our shopping, came out to the boat 4 hrs later, started home and into the journey about 1 mile , same thing, started it back up and came home without another incident , seems to do it 1 time per trip, maybe it will get worse / more often as time goes on. This motor is our car, we are boat access only and rely on this to survive, anyone have any clues to where or what it may be please ??? I dont think its water in the fuel, because it doesn't run rough, it like turning off the key every time it happens..... +Please help if you can +Thank you +Ken Hammer","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + The cables have two ends, Check the engine side too. + +Click to expand... + + +Will do Chris, as I did Not check that end, but I think she is pretty damn clean, but one never know +Thank you","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + The cables have two ends, Check the engine side too. + +Click to expand... + + +Will do Chris, as I did Not check that end, but I think she is pretty damn clean, but one never know +Thank you","I couldn't locate the part on this site unfortunately, but it is Yamaha part #6E5-44553-01-8D. Lower mount cover. A google search will pull up plenty." +"Hi guys , I have a 2013 F225BETX (caribbean model) serial # 6AS-X-1003328B with 465 hrs on the motor. I do the 100 hr service myself as we live on a small island off the coast of Honduras and there are no ""yamaha mechanics"" certainly not certified. So the past 3 trips we have made to town which is 6 miles by boat I am running up on plane at 4200 rpm and its like someone just turned off the key !! dead, I put the motor in neutral turn the key to start it, Perfect, runs great, did our shopping, came out to the boat 4 hrs later, started home and into the journey about 1 mile , same thing, started it back up and came home without another incident , seems to do it 1 time per trip, maybe it will get worse / more often as time goes on. This motor is our car, we are boat access only and rely on this to survive, anyone have any clues to where or what it may be please ??? I dont think its water in the fuel, because it doesn't run rough, it like turning off the key every time it happens..... +Please help if you can +Thank you +Ken Hammer","One guy mentioned that it could also be the VST in the fuel pump, whatever that is,,,, I hope it's not that.....","One guy mentioned that it could also be the VST in the fuel pump, whatever that is,,,, I hope it's not that.....",there is an inline fuse in the wiring harness under the cowl... +"Hi guys , I have a 2013 F225BETX (caribbean model) serial # 6AS-X-1003328B with 465 hrs on the motor. I do the 100 hr service myself as we live on a small island off the coast of Honduras and there are no ""yamaha mechanics"" certainly not certified. So the past 3 trips we have made to town which is 6 miles by boat I am running up on plane at 4200 rpm and its like someone just turned off the key !! dead, I put the motor in neutral turn the key to start it, Perfect, runs great, did our shopping, came out to the boat 4 hrs later, started home and into the journey about 1 mile , same thing, started it back up and came home without another incident , seems to do it 1 time per trip, maybe it will get worse / more often as time goes on. This motor is our car, we are boat access only and rely on this to survive, anyone have any clues to where or what it may be please ??? I dont think its water in the fuel, because it doesn't run rough, it like turning off the key every time it happens..... +Please help if you can +Thank you +Ken Hammer","Problem SOLVED, took it for a 14 mi run yesterday after cleaning the battery connections and NO issues ! Can't believe that little but of corrosion on the + lug would do that but it's obvious now,,,, it did.. +Thanks to ALL for the tips and suggestions..... Ken","Problem SOLVED, took it for a 14 mi run yesterday after cleaning the battery connections and NO issues ! Can't believe that little but of corrosion on the + lug would do that but it's obvious now,,,, it did.. +Thanks to ALL for the tips and suggestions..... Ken",No idea. Meter test each wire for drop in volts or resistance. +"Hi guys , I have a 2013 F225BETX (caribbean model) serial # 6AS-X-1003328B with 465 hrs on the motor. I do the 100 hr service myself as we live on a small island off the coast of Honduras and there are no ""yamaha mechanics"" certainly not certified. So the past 3 trips we have made to town which is 6 miles by boat I am running up on plane at 4200 rpm and its like someone just turned off the key !! dead, I put the motor in neutral turn the key to start it, Perfect, runs great, did our shopping, came out to the boat 4 hrs later, started home and into the journey about 1 mile , same thing, started it back up and came home without another incident , seems to do it 1 time per trip, maybe it will get worse / more often as time goes on. This motor is our car, we are boat access only and rely on this to survive, anyone have any clues to where or what it may be please ??? I dont think its water in the fuel, because it doesn't run rough, it like turning off the key every time it happens..... +Please help if you can +Thank you +Ken Hammer","Gettingrouper said: + + + + Problem SOLVED, took it for a 14 mi run yesterday after cleaning the battery connections and NO issues ! Can't believe that little but of corrosion on the + lug would do that but it's obvious now,,,, it did.. +Thanks to ALL for the tips and suggestions..... Ken + +Click to expand... + +You are welcome.","Gettingrouper said: + + + + Problem SOLVED, took it for a 14 mi run yesterday after cleaning the battery connections and NO issues ! Can't believe that little but of corrosion on the + lug would do that but it's obvious now,,,, it did.. +Thanks to ALL for the tips and suggestions..... Ken + +Click to expand... + +You are welcome.",Running issues ?---I would start with a compression test.-----Need to determine overall health of the motor before spending coins on electric start. +"The stop button (2nds as the kill switch) is VERY hard to push to stop the motor. Is this typical? Anyone have a fix to make the button work easier? +Not a huge deal but when my Dad takes it he can barely get it to stop and has had to just pull the lanyard off. +Any ideas would be GREAT!! +Rick",Only thing to suggest is to try another stop button. That or just pull the lanyard each time in lieu of pressing the button.,Only thing to suggest is to try another stop button. That or just pull the lanyard each time in lieu of pressing the button.,"thanks for the quick response, The part that slides in the guide tube does have grease on it (quite a bit) there is a grease zerk right on the back of that area. do you have to heat in that area before you take the guide tube out, or can you get at the bushing etc. to clean it out without totaly disassembly?" +"The stop button (2nds as the kill switch) is VERY hard to push to stop the motor. Is this typical? Anyone have a fix to make the button work easier? +Not a huge deal but when my Dad takes it he can barely get it to stop and has had to just pull the lanyard off. +Any ideas would be GREAT!! +Rick","Thats what I was trying to avoid...You are probably right. +THANKS!!","Thats what I was trying to avoid...You are probably right. +THANKS!!","Yes, nothing is blocking the ports coming from the pick ups to the water pump" +"Hi. Can you help me out? +I have a Yamaha +~60hp 4 stroke high thrust motor. +~3½years old. +~13½x 15 - K prop., in excellent condition. +~1100 hours exactly...just changed the oils. +~Caribbean , tropical + waterside environment, +~average 6hrs per week, in three trips. +Maybe i noticed because of the added attention after the oil change, I'm not sure. (it has done this a little before) ...but from around 1700 to 2400 rpm, but ONLY in gear, the motor judders. (Forward and reverse. R, only tried it to 1700rpm) +Not a lot, but noticeably, compared to the same rpm in neutral. +The lower unit gear oil was plentiful and clear of milkiness yesterday when i changed it. Nothing on the lower plug's magnet. All foot/engine oil changes have been to the hour, from new. +I'm mystified. +Where i am is pretty remote and there is no worthy mechanic anywhere near....and I'm broke, right now! + +Any ideas would be greatfully received. I'm very worried as we live alone looking after wild Amimals.. only indigenous indians close at hand, and the boat is our lifeline. 5 species of deadly viper present, so i try to keep the boat in tip top condition, as the anti venom is 1½hrs away and a Fer de Lance bite gives a window of 3 - 4 hours!! +Thanks a lot.","The cause of this judder while only occurring in gear points to a moving part, obviously. Have you pulled off the prop to inspect prop shaft and seal, free of fishing line or likewise debris? How about the condition of the prop, you say excellent condition. Be sure the leading edges of each of the blades are not compromised, as this will cause vibration. Next I would verify cylinders are within spec compression, along with verifying appropriate timing of each cylinder. Here is a link for a 2014 T60 (high thrust) to help with your troubleshooting: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...maha-shop-manuals/65-2014-yamaha-f60-jet/file + +Also, I'd suggest visiting the forum website listed below, which is completely dedicated to yamaha outboards. Sign up and start a new thread, as you have on this forum. Be sure to list your engine's complete model number and year. This can be found on the engine bracket, I.D. plate. + +http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com","The cause of this judder while only occurring in gear points to a moving part, obviously. Have you pulled off the prop to inspect prop shaft and seal, free of fishing line or likewise debris? How about the condition of the prop, you say excellent condition. Be sure the leading edges of each of the blades are not compromised, as this will cause vibration. Next I would verify cylinders are within spec compression, along with verifying appropriate timing of each cylinder. Here is a link for a 2014 T60 (high thrust) to help with your troubleshooting: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...maha-shop-manuals/65-2014-yamaha-f60-jet/file + +Also, I'd suggest visiting the forum website listed below, which is completely dedicated to yamaha outboards. Sign up and start a new thread, as you have on this forum. Be sure to list your engine's complete model number and year. This can be found on the engine bracket, I.D. plate. + +http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com",dont go by what I say BUT I just picked up a 2005 Yamaha with 5 hrs on it and was not run for the past 10 years. I changed the oil and put gas in it and it started on the first pull choked and is running perfect. change the oil in the bottom end and runs like a new motor as it is. no water coming out of the weep hole tore it apart and found the wasps had blocked the hole on the outside. +Engine F115TXRZ 2001 . A Just bought a used engine and changed the water pump. Hooked the water to it and had flow but not from the weep hole on the right rear side of the engine. Checked for blockage checked OK as far back as I could go. On the water during a test run there was water flowing. I started the engine with the ears on and I had flow. This is the first engine I have seen that you have to start the engine to get flow out the weep hole. Is that true for this engine ???,"I when you initially tested with engine cold, this is why you didn't see water exiting from all possible cooling water exits. The stats were closed, thus not allowing water to completely flow around banks. When engine is warm stats are open, and thus you'll notice a larger volume of water exiting lower unit.","I when you initially tested with engine cold, this is why you didn't see water exiting from all possible cooling water exits. The stats were closed, thus not allowing water to completely flow around banks. When engine is warm stats are open, and thus you'll notice a larger volume of water exiting lower unit.",Rebuilt the carbs.. problem solved. +Engine F115TXRZ 2001 . A Just bought a used engine and changed the water pump. Hooked the water to it and had flow but not from the weep hole on the right rear side of the engine. Checked for blockage checked OK as far back as I could go. On the water during a test run there was water flowing. I started the engine with the ears on and I had flow. This is the first engine I have seen that you have to start the engine to get flow out the weep hole. Is that true for this engine ???,That sounds right when the engine gets warm . But the engine was cold and when we started the engine we got water from the weep hole right away and not with the ears on it without the engine running. All other water flow outlets had water without the engine not running.,That sounds right when the engine gets warm . But the engine was cold and when we started the engine we got water from the weep hole right away and not with the ears on it without the engine running. All other water flow outlets had water without the engine not running.,The issue could be as you described. I'd be inclined to look for a bad connection somewhere in the charging path. Usually easiest to see by looking for an excess voltage drop somewhere in the circuit. I'd label any voltage drop over 0.2vDC as suspect. Don't forget the 'earth side' of the loop as well. Many OEMs install a dedicated ground lead (#10 AWG) between the alternator frame and the engine block to ensure a good ground path. +Engine F115TXRZ 2001 . A Just bought a used engine and changed the water pump. Hooked the water to it and had flow but not from the weep hole on the right rear side of the engine. Checked for blockage checked OK as far back as I could go. On the water during a test run there was water flowing. I started the engine with the ears on and I had flow. This is the first engine I have seen that you have to start the engine to get flow out the weep hole. Is that true for this engine ???,I don't know what to tell ya other than if the engine is not overheating it's a good indication water is flowing where it needs to flow.,I don't know what to tell ya other than if the engine is not overheating it's a good indication water is flowing where it needs to flow.,"makomark said: + + + + if you have a 'brand name' boat where thousands have been made, you can shop around. If not, you best bet would be to have one made at a canvas or uphostery shop...I would suggest a fabric designed for the purpose - something like sunbrella fabric, that will hold up to the environment. Since you will be mooring it, you'll want a fastening system that will let you exit the boat and seal it up easy....probably a snap on button type. Again, the shop can make recommendations. You can also ask around the marina or visit the other nearby one..... + +Click to expand... + + +I like your opinion. This is much better because you can choose what material you want to use." +"Hi all, + +First of all, sorry for my bad english .. I'm french. + +I have an issue when shifting into gear Neutral to Reverse or Neutral to Forward. It's not operates smoothly when the remote control lever is shifted from Neutral to Forward or Reverse. I have checked each part separately and don't find issue ... I will probably change the current cables for cables PREMIUM POWERMATCHED. Some advice about this kind of cables? +In addition when re-installing the lower unit, I certainly missed the Neutral position and the Reverse is no longer accessible, but the Forward is OK ... +Do you think the shift rod push arm tool number 90890-06052 is necessary to doubtless find the neutral position or a common pliers is enough? +I screwed up and have to reinstall the linkage correctly. If you have some advise, tricks about lower unit mounting, please let me know... +Thanks in advance.","Hi all, + +Nobody has any idea or advice?","Hi all, + +Nobody has any idea or advice?",Leave your cowlings off next winter. Rodents won’t take up residence if it’s open. +"Hi all, + +First of all, sorry for my bad english .. I'm french. + +I have an issue when shifting into gear Neutral to Reverse or Neutral to Forward. It's not operates smoothly when the remote control lever is shifted from Neutral to Forward or Reverse. I have checked each part separately and don't find issue ... I will probably change the current cables for cables PREMIUM POWERMATCHED. Some advice about this kind of cables? +In addition when re-installing the lower unit, I certainly missed the Neutral position and the Reverse is no longer accessible, but the Forward is OK ... +Do you think the shift rod push arm tool number 90890-06052 is necessary to doubtless find the neutral position or a common pliers is enough? +I screwed up and have to reinstall the linkage correctly. If you have some advise, tricks about lower unit mounting, please let me know... +Thanks in advance.","Your English is great. Better than my parlez vous francais. + +Regarding the shifting from neutral into forward and neutral into reverse I presume you are talking about when the motor is running. I would make sure that both the throttle and shift cables are securely attached in the motor. The clip that holds them in place has been known to come loose which can affect either the throttle cable or the shift cable. + +The motor should be in neutral when the lower unit is removed. When servicing the lower unit the shift control should not be moved. Having said that, it sounds like yours are out of phase. I have used a pair of channel lock type pliers with the jaws padded so as to not damage the shift rod splines. You can go in one direction to find reverse and then go in the other direction to find forward. Then split the difference which will be neutral. Once in neutral confirm it by making sure the propeller shaft turns freely in both directions. If it is difficult to shift the motor into a gear have someone turn the propeller shaft as it will help it to shift. + +Reinstall the lower unit making sure the shift rod and shift shaft splines line up. Secure the lower unit in place with just one bolt. Running the motor on flush muffs start and let it idle. Make sure that it shifts freely from neutral to forward, to neutral to reverse, then back to neutral. If it does, install and tighten the rest of the bolts.","Your English is great. Better than my parlez vous francais. + +Regarding the shifting from neutral into forward and neutral into reverse I presume you are talking about when the motor is running. I would make sure that both the throttle and shift cables are securely attached in the motor. The clip that holds them in place has been known to come loose which can affect either the throttle cable or the shift cable. + +The motor should be in neutral when the lower unit is removed. When servicing the lower unit the shift control should not be moved. Having said that, it sounds like yours are out of phase. I have used a pair of channel lock type pliers with the jaws padded so as to not damage the shift rod splines. You can go in one direction to find reverse and then go in the other direction to find forward. Then split the difference which will be neutral. Once in neutral confirm it by making sure the propeller shaft turns freely in both directions. If it is difficult to shift the motor into a gear have someone turn the propeller shaft as it will help it to shift. + +Reinstall the lower unit making sure the shift rod and shift shaft splines line up. Secure the lower unit in place with just one bolt. Running the motor on flush muffs start and let it idle. Make sure that it shifts freely from neutral to forward, to neutral to reverse, then back to neutral. If it does, install and tighten the rest of the bolts.","That is correct, 15"",20"",25""for a few." +"Hi all, + +First of all, sorry for my bad english .. I'm french. + +I have an issue when shifting into gear Neutral to Reverse or Neutral to Forward. It's not operates smoothly when the remote control lever is shifted from Neutral to Forward or Reverse. I have checked each part separately and don't find issue ... I will probably change the current cables for cables PREMIUM POWERMATCHED. Some advice about this kind of cables? +In addition when re-installing the lower unit, I certainly missed the Neutral position and the Reverse is no longer accessible, but the Forward is OK ... +Do you think the shift rod push arm tool number 90890-06052 is necessary to doubtless find the neutral position or a common pliers is enough? +I screwed up and have to reinstall the linkage correctly. If you have some advise, tricks about lower unit mounting, please let me know... +Thanks in advance.","Hi Boscoe + +Thanks for you accurate advices. They 're no doubt that both the throttle and shift cables are securely attached in the motor, howhever one of the issue is that when the motor is running the shifting from neutral into forward or into reverse is extremely hard. +In addition it's sure that the shift rod and shift shaft splines were not well aligned. +The lower unit removed, shift from neutral into forward or into reverse with a plier is quite easy but the neutal position seem to be not always at the same location. +I have ordered new "" Premium Powermatched ""cables which are strongly recommended by YAMAHA marine for this type of engine. +I hope this device will fix at least a big part of the issue ....","Hi Boscoe + +Thanks for you accurate advices. They 're no doubt that both the throttle and shift cables are securely attached in the motor, howhever one of the issue is that when the motor is running the shifting from neutral into forward or into reverse is extremely hard. +In addition it's sure that the shift rod and shift shaft splines were not well aligned. +The lower unit removed, shift from neutral into forward or into reverse with a plier is quite easy but the neutal position seem to be not always at the same location. +I have ordered new "" Premium Powermatched ""cables which are strongly recommended by YAMAHA marine for this type of engine. +I hope this device will fix at least a big part of the issue ....",Harness connections look good but I cleaned them ..now back to looking for a common ground thas not right +"My 2001 Yamaha 150hp Z150TXRZ dash gauge shows the boat tank empty and won't transfer oil. it's full. The emergency engine manual transfer switch works which eliminates the boat tank pump. I have metered the boat tank switch wires at the engine connection and have continuity showing the tank sw is closed & working. I have jumped the engine connector to the ECM to show the tank is full. Same result. This model unfortunately controls this function with the ECM. The ECM is super expensive, am I missing anything? And there seems to be some confusion on which ECM? Something to do with whether the primary coil wires are grey or black, mine are black. The part # seems to be 68F-8591A-01 which I can find salvage for around $4 or 500. Has anyone had this same problem? +Bob",The oil transfer pump may not be activating because the main tanks oil level sensor is not indicating its tank needs filling. Have you meter tested the oil sensors to verify they are within spec?,The oil transfer pump may not be activating because the main tanks oil level sensor is not indicating its tank needs filling. Have you meter tested the oil sensors to verify they are within spec?,Thanks for the reply. Weight shifting will be the next step then. +"My 2001 Yamaha 150hp Z150TXRZ dash gauge shows the boat tank empty and won't transfer oil. it's full. The emergency engine manual transfer switch works which eliminates the boat tank pump. I have metered the boat tank switch wires at the engine connection and have continuity showing the tank sw is closed & working. I have jumped the engine connector to the ECM to show the tank is full. Same result. This model unfortunately controls this function with the ECM. The ECM is super expensive, am I missing anything? And there seems to be some confusion on which ECM? Something to do with whether the primary coil wires are grey or black, mine are black. The part # seems to be 68F-8591A-01 which I can find salvage for around $4 or 500. Has anyone had this same problem? +Bob","I have seen these sensors go bad before, you will need to test it.","I have seen these sensors go bad before, you will need to test it.","[QUOTE = makomark; 700130] potresti anche considerare ""PB Blaster"", gasolio e ""KANO KROIL"" .... [/ QUOTE] + + +I will use this too and ""whoever lives will see"" (Italian idiom) +Thanks again friend" +"My 2001 Yamaha 150hp Z150TXRZ dash gauge shows the boat tank empty and won't transfer oil. it's full. The emergency engine manual transfer switch works which eliminates the boat tank pump. I have metered the boat tank switch wires at the engine connection and have continuity showing the tank sw is closed & working. I have jumped the engine connector to the ECM to show the tank is full. Same result. This model unfortunately controls this function with the ECM. The ECM is super expensive, am I missing anything? And there seems to be some confusion on which ECM? Something to do with whether the primary coil wires are grey or black, mine are black. The part # seems to be 68F-8591A-01 which I can find salvage for around $4 or 500. Has anyone had this same problem? +Bob","I have had this problem but lucky have two engines . I swapped the float sensors with no help. After pushing the pins out at the boat tank connectors I found one pin,the ground wire was corroded and broke in my hand. Sometimes you could ring out a wire and check OK. But it could be hanging on by one fine wire but to the high resistance have a voltage drop making the pump inoperative.","I have had this problem but lucky have two engines . I swapped the float sensors with no help. After pushing the pins out at the boat tank connectors I found one pin,the ground wire was corroded and broke in my hand. Sometimes you could ring out a wire and check OK. But it could be hanging on by one fine wire but to the high resistance have a voltage drop making the pump inoperative.","I have changed the tires on the trailer, they were looking a little tattered. Took her out and noticed the jumping has stopped. I also greased the bearing buddies. Coincidence or were the tires the probable cause?" +"Hi i have 2008 40 hp 2cylinder 2stroke model xwtl 66tk yamaha +I put new sparkplugs in it it runs fine but after20 minuts i put on idle and when i give throtle it will not rev only idle it does get hot cause it pees salt water fine +any budy has avsugestion +thanks +Seascorpion",Put it in a barrel of water and add a gallon of saltaway and let it run until the water in the barrel gets hot.,Put it in a barrel of water and add a gallon of saltaway and let it run until the water in the barrel gets hot.,Where can I source some starboard? +I have an older model 40hp yamaha mariner says a marine shop. There's no serial number on it. It has a single carburetor on it that's no good. Wanting to buy another. But I can't find anything but dual carb info. Lowe carb or upper carb. Anyone know what years they made these. Or where I might find one. Thanks,???----The 40A models are shown with one carburetor.-----Carburetors are simple and can usually be repaired.---Why not yours ?,???----The 40A models are shown with one carburetor.-----Carburetors are simple and can usually be repaired.---Why not yours ?,"If it's a cruiser as Makomark said, it would be the same as jumping the starter on an older model automobile - jumper the key switch positive to the starter terminal (far right) to crank it. Once started, jumper the positive to the ""running"" terminal (switch on) and all should work as if the key was in the ignition switch. To turn it off, remove the jumper. + +Now, the tricky part is getting access to the terminals on the key switch. Some are completely sealed. Others can be accessed from the rear of the key switch, once removed from the console." +I have an older model 40hp yamaha mariner says a marine shop. There's no serial number on it. It has a single carburetor on it that's no good. Wanting to buy another. But I can't find anything but dual carb info. Lowe carb or upper carb. Anyone know what years they made these. Or where I might find one. Thanks,"Thats a tricky motor. The serial number shows the year but it's not really important. You need the number to order parts. I believe these are called a 40E. Im with raceone, the carbs usually can be repaired. One thing to keep in mind, the motor while built by and with Yamaha parts is a Mariner engine. Be sure to search Mariner parts or you will spin your wheels. +Start here: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/40c-twin-carb +Good luck!","Thats a tricky motor. The serial number shows the year but it's not really important. You need the number to order parts. I believe these are called a 40E. Im with raceone, the carbs usually can be repaired. One thing to keep in mind, the motor while built by and with Yamaha parts is a Mariner engine. Be sure to search Mariner parts or you will spin your wheels. +Start here: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/40c-twin-carb +Good luck!",Glad to hear you're running again and $170 sure beats a trip to Yamaha Service. I'll keep in mind that the aftermarket pump you bought presented problems. I remember when I had coils going in my car (V-8 with the coil-on-plug setup). I bought a cheap aftermarket set china for like $40 and the car ran for all of about 2-days before those coiks started to fail. Sent them all back and spent $170 on a set of AC Delco coils (also made in China but obviously to better specs as as I haven't had a problem in 3-4 years now from those). Sometimes we get what we pay for. - Tight lines. +"I'm adding a rectifier to my 25HP manual start Yamaha. I will only be using the battery for a fish locator and marine radio. What kind of battery should I use? + +Can I use a cranking (starting) battery vs Deep Cycle?","A flooded lead acid deep cycle (sealed or unsealed) will offer the best bang for the buck as long as it is used for just the fish locator and radio. Don't be expecting the motor to recharge a somewhat depleted battery unless the motor is run for a long long time at a high speed setting. + +Having said that, I don't think you will see much difference between a deep cycle and a starting battery over time.","A flooded lead acid deep cycle (sealed or unsealed) will offer the best bang for the buck as long as it is used for just the fish locator and radio. Don't be expecting the motor to recharge a somewhat depleted battery unless the motor is run for a long long time at a high speed setting. + +Having said that, I don't think you will see much difference between a deep cycle and a starting battery over time.", +"I'm adding a rectifier to my 25HP manual start Yamaha. I will only be using the battery for a fish locator and marine radio. What kind of battery should I use? + +Can I use a cranking (starting) battery vs Deep Cycle?",Thanks! Thoughts on using a 12v Tracker / ATV battery? A local Farm and Fleet has them for ~$26.,Thanks! Thoughts on using a 12v Tracker / ATV battery? A local Farm and Fleet has them for ~$26.,The factory ones are not expensive.----They are very well made too. +Anyone have any insights? It will be on a 15 foot fiberglass boat.,"What RPM and boat speed? + +What is the weight of the boat? + +Flat bottom boat or V hull? + +What propeller brand/model/pitch is installed? + +What temperature/air pressure/humidity conditions? + +Best case situation it would be something like this","What RPM and boat speed? + +What is the weight of the boat? + +Flat bottom boat or V hull? + +What propeller brand/model/pitch is installed? + +What temperature/air pressure/humidity conditions? + +Best case situation it would be something like this","I used fresh fuel and oil and cleaned the tank also. The new hose and bulb is an Attwood brand. That was the only +choice besides waiting two weeks. + What is the enrichener {choke ?} ?" +Anyone have any insights? It will be on a 15 foot fiberglass boat.,You measure engine performance in GPH (gallons per hour) for boat engines. You get the best economy by running it at max spark advance usually around 3/4 throttle.,You measure engine performance in GPH (gallons per hour) for boat engines. You get the best economy by running it at max spark advance usually around 3/4 throttle.,when attemping to upload images from my desktop it completely blank +Anyone have any insights? It will be on a 15 foot fiberglass boat.,You should get around 15 mph with a fiberglass semi V hull with 25hp in ideal conditions and drink around 6 gallons in 1 1/2-2 hours at WOT. Is the engine reaching proper WOT rpm? Is the hull clean? Is the double bottom dry? Is it trimmed properly and the weight distributed for a good plane? Which way is the water current and wind flowing? The only real way to answer that question is on the water and get to know your setup.,You should get around 15 mph with a fiberglass semi V hull with 25hp in ideal conditions and drink around 6 gallons in 1 1/2-2 hours at WOT. Is the engine reaching proper WOT rpm? Is the hull clean? Is the double bottom dry? Is it trimmed properly and the weight distributed for a good plane? Which way is the water current and wind flowing? The only real way to answer that question is on the water and get to know your setup.,"I'll check the fuel and air pressures as well as the belt and tensioners. Does this engine have a data interface connector? I have a Mercury computer system for Mercruisers and outboards. Since this was a Yamaha product, I hadn't tried a computer diagnostic yet." +"I am looking into buying a 25hp yamaha outboard motor from the early 90s. it runs great but is missing the butterfly valve for the choke. it can still run without the valve, is it something that needs to be replaced? and if so are these pieces hard to find?",Some of these motors do not use a choke flapper.----Likely nothing is missing.----Model # of this motor ?,Some of these motors do not use a choke flapper.----Likely nothing is missing.----Model # of this motor ?,"It seems there aren't a lot who will respond on the Yamaha repair forum (Honda is much more interactive) +If it were me, I would get the motor back and don't pay them a penny ! +Any reputable shop could get this job done in a week. +just my 2 bits" +"I am looking into buying a 25hp yamaha outboard motor from the early 90s. it runs great but is missing the butterfly valve for the choke. it can still run without the valve, is it something that needs to be replaced? and if so are these pieces hard to find?",Not completely sure honestly. But say hypothetically this was missing a butterfly valve... would it have any long term effects?,Not completely sure honestly. But say hypothetically this was missing a butterfly valve... would it have any long term effects?,Get a service manual. You won't regret it !! +"I am looking into buying a 25hp yamaha outboard motor from the early 90s. it runs great but is missing the butterfly valve for the choke. it can still run without the valve, is it something that needs to be replaced? and if so are these pieces hard to find?",Model # ????---------Choke would only be used to START the motor.----Once motor is running choke plate there or not does not matter !!,Model # ????---------Choke would only be used to START the motor.----Once motor is running choke plate there or not does not matter !!,"First, I am by no means an expert on these wiring setups. Others on this forum know far more than I do. So here is what I think. + +I believe that the isolator switch should handle the situation where if one alternator fails, it will switch all charging to the other alternator. + +Boats are wired differently. On most older boats the voltage meter measures voltage off of the battery. However, on newer fuel injected engines, the voltage meter is often run off the ECU. I suspect yours would likely be coming off the battery, but you never can tell - it could be the alternator. So try to find the sender wire off the meter and trace it back to the engine and see where it goes. It should have a unique color code." +"I am looking into buying a 25hp yamaha outboard motor from the early 90s. it runs great but is missing the butterfly valve for the choke. it can still run without the valve, is it something that needs to be replaced? and if so are these pieces hard to find?","Does it have a primer valve? Is all i can think of model, hp and year are required here?","Does it have a primer valve? Is all i can think of model, hp and year are required here?",thanks +"I am looking into buying a 25hp yamaha outboard motor from the early 90s. it runs great but is missing the butterfly valve for the choke. it can still run without the valve, is it something that needs to be replaced? and if so are these pieces hard to find?",On ebay enter 695-14301-02-00 it shows a 1995 carb with a choke.,On ebay enter 695-14301-02-00 it shows a 1995 carb with a choke.,"I don't see those two plugs having anything to do with the motor bogging down. + +Have you tried misting a bit of gasoline into the air intake when the bogging starts to see what might happen? If the motor picks up and runs it is more than likely an issue within the carburetors." +"Want to find out whether the part no for Yamaha Impellers indicates the type of rubber. + +I was asked to replace an impeller for a 40HP 2-stroke Yamaha; impeller has part number 44352. +But there's a number of ""versions"" of this impeller online, with different trailing codes. + +For example 6H4-44352-00, 6H4-44352-01 and 6H4-44352-02 What is the difference between the 00, 01 and 02 versions? + +Someone suggested to me that some of these may indicate the type of shaft key profile, and/or a different compound of rubber. +Can anyone shed any light?","The part number does not indicate the type of rubber used in an impeller. + +The first three characters denote which model type the part was first used on. 6H4 denotes a 40 HP two stroke motor. Note that a 6H4 40 HP impeller can be used on numerous other models. + +The second five characters denote what the part is. 44352 denotes that the part is a water pump impeller. An F350 impeller will use 44352 as part of its complete impeller part number. + +The third two characters denote part number iterations. 00 denotes it is the first generation of the particular part. If an update is made to the part these numbers will be updated. An 00 will become a -01, a -01 will become a -02, etc. as design changes are made. A -01 is normally a form, fit and function replacement for a -00. + +The fourth two characters denote a colour code. Impellers are not colour coded and therefore -00 is used. If the part is coloured, say like a cowling, the last characters might be something like -4D. + +Bottom line is that there is no one outside of the engineering department within Yamaha Japan knows the differences between the different 6H4-44352 impellers. All the consumer needs to know is that part number 6H4-44352-02-00 is the latest configuration. It is the only part number that remains available today. Order either the -00, -01 or -02 and the -02 is what will be provided. -00 and -01 are no longer available. + +Hope I have not bored you with too much information.","The part number does not indicate the type of rubber used in an impeller. + +The first three characters denote which model type the part was first used on. 6H4 denotes a 40 HP two stroke motor. Note that a 6H4 40 HP impeller can be used on numerous other models. + +The second five characters denote what the part is. 44352 denotes that the part is a water pump impeller. An F350 impeller will use 44352 as part of its complete impeller part number. + +The third two characters denote part number iterations. 00 denotes it is the first generation of the particular part. If an update is made to the part these numbers will be updated. An 00 will become a -01, a -01 will become a -02, etc. as design changes are made. A -01 is normally a form, fit and function replacement for a -00. + +The fourth two characters denote a colour code. Impellers are not colour coded and therefore -00 is used. If the part is coloured, say like a cowling, the last characters might be something like -4D. + +Bottom line is that there is no one outside of the engineering department within Yamaha Japan knows the differences between the different 6H4-44352 impellers. All the consumer needs to know is that part number 6H4-44352-02-00 is the latest configuration. It is the only part number that remains available today. Order either the -00, -01 or -02 and the -02 is what will be provided. -00 and -01 are no longer available. + +Hope I have not bored you with too much information.","Cheers chawk man + +Got the manual coming and I will move the post + +Chris" +"Want to find out whether the part no for Yamaha Impellers indicates the type of rubber. + +I was asked to replace an impeller for a 40HP 2-stroke Yamaha; impeller has part number 44352. +But there's a number of ""versions"" of this impeller online, with different trailing codes. + +For example 6H4-44352-00, 6H4-44352-01 and 6H4-44352-02 What is the difference between the 00, 01 and 02 versions? + +Someone suggested to me that some of these may indicate the type of shaft key profile, and/or a different compound of rubber. +Can anyone shed any light?","Boscoe + +Thanks for a 5-star reply to a forum question. Not only do you address the specific question about impellers, but even provide ""inside information"" about how to read Yamaha part numbers in general. Your reply goes straight into my boating tips and guides repository for future reference. + +Thanks indeed for taking the time to reply with such detail. + +Rmmu","Boscoe + +Thanks for a 5-star reply to a forum question. Not only do you address the specific question about impellers, but even provide ""inside information"" about how to read Yamaha part numbers in general. Your reply goes straight into my boating tips and guides repository for future reference. + +Thanks indeed for taking the time to reply with such detail. + +Rmmu","Clean plug means no spark to that plug.---Or no fuel / too much fuel.-----Or no crankcase compression on that cylinder.------A V-6 runs very well on 5 cylinders.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or more on all leads , yes or no." +"I am changing the base friction plate fiber ring on the base plate, does this go on dry with no lube? Also what is the purpose of the Diaphragm that the Magneto control lever rests against and how do I know if it's operating properly and set correctly in its slots?","No lubricant on the friction plate. + +I suspect the diaphragm is acting as a dashpot to slow down the rate of the carburetors closing. The SM describes how to adjust the diaphragm. If needed. If the motor does not stumble or die when you quickly retard the throttle to idle I would suspect that the diaphragm is adjusted and working correctly.","No lubricant on the friction plate. + +I suspect the diaphragm is acting as a dashpot to slow down the rate of the carburetors closing. The SM describes how to adjust the diaphragm. If needed. If the motor does not stumble or die when you quickly retard the throttle to idle I would suspect that the diaphragm is adjusted and working correctly.","It is likely your neutral safety switch is loose, has a loose wire, or is out of adjustment. Lower your engine, remove cowling and check where the throttle cable connects to the throttle arm on the right forward side of your engine. I don't have my shop manual with me, but there is a specific procedure for checking it if the problem is not obvious. If you push in the switch by hand, or shunt it across the terminals, and the engine starts up, that is likely your problem. + +Also, check that you kill switch is operating correctly. Occasionally, mine gets some salt water corrosion, and I douse it with some WD-40 and work it in and out a bunch of times To fully test the kill switch, shunt the wires across the two terminals, which basically bypasses the switch. If that cures the problem, fix or replace the switch. + +Also, recommend you post this on the Honda forum. There are several very experienced Honda tech's on that forum that can help you better than I can." +I have a yamaha multi-function gauge tachometer at any RPM from 3000 thru 4100 the digital oil pressure jumps between the two midrange markings when the oil is hot. Anyone have any thoughts? This is a new F200.,Completely normal. Oil pressure is not static. It varies over time. Even at a constant RPM.,Completely normal. Oil pressure is not static. It varies over time. Even at a constant RPM.,It’s a 4 stroke. F115. SN. 310451 +"I cannot find any explanation of how the fuel enrichment ""starter set"" operates. Some carbs have no electrical connection but use the wax disk others like my 2002 have the electrical connections. I've searched for the definitive explanation of how the enrichment device works and have found nothing. Is there anyone out there that KNOWS how the device works... Thanks.. 2002 T9.9EXHA","hankstein said: + + + + I cannot find any explanation of how the fuel enrichment ""starter set"" operates. Some carbs have no electrical connection but use the wax disk others like my 2002 have the electrical connections. I've searched for the definitive explanation of how the enrichment device works and have found nothing. Is there anyone out there that KNOWS how the device works... Thanks.. 2002 T9.9EXHA + +Click to expand... + + +Carbs with no electrical connections generally use a mechanical choke plate. + +The starter set you refer to is generally known by Yamaha as Primestart. Automatic fuel enrichment. When the motor is cold the wax inside the Primestart is cold. The Primestart needle is retracted. Allows more fuel to flow. Once the motor is started the motor feeds electrical current to the Primestart device. The wax inside heats up and extends the needle. As the needle extends less additional fuel is allowed to flow. Once the motor is warmed up the needle will be fully extended and not allow any more additional fuel to flow.","hankstein said: + + + + I cannot find any explanation of how the fuel enrichment ""starter set"" operates. Some carbs have no electrical connection but use the wax disk others like my 2002 have the electrical connections. I've searched for the definitive explanation of how the enrichment device works and have found nothing. Is there anyone out there that KNOWS how the device works... Thanks.. 2002 T9.9EXHA + +Click to expand... + + +Carbs with no electrical connections generally use a mechanical choke plate. + +The starter set you refer to is generally known by Yamaha as Primestart. Automatic fuel enrichment. When the motor is cold the wax inside the Primestart is cold. The Primestart needle is retracted. Allows more fuel to flow. Once the motor is started the motor feeds electrical current to the Primestart device. The wax inside heats up and extends the needle. As the needle extends less additional fuel is allowed to flow. Once the motor is warmed up the needle will be fully extended and not allow any more additional fuel to flow.","It might be a so-called polarity alarm. If one of the prongs is not tight or the plug is loose, they typically buzz until the issue is resolved. It looks like an old horn relay + +Gene" +"I just purchased this motor and it is all manual, no electric start or power trim and tilt. It is a short shaft. I am trying to figure out how to add power trim and tilt, as well as remote steer. I was told that it was originally an option. Can anyone please help me understand what parts I will need for the trim and tilt conversion?? New brackets and a pump? New swivel bracket? And part numbers or help would be greatly appreciated!!","You can try and find a second hand trim and tilt unit, but they are hard to find ... or you can just mount your motor on a cmc power trim and tilt unit .... Ideally you should have purchased the correct motor that you wanted from the start. I have been looking for a trim and tilt unit for my 85hp Yamaha racing motor and 8 years later I am still looking ... the ones I can find cost the same as the motor itself ......","You can try and find a second hand trim and tilt unit, but they are hard to find ... or you can just mount your motor on a cmc power trim and tilt unit .... Ideally you should have purchased the correct motor that you wanted from the start. I have been looking for a trim and tilt unit for my 85hp Yamaha racing motor and 8 years later I am still looking ... the ones I can find cost the same as the motor itself ......","Update: I have gone through the wiring and replaced both batteries. I didn’t find anything noticeable on the wiring. +same issues still going on. When i go to start the boat the displays go away and nothing happens it will do this several times then the boy will start. Voltage still drops a lot when I trim the motor. Any other suggestions on where to look/ diagnose. Thanks again!" +"I just purchased this motor and it is all manual, no electric start or power trim and tilt. It is a short shaft. I am trying to figure out how to add power trim and tilt, as well as remote steer. I was told that it was originally an option. Can anyone please help me understand what parts I will need for the trim and tilt conversion?? New brackets and a pump? New swivel bracket? And part numbers or help would be greatly appreciated!!","Sorry forgot about the remote steering, yes you can ad this but you will need to do some modification to the links, my best advice would be to sell and buy what you need.","Sorry forgot about the remote steering, yes you can ad this but you will need to do some modification to the links, my best advice would be to sell and buy what you need.",I meant installing extra stringers in flooring glassing them in.Then repainting floor but disregard because you dont want holes in floor.I would wait for more replys. +"F250 GETTING WATER IN OIL.WHERE SHOULD I LOOK? COMPRESSION IS GOOD. EXAUST SOUNDS DIFFERENT THEN THE GOOD MOTOR. 385 HOURS...SALT WATER. I'M THINKING OF LIFTING POWERHEAD AND LOOK AT SUMP AND EXAUST GASKETS... +ANY HINTS WILL BE APPRECIATED. +REGARDS TO ALL.",Is the temperature coming up to where it's supposed to be. I.E. Is it running to cold ??,Is the temperature coming up to where it's supposed to be. I.E. Is it running to cold ??,"boscoe said: + + + + What is the complete model of the motor? All 40 HP two strokes may not be alike. + +Click to expand... + + This is the information on the tag bought in the Philippines EJ4H E40JMH L1014870J this engine only has the basics tiller no starter no forward control very few wires to check for broken only a visual check I didn't check the wire for internal breakage I did disconnect all the parts under the flywheel to see if they were somehow causing the grounded white wire from the kill switch installed a new CDI , but I don't know how to check that, some say if new it still can be bad it's OE from Yamaha thanks for any help 'Linwood" +"F250 GETTING WATER IN OIL.WHERE SHOULD I LOOK? COMPRESSION IS GOOD. EXAUST SOUNDS DIFFERENT THEN THE GOOD MOTOR. 385 HOURS...SALT WATER. I'M THINKING OF LIFTING POWERHEAD AND LOOK AT SUMP AND EXAUST GASKETS... +ANY HINTS WILL BE APPRECIATED. +REGARDS TO ALL.","I know some F115's had issues with water getting past the bad lower oil seals. The early F200, 225, and 250's I think all had various issues with the lower oil seals (under the oil pump) but more normally an oil leak issue rather than water ingress on those engines I think. If you drop the lower unit and find engine oil on the top of the drive shaft you probably have the oil seal issue. Fix usually involves a Speedy Sleeve as well as a new seal. Of course the other well known issue on many of these gen 1 F series Yamahas is the rotting exhausts. That might explain the noise difference and maybe even the water although I haven't heard of water in oil being a typical symptom.","I know some F115's had issues with water getting past the bad lower oil seals. The early F200, 225, and 250's I think all had various issues with the lower oil seals (under the oil pump) but more normally an oil leak issue rather than water ingress on those engines I think. If you drop the lower unit and find engine oil on the top of the drive shaft you probably have the oil seal issue. Fix usually involves a Speedy Sleeve as well as a new seal. Of course the other well known issue on many of these gen 1 F series Yamahas is the rotting exhausts. That might explain the noise difference and maybe even the water although I haven't heard of water in oil being a typical symptom.","Hi, thanks for all your replies. Just a further question.... can anyone suggest the best way to protect the dome when transporting the boat via road over long distances (400kms)?? At the moment I have it screwed on with wing nuts and take it off. A bit of mucking around at the other end but not a bad option for protection and less wind drag?? Can you buy covers for them?? Thanks" +"F250 GETTING WATER IN OIL.WHERE SHOULD I LOOK? COMPRESSION IS GOOD. EXAUST SOUNDS DIFFERENT THEN THE GOOD MOTOR. 385 HOURS...SALT WATER. I'M THINKING OF LIFTING POWERHEAD AND LOOK AT SUMP AND EXAUST GASKETS... +ANY HINTS WILL BE APPRECIATED. +REGARDS TO ALL.","Boobie said: + + + + Is the temperature coming up to where it's supposed to be. I.E. Is it running to cold ?? + +Click to expand... + + +2 times on this.","Boobie said: + + + + Is the temperature coming up to where it's supposed to be. I.E. Is it running to cold ?? + +Click to expand... + + +2 times on this.",I have a 1985 yamaha f9.9sk I need help with as well. It runs great but not winding out like it should. Im only able to get it up to 9mph and at full throttle it bogs down and dies after a few minutes if I don't let off. It starts idles and runs great other than that. Any idea what the problem is? Its pushing a 16ft v bottom alumimum boat +"F250 GETTING WATER IN OIL.WHERE SHOULD I LOOK? COMPRESSION IS GOOD. EXAUST SOUNDS DIFFERENT THEN THE GOOD MOTOR. 385 HOURS...SALT WATER. I'M THINKING OF LIFTING POWERHEAD AND LOOK AT SUMP AND EXAUST GASKETS... +ANY HINTS WILL BE APPRECIATED. +REGARDS TO ALL.","Hi. Thanks for input. I've been away and only now lifting powerhead to look at exaust,sump and lower seals... +I'll post what i find.","Hi. Thanks for input. I've been away and only now lifting powerhead to look at exaust,sump and lower seals... +I'll post what i find.","racerone said: + + + + Yes they are a precision fit and line bored.-----You take your chances if you want to use another cover.-----Best to take it apart and see what is wrong first.-----Those joints rarely leak so something is wrong here !! + +Click to expand... + + +My best guess at this point is when the motor locked up, a rod damaged the side of the case and it wasn’t caught/repaired upon rebuild. We shall see." +"F250 GETTING WATER IN OIL.WHERE SHOULD I LOOK? COMPRESSION IS GOOD. EXAUST SOUNDS DIFFERENT THEN THE GOOD MOTOR. 385 HOURS...SALT WATER. I'M THINKING OF LIFTING POWERHEAD AND LOOK AT SUMP AND EXAUST GASKETS... +ANY HINTS WILL BE APPRECIATED. +REGARDS TO ALL.","Temp was normal. The sameas other motor... +Oil was coffe/milky colour but level was normal. +I can't understand it.","Temp was normal. The sameas other motor... +Oil was coffe/milky colour but level was normal. +I can't understand it.",Fuel pumps OK. Reed valves OK Carbs next. +"F250 GETTING WATER IN OIL.WHERE SHOULD I LOOK? COMPRESSION IS GOOD. EXAUST SOUNDS DIFFERENT THEN THE GOOD MOTOR. 385 HOURS...SALT WATER. I'M THINKING OF LIFTING POWERHEAD AND LOOK AT SUMP AND EXAUST GASKETS... +ANY HINTS WILL BE APPRECIATED. +REGARDS TO ALL.","Hello, did you ever figure out what +was up with your motor ? I have the +same issue : thanks in advance","Hello, did you ever figure out what +was up with your motor ? I have the +same issue : thanks in advance","We ended up with 30"" ourselves. At least it was powdery." +Boat has been laid up for one year took it out this past weekend new fuel non ethenhol 25 gallons ran engine in drive way ran good put boat in water as soon as i put in gear died only way to move was to hit auto choke switch on and off cant figure out whats wrong can anyone help thanks,"TEDSAL1940 said: + + + + Boat has been laid up for one year took it out this past weekend new fuel non ethenhol 25 gallons ran engine in drive way ran good put boat in water as soon as i put in gear died only way to move was to hit auto choke switch on and off cant figure out whats wrong can anyone help thanks + +Click to expand... + + +You saying the engine did start after you engaged choke? If the engine hasn't been run in a year, my first thought is the carb's are gummed up...or at least the jets. If you left fuel in the fuel system before storing the engine, yeah, this is most certainly the issue. Pull carbs, jets, and check floats. Make sure ALL jets are pulled and clear of debris. That's where I'd start first. If you can't get it running after doing this, check back and we'll go from there.","TEDSAL1940 said: + + + + Boat has been laid up for one year took it out this past weekend new fuel non ethenhol 25 gallons ran engine in drive way ran good put boat in water as soon as i put in gear died only way to move was to hit auto choke switch on and off cant figure out whats wrong can anyone help thanks + +Click to expand... + + +You saying the engine did start after you engaged choke? If the engine hasn't been run in a year, my first thought is the carb's are gummed up...or at least the jets. If you left fuel in the fuel system before storing the engine, yeah, this is most certainly the issue. Pull carbs, jets, and check floats. Make sure ALL jets are pulled and clear of debris. That's where I'd start first. If you can't get it running after doing this, check back and we'll go from there.", +"Hi all. +I'm new here,and I would appreciate a little professional advice from the experienced members. +I'm currently rebuilding my 1992 Yamaha 130 2-stroke. +That is the model with the 21.5 mm wirst pins and my connection rods are red and silver colored +Have another engine for parts 115 Yamaha 2 stroke year 89 and same con rods (21.5 mm virst pins) but these rods are in a single red colour and there is a different number pressed in. +Does anybody know what is the difference between the two? +Can I use one or two connection rods from my spare engine or they different in some way, like weight or something? +Thank you for all the answers.",The 1992 part number is shown to fit them all down to 1984 year.,The 1992 part number is shown to fit them all down to 1984 year.,"having diffaculty w/ the brake actuater. + +when I pump the master cylinder w/ the screw driver w/ the brake line on or off there isn't any fuild expelling from the master cylinder however some fuild will leak out the bottom after a bunch of pumps. + +is there there something inside the tie down actuater that needs to be removed in order to build preasure? + +I'm lucky my new tow vehical has 13"" rotors front /rear." +"oil pump kit 6E5-W1320-00 I need to know which oil line on the new pump goes to which cylinder, old pump was round and all 4 lines was on top of pump, +new pump 2 oil lines on each side. Not sure which lines go to what cylinder or is there a manuel or instructions available?",You're in luck. Found a free download of your engines model year. Find it here: https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/688-1987-yamaha-115etln-115etxn/file,You're in luck. Found a free download of your engines model year. Find it here: https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/688-1987-yamaha-115etln-115etxn/file,"It is like this on some other boats as well, seems to be strictly cosmetic. My guess would be so that there is enough room to have a rounded over look rather than being a 90 degree angle. As the core rots the structure absorbs less of the load and puts stress on these mating areas. This is probably only efficient with boats created from molds rather than if you just made the core a bit taller and rounded it over slightly to achieve the same look. Just my 2 cents. Cheers" +"oil pump kit 6E5-W1320-00 I need to know which oil line on the new pump goes to which cylinder, old pump was round and all 4 lines was on top of pump, +new pump 2 oil lines on each side. Not sure which lines go to what cylinder or is there a manuel or instructions available?","hi all, my name is Lena)) I am a new member here )) thanks for your post , nice to meet you all here, in this web site","hi all, my name is Lena)) I am a new member here )) thanks for your post , nice to meet you all here, in this web site","Yes right guy. +This is Boat Electric's own control board. + +MP stands for metering pump-espar fuel metering pump + +All you need to get the heater going should be main 12v POS. and NEG., fuel metering pump, and apply 12v+ to whatever goes to the yellow wire on the heater side of the square/ oval plug that seperates the heater from the control board. I assume your unit has an internal water pump. If it has an external pump then it must be connected or the heater will not start. If you need any more assistance I can try to find the schematics, but it will take alot of digging through piles of old paperwork in boxes, so I hope this gets you going! Let me know how you make out." +"oil pump kit 6E5-W1320-00 I need to know which oil line on the new pump goes to which cylinder, old pump was round and all 4 lines was on top of pump, +new pump 2 oil lines on each side. Not sure which lines go to what cylinder or is there a manuel or instructions available?","ClassicAQ +thank you for the information , but its not the right oil pump ,thanks for the help.","ClassicAQ +thank you for the information , but its not the right oil pump ,thanks for the help.","So doing some searching on forums come across one where the guy was sealing his dog house and was recommended to him to use “Smith epoxy sealer (cpes), dam that stuff is expensive, be nice to seal the wood rather than dealing with the fiberglass thing but I don’t like doing things half*** either, but the smith epoxy is to expensive for me. + So with boats is wood sealer fine for wood that’s not going to have water sitting on it like example the floor? Since I’m new and learning about all this seems like fiberglass over most things would be best (does it make for an impenetrable barrier for moisture?) I just wouldn’t want things to be falling apart or looking like junk 2or3 yrs down the road." +"oil pump kit 6E5-W1320-00 I need to know which oil line on the new pump goes to which cylinder, old pump was round and all 4 lines was on top of pump, +new pump 2 oil lines on each side. Not sure which lines go to what cylinder or is there a manuel or instructions available?",The 4 oil lines go to each intake manifold bore.-----So it does not matter which one goes there.-----Just install them in a neat manner.,The 4 oil lines go to each intake manifold bore.-----So it does not matter which one goes there.-----Just install them in a neat manner.,"Ayuh,.... Without some sorta application info, I donno how yer gonna find a wirin' diagram,... + +Although the ignition circuit is Easy,.... +There Ain't any ignition, it's a compression fired motor, aka: it's a Diesel,...." +"oil pump kit 6E5-W1320-00 I need to know which oil line on the new pump goes to which cylinder, old pump was round and all 4 lines was on top of pump, +new pump 2 oil lines on each side. Not sure which lines go to what cylinder or is there a manuel or instructions available?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + You're in luck. Found a free download of your engines model year. Find it here: https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/688-1987-yamaha-115etln-115etxn/file + +Click to expand... + + +What an excellent resource that site is! I looked here: https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/service-manuals/yamaha-service-manuals/ and can't believe the number of manuals. + +I'm 'off the water' at the moment as I work in a land far, far away and I thrive on researching and reading- that site will keep me busy for months. + +Thanks for posting the link!","ClassicAQ said: + + + + You're in luck. Found a free download of your engines model year. Find it here: https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...-manuals/688-1987-yamaha-115etln-115etxn/file + +Click to expand... + + +What an excellent resource that site is! I looked here: https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/service-manuals/yamaha-service-manuals/ and can't believe the number of manuals. + +I'm 'off the water' at the moment as I work in a land far, far away and I thrive on researching and reading- that site will keep me busy for months. + +Thanks for posting the link!", +"Hey I’m new here, +i have a Quintrex 310 Dart and want to put a 25 on it, what do the new ones weigh? +i am currently running a mid nineties merc 15 and it goes great but the old merc ain’t so reliable anymore, +i want a step up from a 15 and run a 25 can anyone see any obvious reason not too? +cheers Mick","According to Yamaha, the new 25hp is [FONT="]126 lbs – 143 lbs (dry weight). I don't know what the weight is of your 15hp merc, but I recon it's on par with a Yam 15hp weight. In which case, the weight [/FONT][FONT=Open Sans, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]difference between a 15hp and 25hp is 15-20lbs. No biggie.[/FONT]","According to Yamaha, the new 25hp is [FONT="]126 lbs – 143 lbs (dry weight). I don't know what the weight is of your 15hp merc, but I recon it's on par with a Yam 15hp weight. In which case, the weight [/FONT][FONT=Open Sans, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]difference between a 15hp and 25hp is 15-20lbs. No biggie.[/FONT]","Is the shift shaft and drive shaft connected by a barrel nut? If so, unlock the nuts on both sides of barrel nut then turn barrel nut up until the 2 shafts disengage. If I remember correctly, gear should be in neutral due to the lack of working space if in reverse or forward." +"Hi All +Please could you assist with some information, my Yamaha 150 2 Stroke is jumping out of forward gear at 3000 Rpm, The cable adjustment is correct, the top select shaft that connects to the select shaft in the gear box has been replaced, stripped down to inspect. The lower gear select sharft is not worn or twisted. +Found the drive gear forward & Reverse to apear to be in fair condition with what seems to be minimal wear & the back cut of the gears not worn. see photos attached +The Dog gear appears to have minimal wear & the back cut on the gear not worn. see photos attached +When the dog gear is assembled to the output shaft with the detent balls & spring assembled & is moved into the forward position it comes level with the end of the shaft spline, the detent balls are now over the raised detent locator on the internal of the shaft in forward gear position, when in this position I am able to move the Dog gear 2 mm away from the Forward Gear before the detent balls stop against the raised detent section of the shaft, this is still in the selected forward position, is this ment to be. +My other thought is could it be the Detent Spring that has now lost tention, the spring measures 28mm not compressed & when assembling it is not to difficult. +Your kind assistance will be greatly appreciated so I am able to get back on the water. + Cheers Grubbsta","Hi All tried to add photos would not allow, please can you help thanks,","Hi All tried to add photos would not allow, please can you help thanks,","I'm starting to lean towards ""Evercoats"", Skid-No-More rubberized coating. It also gives me the ability to tint the color somewhat. Going to look on the web to see if there are any project finished pics." +"Watched a video of a guy winterizing his outboard and he puts anti freeze in it. Is this nessecary? I thought they drained if left upright?? + +TIA","They drain when they are new, but after some use and corrosion the drains get restricted and the next thing you know there is an issue. For the cost of the antifreeze its worth pumping it through.","They drain when they are new, but after some use and corrosion the drains get restricted and the next thing you know there is an issue. For the cost of the antifreeze its worth pumping it through.","There are no specific propellers that are supplied with the larger motors. Either a boat builder or a dealer picks and chooses the propeller they want to use. + +You can go to www.yamahaoutboards.com and then go to the performance bulletins section. Try and find a boat similar to yours with a V4 115 Yam on the back and you can see what propeller was used for the PB." +"Watched a video of a guy winterizing his outboard and he puts anti freeze in it. Is this nessecary? I thought they drained if left upright?? + +TIA","OK,thanks for that.","OK,thanks for that.","Re: No spark on 2 coils + +I removed the flywheel and the magnets are all good. Can the timer base and/or stator be tested for proper operation?" +"Hello. I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke (3 cyl) engine from early 80's somewhere. There are no numbers on the engine, so I'm not sure what model exactly. + +Before the boat season ended the engine ran very rough. Especially on idle, but it also made some noises in higher RPM's too. Also I felt it was using more fuel, but significantly loss in power. About 6-8 knots slower on full throttle. It also seemed like it was leaking some fuel or something too. the ocean didn't look too good when the boat stood still and engine was idling. + + +I've taken the engine into my garage for the winter and taken out the carburetors and cleaned them. +I let them lie in diesel for a day or so and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner (it's hard to find carberator cleaner over here) I also took out the reed valves and cleaned them lightly. + +I fired up the bad boy today and it still runs rough and coughing.. A lot of smoke too. + + +- I've checked for sparks, it seems pretty fine. Good clear sparks +- I've had a compression check on it too some hours ago. Looks very good. Even compression on all 3 cylinders. + +I also noticed that on cyl 2 and 3 fuel is leaking out of the choke plate. So I feel the problem is here or something with the carburetor adjustment. + +On the bright side it's VERY easy to start the engine. Therefore I don't think it's a mechanical issue inside the engine. + + + +I'm REALLY hoping I can get some help here. + +Cod season is in full bloom right now and the ocean here in norway is crawling with fish atm! It won't be long before it's over! + +just fyi I'm not a marine mechanic and have not worked so very much on 2 stroke engines, but I am an automotive mechanic so I've got some skill in this area.","Hey there + +There are a few things that could be going on here. Given you said you cleaned the reed valves and it starts easily I'm presuming those valves where closing well. If they don't they can cause fuel to come back out through the carburettors. Also, because you cleaned the carburettors I'm going to assume the needle and seat for the float bowl is working well and the fuel pump isn't causing them to overflow. From the smoke and fuel is sounds like it is running rich. Are the chokes opening completely? You may also need to balance the carbs with a set of vacuum gauges to smooth out that idle, but it sounds like you've got something a bit more seriously wrong with it first. I'd also be inclined to put a timing light on it and see where it is at there. + +Stuart","Hey there + +There are a few things that could be going on here. Given you said you cleaned the reed valves and it starts easily I'm presuming those valves where closing well. If they don't they can cause fuel to come back out through the carburettors. Also, because you cleaned the carburettors I'm going to assume the needle and seat for the float bowl is working well and the fuel pump isn't causing them to overflow. From the smoke and fuel is sounds like it is running rich. Are the chokes opening completely? You may also need to balance the carbs with a set of vacuum gauges to smooth out that idle, but it sounds like you've got something a bit more seriously wrong with it first. I'd also be inclined to put a timing light on it and see where it is at there. + +Stuart","A 2004 115TXRC/TLRC has both a manual choke and an electric choke. Actually, the mechanical choke is driven by an electromechanical device when the key is pushed in. + +Pull the manual lever and see if the choke plates close on both carburetors. Then, push the key switch in with the key in the on position and see if the choke plates close. They should in both cases. Putting your hand over the carburetor inlets is doing the same thing that the choke plates should be doing. Yours might need to be adjusted. + +I disagree with opening the throttle somewhat during a cold start event. When a motor is cold there is not enough fuel for the amount of air that is flowing through the carburetor. The choke plate closing causes additional fuel to be provided. Opening the throttle during cold start is allowing more air in at the very same time that there is already too much air." +"Hello. I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke (3 cyl) engine from early 80's somewhere. There are no numbers on the engine, so I'm not sure what model exactly. + +Before the boat season ended the engine ran very rough. Especially on idle, but it also made some noises in higher RPM's too. Also I felt it was using more fuel, but significantly loss in power. About 6-8 knots slower on full throttle. It also seemed like it was leaking some fuel or something too. the ocean didn't look too good when the boat stood still and engine was idling. + + +I've taken the engine into my garage for the winter and taken out the carburetors and cleaned them. +I let them lie in diesel for a day or so and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner (it's hard to find carberator cleaner over here) I also took out the reed valves and cleaned them lightly. + +I fired up the bad boy today and it still runs rough and coughing.. A lot of smoke too. + + +- I've checked for sparks, it seems pretty fine. Good clear sparks +- I've had a compression check on it too some hours ago. Looks very good. Even compression on all 3 cylinders. + +I also noticed that on cyl 2 and 3 fuel is leaking out of the choke plate. So I feel the problem is here or something with the carburetor adjustment. + +On the bright side it's VERY easy to start the engine. Therefore I don't think it's a mechanical issue inside the engine. + + + +I'm REALLY hoping I can get some help here. + +Cod season is in full bloom right now and the ocean here in norway is crawling with fish atm! It won't be long before it's over! + +just fyi I'm not a marine mechanic and have not worked so very much on 2 stroke engines, but I am an automotive mechanic so I've got some skill in this area.","Stuart Allen said: + + + + Hey there + +There are a few things that could be going on here. Given you said you cleaned the reed valves and it starts easily I'm presuming those valves where closing well. If they don't they can cause fuel to come back out through the carburettors. Also, because you cleaned the carburettors I'm going to assume the needle and seat for the float bowl is working well and the fuel pump isn't causing them to overflow. From the smoke and fuel is sounds like it is running rich. Are the chokes opening completely? You may also need to balance the carbs with a set of vacuum gauges to smooth out that idle, but it sounds like you've got something a bit more seriously wrong with it first. I'd also be inclined to put a timing light on it and see where it is at there. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Good morning stuart and thanks for your reply + +Yes, the seat and needle for the carburetor are OK. I took them out last night to double check. +The choke is also opening completely, so it's OK too + +Just for the hell of it, I'm going to take apart the reed valves and check them again, if everything is fine, I'll put it back together tonight and tomorrow I will borrow a timing light from work and see how the ignition timing is","Stuart Allen said: + + + + Hey there + +There are a few things that could be going on here. Given you said you cleaned the reed valves and it starts easily I'm presuming those valves where closing well. If they don't they can cause fuel to come back out through the carburettors. Also, because you cleaned the carburettors I'm going to assume the needle and seat for the float bowl is working well and the fuel pump isn't causing them to overflow. From the smoke and fuel is sounds like it is running rich. Are the chokes opening completely? You may also need to balance the carbs with a set of vacuum gauges to smooth out that idle, but it sounds like you've got something a bit more seriously wrong with it first. I'd also be inclined to put a timing light on it and see where it is at there. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Good morning stuart and thanks for your reply + +Yes, the seat and needle for the carburetor are OK. I took them out last night to double check. +The choke is also opening completely, so it's OK too + +Just for the hell of it, I'm going to take apart the reed valves and check them again, if everything is fine, I'll put it back together tonight and tomorrow I will borrow a timing light from work and see how the ignition timing is","rotus623 said: + + + + Mark, I am pretty sure there is a bonding wire at the fill port, but I do not believe there is another one on the tank. The black wire that comes into the sender is continuous with ground, and grounds out the tank as well. Is this not ample enough? + +Click to expand... + +There should be a continuous bond wire from the fill port, to the tank, and to ground. I've seen many boats with only the reinforcing wire in the 1.5"" hose pulled out and bent to meet the metal on either end as the only bond wire. Its a safety concern.... + + + +rotus623 said: + + + + I checked the fuel gauge and it is functional (with key on I touched the wires and the gauge pegged at F, took them apart and back to E) so I believe that I have a bad fuel sender. That's ok because I want to get a reed style sender anyways as they are more accurate. + +Click to expand... + +The only other check would be the 1/2 way point - if its an american standard gauge configuration, you can remove the wires at the sender and connect them to either end of a 110 ohm resistor. + +Sounds like you have a good handle on the matter." +"Hello. I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke (3 cyl) engine from early 80's somewhere. There are no numbers on the engine, so I'm not sure what model exactly. + +Before the boat season ended the engine ran very rough. Especially on idle, but it also made some noises in higher RPM's too. Also I felt it was using more fuel, but significantly loss in power. About 6-8 knots slower on full throttle. It also seemed like it was leaking some fuel or something too. the ocean didn't look too good when the boat stood still and engine was idling. + + +I've taken the engine into my garage for the winter and taken out the carburetors and cleaned them. +I let them lie in diesel for a day or so and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner (it's hard to find carberator cleaner over here) I also took out the reed valves and cleaned them lightly. + +I fired up the bad boy today and it still runs rough and coughing.. A lot of smoke too. + + +- I've checked for sparks, it seems pretty fine. Good clear sparks +- I've had a compression check on it too some hours ago. Looks very good. Even compression on all 3 cylinders. + +I also noticed that on cyl 2 and 3 fuel is leaking out of the choke plate. So I feel the problem is here or something with the carburetor adjustment. + +On the bright side it's VERY easy to start the engine. Therefore I don't think it's a mechanical issue inside the engine. + + + +I'm REALLY hoping I can get some help here. + +Cod season is in full bloom right now and the ocean here in norway is crawling with fish atm! It won't be long before it's over! + +just fyi I'm not a marine mechanic and have not worked so very much on 2 stroke engines, but I am an automotive mechanic so I've got some skill in this area.","Hello again fellow marineheads! + +Just before I put the carburetor back, I noticed that the second carburetor had wrong float height. I adjusted that and it now seems the carburetor leaking problem is gone. The engine still runs rough though. + +Then I did the following: + +- I adjusted the carburetors to hopefully smooth out the idle and it helped somewhat. +- I put on the timing light as you said, Stuart and found that the timing is way off. +I have about 40 degrees too early igniton before TDC (sorry if I'm explaining bad here, but I'm not familiar with all the technical english words you guys are using) + +I loosened the bolt and could turn the screw and move it nearer TDC mark. I couldn't move it closer than about 20 degrees before TDC. That smoothed out the engine a whole lot!! But I still feel it's too early ignition and the engine is running still kind of rough and still lot of smoke. + +I also should have mentioned that I had pull start on the engine and I got a powerhead from another 40hp (I think it was some years newer) and built electrical start on the engine I have by moving the flywheel and the electrical stuff. + +Now I think maybe because of moving the electrical parts over from that other engine to my engine - that may be what caused the ""too early ignition"" (not sure what word to use to describe it) haha + +On outboard engines, is it good with a little bit of early ignition, like 5-10 degrees? Or should I try getting it to TDC mark?","Hello again fellow marineheads! + +Just before I put the carburetor back, I noticed that the second carburetor had wrong float height. I adjusted that and it now seems the carburetor leaking problem is gone. The engine still runs rough though. + +Then I did the following: + +- I adjusted the carburetors to hopefully smooth out the idle and it helped somewhat. +- I put on the timing light as you said, Stuart and found that the timing is way off. +I have about 40 degrees too early igniton before TDC (sorry if I'm explaining bad here, but I'm not familiar with all the technical english words you guys are using) + +I loosened the bolt and could turn the screw and move it nearer TDC mark. I couldn't move it closer than about 20 degrees before TDC. That smoothed out the engine a whole lot!! But I still feel it's too early ignition and the engine is running still kind of rough and still lot of smoke. + +I also should have mentioned that I had pull start on the engine and I got a powerhead from another 40hp (I think it was some years newer) and built electrical start on the engine I have by moving the flywheel and the electrical stuff. + +Now I think maybe because of moving the electrical parts over from that other engine to my engine - that may be what caused the ""too early ignition"" (not sure what word to use to describe it) haha + +On outboard engines, is it good with a little bit of early ignition, like 5-10 degrees? Or should I try getting it to TDC mark?","I thought about that question 30 years ago and used a coating from a machine shop that was used to coat machined threads on bolts so they wouldn't get damaged in shipping. I can't remember what the material was called but if you can find a machine shop they would know what it is. All I remember was it dried like a plastic coating. + + By the way the springs will last forever . It's the metal fittings that hold the springs together that will go first." +"Hello. I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke (3 cyl) engine from early 80's somewhere. There are no numbers on the engine, so I'm not sure what model exactly. + +Before the boat season ended the engine ran very rough. Especially on idle, but it also made some noises in higher RPM's too. Also I felt it was using more fuel, but significantly loss in power. About 6-8 knots slower on full throttle. It also seemed like it was leaking some fuel or something too. the ocean didn't look too good when the boat stood still and engine was idling. + + +I've taken the engine into my garage for the winter and taken out the carburetors and cleaned them. +I let them lie in diesel for a day or so and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner (it's hard to find carberator cleaner over here) I also took out the reed valves and cleaned them lightly. + +I fired up the bad boy today and it still runs rough and coughing.. A lot of smoke too. + + +- I've checked for sparks, it seems pretty fine. Good clear sparks +- I've had a compression check on it too some hours ago. Looks very good. Even compression on all 3 cylinders. + +I also noticed that on cyl 2 and 3 fuel is leaking out of the choke plate. So I feel the problem is here or something with the carburetor adjustment. + +On the bright side it's VERY easy to start the engine. Therefore I don't think it's a mechanical issue inside the engine. + + + +I'm REALLY hoping I can get some help here. + +Cod season is in full bloom right now and the ocean here in norway is crawling with fish atm! It won't be long before it's over! + +just fyi I'm not a marine mechanic and have not worked so very much on 2 stroke engines, but I am an automotive mechanic so I've got some skill in this area.","Hey Benji, glad your motor is running a bit better now, and don't worry, your English is fine. + +I don't have the service manual for your motor hear unfortunately, but it is quite possible that it should be a bit advanced at idle. I think it should be about mid twenties BTDC at WOT. I read somewhere that if you don't know the correct position you should find the point of highest idle rate then back it off 4 degrees. Can't verify whether that is the right thing to do though! If you Google your engine model at a key phrase like ""BTDC"" you should find the figures you are looking for. + +With regards to the smoke, could it simply be too much oil in the fuel? Do you know what the mixture is meant to be for that outboard? + +Stuart","Hey Benji, glad your motor is running a bit better now, and don't worry, your English is fine. + +I don't have the service manual for your motor hear unfortunately, but it is quite possible that it should be a bit advanced at idle. I think it should be about mid twenties BTDC at WOT. I read somewhere that if you don't know the correct position you should find the point of highest idle rate then back it off 4 degrees. Can't verify whether that is the right thing to do though! If you Google your engine model at a key phrase like ""BTDC"" you should find the figures you are looking for. + +With regards to the smoke, could it simply be too much oil in the fuel? Do you know what the mixture is meant to be for that outboard? + +Stuart",If you tip the motor up the carbs will drain if it drained while it was level then you need to check your carbs or do you have a fuel line leaking +"Hello. I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke (3 cyl) engine from early 80's somewhere. There are no numbers on the engine, so I'm not sure what model exactly. + +Before the boat season ended the engine ran very rough. Especially on idle, but it also made some noises in higher RPM's too. Also I felt it was using more fuel, but significantly loss in power. About 6-8 knots slower on full throttle. It also seemed like it was leaking some fuel or something too. the ocean didn't look too good when the boat stood still and engine was idling. + + +I've taken the engine into my garage for the winter and taken out the carburetors and cleaned them. +I let them lie in diesel for a day or so and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner (it's hard to find carberator cleaner over here) I also took out the reed valves and cleaned them lightly. + +I fired up the bad boy today and it still runs rough and coughing.. A lot of smoke too. + + +- I've checked for sparks, it seems pretty fine. Good clear sparks +- I've had a compression check on it too some hours ago. Looks very good. Even compression on all 3 cylinders. + +I also noticed that on cyl 2 and 3 fuel is leaking out of the choke plate. So I feel the problem is here or something with the carburetor adjustment. + +On the bright side it's VERY easy to start the engine. Therefore I don't think it's a mechanical issue inside the engine. + + + +I'm REALLY hoping I can get some help here. + +Cod season is in full bloom right now and the ocean here in norway is crawling with fish atm! It won't be long before it's over! + +just fyi I'm not a marine mechanic and have not worked so very much on 2 stroke engines, but I am an automotive mechanic so I've got some skill in this area.",Checked the flywheel key ?,Checked the flywheel key ?,Likely nothing----Pressure test to find the leak .------Install a complete seal kit to prevent leakage for the next 30 years. +"Hello. I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke (3 cyl) engine from early 80's somewhere. There are no numbers on the engine, so I'm not sure what model exactly. + +Before the boat season ended the engine ran very rough. Especially on idle, but it also made some noises in higher RPM's too. Also I felt it was using more fuel, but significantly loss in power. About 6-8 knots slower on full throttle. It also seemed like it was leaking some fuel or something too. the ocean didn't look too good when the boat stood still and engine was idling. + + +I've taken the engine into my garage for the winter and taken out the carburetors and cleaned them. +I let them lie in diesel for a day or so and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner (it's hard to find carberator cleaner over here) I also took out the reed valves and cleaned them lightly. + +I fired up the bad boy today and it still runs rough and coughing.. A lot of smoke too. + + +- I've checked for sparks, it seems pretty fine. Good clear sparks +- I've had a compression check on it too some hours ago. Looks very good. Even compression on all 3 cylinders. + +I also noticed that on cyl 2 and 3 fuel is leaking out of the choke plate. So I feel the problem is here or something with the carburetor adjustment. + +On the bright side it's VERY easy to start the engine. Therefore I don't think it's a mechanical issue inside the engine. + + + +I'm REALLY hoping I can get some help here. + +Cod season is in full bloom right now and the ocean here in norway is crawling with fish atm! It won't be long before it's over! + +just fyi I'm not a marine mechanic and have not worked so very much on 2 stroke engines, but I am an automotive mechanic so I've got some skill in this area.","Stuart Allen said: + + + + Hey Benji, glad your motor is running a bit better now, and don't worry, your English is fine. + +I don't have the service manual for your motor hear unfortunately, but it is quite possible that it should be a bit advanced at idle. I think it should be about mid twenties BTDC at WOT. I read somewhere that if you don't know the correct position you should find the point of highest idle rate then back it off 4 degrees. Can't verify whether that is the right thing to do though! If you Google your engine model at a key phrase like ""BTDC"" you should find the figures you are looking for. + +With regards to the smoke, could it simply be too much oil in the fuel? Do you know what the mixture is meant to be for that outboard? + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Okey, I found an old workshop manual in my house, so I will try to find the specs for ignition timing. +yes, i'm using right mixture for the engine, 1 dl oil per 5 litre fuel, thats what the manual says + +I'll post back here when I correct the timing - hopefully tomorrow. + +racerone: Ie Yes, it looked okey when i put on the flywheel. It was the first thing I checked because I had worries that it was broken..","Stuart Allen said: + + + + Hey Benji, glad your motor is running a bit better now, and don't worry, your English is fine. + +I don't have the service manual for your motor hear unfortunately, but it is quite possible that it should be a bit advanced at idle. I think it should be about mid twenties BTDC at WOT. I read somewhere that if you don't know the correct position you should find the point of highest idle rate then back it off 4 degrees. Can't verify whether that is the right thing to do though! If you Google your engine model at a key phrase like ""BTDC"" you should find the figures you are looking for. + +With regards to the smoke, could it simply be too much oil in the fuel? Do you know what the mixture is meant to be for that outboard? + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Okey, I found an old workshop manual in my house, so I will try to find the specs for ignition timing. +yes, i'm using right mixture for the engine, 1 dl oil per 5 litre fuel, thats what the manual says + +I'll post back here when I correct the timing - hopefully tomorrow. + +racerone: Ie Yes, it looked okey when i put on the flywheel. It was the first thing I checked because I had worries that it was broken..",Thx guys. I'll be trying something soon. Spark plugs were checked long ago. +"Hello. I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke (3 cyl) engine from early 80's somewhere. There are no numbers on the engine, so I'm not sure what model exactly. + +Before the boat season ended the engine ran very rough. Especially on idle, but it also made some noises in higher RPM's too. Also I felt it was using more fuel, but significantly loss in power. About 6-8 knots slower on full throttle. It also seemed like it was leaking some fuel or something too. the ocean didn't look too good when the boat stood still and engine was idling. + + +I've taken the engine into my garage for the winter and taken out the carburetors and cleaned them. +I let them lie in diesel for a day or so and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner (it's hard to find carberator cleaner over here) I also took out the reed valves and cleaned them lightly. + +I fired up the bad boy today and it still runs rough and coughing.. A lot of smoke too. + + +- I've checked for sparks, it seems pretty fine. Good clear sparks +- I've had a compression check on it too some hours ago. Looks very good. Even compression on all 3 cylinders. + +I also noticed that on cyl 2 and 3 fuel is leaking out of the choke plate. So I feel the problem is here or something with the carburetor adjustment. + +On the bright side it's VERY easy to start the engine. Therefore I don't think it's a mechanical issue inside the engine. + + + +I'm REALLY hoping I can get some help here. + +Cod season is in full bloom right now and the ocean here in norway is crawling with fish atm! It won't be long before it's over! + +just fyi I'm not a marine mechanic and have not worked so very much on 2 stroke engines, but I am an automotive mechanic so I've got some skill in this area.","I'm sorry that I haven't been posting anything. The engine was kinda put on hold because of crazy much work to do +in the workshop. + +GREAT NEWS! + +I noticed that the engine didn't get enough advance with the timing lamp. After a lot of messing around with the screws I noticed the linkage was put on the wrong way (see picture) + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +Probably my own doing when I built it from pull-start to starter motor. + +So the when I put the linkage on the right way I had to adjust the timing again (because I messed around with it so much) It still was alot of smoke from it, but I figured I give it a go in the ocean. I attached it to the boat today and holy mother how smooth it ran. It probably was good that I cleaned the carbs after all. + +It's running great. Super quick again and almost no misfirings. + + +Thanks everyone for commenting and helping me with these problems. Hopefully I won't get any more problems now with the engine. I'm going fishing tomorrow for sure!! + +CASE CLOSED!","I'm sorry that I haven't been posting anything. The engine was kinda put on hold because of crazy much work to do +in the workshop. + +GREAT NEWS! + +I noticed that the engine didn't get enough advance with the timing lamp. After a lot of messing around with the screws I noticed the linkage was put on the wrong way (see picture) + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +Probably my own doing when I built it from pull-start to starter motor. + +So the when I put the linkage on the right way I had to adjust the timing again (because I messed around with it so much) It still was alot of smoke from it, but I figured I give it a go in the ocean. I attached it to the boat today and holy mother how smooth it ran. It probably was good that I cleaned the carbs after all. + +It's running great. Super quick again and almost no misfirings. + + +Thanks everyone for commenting and helping me with these problems. Hopefully I won't get any more problems now with the engine. I'm going fishing tomorrow for sure!! + +CASE CLOSED!",Thanks for the info. I gave up and traded the boat for one that was water ready. +"Hello. I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke (3 cyl) engine from early 80's somewhere. There are no numbers on the engine, so I'm not sure what model exactly. + +Before the boat season ended the engine ran very rough. Especially on idle, but it also made some noises in higher RPM's too. Also I felt it was using more fuel, but significantly loss in power. About 6-8 knots slower on full throttle. It also seemed like it was leaking some fuel or something too. the ocean didn't look too good when the boat stood still and engine was idling. + + +I've taken the engine into my garage for the winter and taken out the carburetors and cleaned them. +I let them lie in diesel for a day or so and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner (it's hard to find carberator cleaner over here) I also took out the reed valves and cleaned them lightly. + +I fired up the bad boy today and it still runs rough and coughing.. A lot of smoke too. + + +- I've checked for sparks, it seems pretty fine. Good clear sparks +- I've had a compression check on it too some hours ago. Looks very good. Even compression on all 3 cylinders. + +I also noticed that on cyl 2 and 3 fuel is leaking out of the choke plate. So I feel the problem is here or something with the carburetor adjustment. + +On the bright side it's VERY easy to start the engine. Therefore I don't think it's a mechanical issue inside the engine. + + + +I'm REALLY hoping I can get some help here. + +Cod season is in full bloom right now and the ocean here in norway is crawling with fish atm! It won't be long before it's over! + +just fyi I'm not a marine mechanic and have not worked so very much on 2 stroke engines, but I am an automotive mechanic so I've got some skill in this area.","Hi, Im currently having the same problem with my 40hp yamaha. Well when i start it up, it will run in idle but when i get to about half throttle, it starts to back fire and jump around all over the place. Im pretty sure its due to the advance timing of the engine but was wondering what degrees it should be before TDC. I have searched the internet and can not find anything? I also noticed that someone on this thread stated somewhere around the mid twentys? Does anyone know the precise degrees? +And does anyone have a workshop manual to these engines? Many thanks, + +George + + + +Benji91 said: + + + + I'm sorry that I haven't been posting anything. The engine was kinda put on hold because of crazy much work to do +in the workshop. + +GREAT NEWS! + +I noticed that the engine didn't get enough advance with the timing lamp. After a lot of messing around with the screws I noticed the linkage was put on the wrong way (see picture) + + + + + + + + + + + + + +Probably my own doing when I built it from pull-start to starter motor. + +So the when I put the linkage on the right way I had to adjust the timing again (because I messed around with it so much) It still was alot of smoke from it, but I figured I give it a go in the ocean. I attached it to the boat today and holy mother how smooth it ran. It probably was good that I cleaned the carbs after all. + +It's running great. Super quick again and almost no misfirings. + + +Thanks everyone for commenting and helping me with these problems. Hopefully I won't get any more problems now with the engine. I'm going fishing tomorrow for sure!! + +CASE CLOSED! + +Click to expand...","Hi, Im currently having the same problem with my 40hp yamaha. Well when i start it up, it will run in idle but when i get to about half throttle, it starts to back fire and jump around all over the place. Im pretty sure its due to the advance timing of the engine but was wondering what degrees it should be before TDC. I have searched the internet and can not find anything? I also noticed that someone on this thread stated somewhere around the mid twentys? Does anyone know the precise degrees? +And does anyone have a workshop manual to these engines? Many thanks, + +George + + + +Benji91 said: + + + + I'm sorry that I haven't been posting anything. The engine was kinda put on hold because of crazy much work to do +in the workshop. + +GREAT NEWS! + +I noticed that the engine didn't get enough advance with the timing lamp. After a lot of messing around with the screws I noticed the linkage was put on the wrong way (see picture) + + + + + + + + + + + + + +Probably my own doing when I built it from pull-start to starter motor. + +So the when I put the linkage on the right way I had to adjust the timing again (because I messed around with it so much) It still was alot of smoke from it, but I figured I give it a go in the ocean. I attached it to the boat today and holy mother how smooth it ran. It probably was good that I cleaned the carbs after all. + +It's running great. Super quick again and almost no misfirings. + + +Thanks everyone for commenting and helping me with these problems. Hopefully I won't get any more problems now with the engine. I'm going fishing tomorrow for sure!! + +CASE CLOSED! + +Click to expand...","Hi, Do you still have the benevelli box thanks. john." +"Hello. I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke (3 cyl) engine from early 80's somewhere. There are no numbers on the engine, so I'm not sure what model exactly. + +Before the boat season ended the engine ran very rough. Especially on idle, but it also made some noises in higher RPM's too. Also I felt it was using more fuel, but significantly loss in power. About 6-8 knots slower on full throttle. It also seemed like it was leaking some fuel or something too. the ocean didn't look too good when the boat stood still and engine was idling. + + +I've taken the engine into my garage for the winter and taken out the carburetors and cleaned them. +I let them lie in diesel for a day or so and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner (it's hard to find carberator cleaner over here) I also took out the reed valves and cleaned them lightly. + +I fired up the bad boy today and it still runs rough and coughing.. A lot of smoke too. + + +- I've checked for sparks, it seems pretty fine. Good clear sparks +- I've had a compression check on it too some hours ago. Looks very good. Even compression on all 3 cylinders. + +I also noticed that on cyl 2 and 3 fuel is leaking out of the choke plate. So I feel the problem is here or something with the carburetor adjustment. + +On the bright side it's VERY easy to start the engine. Therefore I don't think it's a mechanical issue inside the engine. + + + +I'm REALLY hoping I can get some help here. + +Cod season is in full bloom right now and the ocean here in norway is crawling with fish atm! It won't be long before it's over! + +just fyi I'm not a marine mechanic and have not worked so very much on 2 stroke engines, but I am an automotive mechanic so I've got some skill in this area.",Checked the flywheel key ?,Checked the flywheel key ?,"Underneath and at the back of the rear , lower cowling." +"Hello. I have a Yamaha 40hp 2 stroke (3 cyl) engine from early 80's somewhere. There are no numbers on the engine, so I'm not sure what model exactly. + +Before the boat season ended the engine ran very rough. Especially on idle, but it also made some noises in higher RPM's too. Also I felt it was using more fuel, but significantly loss in power. About 6-8 knots slower on full throttle. It also seemed like it was leaking some fuel or something too. the ocean didn't look too good when the boat stood still and engine was idling. + + +I've taken the engine into my garage for the winter and taken out the carburetors and cleaned them. +I let them lie in diesel for a day or so and cleaned them with a little brake cleaner (it's hard to find carberator cleaner over here) I also took out the reed valves and cleaned them lightly. + +I fired up the bad boy today and it still runs rough and coughing.. A lot of smoke too. + + +- I've checked for sparks, it seems pretty fine. Good clear sparks +- I've had a compression check on it too some hours ago. Looks very good. Even compression on all 3 cylinders. + +I also noticed that on cyl 2 and 3 fuel is leaking out of the choke plate. So I feel the problem is here or something with the carburetor adjustment. + +On the bright side it's VERY easy to start the engine. Therefore I don't think it's a mechanical issue inside the engine. + + + +I'm REALLY hoping I can get some help here. + +Cod season is in full bloom right now and the ocean here in norway is crawling with fish atm! It won't be long before it's over! + +just fyi I'm not a marine mechanic and have not worked so very much on 2 stroke engines, but I am an automotive mechanic so I've got some skill in this area.",i have done already and its still in place and there.,i have done already and its still in place and there.,"I have the same engine and just use the plugs specified. Never had a problem with plugs. Plugs last forever these days and if they fail you have other issues causing them to fail in outboards given their use by recreational boaters. 100,000 miles on a car before plug problems show up? On a boat the plugs should last for years and years." +"Hello, + +I have an older 2004 carburated T50 four stroke. A steady stream of water comes out the small hole above the oil drain and beneath the rectangular above water exhaust ports. The hole is a small nipple sticking out about 3/8"" diameter. I never noticed it before and I don't think water ever came out there before. + +What is the hole and why am I getting water out there? + +Jeff","The oil drain screw is located underneath the lower unit, at it's lowest point until extending into the skeg. The rectangular exhaust ports are located in the engines midsection, otherwise known as the upper casing. These two points of reference you've listed are no where near each other. There is a nipple, as you've described, attached to a small diameter tube, located at the junction of the lower unit and upper casing, facing forward. This is the speedometer tube. And if this isn't what you're describing, best to post a picture to get an accurate response.","The oil drain screw is located underneath the lower unit, at it's lowest point until extending into the skeg. The rectangular exhaust ports are located in the engines midsection, otherwise known as the upper casing. These two points of reference you've listed are no where near each other. There is a nipple, as you've described, attached to a small diameter tube, located at the junction of the lower unit and upper casing, facing forward. This is the speedometer tube. And if this isn't what you're describing, best to post a picture to get an accurate response.","I just bought one from here. They were very knowledgeable about what i needed. In fact the dealer told me one spline count and they told me another. I questioned them and they assured me if wrong they would pay the shipping both ways. I wrote the person't name down and they were in fact correct. + +http://www.firstchoicemarine.com/#_" +"Hi everybody +I have 1986 yamaha 200 hp and no spark come to any cylinders. Before it had a spark but no fuel coming to cylinder now no spark is coming to both engines. I try to unplug the white wire from cdi but also no spark. +Anybody have an idea about this problem? +thank you",Check the lanyard.,Check the lanyard.,Yes. Lube nut on port side and retaining nut on stbd side both removed. +"Hi everybody +I have 1986 yamaha 200 hp and no spark come to any cylinders. Before it had a spark but no fuel coming to cylinder now no spark is coming to both engines. I try to unplug the white wire from cdi but also no spark. +Anybody have an idea about this problem? +thank you","I already checked the lanyard and it was OK. +And I tried switching it without control, its cranking with no spark.","I already checked the lanyard and it was OK. +And I tried switching it without control, its cranking with no spark.","Mounting the thruhulls as high as possible is great in theory but has some problems in the real world. The higher you mount the thruhull in relation to the pump discharge, the more head (the measured distance the water has to go up hill to be discharged) the less gph the pump will move. If this distance is more than 3 feet, expect a 20% loss in volume, resulting in your 3700 gph pump only moving 3100 gph. The higher you go, the less it will pump. The second problem is the more hose you have the more water will drain back into the bilge when the pump stops, which causes a wet bilge= humidity and dry rot/ mildew. Lastly, you need to maintain reasonable access to the seacock/thruhull fittings. I don't want to tear the cabin apart to install or service them. Are you sure all of your compartments aren't bilt over a common bilge?" +"Hi everybody +I have 1986 yamaha 200 hp and no spark come to any cylinders. Before it had a spark but no fuel coming to cylinder now no spark is coming to both engines. I try to unplug the white wire from cdi but also no spark. +Anybody have an idea about this problem? +thank you",Open the dash and disconnect the lanyard.,Open the dash and disconnect the lanyard.,"Brand or at least a picture would help....so may the vintage as well as what is on the other end. + +If a combined (throttle and gear selector) type, it could be the ""throttle only"" release button you are describing. used to advance the throttle, especially during starting, while disengaging the gear selector function." +"Hi everybody +I have 1986 yamaha 200 hp and no spark come to any cylinders. Before it had a spark but no fuel coming to cylinder now no spark is coming to both engines. I try to unplug the white wire from cdi but also no spark. +Anybody have an idea about this problem? +thank you","I already disconnect whole of control from the harness and I switch it but no spark. so, the problem is not from lanyard","I already disconnect whole of control from the harness and I switch it but no spark. so, the problem is not from lanyard",I am not fond of the twist nuts and I actually crimp with butt connectors. +"What is the best practice for fogging my 150 carbed two stroke 150? Run a mixture of really oily gas through it (20:1 Yamalube??)or spray down carb throats till motor stalls? Hoping for another month on the water before freezup. + +Tia","Forgive me but I've never heard of ""fogging"". Please describe what the reason is for fogging and I'll then know what you're referring to.","Forgive me but I've never heard of ""fogging"". Please describe what the reason is for fogging and I'll then know what you're referring to.","For spray can paint, you must use tower paint. They have spray cans that shoot 2 part paint, as well as epoxy primers. http://www.apstowerpaint.com/index.php +Otherwise, use Interlux Epoxy PrimeKote and topcoat with Perfection white. You'll need spray gear for best results, but you also get very good results brushing it." +"What is the best practice for fogging my 150 carbed two stroke 150? Run a mixture of really oily gas through it (20:1 Yamalube??)or spray down carb throats till motor stalls? Hoping for another month on the water before freezup. + +Tia",Fogging is what we do to our gas powered equipment in Canada before storing it for the winter. Keeps the cylinders and bearings from rusting up.,Fogging is what we do to our gas powered equipment in Canada before storing it for the winter. Keeps the cylinders and bearings from rusting up.,"Thanks for the response. Yes, the engine does sound winded out WOT. Kinda my suspicion too on the accuracy of the tach. Thanks for confirming that. At 34 MPH and a 15 foot duck boat I am extremely happy with it." +"What is the best practice for fogging my 150 carbed two stroke 150? Run a mixture of really oily gas through it (20:1 Yamalube??)or spray down carb throats till motor stalls? Hoping for another month on the water before freezup. + +Tia","Ah ha, gotcha. Sorry, my Canadian lingo isn't so good. The pic below is straight from Yamaha. Should provide you with all the answers.","Ah ha, gotcha. Sorry, my Canadian lingo isn't so good. The pic below is straight from Yamaha. Should provide you with all the answers.",as to the question on type of hose...use any good hose but not back rubber.... +"What is the best practice for fogging my 150 carbed two stroke 150? Run a mixture of really oily gas through it (20:1 Yamalube??)or spray down carb throats till motor stalls? Hoping for another month on the water before freezup. + +Tia",Through the fuel system,Through the fuel system,"Ayuh,.... Do the points close,..?? + +I'd replace the points, 'n try it, they fire the coil,.... + +Points are also an Annual maintenance item,.... regardless the hours run,...." +"What is the best practice for fogging my 150 carbed two stroke 150? Run a mixture of really oily gas through it (20:1 Yamalube??)or spray down carb throats till motor stalls? Hoping for another month on the water before freezup. + +Tia",Thanks for that.,Thanks for that.,"Ayuh,.... What prop is on it now, 'n what are the rpms at Wot,..??" +"What is the best practice for fogging my 150 carbed two stroke 150? Run a mixture of really oily gas through it (20:1 Yamalube??)or spray down carb throats till motor stalls? Hoping for another month on the water before freezup. + +Tia","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Through the fuel system + +Click to expand... + +Is there a fuel oil ratio you suggest? Just regular Yamalube ? +Thanks.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Through the fuel system + +Click to expand... + +Is there a fuel oil ratio you suggest? Just regular Yamalube ? +Thanks.","Sure you can. Marine epoxy (which regardless of brand is a thermoplastic - BPA, the stuff banned from baby bottles) will stick to just about anything including polyester or vinylester (the more common) resins used in modern fiberglass boats. + +Marine epoxy is superior in many respects to the ""ester"" versions (but significantly more expensive) and they bond to each other just fine if the surface is properly cured and prepped (roughed with 80 grit sandpaper). + +On a job that size I just can`t figure why you would mix the two products. WEST epoxy is perfect for doing hand layups of fiberglass cloth (the cloth doesn`t care what type or brand is used to make it stick) and marine epoxy is far more resistant to water intrusion than polyester or vinylester (don`t believe the hype, none are 100 percent waterproof)." +"Will be putting my 150 Prov V to sleep for the winter in about a month. Would I be better to store gas with stabilizer in it or try to empty the tank? Quite a bit easier to store full. It's a 35 gallon tank. + +Tia.","Preferably....drain the tank, air and dry it out for winter storage. Siphon fuel into cans and mix in stabilizer. However, I must say you'd never catch me using 6 month old fuel, regardless of its stabilizer mixing. Using old fuel will cause far more dollars in repairs than the $100 you'd lose by disposing of the fuel.","Preferably....drain the tank, air and dry it out for winter storage. Siphon fuel into cans and mix in stabilizer. However, I must say you'd never catch me using 6 month old fuel, regardless of its stabilizer mixing. Using old fuel will cause far more dollars in repairs than the $100 you'd lose by disposing of the fuel.","The repair shop give you the old parts? +The condition of the thermo's can be an indicator of the condition of the cooling passages. + +When I work on an overheat: I use a heat gun and gauge the temp on all areas of the block. +Early 90's 40hp Yam that was running hot. +The thermo was clogged completely and the cooling passages were blocked abut 60-70% +The top cooling passages weren't hot the bottom was. +I removed the head and cleaned the passages with a screwdriver and ice pick. +After the clean it ran(still runs) great. +Turns out the 40 was on a pontoon that NEVER got flushed after use in salt water + +Do like Racerone suggested remove the head and inspect." +"Will be putting my 150 Prov V to sleep for the winter in about a month. Would I be better to store gas with stabilizer in it or try to empty the tank? Quite a bit easier to store full. It's a 35 gallon tank. + +Tia.","Just curious, do you not believe fuel stabilizers work? Thanks for your reply.","Just curious, do you not believe fuel stabilizers work? Thanks for your reply.","boscoe said: + + + + A ground has to go from the block, to the remote tank sensor, across the sensor and to the CDI. Via a problematic connector or two. + +A ground has to go from the block, to the main oil tank sensor, across the sensor and to the CDI. + +A lack of either ground will inhibit the automatic transfer system. + +Click to expand... + + +My print shows an ecm (electronic control module) is that the same as a CDI? +I have a ground on the black wires would that eliminate a bad connection on the block? +I have checked continuity on both sensors the next thing I could is check voltage. +I don't like sticking pins in the wires is that my only option" +"Will be putting my 150 Prov V to sleep for the winter in about a month. Would I be better to store gas with stabilizer in it or try to empty the tank? Quite a bit easier to store full. It's a 35 gallon tank. + +Tia.","Nucad said: + + + + Just curious, do you not believe fuel stabilizers work? Thanks for your reply. + +Click to expand... + + +I do, and use a fuel stabilizer routinely. But as it relates to your situation, I wouldn't trust a stabilizer to maintain a tank of fuel over the course of 6 months. I have no scientific data which supports my opinion, it just seems realistic to me. Besides, it's not like you're trying to save 100+ gallons of fuel for 6 months. You're trying to save 100+ dollars. Seems logical to me to evacuate tank of fuel for the 6 months to completely offset any future fuel tank issues. Siphon the fuel into cans and add the stabilizer if you're really motivated to keep the 35g of fuel to use 6 months from now.","Nucad said: + + + + Just curious, do you not believe fuel stabilizers work? Thanks for your reply. + +Click to expand... + + +I do, and use a fuel stabilizer routinely. But as it relates to your situation, I wouldn't trust a stabilizer to maintain a tank of fuel over the course of 6 months. I have no scientific data which supports my opinion, it just seems realistic to me. Besides, it's not like you're trying to save 100+ gallons of fuel for 6 months. You're trying to save 100+ dollars. Seems logical to me to evacuate tank of fuel for the 6 months to completely offset any future fuel tank issues. Siphon the fuel into cans and add the stabilizer if you're really motivated to keep the 35g of fuel to use 6 months from now.",are you talking 15volts or 15 amps?15volts is correct for regulated outboard charging system.. +"Will be putting my 150 Prov V to sleep for the winter in about a month. Would I be better to store gas with stabilizer in it or try to empty the tank? Quite a bit easier to store full. It's a 35 gallon tank. + +Tia.",I think what I will try to do is try to run the tanks near empty with stabilized fuel in them. That way when Spring comes I can dilute this with fresh gas. I guess my concern was with the potential for water getting in the tank through condensation when it is not stored full. Still hopefully have a month of boating ahead.,I think what I will try to do is try to run the tanks near empty with stabilized fuel in them. That way when Spring comes I can dilute this with fresh gas. I guess my concern was with the potential for water getting in the tank through condensation when it is not stored full. Still hopefully have a month of boating ahead.,"kkofoed said: + + + + Thank Bondo, I did find a diagram on how the PAS works. In the meantime I connected both cables to the PAS, both helms now steer but are still very difficult and jerky. I am thinking I really need to connect the upper steering helm to the lower helm. Then have a single cable go to the PAS. Unfortunately I cannot find a rack & pinion cable that goes from one rack & pinion helm to the other rack & pinion helm. I see where I can order the a rotary system that will work but would require me to replaced all helms and cables (too much $$$). Do you know of any one that makes custom steering cables? Thanks + +View attachment 16607View attachment 16608 + +Click to expand... + +If you even have the room under the dash for the rotary system. By any chance is the lower helm a non feedback helm?" +"Will be putting my 150 Prov V to sleep for the winter in about a month. Would I be better to store gas with stabilizer in it or try to empty the tank? Quite a bit easier to store full. It's a 35 gallon tank. + +Tia.","The potential for condensation is really a lot lower than the common dock myth will lead you to believe....read the instructions on the stabilizer - proper quantity should work for six months with no problem....that said, if you want to evacuate the tank, get burn it in the truck....","The potential for condensation is really a lot lower than the common dock myth will lead you to believe....read the instructions on the stabilizer - proper quantity should work for six months with no problem....that said, if you want to evacuate the tank, get burn it in the truck....","boscoe said: + + + + What is a Saltwater Series II model? There is no such thing? + +Give us the model of the motor please. + +Click to expand... + + +The graphics where used up to the year 2005 for the Saltwater Series II .Here is one example SX200TXRD" +"Will be putting my 150 Prov V to sleep for the winter in about a month. Would I be better to store gas with stabilizer in it or try to empty the tank? Quite a bit easier to store full. It's a 35 gallon tank. + +Tia.","I'd have to buy a pump to get the gas out of two 35 gallon tanks, but Since my car only holds ten gallons it would take some time to burn it up. Hopefully I get some good boating in between now and December.","I'd have to buy a pump to get the gas out of two 35 gallon tanks, but Since my car only holds ten gallons it would take some time to burn it up. Hopefully I get some good boating in between now and December.","great good to know, best of lucks" +"Will be putting my 150 Prov V to sleep for the winter in about a month. Would I be better to store gas with stabilizer in it or try to empty the tank? Quite a bit easier to store full. It's a 35 gallon tank. + +Tia.","Most boats have a water separator with a capacity of at least a pint or more. I don't believe most cars o​r trucks would be able to tolerate that much water without expensive damage occurring. The last time I was at the Toyota dealer, the labor rate was well over $125 per hour. At that rate, just dropping and cleaning the gas tank would be a $400 proposition. If other parts are damaged, the tab would be even higher and any warranty would not cover such damage. Unless you are absolutely sure the fuel is free of water or other contaminants, I would resist pouring it into any modern vehicle. One option might be to put it in the ""free"" section of Craigslist. Someone with carbureted equipment might find it useful for their snowblower, tractor or lawn equipment. For my purposes, trying to save a few bucks by storing and reusing the fuel doesn't seem to be worth the risk.","Most boats have a water separator with a capacity of at least a pint or more. I don't believe most cars o​r trucks would be able to tolerate that much water without expensive damage occurring. The last time I was at the Toyota dealer, the labor rate was well over $125 per hour. At that rate, just dropping and cleaning the gas tank would be a $400 proposition. If other parts are damaged, the tab would be even higher and any warranty would not cover such damage. Unless you are absolutely sure the fuel is free of water or other contaminants, I would resist pouring it into any modern vehicle. One option might be to put it in the ""free"" section of Craigslist. Someone with carbureted equipment might find it useful for their snowblower, tractor or lawn equipment. For my purposes, trying to save a few bucks by storing and reusing the fuel doesn't seem to be worth the risk.","If you camshafts are switched the valve timing will be incorrect. To check, get the engine at number 1 rocking, ie intake should be just starting to open and exhaust closing" +My yamaha 115TLRA needs a new tach. it currently has the yamaha digital mutli gauge. I would like to convert it to an aftermarket digital or analog plain jane tach. Will this be difficult and is there a particular tach someone can recommend?,"I wouldn't advise using a non-yamaha tach, as you'll lose the visual alarms. But if the reason you're opting for an aftermarket tach is because of the big cost of replacing your yam digital multifunction tach, there is one option to consider. Visit this website: www.gaugesaver.com + +This guy reconditions yam tachs and speeds, function and look like they were brand new. $50 + shipping cost. Can't beat that.","I wouldn't advise using a non-yamaha tach, as you'll lose the visual alarms. But if the reason you're opting for an aftermarket tach is because of the big cost of replacing your yam digital multifunction tach, there is one option to consider. Visit this website: www.gaugesaver.com + +This guy reconditions yam tachs and speeds, function and look like they were brand new. $50 + shipping cost. Can't beat that.","Hi Guys, + +My boat has TX Control trim tabs. Purchased somewhere between 1991 and 1995. Now this little shell which keeps the 'quill' in the tube broke down. Does anybody know where to get this part?" +"I Have a yamaha 1999 out board 200 (2 stroke) motor and it has two holes on the lower level. +These two holes are leaking oil; does anyone know what I can do to fix this?","serega said: + + + + I Have a yamaha 1999 out board 200 (2 stroke) motor and it has two holes on the lower level. +These two holes are leaking oil; does anyone know what I can do to fix this? + +Click to expand... + +Could I take a picture ? + +in condition, I do not see a picture, + +It may be that oil sludge? + +and, I wonder what is lower level?","serega said: + + + + I Have a yamaha 1999 out board 200 (2 stroke) motor and it has two holes on the lower level. +These two holes are leaking oil; does anyone know what I can do to fix this? + +Click to expand... + +Could I take a picture ? + +in condition, I do not see a picture, + +It may be that oil sludge? + +and, I wonder what is lower level?",Thanks Dockside... +"Will be putting my 150 Prov V to sleep for the winter in about a month. Would I be better to store gas with stabilizer in it or try to empty the tank? Quite a bit easier to store full. It's a 35 gallon tank. + +Tia.",Keep it in the tank ...,Keep it in the tank ...,Disconnect the wire at the distributor and you should have spark on all four plug wires. To kill the motor you short that wire to engine ground. If you applied battery pos to the distributor you need to get a new coil in the driver assy. May as well replace the two sets of points and condenser. There are two M terminals on the ignition switch one goes to ground and the other goes to the magneto. +"New to forum. An owner, not a mechanic. There is water getting into the lower unit of my outboard. The lower unit oil when drained is split pea soup colored. Motor still runs fine. +My questions are: Excluding the two screws used for adding and draining the lower unit oil, what are the other places where water can enter the lower unit? Could seals be damaged when the impeller is changed? +Just trying to get an idea of how complicated the problem might be before the motor sees a mechanic. +Thanks for any help.","Seals are not damaged when an impeller is changed !----In a cold / freezing climate ??-----Yamaha seals sometimes are "" all rubber "" and may not grip in housings after many years.-----Not an impossible job to install a seal kit yourself.","Seals are not damaged when an impeller is changed !----In a cold / freezing climate ??-----Yamaha seals sometimes are "" all rubber "" and may not grip in housings after many years.-----Not an impossible job to install a seal kit yourself.",Does it look like this? +"New to forum. An owner, not a mechanic. There is water getting into the lower unit of my outboard. The lower unit oil when drained is split pea soup colored. Motor still runs fine. +My questions are: Excluding the two screws used for adding and draining the lower unit oil, what are the other places where water can enter the lower unit? Could seals be damaged when the impeller is changed? +Just trying to get an idea of how complicated the problem might be before the motor sees a mechanic. +Thanks for any help.","racerone said: + + + + Seals are not damaged when an impeller is changed !----In a cold / freezing climate ??-----Yamaha seals sometimes are "" all rubber "" and may not grip in housings after many years.-----Not an impossible job to install a seal kit yourself. + +Click to expand... + + +Are there other points of water entry other than the seals?","racerone said: + + + + Seals are not damaged when an impeller is changed !----In a cold / freezing climate ??-----Yamaha seals sometimes are "" all rubber "" and may not grip in housings after many years.-----Not an impossible job to install a seal kit yourself. + +Click to expand... + + +Are there other points of water entry other than the seals?",Did you ever get this off? Genius me sheared off the other fitting trying to remove it to clean it out. And now I've found replacement parts but the rest of it is seized on and I'm afraid to crack my tank if I twist too hard. +"New to forum. An owner, not a mechanic. There is water getting into the lower unit of my outboard. The lower unit oil when drained is split pea soup colored. Motor still runs fine. +My questions are: Excluding the two screws used for adding and draining the lower unit oil, what are the other places where water can enter the lower unit? Could seals be damaged when the impeller is changed? +Just trying to get an idea of how complicated the problem might be before the motor sees a mechanic. +Thanks for any help.",Sorry---I guess your best approach is to hurry to a shop.---Have them pressure test the lower unit.----Ask them to fix the leak.----All it takes is $$$,Sorry---I guess your best approach is to hurry to a shop.---Have them pressure test the lower unit.----Ask them to fix the leak.----All it takes is $$$,"The efficiency difference between a 12 vdc motor and a 120 vac motor is great. + I'd be quite surprised if they worked well, and/or with any efficiency. +Most people that I am in touch with use either an O/B Marine generator, or one of the Honda EU series generators to power AC units." +"New to forum. An owner, not a mechanic. There is water getting into the lower unit of my outboard. The lower unit oil when drained is split pea soup colored. Motor still runs fine. +My questions are: Excluding the two screws used for adding and draining the lower unit oil, what are the other places where water can enter the lower unit? Could seals be damaged when the impeller is changed? +Just trying to get an idea of how complicated the problem might be before the motor sees a mechanic. +Thanks for any help.","If water has intruded into the gear box it's because you've got at least 1 bad seal. Good thing you caught it earlier enough before real damage was done. Depending on your level of comfort with engine mechanics, replacing seals is pretty straight forward. Make sure you have the specific model year service manual for your engine handy before digging in.","If water has intruded into the gear box it's because you've got at least 1 bad seal. Good thing you caught it earlier enough before real damage was done. Depending on your level of comfort with engine mechanics, replacing seals is pretty straight forward. Make sure you have the specific model year service manual for your engine handy before digging in.",What year and model/serial# +"New to forum. An owner, not a mechanic. There is water getting into the lower unit of my outboard. The lower unit oil when drained is split pea soup colored. Motor still runs fine. +My questions are: Excluding the two screws used for adding and draining the lower unit oil, what are the other places where water can enter the lower unit? Could seals be damaged when the impeller is changed? +Just trying to get an idea of how complicated the problem might be before the motor sees a mechanic. +Thanks for any help.","Thanks for your insights. With my level of expertise with engine mechanics, as ""racerone"" said, I ""better hurry to the shop"" and have a professional do the work.","Thanks for your insights. With my level of expertise with engine mechanics, as ""racerone"" said, I ""better hurry to the shop"" and have a professional do the work.","Go with the marine grade wires, especially if you are running in saltwater. The demands you are putting on a marine engine are much higher than on an auto or truck - running at higher rpm's, and the equivalent of constantly pulling a loaded trailer up hill. If you are running on a fresh water lake, and just tooling around most of the time, then you might get away with a good set of auto wires on and IB or IO. Never on an outboard." +"I'm looking at a boat online and the seller doesn't know what year this engine is. Can any of you suggest a year or year range. Also, bonus question: any comments on the pluses/minuses of this model and /or things to look for, specific to this model, before buying? + +Thank you in advance (you can tell I'm Canadian, eh?), + +Kerry Thompson","Have the owner look for the serial number plate, located starboard side of engine bracket. Use the pictures below as a guide. Once you have the information on the plate you can then determine the year. I can, however, tell you as a matter of fact the engine is older than 1998. I have a '98 115 and my top cowling is much different than the one you have pictured. So I'm guessing it's an early 90's model, late 80's at most. + + + + + + +As far as specifics to the engine in question....I don't know the model or year, so no point in guessing. With that said, it's a 2 stroke engine. Yamaha produced excellent 2 stroke outboards. The condition of the engine is proportional to how it's been maintained throughout the 20+ years. It's no cliche....a well maintained 2 stroke outboard will run indefinitely. It's a good the engine you're looking at is still hanging on a transom. There is no amount of diagnostic testing that is more important than the outcome of how the engine performs while under load. So before you buy I highly suggest a sea trial, including running the engine at WOT. If something is amiss, it will show itself when you're pushing the engine hard. Which is what you want to know. Good luck.","Have the owner look for the serial number plate, located starboard side of engine bracket. Use the pictures below as a guide. Once you have the information on the plate you can then determine the year. I can, however, tell you as a matter of fact the engine is older than 1998. I have a '98 115 and my top cowling is much different than the one you have pictured. So I'm guessing it's an early 90's model, late 80's at most. + + + + + + +As far as specifics to the engine in question....I don't know the model or year, so no point in guessing. With that said, it's a 2 stroke engine. Yamaha produced excellent 2 stroke outboards. The condition of the engine is proportional to how it's been maintained throughout the 20+ years. It's no cliche....a well maintained 2 stroke outboard will run indefinitely. It's a good the engine you're looking at is still hanging on a transom. There is no amount of diagnostic testing that is more important than the outcome of how the engine performs while under load. So before you buy I highly suggest a sea trial, including running the engine at WOT. If something is amiss, it will show itself when you're pushing the engine hard. Which is what you want to know. Good luck.",Harness connections look good but I cleaned them ..now back to looking for a common ground thas not right +"I'm looking at a boat online and the seller doesn't know what year this engine is. Can any of you suggest a year or year range. Also, bonus question: any comments on the pluses/minuses of this model and /or things to look for, specific to this model, before buying? + +Thank you in advance (you can tell I'm Canadian, eh?), + +Kerry Thompson","What you have there is 1995 model 2-stroke V4 ... that particular model is a hard working motor, the guys over here use them on their deep sea fishing boats running WOT for hours on end. It should start and run first time every time. If it doesn't do a compression test.","What you have there is 1995 model 2-stroke V4 ... that particular model is a hard working motor, the guys over here use them on their deep sea fishing boats running WOT for hours on end. It should start and run first time every time. If it doesn't do a compression test.",ok ill try it thanks +"My waterski boat has two very large deepcycle batteries at the back. This is lot's of uneeded weight that does not do the wake any favours. I am told these deep cycle batteries are very hard on the charging system. Trying to lighten the boat and redistribute the weight.Was thinking of maybe going with an expensive Lithium battery and moving it to the front. How many amp hours give you a good margin on a 1992 Yamaha Pro V two stroke? Any suggestions for lighter weight batteries? + +Tia.",First off your correct about deep cycle they are slower to charge just by design. the recommendation is a battery with between 1000 and 1050 MCA. 1000 is available in frame 24 and will be the lightest you can use a pair but make sure you use an isolator and try to run one as your full time starting battery and the other as the house battery. start your boat and make your runs use your electronics as you like when getting ready to return to port start the engine then switch it to battery two to charge on the way in. This will balance the battery use and reduce the strain on the charging system. Never Lithium in a boat they are not designed for that kind of use and the charging system may not be able to handle it.,First off your correct about deep cycle they are slower to charge just by design. the recommendation is a battery with between 1000 and 1050 MCA. 1000 is available in frame 24 and will be the lightest you can use a pair but make sure you use an isolator and try to run one as your full time starting battery and the other as the house battery. start your boat and make your runs use your electronics as you like when getting ready to return to port start the engine then switch it to battery two to charge on the way in. This will balance the battery use and reduce the strain on the charging system. Never Lithium in a boat they are not designed for that kind of use and the charging system may not be able to handle it.,I'd suggest reposting in the Volvo Penta area of the Gas Inboards section of the forum...there's lots of knowledgeable individuals there...Id suspect the 4 cylinder GM EST distributor may work...depends on the block used... +"My waterski boat has two very large deepcycle batteries at the back. This is lot's of uneeded weight that does not do the wake any favours. I am told these deep cycle batteries are very hard on the charging system. Trying to lighten the boat and redistribute the weight.Was thinking of maybe going with an expensive Lithium battery and moving it to the front. How many amp hours give you a good margin on a 1992 Yamaha Pro V two stroke? Any suggestions for lighter weight batteries? + +Tia.",Ok thanks. What do you think of the Oddessey line of batteries? They have some that might fit under the passenger seat.,Ok thanks. What do you think of the Oddessey line of batteries? They have some that might fit under the passenger seat.,Yeah I'd give the deck a good soapy wash down to remove fuel residue. +"My waterski boat has two very large deepcycle batteries at the back. This is lot's of uneeded weight that does not do the wake any favours. I am told these deep cycle batteries are very hard on the charging system. Trying to lighten the boat and redistribute the weight.Was thinking of maybe going with an expensive Lithium battery and moving it to the front. How many amp hours give you a good margin on a 1992 Yamaha Pro V two stroke? Any suggestions for lighter weight batteries? + +Tia.","Nucad said: + + + + Ok thanks. What do you think of the Oddessey line of batteries? They have some that might fit under the passenger seat. + +Click to expand... + + +Never used one. However, the technology to produce a marine battery isn't a closely guarded secret. I recon any of the major brands is a safe bet, plus it comes with a warranty just in case.","Nucad said: + + + + Ok thanks. What do you think of the Oddessey line of batteries? They have some that might fit under the passenger seat. + +Click to expand... + + +Never used one. However, the technology to produce a marine battery isn't a closely guarded secret. I recon any of the major brands is a safe bet, plus it comes with a warranty just in case.","Check Engine Light +Diagnostic Trouble Codes +Remote Control + +I would check all battery connections including the battery switches.... And the Hub Power connection." +"My waterski boat has two very large deepcycle batteries at the back. This is lot's of uneeded weight that does not do the wake any favours. I am told these deep cycle batteries are very hard on the charging system. Trying to lighten the boat and redistribute the weight.Was thinking of maybe going with an expensive Lithium battery and moving it to the front. How many amp hours give you a good margin on a 1992 Yamaha Pro V two stroke? Any suggestions for lighter weight batteries? + +Tia.","Any Battery rated for marine use and with sufficient MCA is fine, very little difference in the way they are assembled. Warranty may be the only difference today.","Any Battery rated for marine use and with sufficient MCA is fine, very little difference in the way they are assembled. Warranty may be the only difference today.",You may have to upgrade to a better steering system due to the higher HP engine. +"My waterski boat has two very large deepcycle batteries at the back. This is lot's of uneeded weight that does not do the wake any favours. I am told these deep cycle batteries are very hard on the charging system. Trying to lighten the boat and redistribute the weight.Was thinking of maybe going with an expensive Lithium battery and moving it to the front. How many amp hours give you a good margin on a 1992 Yamaha Pro V two stroke? Any suggestions for lighter weight batteries? + +Tia.",Do you have a volt meter on the dash? The issue with maintenance free batteries is they store energy more effeciently and can/will create over charging issues. Keep a close eye on battery voltage anything over 15 volts and stuff starts getting hot under the flywheel. It can snowball into the ignition and get real expensive real fast. Due to the high rpm our outboards run a standard marine grade lead acid battery is recommended the weight is not an issue IMO do you want to risk expensive engine repairs? your engine calls for 380cca 70AH 124 minutes reserve,Do you have a volt meter on the dash? The issue with maintenance free batteries is they store energy more effeciently and can/will create over charging issues. Keep a close eye on battery voltage anything over 15 volts and stuff starts getting hot under the flywheel. It can snowball into the ignition and get real expensive real fast. Due to the high rpm our outboards run a standard marine grade lead acid battery is recommended the weight is not an issue IMO do you want to risk expensive engine repairs? your engine calls for 380cca 70AH 124 minutes reserve,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + This basic piece of information is located in your owners manual. If you don't have one they can be downloaded online for free. + +View attachment 15901 + +Click to expand... + +I know this, but since it has never been turned it's frozen. Blaster didn't help. I'm seeking an electrical connection bypass to lower the unit (like I raised it). BTW, it was the Blue positive wire on tilt motor not a Red that to touched to positive battery pole that raised it. +Thanks for timely reply." +"My waterski boat has two very large deepcycle batteries at the back. This is lot's of uneeded weight that does not do the wake any favours. I am told these deep cycle batteries are very hard on the charging system. Trying to lighten the boat and redistribute the weight.Was thinking of maybe going with an expensive Lithium battery and moving it to the front. How many amp hours give you a good margin on a 1992 Yamaha Pro V two stroke? Any suggestions for lighter weight batteries? + +Tia.","I plan on getting a Voltage gauge. Does the Yamaha 150 generate enough amps to power any accessories, like a radio and GPS and still keep the battery charged up? + +Thanks.","I plan on getting a Voltage gauge. Does the Yamaha 150 generate enough amps to power any accessories, like a radio and GPS and still keep the battery charged up? + +Thanks.","aliboy said: + + + + Was the solenoid clicking when you tried to start, or was there a 'buzzing' noise of any sort? + +Click to expand... + + +There was nothing...at first. I was really baffled. I was getting absolutely nothing, anywhere. Gages, lights, nothing. So I removed the Battery switch and direct wired the motor to the battery, and checked the batteries. Both batteries were fully charged. And I even put my jump pack on it just to be sure to see if an extra boost would help. + +Direct wiring it to the battery, I got the ""buzz"" that I normally get from the motor when the key is in the on position. But no more than one ""click"" at the start position. And after that, the buzz was gone, the gages, lights, etc were all out as well. Turn the key to the full off position, And the process just repeated itself. + +On the tow in, I tried to start it again, just cuz I had nothing better to do, and the motor was turning over just fine, no trouble. But no start either...was just turning over. Didn't seem like I was getting any fire. It wasn't flooded, no fuel smell at all...wondering if I was getting any fuel at all. Does the ECM on these shut things off like fuel pump and ignition if it's not getting timing codes from cam/crank sensors similar to the cars of the 90's? + +Was just really bizarre." +"My waterski boat has two very large deepcycle batteries at the back. This is lot's of uneeded weight that does not do the wake any favours. I am told these deep cycle batteries are very hard on the charging system. Trying to lighten the boat and redistribute the weight.Was thinking of maybe going with an expensive Lithium battery and moving it to the front. How many amp hours give you a good margin on a 1992 Yamaha Pro V two stroke? Any suggestions for lighter weight batteries? + +Tia.",Like was said run accys on the other battery you can get a automatic isolator that once the engine battery is fully charget it will automatically switch to the house circuit. Do you have a separate house circuit going to a fuse block? There are lots of upgrades you can do yes the charging system. Your engine puts out between 25-45 amps per hour depending on engine RPM and can easily handle multiple appliances.,Like was said run accys on the other battery you can get a automatic isolator that once the engine battery is fully charget it will automatically switch to the house circuit. Do you have a separate house circuit going to a fuse block? There are lots of upgrades you can do yes the charging system. Your engine puts out between 25-45 amps per hour depending on engine RPM and can easily handle multiple appliances.,ditto +"My waterski boat has two very large deepcycle batteries at the back. This is lot's of uneeded weight that does not do the wake any favours. I am told these deep cycle batteries are very hard on the charging system. Trying to lighten the boat and redistribute the weight.Was thinking of maybe going with an expensive Lithium battery and moving it to the front. How many amp hours give you a good margin on a 1992 Yamaha Pro V two stroke? Any suggestions for lighter weight batteries? + +Tia.","I'd much prefer to run the whole thing on one battery. I have about 100 pounds of batteries on an 1800 pound ski boat. 65 Pounds less would be good. Every bit should improve the wake. I'd like to keep the Lorrance GPS and . The boat has a sound system, but not sure I will use it.","I'd much prefer to run the whole thing on one battery. I have about 100 pounds of batteries on an 1800 pound ski boat. 65 Pounds less would be good. Every bit should improve the wake. I'd like to keep the Lorrance GPS and . The boat has a sound system, but not sure I will use it.","you can buy military (watertight) connectors - look up ""38999 connectors"" - as one option...size the pins to match the wires and you will be find. + +It would probably be faster to just buy a new engine harness and a matching new instrument panel harness. + +If the engine is pre-ECU, another option is to just make a new harness (from the instrument panel to the engine) and eliminate the connector...if the engine has to be removed, its not that difficult to just disconnect the wire ends...and you never have to worry about the connector pins and sockets corroding..." +"My waterski boat has two very large deepcycle batteries at the back. This is lot's of uneeded weight that does not do the wake any favours. I am told these deep cycle batteries are very hard on the charging system. Trying to lighten the boat and redistribute the weight.Was thinking of maybe going with an expensive Lithium battery and moving it to the front. How many amp hours give you a good margin on a 1992 Yamaha Pro V two stroke? Any suggestions for lighter weight batteries? + +Tia.",The issue is the engine will be putting out the power whether you use it or not. Install a volt meter so you can monitor it real time. The standard lead acid battery will not overcharge same as a sealed maintenace free battery. Battery maintenance or failure counts for 50% of all engine failures. You can just use one battery the volt meter will tell you if there are any issues you need to address. A standard marine grade battery should serve you just fine.The 20lbs difference will not make any difference in the wake.,The issue is the engine will be putting out the power whether you use it or not. Install a volt meter so you can monitor it real time. The standard lead acid battery will not overcharge same as a sealed maintenace free battery. Battery maintenance or failure counts for 50% of all engine failures. You can just use one battery the volt meter will tell you if there are any issues you need to address. A standard marine grade battery should serve you just fine.The 20lbs difference will not make any difference in the wake.,make sure the bow of that boat is not bouncing up and down on that trailer...it must be up against the stop and secure and move only with the trailer..a bouncing bow will result in a uncomfortable tow.. +Neither trim switch or start switch work. The trim motor works by applying leads to battery. The starter works by jumping battery cable to solenoid. Are all three switches interlocked some where? All three failed at the same time.,"Just so were on the same page....the trim switch you're referring to is the thumb switch located on the remote controls throttle lever? The ""start switch"" you're referring to is the keyed ignition?","Just so were on the same page....the trim switch you're referring to is the thumb switch located on the remote controls throttle lever? The ""start switch"" you're referring to is the keyed ignition?",west marine near you?i have found them to have a pretty good stock plus the got good people and can go through the books and usually order what you need...not cheap but quality stuff in the stores...they do almost no advertising in the fishing boat area...i was retired before i even knew they had a store here..i questioned them on this and they said they are geared toward the large boat business..but they take all the time in the world every time i need anything...its worth the time just to look at their inventory..especially the electronics... +Neither trim switch or start switch work. The trim motor works by applying leads to battery. The starter works by jumping battery cable to solenoid. Are all three switches interlocked some where? All three failed at the same time.,"Thanks for answering. The motor ran fine. When I got home, the trim switches and the start switch did not function. No clicks nothing. All three switches failed at the same time. I got the motor down by leaking the fluid and proceeded to check. So far, 13.5v at the motor, all fuses, ptt solenoid and start motor. Checked the trim motor by connecting to battery. Runs fine. Checked start motor by jumping solenoid to battery line. It fires up. Still no action from start switch, the trim switch on the motor nor the trim switch in the throttle quad.","Thanks for answering. The motor ran fine. When I got home, the trim switches and the start switch did not function. No clicks nothing. All three switches failed at the same time. I got the motor down by leaking the fluid and proceeded to check. So far, 13.5v at the motor, all fuses, ptt solenoid and start motor. Checked the trim motor by connecting to battery. Runs fine. Checked start motor by jumping solenoid to battery line. It fires up. Still no action from start switch, the trim switch on the motor nor the trim switch in the throttle quad.","Maybe its not fuel, maybe it's electrical because it doesn't bog down all the time. What tests should I do to see if it's electrical? + + I don't want to burn a piston!!!" +Neither trim switch or start switch work. The trim motor works by applying leads to battery. The starter works by jumping battery cable to solenoid. Are all three switches interlocked some where? All three failed at the same time.,Sounds like the cable from the engine to your console and controls may have an issue. Start with a meter and check the lines from the switches to see if the lines are intact to the motor. also check all points on the main cable to make sure there are no hot spots (short) or serious kinks that may have caused a break in the wires. I would also check your kill switch again look for continuity when you have the clip in place.,Sounds like the cable from the engine to your console and controls may have an issue. Start with a meter and check the lines from the switches to see if the lines are intact to the motor. also check all points on the main cable to make sure there are no hot spots (short) or serious kinks that may have caused a break in the wires. I would also check your kill switch again look for continuity when you have the clip in place.,"Kadoom said: + + + + would not turn off by turning the key off! but with the key in the off position and removing jump wire it stopped! + +Click to expand... + +Please read post #4 again. + +I'm not concerned with the jumper preventing the key switch from killing the ignition. +It only makes sense that the jumper would by-pass the key switch power, and render the key ""OFF"" an unusable function. + +I'm more concerned with just how the jumper is affecting the spark, and the answers to my 2 questions in post #4. + + +BTW, if you do have the lanyard switch at the helm, the clip must be in position. +Check the continuity of this kill switch! By-pass it temporarily if need be. +Your VOM will be your friend! + +And also (as mentioned) check the continuity of any Ballast Resistor that may in the ignition circuit. + + + +." +"Has someone ever done a conversion from long to short shaft on a Yamaha outboard? +I have done it on a 9.9hp Evinrude 1979 with no problem, was wondering if it could be done as easier on a yamaha. +Any input, experience sharing etc, appreciated!","If there is a 5"" extension it could be easy.------Offshore motors are built a little different .-----I think this will be an expensive exercise, sorry.","If there is a 5"" extension it could be easy.------Offshore motors are built a little different .-----I think this will be an expensive exercise, sorry.",Thanks for the help +"Has someone ever done a conversion from long to short shaft on a Yamaha outboard? +I have done it on a 9.9hp Evinrude 1979 with no problem, was wondering if it could be done as easier on a yamaha. +Any input, experience sharing etc, appreciated!","That's what I was afraid of, thanks racer.","That's what I was afraid of, thanks racer.","Rwbutler said: + + + + The hi rpm is what makes it hard to shift onto neutral. + +Click to expand... + +When the motor is running yes. Which is why Yamaha suggests letting the motor reach in gear idle speed before making the shift. Which is why a shift cut switch is used in some models to help facilitate the shift. + +With the motor not running it is the clutch dogs not lining up that can prevent a shift from happening." +"Has someone ever done a conversion from long to short shaft on a Yamaha outboard? +I have done it on a 9.9hp Evinrude 1979 with no problem, was wondering if it could be done as easier on a yamaha. +Any input, experience sharing etc, appreciated!","I'd seen conversion yamaha f115 20"" to 25"". + +drive shaft, gear selector , and water passage is exchanged to 25"" parts. (and cover extension) + +working is good.","I'd seen conversion yamaha f115 20"" to 25"". + +drive shaft, gear selector , and water passage is exchanged to 25"" parts. (and cover extension) + +working is good.","Yamaha design = Acceptable +Yamaha construction = Superb +Yamaha data = Crap" +"hi. + +i'm in korea. + +i use yamaha 2st 90hp (90aeto). + +there's something problem about power trim tilt. + +the symptom is that when i control power trim(by click power trim up/down trim switch), both two trim cylinder is work well, but + +center cylinder(service manual calls 'tilt cylinder)is not working. + +so I've exchanged trim motor. but the sympom is keep going... + +I wonder...what is reason... T.T + +There's enough fulid in power trim T>T + +ps. the blue color box is center cylinder(not working...)",Have you tried air-bleeding the hydraulic system? What happens with the trim cylinder when you raise the engine with the manual tilt screw? Does the trim cylinder extend and lift engine?,Have you tried air-bleeding the hydraulic system? What happens with the trim cylinder when you raise the engine with the manual tilt screw? Does the trim cylinder extend and lift engine?,After market was doing the same thing with the factory lower unit +"hi. + +i'm in korea. + +i use yamaha 2st 90hp (90aeto). + +there's something problem about power trim tilt. + +the symptom is that when i control power trim(by click power trim up/down trim switch), both two trim cylinder is work well, but + +center cylinder(service manual calls 'tilt cylinder)is not working. + +so I've exchanged trim motor. but the sympom is keep going... + +I wonder...what is reason... T.T + +There's enough fulid in power trim T>T + +ps. the blue color box is center cylinder(not working...)","yeah.^^ + +Thanks for your reply. + +I will do that (what you say) + +Have a good day!","yeah.^^ + +Thanks for your reply. + +I will do that (what you say) + +Have a good day!","Thanks Gary. I went ahead and bought a Costco group 24 marine deep cycle. $68 out the door. I know Costco generally sells quality stuff and they back their products well so all in all, it was hopefully a wise purchase." +"Got a question for you guys - my brother is running (2) 2007 Yammi 250's with 300 hours and has been having the same issue for 2 years; either engine will suddenly die under way. The offending engine's priming ball will be totally sucked in. Not sure if it’s related but sometimes it happens after he refuels - can be either engine. Happens randomly. + +Remedies tried +- New fuel lines from tank senders thru to engines including fuel priming balls +- All new fuel filters within each engine as well as water / fuel separator. +- Fuel tank polishing 2x ( after the first cleaning, an engine stalled and the guy came back did it again ) +- Perko fuel filler with an integral breather vent in cap. This all seems to function - We checked the breather cap’s ability to breathe when closed - it does. + +After 15 hours of use, it just happened again.. + +Engines are professionally maintained - the Yamaha guy thinks it's something in tank - he's at a loss... + +Vapor Lock Theory +The fuel filler and the vent line are both located at the very back of the fuel tank which seems like a bad idea. I can see how with a 3/4 to full tank that the vent and fuel fill lines would be submerged under fuel while under way ( the gas would all be aft ). This could create a vapor lock as the fuel would be obstructing the ability of the vent to breathe. And, its possible that the engines fuel pump would suck the primer ball in, starving for fuel. + +However, you would think that once the boat was stopped - the fuel level would normalize. And, when the fuel cap, which also houses the vent line breather were opened, the primer ball would fill back up - this is not the case. The primer ball stays sucked in. The only thing that remedy's this has been to wait and sometimes, infrequently if you turn off and re-start the other motor - the ball will normalize. + +Fuel Starvation Theory +- something randomly clogging the pickups at different times even though the fuel tank has been polished twice +Water Fuel Separators filter size too small . Possibly switch the 10 micron water / fuel separator to a 20 micron one + +Any ideas ?","ideally your fuel filter should sit between the bulb and the motor. The tanks need to have an independent breather, it sounds like it doesn't?","ideally your fuel filter should sit between the bulb and the motor. The tanks need to have an independent breather, it sounds like it doesn't?","Ayuh,....... They sure do help with boat handling, considerin' they are pretty much automatic operation,...... + +I prefer my powered Bennett's, as I use 'em, in nontraditional ways for fishin', 'n what not,..... + +A couple decades ago, I had a couple hour phone conversation with John, the owner/ inventor of Smart Tabs,..... + +He sent me a standard set shortly after, 'n we put 'em on a Hi-Liner 222,.... +They helped with plannin', 'n all that, no complaints at all,...... +Ya still get the trim tab feelin' from the hull, like it's 2' longer,..... + +Within a few months, Smart Tabs was offerin' a ""Fisherman's"" model, which mimics the use pattern I explained to John,....." +"Got a question for you guys - my brother is running (2) 2007 Yammi 250's with 300 hours and has been having the same issue for 2 years; either engine will suddenly die under way. The offending engine's priming ball will be totally sucked in. Not sure if it’s related but sometimes it happens after he refuels - can be either engine. Happens randomly. + +Remedies tried +- New fuel lines from tank senders thru to engines including fuel priming balls +- All new fuel filters within each engine as well as water / fuel separator. +- Fuel tank polishing 2x ( after the first cleaning, an engine stalled and the guy came back did it again ) +- Perko fuel filler with an integral breather vent in cap. This all seems to function - We checked the breather cap’s ability to breathe when closed - it does. + +After 15 hours of use, it just happened again.. + +Engines are professionally maintained - the Yamaha guy thinks it's something in tank - he's at a loss... + +Vapor Lock Theory +The fuel filler and the vent line are both located at the very back of the fuel tank which seems like a bad idea. I can see how with a 3/4 to full tank that the vent and fuel fill lines would be submerged under fuel while under way ( the gas would all be aft ). This could create a vapor lock as the fuel would be obstructing the ability of the vent to breathe. And, its possible that the engines fuel pump would suck the primer ball in, starving for fuel. + +However, you would think that once the boat was stopped - the fuel level would normalize. And, when the fuel cap, which also houses the vent line breather were opened, the primer ball would fill back up - this is not the case. The primer ball stays sucked in. The only thing that remedy's this has been to wait and sometimes, infrequently if you turn off and re-start the other motor - the ball will normalize. + +Fuel Starvation Theory +- something randomly clogging the pickups at different times even though the fuel tank has been polished twice +Water Fuel Separators filter size too small . Possibly switch the 10 micron water / fuel separator to a 20 micron one + +Any ideas ?","I see you replaced all fuel lines including the pick lines that run down into the tank. There isn't by any chance small fuel filters on the end of pick-up lines that sit in the bottom of the fuel tanks is there? Some manufacturers put those little filters on the ends of those pick-up lines and if someone were to replace the fuel lines they may stick those stupid little filters on them again. If they are there, pull them off or cut them out. I had a friend who chased a fuel starvation ghost for months that would come and go. It turned out to be those stupid little filters on the pick-up lines (that NEVER, ever should have been put there as there is no need for them). While underway they would gradually clog with particulate in the tank until they caused a fuel-starved shut-down. Then, once shut down with gas sloshing around for a while some of the the crap that clogged the filter would fall off and all would run well again for a while until it found its way back and created the same issue over and and over. Check for those stupid filters and get rid of them if they are there... There are plenty more, larger filters throughout the system that will deal with anything in the tank.","I see you replaced all fuel lines including the pick lines that run down into the tank. There isn't by any chance small fuel filters on the end of pick-up lines that sit in the bottom of the fuel tanks is there? Some manufacturers put those little filters on the ends of those pick-up lines and if someone were to replace the fuel lines they may stick those stupid little filters on them again. If they are there, pull them off or cut them out. I had a friend who chased a fuel starvation ghost for months that would come and go. It turned out to be those stupid little filters on the pick-up lines (that NEVER, ever should have been put there as there is no need for them). While underway they would gradually clog with particulate in the tank until they caused a fuel-starved shut-down. Then, once shut down with gas sloshing around for a while some of the the crap that clogged the filter would fall off and all would run well again for a while until it found its way back and created the same issue over and and over. Check for those stupid filters and get rid of them if they are there... There are plenty more, larger filters throughout the system that will deal with anything in the tank.","pradeepkumar is a spammer,......" +"Got a question for you guys - my brother is running (2) 2007 Yammi 250's with 300 hours and has been having the same issue for 2 years; either engine will suddenly die under way. The offending engine's priming ball will be totally sucked in. Not sure if it’s related but sometimes it happens after he refuels - can be either engine. Happens randomly. + +Remedies tried +- New fuel lines from tank senders thru to engines including fuel priming balls +- All new fuel filters within each engine as well as water / fuel separator. +- Fuel tank polishing 2x ( after the first cleaning, an engine stalled and the guy came back did it again ) +- Perko fuel filler with an integral breather vent in cap. This all seems to function - We checked the breather cap’s ability to breathe when closed - it does. + +After 15 hours of use, it just happened again.. + +Engines are professionally maintained - the Yamaha guy thinks it's something in tank - he's at a loss... + +Vapor Lock Theory +The fuel filler and the vent line are both located at the very back of the fuel tank which seems like a bad idea. I can see how with a 3/4 to full tank that the vent and fuel fill lines would be submerged under fuel while under way ( the gas would all be aft ). This could create a vapor lock as the fuel would be obstructing the ability of the vent to breathe. And, its possible that the engines fuel pump would suck the primer ball in, starving for fuel. + +However, you would think that once the boat was stopped - the fuel level would normalize. And, when the fuel cap, which also houses the vent line breather were opened, the primer ball would fill back up - this is not the case. The primer ball stays sucked in. The only thing that remedy's this has been to wait and sometimes, infrequently if you turn off and re-start the other motor - the ball will normalize. + +Fuel Starvation Theory +- something randomly clogging the pickups at different times even though the fuel tank has been polished twice +Water Fuel Separators filter size too small . Possibly switch the 10 micron water / fuel separator to a 20 micron one + +Any ideas ?","Thx for your input -- + +DeeJay -- The OEM set up is fuel tank... filters... fuel primer balls... engine... The tank has an independent vent linen from the tank that vents through a Perko, dual purpose vented gas cap. The fuel vent seems to function properly when the boat is not moving ( not sure who moving ) + +Deep -- Could not change the pick up lines - they're welded in place. However, a root rooter type device was used to clean each pick up and was driven through the bottom of the pick up ( so, no screen or filter ).","Thx for your input -- + +DeeJay -- The OEM set up is fuel tank... filters... fuel primer balls... engine... The tank has an independent vent linen from the tank that vents through a Perko, dual purpose vented gas cap. The fuel vent seems to function properly when the boat is not moving ( not sure who moving ) + +Deep -- Could not change the pick up lines - they're welded in place. However, a root rooter type device was used to clean each pick up and was driven through the bottom of the pick up ( so, no screen or filter ).","When you say you adjusted the idle screw, are you referring to the idle speed or the idle mixture? The pop may be it running a bit lean. Have you taken a look at the spark plugs? + +Stuart" +"Got a question for you guys - my brother is running (2) 2007 Yammi 250's with 300 hours and has been having the same issue for 2 years; either engine will suddenly die under way. The offending engine's priming ball will be totally sucked in. Not sure if it’s related but sometimes it happens after he refuels - can be either engine. Happens randomly. + +Remedies tried +- New fuel lines from tank senders thru to engines including fuel priming balls +- All new fuel filters within each engine as well as water / fuel separator. +- Fuel tank polishing 2x ( after the first cleaning, an engine stalled and the guy came back did it again ) +- Perko fuel filler with an integral breather vent in cap. This all seems to function - We checked the breather cap’s ability to breathe when closed - it does. + +After 15 hours of use, it just happened again.. + +Engines are professionally maintained - the Yamaha guy thinks it's something in tank - he's at a loss... + +Vapor Lock Theory +The fuel filler and the vent line are both located at the very back of the fuel tank which seems like a bad idea. I can see how with a 3/4 to full tank that the vent and fuel fill lines would be submerged under fuel while under way ( the gas would all be aft ). This could create a vapor lock as the fuel would be obstructing the ability of the vent to breathe. And, its possible that the engines fuel pump would suck the primer ball in, starving for fuel. + +However, you would think that once the boat was stopped - the fuel level would normalize. And, when the fuel cap, which also houses the vent line breather were opened, the primer ball would fill back up - this is not the case. The primer ball stays sucked in. The only thing that remedy's this has been to wait and sometimes, infrequently if you turn off and re-start the other motor - the ball will normalize. + +Fuel Starvation Theory +- something randomly clogging the pickups at different times even though the fuel tank has been polished twice +Water Fuel Separators filter size too small . Possibly switch the 10 micron water / fuel separator to a 20 micron one + +Any ideas ?","Hmmmm. I don't think your theory that a vent in the back of the tank could be submerged by fuel preventing it to vent is the issue. Having learned the hard way long ago with a 6 gallon portable tank that I filled and failed to open the vent on prior to running I created a vapor lock and the suction/vacuum that the engine created in the tank was unbelievable before it shut down.. When I discovered the issue and opened the vent I could hear the air rush in and the bottom of the metal tank almost popped like a can... If there's a vent regardless of being under fuel the suction created by the engine and fuel pump will easily sick air down through a vent line submerged in fuel and bubble up through the fuel. + +That being said.. now I wonder if it the bulb could collapse and somehow seal off flow before there is enough vacuum in the tank to pull air down through the vent line submerged in fuel? Something is going on that is restricting fuel flow from time to time in front of those bulbs that keep being sucked in. + +You have two fuel lines, two bulbs, two filters heading to two separate pick-up lines in the same main fuel tank right? If that's the case a vapor lock in the tank would effect both lines and fuel bulbs at the same time. If not, I kind of agree with the pro... there is something in the tank that is finding its way to one of those two pick up lines from time to time and clogging it but not completely clogging it as with time fuel seeps around it, gradually fills the void as the fuel bulb want to expand and once the vacuum is gone whatever got stuck there falls away in the sloshing fuel (until it happens again). I problem with the vent built into the common fuel fill cap would create the same issue with both engines and fuel bulbs at the same time. + +It's not an optimal solution but I am wondering if you put some kind of a quick-disconnect or manual vent in each line between the fuel /wate filters and the tank when the issue presents again you could quickly eliminate the vacuum that developed releasing what ""may"" be sucked on the end of that pick-up line, (maybe back-blow through it) re-connect and go on your way. There's no way open that tank and really see what could be inside. Ahh the joys of boating.","Hmmmm. I don't think your theory that a vent in the back of the tank could be submerged by fuel preventing it to vent is the issue. Having learned the hard way long ago with a 6 gallon portable tank that I filled and failed to open the vent on prior to running I created a vapor lock and the suction/vacuum that the engine created in the tank was unbelievable before it shut down.. When I discovered the issue and opened the vent I could hear the air rush in and the bottom of the metal tank almost popped like a can... If there's a vent regardless of being under fuel the suction created by the engine and fuel pump will easily sick air down through a vent line submerged in fuel and bubble up through the fuel. + +That being said.. now I wonder if it the bulb could collapse and somehow seal off flow before there is enough vacuum in the tank to pull air down through the vent line submerged in fuel? Something is going on that is restricting fuel flow from time to time in front of those bulbs that keep being sucked in. + +You have two fuel lines, two bulbs, two filters heading to two separate pick-up lines in the same main fuel tank right? If that's the case a vapor lock in the tank would effect both lines and fuel bulbs at the same time. If not, I kind of agree with the pro... there is something in the tank that is finding its way to one of those two pick up lines from time to time and clogging it but not completely clogging it as with time fuel seeps around it, gradually fills the void as the fuel bulb want to expand and once the vacuum is gone whatever got stuck there falls away in the sloshing fuel (until it happens again). I problem with the vent built into the common fuel fill cap would create the same issue with both engines and fuel bulbs at the same time. + +It's not an optimal solution but I am wondering if you put some kind of a quick-disconnect or manual vent in each line between the fuel /wate filters and the tank when the issue presents again you could quickly eliminate the vacuum that developed releasing what ""may"" be sucked on the end of that pick-up line, (maybe back-blow through it) re-connect and go on your way. There's no way open that tank and really see what could be inside. Ahh the joys of boating.","2x on what Bondo suggests...on the east coast, LOTS of people register their trailers in Maine...may be worth some research on that topic..." +"Got a question for you guys - my brother is running (2) 2007 Yammi 250's with 300 hours and has been having the same issue for 2 years; either engine will suddenly die under way. The offending engine's priming ball will be totally sucked in. Not sure if it’s related but sometimes it happens after he refuels - can be either engine. Happens randomly. + +Remedies tried +- New fuel lines from tank senders thru to engines including fuel priming balls +- All new fuel filters within each engine as well as water / fuel separator. +- Fuel tank polishing 2x ( after the first cleaning, an engine stalled and the guy came back did it again ) +- Perko fuel filler with an integral breather vent in cap. This all seems to function - We checked the breather cap’s ability to breathe when closed - it does. + +After 15 hours of use, it just happened again.. + +Engines are professionally maintained - the Yamaha guy thinks it's something in tank - he's at a loss... + +Vapor Lock Theory +The fuel filler and the vent line are both located at the very back of the fuel tank which seems like a bad idea. I can see how with a 3/4 to full tank that the vent and fuel fill lines would be submerged under fuel while under way ( the gas would all be aft ). This could create a vapor lock as the fuel would be obstructing the ability of the vent to breathe. And, its possible that the engines fuel pump would suck the primer ball in, starving for fuel. + +However, you would think that once the boat was stopped - the fuel level would normalize. And, when the fuel cap, which also houses the vent line breather were opened, the primer ball would fill back up - this is not the case. The primer ball stays sucked in. The only thing that remedy's this has been to wait and sometimes, infrequently if you turn off and re-start the other motor - the ball will normalize. + +Fuel Starvation Theory +- something randomly clogging the pickups at different times even though the fuel tank has been polished twice +Water Fuel Separators filter size too small . Possibly switch the 10 micron water / fuel separator to a 20 micron one + +Any ideas ?","Im glad it's my brother's boat �� +But, I'm the more mechanical of the two of us... I'm challenged to find the problem. I agree it's got to be a random thing in the tank. Nothing else makes sense. The tank baffles make it impossible to scope the tank and after 2 tank polishes, you'd think it would be clean... + +What other options are there for cleaning the tank ? It's under the deck with only access plates so removing the tank is not an option.","Im glad it's my brother's boat �� +But, I'm the more mechanical of the two of us... I'm challenged to find the problem. I agree it's got to be a random thing in the tank. Nothing else makes sense. The tank baffles make it impossible to scope the tank and after 2 tank polishes, you'd think it would be clean... + +What other options are there for cleaning the tank ? It's under the deck with only access plates so removing the tank is not an option.",The first is the rear of the trailer. Second is the bow roller with all the weight on it. +"Got a question for you guys - my brother is running (2) 2007 Yammi 250's with 300 hours and has been having the same issue for 2 years; either engine will suddenly die under way. The offending engine's priming ball will be totally sucked in. Not sure if it’s related but sometimes it happens after he refuels - can be either engine. Happens randomly. + +Remedies tried +- New fuel lines from tank senders thru to engines including fuel priming balls +- All new fuel filters within each engine as well as water / fuel separator. +- Fuel tank polishing 2x ( after the first cleaning, an engine stalled and the guy came back did it again ) +- Perko fuel filler with an integral breather vent in cap. This all seems to function - We checked the breather cap’s ability to breathe when closed - it does. + +After 15 hours of use, it just happened again.. + +Engines are professionally maintained - the Yamaha guy thinks it's something in tank - he's at a loss... + +Vapor Lock Theory +The fuel filler and the vent line are both located at the very back of the fuel tank which seems like a bad idea. I can see how with a 3/4 to full tank that the vent and fuel fill lines would be submerged under fuel while under way ( the gas would all be aft ). This could create a vapor lock as the fuel would be obstructing the ability of the vent to breathe. And, its possible that the engines fuel pump would suck the primer ball in, starving for fuel. + +However, you would think that once the boat was stopped - the fuel level would normalize. And, when the fuel cap, which also houses the vent line breather were opened, the primer ball would fill back up - this is not the case. The primer ball stays sucked in. The only thing that remedy's this has been to wait and sometimes, infrequently if you turn off and re-start the other motor - the ball will normalize. + +Fuel Starvation Theory +- something randomly clogging the pickups at different times even though the fuel tank has been polished twice +Water Fuel Separators filter size too small . Possibly switch the 10 micron water / fuel separator to a 20 micron one + +Any ideas ?",on most boats the vent is at the bow end of the boat for this very reason. You may want to check the vent to make sure it has not formed rust on the screen and effectively closed it up. The cap likely helped the situation but the tank is set up to use the vent in it. Did you try to run the engine on a portable tanks with fresh gas when this happens and if so does it run or is the problem the same? you also should check the fuel injector pump filters external and internal. This should be done after every issue with possible gas contamination.,on most boats the vent is at the bow end of the boat for this very reason. You may want to check the vent to make sure it has not formed rust on the screen and effectively closed it up. The cap likely helped the situation but the tank is set up to use the vent in it. Did you try to run the engine on a portable tanks with fresh gas when this happens and if so does it run or is the problem the same? you also should check the fuel injector pump filters external and internal. This should be done after every issue with possible gas contamination.,While turning the wheel tap the outer edge with a hammer. +i recently bought a boat with a 2008 yamaha 200 fourstroke. it was always a little stiff to change in and out of gear when in the water but nothing to bad to deal with. I recently changed the water pump and thermostats then drained the lower unit and refilled it. after doing this i ran it on the hose for about 20 minutes. It shifted amazing clicked rite in forward and reverse it was acting like a new boat. went to the dock and was pulling it off the trailer it clunked into reverse then wouldnt go back in neutral i almost hit another boat i slammed it forward and it thunked into gear and it was extremely stiff and almost impossible to get bback in neutral. if i turn it off and put it in neutral when i started it back up it would stay in neutral untill i moved it again. does anyone have any idea what could be the problem i thought the cable at first but with how well it ran on the hose im lost. thanks in advance,anyone have any ideas on soemthing i could try to narrow this down.,anyone have any ideas on soemthing i could try to narrow this down.,The motor has ignition issues.----Check spark first. +i recently bought a boat with a 2008 yamaha 200 fourstroke. it was always a little stiff to change in and out of gear when in the water but nothing to bad to deal with. I recently changed the water pump and thermostats then drained the lower unit and refilled it. after doing this i ran it on the hose for about 20 minutes. It shifted amazing clicked rite in forward and reverse it was acting like a new boat. went to the dock and was pulling it off the trailer it clunked into reverse then wouldnt go back in neutral i almost hit another boat i slammed it forward and it thunked into gear and it was extremely stiff and almost impossible to get bback in neutral. if i turn it off and put it in neutral when i started it back up it would stay in neutral untill i moved it again. does anyone have any idea what could be the problem i thought the cable at first but with how well it ran on the hose im lost. thanks in advance,I am having the same problem with my boat. Did you get this figured out? I am looking into replacing the shifting cable.,I am having the same problem with my boat. Did you get this figured out? I am looking into replacing the shifting cable.,Do you plan to do your own work on this specialized motor ?----Is there a dealer ( Needhams ? ) that is willing to work on this machine ? +i recently bought a boat with a 2008 yamaha 200 fourstroke. it was always a little stiff to change in and out of gear when in the water but nothing to bad to deal with. I recently changed the water pump and thermostats then drained the lower unit and refilled it. after doing this i ran it on the hose for about 20 minutes. It shifted amazing clicked rite in forward and reverse it was acting like a new boat. went to the dock and was pulling it off the trailer it clunked into reverse then wouldnt go back in neutral i almost hit another boat i slammed it forward and it thunked into gear and it was extremely stiff and almost impossible to get bback in neutral. if i turn it off and put it in neutral when i started it back up it would stay in neutral untill i moved it again. does anyone have any idea what could be the problem i thought the cable at first but with how well it ran on the hose im lost. thanks in advance,Our 225 was like that and we finally figured out that it was the shift rod that goes into the lower unit had broken off down in the lower unit.,Our 225 was like that and we finally figured out that it was the shift rod that goes into the lower unit had broken off down in the lower unit.,"So, from the few comments, and from further google searches including the Yamaha Web site, it seems that any quality 4-stroke/water cooled OB oil will be acceptable:"" Yamaha recommends Yamalube, of course, but if you simply cannot find it, choose oil that specifically displays the FC-W® rating logo."" + +Sta-Bil fuel additive should be as good as Yamaha's conditioner/stabilizer (and less expensive and easier to find in the store). + +And Yamaha's Ring Free Fuel Additive is okay for 4-stroke engines but is primarily used for 2-stroke engines which have more carbon build-up. So, use it if I like, use it occasionally, or don't really need to use it - maybe option 2 is best 'use it occasionally'. + +The suggestion to install a fuel/water separator is a good idea if the engine does not already have one (especially with E10 fuel) <>. Yamaha says all newer engines are made to run on E10 but *NOT* anything higher!!" +i recently bought a boat with a 2008 yamaha 200 fourstroke. it was always a little stiff to change in and out of gear when in the water but nothing to bad to deal with. I recently changed the water pump and thermostats then drained the lower unit and refilled it. after doing this i ran it on the hose for about 20 minutes. It shifted amazing clicked rite in forward and reverse it was acting like a new boat. went to the dock and was pulling it off the trailer it clunked into reverse then wouldnt go back in neutral i almost hit another boat i slammed it forward and it thunked into gear and it was extremely stiff and almost impossible to get bback in neutral. if i turn it off and put it in neutral when i started it back up it would stay in neutral untill i moved it again. does anyone have any idea what could be the problem i thought the cable at first but with how well it ran on the hose im lost. thanks in advance,on the shift rod just under the cap on the lower unit under he oil seal where the shift rod sits going into the lower unit is a spring hat sometimes will fail a twist binding the rod easy to check on it when you drop the lower unit.,on the shift rod just under the cap on the lower unit under he oil seal where the shift rod sits going into the lower unit is a spring hat sometimes will fail a twist binding the rod easy to check on it when you drop the lower unit.,"Ayuh,.... I wouldn't,.... The chemicals used to treat the plywood, causes massive corrosion to the hull's aluminum,..... +'n it Will leech out, 'n down through the screw/ rivet holes,...." +"Hey guys, + +I traded in a Yamaha F115 model year 2003. However when I examined the engine I noticed a ticking sound at idle speed. When I rev upp the engine to approx. 2000 rpm, the sound dissapear. I took the head off and noticed that the arm for the fuel pump is able to move about 1 mm up and down as shown in the video below, which may cause the ticking sound. What do you think? Should it be this much play? How do you suggest to solve this? + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziJtwhKXn7s","Hard to see in the video...there should be a washer in between the spring pin and bottom of lever. And it looks as though there is not...even looks like the gap by which you're able to move lever up and down would be the same thickness of the washer. + +I've attached a parts blow out for you engine. #33 circled in red are the washers. I'd double check all parts you see in the blow out are where they should be. Possible to upload video with engine running?","Hard to see in the video...there should be a washer in between the spring pin and bottom of lever. And it looks as though there is not...even looks like the gap by which you're able to move lever up and down would be the same thickness of the washer. + +I've attached a parts blow out for you engine. #33 circled in red are the washers. I'd double check all parts you see in the blow out are where they should be. Possible to upload video with engine running?","Pat W said: + + + + I have replaced the external oil pump, the water pump and both thermostats. I have checked the motor oil pu mp output and is pumping, but the motor will only run a short time - for goes back in safe mode (2000 RPM with horn) +I don't know what to do. +Thanks for your reply. + +Click to expand... + + +I can appreciate your frustration. But respectfully, you don't go pulling out essential parts because you can't figure out the problem. So if you want some help with troubleshooting you'll have to start from the beginning when the problem occurred and what you've done in attempts to fix. + +The 2 alarm systems tied into your tachometer is the low oil alarm and high temp alarm. Each has a symbol on the tach and a line blinks over the symbol that corresponds to the system that activated the alarm. In response to this alarm the engine reduces rpms to 2000 (limp mode). + +So my first question would be which alarm are you getting, low oil or high temp?" +"Hey guys, + +I traded in a Yamaha F115 model year 2003. However when I examined the engine I noticed a ticking sound at idle speed. When I rev upp the engine to approx. 2000 rpm, the sound dissapear. I took the head off and noticed that the arm for the fuel pump is able to move about 1 mm up and down as shown in the video below, which may cause the ticking sound. What do you think? Should it be this much play? How do you suggest to solve this? + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziJtwhKXn7s",Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. There are two washers. That's why I don't understand why it is so much play for the lever!,Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. There are two washers. That's why I don't understand why it is so much play for the lever!,"Ayuh,.... The vent line starts at the tank, usually near the fill,.... + +You may, or may not have a deck hatch there,.... + +The other end is probably a chrome thru-hull fittin', again usually near the fill,.... + +Sometimes accessible from up-under a gunnel,.... + +It's usually a 5/8"" rubber hose, hose clamped at each end,... +It should loop Up at the thru-hull fittin', then down to the tank,...." +"Hey guys, + +I traded in a Yamaha F115 model year 2003. However when I examined the engine I noticed a ticking sound at idle speed. When I rev upp the engine to approx. 2000 rpm, the sound dissapear. I took the head off and noticed that the arm for the fuel pump is able to move about 1 mm up and down as shown in the video below, which may cause the ticking sound. What do you think? Should it be this much play? How do you suggest to solve this? + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziJtwhKXn7s","Sarrre said: + + + + Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. There are two washers. That's why I don't understand why it is so much play for the lever! + +Click to expand... + + +Admittedly I'm not familiar with how that lever functions. But if all parts are where they should be then perhaps the lever is supposed to have a lil play. What makes you sure the clicking of the lever moving up and down is the clicking you hear when engine is running?","Sarrre said: + + + + Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. There are two washers. That's why I don't understand why it is so much play for the lever! + +Click to expand... + + +Admittedly I'm not familiar with how that lever functions. But if all parts are where they should be then perhaps the lever is supposed to have a lil play. What makes you sure the clicking of the lever moving up and down is the clicking you hear when engine is running?","Did this problem show up suddenly ?----They all run fantastic on a hose.----Even in gear it is still neutral as the prop does not have to work waving at the air.----Do a compression test, post your numbers.----Test for spark that jumps a gap of 3/8"" ( 1 cm ) or more on al leads.-----Inspect flywheel key while you are at it." +"Hey guys, + +I traded in a Yamaha F115 model year 2003. However when I examined the engine I noticed a ticking sound at idle speed. When I rev upp the engine to approx. 2000 rpm, the sound dissapear. I took the head off and noticed that the arm for the fuel pump is able to move about 1 mm up and down as shown in the video below, which may cause the ticking sound. What do you think? Should it be this much play? How do you suggest to solve this? + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziJtwhKXn7s","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Admittedly I'm not familiar with how that lever functions. But if all parts are where they should be then perhaps the lever is supposed to have a lil play. What makes you sure the clicking of the lever moving up and down is the clicking you hear when engine is running? + +Click to expand... + + +I'm not 100% sure, but the sound appearing when I manually jiggle the lever upp and down, are very similar to the sound when engine is running. Do you have another idea what could cause a ticking sound?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Admittedly I'm not familiar with how that lever functions. But if all parts are where they should be then perhaps the lever is supposed to have a lil play. What makes you sure the clicking of the lever moving up and down is the clicking you hear when engine is running? + +Click to expand... + + +I'm not 100% sure, but the sound appearing when I manually jiggle the lever upp and down, are very similar to the sound when engine is running. Do you have another idea what could cause a ticking sound?","Update: I have now succeeded in getting the cover on, by: +1. Keep the main lever vertical +2. Keep the Idle speed lever flat +3. The pin attached to the Idle drum dropped into the ""curved"" slot on the lower mechanism. + +I was really aiming for the straight slot, because that was the slot used by a Youtube video I saw of a mechanic installing a 703, but it just seems very difficult to get my pin to the curved slot. + +Not yet tested the operation - will get to that soon and post outcome. + +Still keen to understand what the difference between using the curved and straight slots on the mechanism would be." +"Hey guys, + +I traded in a Yamaha F115 model year 2003. However when I examined the engine I noticed a ticking sound at idle speed. When I rev upp the engine to approx. 2000 rpm, the sound dissapear. I took the head off and noticed that the arm for the fuel pump is able to move about 1 mm up and down as shown in the video below, which may cause the ticking sound. What do you think? Should it be this much play? How do you suggest to solve this? + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziJtwhKXn7s","Take a video and post here of the engine running with top cowling off. The audio is what's most important. And if possible, have a friend increase/decrease throttle while in neutral, as well as shifting into forward and reverse gear.","Take a video and post here of the engine running with top cowling off. The audio is what's most important. And if possible, have a friend increase/decrease throttle while in neutral, as well as shifting into forward and reverse gear.","Not being a wise ass but, where did you get the comp gauge?" +"Hi..I just bought a used 4hp 2 stroke 1992 yamaha. I'm having some issues, I think, with the throttle. It seems to me the tiller throttle isn't affecting the operation of the motor, but the choke does? I'm totally new to this engine, and can't seem to find an owner's manual on it without paying $30 dollars I don't have..so I'm kinda stuck trying to figure out how to even use this thing, so I could just be doing it completely wrong. + +I was under the impression that I close the choke to start it, then open it after it starts..but it won't start closed, only open. Here's a video to show me starting it / how it's working. +https://youtu.be/rePY7iXUq0I + +This video shows the cover off, and appears that the throttle cable is hooked up..just don't know why it's operating the way it is. Is this normal? Am I forgetting to use one of the other 10 levers on this thing that I can't actually identify? haha..plz help. + +https://youtu.be/fbHyCgZreKc + +it's worth noting that this is the first start of it, and I haven't used it on a boat yet..I had planned to try it tomorrow on a lake anyway, just to see how it goes. Could the low water in the bucket affect the throttle ability? I really can't find any info on operation of this motor for some reason..but I know I really want to take my 12 ft aluminum boat fishing tomorrow + +Cheers","Furthermore, can any one tell me.. +Should #1 freely move, or does it have to be running to move it? Assuming this is forward / reverse? Cuz mine is seemingly stuck. + +What is #2, #3 for?","Furthermore, can any one tell me.. +Should #1 freely move, or does it have to be running to move it? Assuming this is forward / reverse? Cuz mine is seemingly stuck. + +What is #2, #3 for?","Got a way to get em really hot ? + +I found an acetylene torch works a treat, just get em nice and hot - they should free up with a little love.. + +( Dont go nuts and try and burn em off, but you might need a little more heat than standard propane/LPG )" +"Hi..I just bought a used 4hp 2 stroke 1992 yamaha. I'm having some issues, I think, with the throttle. It seems to me the tiller throttle isn't affecting the operation of the motor, but the choke does? I'm totally new to this engine, and can't seem to find an owner's manual on it without paying $30 dollars I don't have..so I'm kinda stuck trying to figure out how to even use this thing, so I could just be doing it completely wrong. + +I was under the impression that I close the choke to start it, then open it after it starts..but it won't start closed, only open. Here's a video to show me starting it / how it's working. +https://youtu.be/rePY7iXUq0I + +This video shows the cover off, and appears that the throttle cable is hooked up..just don't know why it's operating the way it is. Is this normal? Am I forgetting to use one of the other 10 levers on this thing that I can't actually identify? haha..plz help. + +https://youtu.be/fbHyCgZreKc + +it's worth noting that this is the first start of it, and I haven't used it on a boat yet..I had planned to try it tomorrow on a lake anyway, just to see how it goes. Could the low water in the bucket affect the throttle ability? I really can't find any info on operation of this motor for some reason..but I know I really want to take my 12 ft aluminum boat fishing tomorrow + +Cheers","sogboat said: + + + + + + + +Furthermore, can any one tell me.. +Should #1 freely move, or does it have to be running to move it? Assuming this is forward / reverse? Cuz mine is seemingly stuck. + +What is #2, #3 for? + +Click to expand... + + +You're in luck. A free digital download of your engines service manual is here: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...amaha-shop-manuals/608-1992-yamaha-4n-5n/file + +#1 is the gear shifter. It should move into forward and reverse freely, though shifting into either gear should only be done when crankshaft is spinning (engine running). In reference to the 2nd video...that is the starter neutral in gear protection. Its purpose is to prevent the engine from starting if the gear shifter is not in neutral. + +Not sure what #2 is. #3 looks to be the manual trim/tilt lever. + +In reference to your 1st video. I find it best to use the word ""engaged"" when referring to the choke, as to not get confused with the carb butterfly as open or closed. So if the choke is engaged, the butterfly is closed, thereby decreasing the amount of air into the intake, thus causing a rich mix for cold starting. The choke should be engaged for first start of the day. After the engine is warm you should no longer need the choke engaged. From the video, it looks as though the tiller throttle is not functioning. When the engine is running in neutral as it is in the video, when you turn the throttle grip the rpms should increase or decrease. + +With the engine off, neutral gear, and cowling off, twist the tiller grip to max throttle then back to no throttle. Watch the throttle cable where it attaches to the throttle lever near or on the carb. As you twist the throttle grip, the cable should be also pulling the throttle lever open and releasing to close. If not, then you've got an issue with the throttle cable. + +RE: Smoking +Looks to be an excessive amount of smoke. However, it looks as though the prop boss was not completely submerged. When submerged, exhaust exiting prop boss would not be seen since it's underwater. Another note...it's an old 2 stroke. Excessive smoking is not uncommon. Just be sure you've got the proper fuelil ratio mixed per yamaha's suggested ratio. + +Now that you have a service manual, follow the instructions in the section ""periodic adjustment and maintenance"" for applying grease. You'll need a tube of marine grease, a grease gun, and a zirk fitting for the gun. Grease all points. Who knows how long its been since the engine was properly greased. It could be the reason the shifter is not moving.","sogboat said: + + + + + + + +Furthermore, can any one tell me.. +Should #1 freely move, or does it have to be running to move it? Assuming this is forward / reverse? Cuz mine is seemingly stuck. + +What is #2, #3 for? + +Click to expand... + + +You're in luck. A free digital download of your engines service manual is here: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...amaha-shop-manuals/608-1992-yamaha-4n-5n/file + +#1 is the gear shifter. It should move into forward and reverse freely, though shifting into either gear should only be done when crankshaft is spinning (engine running). In reference to the 2nd video...that is the starter neutral in gear protection. Its purpose is to prevent the engine from starting if the gear shifter is not in neutral. + +Not sure what #2 is. #3 looks to be the manual trim/tilt lever. + +In reference to your 1st video. I find it best to use the word ""engaged"" when referring to the choke, as to not get confused with the carb butterfly as open or closed. So if the choke is engaged, the butterfly is closed, thereby decreasing the amount of air into the intake, thus causing a rich mix for cold starting. The choke should be engaged for first start of the day. After the engine is warm you should no longer need the choke engaged. From the video, it looks as though the tiller throttle is not functioning. When the engine is running in neutral as it is in the video, when you turn the throttle grip the rpms should increase or decrease. + +With the engine off, neutral gear, and cowling off, twist the tiller grip to max throttle then back to no throttle. Watch the throttle cable where it attaches to the throttle lever near or on the carb. As you twist the throttle grip, the cable should be also pulling the throttle lever open and releasing to close. If not, then you've got an issue with the throttle cable. + +RE: Smoking +Looks to be an excessive amount of smoke. However, it looks as though the prop boss was not completely submerged. When submerged, exhaust exiting prop boss would not be seen since it's underwater. Another note...it's an old 2 stroke. Excessive smoking is not uncommon. Just be sure you've got the proper fuelil ratio mixed per yamaha's suggested ratio. + +Now that you have a service manual, follow the instructions in the section ""periodic adjustment and maintenance"" for applying grease. You'll need a tube of marine grease, a grease gun, and a zirk fitting for the gun. Grease all points. Who knows how long its been since the engine was properly greased. It could be the reason the shifter is not moving.","Vire 12 boat engine sports Dynastart, example: https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/MTE5NVgxNjAw/z/iDsAAOSwAy5atSMN/$/Dynastart-NEW-dynostart-bosch-fits-Vire-6-7-12-_1.jpg + +Yeah, I'm measuring resistance. My electrics knowledge are so much limited, that in my world ""if there's no resistance between two nodes, they are in same potential""... + +As I mentioned, nothing is connected." +"Hi..I just bought a used 4hp 2 stroke 1992 yamaha. I'm having some issues, I think, with the throttle. It seems to me the tiller throttle isn't affecting the operation of the motor, but the choke does? I'm totally new to this engine, and can't seem to find an owner's manual on it without paying $30 dollars I don't have..so I'm kinda stuck trying to figure out how to even use this thing, so I could just be doing it completely wrong. + +I was under the impression that I close the choke to start it, then open it after it starts..but it won't start closed, only open. Here's a video to show me starting it / how it's working. +https://youtu.be/rePY7iXUq0I + +This video shows the cover off, and appears that the throttle cable is hooked up..just don't know why it's operating the way it is. Is this normal? Am I forgetting to use one of the other 10 levers on this thing that I can't actually identify? haha..plz help. + +https://youtu.be/fbHyCgZreKc + +it's worth noting that this is the first start of it, and I haven't used it on a boat yet..I had planned to try it tomorrow on a lake anyway, just to see how it goes. Could the low water in the bucket affect the throttle ability? I really can't find any info on operation of this motor for some reason..but I know I really want to take my 12 ft aluminum boat fishing tomorrow + +Cheers","I've come to realize..it starts in neutral, then I can engage gear and it goes..but throttle issue still exists. The cable looks good..but I feel like maybe internally it's somehow stuck on full throttle..and opening the choke gives it the air to go wide open. Check out this video..any idea? +https://youtu.be/HNWsc1-bS7A","I've come to realize..it starts in neutral, then I can engage gear and it goes..but throttle issue still exists. The cable looks good..but I feel like maybe internally it's somehow stuck on full throttle..and opening the choke gives it the air to go wide open. Check out this video..any idea? +https://youtu.be/HNWsc1-bS7A","The results are ...pumped out all the old gas, gave to friends to burn in their trucks. Clean harbor wanted 700. Put in 16 ounces of Startron, and then 50 gals of premium.... Runs nice and smooth. There was never any water in gas....just old and stale..." +"Hi..I just bought a used 4hp 2 stroke 1992 yamaha. I'm having some issues, I think, with the throttle. It seems to me the tiller throttle isn't affecting the operation of the motor, but the choke does? I'm totally new to this engine, and can't seem to find an owner's manual on it without paying $30 dollars I don't have..so I'm kinda stuck trying to figure out how to even use this thing, so I could just be doing it completely wrong. + +I was under the impression that I close the choke to start it, then open it after it starts..but it won't start closed, only open. Here's a video to show me starting it / how it's working. +https://youtu.be/rePY7iXUq0I + +This video shows the cover off, and appears that the throttle cable is hooked up..just don't know why it's operating the way it is. Is this normal? Am I forgetting to use one of the other 10 levers on this thing that I can't actually identify? haha..plz help. + +https://youtu.be/fbHyCgZreKc + +it's worth noting that this is the first start of it, and I haven't used it on a boat yet..I had planned to try it tomorrow on a lake anyway, just to see how it goes. Could the low water in the bucket affect the throttle ability? I really can't find any info on operation of this motor for some reason..but I know I really want to take my 12 ft aluminum boat fishing tomorrow + +Cheers","And thanks for the manual..mines a 4mshq is that the same as a 4n/5n? I couldn't find anything anywhere..so even if not, I'm sure they're similar","And thanks for the manual..mines a 4mshq is that the same as a 4n/5n? I couldn't find anything anywhere..so even if not, I'm sure they're similar",Motors need a new water pump impeller about every 5 years.----Inspect yours now. +"Hi..I just bought a used 4hp 2 stroke 1992 yamaha. I'm having some issues, I think, with the throttle. It seems to me the tiller throttle isn't affecting the operation of the motor, but the choke does? I'm totally new to this engine, and can't seem to find an owner's manual on it without paying $30 dollars I don't have..so I'm kinda stuck trying to figure out how to even use this thing, so I could just be doing it completely wrong. + +I was under the impression that I close the choke to start it, then open it after it starts..but it won't start closed, only open. Here's a video to show me starting it / how it's working. +https://youtu.be/rePY7iXUq0I + +This video shows the cover off, and appears that the throttle cable is hooked up..just don't know why it's operating the way it is. Is this normal? Am I forgetting to use one of the other 10 levers on this thing that I can't actually identify? haha..plz help. + +https://youtu.be/fbHyCgZreKc + +it's worth noting that this is the first start of it, and I haven't used it on a boat yet..I had planned to try it tomorrow on a lake anyway, just to see how it goes. Could the low water in the bucket affect the throttle ability? I really can't find any info on operation of this motor for some reason..but I know I really want to take my 12 ft aluminum boat fishing tomorrow + +Cheers","Re: Service Manual +It was the only 1992 4hp manual available, so I'm assuming its content applies to your model. + +Take a look at #9 in this parts blow up, control engine. I have the number circled in red. This knob on the tiller is a friction control knob. Is it possible the knob is turned too far in the direction of less friction? Try turning the knob clockwise, if this is the direction to increase tiller handle friction. Turn counterclockwise if not. + +I'd remove the carb intake and take a look at what's happening with the carb throttle plates and butterfly when you're engaging/disengaging choke, as well as when your turning tiller throttle. When choke is engaged, the carb butterfly should completely close, or if you engage only halfway then the butterfly should only close halfway, etc. As you turn tiller handle to increase/decrease throttle, you should see the throttle plates inside the carb move back and forth. + +I really can't explain why rpms are increasing as you engage more choke, somehow acting as the throttle body. Who knows what has been tinkered with in the past with this engine. It's quite possible you'll need to disassemble the chokes articulating parts and tillers throttle cable, then reassemble following the service manual.","Re: Service Manual +It was the only 1992 4hp manual available, so I'm assuming its content applies to your model. + +Take a look at #9 in this parts blow up, control engine. I have the number circled in red. This knob on the tiller is a friction control knob. Is it possible the knob is turned too far in the direction of less friction? Try turning the knob clockwise, if this is the direction to increase tiller handle friction. Turn counterclockwise if not. + +I'd remove the carb intake and take a look at what's happening with the carb throttle plates and butterfly when you're engaging/disengaging choke, as well as when your turning tiller throttle. When choke is engaged, the carb butterfly should completely close, or if you engage only halfway then the butterfly should only close halfway, etc. As you turn tiller handle to increase/decrease throttle, you should see the throttle plates inside the carb move back and forth. + +I really can't explain why rpms are increasing as you engage more choke, somehow acting as the throttle body. Who knows what has been tinkered with in the past with this engine. It's quite possible you'll need to disassemble the chokes articulating parts and tillers throttle cable, then reassemble following the service manual.","Thanks for answering. The motor ran fine. When I got home, the trim switches and the start switch did not function. No clicks nothing. All three switches failed at the same time. I got the motor down by leaking the fluid and proceeded to check. So far, 13.5v at the motor, all fuses, ptt solenoid and start motor. Checked the trim motor by connecting to battery. Runs fine. Checked start motor by jumping solenoid to battery line. It fires up. Still no action from start switch, the trim switch on the motor nor the trim switch in the throttle quad." +"Hi..I just bought a used 4hp 2 stroke 1992 yamaha. I'm having some issues, I think, with the throttle. It seems to me the tiller throttle isn't affecting the operation of the motor, but the choke does? I'm totally new to this engine, and can't seem to find an owner's manual on it without paying $30 dollars I don't have..so I'm kinda stuck trying to figure out how to even use this thing, so I could just be doing it completely wrong. + +I was under the impression that I close the choke to start it, then open it after it starts..but it won't start closed, only open. Here's a video to show me starting it / how it's working. +https://youtu.be/rePY7iXUq0I + +This video shows the cover off, and appears that the throttle cable is hooked up..just don't know why it's operating the way it is. Is this normal? Am I forgetting to use one of the other 10 levers on this thing that I can't actually identify? haha..plz help. + +https://youtu.be/fbHyCgZreKc + +it's worth noting that this is the first start of it, and I haven't used it on a boat yet..I had planned to try it tomorrow on a lake anyway, just to see how it goes. Could the low water in the bucket affect the throttle ability? I really can't find any info on operation of this motor for some reason..but I know I really want to take my 12 ft aluminum boat fishing tomorrow + +Cheers","There should also be a lever located on the carb, where the throttle cable attaches. You can manually push this lever down, either with engine on or off. Flip the tiller over, exposing the underside with the cables. Push this carb throttle lever down and watch what happens with the cable. Also, push this carb lever down when engine is running in neutral. What happens...increase in rpm, nothing?","There should also be a lever located on the carb, where the throttle cable attaches. You can manually push this lever down, either with engine on or off. Flip the tiller over, exposing the underside with the cables. Push this carb throttle lever down and watch what happens with the cable. Also, push this carb lever down when engine is running in neutral. What happens...increase in rpm, nothing?","saran wrap looking stuff is what is left of the inner liner of your fuel line. did u change all lines on motor too, they only last 8-10 yrs. Waxey debris is what is left of the adhesive that bonds the inner and outer line together after the ethanol gets done eating it. you did not say how old fuel tank is. 2000 and newer should be good. crud from the tank should be picked up by water separator filter between tank and motor. Hope this helps." +"Hey Guys, +Looking for some advice and what to look for. +96 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp with 3 cylinders is running well with new spark plugs. After 2-3 weeks or approx 10 hours of run time, cylinder 1 and 3 plugs are getting wet fouled (black deposits) and engine is losing power. I am using spark plugs specified in the manual. Set up a tiny tach and cylinder 2 is showing WOT 4200 RPM, but 1 and 3 are only reaching 2000 RPM at WOT. Compression is 120 on all 3 cylinders. + +Any help would be much appreciated.","Whenever you've got 1 or 2 fouled plugs and the other(s) are good, it's a good idea to time and sync carbs from scratch. Or at the very least, reset the pilot screw for each carb. The picture below comes out of your engines service manual and it details the number of turns for each pilot screw. Important to note, each carb has a different number of pilot screw turns to spec. These are spec of course and shouldn't imply where each screw should ultimately be. Think of it as a starting point for each pilot screw. As the engine ages, it may like the mix more lean or more rich. + +First start up engine and get it warmed up before making adjustments. Remove plugs and clean. Reinstall plugs. Turn in each pilot screw until it seats (gently), noting the number of turns (if you find that carbs 1 & 3 pilot screws are turned too much IN, this is probably the reason of fouled plugs). Follow the specs for each pilot screw turn out. Start engine and listen to how it runs. Don't be concerned with the idle speed, as this adjustment is done last. Start the pilot screws adjustment by turning them in or out 1/4 turn increments. Let engine catch up with your adjustment. If engine is bogging down to stall, turn each screw 1/2 turn the opposite direction from your initial turn. Make small adjustments. Once she's purring nicely, if the idle speed (rpms) need adjusting then turn in (increase rpm) or turn out (decrease rpm) the idle speed screw. Make small adjustments. + +If it's been a few years or more since you last pulled the carbs and jets for cleaning, this will make a big difference in performance. Especially since you're losing power. The orifice of each jet is tiny and doesn't take much debris for it to become clogged. I wouldn't put too much faith in the tiny tach. They are helpful at times, but unreliable. Other than a true tachometer, nothing is more helpful than a good set of ears to listen to what the engine is telling ya. Good luck.","Whenever you've got 1 or 2 fouled plugs and the other(s) are good, it's a good idea to time and sync carbs from scratch. Or at the very least, reset the pilot screw for each carb. The picture below comes out of your engines service manual and it details the number of turns for each pilot screw. Important to note, each carb has a different number of pilot screw turns to spec. These are spec of course and shouldn't imply where each screw should ultimately be. Think of it as a starting point for each pilot screw. As the engine ages, it may like the mix more lean or more rich. + +First start up engine and get it warmed up before making adjustments. Remove plugs and clean. Reinstall plugs. Turn in each pilot screw until it seats (gently), noting the number of turns (if you find that carbs 1 & 3 pilot screws are turned too much IN, this is probably the reason of fouled plugs). Follow the specs for each pilot screw turn out. Start engine and listen to how it runs. Don't be concerned with the idle speed, as this adjustment is done last. Start the pilot screws adjustment by turning them in or out 1/4 turn increments. Let engine catch up with your adjustment. If engine is bogging down to stall, turn each screw 1/2 turn the opposite direction from your initial turn. Make small adjustments. Once she's purring nicely, if the idle speed (rpms) need adjusting then turn in (increase rpm) or turn out (decrease rpm) the idle speed screw. Make small adjustments. + +If it's been a few years or more since you last pulled the carbs and jets for cleaning, this will make a big difference in performance. Especially since you're losing power. The orifice of each jet is tiny and doesn't take much debris for it to become clogged. I wouldn't put too much faith in the tiny tach. They are helpful at times, but unreliable. Other than a true tachometer, nothing is more helpful than a good set of ears to listen to what the engine is telling ya. Good luck.","I think the motor is newer it's the camo version, I will look for a model number I will check all lines and filter and pump. BUT what is sync the carb to ign. I have a service manual and read it thru and can't find that info." +"Hey Guys, +Looking for some advice and what to look for. +96 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp with 3 cylinders is running well with new spark plugs. After 2-3 weeks or approx 10 hours of run time, cylinder 1 and 3 plugs are getting wet fouled (black deposits) and engine is losing power. I am using spark plugs specified in the manual. Set up a tiny tach and cylinder 2 is showing WOT 4200 RPM, but 1 and 3 are only reaching 2000 RPM at WOT. Compression is 120 on all 3 cylinders. + +Any help would be much appreciated.","I agree, do a proper carb reset. While you have the carbs off, inspect your reed valves and make sure they still look decent. The tiny tach can give you a false reading if it is too close to the other coil leads.","I agree, do a proper carb reset. While you have the carbs off, inspect your reed valves and make sure they still look decent. The tiny tach can give you a false reading if it is too close to the other coil leads.","I work on Yamahas quite often.....I'm not impressed. Honestly, I think Tohatsu/Honda is a better outboard. Only had 4 or 5 Tohatsu or Honda in here for work in the last 20 years. Worst repair was a frozen lower unit on a 40 Tohatsu and that was owner neglect. Guy was towing it great distances with motor in neutral .....damaged prop shaft seal.....besides that he left water in for the winter....housing didn't crack but rust developed.....never checked oil come spring. By mid summer the upper bearing froze up. See this alot in all outboards. This here is the best outboard I ever bought new. It's your call, but Tohatsu/Honda is my first choice.....and I went to school with Johnson/Evinrude.....outboard repair and rebuilding since 1966." +"Hey Guys, +Looking for some advice and what to look for. +96 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp with 3 cylinders is running well with new spark plugs. After 2-3 weeks or approx 10 hours of run time, cylinder 1 and 3 plugs are getting wet fouled (black deposits) and engine is losing power. I am using spark plugs specified in the manual. Set up a tiny tach and cylinder 2 is showing WOT 4200 RPM, but 1 and 3 are only reaching 2000 RPM at WOT. Compression is 120 on all 3 cylinders. + +Any help would be much appreciated.","Trouble shooting 101----Do a compression test and check for STRONG spark on the leads.----Strong spark is able to jump a gap of 3/8"" or more.","Trouble shooting 101----Do a compression test and check for STRONG spark on the leads.----Strong spark is able to jump a gap of 3/8"" or more.",Almost any commericially available diode will work. Just get one the size of the good one that you have. +"Hey Guys, +Looking for some advice and what to look for. +96 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp with 3 cylinders is running well with new spark plugs. After 2-3 weeks or approx 10 hours of run time, cylinder 1 and 3 plugs are getting wet fouled (black deposits) and engine is losing power. I am using spark plugs specified in the manual. Set up a tiny tach and cylinder 2 is showing WOT 4200 RPM, but 1 and 3 are only reaching 2000 RPM at WOT. Compression is 120 on all 3 cylinders. + +Any help would be much appreciated.","racerone said: + + + + Trouble shooting 101----Do a compression test and check for STRONG spark on the leads.----Strong spark is able to jump a gap of 3/8"" or more. + +Click to expand... + + +Not disagreeing with your suggestion, compression and spark are 2 of the 3 systems necessary for top performance. But the 3rd system, fuel, is responsible for 90% of all engine issues. Even more so with 2 stroke carb'd outboards. Fuel system should always be where troubleshooting begins.","racerone said: + + + + Trouble shooting 101----Do a compression test and check for STRONG spark on the leads.----Strong spark is able to jump a gap of 3/8"" or more. + +Click to expand... + + +Not disagreeing with your suggestion, compression and spark are 2 of the 3 systems necessary for top performance. But the 3rd system, fuel, is responsible for 90% of all engine issues. Even more so with 2 stroke carb'd outboards. Fuel system should always be where troubleshooting begins.", +"Hey Guys, +Looking for some advice and what to look for. +96 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp with 3 cylinders is running well with new spark plugs. After 2-3 weeks or approx 10 hours of run time, cylinder 1 and 3 plugs are getting wet fouled (black deposits) and engine is losing power. I am using spark plugs specified in the manual. Set up a tiny tach and cylinder 2 is showing WOT 4200 RPM, but 1 and 3 are only reaching 2000 RPM at WOT. Compression is 120 on all 3 cylinders. + +Any help would be much appreciated.","Sorry, most carburetor "" problems "" turn out to be something else !","Sorry, most carburetor "" problems "" turn out to be something else !",Use a screwdriver / wood dowel / chisel and bump in both directions to loosen it up. +"Hey Guys, +Looking for some advice and what to look for. +96 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp with 3 cylinders is running well with new spark plugs. After 2-3 weeks or approx 10 hours of run time, cylinder 1 and 3 plugs are getting wet fouled (black deposits) and engine is losing power. I am using spark plugs specified in the manual. Set up a tiny tach and cylinder 2 is showing WOT 4200 RPM, but 1 and 3 are only reaching 2000 RPM at WOT. Compression is 120 on all 3 cylinders. + +Any help would be much appreciated.","Thanks everyone, +Just figured there is no warm or hot water coming out of the pee hole even after the motor runs for a while. It is just cold water all the time. Could a thermostat be the problem ?","Thanks everyone, +Just figured there is no warm or hot water coming out of the pee hole even after the motor runs for a while. It is just cold water all the time. Could a thermostat be the problem ?","No special too needed. Once all attaching hardware and the rails are removed a twist and wiggle usually gets them out, Sometimes the rubber ring sticks and requires more effort." +"Hey Guys, +Looking for some advice and what to look for. +96 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp with 3 cylinders is running well with new spark plugs. After 2-3 weeks or approx 10 hours of run time, cylinder 1 and 3 plugs are getting wet fouled (black deposits) and engine is losing power. I am using spark plugs specified in the manual. Set up a tiny tach and cylinder 2 is showing WOT 4200 RPM, but 1 and 3 are only reaching 2000 RPM at WOT. Compression is 120 on all 3 cylinders. + +Any help would be much appreciated.","racerone said: + + + + Sorry, most carburetor "" problems "" turn out to be something else ! + +Click to expand... + + +Hi all, +Changed the thermostat but the issue is the same. The spark plugs are getting fouled after a month (10 hours or so) and engine is losing power. Checked spark and compression, they are fine. Engine is running fine when i put in new spark plugs. Opened the air intake cover and noticed the butterfly valves on the three carbs are always open, at neutral, idle and at full throttle. They are only closed if the choke lever is pulled. Is this normal ?","racerone said: + + + + Sorry, most carburetor "" problems "" turn out to be something else ! + +Click to expand... + + +Hi all, +Changed the thermostat but the issue is the same. The spark plugs are getting fouled after a month (10 hours or so) and engine is losing power. Checked spark and compression, they are fine. Engine is running fine when i put in new spark plugs. Opened the air intake cover and noticed the butterfly valves on the three carbs are always open, at neutral, idle and at full throttle. They are only closed if the choke lever is pulled. Is this normal ?",The VST houses the high pressure fuel pump and filter. It is under the intake manifold. +"Hey Guys, +Looking for some advice and what to look for. +96 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp with 3 cylinders is running well with new spark plugs. After 2-3 weeks or approx 10 hours of run time, cylinder 1 and 3 plugs are getting wet fouled (black deposits) and engine is losing power. I am using spark plugs specified in the manual. Set up a tiny tach and cylinder 2 is showing WOT 4200 RPM, but 1 and 3 are only reaching 2000 RPM at WOT. Compression is 120 on all 3 cylinders. + +Any help would be much appreciated.","Are you sure you are looking at the throttle butterflies ?----Or the other set which is the choke flappers ?---And does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or better on all 3 leads ?","Are you sure you are looking at the throttle butterflies ?----Or the other set which is the choke flappers ?---And does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or better on all 3 leads ?","I had heard that a small piece of zinc anode should be cause the engine to overheat,it also showed that the small piece of zinc anode is broken off and fell into the cooling system and blocks explain part of the cooling system,that I have removed and tested the engine in half an hour,and there was not no alarm,I hope that it is the cause of the engine overheating.." +"Hey Guys, +Looking for some advice and what to look for. +96 Yamaha 2 stroke 30 hp with 3 cylinders is running well with new spark plugs. After 2-3 weeks or approx 10 hours of run time, cylinder 1 and 3 plugs are getting wet fouled (black deposits) and engine is losing power. I am using spark plugs specified in the manual. Set up a tiny tach and cylinder 2 is showing WOT 4200 RPM, but 1 and 3 are only reaching 2000 RPM at WOT. Compression is 120 on all 3 cylinders. + +Any help would be much appreciated.","racerone said: + + + + Are you sure you are looking at the throttle butterflies ?----Or the other set which is the choke flappers ?---And does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or better on all 3 leads ? + +Click to expand... + + +Using Spark plugs that are factory recommended. BH7S 10. I am looking at the ones that are clearly visible as soon as the air cover is removed. May be they are choke flappers. The butterfly valves behind them are opening 3/4 th at full throttle amd fully closing at neutral. Should they be fully open 90 degrees at full throttle ?","racerone said: + + + + Are you sure you are looking at the throttle butterflies ?----Or the other set which is the choke flappers ?---And does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or better on all 3 leads ? + +Click to expand... + + +Using Spark plugs that are factory recommended. BH7S 10. I am looking at the ones that are clearly visible as soon as the air cover is removed. May be they are choke flappers. The butterfly valves behind them are opening 3/4 th at full throttle amd fully closing at neutral. Should they be fully open 90 degrees at full throttle ?","I had the same problem . I have twin 150 engines . Motor down but will not come up. Could not release the lock on the left side of the engine. ( later I found out that most of the engines out there you can't release it. It's not mechanical but directs fluid a different way. But that's another story. +My boat was on a floating dock and I have no trailer . I disconnected the through bolt holding the tilt bracket. Than I was going to hoist the engine up to get at the tilt motor. Could not raise the engine at the dock and had to take it to a marina and pay big bucks to replace the motor. +But before you do that try this first to see if it's you motor. Remove the wires at the engine going to the motor. Apply 12 volts and listen if the motor is working or not working. If not you should have any problem lifting your motor and replace the tilt motor. You could get them on line for about $300 I paid $500 to the marine , ouch. Good luck; +Flabob1" +"Hello everybody, first time poster here. Thanks in advance for any advice. + +I have a 1999 or 2000 Yamaha 40TLRZ (low hours, I can get maybe 10-20 hours on the water a year). I recently had to rebuild the carburetors, middle one was full of crystalline stuff (salt?) anyhow - new floats, new float valves, needles, valve seats, seals etc. Also replaced the fuel pump and made sure the fuel filter was clean (did not replace). + +Engine started like a dream. Adjusted needles for fastest idle (around one turn open or so). And off we went. But ran great for about a half an hour planning at high speed going to our favorite fishing spot. Bluefish hitting the surface, casting and able to bring one aboard, then off to the place where my brother can spear fish and I'm telling him ""come on let's go!"" and he says he's got the throttle full on. (travelling at a fast idle at this point with motor sounding like it was bogging). In fact the vent on the gas tank was closed. I opened it. Still no joy. + +I powered off. Took of the hood, checked throttle linkage - seems well adjusted (made sure this was the case before hand). Manually manipulated the butterfly linkage and saw all was moving as it should. Timing adjustment moves from idle point to high RPM point just fine as it is supposed to. + +I then started it up, moved the idle speed to fast, motor revved up fine, then put the motor in gear and moved the throttle forward and it sort of punched up a couple of times (zing.. zing..) and up we went to full speed. So I thought the engine must have sucked itself into some kind of locked closed situation when the vent was closed. We motored back home after landing a striper and a blue, and then again, after a half hour at high speed. Slowed down, then tried to speed up and it bogged down again! Could not get it to go fast anymore. Moved the throttle to full on and every once in a while a zing up to full RPM for a fraction of a second, but no more. + +Seems like a fuel issue. If anybody has seen this before, would be much obliged for your guidance. + +Again thanks in advance. + +Jerry","Oh also, before we put it in the water we also replaced the impeller. + +When the throttle cable gave out I wasn't even touching it which is interesting to me. We just made it out of deeper water and I could see it was a bit shallower but I highly doubt we hit anything. Maybe sucked something up and its still there? Engine still spits out water but could it be partly clogged causing a lack of power?","Oh also, before we put it in the water we also replaced the impeller. + +When the throttle cable gave out I wasn't even touching it which is interesting to me. We just made it out of deeper water and I could see it was a bit shallower but I highly doubt we hit anything. Maybe sucked something up and its still there? Engine still spits out water but could it be partly clogged causing a lack of power?","hardrider5 said: + + + + Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Update - well the new pumps are holding up fine into a second season. First trip out this season I had one engine not exceeding 2500 RPM. Took VST apart on that engine and found the screen full of very fine red material. Cleaned the screens on both motors and replaced the small ""filters"" on top of VST. Engines run fine again." +"Hello everybody, first time poster here. Thanks in advance for any advice. + +I have a 1999 or 2000 Yamaha 40TLRZ (low hours, I can get maybe 10-20 hours on the water a year). I recently had to rebuild the carburetors, middle one was full of crystalline stuff (salt?) anyhow - new floats, new float valves, needles, valve seats, seals etc. Also replaced the fuel pump and made sure the fuel filter was clean (did not replace). + +Engine started like a dream. Adjusted needles for fastest idle (around one turn open or so). And off we went. But ran great for about a half an hour planning at high speed going to our favorite fishing spot. Bluefish hitting the surface, casting and able to bring one aboard, then off to the place where my brother can spear fish and I'm telling him ""come on let's go!"" and he says he's got the throttle full on. (travelling at a fast idle at this point with motor sounding like it was bogging). In fact the vent on the gas tank was closed. I opened it. Still no joy. + +I powered off. Took of the hood, checked throttle linkage - seems well adjusted (made sure this was the case before hand). Manually manipulated the butterfly linkage and saw all was moving as it should. Timing adjustment moves from idle point to high RPM point just fine as it is supposed to. + +I then started it up, moved the idle speed to fast, motor revved up fine, then put the motor in gear and moved the throttle forward and it sort of punched up a couple of times (zing.. zing..) and up we went to full speed. So I thought the engine must have sucked itself into some kind of locked closed situation when the vent was closed. We motored back home after landing a striper and a blue, and then again, after a half hour at high speed. Slowed down, then tried to speed up and it bogged down again! Could not get it to go fast anymore. Moved the throttle to full on and every once in a while a zing up to full RPM for a fraction of a second, but no more. + +Seems like a fuel issue. If anybody has seen this before, would be much obliged for your guidance. + +Again thanks in advance. + +Jerry","I've flushed the engine with a hose after every use since I'm on saltwater. When connecting with that hose adapter is shoots the water through quite strong so that doesn't seem clogged at that point. Maybe clogged down lower? + +(Forgive my ignorance, I'm learning)","I've flushed the engine with a hose after every use since I'm on saltwater. When connecting with that hose adapter is shoots the water through quite strong so that doesn't seem clogged at that point. Maybe clogged down lower? + +(Forgive my ignorance, I'm learning)","Thanks for the suggestion. Hate to have o pull the head, but seem to have no choice." +"Hello everybody, first time poster here. Thanks in advance for any advice. + +I have a 1999 or 2000 Yamaha 40TLRZ (low hours, I can get maybe 10-20 hours on the water a year). I recently had to rebuild the carburetors, middle one was full of crystalline stuff (salt?) anyhow - new floats, new float valves, needles, valve seats, seals etc. Also replaced the fuel pump and made sure the fuel filter was clean (did not replace). + +Engine started like a dream. Adjusted needles for fastest idle (around one turn open or so). And off we went. But ran great for about a half an hour planning at high speed going to our favorite fishing spot. Bluefish hitting the surface, casting and able to bring one aboard, then off to the place where my brother can spear fish and I'm telling him ""come on let's go!"" and he says he's got the throttle full on. (travelling at a fast idle at this point with motor sounding like it was bogging). In fact the vent on the gas tank was closed. I opened it. Still no joy. + +I powered off. Took of the hood, checked throttle linkage - seems well adjusted (made sure this was the case before hand). Manually manipulated the butterfly linkage and saw all was moving as it should. Timing adjustment moves from idle point to high RPM point just fine as it is supposed to. + +I then started it up, moved the idle speed to fast, motor revved up fine, then put the motor in gear and moved the throttle forward and it sort of punched up a couple of times (zing.. zing..) and up we went to full speed. So I thought the engine must have sucked itself into some kind of locked closed situation when the vent was closed. We motored back home after landing a striper and a blue, and then again, after a half hour at high speed. Slowed down, then tried to speed up and it bogged down again! Could not get it to go fast anymore. Moved the throttle to full on and every once in a while a zing up to full RPM for a fraction of a second, but no more. + +Seems like a fuel issue. If anybody has seen this before, would be much obliged for your guidance. + +Again thanks in advance. + +Jerry","schreck425 said: + + + + I've flushed the engine with a hose after every use since I'm on saltwater. When connecting with that hose adapter is shoots the water through quite strong so that doesn't seem clogged at that point. Maybe clogged down lower? + +(Forgive my ignorance, I'm learning) + +Click to expand... + + + +You are in the wrong thread. This is my thread!","schreck425 said: + + + + I've flushed the engine with a hose after every use since I'm on saltwater. When connecting with that hose adapter is shoots the water through quite strong so that doesn't seem clogged at that point. Maybe clogged down lower? + +(Forgive my ignorance, I'm learning) + +Click to expand... + + + +You are in the wrong thread. This is my thread!",www.jetsrus.com +"Hello everybody, first time poster here. Thanks in advance for any advice. + +I have a 1999 or 2000 Yamaha 40TLRZ (low hours, I can get maybe 10-20 hours on the water a year). I recently had to rebuild the carburetors, middle one was full of crystalline stuff (salt?) anyhow - new floats, new float valves, needles, valve seats, seals etc. Also replaced the fuel pump and made sure the fuel filter was clean (did not replace). + +Engine started like a dream. Adjusted needles for fastest idle (around one turn open or so). And off we went. But ran great for about a half an hour planning at high speed going to our favorite fishing spot. Bluefish hitting the surface, casting and able to bring one aboard, then off to the place where my brother can spear fish and I'm telling him ""come on let's go!"" and he says he's got the throttle full on. (travelling at a fast idle at this point with motor sounding like it was bogging). In fact the vent on the gas tank was closed. I opened it. Still no joy. + +I powered off. Took of the hood, checked throttle linkage - seems well adjusted (made sure this was the case before hand). Manually manipulated the butterfly linkage and saw all was moving as it should. Timing adjustment moves from idle point to high RPM point just fine as it is supposed to. + +I then started it up, moved the idle speed to fast, motor revved up fine, then put the motor in gear and moved the throttle forward and it sort of punched up a couple of times (zing.. zing..) and up we went to full speed. So I thought the engine must have sucked itself into some kind of locked closed situation when the vent was closed. We motored back home after landing a striper and a blue, and then again, after a half hour at high speed. Slowed down, then tried to speed up and it bogged down again! Could not get it to go fast anymore. Moved the throttle to full on and every once in a while a zing up to full RPM for a fraction of a second, but no more. + +Seems like a fuel issue. If anybody has seen this before, would be much obliged for your guidance. + +Again thanks in advance. + +Jerry",Ugh... my bad!!!,Ugh... my bad!!!,"I've never heard of a faulty oil level sensor causeing a no spark situation. Does the starter engage when you key to ""start"" position? Have you checked all fuses including the fuses in the engine?" +"Hello everybody, first time poster here. Thanks in advance for any advice. + +I have a 1999 or 2000 Yamaha 40TLRZ (low hours, I can get maybe 10-20 hours on the water a year). I recently had to rebuild the carburetors, middle one was full of crystalline stuff (salt?) anyhow - new floats, new float valves, needles, valve seats, seals etc. Also replaced the fuel pump and made sure the fuel filter was clean (did not replace). + +Engine started like a dream. Adjusted needles for fastest idle (around one turn open or so). And off we went. But ran great for about a half an hour planning at high speed going to our favorite fishing spot. Bluefish hitting the surface, casting and able to bring one aboard, then off to the place where my brother can spear fish and I'm telling him ""come on let's go!"" and he says he's got the throttle full on. (travelling at a fast idle at this point with motor sounding like it was bogging). In fact the vent on the gas tank was closed. I opened it. Still no joy. + +I powered off. Took of the hood, checked throttle linkage - seems well adjusted (made sure this was the case before hand). Manually manipulated the butterfly linkage and saw all was moving as it should. Timing adjustment moves from idle point to high RPM point just fine as it is supposed to. + +I then started it up, moved the idle speed to fast, motor revved up fine, then put the motor in gear and moved the throttle forward and it sort of punched up a couple of times (zing.. zing..) and up we went to full speed. So I thought the engine must have sucked itself into some kind of locked closed situation when the vent was closed. We motored back home after landing a striper and a blue, and then again, after a half hour at high speed. Slowed down, then tried to speed up and it bogged down again! Could not get it to go fast anymore. Moved the throttle to full on and every once in a while a zing up to full RPM for a fraction of a second, but no more. + +Seems like a fuel issue. If anybody has seen this before, would be much obliged for your guidance. + +Again thanks in advance. + +Jerry","jkorten said: + + + + Hello everybody, first time poster here. Thanks in advance for any advice. + +I have a 1999 or 2000 Yamaha 40TLRZ (low hours, I can get maybe 10-20 hours on the water a year). I recently had to rebuild the carburetors, middle one was full of crystalline stuff (salt?) anyhow - new floats, new float valves, needles, valve seats, seals etc. Also replaced the fuel pump and made sure the fuel filter was clean (did not replace). + +Engine started like a dream. Adjusted needles for fastest idle (around one turn open or so). And off we went. But ran great for about a half an hour planning at high speed going to our favorite fishing spot. Bluefish hitting the surface, casting and able to bring one aboard, then off to the place where my brother can spear fish and I'm telling him ""come on let's go!"" and he says he's got the throttle full on. (travelling at a fast idle at this point with motor sounding like it was bogging). In fact the vent on the gas tank was closed. I opened it. Still no joy. + +I powered off. Took of the hood, checked throttle linkage - seems well adjusted (made sure this was the case before hand). Manually manipulated the butterfly linkage and saw all was moving as it should. Timing adjustment moves from idle point to high RPM point just fine as it is supposed to. + +I then started it up, moved the idle speed to fast, motor revved up fine, then put the motor in gear and moved the throttle forward and it sort of punched up a couple of times (zing.. zing..) and up we went to full speed. So I thought the engine must have sucked itself into some kind of locked closed situation when the vent was closed. We motored back home after landing a striper and a blue, and then again, after a half hour at high speed. Slowed down, then tried to speed up and it bogged down again! Could not get it to go fast anymore. Moved the throttle to full on and every once in a while a zing up to full RPM for a fraction of a second, but no more. + +Seems like a fuel issue. If anybody has seen this before, would be much obliged for your guidance. + +Again thanks in advance. + +Jerry + +Click to expand... + + +Any chance water had got into fuel tank? Old fuel, or often replaced? Did you notice what the status of the primer bulb was during the time the engine was bogging down?..collapsed, full, normal? + +When you cleaned the carbs, did you also pull jets from each carb and clear each of debris?","jkorten said: + + + + Hello everybody, first time poster here. Thanks in advance for any advice. + +I have a 1999 or 2000 Yamaha 40TLRZ (low hours, I can get maybe 10-20 hours on the water a year). I recently had to rebuild the carburetors, middle one was full of crystalline stuff (salt?) anyhow - new floats, new float valves, needles, valve seats, seals etc. Also replaced the fuel pump and made sure the fuel filter was clean (did not replace). + +Engine started like a dream. Adjusted needles for fastest idle (around one turn open or so). And off we went. But ran great for about a half an hour planning at high speed going to our favorite fishing spot. Bluefish hitting the surface, casting and able to bring one aboard, then off to the place where my brother can spear fish and I'm telling him ""come on let's go!"" and he says he's got the throttle full on. (travelling at a fast idle at this point with motor sounding like it was bogging). In fact the vent on the gas tank was closed. I opened it. Still no joy. + +I powered off. Took of the hood, checked throttle linkage - seems well adjusted (made sure this was the case before hand). Manually manipulated the butterfly linkage and saw all was moving as it should. Timing adjustment moves from idle point to high RPM point just fine as it is supposed to. + +I then started it up, moved the idle speed to fast, motor revved up fine, then put the motor in gear and moved the throttle forward and it sort of punched up a couple of times (zing.. zing..) and up we went to full speed. So I thought the engine must have sucked itself into some kind of locked closed situation when the vent was closed. We motored back home after landing a striper and a blue, and then again, after a half hour at high speed. Slowed down, then tried to speed up and it bogged down again! Could not get it to go fast anymore. Moved the throttle to full on and every once in a while a zing up to full RPM for a fraction of a second, but no more. + +Seems like a fuel issue. If anybody has seen this before, would be much obliged for your guidance. + +Again thanks in advance. + +Jerry + +Click to expand... + + +Any chance water had got into fuel tank? Old fuel, or often replaced? Did you notice what the status of the primer bulb was during the time the engine was bogging down?..collapsed, full, normal? + +When you cleaned the carbs, did you also pull jets from each carb and clear each of debris?","floor is solid ,I think it's fiber glass, drilled it before. Just wanted something strong enough to put up with Lake Erie being ""unfreindly"". Would you recomend an adhesive to bond wood to floor before sealing it with resin? was thinking of doing whole floor , but, I saw the price of marine plywood, good idea just to do mount area." +"Hello everybody, first time poster here. Thanks in advance for any advice. + +I have a 1999 or 2000 Yamaha 40TLRZ (low hours, I can get maybe 10-20 hours on the water a year). I recently had to rebuild the carburetors, middle one was full of crystalline stuff (salt?) anyhow - new floats, new float valves, needles, valve seats, seals etc. Also replaced the fuel pump and made sure the fuel filter was clean (did not replace). + +Engine started like a dream. Adjusted needles for fastest idle (around one turn open or so). And off we went. But ran great for about a half an hour planning at high speed going to our favorite fishing spot. Bluefish hitting the surface, casting and able to bring one aboard, then off to the place where my brother can spear fish and I'm telling him ""come on let's go!"" and he says he's got the throttle full on. (travelling at a fast idle at this point with motor sounding like it was bogging). In fact the vent on the gas tank was closed. I opened it. Still no joy. + +I powered off. Took of the hood, checked throttle linkage - seems well adjusted (made sure this was the case before hand). Manually manipulated the butterfly linkage and saw all was moving as it should. Timing adjustment moves from idle point to high RPM point just fine as it is supposed to. + +I then started it up, moved the idle speed to fast, motor revved up fine, then put the motor in gear and moved the throttle forward and it sort of punched up a couple of times (zing.. zing..) and up we went to full speed. So I thought the engine must have sucked itself into some kind of locked closed situation when the vent was closed. We motored back home after landing a striper and a blue, and then again, after a half hour at high speed. Slowed down, then tried to speed up and it bogged down again! Could not get it to go fast anymore. Moved the throttle to full on and every once in a while a zing up to full RPM for a fraction of a second, but no more. + +Seems like a fuel issue. If anybody has seen this before, would be much obliged for your guidance. + +Again thanks in advance. + +Jerry","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Any chance water had got into fuel tank? Old fuel, or often replaced? Did you notice what the status of the primer bulb was during the time the engine was bogging down?..collapsed, full, normal? + +When you cleaned the carbs, did you also pull jets from each carb and clear each of debris? + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you - Perhaps a chance. I temporarily bypassed my water filter before rebuilding the carbs, perhaps I put this back in. Primer bulb was stiff. Indeed I did replace the jets and there was a brass insert (the jet seat) that I also pulled and replaced with new O-rings below. + +But I will put the water filter back in line and swap out the gas tank thanks for the suggestion. + +Jerry","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Any chance water had got into fuel tank? Old fuel, or often replaced? Did you notice what the status of the primer bulb was during the time the engine was bogging down?..collapsed, full, normal? + +When you cleaned the carbs, did you also pull jets from each carb and clear each of debris? + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you - Perhaps a chance. I temporarily bypassed my water filter before rebuilding the carbs, perhaps I put this back in. Primer bulb was stiff. Indeed I did replace the jets and there was a brass insert (the jet seat) that I also pulled and replaced with new O-rings below. + +But I will put the water filter back in line and swap out the gas tank thanks for the suggestion. + +Jerry","ETV. Electronic Throttle Valve. + +What help is it that you need?" +"Hello everybody, first time poster here. Thanks in advance for any advice. + +I have a 1999 or 2000 Yamaha 40TLRZ (low hours, I can get maybe 10-20 hours on the water a year). I recently had to rebuild the carburetors, middle one was full of crystalline stuff (salt?) anyhow - new floats, new float valves, needles, valve seats, seals etc. Also replaced the fuel pump and made sure the fuel filter was clean (did not replace). + +Engine started like a dream. Adjusted needles for fastest idle (around one turn open or so). And off we went. But ran great for about a half an hour planning at high speed going to our favorite fishing spot. Bluefish hitting the surface, casting and able to bring one aboard, then off to the place where my brother can spear fish and I'm telling him ""come on let's go!"" and he says he's got the throttle full on. (travelling at a fast idle at this point with motor sounding like it was bogging). In fact the vent on the gas tank was closed. I opened it. Still no joy. + +I powered off. Took of the hood, checked throttle linkage - seems well adjusted (made sure this was the case before hand). Manually manipulated the butterfly linkage and saw all was moving as it should. Timing adjustment moves from idle point to high RPM point just fine as it is supposed to. + +I then started it up, moved the idle speed to fast, motor revved up fine, then put the motor in gear and moved the throttle forward and it sort of punched up a couple of times (zing.. zing..) and up we went to full speed. So I thought the engine must have sucked itself into some kind of locked closed situation when the vent was closed. We motored back home after landing a striper and a blue, and then again, after a half hour at high speed. Slowed down, then tried to speed up and it bogged down again! Could not get it to go fast anymore. Moved the throttle to full on and every once in a while a zing up to full RPM for a fraction of a second, but no more. + +Seems like a fuel issue. If anybody has seen this before, would be much obliged for your guidance. + +Again thanks in advance. + +Jerry","jkorten said: + + + + Thank you - Perhaps a chance. I temporarily bypassed my water filter before rebuilding the carbs, perhaps I put this back in. Primer bulb was stiff. Indeed I did replace the jets and there was a brass insert (the jet seat) that I also pulled and replaced with new O-rings below. + +But I will put the water filter back in line and swap out the gas tank thanks for the suggestion. + +Jerry + +Click to expand... + + +So an update - the engine mostly will work at high RPM but occasionally I go through this phase where you advance the throttle full on, the engine goes brrrrr at a low RPM and suddently VROOOM then brrrrr then VROOOM then brrrr. Switching between the two RPM way to fast to be a fuel issue. Seems electrical. Do I just replace the solid state ignition module and spark plug wiring harness? + +Thanks + +Jerry","jkorten said: + + + + Thank you - Perhaps a chance. I temporarily bypassed my water filter before rebuilding the carbs, perhaps I put this back in. Primer bulb was stiff. Indeed I did replace the jets and there was a brass insert (the jet seat) that I also pulled and replaced with new O-rings below. + +But I will put the water filter back in line and swap out the gas tank thanks for the suggestion. + +Jerry + +Click to expand... + + +So an update - the engine mostly will work at high RPM but occasionally I go through this phase where you advance the throttle full on, the engine goes brrrrr at a low RPM and suddently VROOOM then brrrrr then VROOOM then brrrr. Switching between the two RPM way to fast to be a fuel issue. Seems electrical. Do I just replace the solid state ignition module and spark plug wiring harness? + +Thanks + +Jerry","Hmmm... seems pretty funny to have the pinion pushed up on the motor - why have a bearing then to prevent the driveshaft from going down, and no bearing to prevent it from going up? I don't think Yamaha engineers are that stupid. as for the preload pin, only 90 and up engines have them as far as I know - mine is an 89' 50ELF. anyways, I took out some shim material and after turning the driveshaft while pushing down I got a great gear pattern." +"Recently doing my pre winter tune up. Removed plugs; upper looked ok, bottom coated with very dry, brown powder (almost like dried up brownie), looks like a lot of rust. Can that much moisture get passed the fuel filter AND the carbureator? I use my outboard almost daily ....I usually tilt it up overnight etc..Is there a possibility that over our wet winter the humidity worked it way up the h2o intake, passed the impeller and condensated in the engine and caused the combustion chamber/pistons to rust? Thanks","jtmeade said: + + + + Recently doing my pre winter tune up. Removed plugs; upper looked ok, bottom coated with very dry, brown powder (almost like dried up brownie), looks like a lot of rust. Can that much moisture get passed the fuel filter AND the carbureator? I use my outboard almost daily ....I usually tilt it up overnight etc..Is there a possibility that over our wet winter the humidity worked it way up the h2o intake, passed the impeller and condensated in the engine and caused the combustion chamber/pistons to rust? Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +The brown gunk is carbon build up. And if you're only seeing this on 1 or 2 plugs verse all plugs, this carbon is a good indication the carb timing and sync is off. Too rich a mix being delivered to bottom cylinders. When mix enters the cylinder pre-ignition but does not completely burn (combust), what remains in the cylinder coats the piston head, cylinders, and plugs. Over time it hardens. Moisture isn't getting past the filter, carbs, etc. This residue is where the moisture is coming from. Need to reset your carbs and decarb the engine. Use yamaha ringfree or seafoam. I'd do a shock treatment, then run a decarb fuel additive with every fuel fill up for maintenance.","jtmeade said: + + + + Recently doing my pre winter tune up. Removed plugs; upper looked ok, bottom coated with very dry, brown powder (almost like dried up brownie), looks like a lot of rust. Can that much moisture get passed the fuel filter AND the carbureator? I use my outboard almost daily ....I usually tilt it up overnight etc..Is there a possibility that over our wet winter the humidity worked it way up the h2o intake, passed the impeller and condensated in the engine and caused the combustion chamber/pistons to rust? Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +The brown gunk is carbon build up. And if you're only seeing this on 1 or 2 plugs verse all plugs, this carbon is a good indication the carb timing and sync is off. Too rich a mix being delivered to bottom cylinders. When mix enters the cylinder pre-ignition but does not completely burn (combust), what remains in the cylinder coats the piston head, cylinders, and plugs. Over time it hardens. Moisture isn't getting past the filter, carbs, etc. This residue is where the moisture is coming from. Need to reset your carbs and decarb the engine. Use yamaha ringfree or seafoam. I'd do a shock treatment, then run a decarb fuel additive with every fuel fill up for maintenance.","air in the system will cause your symptoms...been a while but seem to remember the hynautic systems have a reservior that needs to be pressurized of the system won't behave properly too...little silver can, usually under the upper helm..." +"Recently doing my pre winter tune up. Removed plugs; upper looked ok, bottom coated with very dry, brown powder (almost like dried up brownie), looks like a lot of rust. Can that much moisture get passed the fuel filter AND the carbureator? I use my outboard almost daily ....I usually tilt it up overnight etc..Is there a possibility that over our wet winter the humidity worked it way up the h2o intake, passed the impeller and condensated in the engine and caused the combustion chamber/pistons to rust? Thanks","ClassicAQ said: + + + + The brown gunk is carbon build up. And if you're only seeing this on 1 or 2 plugs verse all plugs, this carbon is a good indication the carb timing and sync is off. Too rich a mix being delivered to bottom cylinders. When mix enters the cylinder pre-ignition but does not completely burn (combust), what remains in the cylinder coats the piston head, cylinders, and plugs. Over time it hardens. Moisture isn't getting past the filter, carbs, etc. This residue is where the moisture is coming from. Need to reset your carbs and decarb the engine. Use yamaha ringfree or seafoam. I'd do a shock treatment, then run a decarb fuel additive with every fuel fill up for maintenance. + +Click to expand... + +I did a small experiment: bought new plugs, gapped, installed carefullly. Bought new tank, fuel line, new fuel, mixed properly, new fuel filter. Drove dingy from shore to my anchored out boat, 100yards, for two round trips. Removed plugs this morning and the brown gunk was already back. So seems like your diagnosis rings true....being ignorant about carbureators ...are there two different jets that supply each of the pistons?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + The brown gunk is carbon build up. And if you're only seeing this on 1 or 2 plugs verse all plugs, this carbon is a good indication the carb timing and sync is off. Too rich a mix being delivered to bottom cylinders. When mix enters the cylinder pre-ignition but does not completely burn (combust), what remains in the cylinder coats the piston head, cylinders, and plugs. Over time it hardens. Moisture isn't getting past the filter, carbs, etc. This residue is where the moisture is coming from. Need to reset your carbs and decarb the engine. Use yamaha ringfree or seafoam. I'd do a shock treatment, then run a decarb fuel additive with every fuel fill up for maintenance. + +Click to expand... + +I did a small experiment: bought new plugs, gapped, installed carefullly. Bought new tank, fuel line, new fuel, mixed properly, new fuel filter. Drove dingy from shore to my anchored out boat, 100yards, for two round trips. Removed plugs this morning and the brown gunk was already back. So seems like your diagnosis rings true....being ignorant about carbureators ...are there two different jets that supply each of the pistons?","this is my first ever post, my 08 yamaha 250 started making what sounded like a rubbing noise under the flywheel- my mechanic told me sometimes the thin stainless steel liner betwheen the stator and the flywheel (glued to the inside of the flywheel) can come loose . we pulled the flywheel and sure enough he was right!! easy fix -replace flywheel. hoping I got it in time and did not harm stator! only problem is the cost of a new flywheel 1000$ I am curious if anyone else has experienced this issue" +"Recently doing my pre winter tune up. Removed plugs; upper looked ok, bottom coated with very dry, brown powder (almost like dried up brownie), looks like a lot of rust. Can that much moisture get passed the fuel filter AND the carbureator? I use my outboard almost daily ....I usually tilt it up overnight etc..Is there a possibility that over our wet winter the humidity worked it way up the h2o intake, passed the impeller and condensated in the engine and caused the combustion chamber/pistons to rust? Thanks","jtmeade said: + + + + ...are there two different jets that supply each of the pistons? + +Click to expand... + + +Reply back with your engines model number and year and I'll let you know.","jtmeade said: + + + + ...are there two different jets that supply each of the pistons? + +Click to expand... + + +Reply back with your engines model number and year and I'll let you know.",Intermittent faults are always wiring related. Sand all grounds metal to metal. Clean all connectors with electrical cleaner and put back together with dielectric grease. I like to do a few connectors at a time so you have an idea where the fault was. +"Recently doing my pre winter tune up. Removed plugs; upper looked ok, bottom coated with very dry, brown powder (almost like dried up brownie), looks like a lot of rust. Can that much moisture get passed the fuel filter AND the carbureator? I use my outboard almost daily ....I usually tilt it up overnight etc..Is there a possibility that over our wet winter the humidity worked it way up the h2o intake, passed the impeller and condensated in the engine and caused the combustion chamber/pistons to rust? Thanks",On a 6 hp there is one carburetor that feeds both cylinders.-----Do a compression test.,On a 6 hp there is one carburetor that feeds both cylinders.-----Do a compression test.,"Chris, I got the bleed kit and did the IV procedure a few days ago and got a good bit of air out of the cabin helm, which is higher than the deck helm. While doing that, I also did a partial bleed of the steering arm. No air there. I also did the IV procedure on the deck help - one very small air bubble. When I finished, everything seems to be working properly. + +Yesterday, I tested the steering again and it was still a bit sloppy but not nearly as bad as last week. Today, I went back to the higher cabin helm and got a bit more air out of that. Sort of scratching my head over that situation. There were no visible leaks on either helm. Then I took a close look at the O rings on the filler caps of both helms. The one on the deck helm was buggered up pretty bad. Replaced that and did another air bleed on each helm. + +I'm speculating that the bad O ring allowed air to enter the deck helm, which then worked it's way up to the higher cabin helm. Does that sound plausible to you? + +I plan to do a lot of fishing this weekend and will let you know if it holds up. If not, I'm not sure where to go from here. Any ideas?" +"Recently doing my pre winter tune up. Removed plugs; upper looked ok, bottom coated with very dry, brown powder (almost like dried up brownie), looks like a lot of rust. Can that much moisture get passed the fuel filter AND the carbureator? I use my outboard almost daily ....I usually tilt it up overnight etc..Is there a possibility that over our wet winter the humidity worked it way up the h2o intake, passed the impeller and condensated in the engine and caused the combustion chamber/pistons to rust? Thanks","hard to read: +1996 Yamaha 6H6 2 cycl 6MSHU S 0311following numbers rubbed off. +Did a little clean up, got rid of old gas and old tank, installed new tank, with new fuel with Quicksilver 2 stroke oil and Stabilizer, new fuel line, new fuel filter. +Should I still add the Yamalube to this mixture? Are they all compatible?","hard to read: +1996 Yamaha 6H6 2 cycl 6MSHU S 0311following numbers rubbed off. +Did a little clean up, got rid of old gas and old tank, installed new tank, with new fuel with Quicksilver 2 stroke oil and Stabilizer, new fuel line, new fuel filter. +Should I still add the Yamalube to this mixture? Are they all compatible?","my take has always been this in the size boat i run...give me two good batteries hooked up as i describe..then maintain those batteries with a trickle charger at home....i use a battery tender which will rub about 50 bucks.. + +http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-Batte...2&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+tender+plus+charger + +if the motor is in good shape you have more starts in it than you will ever use in a day on the water ....if i needed more trolling time than one deep cycle would provide i would go with a 2nd deep cycle.. + +i also replace the start battery every 3 years..." +"Recently doing my pre winter tune up. Removed plugs; upper looked ok, bottom coated with very dry, brown powder (almost like dried up brownie), looks like a lot of rust. Can that much moisture get passed the fuel filter AND the carbureator? I use my outboard almost daily ....I usually tilt it up overnight etc..Is there a possibility that over our wet winter the humidity worked it way up the h2o intake, passed the impeller and condensated in the engine and caused the combustion chamber/pistons to rust? Thanks","jtmeade said: + + + + ...are there two different jets that supply each of the pistons? + +Click to expand... + + +No. You've got 1 carburetor with 2 jets that meter the fuel/air mix for 2 cylinders. Since you're only seeing carbon build up on the bottom cylinder plug, I'm guessing this is because of gravity. Have you pulled carb and jets to clean? + + + + +jtmeade said: + + + +Should I still add the Yamalube to this mixture? Are they all compatible? + +Click to expand... + +Sounds like you already mixed fuel with quicksilver 2 stroke oil. Are you asking if you should add more oil using yamalube 2 stroke oil?? There is no difference between yamalube 2 stroke oil and quicksilver 2 stroke oil, other than the brand name and price. So yes, they are compatible, if this is what your asking. I wouldn't mix different fuel stabilizers together though. Each brand of fuel stabilizer can have its own dose of stabilizer per gallon of fuel. I don't think anything bad will happen. Worst case is you mistakenly add too much stabilizer, in which case your engine is now running on a shock treatment instead of routine treatment.","jtmeade said: + + + + ...are there two different jets that supply each of the pistons? + +Click to expand... + + +No. You've got 1 carburetor with 2 jets that meter the fuel/air mix for 2 cylinders. Since you're only seeing carbon build up on the bottom cylinder plug, I'm guessing this is because of gravity. Have you pulled carb and jets to clean? + + + + +jtmeade said: + + + +Should I still add the Yamalube to this mixture? Are they all compatible? + +Click to expand... + +Sounds like you already mixed fuel with quicksilver 2 stroke oil. Are you asking if you should add more oil using yamalube 2 stroke oil?? There is no difference between yamalube 2 stroke oil and quicksilver 2 stroke oil, other than the brand name and price. So yes, they are compatible, if this is what your asking. I wouldn't mix different fuel stabilizers together though. Each brand of fuel stabilizer can have its own dose of stabilizer per gallon of fuel. I don't think anything bad will happen. Worst case is you mistakenly add too much stabilizer, in which case your engine is now running on a shock treatment instead of routine treatment.","Makomark, + +Thanks for the Great idea!" +"Hello this is a tough one for me to figure out. I have a 1998 C40TLRX with 307 hours. Compression is 129/128/129 (T-B) and it has a clean and strong flow of water through the indicator. +When I run the motor it will idle perfectly, hole shot well and then somewhere between 2700-3500 rpm it has a miss that makes it run just a bit off with intermittent small surges which during the 3-6 second surge it runs perfect. Also if I punch it it responds well and will run up to 5500rpm but still seems a bit off in performance. It has from time to time bogged down with a harsh vibration, when this happens I bring the rpm down to idle speed 7-800 rpm while still in gear. Give it gas and it runs fine but still has a slight miss. At idle or sub 1200rpm, in or out of gear it runs flawlessly. Starts perfect also every time. It seems to also be using a lot of fuel, while I haven't analysed it yet, an educated guess would be about 8 gallons an hour. I have cleaned the tank and filters, drained the carbs, checked the gap on the plugs and replaced the fuel pump. Ran it at night to look for dancing spark and it is good. One thing I did notice, when it started to act up I pumped the primer bulb on the tank and while it did not affect the performance of the engine, the bulb itself seemed soft and easy to pump, not rock hard and feeling full (Your welcome if that comment made you snicker) I did check all the clamps on the fuel lines and they were tight. Any ideas? I have not pulled the carbs yet for a cleaning. wanted input before doing surgery. Thanks. I always do followups for future readers when I ask a question.","BAS said: + + + + I have not pulled the carbs yet for a cleaning. wanted input before doing surgery. + +Click to expand... + + +I'm thinking you've got debris clogging 1 or more jets in 1 or more of your carbs. You've got good compression and good spark. The 3rd out of 3 systems left to troubleshoot is the fuel system. Which ironically, accounts for 90% of all outboard issues. Pull carbs, pull jets, thoroughly clean so when you hold the jet up to the light you can see through it. Verify spec height of floats, as well as test that floats are not damaged (leaking).","BAS said: + + + + I have not pulled the carbs yet for a cleaning. wanted input before doing surgery. + +Click to expand... + + +I'm thinking you've got debris clogging 1 or more jets in 1 or more of your carbs. You've got good compression and good spark. The 3rd out of 3 systems left to troubleshoot is the fuel system. Which ironically, accounts for 90% of all outboard issues. Pull carbs, pull jets, thoroughly clean so when you hold the jet up to the light you can see through it. Verify spec height of floats, as well as test that floats are not damaged (leaking).","Fuel lines are 15 years old also,inspect and or replace them" +"Hello this is a tough one for me to figure out. I have a 1998 C40TLRX with 307 hours. Compression is 129/128/129 (T-B) and it has a clean and strong flow of water through the indicator. +When I run the motor it will idle perfectly, hole shot well and then somewhere between 2700-3500 rpm it has a miss that makes it run just a bit off with intermittent small surges which during the 3-6 second surge it runs perfect. Also if I punch it it responds well and will run up to 5500rpm but still seems a bit off in performance. It has from time to time bogged down with a harsh vibration, when this happens I bring the rpm down to idle speed 7-800 rpm while still in gear. Give it gas and it runs fine but still has a slight miss. At idle or sub 1200rpm, in or out of gear it runs flawlessly. Starts perfect also every time. It seems to also be using a lot of fuel, while I haven't analysed it yet, an educated guess would be about 8 gallons an hour. I have cleaned the tank and filters, drained the carbs, checked the gap on the plugs and replaced the fuel pump. Ran it at night to look for dancing spark and it is good. One thing I did notice, when it started to act up I pumped the primer bulb on the tank and while it did not affect the performance of the engine, the bulb itself seemed soft and easy to pump, not rock hard and feeling full (Your welcome if that comment made you snicker) I did check all the clamps on the fuel lines and they were tight. Any ideas? I have not pulled the carbs yet for a cleaning. wanted input before doing surgery. Thanks. I always do followups for future readers when I ask a question.","Rebuilt the carbs, there was some trash in the #2 HS jet. Put boat in water, runs worse! Lol. So I started trouble shooting and confirmed the proper flow and lack of leaks in the fuel system. Backed mixture screws 1.5 turns as per Yamaha factory manual. Trouble shot the ignition system and everything but the trigger under the flywheel checked out. It has at 227 and 228 ohms,highest spec per cdi is 220. Im assuming this is my issue even though all coils are firing a 3/4"" blue spark. Whatcha think? Also did some searching and cant find a ""trigger"" is this known as a ""pulser"" also? Again this is the unit with the white wires with stripes colored R/G/B. The CDI unit checkes out for resistence anyway. i do have a DVA tester but stopped at the trigger when I saw it was oo spec","Rebuilt the carbs, there was some trash in the #2 HS jet. Put boat in water, runs worse! Lol. So I started trouble shooting and confirmed the proper flow and lack of leaks in the fuel system. Backed mixture screws 1.5 turns as per Yamaha factory manual. Trouble shot the ignition system and everything but the trigger under the flywheel checked out. It has at 227 and 228 ohms,highest spec per cdi is 220. Im assuming this is my issue even though all coils are firing a 3/4"" blue spark. Whatcha think? Also did some searching and cant find a ""trigger"" is this known as a ""pulser"" also? Again this is the unit with the white wires with stripes colored R/G/B. The CDI unit checkes out for resistence anyway. i do have a DVA tester but stopped at the trigger when I saw it was oo spec","When an outboard does not run properly there are 2 steps to start with.-----Compression test and post the numbers.----Then spark test maximum ignition output.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" ( 1 cm ) , yes or no ?" +"Hello this is a tough one for me to figure out. I have a 1998 C40TLRX with 307 hours. Compression is 129/128/129 (T-B) and it has a clean and strong flow of water through the indicator. +When I run the motor it will idle perfectly, hole shot well and then somewhere between 2700-3500 rpm it has a miss that makes it run just a bit off with intermittent small surges which during the 3-6 second surge it runs perfect. Also if I punch it it responds well and will run up to 5500rpm but still seems a bit off in performance. It has from time to time bogged down with a harsh vibration, when this happens I bring the rpm down to idle speed 7-800 rpm while still in gear. Give it gas and it runs fine but still has a slight miss. At idle or sub 1200rpm, in or out of gear it runs flawlessly. Starts perfect also every time. It seems to also be using a lot of fuel, while I haven't analysed it yet, an educated guess would be about 8 gallons an hour. I have cleaned the tank and filters, drained the carbs, checked the gap on the plugs and replaced the fuel pump. Ran it at night to look for dancing spark and it is good. One thing I did notice, when it started to act up I pumped the primer bulb on the tank and while it did not affect the performance of the engine, the bulb itself seemed soft and easy to pump, not rock hard and feeling full (Your welcome if that comment made you snicker) I did check all the clamps on the fuel lines and they were tight. Any ideas? I have not pulled the carbs yet for a cleaning. wanted input before doing surgery. Thanks. I always do followups for future readers when I ask a question.","*Update* +Got my DVA out and tested the system as per spec at crank w/ fresh battery. The CDI and Coil were in spec but the Pulser - ""Trigger"" was firing at 1.45-1.85v on each lead. Spec is 3.0 at cranking which calls for replacement. Will replace and report findings when installed, unfortunately I have to wait for the part so it could be a few days.","*Update* +Got my DVA out and tested the system as per spec at crank w/ fresh battery. The CDI and Coil were in spec but the Pulser - ""Trigger"" was firing at 1.45-1.85v on each lead. Spec is 3.0 at cranking which calls for replacement. Will replace and report findings when installed, unfortunately I have to wait for the part so it could be a few days.","racerone said: + + + + It is a VRO------But post your model # as not all 90 HP motors are the same. + +Click to expand... + + +sorry i ment vro not vos and its model j90tlcem sorry shoulda stated that first... thanks" +"Hello this is a tough one for me to figure out. I have a 1998 C40TLRX with 307 hours. Compression is 129/128/129 (T-B) and it has a clean and strong flow of water through the indicator. +When I run the motor it will idle perfectly, hole shot well and then somewhere between 2700-3500 rpm it has a miss that makes it run just a bit off with intermittent small surges which during the 3-6 second surge it runs perfect. Also if I punch it it responds well and will run up to 5500rpm but still seems a bit off in performance. It has from time to time bogged down with a harsh vibration, when this happens I bring the rpm down to idle speed 7-800 rpm while still in gear. Give it gas and it runs fine but still has a slight miss. At idle or sub 1200rpm, in or out of gear it runs flawlessly. Starts perfect also every time. It seems to also be using a lot of fuel, while I haven't analysed it yet, an educated guess would be about 8 gallons an hour. I have cleaned the tank and filters, drained the carbs, checked the gap on the plugs and replaced the fuel pump. Ran it at night to look for dancing spark and it is good. One thing I did notice, when it started to act up I pumped the primer bulb on the tank and while it did not affect the performance of the engine, the bulb itself seemed soft and easy to pump, not rock hard and feeling full (Your welcome if that comment made you snicker) I did check all the clamps on the fuel lines and they were tight. Any ideas? I have not pulled the carbs yet for a cleaning. wanted input before doing surgery. Thanks. I always do followups for future readers when I ask a question.",Sounds like your getting close did you check/adjust engine sync after installing the carbs? Sync between spark advance and throttle pickup.,Sounds like your getting close did you check/adjust engine sync after installing the carbs? Sync between spark advance and throttle pickup.,"I went through every power connection and ground on the entire starboard side. I ohm'd every section of +/- wire I could. I ended up finding that the main + wire coming from the battery had a lock washer on it and it wasn't fully tight. It wasn't loose but it wasn't tight enough to fully seat the lock washer on the wire's end connector. I tossed that washer, cleaned the terminal and the connector and reassembled with some liquid electrical tape. That seemed to solve the problem." +"Hello this is a tough one for me to figure out. I have a 1998 C40TLRX with 307 hours. Compression is 129/128/129 (T-B) and it has a clean and strong flow of water through the indicator. +When I run the motor it will idle perfectly, hole shot well and then somewhere between 2700-3500 rpm it has a miss that makes it run just a bit off with intermittent small surges which during the 3-6 second surge it runs perfect. Also if I punch it it responds well and will run up to 5500rpm but still seems a bit off in performance. It has from time to time bogged down with a harsh vibration, when this happens I bring the rpm down to idle speed 7-800 rpm while still in gear. Give it gas and it runs fine but still has a slight miss. At idle or sub 1200rpm, in or out of gear it runs flawlessly. Starts perfect also every time. It seems to also be using a lot of fuel, while I haven't analysed it yet, an educated guess would be about 8 gallons an hour. I have cleaned the tank and filters, drained the carbs, checked the gap on the plugs and replaced the fuel pump. Ran it at night to look for dancing spark and it is good. One thing I did notice, when it started to act up I pumped the primer bulb on the tank and while it did not affect the performance of the engine, the bulb itself seemed soft and easy to pump, not rock hard and feeling full (Your welcome if that comment made you snicker) I did check all the clamps on the fuel lines and they were tight. Any ideas? I have not pulled the carbs yet for a cleaning. wanted input before doing surgery. Thanks. I always do followups for future readers when I ask a question.","Yes, and checked to make sure the ""wand"" on the cdi was aligned at bottom and top of throttle","Yes, and checked to make sure the ""wand"" on the cdi was aligned at bottom and top of throttle","For the stain on the no-skid, try some high-cut rubbing compound. A diamond foam pad on a buffer might work, but because of the rough surface a medium bristle brush (like a boat brush) and a lot of elbow grease may be a better way to apply the compound. Certainly worth a try before you consider painting. + +As for the dash panel- I've never heard of anyone making aftermarket panels, you could try contacting Crownline about a replacement. Trying to find a paint match (or even a paint process) that will match will be next to impossible." +"Hello this is a tough one for me to figure out. I have a 1998 C40TLRX with 307 hours. Compression is 129/128/129 (T-B) and it has a clean and strong flow of water through the indicator. +When I run the motor it will idle perfectly, hole shot well and then somewhere between 2700-3500 rpm it has a miss that makes it run just a bit off with intermittent small surges which during the 3-6 second surge it runs perfect. Also if I punch it it responds well and will run up to 5500rpm but still seems a bit off in performance. It has from time to time bogged down with a harsh vibration, when this happens I bring the rpm down to idle speed 7-800 rpm while still in gear. Give it gas and it runs fine but still has a slight miss. At idle or sub 1200rpm, in or out of gear it runs flawlessly. Starts perfect also every time. It seems to also be using a lot of fuel, while I haven't analysed it yet, an educated guess would be about 8 gallons an hour. I have cleaned the tank and filters, drained the carbs, checked the gap on the plugs and replaced the fuel pump. Ran it at night to look for dancing spark and it is good. One thing I did notice, when it started to act up I pumped the primer bulb on the tank and while it did not affect the performance of the engine, the bulb itself seemed soft and easy to pump, not rock hard and feeling full (Your welcome if that comment made you snicker) I did check all the clamps on the fuel lines and they were tight. Any ideas? I have not pulled the carbs yet for a cleaning. wanted input before doing surgery. Thanks. I always do followups for future readers when I ask a question.","Feel pretty confident it is the Pulser. Ran in tank [email protected] 1500rpm and got 3.22v peak on DVA. Spec is 9.0 @ 1500rpm. At lowest throttle speed is 600rpm (+/- 25rpm) got 2.25v. Got 1.45 at crank, spec is 3.0 These #s are out of spec. The only thing that troubles me is all 3 leads (one pulser per cylinder = 3 pulsers), were all within .25-.50 of each other. I would think one would be bad, unless the unit rectifies the output and sends an balanced voltage to the coils on each individual lead. +*edit for clarification*: I dont have a 3 pin adapter so I have to test each lead coming off the tested component individually, in this case the pulser has three pins. each pin was tested for ohm and voltage separately while running, cranking and off","Feel pretty confident it is the Pulser. Ran in tank [email protected] 1500rpm and got 3.22v peak on DVA. Spec is 9.0 @ 1500rpm. At lowest throttle speed is 600rpm (+/- 25rpm) got 2.25v. Got 1.45 at crank, spec is 3.0 These #s are out of spec. The only thing that troubles me is all 3 leads (one pulser per cylinder = 3 pulsers), were all within .25-.50 of each other. I would think one would be bad, unless the unit rectifies the output and sends an balanced voltage to the coils on each individual lead. +*edit for clarification*: I dont have a 3 pin adapter so I have to test each lead coming off the tested component individually, in this case the pulser has three pins. each pin was tested for ohm and voltage separately while running, cranking and off",Pump would be a good place to start. +"40xwt serial 1022854 66TK N + +http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=302341262551 + +I am trying to find out whether this trim tilt that looks the same,, well the mounting points look the same will fit. +Unfortunately they are not nice enough to respond with bolt width,, shaft size and teath etc!! + +There are no Australian Microfische's online or anything on a search to indicate what US model this motor is.. + + + + +The Motor is probably 2006-2007 model + (No later than 2009/2010 from when I purchased as a 1 year old engine).. +the vin seems to be dated after the letter year nomenclature. + +Any help out there????? + +Michael.","A pdf I downloaded from japanske2015.pdf has the xwt as a 2010 only year model +40XWT from :2000 to: 2000 Rings part no: REC66T-11603-00 Piston part no: REC66T-11631-01K +So looks like it must be 2010","A pdf I downloaded from japanske2015.pdf has the xwt as a 2010 only year model +40XWT from :2000 to: 2000 Rings part no: REC66T-11603-00 Piston part no: REC66T-11631-01K +So looks like it must be 2010","Would you please send me a copy of the bulletin. +[email protected] + +Thanks" +"40xwt serial 1022854 66TK N + +http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=302341262551 + +I am trying to find out whether this trim tilt that looks the same,, well the mounting points look the same will fit. +Unfortunately they are not nice enough to respond with bolt width,, shaft size and teath etc!! + +There are no Australian Microfische's online or anything on a search to indicate what US model this motor is.. + + + + +The Motor is probably 2006-2007 model + (No later than 2009/2010 from when I purchased as a 1 year old engine).. +the vin seems to be dated after the letter year nomenclature. + +Any help out there????? + +Michael.","I emailed Yamaha Aust they gave the below response and included parts diagrams from 2005 for a 40XWTL +2 65W-43880-00 MOTOR ASSY 1 being the part No.... That doesn't seem to help and doesn't coincide with US Model part number, so it seems they use different part numbers, maybe the same part?????? +[FONT="]The US model is here so assuming the first two numbers mean nothing????? +67C-43880-00-00, 67C-43880-01, 67C-43880-01-00[/FONT]... + +67C438800000, 67C4388001, 67C438800100 + + +Hi Michael, + +We have attached parts diagram for the trim motor assembly. + +Supersession Part number, Item 2 - Motor Assembly is 65W-43880-01. + +Unfortunately, there is no equivalent year model in the US due to the +introduction of legislated EPA regulations around this period. + +Hope this helps. + +Kind Regards, + +Technical Support Officer (Marine) +YAMAHA MOTOR AUSTRALIA + +67C438800000, 67C4388001, 67C438800100","I emailed Yamaha Aust they gave the below response and included parts diagrams from 2005 for a 40XWTL +2 65W-43880-00 MOTOR ASSY 1 being the part No.... That doesn't seem to help and doesn't coincide with US Model part number, so it seems they use different part numbers, maybe the same part?????? +[FONT="]The US model is here so assuming the first two numbers mean nothing????? +67C-43880-00-00, 67C-43880-01, 67C-43880-01-00[/FONT]... + +67C438800000, 67C4388001, 67C438800100 + + +Hi Michael, + +We have attached parts diagram for the trim motor assembly. + +Supersession Part number, Item 2 - Motor Assembly is 65W-43880-01. + +Unfortunately, there is no equivalent year model in the US due to the +introduction of legislated EPA regulations around this period. + +Hope this helps. + +Kind Regards, + +Technical Support Officer (Marine) +YAMAHA MOTOR AUSTRALIA + +67C438800000, 67C4388001, 67C438800100","Ed ke6bnl said: + + + + From what I can tell a starter and some sort of relay. I am not sure of the flywheel and see a problem if you accidently try to start the motor while in gear I see breakage unless you can disable the start relay in when in gear. not sure how they do than. Also I am not interested in auto choke. + +Click to expand... + +Look at the part number of the F15M flywheel and the part number of the F15E flywheel. If the same part number then no need to change it. If the part numbers are different then the F15M flywheel comes off and the F15 E flywheel goes on. + +Both models show the presence of a choke knob. Both models indicate they use the same carburetor. Why bring up the issue of an auto choke? + +The F15E model indicates the use of a starter button, a starter relay, a start in gear switch, battery cables, etc. + +There is no need to guess. The parts catalogs will tell precisely what is needed to convert an F15M to an F15E configuration." +"40xwt serial 1022854 66TK N + +http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=302341262551 + +I am trying to find out whether this trim tilt that looks the same,, well the mounting points look the same will fit. +Unfortunately they are not nice enough to respond with bolt width,, shaft size and teath etc!! + +There are no Australian Microfische's online or anything on a search to indicate what US model this motor is.. + + + + +The Motor is probably 2006-2007 model + (No later than 2009/2010 from when I purchased as a 1 year old engine).. +the vin seems to be dated after the letter year nomenclature. + +Any help out there????? + +Michael.","If I search for +65W-43880-00. + +on ebay I come up with a number of listings that give interchangeability between the US and Aus model part number. + +Mike.","If I search for +65W-43880-00. + +on ebay I come up with a number of listings that give interchangeability between the US and Aus model part number. + +Mike.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Keep us posted after open water trial. Definitely sounds like a fuel restriction or weak low pressure fuel pump issue. + +Click to expand... + +Gentlemen you are Super! +I did remove the fuel management sender Saturday, and this morning I went and made sure all of the fuel hose clamps were centered on the barb and firm/tight. The one at the input side of the primer bulb was secure, clamp would not move but not tight. Took care of them all and my son, son-in-law took it out for a trial. +No stalling and no hesitation after a 4.5 mile put-put looking for speed bumps. +Got into the River and let it rip. Slowly increased to 5000 RPMs and 32 mph. Increased to near 6000 RPM but only for a minute. We went out with the cowling removed and I'm deaf now, but a good deaf. + + +Getting back to the dock, I did hear the relays reset so no issue there. + + +The primer bulb is a generic (Atwood?). It's behaving itself now, but I may buy a Yamaha one. I had 2 in the past and the failure point was obvious when they suddenly went rock hard. + + +I have one last question. Do these shops have their techs working on commission? Reason why I ask. I found my old car shop did but after they wanted to replace my complete AC on a 1999 Dodge truck for $950. Told him to close the hood. The AC has been working for 2 years now after tapping the clutch. + + +So, lesson learned: come to you guys and discuss before considering a marine shop. + + +Thanks again!" +"40xwt serial 1022854 66TK N + +http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=302341262551 + +I am trying to find out whether this trim tilt that looks the same,, well the mounting points look the same will fit. +Unfortunately they are not nice enough to respond with bolt width,, shaft size and teath etc!! + +There are no Australian Microfische's online or anything on a search to indicate what US model this motor is.. + + + + +The Motor is probably 2006-2007 model + (No later than 2009/2010 from when I purchased as a 1 year old engine).. +the vin seems to be dated after the letter year nomenclature. + +Any help out there????? + +Michael.",hopefully this will help someone else one day for Australian model yamaha outboard trim tilt motor interchangeability alternate compatible aftermarket yamaha trim motor 40hp 30hp,hopefully this will help someone else one day for Australian model yamaha outboard trim tilt motor interchangeability alternate compatible aftermarket yamaha trim motor 40hp 30hp,"You will probably get a better response from the Mercury Outboard Forum. Go to the top right of this page, click on ""Forum Home"", and click on Mercury Outboards." +"I am a bit leery of downloading this manual. I'd prefer a paper one. Is the factory one a lot better than the Chilton's? I can't say I like their car service manuals. +Anyway, know any source for these Yamaha manuals? +Tia","Nucad said: + + + + Is the factory one a lot better than the Chilton's? I can't say I like their car service manuals + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, yamaha specific service manual is far more detailed. I recon it would be hard to come by a paper yamaha service manual, as like most things these days it's all become digital. What is your engine model number and year?","Nucad said: + + + + Is the factory one a lot better than the Chilton's? I can't say I like their car service manuals + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, yamaha specific service manual is far more detailed. I recon it would be hard to come by a paper yamaha service manual, as like most things these days it's all become digital. What is your engine model number and year?","Reply back with complete model number. + +Speed (mph) is a poor reference tool to use when troubleshooting. Simply because speed can vary to a great degree caused by numerous variables. Rpms is a more valued tool you'll want to focus on. 15mph does sound very low for a 200hp. However, speed is relative to the load the engine is pushing. For all I know your pontoon weighs 2 tons. + +So, how many rpms are you seeing at WOT? I believe the spec rpm range for your engine at WOT is 4500-5500. I would guess from what little you've detailed that 15mph is not producing 5500. But I prefer not to guess. + +90% of the time when an outboard is struggling it's related to the fuel system....whether its fuel, filters, hoses, primer bulb, carbs, etc. So I'd start troubleshooting there." +"I am a bit leery of downloading this manual. I'd prefer a paper one. Is the factory one a lot better than the Chilton's? I can't say I like their car service manuals. +Anyway, know any source for these Yamaha manuals? +Tia",I am not near the boat for a couple of weeks. I believe it is a 1992 Pro V 150 HP,I am not near the boat for a couple of weeks. I believe it is a 1992 Pro V 150 HP,Trailer axles are set up various ways. Some have a race that is pressed into the hub and the bearings inner race is integral to the bearing carrier and is pressed onto the spindle. Other bearing setups have a fully integrated bearing that has both the inner and outer race included and the whole bearing mechanism is pressed into the hub. You obviously have something wrong there. Are you absolutely sure you have the right size bearing? Did you make sure that the front and rear bearings (or races) were pressed into the hub completely until they hit the stopping ridge? Have you pulled the bearings and made sure it is in tact? +"I am a bit leery of downloading this manual. I'd prefer a paper one. Is the factory one a lot better than the Chilton's? I can't say I like their car service manuals. +Anyway, know any source for these Yamaha manuals? +Tia","Below is the link to the service manual for a 1992 P150TLRQ (ProV150Q): + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...992-yamaha-115q-130q-150q-175q-200q-225q/file","Below is the link to the service manual for a 1992 P150TLRQ (ProV150Q): + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...992-yamaha-115q-130q-150q-175q-200q-225q/file","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Dunno your model year....but most likely spec rpm range at WOT is 4500-5500. As boscoe stated, your over propped w/21"". But the 17"" will prob put you out of range. I have a 17' fiber cc w/'98 115hp. I also had a 21"" overprop issue. Trialed a 17""...high 5k. Then trialed 18"" merc ss that put me right at top end rpm range. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. I have tried the 17 and it’s seems decent for cruising. The 21 was overkill but now the 17 seems decent." +"I am a bit leery of downloading this manual. I'd prefer a paper one. Is the factory one a lot better than the Chilton's? I can't say I like their car service manuals. +Anyway, know any source for these Yamaha manuals? +Tia",Hey Thanks for that link. I guess I'll get both manuals.,Hey Thanks for that link. I guess I'll get both manuals.,"Welcome to the wonderful world of boating. Of course, the only thing that works on an old boat is its owner."" + +Generally, you need to get on line and educate yourself. Several good sites include BoatUS (you should become a member and subscribe to their towing service) West Marine, and Jamestown Distributors. I'm sure others on this thread will have other recommendations. + +Contact Seasport Boats at http://www.seasportboats.com/ and ask for an Owners Manual and Maintenance Manual for your boat. + +You can usually find a manual on the engine and outdrive on line. + +You should take a Boaters Safety Course. In many states it is now mandatory. BoatUS provides one online and it is usually accepted by most states. + +The good news is that the Volvo Penta 5.7 is an excellent engine. The bad news is that it requires regular maintenance and care. I assume that you also have a Volvo outdrive - the part on the outside of the transom with the prop attached. Those are typically a very good outdrives. The other bad news is that replacement parts for the Volvo equipment is quite expensive compared to other manufacturers. The weakness in all outdrives is the large hose that pulls water up through the outdrive into the engine to cool it and the large exhaust hose which allows exhaust gases to escape through the bottom of the outdrive. If either breaks while at sea it can sink your boat. They must be inspected regularly and changed out if it has been compromised in any way. + +Battery switch - This is the normal setup: Off = both batteries shut off. 1=house battery for running all the stuff on the boat not related to the engine (e.g. running lights, cabin fans, cabin lights, and so forth.) 2=starting battery for starting the engine and running the engine electronics, such as the tilt/trim of the outdrive. Both = Both batteries are connected together. When running the boat, if the switch is in the ""both"" position while the engine is running, then the alternator will be charging both batteries. + +Blower switch - ALWAYS run the blowers a full 2 minutes before starting the engine. That is designed to get any fuel vapors out of the bilge before starting. If you fail to do that and even have a very small fuel leak on the engine or fuel line, that could cause a disastrous explosion. + +Pumps - most boats of that size may have two or three pumps. The most critical one will be the bilge pump, which has two switches. Usually there is one on the console - that will often be marked ""Bilge."" The other switch is a float switch in the bilge near the pump. If it ""floats"" due to excess water in the bilge, it turns on the bilge pump automatically. Another pump your boat may have is a raw rater pump that allows you to draw in water the boat is floating in to wash down the deck. If your boat is so equipped, it will have an outlet on the deck for a garden hose to fit to. This pump will typically be a ""demand"" pump whereby it will start to pump when the hose is opened up. The third pump you may have is a freshwater pump. This is also typically a demand pump that will pump water from a freshwater tank on the boat to operate a sink, shower, or commode. + +Bottom line - learn much more about your boat before taking it out. Take that boating safety course. Make sure that you always have a good operational VHF radio on board to call for help if you need it and to talk to other boaters while on the water. Get to know other experienced boaters and learn from them. Above all, be safe and don't do stupid things." +Just removed the cover screws for a 704 remote control. They were frozen so heads are screwed up and need replacement. I can probably get them locally if I know the size. Any help out there? Schematics don't seem to share that info.,"Are you referring to #64 in the parts blow out here: +http://www.marineengine.com/parts/yamaha-outboard-parts/1988/115/115ETLG/620304430026 + + +If so, I recon these 4 screws are identical for all yamaha remote controls. Use the part number you see for #64 and call a yamaha parts distributor. This part number has most likely been superseded, but they'll have the updated part #.","Are you referring to #64 in the parts blow out here: +http://www.marineengine.com/parts/yamaha-outboard-parts/1988/115/115ETLG/620304430026 + + +If so, I recon these 4 screws are identical for all yamaha remote controls. Use the part number you see for #64 and call a yamaha parts distributor. This part number has most likely been superseded, but they'll have the updated part #.","Grinder said: + + + + Hello everyone! + +After I've been searching for this manual for over a week now, I came over this forum in one of my searches. I've just registered as a user on this forum, and this is my first post. + + + + + +I've just bought a used Skanti VHF 3000, Type ""TRP 3024"". Unfortunately this VHF came without cables and without a manual. Something the seller didn't have. I'm looking for a manual to this VHF or someone who has knowledge on how I should wire it up. + + + + + + +I have the power cable to the VHF, as you can see on the picture. And I have half the cable that goes from REMOTE and to the handset. Unfortunately there is only a plug in one end of the cable, so I would need to find me a new plug. The plug would probably be OK to find, but I don't know the configuration of the 7 wires. + + + + + + +I'm also missing both the plug and the cable from ""Auxilliary"". According to the seller, this cable should go to the external speaker. The plug should be OK to get, but then I'm still missing the wiring configuration. + + + + + + +As you can see on the picture above, there is two sockets on the handset. One market with ""in"" and one with ""out"". I guess the cable from ""remote"" on the main unit should go to the ""in"" on the handset. Do anyone know what the ""out"" socket is for? + +If anyone could help me with some guidelines, wiring diagrams or manuals I would appreciate it very much + +Click to expand... + +I think I may have what you are looking for. I have a manual and “connecting transceiver unit and control unit” instructions." +"I recently bought an outboard powered ski boat (1992 Mastercraft Barefoot 200). It has two large deep cycle batteries in the back. (Normally they have 1 battery) The extra weight is adding to the size of the wake and my local marina says that deep cycle batteries will wear out the stator on my outboard. So I am thinking of going to a new single battery come Spring. The size and weight of Lithium batteries has me curious that I might be able to fit one under the passenger seat, which would help move the weight forward in the boat. How big and powerful a battery does a Pro V need? Anyone have experience with Lithium In batteries in a marine application? Suggestions appreciated.","Nucad said: + + + + The extra weight is adding to the size of the wake and my local marina says that deep cycle batteries will wear out the stator on my outboard. + +Click to expand... + + +There's a lot more to it than your marina making this ^^^^ statement. Your engines regulator/rectifier prevents the deep cycle battery from gaining a charge >14+volts. Meaning, as you're running the engine the stator supplies charge back to the battery but never more to burn out stator. Your marina is referring to engines without the capability of regulating charge. + +A deep cycle battery can be used for cranking the engine, so long as this battery is isolated from all other loads. You don't want to regularly discharge a deep cycle more than 20%-50% of total volt capacity, as it's cycle lifetime will decrease. Also, deep cycle batteries will have less cranking amps compared to typical starting battery of the same size. Deep cycle batteries are intended to be recharged over a extended period of time (6-12 hours), verses being topped off with charge by quick charging. + +If you're running any other electronics on your boat, such as navigation lights, stereo, etc., these loads should be isolated to their own house battery. This application is best for deep cycle batteries. So you could do away with 1 of the 2 deep cycle batteries, buy a typical marine cranking battery, run engine load off cranking battery, and all other electronics off deep cycle. + +I understand the premise of shifting weight forward to lessen the wake, but the weight of 1 battery will have very little effect on a 20ft boat, if any. Typical marine battery weighs 40-50lbs. Shifting both batteries forward would have the effect you seek. But I would not recommend going to only 1 battery IF you are running accessory electronics. Not a good idea, though many do it. Ironically, these are the same boaters who find themselves stranded because of a dead cranking battery.","Nucad said: + + + + The extra weight is adding to the size of the wake and my local marina says that deep cycle batteries will wear out the stator on my outboard. + +Click to expand... + + +There's a lot more to it than your marina making this ^^^^ statement. Your engines regulator/rectifier prevents the deep cycle battery from gaining a charge >14+volts. Meaning, as you're running the engine the stator supplies charge back to the battery but never more to burn out stator. Your marina is referring to engines without the capability of regulating charge. + +A deep cycle battery can be used for cranking the engine, so long as this battery is isolated from all other loads. You don't want to regularly discharge a deep cycle more than 20%-50% of total volt capacity, as it's cycle lifetime will decrease. Also, deep cycle batteries will have less cranking amps compared to typical starting battery of the same size. Deep cycle batteries are intended to be recharged over a extended period of time (6-12 hours), verses being topped off with charge by quick charging. + +If you're running any other electronics on your boat, such as navigation lights, stereo, etc., these loads should be isolated to their own house battery. This application is best for deep cycle batteries. So you could do away with 1 of the 2 deep cycle batteries, buy a typical marine cranking battery, run engine load off cranking battery, and all other electronics off deep cycle. + +I understand the premise of shifting weight forward to lessen the wake, but the weight of 1 battery will have very little effect on a 20ft boat, if any. Typical marine battery weighs 40-50lbs. Shifting both batteries forward would have the effect you seek. But I would not recommend going to only 1 battery IF you are running accessory electronics. Not a good idea, though many do it. Ironically, these are the same boaters who find themselves stranded because of a dead cranking battery.",The F generally means a 4 stroke model.------------------Post model number ! +"I recently bought an outboard powered ski boat (1992 Mastercraft Barefoot 200). It has two large deep cycle batteries in the back. (Normally they have 1 battery) The extra weight is adding to the size of the wake and my local marina says that deep cycle batteries will wear out the stator on my outboard. So I am thinking of going to a new single battery come Spring. The size and weight of Lithium batteries has me curious that I might be able to fit one under the passenger seat, which would help move the weight forward in the boat. How big and powerful a battery does a Pro V need? Anyone have experience with Lithium In batteries in a marine application? Suggestions appreciated.",Thanks for the detailed reply. I guess you would have to charge the deep cycle battery used for electronics with an AC battery charger? I have a Lowrance HDS 7 GPS. Wonder if the Yamaha puts out enough amps for that?,Thanks for the detailed reply. I guess you would have to charge the deep cycle battery used for electronics with an AC battery charger? I have a Lowrance HDS 7 GPS. Wonder if the Yamaha puts out enough amps for that?,Have you load tested the battery yet? +"I recently bought an outboard powered ski boat (1992 Mastercraft Barefoot 200). It has two large deep cycle batteries in the back. (Normally they have 1 battery) The extra weight is adding to the size of the wake and my local marina says that deep cycle batteries will wear out the stator on my outboard. So I am thinking of going to a new single battery come Spring. The size and weight of Lithium batteries has me curious that I might be able to fit one under the passenger seat, which would help move the weight forward in the boat. How big and powerful a battery does a Pro V need? Anyone have experience with Lithium In batteries in a marine application? Suggestions appreciated.","Nucad said: + + + + Thanks for the detailed reply. I guess you would have to charge the deep cycle battery used for electronics with an AC battery charger? I have a Lowrance HDS 7 GPS. Wonder if the Yamaha puts out enough amps for that? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, accessory batteries need to be recharged by a 12v AC battery charger. I'm not sure what the amperage draw is for your GPS, but if it's paired with the cranking battery you should be fine. However, if you're running the GPS while the engine is off then you're drawing amps from the battery that are not being replaced. Depending for how long the engine is off, there is chance you won't have enough cranking amps to start engine. That's why I previously suggested to isolate the engine to 1 battery, accessory battery for all other electronics. If the engine does start, you'll need to run the engine for ""X"" amount of time in order to recharge ""X"" amount of amps.","Nucad said: + + + + Thanks for the detailed reply. I guess you would have to charge the deep cycle battery used for electronics with an AC battery charger? I have a Lowrance HDS 7 GPS. Wonder if the Yamaha puts out enough amps for that? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, accessory batteries need to be recharged by a 12v AC battery charger. I'm not sure what the amperage draw is for your GPS, but if it's paired with the cranking battery you should be fine. However, if you're running the GPS while the engine is off then you're drawing amps from the battery that are not being replaced. Depending for how long the engine is off, there is chance you won't have enough cranking amps to start engine. That's why I previously suggested to isolate the engine to 1 battery, accessory battery for all other electronics. If the engine does start, you'll need to run the engine for ""X"" amount of time in order to recharge ""X"" amount of amps.","Put the boat on the trailer and drop the lower unit. You can run it on the flush hose and see if the noise is still there... May be the mid shaft support bushing.... + +HPDI does drop two cylinders below 16-1800 rpm." +cannot advance spark plug into into top cylinder due to damaged thread at entrance to cylinder. what to do?,Cylinder hole needs to be rethreaded,Cylinder hole needs to be rethreaded,check battery connections and make sure battery is fully charged... +"I have 2000 185 Scout. I am having problems with engine running over 3900 RPM. When it goes over 3900 the throttle goes in and out and will not speed up. + +Little history I bought the boat from my brother who did not run it much so gas was probably old. When I go the boat it would not idle good and not run full throttle, After replacing the parts below it idles great but will not run good or constant over 3900 RPM + +1. I have ran gas down and refilled with non ethanol premium gas . +2. Installed new plugs and wires +3. Cleaned carburetor +4. Fuel Filter +5. Fuel Pump +6. I have hooked a portable tank to engine ran it and still does it +7. New gas bulb on engine gas line. + + + I am running out of options I have heard it could be electrical, could be a stater, could need needle values adjusted?","Did your carb cleaning include the removal of the 6 jets in both carbs (12 jets)? These jets can easily become clogged with debris, especially when old fuel has remained in fuel system. The orifice of each jet needs to be completely clear so if you hold it up to the light you can see through it. If you did not pull jets, you would experience the same engine issues when using a portable tank. + +Fyi, premium gas is a waste of money. The octane recommended for your engine is 87. Filling tank with octane above 87 burns your money cause your engine will not burn the higher octane. + +If you have pulled jets and cleaned, replaced filter, verified fuel pump is functioning correctly, then I'd next look at cylinder compression. This is assuming you've verified good spark after replacing the 4 plugs. You could only be firing on 3 of 4.","Did your carb cleaning include the removal of the 6 jets in both carbs (12 jets)? These jets can easily become clogged with debris, especially when old fuel has remained in fuel system. The orifice of each jet needs to be completely clear so if you hold it up to the light you can see through it. If you did not pull jets, you would experience the same engine issues when using a portable tank. + +Fyi, premium gas is a waste of money. The octane recommended for your engine is 87. Filling tank with octane above 87 burns your money cause your engine will not burn the higher octane. + +If you have pulled jets and cleaned, replaced filter, verified fuel pump is functioning correctly, then I'd next look at cylinder compression. This is assuming you've verified good spark after replacing the 4 plugs. You could only be firing on 3 of 4.","There is no difference ----lower unit on or off.-----Other than bigger "" critters "" can crawl in to build a home.------You might want to block it off with a hefty piece of plastic / plywood cover." +"Hi fellow boaters + +The identification plate on my 30hp yamaha outboard is missing. + +Does anyone know how i can retrieve the serial number? + +The model of the engine is 30HMH also known as CV30 in Australia. + +Thanks in advance +Elias","Are you looking for a replacement data label or just help in trying to determine the ID for your motor? + +In the US the process for the former is to take the motor to a Yamaha dealer and to provide him with records that indicate the precise identity of the motor in question and that you are the lawful owner. He will then contact Yamaha USA who in turn will contact Yamaha Japan for a replacement ID label. Perhaps there is a similar process in Australia. + +Now if you are just trying to verify the identity of your motor, look on the block, usually in the vicinity of the start motor, for the alternate ID label. It will be round and black. There will be a white bar through the middle and in that white bar there will be the serial numbers. What are they?","Are you looking for a replacement data label or just help in trying to determine the ID for your motor? + +In the US the process for the former is to take the motor to a Yamaha dealer and to provide him with records that indicate the precise identity of the motor in question and that you are the lawful owner. He will then contact Yamaha USA who in turn will contact Yamaha Japan for a replacement ID label. Perhaps there is a similar process in Australia. + +Now if you are just trying to verify the identity of your motor, look on the block, usually in the vicinity of the start motor, for the alternate ID label. It will be round and black. There will be a white bar through the middle and in that white bar there will be the serial numbers. What are they?","papyson said: + + + +if your vent is coming out of the top of the tank then the tank will be full before it leaks gas thru the vent...same as before...however if you fill an extension above the tank(like your new fuel fill) then when you top off the tank and fill the extension you may get some leak from the vent if the end of the vent tube is below the tank...just dont overfill and you should be ok... + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Exactly,.... By itself, movin' the fuel fill doesn't effect the vent,..." +"Hi fellow boaters + +The identification plate on my 30hp yamaha outboard is missing. + +Does anyone know how i can retrieve the serial number? + +The model of the engine is 30HMH also known as CV30 in Australia. + +Thanks in advance +Elias","hi Boscoe +I know its an old post but i have the same situation and in Australia. +I found the sticker that says 501415 are you able to tell me the year/ model number thanks","hi Boscoe +I know its an old post but i have the same situation and in Australia. +I found the sticker that says 501415 are you able to tell me the year/ model number thanks","My opinion is that the diesel is the way to go. Safety is the first reason and second a diesel is all sealed up basically. It's injected and needs no spark. Fuel lasts indefinitely and a few additives along the way don't hurt. + +In the agricultural arena, having had diesel and gas tractors over the years, diesels have few problems and are extremely reliable. Besides the torque advantage usually. Additionally a diesel will take a lot of abuse as long as you keep the fuel clean, but that's why they have fuel filters and water separators....diesels don't like water in the fuel but it's no biggie to keep it out. + +My 2c, +Mark" +"Hello guys, + +Can you tell me what the instrument is indicating? I don't have the manual for this instrument, so I cannot check what the symbols mean. However I shot a video, so maybe you can clarify this for me! The trim sensor is broken, so that's why it is all the way up. But I need help to identify the bottom symbols. + +https://youtu.be/x7CWiIPXAhE","Sarrre said: + + + + Hello guys, + +Can you tell me what the instrument is indicating? I don't have the manual for this instrument, so I cannot check what the symbols mean. However I shot a video, so maybe you can clarify this for me! The trim sensor is broken, so that's why it is all the way up. But I need help to identify the bottom symbols. + +https://youtu.be/x7CWiIPXAhE + +Click to expand... + + + +The 3 symbols at bottom of the tach LCD are oil level indicators. 3 solid bars under each symbol indicates good oil level in both main engine tank and reserve tank. 1 solid bar under far left symbol and 1 blinking bar under middle symbol indicates the oil level in the reserve tank is low. This is the alert you are seeing. Fill your reserve tank with oil and you'll then see 3 solid bars. See the chart below for complete details.","Sarrre said: + + + + Hello guys, + +Can you tell me what the instrument is indicating? I don't have the manual for this instrument, so I cannot check what the symbols mean. However I shot a video, so maybe you can clarify this for me! The trim sensor is broken, so that's why it is all the way up. But I need help to identify the bottom symbols. + +https://youtu.be/x7CWiIPXAhE + +Click to expand... + + + +The 3 symbols at bottom of the tach LCD are oil level indicators. 3 solid bars under each symbol indicates good oil level in both main engine tank and reserve tank. 1 solid bar under far left symbol and 1 blinking bar under middle symbol indicates the oil level in the reserve tank is low. This is the alert you are seeing. Fill your reserve tank with oil and you'll then see 3 solid bars. See the chart below for complete details.","The 5.0 that OMC was using was 350 HP and generally well received if maintained. The 330 I rebuilt using Mercury marine parts. Had it dynoed last year and came out at 328HP. Your right the I-6 at 165 hp are likely what was in it both engines are in really rough condition. one the block has 2 cracks and is total junk the other I have not gone too far with but seems also not to be really worth the effort since neither has out drives attached. Got the hull for $650.00. First Bertrum for me, I have mainly worked on Mako's, also first O/I repower but I have done straight inboards on several boats Trojan being the most recent. Was trying not to under power or overstress a single on a heavy boat. Yes, this is a freshwater cooled engine." +"Hello guys, + +Can you tell me what the instrument is indicating? I don't have the manual for this instrument, so I cannot check what the symbols mean. However I shot a video, so maybe you can clarify this for me! The trim sensor is broken, so that's why it is all the way up. But I need help to identify the bottom symbols. + +https://youtu.be/x7CWiIPXAhE","Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. However I have a 4-stroke, so I don't have any oil tanks except the motor oil. +I switched engine from a Yamaha V4 2-stroke 130 hp to a Yamaha 115 hp 4-stroke. I changed the instruments and cable betwen instruments and engine, and also the cable between the remote and instruments. However I have the same remote control 703. But I think it is the same remote control for 2-stroke and 4-stroke, right? It is the 10 pin from the remote control to the engine, and it fits both engines.","Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. However I have a 4-stroke, so I don't have any oil tanks except the motor oil. +I switched engine from a Yamaha V4 2-stroke 130 hp to a Yamaha 115 hp 4-stroke. I changed the instruments and cable betwen instruments and engine, and also the cable between the remote and instruments. However I have the same remote control 703. But I think it is the same remote control for 2-stroke and 4-stroke, right? It is the 10 pin from the remote control to the engine, and it fits both engines.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + When you discovered the 1 clogged jet did you at that time pull and clean the other jets? Makes sense that if 1 is clogged so too others cud be. + +If your seeing small amount of oil in carb throat after motor was stored tilted up this isnt too much for concern. Excessive amount indicates one or more of the oil feed tubes has bad one-way valve. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, all 3 carbs were pulled and cleaned at that point. I would consider it a small amount of oil in carbs. + +I replaced the fuel pump this afternoon. The old one had a huge hole in the diaphragm. + +It runs MUCH better now. Got right up on plane. 5700RPM wide open throttle. + +But its still not perfect. It will only run at 5700 for a few seconds, before going back down to 5000 or lower. If I let off the throttle for a few seconds I can get it back to 5700. But again, that only lasts a few seconds. Feels like it can’t get fuel fast enough. + +Fuel line is new. Filters are new. Fuel pump is new. Carbs were just cleaned. + +That leaves the tank and the internal fuel lines. The tank is portable. + + +Does this sound like the carb screws are just out of wack? What about a coil pack working intermittently? Light up spark tester shows spark. + +Thanks for the help" +"Hello guys, + +Can you tell me what the instrument is indicating? I don't have the manual for this instrument, so I cannot check what the symbols mean. However I shot a video, so maybe you can clarify this for me! The trim sensor is broken, so that's why it is all the way up. But I need help to identify the bottom symbols. + +https://youtu.be/x7CWiIPXAhE","Sarrre said: + + + + Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. However I have a 4-stroke, so I don't have any oil tanks except the motor oil. +I switched engine from a Yamaha V4 2-stroke 130 hp to a Yamaha 115 hp 4-stroke. I changed the instruments and cable betwen instruments and engine, and also the cable between the remote and instruments. However I have the same remote control 703. But I think it is the same remote control for 2-stroke and 4-stroke, right? It is the 10 pin from the remote control to the engine, and it fits both engines. + +Click to expand... + + +Gotcha. And yes, the 703 remote control can be used with 4 strokes. Yam 4 stroke outboards have the ability to monitor oil pressure. In fact these engines do not monitor oil levels, as the 2 strokes do. The tach your using is the older round multifunction digital tach. This tach does not function to monitor oil pressure, and more importantly, does not activate the low oil pressure alarm. When activated, the engine goes into limp mode (rpm reduction below 2000). + +Take a look at this tach installation guide, page 1. Back of the tach under the small rubber grommet you'll see a set of 3 small switches. When you changed from 2 stroke to 4 stroke did you change the position of switch #3? Also, if the engine is a 2005 or newer, of the two 4 prong square harnesses located engine side, only the male harness is connected. You cap off the unused female harness. If you've connected both this might be the reason the tach is receiving a low oil level signal. +http://www.mbcboats.com/perfbull/YamahaMFGaugeKitInstall.pdf","Sarrre said: + + + + Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. However I have a 4-stroke, so I don't have any oil tanks except the motor oil. +I switched engine from a Yamaha V4 2-stroke 130 hp to a Yamaha 115 hp 4-stroke. I changed the instruments and cable betwen instruments and engine, and also the cable between the remote and instruments. However I have the same remote control 703. But I think it is the same remote control for 2-stroke and 4-stroke, right? It is the 10 pin from the remote control to the engine, and it fits both engines. + +Click to expand... + + +Gotcha. And yes, the 703 remote control can be used with 4 strokes. Yam 4 stroke outboards have the ability to monitor oil pressure. In fact these engines do not monitor oil levels, as the 2 strokes do. The tach your using is the older round multifunction digital tach. This tach does not function to monitor oil pressure, and more importantly, does not activate the low oil pressure alarm. When activated, the engine goes into limp mode (rpm reduction below 2000). + +Take a look at this tach installation guide, page 1. Back of the tach under the small rubber grommet you'll see a set of 3 small switches. When you changed from 2 stroke to 4 stroke did you change the position of switch #3? Also, if the engine is a 2005 or newer, of the two 4 prong square harnesses located engine side, only the male harness is connected. You cap off the unused female harness. If you've connected both this might be the reason the tach is receiving a low oil level signal. +http://www.mbcboats.com/perfbull/YamahaMFGaugeKitInstall.pdf","I've never tried yanking on the flywheel vertically, but I would guess no. Maybe that's why the stator coils got damaged. Tough one. + +btw, have you turned the wheel by hand with the lower unit removed? Forgot to ask that before just to rule that out." +"Hello guys, + +Can you tell me what the instrument is indicating? I don't have the manual for this instrument, so I cannot check what the symbols mean. However I shot a video, so maybe you can clarify this for me! The trim sensor is broken, so that's why it is all the way up. But I need help to identify the bottom symbols. + +https://youtu.be/x7CWiIPXAhE","Continuing with my last...if your tach does not have the rubber grommet to access the 3 dip switches, then that particular model of tach cannot monitor oil pressure.","Continuing with my last...if your tach does not have the rubber grommet to access the 3 dip switches, then that particular model of tach cannot monitor oil pressure.","alice said: + + + + maybe you need a new fuel filter, but what do you mean by the bulb doesn't get hard? you're talking about the primer bulb? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes - the primer bulb. I changed the fuel filter as well." +"Hello guys, + +Can you tell me what the instrument is indicating? I don't have the manual for this instrument, so I cannot check what the symbols mean. However I shot a video, so maybe you can clarify this for me! The trim sensor is broken, so that's why it is all the way up. But I need help to identify the bottom symbols. + +https://youtu.be/x7CWiIPXAhE","Thank you so much dude!!! +I just flipped the 3rd switch and now the warnings are gone!","Thank you so much dude!!! +I just flipped the 3rd switch and now the warnings are gone!","I don't know, sorry. I've only seen diagrams like this: + + +https://imgur.com/a/WyujgM8 + + +But I think if you saw air bubbles, then it probably just wasn't bled properly. That procedure is in the service manual. You can probably get it from manualslib dot com.. pretty sure I've seen the F200/250 manual there." +"Hello guys, + +Can you tell me what the instrument is indicating? I don't have the manual for this instrument, so I cannot check what the symbols mean. However I shot a video, so maybe you can clarify this for me! The trim sensor is broken, so that's why it is all the way up. But I need help to identify the bottom symbols. + +https://youtu.be/x7CWiIPXAhE","Sarrre said: + + + + Thank you so much dude!!! +I just flipped the 3rd switch and now the warnings are gone! + +Click to expand... + + +Great news. So now the tach is correctly configured, if low oil pressure is detected the left bar will flash, fyi.","Sarrre said: + + + + Thank you so much dude!!! +I just flipped the 3rd switch and now the warnings are gone! + +Click to expand... + + +Great news. So now the tach is correctly configured, if low oil pressure is detected the left bar will flash, fyi.",1.5 to 2 is fine.... This adjustment is only for idle. Not going to make the engine run different on the top end. +"I'm in the market for a Mastercraft Barefoot 200. Originally these were equipped with carbed Yamaha 200 HP motors. They built them from 91 to 95. One I am considering has a 2006 V Max 3.3 litre. Another has a carbed 150 HP (not sure the year model yet). The third (ANd least interested in) has a 1984 Yamaha 200. +I don't really need the top end on this boat, as it will be used to pull 1 intermediate skier at speeds well below any of these motors capabilities. I am assuming the 150 weighs the same as the original 200. I have a friend with a 225 2007 Two stroke on his and the extra weight has caused some spray issues. + +What is your opinion of the 150 Yamahas of the mid 90's? Thanks in advance.","The 150hp 2-strokes weight the same as the 200hp motors as far as I remember, they were pretty much the same motor ....","The 150hp 2-strokes weight the same as the 200hp motors as far as I remember, they were pretty much the same motor ....",Make sure when you are trying to prime the ball that you have the engine side pointed straight up in the air at least until you start feeling fuel moving through the ball. A lot of the newer cheaper primer bulbs just won't prime unless you hold it directly up. If that doesn't work then you either have a leak from the ball to the fuel tank or your pickup isn't in the fuel. If it has a remote tank check the connection on the tank itself for leaks. Any leak from the tank to the bulb will not allow it to prime. +"I'm in the market for a Mastercraft Barefoot 200. Originally these were equipped with carbed Yamaha 200 HP motors. They built them from 91 to 95. One I am considering has a 2006 V Max 3.3 litre. Another has a carbed 150 HP (not sure the year model yet). The third (ANd least interested in) has a 1984 Yamaha 200. +I don't really need the top end on this boat, as it will be used to pull 1 intermediate skier at speeds well below any of these motors capabilities. I am assuming the 150 weighs the same as the original 200. I have a friend with a 225 2007 Two stroke on his and the extra weight has caused some spray issues. + +What is your opinion of the 150 Yamahas of the mid 90's? Thanks in advance.","deejaycee_2000 said: + + + + The 150hp 2-strokes weight the same as the 200hp motors as far as I remember, they were pretty much the same motor .... + +Click to expand... + + +Going to check one tomorrow. Not sure I can get it in the marina for inspection. Will bring a compression gauge. Anything I have to know to perform the test? Wide open throttle, fresh battery? Do you disable the ignition to prevent a meltdown? +What numbers are ideal? One I recently looked at had 120 across the board. +Tia","deejaycee_2000 said: + + + + The 150hp 2-strokes weight the same as the 200hp motors as far as I remember, they were pretty much the same motor .... + +Click to expand... + + +Going to check one tomorrow. Not sure I can get it in the marina for inspection. Will bring a compression gauge. Anything I have to know to perform the test? Wide open throttle, fresh battery? Do you disable the ignition to prevent a meltdown? +What numbers are ideal? One I recently looked at had 120 across the board. +Tia","An FT9.9EXK used a 6G8-45301-01-00 carburetor. That carburetor has been replaced by a -09-00 that is available. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/parts.html?client=multipart&SKUs=6G8-14301-09-00+" +"I'm in the market for a Mastercraft Barefoot 200. Originally these were equipped with carbed Yamaha 200 HP motors. They built them from 91 to 95. One I am considering has a 2006 V Max 3.3 litre. Another has a carbed 150 HP (not sure the year model yet). The third (ANd least interested in) has a 1984 Yamaha 200. +I don't really need the top end on this boat, as it will be used to pull 1 intermediate skier at speeds well below any of these motors capabilities. I am assuming the 150 weighs the same as the original 200. I have a friend with a 225 2007 Two stroke on his and the extra weight has caused some spray issues. + +What is your opinion of the 150 Yamahas of the mid 90's? Thanks in advance.","You just pull the kill switch so the engine don't fire and start .... 120 is very good yes, as long as they are all very close to one another it is all good ....","You just pull the kill switch so the engine don't fire and start .... 120 is very good yes, as long as they are all very close to one another it is all good ....","Go to boatinfo library and find your manual. The wiring from the engine to the helm is pretty standard you have senders, ignition hot and ground and start. Everything should be color coded and straight forward." +"I'm in the market for a Mastercraft Barefoot 200. Originally these were equipped with carbed Yamaha 200 HP motors. They built them from 91 to 95. One I am considering has a 2006 V Max 3.3 litre. Another has a carbed 150 HP (not sure the year model yet). The third (ANd least interested in) has a 1984 Yamaha 200. +I don't really need the top end on this boat, as it will be used to pull 1 intermediate skier at speeds well below any of these motors capabilities. I am assuming the 150 weighs the same as the original 200. I have a friend with a 225 2007 Two stroke on his and the extra weight has caused some spray issues. + +What is your opinion of the 150 Yamahas of the mid 90's? Thanks in advance.","Optimally the engine would be warm for the test. If there is a way to run it on muffs for 5-10 minutes prior to the test that would be great but that's not always possible. Engine hours... Who knows and sometimes a 2-stroke with low hours can present more probs than one with higher hours as 2-strokes MUST BE RUN and not allowed to sit. I think if you're in the 100-120 PSI range (120 is fantastic) tested with kill switch activated and throttle wide open you're looking good. The key is each cylinder's compression should be within the same 10% range so say 110 to 120 is good, 100 to 110 is good. Find 5 cylinders at 100-110 and 1 cylinder at 90 = Problem. I personally wound not be interested in the motor if compression on any cylinders is below 100 PSI but, then again, if all are between 95 and 105 that's a bargaining point as the engine is gonna run and there doesn't appear to be anything totally out of whack other than being a tired old engine if you're only going to put 25 or 50 hours a year on it it will get the job done at an absolute fraction of the price of something with all cylinders reading 100PSI+. Old engine with compression in that 95-105... tell him the carbs are all going to need to be pulled and cleaned for fear of a cylinder running lean that could leave you with one heck of an anchor, you don't know if he's been running ethanol blended fuel in it or not, fuel economy stinks... $500 is my best offer or someone else can take the risk as I'd pay $750 if all cylinders were north of 105PSI and I was only going to put less than 50 hours a year on it. + +I'm very interested in hearing what others think on this issue before he buys!","Optimally the engine would be warm for the test. If there is a way to run it on muffs for 5-10 minutes prior to the test that would be great but that's not always possible. Engine hours... Who knows and sometimes a 2-stroke with low hours can present more probs than one with higher hours as 2-strokes MUST BE RUN and not allowed to sit. I think if you're in the 100-120 PSI range (120 is fantastic) tested with kill switch activated and throttle wide open you're looking good. The key is each cylinder's compression should be within the same 10% range so say 110 to 120 is good, 100 to 110 is good. Find 5 cylinders at 100-110 and 1 cylinder at 90 = Problem. I personally wound not be interested in the motor if compression on any cylinders is below 100 PSI but, then again, if all are between 95 and 105 that's a bargaining point as the engine is gonna run and there doesn't appear to be anything totally out of whack other than being a tired old engine if you're only going to put 25 or 50 hours a year on it it will get the job done at an absolute fraction of the price of something with all cylinders reading 100PSI+. Old engine with compression in that 95-105... tell him the carbs are all going to need to be pulled and cleaned for fear of a cylinder running lean that could leave you with one heck of an anchor, you don't know if he's been running ethanol blended fuel in it or not, fuel economy stinks... $500 is my best offer or someone else can take the risk as I'd pay $750 if all cylinders were north of 105PSI and I was only going to put less than 50 hours a year on it. + +I'm very interested in hearing what others think on this issue before he buys!","GLE3 said: + + + + Carb is 6j902 621400-071 77021 + +Not sure on cdi, outboard is on trailer and I can't flip 400 lbs at the moment... Coils are cm61-26 + +Click to expand... + + +Huh? If you can inspect the carburetors without flipping 400 lbs then you can inspect the CDI without flipping 400 lbs. Whatever that means. + +Looks like you looked at the center carburetors only. 6J9 carburetors were used on the 1986 ~ 1989 Pro V 150 models. -02 on the center pair and -03 on the top and bottom pair. The 1990 Pro V 150 model used a different part number." +"I'm in the market for a Mastercraft Barefoot 200. Originally these were equipped with carbed Yamaha 200 HP motors. They built them from 91 to 95. One I am considering has a 2006 V Max 3.3 litre. Another has a carbed 150 HP (not sure the year model yet). The third (ANd least interested in) has a 1984 Yamaha 200. +I don't really need the top end on this boat, as it will be used to pull 1 intermediate skier at speeds well below any of these motors capabilities. I am assuming the 150 weighs the same as the original 200. I have a friend with a 225 2007 Two stroke on his and the extra weight has caused some spray issues. + +What is your opinion of the 150 Yamahas of the mid 90's? Thanks in advance.","Well I own the boat. I had a marine mechanic check it out and do the compression test. The foot is new, and all cylinders were around 113, with number 6 being at 109. The carbs were professionally cleaned in 2015, new fuel lines installed. The owner has had it since 2009 and always ran Ethanol free 91 octane with Yamalube and some Yamaha cleaner every third tank. +More importantly the budget is there for a repower should this motor grenade, which I doubt it will. +Even more importantly the Hull is in fantastic shape, with great original gel coat and two year old interior with the correct and very 90's Teal, Grey , Pink and White. +Not too many outboards made specifically for skiing, so very pleased with this boat.","Well I own the boat. I had a marine mechanic check it out and do the compression test. The foot is new, and all cylinders were around 113, with number 6 being at 109. The carbs were professionally cleaned in 2015, new fuel lines installed. The owner has had it since 2009 and always ran Ethanol free 91 octane with Yamalube and some Yamaha cleaner every third tank. +More importantly the budget is there for a repower should this motor grenade, which I doubt it will. +Even more importantly the Hull is in fantastic shape, with great original gel coat and two year old interior with the correct and very 90's Teal, Grey , Pink and White. +Not too many outboards made specifically for skiing, so very pleased with this boat.","Glad you got it out. Yep, that exploded parts diagram you posted shows them both going the same way." +"I'm in the market for a Mastercraft Barefoot 200. Originally these were equipped with carbed Yamaha 200 HP motors. They built them from 91 to 95. One I am considering has a 2006 V Max 3.3 litre. Another has a carbed 150 HP (not sure the year model yet). The third (ANd least interested in) has a 1984 Yamaha 200. +I don't really need the top end on this boat, as it will be used to pull 1 intermediate skier at speeds well below any of these motors capabilities. I am assuming the 150 weighs the same as the original 200. I have a friend with a 225 2007 Two stroke on his and the extra weight has caused some spray issues. + +What is your opinion of the 150 Yamahas of the mid 90's? Thanks in advance.","Those numbers are good, just keep an eye on the no 6 cyl, but it shouldn't be a problem .... I would guess the motor have about between 250 - 300hrs on it with those readings. As long as you look after the motor it will last you a lifetime.","Those numbers are good, just keep an eye on the no 6 cyl, but it shouldn't be a problem .... I would guess the motor have about between 250 - 300hrs on it with those readings. As long as you look after the motor it will last you a lifetime.","Thanks Deepsea21, I think a lot of what you shared makes sense. I do have the feeling something is being overlooked and it may be simple in a sense. Right now, my rig is at the shop troubleshooting the squealing noise from the lower unit (which appears to be another 'ghost') then it is getting winterized as the lakes are locking up here. All along this process with the speed and RPM I have felt like something is suffocating either the fuel/air pressure systems and I absolutely know that the backing off the throttle for a slight increase in speed/rpm is a big tell when it comes to the problem. Thus far, the mechanics haven't either felt it was a factor or could not get it to reproduce the backing off for slight (100) rpm increase. Even then, it never has gone back to the 5500 I am used to - and it now more many uses and months later, the motor never gets near original rpm max at almost full throttle. Everything you posted makes sense - so I will check to see if there are any additional hidden filters they may be missing that are clogged or compromised. I do however believe that they did run my boat on the water with a portable shop fuel tank and line to see if that made a difference and it didn't. That makes me wonder if a clog either developed and traveled somewhere into the short fuel line within the motor or like you said it is another hidden filter. What appears different from the experience you shared is that I never can regain full rpm and it always goes down slightly at full throttle. +The deterioration of rpm has been a slow, and not up and down process and the rig seems more affected by boat weight than ever before. Stripping the weight down does make a difference but the boat still does not return to close to ""normal"" rpm. +In looking at some other similar posts I am wondering if there is a possibility that the squealing noise is the water pump impeller that under load and sustained runs shifts within the housing and rubs wrong - affecting the motor's performance and that the motor self regulates and does not allow to run at normal rpm because of this. I have never had as sensor go off however and it seems to be cooling fine. The current impeller is 2.5 years old with 100 hrs on it. The one before was installed wrong and crooked within the housing and did make a noise. There is also the chance the rpm loss and squealing noise are unrelated. I am working on uploading a video with the motor making the noise to this post and the other squealing one. +I really do appreciate all the input." +"I'm in the market for a Mastercraft Barefoot 200. Originally these were equipped with carbed Yamaha 200 HP motors. They built them from 91 to 95. One I am considering has a 2006 V Max 3.3 litre. Another has a carbed 150 HP (not sure the year model yet). The third (ANd least interested in) has a 1984 Yamaha 200. +I don't really need the top end on this boat, as it will be used to pull 1 intermediate skier at speeds well below any of these motors capabilities. I am assuming the 150 weighs the same as the original 200. I have a friend with a 225 2007 Two stroke on his and the extra weight has caused some spray issues. + +What is your opinion of the 150 Yamahas of the mid 90's? Thanks in advance.",Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated.,Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated.,Turns out it was the jack plate wires. Guy had a 20” shaft motor on a 15” transom. Gonna cut the wires and take my controls. +ive got a 1993 40hp Yamaha 3 cylinder with 120 on compression on all 3 cylinder but im getting a little moisture on the bottom cylinder and feel sluggish once you get passed 3/4 throttle idles smooth and starts fine what would be he possible causes any ideas,"Welcome to the forum, can you please explain a bit more on how you are getting the moisture on the bottom cyl?","Welcome to the forum, can you please explain a bit more on how you are getting the moisture on the bottom cyl?",1.5 to 2 is fine.... This adjustment is only for idle. Not going to make the engine run different on the top end. +ive got a 1993 40hp Yamaha 3 cylinder with 120 on compression on all 3 cylinder but im getting a little moisture on the bottom cylinder and feel sluggish once you get passed 3/4 throttle idles smooth and starts fine what would be he possible causes any ideas,"I just replied to a different thread, similar engine and issue. Take a read: +http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?441740-Yamaha-30-hp-not-running-at-full-power","I just replied to a different thread, similar engine and issue. Take a read: +http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?441740-Yamaha-30-hp-not-running-at-full-power","How about trying acetone, ethyl acetate, or even fingernail polish remover. Any one of these are powerful diluents, as well as they would not adversely effect the carb body." +"Yesterday my trim motor kept running in down pos. 02 ox66 TXRZ 150hp. Disconnected trim motor from solenoid, kept fishing. Got back to dock, reconnected, worked fine. Change solenoid? Down works off trailer switch always, intermittent from throttle control but switch checks out ok. 2 different connections on solenoid. 1 keeper fluke.",Sticky thumb switch on the throttle? When it was constantly running tilt down did you try to trim up with the thumb switch and see if it would stop the down tilt running and start it trimming up? I am guessing both the thumb switch and the switch on the engine engage the same solenoid so if it works without issue with the switch on the engine something is going on with the switch on the throttle. Maybe others can confirm what I'm thinking?,Sticky thumb switch on the throttle? When it was constantly running tilt down did you try to trim up with the thumb switch and see if it would stop the down tilt running and start it trimming up? I am guessing both the thumb switch and the switch on the engine engage the same solenoid so if it works without issue with the switch on the engine something is going on with the switch on the throttle. Maybe others can confirm what I'm thinking?,"Could be (amongst a lot of other things) a bad gudgeon pin/bearing. There is a simple test. Take out the spark plugs and put a long piece of dowel or similar down one of the plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand until the dowel shows that that cylinder is a TDC (top of the stroke). Rotate the flywheel another 3 or 4 degress past TDC then stop. Next push firmly on the dowel to see if the piston can be moved by the dowel. Do this for each cylinder by rotating each one just past TDC. On a good engine the piston will not move. On an older engine you might just detect a very tiny movement. ON a bad engine you will feel a definite movement and usually hear a 'click/clunk' type noise. This test gives a rough check of both the gudgeon and big end bearings. It isn't perfect, but is a quick way to check for what is a reasonably common problem." +"Yesterday my trim motor kept running in down pos. 02 ox66 TXRZ 150hp. Disconnected trim motor from solenoid, kept fishing. Got back to dock, reconnected, worked fine. Change solenoid? Down works off trailer switch always, intermittent from throttle control but switch checks out ok. 2 different connections on solenoid. 1 keeper fluke.","deepsea21 said: + + + + Sticky thumb switch on the throttle? When it was constantly running tilt down did you try to trim up with the thumb switch and see if it would stop the down tilt running and start it trimming up? I am guessing both the thumb switch and the switch on the engine engage the same solenoid so if it works without issue with the switch on the engine something is going on with the switch on the throttle. Maybe others can confirm what I'm thinking? + +Click to expand... + + +This ^^^ is a valid suggestion. If all checks out with the engine side wiring, the control lever switch is most likely the culprit. If this is the case, the contact points in the lever switch can become corroded, which can cause sticking or circuit failure. The control lever disassembly is simple and straightforward. Get yourself a parts blow out as a guide. Once you've got the thumb rocker switch out, it has a rubber oval grommet that needs to be carefully peeled back to access the contact points. Using very small screwdrivers helps to peel back rubber, like the ones used to repair eye glasses. Pull the points, clean with wire brush and some electronics spray. Reinstall. Like new.","deepsea21 said: + + + + Sticky thumb switch on the throttle? When it was constantly running tilt down did you try to trim up with the thumb switch and see if it would stop the down tilt running and start it trimming up? I am guessing both the thumb switch and the switch on the engine engage the same solenoid so if it works without issue with the switch on the engine something is going on with the switch on the throttle. Maybe others can confirm what I'm thinking? + +Click to expand... + + +This ^^^ is a valid suggestion. If all checks out with the engine side wiring, the control lever switch is most likely the culprit. If this is the case, the contact points in the lever switch can become corroded, which can cause sticking or circuit failure. The control lever disassembly is simple and straightforward. Get yourself a parts blow out as a guide. Once you've got the thumb rocker switch out, it has a rubber oval grommet that needs to be carefully peeled back to access the contact points. Using very small screwdrivers helps to peel back rubber, like the ones used to repair eye glasses. Pull the points, clean with wire brush and some electronics spray. Reinstall. Like new.","Start at the bottom of fuel tank pickup tube,might be a clogged screen, Check all clamps and hoses for security, IF you have a fuel/water separator, Dump contents into a clear container,sit overnite,look for contaniments at bottom. Is the primer bulb pumping up firmly? Does pumping primer bulb while running help, need asst. This would indicate a fuel delivery issue,clogged filters,weak fuel pump. Is fuel tank clean? Is fuel old or new? New fuel mixed with last years?" +"My starboard engine just developed a definitive rap this past week. It has run fine all year. Its a 2001 OX66 200HP Yamaha. No noise in neutral. Only heard under load. Gets louder as load increases. Will be taking boat to mechanic unless I can figure what it is. Pulled Spark Plugs, and they seem fine. All plugs appear the same. Checked for movement in pistons at TDC and everything seems solid. Checked, drained, and refilled LU. Some metallic fines but not excessive? Engine seems to have plenty of power, just with a rap. This engine does smoke more than the port engine, but from what I read about these 2 stroke engines, my oil usage is not excessive. I run Ring Free pretty regularly. I have had the boat for 4 years. + +What should I check before breaking down and delivering to Yamy Mechanic.? + +Thanks in advance.",Pull the O2 sensor and clean it. In side the O2 mount is a part they call the Joint. It is a slide and gets filled with carbon. If it is clogged it will make a rapping noise just like a con rod.,Pull the O2 sensor and clean it. In side the O2 mount is a part they call the Joint. It is a slide and gets filled with carbon. If it is clogged it will make a rapping noise just like a con rod.,How do I get to the main fuse ? +"My starboard engine just developed a definitive rap this past week. It has run fine all year. Its a 2001 OX66 200HP Yamaha. No noise in neutral. Only heard under load. Gets louder as load increases. Will be taking boat to mechanic unless I can figure what it is. Pulled Spark Plugs, and they seem fine. All plugs appear the same. Checked for movement in pistons at TDC and everything seems solid. Checked, drained, and refilled LU. Some metallic fines but not excessive? Engine seems to have plenty of power, just with a rap. This engine does smoke more than the port engine, but from what I read about these 2 stroke engines, my oil usage is not excessive. I run Ring Free pretty regularly. I have had the boat for 4 years. + +What should I check before breaking down and delivering to Yamy Mechanic.? + +Thanks in advance.","Thanks Chris, I will inspect. Is this something that would only rap under load and not at idle? I don't notice the rap in neutral, only under load.","Thanks Chris, I will inspect. Is this something that would only rap under load and not at idle? I don't notice the rap in neutral, only under load.","not the best picture to post....based on your description, I'd say you have a ""trolling motor mount"" transducer....the concave bevel is shaped to match to motor housing on a trolling motor, so it goes up....many have slots at the 'top of the ears' for a hose clamp to secure to a motor.... + +If you take your ""setup"" to a pool (instead of the bucket of water), it should be pretty easy to verify this..." +"My starboard engine just developed a definitive rap this past week. It has run fine all year. Its a 2001 OX66 200HP Yamaha. No noise in neutral. Only heard under load. Gets louder as load increases. Will be taking boat to mechanic unless I can figure what it is. Pulled Spark Plugs, and they seem fine. All plugs appear the same. Checked for movement in pistons at TDC and everything seems solid. Checked, drained, and refilled LU. Some metallic fines but not excessive? Engine seems to have plenty of power, just with a rap. This engine does smoke more than the port engine, but from what I read about these 2 stroke engines, my oil usage is not excessive. I run Ring Free pretty regularly. I have had the boat for 4 years. + +What should I check before breaking down and delivering to Yamy Mechanic.? + +Thanks in advance.","same problem with my 02 0x66. Pulled o2 sensor cleaned joint& sensor, fixed problem. Be sure to change gaskets not reuse them. +.","same problem with my 02 0x66. Pulled o2 sensor cleaned joint& sensor, fixed problem. Be sure to change gaskets not reuse them. +.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Did you have the injectors cleaned? + +Click to expand... + + +They have never been cleaned." +"My starboard engine just developed a definitive rap this past week. It has run fine all year. Its a 2001 OX66 200HP Yamaha. No noise in neutral. Only heard under load. Gets louder as load increases. Will be taking boat to mechanic unless I can figure what it is. Pulled Spark Plugs, and they seem fine. All plugs appear the same. Checked for movement in pistons at TDC and everything seems solid. Checked, drained, and refilled LU. Some metallic fines but not excessive? Engine seems to have plenty of power, just with a rap. This engine does smoke more than the port engine, but from what I read about these 2 stroke engines, my oil usage is not excessive. I run Ring Free pretty regularly. I have had the boat for 4 years. + +What should I check before breaking down and delivering to Yamy Mechanic.? + +Thanks in advance.","Just realized the S/N on engine reads Z200TRXY, so does the situation change if this is an HPDI? Both cowlings and other engine read LX200TRXY so I assumed both were OX66's. + +Both have O2 sensors. + +The boat is a World Cat 266. It was originally powered with Honda 130's. The previous owner repowered with rebuilt Yamaha 200's. Not sure why they would mix engines. I have had the boat for 4 years. Both seem to drink the same amount of fuel and oil, maybe with the HPDI using more oil. + +I have been doing a lot of reading the past couple of days. I would suspect that the O2's are dirty. I do run Ring Free.","Just realized the S/N on engine reads Z200TRXY, so does the situation change if this is an HPDI? Both cowlings and other engine read LX200TRXY so I assumed both were OX66's. + +Both have O2 sensors. + +The boat is a World Cat 266. It was originally powered with Honda 130's. The previous owner repowered with rebuilt Yamaha 200's. Not sure why they would mix engines. I have had the boat for 4 years. Both seem to drink the same amount of fuel and oil, maybe with the HPDI using more oil. + +I have been doing a lot of reading the past couple of days. I would suspect that the O2's are dirty. I do run Ring Free.",Would you still have a copy of this bulletin you could send me at [email protected]???? Thank you. +"My starboard engine just developed a definitive rap this past week. It has run fine all year. Its a 2001 OX66 200HP Yamaha. No noise in neutral. Only heard under load. Gets louder as load increases. Will be taking boat to mechanic unless I can figure what it is. Pulled Spark Plugs, and they seem fine. All plugs appear the same. Checked for movement in pistons at TDC and everything seems solid. Checked, drained, and refilled LU. Some metallic fines but not excessive? Engine seems to have plenty of power, just with a rap. This engine does smoke more than the port engine, but from what I read about these 2 stroke engines, my oil usage is not excessive. I run Ring Free pretty regularly. I have had the boat for 4 years. + +What should I check before breaking down and delivering to Yamy Mechanic.? + +Thanks in advance.","I learn something every day about these engines. It looks like the Starboard engine is really an OX66 in spite of the Z200 S/N, as it has a VST like the port engine which is listed as a LX200. Interesting.","I learn something every day about these engines. It looks like the Starboard engine is really an OX66 in spite of the Z200 S/N, as it has a VST like the port engine which is listed as a LX200. Interesting.","Just so were on the same page....the trim switch you're referring to is the thumb switch located on the remote controls throttle lever? The ""start switch"" you're referring to is the keyed ignition?" +"My starboard engine just developed a definitive rap this past week. It has run fine all year. Its a 2001 OX66 200HP Yamaha. No noise in neutral. Only heard under load. Gets louder as load increases. Will be taking boat to mechanic unless I can figure what it is. Pulled Spark Plugs, and they seem fine. All plugs appear the same. Checked for movement in pistons at TDC and everything seems solid. Checked, drained, and refilled LU. Some metallic fines but not excessive? Engine seems to have plenty of power, just with a rap. This engine does smoke more than the port engine, but from what I read about these 2 stroke engines, my oil usage is not excessive. I run Ring Free pretty regularly. I have had the boat for 4 years. + +What should I check before breaking down and delivering to Yamy Mechanic.? + +Thanks in advance.","lburess said: + + + + I do run Ring Free. + +Click to expand... + + +You take them apart and clean them.","lburess said: + + + + I do run Ring Free. + +Click to expand... + + +You take them apart and clean them.", +"Hi there, + +New member, new poster. Looks like a great forum! + +I bought a used 1989 Yamaha 9.9 4 Stroke. After fixing some initial carb. problems, I noticed that oil and water are mixing in the engine. The oil tank is filling up, and I see oil leaking onto the driveway when I test it. + +It holds pressure well (114 and 119 on the two cylinders) at last test. I know that oil and water can mix because of a cracked block, but a solid test seems like it would rule that out. True? + +I also know that a cracked manifold could lead to oil-water mix, and might not affect my pressure reading. + +Anyone know what the most likely culprit is, and maybe the second most likely? + +Thanks!","A 4stroke is expected to have at least 120psi (low) to 210-220psi (new). You must check compression on 4stroke with throttle wide open to get correct readings. +Water can enter crankcase where there's a gasket around the crankcase as well as seals and orings connnecting any open passage leading to crankcase. Mostly head gasket, oil pan gasket, adaptor plate, etc...If your thermostat is stuck open, an amount of moisture will also accumulates and enters the crankcase overtime or faster with a high degree of corrosion on the block/head. +Milky oil leaks while parked your boat. It may be the lower unit oil mixed with water. Bad lower units seals! +Good luck!","A 4stroke is expected to have at least 120psi (low) to 210-220psi (new). You must check compression on 4stroke with throttle wide open to get correct readings. +Water can enter crankcase where there's a gasket around the crankcase as well as seals and orings connnecting any open passage leading to crankcase. Mostly head gasket, oil pan gasket, adaptor plate, etc...If your thermostat is stuck open, an amount of moisture will also accumulates and enters the crankcase overtime or faster with a high degree of corrosion on the block/head. +Milky oil leaks while parked your boat. It may be the lower unit oil mixed with water. Bad lower units seals! +Good luck!",http://www.maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/80_81_V4.jpg +"I bought an outboard recently from a guy on craigslist. 2006-2008 Yamaha 9.9 (T9.9GPXR) and a 703 controller (separately), and got all exited about all its features. I got the 10 pin controller because my outboard manual says it has one. It does not. I absolutely cannot figure out how to connect the controller or more importantly how to get power to the motor. We are trying to leave on a pretty epic trip the week and are being held up by this motor. PLEASE PLEASE any help would be much appreciated. THANK [email protected][email protected]!!",for the sake of speed......run it by the yahmaha dealer,for the sake of speed......run it by the yahmaha dealer,"Thanks a million, I'm new to the world of boating, so get ready I'll be asking alot of questions." +"I have a 1993 175 that i have rebuilt carbs, replaced fuel lines and new plugs. Checked spark from coils to plugs at idle, but when i rev it it up spark is intermiitent on all plug wires, any help would be appreciated",Whats engine model number? Spark at the plug electrode is supposed to ne intermittent. Each plug fires at a specific time. What issue are you having with your engine?,Whats engine model number? Spark at the plug electrode is supposed to ne intermittent. Each plug fires at a specific time. What issue are you having with your engine?,Make sure it is getting to running temp on both cylinder heads. +"I have a 1993 175 that i have rebuilt carbs, replaced fuel lines and new plugs. Checked spark from coils to plugs at idle, but when i rev it it up spark is intermiitent on all plug wires, any help would be appreciated","will check engine # spark drops out at 2500 rpm thinking coil pulser, checked coils with tester all lose good spark at higher rpms","will check engine # spark drops out at 2500 rpm thinking coil pulser, checked coils with tester all lose good spark at higher rpms",the engine is a Volvo 320 CE-B (5.7) +"I have a 1993 175 that i have rebuilt carbs, replaced fuel lines and new plugs. Checked spark from coils to plugs at idle, but when i rev it it up spark is intermiitent on all plug wires, any help would be appreciated","Here is the link to a pdf of your engines service manual, if you don't have one. The electronic section will have details on how to test all of the electrical components associated with spark. Including the cdi, which is where the problem might be. You'll need a multimeter. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...993-yamaha-115r-130r-150r-175r-200r-225r/file","Here is the link to a pdf of your engines service manual, if you don't have one. The electronic section will have details on how to test all of the electrical components associated with spark. Including the cdi, which is where the problem might be. You'll need a multimeter. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...993-yamaha-115r-130r-150r-175r-200r-225r/file","I think all of those left the factory as "" tiller steered "" models.----Not sure why or what you are trying too do here." +"I have a 1993 175 that i have rebuilt carbs, replaced fuel lines and new plugs. Checked spark from coils to plugs at idle, but when i rev it it up spark is intermiitent on all plug wires, any help would be appreciated","Your CDI unit might be stuck in over rev mode. Go to the CDI and you wil see a grey wire that loops back into the CDI. This is your rev limiter wire. Cut this wire and try again. You can always join the ends again if that was not the problem , but I'm sure this will cure your problem.","Your CDI unit might be stuck in over rev mode. Go to the CDI and you wil see a grey wire that loops back into the CDI. This is your rev limiter wire. Cut this wire and try again. You can always join the ends again if that was not the problem , but I'm sure this will cure your problem.","Dahoff89 said: + + + + I thank you very much for the response. Yesterday afternoon I took my lower unit to my boat guy and as soon as he walked up to it and got to look at the impeller he told me that it was shot. I proceeded to tell him that I had just put it on less than a week ago and that the engine had been barely run do to it still not cooling properly. Once he pulled the impeller off the shaft to inspect it he asked me where I got it from which, I told him I got it off Amazon as a kit. He proceeded to tell me how the impeller I got was junk and got me a Sierra impeller he had in stock. I went home and put it all back together and Wallah everything was working just as it should. Engine still running great, cooling system running all well again with lukewarm water coming out The Tell Tale and a nice strong stream. So if anyone is reading this after purchasing a water pump kit online that is not a Sierra brand or Genuine Yamaha parts don't try to save a couple bucks because everything else is garbage and will cause you headaches. + +Click to expand... + + +Very good. + +Good to know that my next impeller change doesn't have to be the expensive Yamaha OEM kit. I used a Sierra oil filter, but hadn't tried their impeller yet." +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","I would probably suspect a stu + +I would probably suspect a stuck/sunk carb float","I would probably suspect a stu + +I would probably suspect a stuck/sunk carb float",Couple pictures of the mounting pucks. I drilled a few holes around the perimeter of the puck and matching holes in the mounting plate so that the epoxy will flow into to lock it in. +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","""Trent, + +Had the same proble + +""Trent, + +Had the same problem. I was lucky that my fishing partner was a mechanic. It was a stuck float. Need to drain float bowl which sometimes works. I disassembeled the carb to see if there was trash causing the stick. No trash. The carb is easy to take off with socket. I keep tools for disassmbly with me at all times. + +Herb""","""Trent, + +Had the same proble + +""Trent, + +Had the same problem. I was lucky that my fishing partner was a mechanic. It was a stuck float. Need to drain float bowl which sometimes works. I disassembeled the carb to see if there was trash causing the stick. No trash. The carb is easy to take off with socket. I keep tools for disassmbly with me at all times. + +Herb""","racerone said: + + + + These oil line check valve do not see crankcase COMPRESSION at all.---------------How can there be pressure in an open chamber ?-----Carburetors are open , so no + pressure in the intake manifold !! + +Click to expand... + + +The reed valves closes due to the main mixture of air and fuel stalls and an reverse flow appears (I understand you talk about the intake manifold and that is before the rees valves). + +My conclusion is that the function for the check valves comes in to roll when stopping the engine (throttle valves fully closed, and reed valves closes slower than when it run) and the prio is to not push the oil back into the lines with that air coming back, this because that the normal supply flow of the oil is sooo very small/slow, so there could be a risk that it takes a prolonged time for the oil to start lubricate every time you start the engine... + +I dont know, I guess + +I have teached jet engine constructions and believe me, you can have very different pressures in an ""open"" system" +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","""I've got the same problem + +""I've got the same problem with my F25 '03 +no problems ever then now it will start and idle for 10-20 seconds then quit. +The pumper shaft at back of carb has a rubber boot which I discovered is cracked, if I manually pump it the engine starts and quits. +If I pump it 4-6 times gas leaks out of the cracked boot. +Question is of course what effect will the boot being cracked have? Will it let air in and prevent the engine from running once started?""","""I've got the same problem + +""I've got the same problem with my F25 '03 +no problems ever then now it will start and idle for 10-20 seconds then quit. +The pumper shaft at back of carb has a rubber boot which I discovered is cracked, if I manually pump it the engine starts and quits. +If I pump it 4-6 times gas leaks out of the cracked boot. +Question is of course what effect will the boot being cracked have? Will it let air in and prevent the engine from running once started?""","Take that back r means remote control and the Q is 1992. you equivalent Yamaha would have an ""O""" +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","""Still having problems running + +""Still having problems running my F25. +I replaced the rubber boot on the pump arm at top of carb, the one behind the throttle linkage and same result, if pumped it will start and die. +If pumped, started, and goosed to run at a higher rpm it will run at that higher rpm, but dies if returned to idle. +I've cleaned every orifice and jet i can find, but still no luck. bowl off, top plate off, solenoid thingy off and cleaned, fresh fuel etc. +It will start if that little arm is pumped with the linkage until fuel runs out of (?) and dies. +5-8 seconds. +Any help out there?""","""Still having problems running + +""Still having problems running my F25. +I replaced the rubber boot on the pump arm at top of carb, the one behind the throttle linkage and same result, if pumped it will start and die. +If pumped, started, and goosed to run at a higher rpm it will run at that higher rpm, but dies if returned to idle. +I've cleaned every orifice and jet i can find, but still no luck. bowl off, top plate off, solenoid thingy off and cleaned, fresh fuel etc. +It will start if that little arm is pumped with the linkage until fuel runs out of (?) and dies. +5-8 seconds. +Any help out there?""","You could use a fuel fill that accepts a threaded pipe fitting in the underside. Then you would use a combination of a close nipple, 90 or 45 elbow (or street ell instead) and a tailpiece with hose barb. Examples here: http://www.fisheriessupply.com/plumbing/deck-fills + +Consider this though: a 90 degree elbow attached to the filler is going to make fueling slower and you'll probably have to hold the nozzle." +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","""A second question/thought: +A + +""A second question/thought: +Anyone think the fuel pump would be at fault? Would it not pump at idle but pump at higher rpm? this engine will start and die, but start and run if I am able to advance the throttle and keep rpm at a 1/3rd plus.""","""A second question/thought: +A + +""A second question/thought: +Anyone think the fuel pump would be at fault? Would it not pump at idle but pump at higher rpm? this engine will start and die, but start and run if I am able to advance the throttle and keep rpm at a 1/3rd plus.""","'06 F115 is a 15 spline, 4.25"" gearcase. The only other necessary variable needed to know when choosing a prop is whether you have a right or left hand rotation engine. 4.25"" gearcase translates to a prop diameter between 13"" and 14"", but most common diameter offered and used is 13.25"". + +And also, to my knowledge props are not designed to be used for a specific stroke engine. The operators responsibility is to choose the correct size diameter/spline/rotation prop for the engine. The stroke of engine bears no weight, as I have an older 2 stroke Yam. And it has a 4.25"" gearcase, just like the newer F115 models have. + +The pics below are taken from Mercury's prop index. As you'll see, the Merc Trophy prop is offered in 2 pitches sizes for your engine (13.25"" diameter), 17"" & 19"". The specific Flo Torq kit to use for your F115 is also pictured below, highlighted in yellow." +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","Maybe the float is stuck open + +Maybe the float is stuck open and flooding your engine with petrol. +Bodge 1: Blow a bit of air into the carb drain plug to free it. +Bodge 2: Poke a pice of wire in the hole to try and free up the float. +Bodges - Might get you home but might happen again. +Better: Dismantle and rebuild the carb.","Maybe the float is stuck open + +Maybe the float is stuck open and flooding your engine with petrol. +Bodge 1: Blow a bit of air into the carb drain plug to free it. +Bodge 2: Poke a pice of wire in the hole to try and free up the float. +Bodges - Might get you home but might happen again. +Better: Dismantle and rebuild the carb.","I have tried the manual, yes. But its not doing anything good. That's why I try to get my answers here, but apparently I can't find them here." +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","""Float is not stuck, +Carb has + +""Float is not stuck, +Carb has been cleaned out twice. +Will tackle fuel pump to rule out.""","""Float is not stuck, +Carb has + +""Float is not stuck, +Carb has been cleaned out twice. +Will tackle fuel pump to rule out.""","""Lowell...I believe you are re + +""Lowell...I believe you are referring to the 'enrichment system' that replaces the old manual choke system. It enriches the idle mixture on a cold start engine until it warms up. To make it work, you turn the ignition switch to 'on' and depress the key....then start as usual. +I have noticed a lot here are rebuilding carbs. If you don't already have one, I would highly recommend installing a 10-micron water separating fuel filter. Do some research and find out all the headaches you can avoid with this one little addition.""" +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","""""pumper shaft"", I ass + +""""pumper shaft"", I assume, is the accelerator pump. When you accelerate, it gives the engine a shot of fuel until it transitions to the high-speed system. The boot leaking could indicate the cup on the shaft is too worn to give the engine this shot of fuel. Continuously pumping it will flood engine on a lot of models. Gasoline squirting out of the boot on top is also indicative of a worn/cracked cup. The cup is either rubber or leather, and will disintegrate over time/use, allowing small particles to enter the jets/passages. +A bad fuel pump diaphragm will normally allow raw fuel to get in the crankcase and mix with the oil. It also makes the engine starve for fuel at higher rpm's. Pull the dipstick and see if you can smell any raw fuel in the oil. +If you can goose the throttle and get above the 'dead spot', I would suspect a blockage in the idle/low speed jet/passages first. They are small, and sometimes extremely difficult to clean. I would recommend you find someone with an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the carb(s). Liquid cleaners and air do not always solve the problem if there is somethng wedged in an orfice. Also, I would be wary about putting a carb back together with old parts, especially an accelerator pump or float seat/needle valve. +Hope this is of some help +Gary}""","""""pumper shaft"", I ass + +""""pumper shaft"", I assume, is the accelerator pump. When you accelerate, it gives the engine a shot of fuel until it transitions to the high-speed system. The boot leaking could indicate the cup on the shaft is too worn to give the engine this shot of fuel. Continuously pumping it will flood engine on a lot of models. Gasoline squirting out of the boot on top is also indicative of a worn/cracked cup. The cup is either rubber or leather, and will disintegrate over time/use, allowing small particles to enter the jets/passages. +A bad fuel pump diaphragm will normally allow raw fuel to get in the crankcase and mix with the oil. It also makes the engine starve for fuel at higher rpm's. Pull the dipstick and see if you can smell any raw fuel in the oil. +If you can goose the throttle and get above the 'dead spot', I would suspect a blockage in the idle/low speed jet/passages first. They are small, and sometimes extremely difficult to clean. I would recommend you find someone with an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the carb(s). Liquid cleaners and air do not always solve the problem if there is somethng wedged in an orfice. Also, I would be wary about putting a carb back together with old parts, especially an accelerator pump or float seat/needle valve. +Hope this is of some help +Gary}""",I'm thinking pulser coil next. ( pick up) I found one cheap but I would like to check it first. If anyone knows how? What do I need to pull the flywheel? +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","yamaha outboard: 9.9 hp 4 stro + +yamaha outboard: 9.9 hp 4 stroke. What does the electrical thing with the 2 wires on top of carb. do? I have cleaned the carb. put a new kit in it and a new fuel pump and it will start run a couple seconds then quit. If i squirt gas in the air horn it will remain idleing. Any Ideas +?","yamaha outboard: 9.9 hp 4 stro + +yamaha outboard: 9.9 hp 4 stroke. What does the electrical thing with the 2 wires on top of carb. do? I have cleaned the carb. put a new kit in it and a new fuel pump and it will start run a couple seconds then quit. If i squirt gas in the air horn it will remain idleing. Any Ideas +?",agree.... +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","""Lowell...I believe you are re + +""Lowell...I believe you are referring to the 'enrichment system' that replaces the old manual choke system. It enriches the idle mixture on a cold start engine until it warms up. To make it work, you turn the ignition switch to 'on' and depress the key....then start as usual. +I have noticed a lot here are rebuilding carbs. If you don't already have one, I would highly recommend installing a 10-micron water separating fuel filter. Do some research and find out all the headaches you can avoid with this one little addition.""","""Lowell...I believe you are re + +""Lowell...I believe you are referring to the 'enrichment system' that replaces the old manual choke system. It enriches the idle mixture on a cold start engine until it warms up. To make it work, you turn the ignition switch to 'on' and depress the key....then start as usual. +I have noticed a lot here are rebuilding carbs. If you don't already have one, I would highly recommend installing a 10-micron water separating fuel filter. Do some research and find out all the headaches you can avoid with this one little addition.""",Yes get a push to choke ignition switch and just wire the lanyard in series with the kill circuit. The ignition switch will have two M terminals wire the lanyard to those two terminals. Always disconnect the battery when your messing with the wiring if you accidentally short the kill wire to battery pos it will cook the powerpack. Even for a split second. +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","""O.K. been away for awhile, am + +""O.K. been away for awhile, am back to tackling the non running F25 MSHB +can anyone give guidance on the flywheel timing marks/alighnment and the corresponding mark lineup on the rear flywheel? +The belt seems a little loose and I'm wondering if it has slipped. +At this point, the fuel system checks out for float, wet plugs, no leaks ect.""","""O.K. been away for awhile, am + +""O.K. been away for awhile, am back to tackling the non running F25 MSHB +can anyone give guidance on the flywheel timing marks/alighnment and the corresponding mark lineup on the rear flywheel? +The belt seems a little loose and I'm wondering if it has slipped. +At this point, the fuel system checks out for float, wet plugs, no leaks ect.""","Ayuh,.... My guess is, the trailer ain't Grounded back to the tow unit's battery,..... + +Aka: a Bad Ground path,...." +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","""O.K. fixed the problem, timin + +""O.K. fixed the problem, timing O.K., fuel pump O.K. carb totally disassembled and 2 micro jets plugged. +Jets so small a single strand of speaker wire 18/2 is small enough to pass through. +Pumper cleaned, all passages, ran first crank. +We're fighting ethanol fuel, so it looks like run it dry each time. +Thanks all,""","""O.K. fixed the problem, timin + +""O.K. fixed the problem, timing O.K., fuel pump O.K. carb totally disassembled and 2 micro jets plugged. +Jets so small a single strand of speaker wire 18/2 is small enough to pass through. +Pumper cleaned, all passages, ran first crank. +We're fighting ethanol fuel, so it looks like run it dry each time. +Thanks all,""","Terrifoster20 said: + + + + Thank you but I have already done this and still can't find nothing.. I even called the company's that made these boats and no one can help me. I have googled everything we had questions on and again notihing even the motor I/o Volvo penta video's we find are not our motor. I don't understand why its so hard to find this info.. its like a jigsaw puzzle finding little bits and pieces with this boat. the previous owner is the original owner and well he isn't much help all he says is it was all working when I took it out last year. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... The kinda ""Manual"" yer lookin' for, Don't exist,.... + +I'm sure you can get factory shop manuals for the motor, 'n drive,.... + +A bilge pump, it's plumbin', 'n it's wirin' is just basic ""Boat"" stuff,.... +Ya dig in, find what's there, fix or replace what ya find, 'n Go Fishin',...." +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""","""Christopher +Glad you finally + +""Christopher +Glad you finally got that engine going. If you don't have one, I highly recommend a 10-micron fuel/water separator filter to prevent/lessen future problems. I use one that has the clear bowl on the bottom so you can see if any water is accumulating. +I have seen those jets plugged so bad they had to use a ultrasonic cleaner to get them cleared. +Good luck and happy boating + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +Gary""","""Christopher +Glad you finally + +""Christopher +Glad you finally got that engine going. If you don't have one, I highly recommend a 10-micron fuel/water separator filter to prevent/lessen future problems. I use one that has the clear bowl on the bottom so you can see if any water is accumulating. +I have seen those jets plugged so bad they had to use a ultrasonic cleaner to get them cleared. +Good luck and happy boating + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +Gary""","Yamaha has offered F25's since 1998. 20 years now. Where did the time go? + +Any chance of you giving us the complete model identity or are those last few letters too difficult to type?" +"""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke th + +""I have a 25 horse 4 stroke that wont run right or start. It finnally started after disconnecting the fuel line after it burned some fuel off. After it finnally started I tryed to hook up the fuel line and as soon as I did it died. So I had to drain some fuel and disconnect the fuel line to start it again. After turning the motor for a little bit while triing to start it, fuel starts soaking out from behind the carb. Any suggestions?""",Fuel enrichment system blocking the venting of the carb fuel bowl. Remove hose from fuel enrichment bulb and start engine.,Fuel enrichment system blocking the venting of the carb fuel bowl. Remove hose from fuel enrichment bulb and start engine.,"Here is a link to what appears to be an aftermarket pump motor. Less than the price of the breaker from Yamaha. + +https://bayareapowersports.com/yama...w-43880-00-00-69w-43880-09-00-62y-43880-00-00" +"Seems I have read somewhere...probably here that the 2.6 litre is great, but the bigger one might be problematic. Considering a boat with a 2006 3.3litre that claims low hours and well maintained. Any known trouble issues with the 2006 200 HP V Max ? +Thanks.","By far one of my favourite 2-stroke motors of all time, low maintenance, hard workers. My friends used these on their fishing boats and they run WOT for hours to go out to sea and in extreme conditions. Fuel consumption is a bit high. There is not any known issues I am aware of, as long as you threat them well they will treat you well.","By far one of my favourite 2-stroke motors of all time, low maintenance, hard workers. My friends used these on their fishing boats and they run WOT for hours to go out to sea and in extreme conditions. Fuel consumption is a bit high. There is not any known issues I am aware of, as long as you threat them well they will treat you well.","Have done a Compression test around 110 ? 22 yr old motor is this acceptable ? Yeh will do head gasket , but dreading extracting the bolts out of the block, i've heard they snap quite easy any tips ???" +"Seems I have read somewhere...probably here that the 2.6 litre is great, but the bigger one might be problematic. Considering a boat with a 2006 3.3litre that claims low hours and well maintained. Any known trouble issues with the 2006 200 HP V Max ? +Thanks.","They were good motors but did have issues that were fixed by Yamaha. The 2006 motors are called Series 1 engines and like you said in the higher HP engines some did blow up. Remember these are maxed out two stroke engines and like all high HP engines if something is not right they will eat themselves to death. Piston seizures with rods thrown through blocks are not uncommon especially in the 300 HP versions. Everything must be in spec as Yamaha service says or you could have a BIG problem and parts for these are astronomically expensive. Early engines had oil injection pumps that were calibrated to delivery too much oil and this caused mis-firing and plug fouling. These engines must also be warmed up for a rather long time when they are first started cold. Idling and slow speed running for at least 15 minutes is needed to ensure they dont cold seize when the thermostats open for the first time. They replace these pumps with new ones for free if the owned took it to a dealer.If it blows up badly most engines get sold off for parts because of this. So here is what I recommend for you. Do some research and find out what the best Yamaha dealer for service is in your area. Go and talk to them and talk to the tech that will be working on it. Do they have the computer software, PC, connection cords so they can read the end codes etc. If they dont have this walk away because they dont know what they are doing. Once you are confident then ask the to check that updates have been done and then to do a complete service job. You will be happy then. If you dont do the above it could cost you a fortune and in the end you may no end up with an engine.","They were good motors but did have issues that were fixed by Yamaha. The 2006 motors are called Series 1 engines and like you said in the higher HP engines some did blow up. Remember these are maxed out two stroke engines and like all high HP engines if something is not right they will eat themselves to death. Piston seizures with rods thrown through blocks are not uncommon especially in the 300 HP versions. Everything must be in spec as Yamaha service says or you could have a BIG problem and parts for these are astronomically expensive. Early engines had oil injection pumps that were calibrated to delivery too much oil and this caused mis-firing and plug fouling. These engines must also be warmed up for a rather long time when they are first started cold. Idling and slow speed running for at least 15 minutes is needed to ensure they dont cold seize when the thermostats open for the first time. They replace these pumps with new ones for free if the owned took it to a dealer.If it blows up badly most engines get sold off for parts because of this. So here is what I recommend for you. Do some research and find out what the best Yamaha dealer for service is in your area. Go and talk to them and talk to the tech that will be working on it. Do they have the computer software, PC, connection cords so they can read the end codes etc. If they dont have this walk away because they dont know what they are doing. Once you are confident then ask the to check that updates have been done and then to do a complete service job. You will be happy then. If you dont do the above it could cost you a fortune and in the end you may no end up with an engine.",Correct the powerhead I purchased did not come with the flywheel. Part is no longer available but there are a few on eBay. +"Seems I have read somewhere...probably here that the 2.6 litre is great, but the bigger one might be problematic. Considering a boat with a 2006 3.3litre that claims low hours and well maintained. Any known trouble issues with the 2006 200 HP V Max ? +Thanks.","Interesting. A 15 minute warmup sounds like something I would be unable to do. I'd be using the boat as a bit of a runabout with 5 minute jaunts between the island I live on and where I park my car. Are many boats this cold blooded? We have a 5.7 litre Cobalt that has been doing the 10 minute run (dock to dock) since 2000 and runs like new. +I take it that the 200HP 3.3 isn't considered one of the high HP editions that is prone to blow up?","Interesting. A 15 minute warmup sounds like something I would be unable to do. I'd be using the boat as a bit of a runabout with 5 minute jaunts between the island I live on and where I park my car. Are many boats this cold blooded? We have a 5.7 litre Cobalt that has been doing the 10 minute run (dock to dock) since 2000 and runs like new. +I take it that the 200HP 3.3 isn't considered one of the high HP editions that is prone to blow up?","Thanks for the answers. + +Talked to the owner, he said that when it rains, and he touches some metal +in certain spots, he gets shocked. +So I'm guessing there's a short somewhere?" +"Seems I have read somewhere...probably here that the 2.6 litre is great, but the bigger one might be problematic. Considering a boat with a 2006 3.3litre that claims low hours and well maintained. Any known trouble issues with the 2006 200 HP V Max ? +Thanks.","The difference here is the state of tune of the engine. Your 5.7 litre 4 stroke GM car engine makes about a real 220 hp although depending on the year its probably rated for 260. So it makes 220 with almost 6 litres of displacement while the Yamaha is making 300 HP with only 3.3 litres. So the engine with the higher state of tune means it turns more RPM, has a higher compression, more radical valve and ignition timing and is lighter etc. The thermal requirements will be very different as well remembering that a two stroke fires on every revolution while Mr Gm fires every second time with a cooling cycle in between. So what I'm saying is that if everything is right and to spec as above the Yamaha is a reliable high performance engine but will need different maintenance than your current engine. The 200HP engine is in between and if you do as I say above, you will love it. Personally I would avoid the 250/300 unless you really need the competitive power.","The difference here is the state of tune of the engine. Your 5.7 litre 4 stroke GM car engine makes about a real 220 hp although depending on the year its probably rated for 260. So it makes 220 with almost 6 litres of displacement while the Yamaha is making 300 HP with only 3.3 litres. So the engine with the higher state of tune means it turns more RPM, has a higher compression, more radical valve and ignition timing and is lighter etc. The thermal requirements will be very different as well remembering that a two stroke fires on every revolution while Mr Gm fires every second time with a cooling cycle in between. So what I'm saying is that if everything is right and to spec as above the Yamaha is a reliable high performance engine but will need different maintenance than your current engine. The 200HP engine is in between and if you do as I say above, you will love it. Personally I would avoid the 250/300 unless you really need the competitive power.",Never mind all. Got it figured out +"I am considering buying a Mastercraft Barefoot 200 to ski behind. It is a 1992 model and I believe it is in clean condition. Price is decent for this model. The motor is a 1984 however. Certainly older than I'd like, but i'll keep an open mind. Were these good motors? Did they get decent fuel economy compared to a motor from 1992 or 2002? +Are parts widely available? Any weaks spots? What is the best year for a Yamaha 200? + +Thanks.","Most of your questions/concerns cannot be accurately answered because the engine is over 30 years old. How good it runs or how poorly it runs is proportional to how good or how poorly it has been maintained. Parts will not be easy to come by because the original parts have been superseded numerous times over 30 years. + +No such answer exists to what is best year of yamaha. The engine is what it is....how it consistently performs is directly proportional to how well its maintained. + +I get the feeling you are are not familiar with outboard mechanics. If Im correct, I suggest passing on this engine bc much of the service and maintenance you'll need to do yourself.","Most of your questions/concerns cannot be accurately answered because the engine is over 30 years old. How good it runs or how poorly it runs is proportional to how good or how poorly it has been maintained. Parts will not be easy to come by because the original parts have been superseded numerous times over 30 years. + +No such answer exists to what is best year of yamaha. The engine is what it is....how it consistently performs is directly proportional to how well its maintained. + +I get the feeling you are are not familiar with outboard mechanics. If Im correct, I suggest passing on this engine bc much of the service and maintenance you'll need to do yourself.","You will likely be amazed at how much extra room you get with a motor extension, and normally they will improve running performance and handling. Several firms make outboard motor extensions for different size boats. Mine is an Armstrong. You can combine that with a manual or hydraulic jack plate, which will allow you to move the motor up and down. As Kim stated, you will need to get longer cables and possibly a longer wiring harness (or if you are really good at wiring, make your own extension.) + +For optimum cruising performance, the anti-cavitation plate on your engine should be even with the lowest point on your transom for a transom mounted engine. However, for every 12 inches the engine is set off the transom, the anti-cavitation plate should be one inch higher. If you want to tool around in shallow water, or you are often grounding on sand bars, a hydraulic jack plate is invaluable. Just set it so that it will not normally allow the water intake ports n your engine to come out of the water. + +One other thing. A motor extension puts more stress on your transom. The amount of stress is probably geometrically proportional to the length of offset. So if you plan to make your own motor extension, you should consider adding reinforcement plates to your transom." +"I am considering buying a Mastercraft Barefoot 200 to ski behind. It is a 1992 model and I believe it is in clean condition. Price is decent for this model. The motor is a 1984 however. Certainly older than I'd like, but i'll keep an open mind. Were these good motors? Did they get decent fuel economy compared to a motor from 1992 or 2002? +Are parts widely available? Any weaks spots? What is the best year for a Yamaha 200? + +Thanks.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Most of your questions/concerns cannot be accurately answered because the engine is over 30 years old. How good it runs or how poorly it runs is proportional to how good or how poorly it has been maintained. Parts will not be easy to come by because the original parts have been superseded numerous times over 30 years. + +No such answer exists to what is best year of yamaha. The engine is what it is....how it consistently performs is directly proportional to how well its maintained. + +I get the feeling you are are not familiar with outboard mechanics. If Im correct, I suggest passing on this engine bc much of the service and maintenance you'll need to do yourself. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, you are correct that I am not experienced in maintaining an outboard, however I do have considerable car maintenance experience over the last 38 years. Currently I am working on a 1970 Evinrude Fastwin 18HP as my first boat repair project , and am quite enjoying seeing the build quality of it. I guess my real question is how much more efficient are two strokes from the 90's vs early 80's. I have a Tohatsu 90 HP on another boat that is a 2014 direct injection, and while it seems quite efficient, it does not have the snap of my friend's carbureted Mercury 75HP. + +I still might be interested in the older powered 92 Mastercraft if the rest of the boat is in VG condition and factor in the price of a good used and healthy 175-200 HP outboard. All the outboard Mastercrafts came with Yamaha power from what I can see. I don't know what year they went with fuel injection. +Thanks for the reply.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Most of your questions/concerns cannot be accurately answered because the engine is over 30 years old. How good it runs or how poorly it runs is proportional to how good or how poorly it has been maintained. Parts will not be easy to come by because the original parts have been superseded numerous times over 30 years. + +No such answer exists to what is best year of yamaha. The engine is what it is....how it consistently performs is directly proportional to how well its maintained. + +I get the feeling you are are not familiar with outboard mechanics. If Im correct, I suggest passing on this engine bc much of the service and maintenance you'll need to do yourself. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, you are correct that I am not experienced in maintaining an outboard, however I do have considerable car maintenance experience over the last 38 years. Currently I am working on a 1970 Evinrude Fastwin 18HP as my first boat repair project , and am quite enjoying seeing the build quality of it. I guess my real question is how much more efficient are two strokes from the 90's vs early 80's. I have a Tohatsu 90 HP on another boat that is a 2014 direct injection, and while it seems quite efficient, it does not have the snap of my friend's carbureted Mercury 75HP. + +I still might be interested in the older powered 92 Mastercraft if the rest of the boat is in VG condition and factor in the price of a good used and healthy 175-200 HP outboard. All the outboard Mastercrafts came with Yamaha power from what I can see. I don't know what year they went with fuel injection. +Thanks for the reply.",Now im getting water in the oil just replaced head +"I am considering buying a Mastercraft Barefoot 200 to ski behind. It is a 1992 model and I believe it is in clean condition. Price is decent for this model. The motor is a 1984 however. Certainly older than I'd like, but i'll keep an open mind. Were these good motors? Did they get decent fuel economy compared to a motor from 1992 or 2002? +Are parts widely available? Any weaks spots? What is the best year for a Yamaha 200? + +Thanks.","Maximum fuel consumption (g/hr) at WOT for comparable 200hp: +2002: 21 +1992: 19 +1984: 22","Maximum fuel consumption (g/hr) at WOT for comparable 200hp: +2002: 21 +1992: 19 +1984: 22","Six individual carburetors. + +Before the engine was painted, it had all the original Yamaha stickers + +I will send you a picture of the cowling" +"I am considering buying a Mastercraft Barefoot 200 to ski behind. It is a 1992 model and I believe it is in clean condition. Price is decent for this model. The motor is a 1984 however. Certainly older than I'd like, but i'll keep an open mind. Were these good motors? Did they get decent fuel economy compared to a motor from 1992 or 2002? +Are parts widely available? Any weaks spots? What is the best year for a Yamaha 200? + +Thanks.","From reading various threads, looks like that HPDI V6 is quite a great motor. Wonder what one in good shape would cost?","From reading various threads, looks like that HPDI V6 is quite a great motor. Wonder what one in good shape would cost?","As you mentioned you bought the motor brand new... Contact the dealer and tell them you are not sure how this prop will perform given your load and you want to take it out and run it with that prop to see what happens or tell them they can take the boat and run it and see what happens. The dealer who sold you that engine obviously want's to make you happy (and service it for years to come). They will usually tell you to run the boat, don't ding the prop, and if stock performance isn't where is should be they'll replace it with another free of charge until you find the correct prop for your application. A quality dealer will let you swap props over and over until you find the right one for your boat. It's either that or they can spend their time trying different props to reach the correct WOT RPM. They have better things to do than that." +"I am considering buying a Mastercraft Barefoot 200 to ski behind. It is a 1992 model and I believe it is in clean condition. Price is decent for this model. The motor is a 1984 however. Certainly older than I'd like, but i'll keep an open mind. Were these good motors? Did they get decent fuel economy compared to a motor from 1992 or 2002? +Are parts widely available? Any weaks spots? What is the best year for a Yamaha 200? + +Thanks.",Old yamaha motors are still as good as the newer ones if they were looked after .... the 200hp has always been one of my fav ... test the compression it is the only way you will be able to tell what condition it is in ....,Old yamaha motors are still as good as the newer ones if they were looked after .... the 200hp has always been one of my fav ... test the compression it is the only way you will be able to tell what condition it is in ....,"racerone said: + + + + Material does NOT matter for that application.----Stainless / brass / galvanized will all work just fine here. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks! Bought Stainless." +"I am considering buying a Mastercraft Barefoot 200 to ski behind. It is a 1992 model and I believe it is in clean condition. Price is decent for this model. The motor is a 1984 however. Certainly older than I'd like, but i'll keep an open mind. Were these good motors? Did they get decent fuel economy compared to a motor from 1992 or 2002? +Are parts widely available? Any weaks spots? What is the best year for a Yamaha 200? + +Thanks.","These old Yamaha motors were great motors with very few issues such as electrical problems. To make this motor work for you , you have to ascertain if the motor is in good shape so a compression test is needed. Get a compression gauge, disconnect all of the spark plug wires, open the throttle to wide open by pressing in the over ride gear selection, remove all of the spark plugs and do one cylinder at a time. You need to have 90 to 115 psi on each cylinder and the pressure should be even. Best with no more than 15 lbs difference. If its 75 or lower in one or more cylinders then its tear down time unfortunately. If you continue to use the engine it will fail and do very serious damage to the engine making it not economical to fix $$$.If its good then remove the carbs and have them professionally cleaned and adjusted to factory specs.Remove the gear box and install new seals and water pump impeller. Remove and replace the thermostats. Clean the fuel tank if its in the boat or if its and portable one, replace ALL OF THE FUEL FILTERS. Install new NGK-B7HS spark plugs and fire it up. Now you have an engine that you know is in good shape with no guesses. Even paying for this work its a tiny fraction for what new motors cost of what it will cost you if you just hope its OK and then you have to rebuild.","These old Yamaha motors were great motors with very few issues such as electrical problems. To make this motor work for you , you have to ascertain if the motor is in good shape so a compression test is needed. Get a compression gauge, disconnect all of the spark plug wires, open the throttle to wide open by pressing in the over ride gear selection, remove all of the spark plugs and do one cylinder at a time. You need to have 90 to 115 psi on each cylinder and the pressure should be even. Best with no more than 15 lbs difference. If its 75 or lower in one or more cylinders then its tear down time unfortunately. If you continue to use the engine it will fail and do very serious damage to the engine making it not economical to fix $$$.If its good then remove the carbs and have them professionally cleaned and adjusted to factory specs.Remove the gear box and install new seals and water pump impeller. Remove and replace the thermostats. Clean the fuel tank if its in the boat or if its and portable one, replace ALL OF THE FUEL FILTERS. Install new NGK-B7HS spark plugs and fire it up. Now you have an engine that you know is in good shape with no guesses. Even paying for this work its a tiny fraction for what new motors cost of what it will cost you if you just hope its OK and then you have to rebuild.","If not in a marine application, why the 24 vdc? Just curious. + +There are many different types of float switches available for commercial and residential use, if that works for your application. +I'm not sure, but they may not care whether it's AC or DC current! + +Just a thought!" +"I am considering buying a Mastercraft Barefoot 200 to ski behind. It is a 1992 model and I believe it is in clean condition. Price is decent for this model. The motor is a 1984 however. Certainly older than I'd like, but i'll keep an open mind. Were these good motors? Did they get decent fuel economy compared to a motor from 1992 or 2002? +Are parts widely available? Any weaks spots? What is the best year for a Yamaha 200? + +Thanks.",Thanks for the detailed response. I looked over the parts pricing on an online source. So many parts are unavailable. I'll factor the cost of good used power into this boat. I am hoping to see it on Monday.,Thanks for the detailed response. I looked over the parts pricing on an online source. So many parts are unavailable. I'll factor the cost of good used power into this boat. I am hoping to see it on Monday.,Some of the Yamaha's have a water port on bottom side of lower unit above prop. If so duck tape over hole when running on muffs. +"My 1998 Yamaha outboard motor 200 2stroke has very little power and is a gas hog, is there anything we can do to get more power out of it and better gas mileage. It's on a pontoon and gets about 1 mile to the gal and will go 15 miles per hour full out. Please help! Thanks","Reply back with complete model number. + +Speed (mph) is a poor reference tool to use when troubleshooting. Simply because speed can vary to a great degree caused by numerous variables. Rpms is a more valued tool you'll want to focus on. 15mph does sound very low for a 200hp. However, speed is relative to the load the engine is pushing. For all I know your pontoon weighs 2 tons. + +So, how many rpms are you seeing at WOT? I believe the spec rpm range for your engine at WOT is 4500-5500. I would guess from what little you've detailed that 15mph is not producing 5500. But I prefer not to guess. + +90% of the time when an outboard is struggling it's related to the fuel system....whether its fuel, filters, hoses, primer bulb, carbs, etc. So I'd start troubleshooting there.","Reply back with complete model number. + +Speed (mph) is a poor reference tool to use when troubleshooting. Simply because speed can vary to a great degree caused by numerous variables. Rpms is a more valued tool you'll want to focus on. 15mph does sound very low for a 200hp. However, speed is relative to the load the engine is pushing. For all I know your pontoon weighs 2 tons. + +So, how many rpms are you seeing at WOT? I believe the spec rpm range for your engine at WOT is 4500-5500. I would guess from what little you've detailed that 15mph is not producing 5500. But I prefer not to guess. + +90% of the time when an outboard is struggling it's related to the fuel system....whether its fuel, filters, hoses, primer bulb, carbs, etc. So I'd start troubleshooting there.","It maybe internally leaking. Unless you an find a hydraulic place or a good marine shop to repair it. May just as well get another used or new one. These trim pumps can be costly to fix. +." +"My 1998 Yamaha outboard motor 200 2stroke has very little power and is a gas hog, is there anything we can do to get more power out of it and better gas mileage. It's on a pontoon and gets about 1 mile to the gal and will go 15 miles per hour full out. Please help! Thanks",If its on a pontoon it will probably have a completely wrong prop on it.,If its on a pontoon it will probably have a completely wrong prop on it.,"I haven't had the boat very long, I bought it from a guy claimed it needed carbs cleaned I took it out then clean the carbs and it continued to do the same thing. That's when I noticed it got low on gas and hit a wave it took off. Checked vents to tanks. I did a compression test when I first got it. But off hand I can't remember the number but it seemed to test fine. I just checked to make sure it was sparking I didn't check the gap. the water pump is pushing water out so I figured it was fine." +"My 1998 Yamaha outboard motor 200 2stroke has very little power and is a gas hog, is there anything we can do to get more power out of it and better gas mileage. It's on a pontoon and gets about 1 mile to the gal and will go 15 miles per hour full out. Please help! Thanks","connemaraisland said: + + + + If its on a pontoon it will probably have a completely wrong prop on it. + +Click to expand... + + +I'm guessing the subject matter he's inquiring about isn't top priority. As he never responded to my reply I posted a few weeks ago.","connemaraisland said: + + + + If its on a pontoon it will probably have a completely wrong prop on it. + +Click to expand... + + +I'm guessing the subject matter he's inquiring about isn't top priority. As he never responded to my reply I posted a few weeks ago.","Sorry, I’m not familiar with the F60; I assume it’s a four stroke. I know the 2 stroke models rely on both fuel and ignition timing advances for acceleration. My 2 stroke goes from (I think) 8 ATDC to 23 ATDC at full throttle. You might check your timing advance if you determine that it may have a similar design. + +thanks, + +Si" +I just test dipped my motor today on my project boat. On the hose you can shift into forward to neutral to reverse and vice versa. In the water today It was stiff shifting back to neutral from forward and as well as from reverse. A couple of times it passed straight through neutral to reverse. Any help would be appreciated!,Year and model?,Year and model?,"Thank you, cable o there was a foot too long." +I just test dipped my motor today on my project boat. On the hose you can shift into forward to neutral to reverse and vice versa. In the water today It was stiff shifting back to neutral from forward and as well as from reverse. A couple of times it passed straight through neutral to reverse. Any help would be appreciated!,Sorry I thought I included that. It's a 2000 Yamaha 115 xtry.,Sorry I thought I included that. It's a 2000 Yamaha 115 xtry.,I believe that motor has both a low oil sensor switch and an over heat sensor. Check your oil level and make sure it's good. Then find the sensor and check the connections. Do the same for the overheat sensor. +I just test dipped my motor today on my project boat. On the hose you can shift into forward to neutral to reverse and vice versa. In the water today It was stiff shifting back to neutral from forward and as well as from reverse. A couple of times it passed straight through neutral to reverse. Any help would be appreciated!,"First, Look right above the lower unit at the shift rod. I know Yamaha improved the rod for rot, But I always check it. If it looks like two pencil points touching, there is your problem. + +Second, if the shift rod looks fine, Look under the intake of the power head and make sure the shift rod pivot is not broken. + +Third, disconnect the cable at the engine and see if the shift slide moves freely. + +Fourth, If everything above is good, pull the lower unit off and make sure the splined coupler that is welded to the shift shaft has not broken loose.","First, Look right above the lower unit at the shift rod. I know Yamaha improved the rod for rot, But I always check it. If it looks like two pencil points touching, there is your problem. + +Second, if the shift rod looks fine, Look under the intake of the power head and make sure the shift rod pivot is not broken. + +Third, disconnect the cable at the engine and see if the shift slide moves freely. + +Fourth, If everything above is good, pull the lower unit off and make sure the splined coupler that is welded to the shift shaft has not broken loose.","Hey, PAL, + +Thought I would add a little chart showing battery charge state. + + + + + + + +As you can see, 12 VDC output of a ""fully charged battery"" is low, actually less than 50% charged......." +I just test dipped my motor today on my project boat. On the hose you can shift into forward to neutral to reverse and vice versa. In the water today It was stiff shifting back to neutral from forward and as well as from reverse. A couple of times it passed straight through neutral to reverse. Any help would be appreciated!,Great thanks for the info. When I get home and check it out I'll let you know! Hopefully it will be an easy fix!,Great thanks for the info. When I get home and check it out I'll let you know! Hopefully it will be an easy fix!,"yeah your right i was just looking for the quick fix so that i could have the boat on the water catfishing tomorro night but ive come to the realization thats not going to happen so i pulled the starter and i believe solenoid pn 89986054. behind them i found a small switch with a sheared off black wire as well as a sheared off yellow wire with a red line. most likely the black is ground but ive seen that yellow with the red stripe all over. so im absolutely lost now im going to need a manual or an expert, i can wire and troubleshoot an mv-22 osprey all day and night but this little 2 cyl 2 stroke has me stumped = (.....Its got me thinking cant i just bypass the electric start all togethor and just make it a manual start again? i mean its not going to effect the steering or driveablillity so why not?" +I just test dipped my motor today on my project boat. On the hose you can shift into forward to neutral to reverse and vice versa. In the water today It was stiff shifting back to neutral from forward and as well as from reverse. A couple of times it passed straight through neutral to reverse. Any help would be appreciated!,Check your idle speed If its set too high it will be hard to get out of gear and into neutral.,Check your idle speed If its set too high it will be hard to get out of gear and into neutral.,Have you verified that the CDI is outputting voltage to the ignition coil? +"Warning to all about marineengineerings.com +We have bought a motor from this company but never received it. The contact broke off after the payment. Neither our embassy nor our bank could help. The police in jakarta has not even replied. So I warn everyone about this fraudulent company. !!! +It looks like a serious company, it is not a fake but a real fraud !!!",Just think of the money you didnt save.,Just think of the money you didnt save.,What you do is..........Get a new starter and replace yours before you do some expensive damage. +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!",Were you experiencing high temp alarm before you installed this new pump?,Were you experiencing high temp alarm before you installed this new pump?,"Yes ,inline check valve. Double check entire fuel system from inside of tank to carbs for air leaks,loose connections, obstructions,collapsing suction side of fuel line,vent obstruction? You said this happened after main filter change,Are we talking about the water/ fuel separator mounted on transom. If yes, did you fill filter with fuel before you installed it? Are you using proper starting technique . Pumping bulb till firm,Turning key to on,pressing in key 1 to3 count to activate choke solenoid,then turning key to start,pressing in key till she smooths out?" +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","Thanks for the reply. Yes, it was overheating before the pump replacement. The impeller was deteriorated.","Thanks for the reply. Yes, it was overheating before the pump replacement. The impeller was deteriorated.",thank you for your replies. +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","Since the water pump is working (pissing) at low rpms before you throttle up, it could be that the woodruff key is not properly set into the shaft. At low rpms the key is able to grab the impeller slot, but once you increase rpms the key is slipping out of impeller slot. + +Has the keys shaft slot been messed with in the past? The key itself is replaced with every new pump kit. But if the shaft slot has been gauged in some way that allows the key to sit deeper into the slot this would be a problem. The key should be snug in the shaft slot, but never hammered in so much that a few millimeters aren't raised above shaft. + +Id drop the LU and have a look. We know the impeller works bc the shaft is turning it at low rpms. But not at high rpms.","Since the water pump is working (pissing) at low rpms before you throttle up, it could be that the woodruff key is not properly set into the shaft. At low rpms the key is able to grab the impeller slot, but once you increase rpms the key is slipping out of impeller slot. + +Has the keys shaft slot been messed with in the past? The key itself is replaced with every new pump kit. But if the shaft slot has been gauged in some way that allows the key to sit deeper into the slot this would be a problem. The key should be snug in the shaft slot, but never hammered in so much that a few millimeters aren't raised above shaft. + +Id drop the LU and have a look. We know the impeller works bc the shaft is turning it at low rpms. But not at high rpms.","Let's back up a minute. What engine does this wire harnes come from? (I think most of those early Inca's had something like a Crusader 220, which is equivalent to a GM 305.) You will likely need to identify the function of each wire coming out of the wiring harnes from the engine, based on its color, or based on what it is connected to on the engine. If it is an old Crusader or GM, that will be pretty simple to do. They are not very complicated. Most of that stuff is posted on the web or the owners manual for your particular engine. Let me know if it's a Crusader, because I think I still have the wiring diagram somewhere in my files. + +I would start by tracing each of the wires in picture 1 back to the engine to make sure nothing has been spliced into them and that the color coming out of the engine is the same color coming into your console. + +Picture 2 looks like it is just the brace for the helm. I see no reason you can't temporarily remove it to get more working space. + +Pictures 3 & 4 - Replace that plug with a new round one that has the same number or more pins, and has a moisture seal all around - at the plug interface and on each end where the wires enter the plug. Use plenty of liquid tape (neoprene) on each end to form a good moisture barrier. Before removing that plug map each of the wires in both directions and determine it's function. Write it down and take plenty of pictures. + +Your biggest challenge is going to be wiring up the ignition switch correctly so it incorporates the kill switch on your safety lanyard, and your alarm buzzer. If those two items are currently working, then simply duplicate the way they are currently wired. Also, if you have a tachometer that is working on the current engine, I would leave that alone unless the wire is in bad shape. + +Finally, before digging into this project, do yourself a favor. Get down next to the engine and get a wad of paper towels and rub them over the bottom of the oil pan. See if you have any oil on the paper towels. These engines were notorious for rusted out oil pans. If you see oil on the paper towels, use your fingers to gently probe the bottom of the oil pan. If it is soft, or highly scaled, you will likely need to pull the engine and replace the oil pan. If not, then look for the source of the leaking oil. It may be just the valve covers, which were also notorious for leaking. For most engines, they make a cast aluminum oil pan that will not rust out." +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","I'm glad you mentioned that: I double and triple checked the impeller on the key as I thought that was likely. The key is intact and fitted in the slot in the impeller, with no sign of wear. I visited an outboard mechanic today with the lower end and he verified everything looks great. He's stumped as well. Suggested replacing the thermostat as it hasnt been replaced lately, even though I tested it last year and it seemed to function as normal. I wouldnt think that would affect the tell-tale, but what the Hey, I'll give it a try. +Thanks again for your replies and ideas.","I'm glad you mentioned that: I double and triple checked the impeller on the key as I thought that was likely. The key is intact and fitted in the slot in the impeller, with no sign of wear. I visited an outboard mechanic today with the lower end and he verified everything looks great. He's stumped as well. Suggested replacing the thermostat as it hasnt been replaced lately, even though I tested it last year and it seemed to function as normal. I wouldnt think that would affect the tell-tale, but what the Hey, I'll give it a try. +Thanks again for your replies and ideas.","I see you replaced all fuel lines including the pick lines that run down into the tank. There isn't by any chance small fuel filters on the end of pick-up lines that sit in the bottom of the fuel tanks is there? Some manufacturers put those little filters on the ends of those pick-up lines and if someone were to replace the fuel lines they may stick those stupid little filters on them again. If they are there, pull them off or cut them out. I had a friend who chased a fuel starvation ghost for months that would come and go. It turned out to be those stupid little filters on the pick-up lines (that NEVER, ever should have been put there as there is no need for them). While underway they would gradually clog with particulate in the tank until they caused a fuel-starved shut-down. Then, once shut down with gas sloshing around for a while some of the the crap that clogged the filter would fall off and all would run well again for a while until it found its way back and created the same issue over and and over. Check for those stupid filters and get rid of them if they are there... There are plenty more, larger filters throughout the system that will deal with anything in the tank." +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!",Looked for a blown head gasket ???-------Try a compression test.,Looked for a blown head gasket ???-------Try a compression test.,"Yes. + +Not hard at all." +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!",Oh geezus....I hope thats not it. Ill pick up a tester and try it though. Thanks,Oh geezus....I hope thats not it. Ill pick up a tester and try it though. Thanks,"Try pumping primer bulb while accelerating, If condition improves you have a fuel restriction or a fuel pump issue" +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","Hi All, +thought I'd update as my problem still persists. Ive done extensive diagnosis and it seems the water stops pumping when the motor rises up on plane. I've tried it many times over the last few days and its always the same; no problem at idle right up through fast cruising, but as soon as the boat planes up, the tell tale stops and it overheats. Same thing at in neutral; fine until I lift he motor to a certain height, but with the intake still well under water. I've replaced the water pump with all gaskets and thermostat. Its been checked and double checked by a local well respected mechanic. It seems that on plane, the water pump is above the water level; am I correct that the pump should be sucking the water up at this time? Any reason it wouldn't be? Anyone seen this condition? My family loves being on the boat but theyre getting bored with headway speed all summer. Thanks!","Hi All, +thought I'd update as my problem still persists. Ive done extensive diagnosis and it seems the water stops pumping when the motor rises up on plane. I've tried it many times over the last few days and its always the same; no problem at idle right up through fast cruising, but as soon as the boat planes up, the tell tale stops and it overheats. Same thing at in neutral; fine until I lift he motor to a certain height, but with the intake still well under water. I've replaced the water pump with all gaskets and thermostat. Its been checked and double checked by a local well respected mechanic. It seems that on plane, the water pump is above the water level; am I correct that the pump should be sucking the water up at this time? Any reason it wouldn't be? Anyone seen this condition? My family loves being on the boat but theyre getting bored with headway speed all summer. Thanks!","Did the leak check with soapy water and detected no leaks. So, I have eliminated the head, head gasket, cylinder sleeve, and exhaust/water jacket as a source of water intrusion. I guess the next step is pulling the power head to check out the casing and exhaust manifold gaskets and the crankshaft seal. A leak in the manifold or casing gaskets should affect more than just #6 cylinder I would think. However a lower crank case seal would more than likely just show up on #6 so I'm laying odds that I may have a bad lower crank shaft seal however the motor doesn't seem like it sits low enough in the water to expose the lower seal to water. +Does anyone have any other suggestions before the power head comes off?" +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","Natter said: + + + + It seems that on plane, the water pump is above the water level; am I correct that the pump should be sucking the water up at this time? Any reason it wouldn't be? Anyone seen this condition? My family loves being on the boat but theyre getting bored with headway speed all summer. Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, the pump ""sucks"" or turns whenever the crankshaft is turning. And since the impeller is notched to the crankshaft via the woodruff key, it also turns. The crankshaft is turning at all times when the engine is running. + +So if I've read you correctly, when your in neutral with the engine running you've got a steady stream of water exiting the tell tale? And by the way, yamaha 2 strokes have a strong pisser, so to speak. Is this stream strong or weak? And then while still in neutral with engine running, you trim up the engine and the engine stops pissing? Do I have you correct?","Natter said: + + + + It seems that on plane, the water pump is above the water level; am I correct that the pump should be sucking the water up at this time? Any reason it wouldn't be? Anyone seen this condition? My family loves being on the boat but theyre getting bored with headway speed all summer. Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, the pump ""sucks"" or turns whenever the crankshaft is turning. And since the impeller is notched to the crankshaft via the woodruff key, it also turns. The crankshaft is turning at all times when the engine is running. + +So if I've read you correctly, when your in neutral with the engine running you've got a steady stream of water exiting the tell tale? And by the way, yamaha 2 strokes have a strong pisser, so to speak. Is this stream strong or weak? And then while still in neutral with engine running, you trim up the engine and the engine stops pissing? Do I have you correct?",The best thing to do is glass over everything. To fill the gaps you can use the spray foam and shave it level and glass over it. Do the research your gonna need to prime the wood for the glass to take hold get lots of mixing cups and a couple of bubble rollers. Then I just used a high quality acrylic latex deck paint with grit for a non slip surface. +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","ClassiqAQ, thanks for the reply. Yes, thats it exactly. I raise it in slow increments and and a point, seemingly when the actual pump is higher than the water level, the pee stream dies off. If I lower it immediately, it starts streaming again. The intake is under water the whole time. Same while under way; streaming fine while pushing along at mid throttle, but as soon as the engine planes off, the pisser stops. If I back right off the throttle, stream returns and no overheating. If I dont, she overheats. +On plane, the water is at the level of the anti ventilation plate, below the pump, right?","ClassiqAQ, thanks for the reply. Yes, thats it exactly. I raise it in slow increments and and a point, seemingly when the actual pump is higher than the water level, the pee stream dies off. If I lower it immediately, it starts streaming again. The intake is under water the whole time. Same while under way; streaming fine while pushing along at mid throttle, but as soon as the engine planes off, the pisser stops. If I back right off the throttle, stream returns and no overheating. If I dont, she overheats. +On plane, the water is at the level of the anti ventilation plate, below the pump, right?","2 start batteries and one house battery. + +Click to expand... + + + Most of us who stay on the hook overnight would not be able to sufficiently power our house loads with a single house battery. + + Take that otherwise space for a second cranking battery and install multiple house bank batteries, and give yourself some AMP Hours!" +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","Post a pic of your setup, this can help identify the issue a bit easier ....","Post a pic of your setup, this can help identify the issue a bit easier ....","Port motor 150x6 comp. +Stbd.motor Left bank130# 155# 140# +Right bank 150# all 3 + +Pulled the plugs the bottom 2 where the oil pumps attached +has excessive oil fouling." +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","Natter said: + + + + ClassiqAQ, thanks for the reply. Yes, thats it exactly. I raise it in slow increments and and a point, seemingly when the actual pump is higher than the water level, the pee stream dies off. If I lower it immediately, it starts streaming again. The intake is under water the whole time. Same while under way; streaming fine while pushing along at mid throttle, but as soon as the engine planes off, the pisser stops. If I back right off the throttle, stream returns and no overheating. If I dont, she overheats. +On plane, the water is at the level of the anti ventilation plate, below the pump, right? + +Click to expand... + + + +Correct. The water pump and housing are the highest mounted component on the lower unit. Because of it's mounted position on lower unit it actually sits in the mid section above the AV plate. Example 1st pic below. + + + +Pictured below is the water pump kit for your motor, 2003 90TLRB. I've got a red arrow pointing at the base plate. It is possible that when you installed this kit the base plate was installed upside down? The housing would still be able to be screwed down with the 4 bolts because their holes would still line up with the housing bolt holes, so to would the crankshaft hole. But if this plate was upside down, the cut-out water inlet grooves would deflect water instead of allowing water to run through. But at idle when crankshaft is at its lowest rpms, I could see the pump being able to pull in enough water to push through pisser. + + + +Have you tried running engine at high rpms without trimming up engine? Curious to know if engine is pissing. That would tell us if the issue is being caused by crankshaft rpms or not. Please let us know.","Natter said: + + + + ClassiqAQ, thanks for the reply. Yes, thats it exactly. I raise it in slow increments and and a point, seemingly when the actual pump is higher than the water level, the pee stream dies off. If I lower it immediately, it starts streaming again. The intake is under water the whole time. Same while under way; streaming fine while pushing along at mid throttle, but as soon as the engine planes off, the pisser stops. If I back right off the throttle, stream returns and no overheating. If I dont, she overheats. +On plane, the water is at the level of the anti ventilation plate, below the pump, right? + +Click to expand... + + + +Correct. The water pump and housing are the highest mounted component on the lower unit. Because of it's mounted position on lower unit it actually sits in the mid section above the AV plate. Example 1st pic below. + + + +Pictured below is the water pump kit for your motor, 2003 90TLRB. I've got a red arrow pointing at the base plate. It is possible that when you installed this kit the base plate was installed upside down? The housing would still be able to be screwed down with the 4 bolts because their holes would still line up with the housing bolt holes, so to would the crankshaft hole. But if this plate was upside down, the cut-out water inlet grooves would deflect water instead of allowing water to run through. But at idle when crankshaft is at its lowest rpms, I could see the pump being able to pull in enough water to push through pisser. + + + +Have you tried running engine at high rpms without trimming up engine? Curious to know if engine is pissing. That would tell us if the issue is being caused by crankshaft rpms or not. Please let us know.","The controller has three connections; Solar, Battery, Load. the loads are pretty small mostly just charging tablets and cell phones etc. No trolling motor. It's a sailboat that just has cabin for a night or two. All the lights including nav are LED powered by disposable batteries. So its mainly for my portable electroncs. Which unfortunately because of work I use a lot. It's not a huge draw but I'm constantly needing to recharge." +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","Thanks for the detailed reply. Yes, I'm very familiar with the water pump and its parts as I've had it apart many times, with success in years past. I'm fairly certain the plate is in correctly as I'm careful to replace the parts as I took them apart, and use an exploded diagram as a guide. Also, I believe the plate will only line up with the cavities below when installed right side up. I've had it checked by an outboard mechanic as well. I haven't replaced the plastic housing as it is in fine shape and that was confirmed by the mechanic. + The engine is pissing fine at idle and like a firehouse when revved in neutral. No problem either when cruising at mid throttle but not on plane. It seems to me that the pump is losing its prime when its above the water level. Does that make sense?","Thanks for the detailed reply. Yes, I'm very familiar with the water pump and its parts as I've had it apart many times, with success in years past. I'm fairly certain the plate is in correctly as I'm careful to replace the parts as I took them apart, and use an exploded diagram as a guide. Also, I believe the plate will only line up with the cavities below when installed right side up. I've had it checked by an outboard mechanic as well. I haven't replaced the plastic housing as it is in fine shape and that was confirmed by the mechanic. + The engine is pissing fine at idle and like a firehouse when revved in neutral. No problem either when cruising at mid throttle but not on plane. It seems to me that the pump is losing its prime when its above the water level. Does that make sense?","I was just wondering if anyone had actually taken it in, think I'll do it this summer" +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!",Is your cav plate in line with the bottom of your keel?,Is your cav plate in line with the bottom of your keel?,"Found sawdust looking crap in carb bowls; and disassembled fuel pump. FP diaphrams stiff but not torn. + +Jets and needles are getting brite & shiney in Berrymans Carb Soak. + +What about bleeding oil pump with new supply hose? Will run and udate post. + +Thanks" +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","Yes, I believe it is, more or less. We've run the boat for 14 years and this is a new development. Also, I can get the same result by slowly lifting the motor when in neutral. +Is there any part or gasket that could be the culprit that would cause the pump to stop drawing water when the water level is below the pump?","Yes, I believe it is, more or less. We've run the boat for 14 years and this is a new development. Also, I can get the same result by slowly lifting the motor when in neutral. +Is there any part or gasket that could be the culprit that would cause the pump to stop drawing water when the water level is below the pump?","racerone said: + + + + There won't be any pressure from pistons between the carburetors and reed valves !!-----Crankcase compression happen INSIDE the crankcase. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi and thanks, since the reed valves are ""normaly open"" there will be a slight time period with reverese flow before they actualy close. +During this short period the reverse flow will meet the oil flow coming out of the supply line +This oil flow will have the pressure of the Main Oil Pump and as long as the Main Oil Pressure Pump is higher than the reverse flow, the oil will still be supplied into the area between the throttle valve and the reed valve. + +Maybe it is for this very short period of time the reason for the check valve is installed + +If that would be correct I assume that if the check valve is stuck open, there will be a lower degree of lubrication due to that the oil flow must regain the distance in the hose where it have been ""pushed back"" by the reverese airflow.. + +Hmm it fels as we are getting somewhere here" +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","It could be that the pipe that pumps the water into the powerhead doesn't seat tightly, you can see it on the pic that ClassicAQ posted, also right next to the impeller cover there is a rubber type gasket between the exhaust area and the pump area ...","It could be that the pipe that pumps the water into the powerhead doesn't seat tightly, you can see it on the pic that ClassicAQ posted, also right next to the impeller cover there is a rubber type gasket between the exhaust area and the pump area ...",So the pump starts and then stops which I assume is normal.. does that mean the pump is good tho? +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","That gasket/grommet thing is new, and I'm fairly certain it fits snugly to the pipe. Again, it's pumping great when the motor is sitting down low in the water. Thanks for the ideas, keep em coming!","That gasket/grommet thing is new, and I'm fairly certain it fits snugly to the pipe. Again, it's pumping great when the motor is sitting down low in the water. Thanks for the ideas, keep em coming!","Ayuh,.... We see it All the time at iboats too... +It usually has to do with somebody lookin' at an ole OMC Stringer drive, or a Merc 470... Cheap of course... + +There's Nothin' you can say that'll steer 'em away for pizzin' their money into a bottomless pit..." +"I need help. I have a 2003 90 two stroke that overheats on plane. Yesterday I dropped it in the water and idled about 20 minutes through the back channel. Water was pumping great and no problems. Opened up to plane in the bay and immediately overheated, no water from the tell tale. Back down to idle and still no water pumping. Limped 50 yards to the mooring, steaming and buzzer sounding, shut it down. 5 minutes later I started it up and still not pumping water. 15 minutes later, started and pumping weakly. I figured the impeller was cooked so I pulled it apart and no problems, looks great it there; perfect impeller, housing, gaskets, everything. This is a new pump I put in last season, maybe 1 hour on it. Thermostat works fine as well as the pressure valve. Between this and the no power problems I'm ready to dump this POS. The mechanic went all through it last year and couldn't find anything wrong. Any ideas out there before I give up and sell this thing? +Thanks!","deejaycee_2000 said: + + + + Is your cav plate in line with the bottom of your keel? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes. But the engine height isn't a factor in this case bc the prop will ventilate before the intake loses flow over it. If that's what you were thinking. Before you tear it down again I'd get out and run it as I suggested, high rpms with engine down. The result will narrow down the cause.","deejaycee_2000 said: + + + + Is your cav plate in line with the bottom of your keel? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes. But the engine height isn't a factor in this case bc the prop will ventilate before the intake loses flow over it. If that's what you were thinking. Before you tear it down again I'd get out and run it as I suggested, high rpms with engine down. The result will narrow down the cause.","Well, OK - did you check that the timing marks line up when cylinder # 1 is at TDC? + +Possibly your fuel pick up tube in your tank is clogged. For a temporary fix, remove the fuel tank filler cap and blow low pressure compressed air back through the fuel line into the pick up tube. A permanent fix is to remove the pick up tube and clean the screen on the end of it. + +If you have a primer (pump up) bulb, inspect the check valve to make sure it is not stuck or clogged, or replace it. A quick check is to bypass the pump up bulb and see if she starts." +"new to the forum thx for having me. so my 50 hp starts right up idles great, after a few mins out on the water it's shakes really bad so I throttle down for a few mins and it will let me run down the river for a few more mins before it does it again. It never dies and idles great during that. thx in advance for the help",Yam has produced hundreds of 50hp models. Which one do you have?,Yam has produced hundreds of 50hp models. Which one do you have?,"yes, Is she running hot,need questions answered.Could be excessive scale inside of engine,salt.bad impeller,t-stats,head gasket failure" +"new to the forum thx for having me. so my 50 hp starts right up idles great, after a few mins out on the water it's shakes really bad so I throttle down for a few mins and it will let me run down the river for a few more mins before it does it again. It never dies and idles great during that. thx in advance for the help","sorry about that, it a 50etlj. so a 86 jet drive lower unit from what I read.","sorry about that, it a 50etlj. so a 86 jet drive lower unit from what I read.","Often what you will find inside looks to me to be a cross between sand a salt. It is, I presume, a combination of aluminium corrosion and residue left by the evaporated fuel. Carburettors generally have a couple of jets: a main jet and an idle jet. It is quite possible that your main jet is blocked so it will idle but when the throttle is open the main jet can't deliver the required fuel so it goes lean and stalls. + +Regards, +Stuart" +"new to the forum thx for having me. so my 50 hp starts right up idles great, after a few mins out on the water it's shakes really bad so I throttle down for a few mins and it will let me run down the river for a few more mins before it does it again. It never dies and idles great during that. thx in advance for the help","Oh boy, I don't know much about those jet drives. Go to www.yamahaoutboardparts.com and register as a member. That forum is solely for yamaha engines and there are a number of yamaha marine mechanics who are members that can help you out. When you make your initial post, be sure to include the complete year and model number of the engine.","Oh boy, I don't know much about those jet drives. Go to www.yamahaoutboardparts.com and register as a member. That forum is solely for yamaha engines and there are a number of yamaha marine mechanics who are members that can help you out. When you make your initial post, be sure to include the complete year and model number of the engine.","What should it test at? A certain voltage? + + Thank you for all the help!!" +"new to the forum thx for having me. so my 50 hp starts right up idles great, after a few mins out on the water it's shakes really bad so I throttle down for a few mins and it will let me run down the river for a few more mins before it does it again. It never dies and idles great during that. thx in advance for the help","Sound like it is starving for fuel, try pumping the primer bulb the moment it happens, could just be a dirty filter","Sound like it is starving for fuel, try pumping the primer bulb the moment it happens, could just be a dirty filter","Also, in some of the older boats they tied the neutral and the ground together. They have to be separated. in other words, you need to install a buss bar and move the grounds. I have had to do this on a few vessels." +"I have changed the thermostat and cleaned the pee hole motor still over heats and shuts done after a few minutes of running at full throttle , while will idle for hours. Changed impeller is a two stoke motor","Considering the engines age, there is good chance the cooling system has corrosion that is blocking the necessary passages needed for cooling the engine. Pull the head covers off and look at the condition of these passages. When you replaced the thermostat, what did the old stat look like? Because if it was in bad condition, such as corroded, that is a good indicator of how the cooling system looks.","Considering the engines age, there is good chance the cooling system has corrosion that is blocking the necessary passages needed for cooling the engine. Pull the head covers off and look at the condition of these passages. When you replaced the thermostat, what did the old stat look like? Because if it was in bad condition, such as corroded, that is a good indicator of how the cooling system looks.",Read post #2 again +"I have changed the thermostat and cleaned the pee hole motor still over heats and shuts done after a few minutes of running at full throttle , while will idle for hours. Changed impeller is a two stoke motor",When last did you change the actual impellar?,When last did you change the actual impellar?,"I couldn't find the fuel pump on + + + +site. + +Alan" +"Hi all. +I'm new into boating and would like a little advice please. +I purchased a nearly new rib and with it came a Yamaha 1981 15hp 15c 684cs 011453 + +Because my budget is tight, I was all up for giving it a paint job and service over the winter period . +Now I've discovered that it quite old , I lost confidence in it and after doing some searching I'm struggling to find parts like an impeller etc. +It seems to run great , but at 36 years old I'm worried it's way past it's best. +I have ittle experience with outboards so any advice will be appreciated. +Thanks","Pritchy said: + + + + I'm struggling to find parts like an impeller etc. + +Click to expand... + + +Well no reason to rid of it if it's running good. Just keep on on the preventative maintenance schedule. And if you can't confirm what maintenance had been performed by previous owner, best to assume no maintenance had been done. So that means replacing plugs, impeller, carb kit, LU oil, thermostat and gasket, fuel filter, grease points, etc. + +As far as finding parts, yes it will be difficult depending on the part. The parts in your motor have been superseded numerous times. Let's take the impeller from example. What I would do is call a yamaha OEM distributor of your choice, have your engine year/model number, and tell them what you need. They will be able to trace back the original part number and substitute it with a superseded part number. + +Finding a service manual from 1981 will be difficult. 1984 is the closest year I can find for a 15hp is here: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...ha-shop-manuals/717-1984-yamaha-9-9n-15n/file + +That manual should at least give you a general idea on how to replace/repair/troubleshoot. Good luck.","Pritchy said: + + + + I'm struggling to find parts like an impeller etc. + +Click to expand... + + +Well no reason to rid of it if it's running good. Just keep on on the preventative maintenance schedule. And if you can't confirm what maintenance had been performed by previous owner, best to assume no maintenance had been done. So that means replacing plugs, impeller, carb kit, LU oil, thermostat and gasket, fuel filter, grease points, etc. + +As far as finding parts, yes it will be difficult depending on the part. The parts in your motor have been superseded numerous times. Let's take the impeller from example. What I would do is call a yamaha OEM distributor of your choice, have your engine year/model number, and tell them what you need. They will be able to trace back the original part number and substitute it with a superseded part number. + +Finding a service manual from 1981 will be difficult. 1984 is the closest year I can find for a 15hp is here: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...ha-shop-manuals/717-1984-yamaha-9-9n-15n/file + +That manual should at least give you a general idea on how to replace/repair/troubleshoot. Good luck.",Good luck with your motors.----I run them out of fuel. +"Hi all. +I'm new into boating and would like a little advice please. +I purchased a nearly new rib and with it came a Yamaha 1981 15hp 15c 684cs 011453 + +Because my budget is tight, I was all up for giving it a paint job and service over the winter period . +Now I've discovered that it quite old , I lost confidence in it and after doing some searching I'm struggling to find parts like an impeller etc. +It seems to run great , but at 36 years old I'm worried it's way past it's best. +I have ittle experience with outboards so any advice will be appreciated. +Thanks","Many thanks Classic AQ for replying. +I started the outboard up again yesterday and it really does run smooth. +I'll be doing the maintenance that you pointed out and contact the Yamaha OEM . +Thanks for finding the manual link. I'm sure that will come in handy. +Kind regards","Many thanks Classic AQ for replying. +I started the outboard up again yesterday and it really does run smooth. +I'll be doing the maintenance that you pointed out and contact the Yamaha OEM . +Thanks for finding the manual link. I'm sure that will come in handy. +Kind regards",Not your specific 115 but the one depicted below gives a generalized idea of water flow. This one uses two PRV's whereas yours uses but one. +"Hi all. +I'm new into boating and would like a little advice please. +I purchased a nearly new rib and with it came a Yamaha 1981 15hp 15c 684cs 011453 + +Because my budget is tight, I was all up for giving it a paint job and service over the winter period . +Now I've discovered that it quite old , I lost confidence in it and after doing some searching I'm struggling to find parts like an impeller etc. +It seems to run great , but at 36 years old I'm worried it's way past it's best. +I have ittle experience with outboards so any advice will be appreciated. +Thanks","These parts are still available, well around these parts anyway, my old yamahas all run as strong as the day I got them. The only ever problem you will ever have with this model is most probably a coil, but you will probably find that they have already been replaced.","These parts are still available, well around these parts anyway, my old yamahas all run as strong as the day I got them. The only ever problem you will ever have with this model is most probably a coil, but you will probably find that they have already been replaced.","Moving weight up front and running a half tank of fuel or less will hopefully further reduce the wake at speeds I am comfortable running. It has an amazing wake at higher speeds (For barefooting) but more than I'd like sub 30 MPH. If you have any tips on this issue, that would be much appreciated. I noticed that a local water ski school also running the Yamaha Pro V on Barefoot 200s has their motor mounted two settings higher on the transom than mine (currently at the lowest setting) +Thanks." +"Hi all. +I'm new into boating and would like a little advice please. +I purchased a nearly new rib and with it came a Yamaha 1981 15hp 15c 684cs 011453 + +Because my budget is tight, I was all up for giving it a paint job and service over the winter period . +Now I've discovered that it quite old , I lost confidence in it and after doing some searching I'm struggling to find parts like an impeller etc. +It seems to run great , but at 36 years old I'm worried it's way past it's best. +I have ittle experience with outboards so any advice will be appreciated. +Thanks",That's good to know . Thank you,That's good to know . Thank you,"The applicable service manual provides the minimum diameter for the crank shaft journals. + +Once the shaft is ground down it will either be in or out of specifications. If out, it is scrap. If it is within then you select the bearing colour that will provide the clearance that is specified within the service manual." +"Hi all. +I'm new into boating and would like a little advice please. +I purchased a nearly new rib and with it came a Yamaha 1981 15hp 15c 684cs 011453 + +Because my budget is tight, I was all up for giving it a paint job and service over the winter period . +Now I've discovered that it quite old , I lost confidence in it and after doing some searching I'm struggling to find parts like an impeller etc. +It seems to run great , but at 36 years old I'm worried it's way past it's best. +I have ittle experience with outboards so any advice will be appreciated. +Thanks","Your motor seems to be equivalent with 6E8 type ( Yamaha 15D ) +The parts have not changed much and I think you will find most of them quite easy. +Have a look here and see if you can identify that's the same motor : +https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-lodochnyh-motorov/yamaha/15-7219/15-17918/15d-753169 + +You can see if the water pump , carb and engine block look the same as yours. + +People say if the owners cared about them, those motors last lifetime.","Your motor seems to be equivalent with 6E8 type ( Yamaha 15D ) +The parts have not changed much and I think you will find most of them quite easy. +Have a look here and see if you can identify that's the same motor : +https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-lodochnyh-motorov/yamaha/15-7219/15-17918/15d-753169 + +You can see if the water pump , carb and engine block look the same as yours. + +People say if the owners cared about them, those motors last lifetime.","Make sure you drilled out all rivets between the cap and the hull. Also, I have seen a boat where they intermittently laid a piece of glass cloth between the cap and the hull in the side. I had to first cut through those before I could separate them." +"Hi all. +I'm new into boating and would like a little advice please. +I purchased a nearly new rib and with it came a Yamaha 1981 15hp 15c 684cs 011453 + +Because my budget is tight, I was all up for giving it a paint job and service over the winter period . +Now I've discovered that it quite old , I lost confidence in it and after doing some searching I'm struggling to find parts like an impeller etc. +It seems to run great , but at 36 years old I'm worried it's way past it's best. +I have ittle experience with outboards so any advice will be appreciated. +Thanks","Hi +Yes it does look very similar . +Thanks for finding this. +Much appreciated.","Hi +Yes it does look very similar . +Thanks for finding this. +Much appreciated.",Thankyou I shall take your advice ! +"Hi all. +I'm new into boating and would like a little advice please. +I purchased a nearly new rib and with it came a Yamaha 1981 15hp 15c 684cs 011453 + +Because my budget is tight, I was all up for giving it a paint job and service over the winter period . +Now I've discovered that it quite old , I lost confidence in it and after doing some searching I'm struggling to find parts like an impeller etc. +It seems to run great , but at 36 years old I'm worried it's way past it's best. +I have ittle experience with outboards so any advice will be appreciated. +Thanks","No problem, +Glad I could help. +Few days ago I also bought a 25hp Mariner from '83. Which in fact is Yamaha 25D ( same series as yours ) with Mariner decals and paint job. +The motor runs so smooth I was amazed. I can barely wait to put it to work, but I expect to last very long even if it already has 34 years. +As I said, those motors didn't seem to have a end of life.","No problem, +Glad I could help. +Few days ago I also bought a 25hp Mariner from '83. Which in fact is Yamaha 25D ( same series as yours ) with Mariner decals and paint job. +The motor runs so smooth I was amazed. I can barely wait to put it to work, but I expect to last very long even if it already has 34 years. +As I said, those motors didn't seem to have a end of life.",images +"I need the female plug that goes on the wiring harness for the tilt trim switch inside the motor cowling. The switch stuck and the motor came down and continued running and overheated the plug and burn one of the female pins inside the plug. I need the female plug so I can splice the plug back in and get the tilt trim working again. Any help is appreciated, thanks.","Can you imagine how many 225hp engines Yamaha has produced in its 30+ years of producing outboards, including different models for each year?? I can. A lot, that's how many. So let's start over. What's the year and model number of your engine.","Can you imagine how many 225hp engines Yamaha has produced in its 30+ years of producing outboards, including different models for each year?? I can. A lot, that's how many. So let's start over. What's the year and model number of your engine.","I haven't dealt with the VP stuff specifically....that said, I'm with you - re-seal it. + +We usually use a 'hydraulic shop'....drop it off in the afternoon and get it a day later....and usually cheaper than the 'marine oem kits'. + +Even better, they have all the spanners and other 'specialty tools' that make it a no brainer." +"I need the female plug that goes on the wiring harness for the tilt trim switch inside the motor cowling. The switch stuck and the motor came down and continued running and overheated the plug and burn one of the female pins inside the plug. I need the female plug so I can splice the plug back in and get the tilt trim working again. Any help is appreciated, thanks.",2002 Yamaha 225 four stroke. I'll have get the model #. Thanks.,2002 Yamaha 225 four stroke. I'll have get the model #. Thanks.,"I’m having trouble getting fluid into the tilt & trim unit & then when I do get a little fluid in it will work a little ,but is very slow." +"I need the female plug that goes on the wiring harness for the tilt trim switch inside the motor cowling. The switch stuck and the motor came down and continued running and overheated the plug and burn one of the female pins inside the plug. I need the female plug so I can splice the plug back in and get the tilt trim working again. Any help is appreciated, thanks.",F225txra is the model.,F225txra is the model.,"Ayuh,..... Have ya redrilled the holes for the transom assembly,..?? + +While you can find installation manuals in the Mercruiser links in Don'S Adults Only section at the top of the I/O forums, at iboats.com,... + +I find the Best way to do the job is to mount the transom assembly,... +Hang the motor on a hook, attach the aft motor mounts, then with an alignment bar, align it,... +That gives ya the Exact spot to build yer motor mount blocks up to,... +Goin' off the drawin's only gets ya sorta close,...." +"I need the female plug that goes on the wiring harness for the tilt trim switch inside the motor cowling. The switch stuck and the motor came down and continued running and overheated the plug and burn one of the female pins inside the plug. I need the female plug so I can splice the plug back in and get the tilt trim working again. Any help is appreciated, thanks.","To my knowledge the plastic harness is not a replaceable part. You'd have to replace the entire T/T switch assembly. Part # 69J-82563-01-00, which will cost around $45-$50. Another option if available in your area, is find a marine surplus store that has broke down engines. Take the old harness with you to compare, find a yamaha V6 engine, and either cut off the harness or take out the entire switch assembly.","To my knowledge the plastic harness is not a replaceable part. You'd have to replace the entire T/T switch assembly. Part # 69J-82563-01-00, which will cost around $45-$50. Another option if available in your area, is find a marine surplus store that has broke down engines. Take the old harness with you to compare, find a yamaha V6 engine, and either cut off the harness or take out the entire switch assembly.","ashraf said: + + + + I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking. + +Click to expand... + +Pre-ignition or detonation comes to my mind. Piston is on its way up on the compression stroke. The air/gasoline mix either ignites prematurely on its own (pre-ignition) or after the spark plug ignites the air/gasoline mix the mix explodes (detonates) instead of burning smoothly over time. + +The forces in the combustion chamber are so high and violent that they try and push the piston back down in the cylinder at the very time that the crank shaft is trying to move it upwards. Something has to give. Appears to be the rod took the hit. The rod bends, breaks, and then damages the block." +"I need the female plug that goes on the wiring harness for the tilt trim switch inside the motor cowling. The switch stuck and the motor came down and continued running and overheated the plug and burn one of the female pins inside the plug. I need the female plug so I can splice the plug back in and get the tilt trim working again. Any help is appreciated, thanks.",I have already replaced the switch. I need the female side that goes on to the wiring harness. Thanks.,I have already replaced the switch. I need the female side that goes on to the wiring harness. Thanks.,Just to pipe in since I've been off line for a while. I agree that adding ballast sand bags would be a good idea. I would try to build in a hatch or two (fore & aft) where I could experiment with the amount of ballast needed. Try to find some of those sand bags that don't rot or deteriorate over time. +"I need the female plug that goes on the wiring harness for the tilt trim switch inside the motor cowling. The switch stuck and the motor came down and continued running and overheated the plug and burn one of the female pins inside the plug. I need the female plug so I can splice the plug back in and get the tilt trim working again. Any help is appreciated, thanks.","trx125 said: + + + + I have already replaced the switch. I need the female side that goes on to the wiring harness. Thanks. + +Click to expand... + + +I believe you're referring to the engine side PT/T harness. And again, I don't believe the 4-pin harness itself is sold separate from the main wire harness.","trx125 said: + + + + I have already replaced the switch. I need the female side that goes on to the wiring harness. Thanks. + +Click to expand... + + +I believe you're referring to the engine side PT/T harness. And again, I don't believe the 4-pin harness itself is sold separate from the main wire harness.","Glad to hear that. Funny, all the ones we have used were preset to continuous. I have found that they have to be set a few deg. higher than the desired temp or the heater will not kick up to high to bring the temp up. You may have to play with it. I found that I set it at 25C and the next morning the room temp was 19, and the heater was only running on medium. I kicked it up to about 28 and then the heater kicked up to high. It may not be as good a thermostat as the old style, but the diagnostics are great." +I have a F90tlrd am having charging problems would like to know if the stator is 3 phase since it has 3 wires to regulator/rectifier thanks for any help,Year?,Year?,"promethazine over the counter and even buy diflucan We try to do our greatest and supply hassle-free service for every purchaser, our on the web store is intuitive and everybody can get much more info from our on the web experts-consultants.order promethazine without a ************" +I have a F90tlrd am having charging problems would like to know if the stator is 3 phase since it has 3 wires to regulator/rectifier thanks for any help,Thank you ClassicAq the year is 2005 90hp,Thank you ClassicAq the year is 2005 90hp,Really the bigger question is why did such a minimal repair take so long?!?!? Not sure I'd trust a place like that. +I have a F90tlrd am having charging problems would like to know if the stator is 3 phase since it has 3 wires to regulator/rectifier thanks for any help,The stator coil coupler is a 6 pin harness that plugs into rectifier regulator. Have you followed the service manuals procedure for testing stator and R&R?,The stator coil coupler is a 6 pin harness that plugs into rectifier regulator. Have you followed the service manuals procedure for testing stator and R&R?,I have just noticed you are showing a small spring and another jet? I have only removed 4 bowl screws and 2 bottom jets. +I have a F90tlrd am having charging problems would like to know if the stator is 3 phase since it has 3 wires to regulator/rectifier thanks for any help,ClassicAQ I don't have a service manual just recently got the boat ���� I definitely need one,ClassicAQ I don't have a service manual just recently got the boat ���� I definitely need one,Speedometer hose and has nothing to do with the way the motor runs.-----Start with a compression test.-------That costs Zero money to do. +I have a F90tlrd am having charging problems would like to know if the stator is 3 phase since it has 3 wires to regulator/rectifier thanks for any help,"Tblshur said: + + + + ClassicAQ I don't have a service manual just recently got the boat ���� I definitely need one + +Click to expand... + + +Service manuals usually cost $10-$20 for a digital copy. But you're in luck because I found your model/year for free. Here is the link: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...aha-shop-manuals/338-2005-yamaha-f75-f90/file","Tblshur said: + + + + ClassicAQ I don't have a service manual just recently got the boat ���� I definitely need one + +Click to expand... + + +Service manuals usually cost $10-$20 for a digital copy. But you're in luck because I found your model/year for free. Here is the link: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...aha-shop-manuals/338-2005-yamaha-f75-f90/file","johnnygjr said: + + + + Starting procedure must be adhered to,consult owners manual for procedure. + +Click to expand... + + +This idea was suggested by a mechanic after many months of frustration. +It works and it's not in the starting procdure" +I have a F90tlrd am having charging problems would like to know if the stator is 3 phase since it has 3 wires to regulator/rectifier thanks for any help,ClassicAQ you are the man! I don't have the words to explain how I thank you �� that is just allsome thank you thank you thank you and with your help i found the negative connector had been very hot and melted some of the plastic I cleaned and tightened it up now it charges I need to get a new plug and connectors wish I could buy you lunch �� again thank you very much Ps got to see eclipse while checking it ����,ClassicAQ you are the man! I don't have the words to explain how I thank you �� that is just allsome thank you thank you thank you and with your help i found the negative connector had been very hot and melted some of the plastic I cleaned and tightened it up now it charges I need to get a new plug and connectors wish I could buy you lunch �� again thank you very much Ps got to see eclipse while checking it ����,"BoatDope said: + + + + Is this a new motor and new problem to you or is this a motor you know well that is presenting a previously unknown issue??? Your post reminded me of a last year. My brother bought a boat that was doing the same thing last year. We finally figured out that the previous owner had installed a through hull fuel fitting that was too small. We bypassed it and immediately felt the difference when priming the bulb. The problem was solved. We replace the through hull with the larger correct size and the motor starving at high load problem was fixed. A 40 HP shouldn't pull too much fuel, but just follow your fuel line double check to make sure there re no pinch points and Good luck to you. Peace + +Click to expand... + + +yer its going back in the shop next week will let you no what they find and do, it is getting worse dies allot easyier, only after trolling at low speeds then open up and then dies" +"I just bought a boat 4 weeks ago, and took it out few days back, and it wasn't pleasant .. First it didn't want to start, finally started but it had very low idle, and when I pushed in gear died off. I took it home, got new sparks .. NGK.. same thing. +I tried to move around the spark plug cable, and voila started idling better! +So I started unplug the top cylinder spark plug to check if the cylinder works, and after i pulled it , rpm dropped, so the 1st ok!. The second plug was pulled and no change in the idle , so 2nd cylinder won't work. Lower cylinder works , so 2 of 3 is good. I swapped around the cables and ignition coils ( I hope they are same) , and I got a same result. 1,3 good. 2 won't fire. +According to the previous owner, and the invoice I got from him, about 4 months ago he had a same issue, and a shop replaced the CDI unit ( charged him $600) and new carburetor kits, new gas, bulb, etc.. So he paid $1800... The motor started on his driveway when I bought it, but I have this issue now.. Again.. I checked a label on the CDI, and it shows 2009! The motor is 2007, so either they ordered an old part was sitting in a warehouse somewhere or they screwed him over ( and me ) with a used CDI.. +I can't bring it back there ,( I won't trust them..) and I was wondering if you guys would have any idea what can be wrong . I will take it to a mechanic this weekend, but I was wondering if any of you was facing with similar problem.. +I also downloaded a wrong service manual by accident, I have a pdf format for Worldwide: F40BMHD, F40BWHD, F40BED, F40BET and Usa, Canada:F40MH, F40ER, F40TR, if someone has by the chance the F40MLH Service manual: LIT-18616-02-16 I would willing to trade mine + +My boat doesn't have a tachometer , and I would like to install one, and i was hoping if i will found out info about that in the manual , also looking for a procedure to ""link and sync the carburetors"". +Please help me out . +Thank You! +Attila","Actually, I would bring the engine back to the service shop the previous owner used. Bring the invoice with you. And unless they ask I don't see a reason to tell them you are the new owner of the engine. But even if they figure out you are not the same owner, the fact remains they performed service on your engine only 4 months ago to fix the problem you are currently experiencing. Perhaps you'll catch a break and they'll be an honorable business that stands by their service. You have nothing to lose if they they will not be helpful. + +A new CDI does cost around $600. But the '09 manufactured date on the CDI installed on your motor does not imply it was used. It is plausible it sat on the shelf for years. This is one of those unfortunate mistakes made by used outboard motor consumers. Never buy a motor without testing it under load, unless you're buying it for parts or expecting it to have issues. Of course knowing this now doesn't help you now. But at least it will in the future should you buy another used motor. + +Can't help ya out with the manual. And the carb sync and timing procedure is located in the manual. However, the manual you accidentally downloaded has this procedure listed, despite you having a different model. I'd bet its the same procedure used to time and sync your carbs.","Actually, I would bring the engine back to the service shop the previous owner used. Bring the invoice with you. And unless they ask I don't see a reason to tell them you are the new owner of the engine. But even if they figure out you are not the same owner, the fact remains they performed service on your engine only 4 months ago to fix the problem you are currently experiencing. Perhaps you'll catch a break and they'll be an honorable business that stands by their service. You have nothing to lose if they they will not be helpful. + +A new CDI does cost around $600. But the '09 manufactured date on the CDI installed on your motor does not imply it was used. It is plausible it sat on the shelf for years. This is one of those unfortunate mistakes made by used outboard motor consumers. Never buy a motor without testing it under load, unless you're buying it for parts or expecting it to have issues. Of course knowing this now doesn't help you now. But at least it will in the future should you buy another used motor. + +Can't help ya out with the manual. And the carb sync and timing procedure is located in the manual. However, the manual you accidentally downloaded has this procedure listed, despite you having a different model. I'd bet its the same procedure used to time and sync your carbs.",What motor / drive is it ?? +"I just bought a boat 4 weeks ago, and took it out few days back, and it wasn't pleasant .. First it didn't want to start, finally started but it had very low idle, and when I pushed in gear died off. I took it home, got new sparks .. NGK.. same thing. +I tried to move around the spark plug cable, and voila started idling better! +So I started unplug the top cylinder spark plug to check if the cylinder works, and after i pulled it , rpm dropped, so the 1st ok!. The second plug was pulled and no change in the idle , so 2nd cylinder won't work. Lower cylinder works , so 2 of 3 is good. I swapped around the cables and ignition coils ( I hope they are same) , and I got a same result. 1,3 good. 2 won't fire. +According to the previous owner, and the invoice I got from him, about 4 months ago he had a same issue, and a shop replaced the CDI unit ( charged him $600) and new carburetor kits, new gas, bulb, etc.. So he paid $1800... The motor started on his driveway when I bought it, but I have this issue now.. Again.. I checked a label on the CDI, and it shows 2009! The motor is 2007, so either they ordered an old part was sitting in a warehouse somewhere or they screwed him over ( and me ) with a used CDI.. +I can't bring it back there ,( I won't trust them..) and I was wondering if you guys would have any idea what can be wrong . I will take it to a mechanic this weekend, but I was wondering if any of you was facing with similar problem.. +I also downloaded a wrong service manual by accident, I have a pdf format for Worldwide: F40BMHD, F40BWHD, F40BED, F40BET and Usa, Canada:F40MH, F40ER, F40TR, if someone has by the chance the F40MLH Service manual: LIT-18616-02-16 I would willing to trade mine + +My boat doesn't have a tachometer , and I would like to install one, and i was hoping if i will found out info about that in the manual , also looking for a procedure to ""link and sync the carburetors"". +Please help me out . +Thank You! +Attila","I can't bring it back to them.. I don't trust them , and they are 3h away. They charged $200 to get rid of 5 gallon old gas from the tank, and they didn't even clean the gas tank. That type of mechanic shop they are. The cost of CDI cost less than $400 online btw.. I was able to fire up the cylinder 1 and 3 now, so it is running under load. My local mechanic looking in to it today. Will know more by end of the day.","I can't bring it back to them.. I don't trust them , and they are 3h away. They charged $200 to get rid of 5 gallon old gas from the tank, and they didn't even clean the gas tank. That type of mechanic shop they are. The cost of CDI cost less than $400 online btw.. I was able to fire up the cylinder 1 and 3 now, so it is running under load. My local mechanic looking in to it today. Will know more by end of the day.","chawk_man said: + + + + I know you don't want to drop more bucks on the boat, but one cure is a manual/mechanical jack plate. You're looking at around $250 +/-. + +But that's a diversion. Let us know what happens when you change the trim tab. + +Click to expand... + + +Googling... + +That's an interesting contraption. Might have to keep it in mind if the motor doesn't have an adjustable plate. + +I'll keep you all posted on the trim tab adjustment. + +Thanks for all the help so far!" +"I just bought a boat 4 weeks ago, and took it out few days back, and it wasn't pleasant .. First it didn't want to start, finally started but it had very low idle, and when I pushed in gear died off. I took it home, got new sparks .. NGK.. same thing. +I tried to move around the spark plug cable, and voila started idling better! +So I started unplug the top cylinder spark plug to check if the cylinder works, and after i pulled it , rpm dropped, so the 1st ok!. The second plug was pulled and no change in the idle , so 2nd cylinder won't work. Lower cylinder works , so 2 of 3 is good. I swapped around the cables and ignition coils ( I hope they are same) , and I got a same result. 1,3 good. 2 won't fire. +According to the previous owner, and the invoice I got from him, about 4 months ago he had a same issue, and a shop replaced the CDI unit ( charged him $600) and new carburetor kits, new gas, bulb, etc.. So he paid $1800... The motor started on his driveway when I bought it, but I have this issue now.. Again.. I checked a label on the CDI, and it shows 2009! The motor is 2007, so either they ordered an old part was sitting in a warehouse somewhere or they screwed him over ( and me ) with a used CDI.. +I can't bring it back there ,( I won't trust them..) and I was wondering if you guys would have any idea what can be wrong . I will take it to a mechanic this weekend, but I was wondering if any of you was facing with similar problem.. +I also downloaded a wrong service manual by accident, I have a pdf format for Worldwide: F40BMHD, F40BWHD, F40BED, F40BET and Usa, Canada:F40MH, F40ER, F40TR, if someone has by the chance the F40MLH Service manual: LIT-18616-02-16 I would willing to trade mine + +My boat doesn't have a tachometer , and I would like to install one, and i was hoping if i will found out info about that in the manual , also looking for a procedure to ""link and sync the carburetors"". +Please help me out . +Thank You! +Attila","atti_mac said: + + + + I was able to fire up the cylinder 1 and 3 now, so it is running under load + +Click to expand... + + +FYI, an outboard engine under load means the engine is turning the propeller against resistance, such as a submerged vessel through water. Resistance being the key factor, as it relates to load. In essence, in order to adequately assess the performance of your engine it needs to be run in open water. Starting and running the engine by using muffs or submerging the lower unit into a bucket of water does NOT load the engine. + +Comparing the engines performance under load to its performance when not under load would be similar to the comparison of you leaning up against a wall (no effort on your part) to you pushing against a wall (effort applied on your part). Let's say you've got a bum leg and you're leaning against this wall. Those observing you would not know you have a bum leg. But once you push against the wall using your bum leg as force (engine), those observing would know.","atti_mac said: + + + + I was able to fire up the cylinder 1 and 3 now, so it is running under load + +Click to expand... + + +FYI, an outboard engine under load means the engine is turning the propeller against resistance, such as a submerged vessel through water. Resistance being the key factor, as it relates to load. In essence, in order to adequately assess the performance of your engine it needs to be run in open water. Starting and running the engine by using muffs or submerging the lower unit into a bucket of water does NOT load the engine. + +Comparing the engines performance under load to its performance when not under load would be similar to the comparison of you leaning up against a wall (no effort on your part) to you pushing against a wall (effort applied on your part). Let's say you've got a bum leg and you're leaning against this wall. Those observing you would not know you have a bum leg. But once you push against the wall using your bum leg as force (engine), those observing would know.","Ayuh,... Can ya dig in, 'n See how big the tank is,..?? + +While yer there, observe the plumbin',... +Maybe it ain't fillin' right, or not drainin' completely...." +"I just bought a boat 4 weeks ago, and took it out few days back, and it wasn't pleasant .. First it didn't want to start, finally started but it had very low idle, and when I pushed in gear died off. I took it home, got new sparks .. NGK.. same thing. +I tried to move around the spark plug cable, and voila started idling better! +So I started unplug the top cylinder spark plug to check if the cylinder works, and after i pulled it , rpm dropped, so the 1st ok!. The second plug was pulled and no change in the idle , so 2nd cylinder won't work. Lower cylinder works , so 2 of 3 is good. I swapped around the cables and ignition coils ( I hope they are same) , and I got a same result. 1,3 good. 2 won't fire. +According to the previous owner, and the invoice I got from him, about 4 months ago he had a same issue, and a shop replaced the CDI unit ( charged him $600) and new carburetor kits, new gas, bulb, etc.. So he paid $1800... The motor started on his driveway when I bought it, but I have this issue now.. Again.. I checked a label on the CDI, and it shows 2009! The motor is 2007, so either they ordered an old part was sitting in a warehouse somewhere or they screwed him over ( and me ) with a used CDI.. +I can't bring it back there ,( I won't trust them..) and I was wondering if you guys would have any idea what can be wrong . I will take it to a mechanic this weekend, but I was wondering if any of you was facing with similar problem.. +I also downloaded a wrong service manual by accident, I have a pdf format for Worldwide: F40BMHD, F40BWHD, F40BED, F40BET and Usa, Canada:F40MH, F40ER, F40TR, if someone has by the chance the F40MLH Service manual: LIT-18616-02-16 I would willing to trade mine + +My boat doesn't have a tachometer , and I would like to install one, and i was hoping if i will found out info about that in the manual , also looking for a procedure to ""link and sync the carburetors"". +Please help me out . +Thank You! +Attila","atti_mac said: + + + + I was able to fire up the cylinder 1 and 3 now, so it is running under load. + +Click to expand... + + +Did you run the boat/motor in open water to determine it's ""running under load""? To be considered under load, the motor needs to thrust against resistance. Running the engine on muffs or in a bucket does not load the engine.","atti_mac said: + + + + I was able to fire up the cylinder 1 and 3 now, so it is running under load. + +Click to expand... + + +Did you run the boat/motor in open water to determine it's ""running under load""? To be considered under load, the motor needs to thrust against resistance. Running the engine on muffs or in a bucket does not load the engine.","no, I havent had a chance to work with it yet, but I am going to give all of your suggestions to my brother and see if we cant get it fixed. Thank you guys so much for taking the time to try and help me, This forum is GREAT!!!" +"I just bought a boat 4 weeks ago, and took it out few days back, and it wasn't pleasant .. First it didn't want to start, finally started but it had very low idle, and when I pushed in gear died off. I took it home, got new sparks .. NGK.. same thing. +I tried to move around the spark plug cable, and voila started idling better! +So I started unplug the top cylinder spark plug to check if the cylinder works, and after i pulled it , rpm dropped, so the 1st ok!. The second plug was pulled and no change in the idle , so 2nd cylinder won't work. Lower cylinder works , so 2 of 3 is good. I swapped around the cables and ignition coils ( I hope they are same) , and I got a same result. 1,3 good. 2 won't fire. +According to the previous owner, and the invoice I got from him, about 4 months ago he had a same issue, and a shop replaced the CDI unit ( charged him $600) and new carburetor kits, new gas, bulb, etc.. So he paid $1800... The motor started on his driveway when I bought it, but I have this issue now.. Again.. I checked a label on the CDI, and it shows 2009! The motor is 2007, so either they ordered an old part was sitting in a warehouse somewhere or they screwed him over ( and me ) with a used CDI.. +I can't bring it back there ,( I won't trust them..) and I was wondering if you guys would have any idea what can be wrong . I will take it to a mechanic this weekend, but I was wondering if any of you was facing with similar problem.. +I also downloaded a wrong service manual by accident, I have a pdf format for Worldwide: F40BMHD, F40BWHD, F40BED, F40BET and Usa, Canada:F40MH, F40ER, F40TR, if someone has by the chance the F40MLH Service manual: LIT-18616-02-16 I would willing to trade mine + +My boat doesn't have a tachometer , and I would like to install one, and i was hoping if i will found out info about that in the manual , also looking for a procedure to ""link and sync the carburetors"". +Please help me out . +Thank You! +Attila","atti_mac said: + + + + I just bought a boat 4 weeks ago, and took it out few days back, and it wasn't pleasant .. First it didn't want to start, finally started but it had very low idle, and when I pushed in gear died off. I took it home, got new sparks .. NGK.. same thing. +I tried to move around the spark plug cable, and voila started idling better! +So I started unplug the top cylinder spark plug to check if the cylinder works, and after i pulled it , rpm dropped, so the 1st ok!. The second plug was pulled and no change in the idle , so 2nd cylinder won't work. Lower cylinder works , so 2 of 3 is good. I swapped around the cables and ignition coils ( I hope they are same) , and I got a same result. 1,3 good. 2 won't fire. +According to the previous owner, and the invoice I got from him, about 4 months ago he had a same issue, and a shop replaced the CDI unit ( charged him $600) and new carburetor kits, new gas, bulb, etc.. So he paid $1800... The motor started on his driveway when I bought it, but I have this issue now.. Again.. I checked a label on the CDI, and it shows 2009! The motor is 2007, so either they ordered an old part was sitting in a warehouse somewhere or they screwed him over ( and me ) with a used CDI.. +I can't bring it back there ,( I won't trust them..) and I was wondering if you guys would have any idea what can be wrong . I will take it to a mechanic this weekend, but I was wondering if any of you was facing with similar problem.. +I also downloaded a wrong service manual by accident, I have a pdf format for Worldwide: F40BMHD, F40BWHD, F40BED, F40BET and Usa, Canada:F40MH, F40ER, F40TR, if someone has by the chance the F40MLH Service manual: LIT-18616-02-16 I would willing to trade mine + +My boat doesn't have a tachometer , and I would like to install one, and i was hoping if i will found out info about that in the manual , also looking for a procedure to ""link and sync the carburetors"". +Please help me out . +Thank You! +Attila + +Click to expand... + + +Did you ever resolve your issue? I have the same Yamaha 2007 F40TLR and had similar issues in the last 2 years. I just rebuilt my carbs 1 1/2 years ago the motor was running fine with on issue that the motor always had which is acceleration from idle. I have to feather the throttle to get it to a higher RPM. However two days ago I was out fishing and felt a bump and heard a slight clunk. The RPMs dropped and the motor stopped and wouldn't start. +Thank god for my trolling motor. +At home I removed the carbs and saw they were a little dirty again so I cleaned them which didn't help. I've replace the plugs and now going to diagnose the spark and check compression. + +I saw where some guys have modified there jet sizes, I have order mine and I will try the same approach to correct the throttle issue. + +I'm curious what your fix was. thanks","atti_mac said: + + + + I just bought a boat 4 weeks ago, and took it out few days back, and it wasn't pleasant .. First it didn't want to start, finally started but it had very low idle, and when I pushed in gear died off. I took it home, got new sparks .. NGK.. same thing. +I tried to move around the spark plug cable, and voila started idling better! +So I started unplug the top cylinder spark plug to check if the cylinder works, and after i pulled it , rpm dropped, so the 1st ok!. The second plug was pulled and no change in the idle , so 2nd cylinder won't work. Lower cylinder works , so 2 of 3 is good. I swapped around the cables and ignition coils ( I hope they are same) , and I got a same result. 1,3 good. 2 won't fire. +According to the previous owner, and the invoice I got from him, about 4 months ago he had a same issue, and a shop replaced the CDI unit ( charged him $600) and new carburetor kits, new gas, bulb, etc.. So he paid $1800... The motor started on his driveway when I bought it, but I have this issue now.. Again.. I checked a label on the CDI, and it shows 2009! The motor is 2007, so either they ordered an old part was sitting in a warehouse somewhere or they screwed him over ( and me ) with a used CDI.. +I can't bring it back there ,( I won't trust them..) and I was wondering if you guys would have any idea what can be wrong . I will take it to a mechanic this weekend, but I was wondering if any of you was facing with similar problem.. +I also downloaded a wrong service manual by accident, I have a pdf format for Worldwide: F40BMHD, F40BWHD, F40BED, F40BET and Usa, Canada:F40MH, F40ER, F40TR, if someone has by the chance the F40MLH Service manual: LIT-18616-02-16 I would willing to trade mine + +My boat doesn't have a tachometer , and I would like to install one, and i was hoping if i will found out info about that in the manual , also looking for a procedure to ""link and sync the carburetors"". +Please help me out . +Thank You! +Attila + +Click to expand... + + +Did you ever resolve your issue? I have the same Yamaha 2007 F40TLR and had similar issues in the last 2 years. I just rebuilt my carbs 1 1/2 years ago the motor was running fine with on issue that the motor always had which is acceleration from idle. I have to feather the throttle to get it to a higher RPM. However two days ago I was out fishing and felt a bump and heard a slight clunk. The RPMs dropped and the motor stopped and wouldn't start. +Thank god for my trolling motor. +At home I removed the carbs and saw they were a little dirty again so I cleaned them which didn't help. I've replace the plugs and now going to diagnose the spark and check compression. + +I saw where some guys have modified there jet sizes, I have order mine and I will try the same approach to correct the throttle issue. + +I'm curious what your fix was. thanks","Ayuh,.... Probably corroded wirin' ends,... + +By-pass a solenoid with a jumper wire,..." +"I just bought a boat 4 weeks ago, and took it out few days back, and it wasn't pleasant .. First it didn't want to start, finally started but it had very low idle, and when I pushed in gear died off. I took it home, got new sparks .. NGK.. same thing. +I tried to move around the spark plug cable, and voila started idling better! +So I started unplug the top cylinder spark plug to check if the cylinder works, and after i pulled it , rpm dropped, so the 1st ok!. The second plug was pulled and no change in the idle , so 2nd cylinder won't work. Lower cylinder works , so 2 of 3 is good. I swapped around the cables and ignition coils ( I hope they are same) , and I got a same result. 1,3 good. 2 won't fire. +According to the previous owner, and the invoice I got from him, about 4 months ago he had a same issue, and a shop replaced the CDI unit ( charged him $600) and new carburetor kits, new gas, bulb, etc.. So he paid $1800... The motor started on his driveway when I bought it, but I have this issue now.. Again.. I checked a label on the CDI, and it shows 2009! The motor is 2007, so either they ordered an old part was sitting in a warehouse somewhere or they screwed him over ( and me ) with a used CDI.. +I can't bring it back there ,( I won't trust them..) and I was wondering if you guys would have any idea what can be wrong . I will take it to a mechanic this weekend, but I was wondering if any of you was facing with similar problem.. +I also downloaded a wrong service manual by accident, I have a pdf format for Worldwide: F40BMHD, F40BWHD, F40BED, F40BET and Usa, Canada:F40MH, F40ER, F40TR, if someone has by the chance the F40MLH Service manual: LIT-18616-02-16 I would willing to trade mine + +My boat doesn't have a tachometer , and I would like to install one, and i was hoping if i will found out info about that in the manual , also looking for a procedure to ""link and sync the carburetors"". +Please help me out . +Thank You! +Attila","Fincity said: + + + + However two days ago I was out fishing and felt a bump and heard a slight clunk. The RPMs dropped and the motor stopped and wouldn't start. + +Click to expand... + + +Bump and clunk, followed by rpm reduction to engine stall....these are not signs of a motor experiencing dirty carbs or fuel, poor spark or compression. I'd be checking your lower unit. Start with draining the gear oil into a container and look for metal shavings. The gear oil screw cap is magnetic, so look there for shavings. And of course if the gear oil is milky color, there's your problem.","Fincity said: + + + + However two days ago I was out fishing and felt a bump and heard a slight clunk. The RPMs dropped and the motor stopped and wouldn't start. + +Click to expand... + + +Bump and clunk, followed by rpm reduction to engine stall....these are not signs of a motor experiencing dirty carbs or fuel, poor spark or compression. I'd be checking your lower unit. Start with draining the gear oil into a container and look for metal shavings. The gear oil screw cap is magnetic, so look there for shavings. And of course if the gear oil is milky color, there's your problem.","Agreed ---Remove lower unit.-------If it moves that much it could be a bearing problem.----Rings are not corroded if you get 1 cm ( 3/8"" ) movement." +"I just bought a boat 4 weeks ago, and took it out few days back, and it wasn't pleasant .. First it didn't want to start, finally started but it had very low idle, and when I pushed in gear died off. I took it home, got new sparks .. NGK.. same thing. +I tried to move around the spark plug cable, and voila started idling better! +So I started unplug the top cylinder spark plug to check if the cylinder works, and after i pulled it , rpm dropped, so the 1st ok!. The second plug was pulled and no change in the idle , so 2nd cylinder won't work. Lower cylinder works , so 2 of 3 is good. I swapped around the cables and ignition coils ( I hope they are same) , and I got a same result. 1,3 good. 2 won't fire. +According to the previous owner, and the invoice I got from him, about 4 months ago he had a same issue, and a shop replaced the CDI unit ( charged him $600) and new carburetor kits, new gas, bulb, etc.. So he paid $1800... The motor started on his driveway when I bought it, but I have this issue now.. Again.. I checked a label on the CDI, and it shows 2009! The motor is 2007, so either they ordered an old part was sitting in a warehouse somewhere or they screwed him over ( and me ) with a used CDI.. +I can't bring it back there ,( I won't trust them..) and I was wondering if you guys would have any idea what can be wrong . I will take it to a mechanic this weekend, but I was wondering if any of you was facing with similar problem.. +I also downloaded a wrong service manual by accident, I have a pdf format for Worldwide: F40BMHD, F40BWHD, F40BED, F40BET and Usa, Canada:F40MH, F40ER, F40TR, if someone has by the chance the F40MLH Service manual: LIT-18616-02-16 I would willing to trade mine + +My boat doesn't have a tachometer , and I would like to install one, and i was hoping if i will found out info about that in the manual , also looking for a procedure to ""link and sync the carburetors"". +Please help me out . +Thank You! +Attila","Further troubleshooting has proven No spark. All 3 coils are within spec. + + + +ClassicAQ said: + + + + Bump and clunk, followed by rpm reduction to engine stall....these are not signs of a motor experiencing dirty carbs or fuel, poor spark or compression. I'd be checking your lower unit. Start with draining the gear oil into a container and look for metal shavings. The gear oil screw cap is magnetic, so look there for shavings. And of course if the gear oil is milky color, there's your problem. + +Click to expand...","Further troubleshooting has proven No spark. All 3 coils are within spec. + + + +ClassicAQ said: + + + + Bump and clunk, followed by rpm reduction to engine stall....these are not signs of a motor experiencing dirty carbs or fuel, poor spark or compression. I'd be checking your lower unit. Start with draining the gear oil into a container and look for metal shavings. The gear oil screw cap is magnetic, so look there for shavings. And of course if the gear oil is milky color, there's your problem. + +Click to expand...",and I assume that beings the old square axle was mounted on the bottom of the leaf spring the new one will be to? +"my engine wants to start, but when I pull the manual choke on the engine, It will just click,click,click. However if I push the choke by the key, the engine wants to start. Any Ideas of what the problem is?",I haven't the faintest clue because I haven't the faintest clue which engine year and model you're asking,I haven't the faintest clue because I haven't the faintest clue which engine year and model you're asking,"Thanks. +That's pretty much what I'd thought. +Can it be removed and not replaced?" +"I have got a yamaha 80hp four stroke and an error came up on the gauge. + +I ordered the YDS and got the below results. Anyone has an idea what it could be + +Intake press sensor +Pulser coil +Shift position switch",Errors were cleared. The service icon was related to a reminder for service and was re setted and working ok.,Errors were cleared. The service icon was related to a reminder for service and was re setted and working ok.,?-------Did you mark the shift rod before the adjustment ??-----Explain in some detail what you did during this trial and error. +"I have got a yamaha 80hp four stroke and an error came up on the gauge. + +I ordered the YDS and got the below results. Anyone has an idea what it could be + +Intake press sensor +Pulser coil +Shift position switch","it looks likes your intake pressure may be a little high do you have any leaks around your intake pressure manifold. +are you occurring high idle? it should be around 750 plus or minus 50 rpm +i was working on a 115 at the Yamaha headquarters in Georgia and the intake pressure was around 10.15 every engine is different so you would have to do some research to see the specific details.","it looks likes your intake pressure may be a little high do you have any leaks around your intake pressure manifold. +are you occurring high idle? it should be around 750 plus or minus 50 rpm +i was working on a 115 at the Yamaha headquarters in Georgia and the intake pressure was around 10.15 every engine is different so you would have to do some research to see the specific details.","ram95 said: + + + + If I put it in gear and quickly open the throttle while holding three fingers over the air intake it winds right up. If I don't put my fingers over the intake it falls on its nose and quits. + +Click to expand... + + +Citing your statement above...when you cover the air intake you richen the mix (more fuel, less air), and the motor responds. I'm not familiar with your carb, but I recon it should have a idle mix screw. This screw has a specific ""turn out"" spec. This spec is found in your service manual. + +With the engine off, turn in the screw gently until it seats. Note the number of turns. Let's say it took 1 full turn in to seat. Then turn out the screw 3/4. Start engine and see how it responds. The more you turn in the screw the more you richen the mix. Just like putting your hand over the intake, except more precise of course. Make your adjustments to the idle mix screw small, 1/4 turns at a time." +"I have this old but great 130HP Yamaha 2 strokes. We are on vacation and the local marina only offers Regular gas with 10% Ethanol or Ethanol free high octane gasoline. + +At home, I have only used Ethanol free 87 octane with this motor. Any restriction on using High octane ? + +Thank you","No. Just a waste of money is all. You will not get a performance boost from using a higher octane fuel, though it also will not hurt your engine. Same goes for only using a few tank fills of 10% ethanol. + +Everything you ever wanted to know about fuel can be read by following the link below. In regards to octane, read 6.13. + +http://www.turborick.com/gsxr1127/gasoline.html","No. Just a waste of money is all. You will not get a performance boost from using a higher octane fuel, though it also will not hurt your engine. Same goes for only using a few tank fills of 10% ethanol. + +Everything you ever wanted to know about fuel can be read by following the link below. In regards to octane, read 6.13. + +http://www.turborick.com/gsxr1127/gasoline.html",Sorry i wrote out the post and did not use spell check or proof read before I posted it. +"I have this old but great 130HP Yamaha 2 strokes. We are on vacation and the local marina only offers Regular gas with 10% Ethanol or Ethanol free high octane gasoline. + +At home, I have only used Ethanol free 87 octane with this motor. Any restriction on using High octane ? + +Thank you","you can use a higher rating octane as it will not effect your engine performance however it will build up carbon in your combustion camber and other componets faster than lower rated octane but one use will not hurt +now with that being said if you have an engine that is rated for 93 octane and you use 85 you will have alot of problems as it can cause pre ignition.","you can use a higher rating octane as it will not effect your engine performance however it will build up carbon in your combustion camber and other componets faster than lower rated octane but one use will not hurt +now with that being said if you have an engine that is rated for 93 octane and you use 85 you will have alot of problems as it can cause pre ignition.","BOSCOE! You are super! This is it! That's exactly what it looks like! I looked for these dimensions and could not find such a description anywhere, only a similar one. Thank You very much!" +Is this a Yamaha motor? if so what is the Yamaha motor model number so I can get parts. I looked at the diagrams for a 1984 Yamaha 9.9 and it looks the same thanks,For anyone else with this motor always buy the mercury parts. It is a Yamaha motor but some of the parts are different.,For anyone else with this motor always buy the mercury parts. It is a Yamaha motor but some of the parts are different.,"So you're saying check to make sure the neutral position switch is saying ON while the motors are turned off/ accessory mode? + +I replaced the switch today from my local Yamaha dealer and it did not change anything... Unless there is a way to calibrate it, I'm not sure it is that. + +I also just finished cleaning every ground wire I could find on the boat. Hoping that might help." +"Any help appreciated on this: I replaced my impeller and thermostat this year. My motor turns off after approximately 3 mins I believe due to overheating. I don't see any water coming out of the ""pee hole"". I opened the plate on the thermostat and ran the motor and no water came through, any suggestions? + +Thanks, +Mark",Was water exiting the tell-tale (pee hole) immediately after you replaced the water pump impeller?,Was water exiting the tell-tale (pee hole) immediately after you replaced the water pump impeller?,I have the factory service manual that covers your motor. Send me a PM and I'll send you info on static timing (motor not running). Just did mine. Pretty straight forward. +"Any help appreciated on this: I replaced my impeller and thermostat this year. My motor turns off after approximately 3 mins I believe due to overheating. I don't see any water coming out of the ""pee hole"". I opened the plate on the thermostat and ran the motor and no water came through, any suggestions? + +Thanks, +Mark",Did you install the impellar the correct way around? I know this sounds silly but it is a common mistake ...,Did you install the impellar the correct way around? I know this sounds silly but it is a common mistake ...,"jan joyce said: + + + + Thank you for your response. The #4 carb is missing. It is a new carb. We have a manometer. Is there an inherent problem with the 2004 50 hp Yamaha motors model no. T50TLRC? We have adjusted the hex bolt, etc. Still cannot figure out why it is missing. Thank you for your help. + +Click to expand... + + +So you installed a new #4 carb, is this correct? A ""hex bolt"" adjustment.... Well im confused as to what hex bolt amd why it was adjusted. You didn't answer my question....did you follow the time and sync procedure in the service manual?" +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!","Knowing the engine hp and if it's a 2 or 4 stroke would be helpful. Also, i can see the engine ID plate in the last picture. Located on port side of engine bracket. This plate will indicate model/year.","Knowing the engine hp and if it's a 2 or 4 stroke would be helpful. Also, i can see the engine ID plate in the last picture. Located on port side of engine bracket. This plate will indicate model/year.",put in 2 batteries with 4 way switch[1-2-both-off] run the hauler on the battery you are not charging +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!","Sorry, the engine is a 200 hp. This is a pic of the ID plate but it does not say much. That ID plate might not belong to this engine.","Sorry, the engine is a 200 hp. This is a pic of the ID plate but it does not say much. That ID plate might not belong to this engine.","This link gives you a better picture of the set up you're looking for. + +http://www.ase-supply.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/sp_marine.pdf" +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!",Yamaha 2 strokes,Yamaha 2 strokes,If you want to find Johnson/Evinrude experts I recommend that you post your question on the Johnson/Evinrude Forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page and click on Forum Home. Then scroll to the Johnson/Evinrude Forum - it's the first one. +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!",Here are more pics:,Here are more pics:,Automotive is fine. I use a cheap $25 one I bought years ago and whilst it might not give me perfect numbers I know if I have a bad cylinder. A leaned out cylinder can do a piston pretty fast so worth doing the compression check and being sure before investing in more carb work etc. The good news is that those engines are both simple and cheap to rebuild if you need to do that. +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!",Carbureted or fuel injected?,Carbureted or fuel injected?,Thank you for the feedback. Glad it all worked out well for you. +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!",Carbureted,Carbureted,"Great information CHawk_man! + +The trailer does have rollers down the center and bunks as well! + +I'll check out the info on setting the trailer up that you referenced. + +Thanks!" +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!","Are there six individual carburetors or three sets of dual carburetors? + +Since the ID plate may not be for your engine, what are you seeing on the engine that convinces you its a yamaha?","Are there six individual carburetors or three sets of dual carburetors? + +Since the ID plate may not be for your engine, what are you seeing on the engine that convinces you its a yamaha?",Just about all auto parts stores carries those adaptors. +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!","Six individual carburetors. + +Before the engine was painted, it had all the original Yamaha stickers + +I will send you a picture of the cowling","Six individual carburetors. + +Before the engine was painted, it had all the original Yamaha stickers + +I will send you a picture of the cowling","Better to check for continuity using the continuity function of a VOM rather than the resistance/ohm setting. + +From the green lead to the green lead their should be no continuity. + +From either green lead to the red lead there should be continuity. + +From red to either green their should be no continuity. + +From black to either green lead or the red lead there should be continuity. + +The check for the lighting coil is .28 ohm from green lead to green lead. Make sure that neither green lead is shorted to ground. + +The output spec for the lighting coil is 10 volts or more at 3000 RPM and 15 plus or minus 1.5 volts at 5500 RPM. Remember that the output of the coil is AC. + +Generally, if the lighting coil is producing specification voltage but the rectifier is not then the conclusion is that the rectifier has failed. But make sure it has a good ground path." +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!","Name of the part you inquired about is the Prime Starter. It's actuated by 2 solenoids, A & B. The prime starter is specific for engine years of 1990-1993, and it is specific to 225hp. + +As far as the model, since the engine uses a carburetor solenoid valve it will be one of the models found in this link: +61A-86120-00-00 YAMAHA SOLENOID VALVE ASY + +If there is an electric fuel pump mounted below the carburetors then it will be known as the V76X model. This model uses the electronic fuel-enrichment solenoid, or ECS.","Name of the part you inquired about is the Prime Starter. It's actuated by 2 solenoids, A & B. The prime starter is specific for engine years of 1990-1993, and it is specific to 225hp. + +As far as the model, since the engine uses a carburetor solenoid valve it will be one of the models found in this link: +61A-86120-00-00 YAMAHA SOLENOID VALVE ASY + +If there is an electric fuel pump mounted below the carburetors then it will be known as the V76X model. This model uses the electronic fuel-enrichment solenoid, or ECS.","I took to it with my angle grinder and cut the transom open to reveal and remove all the rotted timber. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Yer certainly goin' 'bout it exactly opposite as most of Us do it,.... + +Generally, the inside of the hull is cut out for access, not the outside of the hull castin',...." +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!","Thank you very much for the help! + +The info you gave me help me also find the part number for this part [FONT="]Prime Starter 6r5-13921-01-0[/FONT][FONT="]0 + + +[/FONT]","Thank you very much for the help! + +The info you gave me help me also find the part number for this part [FONT="]Prime Starter 6r5-13921-01-0[/FONT][FONT="]0 + + +[/FONT]",.37 cents x what it weighs in #s = price I would pay. That is what scrap aluminum is going for by me. There is a lot of cosmetic damage to that motor I also don't see the controls. Unless it runs the day you buy it consider it non running scrap. If you are going to sell it for parts that's different then you can pay more. If it's your personal motor err on the side of caution because you will be footing the bill for the repairs. +"Hi there, I'm helping a friend to rebuild an Action Marine 19' but he is having a hard time with the engine. The year and model of the engine is unknown. I wonder if someone in the forum can figure out the part number and name of the part shown in the following pics:I would appreciate any help I can get! Thanks!","One of those is being sold on Ebay + +http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Start...d=351857335325&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850","One of those is being sold on Ebay + +http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prime-Start...d=351857335325&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850",Leave the gauges on while you sea trial. +"Took the boat out...was ridin about 20 mins and decided to start fishing. I put it in neutral and the engine died. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had to be towed in. I got it home and it will not start. When I turn the key it just clicks once and nothing. Batteries are charged. What could it be? Also to mention when I turn the key the lights do not come on. +One person told me it is nothing major, other told me lower unit could be blown. It is at the shop now but I am on pins and needles.","I wouldn't seek advice in the future from whomever told you the lower unit could be blown. From what you've described this is a power issue, not a mechanical issue. When you key ON the ignition and no accessories power on, such as the lights, would point to a power supply or delivery problem. You say batteries are fully charged, so this would mean power is not being delivered. Start by checking all battery connections. Free of corrosion and nutted down tight. Check connections on battery selector switch if you have one. Trace battery cables back to engine where they connect to starter motor. Once you've done all that, try starting motor. If still no good, get a multimeter and volt drop test the circuit.","I wouldn't seek advice in the future from whomever told you the lower unit could be blown. From what you've described this is a power issue, not a mechanical issue. When you key ON the ignition and no accessories power on, such as the lights, would point to a power supply or delivery problem. You say batteries are fully charged, so this would mean power is not being delivered. Start by checking all battery connections. Free of corrosion and nutted down tight. Check connections on battery selector switch if you have one. Trace battery cables back to engine where they connect to starter motor. Once you've done all that, try starting motor. If still no good, get a multimeter and volt drop test the circuit.","Makomark, + +Thanks for your replying to my post. I guess the touch up method is the way to go. The existing paint is in very good shape and color is fine. It was painted before I bought the boat, approximately three years ago. The scratches were cause by my learning to dock.This is my first boat.How do I deal with the clear coat in those spots? Thanks for your help." +"Took the boat out...was ridin about 20 mins and decided to start fishing. I put it in neutral and the engine died. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. I had to be towed in. I got it home and it will not start. When I turn the key it just clicks once and nothing. Batteries are charged. What could it be? Also to mention when I turn the key the lights do not come on. +One person told me it is nothing major, other told me lower unit could be blown. It is at the shop now but I am on pins and needles.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + I wouldn't seek advice in the future from whomever told you the lower unit could be blown. From what you've described this is a power issue, not a mechanical issue. When you key ON the ignition and no accessories power on, such as the lights, would point to a power supply or delivery problem. You say batteries are fully charged, so this would mean power is not being delivered. Start by checking all battery connections. Free of corrosion and nutted down tight. Check connections on battery selector switch if you have one. Trace battery cables back to engine where they connect to starter motor. Once you've done all that, try starting motor. If still no good, get a multimeter and volt drop test the circuit. + +Click to expand... + + +The guy called me last night from the shop (same guy that said it could be the lower unit...said he replaced a few fuses and the lights now work when you turn the key but still only one click from the motor so he doesn't think it is a power issue. He says it isn't the starter because it won't start when you hold a wrench to it. He keeps asking if any alarms went off and there were no alarms. I am beyond irritated because I just bought this boat last Wednesday and the 2nd time I take it out this happens. I am wondering if the guy that sold it to me knew the motor was about to go out.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + I wouldn't seek advice in the future from whomever told you the lower unit could be blown. From what you've described this is a power issue, not a mechanical issue. When you key ON the ignition and no accessories power on, such as the lights, would point to a power supply or delivery problem. You say batteries are fully charged, so this would mean power is not being delivered. Start by checking all battery connections. Free of corrosion and nutted down tight. Check connections on battery selector switch if you have one. Trace battery cables back to engine where they connect to starter motor. Once you've done all that, try starting motor. If still no good, get a multimeter and volt drop test the circuit. + +Click to expand... + + +The guy called me last night from the shop (same guy that said it could be the lower unit...said he replaced a few fuses and the lights now work when you turn the key but still only one click from the motor so he doesn't think it is a power issue. He says it isn't the starter because it won't start when you hold a wrench to it. He keeps asking if any alarms went off and there were no alarms. I am beyond irritated because I just bought this boat last Wednesday and the 2nd time I take it out this happens. I am wondering if the guy that sold it to me knew the motor was about to go out.",you may need to make a few more posts before you can post attachments.....use to testing forum....its the last one in the list... +"Short Summary: + + +SELOC manual instructs to position the piston at .13"" BTDC and to adjust the link joint length so that the timing indicator aligns with the marking on the flywheel. The specifications also list the full advanced timing as ~25, or 24-26. +Finding TDC with a dial indicator, the hash mark on the flywheel indicating TDC aligns perfectly with the reference arrow; however, when timing is adjusted properly using a dial indicator @ .13"" BTDC on my motor, the flywheel indicates the timing is at 22 degrees, not around the 25 degree mark. +When adjusting idle speed, the manual instructs the user to set the timing at 7 degrees ATDC, using the hash marks on the flywheel. + +Question: + +I presume the dial indicator method is the most accurate way of setting the timing and therefore is why the method is recommended instead of using the hash marks on the flywheel; however, the idle speed timing is supposed to be set using the marks on the flywheel instead of finding some determined piston position with a dial indicator. Since the dial indicator method has shown the degree marks on the flywheel are not an accurate indication, I presume they are also inaccurate for establishing proper idle timing. + +Does anyone have any suggestion on how to determine a proper idle setting using the dial indicator or other method? Not sure how I would calculate the piston position. + +Am I missing something or doing something wrong? + +I appreciate the help! + +edit: Motor is a 2003 25MSHB","Setting the ignition timing is pretty straightforward. No need to calculate position of piston since the markers on the wheel indicate TDC/BTDC. + +Here is a link for the service manual for your engine. Page 3-2. Follow the instructions. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...hop-manuals/382-2003-yamaha-20v-25v-25v2/file","Setting the ignition timing is pretty straightforward. No need to calculate position of piston since the markers on the wheel indicate TDC/BTDC. + +Here is a link for the service manual for your engine. Page 3-2. Follow the instructions. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...hop-manuals/382-2003-yamaha-20v-25v-25v2/file","Hey, is anybody out there who can advise please." +"Short Summary: + + +SELOC manual instructs to position the piston at .13"" BTDC and to adjust the link joint length so that the timing indicator aligns with the marking on the flywheel. The specifications also list the full advanced timing as ~25, or 24-26. +Finding TDC with a dial indicator, the hash mark on the flywheel indicating TDC aligns perfectly with the reference arrow; however, when timing is adjusted properly using a dial indicator @ .13"" BTDC on my motor, the flywheel indicates the timing is at 22 degrees, not around the 25 degree mark. +When adjusting idle speed, the manual instructs the user to set the timing at 7 degrees ATDC, using the hash marks on the flywheel. + +Question: + +I presume the dial indicator method is the most accurate way of setting the timing and therefore is why the method is recommended instead of using the hash marks on the flywheel; however, the idle speed timing is supposed to be set using the marks on the flywheel instead of finding some determined piston position with a dial indicator. Since the dial indicator method has shown the degree marks on the flywheel are not an accurate indication, I presume they are also inaccurate for establishing proper idle timing. + +Does anyone have any suggestion on how to determine a proper idle setting using the dial indicator or other method? Not sure how I would calculate the piston position. + +Am I missing something or doing something wrong? + +I appreciate the help! + +edit: Motor is a 2003 25MSHB","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Setting the ignition timing is pretty straightforward. No need to calculate position of piston since the markers on the wheel indicate TDC/BTDC. + +Here is a link for the service manual for your engine. Page 3-2. Follow the instructions. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...hop-manuals/382-2003-yamaha-20v-25v-25v2/file + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for that resource; however my motor, the 25M, isn't listed. I assume they are practically the same? Do you have a link for the 25M? + +I am a bit OCD when it comes to these things and want to ensure I get it all set up correctly and more so understand why it is the way it is.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Setting the ignition timing is pretty straightforward. No need to calculate position of piston since the markers on the wheel indicate TDC/BTDC. + +Here is a link for the service manual for your engine. Page 3-2. Follow the instructions. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...hop-manuals/382-2003-yamaha-20v-25v-25v2/file + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for that resource; however my motor, the 25M, isn't listed. I assume they are practically the same? Do you have a link for the 25M? + +I am a bit OCD when it comes to these things and want to ensure I get it all set up correctly and more so understand why it is the way it is.",Thanks racerone. +"Short Summary: + + +SELOC manual instructs to position the piston at .13"" BTDC and to adjust the link joint length so that the timing indicator aligns with the marking on the flywheel. The specifications also list the full advanced timing as ~25, or 24-26. +Finding TDC with a dial indicator, the hash mark on the flywheel indicating TDC aligns perfectly with the reference arrow; however, when timing is adjusted properly using a dial indicator @ .13"" BTDC on my motor, the flywheel indicates the timing is at 22 degrees, not around the 25 degree mark. +When adjusting idle speed, the manual instructs the user to set the timing at 7 degrees ATDC, using the hash marks on the flywheel. + +Question: + +I presume the dial indicator method is the most accurate way of setting the timing and therefore is why the method is recommended instead of using the hash marks on the flywheel; however, the idle speed timing is supposed to be set using the marks on the flywheel instead of finding some determined piston position with a dial indicator. Since the dial indicator method has shown the degree marks on the flywheel are not an accurate indication, I presume they are also inaccurate for establishing proper idle timing. + +Does anyone have any suggestion on how to determine a proper idle setting using the dial indicator or other method? Not sure how I would calculate the piston position. + +Am I missing something or doing something wrong? + +I appreciate the help! + +edit: Motor is a 2003 25MSHB","Actually yes, look at 3-3 – says to align the piston with a dial guage to .13"" BTDC and then set it accordingly. But .13"" BTDC does not align with 25 degrees as stated on 3-2, it aligns with 22 degrees.","Actually yes, look at 3-3 – says to align the piston with a dial guage to .13"" BTDC and then set it accordingly. But .13"" BTDC does not align with 25 degrees as stated on 3-2, it aligns with 22 degrees.","Could be lots of things. Faulty spark plug, HT lead, ignition coil, CDI, pulser coil, or stator. How are you confirming the inconsistent spark? + +If you haven't replaced the plugs yet, I would do that. Also note what the tips of the old ones look like when you take them out. If one looks much different than the other, then maybe one cylinder is just running extremely rich and not firing consistently. + +You can test the ignition coil, but you need the specs from the service manual (which I would strongly recommend buying.. well worth it)." +"Short Summary: + + +SELOC manual instructs to position the piston at .13"" BTDC and to adjust the link joint length so that the timing indicator aligns with the marking on the flywheel. The specifications also list the full advanced timing as ~25, or 24-26. +Finding TDC with a dial indicator, the hash mark on the flywheel indicating TDC aligns perfectly with the reference arrow; however, when timing is adjusted properly using a dial indicator @ .13"" BTDC on my motor, the flywheel indicates the timing is at 22 degrees, not around the 25 degree mark. +When adjusting idle speed, the manual instructs the user to set the timing at 7 degrees ATDC, using the hash marks on the flywheel. + +Question: + +I presume the dial indicator method is the most accurate way of setting the timing and therefore is why the method is recommended instead of using the hash marks on the flywheel; however, the idle speed timing is supposed to be set using the marks on the flywheel instead of finding some determined piston position with a dial indicator. Since the dial indicator method has shown the degree marks on the flywheel are not an accurate indication, I presume they are also inaccurate for establishing proper idle timing. + +Does anyone have any suggestion on how to determine a proper idle setting using the dial indicator or other method? Not sure how I would calculate the piston position. + +Am I missing something or doing something wrong? + +I appreciate the help! + +edit: Motor is a 2003 25MSHB","Turns out I read the dial guage wrong by a few markings...:rolleyes: + +But now the problem is that I can't get the link joint length screwed in enough to get to 25 degrees. It's close but not quite there.","Turns out I read the dial guage wrong by a few markings...:rolleyes: + +But now the problem is that I can't get the link joint length screwed in enough to get to 25 degrees. It's close but not quite there.",After replacing the fuel and air regulators on the port fuel along with the regulator springs and injectors seals the engine started right up once pressure was reached. Ran better than ever for hours and then suddenly shut down like it was turn off. Was not able to be restarted. This sounds more electrical than fuel now though. Any direction to go now? +"1998 150 TLRW. When checking the sensor, should the resistance change over the range for both black to pink AND black to orange? + +Im measuring black to pink = 807 to 10 ohm. This reading changes I when I move sensor + +black to orange = 1046 ohm. This reading does NOT change as I move the sensor. + +is this sensor bad?","Spec trim sensor resistance: + +Pink - Black: 582-873 ohms +Orange - Black: 800-1200 ohms + +There should be a gradual change of resistance as you move the lever.","Spec trim sensor resistance: + +Pink - Black: 582-873 ohms +Orange - Black: 800-1200 ohms + +There should be a gradual change of resistance as you move the lever.","Gas or diesel engine? Bigger battery for diesel. Battery could have something on that discharged it completely. Probably no good, but you could try charging it. For starting a regular battery, for house use (lights, etc.) deep cycle. For starting I always buy the battery with the longest guarantee and highest cranking amps. They last much longer than the cheaper ones. In my diesel pickup the batteries are from 2010. In boats I use 8d, but I have big diesels." +I rebuilt all six carburators. They don't have choke butterflys. If we put hands over the carbs to flood each one it will start and run.After first starting it starts fine. What can I look for?,"Too much air mixture is the minor issue. Head gasket is the bigger issue. It needs more fuel in the combustion chamber to fire up. Once you started it, rev it up and test the primer bulb to see if it's soft. If so, fuel diaphragm is ruptured/bad. + +Basic diagnostic starts with compression, spark and fuel/air mixture. + +Good luck.","Too much air mixture is the minor issue. Head gasket is the bigger issue. It needs more fuel in the combustion chamber to fire up. Once you started it, rev it up and test the primer bulb to see if it's soft. If so, fuel diaphragm is ruptured/bad. + +Basic diagnostic starts with compression, spark and fuel/air mixture. + +Good luck.",Scoring is NOT normal.-----Pistons will likely show more damage on the skirt.-------If you do not have to WORK for money than you do not have to take care of stuff.----Just get a new one when something goes wrong. +I rebuilt all six carburators. They don't have choke butterflys. If we put hands over the carbs to flood each one it will start and run.After first starting it starts fine. What can I look for?,I have now changed head gaskets and still have a starting problem. It seems to me that if this engine had a standard choke set up every thing would be fine. Once the engine has been started and run to operating tempature it starts fine there after.,I have now changed head gaskets and still have a starting problem. It seems to me that if this engine had a standard choke set up every thing would be fine. Once the engine has been started and run to operating tempature it starts fine there after.,"Hard to imagine no leaks either way (into and out from), but if its clean and free of oil why not fill it with the epoxy? + +Surely not a real fix but may buy you time to locate a replacement housing." +I rebuilt all six carburators. They don't have choke butterflys. If we put hands over the carbs to flood each one it will start and run.After first starting it starts fine. What can I look for?,"Klrfish, +If it doesn't have the choke butterfly then it should have a fuel enrichener instead. There should be another small fuel lines going to the carbs. These fuel lines are controlled by an electronic valve. This is your choke BTW. When you press the choke it opens the valve and allow more fuel going to the carbs. GL.","Klrfish, +If it doesn't have the choke butterfly then it should have a fuel enrichener instead. There should be another small fuel lines going to the carbs. These fuel lines are controlled by an electronic valve. This is your choke BTW. When you press the choke it opens the valve and allow more fuel going to the carbs. GL.","Yes right guy. +This is Boat Electric's own control board. + +MP stands for metering pump-espar fuel metering pump + +All you need to get the heater going should be main 12v POS. and NEG., fuel metering pump, and apply 12v+ to whatever goes to the yellow wire on the heater side of the square/ oval plug that seperates the heater from the control board. I assume your unit has an internal water pump. If it has an external pump then it must be connected or the heater will not start. If you need any more assistance I can try to find the schematics, but it will take alot of digging through piles of old paperwork in boxes, so I hope this gets you going! Let me know how you make out." +I rebuilt all six carburators. They don't have choke butterflys. If we put hands over the carbs to flood each one it will start and run.After first starting it starts fine. What can I look for?,"promethazine over the counter and even buy diflucan We try to do our greatest and supply hassle-free service for every purchaser, our on the web store is intuitive and everybody can get much more info from our on the web experts-consultants.order promethazine without a ************","promethazine over the counter and even buy diflucan We try to do our greatest and supply hassle-free service for every purchaser, our on the web store is intuitive and everybody can get much more info from our on the web experts-consultants.order promethazine without a ************",if its flexible enough.....i would closely inspect the rollers and little brackets that the cable runs thru and make sure they are in good shape...its been a long time since i run that kind of steering but back in its day that was more important than the cable and one of the failure points... +found milky fuel mix in lower cylinder intake!!!! where is it coming from?? HELP Please,"inspected exhaust manifold, found small hole in exhaust plate at lower cylinder. +Cleaned and repaired with PC fahrenheit epoxy putty- can with stand extreme temps up to 500f/260C. +Should fix leak quite easily. +Unfortunately previous work by others on this engine led me to find 7 of the 18 bolts have been broken off...... + +***note to others use grease when putting bolts back after a repair, this is MECHANICS 101.....will save alot of greif!!!! idiots.....","inspected exhaust manifold, found small hole in exhaust plate at lower cylinder. +Cleaned and repaired with PC fahrenheit epoxy putty- can with stand extreme temps up to 500f/260C. +Should fix leak quite easily. +Unfortunately previous work by others on this engine led me to find 7 of the 18 bolts have been broken off...... + +***note to others use grease when putting bolts back after a repair, this is MECHANICS 101.....will save alot of greif!!!! idiots.....","then go with your preferences....just understand all the trades so you can make the solution optimal for your needs....and don't be surprised to find other opinions. + +Haven't investigated DC-DC chargers but I'd think that's not only expensive but more complicated...." +"Hello, I have a 130 hp Yamaha that partially shuts down on me after about 5 mins of WOT. +I suspect the Thermo Switch Assembly is shutting down one bank of cylinders. Only stays +shut down for about a minute after throttling back. Once in shut down mode I use an infrared +temperature gun and check the cylinders from the outside. One cylinder reads 150F. The others 140F. + +My question concerns the switch. +Does anyone know the specs on the trip temperature for the Thermo Switch? + +I'm hoping the switch may be too sensitive. Of course, there may be a slight leak of the head gasket. +Hope not. Thx in advance for any info.","Why do you suspect the stats? If high temp was detected by the stats, the circuit would open and send the signal to the tach gauge. You'd see the temp symbol flashing on your tach gauge, you'd hear an audible alarm, and the engine would resort to limp mode. You didn't mention any of these signs. Also, if the high temp alarm is activated the thermo switches don't shut down the overheating bank. The high temp alarm activates limp mode (<2000 rpms). + +The thermo switch discontinuity is up to about 180º. Any higher temp, continuity, thereby setting off alarm. So the temps you've measured aren't high enough to set off alarm, they are actually normal operating temps. And it's normal to have a difference in temp between banks. + +Since you did not mention any alarm activation, I would be looking at your fuel system as the problem.","Why do you suspect the stats? If high temp was detected by the stats, the circuit would open and send the signal to the tach gauge. You'd see the temp symbol flashing on your tach gauge, you'd hear an audible alarm, and the engine would resort to limp mode. You didn't mention any of these signs. Also, if the high temp alarm is activated the thermo switches don't shut down the overheating bank. The high temp alarm activates limp mode (<2000 rpms). + +The thermo switch discontinuity is up to about 180º. Any higher temp, continuity, thereby setting off alarm. So the temps you've measured aren't high enough to set off alarm, they are actually normal operating temps. And it's normal to have a difference in temp between banks. + +Since you did not mention any alarm activation, I would be looking at your fuel system as the problem.","Thx for your input -- + +DeeJay -- The OEM set up is fuel tank... filters... fuel primer balls... engine... The tank has an independent vent linen from the tank that vents through a Perko, dual purpose vented gas cap. The fuel vent seems to function properly when the boat is not moving ( not sure who moving ) + +Deep -- Could not change the pick up lines - they're welded in place. However, a root rooter type device was used to clean each pick up and was driven through the bottom of the pick up ( so, no screen or filter )." +"Hello, I have a 130 hp Yamaha that partially shuts down on me after about 5 mins of WOT. +I suspect the Thermo Switch Assembly is shutting down one bank of cylinders. Only stays +shut down for about a minute after throttling back. Once in shut down mode I use an infrared +temperature gun and check the cylinders from the outside. One cylinder reads 150F. The others 140F. + +My question concerns the switch. +Does anyone know the specs on the trip temperature for the Thermo Switch? + +I'm hoping the switch may be too sensitive. Of course, there may be a slight leak of the head gasket. +Hope not. Thx in advance for any info.","Thx for your reply ClassicAQ. I have some new info on its behavior. + +With the engine cover off and one thermo switch disconnected I ran WOT again. Same thing after a few minutes, partial shut down. I reached back and unplugged the other thermo switch and engine immediately jumped back to full power. Had an Hurray moment then suspecting one or both switches. + +Still confused though. I'd also placed each switch in a pot of water on the stove with ohm meter attached. Each went from open to closed at your mentioned temp 180-185. ??? + +Not sure if my other alarm system even works. I'm at least the third owner. Have never heard an alarm. Didn't know about the red light on the tach. Thanks for that info. Oh and you used the term ""stats"". I'm not familiar with that.","Thx for your reply ClassicAQ. I have some new info on its behavior. + +With the engine cover off and one thermo switch disconnected I ran WOT again. Same thing after a few minutes, partial shut down. I reached back and unplugged the other thermo switch and engine immediately jumped back to full power. Had an Hurray moment then suspecting one or both switches. + +Still confused though. I'd also placed each switch in a pot of water on the stove with ohm meter attached. Each went from open to closed at your mentioned temp 180-185. ??? + +Not sure if my other alarm system even works. I'm at least the third owner. Have never heard an alarm. Didn't know about the red light on the tach. Thanks for that info. Oh and you used the term ""stats"". I'm not familiar with that.","Depends upon exactly what you are referring to by a ""hydraulic stern line""..... + +If it is a 'field run' steering line, usually yes; if its a crimped end, one usually replaces the entire line. + +without know what you have, its hard to provide a definitive answer. + +Finally, if you live in a ""big town"" you're likely to have a hydraulic shop near-by (most work on ag or construction equipment); they can normally provide any need part or service for a reasonable figure....take some pictures and make a visit and ask...." +"Hello, I have a 130 hp Yamaha that partially shuts down on me after about 5 mins of WOT. +I suspect the Thermo Switch Assembly is shutting down one bank of cylinders. Only stays +shut down for about a minute after throttling back. Once in shut down mode I use an infrared +temperature gun and check the cylinders from the outside. One cylinder reads 150F. The others 140F. + +My question concerns the switch. +Does anyone know the specs on the trip temperature for the Thermo Switch? + +I'm hoping the switch may be too sensitive. Of course, there may be a slight leak of the head gasket. +Hope not. Thx in advance for any info.","One other thing. I'm wondering if the oiler alarm is in series with the temp switches I disabled. If so, that would also disable oiler alarms once I disable the temp switches. Not good. + +I've ordered the after market repair manual. Hopefully that will have that info. Thx again for the help.","One other thing. I'm wondering if the oiler alarm is in series with the temp switches I disabled. If so, that would also disable oiler alarms once I disable the temp switches. Not good. + +I've ordered the after market repair manual. Hopefully that will have that info. Thx again for the help.","Again, sorry, I was on holidays and did not check the forum. I am sure you have got help since or given up. But if you still want info here it is. If it is not firing, and the glow plug. Coils should be symmetrical with no bulging, and fuel pump are ok then the fuel atomizing screen needs to be replaced Part # 25 1822 06 04 00 You should also check the filter in the fuel pump, in the suction end of the pump.It is inside the pump under the suction spigot, like a thimble inside the pump orofice. DO NOT TOUCH THE NUTS ON THE DELIVERY END OF THE PUMP. The diesel smell is from excess diesel in the exhaust that seeps out the exhaust joints. You should seal the joinst with muffler cement ot high heaqt silicone. One the heater has fired, let it run for an hour on high and the diesel will smoke off eventually. You can check the Espar at 1-800-387- 4800 in Canada for worldwide dealers. Sorry I missed your post." +"Hello, I have a 130 hp Yamaha that partially shuts down on me after about 5 mins of WOT. +I suspect the Thermo Switch Assembly is shutting down one bank of cylinders. Only stays +shut down for about a minute after throttling back. Once in shut down mode I use an infrared +temperature gun and check the cylinders from the outside. One cylinder reads 150F. The others 140F. + +My question concerns the switch. +Does anyone know the specs on the trip temperature for the Thermo Switch? + +I'm hoping the switch may be too sensitive. Of course, there may be a slight leak of the head gasket. +Hope not. Thx in advance for any info.","Thinman said: + + + + Thx for your reply ClassicAQ. I have some new info on its behavior. + +With the engine cover off and one thermo switch disconnected I ran WOT again. Same thing after a few minutes, partial shut down. I reached back and unplugged the other thermo switch and engine immediately jumped back to full power. Had an Hurray moment then suspecting one or both switches. + +Still confused though. I'd also placed each switch in a pot of water on the stove with ohm meter attached. Each went from open to closed at your mentioned temp 180-185. ??? + +Not sure if my other alarm system even works. I'm at least the third owner. Have never heard an alarm. Didn't know about the red light on the tach. Thanks for that info. Oh and you used the term ""stats"". I'm not familiar with that. + +Click to expand... + + +Disregard my use of the word ""stats"", as I was meaning to type sensors. I've attached a copy of the thermosensor test procedure. There will be no continuity (closed circuit) through sensor until the temp reaches 180-185º, at which point the circuit opens and is continuous. + +Re: Disconnecting sensors from engine while running +If you got the alarm while running with only one sensor, did you also disconnect this sensor and replace the former disconnected sensor, then run engine again? From what I take, you disconnected one sensor, ran engine, got the alarm, then disconnected the lone sensor (no sensors installed), ran engine, did not get the alarm. Is this correct? + +Because if so, all you did was completely disable the high temp alarm system. By pulling out both sensors the engine has no way to communicate with the alarm system. So essentially, if you kept both sensors disconnected and continued to run the engine as it overheats....only a matter of time, rather seconds, before disaster. With all of this said, if you can get your hands on an external temp laser you'll know for sure if you've got an electrical alarm issue or over heat issue. + +Your low oil alarm is separate from high temp alarm. Two different circuits involved. + + +Below is the procedure to test your high temp and low oil alarm systems: + +To test the over temperature system on 99% of all Yams simply disconnect the pink wire and the black wire connected to the thermoswitch. Then connect the black wire to the pink wire on the engine side harness and start the motor. Wait up to a minute or so. You should hear the horn. If you have certain Yamaha tachometers (or maybe lights on the motor or on the dash) the lights will illuminate or an icon will flash. So, with the horn you know there is a problem. With the light or icon you will know what the problem is related to. + +To test the low oil quantity system in an oil injected two stroke simply drain the oil from the main engine mounted tank. Start the motor. The horn will be sounding indicating there is a problem. If you have certain Yamaha tachometers (or maybe lights on the motor or on the dash) the lights will illuminate or an icon will flash. So, with the horn you know there is a problem. With the light or icon you will know what the problem is related to. Refill the oil tank.","Thinman said: + + + + Thx for your reply ClassicAQ. I have some new info on its behavior. + +With the engine cover off and one thermo switch disconnected I ran WOT again. Same thing after a few minutes, partial shut down. I reached back and unplugged the other thermo switch and engine immediately jumped back to full power. Had an Hurray moment then suspecting one or both switches. + +Still confused though. I'd also placed each switch in a pot of water on the stove with ohm meter attached. Each went from open to closed at your mentioned temp 180-185. ??? + +Not sure if my other alarm system even works. I'm at least the third owner. Have never heard an alarm. Didn't know about the red light on the tach. Thanks for that info. Oh and you used the term ""stats"". I'm not familiar with that. + +Click to expand... + + +Disregard my use of the word ""stats"", as I was meaning to type sensors. I've attached a copy of the thermosensor test procedure. There will be no continuity (closed circuit) through sensor until the temp reaches 180-185º, at which point the circuit opens and is continuous. + +Re: Disconnecting sensors from engine while running +If you got the alarm while running with only one sensor, did you also disconnect this sensor and replace the former disconnected sensor, then run engine again? From what I take, you disconnected one sensor, ran engine, got the alarm, then disconnected the lone sensor (no sensors installed), ran engine, did not get the alarm. Is this correct? + +Because if so, all you did was completely disable the high temp alarm system. By pulling out both sensors the engine has no way to communicate with the alarm system. So essentially, if you kept both sensors disconnected and continued to run the engine as it overheats....only a matter of time, rather seconds, before disaster. With all of this said, if you can get your hands on an external temp laser you'll know for sure if you've got an electrical alarm issue or over heat issue. + +Your low oil alarm is separate from high temp alarm. Two different circuits involved. + + +Below is the procedure to test your high temp and low oil alarm systems: + +To test the over temperature system on 99% of all Yams simply disconnect the pink wire and the black wire connected to the thermoswitch. Then connect the black wire to the pink wire on the engine side harness and start the motor. Wait up to a minute or so. You should hear the horn. If you have certain Yamaha tachometers (or maybe lights on the motor or on the dash) the lights will illuminate or an icon will flash. So, with the horn you know there is a problem. With the light or icon you will know what the problem is related to. + +To test the low oil quantity system in an oil injected two stroke simply drain the oil from the main engine mounted tank. Start the motor. The horn will be sounding indicating there is a problem. If you have certain Yamaha tachometers (or maybe lights on the motor or on the dash) the lights will illuminate or an icon will flash. So, with the horn you know there is a problem. With the light or icon you will know what the problem is related to. Refill the oil tank.","Had this on honda once, the fuel bowl vent on he vapour separator was blocked, as vacuum built up high pressure pump began starving, it a long shot but worth checking" +"Hello, I have a 130 hp Yamaha that partially shuts down on me after about 5 mins of WOT. +I suspect the Thermo Switch Assembly is shutting down one bank of cylinders. Only stays +shut down for about a minute after throttling back. Once in shut down mode I use an infrared +temperature gun and check the cylinders from the outside. One cylinder reads 150F. The others 140F. + +My question concerns the switch. +Does anyone know the specs on the trip temperature for the Thermo Switch? + +I'm hoping the switch may be too sensitive. Of course, there may be a slight leak of the head gasket. +Hope not. Thx in advance for any info.","OK, Good news update. + +Had time to remove the head on the cylinder bank that shuts down. Looked to have leak. +Glass beaded and milled the head. Put a new head gasket in and ran it WOT for twice earlier distance. No problems.... + +Looking better.","OK, Good news update. + +Had time to remove the head on the cylinder bank that shuts down. Looked to have leak. +Glass beaded and milled the head. Put a new head gasket in and ran it WOT for twice earlier distance. No problems.... + +Looking better.","sounds like you need to rebuild the carb or the primer systems is failed + +mine starts every time, but use it 2 times a week" +"I have a 200 HP with50 hours and after I run the engine for about 10-20 min at 80% RPM the engine will have a slight misfire during idle and cruse speeds. This misfire appears after its warm and does not appear when the engine is cool. I have had the engine in the shop they cannot find anything. Could it be the plastic filters that are on the lower end unit have smaller holes, which would not permit enough water to the pump.","20pacnav said: + + + + Could it be the plastic filters that are on the lower end unit have smaller holes, which would not permit enough water to the pump. + +Click to expand... + + +No. A obstruction/restriction in the cooling system would not cause the engine to sputter/miss as you've described. This sounds fuel system related, as the majority of outboard engine issues usually are.","20pacnav said: + + + + Could it be the plastic filters that are on the lower end unit have smaller holes, which would not permit enough water to the pump. + +Click to expand... + + +No. A obstruction/restriction in the cooling system would not cause the engine to sputter/miss as you've described. This sounds fuel system related, as the majority of outboard engine issues usually are.",Double post +"I have a 200 HP with50 hours and after I run the engine for about 10-20 min at 80% RPM the engine will have a slight misfire during idle and cruse speeds. This misfire appears after its warm and does not appear when the engine is cool. I have had the engine in the shop they cannot find anything. Could it be the plastic filters that are on the lower end unit have smaller holes, which would not permit enough water to the pump.",Thank you for your reply. I have replaced the fuel filter and did not show any improvement. I had a Yamaha service center run diagnostics on the motor and they could not find anything. This all star Happening after add about 15 miles an hour I had some soft mud. If I take the boat out of the water and wait a few days and put it back in the water it's good for about a 15 to 20 minute 80% run and then it acts up all afternoon at any speed. it's just on intermittent miss but it feels strange when you're cruising. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond.,Thank you for your reply. I have replaced the fuel filter and did not show any improvement. I had a Yamaha service center run diagnostics on the motor and they could not find anything. This all star Happening after add about 15 miles an hour I had some soft mud. If I take the boat out of the water and wait a few days and put it back in the water it's good for about a 15 to 20 minute 80% run and then it acts up all afternoon at any speed. it's just on intermittent miss but it feels strange when you're cruising. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond.,"I went through every power connection and ground on the entire starboard side. I ohm'd every section of +/- wire I could. I ended up finding that the main + wire coming from the battery had a lock washer on it and it wasn't fully tight. It wasn't loose but it wasn't tight enough to fully seat the lock washer on the wire's end connector. I tossed that washer, cleaned the terminal and the connector and reassembled with some liquid electrical tape. That seemed to solve the problem." +"I have a 200 HP with50 hours and after I run the engine for about 10-20 min at 80% RPM the engine will have a slight misfire during idle and cruse speeds. This misfire appears after its warm and does not appear when the engine is cool. I have had the engine in the shop they cannot find anything. Could it be the plastic filters that are on the lower end unit have smaller holes, which would not permit enough water to the pump.","The service centers diagnostic test would probably not turn up anything for what you've described. It would require a tech to get his hands on the engine and troubleshoot. If the service center you went to couldn't fix the problem I'd find another Yam service center who will put in the effort to find the issue. What you're describing isn't normal, and the engine should not continue to be run until it's fixed. If not, the problem will indeed become worse.","The service centers diagnostic test would probably not turn up anything for what you've described. It would require a tech to get his hands on the engine and troubleshoot. If the service center you went to couldn't fix the problem I'd find another Yam service center who will put in the effort to find the issue. What you're describing isn't normal, and the engine should not continue to be run until it's fixed. If not, the problem will indeed become worse.",.37 cents x what it weighs in #s = price I would pay. That is what scrap aluminum is going for by me. There is a lot of cosmetic damage to that motor I also don't see the controls. Unless it runs the day you buy it consider it non running scrap. If you are going to sell it for parts that's different then you can pay more. If it's your personal motor err on the side of caution because you will be footing the bill for the repairs. +"Hi, I have a 1992 Yamaha 40hp manual start that the previous owner had lost the cowling to. When buying the motor from him, I assumed that a replacement cowling wouldn't be hard to find. I was way wrong. After looking at ebay, an ever expanding radius of mechanics and boatyards, and an expanding list of online parts sites, I'm becoming resigned to the fact that I might have to modify a close match cowling to fit or fabricate one. I should say first that I can find the OEM part, but they're upwards of $700 and I'm way too cheap and value my time way too little to pay that kind of money. I'm thinking about either getting a hold of an electric start version of this cowling and modifying it to accept the manual start rope, or fabricating one from sheet metal or fiberglass. So I have a couple of questions were I to go down one of those paths. The first and most obvious of those questions is, does anyone have this cowling that they wanted to sell to me? After that, has anyone had to modify an existing cowling to do what I'm trying to do? Can anyone recommend a cowling that is a close enough fit to this motor that very little mod is necessary? And finally, if I formed it out of fiberglass and epoxy, would it get too hot? Thanks in advance, +-Ethan",your location ?,your location ?,Those mags were known to have bad rotors shorting to ground. +"Hi, I have a 1992 Yamaha 40hp manual start that the previous owner had lost the cowling to. When buying the motor from him, I assumed that a replacement cowling wouldn't be hard to find. I was way wrong. After looking at ebay, an ever expanding radius of mechanics and boatyards, and an expanding list of online parts sites, I'm becoming resigned to the fact that I might have to modify a close match cowling to fit or fabricate one. I should say first that I can find the OEM part, but they're upwards of $700 and I'm way too cheap and value my time way too little to pay that kind of money. I'm thinking about either getting a hold of an electric start version of this cowling and modifying it to accept the manual start rope, or fabricating one from sheet metal or fiberglass. So I have a couple of questions were I to go down one of those paths. The first and most obvious of those questions is, does anyone have this cowling that they wanted to sell to me? After that, has anyone had to modify an existing cowling to do what I'm trying to do? Can anyone recommend a cowling that is a close enough fit to this motor that very little mod is necessary? And finally, if I formed it out of fiberglass and epoxy, would it get too hot? Thanks in advance, +-Ethan","I'm in Olympia, Washington","I'm in Olympia, Washington","The cowling is not waterproof as it has one ten inch long, jagged crack in the center of the front panel and a second crack on the port edge of the front. I am hoping to find out what company manufactures Mercury cowlings to get a lead on the plastic characteristics." +"Hi, I have a 1992 Yamaha 40hp manual start that the previous owner had lost the cowling to. When buying the motor from him, I assumed that a replacement cowling wouldn't be hard to find. I was way wrong. After looking at ebay, an ever expanding radius of mechanics and boatyards, and an expanding list of online parts sites, I'm becoming resigned to the fact that I might have to modify a close match cowling to fit or fabricate one. I should say first that I can find the OEM part, but they're upwards of $700 and I'm way too cheap and value my time way too little to pay that kind of money. I'm thinking about either getting a hold of an electric start version of this cowling and modifying it to accept the manual start rope, or fabricating one from sheet metal or fiberglass. So I have a couple of questions were I to go down one of those paths. The first and most obvious of those questions is, does anyone have this cowling that they wanted to sell to me? After that, has anyone had to modify an existing cowling to do what I'm trying to do? Can anyone recommend a cowling that is a close enough fit to this motor that very little mod is necessary? And finally, if I formed it out of fiberglass and epoxy, would it get too hot? Thanks in advance, +-Ethan","Sorry, too far away to be able to help on that item.","Sorry, too far away to be able to help on that item.","You can't, the lock is controlled by the hydraulics on the tilt/trim. When you are quickly backing up the power of the motor is overriding the power of the tilt/trim. If it is riding completely out of the water you have a trim/tilt issue. The hydraulics aren't strong enough." +I have found while changing my lower unit oil a little metal shavings do I need another lower unit. If so where do I get a good used one and what other outboard lower unit would fit it?,"You won't know if you need a new LU until you know why there is metal shavings. The gear case needs to be disassembled and inspected. Perhaps you caught the problem early enough to prevent the need for a new LU. + +Ebay and craigslist","You won't know if you need a new LU until you know why there is metal shavings. The gear case needs to be disassembled and inspected. Perhaps you caught the problem early enough to prevent the need for a new LU. + +Ebay and craigslist",Need help I have a yamaha 2013 90hp 4 stroke motor runs good for about hour and half then buzzer sounds check oil quart low fill up with oil and can run again any sugestion? +I have found while changing my lower unit oil a little metal shavings do I need another lower unit. If so where do I get a good used one and what other outboard lower unit would fit it?,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + You won't know if you need a new LU until you know why there is metal shavings. The gear case needs to be disassembled and inspected. Perhaps you caught the problem early enough to prevent the need for a new LU. + +Ebay and craigslist + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks I do plan on tackling that job this week so thanks for the information.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + You won't know if you need a new LU until you know why there is metal shavings. The gear case needs to be disassembled and inspected. Perhaps you caught the problem early enough to prevent the need for a new LU. + +Ebay and craigslist + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks I do plan on tackling that job this week so thanks for the information.",When the level gets low check the wires from the sensor to the pump and see if you have power. Also check to see if you have power to the small tank sensor as that is basically just a switch +Cannot synch the carbs on a 2004 yamaha 50 hp outboard. New #4 carb rruns higher than other 3. Thanks,"Have you followed the time and sync procedure in your service manual? And what do you mean ""runs higher""?","Have you followed the time and sync procedure in your service manual? And what do you mean ""runs higher""?",do not buy a maintenance free one(sealed)... +Cannot synch the carbs on a 2004 yamaha 50 hp outboard. New #4 carb rruns higher than other 3. Thanks,"Thank you for your response. The #4 carb is missing. It is a new carb. We have a manometer. Is there an inherent problem with the 2004 50 hp Yamaha motors model no. T50TLRC? We have adjusted the hex bolt, etc. Still cannot figure out why it is missing. Thank you for your help.","Thank you for your response. The #4 carb is missing. It is a new carb. We have a manometer. Is there an inherent problem with the 2004 50 hp Yamaha motors model no. T50TLRC? We have adjusted the hex bolt, etc. Still cannot figure out why it is missing. Thank you for your help.",http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...o?pid=1593&familyName=Baltek+Airex+PXc+Boards +Cannot synch the carbs on a 2004 yamaha 50 hp outboard. New #4 carb rruns higher than other 3. Thanks,"Thank you for your response. The #4 carb is missing. It is a new carb. We have a manometer. Is there an inherent problem with the 2004 50 hp Yamaha motors model no. T50TLRC? We have adjusted the hex bolt, etc. Still cannot figure out why it is missing. Thank you for your help.","Thank you for your response. The #4 carb is missing. It is a new carb. We have a manometer. Is there an inherent problem with the 2004 50 hp Yamaha motors model no. T50TLRC? We have adjusted the hex bolt, etc. Still cannot figure out why it is missing. Thank you for your help.",I think you will find a vacuum pump with a bleeder bottle more effective than an air compressor for bleeding out the brake lines.... +Cannot synch the carbs on a 2004 yamaha 50 hp outboard. New #4 carb rruns higher than other 3. Thanks,Have you got spark on that #4 cylinder ??,Have you got spark on that #4 cylinder ??,"racerone said: + + + + Water pump maintained ?-----------Compression test values are ?[/QUO + +Recent replacements- spark plugs, water pump, fuel pump, water/ fuel separator, carbuerators completely rebuilt,fuel filters, + +My mechanic is stumped in what is causing this issue to happen intermittently, has offered to have another mechanic checked it out and see if they can find something and he will pay bills. +However I would like ideas and suggestions to keep from getting ripped off on unneeded services. + +Click to expand..." +Cannot synch the carbs on a 2004 yamaha 50 hp outboard. New #4 carb rruns higher than other 3. Thanks,"Yes. And we have all new spark plugs. Thanks. Checked and no water in gas and hput in new gas. New plugs. #4 is new carb.; compression check 2 times and all even around 150 psi; new gas line, no vacuum leaks, swapped coils 3 times; value adjustment checked; fuel pressure running at 4 psi. + +What is the psi for the fuel pump? Are there problems on this model T50 TLRC Yamaha 50 hp 4 stroke? What would you recommend we try? Thank you.","Yes. And we have all new spark plugs. Thanks. Checked and no water in gas and hput in new gas. New plugs. #4 is new carb.; compression check 2 times and all even around 150 psi; new gas line, no vacuum leaks, swapped coils 3 times; value adjustment checked; fuel pressure running at 4 psi. + +What is the psi for the fuel pump? Are there problems on this model T50 TLRC Yamaha 50 hp 4 stroke? What would you recommend we try? Thank you.",A cordless 1/4 drive impact driver makes disassembly alot easier just get a socket adaptor. +Cannot synch the carbs on a 2004 yamaha 50 hp outboard. New #4 carb rruns higher than other 3. Thanks,"Yes. And we have all new spark plugs. Thanks. Checked and no water in gas and hput in new gas. New plugs. #4 is new carb.; compression check 2 times and all even around 150 psi; new gas line, no vacuum leaks, swapped coils 3 times; value adjustment checked; fuel pressure running at 4 psi. + +What is the psi for the fuel pump? Are there problems on this model T50 TLRC Yamaha 50 hp 4 stroke? What would you recommend we try? Thank you.​ +Last edited by jan joyce; Today at 09:09 PM. Reason: add more information​","Yes. And we have all new spark plugs. Thanks. Checked and no water in gas and hput in new gas. New plugs. #4 is new carb.; compression check 2 times and all even around 150 psi; new gas line, no vacuum leaks, swapped coils 3 times; value adjustment checked; fuel pressure running at 4 psi. + +What is the psi for the fuel pump? Are there problems on this model T50 TLRC Yamaha 50 hp 4 stroke? What would you recommend we try? Thank you.​ +Last edited by jan joyce; Today at 09:09 PM. Reason: add more information​","I think it is a fuel flow issue to the cylinders. Whatever you do, don't push it. STOP NOW! You'll fry cylinders at high RPM as I learned the hard way about partiallly clogged fuel jets. Pull those brass fuel jets from every carb and make sure they are perfectly clean and clear. Blow carb cleaner through them. If I were to guess, you have partially clogged fuel jets gummed up with this ethanol fuel we have been subjected to. The problem doesn't show up until you are trying to feed serious fuel at higher RPM's. Clean those jets and see if the problem goes away. Even if the problem goes away, pull all the carbs and clean them all thoroughly with carb cleaner. Restricted fuel to any cylinder in a 2-stroke is the kiss of death. Low fuel at high RPM = Low lubrication provided by the oil in the fuel to that cylinder." +Cannot synch the carbs on a 2004 yamaha 50 hp outboard. New #4 carb rruns higher than other 3. Thanks,"jan joyce said: + + + + Thank you for your response. The #4 carb is missing. It is a new carb. We have a manometer. Is there an inherent problem with the 2004 50 hp Yamaha motors model no. T50TLRC? We have adjusted the hex bolt, etc. Still cannot figure out why it is missing. Thank you for your help. + +Click to expand... + + +So you installed a new #4 carb, is this correct? A ""hex bolt"" adjustment.... Well im confused as to what hex bolt amd why it was adjusted. You didn't answer my question....did you follow the time and sync procedure in the service manual?","jan joyce said: + + + + Thank you for your response. The #4 carb is missing. It is a new carb. We have a manometer. Is there an inherent problem with the 2004 50 hp Yamaha motors model no. T50TLRC? We have adjusted the hex bolt, etc. Still cannot figure out why it is missing. Thank you for your help. + +Click to expand... + + +So you installed a new #4 carb, is this correct? A ""hex bolt"" adjustment.... Well im confused as to what hex bolt amd why it was adjusted. You didn't answer my question....did you follow the time and sync procedure in the service manual?","Yes, in the exact middle, only. Anti-cavitation plate should be even with the bottom-most point of the transom, unless you are using a motor extension. If so, raise the anti-cavitation plate 1 inch for every 1 foot of offset from the transom." +Cannot synch the carbs on a 2004 yamaha 50 hp outboard. New #4 carb rruns higher than other 3. Thanks,"jan joyce said: + + + +Are there problems on this model T50 TLRC Yamaha 50 hp 4 stroke? What would you recommend we try? Thank you.​Last edited by jan joyce; Today at 09:09 PM. Reason: add more information​ + +Click to expand... + + +No, no problems. I recommend you follow the time and sync procedure in the service manual.","jan joyce said: + + + +Are there problems on this model T50 TLRC Yamaha 50 hp 4 stroke? What would you recommend we try? Thank you.​Last edited by jan joyce; Today at 09:09 PM. Reason: add more information​ + +Click to expand... + + +No, no problems. I recommend you follow the time and sync procedure in the service manual.","oldmanriver said: + + + + Try running sea form in it, check the spark plugs. 20 hours at putter speed will build up carbon. + +Click to expand... + + +roger that. About to run it with some sea foam. I also noticed that the oil was over filled. I guess on the 2019 they changed to viewing window to having a dipstick on the oil cap. If I read oil when cap is strewed in - it’s over filled for sure - and about max mark when the cap is inserted without engaging threads. Drained and refilled oil to proper level." +Cannot synch the carbs on a 2004 yamaha 50 hp outboard. New #4 carb rruns higher than other 3. Thanks,"Thank you so much for your reply. And Yes, we followed the time and sych procedure. We did get all in sync; however our problem is the #4 cylinder is misfiring. We have a new #4 carb in that cylinder. We also have a manometer to get all in sync and we have the repair manual. Have replaced all spark plugs with new and they all fire; have new gas line; no water in gas and put in new gas; compression checked 2x and all even at 150psi; no vacuum leaks; valve adjustments done; fuel pressure checked and running psi is 4. The model no. is T50 TLRC. +The symtom is the misfiring #4 cylinder; however, we need your help to figure out the cause or causes or possible cause. Thank you.The cylinder is not necessarily the problem. Thanks.","Thank you so much for your reply. And Yes, we followed the time and sych procedure. We did get all in sync; however our problem is the #4 cylinder is misfiring. We have a new #4 carb in that cylinder. We also have a manometer to get all in sync and we have the repair manual. Have replaced all spark plugs with new and they all fire; have new gas line; no water in gas and put in new gas; compression checked 2x and all even at 150psi; no vacuum leaks; valve adjustments done; fuel pressure checked and running psi is 4. The model no. is T50 TLRC. +The symtom is the misfiring #4 cylinder; however, we need your help to figure out the cause or causes or possible cause. Thank you.The cylinder is not necessarily the problem. Thanks.","flamecensor said: + + + + The helm also is labeled with '700010', and I loosened the t25 torx bolts, and the 10 mm hex bolts opposite them, but the cable inside still won't move an inch into the plastic excess tube. Steering to the motor's port stop limiter needs that extra inch. +Thanks for your help. + +Click to expand... + + +With the helm, cable attached, out of the boat and on the ground, and with the steering wheel back on the shaft and keyed by the woodruff key, I pulled up on hopeful looking cable lock buttons, put my toes on the wheel, and tried to rotate the helm to port, I couldn't make the cable move the last inch into the plastic excess tube. +I'll email or phone Pretech tomorrow and ask them." +New #4 carbarator for Yahama 2004 50 hp 4 stroke outboard will not idle. Other 3 are working. How can we check what the problem could be and how do we fix it?,After installing new carb did you time and sync all 4 carbs per your service manual?,After installing new carb did you time and sync all 4 carbs per your service manual?,"High Pressure pump is 44 psi then drops down to 33 psi and holds good until it falls on its self.Fuel tank is venting, rechecked vent line and have blown out the vent line.The primer bulb is not getting sucked flat, its not rock hard nor is it super soft. going to pull the VST again." +New #4 carbarator for Yahama 2004 50 hp 4 stroke outboard will not idle. Other 3 are working. How can we check what the problem could be and how do we fix it?,"You need a carb sync tool. You will never get it running right with out it. + +This will help. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4dGC1p_2uM","You need a carb sync tool. You will never get it running right with out it. + +This will help. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4dGC1p_2uM",My Yamaha 90 4 stroke engine is stuck down. Trying to raise it manually by releasing the manual release screw is no help. Any suggestions. Tilt and trim needs replacing. +New #4 carbarator for Yahama 2004 50 hp 4 stroke outboard will not idle. Other 3 are working. How can we check what the problem could be and how do we fix it?,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + After installing new carb did you time and sync all 4 carbs per your service manual? + +Click to expand... + +""Thank you for your reply. I will let you know how it works. Sincerely, Jan","ClassicAQ said: + + + + After installing new carb did you time and sync all 4 carbs per your service manual? + +Click to expand... + +""Thank you for your reply. I will let you know how it works. Sincerely, Jan","I'd be inclined to start by contacting Glastron or one of your local dealers that's been around a while.....usually, all you need is the HIN - on the transom and on your title paperwork.....another alternative would be a broker (reseller) if they are local, too.... + +There may be on-line references that can decode the HIN....but I haven't looked for any in quite a while...." +New #4 carbarator for Yahama 2004 50 hp 4 stroke outboard will not idle. Other 3 are working. How can we check what the problem could be and how do we fix it?,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + You need a carb sync tool. You will never get it running right with out it. + +This will help. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4dGC1p_2uM + +Click to expand... + + + +I wish all outboard intakes were outfitted with vacuum ports to plug in a carb tuner. Standard feature now on all 4 strokes. Not so much with 2 strokes.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + You need a carb sync tool. You will never get it running right with out it. + +This will help. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4dGC1p_2uM + +Click to expand... + + + +I wish all outboard intakes were outfitted with vacuum ports to plug in a carb tuner. Standard feature now on all 4 strokes. Not so much with 2 strokes.","makomark said: + + + + something was binding up.....at least it's resolved!! + +Click to expand... + + +I spoke too soon It seized up again on the water, and needed me pushing with both arms to move the wheel in either direction. + +As I knew that the cable should be good, as it's new, I went ahead and replaced the helm, but the problem is still there! + +Only when the steering cable and the outboard are connected is it stiff. The second that they're disconnected, each element works fine. + +I checked the drag link isn't binding, and it's nice and loose. + +Help!" +New #4 carbarator for Yahama 2004 50 hp 4 stroke outboard will not idle. Other 3 are working. How can we check what the problem could be and how do we fix it?,Thank for the help. We do have a manometer and a new #4 carb. The #4 carb is still missing. What are possible problems? Does the Yamaha 2204 50 hp 4 stroke model no. T50TLRC have issues with the #4 carb? Thank you.,Thank for the help. We do have a manometer and a new #4 carb. The #4 carb is still missing. What are possible problems? Does the Yamaha 2204 50 hp 4 stroke model no. T50TLRC have issues with the #4 carb? Thank you.,"racerone said: + + + + Well,some buzzzzzzzers sound momentarily when the key is turned on !!------------If they stay on , then the buzzer is defective !! + +Click to expand... + + +I just this weekend repaired a J150execd with the same problem. Key on engine off cold, Over heat alarm and light were on. No grounded wires, sensors functioning correctly. The ""system check"" gauge was not functioning correctly. Replaced it and all is fine. Disassembled the removed unit and found it grounded internally with corrosion. ""Salt Air""" +New #4 carbarator for Yahama 2004 50 hp 4 stroke outboard will not idle. Other 3 are working. How can we check what the problem could be and how do we fix it?,"Yes, And the new #4 carb is missing. What might be the causes? Thanks again.","Yes, And the new #4 carb is missing. What might be the causes? Thanks again.",dont know but the fiber glass self layed is going to add a lot of weight and it will set lower in the water...styrofoam is put out by dow chemical and is 98% air...it is a closed cell foam and is used by the navy for flotation in some applications...its the weight of the fiber glass that would concern me...to me the ideal pontoon would be aluminum filled with styrofoam but that is cost prohibitive.. +New #4 carbarator for Yahama 2004 50 hp 4 stroke outboard will not idle. Other 3 are working. How can we check what the problem could be and how do we fix it?,"We used the manometer to synch the carbs. the #4 carb is new and is still missing. What are other areas we need to check? Thank you. +Other 3 carbs are fine. Already adjusted hex bolt, etc.","We used the manometer to synch the carbs. the #4 carb is new and is still missing. What are other areas we need to check? Thank you. +Other 3 carbs are fine. Already adjusted hex bolt, etc.","Ayuh,.... Ask this in the Johnny-rude Outboard forum for better answers,.... + +This isn't an electrical problem,...." +New #4 carbarator for Yahama 2004 50 hp 4 stroke outboard will not idle. Other 3 are working. How can we check what the problem could be and how do we fix it?,"jan joyce said: + + + + We used the manometer to synch the carbs. the #4 carb is new and is still missing. What are other areas we need to check? Thank you. +Other 3 carbs are fine. Already adjusted hex bolt, etc. + +Click to expand... + + +You've got 2 different threads going for the same issue. Your statement ""the #4 carb is new and is still missing"" makes no sense. Please clarify. If the carb is new, how is it missing?","jan joyce said: + + + + We used the manometer to synch the carbs. the #4 carb is new and is still missing. What are other areas we need to check? Thank you. +Other 3 carbs are fine. Already adjusted hex bolt, etc. + +Click to expand... + + +You've got 2 different threads going for the same issue. Your statement ""the #4 carb is new and is still missing"" makes no sense. Please clarify. If the carb is new, how is it missing?","Had a good trip from to Catalina Sunday. A little frustration at the launch ramp. Port motor started right up, that's the one that has the problems. Starboard wouldn't start, not even turn over. After cussing on it, and that didn't fix it, I took truck/boat to back end of launch area. Worked on it for almost 3 hours before I figured out one fo the two paraled batteries connections wasn't connected. My guess is that the mechanic had to take the battery set-up apart to get the new rigging harness and didn't but it back. Between that and me cleaning up all electrical connections, it was good to go. By then the wind/chop picked up so it was a good test. Had to adjuct friction of throttles on the water, which worked out okay as well. Hope the intermittent issue has been finally solved." +New #4 carbarator for Yahama 2004 50 hp 4 stroke outboard will not idle. Other 3 are working. How can we check what the problem could be and how do we fix it?,"I'm sorry about that. I am new to this and did not realize what I did. The motor is 2204 Yamaha 4 stroke 50 hp model no. T50TLRC. The #4 cylinder is misfiring. We have a new #4 carb. We swapped coils 3 x; compression checked 2 x and all even at 150 psi; new pump; new gas lines; new gas; no vacuum leaks; value adjusted; fuel pressure running 4psi; no water in gas. Has there been a common problem of any kind of this particular motor over the years? + +Also, what is the correct psi for a fuel pump? And, New spark plugs and checked. We need your help in finding out what is causing the misfiring. Thank you.","I'm sorry about that. I am new to this and did not realize what I did. The motor is 2204 Yamaha 4 stroke 50 hp model no. T50TLRC. The #4 cylinder is misfiring. We have a new #4 carb. We swapped coils 3 x; compression checked 2 x and all even at 150 psi; new pump; new gas lines; new gas; no vacuum leaks; value adjusted; fuel pressure running 4psi; no water in gas. Has there been a common problem of any kind of this particular motor over the years? + +Also, what is the correct psi for a fuel pump? And, New spark plugs and checked. We need your help in finding out what is causing the misfiring. Thank you.","How will I know, is there a way to unplug, if that is the case?" +"Hey guys, I'm looking for a little help. Two days ago my motor was running great, I filled up with gas yesterday and now my boat will not reach my normal top end speed. Also, once on plane and running for a short distance my RPM's drop down to around 4500 or lower and will not increase even with giving it more throttle. I replaced the fuel filter which had no effect on the problem. I have checked the bulb immediately after I come off of plane, and found that It takes about 5/6 pumps to return to a firm state. I plan on replacing the fuel line next. Does anyone have any further advice or input?","also, after stopping to an idle I can take off again and travel another short distance before it begins again.","also, after stopping to an idle I can take off again and travel another short distance before it begins again.","You can run the deck plate ground to the bonding system (preferred) or the engine block. + +I don't believe you need a ground wire to the tank as there's no way for the electrons to move thru the plastic. You can always check with Moeller and get their recommendations." +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.",Yamaha oil seals are rubber inside and outside.--------------In cold weather they lose their grip on the housing!------------If water is in between seals in freezing weather the seals are displaced. ---------They start to leak !-------------Best to do an inspection.,Yamaha oil seals are rubber inside and outside.--------------In cold weather they lose their grip on the housing!------------If water is in between seals in freezing weather the seals are displaced. ---------They start to leak !-------------Best to do an inspection.,Never got to water....Started this am on muffs.....Runs terrible....need a break from this engine +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","Thanks for the insight racerone. The seal displacement could be from the water freezing around the seals. I live in Charleston, Sc and we did not have that brutal of a winter this year, but we did have about two months of cold weather. Do you think I need to have the lower unit pressure tested, or just go ahead like I'm intending on doing, and replace all the seals myself. Have you worked on a Yamaha 30 hp before? Do I need any special tools?","Thanks for the insight racerone. The seal displacement could be from the water freezing around the seals. I live in Charleston, Sc and we did not have that brutal of a winter this year, but we did have about two months of cold weather. Do you think I need to have the lower unit pressure tested, or just go ahead like I'm intending on doing, and replace all the seals myself. Have you worked on a Yamaha 30 hp before? Do I need any special tools?","So Lucky it wasn't the hydraulics. Ya. It was the steering arm that goes through the motor and man was it froze! Finally got it loose and out. Cleaned everything up. Sanded and polished the sleeve. Greased everything , new o-ring, put it all back together. slides back and forth freely. will add fluid and bleed tonight. Fingers crossed. Dan" +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","In this case pressure testing before and after repairs will tell you if you did it "" right ""------------also let you know where the leak actually was.--------------No real special tools needed, a wrench to turn the big nut can be made up.--------I own a Yamaha 3 cylinder 30 amongst many other motors.","In this case pressure testing before and after repairs will tell you if you did it "" right ""------------also let you know where the leak actually was.--------------No real special tools needed, a wrench to turn the big nut can be made up.--------I own a Yamaha 3 cylinder 30 amongst many other motors.","Remember one thing about 2-strokes, at low RPM they are pretty much just as efficient as 4 strokes. As RPM increases you get more blow- through of the fuel/air charge being introduced. A 2-stroke fires on every stroke... on the downward stroke ports on the cylinder walls are exposed - one is exhaust and the other is the intake where a pressurized fuel/air charge enters the cylinder slightly later than the exhaust port was exposed (but hasn't fully closed yet). The higher the RPM, the more fresh fuel/air mix that blows out with the exhaust just before the exhaust port is fully closed by the cylinder travel. If you want better gas mileage - cut back on the speed and run at just enough RPMs to maintain the boat on level plane. At high rpm's the amount of blow-through can get pretty substantial. I can't remember the percentages but at WOT I thought it could be about 20% of the fuel is going out with the exhaust instead of being combusted." +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.",Thanks racerone.,Thanks racerone., +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","its your drive shaft seal +replace that and the water pump since your in there already","its your drive shaft seal +replace that and the water pump since your in there already","i assume you have the standard voltmeter on your instrument panel...thats the reason for the above question...the reading on that is important...if its a regulated system then it will be regulated to about 14.8 volts...if it is a rectifier only system it will creep higher...if it creeps into the 16v and higher range that could give tach problems and depending on brand and make etc of your fish finder it could give an over voltage alert... + wiring on a boat is fairly simple...the problem on a lot of boats is that its hard to get under the console to really spook the wiring....1.you want your trolling motor to have heavt enough wire going all the way back to the battery to handle it... it draws a lot of current and you cannot ''tap'' off anything to run it....the standard wiring under the console is for hot to go through a contact on the ignition switch to your tach and the voltmeter and gas gauge etc if you have a gas gauge...the ground side of the gauges will be looped together and go to ground...the volt meter is just two wires and will read battery output when the key is turned on..the tach will go to zero if its not already there..the gas gauge will read the level of the tank at that point also...the tach signal is fed with a grey wire going to the output of the voltage regulator and will read when the motor is running and you have voltage output from the regulator.(or rectifier with a rectifier only system)...you fish finder should be wired according to the manufactures specs...this should be on the web or possibly they have a support number..." +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","Hey guys. I replaced the water pump and all the seals on the drive shaft, but I still have gear oil leaking. It is not leaking from the water intake grille anymore, but is now leaking from the small hole beside the water intake grille. You can see a pic of this hole on the right pic that I have above. It is directly to the right, or in front of the water intake grille, depending on how you look at it. I am really confused now, because I cannot imagine any seals being in this area and why this hole is leaking oil. Will replacing the seals on the prop shaft prevent leaking from this hole? It does not make sense to me that it would. Please help me figure this out.","Hey guys. I replaced the water pump and all the seals on the drive shaft, but I still have gear oil leaking. It is not leaking from the water intake grille anymore, but is now leaking from the small hole beside the water intake grille. You can see a pic of this hole on the right pic that I have above. It is directly to the right, or in front of the water intake grille, depending on how you look at it. I am really confused now, because I cannot imagine any seals being in this area and why this hole is leaking oil. Will replacing the seals on the prop shaft prevent leaking from this hole? It does not make sense to me that it would. Please help me figure this out.","I did everything I could to rule out a fuel tank vent blockage. I ran the boat today and still had the issue despite the gas cap being unscrewed. I did notice that if I squeeze the primer bulb while experiencing the issue, it resolves and returns to WOT. Does this mean the issue can be narrowed down to somewhere between the bulb and the engine (rather than between the fuel tank and bulb)? Should I be thinking fuel pump maybe? + +Also to note: I made sure to note WOT RPM at ideal trim (the aforementioned 4500 was without any trim). My WOT was closer to 5300 with speeds in the upper 30s." +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.",If you are running on a hose in the driveway this is very normal. It is the unburnt oil from the exhaust.--------------The wee hole is a casting cavity drain.,If you are running on a hose in the driveway this is very normal. It is the unburnt oil from the exhaust.--------------The wee hole is a casting cavity drain.,You may have to upgrade to a better steering system due to the higher HP engine. +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","Racerone, I noticed when I was refilling the gear oil that gear oil was coming out of the wee hole, which is why I am concerned. It does not seem like gear oil should be coming out of the same hole as the water as fast as the gear oil was spewing out of the wee hole. I imagine this is where I am getting some of the water and gear oil mixing, making the gear oil milky white when I drain the oil. What are your thoughts? Do I need to be concerned? I really don't want to remove the lower unit again, as I have done about 5-6 times in the past week or so. Thanks.","Racerone, I noticed when I was refilling the gear oil that gear oil was coming out of the wee hole, which is why I am concerned. It does not seem like gear oil should be coming out of the same hole as the water as fast as the gear oil was spewing out of the wee hole. I imagine this is where I am getting some of the water and gear oil mixing, making the gear oil milky white when I drain the oil. What are your thoughts? Do I need to be concerned? I really don't want to remove the lower unit again, as I have done about 5-6 times in the past week or so. Thanks.","Yes, I believe it is, more or less. We've run the boat for 14 years and this is a new development. Also, I can get the same result by slowly lifting the motor when in neutral. +Is there any part or gasket that could be the culprit that would cause the pump to stop drawing water when the water level is below the pump?" +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.",Drain the oil for later filling and run / rush out to the boat shop to pressure test the lower unit !!!,Drain the oil for later filling and run / rush out to the boat shop to pressure test the lower unit !!!,Yaa it is old. So what's the point? +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","hi, I suggest to open the power unit from the foundation and check oil pump. Because you mentioned that you change the lower unit and the problem is still +remain. i saw the picture of your lower unit. thank you.","hi, I suggest to open the power unit from the foundation and check oil pump. Because you mentioned that you change the lower unit and the problem is still +remain. i saw the picture of your lower unit. thank you.","Thank you again Boscoe for your very elaborate reply. + +Let me also add to where I had said “That didn't work; nor did moving the nuts around to either side of where they had been.” Moving the nuts UP did nothing to get into reverse but did engage forward that much sooner in the movement at the helm lever; so I concluded that UP was the wrong direction. So then I moved the nuts DOWN as far as possible without bottoming them out; thereby restoring the expected movement into forward, but still no success getting into reverse. That is when I resorted to lengthening the connection of the shifting cable to the shift lever (outside the cowling) as described in my initial thread. I think the situation is created by an aging shifting cable. I think." +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.",its the shift shaft seal,its the shift shaft seal,"Oh didn't know, I was kind of wondering when he said something about spreading brkt. of tilt. Live and learn I guess. Thanks racerone." +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","I don`t think so oil leaking from shift shaft seal, because there is no connection from shift shaft with oil. Is just a shaft which moves the gears +forward and reverse inside the gear box.","I don`t think so oil leaking from shift shaft seal, because there is no connection from shift shaft with oil. Is just a shaft which moves the gears +forward and reverse inside the gear box.",Without pics of the boat its hard to give advice...but here is what i think..if possible i would use 2x2's for the runners if the bottom is a straight run and you dont have to cut for a curve...have you priced marine plywood?..i think thats overkill if you are going to carpet over it..i would consider 1/2 inch treated plywood.....whatever you use make sure you prime and paint(including the under side) after you do the cuts if any...if you are going to fish out of the boat do not get loop carpet because of fishhooks getting caught in it..silicone caulk will probably work ok to tack the runners down..you might consider liquid nails ln715.. [h=1][/h] +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","I live in Charleston, Sc and we did not have that brutal of a winter this year, but we did have about two months of cold weather. Do you think I need to have the lower unit pressure tested, or just go ahead like I'm intending on doing, and replace all the seals myself. + + + + + + +RS GoldRunescape GoldBuy Maplestory Mesos","I live in Charleston, Sc and we did not have that brutal of a winter this year, but we did have about two months of cold weather. Do you think I need to have the lower unit pressure tested, or just go ahead like I'm intending on doing, and replace all the seals myself. + + + + + + +RS GoldRunescape GoldBuy Maplestory Mesos","Based on your description, I would suspect that there is a short in the wiring harness between the engine and the console. If that's the original harness, at 30 years old it's bound to have issues. Try to find a replacement and test it extensively before installing by making sure that a voltage appied to any one wire does not bleed over to any of the other wires in the harness. + +Alternatively, you can make your own harness using different colored wires that you can buy from West Marine or Jamestown Distributors. Try to match the colors used in the original harness. If that is not possible, then write down the color of the wire for used for each function, trying to stick to the Use 14 gauge marine (tinned) wiring. + +Here is the link to the typical color codes you will want to use: http://www.marinemechanic.com/site/page101.html + +Don't try to power any of your instruments, except gauges, off of the harness or key switch. Instead, run separate positive and negative wires from your battery switch and battery ground to distribution panels under the console. Then run all of your instruments off of those panels - VHF, nav lights, GPS, Horn, internal lights, wipers, etc. etc. Depending on your total load, use either 12, 10, or even 8 AWG if you happen to use a windless. The positive distribution panel should be completely fused. + +If you send an e-mail to me at [email protected], I'll send back a typical wiring diagram for a small boat. It's for an outboard set up, but not much different than for an I/O. + +One other thought. One way to burn up an alternator is having a bad ground off the battery to the engine block. Are you absolutely sure that your battery ground wire is in top notch condition and is well grounded to the block? If you are operating in saltwater, those ground wires can deteriorate internally - look fine on the outside, but badly corroded inside and will not carry the amps needed." +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","hi, my suggestion is inspect oil viscosity, because engine oil and gear oil has different viscosity, if the leaked oil less thicker then gear oil then it should be +engine oil, if not then you must do pressure test and open gear box to inspect seals.","hi, my suggestion is inspect oil viscosity, because engine oil and gear oil has different viscosity, if the leaked oil less thicker then gear oil then it should be +engine oil, if not then you must do pressure test and open gear box to inspect seals.","Ayuh,..... I use the threaded flange type hull drains, rather than the rubber plugs,...." +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","fine do not listen to me + +so when you get it pressure tested and they say its the shift shaft seal, then you can buy me lunch + +i work on motors daily for 3 yacht clubs, and you do not think i know what im taking about + +their is only 5 seals on lower units + +DRIVE +PROP +BEARING CARRIER +DRAIN/VENT +and a SHIFT SHAFT SEAL","fine do not listen to me + +so when you get it pressure tested and they say its the shift shaft seal, then you can buy me lunch + +i work on motors daily for 3 yacht clubs, and you do not think i know what im taking about + +their is only 5 seals on lower units + +DRIVE +PROP +BEARING CARRIER +DRAIN/VENT +and a SHIFT SHAFT SEAL",Guyjg....it dont really matter if you have a regulated supply...the current will decrease with resistance increase in the load....lets take a corroded negative battery terminal on a boat for example....if you measure from the negative terminal of the battery to the positive terminal from the terminal with no load lets say you read 12.7v...if you move the negative lead from the battery to the block with no load you will still read 12.7...ok...try to turn the motor over and take the same readings and you will see a difference in voltage between the motor ground and the negative post on the battery....no amount of regulation will remove that drop...the current from the battery will decrease compared to a good cable....its like pushing water through a hose with some restriction in it..water flow will drop...the same would apply to the positive side of the battery having a problem except the reading would differ between the starter positive post and the battery positive post... the heat you feel on an corroded cable or connection is because the bad spot has become a resistor..all resistors dissipate heat...a small low wattage resistor would burn up in this situation....actually with a connection you are drawing less current from the battery in most cases..i say most cases because you can blow a fuse if the connectoin is intermittent and you draw an arc..but thats a whole new discussion and unimportant on 99.9 % of our problems...Aliboy is basically correct in his statement that a regular meter draws a very small amount of current when measuring voltage...the better the meter the less current but thats why a regular meter is inaccurate(and will damage) in most electronic circuits and not used....they build expensive meters and oscilloscopes for that purpose...but they would still read the drop in voltage under load...(i know you know all this Guyjg but i figure if i put it up then some who dont understand it will read it) +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","hey racerone, don`t be angry, many places has many name. you called it shift shaft seal but we called it gear selector. I really did not understand. sorry. +my suggestion is remove the gear box from the unit and fill oil on the stand. at the same time check the leakage by pressure test. that would be helpful.","hey racerone, don`t be angry, many places has many name. you called it shift shaft seal but we called it gear selector. I really did not understand. sorry. +my suggestion is remove the gear box from the unit and fill oil on the stand. at the same time check the leakage by pressure test. that would be helpful.","Ducman491 said: + + + + The issue is there isn't one. I found a Skeeter Bass boat with no motor that is very cheap. I'm starting to ask the seller questions and but in the ad he said there is no title. How difficult is it to get a title for a boat? + +Like I said I'm emailing with the seller and asking questions so I don't know if there are mountains of other problems. It needs paint and I'm assuming some electrical which I can do but I'm waiting to hear about the hull and transom. I'm sure I'll be asking more questions from you guys as I get more answers from the seller as I have never done this with a boat. Motorcycles yes, but not a boat. + +Thanks in advance +jason + +Click to expand... + + +I have done this numerous times. Usually, if you have the registered owners last registered address and complete owners name you send a certified letter to them demanding signed title or power of attorneyto transfer title.. The post office will not forward the letter and after two attempts to delver, will send the letter back to you. Now, keep your receipt. if after thirty days, you have not received a response and they accepted the letter. you use your receipt from certified letter and a copy of the letter as a signature. if they do not accept, you receive the letter back and use the sealed certified letter as a signature for title.The next option is going to your local court house and filing a petition for declaratory judgment. Here its about 200 bucks,but when its all said and done you get about 150 bucks back. both take about 5 to 6 weeks. The declaratory judgement is actually easy and the clerk of circuit court should have pre writen order for you to fill out. hope this helps." +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","I've been without the internet for a while, so I apologize for not getting back to you guys. I almost totally disassembled the entire lower unit and the problem was found in............ding ding ding. the shift seal. Thanks for all your help.","I've been without the internet for a while, so I apologize for not getting back to you guys. I almost totally disassembled the entire lower unit and the problem was found in............ding ding ding. the shift seal. Thanks for all your help.","OK, thanks again bondo. Will start to do some looking for part #s. Do you know if all the pumps are the same? + Glen" +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","You can thank me later, lol","You can thank me later, lol",Thanks. +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","justintime said: + + + + its the shift shaft seal + +Click to expand... + +do I need to remove the out drive to replace the seal?","justintime said: + + + + its the shift shaft seal + +Click to expand... + +do I need to remove the out drive to replace the seal?","I figured that's what it was and yes the blue wire has a diode as well. If I knew what type/kind of diode I could find and soldier a new one in. The T&T works. Just not quite right. Leaks down overnight too. Couldn't find a leak. Probably low on fluid. I really appreciate the help. Sometimes its hard to explain a problem for others to understand. Thanks again. Will + +I see from the diagram the diode direction is from ground to the colored wires. Thanks again" +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.",yes sir,yes sir,"If this outboard has an electric start, it most likely has a charging system as well. +I believe that the starter motor and charging system would need to have the polarity reversed. + +Depending on type, it may or may not affect the ignition. + + +." +"Hey guys, I'm new here, but from what I can tell you are a very helpful when people ask questions. I recently noticed oil leaking from my water intake grille area and don't know what I need to do to fix the problem. I recently purchased a water pump kit, because I know it is long overdue for replacing, and I also purchased a new lower unit gear seal kit. Did I buy the right parts? How difficult do you think it will be doing these replacements? I have a 97 Yamaha 30hp. Last year I redid my carbs, if that lets you know anything about my ability to turn a wrench. I just have not messed with this area of my motor before. Thanks, in advance, to those of you who provide valuable insight.","Leor said: + + + + do I need to remove the out drive to replace the seal? + +Click to expand... + +Hi Guy's👋 Im new to the site and sorry if I post things in the wrong place at times.I have a question for anyone that can really help me pls.I have a new out of the box lower unit for a 150 yahama.I filled it with oil and it's coming out of the water pick ups and a very small hole on one side of unit.Any help pls on this and what it can be or what to do.Thank You all and sorry for the long post as I'm new to this.Thanks Again","Leor said: + + + + do I need to remove the out drive to replace the seal? + +Click to expand... + +Hi Guy's👋 Im new to the site and sorry if I post things in the wrong place at times.I have a question for anyone that can really help me pls.I have a new out of the box lower unit for a 150 yahama.I filled it with oil and it's coming out of the water pick ups and a very small hole on one side of unit.Any help pls on this and what it can be or what to do.Thank You all and sorry for the long post as I'm new to this.Thanks Again","Ayuh,..... Even if ya bolt it together, I'd go with aluminum,...." +"Looking at a 2000 Yamaha Vmax V150TLRY 150hp. Seller is asking $3,500. Second owner, could not say how many hours, claims that it runs great, been in storage 18 months. Seller said it was purchased used from Bass Pro Shops. + +Is there a way to pull hours off this motor? What should I should be looking at besides compression test? Is 3,500 a fair price? + +Any other info you could provide is appreciated. Thanks! + +Stan","The asking price sounds fair for that engine if 100%. But no matter the price, if you're not able to test an 18 year old motor under load I'd walk away from the sale. Otherwise it's a crap shoot on what you're purchasing. Perform all the diagnostic tests you want on an outboard when not under load. The end-all be-all test is how it performs pushing a load.","The asking price sounds fair for that engine if 100%. But no matter the price, if you're not able to test an 18 year old motor under load I'd walk away from the sale. Otherwise it's a crap shoot on what you're purchasing. Perform all the diagnostic tests you want on an outboard when not under load. The end-all be-all test is how it performs pushing a load.",Has the waterpump ever been changed? Is the telltale stream warmer than usual? Can you hold your finger on either cylinder head for a 7 second count without scorching. A 20 $ infrared temp. gun would a wise investment for your toolbox +Hi there new here I just got a new boat and the tachometer and speedometer isn't working when I look inside the control area there is a purple wire hook up and then a black wire hooked up and a gray wire just sitting there not hooked up and a yellow and green one not hooked up I have followed the gray wire and it goes right to the tach should that be hooked up to the yellow or green wire and why won't the speedometer work either someone please let me know I can't drive 5 hours to take it back to the dealer been on big problem thank you,"Do you have the round yamaha multifunction gauges or the square command link gauges? I've attached a picture of the round tach and speed gauge wiring diagram. + +Tach Gauge- +Coming out of the back of the tachometer gauge is 2 sets of harnessed wires, 4 wires in each harness. These 2 harnesses plug in to the engine harness, which stretches from engine to console. Then there are 4 free wires...yellow, blue, black, and green. These 4 wires with bullet connectors plug in to the corresponding colored bullet connectors on the tach harness (pictured, 6Y5-83553-MO). Yellow is power, blue is light, black is ground, and green is signal. There is no grey wire associated with the tach. There is a grey wire from the speed gauge. See below. + +Speed/Fuel Management Gauge- +Coming out of the back of the speed/fuel gauge are 6 free wires....2 black, grey, red, yellow, and blue. The grey wire and 1 of the 2 black wires connect to the fuel tank ground wire and sender wire. The remaining 4 wires plug in to the same tach harness as mentioned above. The red wire is battery. + +The other side of the tach harnesses bullet connectors plug in to the corresponding colored bullet connectors to the control box.","Do you have the round yamaha multifunction gauges or the square command link gauges? I've attached a picture of the round tach and speed gauge wiring diagram. + +Tach Gauge- +Coming out of the back of the tachometer gauge is 2 sets of harnessed wires, 4 wires in each harness. These 2 harnesses plug in to the engine harness, which stretches from engine to console. Then there are 4 free wires...yellow, blue, black, and green. These 4 wires with bullet connectors plug in to the corresponding colored bullet connectors on the tach harness (pictured, 6Y5-83553-MO). Yellow is power, blue is light, black is ground, and green is signal. There is no grey wire associated with the tach. There is a grey wire from the speed gauge. See below. + +Speed/Fuel Management Gauge- +Coming out of the back of the speed/fuel gauge are 6 free wires....2 black, grey, red, yellow, and blue. The grey wire and 1 of the 2 black wires connect to the fuel tank ground wire and sender wire. The remaining 4 wires plug in to the same tach harness as mentioned above. The red wire is battery. + +The other side of the tach harnesses bullet connectors plug in to the corresponding colored bullet connectors to the control box.","I checked vent cap. I may have tightened it, but defintely didn't close it any. In fact you can't close it, as it will only let you tighten so far before it stops, so that the screened vent remains open. In trying to think of other possibly related symptoms .... I've noticed the primer bulb never hardens after pumping, but am not sure what that means if anything. And as stated above, I noticed more gas than normal coming from the vent when re-fueling right before this trip. It occured even though I made effort to pump more slowly. This did not occur at previous fill ups, except one where I filled tank all the way up to its limit." +Hi there new here I just got a new boat and the tachometer and speedometer isn't working when I look inside the control area there is a purple wire hook up and then a black wire hooked up and a gray wire just sitting there not hooked up and a yellow and green one not hooked up I have followed the gray wire and it goes right to the tach should that be hooked up to the yellow or green wire and why won't the speedometer work either someone please let me know I can't drive 5 hours to take it back to the dealer been on big problem thank you,"thanks for the info I guess not sure why this tach and speedometer isn't working I will put a picture on here and show you the wires I am talking about II + +now I cant load a picture of it I must be doing something wrong","thanks for the info I guess not sure why this tach and speedometer isn't working I will put a picture on here and show you the wires I am talking about II + +now I cant load a picture of it I must be doing something wrong","""Hi, + +For what its worth i h + +""Hi, + +For what its worth i hate bottom paint. I work on boats for a living and despise it. ( and working on boats that use it ) + +Bottom paint on a fiberglass boat is the quickest way to de-value an otherwise good boat. If it's wood its necessary, otherwise- in my opinion it's a bad idea. + +As a marine mechanic, none of my boats ever get bottom paint,they get acid baths,scrubbing and elbow grease, and a buff when needed. + +I use On-Off Hull and Bottom Cleaner, it works awesome. + + + +http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2339&familyN ame=On-Off+Hull+and+Bottom+Cleaner + +Course, you know what they say,opinions are like a-holes """ +"2003 90F HP Yamaha has a 20 amp and a 30 amp fuse. +The 30 amp blew - found and fixed carroded connector on red wire from battery to turnoff switch. +Next trip 20 amp fuse blew. Any ideas on what it protects and where to start troubleshoot appreciated. +Thanks, +Additional Info: When 20 amp blew, motor and tilt stopped. no ignition when start key turned. +Replaced 20 amp fuse and motor started but no electronic will turn on.","See my reply to your first thread. Makes sense, the fuses protect the starter and PTT. You must have a bad ground somewhere causing the overload. + +Next post you make, keep everything in one thread, including updates.","See my reply to your first thread. Makes sense, the fuses protect the starter and PTT. You must have a bad ground somewhere causing the overload. + +Next post you make, keep everything in one thread, including updates.","Mount them, Check the fluids, fuel them and run them No worries. The only thing you should do is change the water pump impellers. They are probably set." +"2003 90F HP Yamaha has a 20 amp and a 30 amp fuse. +The 30 amp blew - found and fixed carroded connector on red wire from battery to turnoff switch. +Next trip 20 amp fuse blew. Any ideas on what it protects and where to start troubleshoot appreciated. +Thanks,","I couldn't find wiring schematic for 2003 F90. Below is the schematic for the 2004 F90. Should be the same. Looks like the 2 fuses protect the PTT motor and relay and starter motor and relay. If you don't have a service manual, now is a good time to get one. There are procedures detailed for meter testing each system.","I couldn't find wiring schematic for 2003 F90. Below is the schematic for the 2004 F90. Should be the same. Looks like the 2 fuses protect the PTT motor and relay and starter motor and relay. If you don't have a service manual, now is a good time to get one. There are procedures detailed for meter testing each system.","11.9V sounds low to me. The switch may be fine tested in isolation, but the wires to the relay may have a bad connection somewhere. Any bad connection will cause a voltage drop. High resistance in the wire can also mean that you are getting the full voltage but only a very low current draw so don't rely on voltage measurements alone. Make sure all the connectors are clean and free of corrosion and test the resistance of the wires using a multimeter. You should see very low readings in every part of the wiring. + +Stuart" +Can anyone help. I have water leaking between the lower cowling and the apron at the upper casing of my 225 Yamaha outboard.,"Reply back with your engines model/year. Where exactly are you seeing the water leak? Junction of apron and upper casing? Is there water leaking inside the bottom cowling, or is the water leak only seen exterior? Pictures help too.","Reply back with your engines model/year. Where exactly are you seeing the water leak? Junction of apron and upper casing? Is there water leaking inside the bottom cowling, or is the water leak only seen exterior? Pictures help too.",I know this post is a little old but can you see where the smoke is coming from? If not try cleaning the outside of the engine then run it a while and see if there is any sign of oil leakage. +I need to remove and disable the oil injection system on my 2001 Yamaha 150 2 stroke. Is that possible? Do no have a fuel injected motor. Where can I find instructions on what is required?,"I'm not following you as to why you want to disable the oil injection system. But I recon to do so just drain the oil and disconnect the oil pumps link rod, which attaches to the carb lever.","I'm not following you as to why you want to disable the oil injection system. But I recon to do so just drain the oil and disconnect the oil pumps link rod, which attaches to the carb lever.",thanks racerone went p/u got them out thanks now having problem with getting correct tool to take apart connecting rod on crank star socket wont work looks like 12 points auto store said they dont carry 12 point is it a 12 point and what is it called thanks +I need to remove and disable the oil injection system on my 2001 Yamaha 150 2 stroke. Is that possible? Do no have a fuel injected motor. Where can I find instructions on what is required?,Why do you want to disable the oil injection. Yamaha has the best oil injection in the business even guys who rebuild those motors don't disable the injection.,Why do you want to disable the oil injection. Yamaha has the best oil injection in the business even guys who rebuild those motors don't disable the injection., +I need to remove and disable the oil injection system on my 2001 Yamaha 150 2 stroke. Is that possible? Do no have a fuel injected motor. Where can I find instructions on what is required?,"flyingscott said: + + + + Why do you want to disable the oil injection. Yamaha has the best oil injection in the business even guys who rebuild those motors don't disable the injection. + +Click to expand... + + +I have replaced the external oil pump, the water pump and both thermostats. I have checked the motor oil pu mp output and is pumping, but the motor will only run a short time - for goes back in safe mode (2000 RPM with horn) +I don't know what to do. +Thanks for your reply.","flyingscott said: + + + + Why do you want to disable the oil injection. Yamaha has the best oil injection in the business even guys who rebuild those motors don't disable the injection. + +Click to expand... + + +I have replaced the external oil pump, the water pump and both thermostats. I have checked the motor oil pu mp output and is pumping, but the motor will only run a short time - for goes back in safe mode (2000 RPM with horn) +I don't know what to do. +Thanks for your reply.","Try Tim's Outboard in Hackensack MN....218 682 2331.....Theresa Mike or Dan..... Family founded, owned, operated for over 50 years." +I need to remove and disable the oil injection system on my 2001 Yamaha 150 2 stroke. Is that possible? Do no have a fuel injected motor. Where can I find instructions on what is required?,"Pat W said: + + + + I have replaced the external oil pump, the water pump and both thermostats. I have checked the motor oil pu mp output and is pumping, but the motor will only run a short time - for goes back in safe mode (2000 RPM with horn) +I don't know what to do. +Thanks for your reply. + +Click to expand... + + +I can appreciate your frustration. But respectfully, you don't go pulling out essential parts because you can't figure out the problem. So if you want some help with troubleshooting you'll have to start from the beginning when the problem occurred and what you've done in attempts to fix. + +The 2 alarm systems tied into your tachometer is the low oil alarm and high temp alarm. Each has a symbol on the tach and a line blinks over the symbol that corresponds to the system that activated the alarm. In response to this alarm the engine reduces rpms to 2000 (limp mode). + +So my first question would be which alarm are you getting, low oil or high temp?","Pat W said: + + + + I have replaced the external oil pump, the water pump and both thermostats. I have checked the motor oil pu mp output and is pumping, but the motor will only run a short time - for goes back in safe mode (2000 RPM with horn) +I don't know what to do. +Thanks for your reply. + +Click to expand... + + +I can appreciate your frustration. But respectfully, you don't go pulling out essential parts because you can't figure out the problem. So if you want some help with troubleshooting you'll have to start from the beginning when the problem occurred and what you've done in attempts to fix. + +The 2 alarm systems tied into your tachometer is the low oil alarm and high temp alarm. Each has a symbol on the tach and a line blinks over the symbol that corresponds to the system that activated the alarm. In response to this alarm the engine reduces rpms to 2000 (limp mode). + +So my first question would be which alarm are you getting, low oil or high temp?",It may be fuel or it may be spark. Eliminate a spark problem first. Make sure all plugs are firing when cranking. You can use a timing light to do that. +I need to remove and disable the oil injection system on my 2001 Yamaha 150 2 stroke. Is that possible? Do no have a fuel injected motor. Where can I find instructions on what is required?,"Just yesterday my oil injection quit working on my '09 Vmax and no alarm. Motor is probably done. So much for best in the biz. Best to get rid of it. Mix it yourself. + + + + + +ClassicAQ said: + + + + I can appreciate your frustration. But respectfully, you don't go pulling out essential parts because you can't figure out the problem. So if you want some help with troubleshooting you'll have to start from the beginning when the problem occurred and what you've done in attempts to fix. + +The 2 alarm systems tied into your tachometer is the low oil alarm and high temp alarm. Each has a symbol on the tach and a line blinks over the symbol that corresponds to the system that activated the alarm. In response to this alarm the engine reduces rpms to 2000 (limp mode). + +So my first question would be which alarm are you getting, low oil or high temp? + +Click to expand...","Just yesterday my oil injection quit working on my '09 Vmax and no alarm. Motor is probably done. So much for best in the biz. Best to get rid of it. Mix it yourself. + + + + + +ClassicAQ said: + + + + I can appreciate your frustration. But respectfully, you don't go pulling out essential parts because you can't figure out the problem. So if you want some help with troubleshooting you'll have to start from the beginning when the problem occurred and what you've done in attempts to fix. + +The 2 alarm systems tied into your tachometer is the low oil alarm and high temp alarm. Each has a symbol on the tach and a line blinks over the symbol that corresponds to the system that activated the alarm. In response to this alarm the engine reduces rpms to 2000 (limp mode). + +So my first question would be which alarm are you getting, low oil or high temp? + +Click to expand...",Yeah first thing I did. I opened up fuel cap. Actually put 24 gallons back in hopefully that would do it but after ten minutes went back to same .... Bled vs tank and a small amount of fuel came out I was thinking maybe float suck ?? Tapped a few times than primer bulb would send thru but not as strong as I would think. All fuel that came out was nice and clean. Ran it but same as before. Primer bulb ( new Yamaha ) not getting fully hard gonna change on board filter again and than clean/check fuel pick up as suggested +I need to remove and disable the oil injection system on my 2001 Yamaha 150 2 stroke. Is that possible? Do no have a fuel injected motor. Where can I find instructions on what is required?,"rebelroy11 said: + + + + Just yesterday my oil injection quit working on my '09 Vmax and no alarm. Motor is probably done. So much for best in the biz. Best to get rid of it. Mix it yourself. + +Click to expand... + + +Since you've commented on a thread pertaining to the Yamaha Oil Injection system, I assume your engine utilizes the same system. With that said, the oil injection alarm system will only alert the operator if insufficient oil is sensed in the reserve and/or main oil tank. The alarm does not sense when the oil pump stops functioning. The metered pump is driven by the crankshaft. So as long as the crankshaft is turning the oil pump will deliver oil. It is unlikely and uncommon the pump itself has failed. Though its components can fail. If the oil injection pump stopped delivering oil to the engine for a significant amount of engine hours, surely the level of oil located in the reserve tank would be noticed as to not have dropped in that given number of engine hours. However, if you're not accustomed to eyeballing the reserve tank every now and then, I could understand not noticing your engine not burning oil.","rebelroy11 said: + + + + Just yesterday my oil injection quit working on my '09 Vmax and no alarm. Motor is probably done. So much for best in the biz. Best to get rid of it. Mix it yourself. + +Click to expand... + + +Since you've commented on a thread pertaining to the Yamaha Oil Injection system, I assume your engine utilizes the same system. With that said, the oil injection alarm system will only alert the operator if insufficient oil is sensed in the reserve and/or main oil tank. The alarm does not sense when the oil pump stops functioning. The metered pump is driven by the crankshaft. So as long as the crankshaft is turning the oil pump will deliver oil. It is unlikely and uncommon the pump itself has failed. Though its components can fail. If the oil injection pump stopped delivering oil to the engine for a significant amount of engine hours, surely the level of oil located in the reserve tank would be noticed as to not have dropped in that given number of engine hours. However, if you're not accustomed to eyeballing the reserve tank every now and then, I could understand not noticing your engine not burning oil.",Your location in southern Ontario ? +"Hi all, +im a newbie to the forum, I have a 4 stroke f250 2012 model yammy, which for some reason in the middle of the night, sounded like it went up then down and stayed on the down stroke until I isolated the batteries, ( yes should have done that after each trip). Won't happen again. +when the sun came up, I turned on the power and the trim doesn't work, also there is power going to the fuel pump without the ignition being on, +I replaced the trim rocker switch, trim solenoid which by the way gets extremely hot when the powers on, replaced the ignition switch and still no change, +would appreciate any thoughts as running out of ideas, unless maybe the trim motor? + +cheers guys +Thank you in advance","Only time I have seen this happen is when the batteries were hooked up backwards and damage to the trim harness resulted. I would be inspecting the trim harness. + +The trim motor is not the issue.","Only time I have seen this happen is when the batteries were hooked up backwards and damage to the trim harness resulted. I would be inspecting the trim harness. + +The trim motor is not the issue.","Just an update, was getting on my nerves so bought a new carb, now runs just fine so there's something amiss in there that I'll have to get to the bottom of, runs fine now, a little smokey but I can live with that....." +"1996 Yamaha T50 4 stroke has been linked & sync'd, new factory spark plugs. The carbs are not giving a problem, I have an intermittent miss & when going back to idle dies something, does restart right away. I realize it could be a coil pack. But I want know what controls the coil packs & tells them to fire on time. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance",The C.D.I unit.,The C.D.I unit.,you can swap it out..but these will not boil a battery if you leave it on...i had two that i left on 24/7 year round on a large boat i had...and they last forever..the 20-30 buck ones that you see everywhere will not.... +"1996 Yamaha T50 4 stroke has been linked & sync'd, new factory spark plugs. The carbs are not giving a problem, I have an intermittent miss & when going back to idle dies something, does restart right away. I realize it could be a coil pack. But I want know what controls the coil packs & tells them to fire on time. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance",Thanks for the help,Thanks for the help,"Patrick, intrinsically there is no real issue with using ALL/BOTH while underway. +However, I'm one who does not believe in using this method. I want my charging system regulator to sense each bank individually, and then to predicate the charge rate accordingly. +Some will argue this point. + + +Also, you'd be surprised at how few Amp Hours are actually consumed during engine cranking. While the amp load may be substantial, the duration is rather short. +I've run the numbers on this many times, and always come up with very few AH required for cranking. +Amp Hours IN/OUT are our concern... not voltage alone. + +Normally during engine warm up, the charging system has more than enough charge time to bring the cranking battery back up to a safe SOC. + + + + +As for a cranking battery on #1, and a deep cycle on #2, yes.... but this will depend on your usage. +If you are trolling most of the time, your engine charging system is functional. +If you are anchoring and switching from Batt #1 to Batt #2, then yes..... a deep cycle bank will serve you much better for your DS, FF, Radio or ____ since these items typically consume lower amperages, but for longer durations. + +Now your cranking battery has been held in ""reserve"" during this time. + + +BTW, take each battery bank Negative independently to the main Negative connection, of which is likely at the outboard engine. This creates redundancy. + + +As Mark suggested, if you install one of the Blue Sea ACR units between battery banks, your ALL/BOTH charging issues go away. The ACR will do all of this for you automatically." +"1996 Yamaha T50 4 stroke has been linked & sync'd, new factory spark plugs. The carbs are not giving a problem, I have an intermittent miss & when going back to idle dies something, does restart right away. I realize it could be a coil pack. But I want know what controls the coil packs & tells them to fire on time. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance","john allen said: + + + + Thanks for the help + +Click to expand... + + +Ran the factory manual test for the CDI box. It completely failed the test three times. So again, Thank you John","john allen said: + + + + Thanks for the help + +Click to expand... + + +Ran the factory manual test for the CDI box. It completely failed the test three times. So again, Thank you John","Brian, +Do you think anyone interested in buying a used D3L? Possibly for the parts; everything in working order except the blower motor. Not sure it's worth the trouble to post on eBay. + +Myles" +"1996 Yamaha T50 4 stroke has been linked & sync'd, new factory spark plugs. The carbs are not giving a problem, I have an intermittent miss & when going back to idle dies something, does restart right away. I realize it could be a coil pack. But I want know what controls the coil packs & tells them to fire on time. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance","Your welcome. Sorry to hear it's the CDI, they are not cheap. However, used ones in good shape are sold on websites like eBay, if you rather not buy new. Good luck.","Your welcome. Sorry to hear it's the CDI, they are not cheap. However, used ones in good shape are sold on websites like eBay, if you rather not buy new. Good luck.",Fresh water unit from Canada-----Try----kings propeller repair.---Port Severn +"My boat has twin 2006 Yamaha 250 4 stroke outboards. F250TUR, Serial number 6P3 U 1005956 J and LF250TUR serial number 6P2 U 1012367 J. Both have around 400 hours on them. + +I have a very intermittent problem that only happens after the motors have been running for a while. If I shut them down, and re-start them right away, they jump to life and start immediately. Once in a while ( sometimes a very long while later or not all on some trips), if I drift around a while with the engines off, I get the following behavior. Hitting start, the motor struggles to turn over, (acting a little like the battery is low). Back off the key and immediately hit start again, the motor jumps to life. One motor has done this on and off for two seasons. Now the other has demonstrated the same behavior. It’s like there is a vapor lock or compression thing that is broken by just touching the starter. I have brand new 27 675CCA batteries on each. The motors run from separate fuel tanks. Any ideas?","Are you saying the starter motor is struggling or the engine itself? + +check all connections between battery and starter. This includes the battery switch, if you have one. Check for good spark on all plugs. Meter test for a drop in voltz.","Are you saying the starter motor is struggling or the engine itself? + +check all connections between battery and starter. This includes the battery switch, if you have one. Check for good spark on all plugs. Meter test for a drop in voltz.",I tried to upload but it would not happen. I'll try again. +"My boat has twin 2006 Yamaha 250 4 stroke outboards. F250TUR, Serial number 6P3 U 1005956 J and LF250TUR serial number 6P2 U 1012367 J. Both have around 400 hours on them. + +I have a very intermittent problem that only happens after the motors have been running for a while. If I shut them down, and re-start them right away, they jump to life and start immediately. Once in a while ( sometimes a very long while later or not all on some trips), if I drift around a while with the engines off, I get the following behavior. Hitting start, the motor struggles to turn over, (acting a little like the battery is low). Back off the key and immediately hit start again, the motor jumps to life. One motor has done this on and off for two seasons. Now the other has demonstrated the same behavior. It’s like there is a vapor lock or compression thing that is broken by just touching the starter. I have brand new 27 675CCA batteries on each. The motors run from separate fuel tanks. Any ideas?","Thanks for the response. It's very hard to predict when the problem will occur, but I will definitely keep your suggestions in mind. Thanks,","Thanks for the response. It's very hard to predict when the problem will occur, but I will definitely keep your suggestions in mind. Thanks,","as a rule, no corrosion....but you should make a note in your maintenance log and try to collect them when the bilge get clean. + +the biggest concern I see is they could find their way to the bilge pump float switch and cause some possible interference if it's not shielded..." +"My boat has twin 2006 Yamaha 250 4 stroke outboards. F250TUR, Serial number 6P3 U 1005956 J and LF250TUR serial number 6P2 U 1012367 J. Both have around 400 hours on them. + +I have a very intermittent problem that only happens after the motors have been running for a while. If I shut them down, and re-start them right away, they jump to life and start immediately. Once in a while ( sometimes a very long while later or not all on some trips), if I drift around a while with the engines off, I get the following behavior. Hitting start, the motor struggles to turn over, (acting a little like the battery is low). Back off the key and immediately hit start again, the motor jumps to life. One motor has done this on and off for two seasons. Now the other has demonstrated the same behavior. It’s like there is a vapor lock or compression thing that is broken by just touching the starter. I have brand new 27 675CCA batteries on each. The motors run from separate fuel tanks. Any ideas?","ClassicAQ. I wanted to say thanks for the tip. You were right on. Two trips now without the problem. All my battery connections were clean and seeming tight enough, I only got about an eighth of a turn on all the connections. It didn't seem like it would be the solution, but it appears to be it. Thanks, again. Boomer","ClassicAQ. I wanted to say thanks for the tip. You were right on. Two trips now without the problem. All my battery connections were clean and seeming tight enough, I only got about an eighth of a turn on all the connections. It didn't seem like it would be the solution, but it appears to be it. Thanks, again. Boomer","Great information CHawk_man! + +The trailer does have rollers down the center and bunks as well! + +I'll check out the info on setting the trailer up that you referenced. + +Thanks!" +"My boat has twin 2006 Yamaha 250 4 stroke outboards. F250TUR, Serial number 6P3 U 1005956 J and LF250TUR serial number 6P2 U 1012367 J. Both have around 400 hours on them. + +I have a very intermittent problem that only happens after the motors have been running for a while. If I shut them down, and re-start them right away, they jump to life and start immediately. Once in a while ( sometimes a very long while later or not all on some trips), if I drift around a while with the engines off, I get the following behavior. Hitting start, the motor struggles to turn over, (acting a little like the battery is low). Back off the key and immediately hit start again, the motor jumps to life. One motor has done this on and off for two seasons. Now the other has demonstrated the same behavior. It’s like there is a vapor lock or compression thing that is broken by just touching the starter. I have brand new 27 675CCA batteries on each. The motors run from separate fuel tanks. Any ideas?",Good to hear. Your welcome.,Good to hear. Your welcome.,OK good thanks again Bondo +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!","As long as the water pump is working and its pumping plenty of water up to the motor it won`t overheat,I also have one of these and i am currently giving it an overhaul, some parts are missing, eg the connection which goes from the throttle cables holder to the carb arm, got any photos of this connection so i can manufacture one ??? +Would really appreciate your help +Thanks","As long as the water pump is working and its pumping plenty of water up to the motor it won`t overheat,I also have one of these and i am currently giving it an overhaul, some parts are missing, eg the connection which goes from the throttle cables holder to the carb arm, got any photos of this connection so i can manufacture one ??? +Would really appreciate your help +Thanks","Was engine previously run at 3500 feet,if not rejetting is recommended,smaller jets.contact local dealer in your area for proper ones for your elevation." +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!","Took it apart and checked on the impeller and its in good shape, was out for 45 mins the other day and it was still nice and cool. + +The outboard it at the cottage, Il take a look to see if I have any pictures and I'll let you know.","Took it apart and checked on the impeller and its in good shape, was out for 45 mins the other day and it was still nice and cool. + +The outboard it at the cottage, Il take a look to see if I have any pictures and I'll let you know.","Since I am new to this all I presume the helm means the steering wheel and assy ? Or refering the to the motor end on the steering. + +FYI - this is a rotary system from what I have been told - not a rack n pinon.... + +Thanks for the U tube I will look at asap. + +I am planning to pull the old cable out very soon. Its in my boat slip and work will have to be done while boat is in the water. Not a project to be doing in Winter +time !!!!" +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!","Hi Yamahas, Thanks for the prompt response,if you have any photos or can take some you can email them direct to me at [email protected]. it will certainly be appreciated, as a matter of interest i have hopefully located a parts manual so might be some help to you in the future. +Thanks again","Hi Yamahas, Thanks for the prompt response,if you have any photos or can take some you can email them direct to me at [email protected]. it will certainly be appreciated, as a matter of interest i have hopefully located a parts manual so might be some help to you in the future. +Thanks again", +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!","Looking at a you tube video the tell tale seems to exit at the left rear of the lower cowling. Here is the link + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iw16Uw0pAnk","Looking at a you tube video the tell tale seems to exit at the left rear of the lower cowling. Here is the link + +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iw16Uw0pAnk",''is it possible to find one that doesn't need a lot of work?'' no...a new boat and motor requires a lot of attention...its the nature of the beast....if you use them often its a lot of work..if you dont use them they really go to hell..but everyone should do it at least once....there nothing like letting your house and everything else go to pot while you spend all your time and money doing it..excellent test of a marriage btw... +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!",My P165 is a 1971. I believe that one in the video is a later year. I brought it to the dealer and he told me it was a 71 and had no tell tale.,My P165 is a 1971. I believe that one in the video is a later year. I brought it to the dealer and he told me it was a 71 and had no tell tale.,"Ok so I had the boat in the water a few weeks ago and it all ran fine, the most noticeable difference is in the rev range and I really diddnt push it too hard, however where the engine used to stop breathing at 5500rpm it will now easily rev to 5800rpm and beyond, I held it back at 5800rpm until I get a real feel for the changes and feel confident to push it beyond that. The engine should be able to rev to about 6500rpm now in theory at least. + +Without throwing the throttle control to WOT but using about 3/4 throttle from standing start there is a noticeable difference in acceleration. I diddnt have the GPS fine logging on this time out but I can tell from the speed/rpm ratio there is an overall improvement, on average I have gained around about a 1Kn speed improvement vs rpm accross the top of the rev range. For example previously at about 4500rpm I would get about 21Kn, now its closer to 23Kn as my cruising speed. This is consistent accross the whole rev range. The engine is obviously delivering slightly more power per stroke to achieve this through a better AFR. + +With regard to top end previously I would get to about 29-30Kn at 5500rpm, 31Kn on a good day into a head wind (air lifting the boat out of the water assists in drag reduction), now that I can rev higher in the range I got to 33Kn @ 5800rpm and theres still a little more in the legs from the engine after that but for what I do I am not likely to need those sort of speeds. + +Fuel economy has changed, where I used to get around 8L/Hr its now about 9.5L/Hr but it was pretty flat when we went out and so we were crusing a bit faster than we would normally out the front and you could probhably take off about 0.5L/hr to take this in to account based on my previous logs. + +Ive put photos up of the restrictor here.... + +http://s323.photobucket.com/albums/nn455/ira11y/" +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!",,,The hull fuel tank is o.k. It made it to about 4 psi. Here are photos of the deck repair. Two cross beams had to be replaced with new exterior plywood. +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!","kiwi sam said: + + + + Hi Yamahas, Thanks for the prompt response,if you have any photos or can take some you can email them direct to me at [email protected]. it will certainly be appreciated, as a matter of interest i have hopefully located a parts manual so might be some help to you in the future. +Thanks again + +Click to expand... + + +Did you get my email?","kiwi sam said: + + + + Hi Yamahas, Thanks for the prompt response,if you have any photos or can take some you can email them direct to me at [email protected]. it will certainly be appreciated, as a matter of interest i have hopefully located a parts manual so might be some help to you in the future. +Thanks again + +Click to expand... + + +Did you get my email?","""I have a clear bowl & the + +""I have a clear bowl & the filter that was on didn't have that many hours on it,the problem was the layup & trying to leave before daylight.I know I screwed up,when I am lobster fishing I check the bowl everyday,I should have checked the bowl when the boat was at my cousins but I was to busy thinking about catching cod & haddock.The sad thing is it doesn't take gallons of water just a little bit of water will cause the reaction if you don't use the gas within the 3 week period.We are having a hard time here in Maine with gas right from the pumps,a friend of mine that works on engines put some gas that he bought right into a glass jar & in no time it started to change.The Honda dealer here was pulling his hair out by the end of the boating season & he even called the gas supplier to bitch them out but it didn't do any good.""" +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!","Thanks Bumperfood, I have already had a look at this video, unfortunately it shows wrong side of outboard, Got a manual on its way so hope i can solve my problem , got really good photo from yamahas and this was great help +Thanks again","Thanks Bumperfood, I have already had a look at this video, unfortunately it shows wrong side of outboard, Got a manual on its way so hope i can solve my problem , got really good photo from yamahas and this was great help +Thanks again",When you squeeze the primer ball does it get hard? +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!",Friend please! I would like to clarify one doubt have a similar to yours and would like to know the year of it ... thank you ... from motor,Friend please! I would like to clarify one doubt have a similar to yours and would like to know the year of it ... thank you ... from motor,"Just a little more info i have found out via you tube. I seen you need to change all fluids....so i just purchased out drive oil, that now i am seeing may be the wrong kind, engine oil, that also may be the wrong [email protected] am just trying to have a proper running vessel that is properly taken care of. the season is coming up and i cant wait to get out there. i can drive a boat with no problem. i can launch and retrive alone...that from borrowing my buddy boats. Seems like i need to slow down and wait for replys befor I get myself into a serious pickle...so any help would be appresheated..." +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!","Hello, + +My motor is believed to be a 71-73.","Hello, + +My motor is believed to be a 71-73.","Perhaps contact some companies that offer the refurbishment of trim and tilt units for sale and see if they have a source for a cheap breaker. + +OEM companies are not dumb. They do all that they can to not disclose to the general public from whom they source component parts. A good reason for doing so although it makes them look greedy at times." +"Hello, + +I was given an old P165. I am wondering if it would have a tell tale or not. It is from the 70's. The engine rums great and stays cool because I can touch it with just my hands after almost 10 mins. + +If anyone can tell me how to find it that would be great! Thanks!","Who has a 1971 Yamaha P-165 8 hp? I just got one & don't know much about that is what on it. If you gave me your email, I could send picc & questions. Also really looking for an owner's or service manual for it. My email is [email protected] Thanks alot.","Who has a 1971 Yamaha P-165 8 hp? I just got one & don't know much about that is what on it. If you gave me your email, I could send picc & questions. Also really looking for an owner's or service manual for it. My email is [email protected] Thanks alot.",I have on several different outboard models disconnected the line that goes from the pee hole in the cowling to where ever it comes out of the block. There has always been a fitting in the block that I could remove and relieve junk that has made it into the system. Maybe you already tried that... I've newer had the problem on a Yamaha. I had a helper install the impeller with veins bent in the wrong direction once. It moved water but just barely. Good Luck. +"I noticed my new-to-me model year 2000 Yamaha F100 wasn't peeing out the back but wasn't running hot either. The owner's manual makes no reference to how the cooling system works or where it pees. So after limping back to shore I see there are two pee holes: upper rear that should pee out the back and lower front that pees forward just above the water line. To my surprise the upper rear is deliberately plugged with a screw. I took the cowl off to see the lines to both holes are intact. Warm cooling water comes out the lower front hole under good pressure. + +My guess is the last guy that worked on the motor plugged the hole so he could run it in a test tank without peeing on the floor then forgot about it. The previous owner says he didn't know anything about it. Is there a valid reason to permanently plug a pee hole in this engine? The boat is in cool north Puget Sound waters so maybe the motor wasn't getting up to normal operating temp? The maintenance receipts I got with the boat make no mention of this. Thanks for your help.","Greybeard said: + + + + Is there a valid reason to permanently plug a pee hole in this engine? + +Click to expand... + + +No. However, stupidity is valid though not suggested.","Greybeard said: + + + + Is there a valid reason to permanently plug a pee hole in this engine? + +Click to expand... + + +No. However, stupidity is valid though not suggested.",Pic of finished piece +"I noticed my new-to-me model year 2000 Yamaha F100 wasn't peeing out the back but wasn't running hot either. The owner's manual makes no reference to how the cooling system works or where it pees. So after limping back to shore I see there are two pee holes: upper rear that should pee out the back and lower front that pees forward just above the water line. To my surprise the upper rear is deliberately plugged with a screw. I took the cowl off to see the lines to both holes are intact. Warm cooling water comes out the lower front hole under good pressure. + +My guess is the last guy that worked on the motor plugged the hole so he could run it in a test tank without peeing on the floor then forgot about it. The previous owner says he didn't know anything about it. Is there a valid reason to permanently plug a pee hole in this engine? The boat is in cool north Puget Sound waters so maybe the motor wasn't getting up to normal operating temp? The maintenance receipts I got with the boat make no mention of this. Thanks for your help.","Nevermind, it was crusted over with salt.","Nevermind, it was crusted over with salt.",agree with Chawk on fill with water...a place that is ofter over looked is where this type boat hits the trailer when driving the boat back on the trailer..look a little below the water line in the middle v of the boat....bad trailer boat match when this happens but dealers do it... +I have a weak spark on the plugs no spark with the outboard style spark tester. Set at 7/16in gap. Not sure what could be the problem. Computer cdi pulser coil or something else Also kind of confused on how to test the CDI or the pulser coil the book is kinda vague,"Testing components of your engines electrical system is detailed in the model/year specific service manual. If you don't own one, now's the time to invest. It can be downloaded online, $10-$25.","Testing components of your engines electrical system is detailed in the model/year specific service manual. If you don't own one, now's the time to invest. It can be downloaded online, $10-$25.","Found what I needed from the service manual. The hose from thermostat goes to the fitting in my second picture, it is a cooling hose. The other hoses in pic 4 were breather hoses. One goes to the intake silencer, other goes to a fitting near the flywheel. + + + + +Video of Lehr propane 5hp converted to run on gas:" +I have a weak spark on the plugs no spark with the outboard style spark tester. Set at 7/16in gap. Not sure what could be the problem. Computer cdi pulser coil or something else Also kind of confused on how to test the CDI or the pulser coil the book is kinda vague,Still can't figure it outI have done a resistance test on every thing Crank senor stator pulsar coil knock sensor tps sensor,Still can't figure it outI have done a resistance test on every thing Crank senor stator pulsar coil knock sensor tps sensor,"correct, pieces 8, 9 and 10. You might be able to see under there while it's running on the flush rig. You might need a telescoping mirror to see clearly" +"My 40hp yamaha outboard is difficult to start initially, then starts quickly thereafter. + +I pump the bulb til hard, choke and turn key. It cranks and cranks with no attempt to start, then tries a few times and finally when I am ready to quit, it starts. From then on it starts with no hesitation at the turn of the key. + +It takes about 3 to 5 minutes of attempts before it starts. + +Ideas welcome !!!!",Are you pushing key in while cranking it over ? --------Are you giving it some throttle on the cold start ?,Are you pushing key in while cranking it over ? --------Are you giving it some throttle on the cold start ?,"Tegweni said: + + + + When the piston comes down is what the designers took into consideration with this system of feeding oil into the inlet manifold and oil air and fuel mix after the carb throttle plate and before the reed valves, you cannot have any opposing pressure in the system and that's why they put check valves in + +Click to expand... + + +Can it be so that the reason for the four small oil check valves is to block for the pressure build up that the they are exposed to before the reed valves closes fully, the flow that goes reverse into the oil hoses due to the ""slow reaction time"" of the reed valve? + +I mean, how large of a pressure are the hoses and check valves designed for to withstand, the hose and clamps are just slid on?" +"My 40hp yamaha outboard is difficult to start initially, then starts quickly thereafter. + +I pump the bulb til hard, choke and turn key. It cranks and cranks with no attempt to start, then tries a few times and finally when I am ready to quit, it starts. From then on it starts with no hesitation at the turn of the key. + +It takes about 3 to 5 minutes of attempts before it starts. + +Ideas welcome !!!!",Yes. pushing the key in. I am not positive on some throttle.,Yes. pushing the key in. I am not positive on some throttle.,"It could just be the tell tale outlet being blocked. Try using a paperclip or something to clear the outlet. If you remove the thermostat, is water coming out? If so then you have water pumping through the impeller okay and the blockage is further along. Sometimes using air and water to flush the cooling system backwards can get it flowing again. + +Stuart" +"My 40hp yamaha outboard is difficult to start initially, then starts quickly thereafter. + +I pump the bulb til hard, choke and turn key. It cranks and cranks with no attempt to start, then tries a few times and finally when I am ready to quit, it starts. From then on it starts with no hesitation at the turn of the key. + +It takes about 3 to 5 minutes of attempts before it starts. + +Ideas welcome !!!!","Whats the year and model number? + +A cold engine can be helped when starting by not only applying choke but also slightly opening the throttle (neutral throttle). If you have a remote control system, push in the button on the bottom of control lever and move lever slightly forward. Start. If tiller, whether push button or pull start, rotate tiller arm throttle while starting.","Whats the year and model number? + +A cold engine can be helped when starting by not only applying choke but also slightly opening the throttle (neutral throttle). If you have a remote control system, push in the button on the bottom of control lever and move lever slightly forward. Start. If tiller, whether push button or pull start, rotate tiller arm throttle while starting.","Ayuh,.... Ask this in the Johnny-rude Outboard forum for better answers,.... + +This isn't an electrical problem,...." +"My 40hp yamaha outboard is difficult to start initially, then starts quickly thereafter. + +I pump the bulb til hard, choke and turn key. It cranks and cranks with no attempt to start, then tries a few times and finally when I am ready to quit, it starts. From then on it starts with no hesitation at the turn of the key. + +It takes about 3 to 5 minutes of attempts before it starts. + +Ideas welcome !!!!","It is a 2001 Yamaha 40hp CT40TRZ +Looking at it this morning I found a small hose, appears to be a small fuel line disconnected. +Looking from the back of the motor on the left side, next to the center carb. The component is about 2"" squarish like a diaphram. There is a rubber tubular component mounted on the top with 2 wires.","It is a 2001 Yamaha 40hp CT40TRZ +Looking at it this morning I found a small hose, appears to be a small fuel line disconnected. +Looking from the back of the motor on the left side, next to the center carb. The component is about 2"" squarish like a diaphram. There is a rubber tubular component mounted on the top with 2 wires.","That's funny you ask about the primer bulb, the one on my 150 Yamaha will not pump up to where it gets solid? I have a 9.9 kicker on it and the primer bulb gets hard when you squeeze it. Another Idea I thought of to eliminate fuel is to hook the engine up to a 7 gallon portable tank I have and see if it will run normally. I try to keep the fuel tank as full as possible on this boat and its down to a 1/4 tank, if there is water in the fuel with the tank that low could it be pumping more water to the engine or does the water fuel separator prevent that?" +"My 40hp yamaha outboard is difficult to start initially, then starts quickly thereafter. + +I pump the bulb til hard, choke and turn key. It cranks and cranks with no attempt to start, then tries a few times and finally when I am ready to quit, it starts. From then on it starts with no hesitation at the turn of the key. + +It takes about 3 to 5 minutes of attempts before it starts. + +Ideas welcome !!!!",,,"found the problem, was a bad ground, thanks" +"My 40hp yamaha outboard is difficult to start initially, then starts quickly thereafter. + +I pump the bulb til hard, choke and turn key. It cranks and cranks with no attempt to start, then tries a few times and finally when I am ready to quit, it starts. From then on it starts with no hesitation at the turn of the key. + +It takes about 3 to 5 minutes of attempts before it starts. + +Ideas welcome !!!!","Look at #34 in the schematic of your carb. Prime Start Assembly. Does the picture of this component look like what you're describing? If so, disconnection of this would make sense why you're having troubles cold starting.","Look at #34 in the schematic of your carb. Prime Start Assembly. Does the picture of this component look like what you're describing? If so, disconnection of this would make sense why you're having troubles cold starting.","Hi +Yes it does look very similar . +Thanks for finding this. +Much appreciated." +"My 40hp yamaha outboard is difficult to start initially, then starts quickly thereafter. + +I pump the bulb til hard, choke and turn key. It cranks and cranks with no attempt to start, then tries a few times and finally when I am ready to quit, it starts. From then on it starts with no hesitation at the turn of the key. + +It takes about 3 to 5 minutes of attempts before it starts. + +Ideas welcome !!!!","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Look at #34 in the schematic of your carb. Prime Start Assembly. Does the picture of this component look like what you're describing? If so, disconnection of this would make sense why you're having troubles cold starting. + +View attachment 15923 + +Click to expand... + + +It turned out to be the hose from the part that 34 plugs into and is attached to the side of the carb. It went from that part to the carb and was disconnected. Thanks, problem resolved.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Look at #34 in the schematic of your carb. Prime Start Assembly. Does the picture of this component look like what you're describing? If so, disconnection of this would make sense why you're having troubles cold starting. + +View attachment 15923 + +Click to expand... + + +It turned out to be the hose from the part that 34 plugs into and is attached to the side of the carb. It went from that part to the carb and was disconnected. Thanks, problem resolved.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + I never mentioned anything about ""car parts"". + +Click to expand... + + + + Im sorry chris, it was Chawk.....thanks" +90 HP Yamaha will not turn over (dead) - stopped while in idle when casting net. Motor was in down position - Learned to raise it by removing the trim motor red wire and touching it to Positive battery pole. Now motor is too high to troubleshoot. How do I lower the motor - do what with which wires. Thx.,This basic piece of information is located in your owners manual. If you don't have one they can be downloaded online for free.,This basic piece of information is located in your owners manual. If you don't have one they can be downloaded online for free.,the little round thing may continually vent if its old enough... +90 HP Yamaha will not turn over (dead) - stopped while in idle when casting net. Motor was in down position - Learned to raise it by removing the trim motor red wire and touching it to Positive battery pole. Now motor is too high to troubleshoot. How do I lower the motor - do what with which wires. Thx.,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + This basic piece of information is located in your owners manual. If you don't have one they can be downloaded online for free. + +View attachment 15901 + +Click to expand... + +I know this, but since it has never been turned it's frozen. Blaster didn't help. I'm seeking an electrical connection bypass to lower the unit (like I raised it). BTW, it was the Blue positive wire on tilt motor not a Red that to touched to positive battery pole that raised it. +Thanks for timely reply.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + This basic piece of information is located in your owners manual. If you don't have one they can be downloaded online for free. + +View attachment 15901 + +Click to expand... + +I know this, but since it has never been turned it's frozen. Blaster didn't help. I'm seeking an electrical connection bypass to lower the unit (like I raised it). BTW, it was the Blue positive wire on tilt motor not a Red that to touched to positive battery pole that raised it. +Thanks for timely reply.","Everything on the boat works: gauges, accessories, lights, the engine turns over but will not start." +90 HP Yamaha will not turn over (dead) - stopped while in idle when casting net. Motor was in down position - Learned to raise it by removing the trim motor red wire and touching it to Positive battery pole. Now motor is too high to troubleshoot. How do I lower the motor - do what with which wires. Thx.,"There is no electrical bypass. You've got 1 power wire, 1 ground. If either one is toast the PTT function is toast. I guess you could take 12v direct to PTT unit with ground, but then you're cutting wires that you not have to cut. There is an easier way....Frozen is a.k.a corroded. Take a pinpoint torch and heat the screw. Or if you really want to get nifty, heat cycle the screw by using automatic transmission fluid, or any other nonflammable lubricant. Squirt the lube on, torch the screw. Let cool. Unscrew. If it doesn't unscrew, keep repeating heat cycle until does. It's a small diameter screw so it will respond to heat quickly. Heat solves all corrosive lock-up issues.","There is no electrical bypass. You've got 1 power wire, 1 ground. If either one is toast the PTT function is toast. I guess you could take 12v direct to PTT unit with ground, but then you're cutting wires that you not have to cut. There is an easier way....Frozen is a.k.a corroded. Take a pinpoint torch and heat the screw. Or if you really want to get nifty, heat cycle the screw by using automatic transmission fluid, or any other nonflammable lubricant. Squirt the lube on, torch the screw. Let cool. Unscrew. If it doesn't unscrew, keep repeating heat cycle until does. It's a small diameter screw so it will respond to heat quickly. Heat solves all corrosive lock-up issues.",Could be the high pressure pump is inop. Have you listened to see if the pump runs when the key is turned on? +90 HP Yamaha will not turn over (dead) - stopped while in idle when casting net. Motor was in down position - Learned to raise it by removing the trim motor red wire and touching it to Positive battery pole. Now motor is too high to troubleshoot. How do I lower the motor - do what with which wires. Thx.,"Thank you - very herlpful. I thought about heating it but was concerned about a fire issue. +Best thing is the motor is UP and I can bring it somewhere rather than having someone come to me. $$$ +I suspect the issue is beyond my intermediate expertise since I there's no obvious bad wires in sight. +Final question: Based on what I did to raise the motor, woiuld that point to a black or Red wire issue from battery to the motor?","Thank you - very herlpful. I thought about heating it but was concerned about a fire issue. +Best thing is the motor is UP and I can bring it somewhere rather than having someone come to me. $$$ +I suspect the issue is beyond my intermediate expertise since I there's no obvious bad wires in sight. +Final question: Based on what I did to raise the motor, woiuld that point to a black or Red wire issue from battery to the motor?","Have you tried moving control lever to forward or reverse, then install LU with gear in respective position? There is a chance with control lever in neutral and LU in neutral when reinstalling, the mid section shift shaft will knock the LU shift shaft out of neutral. Installing LU when in it and control arm are in gear prevents this." +90 HP Yamaha will not turn over (dead) - stopped while in idle when casting net. Motor was in down position - Learned to raise it by removing the trim motor red wire and touching it to Positive battery pole. Now motor is too high to troubleshoot. How do I lower the motor - do what with which wires. Thx.,No idea. Meter test each wire for drop in volts or resistance.,No idea. Meter test each wire for drop in volts or resistance.,"?----Are you testing on a hose ?----What are the local atmospheric conditions ?------It is "" cooling "" water that has cooled the motor and the exhaust , so yes when you put your hand there it will be warm !-----Test with boat in the lake." +"I have a brand new to me 50tlrd [I think] and the trim and tilt has stopped working. It stopped as I was loading my boat on the trailer. No damage, luckily! +It was stuck in the halfway position and I towed it home like that. Sensing that there might be some air in the line I bleed the air out and got the motor lowered to where it sits now. When I press the up or down button I can clearly hear the switch activating but nothing else happens. Before I started following electrical wires I was going to see if the pump is full of oil. I think this is electrical but I'll check anyway. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance. +Joe","Remove engine cover and check fuse on engine, Mine was supposed to have a 20 amp and PO had put in a 10 amp. It blew and my tilt and trim or starter would work. Replaced with 20 now fine.","Remove engine cover and check fuse on engine, Mine was supposed to have a 20 amp and PO had put in a 10 amp. It blew and my tilt and trim or starter would work. Replaced with 20 now fine.",Everything I have read leads me to believe that the carburetors need to be cleaned. Ultrasonically. In a heated solution. Passageways and orifices rodded out and confirmed to be free and clear of debris. +"I have a brand new to me 50tlrd [I think] and the trim and tilt has stopped working. It stopped as I was loading my boat on the trailer. No damage, luckily! +It was stuck in the halfway position and I towed it home like that. Sensing that there might be some air in the line I bleed the air out and got the motor lowered to where it sits now. When I press the up or down button I can clearly hear the switch activating but nothing else happens. Before I started following electrical wires I was going to see if the pump is full of oil. I think this is electrical but I'll check anyway. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance. +Joe","bperry said: + + + + Remove engine cover and check fuse on engine, Mine was supposed to have a 20 amp and PO had put in a 10 amp. It blew and my tilt and trim or starter would work. Replaced with 20 now fine. + +Click to expand... + + +I dropped it off at the place that installed it this morning. I have a thirty day warranty. I wish I knew earlier. Thanks! +Amazingly enuff I forgot to check the oil level....LOL I deserve what I get. + +Master Chief, I was a Navy cook from 79 - 85. A little time in first division before supply.","bperry said: + + + + Remove engine cover and check fuse on engine, Mine was supposed to have a 20 amp and PO had put in a 10 amp. It blew and my tilt and trim or starter would work. Replaced with 20 now fine. + +Click to expand... + + +I dropped it off at the place that installed it this morning. I have a thirty day warranty. I wish I knew earlier. Thanks! +Amazingly enuff I forgot to check the oil level....LOL I deserve what I get. + +Master Chief, I was a Navy cook from 79 - 85. A little time in first division before supply.","bama said: + + + + I took it out today and it went over 17 at WOT. I will check my Helix 7 voltage range. I don't mind putting in a regulator, but mine has a lot more wires than the links posted by boscoe. I am mostly worried about messing up and breaking something else. I never worried before I installed a voltmeter in the dash on this boat and I think it was possible that my last motor was putting out a lot of volts. Sometimes, knowing about something makes it more likely to break. + +Click to expand... + +Your lighting coil has but two wires. Both green. Two wires into the rectifier/regulator and two wires (one black, one red) out." +"Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem.",Thanks for the post!,Thanks for the post!,Any way you do it you will need a negative cable with an eye. Check you local auto parts dealer or order online from West Marine or Boats.net. +"Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem.",Made a Tuna run yesterday and burned 85 gallons of fuel. She ran Great.,Made a Tuna run yesterday and burned 85 gallons of fuel. She ran Great.,"So just to update. I have brand new fuel, checked compression on all three cylinders 110 in each, spark on all three checked fuel lines they are all good most of them are all new. I was told might be a lean sneeze/ vacuum leak." +"Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem.",Please share the replacement/aftermarket pump model #...I've heard of people using the automotive pump with no issues...Thanks!,Please share the replacement/aftermarket pump model #...I've heard of people using the automotive pump with no issues...Thanks!,Do let us know how it turns out... Most of us here have learned the hard way so I know we all want to know what the outcome is and if your probs are fixed. +"Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem.","ReelSmith said: + + + + Please share the replacement/aftermarket pump model #...I've heard of people using the automotive pump with no issues...Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + + The Pump is a AXIOM Part number AFP - 69J34410. I've used this brand for auto repair pumps and it has a 2yr warranty. I purchased it from Amazon for $159 ea, A little coating of of something on the lugs might be a good idea but I saw no signs of corrosion in the area and put them in as the came in the box with wires attached. You should check your application. The pump is a replacement for the Yamaha pump.","ReelSmith said: + + + + Please share the replacement/aftermarket pump model #...I've heard of people using the automotive pump with no issues...Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + + The Pump is a AXIOM Part number AFP - 69J34410. I've used this brand for auto repair pumps and it has a 2yr warranty. I purchased it from Amazon for $159 ea, A little coating of of something on the lugs might be a good idea but I saw no signs of corrosion in the area and put them in as the came in the box with wires attached. You should check your application. The pump is a replacement for the Yamaha pump.","Just change the gaskets. +Then if the water seeps?? apply some sealer on just the edges. +Then get a straight edge and check the gaps before you reinstall. + +From the pics, they look pretty good. +No salt water." +"Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem.","hardrider5 said: + + + + The Pump is a AXIOM Part number AFP - 69J34410. I've used this brand for auto repair pumps and it has a 2yr warranty. I purchased it from Amazon for $159 ea, A little coating of of something on the lugs might be a good idea but I saw no signs of corrosion in the area and put them in as the came in the box with wires attached. You should check your application. The pump is a replacement for the Yamaha pump. + +Click to expand... + + +Great, thanks for the reply and info!","hardrider5 said: + + + + The Pump is a AXIOM Part number AFP - 69J34410. I've used this brand for auto repair pumps and it has a 2yr warranty. I purchased it from Amazon for $159 ea, A little coating of of something on the lugs might be a good idea but I saw no signs of corrosion in the area and put them in as the came in the box with wires attached. You should check your application. The pump is a replacement for the Yamaha pump. + +Click to expand... + + +Great, thanks for the reply and info!","I can't answer your question with any certainty, but I can offer my educated guess... +The Port side engine's alternator is charging the single start battery. This single start battery serves both engines. It is not connected to anything but the starter motors. The Stb. engine's alternator charges the two parallel batteries. There is probably a switch somewhere in there that allows you to connect the house bank (stbd) in parallel with the start bank (port) in case of emergency. It should not be set up in such a way that the start battery is ever used to power the house. The house should be able to start the engines, tho. Does that make sense? +If it is set up properly then you don't need isolator as it is all already isolated. +To add to the house, just add another battery in parallel to the two existing. This will give you extended reserve as well as greatly adding to battery life. I assume you are using deep cells for the house side. If not you should. +If you spend a lot of time away from the dock (main charging source for all the batteries) and don't run the engines much, you can run down the house bank. That's OK cz you would still have a full start battery to get the engines going. +There are plenty of ways to split up the charge pathways, add more capacity and increase alternator output. It all is expensive, so you really need to know how much battery and charging you need before diving in adding batteries willy nilly." +"Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem.","hardrider5 said: + + + + Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Update - well the new pumps are holding up fine into a second season. First trip out this season I had one engine not exceeding 2500 RPM. Took VST apart on that engine and found the screen full of very fine red material. Cleaned the screens on both motors and replaced the small ""filters"" on top of VST. Engines run fine again.","hardrider5 said: + + + + Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Update - well the new pumps are holding up fine into a second season. First trip out this season I had one engine not exceeding 2500 RPM. Took VST apart on that engine and found the screen full of very fine red material. Cleaned the screens on both motors and replaced the small ""filters"" on top of VST. Engines run fine again.","Well suffice it to say, changing engines for the only purpose of not having the ability to go as fast seems a bit peculiar. Unless there are other reasons to decrease hp that you haven't stated." +"Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem.","hardrider5 said: + + + + Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Update - well the new pumps are holding up fine into a second season. First trip out this season I had one engine not exceeding 2500 RPM. Took VST apart on that engine and found the screen full of very fine red material. Cleaned the screens on both motors and replaced the small ""filters"" on top of VST. Engines run fine again.","hardrider5 said: + + + + Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Update - well the new pumps are holding up fine into a second season. First trip out this season I had one engine not exceeding 2500 RPM. Took VST apart on that engine and found the screen full of very fine red material. Cleaned the screens on both motors and replaced the small ""filters"" on top of VST. Engines run fine again.",please help ta +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill",engine running? overheat alarm? Check to see if pee hole is clogged with small paperclip. (do not force),engine running? overheat alarm? Check to see if pee hole is clogged with small paperclip. (do not force),"Hello, + +Thank you for your reply. I have bought some 3/4 inch marine plywood as I have worked with wood quite a bit anyway. Still not.sure if I should fibreglass it or just paint it though. + +Matt" +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill",Engine running waited about a min. and no water discharge. Shut down the motor and ran a small piece of wire in the pee hole about one foot and nothing.,Engine running waited about a min. and no water discharge. Shut down the motor and ran a small piece of wire in the pee hole about one foot and nothing.,"They are not "" all the same ""------------------When you go to your doctors office you will see a diploma on the wall.------------------Ever wonder if he / she was at the top of the class or ----"" just squeeked through with a passing grade ""------------Think about it." +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill",pull thermostats and test them,pull thermostats and test them,The model of your motor was not in post # 1------Good luck with your project. +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill","bw4907 said: + + + + I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill + +Click to expand... + + +Please clarify... +#1 was the engine pissing before the new water pump was installed? +#2 Since installing new water pump has the engine pissed? + +If your answers are #1 yes and #2 no....i recon the mid sections water tube is not connected to the water pump housing. If you had a service center install then i doubt this is the issue since they would test on muff before finished. But if an amateur installed, its possible.","bw4907 said: + + + + I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill + +Click to expand... + + +Please clarify... +#1 was the engine pissing before the new water pump was installed? +#2 Since installing new water pump has the engine pissed? + +If your answers are #1 yes and #2 no....i recon the mid sections water tube is not connected to the water pump housing. If you had a service center install then i doubt this is the issue since they would test on muff before finished. But if an amateur installed, its possible.",Thank you for the re-assurance! Took her out this weekend fishing and all is well. +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill",I have had this eng for about an year and just now. The service center I bought it from had installed a new one then. I put a little compressed air where it connects up and no air comes out of the pee hole but air comes out of the exhaust.,I have had this eng for about an year and just now. The service center I bought it from had installed a new one then. I put a little compressed air where it connects up and no air comes out of the pee hole but air comes out of the exhaust.,"Thanks for the diagram, now I'm sure of the size of the nozzles. I bought this engine not long ago and it turned out that it was in a rather neglected condition, I have already replaced many things on it and I am only struggling with one problem. The speed fluctuates at idle, and stops with a big sneeze when cold. The rpm also fluctuates when warm, but then it doesn't stop. It's like sometimes there is no spark, but when using the stroboscope light and looking at each cylinder, the light flashes at a constant speed, the spark doesn't seem to stop, but the idle still fluctuates a lot. I managed to set the ignition timing. The idle speed is now 800-820rpm, then the timing is ATDC 7°. Starts immediately both cold and hot. What is still waiting to be replaced is the rectifier, the lighting coil and the charging coil, I am still waiting for their arrival. I don't know if the crankshaft encoder and pulse coil could be a problem?" +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill","bw4907 said: + + + + I have had this eng for about an year and just now. The service center I bought it from had installed a new one then. I put a little compressed air where it connects up and no air comes out of the pee hole but air comes out of the exhaust. + +Click to expand... + + +If I'm reading you correct, the ""new"" water pump has been installed for the same amount of time that you've owned the engine, one year. The service center installed the water pump, so i'll assume your engine was pissing when you bought it. + +You need to find the restriction in the tell tale (T/T): +Remove the cowling. +Find the tube to the TT exit port on bottom cowling. +Follow that tube back to the Rectifier/Regulator. Remove it from the R/R and ensure that it is free and clear. +Remove the other tube from the R/R. Verify that the R/R cooler itself is free and clear. +Follow the other tube back to the motor. Remove it from the block. Check it to verify that it is free and clear. +Inspect the block fitting. Verify that it is free and clear. +If you encounter other tubes or T fittings during the inspection process check them as well. + +While you're performing the above you can have the engines flush port hooked up to fresh water supply. Run the flush as you search for the restriction somewhere in the T/T.","bw4907 said: + + + + I have had this eng for about an year and just now. The service center I bought it from had installed a new one then. I put a little compressed air where it connects up and no air comes out of the pee hole but air comes out of the exhaust. + +Click to expand... + + +If I'm reading you correct, the ""new"" water pump has been installed for the same amount of time that you've owned the engine, one year. The service center installed the water pump, so i'll assume your engine was pissing when you bought it. + +You need to find the restriction in the tell tale (T/T): +Remove the cowling. +Find the tube to the TT exit port on bottom cowling. +Follow that tube back to the Rectifier/Regulator. Remove it from the R/R and ensure that it is free and clear. +Remove the other tube from the R/R. Verify that the R/R cooler itself is free and clear. +Follow the other tube back to the motor. Remove it from the block. Check it to verify that it is free and clear. +Inspect the block fitting. Verify that it is free and clear. +If you encounter other tubes or T fittings during the inspection process check them as well. + +While you're performing the above you can have the engines flush port hooked up to fresh water supply. Run the flush as you search for the restriction somewhere in the T/T.",Borrow a borescope and look inside the cylinders with the pistons at the bottom of the cylinder +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill","bw4907 said: + + + + I have had this eng for about an year and just now. The service center I bought it from had installed a new one then. I put a little compressed air where it connects up and no air comes out of the pee hole but air comes out of the exhaust. + +Click to expand... + + +If I'm reading you correct, the ""new"" water pump has been installed for the same amount of time that you've owned the engine, one year. The service center installed the water pump, so i'll assume your engine was pissing when you bought it. + +You need to find the restriction in the tell tale (T/T): +Remove the cowling. +Find the tube to the TT port. +Follow that tube back to the Rectifier/Regulator. Remove it from the R/R and ensure that it is free and clear. +Remove the other tube from the R/R. Verify that the R/R cooler itself is free and clear. +Follow the other tube back to the motor. Remove it from the block. Check it to verify that it is free and clear. +Inspect the block fitting. Verify that it is free and clear. +If you encounter other tubes or T fittings during the inspection process check them as well. + +While you're performing the above you can have the engines flush port hooked up to fresh water supply. Run the flush as you search for the restriction somewhere in the T/T.","bw4907 said: + + + + I have had this eng for about an year and just now. The service center I bought it from had installed a new one then. I put a little compressed air where it connects up and no air comes out of the pee hole but air comes out of the exhaust. + +Click to expand... + + +If I'm reading you correct, the ""new"" water pump has been installed for the same amount of time that you've owned the engine, one year. The service center installed the water pump, so i'll assume your engine was pissing when you bought it. + +You need to find the restriction in the tell tale (T/T): +Remove the cowling. +Find the tube to the TT port. +Follow that tube back to the Rectifier/Regulator. Remove it from the R/R and ensure that it is free and clear. +Remove the other tube from the R/R. Verify that the R/R cooler itself is free and clear. +Follow the other tube back to the motor. Remove it from the block. Check it to verify that it is free and clear. +Inspect the block fitting. Verify that it is free and clear. +If you encounter other tubes or T fittings during the inspection process check them as well. + +While you're performing the above you can have the engines flush port hooked up to fresh water supply. Run the flush as you search for the restriction somewhere in the T/T.",Is this engine reaching operating temp? Did you do a leak down test on the cylinder in question? Did you inspect the cylinder head for holes? I do this with alcohol. +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill",Is this Rectifier/Regulator under the fuel pump?,Is this Rectifier/Regulator under the fuel pump?,Anybody please? +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill","bw4907 said: + + + + Is this Rectifier/Regulator under the fuel pump? + +Click to expand... + + +#12 in the schematic below","bw4907 said: + + + + Is this Rectifier/Regulator under the fuel pump? + +Click to expand... + + +#12 in the schematic below","no, I havent had a chance to work with it yet, but I am going to give all of your suggestions to my brother and see if we cant get it fixed. Thank you guys so much for taking the time to try and help me, This forum is GREAT!!!" +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill","I have a 2001 175 HPDI and I've never been able to get it to piss on just muffs. In the water or with a flushing bag (like a tank but flexible) it pisses like a champ. I've found that covering all of the venting holes on the lower unit with tape gets it to piss, but without those covered with water it doesn't seem like it builds up enough water to send it up through the cooling system. I'd recommend plugging as many of the holes in the lower unit as possible to see if it starts going. + +I'm a big fan of the flushing bag that I bought. It made of a canvas material over a PVC frame and I can fill it up in about 5 minutes. It cover the entire lower unit. + +Good luck..","I have a 2001 175 HPDI and I've never been able to get it to piss on just muffs. In the water or with a flushing bag (like a tank but flexible) it pisses like a champ. I've found that covering all of the venting holes on the lower unit with tape gets it to piss, but without those covered with water it doesn't seem like it builds up enough water to send it up through the cooling system. I'd recommend plugging as many of the holes in the lower unit as possible to see if it starts going. + +I'm a big fan of the flushing bag that I bought. It made of a canvas material over a PVC frame and I can fill it up in about 5 minutes. It cover the entire lower unit. + +Good luck..",Thanks bondo. Did some reading about the no feedback helm. Didn't know that steering wheel pull in direction of rotation is a normal effect of prop torque on a non power steering boat. +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill",Thanks for the help guy's. I am going to put it in the water next week and see what it does before I start taking parts off. I will update after that.,Thanks for the help guy's. I am going to put it in the water next week and see what it does before I start taking parts off. I will update after that.,Did you finish up on the rebuild? +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill","rmcderm313 said: + + + + I have a 2001 175 HPDI and I've never been able to get it to piss on just muffs. + +Click to expand... + + +This should concern you. That engine is perfectly capable to have water exit tell tale. You've either got an engine side issue, such as a worn impeller, tell tale blockage, cooling system corrosion. But my guess is, since you do get water exiting the tell tale when engine is submerged, your water pressure at the spigot is too low or the muff ears are not sealed tight enough over lower unit intake. Or both.","rmcderm313 said: + + + + I have a 2001 175 HPDI and I've never been able to get it to piss on just muffs. + +Click to expand... + + +This should concern you. That engine is perfectly capable to have water exit tell tale. You've either got an engine side issue, such as a worn impeller, tell tale blockage, cooling system corrosion. But my guess is, since you do get water exiting the tell tale when engine is submerged, your water pressure at the spigot is too low or the muff ears are not sealed tight enough over lower unit intake. Or both.",What make of trailer is it ?. It really doesn't matter on some trailers. +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill","My F150 won't pee on muff's either. I was told by a Yamaha Cert. Tech that this is common with the bigger F Series engine. I do not worry about it at all because at the lake, it pees like it has been out on a weekend of binge drinking.","My F150 won't pee on muff's either. I was told by a Yamaha Cert. Tech that this is common with the bigger F Series engine. I do not worry about it at all because at the lake, it pees like it has been out on a weekend of binge drinking.","Thanks I thought it was confusing also I think it is up high there is a groove there it rests in . I talked to a local boat mechanic and he told me to get a small magnet and go through the forward gear and move the cam. I was able to get a hold of the cam and get my shift shaft back through the cam. He said they are master splined and will only go through the cam one way so tomorrow I will try to reassemble But I feel I am on the right path anyway, thanks again" +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill","justicedealt said: + + + + My F150 won't pee on muff's either. I was told by a Yamaha Cert. Tech that this is common with the bigger F Series engine. I do not worry about it at all because at the lake, it pees like it has been out on a weekend of binge drinking. + +Click to expand... + + +It's common with any engine if the water pressure delivered to the lower unit via the muffs is too low. Or if muffs are not tightly suctioned down over intake. Your engine should pee on muffs. If it doesn't it's because one or both of the above mentioned.","justicedealt said: + + + + My F150 won't pee on muff's either. I was told by a Yamaha Cert. Tech that this is common with the bigger F Series engine. I do not worry about it at all because at the lake, it pees like it has been out on a weekend of binge drinking. + +Click to expand... + + +It's common with any engine if the water pressure delivered to the lower unit via the muffs is too low. Or if muffs are not tightly suctioned down over intake. Your engine should pee on muffs. If it doesn't it's because one or both of the above mentioned.","Hi, Im currently having the same problem with my 40hp yamaha. Well when i start it up, it will run in idle but when i get to about half throttle, it starts to back fire and jump around all over the place. Im pretty sure its due to the advance timing of the engine but was wondering what degrees it should be before TDC. I have searched the internet and can not find anything? I also noticed that someone on this thread stated somewhere around the mid twentys? Does anyone know the precise degrees? +And does anyone have a workshop manual to these engines? Many thanks, + +George + + + +Benji91 said: + + + + I'm sorry that I haven't been posting anything. The engine was kinda put on hold because of crazy much work to do +in the workshop. + +GREAT NEWS! + +I noticed that the engine didn't get enough advance with the timing lamp. After a lot of messing around with the screws I noticed the linkage was put on the wrong way (see picture) + + + + + + + + + + + + + +Probably my own doing when I built it from pull-start to starter motor. + +So the when I put the linkage on the right way I had to adjust the timing again (because I messed around with it so much) It still was alot of smoke from it, but I figured I give it a go in the ocean. I attached it to the boat today and holy mother how smooth it ran. It probably was good that I cleaned the carbs after all. + +It's running great. Super quick again and almost no misfirings. + + +Thanks everyone for commenting and helping me with these problems. Hopefully I won't get any more problems now with the engine. I'm going fishing tomorrow for sure!! + +CASE CLOSED! + +Click to expand..." +"I have a 2004 F200TXRC with a new water pump but no water coming from the pee hole. I tried water hose straight to it with just a drip, I tried muffs and the same thing. What else can I do? +Thanks +Bill","I ended up taking it to a shop and they found 2 blockages, one behind the Rectifier/Regulator and one back by the spark plugs. +Thanks guys for all the replys.","I ended up taking it to a shop and they found 2 blockages, one behind the Rectifier/Regulator and one back by the spark plugs. +Thanks guys for all the replys.","Thank you very much. I appreciate you taking the time to explain it to me, and I apologize for getting a little short with you in my previous emails." +"Hey People, started my 225sx 2 stroke ( on land)for the 1st time yesterday. Had good water flow, ran for approx. 5 mins then cut off and wont start again. has good cranking, pulled plugs(they were wet) dried off plugs but still no start. pulled plugs and were wet again. ANY THOUGHTS?",Have you confirmed spark on all 6 plugs?,Have you confirmed spark on all 6 plugs?,"Have you checked the shorting switch? Could it have gotten stuck? That would prevent any spark. + +I would start with the simple first since it used to run fine." +"Hello, I have a Yamaha F60 2005 I think, I run it up in a small barrel with just enough water to cover the water intakes I notice that water comes out from beneath where the gear box houseing bolts to the leg housing. It looks likes it's coming from a hole at the front of this flange plate. is this normal?",Yes it is.,Yes it is.,"What exactly at the helm was replaced? + +Why in the helm was the neutral switch pushed in? Oh, and which neutral switch? Neutral position switch on the motor or the neutral safety switch on the motor?" +"Hello , does anyone know where to get parts info for 1980 yamaha 8hp 2 stroke outboard + thanks Jim","Depends on the part. Obviously parts for an '80 are obsolete, but some parts could be replaced by a superseded part. Also, some of your engine parts have a part number on it. If what you're needing to replace does, google search the part number for replacement.","Depends on the part. Obviously parts for an '80 are obsolete, but some parts could be replaced by a superseded part. Also, some of your engine parts have a part number on it. If what you're needing to replace does, google search the part number for replacement.","majearly said: + + + + I removed the wires from the ignition switch and did not label. Can anyone +tell me which wire is ignition, battery, accessory, and ""s"". Trey + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... The purple wire oughta be Ignition.... + +The red/ yellow oughta be the starter exciter wire,... + +'n atleast 1 of the red 1s is Power..." +"Hello , does anyone know where to get parts info for 1980 yamaha 8hp 2 stroke outboard + thanks Jim","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Depends on the part. Obviously parts for an '80 are obsolete, but some parts could be replaced by a superseded part. Also, some of your engine parts have a part number on it. If what you're needing to replace does, google search the part number for replacement. + +Click to expand... + + + thank you","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Depends on the part. Obviously parts for an '80 are obsolete, but some parts could be replaced by a superseded part. Also, some of your engine parts have a part number on it. If what you're needing to replace does, google search the part number for replacement. + +Click to expand... + + + thank you","Fixed it! + +For those who ever have the same problem, this is what happened. Someone set the linkage ""Stopper"" so that the control arm went all the way forward. This caused the linkage to the CDI to pull way too far, all the way to the left side in that picture. I adjusted the stopper so that the linkage to the CDI stopped at the II marker even when I go WOT. I saw someone a picture of someone else's engine and it looked like how mine is set now. + +Got back out of the water, and she blew past the 2300 RPMs barrier that kept bogging the engine down. I couldn't find much info on the CDI and how the linkage worked so I don't fully understand what is happening when you go past the II marker. It sounds like it goes into some kind of safety mode but still could occasionally get up to 4000 RPM. I don't know, but what I do know is that now it goes to recommended RPM and I'm happy about it." +"On a Pro-V 115 1993-1994 (2 stroke) can anyone out there with a functioning Speedo measure the exact depth of the little hole in the lower unit for me with a wire (the red part in the drawing)? I cleaned it it seems all the way back, no more sand aluminum corrosion is coming out, but still I can't get much air through it with the air compresor. I also ran a wire down from the top vetical channel and it passes the threaded nipple and keeps going but does not seem to quite reach the horizontal Speedo channel, but again, not a trace of corrosion coming up on the wire.","Today, I took the gear case off to change the impeller, and so had the opportunity to deal with the speedo clog from the top (the hose nipple) all the way to the intake hole in the gearcase. +The hose nipple is plastic, so I could not remove it. I took a welding wire like 1/16” and fashioned a drill and hammered the end like a flat head screw driver and gave it a point and drilled from the top down and horizontal at the intake hole in the front of the gear case. It took like 2 hours of work, and the compressor would not push the gunk out. I then put Ospho down the top with another 1/16” welding wire, it made a paste out of what was left and I had the keep drilling and taking it out and cleaning the wire every time and little by little the stoppage was removed till the compressor finally blew through. Then I put a straw and sprayed Isoprpyl Alcohol through it to clean it and then more compressed air. The job is done! +ANSWER TO MY QUESTION ON THIS THREAD: : the vertical depth from the tip of the hose nipple to where it hits bottom is 24.5cm . The horizontal depth of the gearcase intake hole is 3.4cm. (I was short by like 2 inches on the vertical hole the last time, and that was where the clog was.)","Today, I took the gear case off to change the impeller, and so had the opportunity to deal with the speedo clog from the top (the hose nipple) all the way to the intake hole in the gearcase. +The hose nipple is plastic, so I could not remove it. I took a welding wire like 1/16” and fashioned a drill and hammered the end like a flat head screw driver and gave it a point and drilled from the top down and horizontal at the intake hole in the front of the gear case. It took like 2 hours of work, and the compressor would not push the gunk out. I then put Ospho down the top with another 1/16” welding wire, it made a paste out of what was left and I had the keep drilling and taking it out and cleaning the wire every time and little by little the stoppage was removed till the compressor finally blew through. Then I put a straw and sprayed Isoprpyl Alcohol through it to clean it and then more compressed air. The job is done! +ANSWER TO MY QUESTION ON THIS THREAD: : the vertical depth from the tip of the hose nipple to where it hits bottom is 24.5cm . The horizontal depth of the gearcase intake hole is 3.4cm. (I was short by like 2 inches on the vertical hole the last time, and that was where the clog was.)",Would this also cause it to leak while the motor is running and not tilted up? If I don’t tilt the motor and run it on earmuffs it leaks oil out right where you can see in the pictures +"On a Pro-V 115 1993-1994 (2 stroke) can anyone out there with a functioning Speedo measure the exact depth of the little hole in the lower unit for me with a wire (the red part in the drawing)? I cleaned it it seems all the way back, no more sand aluminum corrosion is coming out, but still I can't get much air through it with the air compresor. I also ran a wire down from the top vetical channel and it passes the threaded nipple and keeps going but does not seem to quite reach the horizontal Speedo channel, but again, not a trace of corrosion coming up on the wire.","Use a gps,those speedos are unreliable and will clog again in notime ! Are you running in salt water?","Use a gps,those speedos are unreliable and will clog again in notime ! Are you running in salt water?",Also want to go to synthetic in the lower unit. The manual calls for hypoid sae90. All of the synthetic lu oil seems to be 75w90 or 80w90. Would it be safe to use one of these? +"On a Pro-V 115 1993-1994 (2 stroke) can anyone out there with a functioning Speedo measure the exact depth of the little hole in the lower unit for me with a wire (the red part in the drawing)? I cleaned it it seems all the way back, no more sand aluminum corrosion is coming out, but still I can't get much air through it with the air compresor. I also ran a wire down from the top vetical channel and it passes the threaded nipple and keeps going but does not seem to quite reach the horizontal Speedo channel, but again, not a trace of corrosion coming up on the wire.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Use a gps,those speedos are unreliable and will clog again in notime ! Are you running in salt water? + +Click to expand... + + +All True. Knowing what my speed is, is not really of importance to me, I just wanted the gauge to show something other than 00. (and I wanted to conquer the problem!) + +I do not have a GPS, never needed it for where I went for 45 years saltwater fishing (South Florida), since I knew it like the back of my hand and GPS ruined my secret fishing spots by making them easy to find again by any novice that saw me there. People would actually drive right up to me and take the GPS coordinates! + + However, now I have moved to Central Florida, and I'll be dead before the 45 years I need to have the same knowledge of the area, so sooner or later I will have to get GPS. + +Thanks for the response.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Use a gps,those speedos are unreliable and will clog again in notime ! Are you running in salt water? + +Click to expand... + + +All True. Knowing what my speed is, is not really of importance to me, I just wanted the gauge to show something other than 00. (and I wanted to conquer the problem!) + +I do not have a GPS, never needed it for where I went for 45 years saltwater fishing (South Florida), since I knew it like the back of my hand and GPS ruined my secret fishing spots by making them easy to find again by any novice that saw me there. People would actually drive right up to me and take the GPS coordinates! + + However, now I have moved to Central Florida, and I'll be dead before the 45 years I need to have the same knowledge of the area, so sooner or later I will have to get GPS. + +Thanks for the response.","Firstly, what engine is it, does it have two individual relays or a solid state all in one. If it has two relays and you only changed the one relay, then you have changed the incorrect relay, just swop back the one you removed for the other old one." +"On a Pro-V 115 1993-1994 (2 stroke) can anyone out there with a functioning Speedo measure the exact depth of the little hole in the lower unit for me with a wire (the red part in the drawing)? I cleaned it it seems all the way back, no more sand aluminum corrosion is coming out, but still I can't get much air through it with the air compresor. I also ran a wire down from the top vetical channel and it passes the threaded nipple and keeps going but does not seem to quite reach the horizontal Speedo channel, but again, not a trace of corrosion coming up on the wire.","I can sympathize with you,fished central jersey 45 years,sandy hook area,never had a speedo or gps,just a tach. and gas gauge","I can sympathize with you,fished central jersey 45 years,sandy hook area,never had a speedo or gps,just a tach. and gas gauge","What is your starting procedure? Are you priming with the bulb till firm? How are you using the choke function,throttle advance? Has a compression test been run on her lately? Has an open air gap spark test been completed, After running these two tests fuel diagnosis is third" +"On a Pro-V 115 1993-1994 (2 stroke) can anyone out there with a functioning Speedo measure the exact depth of the little hole in the lower unit for me with a wire (the red part in the drawing)? I cleaned it it seems all the way back, no more sand aluminum corrosion is coming out, but still I can't get much air through it with the air compresor. I also ran a wire down from the top vetical channel and it passes the threaded nipple and keeps going but does not seem to quite reach the horizontal Speedo channel, but again, not a trace of corrosion coming up on the wire.","Klink said: + + + + ..... Then I put a straw and sprayed Isoprpyl Alcohol through it to clean it and then more compressed air. The job is done!..... + +Click to expand... + + +For posterity sake, the repair worked for 5 minutes then got clogged again. I didn't bother with it anymore.","Klink said: + + + + ..... Then I put a straw and sprayed Isoprpyl Alcohol through it to clean it and then more compressed air. The job is done!..... + +Click to expand... + + +For posterity sake, the repair worked for 5 minutes then got clogged again. I didn't bother with it anymore.","Its usually best to replace the steering cable...they wear on the inside. + +Your choice of grease is more than adequate for the helm assembly, just use it sparingly. I'd be inclined to inspect the assembly and replace it if the internal parts are worn....they wear out as well..." +"On a Pro-V 115 1993-1994 (2 stroke) can anyone out there with a functioning Speedo measure the exact depth of the little hole in the lower unit for me with a wire (the red part in the drawing)? I cleaned it it seems all the way back, no more sand aluminum corrosion is coming out, but still I can't get much air through it with the air compresor. I also ran a wire down from the top vetical channel and it passes the threaded nipple and keeps going but does not seem to quite reach the horizontal Speedo channel, but again, not a trace of corrosion coming up on the wire.","Klink said: + + + + All True. Knowing what my speed is, is not really of importance to me, I just wanted the gauge to show something other than 00. (and I wanted to conquer the problem!) + +I do not have a GPS, never needed it for where I went for 45 years saltwater fishing (South Florida), since I knew it like the back of my hand and GPS ruined my secret fishing spots by making them easy to find again by any novice that saw me there. People would actually drive right up to me and take the GPS coordinates! + + However, now I have moved to Central Florida, and I'll be dead before the 45 years I need to have the same knowledge of the area, so sooner or later I will have to get GPS. + +Thanks for the response. + +Click to expand... + + +If you have a smart phone there are numerous free speedometer apps to choose from to download. The apps are as accurate as GPS speed, since the app uses the smart phones internal GPS.","Klink said: + + + + All True. Knowing what my speed is, is not really of importance to me, I just wanted the gauge to show something other than 00. (and I wanted to conquer the problem!) + +I do not have a GPS, never needed it for where I went for 45 years saltwater fishing (South Florida), since I knew it like the back of my hand and GPS ruined my secret fishing spots by making them easy to find again by any novice that saw me there. People would actually drive right up to me and take the GPS coordinates! + + However, now I have moved to Central Florida, and I'll be dead before the 45 years I need to have the same knowledge of the area, so sooner or later I will have to get GPS. + +Thanks for the response. + +Click to expand... + + +If you have a smart phone there are numerous free speedometer apps to choose from to download. The apps are as accurate as GPS speed, since the app uses the smart phones internal GPS.","camper8251 said: + + + + Yep that would be correct... I would say most likely you are still getting water in there and that is causing it to not turn over when the plugs are installed. + +Click to expand... + + +I think you are right - I think I sucked water up and maybe slipped past the pistons and partially filled the powerhead? I took it out of the water and spun the motor with plugs out until there was no more water coming out. Put the plugs back in and it still wouldn't spin! Its a simple head so I popped it off and tilted the pitch of the motor in hopes of draining any water that slipped past the piston into the power head since there is no oil pan I cant drain it (to my knowledge) I ran the head to a machine shop and they said it wasnt cracked or warped. the machine shop operator said the gasket looked old and that it looked like water had traveled over it. as soon as the replacement gasket arrives i'll put the head back on. for now i sprayed Lucas assembly oil on the cylinders and pistons to discourage rust. Do you know of anyway to drain the power head of a two stroke? If not I'll just put the head back on and see if the motor will cough out any more water then try putting the plugs back in..." +"My plans are to use an F20 as a kicker motor for my cruiser in case of an emergency. When not in use I plan to keep it mounted on a laydown rack bolted down to the deck that I am drawing. What I need is the thickness of the lower unit just below the cavitation plate. Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Or if somebody has a email address for Yamaha's Tech Dept.","The measurement you're asking for isn't included in the owners or service manuals. Unless you wish to wait for a reply by someone who has the same engine, go to your local yamaha outboard dealer with a tape measure.","The measurement you're asking for isn't included in the owners or service manuals. Unless you wish to wait for a reply by someone who has the same engine, go to your local yamaha outboard dealer with a tape measure.","Just realized the S/N on engine reads Z200TRXY, so does the situation change if this is an HPDI? Both cowlings and other engine read LX200TRXY so I assumed both were OX66's. + +Both have O2 sensors. + +The boat is a World Cat 266. It was originally powered with Honda 130's. The previous owner repowered with rebuilt Yamaha 200's. Not sure why they would mix engines. I have had the boat for 4 years. Both seem to drink the same amount of fuel and oil, maybe with the HPDI using more oil. + +I have been doing a lot of reading the past couple of days. I would suspect that the O2's are dirty. I do run Ring Free." +"My plans are to use an F20 as a kicker motor for my cruiser in case of an emergency. When not in use I plan to keep it mounted on a laydown rack bolted down to the deck that I am drawing. What I need is the thickness of the lower unit just below the cavitation plate. Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Or if somebody has a email address for Yamaha's Tech Dept.",I have an F20. They can't be stored or transported while laying down. Engine oil leaks into cylinders and elsewhere creating havoc.,I have an F20. They can't be stored or transported while laying down. Engine oil leaks into cylinders and elsewhere creating havoc.,"Robert graham said: + + + + I always put a drop of oil on the threads of the spark plugs before installing them….help stop corrosion! + +Click to expand... + + +Same! I think in this case the corrosion was on the mating surface between the engine block and the spark plug crush/sealing washer. Oil on the threads wouldn't have prevented this sadly - those plugs just needed to be replaced 8 years ago!" +"My plans are to use an F20 as a kicker motor for my cruiser in case of an emergency. When not in use I plan to keep it mounted on a laydown rack bolted down to the deck that I am drawing. What I need is the thickness of the lower unit just below the cavitation plate. Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Or if somebody has a email address for Yamaha's Tech Dept.",Another reason to have a two stroke.,Another reason to have a two stroke.,Have you searched the net Paul? +"My plans are to use an F20 as a kicker motor for my cruiser in case of an emergency. When not in use I plan to keep it mounted on a laydown rack bolted down to the deck that I am drawing. What I need is the thickness of the lower unit just below the cavitation plate. Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Or if somebody has a email address for Yamaha's Tech Dept.",the engine can be transported/stored on its' throttle arm side. (as per owners manual). my measurement under the cav plate is 1 1/8 thick,the engine can be transported/stored on its' throttle arm side. (as per owners manual). my measurement under the cav plate is 1 1/8 thick,"Thanks for the reply, cable is fine so will run with your suggestion." +"[h=2]Hello, i have a Yamaha 676 40BE , now I need the piston rod and crankshaft case torque specificatie.....Can anyone help me with this please?[/h]","These specs, along with all other necessary specs, are found in your service manual. If you do not own one I highly recommend buying one. They can be digitally downloaded for a fee, usually $15-$30.","These specs, along with all other necessary specs, are found in your service manual. If you do not own one I highly recommend buying one. They can be digitally downloaded for a fee, usually $15-$30.","Thanks for the reply, cable is fine so will run with your suggestion." +"[h=2]Hello, i have a Yamaha 676 40BE , now I need the piston rod and crankshaft case torque specificatie.....Can anyone help me with this please?[/h]","Ok thank you, and where do i find this one? I'm not a very technical computer woman ����","Ok thank you, and where do i find this one? I'm not a very technical computer woman ����",You've got a bug somewhere between the engine side trim signal and helm. Grab a multimeter and begin volt drop testing the circuit. +"I am considering buying a boat that has a pair of f350 Yamaha motors with approx. 900 hours, 331 hrs are under 1000rpm, 301 hours are between 1000-2000 rpms, 161 hrs between 3000-4000 rpms. Does anyone know what I can expect for a likely number of hours I can count on for this motor to run throughout its life. The fly wheel and ECU has been changed. Also, any thoughts anyone has on these motors they can share would be appreciated.","Justright said: + + + + I am considering buying a boat that has a pair of f350 Yamaha motors with approx. 900 hours, 331 hrs are under 1000rpm, 301 hours are between 1000-2000 rpms, 161 hrs between 3000-4000 rpms. Does anyone know what I can expect for a likely number of hours I can count on for this motor to run throughout its life. The fly wheel and ECU has been changed. Also, any thoughts anyone has on these motors they can share would be appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +The accurate answer to your question is 100% dependent upon the preventative maintenance each engine received from previous owner(s). You're asking when you can expect to encounter engine problems....impossible to answer without knowing maintenance record. With that said, a well maintained outboard 2 or 4 stroke can be reliable for thousands of hours.","Justright said: + + + + I am considering buying a boat that has a pair of f350 Yamaha motors with approx. 900 hours, 331 hrs are under 1000rpm, 301 hours are between 1000-2000 rpms, 161 hrs between 3000-4000 rpms. Does anyone know what I can expect for a likely number of hours I can count on for this motor to run throughout its life. The fly wheel and ECU has been changed. Also, any thoughts anyone has on these motors they can share would be appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +The accurate answer to your question is 100% dependent upon the preventative maintenance each engine received from previous owner(s). You're asking when you can expect to encounter engine problems....impossible to answer without knowing maintenance record. With that said, a well maintained outboard 2 or 4 stroke can be reliable for thousands of hours.","gear oil was black when I changed it. + +Click to expand... + + +Yep, changed it alright." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,What is your engines model number and year?,What is your engines model number and year?,"primary between the 2 wires ,secondry between spark plug wire and the wire that comes into the coil the power pack wire plugs into it , sorry i do not have the colours some one will chime in ." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,Yamaha F70LA made in 14'.,Yamaha F70LA made in 14'.,Rrough roads with rollers on the trailer have been known to damage the hulls on some boats.--------Some hulls are not designed for extreme point loads when you hit a bump at speed.----------Bunks are best on rough roads. +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"Does the weight load or the weight distribution in the boat change while you're out on these trips? That's the only thing I can think of that could explain this behavior. If it was fuel-related, I don't see how it would start off fine each morning. If it were prop-related, the rpms at WOT shouldn't change over the course of the day.","Does the weight load or the weight distribution in the boat change while you're out on these trips? That's the only thing I can think of that could explain this behavior. If it was fuel-related, I don't see how it would start off fine each morning. If it were prop-related, the rpms at WOT shouldn't change over the course of the day.","Likely to be ok as the bulk of the heat was over it, not under it. Be variable is the grade of metal used. I'd see an experienced welder (local) and seek their opinion if you want to rebuild it. + +with no boat, I'd suspect it won't be cost effective to rebuild it. worst case, call an auto scraper...you'll get a few bucks anyhow." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"Nope, stays the same, even try to make sure it's evenly distributed. Mostly just 2 guys too. I'm starting to think I may have an air leak in my fuel lines. The engine mounted fuel water separator was only half full of fuel when I got back last time. Priming the bulb filled it back up. Is it normal for air to be in the top half of that clear housing?","Nope, stays the same, even try to make sure it's evenly distributed. Mostly just 2 guys too. I'm starting to think I may have an air leak in my fuel lines. The engine mounted fuel water separator was only half full of fuel when I got back last time. Priming the bulb filled it back up. Is it normal for air to be in the top half of that clear housing?","Ok. I’ll change the filters next. No fuel pressure gauge, timing light or service manual yet. Just got the boat this year and have had no issues until now." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"As far as I know, the filter should be pretty much full all the time. A good test would be to prime the bulb after you notice the lower rpms at WOT, then see if the rpms rise when you bring it back to WOT. + +That wouldn't confirm that there's a leak, but it will certainly eliminate other non-fuel-related possibilities (such as spark, ignition timing, bad prop, etc.).","As far as I know, the filter should be pretty much full all the time. A good test would be to prime the bulb after you notice the lower rpms at WOT, then see if the rpms rise when you bring it back to WOT. + +That wouldn't confirm that there's a leak, but it will certainly eliminate other non-fuel-related possibilities (such as spark, ignition timing, bad prop, etc.).",You are welcome. I hope that the problem has been solved. Seems so. +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,Ok I'll try that and post the results. Thanks!,Ok I'll try that and post the results. Thanks!,"If you were to open up the remote control's throttle arm, under the toggle switch is the rocker contact. This contact should be clean. If when you open and expose contact it has black burn marks....need to clean that off. That minute layer of soot is preventing the toggle switch from conducting through the rocker contact. Had intermittent t/t issues as you've described...then intermittent became permanent. Opened the throttle arm as described above...cleaned contacts, reassembled. Worked like new and has done so since cleaning, over a year ago. Same contact points are under the cowling switch." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"Haven't had a chance to get back on the water yet but I tried an experiment. I primed the fuel bulb several days ago, it filled the filter housing and the bulb was rock hard. Several days later without running the boat I checked it and found the bulb soft and air in the top half of the housing. I primed it again to where the housing was full of fuel and the bulb was hard, the disconnected the fuel quick connects at the motor to see if I could isolate the air leak if there was one to either the motor side od the tank side. Lone behold a day later there is no air in the housing and the bulb is still hard. So....are my quick connects faulty???","Haven't had a chance to get back on the water yet but I tried an experiment. I primed the fuel bulb several days ago, it filled the filter housing and the bulb was rock hard. Several days later without running the boat I checked it and found the bulb soft and air in the top half of the housing. I primed it again to where the housing was full of fuel and the bulb was hard, the disconnected the fuel quick connects at the motor to see if I could isolate the air leak if there was one to either the motor side od the tank side. Lone behold a day later there is no air in the housing and the bulb is still hard. So....are my quick connects faulty???","deepsea21 said: + + + + Sticky thumb switch on the throttle? When it was constantly running tilt down did you try to trim up with the thumb switch and see if it would stop the down tilt running and start it trimming up? I am guessing both the thumb switch and the switch on the engine engage the same solenoid so if it works without issue with the switch on the engine something is going on with the switch on the throttle. Maybe others can confirm what I'm thinking? + +Click to expand... + + +This ^^^ is a valid suggestion. If all checks out with the engine side wiring, the control lever switch is most likely the culprit. If this is the case, the contact points in the lever switch can become corroded, which can cause sticking or circuit failure. The control lever disassembly is simple and straightforward. Get yourself a parts blow out as a guide. Once you've got the thumb rocker switch out, it has a rubber oval grommet that needs to be carefully peeled back to access the contact points. Using very small screwdrivers helps to peel back rubber, like the ones used to repair eye glasses. Pull the points, clean with wire brush and some electronics spray. Reinstall. Like new." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"Wow, that's surprising, but it certainly sounds like a leak of some kind. + +If your quick connects were faulty, I would think you'd see fuel leaking out somewhere or there'd be a strong smell of gasoline. But it could just be the valve in the bulb is leaking. When you disconnected the hose, I assume you left the quick connector attached to the end of the hose? If so, and the bulb stayed hard while the hose was disconnected, then that would mean the quick connector is fine (because it won't allow fuel to run backwards if it's fully closed). So maybe when it's connected to the engine, the quick connect valve opens, and then fuel starts running backwards through the leaky bulb valve. Maybe try just replacing the bulb/hose assembly?","Wow, that's surprising, but it certainly sounds like a leak of some kind. + +If your quick connects were faulty, I would think you'd see fuel leaking out somewhere or there'd be a strong smell of gasoline. But it could just be the valve in the bulb is leaking. When you disconnected the hose, I assume you left the quick connector attached to the end of the hose? If so, and the bulb stayed hard while the hose was disconnected, then that would mean the quick connector is fine (because it won't allow fuel to run backwards if it's fully closed). So maybe when it's connected to the engine, the quick connect valve opens, and then fuel starts running backwards through the leaky bulb valve. Maybe try just replacing the bulb/hose assembly?","When you replaced the water pump were all of the impeller fins in place, or were some broken off. If some were missing, they are likely lodged somewhere in your water jacket. You might try removing the thermostat and inserting a garden hose in there, seal it off with a rag, and force water through the system at the highest pressure you can get. + +The other alternative is that your water temperature sensor is bad. Run the engine with the cover off and use a heat gun to determine what the temperature of the heads and manifolds really is." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,The bulb was actually the first thing I changed. Nothing changed. I think the problem may be when the connectors are pushed together they aren't sealed tight. I don't know. I'm going to bypass it and see what happens.,The bulb was actually the first thing I changed. Nothing changed. I think the problem may be when the connectors are pushed together they aren't sealed tight. I don't know. I'm going to bypass it and see what happens.,"some of those look pretty significant, and the coloration would indicate that water is getting in there. Now, as far as repair, start with the transom, drill a couple of small holes below the waterline to see if you have rot there. If you do, then your transom is compromised and will have to be addressed before you bother to do anything else. Otherwise, superficial cracks can be dealt with using Capt Trolly Creeping crack repair, or one of the west marne products. Larger cracks should be ground down and re-glassed, a the very least it looks like you have a lot of elbow work, but again, check that transom first." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"Bypassed that quick connect fitting and the same thing. We did notice the fuel level in that clear housing drop all the way to the bottom edge of the filter, so the fuel level was actually below the filter. I'm not sure if the motor could get enough fuel with the level that low. Priming it fixed it and I was able to plane. Could my fuel pump be under powered to suck through a yamaha 10 micron fuel/water separator and the smaller engine mounted one? Do I really need 2? +And would a lift pump help? Thanks.","Bypassed that quick connect fitting and the same thing. We did notice the fuel level in that clear housing drop all the way to the bottom edge of the filter, so the fuel level was actually below the filter. I'm not sure if the motor could get enough fuel with the level that low. Priming it fixed it and I was able to plane. Could my fuel pump be under powered to suck through a yamaha 10 micron fuel/water separator and the smaller engine mounted one? Do I really need 2? +And would a lift pump help? Thanks.","I am not hitting it with the wood, I am holding a piece of wood against the end of the rod to prevent mushrooming it while hitting it with a 5 lb sledge. If I can get it out the cable is fine, I replaced it only a couple months ago. If I can't get it out then I will need to do what racerone describes, which is the big job I am trying to avoid. As for heat, yes I am using just a hand held propane torch with a friend hammering at the same time after soaking with PB Blaster. I also let out a string of four letter words at the top of my lungs, that did not work either." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"No, you shouldn't need 2 mechanical fuel pumps, regardless of the extra fuel/water separator filter. I would take it off and pump the button on the bottom of the pump housing. If it makes a wheezing sound when you pump it, you should replace it (or at least replace the diaphragm inside).","No, you shouldn't need 2 mechanical fuel pumps, regardless of the extra fuel/water separator filter. I would take it off and pump the button on the bottom of the pump housing. If it makes a wheezing sound when you pump it, you should replace it (or at least replace the diaphragm inside).",Replace the pump. +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,What does the button look like? Do I have to remove it to see it?,What does the button look like? Do I have to remove it to see it?,"Thanks. Took starter in to get sorted but according to technician, it was DOA. Got a new one and what a difference. Rotation is so much faster and starts easier." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"http://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/450054.cfm + +The plunger on the back of the pump?","http://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/450054.cfm + +The plunger on the back of the pump?","People buy boats for different reasons. Cosmetics ranks a good way down the priority list for most. A certified professional repair of that scope will not likely make any significant difference on resale value. If you are keeping an eye on resale value, the very best thing you can do is keep a contemporaneous log of all engine and boat maintenance, repairs, and upgrades. That demonstrates that the boat was well cared for." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"Right, the plunger. You have to remove the pump to get to it.","Right, the plunger. You have to remove the pump to get to it.","Vinh said: + + + + Check your safety switch first. Normally if you don't get sparks out of all the spark plugs that's an indication of the safety switch no pull out all +Yes that is one of first things I checked along with all other shut off things. It's looking like bad CDI unit. + +Click to expand..." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"Checked the pump, no sounds, seemed in good working order. I set up a tub with water to watch the fuel filter housing. After idling for a several minutes the fuel level creeps down to the bottom of the filter and with the hood off I can hear a slight knocking sound. Prime the bulb and the fuel level in the housing goes up and the sound goes away.","Checked the pump, no sounds, seemed in good working order. I set up a tub with water to watch the fuel filter housing. After idling for a several minutes the fuel level creeps down to the bottom of the filter and with the hood off I can hear a slight knocking sound. Prime the bulb and the fuel level in the housing goes up and the sound goes away.","I mention turning the crankshaft solely because moving from gear to gear should be done when shaft is turning. Do you have the prop on when lower unit is dropped? If so, turn gear shifter all way clockwise. Now try to spin the prop clockwise with your hand. It should not spin. Then turn shifter all the way counterclockwise and spin prop counterclockwise. It should not spin. Put shifter in neutral gear. Spin prop by hand. It should freely spin in both directions. If prop doesn't do any of the above, you've got a gear box issue, either clutch or dogs, or something else." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,Something is wrong !---Should not need an 11 pitch on a 16' boat.----See a dealer and have some tests done.,Something is wrong !---Should not need an 11 pitch on a 16' boat.----See a dealer and have some tests done.,The bulb was actually the first thing I changed. Nothing changed. I think the problem may be when the connectors are pushed together they aren't sealed tight. I don't know. I'm going to bypass it and see what happens. +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,"Even at 7500 feet? + + I'm taking it in Monday to the dealer. I get the feeling that I'll get the ""We couldn't find anything wrong with it"" response though. I'll post back on here when I get it back.","Even at 7500 feet? + + I'm taking it in Monday to the dealer. I get the feeling that I'll get the ""We couldn't find anything wrong with it"" response though. I'll post back on here when I get it back.","YES YES YES, be patience. Since it's winter time shouldn't be a problem. Let it cure very well. Happy Holidays." +Bought a new Starweld 16' with a F70. First time out with a 15 pitch prop couldn't get above 3200. Changed the prop to an 11 and the RPM's went up and I was able to plane an get to suggested WOT (5800). The problem I'm having is after trolling for a while with that motor I can't get back up on plane. The RPM's stay at about 4200. It has done this just about every trip out. First thing after leaving the dock it runs great then after trolling for while I can't get my RPM's up to get back. Any suggestions?,The knocking sound might be the computer trying to close a valve that's stuck open. I too would reluctantly take it in to get looked at.,The knocking sound might be the computer trying to close a valve that's stuck open. I too would reluctantly take it in to get looked at.,"I thank you guys for all your help!!! Chris you mentioned something about car parts.....I dont think they are useing car parts....i went to a boat dealer and that is the way he described it to me...a chevy motor part.....i thought he ment that chevy made motors for boats...but i will check on that....grand total for the changeout is $546 bucks....the fabrication is i think 250...the part is 200....and 1 hours labor...thats what i was told...i dont know if its smart to do.....i just ask and follow people who know alot more than me. so check if it is a car part.....I know that car and marine parts are the same but not the same....same name, same procudure, but they dont operate the same, like sparts and things like that....but thanks again guys.... + +Ken Brimage" +"New guy here to annoy everyone with my new guy questions! + +I have a 2000 year model Yamaha F9.9. I just bought this boat/motor last week. My first ""voyage"" wasn't very successful . The motor was hard starting, cold natured, and would not idle. + +Of course on my test drive, the motor ran perfect. On my first run as a new owner, she wouldn't idle. I fixed that by replacing the spark plugs, drilling out the brass ""tamper proof"" cap on the idle mixture and adjusting it to spec. The idle mixture was set to ""one turn out"" from the factory. My FSM says 2.5- 3.5 turns out! She runs good now after a throttle linkage adjustment to go along with the idle adjustment. It starts on one pull now and idles smooth as glass. + +First question; Since this motor has been ""cold natured"" its whole life, according to the PO/original owner I bought it from, the starter rope and starter unit has taken a beating. The rope needs replacing and the rope will not retract. + +My FSM says the power unit and flywheel must come out to replace the starter unit but I swear it looks like it will come out without doing that much work. I have ordered a replacement starter unit and was hoping I could just pop the old one out and bolt the new one in. + +Thoughts???? + +Second question; The timing belt looks to be the original. Its in good shape, hardly no play. My question is: Is this motor an ""interference"" motor, will the valves/pistons, be damaged if the belt breaks while running? My plan is to replace the belt at some point down the road, and if I have to remove the flywheel to put the starter in, the timing belt will get done at the same time. + +Third annoying new guy question; I need a motor cowling, mine is cracked where the front latch holds the cover in place. I have priced a new one at $250 Where can I source a good used one other than ebay, they don't have any right now. + +A little background on me, I am a diesel mechanic and I work for Toyota and repair Toyota commercial/industrial equipment. + +TIA + +Jon","What a helpful bunch in this place, 96 views, ZERO replies. + +Goodbye","What a helpful bunch in this place, 96 views, ZERO replies. + +Goodbye",Thanks I will. +"Hello to you all, I am new to this forum so here's my first question: + + I have a yamaha 6hp 1988 two stroke outboard that won't start. I suspect fuel pump or carb problem. + +I have sparks. Can I rule out kill switch problem? + +Thanks for your help + +Frank","If there is spark, yes you can rule out the kill switch.","If there is spark, yes you can rule out the kill switch.","Late reply here - but I hate when I find threads with no resolution! + +I ended up doing the boat at the mechanic before heading back to the city. After 3.5 weeks, he says the seat/needle are ""Eck"", and he needs a carb kit which is on back order. + +I'm a bit suspicious, as I just cleaned those parts the same day I dropped it off.. + +So I ordered an ultrasonic cleaner thinking there was some passageway that I just didn't get to. Art the same time, I ordered new needle valves, and a fuel pump.. here's what I've found; + +I ran both carbs through the machine for 30 mins.. some stuff came out, but hard to say if it was just from the body.. + +While rebuilding, I found the wire that snaps onto the here valve seemed way too tight. There was no play! I pulled the original needless out from years ago, and the wire had more room.. + +So I cleaned up the old needles, and used a q-tip in a drill with carb cleaner to clean the seat as best I could. I found one was a bit sticky, so thought I'd feel with it while apart. + +With the floats more freely moving, I car then at 16.5mm from the bar, with no gasket. There seems to be some debate whether to measure with a gasket, or without.. so I did 16.5 without, knowing that it would be 15.5 with.. which is on range. + +It's all back together, and it runs in the water.. however it has a sneeze that needs to be worked out. Headed back to this weekend to dial that in.. + +I'll take a deeper look at the fuel pump soon, however have another on the way just in case." +"Hello to you all, I am new to this forum so here's my first question: + + I have a yamaha 6hp 1988 two stroke outboard that won't start. I suspect fuel pump or carb problem. + +I have sparks. Can I rule out kill switch problem? + +Thanks for your help + +Frank","ClassicAQ said: + + + + If there is spark, yes you can rule out the kill switch. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks I appreciate your help! + +Frank","ClassicAQ said: + + + + If there is spark, yes you can rule out the kill switch. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks I appreciate your help! + +Frank","55 amps is not going to git er done. + +Charge the battery. Then try and crank the motor." +"I was out the other day and when I put the engine full throttle it was binding up real bad, upon further investigation I found the linkage for the oil pump snapped off and the linkage was catching on wires and fuel lines and the engine was stuck at full throttle. So I putted in on one motor and ordered a new oil pump. Once I replaced the pump and start the engine, it immediately goes full throttle no matter what the throttle angle is. I have checked all of the throttle linkage, nothing is binding, and everything moves as advertised. So now I am lost at what's wrong. Has anyone experienced this problem? Or know any solutions? The motor is a 2000 Yamaha ox66 saltwater series 150, many thanks in advanced for any help","What is the position of the accelerator cam and accelerator rod lever while in neutral? Sounds like something somewhere is not correctly installed. Since you have twins, compare linkage to the good engine.","What is the position of the accelerator cam and accelerator rod lever while in neutral? Sounds like something somewhere is not correctly installed. Since you have twins, compare linkage to the good engine.",check the primary and secondry resistance on your ignition coils and compare our readings with cdi electronics chart. +I have a 2003 Yamaha 150 2 stroke V6. When running around 2 - 3 MPH at low RPM's for about a minute or so my oil alarm starts sounding. The oil tank has plenty of oil. If I accelerate to get the RPM's up the motor starts to die out so I throttle back. After going through that about 6 - 8 times the alarm will stop and the engine will start running fine run fine. Like I said it only happens when in gear and idling real slow for a minute or so. I assume its the oil pump and it must be a mechanical pump. Any ideas?,"Do you have the round Yam tach with red, yellow, and green? If so, when the oil alarm is activated which indicator are you seeing (look at attachment)? If you don't have the tach with red, yellow, and green, you'll still have an oil symbol with a empty symbol on left and full symbol on right. You'll see a flashing bar over 1 of these symbols or all 3. + +If the oil alarm is activated you won't be able to throttle up over 2000 rpms. This is called limp mode. The oil pump is mechanical, gear driven by the crankshaft. + +Just so we're clear...the oil alarm activates despite the oil level in the main tank (on engine) is in between the 2 marks, and sufficient oil in the reserve oil tank? + +I've also attached a oil system troubleshooting tree that might be helpful.","Do you have the round Yam tach with red, yellow, and green? If so, when the oil alarm is activated which indicator are you seeing (look at attachment)? If you don't have the tach with red, yellow, and green, you'll still have an oil symbol with a empty symbol on left and full symbol on right. You'll see a flashing bar over 1 of these symbols or all 3. + +If the oil alarm is activated you won't be able to throttle up over 2000 rpms. This is called limp mode. The oil pump is mechanical, gear driven by the crankshaft. + +Just so we're clear...the oil alarm activates despite the oil level in the main tank (on engine) is in between the 2 marks, and sufficient oil in the reserve oil tank? + +I've also attached a oil system troubleshooting tree that might be helpful.","A 4 stroke engine will hod a certain amount of engine oil in suspension. +It may be possible that at 3,400 RPM and above, there is not enough remaining oil to prevent the indicator light from coming on. + + +You may need to contact Honda Marine and speak with a technician. + + +." +I have a 2003 Yamaha 150 2 stroke V6. When running around 2 - 3 MPH at low RPM's for about a minute or so my oil alarm starts sounding. The oil tank has plenty of oil. If I accelerate to get the RPM's up the motor starts to die out so I throttle back. After going through that about 6 - 8 times the alarm will stop and the engine will start running fine run fine. Like I said it only happens when in gear and idling real slow for a minute or so. I assume its the oil pump and it must be a mechanical pump. Any ideas?,"View attachment 15702 + +View attachment 15701 + +Do you have the round Yam tach with red, yellow, and green? If so, when the oil alarm is activated which indicator are you seeing (look at attachment)? If you don't have the tach with red, yellow, and green, you'll still have an oil symbol with a empty symbol on left and full symbol on right. You'll see a flashing bar over 1 of these symbols or all 3. + +If the oil alarm is activated you won't be able to throttle up over 2000 rpms. This is called limp mode. The oil pump is mechanical, gear driven by the crankshaft. + +Just so we're clear...the oil alarm activates despite the oil level in the main tank (on engine) is in between the 2 marks, and sufficient oil in the reserve oil tank? + +I've also attached a oil system troubleshooting tree that might be helpful.","View attachment 15702 + +View attachment 15701 + +Do you have the round Yam tach with red, yellow, and green? If so, when the oil alarm is activated which indicator are you seeing (look at attachment)? If you don't have the tach with red, yellow, and green, you'll still have an oil symbol with a empty symbol on left and full symbol on right. You'll see a flashing bar over 1 of these symbols or all 3. + +If the oil alarm is activated you won't be able to throttle up over 2000 rpms. This is called limp mode. The oil pump is mechanical, gear driven by the crankshaft. + +Just so we're clear...the oil alarm activates despite the oil level in the main tank (on engine) is in between the 2 marks, and sufficient oil in the reserve oil tank? + +I've also attached a oil system troubleshooting tree that might be helpful.",Thanks Boscoe. its not a tiller its on a pontoon. +I have a 2003 Yamaha 150 2 stroke V6. When running around 2 - 3 MPH at low RPM's for about a minute or so my oil alarm starts sounding. The oil tank has plenty of oil. If I accelerate to get the RPM's up the motor starts to die out so I throttle back. After going through that about 6 - 8 times the alarm will stop and the engine will start running fine run fine. Like I said it only happens when in gear and idling real slow for a minute or so. I assume its the oil pump and it must be a mechanical pump. Any ideas?,"Do you have the round Yam tach with red, yellow, and green? If so, when the oil alarm is activated which indicator are you seeing (look at attachment)? If you don't have the tach with red, yellow, and green, you'll still have an oil symbol with a empty symbol on left and full symbol on right. You'll see a flashing bar over 1 of these symbols or all 3. + +If the oil alarm is activated you won't be able to throttle up over 2000 rpms. This is called limp mode. The oil pump is mechanical, gear driven by the crankshaft. + +Just so we're clear...the oil alarm activates despite the oil level in the main tank (on engine) is in between the 2 marks, and sufficient oil in the reserve oil tank? + +I've also attached a oil system troubleshooting tree that might be helpful.","Do you have the round Yam tach with red, yellow, and green? If so, when the oil alarm is activated which indicator are you seeing (look at attachment)? If you don't have the tach with red, yellow, and green, you'll still have an oil symbol with a empty symbol on left and full symbol on right. You'll see a flashing bar over 1 of these symbols or all 3. + +If the oil alarm is activated you won't be able to throttle up over 2000 rpms. This is called limp mode. The oil pump is mechanical, gear driven by the crankshaft. + +Just so we're clear...the oil alarm activates despite the oil level in the main tank (on engine) is in between the 2 marks, and sufficient oil in the reserve oil tank? + +I've also attached a oil system troubleshooting tree that might be helpful.","I took to it with my angle grinder and cut the transom open to reveal and remove all the rotted timber. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Yer certainly goin' 'bout it exactly opposite as most of Us do it,.... + +Generally, the inside of the hull is cut out for access, not the outside of the hull castin',...." +I have a 2003 Yamaha 150 2 stroke V6. When running around 2 - 3 MPH at low RPM's for about a minute or so my oil alarm starts sounding. The oil tank has plenty of oil. If I accelerate to get the RPM's up the motor starts to die out so I throttle back. After going through that about 6 - 8 times the alarm will stop and the engine will start running fine run fine. Like I said it only happens when in gear and idling real slow for a minute or so. I assume its the oil pump and it must be a mechanical pump. Any ideas?,,,"So I had time to at least look at the cabling. I took photos, rotated them in photoshop to give you a good look at them, and this forum is having an error trying to upload them, hopefully they go through. Let me post this first to see if the pics work...." +I have a 2003 Yamaha 150 2 stroke V6. When running around 2 - 3 MPH at low RPM's for about a minute or so my oil alarm starts sounding. The oil tank has plenty of oil. If I accelerate to get the RPM's up the motor starts to die out so I throttle back. After going through that about 6 - 8 times the alarm will stop and the engine will start running fine run fine. Like I said it only happens when in gear and idling real slow for a minute or so. I assume its the oil pump and it must be a mechanical pump. Any ideas?,"ClassicAQ said: + + + +View attachment 15703View attachment 15704 + +Click to expand... + + +Are these from the service manual? Thanks.","ClassicAQ said: + + + +View attachment 15703View attachment 15704 + +Click to expand... + + +Are these from the service manual? Thanks.",https://www.slideshare.net/jkjsekmd/yamaha-f25-aet-f25tr-outboard-service-repair-manual-l-401032 +I have a 2003 Yamaha 150 2 stroke V6. When running around 2 - 3 MPH at low RPM's for about a minute or so my oil alarm starts sounding. The oil tank has plenty of oil. If I accelerate to get the RPM's up the motor starts to die out so I throttle back. After going through that about 6 - 8 times the alarm will stop and the engine will start running fine run fine. Like I said it only happens when in gear and idling real slow for a minute or so. I assume its the oil pump and it must be a mechanical pump. Any ideas?,No they are not.,No they are not.,"Thanks Boscoe, +Pulled the lower unit with great difficulty. Found the splined drive shaft to be corroded into the bottom of the power head. Also found the remains of a seal or bearing had come down the drive shaft and badly scored the drive shaft about 4 inches above the water pump housing. How do I remove the power head in order to access the area where the spline joins the bottom of the power head? +Also, the power head turns fine without the lower unit attached." +"hello, i m a german girl and need help.(sorry for my english ) i have bought a boat with a yamaha engine, last weekend.But we haven´t got any manual etc. i think the engine is from 1982. But i don´t know. in web i have not found anything about this engine. the serial is Yamaha 6E9 S 250 582 . the engine was prepared with an electric starter, long time ago. but this is broken. we need only the starter. sprocket etc is avaiable. but we don´t know to search and find the item because we don´t know the art.number, accurate construction year and so on. someone here to help ` +many greetings from a blond girl who wants to have fun with the boat.","On the engine bracket there is a plate with the model number. It will have a number, which corresponds to the engines horsepower, and a few letters. Something like this: S115TLRW or F150TXRZ + +Locate this model number and reply back with it.","On the engine bracket there is a plate with the model number. It will have a number, which corresponds to the engines horsepower, and a few letters. Something like this: S115TLRW or F150TXRZ + +Locate this model number and reply back with it.","OK I was thinking the FCC mandates channel 9 on VHS an are also operating at the same frequency as CB radios channel 9 +both are emergency channels. + +so your saying VHS usually on water won't connect w/ CB thats usually on land & CBs only connect to CB an VHS only only connects w/VHS?" +"hello, i m a german girl and need help.(sorry for my english ) i have bought a boat with a yamaha engine, last weekend.But we haven´t got any manual etc. i think the engine is from 1982. But i don´t know. in web i have not found anything about this engine. the serial is Yamaha 6E9 S 250 582 . the engine was prepared with an electric starter, long time ago. but this is broken. we need only the starter. sprocket etc is avaiable. but we don´t know to search and find the item because we don´t know the art.number, accurate construction year and so on. someone here to help ` +many greetings from a blond girl who wants to have fun with the boat.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + On the engine bracket there is a plate with the model number. It will have a number, which corresponds to the engines horsepower, and a few letters. Something like this: S115TLRW or F150TXRZ + +Locate this model number and reply back with it. + +Click to expand... + + + +hi, the number in my threat is the serial. down in the left corner there a P . nothing else.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + On the engine bracket there is a plate with the model number. It will have a number, which corresponds to the engines horsepower, and a few letters. Something like this: S115TLRW or F150TXRZ + +Locate this model number and reply back with it. + +Click to expand... + + + +hi, the number in my threat is the serial. down in the left corner there a P . nothing else.",Are those gauges exposed to the weather? Rain getting in? Have you tried a hair dryer? +"hello, i m a german girl and need help.(sorry for my english ) i have bought a boat with a yamaha engine, last weekend.But we haven´t got any manual etc. i think the engine is from 1982. But i don´t know. in web i have not found anything about this engine. the serial is Yamaha 6E9 S 250 582 . the engine was prepared with an electric starter, long time ago. but this is broken. we need only the starter. sprocket etc is avaiable. but we don´t know to search and find the item because we don´t know the art.number, accurate construction year and so on. someone here to help ` +many greetings from a blond girl who wants to have fun with the boat.","The label on the bracket looks like this picture. Disregard the red arrow. You'll notice letters after the horsepower number. These letters indicate the model of your 40hp. Just knowing the serial number will not get you to know what model it is. I believe the ""P"" you mentioned in your last post indicates a model year of 1983, but I'm not positive. If you can, take a picture of your label and post it here. On the opposite bracket is sometimes a label indicating manufactured date. Look for this label as well.","The label on the bracket looks like this picture. Disregard the red arrow. You'll notice letters after the horsepower number. These letters indicate the model of your 40hp. Just knowing the serial number will not get you to know what model it is. I believe the ""P"" you mentioned in your last post indicates a model year of 1983, but I'm not positive. If you can, take a picture of your label and post it here. On the opposite bracket is sometimes a label indicating manufactured date. Look for this label as well.","I checked the sw. and I can read voltage thru it , when the purple is lifted...further isolating the purple by the electric choke and at the coil.( with the key on and purple connected, I could feel the purple wire getting hot) does that mean the resistance wire is working? Thanks" +"hello, i m a german girl and need help.(sorry for my english ) i have bought a boat with a yamaha engine, last weekend.But we haven´t got any manual etc. i think the engine is from 1982. But i don´t know. in web i have not found anything about this engine. the serial is Yamaha 6E9 S 250 582 . the engine was prepared with an electric starter, long time ago. but this is broken. we need only the starter. sprocket etc is avaiable. but we don´t know to search and find the item because we don´t know the art.number, accurate construction year and so on. someone here to help ` +many greetings from a blond girl who wants to have fun with the boat.","hi, this ist the only label on the engine.","hi, this ist the only label on the engine.","Take the fuel hose going into the bottom carburettor and put it in a jar then crank the motor with the ignition off (kill switch out). If fuel comes out the fuel hose then it is definitely your carburettor needle valve. If nothing comes out it is probably your fuel pump given you have replaced the lines. I have had lines that were new, but had been lying around the workshop for a while and insects had made nests in them. Just because they have never been used doesn't mean they aren't blocked! + +Stuart" +"hello, i m a german girl and need help.(sorry for my english ) i have bought a boat with a yamaha engine, last weekend.But we haven´t got any manual etc. i think the engine is from 1982. But i don´t know. in web i have not found anything about this engine. the serial is Yamaha 6E9 S 250 582 . the engine was prepared with an electric starter, long time ago. but this is broken. we need only the starter. sprocket etc is avaiable. but we don´t know to search and find the item because we don´t know the art.number, accurate construction year and so on. someone here to help ` +many greetings from a blond girl who wants to have fun with the boat.",Waiting to hear back from someone who is familiar with Yam engines 1983 and earlier. I'll let you know when I do. Are you able to start the motor manually using the flywheel rope? Starting a 40hp manually isn't difficult.,Waiting to hear back from someone who is familiar with Yam engines 1983 and earlier. I'll let you know when I do. Are you able to start the motor manually using the flywheel rope? Starting a 40hp manually isn't difficult.,Most any universal sender should work how deep is the fuel tank? adid you confirm the sender was bad? Turn the ignition switch on and short the two wires to the sender together and the guage should read full? +"hello, i m a german girl and need help.(sorry for my english ) i have bought a boat with a yamaha engine, last weekend.But we haven´t got any manual etc. i think the engine is from 1982. But i don´t know. in web i have not found anything about this engine. the serial is Yamaha 6E9 S 250 582 . the engine was prepared with an electric starter, long time ago. but this is broken. we need only the starter. sprocket etc is avaiable. but we don´t know to search and find the item because we don´t know the art.number, accurate construction year and so on. someone here to help ` +many greetings from a blond girl who wants to have fun with the boat.","The starter motor for your engine is most likely obsolete (no longer sold). However, the starter motor might have a identification parts number on it, like 6H4. If it does, you can search the web specifically for a replacement. Something like this: + +USED STARTER MOTOR YAMAHA MARINE 6H4-81800-12-00 1984-88 50LG LH ELH 40SK SJ +++ | eBay + +https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...FUg7gQod1ysC5g + +Or you could take the starter motor to an automotive electric shop that repairs starter motors. They would most likely be able to repair for a price much less than replacing with a new starter. + +Good luck.","The starter motor for your engine is most likely obsolete (no longer sold). However, the starter motor might have a identification parts number on it, like 6H4. If it does, you can search the web specifically for a replacement. Something like this: + +USED STARTER MOTOR YAMAHA MARINE 6H4-81800-12-00 1984-88 50LG LH ELH 40SK SJ +++ | eBay + +https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...FUg7gQod1ysC5g + +Or you could take the starter motor to an automotive electric shop that repairs starter motors. They would most likely be able to repair for a price much less than replacing with a new starter. + +Good luck.","Test the switch's continuity by placing in hot water, attach pig tails to multimeter. Discontinuity below 183º, continuity above. Test alarm circuit by unplugging engine side pigtails from switch, then plug engine side pigtails together to complete signal. Turn key ON. Alarm should sound." +"Howdy Folks. First time posting. + +Just up-powered my Bankes Dominator (Duck Boat) with a Brand New F40ELHA and finished the brake in period of 10 hours. Since the motor is tiller control and manual trim I don't have all the gauges/controls so I just installed a digital TAC/Hour meter received via Amazon. It is one of those you wrap around the spark plug wire. + +At idle my engine falls within the manual's specified range of 700-8000. However, when I am at full throttle I am only getting 2900 RPMs in calm conditions. Granted I am on plane (relatively quick) and hitting 34 MPH. + + Manual says MAX RPM range is 5000-6000. That is almost twice what I am operating at. I do have a unique hull design so I really don't need to go faster in order to maintain control of the boat. + +Question: What do you guys normally run your F40s at for best results? At the top or somewhere in the middle? I am worried I broke in the motor only hitting half the RPM range. + + +Thanks in advance.","What pitch prop is installed? + +Those spark plug wrapped tachometers are not completely reliable. When you are at WOT, does the engine sound winded out? As in, it's giving you everything it has. With a top end rpm spec range of 6k, I find it hard to believe you're only getting half of that at WOT. + +If your neutral idle rpms are 700-800, your WOT rpms are 2900...I assume you mid-throttle rpms are around 2000. Which seems far too low. So my first inclination is to question the tach, being its reliability is questionable to begin with.","What pitch prop is installed? + +Those spark plug wrapped tachometers are not completely reliable. When you are at WOT, does the engine sound winded out? As in, it's giving you everything it has. With a top end rpm spec range of 6k, I find it hard to believe you're only getting half of that at WOT. + +If your neutral idle rpms are 700-800, your WOT rpms are 2900...I assume you mid-throttle rpms are around 2000. Which seems far too low. So my first inclination is to question the tach, being its reliability is questionable to begin with.","All those words. Yet the most important are missing. + +What is the model of the motor? There are over 10 different versions of a Yamaha four stroke 9.9 HP motor. Here in just the USA alone. + +There are models with no lighting coils. There are models with lighting coils but no rectifier or rectifier/regulator. There are models with lighting coils but only a rectifier. There are models with lighting coils and a rectifier/regulator." +"Howdy Folks. First time posting. + +Just up-powered my Bankes Dominator (Duck Boat) with a Brand New F40ELHA and finished the brake in period of 10 hours. Since the motor is tiller control and manual trim I don't have all the gauges/controls so I just installed a digital TAC/Hour meter received via Amazon. It is one of those you wrap around the spark plug wire. + +At idle my engine falls within the manual's specified range of 700-8000. However, when I am at full throttle I am only getting 2900 RPMs in calm conditions. Granted I am on plane (relatively quick) and hitting 34 MPH. + + Manual says MAX RPM range is 5000-6000. That is almost twice what I am operating at. I do have a unique hull design so I really don't need to go faster in order to maintain control of the boat. + +Question: What do you guys normally run your F40s at for best results? At the top or somewhere in the middle? I am worried I broke in the motor only hitting half the RPM range. + + +Thanks in advance.","Thanks for the response. Yes, the engine does sound winded out WOT. Kinda my suspicion too on the accuracy of the tach. Thanks for confirming that. At 34 MPH and a 15 foot duck boat I am extremely happy with it.","Thanks for the response. Yes, the engine does sound winded out WOT. Kinda my suspicion too on the accuracy of the tach. Thanks for confirming that. At 34 MPH and a 15 foot duck boat I am extremely happy with it.",???----The 40A models are shown with one carburetor.-----Carburetors are simple and can usually be repaired.---Why not yours ? +"Howdy Folks. First time posting. + +Just up-powered my Bankes Dominator (Duck Boat) with a Brand New F40ELHA and finished the brake in period of 10 hours. Since the motor is tiller control and manual trim I don't have all the gauges/controls so I just installed a digital TAC/Hour meter received via Amazon. It is one of those you wrap around the spark plug wire. + +At idle my engine falls within the manual's specified range of 700-8000. However, when I am at full throttle I am only getting 2900 RPMs in calm conditions. Granted I am on plane (relatively quick) and hitting 34 MPH. + + Manual says MAX RPM range is 5000-6000. That is almost twice what I am operating at. I do have a unique hull design so I really don't need to go faster in order to maintain control of the boat. + +Question: What do you guys normally run your F40s at for best results? At the top or somewhere in the middle? I am worried I broke in the motor only hitting half the RPM range. + + +Thanks in advance.","If you're hitting 34mph in a duck boat, I would say your tach just might be bad. If you really were at 2900 rpm, I would expect you to be going much slower than 34, and you wouldn't be happy with the performance.","If you're hitting 34mph in a duck boat, I would say your tach just might be bad. If you really were at 2900 rpm, I would expect you to be going much slower than 34, and you wouldn't be happy with the performance.","Sh1t just sometimes happens. Parts fail internally and smoke gets out. + +There is little external that I can think of that will cause an internal failure of a CDI. + +You can find them used on Ebay for much less than the price of a new one. + +Would not hurt to inspect all electrical connections to make sure every thing is clean and tight." +"Howdy Folks. First time posting. + +Just up-powered my Bankes Dominator (Duck Boat) with a Brand New F40ELHA and finished the brake in period of 10 hours. Since the motor is tiller control and manual trim I don't have all the gauges/controls so I just installed a digital TAC/Hour meter received via Amazon. It is one of those you wrap around the spark plug wire. + +At idle my engine falls within the manual's specified range of 700-8000. However, when I am at full throttle I am only getting 2900 RPMs in calm conditions. Granted I am on plane (relatively quick) and hitting 34 MPH. + + Manual says MAX RPM range is 5000-6000. That is almost twice what I am operating at. I do have a unique hull design so I really don't need to go faster in order to maintain control of the boat. + +Question: What do you guys normally run your F40s at for best results? At the top or somewhere in the middle? I am worried I broke in the motor only hitting half the RPM range. + + +Thanks in advance.","Roger that and concur. I really boat it for the hour meter feature anyway. That seems to work just fine. Thanks. + +TCS","Roger that and concur. I really boat it for the hour meter feature anyway. That seems to work just fine. Thanks. + +TCS","Might be the CDI. Give it a try. Let us know if it works please. + +http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=YAM63D-85540-04-00" +"hallo i am new to this forum. but see there are lots of good helpers here + +my problem is the following + +there is no signal from the charge coil to the cdi unit when cranking. but when i disconnect the two wires from the charge coil i measure correct signal. i use proffessional test eguipment borrowed from a friend. + +could it be that the charge coil is nearly brioken some place?? + +any ideas","Let's first start with the basics...what is your engines model & year. + +Did you confirm no spark at plugs before meter testing coils? If not, that's where you start, then work your way back towards cdi.","Let's first start with the basics...what is your engines model & year. + +Did you confirm no spark at plugs before meter testing coils? If not, that's where you start, then work your way back towards cdi.","Bondo, + +the boat ""Crownline"" has alot custom trim on the parts. doubtful I will be able to get a crownline product. does/will the control arm (handle) and face plate at the sidewall fit over the new controller. +or +can the controller be rebuilt with a new stops for neutral and a lanyard switch. + +who would sell. + +I need to get model number and brand of control box. + +thanks" +"hallo i am new to this forum. but see there are lots of good helpers here + +my problem is the following + +there is no signal from the charge coil to the cdi unit when cranking. but when i disconnect the two wires from the charge coil i measure correct signal. i use proffessional test eguipment borrowed from a friend. + +could it be that the charge coil is nearly brioken some place?? + +any ideas","thanks for reply. + +engine is 2002 mod 25hp two stroke european model manual start 25NMHO + +the ignition coils are new. and yes no spark at plugs.","thanks for reply. + +engine is 2002 mod 25hp two stroke european model manual start 25NMHO + +the ignition coils are new. and yes no spark at plugs.","johnnygjr said: + + + + From inside of prop next to prop shaft nut outwards to propeller hub + +Click to expand... + + +Ok. If I test it in the bay the saltwater will erase the line right?" +"hallo i am new to this forum. but see there are lots of good helpers here + +my problem is the following + +there is no signal from the charge coil to the cdi unit when cranking. but when i disconnect the two wires from the charge coil i measure correct signal. i use proffessional test eguipment borrowed from a friend. + +could it be that the charge coil is nearly brioken some place?? + +any ideas",solved new cdi box and everything worked,solved new cdi box and everything worked,"Thanks deepsea21 for all the info . I checked the fuel bulb and replaced the main filters like you said but no help..Thinking about how it cuts out ( shuts down ) when I advance out of gear made me think it was something else. So I looked more into the shift position switch. Also thanks Chris for the heads up where it was. To make a long story short I went ahead and changed it . It now starts up and when advanced the throttle out of gear it does not shut down. Haven't checked it out on open water yet but I'm sure it will check out. Yea I know we all heard that before . I will post how it will check out tomorrow ,going off shore for some tuna." +I have twin 4.2L 300hp Yamaha's on my boat and could not be more pleased with them to this point. I have just over 300 hours on them and was curious how many reliable hours I might expect to get from them with proper care and maintenance.,"If I'm reading you correctly, you're asking when to expect engine problems??? If someone gives you the answer to that question make sure you also get from him/her the next winning lottery numbers. + +Not to knock you down, I can appreciate an operator who wants to stay on top of their engines maintenance and performance. Be that as it may, there is absolutely no way to determine when a well maintained engine will have issues. A poorly maintained engine...now that's a different story.","If I'm reading you correctly, you're asking when to expect engine problems??? If someone gives you the answer to that question make sure you also get from him/her the next winning lottery numbers. + +Not to knock you down, I can appreciate an operator who wants to stay on top of their engines maintenance and performance. Be that as it may, there is absolutely no way to determine when a well maintained engine will have issues. A poorly maintained engine...now that's a different story.",My question is with it being different jet size would that be an issue? I wonder if there is some change between 1987 and 1989 that required a jet change. +"I've got a new to me 10yo T25TLR that I started daily for a week, then cast off to move the boat. When I idled down for a bridge opening it stalled and then would not start again. I could have easily flooded it, because of the situation, but after quite a while it was still hard to start. + +I had the engine ""repaired"" at the boatyard, and the mechanic apparently cleaned the carb and replaced only the pin float and needle valve. + +Engine started after putting carb in, we ran it all day, then I idled it down, it stalled, I tried to start it and again same problem. + +I installed a fuel/gas separator and with some trouble got the engine to start again, ran it all day, and then idled down...repeat performance. + +The one thing that i did notice when adding the filter the fuel line appears to be 3/16 ID, and according to Yamaha dealers, should be 3/8"". That will be my next quick fix, but I'm wondering if anyone has any other ideas??? + +I live 3000 mi from the boat, so when I'm there I need to try to be efficient. + +All ideas welcome, thanks in advance...","Fuel lines should be 3/8"". When you're idling and vacuum pressure is at its lowest, I imagine the fuel pump cannot deliver fuel through a 3/16"" line.","Fuel lines should be 3/8"". When you're idling and vacuum pressure is at its lowest, I imagine the fuel pump cannot deliver fuel through a 3/16"" line.","Boat has sat in the water since 1999. I phoned Edgewater and they said there was a problem with the drain on the front bait well leaking into the hull. Looks like a very big job to tear this boat apart. I'm tapped out with boat projects at the moment, so it will get farmed out if I keep this boat. At this point; I'd prefer to find an aluminum boat that will take the Tohatsu. Happy with this motor. 800 pounds?? I bet mine weighs a couple of thousand. Not sure of my pitch on the prop, but it will probably pull to 5400 or so if I wind it out." +"I have a 30DEO 2 stroke which,at times, keeps running when the ignition is switched off, or when the kill cord is pulled. Only way to kill it is to pull out the choke on the engine. Engineer from Seastart said he'd never met such a thing before. Anyone know what's causing it (and how to cure it)?","Corystes said: + + + + I have a 30DEO 2 stroke which,at times, keeps running when the ignition is switched off, or when the kill cord is pulled. Only way to kill it is to pull out the choke on the engine. Engineer from Seastart said he'd never met such a thing before. Anyone know what's causing it (and how to cure it)? + +Click to expand... + + + +You posted the same question on the yamaha outboard forums. The answer was provided to you. Follow this link to remind yourself: +http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/...nt-stop-when-ignition-turned-off-th28667.html","Corystes said: + + + + I have a 30DEO 2 stroke which,at times, keeps running when the ignition is switched off, or when the kill cord is pulled. Only way to kill it is to pull out the choke on the engine. Engineer from Seastart said he'd never met such a thing before. Anyone know what's causing it (and how to cure it)? + +Click to expand... + + + +You posted the same question on the yamaha outboard forums. The answer was provided to you. Follow this link to remind yourself: +http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/...nt-stop-when-ignition-turned-off-th28667.html","schreck421 said: + + + + Is it possible that the carbs could have worked for a while, then some gunk that was in the chamber or something finally broke free and got into one of the jets? + +Click to expand... + + +Absolutely possible, yes. Replace the fuel pump...it should not be leaking. I'm surprised you didn't smell a strong fuel odor from the cowling....fuel must have been accumulating in the lower cowling pan." +"Just trying to work out the date of manufacture for a 2.5hp yam 4 stroke. + +Label says F25AMH 69M L with an F in the lower right corner. + +I did read that F was 2010 but this may be only Asian made motors? + +Cheers!","Yamaha 2006 and later models do not have a ""model year"" letter included at the end of the model number. However, the manufactured date is specified on the label, located on port side engine bracket.","Yamaha 2006 and later models do not have a ""model year"" letter included at the end of the model number. However, the manufactured date is specified on the label, located on port side engine bracket.","chawk_man said: + + + + It's a boat - things go wrong even when it's just sitting there all by its lonesome. + +Click to expand... + + +Down here they refer to it as ""S... Happens Man"". I don't subscribe to that. Somewhere is a cause. Spent my whole career looking for causes and made a good living in the process. Agree it will sit there and break, buttttttt there is a cause. We know that. Just making conversation. + +Mark" +"Just trying to work out the date of manufacture for a 2.5hp yam 4 stroke. + +Label says F25AMH 69M L with an F in the lower right corner. + +I did read that F was 2010 but this may be only Asian made motors? + +Cheers!","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Yamaha 2006 and later models do not have a ""model year"" letter included at the end of the model number. However, the manufactured date is specified on the label, located on port side engine bracket. + +Click to expand... + + + +No sign of any dates on mine...","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Yamaha 2006 and later models do not have a ""model year"" letter included at the end of the model number. However, the manufactured date is specified on the label, located on port side engine bracket. + +Click to expand... + + + +No sign of any dates on mine...",There are some good videos on deck repair you may wand to fill the empty space with pouring foam just use a hole saw and cut some holes to pour into and just use the rounds to plug the holes then glass over everything you can get everything at Home Depot or most any hardware store. Get a good roller to roll out the bubbles as you go. It’s fun but messy work. +"Hi everyone, i recently purchase a 2002 yamaha 30mlha 2 stroke engine. Compress at 125 on the 3 cylinder + +Last time i used it he works perfectly but suddenly slow down until it shut off and won't start again. + +I have fuel splash when i remove the last fuel hose before the carburetor and oil in the thank. + +The spark is good but seems to have no fuel goes in cylinder. When i introduce a mix in the cylinder it starts well but shut off. + + + +Whats the next step?? + +Thank you","welder18 said: + + + + I have fuel splash when i remove the last fuel hose before the carburetor and oil in the thank. + +Click to expand... + + +What are you stating here? + +If you're not familiar with names of specific parts, follow this link to your engine schematic: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2002/30MSHA/parts.html","welder18 said: + + + + I have fuel splash when i remove the last fuel hose before the carburetor and oil in the thank. + +Click to expand... + + +What are you stating here? + +If you're not familiar with names of specific parts, follow this link to your engine schematic: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2002/30MSHA/parts.html","paw2000 said: + + + + also has 4 spades, 2 used for on off functions and the other 2 used for momentary. + +Click to expand... + + +is that info. printed on the switch?" +"Hi everyone, i recently purchase a 2002 yamaha 30mlha 2 stroke engine. Compress at 125 on the 3 cylinder + +Last time i used it he works perfectly but suddenly slow down until it shut off and won't start again. + +I have fuel splash when i remove the last fuel hose before the carburetor and oil in the thank. + +The spark is good but seems to have no fuel goes in cylinder. When i introduce a mix in the cylinder it starts well but shut off. + + + +Whats the next step?? + +Thank you","ClassicAQ said: + + + + What are you stating here? + +If you're not familiar with names of specific parts, follow this link to your engine schematic: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2002/30MSHA/parts.html + +Click to expand... + + + +Sorry no i'm not familiar with the parts name and not speaking in english but i try! + + +I remove the hose between the fuel pump and carburetor and fuel plash from it when i pump the primer. + +So the fuel go to the carburetor but not in the cylinder. + +When i shoot the gas directly in cylinder or intake it starts great but shut off fast. + +Spark plug + fire = Great + +Oil level = full","ClassicAQ said: + + + + What are you stating here? + +If you're not familiar with names of specific parts, follow this link to your engine schematic: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2002/30MSHA/parts.html + +Click to expand... + + + +Sorry no i'm not familiar with the parts name and not speaking in english but i try! + + +I remove the hose between the fuel pump and carburetor and fuel plash from it when i pump the primer. + +So the fuel go to the carburetor but not in the cylinder. + +When i shoot the gas directly in cylinder or intake it starts great but shut off fast. + +Spark plug + fire = Great + +Oil level = full","delmo777 said: + + + + I'm pretty sure it's a 170 mercruiser but I have to delve in a bit more, the motor is missing the valve covers so I'm not sure, could be 200 mercruiser. + +Click to expand... + + +The 200 Mercruiser would be the only version to have a 4bbl carb. on it" +"Hi everyone, i recently purchase a 2002 yamaha 30mlha 2 stroke engine. Compress at 125 on the 3 cylinder + +Last time i used it he works perfectly but suddenly slow down until it shut off and won't start again. + +I have fuel splash when i remove the last fuel hose before the carburetor and oil in the thank. + +The spark is good but seems to have no fuel goes in cylinder. When i introduce a mix in the cylinder it starts well but shut off. + + + +Whats the next step?? + +Thank you","welder18 said: + + + + Sorry no i'm not familiar with the parts name and not speaking in english but i try! + + +I remove the hose between the fuel pump and carburetor and fuel plash from it when i pump the primer. + +So the fuel go to the carburetor but not in the cylinder. + +When i shoot the gas directly in cylinder or intake it starts great but shut off fast. + +Spark plug + fire = Great + +Oil level = full + +Click to expand... + + +Ok, now I understand. Sounds like fuel is not getting to carbs while engine is running. Follow these steps: + +* Reconnect fuel pump hose to carbs. Dismount fuel pump. Have a friend prime the bulb as you look for a fuel leak behind the fuel pump. If it leaks, replace. If not, see below. +* Mount fuel pump. Start engine. Keep your hand around primer bulb, but do not squeeze. Take notice of the bulb and if it remains partially full or if it collapses. If it collapses, cut engine off. Re-prime bulb and start engine. This time, keep the primer bulb from collapsing by gently squeezing bulb. Don't let it collapse. Does engine continue to run? If so, replace fuel pump cause it's dead.","welder18 said: + + + + Sorry no i'm not familiar with the parts name and not speaking in english but i try! + + +I remove the hose between the fuel pump and carburetor and fuel plash from it when i pump the primer. + +So the fuel go to the carburetor but not in the cylinder. + +When i shoot the gas directly in cylinder or intake it starts great but shut off fast. + +Spark plug + fire = Great + +Oil level = full + +Click to expand... + + +Ok, now I understand. Sounds like fuel is not getting to carbs while engine is running. Follow these steps: + +* Reconnect fuel pump hose to carbs. Dismount fuel pump. Have a friend prime the bulb as you look for a fuel leak behind the fuel pump. If it leaks, replace. If not, see below. +* Mount fuel pump. Start engine. Keep your hand around primer bulb, but do not squeeze. Take notice of the bulb and if it remains partially full or if it collapses. If it collapses, cut engine off. Re-prime bulb and start engine. This time, keep the primer bulb from collapsing by gently squeezing bulb. Don't let it collapse. Does engine continue to run? If so, replace fuel pump cause it's dead.","Thanks for the reply boscoe. + +The motor seems to run fine. No blowby and doesn't consume oil. The gauges are not calibrated. I use an OTC 5605 compression test kit and an OTC 5609 leakage test kit which are DIY test kits. + +I decided to pop the flywheel to check the crankshaft timing mark against the cam pulleys and it was off a couple teeth. I made sure they were set correctly and checked the carb sync which was off, so I resync'ed the carbs. Then I set the TPS to the correct voltage at 900 RPM and took it out for a run. + +It runs good, accelerates and decels properly. It's on a 25ft pontoon boat. It was too windy and choppy to open it up to full throttle, but ran without any issues to around 4000-4500 RPM. Have to wait for a better day to give it a good long run at different RPMs and see how it performs. + +I just bought the boat a month ago. I know the previous owner only used regular Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. I was thinking of putting some hours on it with a tank of enriched ring free plus and stabil marine, and then rechecking the compression and leakage. It may be okay. I just didn't want to risk blowing the motor if there was something that need to be addressed now. + +Thanks Again, +Bob" +"Hi everyone, i recently purchase a 2002 yamaha 30mlha 2 stroke engine. Compress at 125 on the 3 cylinder + +Last time i used it he works perfectly but suddenly slow down until it shut off and won't start again. + +I have fuel splash when i remove the last fuel hose before the carburetor and oil in the thank. + +The spark is good but seems to have no fuel goes in cylinder. When i introduce a mix in the cylinder it starts well but shut off. + + + +Whats the next step?? + +Thank you","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Ok, now I understand. Sounds like fuel is not getting to carbs while engine is running. Follow these steps: + +* Reconnect fuel pump hose to carbs. Dismount fuel pump. Have a friend prime the bulb as you look for a fuel leak behind the fuel pump. If it leaks, replace. If not, see below. +* Mount fuel pump. Start engine. Keep your hand around primer bulb, but do not squeeze. Take notice of the bulb and if it remains partially full or if it collapses. If it collapses, cut engine off. Re-prime bulb and start engine. This time, keep the primer bulb from collapsing by gently squeezing bulb. Don't let it collapse. Does engine continue to run? If so, replace fuel pump cause it's dead. + +Click to expand... + + +You are probably all right. Today i have dismount the fuel pump and the diaphragm is broken. I placed an order for the replacements parts and see this weekend if it works! Pretty sure it was an resolved case! + +Thank you","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Ok, now I understand. Sounds like fuel is not getting to carbs while engine is running. Follow these steps: + +* Reconnect fuel pump hose to carbs. Dismount fuel pump. Have a friend prime the bulb as you look for a fuel leak behind the fuel pump. If it leaks, replace. If not, see below. +* Mount fuel pump. Start engine. Keep your hand around primer bulb, but do not squeeze. Take notice of the bulb and if it remains partially full or if it collapses. If it collapses, cut engine off. Re-prime bulb and start engine. This time, keep the primer bulb from collapsing by gently squeezing bulb. Don't let it collapse. Does engine continue to run? If so, replace fuel pump cause it's dead. + +Click to expand... + + +You are probably all right. Today i have dismount the fuel pump and the diaphragm is broken. I placed an order for the replacements parts and see this weekend if it works! Pretty sure it was an resolved case! + +Thank you","Thanks for your response. Turns out it was a bad coil on one cylinder. I screwed up when I was testing the spark the first time, checked it again and no spark. Anyway I feel like an idiot for not double checking the obvious, at least I finally figured it out!" +"Hi everyone, i recently purchase a 2002 yamaha 30mlha 2 stroke engine. Compress at 125 on the 3 cylinder + +Last time i used it he works perfectly but suddenly slow down until it shut off and won't start again. + +I have fuel splash when i remove the last fuel hose before the carburetor and oil in the thank. + +The spark is good but seems to have no fuel goes in cylinder. When i introduce a mix in the cylinder it starts well but shut off. + + + +Whats the next step?? + +Thank you",Good to hear. Your welcome.,Good to hear. Your welcome.,"Buy one of each,bigger is better,car type batteries seem to work better than maintenance free ones, Cranking battery is for starting,Deep cell or DeepCycle is for running accessories,lights, bilge, pump, radio,horn. Turn battery switch to#2 after engine has been started. Not beneficial to run switch in the ""both"" position while underway. Both batteries should be dated similar and from same lot # if possible." +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs","Possible air leak in fuel system, Might need to pull carbs. and disassemble them,soak over night, clean thoroughly and rebuild with new gaskets,needle+seats,reset floats carefully,then bench test with fuel pressure with primer bulb in a vise to test seats","Possible air leak in fuel system, Might need to pull carbs. and disassemble them,soak over night, clean thoroughly and rebuild with new gaskets,needle+seats,reset floats carefully,then bench test with fuel pressure with primer bulb in a vise to test seats","purplewg said: + + + + I did what you suggested. I have a center of motor bracket to center of steering shaft hole is 12 inches. My link rod is 11 inches. Looks like I will need a longer and maybe adjustable link rod. thanks for the help + +Click to expand... + + +I was looking at the rod I took off and it is a Yamaha rod. lol Not that is matters but for sure is not the correct one. I built a ""test"" rod out of wood. I went with 12 inches first. It will not get me stop to stop but better. I then made a 13 inch one and it will go to the stop on the starboard side but no where near the stop on the port. Something for sure is off center somewhere it appears to me. I also found the steering spindle top mounting bolt is about 3/8 inch out, rusted, won't go in or out without twisting it off. Looking for a repair place now to fix that. Power head will have to come off to get to the nut on the inside. I can't do it because of cutoff wheel accident on my right hand." +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs","rips said: + + + + after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. + +Click to expand... + + The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb. + +With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets? + +By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html","rips said: + + + + after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. + +Click to expand... + + The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb. + +With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets? + +By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html","Ayuh,... Sounds like an Outboard tach, not an I/O tach... + +It wants to read alternator pulses, rather than the coil firin'..." +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs","ClassicAQ said: + + + + The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb. + +With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets? + +By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html + +Click to expand... + + thanks guys and wow thanks for the explanation makes total sense, i do not know the last time if ever they where cleaned i purchased the boat about two months ago.... also how much harm is it going to cause that i didnt drain the carb its going to sit for the next 8 weeks","ClassicAQ said: + + + + The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb. + +With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets? + +By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html + +Click to expand... + + thanks guys and wow thanks for the explanation makes total sense, i do not know the last time if ever they where cleaned i purchased the boat about two months ago.... also how much harm is it going to cause that i didnt drain the carb its going to sit for the next 8 weeks","aliboy said: + + + + One option I have heard people try is to loosen off all the nuts half way and then run the boat a short distance going in and out of gear. Could also do it in a tub I guess if you can keep enough water in it. +Failing that, slide a hacksaw or sabre saw blade in between the casings (if you can) and cut the shaft. + +Click to expand... + + +I guess it might come to that, what's the worst that could happen, a new drive shaft or would there be damage to the water pump housing too? + +Want to to say thanks to you guys for putting those suggestions out there, appreciate that. +Thanks" +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs","ClassicAQ said: + + + + The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb. + +With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets? + +By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html + +Click to expand... + +thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again","ClassicAQ said: + + + + The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb. + +With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets? + +By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html + +Click to expand... + +thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again","I just started the motor again , where does the water exit the motor ,throught the exhaust?" +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs","rips said: + + + + thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again + +Click to expand... + + +Pulling the carbs for cleaning is not considered PM (preventative maintenance). So unless the previous owner told you carbs were cleaned on such and such year/month, etc, then I was assume they have not been cleaned. Many boat owners who do not service their own engines believe carb cleaning means to spray carb cleaner into the throat while the engine runs. This does nothing. Carbs need to be pulled out, torn apart and inspected. All jets need to soak in carb cleaner or likewise debris breakdown solution. You want to be able to see through each jet. + +A standard carb kit ($86) is what you'll want, x2 because you have 2 carbs. Inspect the floats, usually they are good. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/REPAIR KIT 1/parts.html. #20 + +Same goes for the water pump, however this is considered PM (annually). Check the paper work he gave you to see if a new water pump kit was installed during his servicing. + + + +rips said: + + + + also how much harm is it going to cause that i didnt drain the carb its going to sit for the next 8 weeks + +Click to expand... + + +Nothing to stress over. No damage will be done, 2 months sitting isn't that long. Ethanol 10 sitting in there for months at a time is not good though, even with a fuel stabilizer added, which you should do with every fill up.","rips said: + + + + thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again + +Click to expand... + + +Pulling the carbs for cleaning is not considered PM (preventative maintenance). So unless the previous owner told you carbs were cleaned on such and such year/month, etc, then I was assume they have not been cleaned. Many boat owners who do not service their own engines believe carb cleaning means to spray carb cleaner into the throat while the engine runs. This does nothing. Carbs need to be pulled out, torn apart and inspected. All jets need to soak in carb cleaner or likewise debris breakdown solution. You want to be able to see through each jet. + +A standard carb kit ($86) is what you'll want, x2 because you have 2 carbs. Inspect the floats, usually they are good. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/REPAIR KIT 1/parts.html. #20 + +Same goes for the water pump, however this is considered PM (annually). Check the paper work he gave you to see if a new water pump kit was installed during his servicing. + + + +rips said: + + + + also how much harm is it going to cause that i didnt drain the carb its going to sit for the next 8 weeks + +Click to expand... + + +Nothing to stress over. No damage will be done, 2 months sitting isn't that long. Ethanol 10 sitting in there for months at a time is not good though, even with a fuel stabilizer added, which you should do with every fill up.",I think you will find a vacuum pump with a bleeder bottle more effective than an air compressor for bleeding out the brake lines.... +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs","rips said: + + + + thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again + +Click to expand... + + +Pulling the carbs for cleaning is not considered PM (preventative maintenance). So unless the previous owner told you carbs were cleaned on such and such year/month, etc, then I was assume they have not been cleaned. Many boat owners who do not service their own engines believe carb cleaning means to spray carb cleaner into the throat while the engine runs. This does nothing. Carbs need to be pulled out, torn apart and inspected. All jets need to soak in carb cleaner or likewise debris breakdown solution. You want to be able to see through each jet. + +A standard carb kit ($86) is what you'll want, x2 because you have 2 carbs. Inspect the floats, usually they are good. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/REPAIR KIT 1/parts.html. #20 + +Same goes for the water pump, however this is considered PM (annually). Check the paper work he gave you to see if a new water pump kit was installed during his servicing. + + + + +rips said: + + + + also how much harm is it going to cause that i didnt drain the carb its going to sit for the next 8 weeks + +Click to expand... + + +Nothing to stress over. No damage will be done, 2 months sitting isn't that long. Ethanol 10 sitting in there for months at a time is not good though, even with a fuel stabilizer added, which you should do with every fill up.","rips said: + + + + thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again + +Click to expand... + + +Pulling the carbs for cleaning is not considered PM (preventative maintenance). So unless the previous owner told you carbs were cleaned on such and such year/month, etc, then I was assume they have not been cleaned. Many boat owners who do not service their own engines believe carb cleaning means to spray carb cleaner into the throat while the engine runs. This does nothing. Carbs need to be pulled out, torn apart and inspected. All jets need to soak in carb cleaner or likewise debris breakdown solution. You want to be able to see through each jet. + +A standard carb kit ($86) is what you'll want, x2 because you have 2 carbs. Inspect the floats, usually they are good. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/REPAIR KIT 1/parts.html. #20 + +Same goes for the water pump, however this is considered PM (annually). Check the paper work he gave you to see if a new water pump kit was installed during his servicing. + + + + +rips said: + + + + also how much harm is it going to cause that i didnt drain the carb its going to sit for the next 8 weeks + +Click to expand... + + +Nothing to stress over. No damage will be done, 2 months sitting isn't that long. Ethanol 10 sitting in there for months at a time is not good though, even with a fuel stabilizer added, which you should do with every fill up.","If it is a spun hub, is the prop shot or just replacing the hub itself will suffice?" +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs","excuse my ""noobness"" but i noticed around the internet people talking about similar issues being caused by a clogged VST filter??? Does the motor have both two carbs and a VST filter???","excuse my ""noobness"" but i noticed around the internet people talking about similar issues being caused by a clogged VST filter??? Does the motor have both two carbs and a VST filter???",Can grit imbed in the bunks and scratch the hull? +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs",I don't believe your engine has a VST filter.,I don't believe your engine has a VST filter.,"The problem with the ""ghost filter"" on the fuel pick-up line in the bottom of the tank is you can't suck ALL the fuel out of the tank and even if you could debris that could have been in there since manufacture is going to sit on the bottom. You suck all the fuel out, debris is now sitting on the bottom of the tank. You add new fuel, it gets stirred up again. You start running and the fuel starts being sucked throught that little filter... it clogs up. You shut down, suction falls off, fuel sloshed around in the tank and some of the crap that was clogging the filter falls off... you start running again and after a while the filter clogs up again. No one can figure out what is wrong and it's that $2 ghost filter that never ever should have been placed on the end of that fuel pick-up line. I will be shocked if you don't have one there and when you pull it you don't find it partially clogged. Again... CUT IT OFF AND THROW IT AWAY. DO NOT TRY TO CLEAN IT OR REPLACE IT or you'll have the same problem show up over and over again. Let the large, main in-line filters filter out that debris in the fuel tank as they are much larger and can filter far more debris than one of those little fuel line pick-up filters. + + The bottom line is too many filters are a BAD thing. I've seen some boats that have a pick-up line filter, an inline fuel/water seperator filter, a filter/water seperator filter under the cowling, then another inline filter to the VST tank (which has yet another filter on the botttom of the HP fuel pump which feeds the fuel injectors WHICH HAVE FILTERS IN THEM AS WELL! That's how many filters that can clog and cause problems? WAY TOO MANY! Great for those who sell filters, bad for us who are trying to figure out where the friggin' blockage is!" +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs","so had a friend go open up my cowling, hes saying my motor is direct injected, so from what I have researched that means i have no carbs correct? if this is my plan of action is to clean out the VST, Replace the water/fuel seperator, and check injectors ???","so had a friend go open up my cowling, hes saying my motor is direct injected, so from what I have researched that means i have no carbs correct? if this is my plan of action is to clean out the VST, Replace the water/fuel seperator, and check injectors ???","Evidently I deleted the first paragraph: + +The motor is a 2005 Yamaha f90 4stroke with about 500 hours on it." +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs","rips said: + + + + so had a friend go open up my cowling, hes saying my motor is direct injected, so from what I have researched that means i have no carbs correct? if this is my plan of action is to clean out the VST, Replace the water/fuel seperator, and check injectors ??? + +Click to expand... + + + +Does your engine have a ""F"" located in the model number, like this: F115TLR ? The model number can be found on the port side engine bracket. + +If your model does not have this ""F"", then you have a 2 stroke direct oil injected 115hp engine. You have 2 carbs. + +If your engine is F115TLR then it's a 4 stroke direct fuel injected 115ph engine. No carbs.","rips said: + + + + so had a friend go open up my cowling, hes saying my motor is direct injected, so from what I have researched that means i have no carbs correct? if this is my plan of action is to clean out the VST, Replace the water/fuel seperator, and check injectors ??? + +Click to expand... + + + +Does your engine have a ""F"" located in the model number, like this: F115TLR ? The model number can be found on the port side engine bracket. + +If your model does not have this ""F"", then you have a 2 stroke direct oil injected 115hp engine. You have 2 carbs. + +If your engine is F115TLR then it's a 4 stroke direct fuel injected 115ph engine. No carbs.",2008 yamaha f40bejr is the model. Sorry I should have included that. +"Alright guys, try to make this as brief as possible... purchased a hewes redfisher with 300 hours with a 115hp tlr... first few trips motor ran without a flaw. after that the motor began to not go over 3000 rpm milked the bulb ran just for a bit and then same thing... bulb is brand new, after about 4 squeezes i gets nice and firm, few mins later it feels soft again. i shut off the motor for a while i could smell it flooding, it again ran without a flaw for about 25 mins while we headed back into the dock.....that was the last trip and it will sit for a few months while im deployed first boat no experience really... my initial thought is the fuel pump, i'd like to learn, would hate to send it to a mechanic if i can fix it myself thanks guys for any and all inputs","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Does your engine have a ""F"" located in the model number, like this: F115TLR ? The model number can be found on the port side engine bracket. + +If your model does not have this ""F"", then you have a 2 stroke direct oil injected 115hp engine. You have 2 carbs. + +If your engine is F115TLR then it's a 4 stroke direct fuel injected 115ph engine. No carbs. + +Click to expand... + +Yes sir, sorry for the confusion, its a F115, followed by the serial number and the letter J","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Does your engine have a ""F"" located in the model number, like this: F115TLR ? The model number can be found on the port side engine bracket. + +If your model does not have this ""F"", then you have a 2 stroke direct oil injected 115hp engine. You have 2 carbs. + +If your engine is F115TLR then it's a 4 stroke direct fuel injected 115ph engine. No carbs. + +Click to expand... + +Yes sir, sorry for the confusion, its a F115, followed by the serial number and the letter J","makomark said: + + + + something was binding up.....at least it's resolved!! + +Click to expand... + + +I spoke too soon It seized up again on the water, and needed me pushing with both arms to move the wheel in either direction. + +As I knew that the cable should be good, as it's new, I went ahead and replaced the helm, but the problem is still there! + +Only when the steering cable and the outboard are connected is it stiff. The second that they're disconnected, each element works fine. + +I checked the drag link isn't binding, and it's nice and loose. + +Help!" +"So, my engine is noisy going from N to F and N to R. Not grinding, you have to be deliberate in your shifts... I mean, it ""bumps"" in. Not an issue going back to N. Heard this was common? Just curious, other than this issue, the engine is a stud.","What you're describing sounds normal. If the sound were like a big thud, like you dropped something heavy on the ground, then this would be concerning. Shifting an outboard into gear is not smooth or soundless like an automobile. A bump is ok. But just for the heck of if, check your lower unit oil. If it's milky white you've got problems. If it's brown color you're all good.","What you're describing sounds normal. If the sound were like a big thud, like you dropped something heavy on the ground, then this would be concerning. Shifting an outboard into gear is not smooth or soundless like an automobile. A bump is ok. But just for the heck of if, check your lower unit oil. If it's milky white you've got problems. If it's brown color you're all good.","How was the carburetor cleaned? + +A motor bogging down in usually indicative of insufficient gasoline. Trying misting a bit of gasoline into the air intake just about the time that it would start to bog down. If it picks up and runs that is telling you that the carburetor is not doing its job." +"trolling @ low speed motor wants to shut off or back fire, also spits & sputters. +replaced plugs, cleaned both carbs. when i turned the idle screw ccw , or lower motor speed it ran like a new one for about 2 hrs. Trolling and high speed. then it started to run like crap.","When you ""cleaned carbs""...describe what you did to clean.","When you ""cleaned carbs""...describe what you did to clean.","Ok, let me ask the question in a different way. How can water enter a cylinder if the powerhead was above the water. Can it enter thru the exhaust? If yes, is there anything in that system that could be damaged when I pulled to start the engine. Again, the powerhead remained above the water, the top of the jonboat just below the water and the skeg bottomed out. The boat did not sink, the engine was not immursed." +"I am looking for a wiring diagram for a Yamaha 200 hpdi. Z200txrd I believe , thanks Jon","Found at the back of your service manual. If you don't have one, google your engines model/year and you might get lucky with a free copy of the diagram.","Found at the back of your service manual. If you don't have one, google your engines model/year and you might get lucky with a free copy of the diagram.","I would highly recommend that you post your questions on the iBoats.com forum. It's the absolute best forum on the web for boat repair and restoration. Some of the best Professional boat people hang out on that forum and WILL be MORE than happy to provide you with all answers to your questions. Seeing your pics now, I truly believe your boat is a PRIME Candidate for a Seacast/Nidacore ""Pour In Transom"" There are multiple threads on the iBoats forum that thoroughly discuss this process with pics, videos and discussion from those that have ""Been there and done that. A bit Pricey but one that will Never have to be repeated for the life of the vessel. OH and IMHO cutting the outer skin of the transom to replace it is a Last Ditch method. Yours is NOT that case." +"I have a 1988 50 HP Yamaha 50ESGJD jet tiller that has a blown powerhead (zero compression in middle cylinder) and I got a good deal on a fully dressed 1990 40 HP powerhead 40ETLD. I was wondering if I can literally just swap them out completely? The bottom seal between the two are the same part number therefore should bolt on together. The electrical connections are the same except the wire harness is a different part number. They are the same amount of pin numbers and do connect together. This is a tiller jet model and it appears the throttle and shift linkage are the same as well. + +I know I am losing HP and the intake numbers are different therefore I do not think the carbs will interchange but I will check when I get them apart, if I get that far! + +The main question is the wire harness. I know that is a big question but has anyone done this before? I will not roll the dice in frying the electrical components therefore asking the question here. + +Thank you!",Does anyone know if the ignition parts are the same for the tiller controlled motors between 1988 and 1990?,Does anyone know if the ignition parts are the same for the tiller controlled motors between 1988 and 1990?,"Thanks for the reply boscoe. + +The motor seems to run fine. No blowby and doesn't consume oil. The gauges are not calibrated. I use an OTC 5605 compression test kit and an OTC 5609 leakage test kit which are DIY test kits. + +I decided to pop the flywheel to check the crankshaft timing mark against the cam pulleys and it was off a couple teeth. I made sure they were set correctly and checked the carb sync which was off, so I resync'ed the carbs. Then I set the TPS to the correct voltage at 900 RPM and took it out for a run. + +It runs good, accelerates and decels properly. It's on a 25ft pontoon boat. It was too windy and choppy to open it up to full throttle, but ran without any issues to around 4000-4500 RPM. Have to wait for a better day to give it a good long run at different RPMs and see how it performs. + +I just bought the boat a month ago. I know the previous owner only used regular Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. I was thinking of putting some hours on it with a tank of enriched ring free plus and stabil marine, and then rechecking the compression and leakage. It may be okay. I just didn't want to risk blowing the motor if there was something that need to be addressed now. + +Thanks Again, +Bob" +"Heres the issue. I fished all day no problems. Tied up at the dock to load. Cranked the motor went to put it in forward and the lever wont move. Put it in reverse to tie back up to the dock and it goes in reverse perfectly. Checked all the linkages and they seem to be solid. is there a part or something in the control box that could have broke to get in the way of the forward gear lever? I tried reverse numerous times and worked every time it just wont go into forward. By wont go into forward I mean I pull the release button and the lever wont even move forward. It will go in reverse every time. But if you are in neutral the lever will not go forward. + +Motor is a 1993 Yamaha 40 HP 2troke.","Treetime said: + + + + Heres the issue. I fished all day no problems. Tied up at the dock to load. Cranked the motor went to put it in forward and the lever wont move. Put it in reverse to tie back up to the dock and it goes in reverse perfectly. Checked all the linkages and they seem to be solid. is there a part or something in the control box that could have broke to get in the way of the forward gear lever? I tried reverse numerous times and worked every time it just wont go into forward. By wont go into forward I mean I pull the release button and the lever wont even move forward. It will go in reverse every time. But if you are in neutral the lever will not go forward. + +Motor is a 1993 Yamaha 40 HP 2troke. + +Click to expand... + + + +Process of elimination I have narrowed it down to the foot. If I take everything loose it will engage all the way to the linkage adjustment above the foot. Take the foot off and it will go in neutral and reverse but in forward it only makes clicking noises but don't engage. Controls are back to working properly though. Now to figure out whats wrong with this foot.","Treetime said: + + + + Heres the issue. I fished all day no problems. Tied up at the dock to load. Cranked the motor went to put it in forward and the lever wont move. Put it in reverse to tie back up to the dock and it goes in reverse perfectly. Checked all the linkages and they seem to be solid. is there a part or something in the control box that could have broke to get in the way of the forward gear lever? I tried reverse numerous times and worked every time it just wont go into forward. By wont go into forward I mean I pull the release button and the lever wont even move forward. It will go in reverse every time. But if you are in neutral the lever will not go forward. + +Motor is a 1993 Yamaha 40 HP 2troke. + +Click to expand... + + + +Process of elimination I have narrowed it down to the foot. If I take everything loose it will engage all the way to the linkage adjustment above the foot. Take the foot off and it will go in neutral and reverse but in forward it only makes clicking noises but don't engage. Controls are back to working properly though. Now to figure out whats wrong with this foot.","It's hard to judge the length you will need from the pictures. You will want to be able to easily clear at least 90 degrees off perpendicular from the hitch. If I recall correctly, those U-Haul hitches are tucked in real close to the back bumper." +"Heres the issue. I fished all day no problems. Tied up at the dock to load. Cranked the motor went to put it in forward and the lever wont move. Put it in reverse to tie back up to the dock and it goes in reverse perfectly. Checked all the linkages and they seem to be solid. is there a part or something in the control box that could have broke to get in the way of the forward gear lever? I tried reverse numerous times and worked every time it just wont go into forward. By wont go into forward I mean I pull the release button and the lever wont even move forward. It will go in reverse every time. But if you are in neutral the lever will not go forward. + +Motor is a 1993 Yamaha 40 HP 2troke.","Disconnect control cable at engine and see if you can do it manually,if it shifts then,everything points to the control box","Disconnect control cable at engine and see if you can do it manually,if it shifts then,everything points to the control box","Grinder said: + + + + Hello everyone! + +After I've been searching for this manual for over a week now, I came over this forum in one of my searches. I've just registered as a user on this forum, and this is my first post. + + + + + +I've just bought a used Skanti VHF 3000, Type ""TRP 3024"". Unfortunately this VHF came without cables and without a manual. Something the seller didn't have. I'm looking for a manual to this VHF or someone who has knowledge on how I should wire it up. + + + + + + +I have the power cable to the VHF, as you can see on the picture. And I have half the cable that goes from REMOTE and to the handset. Unfortunately there is only a plug in one end of the cable, so I would need to find me a new plug. The plug would probably be OK to find, but I don't know the configuration of the 7 wires. + + + + + + +I'm also missing both the plug and the cable from ""Auxilliary"". According to the seller, this cable should go to the external speaker. The plug should be OK to get, but then I'm still missing the wiring configuration. + + + + + + +As you can see on the picture above, there is two sockets on the handset. One market with ""in"" and one with ""out"". I guess the cable from ""remote"" on the main unit should go to the ""in"" on the handset. Do anyone know what the ""out"" socket is for? + +If anyone could help me with some guidelines, wiring diagrams or manuals I would appreciate it very much + +Click to expand... + +I think I may have what you are looking for. I have a manual and “connecting transceiver unit and control unit” instructions." +"Heres the issue. I fished all day no problems. Tied up at the dock to load. Cranked the motor went to put it in forward and the lever wont move. Put it in reverse to tie back up to the dock and it goes in reverse perfectly. Checked all the linkages and they seem to be solid. is there a part or something in the control box that could have broke to get in the way of the forward gear lever? I tried reverse numerous times and worked every time it just wont go into forward. By wont go into forward I mean I pull the release button and the lever wont even move forward. It will go in reverse every time. But if you are in neutral the lever will not go forward. + +Motor is a 1993 Yamaha 40 HP 2troke.",i have the sane problem only it won't go into reverse....hello every one I'm new just sign up tonight...i have an old Yamaha 1985 4 stroke 9.9 hp....just order a manual..so i hope that corrects some of the problems. thanks Mark,i have the sane problem only it won't go into reverse....hello every one I'm new just sign up tonight...i have an old Yamaha 1985 4 stroke 9.9 hp....just order a manual..so i hope that corrects some of the problems. thanks Mark,"Correct. You need to look at the axle travel and make sure it cannot contact the hull when the springs are fully compressed. + +Where you launch your boat, is it just not deep enough at all or is just not deep as far back as you can get your tow vehicle? If there is deeper water further down the ramp you could have a fabrication shop add an extension to the trailer tongue. That would keep your tow vehicle out of the water but get the trailer deep enough to float the boat." +"Heres the issue. I fished all day no problems. Tied up at the dock to load. Cranked the motor went to put it in forward and the lever wont move. Put it in reverse to tie back up to the dock and it goes in reverse perfectly. Checked all the linkages and they seem to be solid. is there a part or something in the control box that could have broke to get in the way of the forward gear lever? I tried reverse numerous times and worked every time it just wont go into forward. By wont go into forward I mean I pull the release button and the lever wont even move forward. It will go in reverse every time. But if you are in neutral the lever will not go forward. + +Motor is a 1993 Yamaha 40 HP 2troke.",UPDATE: Who knows? Took it all the way down and back together still wouldn't work. Took it to the repair shop. He tore it down replaced the impeller and foot oil for regular servicing. Put everything back together and now it works fine.....?????? Cant explain it. Mechanic cant either. Guess we will see what happens from here.,UPDATE: Who knows? Took it all the way down and back together still wouldn't work. Took it to the repair shop. He tore it down replaced the impeller and foot oil for regular servicing. Put everything back together and now it works fine.....?????? Cant explain it. Mechanic cant either. Guess we will see what happens from here.,"Had a good trip from to Catalina Sunday. A little frustration at the launch ramp. Port motor started right up, that's the one that has the problems. Starboard wouldn't start, not even turn over. After cussing on it, and that didn't fix it, I took truck/boat to back end of launch area. Worked on it for almost 3 hours before I figured out one fo the two paraled batteries connections wasn't connected. My guess is that the mechanic had to take the battery set-up apart to get the new rigging harness and didn't but it back. Between that and me cleaning up all electrical connections, it was good to go. By then the wind/chop picked up so it was a good test. Had to adjuct friction of throttles on the water, which worked out okay as well. Hope the intermittent issue has been finally solved." +"Heres the issue. I fished all day no problems. Tied up at the dock to load. Cranked the motor went to put it in forward and the lever wont move. Put it in reverse to tie back up to the dock and it goes in reverse perfectly. Checked all the linkages and they seem to be solid. is there a part or something in the control box that could have broke to get in the way of the forward gear lever? I tried reverse numerous times and worked every time it just wont go into forward. By wont go into forward I mean I pull the release button and the lever wont even move forward. It will go in reverse every time. But if you are in neutral the lever will not go forward. + +Motor is a 1993 Yamaha 40 HP 2troke.","Treetime said: + + + + By wont go into forward I mean I pull the release button and the lever wont even move forward. It will go in reverse every time. But if you are in neutral the lever will not go forward. + +Click to expand... + + + +If your control has the push or pull neutral throttle control, and you engage this and the throttle lever does not move forward....this would exclude the lower unit as being the problem. The neutral control button/lever when engaged merely opens or closes the carb intake valves. + +The oil servicing of the lower unit would not be what ""fixed"" the issue. If lack of lubrication was the issue then the reverse gear would also not engage. And of course the water pump has nothing to do with what the control box is doing. So sounds like the issue isn't solved, just hiding. It's pretty simple to open up the control box. Start with the lever. Inside the lever is where the T/T wiring wraps around the base of the lever before it ducks into the control. If somehow the wires wedged under the lever it would prevent the throttle lever from moving.","Treetime said: + + + + By wont go into forward I mean I pull the release button and the lever wont even move forward. It will go in reverse every time. But if you are in neutral the lever will not go forward. + +Click to expand... + + + +If your control has the push or pull neutral throttle control, and you engage this and the throttle lever does not move forward....this would exclude the lower unit as being the problem. The neutral control button/lever when engaged merely opens or closes the carb intake valves. + +The oil servicing of the lower unit would not be what ""fixed"" the issue. If lack of lubrication was the issue then the reverse gear would also not engage. And of course the water pump has nothing to do with what the control box is doing. So sounds like the issue isn't solved, just hiding. It's pretty simple to open up the control box. Start with the lever. Inside the lever is where the T/T wiring wraps around the base of the lever before it ducks into the control. If somehow the wires wedged under the lever it would prevent the throttle lever from moving.","papyson said: + + + +i think if you have gone to the expense of engine(s) rebuild i would just bite the bullet and go with new tank(s).....and hoses.... ethanol is a better cleaner than non ethanol and the tank cleaning job would have to be perfect or with time the ethanol will break crud loose..just my opinion but i just went thru this with a new 4 cycle outboard.. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Agreed,.... Aluminum tanks are Ok, but corrode,... + +I buy nothin' but Plastic now a days,... + +Check out these guys,...." +Just got boat and still learning was out fishing last night and when we went to leave the tilt n trim had no power from anywhere in boat so couldn't get on plane and had to go slow to get in...now this morning took volt meter down to check and tilt n trim works again from all areas of boat..is there a breaker that reset itself overnight,"Just to be clear, when you could not tilt/trim using control you also could not from engine side switch? If this is correct, and you now have power to control switch, check each wire engine side with meter. Possibly a bad ground on its way of become a dead ground.","Just to be clear, when you could not tilt/trim using control you also could not from engine side switch? If this is correct, and you now have power to control switch, check each wire engine side with meter. Possibly a bad ground on its way of become a dead ground.","That is the correct manual. Page 3-5 depicts the check, and if needed, the adjustment procedure. + +Are you saying that the illustration in the manual does not agree with what the motor looks like?" +Just got boat and still learning was out fishing last night and when we went to leave the tilt n trim had no power from anywhere in boat so couldn't get on plane and had to go slow to get in...now this morning took volt meter down to check and tilt n trim works again from all areas of boat..is there a breaker that reset itself overnight,My Yamaha 90 4 stroke engine is stuck down. Trying to raise it manually by releasing the manual release screw is no help. Any suggestions. Tilt and trim needs replacing.,My Yamaha 90 4 stroke engine is stuck down. Trying to raise it manually by releasing the manual release screw is no help. Any suggestions. Tilt and trim needs replacing.,"Most likely, the problem is in the mic. How old is that radio? If it is more than 10 years old you should get a new one anyway because all the new ones have the DSC function ((Digital Selective Calling) installed. When hooked up to your GPS (via NMEA 0183 or NMEA 2000) that will provide your exact location to the Coast Guard when the distress switch is activated." +Just got boat and still learning was out fishing last night and when we went to leave the tilt n trim had no power from anywhere in boat so couldn't get on plane and had to go slow to get in...now this morning took volt meter down to check and tilt n trim works again from all areas of boat..is there a breaker that reset itself overnight,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + Just to be clear, when you could not tilt/trim using control you also could not from engine side switch? If this is correct, and you now have power to control switch, check each wire engine side with meter. Possibly a bad ground on its way of become a dead ground. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes I had no power from the helm or the side of engine and then in morning went to try it and motor went up and down perfectly from helm and from engine..","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Just to be clear, when you could not tilt/trim using control you also could not from engine side switch? If this is correct, and you now have power to control switch, check each wire engine side with meter. Possibly a bad ground on its way of become a dead ground. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes I had no power from the helm or the side of engine and then in morning went to try it and motor went up and down perfectly from helm and from engine..","Thank you so much dude!!! +I just flipped the 3rd switch and now the warnings are gone!" +Just got boat and still learning was out fishing last night and when we went to leave the tilt n trim had no power from anywhere in boat so couldn't get on plane and had to go slow to get in...now this morning took volt meter down to check and tilt n trim works again from all areas of boat..is there a breaker that reset itself overnight,"Loehning said: + + + + Yes I had no power from the helm or the side of engine and then in morning went to try it and motor went up and down perfectly from helm and from engine.. + +Click to expand... + + +Sounds like you've got a wire going bad. Since the engines switch didn't work you can skip meter testing from control to ignition. Volt drop test from from ignition to engine switch. Most likely a bad ground.","Loehning said: + + + + Yes I had no power from the helm or the side of engine and then in morning went to try it and motor went up and down perfectly from helm and from engine.. + +Click to expand... + + +Sounds like you've got a wire going bad. Since the engines switch didn't work you can skip meter testing from control to ignition. Volt drop test from from ignition to engine switch. Most likely a bad ground.","Sure, just don't expect it to hold up very well. As with most things, you get what you pay for." +Just got boat and still learning was out fishing last night and when we went to leave the tilt n trim had no power from anywhere in boat so couldn't get on plane and had to go slow to get in...now this morning took volt meter down to check and tilt n trim works again from all areas of boat..is there a breaker that reset itself overnight,"Larry Am said: + + + + My Yamaha 90 4 stroke engine is stuck down. Trying to raise it manually by releasing the manual release screw is no help. Any suggestions. Tilt and trim needs replacing. + +Click to expand... + +Why is the manual screw no help?","Larry Am said: + + + + My Yamaha 90 4 stroke engine is stuck down. Trying to raise it manually by releasing the manual release screw is no help. Any suggestions. Tilt and trim needs replacing. + +Click to expand... + +Why is the manual screw no help?","I think you can find schools with certification from Yamaha and see if there are any external courses. American imperialism, although an extremely interesting phenomenon that brought a lot of things to the country, but even here it's hard to find what you need sometimes. I wrote an essay like this that you can look here about sundowning. So if you need courses look up your county." +Just got boat and still learning was out fishing last night and when we went to leave the tilt n trim had no power from anywhere in boat so couldn't get on plane and had to go slow to get in...now this morning took volt meter down to check and tilt n trim works again from all areas of boat..is there a breaker that reset itself overnight,I have turned the screw and still cannot lift the motor manually.,I have turned the screw and still cannot lift the motor manually.,"makomark said: + + + + The initial approach is to call Skeeter and talk with their tech support department - there may be a subassembly that isn't 'easy to see' that may make life easier....either to remove the existing fitting or to R&R the tank for the work. + +If that doesn't pan out, you need access to the top of the tank and an inspection port may be adequate to provide the required access. I'd focus on removing the old pickup and installing a new one vs adding another hole in the tank. + +Click to expand... + + +makomark, +Thank you for the reply. I did reach out to Skeeter toward the end of last year via their support channels on their website and forgot doing so, however I never received a response. I will definitely reach out to them again before proceeding, perhaps I can dig up a support phone number. + +As for removing the existing pickup, are there any methods of loosening the corrosion that will not risk damaging the structure of the poly tank?" +Just got boat and still learning was out fishing last night and when we went to leave the tilt n trim had no power from anywhere in boat so couldn't get on plane and had to go slow to get in...now this morning took volt meter down to check and tilt n trim works again from all areas of boat..is there a breaker that reset itself overnight,Turn screw counter clockwise until it stops. Then engine will move freely up/down. Turn screw clockwise to lock into desired position.,Turn screw counter clockwise until it stops. Then engine will move freely up/down. Turn screw clockwise to lock into desired position.,"Could this be a result of the thermostat sticking, or are there other possible causes?" +Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle,"tileslayer said: + + + + Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle + +Click to expand... + + +Your words above in bold are a good indication of where the most likely problem is located...the fuel pump. Depending on how you store your outboard, the only time when priming the engine is needed is during a cold start (1st start of the day). With a healthy fuel pump, no matter how many times you start and cut engine you should not need to re-prime engine after initial cold start. + +See schematic below of your fuel pump, located center right in picture. Dismount the pump and check for leaks. If you've got a friend nearby, have them squeeze primer bulb as you look at fuel pump for leaks. If it leaks, replace it with a new fuel pump. + +If no visible leak is seen, re-mount fuel pump. Take the boat back out on the water and run it. When it starts running rough, feel the primer bulb with your hand. You should feel flow running through the bulb as the engine is running. If the bulb is collapsing, that's indication #1 of a bad fuel pump. + +If the bulb did collapse, now you'll get the engine started and run it again. But this time keep your hand on the primer bulb and don't let it collapse. As the engine continues to run, you prime the bulb keeping it tight (don't over prime, just till bulb is tight). Keep repeating this for a few minutes as the engine runs in the mid rpms. If the engine continues to run, that's indication #2 of a bad fuel pump. And you don't need a #3 to complete this troubleshooting. It's a bad fuel pump. Replace. Luckily they're not expensive.","tileslayer said: + + + + Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle + +Click to expand... + + +Your words above in bold are a good indication of where the most likely problem is located...the fuel pump. Depending on how you store your outboard, the only time when priming the engine is needed is during a cold start (1st start of the day). With a healthy fuel pump, no matter how many times you start and cut engine you should not need to re-prime engine after initial cold start. + +See schematic below of your fuel pump, located center right in picture. Dismount the pump and check for leaks. If you've got a friend nearby, have them squeeze primer bulb as you look at fuel pump for leaks. If it leaks, replace it with a new fuel pump. + +If no visible leak is seen, re-mount fuel pump. Take the boat back out on the water and run it. When it starts running rough, feel the primer bulb with your hand. You should feel flow running through the bulb as the engine is running. If the bulb is collapsing, that's indication #1 of a bad fuel pump. + +If the bulb did collapse, now you'll get the engine started and run it again. But this time keep your hand on the primer bulb and don't let it collapse. As the engine continues to run, you prime the bulb keeping it tight (don't over prime, just till bulb is tight). Keep repeating this for a few minutes as the engine runs in the mid rpms. If the engine continues to run, that's indication #2 of a bad fuel pump. And you don't need a #3 to complete this troubleshooting. It's a bad fuel pump. Replace. Luckily they're not expensive.","OK so we tried to take off the flywheel - absolutely no way, to me it looks as if the nut hodling it down is fused onto the shaft, I do not think anyone has ever removed that nut since 2002 in some factory in Japan when the motor was built. Strangely I also paid a hefty sum two years ago to have the timing belt replaced, may be he replaced it without removing the flywheel... + +The next step inserted the multimeter on the connector that connects the stator to the regulator (it was three wires I hope it was that) and measured AC voltage while cranking the engine. On 2 or 3 combinations (the connector has 3 wires) it read 5-6V AC while cranking. I took that to mean that the stator is producing some voltage and has not melted. + +I also measured on the wires leading to the coils and saw no voltage so the fault must be the CDI. + +Unfortunately the CDI seems to be outrageously expensive in Greece and must be brought in from abroad (no idea where) and costs something like $1000 whereas on US web sites the part is listed at around $340. + +One problem is that the US sites do not list my type of engine, mine is a F80AET and the US sites list a slightly different designation. + +Therefore the rectifier is 67F-81960-12 and on the US sites it is 67F-81960-12-00 - this looks the same so so far so good. + +On the CDI the part is 67F-85540-01 and on the US sites it is 67F-85540-03-00 - this looks to be slighly different." +Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle,"tileslayer said: + + + + Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle + +Click to expand... + + +Your words above in bold are a good indication of where the most likely problem is located...the fuel pump. Depending on how you store your outboard, the only time when priming the engine is needed is during a cold start (1st start of the day). With a healthy fuel pump, no matter how many times you start and cut engine you should not need to re-prime engine after initial cold start. + +See schematic below of your fuel pump, located center right in picture. Dismount the pump and check for leaks. If you've got a friend nearby, have them squeeze primer bulb as you look at fuel pump for leaks. If it leaks, replace it with a new fuel pump. + +If no visible leak is seen, re-mount fuel pump. Take the boat back out on the water and run it. When it starts running rough, feel the primer bulb with your hand. You should feel flow running through the bulb as the engine is running. If the bulb is collapsing, that's indication #1 of a bad fuel pump. + +If the bulb did collapse, now you'll get the engine started and run it again. But this time keep your hand on the primer bulb and don't let it collapse. As the engine continues to run, you prime the bulb keeping it tight (don't over prime, just till bulb is tight). Keep repeating this for a few minutes as the engine runs in the mid rpms. If the engine continues to run, that's indication #2 of a bad fuel pump. And you don't need a #3 to complete this troubleshooting. It's a bad fuel pump. Replace. Luckily they're not expensive. + + +View attachment 15524","tileslayer said: + + + + Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle + +Click to expand... + + +Your words above in bold are a good indication of where the most likely problem is located...the fuel pump. Depending on how you store your outboard, the only time when priming the engine is needed is during a cold start (1st start of the day). With a healthy fuel pump, no matter how many times you start and cut engine you should not need to re-prime engine after initial cold start. + +See schematic below of your fuel pump, located center right in picture. Dismount the pump and check for leaks. If you've got a friend nearby, have them squeeze primer bulb as you look at fuel pump for leaks. If it leaks, replace it with a new fuel pump. + +If no visible leak is seen, re-mount fuel pump. Take the boat back out on the water and run it. When it starts running rough, feel the primer bulb with your hand. You should feel flow running through the bulb as the engine is running. If the bulb is collapsing, that's indication #1 of a bad fuel pump. + +If the bulb did collapse, now you'll get the engine started and run it again. But this time keep your hand on the primer bulb and don't let it collapse. As the engine continues to run, you prime the bulb keeping it tight (don't over prime, just till bulb is tight). Keep repeating this for a few minutes as the engine runs in the mid rpms. If the engine continues to run, that's indication #2 of a bad fuel pump. And you don't need a #3 to complete this troubleshooting. It's a bad fuel pump. Replace. Luckily they're not expensive. + + +View attachment 15524","Have you thought about using Seacast to redo your transom or have you already started with the wood core? +If you have gone with wood then the post from lonestarflamingo is pretty good way to do it. +Less trouble to put in a Seacast replacement core and it will never give you a problem like the wood will. +thanks for the time" +Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle,"tileslayer said: + + + + Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle + +Click to expand... + + +Your words above in bold are a good indication of where the most likely problem is located...the fuel pump. Depending on how you store your outboard, the only time when priming the engine is needed is during a cold start (1st start of the day). With a healthy fuel pump, no matter how many times you start and cut engine you should not need to re-prime engine after initial cold start. + +See schematic below of your fuel pump, located center right in picture. Dismount the pump and check for leaks. If you've got a friend nearby, have them squeeze primer bulb as you look at fuel pump for leaks. If it leaks, replace it with a new fuel pump. + +If no visible leak is seen, re-mount fuel pump. Take the boat back out on the water and run it. When it starts running rough, feel the primer bulb with your hand. You should feel flow running through the bulb as the engine is running. If the bulb is collapsing, that's indication #1 of a bad fuel pump. + +If the bulb did collapse, now you'll get the engine started and run it again. But this time keep your hand on the primer bulb and don't let it collapse. As the engine continues to run, you prime the bulb keeping it tight (don't over prime, just till bulb is tight). Keep repeating this for a few minutes as the engine runs in the mid rpms. If the engine continues to run, that's indication #2 of a bad fuel pump. And you don't need a #3 to complete this troubleshooting. It's a bad fuel pump. Replace. Luckily they're not expensive.","tileslayer said: + + + + Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle + +Click to expand... + + +Your words above in bold are a good indication of where the most likely problem is located...the fuel pump. Depending on how you store your outboard, the only time when priming the engine is needed is during a cold start (1st start of the day). With a healthy fuel pump, no matter how many times you start and cut engine you should not need to re-prime engine after initial cold start. + +See schematic below of your fuel pump, located center right in picture. Dismount the pump and check for leaks. If you've got a friend nearby, have them squeeze primer bulb as you look at fuel pump for leaks. If it leaks, replace it with a new fuel pump. + +If no visible leak is seen, re-mount fuel pump. Take the boat back out on the water and run it. When it starts running rough, feel the primer bulb with your hand. You should feel flow running through the bulb as the engine is running. If the bulb is collapsing, that's indication #1 of a bad fuel pump. + +If the bulb did collapse, now you'll get the engine started and run it again. But this time keep your hand on the primer bulb and don't let it collapse. As the engine continues to run, you prime the bulb keeping it tight (don't over prime, just till bulb is tight). Keep repeating this for a few minutes as the engine runs in the mid rpms. If the engine continues to run, that's indication #2 of a bad fuel pump. And you don't need a #3 to complete this troubleshooting. It's a bad fuel pump. Replace. Luckily they're not expensive.","Ayuh,.... Painting galvanized things stops the galvanized protection... + +Leavin' 'em be, is the best protection..." +Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle,Sounds fuel pump related if your having to continuously prime to keep engine running. Primer buld should not collapse while the engine is running.,Sounds fuel pump related if your having to continuously prime to keep engine running. Primer buld should not collapse while the engine is running.,"Hello, + +Smith's clear penetrating epoxy sealer (CPES) I use it for everything! Paint, varnish, etc. + +http://www.smithandcompany.org/" +"Guys, I am new to the forum and looking for some help. I have a 2005 Yamaha F200 4 stroke with 198 hours on it. I was having trouble with the tilt/trim switch on the motor and ordered a replacement. I was tinkering with the switch and then there was no power to the engine. I cannot get any power to start or trim from the throttle. Is there an in line fuse or relay I can check? The boat is a 2007 Skeeter zx22V in great shape. Any help would be appreciated...",Is your emergency kill lanyard in place and seated properly? Try taking it off and and putting it on a few times. Make sure it is in place properly. I seen plenty of people tear everything apart only to find that kill switch was tripped.,Is your emergency kill lanyard in place and seated properly? Try taking it off and and putting it on a few times. Make sure it is in place properly. I seen plenty of people tear everything apart only to find that kill switch was tripped.,"Agree with Kevin. Trim limit switch is likely culprit. Way back when I owned a Penta, I got most of my parts off e-bay, since new ones were out-of-sight expensive." +"Guys, I am new to the forum and looking for some help. I have a 2005 Yamaha F200 4 stroke with 198 hours on it. I was having trouble with the tilt/trim switch on the motor and ordered a replacement. I was tinkering with the switch and then there was no power to the engine. I cannot get any power to start or trim from the throttle. Is there an in line fuse or relay I can check? The boat is a 2007 Skeeter zx22V in great shape. Any help would be appreciated...",The kill switch does not prevent you from operating the trim/tilt unit. There is no inline fuse from battery to motor either. Just 2 THICK cables from the battery to the motor. Check to make sure you have power to the motor by turning the key. If you do this will verify that your battery connection to the motor is good. Next you want to check is the connetion at the controller is plug in for the trim/tilt unit. If that checks out then check you have power to the trim/tilt relays. If you have power to the relay then check the switch itself. GL,The kill switch does not prevent you from operating the trim/tilt unit. There is no inline fuse from battery to motor either. Just 2 THICK cables from the battery to the motor. Check to make sure you have power to the motor by turning the key. If you do this will verify that your battery connection to the motor is good. Next you want to check is the connetion at the controller is plug in for the trim/tilt unit. If that checks out then check you have power to the trim/tilt relays. If you have power to the relay then check the switch itself. GL,no rocket science here. any 6/32 screw below the deck into aluminum will shear. One thing i have NOT figured out is how to put in the little faces in the message! +"Guys, I am new to the forum and looking for some help. I have a 2005 Yamaha F200 4 stroke with 198 hours on it. I was having trouble with the tilt/trim switch on the motor and ordered a replacement. I was tinkering with the switch and then there was no power to the engine. I cannot get any power to start or trim from the throttle. Is there an in line fuse or relay I can check? The boat is a 2007 Skeeter zx22V in great shape. Any help would be appreciated...","Here is a good Yamaha parts diagram for your motor at PartsPak.com. + +http://www.partspak.com/ProductCart...TBOARD_MOTORS)/ELECTRICAL_2_(F200TXRD_-_2005) + +Just check power going in and coming out of the relays. This will help you determine if you have a lack of power or a bad relay. If you have over 12 volts DC coming out of the relay, you may have a bad electric motor.","Here is a good Yamaha parts diagram for your motor at PartsPak.com. + +http://www.partspak.com/ProductCart...TBOARD_MOTORS)/ELECTRICAL_2_(F200TXRD_-_2005) + +Just check power going in and coming out of the relays. This will help you determine if you have a lack of power or a bad relay. If you have over 12 volts DC coming out of the relay, you may have a bad electric motor.",It's been over a year or 2 since it was ran +"Guys, I am new to the forum and looking for some help. I have a 2005 Yamaha F200 4 stroke with 198 hours on it. I was having trouble with the tilt/trim switch on the motor and ordered a replacement. I was tinkering with the switch and then there was no power to the engine. I cannot get any power to start or trim from the throttle. Is there an in line fuse or relay I can check? The boat is a 2007 Skeeter zx22V in great shape. Any help would be appreciated...",I am having this same problem and just wondering if anyone ever figured this one out? this is quite a pain in the back side.,I am having this same problem and just wondering if anyone ever figured this one out? this is quite a pain in the back side.,"""Poly"" bilge pump hose is typically used as it is relatively 'cheap'....trident makes good hose and you should get 20 years out of it as long as it is installed and supported correctly...but it will be with a much bigger bill...." +"Guys, I am new to the forum and looking for some help. I have a 2005 Yamaha F200 4 stroke with 198 hours on it. I was having trouble with the tilt/trim switch on the motor and ordered a replacement. I was tinkering with the switch and then there was no power to the engine. I cannot get any power to start or trim from the throttle. Is there an in line fuse or relay I can check? The boat is a 2007 Skeeter zx22V in great shape. Any help would be appreciated...",I just got a 2005 200f Yamaha 4 stroke and last night out fishing the tilt n trim had no power from anywhere in the boat so we had to go slow to get in as we couldn't get on plane..now when I went down to boat this morning to check the relay the tilt and trim works fine now..my question is there a breaker that reset itself after time..,I just got a 2005 200f Yamaha 4 stroke and last night out fishing the tilt n trim had no power from anywhere in the boat so we had to go slow to get in as we couldn't get on plane..now when I went down to boat this morning to check the relay the tilt and trim works fine now..my question is there a breaker that reset itself after time..,"Distortion of the plastic around the sending unit hole not allowing gasket to seal adequately.What can I use to seal the gasket plastic interface!!!! + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... A New tank comes to mind...." +"I've got a 2000 F25 that stumbles or quits when advancing the throttle. I've pulled the carb off and cleaned the pilot jet #50 and the main jet #108 and the internals and put it in an ultra sonic cleaner at 140 degrees for 45 minutes. Still does the same thing. + +Starts great and idles great. NO water in the fuel. Fuel pump works good. + +If I put it in gear and quickly open the throttle while holding three fingers over the air intake it winds right up. If I don't put my fingers over the intake it falls on its nose and quits. + +Any ideas. New carb? This thing is a real challenge.","ram95 said: + + + + If I put it in gear and quickly open the throttle while holding three fingers over the air intake it winds right up. If I don't put my fingers over the intake it falls on its nose and quits. + +Click to expand... + + +Citing your statement above...when you cover the air intake you richen the mix (more fuel, less air), and the motor responds. I'm not familiar with your carb, but I recon it should have a idle mix screw. This screw has a specific ""turn out"" spec. This spec is found in your service manual. + +With the engine off, turn in the screw gently until it seats. Note the number of turns. Let's say it took 1 full turn in to seat. Then turn out the screw 3/4. Start engine and see how it responds. The more you turn in the screw the more you richen the mix. Just like putting your hand over the intake, except more precise of course. Make your adjustments to the idle mix screw small, 1/4 turns at a time.","ram95 said: + + + + If I put it in gear and quickly open the throttle while holding three fingers over the air intake it winds right up. If I don't put my fingers over the intake it falls on its nose and quits. + +Click to expand... + + +Citing your statement above...when you cover the air intake you richen the mix (more fuel, less air), and the motor responds. I'm not familiar with your carb, but I recon it should have a idle mix screw. This screw has a specific ""turn out"" spec. This spec is found in your service manual. + +With the engine off, turn in the screw gently until it seats. Note the number of turns. Let's say it took 1 full turn in to seat. Then turn out the screw 3/4. Start engine and see how it responds. The more you turn in the screw the more you richen the mix. Just like putting your hand over the intake, except more precise of course. Make your adjustments to the idle mix screw small, 1/4 turns at a time.","Seacrest said: + + + + When I put the meter on it, it shows a circuit however when I put a globe in, it +does not work and the circuit then shows nothing on the multimeter. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Ya got any Jumper Cables,..?? + +If so, hook 1 side of 'em to shiny metal on the trailer, 'n the other end on shiny metal on the tow unit's frame,..... + +I bet the lights will work,...." +"I've got a 2000 F25 that stumbles or quits when advancing the throttle. I've pulled the carb off and cleaned the pilot jet #50 and the main jet #108 and the internals and put it in an ultra sonic cleaner at 140 degrees for 45 minutes. Still does the same thing. + +Starts great and idles great. NO water in the fuel. Fuel pump works good. + +If I put it in gear and quickly open the throttle while holding three fingers over the air intake it winds right up. If I don't put my fingers over the intake it falls on its nose and quits. + +Any ideas. New carb? This thing is a real challenge.","You're correct. However, this carb does not have a mixture screw. But, thank you for sharing in my (misery) frustration. At least the carb is easy to remove and disassemble. I have some jet reamers and reamed out the pilot jet which did seem to improve things a tad, without upsetting starting or idle. So now, I will remove the carb once again. This time I will pressurize the float bowl with a squeeze bulb and actuate the throttle accel pump and try to see where it squirts fuel (if it squirts fuel.. which I assume it should) since I previously cleaned everything and the little piston & ck balls seem free.","You're correct. However, this carb does not have a mixture screw. But, thank you for sharing in my (misery) frustration. At least the carb is easy to remove and disassemble. I have some jet reamers and reamed out the pilot jet which did seem to improve things a tad, without upsetting starting or idle. So now, I will remove the carb once again. This time I will pressurize the float bowl with a squeeze bulb and actuate the throttle accel pump and try to see where it squirts fuel (if it squirts fuel.. which I assume it should) since I previously cleaned everything and the little piston & ck balls seem free.",Checked the gear oil ? +"I've got a 2000 F25 that stumbles or quits when advancing the throttle. I've pulled the carb off and cleaned the pilot jet #50 and the main jet #108 and the internals and put it in an ultra sonic cleaner at 140 degrees for 45 minutes. Still does the same thing. + +Starts great and idles great. NO water in the fuel. Fuel pump works good. + +If I put it in gear and quickly open the throttle while holding three fingers over the air intake it winds right up. If I don't put my fingers over the intake it falls on its nose and quits. + +Any ideas. New carb? This thing is a real challenge.",You'll definitely want to be able to see through each jet after cleaning. Doesn't take much debris to clog their orifice.,You'll definitely want to be able to see through each jet after cleaning. Doesn't take much debris to clog their orifice.,"Ayuh,.... You'll get better answers if ya post in the Johnson/ Evinrude Outboard forum" +"I've got a 2000 F25 that stumbles or quits when advancing the throttle. I've pulled the carb off and cleaned the pilot jet #50 and the main jet #108 and the internals and put it in an ultra sonic cleaner at 140 degrees for 45 minutes. Still does the same thing. + +Starts great and idles great. NO water in the fuel. Fuel pump works good. + +If I put it in gear and quickly open the throttle while holding three fingers over the air intake it winds right up. If I don't put my fingers over the intake it falls on its nose and quits. + +Any ideas. New carb? This thing is a real challenge.","Yeah, I'm aware of that one. Like I said, I disassembled this thing completely, including the top plate which has the little brass oriface that can easily be lost, and I put the whole works in the ultra-sonic cleaner. I think the problem is in the ""acceleration circuit"" somehow. So its coming back apart today and I will put fuel to the float bowl and holding the carb level, I will work the arm on the carb to activate the accel pump and see if I can see what happens. To me, it should squirt some fuel into the venturi area. I'll post the result.","Yeah, I'm aware of that one. Like I said, I disassembled this thing completely, including the top plate which has the little brass oriface that can easily be lost, and I put the whole works in the ultra-sonic cleaner. I think the problem is in the ""acceleration circuit"" somehow. So its coming back apart today and I will put fuel to the float bowl and holding the carb level, I will work the arm on the carb to activate the accel pump and see if I can see what happens. To me, it should squirt some fuel into the venturi area. I'll post the result.","I would hook a fuel pressure gauge up first. Get the engine hot, create the no start condition and check the fuel pressure." +"I've got a 2000 F25 that stumbles or quits when advancing the throttle. I've pulled the carb off and cleaned the pilot jet #50 and the main jet #108 and the internals and put it in an ultra sonic cleaner at 140 degrees for 45 minutes. Still does the same thing. + +Starts great and idles great. NO water in the fuel. Fuel pump works good. + +If I put it in gear and quickly open the throttle while holding three fingers over the air intake it winds right up. If I don't put my fingers over the intake it falls on its nose and quits. + +Any ideas. New carb? This thing is a real challenge.","If you still have the problems after your attempt the best advice I can give you is to register on this forum: http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com + +Start a new thread that includes the engines complete model number and year. Detail the problem along with everything you've done. Pictures help too. There are master yamaha mechanics on that forum who can help you troubleshoot.","If you still have the problems after your attempt the best advice I can give you is to register on this forum: http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com + +Start a new thread that includes the engines complete model number and year. Detail the problem along with everything you've done. Pictures help too. There are master yamaha mechanics on that forum who can help you troubleshoot.",its not the length of the cable its the distance the cable can extend both ways not letting the motor to turn enouph +"My f80 2003 ran fine last trip. Now throttle will not advance more than just past idle. The engine starts and runs fine. Disconnected cable and see that the issue is with carb lever, not the remote or cables. Seems like the connection that goes up to the 4 carbs simply won't budge. Disconnected the pushrods ball link between the two moving bellcranks and the front lever moves freely, the rear one that connects up to the carbs moves only a small bit. The arm protruding into the cutout in the middle of the lever should probably move around in this hole, but does not. Help appreciated. Henning",Update. I have isolated the problem to the spring loaded arm of the bottom carb. This hardly moves and I have to use a pair of pliers to do so. I believe this should move freely as the throttle lever is moved. The other three carb arms move freely. I disconnected the pushrod between all 4 to check. Any ideas? Regards Henning,Update. I have isolated the problem to the spring loaded arm of the bottom carb. This hardly moves and I have to use a pair of pliers to do so. I believe this should move freely as the throttle lever is moved. The other three carb arms move freely. I disconnected the pushrod between all 4 to check. Any ideas? Regards Henning,"thank you so much Art for all the info!! well it turned out that the problem was from the thermostat, it was clogged and not letting the cooling water into the engine to cool it down. attached is the pic of the old thermostat + + + + +pilotart said: + + + + Welcome matar961 to the Yamaha Forum! + +You didn't mention which model engine you have (I run a 25 yr old 90TLRP and a 30 yr old Honda BF100E and I guess we should include that in our Profile 'signature'). + +By ""...start to cut off..."" do you refer to a reduction in RPM? + +Yamaha's have a ""Self-Protection"" reduction to 2,000-2,200 RPM that is triggered by an overheat sensed or low oil on Oil-Injected models. Other 'triggers' vary by engine models. + +These should be accompanied by an indication in the form of a warning buzzer and indication in the digital Tach. + +"",,,have to turn it off for about 30 minute."" Points to overheat. + +Only problems I've ever had with my Yamaha were Overheat Warnings. + +First was when it was only five years old, caused by a pinhole corrosion leak from top cylinder combustion chamber into inner head water chamber. Due to all the cool water flowing through head's outer water chamber, it did not ""feel"" hot at all... (Takeaway from that was ""Never Ignore an OH Warning"" even if it ""Feels"" cool to touch (or Laser Gun). + +Second (recent) was due to a partial blockage where water exits block into upper chamber exhaust route. Fresh Water Rinse after use and (much later use of) ""Salt Away"" had cooling chamber clean up where Thermostat and Pressure Regulator were located. + +It took a removal of the cylinder head to see this pile of residue (in clumps too large to pass) causing restriction and my decision to also remove exhaust cover opened a real 'can-of-worms' for me. + +You can confirm your Warning Buzzer (with key-switch 'On') by grounding the pink lead from an overheat sensor/s (usually near top of a cylinder head/s) or applying 12 volts to buzzer itself, first method preferred. + +You can confirm integrity of your overheat sensor/s with an OHM Meter and Candy Thermometer in a heating pan of water on your stove. No continuity between pink and black until temperature passes 190f or so (check your engine's Service Manual) and circuit should reopen again as it cools down past 150f. Check your Thermostat/s at same time for opening at 130f or so and minimum rise of valve to 3/16ths"" or so + +You need to have a Service Manual if you want to be involved with your engines health. A minimum would be the Seloc Manual and that would be available in your local Library, purchased on eBay or a local 'used-book' store (where all my 'former' engine/auto SM's went). Clymer's Book is also excellent and the Factory SM for your model should be 'the bible' (it's quoted in those user manuals). Of course SM's for the more recent models can be purchased on this site or your local Marine Supply or Marina/Yamaha Dealer. + +Best of luck with the problem and have a Great Holiday, +Art + +Click to expand..." +"My f80 2003 ran fine last trip. Now throttle will not advance more than just past idle. The engine starts and runs fine. Disconnected cable and see that the issue is with carb lever, not the remote or cables. Seems like the connection that goes up to the 4 carbs simply won't budge. Disconnected the pushrods ball link between the two moving bellcranks and the front lever moves freely, the rear one that connects up to the carbs moves only a small bit. The arm protruding into the cutout in the middle of the lever should probably move around in this hole, but does not. Help appreciated. Henning","Henning said: + + + + Update. I have isolated the problem to the spring loaded arm of the bottom carb. This hardly moves and I have to use a pair of pliers to do so. I believe this should move freely as the throttle lever is moved. The other three carb arms move freely. I disconnected the pushrod between all 4 to check. Any ideas? Regards Henning + +Click to expand... + + +Have you tried using a penetrating lube like PB Blaster? Spray that onto the lever and let sit for a few mins. Then try and move lever. It shouldn't just lock up like it is unless corrosion has hardened the articulating surface. If that doesn't work, get all the fuel out of the carbs completely, disconnect fuel hoses to carbs, and apply pin point heat. You can heat cycle using a non flammable lube like automatic transmission fluid. ATF then heat then move lever. Repeat.","Henning said: + + + + Update. I have isolated the problem to the spring loaded arm of the bottom carb. This hardly moves and I have to use a pair of pliers to do so. I believe this should move freely as the throttle lever is moved. The other three carb arms move freely. I disconnected the pushrod between all 4 to check. Any ideas? Regards Henning + +Click to expand... + + +Have you tried using a penetrating lube like PB Blaster? Spray that onto the lever and let sit for a few mins. Then try and move lever. It shouldn't just lock up like it is unless corrosion has hardened the articulating surface. If that doesn't work, get all the fuel out of the carbs completely, disconnect fuel hoses to carbs, and apply pin point heat. You can heat cycle using a non flammable lube like automatic transmission fluid. ATF then heat then move lever. Repeat.","Ayuh,.... Whatcha got in mind,..??" +The auxiliary charging system does not seem to be working. I know this because the house batteries went down while out fishing. All of the batteries were installed 6 months ago. When we got back I charged all of the batteries over night and had 13.? volts on each battery. While running the engines at idle the starting batteries showed 14.? volts and each house battery was 12.6 volts. Confirmed that the fuses in the fuse block are good. I pulled the relays and put them back as I do not know how to check them. Where should I look next?,cking a relay with out a dia can be tricky.I would say put wires back the way they were and ck voltages if good relays are good. to run 3 batts you should be useing a isolator . do some more reserch,cking a relay with out a dia can be tricky.I would say put wires back the way they were and ck voltages if good relays are good. to run 3 batts you should be useing a isolator . do some more reserch,"Suggest change oil and only fill half way up the dipstick. +if the oil level climbs over use, I'd say that's your problem.+ +It will also smell like gas." +"On a F250B model year 2008 (V6 with right side head/center cylinder failure), the starboard center sparkplug and cylinder walls are completely coated with carbon. The motor was bought in 2013 and has 350 hours on it and just out of warranty. +The plugs went 200 hours (125 hours to 320 hours) without changing, when I tried to remover the starboard center spark plug I found it impossible to remove spark plug. It took 5 hours with impact wrenching and ring free/penetrating oil sprayed repeatedly drilling in and out repeatedly to knock down the large popsicle of carbon buildup of the spark plug tip. The diameter of the carbon clump was too big to get out of the cylinder head. What would cause this? +After 20 hours, I changed all spark plugs again. Again, it appears the problem is going on still. Does anybody have an idea of what the problem is? +My guess is there is no spark, BUT, without heat, how does the carbon build and deposit on the cylinder walls and plug? +If anybody has an idea on how to address the problem, I would appreciate the input. Again, the motor is 1 year out of warranty but obviously, the problem went undiagnosed for several years. + +Matt",Pull the fuel injector and have it tested.,Pull the fuel injector and have it tested.,"Get a friend to push in key as you look at the fuel enrichment (soleniod). There is ""arm"" the soleniod pulls up when key is pushed in. This arm is held in place to the carb lever by a very small o-ring. The carb lever opens/closes the valves. When key is pushed in, verify the the arm is closing the carb valves. It's possible the o-ring is not in place, thereby allowing the soleniod arm to become detached from carb lever. If parts are where they should be but the soleniod arm isn't fully retracting, volt test the wiring from ignition to soleniod." +"On a F250B model year 2008 (V6 with right side head/center cylinder failure), the starboard center sparkplug and cylinder walls are completely coated with carbon. The motor was bought in 2013 and has 350 hours on it and just out of warranty. +The plugs went 200 hours (125 hours to 320 hours) without changing, when I tried to remover the starboard center spark plug I found it impossible to remove spark plug. It took 5 hours with impact wrenching and ring free/penetrating oil sprayed repeatedly drilling in and out repeatedly to knock down the large popsicle of carbon buildup of the spark plug tip. The diameter of the carbon clump was too big to get out of the cylinder head. What would cause this? +After 20 hours, I changed all spark plugs again. Again, it appears the problem is going on still. Does anybody have an idea of what the problem is? +My guess is there is no spark, BUT, without heat, how does the carbon build and deposit on the cylinder walls and plug? +If anybody has an idea on how to address the problem, I would appreciate the input. Again, the motor is 1 year out of warranty but obviously, the problem went undiagnosed for several years. + +Matt","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Pull the fuel injector and have it tested. + +Click to expand... + +I have a plug in the lights up if the injector gets a signal. My plan was to plug that in tomorrow and see what it looks like. Also have a light that goes on the spark plug-was going to check that too. + +I'll plan on pulling the injector tomorrow after my test, perhaps I should order a new one now??","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Pull the fuel injector and have it tested. + +Click to expand... + +I have a plug in the lights up if the injector gets a signal. My plan was to plug that in tomorrow and see what it looks like. Also have a light that goes on the spark plug-was going to check that too. + +I'll plan on pulling the injector tomorrow after my test, perhaps I should order a new one now??","the white thing is on there for sure. i saw a tube hanging out earlier but as i said its almost impossible to find anything back there with all the foam insulation. + +for clarification purposes, on the spedo, the ground and the blue wire going to the fuel gauge is for the bulb? whats controlling the dial/arm?" +"On a F250B model year 2008 (V6 with right side head/center cylinder failure), the starboard center sparkplug and cylinder walls are completely coated with carbon. The motor was bought in 2013 and has 350 hours on it and just out of warranty. +The plugs went 200 hours (125 hours to 320 hours) without changing, when I tried to remover the starboard center spark plug I found it impossible to remove spark plug. It took 5 hours with impact wrenching and ring free/penetrating oil sprayed repeatedly drilling in and out repeatedly to knock down the large popsicle of carbon buildup of the spark plug tip. The diameter of the carbon clump was too big to get out of the cylinder head. What would cause this? +After 20 hours, I changed all spark plugs again. Again, it appears the problem is going on still. Does anybody have an idea of what the problem is? +My guess is there is no spark, BUT, without heat, how does the carbon build and deposit on the cylinder walls and plug? +If anybody has an idea on how to address the problem, I would appreciate the input. Again, the motor is 1 year out of warranty but obviously, the problem went undiagnosed for several years. + +Matt","Again, Pull the fuel injector and have it tested. By a company that services injectors.","Again, Pull the fuel injector and have it tested. By a company that services injectors.","After removing the cable from the outboard, I found that the limiting hardware is the 15 mm diameter x 300 long shaft at the end of the cable. The upstream end of that shaft contacting the alloy covering the end of the black plastic cable housing stops retraction, and limits turning to the engine's port limit. +The triangular horizontal plate above the outboard's tilt tube has a threaded hole and a larger unthreaded hole, previously unused, at the forward apex of the triangular plate. +Using the forward hole, with a spacing bushing, could help." +"On a F250B model year 2008 (V6 with right side head/center cylinder failure), the starboard center sparkplug and cylinder walls are completely coated with carbon. The motor was bought in 2013 and has 350 hours on it and just out of warranty. +The plugs went 200 hours (125 hours to 320 hours) without changing, when I tried to remover the starboard center spark plug I found it impossible to remove spark plug. It took 5 hours with impact wrenching and ring free/penetrating oil sprayed repeatedly drilling in and out repeatedly to knock down the large popsicle of carbon buildup of the spark plug tip. The diameter of the carbon clump was too big to get out of the cylinder head. What would cause this? +After 20 hours, I changed all spark plugs again. Again, it appears the problem is going on still. Does anybody have an idea of what the problem is? +My guess is there is no spark, BUT, without heat, how does the carbon build and deposit on the cylinder walls and plug? +If anybody has an idea on how to address the problem, I would appreciate the input. Again, the motor is 1 year out of warranty but obviously, the problem went undiagnosed for several years. + +Matt","atomization PASSED +leak test PASSED +FLOW RATE 70CC @ 3 BAR 30 sec + +The shop (Diesel commerial repair) thinks it might be intake valve, just a guess","atomization PASSED +leak test PASSED +FLOW RATE 70CC @ 3 BAR 30 sec + +The shop (Diesel commerial repair) thinks it might be intake valve, just a guess", +"On a F250B model year 2008 (V6 with right side head/center cylinder failure), the starboard center sparkplug and cylinder walls are completely coated with carbon. The motor was bought in 2013 and has 350 hours on it and just out of warranty. +The plugs went 200 hours (125 hours to 320 hours) without changing, when I tried to remover the starboard center spark plug I found it impossible to remove spark plug. It took 5 hours with impact wrenching and ring free/penetrating oil sprayed repeatedly drilling in and out repeatedly to knock down the large popsicle of carbon buildup of the spark plug tip. The diameter of the carbon clump was too big to get out of the cylinder head. What would cause this? +After 20 hours, I changed all spark plugs again. Again, it appears the problem is going on still. Does anybody have an idea of what the problem is? +My guess is there is no spark, BUT, without heat, how does the carbon build and deposit on the cylinder walls and plug? +If anybody has an idea on how to address the problem, I would appreciate the input. Again, the motor is 1 year out of warranty but obviously, the problem went undiagnosed for several years. + +Matt",Leak down the engine.,Leak down the engine.,"Hi Kimcrwbr1: + +Thank you for you reply. Stay tuned in. I will keep you informed. No one got hurt. I made the decision. Everyone had a great fishing experience. You have to know little more about our remoteness before you can pass judgment. We are kind of new at this. next year will be our +47th year in business. But it was our first year of bad fuel. There is always a new adventure to deal with. oh yeah I forgot There were no bucks saved not even two. + +Once again thank you for your reply" +"On a F250B model year 2008 (V6 with right side head/center cylinder failure), the starboard center sparkplug and cylinder walls are completely coated with carbon. The motor was bought in 2013 and has 350 hours on it and just out of warranty. +The plugs went 200 hours (125 hours to 320 hours) without changing, when I tried to remover the starboard center spark plug I found it impossible to remove spark plug. It took 5 hours with impact wrenching and ring free/penetrating oil sprayed repeatedly drilling in and out repeatedly to knock down the large popsicle of carbon buildup of the spark plug tip. The diameter of the carbon clump was too big to get out of the cylinder head. What would cause this? +After 20 hours, I changed all spark plugs again. Again, it appears the problem is going on still. Does anybody have an idea of what the problem is? +My guess is there is no spark, BUT, without heat, how does the carbon build and deposit on the cylinder walls and plug? +If anybody has an idea on how to address the problem, I would appreciate the input. Again, the motor is 1 year out of warranty but obviously, the problem went undiagnosed for several years. + +Matt","Chris it passed the leak test post#5 Elsegundo if it passed a leakdown test the valve train should be fine,find another repair shop","Chris it passed the leak test post#5 Elsegundo if it passed a leakdown test the valve train should be fine,find another repair shop","Tried replacing the diode which a lot of ppl said was the issue but still 15amp fuse blew, any one has any suggestions please?" +"Theres a set of green wires with a blue cover that are unplugged on this 1991 Yamaha 15 2 stroke outboard motor. We havent been able to bring this motor up to full rpm on the water, just wondering if this could be the problem.","Green wire is for tach signal. I see 2 wires, what color is the other one? Wires can have 2 colors, fyi. What you can also do is look in your service manual, electrical section, and trace the wire.","Green wire is for tach signal. I see 2 wires, what color is the other one? Wires can have 2 colors, fyi. What you can also do is look in your service manual, electrical section, and trace the wire.","Yeh, was afraid that might be the case. See what I can figure out. Appreciate it." +"Model number on plate is 150TLRW. Second line is 6G4 L 351868 V + +How do I know which of these TLRW are my motor??? + + +Model 150TJRW +Model 150TLRW +Model C150TLRW +Model C150TXRW +Model D150TLRW +Model L150TXRW +Model P150TLRW +Model S150TLRW +Model S150TXRW","smhamilt said: + + + + Model number on plate is 150TLRW. Second line is 6G4 L 351868 V + +How do I know which of these TLRW are my motor??? + + +Model 150TJRW +Model 150TLRW +Model C150TLRW +Model C150TXRW +Model D150TLRW +Model L150TXRW +Model P150TLRW +Model S150TLRW +Model S150TXRW + + +Click to expand... + + +The letter you're looking for is immediately to the left of 150 on the plate, like in the picture below.","smhamilt said: + + + + Model number on plate is 150TLRW. Second line is 6G4 L 351868 V + +How do I know which of these TLRW are my motor??? + + +Model 150TJRW +Model 150TLRW +Model C150TLRW +Model C150TXRW +Model D150TLRW +Model L150TXRW +Model P150TLRW +Model S150TLRW +Model S150TXRW + + +Click to expand... + + +The letter you're looking for is immediately to the left of 150 on the plate, like in the picture below.",yes correct +"Model number on plate is 150TLRW. Second line is 6G4 L 351868 V + +How do I know which of these TLRW are my motor??? + + +Model 150TJRW +Model 150TLRW +Model C150TLRW +Model C150TXRW +Model D150TLRW +Model L150TXRW +Model P150TLRW +Model S150TLRW +Model S150TXRW","smhamilt said: + + + + Model number on plate is 150TLRW. Second line is 6G4 L 351868 V + +How do I know which of these TLRW are my motor??? + + +Model 150TJRW +Model 150TLRW +Model C150TLRW +Model C150TXRW +Model D150TLRW +Model L150TXRW +Model P150TLRW +Model S150TLRW +Model S150TXRW + + +Click to expand... + + +It's on your list.","smhamilt said: + + + + Model number on plate is 150TLRW. Second line is 6G4 L 351868 V + +How do I know which of these TLRW are my motor??? + + +Model 150TJRW +Model 150TLRW +Model C150TLRW +Model C150TXRW +Model D150TLRW +Model L150TXRW +Model P150TLRW +Model S150TLRW +Model S150TXRW + + +Click to expand... + + +It's on your list.",So flush upwards first then downwards thru tstats second ?? +"Installing new to me motor. This particular motor is directly hosed to the filter. Is this typical? It doesn't have a connector (fuel pipe joint). + +Can someone please recommend the proper fuel line (to purchase by the foot) for this motor.","Fuel hoses are most commonly 3/8"" along with options for thickness of hose. Tracing fuel line sections from tank to carbs: out tank fuel line pick up>in primer bulb>out primer bulb>in fuel/water separator>out fuel water separator>in engine fuel filter>out engine fuel filter>carbs.","Fuel hoses are most commonly 3/8"" along with options for thickness of hose. Tracing fuel line sections from tank to carbs: out tank fuel line pick up>in primer bulb>out primer bulb>in fuel/water separator>out fuel water separator>in engine fuel filter>out engine fuel filter>carbs.","Yes, It's a good idea to place batteries forward for better weight distribution and battery protection. Use 4 gauge wire. If you can find marine grade wire, use that. The individual strands are tinned, which keeps it from corroding. If you have not bought your batteries yet, get the ones that have an auxiliary post that accepts a wing nut. Throw away the wing nut and substitute a lock nut. If you already have your batteries, you can find aftermarket post brackets that have the threaded post." +"Installing new to me motor. This particular motor is directly hosed to the filter. Is this typical? It doesn't have a connector (fuel pipe joint). + +Can someone please recommend the proper fuel line (to purchase by the foot) for this motor.","So, where would I purchase quality (Yamaha OEM?) fuel line by the foot?","So, where would I purchase quality (Yamaha OEM?) fuel line by the foot?","OK. First, is the little cable in place connecting the big anode to the stern bracket? Are the facings between the anode and the stern bracket clean and have good metal to metal contact? + +If all of that, I'm guessing that your steering cylinder my be sufficiently isolated from the engine brackets to not get the sacrificial benefit of the anodes. + +I imagine that you can attach an external anode to the cylinder itself using very shallow bolts. You can purchase all kinds of anodes on line, in all kinds of shapes and sizes. + +I was once told to never mix anode materials. However, on the Honda engines, the external anodes are zinc, and the internal ones in the manifolds are some sort of aluminum composite. Magnesium anodes should only be used in fresh water. + +BTW - is your boat fiberglass?" +"Installing new to me motor. This particular motor is directly hosed to the filter. Is this typical? It doesn't have a connector (fuel pipe joint). + +Can someone please recommend the proper fuel line (to purchase by the foot) for this motor.","Yamaha OEM probably does make fuel hoses, but that's one of the few parts I'll use that is not Yamaha. It's just a standard marine hose, so name brand isn't important. Most marine supply stores carry fuel hoses cut by the foot. Measure what you need before going in, then cut what you need. Below deck fuel lines have a thicker wall than above deck (either one is 3/8"" ID). My local marine store (not west marine) charges like $1.25-1.75 per foot.","Yamaha OEM probably does make fuel hoses, but that's one of the few parts I'll use that is not Yamaha. It's just a standard marine hose, so name brand isn't important. Most marine supply stores carry fuel hoses cut by the foot. Measure what you need before going in, then cut what you need. Below deck fuel lines have a thicker wall than above deck (either one is 3/8"" ID). My local marine store (not west marine) charges like $1.25-1.75 per foot.",Lookin good. Have a good move! +"Installing new to me motor. This particular motor is directly hosed to the filter. Is this typical? It doesn't have a connector (fuel pipe joint). + +Can someone please recommend the proper fuel line (to purchase by the foot) for this motor.",There's also lines engineered for the ethanol fuels available at your local marine center,There's also lines engineered for the ethanol fuels available at your local marine center,I reread the manual on the sync procedure. It mentions carb pickup when referring to timing marks ?? Could someone please walk me through the sync procedure on this motor ? Thanks .....david +"Installing new to me motor. This particular motor is directly hosed to the filter. Is this typical? It doesn't have a connector (fuel pipe joint). + +Can someone please recommend the proper fuel line (to purchase by the foot) for this motor.","johnnygjr said: + + + + There's also lines engineered for the ethanol fuels available at your local marine center + +Click to expand... + + +No kidding, I hadn't know this. I wonder what's added to the rubber to prevent ethanol corrosion, and why it's not added to all marine fuel hoses.","johnnygjr said: + + + + There's also lines engineered for the ethanol fuels available at your local marine center + +Click to expand... + + +No kidding, I hadn't know this. I wonder what's added to the rubber to prevent ethanol corrosion, and why it's not added to all marine fuel hoses.","Certain Enduro models are listed in the Yamaha USA parts catalog. + +The last Enduro's offered by Yamaha US for the US market was circa the year 2000. You can still see them in the Yamaha US parts catalogs and obtain most if not all of the related parts. + +Enduro models are still offered in many parts of the world. Just not here in the US. You would need to contact a dealer that offered a 2007 Enduro model to obtain a parts catalog for it." +"I have a Yamaha 15F 15HP 2 Stroke engine that I have not used in some time so I have been giving it a once over checking for anything obvious before deciding if to get it serviced on not. its had very little use so in excellent condition from looking at it. + +there are a couple of things that give me cause for concern so wondering if anyone can suggest what the issue might be.... + +1) slight drip of oil from below what i think the the exhaust relief holes + +2) misting of oil from the exhaust relief holes and a white reside on the section about where the gear shift rod is + +3) the amount of movement in the shaft in the section where the engine mounts to the transom +also see video + + + + +Thanks in advance","just found this image which does make me thing the gap in the shaft section is normal +http://www.brisbaneyamaha.com.au/wp-content/uploads/image/176/2014/286-15FMHL_W_N_Pob.jpg","just found this image which does make me thing the gap in the shaft section is normal +http://www.brisbaneyamaha.com.au/wp-content/uploads/image/176/2014/286-15FMHL_W_N_Pob.jpg","Ayuh,..... Oodles of choices,.... You just need one that works, not necessarily exactly the same,....." +How do I replace the fuse 682-82151-00-00 in my motor?,"ReneeWiz said: + + + + How do I replace the fuse 682-82151-00-00 in my motor? + +Click to expand... + + +?? Take the blown fuse out and replace with new one. If that doesn't answer your question you'll have to be more specific.","ReneeWiz said: + + + + How do I replace the fuse 682-82151-00-00 in my motor? + +Click to expand... + + +?? Take the blown fuse out and replace with new one. If that doesn't answer your question you'll have to be more specific.","I hooked up an external tank, engine performed very well. Unable to clean tank, 115 gal in board tank, oil has a reservoir that auto mixes at correct feed rate. Would use Startron. Just need to find a place to take 100 gals of old fuel....can't won't store that bomb in my garage........" +"Hi I am new to this forum, + +I have a 2007 WC 290 Coastal with twin F 250 Yamaha that loses power and stalls while underway intermittently, usually one engine at a time. +last year my mechanic diagnosed the problem on the starboard engine as a low /high pressure fuel pumps. all was good then it happened again and he replaced one of the sensors. all has been good on the STB engine so far, 5 hours on it now. yesterday the same thing happened on the port engine after about 30 minutes of ride time @ 4000 RPMs @ 31 MPH. I checked the fuel line ball and it was deflated/collapsed. I pumped it and the engine started but would no stay on when trying t take off. this is similar to the starboard engine last season. After 15 minutes with out trying to start the engine it started and I was able to get home, 30 minute ride, bot ran great. This is an intermittent problem. + +I would type more but this site seems to be experiencing a challenge typing threads. + +Any thughts?","Check all the fuel filters on your engine and empty the water/fuel separators into a clear container,let sit a while,inspect for contaminants","Check all the fuel filters on your engine and empty the water/fuel separators into a clear container,let sit a while,inspect for contaminants","They were good motors but did have issues that were fixed by Yamaha. The 2006 motors are called Series 1 engines and like you said in the higher HP engines some did blow up. Remember these are maxed out two stroke engines and like all high HP engines if something is not right they will eat themselves to death. Piston seizures with rods thrown through blocks are not uncommon especially in the 300 HP versions. Everything must be in spec as Yamaha service says or you could have a BIG problem and parts for these are astronomically expensive. Early engines had oil injection pumps that were calibrated to delivery too much oil and this caused mis-firing and plug fouling. These engines must also be warmed up for a rather long time when they are first started cold. Idling and slow speed running for at least 15 minutes is needed to ensure they dont cold seize when the thermostats open for the first time. They replace these pumps with new ones for free if the owned took it to a dealer.If it blows up badly most engines get sold off for parts because of this. So here is what I recommend for you. Do some research and find out what the best Yamaha dealer for service is in your area. Go and talk to them and talk to the tech that will be working on it. Do they have the computer software, PC, connection cords so they can read the end codes etc. If they dont have this walk away because they dont know what they are doing. Once you are confident then ask the to check that updates have been done and then to do a complete service job. You will be happy then. If you dont do the above it could cost you a fortune and in the end you may no end up with an engine." +"Hi I am new to this forum, + +I have a 2007 WC 290 Coastal with twin F 250 Yamaha that loses power and stalls while underway intermittently, usually one engine at a time. +last year my mechanic diagnosed the problem on the starboard engine as a low /high pressure fuel pumps. all was good then it happened again and he replaced one of the sensors. all has been good on the STB engine so far, 5 hours on it now. yesterday the same thing happened on the port engine after about 30 minutes of ride time @ 4000 RPMs @ 31 MPH. I checked the fuel line ball and it was deflated/collapsed. I pumped it and the engine started but would no stay on when trying t take off. this is similar to the starboard engine last season. After 15 minutes with out trying to start the engine it started and I was able to get home, 30 minute ride, bot ran great. This is an intermittent problem. + +I would type more but this site seems to be experiencing a challenge typing threads. + +Any thughts?","johnnygjr said: + + + + Check all the fuel filters on your engine and empty the water/fuel separators into a clear container,let sit a while,inspect for contaminants + +Click to expand... + + +I did that, there was no water or debris that I could see.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Check all the fuel filters on your engine and empty the water/fuel separators into a clear container,let sit a while,inspect for contaminants + +Click to expand... + + +I did that, there was no water or debris that I could see.","Some people just glass a new piece of close fitting plywood over the old. Most small boat builders do a good job on the hull and a poor fiberglassing job on the floors. If you pour expanding foam under the floor, it gives a lot of floor support and an makes area that can't flood even if you gouge the hull on a rock." +"Hi I am new to this forum, + +I have a 2007 WC 290 Coastal with twin F 250 Yamaha that loses power and stalls while underway intermittently, usually one engine at a time. +last year my mechanic diagnosed the problem on the starboard engine as a low /high pressure fuel pumps. all was good then it happened again and he replaced one of the sensors. all has been good on the STB engine so far, 5 hours on it now. yesterday the same thing happened on the port engine after about 30 minutes of ride time @ 4000 RPMs @ 31 MPH. I checked the fuel line ball and it was deflated/collapsed. I pumped it and the engine started but would no stay on when trying t take off. this is similar to the starboard engine last season. After 15 minutes with out trying to start the engine it started and I was able to get home, 30 minute ride, bot ran great. This is an intermittent problem. + +I would type more but this site seems to be experiencing a challenge typing threads. + +Any thughts?",Is there a fuel tank strainer that could be clogged before the gas hits the water fuel seperator?,Is there a fuel tank strainer that could be clogged before the gas hits the water fuel seperator?,"I think I just found the problem, although I won't know for sure until it happens again! I was wiggling wires again and I noticed the main ground cable that mounts near the starter was a little loose. I wiggled it while using the trim switch and it actually sparked. So I cranked it back down. It must have been loose enough to not pass enough voltage, and the wire runs near the cowling so it probably moved into the perfect spot to lose contact. I'm hoping that's the end to this story. Thanks" +"Hi I am new to this forum, + +I have a 2007 WC 290 Coastal with twin F 250 Yamaha that loses power and stalls while underway intermittently, usually one engine at a time. +last year my mechanic diagnosed the problem on the starboard engine as a low /high pressure fuel pumps. all was good then it happened again and he replaced one of the sensors. all has been good on the STB engine so far, 5 hours on it now. yesterday the same thing happened on the port engine after about 30 minutes of ride time @ 4000 RPMs @ 31 MPH. I checked the fuel line ball and it was deflated/collapsed. I pumped it and the engine started but would no stay on when trying t take off. this is similar to the starboard engine last season. After 15 minutes with out trying to start the engine it started and I was able to get home, 30 minute ride, bot ran great. This is an intermittent problem. + +I would type more but this site seems to be experiencing a challenge typing threads. + +Any thughts?","have you continuously pumped primer bulbs while they are running? There could be one inside of fuel tank,might have to pull sending unit off to get access","have you continuously pumped primer bulbs while they are running? There could be one inside of fuel tank,might have to pull sending unit off to get access",https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...791ED3434E0FF38C877C791ED3434E0F&&FORM=VDRVRV +"Hi I am new to this forum, + +I have a 2007 WC 290 Coastal with twin F 250 Yamaha that loses power and stalls while underway intermittently, usually one engine at a time. +last year my mechanic diagnosed the problem on the starboard engine as a low /high pressure fuel pumps. all was good then it happened again and he replaced one of the sensors. all has been good on the STB engine so far, 5 hours on it now. yesterday the same thing happened on the port engine after about 30 minutes of ride time @ 4000 RPMs @ 31 MPH. I checked the fuel line ball and it was deflated/collapsed. I pumped it and the engine started but would no stay on when trying t take off. this is similar to the starboard engine last season. After 15 minutes with out trying to start the engine it started and I was able to get home, 30 minute ride, bot ran great. This is an intermittent problem. + +I would type more but this site seems to be experiencing a challenge typing threads. + +Any thughts?","johnnygjr said: + + + + have you continuously pumped primer bulbs while they are running? There could be one inside of fuel tank,might have to pull sending unit off to get access + +Click to expand... + + +I did not pump the primer ball while the engine was running. +so you are saying in the WC 290 there is a ball in the tank it self. +also does each fuel line go directly into the tank or is there a main the comes out of the tank and then splits to port/Starboard engines? + +this is an intermittent problem and when one engine is out the other still runs, they are never both out at the same time. + +thanks, + +Dan","johnnygjr said: + + + + have you continuously pumped primer bulbs while they are running? There could be one inside of fuel tank,might have to pull sending unit off to get access + +Click to expand... + + +I did not pump the primer ball while the engine was running. +so you are saying in the WC 290 there is a ball in the tank it self. +also does each fuel line go directly into the tank or is there a main the comes out of the tank and then splits to port/Starboard engines? + +this is an intermittent problem and when one engine is out the other still runs, they are never both out at the same time. + +thanks, + +Dan",Thank you both. Maybe an auto body shop might have suggestions also? +"Hi I am new to this forum, + +I have a 2007 WC 290 Coastal with twin F 250 Yamaha that loses power and stalls while underway intermittently, usually one engine at a time. +last year my mechanic diagnosed the problem on the starboard engine as a low /high pressure fuel pumps. all was good then it happened again and he replaced one of the sensors. all has been good on the STB engine so far, 5 hours on it now. yesterday the same thing happened on the port engine after about 30 minutes of ride time @ 4000 RPMs @ 31 MPH. I checked the fuel line ball and it was deflated/collapsed. I pumped it and the engine started but would no stay on when trying t take off. this is similar to the starboard engine last season. After 15 minutes with out trying to start the engine it started and I was able to get home, 30 minute ride, bot ran great. This is an intermittent problem. + +I would type more but this site seems to be experiencing a challenge typing threads. + +Any thughts?","screen inside of tank,possibly. You will have to trace your fuel lines physically from the fuel/water separator/s back to the tank/s. Is there 2 tanks? Are there 2 gas filler necks with caps?","screen inside of tank,possibly. You will have to trace your fuel lines physically from the fuel/water separator/s back to the tank/s. Is there 2 tanks? Are there 2 gas filler necks with caps?",Rrough roads with rollers on the trailer have been known to damage the hulls on some boats.--------Some hulls are not designed for extreme point loads when you hit a bump at speed.----------Bunks are best on rough roads. +"Hey Guys Im new to the forum and new to boating in general, please bare with me. I purchased a boat last week that came with a 96 115V4 that allegedly has a ""hole in the block"". This is what I was told by the seller who had it diagnosed by his Marina. It looks like the previous owner had tried to JB Weld the bottom of the block or something under the engine case/block. I will be honest I have not had time to fire the engine and inspect anything at this point. I am hoping to see if anyone knows of any issues with these engines corroding or leaking at the bottom of the block just above the cowl plates ? I was also talking to a yamaha outboard parts guy and he was saying it could be a cracked leaking water jacket or a leaking head gasket. THe only thing is the previous owner said there was a hole in the block that corroded. I suppose its all hear say untill I actually start to diag the water leak. I just would really like to know if there is a common known issue with what I am explaining. Any help would be grealty appreciated.","So last night I ran the motor on the trailer with water muffs for about 15-20 min with no leaks what so ever. Maybe the person that owned the boat previous to me was mistaken ? Im not sure what else to do to check for a water leak, is there a way to pressurize the cooling system other than what I have already done ?","So last night I ran the motor on the trailer with water muffs for about 15-20 min with no leaks what so ever. Maybe the person that owned the boat previous to me was mistaken ? Im not sure what else to do to check for a water leak, is there a way to pressurize the cooling system other than what I have already done ?",OK I see that a lot of people looked at thiss thread but I haven't heard anything. Anyone at least know where I might be able to find out any info on the motor?? +"Hey Guys Im new to the forum and new to boating in general, please bare with me. I purchased a boat last week that came with a 96 115V4 that allegedly has a ""hole in the block"". This is what I was told by the seller who had it diagnosed by his Marina. It looks like the previous owner had tried to JB Weld the bottom of the block or something under the engine case/block. I will be honest I have not had time to fire the engine and inspect anything at this point. I am hoping to see if anyone knows of any issues with these engines corroding or leaking at the bottom of the block just above the cowl plates ? I was also talking to a yamaha outboard parts guy and he was saying it could be a cracked leaking water jacket or a leaking head gasket. THe only thing is the previous owner said there was a hole in the block that corroded. I suppose its all hear say untill I actually start to diag the water leak. I just would really like to know if there is a common known issue with what I am explaining. Any help would be grealty appreciated.",Try a compression test next. then take her to the water and run engine with a load on it,Try a compression test next. then take her to the water and run engine with a load on it,thanks +"Hey Guys Im new to the forum and new to boating in general, please bare with me. I purchased a boat last week that came with a 96 115V4 that allegedly has a ""hole in the block"". This is what I was told by the seller who had it diagnosed by his Marina. It looks like the previous owner had tried to JB Weld the bottom of the block or something under the engine case/block. I will be honest I have not had time to fire the engine and inspect anything at this point. I am hoping to see if anyone knows of any issues with these engines corroding or leaking at the bottom of the block just above the cowl plates ? I was also talking to a yamaha outboard parts guy and he was saying it could be a cracked leaking water jacket or a leaking head gasket. THe only thing is the previous owner said there was a hole in the block that corroded. I suppose its all hear say untill I actually start to diag the water leak. I just would really like to know if there is a common known issue with what I am explaining. Any help would be grealty appreciated.","rowch01 said: + + + + So last night I ran the motor on the trailer with water muffs for about 15-20 min with no leaks what so ever. Maybe the person that owned the boat previous to me was mistaken ? Im not sure what else to do to check for a water leak, is there a way to pressurize the cooling system other than what I have already done ? + +Click to expand... + + +Being that he was selling the boat/motor to you and fully disclosed the block was leaking, I'd take his word for it. First thing that comes to mind as to why the motor didn't leak while on muffs is because the engine is not under load. Essentially, the motor doesn't have to work while on flush. Pistons are torqued, cylinders are under high pressure. + +2 options for you to run the engine under load.... + +1st, back the boat down the boat ramp and submerge the boat deep enough in the water to allow the engine to be lowered completely without the prop hitting bottom. Leave the boat hooked to the bow winch and leave the transom straps on. Make sure these are tight. Take top cowling off. Start motor and allow to warm up for a few minutes. Then put in forward gear and slowly begin to accelerate. Work your way up from idle speed to 2k. Keep it running and look at the engine for the leak. + +2nd option. Launch the boat and run it. I'd stay nearby the ramp just in case. Leave the top cowling off while you run it. Probably safer to bring a friend who can keep an eye on the engine to let you know if/when it leaks. Put stress on the motor, run it hard, try to induce the leak. If it leaks you'd wanna know now, not when you're out pleasure boating.","rowch01 said: + + + + So last night I ran the motor on the trailer with water muffs for about 15-20 min with no leaks what so ever. Maybe the person that owned the boat previous to me was mistaken ? Im not sure what else to do to check for a water leak, is there a way to pressurize the cooling system other than what I have already done ? + +Click to expand... + + +Being that he was selling the boat/motor to you and fully disclosed the block was leaking, I'd take his word for it. First thing that comes to mind as to why the motor didn't leak while on muffs is because the engine is not under load. Essentially, the motor doesn't have to work while on flush. Pistons are torqued, cylinders are under high pressure. + +2 options for you to run the engine under load.... + +1st, back the boat down the boat ramp and submerge the boat deep enough in the water to allow the engine to be lowered completely without the prop hitting bottom. Leave the boat hooked to the bow winch and leave the transom straps on. Make sure these are tight. Take top cowling off. Start motor and allow to warm up for a few minutes. Then put in forward gear and slowly begin to accelerate. Work your way up from idle speed to 2k. Keep it running and look at the engine for the leak. + +2nd option. Launch the boat and run it. I'd stay nearby the ramp just in case. Leave the top cowling off while you run it. Probably safer to bring a friend who can keep an eye on the engine to let you know if/when it leaks. Put stress on the motor, run it hard, try to induce the leak. If it leaks you'd wanna know now, not when you're out pleasure boating.","mill686 said: + + + +Looking to purchase a trim gauge for my 2019 F70. I know the gauge is a white face 6Y7. What harness do I need? Any instructions or pictures to aid in installation? Thanks. + +Greg + +Click to expand... + +How many times do you want to be given the answer?" +"Hey Guys Im new to the forum and new to boating in general, please bare with me. I purchased a boat last week that came with a 96 115V4 that allegedly has a ""hole in the block"". This is what I was told by the seller who had it diagnosed by his Marina. It looks like the previous owner had tried to JB Weld the bottom of the block or something under the engine case/block. I will be honest I have not had time to fire the engine and inspect anything at this point. I am hoping to see if anyone knows of any issues with these engines corroding or leaking at the bottom of the block just above the cowl plates ? I was also talking to a yamaha outboard parts guy and he was saying it could be a cracked leaking water jacket or a leaking head gasket. THe only thing is the previous owner said there was a hole in the block that corroded. I suppose its all hear say untill I actually start to diag the water leak. I just would really like to know if there is a common known issue with what I am explaining. Any help would be grealty appreciated.","rowch01 said: + + + + I am hoping to see if anyone knows of any issues with these engines corroding or leaking at the bottom of the block just above the cowl plates? I was also talking to a yamaha outboard parts guy and he was saying it could be a cracked leaking water jacket or a leaking head gasket.. + +Click to expand... + + +Forgot to answer your question above. No, what the previous owner claimed as a leak in block is not common, pretty much with any engine. However, the engine is 20 years old. How your engine performs at its current age is directly proportional to how well it has been maintained over the years. I have the same engine, 1998. Previous owner kept it well maintained, spotless. Runs like a beast. + +It's far more likely the leak is coming from the water jacket or gaskets verses a ""hole"" in the block. But the way to know is put engine under load.","rowch01 said: + + + + I am hoping to see if anyone knows of any issues with these engines corroding or leaking at the bottom of the block just above the cowl plates? I was also talking to a yamaha outboard parts guy and he was saying it could be a cracked leaking water jacket or a leaking head gasket.. + +Click to expand... + + +Forgot to answer your question above. No, what the previous owner claimed as a leak in block is not common, pretty much with any engine. However, the engine is 20 years old. How your engine performs at its current age is directly proportional to how well it has been maintained over the years. I have the same engine, 1998. Previous owner kept it well maintained, spotless. Runs like a beast. + +It's far more likely the leak is coming from the water jacket or gaskets verses a ""hole"" in the block. But the way to know is put engine under load.","boscoe said: + + + + Output from the pulser coil and the CPS. Output from the CDI to the ignition coils. Loaded and unloaded. Engine running. Usually tested with a test lead to avoid piercing wire insulation. + +Click to expand... + + pulsar coil 309 ohms w/b and w/r + 2.3v at idle across both wires. + w/b 1.2-1.4v at idle + 1.4 m-ohms to ground + + w/r 1.1-1.3v at idle + 1.37 m-ohms to ground + + crank position sensor 197 ohms blue/w and blue/r + 6.9-9v across both wires + blue/w 6-7v at idle + to ground 207 ohms + blue/r .007v at idle + to ground .1-.4ohms + cylinder 1&3 had 2 volts(or.2 can't recall) and cylinder 2 had zero volts while idling + also while testing and looking for sparks to ground I found the green/white wire to the pulsar riding on the fly wheel worn through nearly all the way. + also in the testing i" +"I'm having problems with my tilt and trim. I'm trying to get to the screen filters inside the hydraulic pump I got the block off and all the springs , ball bearings etc. But can't figure out how to get valve seats out. Anyone got any advice",I would suggest a good factory service manual.,I would suggest a good factory service manual.,"boscoe said: + + + + I can't recall a light piston powered air plane that does not use a magneto ignition system. Two of them actually. Some with a special system to help them get started given their fixed timing systems. + +Big difference between an airplane motor and an outboard motor. It is not just happenstance that all modern stuff uses electronic ignition systems. Some air plane motors as well. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, You will never catch me up in the air with a single CDI unit after experiencing outboard CDI failures. You are right most light plans have dual mag units." +"Ok I just repowered my Parker 2120SC. It had a 2004 F 150 and today I hung a used(36 hrs) 2014 F150. I went to connect the motor and the 10 pin connector was fine as was one 2 pin connector, however there was a 4 pin connector from the 2004 motor that I couldnt find the female for? Any advice would help. +Also please confirm where the positive and negative battery cables go. +thanks in advance!! +Jerry","wow no response/help? my specific question pertains to the difference between rigging( factory wiring) the 2014 in place of the 2004 F 150. +thanks","wow no response/help? my specific question pertains to the difference between rigging( factory wiring) the 2014 in place of the 2004 F 150. +thanks","The 5.0 that OMC was using was 350 HP + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... What year,..?? What Model,..?? 250 hp is more like it,..... + + + + Had it dynoed last year and came out at 328HP. + +Click to expand... + + +What cam, 'n other components,..?? at what rpms,.. ?? + +High horsepower automobile motors suffer reversion when stuffed into boats, 'n die gruesome deaths,.... + +Boat motors need to build Big torque down low,...... 5000 rpms, Tops,...." +Does Yamaha offer promos like the other brands out there ? If so how often. That would help me decide on a repower. Thanks.,"Call them,probably, also try boat shows","Call them,probably, also try boat shows","I pulled on rope several times. I'm not sure how many are required but couldn't get it past 95. I agree it is low so maybe I had a leak. I will do it over when I get back to engine."" IF"" it is fuel starved, and ""IF"" the jets are undersized is there any recommendations for upsizing? As I noted it does run better but I think it is still lacking. Too hard to start and and hard cranking throttle gets delayed acceleration. Slow gradual works fine but sometimes quick deceleration cause engine to die. All seemingly pointing to fuel. Is there a spark advance that should be happening? I'm just lost at this point but my right arm is going popeye." +"Hi You'll back a couple week ago I was intouch with a couple of you Guys about my fuel problem, and it was decided that most likely problem was a pluged VST Filter, I have now pull the rig from the water, armed myself with a Seloc Repair Manual, and also down loaded some parts Diagams, I have a couple Questions before I order my parts that I am sure one of you can answer for me, 1st= The VST filter is inside the VST Assembley, & under the high Pressure Pump (Right ?) do I replace this filter or can it be cleaned? +Next thing, there is a inline filter just after the fuel leaves the low pressure pump, dont I need to change this while I am after anything that might be causing my motor to bog down under a load above 2000, but will REV to 4 or more out of Gear +I had been in touch Docksidemarineservices & DWard, but help fom any of you Good Helpers will be Great, This old man can do it Just need a Couple Good Coaches!!!!! Thanks a Bunch + +LakeRat1 will be standing BY","I havent seen what was said on a previous topic, but have you checked the fuel pressure, especially when the problem is happening... +Also, have you done a drop test to make sure all cylinders are firing??","I havent seen what was said on a previous topic, but have you checked the fuel pressure, especially when the problem is happening... +Also, have you done a drop test to make sure all cylinders are firing??",Are you looking for the hose fitting that mates with the engine side fitting? +"Hi You'll back a couple week ago I was intouch with a couple of you Guys about my fuel problem, and it was decided that most likely problem was a pluged VST Filter, I have now pull the rig from the water, armed myself with a Seloc Repair Manual, and also down loaded some parts Diagams, I have a couple Questions before I order my parts that I am sure one of you can answer for me, 1st= The VST filter is inside the VST Assembley, & under the high Pressure Pump (Right ?) do I replace this filter or can it be cleaned? +Next thing, there is a inline filter just after the fuel leaves the low pressure pump, dont I need to change this while I am after anything that might be causing my motor to bog down under a load above 2000, but will REV to 4 or more out of Gear +I had been in touch Docksidemarineservices & DWard, but help fom any of you Good Helpers will be Great, This old man can do it Just need a Couple Good Coaches!!!!! Thanks a Bunch + +LakeRat1 will be standing BY","I replaced the VST filters with new ones........but when I was cleaning my injectors in my ultrasonic cleaner I threw the old dirty VST filters in and after 10 minutes they came out looking like new. If you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner I'd order a new one as you don't want to get it apart and then have to wait. The VST filter attaches to the bottom of the high pressure pump in the VST bowl. + +On my 115s I didn't change the cartridge filters between the low pressure pump and the VST as they weren't plugged.....I just blew some air backwards through them. I guess I'd inspect them and if they don't look bad I'd clean them. Those are pretty big filters compared to the small filter area on the VST filter. + +Did you ever have any luck getting the attachment that lets you hook your pressure gauge up to the VST?","I replaced the VST filters with new ones........but when I was cleaning my injectors in my ultrasonic cleaner I threw the old dirty VST filters in and after 10 minutes they came out looking like new. If you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner I'd order a new one as you don't want to get it apart and then have to wait. The VST filter attaches to the bottom of the high pressure pump in the VST bowl. + +On my 115s I didn't change the cartridge filters between the low pressure pump and the VST as they weren't plugged.....I just blew some air backwards through them. I guess I'd inspect them and if they don't look bad I'd clean them. Those are pretty big filters compared to the small filter area on the VST filter. + +Did you ever have any luck getting the attachment that lets you hook your pressure gauge up to the VST?","Check fuel system, Water/fuel separators,filters,lines kinked, Gummed up fuel system" +"Hi You'll back a couple week ago I was intouch with a couple of you Guys about my fuel problem, and it was decided that most likely problem was a pluged VST Filter, I have now pull the rig from the water, armed myself with a Seloc Repair Manual, and also down loaded some parts Diagams, I have a couple Questions before I order my parts that I am sure one of you can answer for me, 1st= The VST filter is inside the VST Assembley, & under the high Pressure Pump (Right ?) do I replace this filter or can it be cleaned? +Next thing, there is a inline filter just after the fuel leaves the low pressure pump, dont I need to change this while I am after anything that might be causing my motor to bog down under a load above 2000, but will REV to 4 or more out of Gear +I had been in touch Docksidemarineservices & DWard, but help fom any of you Good Helpers will be Great, This old man can do it Just need a Couple Good Coaches!!!!! Thanks a Bunch + +LakeRat1 will be standing BY","Thanks for Your Replys, First to answer tonyaus Replys, I have changed my add on NAPA 12 Micron water seperator, as well as a inline filter after that and before the fuel gets to the motor, when i changed the spin on water seperator filter i dumped it and there was no trash of water, i had added a double dose od marine sta bel to the fresh fuel, motor does not miss like a plug problem, it will rev as hig as i dare try when out of gear, get under way, runs fine at 1000, and fine for a time at 2, but get on it and before it gets to 3 it will bog down, slow down and it will recover, and as long as you dont push it to hard runs fine, but keep giving it trottel and at some point it runs out of gas, + +DWard i was never able to locate a cross over from the Standard Schrader connection on my furl gauge to the Small Schrader connection on the Fuel Rail of my motor, i would still love to fine on, but i went ahead and pull the rig out of the water while i had help, i tried Snap On and a number of other Tool Companys, i may need to try a Yamaha Dealer, the one in this part of the Country don want any one to be able to do their own work, if you know where i can get a crossover like i need please let me know, i plan to order all my parts on line before i tare into it so once i open it up i can replace the filters and o rings and what not and close it back up, +DWard do i have to drop that lower motor clowing in order to get the intake manifold out? + +Thanks Again +LakeRat1","Thanks for Your Replys, First to answer tonyaus Replys, I have changed my add on NAPA 12 Micron water seperator, as well as a inline filter after that and before the fuel gets to the motor, when i changed the spin on water seperator filter i dumped it and there was no trash of water, i had added a double dose od marine sta bel to the fresh fuel, motor does not miss like a plug problem, it will rev as hig as i dare try when out of gear, get under way, runs fine at 1000, and fine for a time at 2, but get on it and before it gets to 3 it will bog down, slow down and it will recover, and as long as you dont push it to hard runs fine, but keep giving it trottel and at some point it runs out of gas, + +DWard i was never able to locate a cross over from the Standard Schrader connection on my furl gauge to the Small Schrader connection on the Fuel Rail of my motor, i would still love to fine on, but i went ahead and pull the rig out of the water while i had help, i tried Snap On and a number of other Tool Companys, i may need to try a Yamaha Dealer, the one in this part of the Country don want any one to be able to do their own work, if you know where i can get a crossover like i need please let me know, i plan to order all my parts on line before i tare into it so once i open it up i can replace the filters and o rings and what not and close it back up, +DWard do i have to drop that lower motor clowing in order to get the intake manifold out? + +Thanks Again +LakeRat1","swampbelly said: + + + + This 14' fiberglass boat has a hole on each side of the drain plug in the sump and has rubber stoppers in them. The holes look like they are between the the bottom hull and the floor. Are these holes/plugs for drainage? Thanks for any help. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... That would be My guess..." +"Hi You'll back a couple week ago I was intouch with a couple of you Guys about my fuel problem, and it was decided that most likely problem was a pluged VST Filter, I have now pull the rig from the water, armed myself with a Seloc Repair Manual, and also down loaded some parts Diagams, I have a couple Questions before I order my parts that I am sure one of you can answer for me, 1st= The VST filter is inside the VST Assembley, & under the high Pressure Pump (Right ?) do I replace this filter or can it be cleaned? +Next thing, there is a inline filter just after the fuel leaves the low pressure pump, dont I need to change this while I am after anything that might be causing my motor to bog down under a load above 2000, but will REV to 4 or more out of Gear +I had been in touch Docksidemarineservices & DWard, but help fom any of you Good Helpers will be Great, This old man can do it Just need a Couple Good Coaches!!!!! Thanks a Bunch + +LakeRat1 will be standing BY","Below is my post from your previous thread. There is a link to a couple pictures showing the engine before and after the manifold is removed........you don't need to remove the lower cowling and the intake can be leaned out instead of completely removing it. + +You're on the right track. The pump on the back is a diaphram pump that feeds the VST. The bowl and filter on the back has a red disc inside to tell you if there is water in the gas....the red disc will rise up in water and stay at the bottom if no water there. The cartridge filter is to filter between the mechanical pump and VST. + +To replace the VST I first removed the plastic air intake from the intake manifold. There are about 2 or 3 bolts that go through the manifold into the block, and about 6 that bolt to the intake itself. You'll need a ujoint and extension to get the bottom bolt. The intake itself has a couple bolts on the intake side and about 5 that bolt it to the block. There are 3 bolts that hold the VST to the intake (mine had yellow paint on them) and I'd wait unitl the intake is loose and leaning out before removing those. There is a metal gasket between the intake and block that you need to remove and keep track of which end is up and down as the bolts don't line up if it's not on correctly. + +Once the intake is leaning out, there is a fuel line on the bottom of the VST that is a return from the fuel regulator and the intake fuel line that I removed from the VST. I left the high pressure line to the fuel rail on the VST and removed it from the bottom of the fuel rail. There are also a few vacuum lines that need to be removed from the VST. You'll need a 3/8 drive 10mm, 12mm abd 13mm socket with a 6""extension and a ujoint as the bottom bolt on the plastic intake is down in there. Once the VST is out a phillips screw driver gets the bowl off and then you'll see the VST filter which you replace. + +As for the injectors they are a lot easier to get to and may or may not be plugged. It's about $20-$25 each to have them serviced........you decide whether you want to service them now or later. The fuel pressure reading would help you in figuring whether they are plugged up or not. I'd guess that once the VST filter is clean and changed things will run a lot better. I did a lot of research and figured out how to clean my own injectors, but it takes an ultra sonic cleaner and an aparatus to push cleaning fluid through the injectors. I did this because the boat is in Florida and I was on a tight schedule.......if I had the boat around I probably would have had the injectors cleaned by someone like injectorman.com or others I heard about on this site. + +Below is a link to a picture of before and after intake is removed. When I changed mine I didn't take the intake completely off, I leaned it out. I also googled ""change yamaha f115 vst"" and found a bunch of information that helped, and you'll probably find something that I didn't see. + +http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/297623-yamaha-f115-vst-filter-change-w-question.html...-question.html ​ +Last edited by dward; 06-27-2011 at 04:29 PM.​","Below is my post from your previous thread. There is a link to a couple pictures showing the engine before and after the manifold is removed........you don't need to remove the lower cowling and the intake can be leaned out instead of completely removing it. + +You're on the right track. The pump on the back is a diaphram pump that feeds the VST. The bowl and filter on the back has a red disc inside to tell you if there is water in the gas....the red disc will rise up in water and stay at the bottom if no water there. The cartridge filter is to filter between the mechanical pump and VST. + +To replace the VST I first removed the plastic air intake from the intake manifold. There are about 2 or 3 bolts that go through the manifold into the block, and about 6 that bolt to the intake itself. You'll need a ujoint and extension to get the bottom bolt. The intake itself has a couple bolts on the intake side and about 5 that bolt it to the block. There are 3 bolts that hold the VST to the intake (mine had yellow paint on them) and I'd wait unitl the intake is loose and leaning out before removing those. There is a metal gasket between the intake and block that you need to remove and keep track of which end is up and down as the bolts don't line up if it's not on correctly. + +Once the intake is leaning out, there is a fuel line on the bottom of the VST that is a return from the fuel regulator and the intake fuel line that I removed from the VST. I left the high pressure line to the fuel rail on the VST and removed it from the bottom of the fuel rail. There are also a few vacuum lines that need to be removed from the VST. You'll need a 3/8 drive 10mm, 12mm abd 13mm socket with a 6""extension and a ujoint as the bottom bolt on the plastic intake is down in there. Once the VST is out a phillips screw driver gets the bowl off and then you'll see the VST filter which you replace. + +As for the injectors they are a lot easier to get to and may or may not be plugged. It's about $20-$25 each to have them serviced........you decide whether you want to service them now or later. The fuel pressure reading would help you in figuring whether they are plugged up or not. I'd guess that once the VST filter is clean and changed things will run a lot better. I did a lot of research and figured out how to clean my own injectors, but it takes an ultra sonic cleaner and an aparatus to push cleaning fluid through the injectors. I did this because the boat is in Florida and I was on a tight schedule.......if I had the boat around I probably would have had the injectors cleaned by someone like injectorman.com or others I heard about on this site. + +Below is a link to a picture of before and after intake is removed. When I changed mine I didn't take the intake completely off, I leaned it out. I also googled ""change yamaha f115 vst"" and found a bunch of information that helped, and you'll probably find something that I didn't see. + +http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/297623-yamaha-f115-vst-filter-change-w-question.html...-question.html ​ +Last edited by dward; 06-27-2011 at 04:29 PM.​","How long have you owned the boat? All you can do is slow down, try different trim angles and shift weight in the boat. You should find the sweet spot with your setup. Is the motor running close to 100%, the hull clean and the prop in good shape? Just take your time and enjoy your time on the water a good little kicker might help depending what you use it for." +"Hi You'll back a couple week ago I was intouch with a couple of you Guys about my fuel problem, and it was decided that most likely problem was a pluged VST Filter, I have now pull the rig from the water, armed myself with a Seloc Repair Manual, and also down loaded some parts Diagams, I have a couple Questions before I order my parts that I am sure one of you can answer for me, 1st= The VST filter is inside the VST Assembley, & under the high Pressure Pump (Right ?) do I replace this filter or can it be cleaned? +Next thing, there is a inline filter just after the fuel leaves the low pressure pump, dont I need to change this while I am after anything that might be causing my motor to bog down under a load above 2000, but will REV to 4 or more out of Gear +I had been in touch Docksidemarineservices & DWard, but help fom any of you Good Helpers will be Great, This old man can do it Just need a Couple Good Coaches!!!!! Thanks a Bunch + +LakeRat1 will be standing BY","Thanks dward<> 1 more Question, do i need to replace the Metal Manifold Gasket? Thanks for Your Help!! + +LakeRat1","Thanks dward<> 1 more Question, do i need to replace the Metal Manifold Gasket? Thanks for Your Help!! + +LakeRat1","Turn the flywheel to get a piston at TDC. “Screw” a piece of rag into the sparkplug hole, get it flush, or just a bit below flush. Use your drill, or hand turned brush, then vacumn out the debris. +grab the rag with needle nose pliers, or a dental pick, & twist it out on reverse of the direction you put it in. +Repeat with other cylinders." +"Hi You'll back a couple week ago I was intouch with a couple of you Guys about my fuel problem, and it was decided that most likely problem was a pluged VST Filter, I have now pull the rig from the water, armed myself with a Seloc Repair Manual, and also down loaded some parts Diagams, I have a couple Questions before I order my parts that I am sure one of you can answer for me, 1st= The VST filter is inside the VST Assembley, & under the high Pressure Pump (Right ?) do I replace this filter or can it be cleaned? +Next thing, there is a inline filter just after the fuel leaves the low pressure pump, dont I need to change this while I am after anything that might be causing my motor to bog down under a load above 2000, but will REV to 4 or more out of Gear +I had been in touch Docksidemarineservices & DWard, but help fom any of you Good Helpers will be Great, This old man can do it Just need a Couple Good Coaches!!!!! Thanks a Bunch + +LakeRat1 will be standing BY","Its unfortunate that you cant read your fuel pressure, cause I think this reading will just about point to your problem. +Another thing to look for, would be the little filters that are on each injector, or for the $100 to service/clean them, it may be worth doing regardless... +Another thing you could check, is the inlet needle on the VST. With the VST cover removed, you can even put a hose on the inlet side with a primer bulb attached, and when the float is hanging make sure you have a good flow when you are pushing fuel through it... +As far as that gasket goes, I dont think you really need to replace it, but for about 10 bucks, i wouldnt chance it...","Its unfortunate that you cant read your fuel pressure, cause I think this reading will just about point to your problem. +Another thing to look for, would be the little filters that are on each injector, or for the $100 to service/clean them, it may be worth doing regardless... +Another thing you could check, is the inlet needle on the VST. With the VST cover removed, you can even put a hose on the inlet side with a primer bulb attached, and when the float is hanging make sure you have a good flow when you are pushing fuel through it... +As far as that gasket goes, I dont think you really need to replace it, but for about 10 bucks, i wouldnt chance it...","Welcome to the forum, can you please explain a bit more on how you are getting the moisture on the bottom cyl?" +"Hi You'll back a couple week ago I was intouch with a couple of you Guys about my fuel problem, and it was decided that most likely problem was a pluged VST Filter, I have now pull the rig from the water, armed myself with a Seloc Repair Manual, and also down loaded some parts Diagams, I have a couple Questions before I order my parts that I am sure one of you can answer for me, 1st= The VST filter is inside the VST Assembley, & under the high Pressure Pump (Right ?) do I replace this filter or can it be cleaned? +Next thing, there is a inline filter just after the fuel leaves the low pressure pump, dont I need to change this while I am after anything that might be causing my motor to bog down under a load above 2000, but will REV to 4 or more out of Gear +I had been in touch Docksidemarineservices & DWard, but help fom any of you Good Helpers will be Great, This old man can do it Just need a Couple Good Coaches!!!!! Thanks a Bunch + +LakeRat1 will be standing BY","Thanks <> tonyaus<> for your Reply, I will send my injectors out to be cleaned, as for cleaning the Fuel Rail, do i need to send it off alonf with the Injectors, or is that something i can do with some type strong cleaner, Thanks Again + +LakeRat1","Thanks <> tonyaus<> for your Reply, I will send my injectors out to be cleaned, as for cleaning the Fuel Rail, do i need to send it off alonf with the Injectors, or is that something i can do with some type strong cleaner, Thanks Again + +LakeRat1","I recommend that you post this question on the Mercruiser Forum on this site. Go to the top of this page. On the left you will see ""Forum Home."" Click on that and select ""Mercruiser""" +"Hi You'll back a couple week ago I was intouch with a couple of you Guys about my fuel problem, and it was decided that most likely problem was a pluged VST Filter, I have now pull the rig from the water, armed myself with a Seloc Repair Manual, and also down loaded some parts Diagams, I have a couple Questions before I order my parts that I am sure one of you can answer for me, 1st= The VST filter is inside the VST Assembley, & under the high Pressure Pump (Right ?) do I replace this filter or can it be cleaned? +Next thing, there is a inline filter just after the fuel leaves the low pressure pump, dont I need to change this while I am after anything that might be causing my motor to bog down under a load above 2000, but will REV to 4 or more out of Gear +I had been in touch Docksidemarineservices & DWard, but help fom any of you Good Helpers will be Great, This old man can do it Just need a Couple Good Coaches!!!!! Thanks a Bunch + +LakeRat1 will be standing BY","My 115s have probably had the intakes off and back on while servicing the VST about 4 times and we haven't replaced the gaskets yet. Although I always thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a gasket available just in case. + +The fuel rail shouldn't need cleaning unless something has really gunked it up but you definitely don't need to send it off. + +As for the injectors, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have them serviced, although I'm guessing they aren't the problem. I cleaned all of mine and like tonyaus mentioned the little filters in the injectors are usually the problem if they act up. The little filters in the injectors are actually pretty easy to replace. Below is a link showing a diy cleaning on some ford injectors where he shows how to replace the filters in the injectors. The yamaha injectors are similar but don't need any of the pintle cap parts as they only have the orings on top and bottom and the little filter baskets. + +I got the baskets and orings for my injectors from fuelinjectorconnection.com I think the baskets were 50 cents each. + + +http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/DIYFuelInjectorCleaning.htm","My 115s have probably had the intakes off and back on while servicing the VST about 4 times and we haven't replaced the gaskets yet. Although I always thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a gasket available just in case. + +The fuel rail shouldn't need cleaning unless something has really gunked it up but you definitely don't need to send it off. + +As for the injectors, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have them serviced, although I'm guessing they aren't the problem. I cleaned all of mine and like tonyaus mentioned the little filters in the injectors are usually the problem if they act up. The little filters in the injectors are actually pretty easy to replace. Below is a link showing a diy cleaning on some ford injectors where he shows how to replace the filters in the injectors. The yamaha injectors are similar but don't need any of the pintle cap parts as they only have the orings on top and bottom and the little filter baskets. + +I got the baskets and orings for my injectors from fuelinjectorconnection.com I think the baskets were 50 cents each. + + +http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/DIYFuelInjectorCleaning.htm","I have checked continuity, voltage, at the starter switch, and both trim/tilt solenoids and i have sufficient voltage and continuity at all points. Can it be something as silly as the neutral switch? Does the neutral switch stop trim/tilt function? The motor is mislabled in the previous post, its a 2006 Yamaha 115TLR two stroke...sorry for any confusion there. I am completely frustrated by the deadness of the motor and trim/tilt at stern." +"Hi You'll back a couple week ago I was intouch with a couple of you Guys about my fuel problem, and it was decided that most likely problem was a pluged VST Filter, I have now pull the rig from the water, armed myself with a Seloc Repair Manual, and also down loaded some parts Diagams, I have a couple Questions before I order my parts that I am sure one of you can answer for me, 1st= The VST filter is inside the VST Assembley, & under the high Pressure Pump (Right ?) do I replace this filter or can it be cleaned? +Next thing, there is a inline filter just after the fuel leaves the low pressure pump, dont I need to change this while I am after anything that might be causing my motor to bog down under a load above 2000, but will REV to 4 or more out of Gear +I had been in touch Docksidemarineservices & DWard, but help fom any of you Good Helpers will be Great, This old man can do it Just need a Couple Good Coaches!!!!! Thanks a Bunch + +LakeRat1 will be standing BY",Did cleaning/replacing the vast resolve the bogging down issue? I have same engine and same issue,Did cleaning/replacing the vast resolve the bogging down issue? I have same engine and same issue,So flush upwards first then downwards thru tstats second ?? +"I have a 1985 Yamaha 115 outboard that I bought new and it has been a fantastic outboard with very few problems all these years, it still runs great. Two years ago I developed a overheating problem only while running the boat on the water at 1/2 throttle or better. So I decided to replace the water pump that didn't help so I also replaced the thermostats and that didn't help! After looking the outboard over many times I realized the problem was my stupid mistake of putting the inlet covers on backwards! The motor runs great but I've noticed that the port side runs around 25 degrees warmer than the starboard side on motor flusher at idle. It's not getting hot, port side reading was 102 degrees while the starboard side was 75 degrees. I've cross switched the thermostats and that changes nothing. Is there something I'm missing? Any help will be greatly appreciated. + +Alan",at that age you could have salt/calcium type build up under the cover plates. If you don't find anything else I would look at pulling those off and checking for build up.,at that age you could have salt/calcium type build up under the cover plates. If you don't find anything else I would look at pulling those off and checking for build up.,"I'll check the fuel and air pressures as well as the belt and tensioners. Does this engine have a data interface connector? I have a Mercury computer system for Mercruisers and outboards. Since this was a Yamaha product, I hadn't tried a computer diagnostic yet." +"I have a 1985 Yamaha 115 outboard that I bought new and it has been a fantastic outboard with very few problems all these years, it still runs great. Two years ago I developed a overheating problem only while running the boat on the water at 1/2 throttle or better. So I decided to replace the water pump that didn't help so I also replaced the thermostats and that didn't help! After looking the outboard over many times I realized the problem was my stupid mistake of putting the inlet covers on backwards! The motor runs great but I've noticed that the port side runs around 25 degrees warmer than the starboard side on motor flusher at idle. It's not getting hot, port side reading was 102 degrees while the starboard side was 75 degrees. I've cross switched the thermostats and that changes nothing. Is there something I'm missing? Any help will be greatly appreciated. + +Alan","Agreed with ^^^. When was the last time you pulled the head and head cover? If its been years that's the next step I'd take. My guess is you've got corrosion build up in the water passages, and this is the primary reason you were experiencing the high temp alarm, not the inlet covers installed backwards. The backwards covers I imagine only exacerbated the cooling problem. + +And if you follow through with the above then you might as well replace the head and cover gaskets. Be careful unscrewing the head bolts as to not snap one. Also, these bolts absolutely require proper torque. See your manual for the exact lb/ft.","Agreed with ^^^. When was the last time you pulled the head and head cover? If its been years that's the next step I'd take. My guess is you've got corrosion build up in the water passages, and this is the primary reason you were experiencing the high temp alarm, not the inlet covers installed backwards. The backwards covers I imagine only exacerbated the cooling problem. + +And if you follow through with the above then you might as well replace the head and cover gaskets. Be careful unscrewing the head bolts as to not snap one. Also, these bolts absolutely require proper torque. See your manual for the exact lb/ft.","Brought her home and disconnected the steering rod from the motor and i could move the motor with no binding so i know the problem isnt the motor. Now what? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... Pull the cable outa the tilt tube, it's probably corroded inside..." +"I have a 1985 Yamaha 115 outboard that I bought new and it has been a fantastic outboard with very few problems all these years, it still runs great. Two years ago I developed a overheating problem only while running the boat on the water at 1/2 throttle or better. So I decided to replace the water pump that didn't help so I also replaced the thermostats and that didn't help! After looking the outboard over many times I realized the problem was my stupid mistake of putting the inlet covers on backwards! The motor runs great but I've noticed that the port side runs around 25 degrees warmer than the starboard side on motor flusher at idle. It's not getting hot, port side reading was 102 degrees while the starboard side was 75 degrees. I've cross switched the thermostats and that changes nothing. Is there something I'm missing? Any help will be greatly appreciated. + +Alan","I don't have a overheating problem at all just one side of motor seams to not be heating up as it should. It acts like there isn't a thermostat in it or the thermostat is stuck open but its not and I even swapped them to see if the temp difference would follow the thermostats but it didn't change at all. I even swapped the pressure relive valves? I think that's what their called and no change at all. And believe me my overheating problem was the inlet covers installed backwards because I was running it on the river after installing new pump and thermostats and it still overheated. So I put the boat back on the trailer and started looking at the motor and noticed the screens were on backwards, they are designed to channel water into them and with them on backwards at higher speeds they will cause the water to pass around the inlets instead of going into it. I changed the screens around put it back into the river and ran it 2 miles pretty hard and it was fantastic. That was 2 years ago and its never overheated again. So my only concern is the temp differences from one side to the other.","I don't have a overheating problem at all just one side of motor seams to not be heating up as it should. It acts like there isn't a thermostat in it or the thermostat is stuck open but its not and I even swapped them to see if the temp difference would follow the thermostats but it didn't change at all. I even swapped the pressure relive valves? I think that's what their called and no change at all. And believe me my overheating problem was the inlet covers installed backwards because I was running it on the river after installing new pump and thermostats and it still overheated. So I put the boat back on the trailer and started looking at the motor and noticed the screens were on backwards, they are designed to channel water into them and with them on backwards at higher speeds they will cause the water to pass around the inlets instead of going into it. I changed the screens around put it back into the river and ran it 2 miles pretty hard and it was fantastic. That was 2 years ago and its never overheated again. So my only concern is the temp differences from one side to the other.","The ""check engine light"" only comes on when there is a blockage in the fuel system leading to the engine." +"I have a 1985 Yamaha 115 outboard that I bought new and it has been a fantastic outboard with very few problems all these years, it still runs great. Two years ago I developed a overheating problem only while running the boat on the water at 1/2 throttle or better. So I decided to replace the water pump that didn't help so I also replaced the thermostats and that didn't help! After looking the outboard over many times I realized the problem was my stupid mistake of putting the inlet covers on backwards! The motor runs great but I've noticed that the port side runs around 25 degrees warmer than the starboard side on motor flusher at idle. It's not getting hot, port side reading was 102 degrees while the starboard side was 75 degrees. I've cross switched the thermostats and that changes nothing. Is there something I'm missing? Any help will be greatly appreciated. + +Alan","I hope this isn't a double post as I tried to post earlier and its not showing. My motor hasn’t overheated in two years since I changed the intake screens around, and 10 minutes before I changed them it was overheating while running on the river. So it was 100% the intake screens and my stupid mistake. This motor has never been in the salt and has great circulation in the cooling system as it did before replacing the 29 year old water pump and thermostats. What I’m trying to figure out is there any explanation as to why the starboard side of the motor is running noticeably cooler than the port side? I've swapped the thermostats around and also the pop off or pressure relief valves. Doing this doesn’t change anything. Like I said before, running on ears in driveway after its run about 5 minutes port side was running 125 degrees on the head and starboard was running 75 degrees. Sorry if I didn’t make myself clear in my first post. + +Alan","I hope this isn't a double post as I tried to post earlier and its not showing. My motor hasn’t overheated in two years since I changed the intake screens around, and 10 minutes before I changed them it was overheating while running on the river. So it was 100% the intake screens and my stupid mistake. This motor has never been in the salt and has great circulation in the cooling system as it did before replacing the 29 year old water pump and thermostats. What I’m trying to figure out is there any explanation as to why the starboard side of the motor is running noticeably cooler than the port side? I've swapped the thermostats around and also the pop off or pressure relief valves. Doing this doesn’t change anything. Like I said before, running on ears in driveway after its run about 5 minutes port side was running 125 degrees on the head and starboard was running 75 degrees. Sorry if I didn’t make myself clear in my first post. + +Alan","I'm old tech. Carburetor and analog gauges... + +It's reading system voltage from the main harness which in the current setup is just battery voltage" +"I have a 1985 Yamaha 115 outboard that I bought new and it has been a fantastic outboard with very few problems all these years, it still runs great. Two years ago I developed a overheating problem only while running the boat on the water at 1/2 throttle or better. So I decided to replace the water pump that didn't help so I also replaced the thermostats and that didn't help! After looking the outboard over many times I realized the problem was my stupid mistake of putting the inlet covers on backwards! The motor runs great but I've noticed that the port side runs around 25 degrees warmer than the starboard side on motor flusher at idle. It's not getting hot, port side reading was 102 degrees while the starboard side was 75 degrees. I've cross switched the thermostats and that changes nothing. Is there something I'm missing? Any help will be greatly appreciated. + +Alan","It is not abnormal for one cylinder to be hotter or colder than another cylinder or for one bank of cylinders to be hotter or colder than another bank cylinders. I know the answer you're looking for is WHY, but this is all I can offer. + +Also, how are you getting the temp? Sender? When you get into temp problems it's best to check temps with a laser temp gun. Senders and gauges have an ""allowable"" factory tolerance. + +Despite your motor being a freshwater outboard and regularly flushed, water passages can still become corroded over time. Fresh water lakes/rivers have microbes, bacteria. Like salt, over time corrosion can occur with a freshwater outboard. Lastly, if you've got the time and are comfortable removing head bolts, open the port bank and check the passages. Hour labor at most.","It is not abnormal for one cylinder to be hotter or colder than another cylinder or for one bank of cylinders to be hotter or colder than another bank cylinders. I know the answer you're looking for is WHY, but this is all I can offer. + +Also, how are you getting the temp? Sender? When you get into temp problems it's best to check temps with a laser temp gun. Senders and gauges have an ""allowable"" factory tolerance. + +Despite your motor being a freshwater outboard and regularly flushed, water passages can still become corroded over time. Fresh water lakes/rivers have microbes, bacteria. Like salt, over time corrosion can occur with a freshwater outboard. Lastly, if you've got the time and are comfortable removing head bolts, open the port bank and check the passages. Hour labor at most.","Thank you very much. Really appreciate your experience. just bought a workshop manual for it. +Regards, +Graham." +"I have a 1985 Yamaha 115 outboard that I bought new and it has been a fantastic outboard with very few problems all these years, it still runs great. Two years ago I developed a overheating problem only while running the boat on the water at 1/2 throttle or better. So I decided to replace the water pump that didn't help so I also replaced the thermostats and that didn't help! After looking the outboard over many times I realized the problem was my stupid mistake of putting the inlet covers on backwards! The motor runs great but I've noticed that the port side runs around 25 degrees warmer than the starboard side on motor flusher at idle. It's not getting hot, port side reading was 102 degrees while the starboard side was 75 degrees. I've cross switched the thermostats and that changes nothing. Is there something I'm missing? Any help will be greatly appreciated. + +Alan","I’m taking temps with a laser temp gun. Thanks for the reply, yes I’ve read that there is a difference between cylinders or banks of cylinders but this just seems like a bigger difference that I noticed in all the years that I've owned this motor. When I get some gaskets I’ll take your suggestion and open it up to see if there is any restriction in there. My thought process is there is something wrong on the starboard side that its not coming up to temp. Also I've never checked the temps on the water with a laser temp gun while running it at higher RPM and under load to see what kind of difference there is, only felt by hand and could tell there was a difference. My main concern is I don’t want to hurt this motor after the great service its given me all these years.","I’m taking temps with a laser temp gun. Thanks for the reply, yes I’ve read that there is a difference between cylinders or banks of cylinders but this just seems like a bigger difference that I noticed in all the years that I've owned this motor. When I get some gaskets I’ll take your suggestion and open it up to see if there is any restriction in there. My thought process is there is something wrong on the starboard side that its not coming up to temp. Also I've never checked the temps on the water with a laser temp gun while running it at higher RPM and under load to see what kind of difference there is, only felt by hand and could tell there was a difference. My main concern is I don’t want to hurt this motor after the great service its given me all these years.",it was a disconnected wire at the battery +"VX225TLRY - Cleaning up some shoddy rigging in my boat and ended up shortening the main power leads to the engine and re-terminating to the battery. Started motor and ran on the hose after I finished with no issues. Went on to clean up some other wiring under the dash and now no crank, no tilt/trim. Sure enough, 80amp fuse on motor is blown. If I jumper the fuse and even touch the positive lead to the battery terminal it wants to weld and sparks go everywhere and blows apart my test lead. Any ideas?","cb8296 said: + + + +VX225TLRY - If I jumper the fuse and even touch the positive lead to the battery terminal it wants to weld and sparks go everywhere and blows apart my test lead. Any ideas? + +Click to expand... + + +Blown fuses usually indicate a bad ground. Your attempt at jumping the fuse with subsequent arc tells me you definitely have no ground. You need to determine if indeed your ground lead from the cranking battery to starter is compromised. First check the connections at both ends, make sure they are free from corrosion. If good, meter test the ground lead for resistance/continuity. I'm guessing your problem is here. If not, it's possible the ground terminal on starter is bad. + +All in all, I believe this is a ground issue from what you've described. You'll have to trace the ground from its source forward, find the resistance.","cb8296 said: + + + +VX225TLRY - If I jumper the fuse and even touch the positive lead to the battery terminal it wants to weld and sparks go everywhere and blows apart my test lead. Any ideas? + +Click to expand... + + +Blown fuses usually indicate a bad ground. Your attempt at jumping the fuse with subsequent arc tells me you definitely have no ground. You need to determine if indeed your ground lead from the cranking battery to starter is compromised. First check the connections at both ends, make sure they are free from corrosion. If good, meter test the ground lead for resistance/continuity. I'm guessing your problem is here. If not, it's possible the ground terminal on starter is bad. + +All in all, I believe this is a ground issue from what you've described. You'll have to trace the ground from its source forward, find the resistance.","Continuing with my last...if your tach does not have the rubber grommet to access the 3 dip switches, then that particular model of tach cannot monitor oil pressure." +"VX225TLRY - Cleaning up some shoddy rigging in my boat and ended up shortening the main power leads to the engine and re-terminating to the battery. Started motor and ran on the hose after I finished with no issues. Went on to clean up some other wiring under the dash and now no crank, no tilt/trim. Sure enough, 80amp fuse on motor is blown. If I jumper the fuse and even touch the positive lead to the battery terminal it wants to weld and sparks go everywhere and blows apart my test lead. Any ideas?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Blown fuses usually indicate a bad ground. Your attempt at jumping the fuse with subsequent arc tells me you definitely have no ground. You need to determine if indeed your ground lead from the cranking battery to starter is compromised. First check the connections at both ends, make sure they are free from corrosion. If good, meter test the ground lead for resistance/continuity. I'm guessing your problem is here. If not, it's possible the ground terminal on starter is bad. + +All in all, I believe this is a ground issue from what you've described. You'll have to trace the ground from its source forward, find the resistance. + +Click to expand... + + + +What I found was a dead short in the rectifier/regulator.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Blown fuses usually indicate a bad ground. Your attempt at jumping the fuse with subsequent arc tells me you definitely have no ground. You need to determine if indeed your ground lead from the cranking battery to starter is compromised. First check the connections at both ends, make sure they are free from corrosion. If good, meter test the ground lead for resistance/continuity. I'm guessing your problem is here. If not, it's possible the ground terminal on starter is bad. + +All in all, I believe this is a ground issue from what you've described. You'll have to trace the ground from its source forward, find the resistance. + +Click to expand... + + + +What I found was a dead short in the rectifier/regulator.","Re: Engine size on pontoon + +115 is a V-4, 150 a V-6. About 50Kg (100Lbs) in difference." +"VX225TLRY - Cleaning up some shoddy rigging in my boat and ended up shortening the main power leads to the engine and re-terminating to the battery. Started motor and ran on the hose after I finished with no issues. Went on to clean up some other wiring under the dash and now no crank, no tilt/trim. Sure enough, 80amp fuse on motor is blown. If I jumper the fuse and even touch the positive lead to the battery terminal it wants to weld and sparks go everywhere and blows apart my test lead. Any ideas?","cb8296 said: + + + + What I found was a dead short in the rectifier/regulator. + +Click to expand... + + + +Interesting. Which wire in the rectifier did you discover was proving the +/- conduit?","cb8296 said: + + + + What I found was a dead short in the rectifier/regulator. + +Click to expand... + + + +Interesting. Which wire in the rectifier did you discover was proving the +/- conduit?","i actually intend on using a plastic food container inside the cooler to house my minnows. +and a ""rule"" live well pump, sucking fresh water in and re-circulating it on a timer. +my 9.9 does have its own charging system. are you saying i should seperate the rule pump to just that battery being charged from the 9.9 ? +makes sense ............." +"VX225TLRY - Cleaning up some shoddy rigging in my boat and ended up shortening the main power leads to the engine and re-terminating to the battery. Started motor and ran on the hose after I finished with no issues. Went on to clean up some other wiring under the dash and now no crank, no tilt/trim. Sure enough, 80amp fuse on motor is blown. If I jumper the fuse and even touch the positive lead to the battery terminal it wants to weld and sparks go everywhere and blows apart my test lead. Any ideas?","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Interesting. Which wire in the rectifier did you discover was proving the +/- conduit? + +Click to expand... + + +The red/white pair coming from the 80amp fuse to the rectifier/regulator. With everything else b+ disconnected on the motor it was still arching when trying to connect the battery. Put the ohm meter between the ground on the r/r and that red/white pair and it shows a dead short. The second molex plug you see in the pic is for an aux. charging circuit in case the boat has a second house battery.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Interesting. Which wire in the rectifier did you discover was proving the +/- conduit? + +Click to expand... + + +The red/white pair coming from the 80amp fuse to the rectifier/regulator. With everything else b+ disconnected on the motor it was still arching when trying to connect the battery. Put the ohm meter between the ground on the r/r and that red/white pair and it shows a dead short. The second molex plug you see in the pic is for an aux. charging circuit in case the boat has a second house battery.","You really do not have many options. If you absolutely need a motor, consider buying a new one. Buying an old motor and expecting it to run flawlessly forever is an unreal expectation. If your motor DOES NOT run flawlessly (which apparently it is not), you then have 3 options- throw it away and buy a new one, fix it yourself or have someone else do it. If you cannot fix it yourself and elect to keep the motor, you then only have 1 option- have someone else repair it. If you live in a neighbourhood of ""crack heads"", you have a larger problem than a faulty outboard. Outboards are a totally different beast than any other type of motor- if they fail, you could easily find yourself in a life threatening situation very quickly. Do yourself a favour- live on dry land or buy a new outboard. Otherwise be sure to wear your PFD at all times." +"VX225TLRY - Cleaning up some shoddy rigging in my boat and ended up shortening the main power leads to the engine and re-terminating to the battery. Started motor and ran on the hose after I finished with no issues. Went on to clean up some other wiring under the dash and now no crank, no tilt/trim. Sure enough, 80amp fuse on motor is blown. If I jumper the fuse and even touch the positive lead to the battery terminal it wants to weld and sparks go everywhere and blows apart my test lead. Any ideas?","Looks like you know your electronics. Great job finding the short so quick. Sometimes, more like most times, it takes forever.","Looks like you know your electronics. Great job finding the short so quick. Sometimes, more like most times, it takes forever.",Got a update. Did compression check on all cylinders. They all have 92-96lb on every cylinder. It looks like the power head was rebuilt or replaced before. And I think when they tried to get it off they used a screw driver or something and bent out where the hole was or something. I’m only in town for a couple days but the motor is running flawless. Got the hole welded up and gonna keep going with it. +"Are spark plugs interchangeable between NGK BKR6EKU and NGK BKR7EKU ?. + +Ok simple question that I can't find a answer for . Some people say they should work ???. + +I have Yahama 2004 150 HPDI","Both of those two NGK plugs are identical, except for their heat range number (6 & 7). The higher the number the colder the plug. From the NGK website: ""When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. Running too cold a plug can only cause it to foul out, whereas running too hot a plug can cause severe engine damage."" + + +With that said, the NGK plug indicated for your engine is the BKR6EKU. It's always a wise decision to use the manufacturer recommended parts.","Both of those two NGK plugs are identical, except for their heat range number (6 & 7). The higher the number the colder the plug. From the NGK website: ""When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. Running too cold a plug can only cause it to foul out, whereas running too hot a plug can cause severe engine damage."" + + +With that said, the NGK plug indicated for your engine is the BKR6EKU. It's always a wise decision to use the manufacturer recommended parts.",Try adjusting the throttle control or drain the carbs and see what comes out? Check for water in the gas. +"2005 200hp Yam +Need to know where the 02 sensor is? +I think I know but want to make sure. + +My neighbor wants me to clean it and I know the gasket needs to be replaced. +So to order the right one?? I want to make sure it's where I think it is?? + +Thanks,Jerry","If your going to pull it to clean it Replace it, Why are you pulling it in the first place? A code come up?","If your going to pull it to clean it Replace it, Why are you pulling it in the first place? A code come up?","It seems there aren't a lot who will respond on the Yamaha repair forum (Honda is much more interactive) +If it were me, I would get the motor back and don't pay them a penny ! +Any reputable shop could get this job done in a week. +just my 2 bits" +"2005 200hp Yam +Need to know where the 02 sensor is? +I think I know but want to make sure. + +My neighbor wants me to clean it and I know the gasket needs to be replaced. +So to order the right one?? I want to make sure it's where I think it is?? + +Thanks,Jerry","Clean the O2. @ $472.00 you clean it. + +OX66 O2 + + +HPDI","Clean the O2. @ $472.00 you clean it. + +OX66 O2 + + +HPDI",The diagram is in the applicable service manual. The wire colours are gray/black. Here is the diagram with the gray/black wires in red for better visibility. +"2005 200hp Yam +Need to know where the 02 sensor is? +I think I know but want to make sure. + +My neighbor wants me to clean it and I know the gasket needs to be replaced. +So to order the right one?? I want to make sure it's where I think it is?? + +Thanks,Jerry","Thanks Chris. +I've asked a BUNCH of people at a BUNCH of sites and your the only one who answered. +Thanks. + +(Clean the O2. @ $472.00 you clean it.) + +Yea my neighbor sure can't afford that!! + +Another question: I'm thinking of buying a boat with a gill bracket. +It has no motor now. +How do I measure for the outboard? +The guy selling has no idea what motor was on it?? + +One person said: Extend a 2X4 on the bottom and then measure up where the top of the bracket is. +Kinda like a huge L","Thanks Chris. +I've asked a BUNCH of people at a BUNCH of sites and your the only one who answered. +Thanks. + +(Clean the O2. @ $472.00 you clean it.) + +Yea my neighbor sure can't afford that!! + +Another question: I'm thinking of buying a boat with a gill bracket. +It has no motor now. +How do I measure for the outboard? +The guy selling has no idea what motor was on it?? + +One person said: Extend a 2X4 on the bottom and then measure up where the top of the bracket is. +Kinda like a huge L","I was just wondering if anyone had actually taken it in, think I'll do it this summer" +"2005 200hp Yam +Need to know where the 02 sensor is? +I think I know but want to make sure. + +My neighbor wants me to clean it and I know the gasket needs to be replaced. +So to order the right one?? I want to make sure it's where I think it is?? + +Thanks,Jerry",From top of transom to bottom edge of the keel,From top of transom to bottom edge of the keel,"I never said I wasn't accountable for my actions you idiot. + +All I was looking for is an intelligent answer, on a nice relaxing Sunday afternoon. But, it's apparent that your parents grounded you for not picking up your underwear off the floor. So, all you can do is reply with a non-intelligent answer, because you have no knowledge of the subject, and can't go out to play with the one friend that you do have...possibly. + +I swore years ago that I wouldn't frequent forums that would make me engage in a negative manner. Please, for the love of all that is holy, can someone reply with an intelligent answer to help me not feel this way about this forum. + +BTW, while unloading at the dock yesterday, we ran into two other people that had the same thing happened, so it's not as rare as one might think. + +Have a wonderful Sunday." +"2005 200hp Yam +Need to know where the 02 sensor is? +I think I know but want to make sure. + +My neighbor wants me to clean it and I know the gasket needs to be replaced. +So to order the right one?? I want to make sure it's where I think it is?? + +Thanks,Jerry",use propane torch to heat the tip of the o2 sensor to clean it. DO NOT USE OXY/AC.,use propane torch to heat the tip of the o2 sensor to clean it. DO NOT USE OXY/AC.,yes it jumps that +"2005 200hp Yam +Need to know where the 02 sensor is? +I think I know but want to make sure. + +My neighbor wants me to clean it and I know the gasket needs to be replaced. +So to order the right one?? I want to make sure it's where I think it is?? + +Thanks,Jerry","Johnnyjgr +That's the same way to measure that is used for measuring a motor without a gill bracket. +Thanks. +leadhead: I used OMC's engine tuner. Let it soak for 24-30 hrs and the carbon melts away.","Johnnyjgr +That's the same way to measure that is used for measuring a motor without a gill bracket. +Thanks. +leadhead: I used OMC's engine tuner. Let it soak for 24-30 hrs and the carbon melts away.","The plugs look good, and both mechanics said that was the first thing they checked." +"2005 200hp Yam +Need to know where the 02 sensor is? +I think I know but want to make sure. + +My neighbor wants me to clean it and I know the gasket needs to be replaced. +So to order the right one?? I want to make sure it's where I think it is?? + +Thanks,Jerry",Cleaning the O2 sensor . I have 150 HPDI two strokes and cleaned it many times . The sensor most likely does not need cleaning . But could be fouled from the exhaust carbon. You could destroy the sensor by using the wrong cleaners on it . Just brush off what is on it. Now here's what to look for . Your engine might be different but I have a small hollow tube with a flange on each end . Take that out and clean the hole going through it. Now where that came out get a # 30 drill ( approx) and stick it in the hole and you will feel a small hole in the back of the hole . I found this clogged which will not let all the exhaust on the sensor and give the computer a false reading. GO to Yamaha web page and look up your engine it will show where it is and if it's the same as I describe. Good Luck.,Cleaning the O2 sensor . I have 150 HPDI two strokes and cleaned it many times . The sensor most likely does not need cleaning . But could be fouled from the exhaust carbon. You could destroy the sensor by using the wrong cleaners on it . Just brush off what is on it. Now here's what to look for . Your engine might be different but I have a small hollow tube with a flange on each end . Take that out and clean the hole going through it. Now where that came out get a # 30 drill ( approx) and stick it in the hole and you will feel a small hole in the back of the hole . I found this clogged which will not let all the exhaust on the sensor and give the computer a false reading. GO to Yamaha web page and look up your engine it will show where it is and if it's the same as I describe. Good Luck.,"Mmm, 1st time hearing this. Reply with yr/model. Is throttle lever free/clear when putting into reverse or do you feel resistance?" +"I have a 19' Pathfinder with an 04 Yamaha 150 4 stroke (F150TLRC) it has around 350 hours on the engine. maintained very well, impeller changes every 6 months or 75 hours, oil changes and so on. I recently purchased the boat within the past year and since then ive had her in the water on average every other week. the most it ever sat was a month without being turned over. I went fishing by myself on Friday, ran her all over the Pine Island Sound, I let it get up to max RPM's maybe once or twice when getting through skinny water, 9 hours on the water and not one hiccup from the engine (like normal) On Saturday, I loaded it up, refueled (didn't get ethanol free and got 91 octane since the gas station was out) got her on the water, cranked right up, It idled for 5-10 minutes while I parked the truck and trailer, came back, cruised out of the idle zone and as I went to get up on plane, the engine wouldn't seem to get past 3500 RPMS (give or take) I immediately thought control cable and checked and it was still in perfect working condition, the primer bulb was stiff but not like a rock. Tried to throttle up again and went no where, sputtered and bitched at me for a minute or so and then it **** the bed. I know that my fuel water separator was due to be changed out shortly, I dumped the contents in a mason jar, there was definitely a lot of water in there but thought that's what its purpose was for. I primed the separator with fresh gas and reinstalled (Temporary fix until I ran to the store and got a new one) still nothing. Engine is turning over and a few times it started up but couldn't throttle up or seem to keep a nice idle before I either shut it off or it stalled on its own. I'm no mechanic but I'm no idiot either, I'm a carpenter by trade so I have the common knowledge. I traced fuel lines all the way back to what I'm assuming is the ""Fuel Pumps""? Two triangular shaped pieces of aluminum with a clear screen and a diaphragm inside? NOt sure how to tell if these are working or not. I did take off the fuel injectors, power them up and ran brake cleaner through them. They all seem to be working fine. I haven checked to see if I'm getting spark or not but my gut is telling me its fuel related. As far as I can tell I'm getting fuel from the gas tank to the engine no problem. I just cant figure out what next step to take. Any Advice is greatly appreciated.","Since im most familiar with Yam 2 strokes, my best advice is go to http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com. + +Being its an manufacturer specidic forum you get the best advice. Many very knowledgeable members on there will be able to help solve your issue. + +I can say if you've got that much water in the fuel system it is most likely the culprit. You are correct that the purpose of water/fuel separator is to prevent water from invading the engine. But the issue you'll need to address is how did water get into the tank. Once the engine is up and running it will happen again if you don't determine how water is getting in. Good luck.","Since im most familiar with Yam 2 strokes, my best advice is go to http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com. + +Being its an manufacturer specidic forum you get the best advice. Many very knowledgeable members on there will be able to help solve your issue. + +I can say if you've got that much water in the fuel system it is most likely the culprit. You are correct that the purpose of water/fuel separator is to prevent water from invading the engine. But the issue you'll need to address is how did water get into the tank. Once the engine is up and running it will happen again if you don't determine how water is getting in. Good luck.","Ayuh,... Ya might have Better luck in the Merc outboard forum..." +"Greetings ALL! +I am attempting to remove my Trim/Tilt Assembly (Motor and Ram) That Large Bolted in Pivot Pin is not budging +(trying to remove from Left to Right while looking a the aft of the motor) + +I have a brass hammer and applied copious amounts of penetrating lubricant to try to gat it to budge. + +I MAY have to go purchase a pneumatic hammer if THAT is what it takes. + +May I please ask for your suggestions/comments on this. + +Thank you. + +Tom",An Oxy/Acy torch works real good when working on these outboards.,An Oxy/Acy torch works real good when working on these outboards.,The stator coil coupler is a 6 pin harness that plugs into rectifier regulator. Have you followed the service manuals procedure for testing stator and R&R? +"Greetings ALL! +I am attempting to remove my Trim/Tilt Assembly (Motor and Ram) That Large Bolted in Pivot Pin is not budging +(trying to remove from Left to Right while looking a the aft of the motor) + +I have a brass hammer and applied copious amounts of penetrating lubricant to try to gat it to budge. + +I MAY have to go purchase a pneumatic hammer if THAT is what it takes. + +May I please ask for your suggestions/comments on this. + +Thank you. + +Tom","A giant c-clamp and a few sockets and press it out, patience,elbow grease,and bandaids","A giant c-clamp and a few sockets and press it out, patience,elbow grease,and bandaids","Mercruiser, Chev 350 TBI engines, Alpha1 Gen2 drives" +"Greetings ALL! +I am attempting to remove my Trim/Tilt Assembly (Motor and Ram) That Large Bolted in Pivot Pin is not budging +(trying to remove from Left to Right while looking a the aft of the motor) + +I have a brass hammer and applied copious amounts of penetrating lubricant to try to gat it to budge. + +I MAY have to go purchase a pneumatic hammer if THAT is what it takes. + +May I please ask for your suggestions/comments on this. + +Thank you. + +Tom","I use a mix of acetone and transmission oil, 50-50 in a spray bottle. +Spray and then heat(boobie)spray some more and heat some more. +Tap with the brass hammer while heating and spraying. +Repeat, all the while flex the housing and then heat more and then the clamp and if you can fit it into a press or use the C clamp (johnny gir)try the socket and press it out.","I use a mix of acetone and transmission oil, 50-50 in a spray bottle. +Spray and then heat(boobie)spray some more and heat some more. +Tap with the brass hammer while heating and spraying. +Repeat, all the while flex the housing and then heat more and then the clamp and if you can fit it into a press or use the C clamp (johnny gir)try the socket and press it out.","Hi, Eric +If you locate the three digit code on the ignition switch barrel you can take that number and plug it into Partspak.com and it will give you the part number to order. For example I typed in ""Yamaha key 752"" into the search and it brought up this listing for the 752 key. +http://www.partspak.com/productcart...sultCnt=10&keyword=yamaha+key+752&submit=GO%2. + +Jon Goldberg" +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.","Remove intake silencer bolts (2), #44 in picture. Looks like these are the only 2 bolts securing carb to block.","Remove intake silencer bolts (2), #44 in picture. Looks like these are the only 2 bolts securing carb to block.",thanks Chawk_Man +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.","Yeah, I agree that there are only two bolts holding it on but the problem is access. They are up against the bottom cowling.","Yeah, I agree that there are only two bolts holding it on but the problem is access. They are up against the bottom cowling.",Harness connections look good but I cleaned them ..now back to looking for a common ground thas not right +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.",Look in manual to see if lower cowl can be removed,Look in manual to see if lower cowl can be removed,"Yes, there is a float switch next to each pump." +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.","Though I've never worked on your particular engine, I highly doubt the bottom cowling needs to be removed in order to access the 2 carb bolts. What it sounds like is you don't have the proper tool to remove bolts without removing cowling. This is when owning the service manual for your model/year engine comes in handy, as it specifies the necessary tools and procedure. Invest in one, it's well worth it.","Though I've never worked on your particular engine, I highly doubt the bottom cowling needs to be removed in order to access the 2 carb bolts. What it sounds like is you don't have the proper tool to remove bolts without removing cowling. This is when owning the service manual for your model/year engine comes in handy, as it specifies the necessary tools and procedure. Invest in one, it's well worth it.","Ayuh,.... We see it All the time at iboats too... +It usually has to do with somebody lookin' at an ole OMC Stringer drive, or a Merc 470... Cheap of course... + +There's Nothin' you can say that'll steer 'em away for pizzin' their money into a bottomless pit..." +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.","Try a flexible 1/4 drive extension, it looks like a spring,A universal socket, A wobble extension","Try a flexible 1/4 drive extension, it looks like a spring,A universal socket, A wobble extension","Looks like its right at the water line.... + + +I'd suggest you check the inside to make sure it truly is just ""surface damage""....if it is, I'd be inclined to use epoxy....the depth of the void will tell you if you need any mat or filler. then fair it out and then paint it.... + +I've never seen polyurethane resin used on a boat.....polyester, yes and vinylester too....." +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.",I finally figured it out. The lower cowl has to come off. The bolt on the left is completely hidden. The head of that bolt cannot be seen or reached at all when the cowl is on.,I finally figured it out. The lower cowl has to come off. The bolt on the left is completely hidden. The head of that bolt cannot be seen or reached at all when the cowl is on.,Smart thing to do. +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.","Glad to help,Bullie.","Glad to help,Bullie.",@Chris. 2 stroke 15HP 1992 Johnson. (I've never touched an engine before except to check the oil or add windshield washing fluid) +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Glad to help,Bullie. + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah. Thanks for all you did.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Glad to help,Bullie. + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah. Thanks for all you did.","Boats.net is my go to for OEM parts. Many other online OEM distributors, just google search water pump kit with your model/year." +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.",,,thanks .just boat +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.","This is a shot of the carb from above with the starter rope bracket removed. You can see the bolt on the right clearly. It can be loosened easily enough. Possibly it could be loosened enough to back out of the block, I didn't check. As you can see the air silencer is nearly touching the lower cowl so there is no access to the left side bolt from above or the side. The lower cowl is 2 pieces held by clips and bolts at the top (above the shifter and tiller arm) and bolts underneath. When those are removed there is easy access to the carb bolts for removal or any other necessary maintenance. + +Thought I would add a picture and a brief explanation in case someone searched this motor or issue as there is very little information about it out there on the world wide interweb. Might help someone out down the road.","This is a shot of the carb from above with the starter rope bracket removed. You can see the bolt on the right clearly. It can be loosened easily enough. Possibly it could be loosened enough to back out of the block, I didn't check. As you can see the air silencer is nearly touching the lower cowl so there is no access to the left side bolt from above or the side. The lower cowl is 2 pieces held by clips and bolts at the top (above the shifter and tiller arm) and bolts underneath. When those are removed there is easy access to the carb bolts for removal or any other necessary maintenance. + +Thought I would add a picture and a brief explanation in case someone searched this motor or issue as there is very little information about it out there on the world wide interweb. Might help someone out down the road.","On the left hand side of the motor on the clamp bracket there should be a data plate. The engine ID begins with the number 6. In your case more than likely 6E5L and then some numbers. What are those numbers please? Or, look at the CDI for some numbers and letters. What are they? I suspect 6E5 but you need to confirm this please. + +Is their an oil tank mounted on the motor? Does it look like the oil tank has been removed?" +"1989 3 hp Yamaha 3SF is having some carb issues. It had some skunky gas in it for years I guess. Anyway, how do I get access to the carb bolts? I have stared at it for a good while and decided it would be better to ask before messing something up.","Wow, that is tightly packed up against the cowling. Thanks for the visual.","Wow, that is tightly packed up against the cowling. Thanks for the visual.","Make sure you drilled out all rivets between the cap and the hull. Also, I have seen a boat where they intermittently laid a piece of glass cloth between the cap and the hull in the side. I had to first cut through those before I could separate them." +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Sorry, it is an 115 hp engine","Sorry, it is an 115 hp engine",If it says YAMAHA on the cowling its a good engine. Yamaha produces the best outboards in the world in my opinion. I may have my complaints here and there about Yamaha engineering but without a doubt they run and run and run so long as you maintain them. Look at any military or coast guard boat and even commercial crabbers/fishermen... what are they running? Almost always Yamaha. +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com",F150 and 2 stroke ??-------------------Post the model number of your motor first.,F150 and 2 stroke ??-------------------Post the model number of your motor first.,"The chart is just a quick ref for lead acid. There certainly will be variances for temp, but generally speeking I use 70 deg F as a ref +when talking generalizations. One poster said he was told his batteries are good when charged at 12.0 VDC and replied 12.0 VDC isn't a good charge. So if it's around 70 deg F and batteries are lead acid, then the chart could be handy. Suppose I should have stated that in last post. + +Thanks Again! I'll be able to look at it (The chart), keeping in mind the low temps around here now. It's no blizzard like you have, but it's still about fifty degrees. I know, we are wusses out here. My sis lives in Vermont, they were buried I guess. +Pal" +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Re: Yamaha F115 Two Stroke built year 1999 + + + +racerone said: + + + + F150 and 2 stroke ??-------------------Post the model number of your motor first. + +Click to expand... + + +Sorry, I will pick up the boat on monday, it is an F115 Two Stroke V4","Re: Yamaha F115 Two Stroke built year 1999 + + + +racerone said: + + + + F150 and 2 stroke ??-------------------Post the model number of your motor first. + +Click to expand... + + +Sorry, I will pick up the boat on monday, it is an F115 Two Stroke V4","Fuel issue. Start with new filters, pull the VST and clean it and check the pumps, then pull the fuel rail and injectors, clean the rail and have the injectors professionally serviced.... This is how you repair this issue. Do not skip any of these steps...." +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com",The F generally means a 4 stroke model.------------------Post model number !,The F generally means a 4 stroke model.------------------Post model number !,"papyson said: + + + + how much was rhe compression and how far would the spark jump? + +Click to expand... + +can remember compression figures off hand but they were well within range and even. +just tried spark test in the dark, +seemd to be jumping about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch but to me looks weak . +same on all coils, +was going to try timming but my timming light has packed up. +if it is weak spark on all cylinders what would most likly be the cause , cdi or stator" +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","If it is a 1999 115hp V4 2 stroke then it is most likely a Salt Water Series (SWS) engine (not F series). The SWS engines in some HP ratings did have a weakness in the Piston Wrist Pins. If run overloaded they could start to fail and you get a clanking/knocking noise at idle that may go away a bit once you raise the rpms. You can check this (and the big end bearing tightness) but raising each cylinder to just past TDC and then pushing a dowel through the spark plug hole onto the top of the piston and pushing sharply down to see if there is any movement and noise from the bad nearing/pin. It is a 10 minuted test. +In general the SWS115 is a pretty solid and reliable engine, but sometimes known for using more fuel that you might normally expect from a 115.","If it is a 1999 115hp V4 2 stroke then it is most likely a Salt Water Series (SWS) engine (not F series). The SWS engines in some HP ratings did have a weakness in the Piston Wrist Pins. If run overloaded they could start to fail and you get a clanking/knocking noise at idle that may go away a bit once you raise the rpms. You can check this (and the big end bearing tightness) but raising each cylinder to just past TDC and then pushing a dowel through the spark plug hole onto the top of the piston and pushing sharply down to see if there is any movement and noise from the bad nearing/pin. It is a 10 minuted test. +In general the SWS115 is a pretty solid and reliable engine, but sometimes known for using more fuel that you might normally expect from a 115.","I say another fuel flow issue. Old ethanol fuel has gummed up as the retirees don't use it enough, won't spend the $ on 100% gas if its available and won't pay to add fuel treatment at every fuel fill all the time. Check my response to another posted tonight. Welcome to the joys of this crap 10%ethanol gas we've had forced on us." +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","How about let's first start with learning from you the basics, other than your model number. + +Where are you hearing this metallic scrambling coming from....under the cowling, from lower unit? Since the engine starts, what happens with this sound as you increase rpms in neutral? What happens with this sound as you increase rpms in gear? Any smoke when it's running, other than normal exhaust. Odd smells? Might want to first check the flywheel cover. If it's mounted too low, you will hear the sound you've described, despite the cover not being metal. + +The more details you provide this forum, the more accurate thus better suggestions you'll receive.","How about let's first start with learning from you the basics, other than your model number. + +Where are you hearing this metallic scrambling coming from....under the cowling, from lower unit? Since the engine starts, what happens with this sound as you increase rpms in neutral? What happens with this sound as you increase rpms in gear? Any smoke when it's running, other than normal exhaust. Odd smells? Might want to first check the flywheel cover. If it's mounted too low, you will hear the sound you've described, despite the cover not being metal. + +The more details you provide this forum, the more accurate thus better suggestions you'll receive.",coming from someone who has built trailers for for 20yrs.....axle too far forward...buy a welder or rent one. you are wasting your time any other way... +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Try using a screwdriver as a stethoscope and your ear and probe around head, mid case ,lower unit","Try using a screwdriver as a stethoscope and your ear and probe around head, mid case ,lower unit","racerone said: + + + + Is this a 4 stroke ?-----Strange that you would mix gas and oil to "" break in "" a 4 stroke.-----In my opinion break in is hardly needed with precision manufacturing of today. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for reply, +Its a 2 stroke manual says 25:1 to break in and then 100:1 after that +The Yamaha dealer said 50:1 then 100:1" +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Re: Yamaha 150 Two Stroke built year 1998Hi + +Hi all and thank you for being patient :rolleyes: +Yesturday I picked upp the boat and engine and the engine is of a model Yamaha 150BETO year V and Long Stem. +So it is of the second built generation, with electric start and elektro-hydraulic tilt/trim, autolub, long stem and built year is 1998 + +I have not started it yetand will most likely not do within the next week. + +I have bought and downloaded a file containing Service Manuals for 8 different versions amongst mine (mine is of 209 pages and have several good split view schematics). + +What I am first of all interest in now is to know the common mechanical issues this is related to, what is its weak spots, in what area did the engineers not sucssed soo very well + +The engine looks really good and so, and I am very excited to get started","Re: Yamaha 150 Two Stroke built year 1998Hi + +Hi all and thank you for being patient :rolleyes: +Yesturday I picked upp the boat and engine and the engine is of a model Yamaha 150BETO year V and Long Stem. +So it is of the second built generation, with electric start and elektro-hydraulic tilt/trim, autolub, long stem and built year is 1998 + +I have not started it yetand will most likely not do within the next week. + +I have bought and downloaded a file containing Service Manuals for 8 different versions amongst mine (mine is of 209 pages and have several good split view schematics). + +What I am first of all interest in now is to know the common mechanical issues this is related to, what is its weak spots, in what area did the engineers not sucssed soo very well + +The engine looks really good and so, and I am very excited to get started",What year is your engine? +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","ClassicAQ said: + + + + How about let's first start with learning from you the basics, other than your model number. + +Where are you hearing this metallic scrambling coming from....under the cowling, from lower unit? Since the engine starts, what happens with this sound as you increase rpms in neutral? What happens with this sound as you increase rpms in gear? Any smoke when it's running, other than normal exhaust. Odd smells? Might want to first check the flywheel cover. If it's mounted too low, you will hear the sound you've described, despite the cover not being metal. + +The more details you provide this forum, the more accurate thus better suggestions you'll receive. + +Click to expand... + + +See above for my previous response to your initial thread question. We don't know what this issue is related to until you first determine where the metallic noise is coming from.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + How about let's first start with learning from you the basics, other than your model number. + +Where are you hearing this metallic scrambling coming from....under the cowling, from lower unit? Since the engine starts, what happens with this sound as you increase rpms in neutral? What happens with this sound as you increase rpms in gear? Any smoke when it's running, other than normal exhaust. Odd smells? Might want to first check the flywheel cover. If it's mounted too low, you will hear the sound you've described, despite the cover not being metal. + +The more details you provide this forum, the more accurate thus better suggestions you'll receive. + +Click to expand... + + +See above for my previous response to your initial thread question. We don't know what this issue is related to until you first determine where the metallic noise is coming from.",Glad to hear you fixed it... Next time if it is more difficult and a short piece of wire doesn't fix it... Use weed trimmer line that will snake its way back through everything and clear a clog without causing damage. +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com",Make a video with sound and post it eddievan,Make a video with sound and post it eddievan,So the sticker says F40LA and then next line is 6BG L 1008188 F . No I was not aware of a VST fuel pump bulletin. I'm not sure if the number I provided is the s/n or not. It is up at a cabin so not easy to work on or get this information right away. Appreciate feedback and I can call dealer too and see if there is a bulletin related to this. +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com",Be very clear!--------Is this a V-4 or a V-6.,Be very clear!--------Is this a V-4 or a V-6.,"Burnblaze said: + + + + hey so I found the oil tank connection, was tied up underneath the block. I forgot to ask what the blue cable with the bullet connection is for, have you seen this? + +Click to expand... + +Blue is the wire colour for a solenoid activated choke. Which your model does not have. Thus the wire is not used. Redundant." +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","racerone said: + + + + Be very clear!--------Is this a V-4 or a V-6. + +Click to expand... + + +150 is a V6 + + +This is real simple......If you start the engine and is sounds like a ""can full of rocks being shaken"" The power head needs to be rebuilt. Don't window the block, the core charge is around $300.00","racerone said: + + + + Be very clear!--------Is this a V-4 or a V-6. + +Click to expand... + + +150 is a V6 + + +This is real simple......If you start the engine and is sounds like a ""can full of rocks being shaken"" The power head needs to be rebuilt. Don't window the block, the core charge is around $300.00","shallow offset box wrench....if that doesn't work, I'd take it to a welding shop and let them cut it off w/ a torch..." +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com",One post he talks about a 115 and the next it becomes a 150 again !!,One post he talks about a 115 and the next it becomes a 150 again !!,i quit keeping fish too big for a cooler....they are breeders and not the best of eating fish anyway... +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Hi everybody, I have big problem posting here, this must be my 10th attempt. +The engine has this modelname 115BETO V L +So it is an +115 hp +B Generation (second) +E Electric Start +T Electro-Hydraulic Trim/Tilt +O Autolub +V 1998 +L Long Stem + +I will start the engine within the next week, due to the workload at work, if I would be the one who decided I would do it now + +I will come back with more info along the way, if I solve it I will of course come back with the root casue and the corrective action + +I will not try to attach a pic because then all hell brakes loose + +Thanks for all your replies so far + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Hi everybody, I have big problem posting here, this must be my 10th attempt. +The engine has this modelname 115BETO V L +So it is an +115 hp +B Generation (second) +E Electric Start +T Electro-Hydraulic Trim/Tilt +O Autolub +V 1998 +L Long Stem + +I will start the engine within the next week, due to the workload at work, if I would be the one who decided I would do it now + +I will come back with more info along the way, if I solve it I will of course come back with the root casue and the corrective action + +I will not try to attach a pic because then all hell brakes loose + +Thanks for all your replies so far + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","I have owned the boat for about 2 months . Used I mixed the gas 50:1 I put a little bit more oil . I had some one a guy the works on boats in my area to check the com it is 120 on all cyl, he rebuilt the carb,and I had him him put a water pump in it because the boat had been sitting for an year or two. I cleaned the gas tank out because it had old gas in it . The guy told me it was a fuel problem ,coil .powerpack .or a stator isue. Don't know" +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","racerone said: + + + + one post he talks about a 115 and the next it becomes a 150 again !! + +Click to expand... + + + +i give up!","racerone said: + + + + one post he talks about a 115 and the next it becomes a 150 again !! + +Click to expand... + + + +i give up!",oh well ----Post #2 and 4 seem totally different.----No need to confuse the owner of this motor ! -------When the lower unit is off and impeller is off it is easy to turn the lower unit.------In forward / reverse / neutral makes no difference !! +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com",The insanity has begun,The insanity has begun,Wild guess? might be printed on top or side of battery +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Re: Yamaha F115 Two Stroke built year 1998 + + + +Docksidemarineservices said: + + + +I give up![/QUOTE] + +Haha please do ... + +Click to expand...","Re: Yamaha F115 Two Stroke built year 1998 + + + +Docksidemarineservices said: + + + +I give up![/QUOTE] + +Haha please do ... + +Click to expand...","Leaking hulls often turn into "" breaking "" hulls.-----------Not for me to go out on big water with one." +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","johnnygjr said: + + + + The insanity has begun + +Click to expand... + + +How do you mean, is the member Docksidemarineservices an ""insane"" person?","johnnygjr said: + + + + The insanity has begun + +Click to expand... + + +How do you mean, is the member Docksidemarineservices an ""insane"" person?",Thanks for sharing your solution. Please do share how you diagnosed and discovered those defective wires so others here don't have to go through what I recomended. +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","The exact model name is as follows +115BETO V L +115 hp +B Generation (second) +E Electric Start +T Electro-Hydraulic Trim/Tilt +O Autolub +V 1998 +L Long Stem","The exact model name is as follows +115BETO V L +115 hp +B Generation (second) +E Electric Start +T Electro-Hydraulic Trim/Tilt +O Autolub +V 1998 +L Long Stem",If you only going to use the down imaging go with a cheaper unit... +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Hi, I havent yet started the engine, I only have what the seller said. +My post is more to be interpered as ""when a mechanical failure occur in the power head (like piston seals, pistons, bearings etc), what is the most common failure"", ""what are this engines weak spots"". + +Thanks","Hi, I havent yet started the engine, I only have what the seller said. +My post is more to be interpered as ""when a mechanical failure occur in the power head (like piston seals, pistons, bearings etc), what is the most common failure"", ""what are this engines weak spots"". + +Thanks","A 47 year old motor. Spare parts all but impossible to find. Internal condition unknown. + +Might be worth more in the form of a tax donation to a charitable organization if you have such in the UK. + +Contact Yamaha UK and see if they are interested in the motor for historical purposes. Yamaha USA once had one on display in their lobby. + +Everything old does not have value. Sadly to say. + +Having said all of my rubbish, put it up on ebay, craigslist or something similar and see what happens. You might stumble on someone who's dad had that model back in the day. He may want to give his pops a nostalgic gift." +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Today I found out this +1. Spark plug with metal pitting and no comp in the left lower cylinder +2. spark plug with metal pitting in the lower right cylinder +3. Both thermostates normal and no dirt or oxidation +4. Engine borescoped with evidence of severe damage in one cylinder, most likely lower left + +Attaching a picture + +whaf would you think is the most probable cause?","Today I found out this +1. Spark plug with metal pitting and no comp in the left lower cylinder +2. spark plug with metal pitting in the lower right cylinder +3. Both thermostates normal and no dirt or oxidation +4. Engine borescoped with evidence of severe damage in one cylinder, most likely lower left + +Attaching a picture + +whaf would you think is the most probable cause?",Very much appreciated!!!!!! +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com",Outboard motors are really well built.--------------Owners find new ways to damage them every day.,Outboard motors are really well built.--------------Owners find new ways to damage them every day.,Figured it out. Stuff on the concrete is from underneath head. +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","racerone said: + + + + Outboard motors are really well built.--------------Owners find new ways to damage them every day. + +Click to expand... + + +Please dont hold back, please explain further of what you believie could be the mechanical root cause to this damage.","racerone said: + + + + Outboard motors are really well built.--------------Owners find new ways to damage them every day. + +Click to expand... + + +Please dont hold back, please explain further of what you believie could be the mechanical root cause to this damage.","Replace the squeeze ball and make sure you are not sucking air....If problem continues, it might be time to service the VST and injectors." +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","eddievan said: + + + + How do you mean, is the member Docksidemarineservices an ""insane"" person? + +Click to expand... + +, + + + +No Eddie Van Hagar, I am not insane, Boating season is....and My signature on my posts, if you read it, says..""Let the insanity begin"" Boating season is just that, SEASONAL. We have to earn a whole years salary in a short time....For NJ it is from the end of May til Sept. That is cramming a years worth the work for a desk Chair rider into approximately a 16 to 20 month window working long, days seven days a week. + + +SO, when you ask for advice here on this ""free"" web service that ""we few Paid Professionals"" chose to help you with ""your"" + boat problems....You could just do a little research on your own set up so ""we"" know what ""we"" are trying to give you FREE ADVICE on.","eddievan said: + + + + How do you mean, is the member Docksidemarineservices an ""insane"" person? + +Click to expand... + +, + + + +No Eddie Van Hagar, I am not insane, Boating season is....and My signature on my posts, if you read it, says..""Let the insanity begin"" Boating season is just that, SEASONAL. We have to earn a whole years salary in a short time....For NJ it is from the end of May til Sept. That is cramming a years worth the work for a desk Chair rider into approximately a 16 to 20 month window working long, days seven days a week. + + +SO, when you ask for advice here on this ""free"" web service that ""we few Paid Professionals"" chose to help you with ""your"" + boat problems....You could just do a little research on your own set up so ""we"" know what ""we"" are trying to give you FREE ADVICE on.","Your English is great. Better than my parlez vous francais. + +Regarding the shifting from neutral into forward and neutral into reverse I presume you are talking about when the motor is running. I would make sure that both the throttle and shift cables are securely attached in the motor. The clip that holds them in place has been known to come loose which can affect either the throttle cable or the shift cable. + +The motor should be in neutral when the lower unit is removed. When servicing the lower unit the shift control should not be moved. Having said that, it sounds like yours are out of phase. I have used a pair of channel lock type pliers with the jaws padded so as to not damage the shift rod splines. You can go in one direction to find reverse and then go in the other direction to find forward. Then split the difference which will be neutral. Once in neutral confirm it by making sure the propeller shaft turns freely in both directions. If it is difficult to shift the motor into a gear have someone turn the propeller shaft as it will help it to shift. + +Reinstall the lower unit making sure the shift rod and shift shaft splines line up. Secure the lower unit in place with just one bolt. Running the motor on flush muffs start and let it idle. Make sure that it shifts freely from neutral to forward, to neutral to reverse, then back to neutral. If it does, install and tighten the rest of the bolts." +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","racerone said: + + + + Outboard motors are really well built.--------------Owners find new ways to damage them every day. + +Click to expand... + + +Love this one. Most accurate statement ever.","racerone said: + + + + Outboard motors are really well built.--------------Owners find new ways to damage them every day. + +Click to expand... + + +Love this one. Most accurate statement ever.",keep it simple with batteries is my motto... +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Chris thanks for explaining ""insanity has begun"" to eddievan, johnny","Chris thanks for explaining ""insanity has begun"" to eddievan, johnny","So we have spark,but still have a fuel restriction issue, but engine has run, How long has it stayed running? Thread#1 +3 says she runs after initial startup,for how long? Check to see if you have fuel from tank to primer bulb, bulb to pump, pump to carbs pulling fuel lines off and on as you go. Is fuel system vented properly? Any lines collapsing? Kinked? water/fuel separator clogged,leaking air anywhere in system? If you have fuel to carbs. read post#9. A little more history please,Engine is new to you correct? How long was she stored? Old fuel in tank from previous owner? Is battery fully charged and turning over a least 200-300 rpm?" +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Love this one. Most accurate statement ever. + +Click to expand... + + +Okay, so instead of spending time with work you are at this forum telling people how bissi you are this time of the year and that they are stupid *******s, right?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Love this one. Most accurate statement ever. + +Click to expand... + + +Okay, so instead of spending time with work you are at this forum telling people how bissi you are this time of the year and that they are stupid *******s, right?","dward said: + + + + On the hard start when warm problem, the 04 and 05 F150s have a starting when warm problem that Yamaha put a bulletin and ""fix"" on, but only if the owner brought it in. The repair was covered under warranty, so now it won't be covered any more. I have a copy of the bulletin that I can send if you pm an email to send it to. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi dward, I am having a ""warm start"" problem on my almost new Yamaha F30B (4 stroke). If you still have that bulletin, I would appreciate a copy as it might just point me in the right direction. Thanks [email protected]" +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","IF you would have read my initial post you would have understood that I was not asking for the exact reason for the problem of my particular engine, I was asking a general question that relates to engines ""like mine"" (understood as Yamahas, V4:s and about the same built-generation). +And yes, I made a couple of err when naming my egine model (I dont know why I wrote 150 a couple of times but I did, BUT I did wrote that I have just bought the engine and that I have not yet inspected it myself, nor seen any engine plate naming the exact model). + +Instead you go on nagging about how stupid people are, damaging their engines. +You should be glad people that they are just doing that, because that is just what puts your food on the table, and if you cant handle that you are in the wrong business.","IF you would have read my initial post you would have understood that I was not asking for the exact reason for the problem of my particular engine, I was asking a general question that relates to engines ""like mine"" (understood as Yamahas, V4:s and about the same built-generation). +And yes, I made a couple of err when naming my egine model (I dont know why I wrote 150 a couple of times but I did, BUT I did wrote that I have just bought the engine and that I have not yet inspected it myself, nor seen any engine plate naming the exact model). + +Instead you go on nagging about how stupid people are, damaging their engines. +You should be glad people that they are just doing that, because that is just what puts your food on the table, and if you cant handle that you are in the wrong business.","Update + +I pulled the intake manifold and then cleaned out the vapor separator and replace the filter in the separator and also in the water separator. I also replaced the spark plugs and replaced the gas hose between the tank outlet and the 'T' where the fuel line splits for both motors. It took quite a while to get this done (not much spare time) and I also cleaned out the jets of the 9.9hp motor's carb. Last Sunday we had a warm day, so I pulled it out into the driveway and tested the motors. After I squeezed the gas bulb for the 115 what felt like a hundred times, and finally the VST was filled. I turned the key on and off a couple of times, and then the 115 started instantly and idled. However when I put it in gear and revved it up, it got rough and sometimes died when I returned to idle. I pulled one fuel injector lead at a time and I had 3 that were relatively equal and had very little effect when I pulled a connector. When I pulled #4 fuel injector lead, the motor almost died. #4 was way stronger than the others, so it appeared that I had 3 partially clogged injectors. Mills, you were right, fuel injectors are cheap on Ebay, so I purchased 4 and installed them. I haven't test run it yet. I've also replaced the trim angle rheostat so now Mark can see how his boat is trimmed without turning his head around. I'm not sure that I'd spend the $160 for the new rheostat or not, but he wanted it working. I can't bring the motor all the way down because it hits the roller on the trailer, so I'll have to fine tune this when I get it in the water or rig up a way to slide the boat back on the trailer. + +When I went to start the 9.9 there was a fuel leak out of the bottom of the carb from what looks like an accelerator pump. I've got a new diaphram ordered. + +With all the rain we've had, the lakes are almost all the way back up to normal pool, so in the next couple of weeks I should get to test it properly." +"Hi, I have just bought a motorboat with an Engine with an known issue but the cause is not found. +It starts up fine but it makes a metallic scrambling sound that of course does not sounds good. + +I know that it could be ""anything"" and its is inmpossible to tell without more information but I talk generally here, what known mechanical problems are there and how likely are they? +F.ex. A failing Crankshaft Bearing, how likely is it compared to a broken Piston Head Packing, etc. etc you get the point + +Q1 does this model have any typical known mechanical/material problems with crank shaft bearings, piston seals, spur or beavel gears? +Q2 What is the most likely causes and how could it be fixet? + + +Please dont reply like ""are you stupid, how are we gonna tell you the problem with yor engine out of that"", please bear in mind that I asks the most likel y casuses, not whats the exact casue is + +Thanks for your time .. + +Bo +www.eddievan.com","IT's not nice to berate the people that are trying to help you"" For free"",good luck with your project, I give up also,and hope others follow suit, It's not nice to bite the hand that feeds you, Very good advice from an elder.","IT's not nice to berate the people that are trying to help you"" For free"",good luck with your project, I give up also,and hope others follow suit, It's not nice to bite the hand that feeds you, Very good advice from an elder.","Thanks for the replies. I will test the wiring at the helm and see what happens and will keep you informed. +Regards, +Noochie" +"Working on the oil system and need to know how it works????? + +The tank under the floor has an electric pump and a switch on it (motor) to feed when the tank on the motor when low. + +Isin't it supposed to feed when the motor runs? + +What sender sends a signal to the pump to feed the tank on the motor?? + +The tank(both) and lines were clogged with algae or white muck. +I cleaned them out and put in new oil(threw out the old) and flushed the lines. + +Any literature on this?? + +This is the 3rd Yam in 1 year I've worked on with the oil algae growing in it. +I heard diesel fuel and some oils can grow algae or the sludge?? + +Thanks, Jerry","You'll have to respond back with your model/year for accurate answers to your questions. Yam engines have numerous different oil mechanisms. I'll try to answer what i can, but it might not apply to your engine. + +Yes, the electric pump on the remote oil tank fills the engines main oil tank. It does this not only when the engine is running but also when ignition key is in ON position. On the engines main tank there are level marks. The remote tank senses when the main tank level is below the lowest mark and fills it. The oil harness is the sender, connected to main tank and reserve tank. + +Im lost as to how anything would penetrate either the oil hose (containing oil) or the sender harness. The remote tank has a screw on cap that seals the tank. But if either are laying in a corrosive environment I suppose they could be penetrated. + +Information about the oil system is contained in the service manual specific to your model/year. Unlike the owners manual, the service manual is purchased either online or at a yamaha dealer.","You'll have to respond back with your model/year for accurate answers to your questions. Yam engines have numerous different oil mechanisms. I'll try to answer what i can, but it might not apply to your engine. + +Yes, the electric pump on the remote oil tank fills the engines main oil tank. It does this not only when the engine is running but also when ignition key is in ON position. On the engines main tank there are level marks. The remote tank senses when the main tank level is below the lowest mark and fills it. The oil harness is the sender, connected to main tank and reserve tank. + +Im lost as to how anything would penetrate either the oil hose (containing oil) or the sender harness. The remote tank has a screw on cap that seals the tank. But if either are laying in a corrosive environment I suppose they could be penetrated. + +Information about the oil system is contained in the service manual specific to your model/year. Unlike the owners manual, the service manual is purchased either online or at a yamaha dealer.","If there is spark, yes you can rule out the kill switch." +"Working on the oil system and need to know how it works????? + +The tank under the floor has an electric pump and a switch on it (motor) to feed when the tank on the motor when low. + +Isin't it supposed to feed when the motor runs? + +What sender sends a signal to the pump to feed the tank on the motor?? + +The tank(both) and lines were clogged with algae or white muck. +I cleaned them out and put in new oil(threw out the old) and flushed the lines. + +Any literature on this?? + +This is the 3rd Yam in 1 year I've worked on with the oil algae growing in it. +I heard diesel fuel and some oils can grow algae or the sludge?? + +Thanks, Jerry","Sorry about the no model/year(rookie mistake) +2005 200hp. SX200TXRD +You pretty much answered my question. + +The algae is from moisture(mold). + +IF??? the boat sets for long periods and the condensation forms the oil grows mold/algae. + +The mold is heavier than the oil and in the early stages it's small enough to go from one tank to another and then when the boat is used the oil is agitated and then it tries to flow and the build up flows into the pump and lines blocking it off. +The tank is full and can't tell it's blocked and POW engine failure.","Sorry about the no model/year(rookie mistake) +2005 200hp. SX200TXRD +You pretty much answered my question. + +The algae is from moisture(mold). + +IF??? the boat sets for long periods and the condensation forms the oil grows mold/algae. + +The mold is heavier than the oil and in the early stages it's small enough to go from one tank to another and then when the boat is used the oil is agitated and then it tries to flow and the build up flows into the pump and lines blocking it off. +The tank is full and can't tell it's blocked and POW engine failure.",Its the lower mounting dampener. +"Working on the oil system and need to know how it works????? + +The tank under the floor has an electric pump and a switch on it (motor) to feed when the tank on the motor when low. + +Isin't it supposed to feed when the motor runs? + +What sender sends a signal to the pump to feed the tank on the motor?? + +The tank(both) and lines were clogged with algae or white muck. +I cleaned them out and put in new oil(threw out the old) and flushed the lines. + +Any literature on this?? + +This is the 3rd Yam in 1 year I've worked on with the oil algae growing in it. +I heard diesel fuel and some oils can grow algae or the sludge?? + +Thanks, Jerry","No prob. I was hoping my previous response would be accurate to your model/year, not knowing the model/year. But yep, your engine uses the oil harness as the sender. And they ain't cheap either. And I now know more about algae then I could have hoped for. Good to know, thanks.","No prob. I was hoping my previous response would be accurate to your model/year, not knowing the model/year. But yep, your engine uses the oil harness as the sender. And they ain't cheap either. And I now know more about algae then I could have hoped for. Good to know, thanks.","I guess I should have clarified........they are aluminum pontoons, 20' long, approximately 24"" diameter" +"Working on the oil system and need to know how it works????? + +The tank under the floor has an electric pump and a switch on it (motor) to feed when the tank on the motor when low. + +Isin't it supposed to feed when the motor runs? + +What sender sends a signal to the pump to feed the tank on the motor?? + +The tank(both) and lines were clogged with algae or white muck. +I cleaned them out and put in new oil(threw out the old) and flushed the lines. + +Any literature on this?? + +This is the 3rd Yam in 1 year I've worked on with the oil algae growing in it. +I heard diesel fuel and some oils can grow algae or the sludge?? + +Thanks, Jerry",It's a pain cleaning them out but I'd suggest everyone check their tanks.,It's a pain cleaning them out but I'd suggest everyone check their tanks.,"chawk_man said: + + + + After checking just about everything possible, I rigged the antenna up to another radio on the boat. Same problem. Then installed another antenna, and all is fine. Bad antenna - apparently something wrong with the shielding or the leads. Thanks all for your input and help. + +Click to expand... + + +Kind of didn't think of that since you stated it was a new whip, but new stuff is bad sometimes." +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,"I'm assuming this is a 2 stroke carb'd motor since you're spraying carb cleaner. Let us know if not. When was the last time you pulled the carbs and cleaned the jets, checked height of floats? + +The chemical products you're using, sea foam and carb cleaner, will not solve engine problems. Sea foam in particular is a preventative maintenance product. Carb cleaner should be used only when cleaning deconstructed carb parts, such as using it to soak jets to loosen debris. Despite the intended uses of carb cleaner, which is written on the can, when you spray it into the throttle body it also eats the lubrication provided by the engine oil.","I'm assuming this is a 2 stroke carb'd motor since you're spraying carb cleaner. Let us know if not. When was the last time you pulled the carbs and cleaned the jets, checked height of floats? + +The chemical products you're using, sea foam and carb cleaner, will not solve engine problems. Sea foam in particular is a preventative maintenance product. Carb cleaner should be used only when cleaning deconstructed carb parts, such as using it to soak jets to loosen debris. Despite the intended uses of carb cleaner, which is written on the can, when you spray it into the throttle body it also eats the lubrication provided by the engine oil.","Another suggested a 1/4"" impact driver and Phillips bit, which sounds pretty good. I'll have to borrow one from a friend. I am dousing it in Kroil, though I am skeptical that the fastener will be affected as I have noted through-bolts and their keeper-nuts seem to take to Kroil's penetration better than fasteners. Are these parts assembled at the factory with Red Locktite? Oh boy! I'll let you know how this goes. It ain't over till the Fat Lady sings..." +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,How good is the fuel you're using ??,How good is the fuel you're using ??,Happy that everything went smoothly. Good work. +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,"Old fuel from last year? New fuel mixed with old? History on motor would help, First use this year? New owner of engine and boat? Was it stored properly last season? Serial # might help,year, What's your starting procedure? Any problems last year? The fact that once started she runs great eliminates compression and spark issues, Pull a fuel bowl and take a look before pulling carbs,it might give a clue, if not thread #2, Pull carbs,soak and clean thoroughly every nook and cranny,jets etc.","Old fuel from last year? New fuel mixed with old? History on motor would help, First use this year? New owner of engine and boat? Was it stored properly last season? Serial # might help,year, What's your starting procedure? Any problems last year? The fact that once started she runs great eliminates compression and spark issues, Pull a fuel bowl and take a look before pulling carbs,it might give a clue, if not thread #2, Pull carbs,soak and clean thoroughly every nook and cranny,jets etc.",Or an air leak in hoses or pick-up tube inside your tank. +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,"Stop using starting fluid on your engine! + + +After you post what your engine is, 2 stroke or 4 stroke..... + +You need to verify a good ignition spark at cranking speed.","Stop using starting fluid on your engine! + + +After you post what your engine is, 2 stroke or 4 stroke..... + +You need to verify a good ignition spark at cranking speed.","3 + +I would of thought so the spark is very good well thats wot my mate has said" +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,My mate has a Yamaha 50hp two stroke I bought it new in 2013 and has had troubles missing thought it was dirty fuel it played up yesterday limped back to ramp pulled bottom plug out and the end looked like it had been smacked on the end did a pressure test and nothing what's your thoughts has the piston come a drift,My mate has a Yamaha 50hp two stroke I bought it new in 2013 and has had troubles missing thought it was dirty fuel it played up yesterday limped back to ramp pulled bottom plug out and the end looked like it had been smacked on the end did a pressure test and nothing what's your thoughts has the piston come a drift,"Considering the engines age, there is good chance the cooling system has corrosion that is blocking the necessary passages needed for cooling the engine. Pull the head covers off and look at the condition of these passages. When you replaced the thermostat, what did the old stat look like? Because if it was in bad condition, such as corroded, that is a good indicator of how the cooling system looks." +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,I just bought this boat & 150hp rig this spring. Its ben setting in a garage for 2 years. The previous owner said hed only cranked it about once a mo using the muffs. Im not a mech at all on this engine. It scares me to even think about making matters worse. It looks like its got 6 carbs. Yes its a 2 stroke. The starting fluid im using is susposed to be for 2 stroke motors. It has upper lubrication in it. The napa clerk said it was ok. I believed him. That alone shows you how smart i am. It ha a good spark. Itl knock your #$/& off. Il have to find ser #. I do know its a 91 mod.,I just bought this boat & 150hp rig this spring. Its ben setting in a garage for 2 years. The previous owner said hed only cranked it about once a mo using the muffs. Im not a mech at all on this engine. It scares me to even think about making matters worse. It looks like its got 6 carbs. Yes its a 2 stroke. The starting fluid im using is susposed to be for 2 stroke motors. It has upper lubrication in it. The napa clerk said it was ok. I believed him. That alone shows you how smart i am. It ha a good spark. Itl knock your #$/& off. Il have to find ser #. I do know its a 91 mod.,just rember when selecting. transformers create a lot of electrolisis isolation style or high freq should be considered. quality comes with a price here. +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,Are you using the correct starting procedure ?----Is choke or primer working properly ?,Are you using the correct starting procedure ?----Is choke or primer working properly ?,Oh I know that Yamaha data is confusing all right. Lots gets lost in the translation from Jap to English. +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,I think so. As the motor turns over i smell gas like its flooded.,I think so. As the motor turns over i smell gas like its flooded.,"""Even going with 2 micron will + +""Even going with 2 micron will not solve problem because the filter can not gaurantee 100% separation of gas & water,racor from what I have read state 99% to nearly 100% filtration which means the system will have water in it however small the amount, going by the Honda tech the water molecule & gas molecule will combine to make a solid if left sitting in the tank within a 3 week period & I know this is true because I have seen it with my own eyes & trust me it is not worth messing with.I only use what Honda tells me,flow rates are different & you have to have the right filter for your application.Good luck & if doubtful of what I am saying check with your outboard dealer to make sure I wouldn't want anyone broke down when the bite is on!""" +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,"Moonshiner said: + + + + I think so. As the motor turns over i smell gas like its flooded. + +Click to expand... + + +Does the squeeze ball get hard and does it stay hard when you apply constant pressure to it?","Moonshiner said: + + + + I think so. As the motor turns over i smell gas like its flooded. + +Click to expand... + + +Does the squeeze ball get hard and does it stay hard when you apply constant pressure to it?","Hmm... had an issue on my johnson 20 that when I raised the throttle it would surge like crazy. cdi box was the problem, swapped it out and it cured the problem" +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,Yes the bulb gets hard but after it sets for a while it does loose its firmness. It seems like has to be in the fuel system because it runs and idles to good. But here again im no mechanic.,Yes the bulb gets hard but after it sets for a while it does loose its firmness. It seems like has to be in the fuel system because it runs and idles to good. But here again im no mechanic.,"Despite it starting with starter fluid, check the spark plugs. After you installed rebuilt carbs did you time/sync?" +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,"Ser. 351478 +Mod. PROV150LD","Ser. 351478 +Mod. PROV150LD",Alright I appreciate it. Im pretty mechanical inclined and know how to wire stuff on vehicles up just haven't ever worked on as boat and don't want it to catch on fire in the middle of the lake +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,"Moonshiner said: + + + + Yes the bulb gets hard but after it sets for a while it does loose its firmness. It seems like has to be in the fuel system because it runs and idles to good. But here again im no mechanic. + +Click to expand... + + +After the bulb gets hard, if you keep constant pressure on it does it stay hard or does it slowly collapse?","Moonshiner said: + + + + Yes the bulb gets hard but after it sets for a while it does loose its firmness. It seems like has to be in the fuel system because it runs and idles to good. But here again im no mechanic. + +Click to expand... + + +After the bulb gets hard, if you keep constant pressure on it does it stay hard or does it slowly collapse?","Still having intermittent issues with the port engine, Main/PTT fuse. Mechanic says he found a loose connection, but I am skeptical. I will be running it this weekend. If the fuse blows, I may replace the fuse and try not changing the trim for a long time and see if the fuse doesn't blow. I am also doing a visisual of the connections between the engine to the keys as the dash to see if there is anything looking odd, corroded, etc that might be creating a short. These intermittent issues are a pain to troubleshoot." +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,As long as its running i think it stays hard. Its when i shut it off is when it looses it firmness just a little but after around 15 mins. I need to check this out closer. Iv not paid that much attention to it. I will tho. Thanks. I have to wait on one of my fishing buddies to bring their boat too. I dont wont to get stranded again.,As long as its running i think it stays hard. Its when i shut it off is when it looses it firmness just a little but after around 15 mins. I need to check this out closer. Iv not paid that much attention to it. I will tho. Thanks. I have to wait on one of my fishing buddies to bring their boat too. I dont wont to get stranded again.,"I must admit that I have never understood why, in a motor with 4 carbueretors ( 2 of 2 each), would at least 1 or 2 be working enough to start the motor if there was a problem with the others. Must we assume that a problem be experienced by all at the same time? In this post, Llrowley choked the bottom 2 carbs and the motor started." +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + +After the bulb gets hard, if you keep constant pressure on it does it stay hard or does it slowly collapse? + +Click to expand... + +You can check this on the trailer or at the dock with the engine off.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + +After the bulb gets hard, if you keep constant pressure on it does it stay hard or does it slowly collapse? + +Click to expand... + +You can check this on the trailer or at the dock with the engine off.","Engine maintenance is done, we went on test drive, max RPM was 4700, speed was 40km/h when propellers trim was completely down, we pushed it bit up and it made 50km/h at 5000rpm. + +The technician mentioned something about the fins, he thinks the boat will run faster without the fins and suggested to remove them. + +What do you say?" +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,"If it has a manual choke as well as the key operated one like some of them do, try the following - +1) pump the bulb till hard +2) pull out the manual choke +3) lift the fast idle lever until it has moved the idle position up noticeably (some levers do nothing in the first few inches of 'easy' travel). If you have the controls without the fast idle lever push the center 'gear disengage' button in the throttle control lever and lift the idle position using the throttle lever +4) wind the engine over to see if it will kick or start (may take 2 or 3 seconds of winding) +5) as soon as it starts you need to close the choke and pull back the fast idle. If it starts then stops. try starting again without the choke + +We have had a lot of these engines over the past 20 years and the fastest cold start procedure was like this for all of them once they got some age and hours on them. You could wind them over all day without the choke and they wouldn't start.","If it has a manual choke as well as the key operated one like some of them do, try the following - +1) pump the bulb till hard +2) pull out the manual choke +3) lift the fast idle lever until it has moved the idle position up noticeably (some levers do nothing in the first few inches of 'easy' travel). If you have the controls without the fast idle lever push the center 'gear disengage' button in the throttle control lever and lift the idle position using the throttle lever +4) wind the engine over to see if it will kick or start (may take 2 or 3 seconds of winding) +5) as soon as it starts you need to close the choke and pull back the fast idle. If it starts then stops. try starting again without the choke + +We have had a lot of these engines over the past 20 years and the fastest cold start procedure was like this for all of them once they got some age and hours on them. You could wind them over all day without the choke and they wouldn't start.",This sounds typical of vapour lock caused by a blocked fuel cooler +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,"I wont to thank everyone for helping me with my motor troubles. A shadetree mechanic cleaned the carbs, did some adjusting, new bulb, new filter, plugs, & fresh gas. I took it out & thought it was on fire it smoked so much. Spit & sputtered. Whatever he did worked. He would get upset cause i kept tellin him what you all was telling me on this forum. I cant pinpoint what the problem was but a great big thanks to you all.","I wont to thank everyone for helping me with my motor troubles. A shadetree mechanic cleaned the carbs, did some adjusting, new bulb, new filter, plugs, & fresh gas. I took it out & thought it was on fire it smoked so much. Spit & sputtered. Whatever he did worked. He would get upset cause i kept tellin him what you all was telling me on this forum. I cant pinpoint what the problem was but a great big thanks to you all.","based on your description, you have to accumulate more than 10 hours a year...that said, it is still 'low' annual usage. + +All the different battery technology just enables more options to get to something 'optimal' which differs for everybody. I'd suggest, given the use environment and the low hours, just go to WallyWorld and get a group 24 or 27 cheapo starting battery and keep the cables clean and the engine in tune and you won't see too many problems... + +I'd stop using the maintenance charger continuously (in the winter) unless it is one of the newer 'smart chargers'....." +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,Carb. cleaning and fresh fuel works wonders,Carb. cleaning and fresh fuel works wonders,"I assume by ""sensor"" you mean the thermosensor (aka thermoswitch, aka cooling water temperature sensor). There's also an oil pressure switch that will trigger the buzzer. The neutral switch will also trigger it, but it wouldn't allow you to start the engine in that case. + +If the buzzer sounds instantly when the motor is cold, that means you at least have an electrical issue. However it does seem like you're overheating if it's reaching 200F at high speed. Treat these as separate issues, and you'll figure it out. I would address the overheating first. + +When the engine is warmed up and you increase the idle speed in neutral, does the water exit stream get stronger? Or does it still appear weak at that time? If it's still weak then, I would rebuild the water pump as a first step (they sell a repair kit for about $45). While the lower unit is removed, make sure there's no blockages in the water tube that goes up into the fuel cooler. From there, check for blockages in the water exit passageway. + +Basically, I wouldn't do further troubleshooting until you get the temp down below 190F at all times. Then worry about fixing the electrical issue with the sensor triggering the buzzer when it shouldn't be." +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,Your right. Wish everbody could take a lesson from my mistake. Dont ever put your motor up for the winter without completely preparing it. Just a little stabilizer doesnt always work. And it can get costly.,Your right. Wish everbody could take a lesson from my mistake. Dont ever put your motor up for the winter without completely preparing it. Just a little stabilizer doesnt always work. And it can get costly.,"Hi again, + +Yes, it was a simple clog. Thanks everyone, the Yammy is spitting nicely now." +Ive got a yamaha 150 hp outboard. It only starts with starting fluid. After that it itl run like a scalded dog. Itl crank right back up but if i let it set for 10-15 mins it wont start. Back to the starting fluid. Ive run 2 bottles of sea foam through the gas tank & sprayed a half can of carb cleaner in them. Any ideas? Thanks,"Good luck with ""her"", Have a safe happy boating season,","Good luck with ""her"", Have a safe happy boating season,","I've flushed the engine with a hose after every use since I'm on saltwater. When connecting with that hose adapter is shoots the water through quite strong so that doesn't seem clogged at that point. Maybe clogged down lower? + +(Forgive my ignorance, I'm learning)" +"Hi, I have to ask what kind of thermal protection is supplied on this motor? Owner overheated and warranty won't cover it??? Looks like an impeller meltdown, possibly weeds over intake screens. No compression in cylinder #4 and only 84 psi in cylinder #3. #'s 1 and 2 are near 190 psi. Is there an overhaul kit available for this motor? Oil is clean, no particles of any kind. Has less than 50 hours since brand new. The shop that took it apart destroyed the shaft and water pump. Do you think it is worth a repair effort? I have overhauled many outboards in the last 45 years but never a 4 stroke. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks,Tim","His engine has 2 thermoswitch assembly's, 1 on each block. Once the block rises above normal operating temp, the switch grounds and the signal is detected by the multifunction gauge. Audible alarm sounds, subsequently followed by rpm reduction below 2000. Visual notification of high temp alarm can be seen on gauge.","His engine has 2 thermoswitch assembly's, 1 on each block. Once the block rises above normal operating temp, the switch grounds and the signal is detected by the multifunction gauge. Audible alarm sounds, subsequently followed by rpm reduction below 2000. Visual notification of high temp alarm can be seen on gauge.","The flywheel finally came off after a while work. The contacts are rusted and the condensators didn't looked to good, tomorrow we gonna take the bottom part off and check the membranes there. + +So the problem is likely to be this, but now we gotta find the problem." +"Hi, I have to ask what kind of thermal protection is supplied on this motor? Owner overheated and warranty won't cover it??? Looks like an impeller meltdown, possibly weeds over intake screens. No compression in cylinder #4 and only 84 psi in cylinder #3. #'s 1 and 2 are near 190 psi. Is there an overhaul kit available for this motor? Oil is clean, no particles of any kind. Has less than 50 hours since brand new. The shop that took it apart destroyed the shaft and water pump. Do you think it is worth a repair effort? I have overhauled many outboards in the last 45 years but never a 4 stroke. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks,Tim","Okay then, so its impossible that the owner wouldn't have received a warning, unless things weren't hooked up properly by the dealer. I would like to repair his motor but apparently parts for this new of a motor are only available through a dealer, that would make it cost prohibitive for me. Its funny that the dealer, or Yamaha won't consider a fair replacement plan. Its on a brand new pontoon that he purchased in 2015. Is there anybody out there that has experience with repair of the big Yamahas that have overheated?","Okay then, so its impossible that the owner wouldn't have received a warning, unless things weren't hooked up properly by the dealer. I would like to repair his motor but apparently parts for this new of a motor are only available through a dealer, that would make it cost prohibitive for me. Its funny that the dealer, or Yamaha won't consider a fair replacement plan. Its on a brand new pontoon that he purchased in 2015. Is there anybody out there that has experience with repair of the big Yamahas that have overheated?","Forgive my lack of knowledge, what is bonding system?" +"Hi, I have to ask what kind of thermal protection is supplied on this motor? Owner overheated and warranty won't cover it??? Looks like an impeller meltdown, possibly weeds over intake screens. No compression in cylinder #4 and only 84 psi in cylinder #3. #'s 1 and 2 are near 190 psi. Is there an overhaul kit available for this motor? Oil is clean, no particles of any kind. Has less than 50 hours since brand new. The shop that took it apart destroyed the shaft and water pump. Do you think it is worth a repair effort? I have overhauled many outboards in the last 45 years but never a 4 stroke. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks,Tim","Couldn't speculate as to why the alarm did not activate, or if it did why the operator did not respond to the alarm. I do find it unlikely the alarm wasn't hooked up properly since it's a new engine. As far as soliciting repair advice, register on www.yamahaoutboardparts.com + +There are a number of yam pros on that forum who can answer better than i. Start a new thread with complete model/year along with as much description as you can. Good luck.","Couldn't speculate as to why the alarm did not activate, or if it did why the operator did not respond to the alarm. I do find it unlikely the alarm wasn't hooked up properly since it's a new engine. As far as soliciting repair advice, register on www.yamahaoutboardparts.com + +There are a number of yam pros on that forum who can answer better than i. Start a new thread with complete model/year along with as much description as you can. Good luck.","Good luck for rest of summer,Happy boating! Thanks for the reply!" +"Hi, I have to ask what kind of thermal protection is supplied on this motor? Owner overheated and warranty won't cover it??? Looks like an impeller meltdown, possibly weeds over intake screens. No compression in cylinder #4 and only 84 psi in cylinder #3. #'s 1 and 2 are near 190 psi. Is there an overhaul kit available for this motor? Oil is clean, no particles of any kind. Has less than 50 hours since brand new. The shop that took it apart destroyed the shaft and water pump. Do you think it is worth a repair effort? I have overhauled many outboards in the last 45 years but never a 4 stroke. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks,Tim","Okay, so on this engine/motor, there is no shut down if water temperature reaches destructive levels, only the visual/audio warning. That is why an overheat resulting in permanent damage is completely the fault of the operator. Seems to me a poor level of protection for a 14,000.00 unit. My 1,400.00 wood splitter has a low oil shutdown switch......I am amazed at the advancement in technology with little effort applied to protect it in Yamahas case here. +I thank you for your suggestions and I will probably incorporate a thermal switch to shut this thing down, once my repairs are complete. Take, care, Tim","Okay, so on this engine/motor, there is no shut down if water temperature reaches destructive levels, only the visual/audio warning. That is why an overheat resulting in permanent damage is completely the fault of the operator. Seems to me a poor level of protection for a 14,000.00 unit. My 1,400.00 wood splitter has a low oil shutdown switch......I am amazed at the advancement in technology with little effort applied to protect it in Yamahas case here. +I thank you for your suggestions and I will probably incorporate a thermal switch to shut this thing down, once my repairs are complete. Take, care, Tim",thanks for all the help. I used epoxy on the screwdriver and let in set up an pulled it right out. having trouble getting it to run now. +"Hi, I have to ask what kind of thermal protection is supplied on this motor? Owner overheated and warranty won't cover it??? Looks like an impeller meltdown, possibly weeds over intake screens. No compression in cylinder #4 and only 84 psi in cylinder #3. #'s 1 and 2 are near 190 psi. Is there an overhaul kit available for this motor? Oil is clean, no particles of any kind. Has less than 50 hours since brand new. The shop that took it apart destroyed the shaft and water pump. Do you think it is worth a repair effort? I have overhauled many outboards in the last 45 years but never a 4 stroke. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks,Tim","Well, I understand your perspective. Yet if the high temp alarm is activated, both visually and audibly, as well as rpm reduction mode, something is wrong with the engine. It doesn't take one to be an outboard expert to know shutting it down is the only option to avoid damage. And if the alarm switch on your log splitter had been disengaged, I recon it too would continue running.","Well, I understand your perspective. Yet if the high temp alarm is activated, both visually and audibly, as well as rpm reduction mode, something is wrong with the engine. It doesn't take one to be an outboard expert to know shutting it down is the only option to avoid damage. And if the alarm switch on your log splitter had been disengaged, I recon it too would continue running.","Yeah was thinking that after i pulled the head off, so just re-fit with new gasket?" +"Hi, I have to ask what kind of thermal protection is supplied on this motor? Owner overheated and warranty won't cover it??? Looks like an impeller meltdown, possibly weeds over intake screens. No compression in cylinder #4 and only 84 psi in cylinder #3. #'s 1 and 2 are near 190 psi. Is there an overhaul kit available for this motor? Oil is clean, no particles of any kind. Has less than 50 hours since brand new. The shop that took it apart destroyed the shaft and water pump. Do you think it is worth a repair effort? I have overhauled many outboards in the last 45 years but never a 4 stroke. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks,Tim","Yes I won't attempt to re-engineer this thing, but just protect my overhaul from a careless operator. If it happened once it could happen again. Thanks, Tim","Yes I won't attempt to re-engineer this thing, but just protect my overhaul from a careless operator. If it happened once it could happen again. Thanks, Tim","Brian, +Thanks for the help. I will try out the information and ideas you have given me. I know the place where you work, and have talked to someone there once before when I was having some issues so I may be in touch if I find something more out. + +Thanks again, +Doug" +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 150 TXRC outboard motor on my boat. My motor was running irregularly and sputtering while in gear so I decided to flush out my fuel lines and clean out the carbs. I noticed afterwards that the motor started quicker and idled stronger. I decided to take the boat out this morning for a victory ride and the motor not only stalled, but it also would not throttle. While this was happening, I noticed that my gauges (voltage meter, fuel, etc.) would not register. I turned the motor off and waited a minute. Feeling frustrated, I decided to try and restart the motor. The gauges worked fine and the motor ran strong and throttled normally. + +Other than contaminated fuel, what would be another reason this is happening?","So this is a 2004 carb'd 2 stroke? Whilst you appear to maybe have an electrical issue to chase down based on what you have said, a common issue on the Yamaha 2 strokes that will give some of your symptoms are bad diaphragms in the fuel pumps. You can check these by unbolting the fuel pump from the side of the engine and then squeezing the fuel primer bulb to see if any fuel leaks out the back of the pump.","So this is a 2004 carb'd 2 stroke? Whilst you appear to maybe have an electrical issue to chase down based on what you have said, a common issue on the Yamaha 2 strokes that will give some of your symptoms are bad diaphragms in the fuel pumps. You can check these by unbolting the fuel pump from the side of the engine and then squeezing the fuel primer bulb to see if any fuel leaks out the back of the pump.","Hey pulled down the bearing assembly what was left of it lol I have noticed in all the bearing replacements i've watched that all have a flat washer behind the shaft nut this one here had a cone shaped washer (I guess) behind it, is this what I need to go back on with the new stuff or, do I need the flat washer or does it matter it appears that the cone shape washer would fit inside the front bearing and that the bearing would ride on it." +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 150 TXRC outboard motor on my boat. My motor was running irregularly and sputtering while in gear so I decided to flush out my fuel lines and clean out the carbs. I noticed afterwards that the motor started quicker and idled stronger. I decided to take the boat out this morning for a victory ride and the motor not only stalled, but it also would not throttle. While this was happening, I noticed that my gauges (voltage meter, fuel, etc.) would not register. I turned the motor off and waited a minute. Feeling frustrated, I decided to try and restart the motor. The gauges worked fine and the motor ran strong and throttled normally. + +Other than contaminated fuel, what would be another reason this is happening?","Sounds like you've got 2 seperate issues, but not really. If this was related to the fuel system, after you cleaned it and the carbs all would be good, right? + +Your gauges went haywire today despite the engine performing better after fuel/carb cleaning, so I'm leaning towards the issue being solely electrical. If this issue you experienced the second time out was fuel related, your gauges would not be affected. But they were. What causes gauges to go haywire....power supply. + +And if you're wondering why the engine performed better after cleaning fuel/carbs...A good cleaning of fuel system and carbs will normally result in the manner you described, especially if its been a while since you last cleaned. + +As far as troubleshooting, since this deals with the electrical system, unless you're very comfortable with performing the voltage drop tests on multiple harness, wires, etc until the problem is found I would advise leaving it to the pros. If you are comfy with it, good place to start is the power supply and the cdi output.","Sounds like you've got 2 seperate issues, but not really. If this was related to the fuel system, after you cleaned it and the carbs all would be good, right? + +Your gauges went haywire today despite the engine performing better after fuel/carb cleaning, so I'm leaning towards the issue being solely electrical. If this issue you experienced the second time out was fuel related, your gauges would not be affected. But they were. What causes gauges to go haywire....power supply. + +And if you're wondering why the engine performed better after cleaning fuel/carbs...A good cleaning of fuel system and carbs will normally result in the manner you described, especially if its been a while since you last cleaned. + +As far as troubleshooting, since this deals with the electrical system, unless you're very comfortable with performing the voltage drop tests on multiple harness, wires, etc until the problem is found I would advise leaving it to the pros. If you are comfy with it, good place to start is the power supply and the cdi output.","Found this service manual online. Looks to be for an '88 90ETG and should be accurate for your motor. Good luck. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...shop-manuals/675-1988-yamaha-70etg-90etg/file" +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 150 TXRC outboard motor on my boat. My motor was running irregularly and sputtering while in gear so I decided to flush out my fuel lines and clean out the carbs. I noticed afterwards that the motor started quicker and idled stronger. I decided to take the boat out this morning for a victory ride and the motor not only stalled, but it also would not throttle. While this was happening, I noticed that my gauges (voltage meter, fuel, etc.) would not register. I turned the motor off and waited a minute. Feeling frustrated, I decided to try and restart the motor. The gauges worked fine and the motor ran strong and throttled normally. + +Other than contaminated fuel, what would be another reason this is happening?","I think the gauges going haywire points towards this being electrical system related. Sure, the engine idled and ran better after cleaning fuel and carbs, but this naturally would be the result. Being that the engine responded well to the cleaning, yet you're still experiencing the power issue, should eliminate fuel system as the culprit. Start troubleshooting the electrical system, using voltage drop tests. Start with engines power supply and cdi.","I think the gauges going haywire points towards this being electrical system related. Sure, the engine idled and ran better after cleaning fuel and carbs, but this naturally would be the result. Being that the engine responded well to the cleaning, yet you're still experiencing the power issue, should eliminate fuel system as the culprit. Start troubleshooting the electrical system, using voltage drop tests. Start with engines power supply and cdi.","Here's what happened...and I hope this story will help others..I sure learned alot!! Steve at the rotdoctor.com explained that they deal with this all the time. Their product CPES has been tested to bond to the bad wood, and make it able to accept epoxy resin..... with better than NEW WOOD strength. So, I cut out the bad wood...put on 3 coats of CPES on all wood....cut new wood as filler...injected their L&L epoxy and West Marine epoxy in ALL voids. Then put three layers of fiberglass cloth over everything. + +What's interesting is that when I torqued the transom plate bolts to the 57lbs...over the now epoxy-ed transom...it was ROCK hard...epoxy does not compress like wood does. + +Take a look at the pics....any thoughts? This fix was about $300 total...compared to $4000 for a new transom. + +Russ" +friend has 06 tlr60. plenty h20 out the pee hole but water never warms up. idles for about 3 minutes then alarm goes off. block plenty hot. thermostat?,"Pull stat and test in a pot of water on stove, should open at 143F, Check temp. with a infrared temp. gun on head, Try the hand on head test for 6 second count. Are you running in salt water? Water from telltale should be warm but not hot enough to burn hand","Pull stat and test in a pot of water on stove, should open at 143F, Check temp. with a infrared temp. gun on head, Try the hand on head test for 6 second count. Are you running in salt water? Water from telltale should be warm but not hot enough to burn hand","Try a flexible 1/4 drive extension, it looks like a spring,A universal socket, A wobble extension" +friend has 06 tlr60. plenty h20 out the pee hole but water never warms up. idles for about 3 minutes then alarm goes off. block plenty hot. thermostat?,"a238killfish said: + + + + friend has 06 tlr60. plenty h20 out the pee hole but water never warms up. idles for about 3 minutes then alarm goes off. block plenty hot. thermostat? + +Click to expand... + + +The good water flow from the tell tale only indicates your water pump is functioning. It's good flow does not indicate water is circulating through the cooling passages. 3min idle followed by high temp alarm is a testament to this. The stats only open when the engine warm. When the engine needs more cool water in order to maintain normal op temp, stats open at a preset temp. + +Normally it will take a idling cold engine about 10min to warm. Could be shorter or longer, depending on ambient air temp. You can pull the stats and check their function. If your engines stat housing is vertical (stats are seated up/down), remove stats and start engine while flushing on muffs. If you're still getting the high temp alarm, then the cooling passages have corroded to the point of failure. Heads need to be pulled to scrape out all the built up corrosion. + +Or you can try running Salt X through the muff flush, but this is more of a preventative maintenance so I doubt it will work.","a238killfish said: + + + + friend has 06 tlr60. plenty h20 out the pee hole but water never warms up. idles for about 3 minutes then alarm goes off. block plenty hot. thermostat? + +Click to expand... + + +The good water flow from the tell tale only indicates your water pump is functioning. It's good flow does not indicate water is circulating through the cooling passages. 3min idle followed by high temp alarm is a testament to this. The stats only open when the engine warm. When the engine needs more cool water in order to maintain normal op temp, stats open at a preset temp. + +Normally it will take a idling cold engine about 10min to warm. Could be shorter or longer, depending on ambient air temp. You can pull the stats and check their function. If your engines stat housing is vertical (stats are seated up/down), remove stats and start engine while flushing on muffs. If you're still getting the high temp alarm, then the cooling passages have corroded to the point of failure. Heads need to be pulled to scrape out all the built up corrosion. + +Or you can try running Salt X through the muff flush, but this is more of a preventative maintenance so I doubt it will work.","Many folks are going to run into "" parts not available "" with these newer outboards.---------------In my opinion it is easier to find parts for ""American built "" motors from the 60's and 70's." +friend has 06 tlr60. plenty h20 out the pee hole but water never warms up. idles for about 3 minutes then alarm goes off. block plenty hot. thermostat?,my friends motor. only 13 hours on it. previous owner in divorce never used it.it gets plenty hot on head. plenty water out telltale but water isn't even warm. boat only ran in lake for couple trip. will tell him to pull thermostat and check. thought maybe if prior owner ran it on sandbar maybe clogged as well. he should be able to tell when thermostat pulled,my friends motor. only 13 hours on it. previous owner in divorce never used it.it gets plenty hot on head. plenty water out telltale but water isn't even warm. boat only ran in lake for couple trip. will tell him to pull thermostat and check. thought maybe if prior owner ran it on sandbar maybe clogged as well. he should be able to tell when thermostat pulled,"deepsea21 said: + + + + Before you buy ANY boat you must insist on taking it for an in-water test to see for yourself if everything is workign, you're pleased with the performance and then ABSOLUTELY perform a compression check on the engine. + +In my opinion, 100 HP is not at all too small for that boat. I am running a Yamaha F115 on an 18.5' Edgewater dual console fiberglass boat. My boat weighs 1,750lbs dry without any fuel, dual batteries, water, gear etc. (54 Gal fuel tank to boot). Fully loaded with 2 people I'm probably at 2,250 lbs. It was rated for 150 HP max. I opted for 115 HP for me is PLENTY - top speed is about 38MPH at WOT and finding water than I even want to open it up to WOT is hard to find. The boat you are looking at is aluminum and weighs about 500 lbs less than mine dry! HP that you can't use anywhere other than on a glass-smooth interior lake or river is worthless in my opinion. I'd bet with 100Hp on that boat you can cruise at about 24-25 MPH turning 4200-4400 rpm. Top speed at WOT would be in the high 30's at 5800-6000. + +Click to expand... + + + +thanks for response mate, very helpful, i am intending to get a mechanic to go over the boat and motor, and then a water test. +just one point i wanted to make is that the boat in link is not aluminium, it is a fibreglass hull. +cheers" +friend has 06 tlr60. plenty h20 out the pee hole but water never warms up. idles for about 3 minutes then alarm goes off. block plenty hot. thermostat?,"This could very well be a thermoswitch issue, giving the high temp false alarm.","This could very well be a thermoswitch issue, giving the high temp false alarm.","Clogged jets will not stop it from starting. Clogged jets will usually cause a rough or no idle condition. + +Assuming your choke solenoid is working, Pull the carb cover off and try to start the engine when cold. Make sure the choke is closing all the way. The rubber gasket between the carb cover and the carb body will swell up over time and interfere with the choke butterfly not allowing it to close completely. + + +If all looks good with the choke, Do a compression test and a leak down test." +friend has 06 tlr60. plenty h20 out the pee hole but water never warms up. idles for about 3 minutes then alarm goes off. block plenty hot. thermostat?,"Sand bars usually eat up the impeller in short time and or clog housing and cooling passages. Are you running on open water?Muffs? tank? As said in above thread,pull stats.and run engine,water should flow out like a gyser if pump is intact","Sand bars usually eat up the impeller in short time and or clog housing and cooling passages. Are you running on open water?Muffs? tank? As said in above thread,pull stats.and run engine,water should flow out like a gyser if pump is intact","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + How about you condense this into the facts of what the actual problem is so someone might read it. + +Click to expand... + + +Apologies, I'm new to forum etiquette and posting format." +friend has 06 tlr60. plenty h20 out the pee hole but water never warms up. idles for about 3 minutes then alarm goes off. block plenty hot. thermostat?,"You can also test the thermoswitch's continuity. The switch is open from room temp up to around 165º, closes thereafter.","You can also test the thermoswitch's continuity. The switch is open from room temp up to around 165º, closes thereafter.","Thanks. I was going to try to do that. I appreciate you saving me the trouble. Carb kit and fuel pump should be in next week. Just got to find some shade to work in. 95 here today. + +Thanks again for all the help. I'll keep the progress posted. I've got some obligations tomorrow morning but may start pulling things apart in the afternoon. + +Alan" +"Hi, I have a 2004 70tlrd outboard with dash mounted ignition, I have to turn the key about 30 times until I hear the solenoid click before it will start but some times the gauges will not come on, is it a bad ignition or solenoid, any info is greatly appreciated.","Check battery connections for corrosion and security first, Is battery fully charged? Has it been load tested?","Check battery connections for corrosion and security first, Is battery fully charged? Has it been load tested?",Went with removing and then installing it at location. Used stainless flat and spring washer with stainless wing nuts. Only took about 5 minutes to get it up and then pull down at end of trip. Put a latex rubber glove over wiring and tucked them into recess of dome tower to protect from wind and weather during 400km trip. Anyone with same sort of concern this worked really well. Thanks for your replies +"Hi, I have a 2004 70tlrd outboard with dash mounted ignition, I have to turn the key about 30 times until I hear the solenoid click before it will start but some times the gauges will not come on, is it a bad ignition or solenoid, any info is greatly appreciated.","Connections are good, both batteries are brand new","Connections are good, both batteries are brand new","using outboards? + +minimizing the length of fuel hose used will let the fuel pump work easier.....when was the last time the fuel pumps were serviced?" +"Hi, I have a 2004 70tlrd outboard with dash mounted ignition, I have to turn the key about 30 times until I hear the solenoid click before it will start but some times the gauges will not come on, is it a bad ignition or solenoid, any info is greatly appreciated.",First guess would be a bad ignition switch.,First guess would be a bad ignition switch.,Check the power cables between the battery and engine. Especially the ends where the connector lugs are crimped on under the heat shrink. Also check your battery switch if there is one fitted. +"Hi, I have a 2004 70tlrd outboard with dash mounted ignition, I have to turn the key about 30 times until I hear the solenoid click before it will start but some times the gauges will not come on, is it a bad ignition or solenoid, any info is greatly appreciated.","Meter test the ignition switch by attaching one meter probe to hot wire, then other probe to a known ground source. Turn key to ON position. Meter should read 12+ volts. If not, disconnect main harness from ignition harness. Verify you're getting 12v from main harness. One probe to main harness red, other probe to known ground. If no 12v, main harness is bad. If you're getting 12v, reconnect main harness and disconnect ignition harness from tach harness. Turn key ON and voltage drop test. If nothing, ignition switch is bad.","Meter test the ignition switch by attaching one meter probe to hot wire, then other probe to a known ground source. Turn key to ON position. Meter should read 12+ volts. If not, disconnect main harness from ignition harness. Verify you're getting 12v from main harness. One probe to main harness red, other probe to known ground. If no 12v, main harness is bad. If you're getting 12v, reconnect main harness and disconnect ignition harness from tach harness. Turn key ON and voltage drop test. If nothing, ignition switch is bad.","If you sanded it down, you are screwed. New axle time." +"Trim Indicator problems. 2010 VF 250 Yamaha Four Stroke. Can't get my trim indicator to read right so I know when I'm coming off of my trim rods. I have adjusted the lever mounted behind steeriing cable on motor four times. It measures trim position and sends signal to my console mounted gauge but never gives me consistent readings on what position my motor is in. + +Any suggestions?","Either the sender arm is operating inconsistently, thereby correctly sending the inconsistent trim position signal, or the sender arm is operating consistently and the signal is operating inconsistently. Sounds like you've addressed the sender arm. What have you done to address the wiring communicating the signal between the trim and gauge?","Either the sender arm is operating inconsistently, thereby correctly sending the inconsistent trim position signal, or the sender arm is operating consistently and the signal is operating inconsistently. Sounds like you've addressed the sender arm. What have you done to address the wiring communicating the signal between the trim and gauge?","Did you look it up online the wiring scheme for the boat? Only ask cause it should be easier then it looks. This boat has been modified from the way it used to be wired. Only say that cause wires are +missing, broken, leading to nowhere, old wires are still sitting in the boat. Like the old trolling motor cables, the on board battery charger, the front running lights, the copper wires were completely black so they fried.." +"Trim Indicator problems. 2010 VF 250 Yamaha Four Stroke. Can't get my trim indicator to read right so I know when I'm coming off of my trim rods. I have adjusted the lever mounted behind steeriing cable on motor four times. It measures trim position and sends signal to my console mounted gauge but never gives me consistent readings on what position my motor is in. + +Any suggestions?",Nothing. I'm not sure what to do other than find where the wires connect to the control board and make sure the connections are good and the wires in good shape. Do you have a specific diagnostic routine you can recommend?,Nothing. I'm not sure what to do other than find where the wires connect to the control board and make sure the connections are good and the wires in good shape. Do you have a specific diagnostic routine you can recommend?,"I would highly recommend that you post your questions on the iBoats.com forum. It's the absolute best forum on the web for boat repair and restoration. Some of the best Professional boat people hang out on that forum and WILL be MORE than happy to provide you with all answers to your questions. Seeing your pics now, I truly believe your boat is a PRIME Candidate for a Seacast/Nidacore ""Pour In Transom"" There are multiple threads on the iBoats forum that thoroughly discuss this process with pics, videos and discussion from those that have ""Been there and done that. A bit Pricey but one that will Never have to be repeated for the life of the vessel. OH and IMHO cutting the outer skin of the transom to replace it is a Last Ditch method. Yours is NOT that case." +"Trim Indicator problems. 2010 VF 250 Yamaha Four Stroke. Can't get my trim indicator to read right so I know when I'm coming off of my trim rods. I have adjusted the lever mounted behind steeriing cable on motor four times. It measures trim position and sends signal to my console mounted gauge but never gives me consistent readings on what position my motor is in. + +Any suggestions?",Voltage drop test the trim/oil harness. If you don't have your engines service manual now is reason to get one. Wire diagrams and instructions to diagnose electrical problems are included if you're not familiar with the procedure. My bet is on a bad ground.,Voltage drop test the trim/oil harness. If you don't have your engines service manual now is reason to get one. Wire diagrams and instructions to diagnose electrical problems are included if you're not familiar with the procedure. My bet is on a bad ground.,"The color isn't important (except maybe as a sign of coverage), but no one remembers what the product was or who we got it from. Just that it was 'pink stuff' they used to coat the bed and they were pretty sure it was some kind of marine epoxy/resin/etc. We actually picked up a gallon of some clear bondo resin yesterday and are testing it out today. We cast concrete in wood forms, nothing terribly intricate, but whatever the pink stuff was held up to multiple castings (screeding off the top of the concrete which is fairly abrasive to the edges of the form) and resisted the daily moist and dry cycle of the initial wet cast and the heat (drying) of the concrete curing - at least for two-three weeks of use." +"My buddy took his boat into a shop for yearly service, Motor is an 2008 F150 4 stroke with 250 hours. After Service, the boat was launched and ran on low idle (throttle position the entire time) in water canals for about 30 minutes when it died. After checking electronics we noticed the Oil dip stick showed no oil. The oil light never came on. We added 5 quarts of oil and the dip stick looked normal, however it still would not start. + +I checked compression and each cylinder registered 30 to 34 psi. + +The boat was taken back to shop and discovered the timing belt slipped. The shop said they replaced the belt and boat started right up. They ran it and the diagnostics on it came back clean. Temperature was good, and compression was between 180 - 190 psi on all cylinders. they also pulled the filter after the run and split it open to check for metal and non was found. The Shop did not charge him for fixing this. + +My concern is that there could have been damaged caused to the CAM when motor stopped when timing slipped. + +My question, should my buddy be concerned since the shop didn't pull the CAM journals to verify if there wasn't any galling to the CAM?",Is this a free wheeling motor or not ??,Is this a free wheeling motor or not ??,Change to low pressure pumps. Buy OEM. +"My buddy took his boat into a shop for yearly service, Motor is an 2008 F150 4 stroke with 250 hours. After Service, the boat was launched and ran on low idle (throttle position the entire time) in water canals for about 30 minutes when it died. After checking electronics we noticed the Oil dip stick showed no oil. The oil light never came on. We added 5 quarts of oil and the dip stick looked normal, however it still would not start. + +I checked compression and each cylinder registered 30 to 34 psi. + +The boat was taken back to shop and discovered the timing belt slipped. The shop said they replaced the belt and boat started right up. They ran it and the diagnostics on it came back clean. Temperature was good, and compression was between 180 - 190 psi on all cylinders. they also pulled the filter after the run and split it open to check for metal and non was found. The Shop did not charge him for fixing this. + +My concern is that there could have been damaged caused to the CAM when motor stopped when timing slipped. + +My question, should my buddy be concerned since the shop didn't pull the CAM journals to verify if there wasn't any galling to the CAM?","I made a mistake on the description, it's a 2011 model and not a 2008. I reviewed he owners manual for an F150 model and could not find that it was free wheeling.","I made a mistake on the description, it's a 2011 model and not a 2008. I reviewed he owners manual for an F150 model and could not find that it was free wheeling.",Check for a bad ground somwhere/anywhere/everywhere. All connections to engine from the wiring harness. Could be a wiring harness gone bad from the ignition to the engine. +"My buddy took his boat into a shop for yearly service, Motor is an 2008 F150 4 stroke with 250 hours. After Service, the boat was launched and ran on low idle (throttle position the entire time) in water canals for about 30 minutes when it died. After checking electronics we noticed the Oil dip stick showed no oil. The oil light never came on. We added 5 quarts of oil and the dip stick looked normal, however it still would not start. + +I checked compression and each cylinder registered 30 to 34 psi. + +The boat was taken back to shop and discovered the timing belt slipped. The shop said they replaced the belt and boat started right up. They ran it and the diagnostics on it came back clean. Temperature was good, and compression was between 180 - 190 psi on all cylinders. they also pulled the filter after the run and split it open to check for metal and non was found. The Shop did not charge him for fixing this. + +My concern is that there could have been damaged caused to the CAM when motor stopped when timing slipped. + +My question, should my buddy be concerned since the shop didn't pull the CAM journals to verify if there wasn't any galling to the CAM?","The shop is possibly in heavy 'damage limitation mode'. I would recheck all the compression's myself. If you have bent a valve when the belt slipped you will probably see it in the compression readings. The lack of oil is possibly even more of a worry though. Do you believe that the shop forgot to put oil in the engine after draining it? If so, why did the oil pressure alarm not sound? Letting the shop check the filter for metal was potentially a risk as it may not be in their best interests to be absolutely truthful about any negative findings. I would put an external oil pressure gauge on the engine and check the pressure at idle on a hot engine to see if the pressure is consistent with an undamaged engine of that age and hours.","The shop is possibly in heavy 'damage limitation mode'. I would recheck all the compression's myself. If you have bent a valve when the belt slipped you will probably see it in the compression readings. The lack of oil is possibly even more of a worry though. Do you believe that the shop forgot to put oil in the engine after draining it? If so, why did the oil pressure alarm not sound? Letting the shop check the filter for metal was potentially a risk as it may not be in their best interests to be absolutely truthful about any negative findings. I would put an external oil pressure gauge on the engine and check the pressure at idle on a hot engine to see if the pressure is consistent with an undamaged engine of that age and hours.","yes it does, I believe it is either a cable or the steering mechanism. the cable moves freely , when I move the wheel I can watch the cable at the outdrive and it is more responsive than when I 'm underway. The boat is only 18', so the helm is pretty close to the engine. It is almost as if the cable was stretching, that is kind of how it feels when underway, the steering feels mushy." +"My buddy took his boat into a shop for yearly service, Motor is an 2008 F150 4 stroke with 250 hours. After Service, the boat was launched and ran on low idle (throttle position the entire time) in water canals for about 30 minutes when it died. After checking electronics we noticed the Oil dip stick showed no oil. The oil light never came on. We added 5 quarts of oil and the dip stick looked normal, however it still would not start. + +I checked compression and each cylinder registered 30 to 34 psi. + +The boat was taken back to shop and discovered the timing belt slipped. The shop said they replaced the belt and boat started right up. They ran it and the diagnostics on it came back clean. Temperature was good, and compression was between 180 - 190 psi on all cylinders. they also pulled the filter after the run and split it open to check for metal and non was found. The Shop did not charge him for fixing this. + +My concern is that there could have been damaged caused to the CAM when motor stopped when timing slipped. + +My question, should my buddy be concerned since the shop didn't pull the CAM journals to verify if there wasn't any galling to the CAM?",Good point. I'll check the compression on it myself. We still can't figure out why the alarm didn't sound. All the wiring looked intact and the fuses were good. My buddy did speak to another mechanic and he also questioned why the alarm didn't sound.,Good point. I'll check the compression on it myself. We still can't figure out why the alarm didn't sound. All the wiring looked intact and the fuses were good. My buddy did speak to another mechanic and he also questioned why the alarm didn't sound.,sounds like it could be a casting hole in carb bowl much like a freeze plug-if that's so replace it-if not post a better description & someone can probably answer your question +"I recently had a look at the starter motor as every now and again it would give issues (usually nothing that a quick tap wouldn't sort out). Having seen that one of the positive connection wires was virtually not attached, I soldered it back on, reassembled it and now the pinion gear spins clockwise and thus doesn't lift to engage the flywheel!!! Reversing the terminal connections causes it to spin counterclockwise, and thus it rises and engages. I've taken it apart about a dozen times since then but cannot find the issue? Does inverting the magnetic sleeve reverse polarity, this is about all I can come up with, but when reversed, it doesn't sit snug in the housing. Please HELP!!",The magnets line up with the armature !----Therfor the open space is at the bottom where the brushes are.----And with a digital meter it should read infinity in ohms.---That reading is from the shaft to the commutator.,The magnets line up with the armature !----Therfor the open space is at the bottom where the brushes are.----And with a digital meter it should read infinity in ohms.---That reading is from the shaft to the commutator.,"From a Mercruiser, something like a 230CI 150 HP Chevy in line." +"I recently had a look at the starter motor as every now and again it would give issues (usually nothing that a quick tap wouldn't sort out). Having seen that one of the positive connection wires was virtually not attached, I soldered it back on, reassembled it and now the pinion gear spins clockwise and thus doesn't lift to engage the flywheel!!! Reversing the terminal connections causes it to spin counterclockwise, and thus it rises and engages. I've taken it apart about a dozen times since then but cannot find the issue? Does inverting the magnetic sleeve reverse polarity, this is about all I can come up with, but when reversed, it doesn't sit snug in the housing. Please HELP!!","racerone said: + + + + The magnets line up with the armature !----Therfor the open space is at the bottom where the brushes are.----And with a digital meter it should read infinity in ohms.---That reading is from the shaft to the commutator. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks, Have reassembled it with the correct orientation, shaft still spinning clockwise!! Have checked all that, readings as you say- any ideas on what to check next? Have already insured that all the wires connecting the brushes are insulated, and that the brushes are properly connected to the commutator.","racerone said: + + + + The magnets line up with the armature !----Therfor the open space is at the bottom where the brushes are.----And with a digital meter it should read infinity in ohms.---That reading is from the shaft to the commutator. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks, Have reassembled it with the correct orientation, shaft still spinning clockwise!! Have checked all that, readings as you say- any ideas on what to check next? Have already insured that all the wires connecting the brushes are insulated, and that the brushes are properly connected to the commutator.","great user name.. correct it is on the non-skid. To add to the problem the previous owner drilled wire connectors up thru the underside of the deck with screws. Which i temporally filled with 5100. I am getting the balls up to do some light fiberglass work to fix. not sure how to repaint the deck with regard to no-skid and smooth areas. I am just starting to read up on it. + + + +I have applied cleaners, Scrubbed and last weekend i hit it with a pressure washer and a hull scrub cleaner.. nothing works." +"I recently had a look at the starter motor as every now and again it would give issues (usually nothing that a quick tap wouldn't sort out). Having seen that one of the positive connection wires was virtually not attached, I soldered it back on, reassembled it and now the pinion gear spins clockwise and thus doesn't lift to engage the flywheel!!! Reversing the terminal connections causes it to spin counterclockwise, and thus it rises and engages. I've taken it apart about a dozen times since then but cannot find the issue? Does inverting the magnetic sleeve reverse polarity, this is about all I can come up with, but when reversed, it doesn't sit snug in the housing. Please HELP!!",Post a picture of the brushes installed in the holder.,Post a picture of the brushes installed in the holder.,"rejesterd said: + + + +If the fuel pressure is 40 psi after it's been warmed up and idling, I think that's a little high. Maybe the pressure regulator is faulty, or the vacuum sense line (which connects the pressure regulator to the air intake) is disconnected. At key-on, the fuel pressure should be slightly higher than it is at idle after warmup. + +Click to expand... + +""at idle do have a code 29 intake pressure""" +"I recently had a look at the starter motor as every now and again it would give issues (usually nothing that a quick tap wouldn't sort out). Having seen that one of the positive connection wires was virtually not attached, I soldered it back on, reassembled it and now the pinion gear spins clockwise and thus doesn't lift to engage the flywheel!!! Reversing the terminal connections causes it to spin counterclockwise, and thus it rises and engages. I've taken it apart about a dozen times since then but cannot find the issue? Does inverting the magnetic sleeve reverse polarity, this is about all I can come up with, but when reversed, it doesn't sit snug in the housing. Please HELP!!",What you do is..........Get a new starter and replace yours before you do some expensive damage.,What you do is..........Get a new starter and replace yours before you do some expensive damage.,"That old 305 is a fine engine, you just need to keep it maintained. Keep the rpm's reasonable. Change the oil and filter religiously at its specified maintenance interval. Occasionally add a can or two of Sea Foam to the fuel to keep your carb clean and break up carbon that accumulates on the valves. One weakness they have is a thin oil pan, so every once in awhile, work your hand down under a cold engine and see if there is oil leaking there. If so, it is possible that the oil pan has rusted through, so the engine will need to be pulled and the oil pan replaced. If you need to replace it, find an aluminum or stainless steel replacement. Also, it probably has a canister-type fuel filter. Change that out every two oil changes, or so. If you ever need to change the canister cover itself, an old Ford canister is a perfect fit. One other thing, you should have a Recor fuel/water separator installed in the fuel line between your tank and the engine. That will keep water from getting into your carburetor and on-board fuel filter. Remember to check and empty it at every oil change." +"I recently had a look at the starter motor as every now and again it would give issues (usually nothing that a quick tap wouldn't sort out). Having seen that one of the positive connection wires was virtually not attached, I soldered it back on, reassembled it and now the pinion gear spins clockwise and thus doesn't lift to engage the flywheel!!! Reversing the terminal connections causes it to spin counterclockwise, and thus it rises and engages. I've taken it apart about a dozen times since then but cannot find the issue? Does inverting the magnetic sleeve reverse polarity, this is about all I can come up with, but when reversed, it doesn't sit snug in the housing. Please HELP!!",Is your battery in backwards or possibly charged backwards ????,Is your battery in backwards or possibly charged backwards ????,Oil pressure switch ? +"I recently had a look at the starter motor as every now and again it would give issues (usually nothing that a quick tap wouldn't sort out). Having seen that one of the positive connection wires was virtually not attached, I soldered it back on, reassembled it and now the pinion gear spins clockwise and thus doesn't lift to engage the flywheel!!! Reversing the terminal connections causes it to spin counterclockwise, and thus it rises and engages. I've taken it apart about a dozen times since then but cannot find the issue? Does inverting the magnetic sleeve reverse polarity, this is about all I can come up with, but when reversed, it doesn't sit snug in the housing. Please HELP!!",Use a voltmeter to check that you are getting the correct polarity at the starter motor terminals. I have never heard of one running backwards and I have stripped and serviced dozens of dc motors of that type. If it was possible to do with an assembly problem I probably would have found out by now ;-),Use a voltmeter to check that you are getting the correct polarity at the starter motor terminals. I have never heard of one running backwards and I have stripped and serviced dozens of dc motors of that type. If it was possible to do with an assembly problem I probably would have found out by now ;-),Just turning the key and letting go... it will crank every time just only runs 14 seconds and shuts off +"I recently had a look at the starter motor as every now and again it would give issues (usually nothing that a quick tap wouldn't sort out). Having seen that one of the positive connection wires was virtually not attached, I soldered it back on, reassembled it and now the pinion gear spins clockwise and thus doesn't lift to engage the flywheel!!! Reversing the terminal connections causes it to spin counterclockwise, and thus it rises and engages. I've taken it apart about a dozen times since then but cannot find the issue? Does inverting the magnetic sleeve reverse polarity, this is about all I can come up with, but when reversed, it doesn't sit snug in the housing. Please HELP!!","If you reverse the polarity going to that starter mtr on CERTAIN outboards, it will run backwards. Had it happen to me.","If you reverse the polarity going to that starter mtr on CERTAIN outboards, it will run backwards. Had it happen to me.",Update. I was about to pull the carburetors today and decided to see where the fuel was coming from because of the location not all of it came from the overflow. I thought the screws were loose or the gasket was leaking. I cleaned the outside of the carburetors good even used a q tip. Removed the silencer and there I could see it was coming from the throat and running down. Made perfect since. After cleaning that up I hooked the tank up and it primed right up. After an hour I looked and no fuel leak any where not even the overflow. Primer was still tight so I put some pressure on it this time and waited another hour. No leak anywhere. The throat had some fuel in it but not much. Then I decided to run it and it ran perfect but I couldn’t make any fuel leak out. All clean still. I’m waiting to see what tomorrow brings. I don’t believe in a cure in a scan but Seafoam has helped the heck out of it. If no leaks it’s going for a lake test. +I have a 2002 50tlra. It starts and runs great. After about 20 minutes of running it starts to run miss when staying it and running. Finally it will not start at all. Let it cool down completely and out runs fine.,Check to see if you have spark on a tester when it quits.,Check to see if you have spark on a tester when it quits.,i do have a picture of the damage +I have a 2002 50tlra. It starts and runs great. After about 20 minutes of running it starts to run miss when staying it and running. Finally it will not start at all. Let it cool down completely and out runs fine.,"Well, what happened ??","Well, what happened ??","I think the motor is newer it's the camo version, I will look for a model number I will check all lines and filter and pump. BUT what is sync the carb to ign. I have a service manual and read it thru and can't find that info." +I have a 2002 50tlra. It starts and runs great. After about 20 minutes of running it starts to run miss when staying it and running. Finally it will not start at all. Let it cool down completely and out runs fine.,I have been out of town almost constantly. I was able to put a meter on my could though and check resistance. One was below specs and the other two are at the bottom of the tolerance. I am ordering one to check it with my meter and compare to the other two.,I have been out of town almost constantly. I was able to put a meter on my could though and check resistance. One was below specs and the other two are at the bottom of the tolerance. I am ordering one to check it with my meter and compare to the other two.,"I've used KiwiGrip, and it is a decent deck surface, and relatively easy to apply if you follow the instructions closely. It's not easy on bare feet because of it's rather aggressive ""knobs"". But you can thin it out if you need to. It goes on like a thick yogurt, and you use a special ""comb"" to spread it out. I put it on over painted fiberglass that had been sanded down. However, I'm not sure how it would do on wood. On the Internet, you can find several videos on application. Jamestown Distributors sells it, and there are a lot of FAQ's and Q&A's about it on their sight. + +On of the really nice things about KiwiGrip is that if it gets damaged, you can paint over the damage and it blends right in with the original coat." +I have a 2002 50tlra. It starts and runs great. After about 20 minutes of running it starts to run miss when staying it and running. Finally it will not start at all. Let it cool down completely and out runs fine.,"What are you ordering, your post is very vague and what are you testing with ohm meter,coils?? Something electronic is breaking down from heat in your ignition system!","What are you ordering, your post is very vague and what are you testing with ohm meter,coils?? Something electronic is breaking down from heat in your ignition system!","What kind of access do you have underneath? And how sound is the decking? Wood screws (Stainless) would do the trick but you can drill through and bolt it down, if you have access underneath." +I have a 2002 50tlra. It starts and runs great. After about 20 minutes of running it starts to run miss when staying it and running. Finally it will not start at all. Let it cool down completely and out runs fine.,Did you ever check your spark on a tester ??,Did you ever check your spark on a tester ??,That is hard to swallow. +Any recommendations for a particular kit? Are there any I should avoid?,"always......go with a oem kit. they are a little pricer, and you are getting parts that are made to oem specs.","always......go with a oem kit. they are a little pricer, and you are getting parts that are made to oem specs.",if I understand they are looking for a fuel tank for a 1989 4hp Johnson? +Any recommendations for a particular kit? Are there any I should avoid?,"Chuck1234 said: + + + + Any recommendations for a particular kit? Are there any I should avoid? + +Click to expand... + + +Do you mean is there a particular brand of kit? i.e. yamaha, sierra","Chuck1234 said: + + + + Any recommendations for a particular kit? Are there any I should avoid? + +Click to expand... + + +Do you mean is there a particular brand of kit? i.e. yamaha, sierra","Have you checked the fluid level in the trim system? Sounds like it's very low on fluid as it pumps so much and stops while the motor keeps running as it can't build more pressure. Check to see that it is fully filled. If not, fill it and cycle up and down while checking for any leaks throughout the hydraulic lines as it must have leaked somewhere. The hydraulic fluid doesn't vanish or burn away so I'd say there is a leak in the system somewhere if it is low. Unless you find the leak, it will work for a while and then you'll run into the same thing as the level gradually drops and you'll find when trying to trim up it will stop at lower and lower angles of trim.Google ""changing fluid on yamaha outboard power trim"" and you'll find lots of info and videos how to check and do it." +Any recommendations for a particular kit? Are there any I should avoid?,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + Do you mean is there a particular brand of kit? i.e. yamaha, sierra + +Click to expand... + +Yes. As in no made in the people's republic junk.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Do you mean is there a particular brand of kit? i.e. yamaha, sierra + +Click to expand... + +Yes. As in no made in the people's republic junk.","Ground comes from motor to control box via the 7/10 pin harness. Ground is applied to the white wire via either the kill switch or the key switch. Ground runs through the white wire back to the CDI on the motor. + +A fault anywhere along the way will cause a problem. Maybe these diagrams will help." +Any recommendations for a particular kit? Are there any I should avoid?,"Personally, when it comes to hardware and other engine essentials I only buy yamaha oem. In this case, a carb kit, you'll find a cheaper aftermarket kit like sierra. But it becomes a major headache and labor time wasted when the engine isn't performing as it should bc you used an aftermarket product. Just my take. I'll use aftermarket fuel/water separator, or even a fuel filter, but only yam oem parts installed on or in the motor.","Personally, when it comes to hardware and other engine essentials I only buy yamaha oem. In this case, a carb kit, you'll find a cheaper aftermarket kit like sierra. But it becomes a major headache and labor time wasted when the engine isn't performing as it should bc you used an aftermarket product. Just my take. I'll use aftermarket fuel/water separator, or even a fuel filter, but only yam oem parts installed on or in the motor.",main harness connection looks very good .. +Any recommendations for a particular kit? Are there any I should avoid?,OEM all the way on engine parts if possible,OEM all the way on engine parts if possible,"deepsea21 said: + + + + Flywatt... Another thing that can be problematic with the F115 (learned this the hard way as well like everything) is the location of the VST tank is deep in the engine. I'm not saying this caused your problem based on what you described but it somethin to keep in mind when running it in the future... Running long or running fast generates ALOT of heat in the engine under the cowling. If you come to a stop and then shut it down they can be very tough to start again (especially if you are runnign ethanol-blended fuel with ethanol having a lower vapor point than gasoline. You can get a vapor lock with fuel/ethanol vapors in the VST tank filling the intake and creating a super-rich vapor situation that makes the engine almost impossible to re-start normally. If this happens you can advance the throttle (not in gear) to 1/2 -3/4 open and try starting... that will usually work and clear the vapor lock but be ready to yank back on the throttle to idle as soon as it fires. To avoid the problem altogether, always allow the engine to idle for 4-5 minutes and cool down after an extended or high speed run before shutting it off. If you don't, as soon as you shut it off hot the water drains from the block and the wter that was absorbing the heat is gone and it really starts to build heat under the cowling vaporizing fuel in the VST tank. Don't learn the hard way... The Yamaha manual says to allow it to idle and cool down for several minutes before shutting off. I didn't pay any attention to those instructions until I learned the hard way. + +Click to expand... + + +I really appreciate the advice. I will make sure she idles from now on. Just bought the boat a few weeks ago. This is my first four stroke. I'm learning a lot!" +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","Pull the plugs, check their condition and verify spark. Unless the plugs are new, replace. They are an inexpensive solution if spark is the problem.","Pull the plugs, check their condition and verify spark. Unless the plugs are new, replace. They are an inexpensive solution if spark is the problem.",Plug wires are tough but they can fail can you borrow a wire from another cylinder for a test? It doesn't have to fit properly just let the spark jump to the block. +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","What is your starting procedure? Are you priming with the bulb till firm? How are you using the choke function,throttle advance? Has a compression test been run on her lately? Has an open air gap spark test been completed, After running these two tests fuel diagnosis is third","What is your starting procedure? Are you priming with the bulb till firm? How are you using the choke function,throttle advance? Has a compression test been run on her lately? Has an open air gap spark test been completed, After running these two tests fuel diagnosis is third","wow no response/help? my specific question pertains to the difference between rigging( factory wiring) the 2014 in place of the 2004 F 150. +thanks" +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","johnnygjr said: + + + + What is your starting procedure? Are you priming with the bulb till firm? How are you using the choke function,throttle advance? Has a compression test been run on her lately? Has an open air gap spark test been completed, After running these two tests fuel diagnosis is third + +Click to expand... + +Everything you mention is good. Problem is something else. Carb is not picking the gas up for some reason.","johnnygjr said: + + + + What is your starting procedure? Are you priming with the bulb till firm? How are you using the choke function,throttle advance? Has a compression test been run on her lately? Has an open air gap spark test been completed, After running these two tests fuel diagnosis is third + +Click to expand... + +Everything you mention is good. Problem is something else. Carb is not picking the gas up for some reason.",I have a '75 Dilley. I replace an axle from Sturdy Built in Fl. Might Google them and call. +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","You mentioned in your initial post the choke functions fully. There is a very small o-ring that secures the choke solenoid's arm to the the carb choke lever. If this o-ring has come off and you engage the ignition key choke function, you will still hear and see the solenoid's arm move. But it won't be moving the carb choke lever. + +Have you verified the carb choke lever is indeed being engaged, thus closing the valves?","You mentioned in your initial post the choke functions fully. There is a very small o-ring that secures the choke solenoid's arm to the the carb choke lever. If this o-ring has come off and you engage the ignition key choke function, you will still hear and see the solenoid's arm move. But it won't be moving the carb choke lever. + +Have you verified the carb choke lever is indeed being engaged, thus closing the valves?","Is this a new issue? The gear grind is one thing, the acceleration when in reverse gear is another. Check gear oil since having this issue?" +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?",Pull air silencer off of carbs and verify function of choke visually,Pull air silencer off of carbs and verify function of choke visually,Thanks ! +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","johnnygjr said: + + + + Pull air silencer off of carbs and verify function of choke visually + +Click to expand... + + +Second that. + +There is a rubber seal for both carbs to the silencer assembly, these seals swell over time and keep the choke from closing completely. You can remove them for testing, if this is your problem order news ones and replace them. + +P/N +[h=1]6K7-14483-00-00[/h]","johnnygjr said: + + + + Pull air silencer off of carbs and verify function of choke visually + +Click to expand... + + +Second that. + +There is a rubber seal for both carbs to the silencer assembly, these seals swell over time and keep the choke from closing completely. You can remove them for testing, if this is your problem order news ones and replace them. + +P/N +[h=1]6K7-14483-00-00[/h]","makomark said: + + + + based on your 'readings' sounds like there's a huge voltage drop thru the solenoid.....if the connections and wires leading to it are ok, probably time for a new solenoid..... + +Click to expand... + +Thanks mako, I ran all new wires from battery to motor. Voltage went up but still not firing. I just don't have the equipment to troubleshoot motor so hauled it to macanic. Thanks for the input" +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","Tried to upload pic to no avail. Silencer is off, choke works. Fuel good. Fuel lines good. Runs great after starting the first time. Carb is not picking up gas for some reason. My next step is to unhook fuel line from carb and start working back towards tank to verify gas is getting to carb. Guy I bought motor from had replaced fuel pump simply because he had tried everything else he could think of. So I don't really think pump is faulty, but I am going to verify that. I don't buy into needing to stand on one foot , howling at the moon to get a motor to start. You supply gas and spark in the right amounts at the right time and engines start.","Tried to upload pic to no avail. Silencer is off, choke works. Fuel good. Fuel lines good. Runs great after starting the first time. Carb is not picking up gas for some reason. My next step is to unhook fuel line from carb and start working back towards tank to verify gas is getting to carb. Guy I bought motor from had replaced fuel pump simply because he had tried everything else he could think of. So I don't really think pump is faulty, but I am going to verify that. I don't buy into needing to stand on one foot , howling at the moon to get a motor to start. You supply gas and spark in the right amounts at the right time and engines start.","Stuart S said: + + + + I was thinking I might do that. I'll just shrinkwrap it or extend the tarp around it. + +Thanks! + +Click to expand... + +It is then closed up. As if the cowling was on it." +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","Pull supply line off of carb,crank engine,if fuel is pulsing out nicely check float,needle and seat in carb. have carbs. ever been removed and thoroughly soaked,cleaned and rebuilt since new?","Pull supply line off of carb,crank engine,if fuel is pulsing out nicely check float,needle and seat in carb. have carbs. ever been removed and thoroughly soaked,cleaned and rebuilt since new?","Here is the link to a pdf of your engines service manual, if you don't have one. The electronic section will have details on how to test all of the electrical components associated with spark. Including the cdi, which is where the problem might be. You'll need a multimeter. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...993-yamaha-115r-130r-150r-175r-200r-225r/file" +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","johnnygjr said: + + + + Pull supply line off of carb,crank engine,if fuel is pulsing out nicely check float,needle and seat in carb. have carbs. ever been removed and thoroughly soaked,cleaned and rebuilt since new? + +Click to expand... + +Just pulled the fuel line-cranked motor-fuel pump working good. Pulled drain plug on both carbs-gas in both, looked like plenty. Put plugs back in, reprimed . Tried cranking with motor leveled and tilted, tried choked and not choked, tried with out idle advance lever pushed forward and tried with pushed forward. All to no avail. Useing wd 40 as starting fluid in both carbs, choked with advance forward, turned motor over a few times and it fired right up. Now motor may have been right at the point it was fixing to start anyway. Have no way of knowing. Do not know how long it has been since carbs were disassembled and cleaned. Probably what needs to happen. Just want to eliminate everything else before I do. Have Yamaha repair manual. Does not appear to have a ""starter"" jet. Any pointers before I tackle carb rebuild would be appreciated.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Pull supply line off of carb,crank engine,if fuel is pulsing out nicely check float,needle and seat in carb. have carbs. ever been removed and thoroughly soaked,cleaned and rebuilt since new? + +Click to expand... + +Just pulled the fuel line-cranked motor-fuel pump working good. Pulled drain plug on both carbs-gas in both, looked like plenty. Put plugs back in, reprimed . Tried cranking with motor leveled and tilted, tried choked and not choked, tried with out idle advance lever pushed forward and tried with pushed forward. All to no avail. Useing wd 40 as starting fluid in both carbs, choked with advance forward, turned motor over a few times and it fired right up. Now motor may have been right at the point it was fixing to start anyway. Have no way of knowing. Do not know how long it has been since carbs were disassembled and cleaned. Probably what needs to happen. Just want to eliminate everything else before I do. Have Yamaha repair manual. Does not appear to have a ""starter"" jet. Any pointers before I tackle carb rebuild would be appreciated.","Are you saying the starter motor is struggling or the engine itself? + +check all connections between battery and starter. This includes the battery switch, if you have one. Check for good spark on all plugs. Meter test for a drop in voltz." +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","Johnny, I posted lengthy reply yesterday. Came up "" mods have to approve"" or some such nonsense. Maybe the overlords will approve. Slow typer. Not going to type all that again. Thanks for your input.","Johnny, I posted lengthy reply yesterday. Came up "" mods have to approve"" or some such nonsense. Maybe the overlords will approve. Slow typer. Not going to type all that again. Thanks for your input.","found out the problem was not enough voltage. +Pump is a 36 volt pump and I have a 12 volt system. +So the person who sold it to me as a 12 volt pump is getting it back. +And I will buy a genuine 12 volt pump." +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","Update again. With motor cold, sprayed some gas oil mixture into both carbs, choked, hit starter, fired right up.","Update again. With motor cold, sprayed some gas oil mixture into both carbs, choked, hit starter, fired right up.",First guess would be a bad ignition switch. +"Have a new to me 1998 Yamaha 130. Before I start let me say I looked up all the old threads and checked everything I found in the forum. Nothing helped. + Motor is hard to start the first time. After cranking first time you can't get off the starter fast enough. One lick and it is running. Here is what I have checked; fuel- good. Fuel lines-good. Primer bulb- good. Filter- good. Choke- functions fully . Advance- good. Compression is less than 5 lbs difference in all 4 jugs. + Any ideas?","So we have spark,but still have a fuel restriction issue, but engine has run, How long has it stayed running? Thread#1 +3 says she runs after initial startup,for how long? Check to see if you have fuel from tank to primer bulb, bulb to pump, pump to carbs pulling fuel lines off and on as you go. Is fuel system vented properly? Any lines collapsing? Kinked? water/fuel separator clogged,leaking air anywhere in system? If you have fuel to carbs. read post#9. A little more history please,Engine is new to you correct? How long was she stored? Old fuel in tank from previous owner? Is battery fully charged and turning over a least 200-300 rpm?","So we have spark,but still have a fuel restriction issue, but engine has run, How long has it stayed running? Thread#1 +3 says she runs after initial startup,for how long? Check to see if you have fuel from tank to primer bulb, bulb to pump, pump to carbs pulling fuel lines off and on as you go. Is fuel system vented properly? Any lines collapsing? Kinked? water/fuel separator clogged,leaking air anywhere in system? If you have fuel to carbs. read post#9. A little more history please,Engine is new to you correct? How long was she stored? Old fuel in tank from previous owner? Is battery fully charged and turning over a least 200-300 rpm?",Does anyone know what the problem may be then? It has no sign of leaks and the fluid was full when I checked it. +"Have the Yamaha service manual for my S130 TLRV. However, it is lacking in the carb rebuild section. Anyone know of a detailed manual for rebuilding 2 stroke V4 Yamaha carbs?",Does the Seloc book sold by this website go into detail on carburetor rebuild?,Does the Seloc book sold by this website go into detail on carburetor rebuild?,"IT sure would be prudent, especially given the use of an AC powered pump......I'd be inclined to use a similar setup to what an aviation fuel truck uses...." +"Have the Yamaha service manual for my S130 TLRV. However, it is lacking in the carb rebuild section. Anyone know of a detailed manual for rebuilding 2 stroke V4 Yamaha carbs?","Chuck1234 said: + + + + Have the Yamaha service manual for my S130 TLRV. However, it is lacking in the carb rebuild section. Anyone know of a detailed manual for rebuilding 2 stroke V4 Yamaha carbs? + +Click to expand... + + + +All you'll need is the carb parts blow out diagram. This should be in your manual. You'll want to order a standard carb kit for your engines year/model, one kit for each carb. Unless the carb floats are damaged you won't need to replace (to test floats, submerge them in a cup of water..check for air leaks). + +Careful not to strip the head screws. Each screw has a specific driver intended to be used to loosen. The parts blow out points you to where all the jets are located. Each jet needs to be removed, soaked, then cleared of debris. You want to be able to see right through the orifice. Install new gaskets, screws, needle valves, etc. That's it.","Chuck1234 said: + + + + Have the Yamaha service manual for my S130 TLRV. However, it is lacking in the carb rebuild section. Anyone know of a detailed manual for rebuilding 2 stroke V4 Yamaha carbs? + +Click to expand... + + + +All you'll need is the carb parts blow out diagram. This should be in your manual. You'll want to order a standard carb kit for your engines year/model, one kit for each carb. Unless the carb floats are damaged you won't need to replace (to test floats, submerge them in a cup of water..check for air leaks). + +Careful not to strip the head screws. Each screw has a specific driver intended to be used to loosen. The parts blow out points you to where all the jets are located. Each jet needs to be removed, soaked, then cleared of debris. You want to be able to see right through the orifice. Install new gaskets, screws, needle valves, etc. That's it.",Could the rectifier be bad? +"Purchased a used boat today with a 40 Hp Yamaha - 40TLR + +Not sure the impeller has been changed since new which has me worried, I am sure this has been asked but how hard is it to change impeller on this model. Should I purchase service manual or are there downloads. + +thanks for any info","Simple Job. Get a complete pump kit w/housing. + +It never hurts to own a service manual.","Simple Job. Get a complete pump kit w/housing. + +It never hurts to own a service manual.","Sorry, the engine is a 200 hp. This is a pic of the ID plate but it does not say much. That ID plate might not belong to this engine." +"Purchased a used boat today with a 40 Hp Yamaha - 40TLR + +Not sure the impeller has been changed since new which has me worried, I am sure this has been asked but how hard is it to change impeller on this model. Should I purchase service manual or are there downloads. + +thanks for any info",Get a service manual. You won't regret it !!,Get a service manual. You won't regret it !!,The way this boat was built actually makes it fairly easy to replace the junk they put in.-------Every boat is different in the way you might approach the job.----I am doing this by myself / for myself / for the grandkids.-----Not keeping track of the time or the $ spent.----Look for ------Action Marine 17 ----on google and youtube to maybe see why. +"Purchased a used boat today with a 40 Hp Yamaha - 40TLR + +Not sure the impeller has been changed since new which has me worried, I am sure this has been asked but how hard is it to change impeller on this model. Should I purchase service manual or are there downloads. + +thanks for any info",You should absolutely have a service manual. Water pump removal/installation is fairly simple. Removal of the woodruff key can be a nuisance if it's siezed.,You should absolutely have a service manual. Water pump removal/installation is fairly simple. Removal of the woodruff key can be a nuisance if it's siezed.,"If the steering box is mounted correctly, I'd suspect one of two things occurred: 1) the steering wheel was not oriented correctly when the cable was installed or 2) the ""link"" at the outdrive wasn't adjusted to ""align"" the system when going straight. + +If the link you have is fixed, I'd re-install the steering cable per the teleflex directions (most are on the web if you search some)." +"Purchased a used boat today with a 40 Hp Yamaha - 40TLR + +Not sure the impeller has been changed since new which has me worried, I am sure this has been asked but how hard is it to change impeller on this model. Should I purchase service manual or are there downloads. + +thanks for any info",There is an echo in here.......,There is an echo in here.......,"Check Engine Light +Diagnostic Trouble Codes +Remote Control + +I would check all battery connections including the battery switches.... And the Hub Power connection." +"Purchased a used boat today with a 40 Hp Yamaha - 40TLR + +Not sure the impeller has been changed since new which has me worried, I am sure this has been asked but how hard is it to change impeller on this model. Should I purchase service manual or are there downloads. + +thanks for any info",Ditto,Ditto,Thank you for taking the time to reply. +"Purchased a used boat today with a 40 Hp Yamaha - 40TLR + +Not sure the impeller has been changed since new which has me worried, I am sure this has been asked but how hard is it to change impeller on this model. Should I purchase service manual or are there downloads. + +thanks for any info","johnnygjr said: + + + + Ditto + +Click to expand... + + +Only us old guys, know what a ditto is.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Ditto + +Click to expand... + + +Only us old guys, know what a ditto is.","docksidemarineservices said: + + + + year and model number? + +Click to expand... + + + +1992 p150tlrq" +"Purchased a used boat today with a 40 Hp Yamaha - 40TLR + +Not sure the impeller has been changed since new which has me worried, I am sure this has been asked but how hard is it to change impeller on this model. Should I purchase service manual or are there downloads. + +thanks for any info",Age is only a number,Age is only a number,"Derick2986 said: + + + + I have a 2000 19 foot sea era center console + +Click to expand... + + +125 mercury outboard" +"Purchased a used boat today with a 40 Hp Yamaha - 40TLR + +Not sure the impeller has been changed since new which has me worried, I am sure this has been asked but how hard is it to change impeller on this model. Should I purchase service manual or are there downloads. + +thanks for any info",Ditto,Ditto,"There are no access holes to remove and no drain into the bilge from the under-hull. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.. Drill some holes from the bilge pump pocket, into the bilge under the deck to allow Drainage..." +"Engine wont rev past 2000/3000 rpm , it just dies. +Have opened the fuel membrane pump , it looks ok but im unsure how to test it properly since it comes off in 3 parts.. +Squeezing the bulb during running changes nothing, vsf is clean and never had water in it. No other filter. Fresh fuel in system/tank. Running good at idle, all sparkplugs looks ok. +Need help asap ! In daily use..","Just changed primer bulb, and 5000 rpm at once. Seems that it's fixed i hope","Just changed primer bulb, and 5000 rpm at once. Seems that it's fixed i hope","I think it is a fuel flow issue to the cylinders. Whatever you do, don't push it. STOP NOW! You'll fry cylinders at high RPM as I learned the hard way about partiallly clogged fuel jets. Pull those brass fuel jets from every carb and make sure they are perfectly clean and clear. Blow carb cleaner through them. If I were to guess, you have partially clogged fuel jets gummed up with this ethanol fuel we have been subjected to. The problem doesn't show up until you are trying to feed serious fuel at higher RPM's. Clean those jets and see if the problem goes away. Even if the problem goes away, pull all the carbs and clean them all thoroughly with carb cleaner. Restricted fuel to any cylinder in a 2-stroke is the kiss of death. Low fuel at high RPM = Low lubrication provided by the oil in the fuel to that cylinder." +"Engine wont rev past 2000/3000 rpm , it just dies. +Have opened the fuel membrane pump , it looks ok but im unsure how to test it properly since it comes off in 3 parts.. +Squeezing the bulb during running changes nothing, vsf is clean and never had water in it. No other filter. Fresh fuel in system/tank. Running good at idle, all sparkplugs looks ok. +Need help asap ! In daily use..","Fuel lines are 15 years old also,inspect and or replace them","Fuel lines are 15 years old also,inspect and or replace them",How old are the fuel lines? You maybe getting air in the system somewhere. Or fuel tank not venting enough. Just a couple of thoughts. I’m no technician but there are some good ones on here. +friend has a 2006 60 hp Yamaha. he tried turning it over and it worked for half dozen times then stopped altogether. also tilt trim stopped working. looks like all fuses are good. any ideas. in manual shows what appears to be an inline fuse. not exactly what we see. ther is a blade use and spare in holder on relay.,"Is battery fully charged, Has it been load tested?","Is battery fully charged, Has it been load tested?",Open up the cover on the water heater and inspect the wiring connections. Of course you should have the power off. +friend has a 2006 60 hp Yamaha. he tried turning it over and it worked for half dozen times then stopped altogether. also tilt trim stopped working. looks like all fuses are good. any ideas. in manual shows what appears to be an inline fuse. not exactly what we see. ther is a blade use and spare in holder on relay.,"Are all your battery cable connections good , clean and tight from the battery to the motor ????","Are all your battery cable connections good , clean and tight from the battery to the motor ????","bill_w said: + + + + Ok, it looks like the pressure treated gets the nod. Thanks. + +Bill + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... I wouldn't do that,.... +The chemicals used in the current P/T wood will attack, 'n corrode holes in yer aluminum boat.... + +Lotsa conversations 'bout this at the drydock over at iboats..." +friend has a 2006 60 hp Yamaha. he tried turning it over and it worked for half dozen times then stopped altogether. also tilt trim stopped working. looks like all fuses are good. any ideas. in manual shows what appears to be an inline fuse. not exactly what we see. ther is a blade use and spare in holder on relay.,my friend said batt is good. they said they heard a pop. I would guess like a short.do not hear the trim relay clicking either.will have him check tightness tomorrow. will be out there tomorrow to look at it.,my friend said batt is good. they said they heard a pop. I would guess like a short.do not hear the trim relay clicking either.will have him check tightness tomorrow. will be out there tomorrow to look at it.,"bama said: + + + + I took it out today and it went over 17 at WOT. I will check my Helix 7 voltage range. I don't mind putting in a regulator, but mine has a lot more wires than the links posted by boscoe. I am mostly worried about messing up and breaking something else. I never worried before I installed a voltmeter in the dash on this boat and I think it was possible that my last motor was putting out a lot of volts. Sometimes, knowing about something makes it more likely to break. + +Click to expand... + +Your lighting coil has but two wires. Both green. Two wires into the rectifier/regulator and two wires (one black, one red) out." +"Hi everyone! I know this is probably a long shot! But i hope anyone can help me! +I little while back i got this Yamaha 8 hp 2 stroke engine from early 2000, I believe it to be between 2000 and 2005 model, which was completely dismounted. So I am now assembling it again! But there is 3 parts I cant figure out where they originated! So if you recognize any of these and can give me a hint to where its placed please let me know! +In advance thank you and I am very grateful for any help I can get! +https://ibb.co/bwfVmFhttps://ibb.co/cgCzfa +https://ibb.co/dsBEDv",Get yourself a detailed shop manual,Get yourself a detailed shop manual,"Yes, drain the oil first and also drain the carb of gas. I have had similar problems with small HP outboards. Turning them upside down makes it much easier. First take a flashlight to see exactly how the driveshaft fits in. The shift rod linkage is also a pain on those motors." +Help appreciated. Last March North Louisiana experienced a historic flood. With all the other things I was trying to save I forgot my battery charger was connected to the cranking battery on my Yamaha 50hp. I flipped the light switch at my shop that turned the lights and also the charger. The chrger was in the hull and was completely flooded. When I finally realized what had happened the battery had melted the plastic container. The boat motor did run for a short period although roughly. Now the best I can get is a short weak turn over. Did the charger fry the power pack or is it worse than that? Thanks again,"If I read this right, start out with a new battery.","If I read this right, start out with a new battery.",Thanks for reply. Yes i checkd for big spark. I think we hav figured it out. The plastic pick up tube in tank had a crack in it up near the top. Its running a whole lot better but it still not exactly right. It wants to bog a couple times when giving WOT. It will finally take off after few times of working lever back an forth. When loading on trlr i could not get it to open up enough to load it. So we took it home and my buddy went thru all carbs an said they lookd like they were new. We checkd timing idling on muffs and WOT out on lake and timing is good. He did find it has bad rectifier. Could this make motor run bad? Thanks again +Help appreciated. Last March North Louisiana experienced a historic flood. With all the other things I was trying to save I forgot my battery charger was connected to the cranking battery on my Yamaha 50hp. I flipped the light switch at my shop that turned the lights and also the charger. The chrger was in the hull and was completely flooded. When I finally realized what had happened the battery had melted the plastic container. The boat motor did run for a short period although roughly. Now the best I can get is a short weak turn over. Did the charger fry the power pack or is it worse than that? Thanks again,"Charge battery and then have it load tested, You said battery case was melted, Does it still hold water""electrolyte""","Charge battery and then have it load tested, You said battery case was melted, Does it still hold water""electrolyte""","ok...sounds like there is a short between the battery's positive loop and the ignition circuit... + +I would start by separating the large connector in the main engine wiring harness (connecting the engine to the dash)...that will give you some indication on which 'side' the issue is.." +"My motor will only run on the center position of emergency fuel enrichment lever, can anyone help me with this? It is a 50 HP TLRD 2005 year",Time to clean the carbs,Time to clean the carbs,"Some compressed air is a good idea, if you can blow the system backwards as you don't want to lodge any rubber further in. The parts breakdown for your motor will show you if there is a seal of any description required, but to be honest, if it is sliding in cleanly, most the of the water is still going to enter the cooling system if it isn't blocked. Can you see whether it is mating correctly as you put the leg back on or does it disappear out of sight before they connect? + +Stuart" +"My motor will only run on the center position of emergency fuel enrichment lever, can anyone help me with this? It is a 50 HP TLRD 2005 year",Did cleaning carbs resolve your issue?,Did cleaning carbs resolve your issue?,I have been out of town almost constantly. I was able to put a meter on my could though and check resistance. One was below specs and the other two are at the bottom of the tolerance. I am ordering one to check it with my meter and compare to the other two. +"My motor will only run on the center position of emergency fuel enrichment lever, can anyone help me with this? It is a 50 HP TLRD 2005 year","Check fuel pressure, Try squeezing primer bulb while engine is running,does the rpm increase","Check fuel pressure, Try squeezing primer bulb while engine is running,does the rpm increase","Click on ""Forum Home"" at the top left of this page, scroll down the Mercury Outboards, and post your question there." +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.","Have you tried squeezing primer bulb before restarting after a normal shutdown? Sounds like a possible air leak in fuel system, Recheck all fuel line connections from tank to engine","Have you tried squeezing primer bulb before restarting after a normal shutdown? Sounds like a possible air leak in fuel system, Recheck all fuel line connections from tank to engine",the wire going to the sender could be grounded...i would put a meter on it and if it reads ground i would cut it a couple inches from where it goes into the compartment with the tank...i would want to eliminate the fact that the problem may is under the dash or etc...you can always re solder the wire.... +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Have you tried squeezing primer bulb before restarting after a normal shutdown? Sounds like a possible air leak in fuel system, Recheck all fuel line connections from tank to engine + +Click to expand... + + +YES I squeezed primer bulb before restarting. Should primer bulb stay hard after priming initially?","johnnygjr said: + + + + Have you tried squeezing primer bulb before restarting after a normal shutdown? Sounds like a possible air leak in fuel system, Recheck all fuel line connections from tank to engine + +Click to expand... + + +YES I squeezed primer bulb before restarting. Should primer bulb stay hard after priming initially?","I would hook a fuel pressure gauge up first. Get the engine hot, create the no start condition and check the fuel pressure." +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.",What's the easiest way to check for a fuel leak in hoses?,What's the easiest way to check for a fuel leak in hoses?,"On the Canadian Yamaha Parts Catalogue (similar to the US Version), there is no entry for this engine if searched by Model Name (75TLRZ). However, if searched by Engine Serial Number (Model Code = 692, SN = 952519), this goes to two product codes (030 and 040) for the 80A series. + +https://www.yamaha-motor.ca/en/part...MI-ezSyd-j-QIVQBmtBh258g74EAAYASAAEgI5MfD_BwE + +Following each link to the lower unit schematics, there are two different Part Nos. for Lower Units: + +6H1-45300-15-4D (Product Code 030, Remark = LL), and +6H1-45300-A3-4D (Produce Code 040, No Remark) + +In the HELP section, Transom LL = 22.5"" ... so I'm assuming the two 80A product codes reference one unit with a 22.5"" transom (030) and the other references 20"" transom (040) ... suggesting the 6H1-45300-A3-4D is the fit for a 75TLRZ (where L = 20"" transom) ... and listed under the 80A/040 model. + +However, Boats.net lists the 6H1-45300-A3-4D as compatible with 2001 C90TLRZ (and a few year-correct C-series 75HP engines) ... is there a difference between C-series and non-C series lowers? Whereas the 6H1-45300-16-4D is listed as the fit for the non-C series 90TLRZ (and very few 75HP engines). + +https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/6H1-45300-A3-4D?titan_sku=6H1-45300-A3-4D + +Having trouble figuring out what the subtle differences (if any) are between all these different lower units." +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.","The bulb will stay in a semi firm mode,like a half full once she's running and after normal shutdown","The bulb will stay in a semi firm mode,like a half full once she's running and after normal shutdown","When was the VST filter and the HP filter changed last? Yamaha will run up to RPM with dirty filters and fall on its face when under a heavy load IE...Rough water. + +Make sure the oil tank on the engine is full and unplug the harness on the reserve tank take it for a ride and see if the problem still occurs. + +FYI, cruising RPM for your engine is in the 4000rpm range." +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.",I am new to gas engines this size. What's the best way to check fuel lines for air leak or fuel leak is obvious look for fuel I assume. But for air leak do is spray lines with soapy water spray?,I am new to gas engines this size. What's the best way to check fuel lines for air leak or fuel leak is obvious look for fuel I assume. But for air leak do is spray lines with soapy water spray?,"There should also be a lever located on the carb, where the throttle cable attaches. You can manually push this lever down, either with engine on or off. Flip the tiller over, exposing the underside with the cables. Push this carb throttle lever down and watch what happens with the cable. Also, push this carb lever down when engine is running in neutral. What happens...increase in rpm, nothing?" +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.","Before you chase your tail on a fuel issue......... + +You will need to check for spark when this condition happens again. Verify ignition spark, if you have ignition then you have a fuel/heat issue.","Before you chase your tail on a fuel issue......... + +You will need to check for spark when this condition happens again. Verify ignition spark, if you have ignition then you have a fuel/heat issue.",Have plenty of room but not sure what you mean by non feedback helm. Its a old (1978) Morse rack and pinion helm. I was thinking of buying this helm and running the second cable to the upper helm but cannot find a cable. Thanks Kelly +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Before you chase your tail on a fuel issue......... + +You will need to check for spark when this condition happens again. Verify ignition spark, if you have ignition then you have a fuel/heat issue. + +Click to expand... + + +It's got to be getting spark, when I am able to start with warm up lever. Right?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Before you chase your tail on a fuel issue......... + +You will need to check for spark when this condition happens again. Verify ignition spark, if you have ignition then you have a fuel/heat issue. + +Click to expand... + + +It's got to be getting spark, when I am able to start with warm up lever. Right?","yes both the block is same,displacement is 1730 cm3, i think you can swap it. + +wajira" +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.",Water pump maintained ?-----------Compression test values are ?,Water pump maintained ?-----------Compression test values are ?,"both engines have alternators? id get rid of the 1 2 BOTH OFF switch and use one of the many solid-state automatic charging systems. You can use one battery as starting battery for both engines and charge it from engine 1 use the other two as house batteries that get charged up by engine 2. Many ways to do this. +Ultimately your goal is to have all the batteries bet fully charged while the engines run but save the starting battery for starting only. Blue sea systems makes a nice setup. you may actually want to add more batteries especially if you like to hang on the hook and run the lights and stereo and computer and tv all evening. your house bank needs to be big enough to handle everything yet not discharge more than 30 percent for safety" +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.","skiffman1 said: + + + + It's got to be getting spark, when I am able to start with warm up lever. Right? + +Click to expand... + + +Don't assume. + +Check your spark at cranking speed with the lever down. Lifting the lever will increase the cranking speed. If you have a weak stator or your starter is weak it will not crank the engine fast enough to generate ignition spark. Lifting the lever may give you just the increase needed to start the engine. + +Simple to check and verify before anything else is checked.","skiffman1 said: + + + + It's got to be getting spark, when I am able to start with warm up lever. Right? + +Click to expand... + + +Don't assume. + +Check your spark at cranking speed with the lever down. Lifting the lever will increase the cranking speed. If you have a weak stator or your starter is weak it will not crank the engine fast enough to generate ignition spark. Lifting the lever may give you just the increase needed to start the engine. + +Simple to check and verify before anything else is checked.",With what you've described it sounds like a spun hub. Remove prop and inspect hub teeth. If they look worn down then replace hub kit. +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.","racerone said: + + + + Water pump maintained ?-----------Compression test values are ?[/QUO + +Recent replacements- spark plugs, water pump, fuel pump, water/ fuel separator, carbuerators completely rebuilt,fuel filters, + +My mechanic is stumped in what is causing this issue to happen intermittently, has offered to have another mechanic checked it out and see if they can find something and he will pay bills. +However I would like ideas and suggestions to keep from getting ripped off on unneeded services. + +Click to expand...","racerone said: + + + + Water pump maintained ?-----------Compression test values are ?[/QUO + +Recent replacements- spark plugs, water pump, fuel pump, water/ fuel separator, carbuerators completely rebuilt,fuel filters, + +My mechanic is stumped in what is causing this issue to happen intermittently, has offered to have another mechanic checked it out and see if they can find something and he will pay bills. +However I would like ideas and suggestions to keep from getting ripped off on unneeded services. + +Click to expand...",After replacing the fuel and air regulators on the port fuel along with the regulator springs and injectors seals the engine started right up once pressure was reached. Ran better than ever for hours and then suddenly shut down like it was turn off. Was not able to be restarted. This sounds more electrical than fuel now though. Any direction to go now? +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.","Limited knowledge of a great boat Mechanic in my area who is trustworthy, I live in Lake City, fl","Limited knowledge of a great boat Mechanic in my area who is trustworthy, I live in Lake City, fl","This is the bolt I think I'm trying to get to - assuming this parts fiche is the one for my engine, which I can't be totally sure about since nothing matches my F25AET code. But it looks the same. The bolt is number 4 here." +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.",Saying that you have to rev in nuetral for a while then quickly throttle up before it stalls tell me there are issues.-----------What are the compression numbers on this motor ?-----------And have you tried opening the SLOW SPEED mixture needle 1/2 turn to see what happens ?,Saying that you have to rev in nuetral for a while then quickly throttle up before it stalls tell me there are issues.-----------What are the compression numbers on this motor ?-----------And have you tried opening the SLOW SPEED mixture needle 1/2 turn to see what happens ?,"Thanks for the reply but one thing I forgot to mention (sorry!). When I reconnect the fat red wire coming from the starter back to the battery, the console lights and gauges come on. About 15 seconds after that is when the buzzers sounds. This would be the exact behavior if I were to just turn the ignition key on and not start the engine." +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.","racerone said: + + + + Saying that you have to rev in nuetral for a while then quickly throttle up before it stalls tell me there are issues.-----------What are the compression numbers on this motor ?-----------And have you tried opening the SLOW SPEED mixture needle 1/2 turn to see what happens ?[/QUOTE + +I know nothing about mechanics of motor. Compression readings were fine when all repairs were done. About adjusting screw, I would not even know where that screw is located. + +Another thing is as soon as I get home and put water muffs on and turn key, it always fires up without having to lift warm up lever. Even sometime while out after it will not crank and I decide to troll some then go to crank it as normal just in neutral it will fire up flawlessly, then some days I can run it and won't have this issue at all. Very puzzling. + +Click to expand...","racerone said: + + + + Saying that you have to rev in nuetral for a while then quickly throttle up before it stalls tell me there are issues.-----------What are the compression numbers on this motor ?-----------And have you tried opening the SLOW SPEED mixture needle 1/2 turn to see what happens ?[/QUOTE + +I know nothing about mechanics of motor. Compression readings were fine when all repairs were done. About adjusting screw, I would not even know where that screw is located. + +Another thing is as soon as I get home and put water muffs on and turn key, it always fires up without having to lift warm up lever. Even sometime while out after it will not crank and I decide to troll some then go to crank it as normal just in neutral it will fire up flawlessly, then some days I can run it and won't have this issue at all. Very puzzling. + +Click to expand...","According to the Yamaha USA website, a 75PLRZ was not offered here in the US. + +In what country are you located?" +"Help everyone. My motor will crank right up from the ramp. I can go 2 miles out in saltwater. Cut engine off and use trolling motor for a while. Then when ready to head another direction, boat motor will turn over when I turn the key but will not start. The only way it will start is if I pull warm up level all the way up and running for a few minutes, then push lever down in a hurry and throttle up quickly and then it will run fine, until I shut it off again. Last weekend I took to local lake and it did not happen once. This intermittent thing is so crazy. I have had spark plugs changed, oil change, gas lines and filters changed, fuel pump replaced, fuel water filter changed, carbuerators completely rebuilt, run non ethanol with ring free additive mixed in and still have problem. Recently empty fuel tank and put fresh non ethanol gas in tank. Anybody who has ever heard about a motor doing this or witnessed it with their own, that could give me any ideas, would be greatly appreciated.","Is your battery fully charged, Is it being charged when running? What chris was saying is engine must crank 200-300 rpm in order for stator to generate an ignition spark, Compression test and an open air gap spark test need to be done before a fuel diagnosis. Have stator coils been inspected? Tested?","Is your battery fully charged, Is it being charged when running? What chris was saying is engine must crank 200-300 rpm in order for stator to generate an ignition spark, Compression test and an open air gap spark test need to be done before a fuel diagnosis. Have stator coils been inspected? Tested?",Normal +"Gentlemen. I have a question. How to find a difference visually under the hood between F5 & F6 2010 year build? +I'll explain why I need to know. In my country before we had a rule that you do not need a license up to 5 HP.. So some people were buying 6 HP outboard's but registering them like a 5 HP. Now I found one to buy, looks quite ok, but how can I check that it is really 6 HP. Because even stickers changed. + + +Thanks in advance for your help","Post a serial #and or model #,look on freeze plugs for possible #s","Post a serial #and or model #,look on freeze plugs for possible #s","My understanding is the DVA adapter is used for reading coil output voltages with the motor cranking. I have already checked charge/pulser coils and resistance is in spec, it was just two circuits on the CDI that were WAY out of spec. The more reading I do and getting feedback here I am assuming it is fine to use a digital meter for resistance. + +I also ordered a DVA and it just arrived, I was going to check output voltages just to be sure but my manuals only give the procedure for using a Yamaha Y-1 tester, they do not give voltage outputs. Does anyone know the Pulser/charge coil voltages on these motors? + +Thanks" +"Hi guys, I have an 08 Yamaha 250 vmax. Recently the trim tilt has worked only intermittently while on the water but seems fine when on the trailer. both the throttle mounted button and the engine cowl mounted button seem effected. Ill try many times to get it to go up or down while running, then all of the sudden it runs all the way up or down on its own. Can anyone comment on where I might start looking for the culprit",Start by checking the brushes in the tilt/trim motor.,Start by checking the brushes in the tilt/trim motor.,Is the bulb staying hard when your motor starves ? +"Hi guys, I have an 08 Yamaha 250 vmax. Recently the trim tilt has worked only intermittently while on the water but seems fine when on the trailer. both the throttle mounted button and the engine cowl mounted button seem effected. Ill try many times to get it to go up or down while running, then all of the sudden it runs all the way up or down on its own. Can anyone comment on where I might start looking for the culprit","el3bgames, Advertising on this website is not welcome or condoned !","el3bgames, Advertising on this website is not welcome or condoned !","The exact model name is as follows +115BETO V L +115 hp +B Generation (second) +E Electric Start +T Electro-Hydraulic Trim/Tilt +O Autolub +V 1998 +L Long Stem" +"Hi guys, I have an 08 Yamaha 250 vmax. Recently the trim tilt has worked only intermittently while on the water but seems fine when on the trailer. both the throttle mounted button and the engine cowl mounted button seem effected. Ill try many times to get it to go up or down while running, then all of the sudden it runs all the way up or down on its own. Can anyone comment on where I might start looking for the culprit","Take a look at the harness for worn insulation of wiring,loose connection,corrosion","Take a look at the harness for worn insulation of wiring,loose connection,corrosion","paw2000 said: + + + + also has 4 spades, 2 used for on off functions and the other 2 used for momentary. + +Click to expand... + + +is that info. printed on the switch?" +"Hi guys, I have an 08 Yamaha 250 vmax. Recently the trim tilt has worked only intermittently while on the water but seems fine when on the trailer. both the throttle mounted button and the engine cowl mounted button seem effected. Ill try many times to get it to go up or down while running, then all of the sudden it runs all the way up or down on its own. Can anyone comment on where I might start looking for the culprit",What did you ever find ??,What did you ever find ??,"Yes, you measure from the top of the transom to the bottom of th V." +"I just got a 2003 25hp yamaha 4 stroke, it is not frozen, but with +A breaker bar connected to flywheel nut, the motor is stiff to turn +Over. Not so hard that you have to strain but stiff, even with plugs +Out. The starter is not working, I believe the previous owner burned it up because the positive battery cable is melted about a foot long. Also it was low oil, real low. I filled it back up. Anyway anyone have any idea why it is so stiff?",Pull the L/U and see if it's still stiff.,Pull the L/U and see if it's still stiff.,"kimcrwb1,What's On the back of the dixie 21 looks nothing like what's on the hermco or armstrong web sites,according to you tube site it's called a pod,probably home made, I'm presuming it's plywood that's glassed over and bolted to transom" +"I just got a 2003 25hp yamaha 4 stroke, it is not frozen, but with +A breaker bar connected to flywheel nut, the motor is stiff to turn +Over. Not so hard that you have to strain but stiff, even with plugs +Out. The starter is not working, I believe the previous owner burned it up because the positive battery cable is melted about a foot long. Also it was low oil, real low. I filled it back up. Anyway anyone have any idea why it is so stiff?","Possible slight bearing seizure in lower unit, Main bearings damaged, piston rings starting to seize,valve train damaged or out of adjustment,to name a few.","Possible slight bearing seizure in lower unit, Main bearings damaged, piston rings starting to seize,valve train damaged or out of adjustment,to name a few.",used on almost all boats due to the length of the wires from the helm to the motor +"Hello All, + +My Yamaha 85 2 stroke ( 1995 ) starts but stalls rite away, when i crank up the rpm stays running but it doesnt sound rite and as soon as i lower it to neutral dies. Its been sitting for about 3 months. I checked the fuel line pump and fuel comes out fine..took off the fuel filter and emptied it , drained the fuel from the carbs and stills does the same thing. Im thinking is water in the fuel or some fuel line clogged..but honestly dont know much about this. Please any help will be much appreciated. + +thanks + +Hans",Time to pull the carbs and clean them.,Time to pull the carbs and clean them.,thanks gu7ys +"Hello All, + +My Yamaha 85 2 stroke ( 1995 ) starts but stalls rite away, when i crank up the rpm stays running but it doesnt sound rite and as soon as i lower it to neutral dies. Its been sitting for about 3 months. I checked the fuel line pump and fuel comes out fine..took off the fuel filter and emptied it , drained the fuel from the carbs and stills does the same thing. Im thinking is water in the fuel or some fuel line clogged..but honestly dont know much about this. Please any help will be much appreciated. + +thanks + +Hans","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Time to pull the carbs and clean them.[/QUOTE + +Was reading about that sea foam treatment..any chance that'll work? + +thank u for the help + +Hans + +Click to expand...","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Time to pull the carbs and clean them.[/QUOTE + +Was reading about that sea foam treatment..any chance that'll work? + +thank u for the help + +Hans + +Click to expand...",Yeah I would be interested in a trade. I even have a box of the push pins that hold it to the controls. I have since painted the plate and I'll post a picture of it. Anyway you could upload a picture of yours? +"Hello All, + +My Yamaha 85 2 stroke ( 1995 ) starts but stalls rite away, when i crank up the rpm stays running but it doesnt sound rite and as soon as i lower it to neutral dies. Its been sitting for about 3 months. I checked the fuel line pump and fuel comes out fine..took off the fuel filter and emptied it , drained the fuel from the carbs and stills does the same thing. Im thinking is water in the fuel or some fuel line clogged..but honestly dont know much about this. Please any help will be much appreciated. + +thanks + +Hans",Time to pull the carbs and clean them.,Time to pull the carbs and clean them.,"Sounds like a high temp issue is the root cause, but don't allow the stats to throw you off. Whether stats are incorporated into the cooling system or not, the only way installed stats can exacerbate an already hot motor is by not opening at their predetermined temp. Your engine is running hot with and without stats, so excluded stats as being a cause. + +Using a water pump kit out of model spec shud absolutely be considered as the cause, or at least considered to be contributing to the cause. And just because an engine is freshwater run does not imply it's excluded from corrosion. It's a 20 yr old engine. Bound to corrosion built up in the water passages if never addressed in the past." +"Hello All, + +My Yamaha 85 2 stroke ( 1995 ) starts but stalls rite away, when i crank up the rpm stays running but it doesnt sound rite and as soon as i lower it to neutral dies. Its been sitting for about 3 months. I checked the fuel line pump and fuel comes out fine..took off the fuel filter and emptied it , drained the fuel from the carbs and stills does the same thing. Im thinking is water in the fuel or some fuel line clogged..but honestly dont know much about this. Please any help will be much appreciated. + +thanks + +Hans","Clean from inside of tank all the way to the carbs. Flush lines,primer bulb,pump, Change filter,water/fuel separator. Pull carbs.and Throughly Clean them and rebuild with new gaskets and associated parts","Clean from inside of tank all the way to the carbs. Flush lines,primer bulb,pump, Change filter,water/fuel separator. Pull carbs.and Throughly Clean them and rebuild with new gaskets and associated parts",Wipe the oil off and go boating. +"Hello all!! I'm new to the forum and hope you can help with my situation. I recently purchased a 2000 F-100 carburated engine. Very clean with low hours, just been setting up for a long time. I took the engine to a mechanic for a complete carb rebuild, figured it probably had ethenol sitting in the carbs. Got the engine back after the rebuild and it ran good first time out, just sputterd a little when I wend from idle to run, but high speed was good. Took it back to the mechanic and told him to completely change all the old fuel lines. He did, but also told me that this engine had very small jets and was problematic. He said that if I didn't run this engine at least once per week, that I'd always have problems with it, he also said that I should sell it and buy a fuel injected version. Well, I've owned many carburated outboards and have had NO problems, at least with carburators. Now, the engine will idle (rough), but won't make the transion to high/run, it just dies out. I'm into this engine $1300 just for repairs, should I give up and buy a new one, OR should I insist that he get it running?? I just don't want to pour money in a problematic engine. This thing looks brand new under the cowling, hate to just give up on it. + +Thoughts/comments are greatly appreciated!!",Carbed motors have ran for years. Take it back to him and tell him to fix it correctly. You can also start using non-Ethanol fuel in it and a good fuel system cleaner.,Carbed motors have ran for years. Take it back to him and tell him to fix it correctly. You can also start using non-Ethanol fuel in it and a good fuel system cleaner.,"for what it's worth, when running my motor i never set my selector switch to ""both"" when running. select one battery setting and keep it there. that way you have a fresh battery available and that can save you a tow. a lot of people will suggest to alternate during the day. bad idea ! especially if the engine is not charging. then you are just running both batteries down during the day. leave the charging for both batteries for when you get home. run on the main battery......then switch to the alternate if there is a problem." +"Hello all!! I'm new to the forum and hope you can help with my situation. I recently purchased a 2000 F-100 carburated engine. Very clean with low hours, just been setting up for a long time. I took the engine to a mechanic for a complete carb rebuild, figured it probably had ethenol sitting in the carbs. Got the engine back after the rebuild and it ran good first time out, just sputterd a little when I wend from idle to run, but high speed was good. Took it back to the mechanic and told him to completely change all the old fuel lines. He did, but also told me that this engine had very small jets and was problematic. He said that if I didn't run this engine at least once per week, that I'd always have problems with it, he also said that I should sell it and buy a fuel injected version. Well, I've owned many carburated outboards and have had NO problems, at least with carburators. Now, the engine will idle (rough), but won't make the transion to high/run, it just dies out. I'm into this engine $1300 just for repairs, should I give up and buy a new one, OR should I insist that he get it running?? I just don't want to pour money in a problematic engine. This thing looks brand new under the cowling, hate to just give up on it. + +Thoughts/comments are greatly appreciated!!","Boobie said: + + + + Carbed motors have ran for years. Take it back to him and tell him to fix it correctly. You can also start using non-Ethanol fuel in it and a good fuel system cleaner. + +Click to expand... + + +I will take it back, hopefully he can get it running but not sure he is truly qualified. I' really want to take it to a Yamaha deaer, I just feel like he owes me and I really don't want to start all over. I will add a good water seperator, don't have one now. Non-Ethanol gas is easy to find in my area and thats all I run in my outboards.","Boobie said: + + + + Carbed motors have ran for years. Take it back to him and tell him to fix it correctly. You can also start using non-Ethanol fuel in it and a good fuel system cleaner. + +Click to expand... + + +I will take it back, hopefully he can get it running but not sure he is truly qualified. I' really want to take it to a Yamaha deaer, I just feel like he owes me and I really don't want to start all over. I will add a good water seperator, don't have one now. Non-Ethanol gas is easy to find in my area and thats all I run in my outboards.","....a third possibility is that you have a bad starter. i once ran across this where the starter had such an amp draw that the two batteries ""masked"" the bad starter. i know it is a reach.....have both batteries load tested, then have a starter test done to see how many amps it is drawing." +"Hello all!! I'm new to the forum and hope you can help with my situation. I recently purchased a 2000 F-100 carburated engine. Very clean with low hours, just been setting up for a long time. I took the engine to a mechanic for a complete carb rebuild, figured it probably had ethenol sitting in the carbs. Got the engine back after the rebuild and it ran good first time out, just sputterd a little when I wend from idle to run, but high speed was good. Took it back to the mechanic and told him to completely change all the old fuel lines. He did, but also told me that this engine had very small jets and was problematic. He said that if I didn't run this engine at least once per week, that I'd always have problems with it, he also said that I should sell it and buy a fuel injected version. Well, I've owned many carburated outboards and have had NO problems, at least with carburators. Now, the engine will idle (rough), but won't make the transion to high/run, it just dies out. I'm into this engine $1300 just for repairs, should I give up and buy a new one, OR should I insist that he get it running?? I just don't want to pour money in a problematic engine. This thing looks brand new under the cowling, hate to just give up on it. + +Thoughts/comments are greatly appreciated!!","Update, decided to take the engine to a certified Yamaha dealer on Monday of his week. As it turned out, the original mechanic didn't do anything to the engine, NOTHING!!! I paid him to do a complete carb kit and impeller change, plus all filters. He BS'd me everytime I took it back to him, he is a POS!! The Yamaha dealer got this engine running like a dream. Be careful about the too good to be true shadetree machanics. Think I might take him to small claims court","Update, decided to take the engine to a certified Yamaha dealer on Monday of his week. As it turned out, the original mechanic didn't do anything to the engine, NOTHING!!! I paid him to do a complete carb kit and impeller change, plus all filters. He BS'd me everytime I took it back to him, he is a POS!! The Yamaha dealer got this engine running like a dream. Be careful about the too good to be true shadetree machanics. Think I might take him to small claims court",Thanks. They are the dealer that diagnosed the problem and recommended buying a new engine. +"Hello all!! I'm new to the forum and hope you can help with my situation. I recently purchased a 2000 F-100 carburated engine. Very clean with low hours, just been setting up for a long time. I took the engine to a mechanic for a complete carb rebuild, figured it probably had ethenol sitting in the carbs. Got the engine back after the rebuild and it ran good first time out, just sputterd a little when I wend from idle to run, but high speed was good. Took it back to the mechanic and told him to completely change all the old fuel lines. He did, but also told me that this engine had very small jets and was problematic. He said that if I didn't run this engine at least once per week, that I'd always have problems with it, he also said that I should sell it and buy a fuel injected version. Well, I've owned many carburated outboards and have had NO problems, at least with carburators. Now, the engine will idle (rough), but won't make the transion to high/run, it just dies out. I'm into this engine $1300 just for repairs, should I give up and buy a new one, OR should I insist that he get it running?? I just don't want to pour money in a problematic engine. This thing looks brand new under the cowling, hate to just give up on it. + +Thoughts/comments are greatly appreciated!!",Good for you !! Glad you got it running.,Good for you !! Glad you got it running.,Just think of the money you didnt save. +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?",Shift rod needs to be adjusted.-Adjust it so it pulls up higher I believe.,Shift rod needs to be adjusted.-Adjust it so it pulls up higher I believe.,Most any universal sender should work how deep is the fuel tank? adid you confirm the sender was bad? Turn the ignition switch on and short the two wires to the sender together and the guage should read full? +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?","I hate to ask a question that may be obvious, but where would the adjustment be? At the powerhead end of the rod or in the leg?","I hate to ask a question that may be obvious, but where would the adjustment be? At the powerhead end of the rod or in the leg?","First of all you want to see if the problem is in the steering system or the motor. Disconnect the link arm that connects the steering cable to the engine. Turn the wheel and see how it turns. If it turns easy, try turning the motor by hand, more than likely, it is stiff. + +If the wheel still turns hard, remove the cable from the engine, or at least disconnect it and try again. The problem may be in the steering tube on the engine and it might be able to be cleaned and lubricated. Bottom line is to locate the source of the friction prior to throwing any money at the problem. + +There is no permanent fix for a tight cable, it has to be replaced. The identification numbers should be molded into the cable housing near the motor end. The new cable will come with the rack on the end, it's four bolts and out it comes. + +Make sure you clean out the steering tube and lube everything up good prior to reassembly. It may be less expensiveness to buy a new packaged system than buying the cable alone but you may need to do some alterations to install the new helm. + +Good luck" +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?","Bullie said: + + + + I hate to ask a question that may be obvious, but where would the adjustment be? At the powerhead end of the rod or in the leg? + +Click to expand... + + +on the leg","Bullie said: + + + + I hate to ask a question that may be obvious, but where would the adjustment be? At the powerhead end of the rod or in the leg? + +Click to expand... + + +on the leg","I would still look at the impeller and take some pictures for us. The impeller and it's base plate should look almost pristine.. no deformation in the fins and no gouges on the plate. To me, that's the most likely issue. Next time you get the warning, make sure the pee stream is actually hot. If it's cool or only slightly warm to the touch, it's probably not overheating and you have a bad thermoswitch or CDI unit." +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?","A picture is worth 1000 words from someone that has no idea what they are doing. + +https://youtu.be/XlBiU-vtLL0 + +I think I did what you told me to.","A picture is worth 1000 words from someone that has no idea what they are doing. + +https://youtu.be/XlBiU-vtLL0 + +I think I did what you told me to.","Lever is free and engages fine, its a 2017 yamaha 4 stroke outboard, i have to pull the lever almost all the way down in order for the boat to move very slow in reverse" +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?","Bullie said: + + + + A picture is worth 1000 words from someone that has no idea what they are doing. + +https://youtu.be/XlBiU-vtLL0 + +I think I did what you told me to. + +Click to expand... + + +Did it work?","Bullie said: + + + + A picture is worth 1000 words from someone that has no idea what they are doing. + +https://youtu.be/XlBiU-vtLL0 + +I think I did what you told me to. + +Click to expand... + + +Did it work?",I'm floating (or at least attempting to) a 1994 272 Baja 28 foot off shore with a single 454 engine. I have not had time to look yet but generally where is that connection located? Is that connection located on the engine? BTW ... I'm also trying to debug a no start problem and suspecting I'm not getting spark. I've eliminated fuel as the problem. Not sure if there would be a common thread to the two problems there?? +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?","No. In the video I was turning the prop and you could hear it ""ticking"". Didn't help that I could tell.","No. In the video I was turning the prop and you could hear it ""ticking"". Didn't help that I could tell.","No, have follow Yamaha:s in my enginepark 5, 15, 20 and 30hp (30hp Autolube) twostroke and 70hp (forstroke) +The smaler hp engine not nearby in smoke when I start +The smoke problem start one or two years ago. + + +The neighbor asked if there was a fire in the boat when I start the Yamaha. + +Is it possible that the oil pump can deliver too much oil? +The oil pump is mechanical and driven by the crankshaft, can sealing oil pump be broken so that compression from the crankcase? + +/Matts" +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?",?-------Did you mark the shift rod before the adjustment ??-----Explain in some detail what you did during this trial and error.,?-------Did you mark the shift rod before the adjustment ??-----Explain in some detail what you did during this trial and error.,"Hi! Thank you for your answers! +I have attached some photos and a video. With the video, I show you how I adjusted the gas and the firing rods. When the CDI indicator is on the first line, the gas pedal is just touching the roller. Is this setting correct? I also attached the manual I found online. But with this ignition setup it looks different than it does on my boat engine. I also don't understand why the pipe only goes from the middle carburetor to the crankcase. Is it only in the middle throat that there is thickening?" +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?","No. I did not mark the shift rod. + + +I loosened the lock nut and rotated the shift rod connector lower on the shift rod then moved the shift lever forward to attempt to engage the forward gear.","No. I did not mark the shift rod. + + +I loosened the lock nut and rotated the shift rod connector lower on the shift rod then moved the shift lever forward to attempt to engage the forward gear.",tried starts dies i put my choke starts first turn and then adjust and goes to fast idle. warm up or put in gear no biggy. +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?","I do not believe you "" adjusted "" anything here !---------Take the time to see how that works.----Ask yourself "" are both parts the same thread "" And check if they are too.--------Or find a shop to adjust it in 5 minutes.","I do not believe you "" adjusted "" anything here !---------Take the time to see how that works.----Ask yourself "" are both parts the same thread "" And check if they are too.--------Or find a shop to adjust it in 5 minutes.",i would replace the wing nuts if you have them with standard nuts...and throw an old or cheap box end wrench in the battery compartment..then when you are back there charging batteries etc check them for tightness as part of the routine...use anti corrosive on the terminals and you are set to go...good battery connections prevent all kind of potential problems such as wire crystallization etc... +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?","Ok. I am sure I didn't. I think I understand your riddled answer. If I just screwed the nut down, which is all I did, I didn't actually do anything but lower the connector on the shaft. I really would rather learn something than pay someone to do it.","Ok. I am sure I didn't. I think I understand your riddled answer. If I just screwed the nut down, which is all I did, I didn't actually do anything but lower the connector on the shaft. I really would rather learn something than pay someone to do it.","Latest info... + +Checked the spark on all cylinders.. they all sparked. + +Latest news is the engine seems to run OK with the cowl off... but when the cowl is on it won't even idle. + +Also the idle screw doesn't seem to have much of an affect on the idle. + +That's all I have right now." +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?","Bullie said: + + + + Ok. I am sure I didn't. I think I understand your riddled answer. If I just screwed the nut down, which is all I did, I didn't actually do anything but lower the connector on the shaft. I really would rather learn something than pay someone to do it. + +Click to expand... + + +Its like a turn buckle turn it one way it lenghtens the shift between the shifting handle to the shift forks turn it the other way it shortens the assembly if you turned it the wrong way it would make it so its harder to get out of reverse","Bullie said: + + + + Ok. I am sure I didn't. I think I understand your riddled answer. If I just screwed the nut down, which is all I did, I didn't actually do anything but lower the connector on the shaft. I really would rather learn something than pay someone to do it. + +Click to expand... + + +Its like a turn buckle turn it one way it lenghtens the shift between the shifting handle to the shift forks turn it the other way it shortens the assembly if you turned it the wrong way it would make it so its harder to get out of reverse","Hi All, +thought I'd update as my problem still persists. Ive done extensive diagnosis and it seems the water stops pumping when the motor rises up on plane. I've tried it many times over the last few days and its always the same; no problem at idle right up through fast cruising, but as soon as the boat planes up, the tell tale stops and it overheats. Same thing at in neutral; fine until I lift he motor to a certain height, but with the intake still well under water. I've replaced the water pump with all gaskets and thermostat. Its been checked and double checked by a local well respected mechanic. It seems that on plane, the water pump is above the water level; am I correct that the pump should be sucking the water up at this time? Any reason it wouldn't be? Anyone seen this condition? My family loves being on the boat but theyre getting bored with headway speed all summer. Thanks!" +"I have a 9.9 Yamaha that will not engage forward gear. It will shift into neutral and reverse and stay there, working as it should. When I shift into forward there is a ticking sound but no engagement (prop doesn't spin) of the forward gear. If I pull the shift lever with some force to the front the gears will engage momentarily but will release when I let go of the shift lever. I have a bit of tinkering experience with old OMCs but, I admit freely, gear cases are a bit of a mystery to me. I assume the clutch dog and forward gear would need to be replaced? Am I on the right track here? What else should I look for?","Yep. I wasn't thinking about what I was doing and was only moving the connector up and down the shaft. Like racerone said, I wasn't adjusting anything. Anyway, thanks to you, TBrutlag, and racerone I was able to get it adjusted properly and everything is working as it should now. I appreciate your help and patience.","Yep. I wasn't thinking about what I was doing and was only moving the connector up and down the shaft. Like racerone said, I wasn't adjusting anything. Anyway, thanks to you, TBrutlag, and racerone I was able to get it adjusted properly and everything is working as it should now. I appreciate your help and patience.","Two green wires from the lighting coil. Both to the rectifier. One of the green wires is jumpered to another green wire that connects to the ten pin harness. The green wire in the ten pin harness runs to the helm. It connects to another green wire that runs to the tachometer. + +The lighting coil creates AC electricity. AC is converted to DC by the rectifier. The tachometer is measuring the cycles in the AC and converting it to RPM." +"hello I had posted a while back about this motor as no spark on any cly. someone had told me they was voltage sensitive I had a new battery but I piggy back another in series and had spark on one bottom cly.. Put battery charge on it at 60 amps around 15 volts got fire on two bottom clys.. This with the plugs out haven't tried it with plugs in. I need to sell the boat I had a stroke five years ago and want be getting back out on the water nobody wants a boat that won't crank thanks for any help you can give me +Ken",UPDATE. fire on bottom cylinder port side top cylinder starboard side,UPDATE. fire on bottom cylinder port side top cylinder starboard side,"Ayuh,.... Rustoleum white industrial enamel,....." +I'm working on a customers Yamaha and it is getting water in #6 cyl only. I ran a compression check and it is within factory spec. It has rust and brown build up on the plug. I pulled the head and the top of the piston showed evidence of water/fuel burn with some slight pitting.I had the head machined thinking it may have been a warped head problem. The head gasket did not give any clues as to water entering thru the metal gasket seal. I put it back together with new plugs and ran the motor on hose for about an hour varying the RPM from idle to about 2500 RPM and pulled the plug and it looked normal. I let it cool down and re-torqued the head to factory spec. My customer ran the boat over the weekend and said it ran better but still seemed to be lacking power at WOT and his hole shot was suffering. The first thing i did was pull the plugs and look at the tip for burn residue. #6 again showed signs of water getting into the combustion chamber causing brown build up on the plug and eventually fowling it out. My question is: Can this motor get water into the cylinder via the exhaust system? If so is it usually just a gasket failure around the inner and/or outer exhaust cover. I have never encountered this problem before on the Yamaha outboards however this motor has had a previous rebuild and I can't rule out that as a source or cause of the problem.,Is this engine reaching operating temp? Did you do a leak down test on the cylinder in question? Did you inspect the cylinder head for holes? I do this with alcohol.,Is this engine reaching operating temp? Did you do a leak down test on the cylinder in question? Did you inspect the cylinder head for holes? I do this with alcohol.,"Ayuh,... For paintin' a Trailer,... + +It's pretty hard to beat Rustoleum, industrial enamel...." +I'm working on a customers Yamaha and it is getting water in #6 cyl only. I ran a compression check and it is within factory spec. It has rust and brown build up on the plug. I pulled the head and the top of the piston showed evidence of water/fuel burn with some slight pitting.I had the head machined thinking it may have been a warped head problem. The head gasket did not give any clues as to water entering thru the metal gasket seal. I put it back together with new plugs and ran the motor on hose for about an hour varying the RPM from idle to about 2500 RPM and pulled the plug and it looked normal. I let it cool down and re-torqued the head to factory spec. My customer ran the boat over the weekend and said it ran better but still seemed to be lacking power at WOT and his hole shot was suffering. The first thing i did was pull the plugs and look at the tip for burn residue. #6 again showed signs of water getting into the combustion chamber causing brown build up on the plug and eventually fowling it out. My question is: Can this motor get water into the cylinder via the exhaust system? If so is it usually just a gasket failure around the inner and/or outer exhaust cover. I have never encountered this problem before on the Yamaha outboards however this motor has had a previous rebuild and I can't rule out that as a source or cause of the problem.,"Thanks Chris +Yes the engine is reaching N.O.T. I didn't do a leak down because the compression was 128 PSI which was +/- 3 PSI of all other cyls. I did inspect the head visually for cracks or holes and requested the machine shop check it for the same they said it was good. I pulled the exhaust cover and inspected the water passage and exhaust for indications of a crack or pin hole, nothing out of the ordinary found with one exception. There are 6 round mounds with flat tops and they are a little smaller dia. than a dime. They are molded into the casting and the only one that has a hole in it is the one on #6 cylinder. I don't know if that is by design and normal or if it is a result of corrosion. I have never noticed it before but I have not chased a problem like this before. I have attached picture to help identify what I am referring to.","Thanks Chris +Yes the engine is reaching N.O.T. I didn't do a leak down because the compression was 128 PSI which was +/- 3 PSI of all other cyls. I did inspect the head visually for cracks or holes and requested the machine shop check it for the same they said it was good. I pulled the exhaust cover and inspected the water passage and exhaust for indications of a crack or pin hole, nothing out of the ordinary found with one exception. There are 6 round mounds with flat tops and they are a little smaller dia. than a dime. They are molded into the casting and the only one that has a hole in it is the one on #6 cylinder. I don't know if that is by design and normal or if it is a result of corrosion. I have never noticed it before but I have not chased a problem like this before. I have attached picture to help identify what I am referring to.","I have an '02 F115 and getting to the VST tank and filter is a pain on that engine. I've had to change that filter twice in the past 3 years thanks to ethanol. You can clean that filter and the tank with carb spray but for the price, if I'm going in that deep to get to it, I'll put a new one in and save the old. 1st time I didn't change the gasket on the top of the VST tank. I pulled the gasket and cleaned everything well then used it again. 2nd time I bought a new one and replaced it as it was quite compressed and I wasn't sure of its ability to seal anymore. IF your VST tank is burried, at the same time you change that VST filter, change all other in-lines that lead up to it and use a clear glass bottle to hand-squeeze plenty of fuel through so you make sure you've fluched everything out that could be in the lines." +I'm working on a customers Yamaha and it is getting water in #6 cyl only. I ran a compression check and it is within factory spec. It has rust and brown build up on the plug. I pulled the head and the top of the piston showed evidence of water/fuel burn with some slight pitting.I had the head machined thinking it may have been a warped head problem. The head gasket did not give any clues as to water entering thru the metal gasket seal. I put it back together with new plugs and ran the motor on hose for about an hour varying the RPM from idle to about 2500 RPM and pulled the plug and it looked normal. I let it cool down and re-torqued the head to factory spec. My customer ran the boat over the weekend and said it ran better but still seemed to be lacking power at WOT and his hole shot was suffering. The first thing i did was pull the plugs and look at the tip for burn residue. #6 again showed signs of water getting into the combustion chamber causing brown build up on the plug and eventually fowling it out. My question is: Can this motor get water into the cylinder via the exhaust system? If so is it usually just a gasket failure around the inner and/or outer exhaust cover. I have never encountered this problem before on the Yamaha outboards however this motor has had a previous rebuild and I can't rule out that as a source or cause of the problem.,"I would pull the exhaust cover again, pump #6 full of shop air and spray the area under the cover with soapy water just verify.","I would pull the exhaust cover again, pump #6 full of shop air and spray the area under the cover with soapy water just verify.","where as the idle speed is computer controlled, if the throttle cable/lever isn't adjust properly, it could be forcing your throttle to pull on the throttle linkage i.e., causing the idle to seem too high. Or as one might say, throttling up the engine. + +Disconnect the throttle cable, make sure all the linkages are all the way back to the idle position. start the engine and see if the idle goes down. If it does, hold the throttle cable up beside where it connects, it should fit right on without having to pull the lever or adjust the cable length. If it doesn't fit, the cable is not adjusted correctly." +I'm working on a customers Yamaha and it is getting water in #6 cyl only. I ran a compression check and it is within factory spec. It has rust and brown build up on the plug. I pulled the head and the top of the piston showed evidence of water/fuel burn with some slight pitting.I had the head machined thinking it may have been a warped head problem. The head gasket did not give any clues as to water entering thru the metal gasket seal. I put it back together with new plugs and ran the motor on hose for about an hour varying the RPM from idle to about 2500 RPM and pulled the plug and it looked normal. I let it cool down and re-torqued the head to factory spec. My customer ran the boat over the weekend and said it ran better but still seemed to be lacking power at WOT and his hole shot was suffering. The first thing i did was pull the plugs and look at the tip for burn residue. #6 again showed signs of water getting into the combustion chamber causing brown build up on the plug and eventually fowling it out. My question is: Can this motor get water into the cylinder via the exhaust system? If so is it usually just a gasket failure around the inner and/or outer exhaust cover. I have never encountered this problem before on the Yamaha outboards however this motor has had a previous rebuild and I can't rule out that as a source or cause of the problem.,"Did the leak check with soapy water and detected no leaks. So, I have eliminated the head, head gasket, cylinder sleeve, and exhaust/water jacket as a source of water intrusion. I guess the next step is pulling the power head to check out the casing and exhaust manifold gaskets and the crankshaft seal. A leak in the manifold or casing gaskets should affect more than just #6 cylinder I would think. However a lower crank case seal would more than likely just show up on #6 so I'm laying odds that I may have a bad lower crank shaft seal however the motor doesn't seem like it sits low enough in the water to expose the lower seal to water. +Does anyone have any other suggestions before the power head comes off?","Did the leak check with soapy water and detected no leaks. So, I have eliminated the head, head gasket, cylinder sleeve, and exhaust/water jacket as a source of water intrusion. I guess the next step is pulling the power head to check out the casing and exhaust manifold gaskets and the crankshaft seal. A leak in the manifold or casing gaskets should affect more than just #6 cylinder I would think. However a lower crank case seal would more than likely just show up on #6 so I'm laying odds that I may have a bad lower crank shaft seal however the motor doesn't seem like it sits low enough in the water to expose the lower seal to water. +Does anyone have any other suggestions before the power head comes off?","re: ""I agree on the risks of using of the Honda EU units, but will tell you that many people are using them, and doing so safely. +It's like many things.... ya gots to be smart about it! "" + +100% correct but.....Sigh... I've learned over the years to NEVER underestimate the ability of folks to get things totally wrong." +"Hi! New guy here... +At 56 years old I have my first outboard after 30+ years of inboards + +I have an older 85 hp 3 cyl that came with a 703. I'm converting to a 704 binnacle. +I have the 704 & the 10 pin cable. +I know I need an ignition switch. +Question # 1 is which one? +Question # 2 is how does the choke work with the 704? The 703 has a ""fast idle"" lever. I've seen ignitions with a ""push to choke"" & one with a choke switch in the center. + +Thanks in advance, +Joe","el3bgames, Why don't you get the hell off of this site ?? You're not wanted !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!","el3bgames, Why don't you get the hell off of this site ?? You're not wanted !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!","The only way to make the electric drive work would be to have a diesel powered generator - too much energy for batteries alone...then you need to make sure everything is rated appropriately (duty cycle)...I'm positive you will find new diesels cheaper than a new diesel electric drive system. + +You are likely to find the diesel conversion is NOT cost effective...if you want the range to increase your dollars will be better spent buying larger fuel tanks...or by slowing down...you can research david pascoe's articles to get a more comprehensive view from an objective, experienced individual...and the points made are still valid today. + +If you really want the diesels, I'd suggest buying a used boat with a pair already installed...with the leap in fuel prices a few years ago, used boats are very cheap...a lot less hassle to buy it already configured." +"I have a good powerhead from a 1988 Yamaha 220 special. It's a v6 2.6 liter, 220 hp motor. Will that powerhead bolt on and work for all 2.6 L Yamaha 150, 175, 200 hp motors between model years 1984 and 1992?","Your response has no correlation with the question asked. You are using this forum to sell your product and not answering my question. Hopefully, the sponsors of this forum will put a end to your gimmick!","Your response has no correlation with the question asked. You are using this forum to sell your product and not answering my question. Hopefully, the sponsors of this forum will put a end to your gimmick!",Use tinned marine grade wires and solder all crimp connections then seal them in shrink wrap tubing. +"I have a good powerhead from a 1988 Yamaha 220 special. It's a v6 2.6 liter, 220 hp motor. Will that powerhead bolt on and work for all 2.6 L Yamaha 150, 175, 200 hp motors between model years 1984 and 1992?",ditto,ditto,"I am by no means a qualified electrician, but if you haven't made any changes to the AC electrical system of your boat, I would start by checking if the AC is being delivered correctly to the shore power outlet that your power cord connects to. + +Here in the northwest, there are quite a few floating homes, floating boat sheds and so forth. My Dad had a boat shed with electricity. One day we were going to add a 110v outlet to make it more convenient. We shut off the breaker, but when we opened up the box containing the outlet we were going to extend from, we got a nice fat spark. One of the neighbors had apparently incorrectly wired their main breaker box. + +In your case, I would start by asking the marina, or whoever owns the shore power outlet that you plug into, to check it to see if the power is being supplied correctly." +I am looking at buying a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke. Motor is currently a remote steer and I need to convert to tiller. I have called a couple Yamaha dealers with no success. How difficult is it to convert a remote steer to tiller? I am concerned about the availability to find the parts needed to do this to an older motor. Thanks in advance,"Hey Barroll, I work at a dealership that sells online parts and I have the MRP rigging manual. It looks like for your engine you would need 2 kits the first is the actual handle assembly and it is fairly pricey Partspak.com sells it for $441.60: http://www.partspak.com/productcart...ng-Main-Assembly-6X4421035500-2946p728014.htm and the second would be the kit for the handle fittings which will run you another $140: http://www.partspak.com/productcart...iller-Fitting-Kit-6X4421024100-2946p44308.htm + +this is for any Yamaha 90 HP 2 stroke engine","Hey Barroll, I work at a dealership that sells online parts and I have the MRP rigging manual. It looks like for your engine you would need 2 kits the first is the actual handle assembly and it is fairly pricey Partspak.com sells it for $441.60: http://www.partspak.com/productcart...ng-Main-Assembly-6X4421035500-2946p728014.htm and the second would be the kit for the handle fittings which will run you another $140: http://www.partspak.com/productcart...iller-Fitting-Kit-6X4421024100-2946p44308.htm + +this is for any Yamaha 90 HP 2 stroke engine",I would suggest a factory service manual for that model. +I am looking at buying a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke. Motor is currently a remote steer and I need to convert to tiller. I have called a couple Yamaha dealers with no success. How difficult is it to convert a remote steer to tiller? I am concerned about the availability to find the parts needed to do this to an older motor. Thanks in advance,Just a comment. When possible it is suggested to support the Host site to continue to provide a forum for the many users you depend on it.,Just a comment. When possible it is suggested to support the Host site to continue to provide a forum for the many users you depend on it.,"Jim Marshall said: + + + + Black wire with ring terminal to ground. Blue wire to Up on gauge green wire to down. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks for the reply, it I am still confused. The three wires coming from the sender are black, orange and pink. The terminals on the gauge are marked G, I and S. So not much is matching." +I am looking at buying a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke. Motor is currently a remote steer and I need to convert to tiller. I have called a couple Yamaha dealers with no success. How difficult is it to convert a remote steer to tiller? I am concerned about the availability to find the parts needed to do this to an older motor. Thanks in advance,"Well said Jim,let's hope everyone reads this thread.","Well said Jim,let's hope everyone reads this thread.","ClassicAQ said: + + + +I'd say yamaha is spot on. Since you're familiar w/auto mechanics, if you pulled the transmission pan and found metal shavings bc the customer says they're experiencing transmission issues....same issue here. Plenty of used/rebuilt LUs on ebay/craigslist tho if he's looking to save $$$. + +Click to expand... + +I'd say you could be wrong. I would go so far to say that you are wrong. Not enough facts for you to know one way or the other." +I am looking at buying a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke. Motor is currently a remote steer and I need to convert to tiller. I have called a couple Yamaha dealers with no success. How difficult is it to convert a remote steer to tiller? I am concerned about the availability to find the parts needed to do this to an older motor. Thanks in advance,Looks like someone can't read english,Looks like someone can't read english,"A friend of mine used a pourable transom repair mix that really worked out well. Here's the website for the product, http://transomrepair.com/catalog/. Check it out and look at the directions." +"I ve got a 2002 75HP two stroke that I am trying to remove the trim and tilt assembly. Got it free, slides up and down freely. I can t get it off cause the engine mount brackets won t allow it to come. It s to wide. +it looks like I either have to move the port or stbd bracket out a bit so the unit will clear. Gotta be a better way","That's the only way I know of. Yeah, it sucks.","That's the only way I know of. Yeah, it sucks.","The port you point to is just for monitoring your exhaust. A bit like the way that a tell tale shows you a sample of the water coming through your cooling system. I'm not 100% sure about this, but I imagine it also has to do with allowing the air to escape from the muffler as the leg is lowered into the water. + +Stuart" +I change the water pump impeller on this 9.9 yamaha outboard and later found quite a lot of water in the lower unit. What did I do wrong?,Likely nothing----Pressure test to find the leak .------Install a complete seal kit to prevent leakage for the next 30 years.,Likely nothing----Pressure test to find the leak .------Install a complete seal kit to prevent leakage for the next 30 years.,"You're talking about a bronze Garboard Drain fitting, correct? + + + + + + +I agree that 5200 will work well and will help prevent it from turning. +Be sure to use bronze screws to keep the metals similar. +One may end up being a machine screw w/ nut and with a bonding wire connected to it on the inside. + +As with any metallic components attached to the stern, keep a 1"" distance from anti-fouling paint contact. +Similar to what this guy DIDN'T do first time around, but is correcting now. + + + + + +." +"boat a new boat, well new to me... And well i got problems right off the bat. + +It's a 1994 150hp 2-cycle. +So the issue is that when the boat warms up, about 15-20 minutes into running it, an alarm goes off under the dash and when that happens the engine will not get above 2200-2400 rpms and shakes pretty bad, it doesn't die. The first time this happened it was under load in the water, but it also would do it in neutral when i attempted to rev it up that way. It will also do it on bunny ears in the driveway too. Basically as soon as the engine is at operating temperature the alarm goes off and this happens doesn't seem to matter if its under load or not. + +I have no gauges to tell me what the alarm could be... The water is spitting out of the engine in a nice steady stream, the oil reservoir on the engine is half full, the spark plugs aren't brand new but pretty damn close. When I took them all out they all appear to have the same amount of carbon build up, not too bad on all of them. +I tried removing the spark plug wires while its running, cant really tell if any of them aren't firing, i cant tell if its dropping rpms when i pull them. (is it very minor on these motors?) but it seems like they would be since when the boot is close to the plug its arching to the top of the spark plug on all the wires. + +I don't know any ideas?","First thing, Is she over heating? Place hand in telltale stream, you should be able to hold it there indefinitely, Next place fingers for a 6 second count on either cylinder head, If fingers get scorched she'running to hot! A infrared temp. gun will do the same.That alarm is telling you there's an issue,Overheating,low oil,insufficient fuel/oil flow, Your engine is going into limp mode to protect itself from further damage, It's shutting down half the cylinders by orders of the ECU","First thing, Is she over heating? Place hand in telltale stream, you should be able to hold it there indefinitely, Next place fingers for a 6 second count on either cylinder head, If fingers get scorched she'running to hot! A infrared temp. gun will do the same.That alarm is telling you there's an issue,Overheating,low oil,insufficient fuel/oil flow, Your engine is going into limp mode to protect itself from further damage, It's shutting down half the cylinders by orders of the ECU","Try some seafoam in fuel tank, As chris said in thread #4,they don't clean up very well, Pull one carb. off and take a look inside." +"boat a new boat, well new to me... And well i got problems right off the bat. + +It's a 1994 150hp 2-cycle. +So the issue is that when the boat warms up, about 15-20 minutes into running it, an alarm goes off under the dash and when that happens the engine will not get above 2200-2400 rpms and shakes pretty bad, it doesn't die. The first time this happened it was under load in the water, but it also would do it in neutral when i attempted to rev it up that way. It will also do it on bunny ears in the driveway too. Basically as soon as the engine is at operating temperature the alarm goes off and this happens doesn't seem to matter if its under load or not. + +I have no gauges to tell me what the alarm could be... The water is spitting out of the engine in a nice steady stream, the oil reservoir on the engine is half full, the spark plugs aren't brand new but pretty damn close. When I took them all out they all appear to have the same amount of carbon build up, not too bad on all of them. +I tried removing the spark plug wires while its running, cant really tell if any of them aren't firing, i cant tell if its dropping rpms when i pull them. (is it very minor on these motors?) but it seems like they would be since when the boot is close to the plug its arching to the top of the spark plug on all the wires. + +I don't know any ideas?","Ok, thankyou I will need to try that today. Last night I checked the compression and all the cylinders are at 120","Ok, thankyou I will need to try that today. Last night I checked the compression and all the cylinders are at 120",When last did you change the actual impellar? +"boat a new boat, well new to me... And well i got problems right off the bat. + +It's a 1994 150hp 2-cycle. +So the issue is that when the boat warms up, about 15-20 minutes into running it, an alarm goes off under the dash and when that happens the engine will not get above 2200-2400 rpms and shakes pretty bad, it doesn't die. The first time this happened it was under load in the water, but it also would do it in neutral when i attempted to rev it up that way. It will also do it on bunny ears in the driveway too. Basically as soon as the engine is at operating temperature the alarm goes off and this happens doesn't seem to matter if its under load or not. + +I have no gauges to tell me what the alarm could be... The water is spitting out of the engine in a nice steady stream, the oil reservoir on the engine is half full, the spark plugs aren't brand new but pretty damn close. When I took them all out they all appear to have the same amount of carbon build up, not too bad on all of them. +I tried removing the spark plug wires while its running, cant really tell if any of them aren't firing, i cant tell if its dropping rpms when i pull them. (is it very minor on these motors?) but it seems like they would be since when the boot is close to the plug its arching to the top of the spark plug on all the wires. + +I don't know any ideas?","ok so it's definitely an overheating problem not oil. Checked the oil pump and it's all good. + +I replaced the thermostats, the ""starboard"" side's thermostat was not bad but i still replaced it. The 'port"" side had a lot of corrosion and about a 1/2 golfball size chunk of salt sitting behind it, replaced that one too after cleaning all the gunk out. (I did check the stats in boiling water and they did both open however...) either way there's new ones in there now. + +Then I ran some salt away stuff through it with the whole thing sitting in a big tub and ran it for about 15-20 minutes, the telltale stay relatively cool the whole time. Seemed good, but when I put some bunny ears on and was just flushing it with clean water it sounded the alarm again at about 5 minutes. + +I discovered that the temperature sending unit on the starboard side is the culprit for triggering the alarm, when i just tried unplugging it it turned it off and likewise turned it back on when i plugged it back in. It's a bit strange as that side of the enginer was alot cleaner than the port side. + +So I don't know, what should I do next? Should I pull the heads so i can really get in there or is there something else I could do before that? + +Also out of curiosity the two hole at the back of the engine, these are for exhaust right? Water isnt supposed to come out of them also? (because its not) +One of the attachments I uploaded is a picture of these holes... + +And one last thing there's some sorta oil or grease leaking down the side of the midsection. Now im not sure if it's just flushing some crap out from the top of the powerhead or if this is yet another concern. It's a milking brownish color... I uploaded a picture of that too. + +I appreciate your help","ok so it's definitely an overheating problem not oil. Checked the oil pump and it's all good. + +I replaced the thermostats, the ""starboard"" side's thermostat was not bad but i still replaced it. The 'port"" side had a lot of corrosion and about a 1/2 golfball size chunk of salt sitting behind it, replaced that one too after cleaning all the gunk out. (I did check the stats in boiling water and they did both open however...) either way there's new ones in there now. + +Then I ran some salt away stuff through it with the whole thing sitting in a big tub and ran it for about 15-20 minutes, the telltale stay relatively cool the whole time. Seemed good, but when I put some bunny ears on and was just flushing it with clean water it sounded the alarm again at about 5 minutes. + +I discovered that the temperature sending unit on the starboard side is the culprit for triggering the alarm, when i just tried unplugging it it turned it off and likewise turned it back on when i plugged it back in. It's a bit strange as that side of the enginer was alot cleaner than the port side. + +So I don't know, what should I do next? Should I pull the heads so i can really get in there or is there something else I could do before that? + +Also out of curiosity the two hole at the back of the engine, these are for exhaust right? Water isnt supposed to come out of them also? (because its not) +One of the attachments I uploaded is a picture of these holes... + +And one last thing there's some sorta oil or grease leaking down the side of the midsection. Now im not sure if it's just flushing some crap out from the top of the powerhead or if this is yet another concern. It's a milking brownish color... I uploaded a picture of that too. + +I appreciate your help",Still trying to load pix +"boat a new boat, well new to me... And well i got problems right off the bat. + +It's a 1994 150hp 2-cycle. +So the issue is that when the boat warms up, about 15-20 minutes into running it, an alarm goes off under the dash and when that happens the engine will not get above 2200-2400 rpms and shakes pretty bad, it doesn't die. The first time this happened it was under load in the water, but it also would do it in neutral when i attempted to rev it up that way. It will also do it on bunny ears in the driveway too. Basically as soon as the engine is at operating temperature the alarm goes off and this happens doesn't seem to matter if its under load or not. + +I have no gauges to tell me what the alarm could be... The water is spitting out of the engine in a nice steady stream, the oil reservoir on the engine is half full, the spark plugs aren't brand new but pretty damn close. When I took them all out they all appear to have the same amount of carbon build up, not too bad on all of them. +I tried removing the spark plug wires while its running, cant really tell if any of them aren't firing, i cant tell if its dropping rpms when i pull them. (is it very minor on these motors?) but it seems like they would be since when the boot is close to the plug its arching to the top of the spark plug on all the wires. + +I don't know any ideas?","Running on muffs,possibly not enough volume of water,go back to tub to see if overheating issue subsides. Since desalting in tub have the RsPM increased, Not a fan of revving in neutral,no load on engine.","Running on muffs,possibly not enough volume of water,go back to tub to see if overheating issue subsides. Since desalting in tub have the RsPM increased, Not a fan of revving in neutral,no load on engine.","Timguy, +Thanks for taking time to reply. All good suggestions. It's pretty much broken entirely off, no more than an inch from prop shaft housing. I haven't done a runout of the prop shaft but it wasn't running when broken. The prop has wear but no broken blades. Hoping shaft will gauge OK but anything out of round would probably induce serious vibrations although I've seem some with missing chunks of prop that surprisingly didn't vibrate to badly. This is a 2019 or possibly 2020 Yamaha F150LB....short of taking a part of motor to paint shop for matching, does anyone have the correct code? + +I haven't ordered the weld on replacement skeg but may just order the largest and then cut/machine to original. May trace a neighbor's . Welding, I'm going to hire a pro to weld. I have a 225 MIG and 210 TIG but not great with the TIG yet. Had assumed TIG would be best but you are right regarding minimizing heat. I have used MIG for aluminum, .035 but run through the cable, no gun in inventory. Still...professionals seem best on this. Thanks Gerry" +"Engine is only running on 3 cylinders. I am getting fuel and spark, put new plugs. Have 120 lbs of compression on all 4 cylinderspots. I can't figure out why it won't fire on 4. Any help would be appreciated.","Answer the questions.------Which cylinder is not firing.-------Does spark in fact jump a gap of 3/8"" or 1 cm on the cylinder that is not firing ?--------------Does engine respond if you spray some fuel into the carburetor ?------------Have you looked into a reed valve issue ?","Answer the questions.------Which cylinder is not firing.-------Does spark in fact jump a gap of 3/8"" or 1 cm on the cylinder that is not firing ?--------------Does engine respond if you spray some fuel into the carburetor ?------------Have you looked into a reed valve issue ?",".The trouble with the bulb is it collapses given the power of the pump. Collapsed it reduces the flow and if I let itrun the pump overheats to where it will trip the breaker. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... It Sounds like ya have a restriction in the aux. tank's outlet fittin',...... + +Pull the pick-up dip tube, 'n clear the obstruction,.... + +I'm guessin' the filter is there because there's crap in that tank,..... +Otherwise, the fuel is filtered just before it gets to the fuel pump on the motor,...." +"Engine is only running on 3 cylinders. I am getting fuel and spark, put new plugs. Have 120 lbs of compression on all 4 cylinderspots. I can't figure out why it won't fire on 4. Any help would be appreciated.","Looking from the back it is the bottom left cylinder. It does get good spark, with the plug out there is fuel spraying out of the sparkplug hole. Maybe to much fuel? Have not checked reed valve. It's almost like that cylinder is out of time or something. The other 3 cylinders run strong, just nothing from that one. Swapped power packs, and new plugs, nothing changes. Someone told me to change the fuel pump, but idk.","Looking from the back it is the bottom left cylinder. It does get good spark, with the plug out there is fuel spraying out of the sparkplug hole. Maybe to much fuel? Have not checked reed valve. It's almost like that cylinder is out of time or something. The other 3 cylinders run strong, just nothing from that one. Swapped power packs, and new plugs, nothing changes. Someone told me to change the fuel pump, but idk.","rICARDOmARINE, +hI, i KNOW THIS IS AN OLD POST BUT IF YOU SEE THIS CAN YOU ANSWER IN LAYMAN-ME DUMB-TERMS. +i HAVE A 1990 sEA RAY 350. pOWERED BY 2 7.4 ENGINES. Port is on a single battery. Starboard is on 2 in parallel. The 2nd being a house battery. When the house drains it then takes the starting battery. No gen set so i'd like to add another house to the existing one. Isolator to keep it from back feeding? Alt. is 70 amp I believe. +Thanks +Gator" +"Engine is only running on 3 cylinders. I am getting fuel and spark, put new plugs. Have 120 lbs of compression on all 4 cylinderspots. I can't figure out why it won't fire on 4. Any help would be appreciated.",Yes it could be the fuel pump has a ruptured diaphragm.------Pull it apart and have a look before buying parts.,Yes it could be the fuel pump has a ruptured diaphragm.------Pull it apart and have a look before buying parts.,"Cheers guys, prop has been given to agent for replacement" +"Engine is only running on 3 cylinders. I am getting fuel and spark, put new plugs. Have 120 lbs of compression on all 4 cylinderspots. I can't figure out why it won't fire on 4. Any help would be appreciated.","The fuel pump looks good . It is 17 years old, guess it couldn't hurt to change it.","The fuel pump looks good . It is 17 years old, guess it couldn't hurt to change it.","Glad you found something...I'd also suggest silicone dielectric grease on the connector halves....it's great for keeping the water out....and if you wanna go all out, get some nyogel for the conductive pins...." +"I travel mostly at 3700 RPMs and my right throttle is about two inches pasted the left. It's been this way for a long time and I kinder got use to it . Should I tinker with this. I don't want to knock everything out of adjustment if that is possiable. Is it just a simple adjustment at the control head . I rarely go full throttle but at that the right is way behind the left at throttles full forward.??? +Any Ideas would help; Thanks","Unless your control cables are the same length and age, it will always be like that.","Unless your control cables are the same length and age, it will always be like that.",Time top start checking for lose wires throughout the system. CHeck you battery nuts (and especially the wing nuts if you have them on your battery terminals and crank them down tight. You have power to the console so check the power to the ignition switch feed and if that is good the exit while someone is turning the key. You may have a black metal bus bar in your console that serves as the (-) for all of your gear... your main (-) wiring harness for the outboard may reside under one of the larger bolts to that bus bar... make sure it is tight. +"I have a 2004 Yamaha F225TXRC. There are 330 hours on the engine. After spending $3500 at a Cocoa, Fl. place, my issue remains the same. I'm not the type to return to the scene of a crime, or if a Dr. cut off my left arm instead of left leg. Why would you expect better results? Cooler now, I'll work it. + +Symptoms: I used the boat infrequently, mostly run the engine monthly. The fuel tank was drained and cleaned. The engine ran well at idle at the dock for a time, now it will struggle and die. My son noticed that the fuel filter bowl in the engine drops below the filter element about half way down the bowl just before it dies. I can turn the key off and it will restart and run immediately. When it first starts to struggle, pumping the fuel primer bulb helps. + +Actions: The shop did a full annual service. Injectors were removed and ultrasonic cleaned, one was replaced with a new Yamaha injector. Plugs are new (I did that) and good. Removed the VST and cleaned it. The fuel pumps were tested on the bench. They did run the boat on open water tests using a gas can direct to the engine. During the open water test, the engine bogged down at 3500 RPM. Fuel pressure fluctuated, drops to 35PSI under load. High pressure fuel pump was replaced and the VST, screens cleaned. + +The fuel filter is new. It has a bowl and drained several oz. and it was clear. New fuel is non-ethanol. I do have a Yamaha fuel flow sending unit installed just after the fuel filter. I removed it, I'm wondering now if the paddle wheel is sticking. That could account for the sudden stall after traveling 1/2 mile but not the 3500 RPM limit. Haven't tested it yet. I also noted when the engine wants to die, pushing up the throttle up only worsens the situation. + +Any insight would be appreciated. + +Also, any experience with the diagnostic sets (pigtail and SW) available from E-bay vendors? Seems they are all out of the country.","I need to provide more info. +The maintenance log states that it was run on a separate tank. I also ran it on a portable tank of fresh fuel, same problem but the heat here in August convinced me to throw in the towel and let the pro's do it. +The fuel tank was drained (90 gal) and cleaned. Issue is the fuel sending unit does not seem to be disturbed. How else would it be ""cleaned"" if not through that hole? +Starting and running the motor at idle is not an issue, unless it decides to quit after a few or 15-20 minutes or whenever. I made a quick attempt at full throttle in a ""slow speed"" zone and felt it bog down. Didn't continue. +The high pressure pump was replaced. The VST was cleaned twice to include any screens to include VST and all injectors. I do not see a reference where the low pressure pump was replaced. I read somewhere that O'Riley's auto stores has a low pressure pump that can be used with little modification. +All of the electrical connectors were inspected and reconnected. +I removed the Fuel Management sending unit from the fuel feed, wondering if the vane is sticking. Engine started well, ran at the lift with RPM raging from idle to 1200RPM increasing the RPMs and letting it run at that speed. No open water trial.","I need to provide more info. +The maintenance log states that it was run on a separate tank. I also ran it on a portable tank of fresh fuel, same problem but the heat here in August convinced me to throw in the towel and let the pro's do it. +The fuel tank was drained (90 gal) and cleaned. Issue is the fuel sending unit does not seem to be disturbed. How else would it be ""cleaned"" if not through that hole? +Starting and running the motor at idle is not an issue, unless it decides to quit after a few or 15-20 minutes or whenever. I made a quick attempt at full throttle in a ""slow speed"" zone and felt it bog down. Didn't continue. +The high pressure pump was replaced. The VST was cleaned twice to include any screens to include VST and all injectors. I do not see a reference where the low pressure pump was replaced. I read somewhere that O'Riley's auto stores has a low pressure pump that can be used with little modification. +All of the electrical connectors were inspected and reconnected. +I removed the Fuel Management sending unit from the fuel feed, wondering if the vane is sticking. Engine started well, ran at the lift with RPM raging from idle to 1200RPM increasing the RPMs and letting it run at that speed. No open water trial.","paw2000 said: + + + + also has 4 spades, 2 used for on off functions and the other 2 used for momentary. + +Click to expand... + + +is that info. printed on the switch?" +"I have a 2004 Yamaha F225TXRC. There are 330 hours on the engine. After spending $3500 at a Cocoa, Fl. place, my issue remains the same. I'm not the type to return to the scene of a crime, or if a Dr. cut off my left arm instead of left leg. Why would you expect better results? Cooler now, I'll work it. + +Symptoms: I used the boat infrequently, mostly run the engine monthly. The fuel tank was drained and cleaned. The engine ran well at idle at the dock for a time, now it will struggle and die. My son noticed that the fuel filter bowl in the engine drops below the filter element about half way down the bowl just before it dies. I can turn the key off and it will restart and run immediately. When it first starts to struggle, pumping the fuel primer bulb helps. + +Actions: The shop did a full annual service. Injectors were removed and ultrasonic cleaned, one was replaced with a new Yamaha injector. Plugs are new (I did that) and good. Removed the VST and cleaned it. The fuel pumps were tested on the bench. They did run the boat on open water tests using a gas can direct to the engine. During the open water test, the engine bogged down at 3500 RPM. Fuel pressure fluctuated, drops to 35PSI under load. High pressure fuel pump was replaced and the VST, screens cleaned. + +The fuel filter is new. It has a bowl and drained several oz. and it was clear. New fuel is non-ethanol. I do have a Yamaha fuel flow sending unit installed just after the fuel filter. I removed it, I'm wondering now if the paddle wheel is sticking. That could account for the sudden stall after traveling 1/2 mile but not the 3500 RPM limit. Haven't tested it yet. I also noted when the engine wants to die, pushing up the throttle up only worsens the situation. + +Any insight would be appreciated. + +Also, any experience with the diagnostic sets (pigtail and SW) available from E-bay vendors? Seems they are all out of the country.",Keep us posted after open water trial. Definitely sounds like a fuel restriction or weak low pressure fuel pump issue.,Keep us posted after open water trial. Definitely sounds like a fuel restriction or weak low pressure fuel pump issue.,"If you cant do it yourself, i wouldnt bother. Shouldnt be to difficult, assuming its dry. Sand down the surface surounding the hole. if you can access from the inside, layer in some wet fiberglass matting, let dry fully between layers. then on the outside layer on a sheet of fiberglass cloth. after it drys, coat with fiberglass resin a couple more times. Sand smooth and paint. Small scratches marine tex works well." +"I have a 2004 Yamaha F225TXRC. There are 330 hours on the engine. After spending $3500 at a Cocoa, Fl. place, my issue remains the same. I'm not the type to return to the scene of a crime, or if a Dr. cut off my left arm instead of left leg. Why would you expect better results? Cooler now, I'll work it. + +Symptoms: I used the boat infrequently, mostly run the engine monthly. The fuel tank was drained and cleaned. The engine ran well at idle at the dock for a time, now it will struggle and die. My son noticed that the fuel filter bowl in the engine drops below the filter element about half way down the bowl just before it dies. I can turn the key off and it will restart and run immediately. When it first starts to struggle, pumping the fuel primer bulb helps. + +Actions: The shop did a full annual service. Injectors were removed and ultrasonic cleaned, one was replaced with a new Yamaha injector. Plugs are new (I did that) and good. Removed the VST and cleaned it. The fuel pumps were tested on the bench. They did run the boat on open water tests using a gas can direct to the engine. During the open water test, the engine bogged down at 3500 RPM. Fuel pressure fluctuated, drops to 35PSI under load. High pressure fuel pump was replaced and the VST, screens cleaned. + +The fuel filter is new. It has a bowl and drained several oz. and it was clear. New fuel is non-ethanol. I do have a Yamaha fuel flow sending unit installed just after the fuel filter. I removed it, I'm wondering now if the paddle wheel is sticking. That could account for the sudden stall after traveling 1/2 mile but not the 3500 RPM limit. Haven't tested it yet. I also noted when the engine wants to die, pushing up the throttle up only worsens the situation. + +Any insight would be appreciated. + +Also, any experience with the diagnostic sets (pigtail and SW) available from E-bay vendors? Seems they are all out of the country.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Keep us posted after open water trial. Definitely sounds like a fuel restriction or weak low pressure fuel pump issue. + +Click to expand... + +Gentlemen you are Super! +I did remove the fuel management sender Saturday, and this morning I went and made sure all of the fuel hose clamps were centered on the barb and firm/tight. The one at the input side of the primer bulb was secure, clamp would not move but not tight. Took care of them all and my son, son-in-law took it out for a trial. +No stalling and no hesitation after a 4.5 mile put-put looking for speed bumps. +Got into the River and let it rip. Slowly increased to 5000 RPMs and 32 mph. Increased to near 6000 RPM but only for a minute. We went out with the cowling removed and I'm deaf now, but a good deaf. + + +Getting back to the dock, I did hear the relays reset so no issue there. + + +The primer bulb is a generic (Atwood?). It's behaving itself now, but I may buy a Yamaha one. I had 2 in the past and the failure point was obvious when they suddenly went rock hard. + + +I have one last question. Do these shops have their techs working on commission? Reason why I ask. I found my old car shop did but after they wanted to replace my complete AC on a 1999 Dodge truck for $950. Told him to close the hood. The AC has been working for 2 years now after tapping the clutch. + + +So, lesson learned: come to you guys and discuss before considering a marine shop. + + +Thanks again!","johnnygjr said: + + + + Keep us posted after open water trial. Definitely sounds like a fuel restriction or weak low pressure fuel pump issue. + +Click to expand... + +Gentlemen you are Super! +I did remove the fuel management sender Saturday, and this morning I went and made sure all of the fuel hose clamps were centered on the barb and firm/tight. The one at the input side of the primer bulb was secure, clamp would not move but not tight. Took care of them all and my son, son-in-law took it out for a trial. +No stalling and no hesitation after a 4.5 mile put-put looking for speed bumps. +Got into the River and let it rip. Slowly increased to 5000 RPMs and 32 mph. Increased to near 6000 RPM but only for a minute. We went out with the cowling removed and I'm deaf now, but a good deaf. + + +Getting back to the dock, I did hear the relays reset so no issue there. + + +The primer bulb is a generic (Atwood?). It's behaving itself now, but I may buy a Yamaha one. I had 2 in the past and the failure point was obvious when they suddenly went rock hard. + + +I have one last question. Do these shops have their techs working on commission? Reason why I ask. I found my old car shop did but after they wanted to replace my complete AC on a 1999 Dodge truck for $950. Told him to close the hood. The AC has been working for 2 years now after tapping the clutch. + + +So, lesson learned: come to you guys and discuss before considering a marine shop. + + +Thanks again!","Glinley said: + + + + Thanks, do you know where to get an adapter harness or would possibly have a part number. Anything would help + +Click to expand... + + +You get them from your Yamaha dealer. Technical bulletin O93-006 refers." +"I have a 2004 Yamaha F225TXRC. There are 330 hours on the engine. After spending $3500 at a Cocoa, Fl. place, my issue remains the same. I'm not the type to return to the scene of a crime, or if a Dr. cut off my left arm instead of left leg. Why would you expect better results? Cooler now, I'll work it. + +Symptoms: I used the boat infrequently, mostly run the engine monthly. The fuel tank was drained and cleaned. The engine ran well at idle at the dock for a time, now it will struggle and die. My son noticed that the fuel filter bowl in the engine drops below the filter element about half way down the bowl just before it dies. I can turn the key off and it will restart and run immediately. When it first starts to struggle, pumping the fuel primer bulb helps. + +Actions: The shop did a full annual service. Injectors were removed and ultrasonic cleaned, one was replaced with a new Yamaha injector. Plugs are new (I did that) and good. Removed the VST and cleaned it. The fuel pumps were tested on the bench. They did run the boat on open water tests using a gas can direct to the engine. During the open water test, the engine bogged down at 3500 RPM. Fuel pressure fluctuated, drops to 35PSI under load. High pressure fuel pump was replaced and the VST, screens cleaned. + +The fuel filter is new. It has a bowl and drained several oz. and it was clear. New fuel is non-ethanol. I do have a Yamaha fuel flow sending unit installed just after the fuel filter. I removed it, I'm wondering now if the paddle wheel is sticking. That could account for the sudden stall after traveling 1/2 mile but not the 3500 RPM limit. Haven't tested it yet. I also noted when the engine wants to die, pushing up the throttle up only worsens the situation. + +Any insight would be appreciated. + +Also, any experience with the diagnostic sets (pigtail and SW) available from E-bay vendors? Seems they are all out of the country.","Thanks for the update, A lot of threads never get back to the forum with results,good to hear your running","Thanks for the update, A lot of threads never get back to the forum with results,good to hear your running","You might want to check the fuel pump, there could be a hole in the diaphram." +"I have a 2004 Yamaha F225TXRC. There are 330 hours on the engine. After spending $3500 at a Cocoa, Fl. place, my issue remains the same. I'm not the type to return to the scene of a crime, or if a Dr. cut off my left arm instead of left leg. Why would you expect better results? Cooler now, I'll work it. + +Symptoms: I used the boat infrequently, mostly run the engine monthly. The fuel tank was drained and cleaned. The engine ran well at idle at the dock for a time, now it will struggle and die. My son noticed that the fuel filter bowl in the engine drops below the filter element about half way down the bowl just before it dies. I can turn the key off and it will restart and run immediately. When it first starts to struggle, pumping the fuel primer bulb helps. + +Actions: The shop did a full annual service. Injectors were removed and ultrasonic cleaned, one was replaced with a new Yamaha injector. Plugs are new (I did that) and good. Removed the VST and cleaned it. The fuel pumps were tested on the bench. They did run the boat on open water tests using a gas can direct to the engine. During the open water test, the engine bogged down at 3500 RPM. Fuel pressure fluctuated, drops to 35PSI under load. High pressure fuel pump was replaced and the VST, screens cleaned. + +The fuel filter is new. It has a bowl and drained several oz. and it was clear. New fuel is non-ethanol. I do have a Yamaha fuel flow sending unit installed just after the fuel filter. I removed it, I'm wondering now if the paddle wheel is sticking. That could account for the sudden stall after traveling 1/2 mile but not the 3500 RPM limit. Haven't tested it yet. I also noted when the engine wants to die, pushing up the throttle up only worsens the situation. + +Any insight would be appreciated. + +Also, any experience with the diagnostic sets (pigtail and SW) available from E-bay vendors? Seems they are all out of the country.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Thanks for the update, A lot of threads never get back to the forum with results,good to hear your running + +Click to expand... + + +Feedback is very important. You never know where you are until someone tells you.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Thanks for the update, A lot of threads never get back to the forum with results,good to hear your running + +Click to expand... + + +Feedback is very important. You never know where you are until someone tells you.","Redbrand said: + + + + Since I am new to this all I presume the helm means the steering wheel and assy ? Or refering the to the motor end on the steering. + +FYI - this is a rotary system from what I have been told - not a rack n pinon.... + +Thanks for the U tube I will look at asap. + +I am planning to pull the old cable out very soon. Its in my boat slip and work will have to be done while boat is in the water. Not a project to be doing in Winter +time !!!! + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... The Helm is the thingy the wheel mounts too,.... + +To pull the wheel,... +Pop the center cap off, 'n loosen the nut, so's it's dead flush with the shaft,... +Sit in yer seat, 'n push as hard as ya can, with yer knees/ legs, Upward on the wheel,.... +Then WACK the nut good, 'n hard,... +The wheel should pop off the taper at that point,... +If not, do it again,..." +"I have a 2004 Yamaha F225TXRC. There are 330 hours on the engine. After spending $3500 at a Cocoa, Fl. place, my issue remains the same. I'm not the type to return to the scene of a crime, or if a Dr. cut off my left arm instead of left leg. Why would you expect better results? Cooler now, I'll work it. + +Symptoms: I used the boat infrequently, mostly run the engine monthly. The fuel tank was drained and cleaned. The engine ran well at idle at the dock for a time, now it will struggle and die. My son noticed that the fuel filter bowl in the engine drops below the filter element about half way down the bowl just before it dies. I can turn the key off and it will restart and run immediately. When it first starts to struggle, pumping the fuel primer bulb helps. + +Actions: The shop did a full annual service. Injectors were removed and ultrasonic cleaned, one was replaced with a new Yamaha injector. Plugs are new (I did that) and good. Removed the VST and cleaned it. The fuel pumps were tested on the bench. They did run the boat on open water tests using a gas can direct to the engine. During the open water test, the engine bogged down at 3500 RPM. Fuel pressure fluctuated, drops to 35PSI under load. High pressure fuel pump was replaced and the VST, screens cleaned. + +The fuel filter is new. It has a bowl and drained several oz. and it was clear. New fuel is non-ethanol. I do have a Yamaha fuel flow sending unit installed just after the fuel filter. I removed it, I'm wondering now if the paddle wheel is sticking. That could account for the sudden stall after traveling 1/2 mile but not the 3500 RPM limit. Haven't tested it yet. I also noted when the engine wants to die, pushing up the throttle up only worsens the situation. + +Any insight would be appreciated. + +Also, any experience with the diagnostic sets (pigtail and SW) available from E-bay vendors? Seems they are all out of the country.","I read this thread with interest as I have a pair of 05 F225 Yam's on my boat. One of them is acting up in a similar fashion to yours and I have yet to get to the bottom of the problem. + +I saw a reference to a pump from Oreilly's. Here are two pumps advertised on ebay. The low pressure pump (the one located outside the VST) from Yamaha is over 400 bucks. + +These are a fraction of the price. I bought one just for grins. I have yet to install it. Anyone else have any luck with this Yam issue? I have already replaced the bulbs, trimmed all the fuel lines, new clamps, all new filters, pulled and cleaned the VST, etc. + + + +http://www.ebay.com/itm/291393695827?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT + + +http://www.ebay.com/itm/152174305353?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT","I read this thread with interest as I have a pair of 05 F225 Yam's on my boat. One of them is acting up in a similar fashion to yours and I have yet to get to the bottom of the problem. + +I saw a reference to a pump from Oreilly's. Here are two pumps advertised on ebay. The low pressure pump (the one located outside the VST) from Yamaha is over 400 bucks. + +These are a fraction of the price. I bought one just for grins. I have yet to install it. Anyone else have any luck with this Yam issue? I have already replaced the bulbs, trimmed all the fuel lines, new clamps, all new filters, pulled and cleaned the VST, etc. + + + +http://www.ebay.com/itm/291393695827?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT + + +http://www.ebay.com/itm/152174305353?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT","So the engine can be started with fuel sprayed into the air intake, but it doesn't remain running. Also, the YDS stationary injector test fails for all injectors. I wouldn't suspect both injector drivers failed independently. If the repair manual doesn't tell you how to test them, it might still give the spec on output peak voltage (which you can measure while cranking it). + +When you turn the key to the On position, can you hear the fuel pump whirr and prime the system? If the stationary injector test fails for all injectors and you don't hear the fuel pump turn on, I would suspect a bad relay, fuse or wiring harness. I'm not sure how the fuses are grouped on your engine, but the manual should tell you. On my little F50, I have one fuse that groups the ECM, ignition coil, electric fuel pump, fuel injector, idle speed control, and the vapor separator. If your ignition coils and injectors are on the same fuse, then I would say that's not your problem (though you can check it for continuity anyway), because the engine wouldn't fire up when spraying fuel into the air intake if the ignition coil wasn't getting power. So in that case, I'd move on to checking the fuel pump relay(s). Then the wiring harness. + +If all that looks good, then I would test the output peak voltage of the ECM and the pulser coil. The manual should have steps/specs for that." +"I already bought an others ECU & INYECTOR DRIVER. +THE INJECTORS 2&5 DON'T WORK. +I would like to know if the ECU shoot down this. +I APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!! +THANKS",Two Cylinders shut down until you hit approx 1800rpm in gear.,Two Cylinders shut down until you hit approx 1800rpm in gear.,"The 150hp 2-strokes weight the same as the 200hp motors as far as I remember, they were pretty much the same motor ...." +"I already bought an others ECU & INYECTOR DRIVER. +THE INJECTORS 2&5 DON'T WORK. +I would like to know if the ECU shoot down this. +I APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!! +THANKS","This INJECTORS remain off Frome starting. I probe them with a led. +I opened the injectors driver unit, don't seems to be bad anything. +I don't know if the ECU turn off this INJECTORS to govern the engine for the sing of some sensor.","This INJECTORS remain off Frome starting. I probe them with a led. +I opened the injectors driver unit, don't seems to be bad anything. +I don't know if the ECU turn off this INJECTORS to govern the engine for the sing of some sensor.","cb8296 said: + + + +VX225TLRY - If I jumper the fuse and even touch the positive lead to the battery terminal it wants to weld and sparks go everywhere and blows apart my test lead. Any ideas? + +Click to expand... + + +Blown fuses usually indicate a bad ground. Your attempt at jumping the fuse with subsequent arc tells me you definitely have no ground. You need to determine if indeed your ground lead from the cranking battery to starter is compromised. First check the connections at both ends, make sure they are free from corrosion. If good, meter test the ground lead for resistance/continuity. I'm guessing your problem is here. If not, it's possible the ground terminal on starter is bad. + +All in all, I believe this is a ground issue from what you've described. You'll have to trace the ground from its source forward, find the resistance." +"I already bought an others ECU & INYECTOR DRIVER. +THE INJECTORS 2&5 DON'T WORK. +I would like to know if the ECU shoot down this. +I APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!! +THANKS","I didn't understand your answer. +The neutral switch is not working. +I'll see what is wrong with this, perhaps that's the problem. +THANKS A LOT","I didn't understand your answer. +The neutral switch is not working. +I'll see what is wrong with this, perhaps that's the problem. +THANKS A LOT",Ok thanks. What do you think of the Oddessey line of batteries? They have some that might fit under the passenger seat. +"I already bought an others ECU & INYECTOR DRIVER. +THE INJECTORS 2&5 DON'T WORK. +I would like to know if the ECU shoot down this. +I APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!! +THANKS","This is a statement. + +Two Cylinders shut down until you hit approx 1800rpm in gear.","This is a statement. + +Two Cylinders shut down until you hit approx 1800rpm in gear.","I had a similar problem and it had all he same symptoms as yours, to include blowing air down from the tell-tale to up through the pick up tube from the water pump. And I got air flow and smoke tested it also.. (but probably not enough flow) I took the power head off and all the covers off the water jacket system. There was powdered sediment in there that I had to pick out like a dental cleaning, (but it was not completely blocking anything) but that was not the problem, that was some of the result of the problem I was having. (new pump was also put in, bucket tested the pump before re-install etc. lot of water coming out of the pump . reassembled , same results. Took it apart again ,had the adapterplate laying on a bench with the water pick up tube still in there and noticed somethng had fallen from the top of the pick up tube and got stuck at the opening, It looked like a small washer with a pin hole in the center of it. Picked it out and crushed it between fingers ( it had kinda of dried /glued itself together) and it was the same dried up powder found in the engine, In summary it was a clog at the top of the water pipe. When I ran the motor it would act like a valve/sink stopper and stop waterflow. When compressed air was blown through the tell-tale it would open up a small ;; hole in the center of the clog, etc etc. so you would get air flow which is stronger than the running waterpressure of the pump, thus faking you out. . pulled out the water pick up tube , cleaned it out and it now runs fine. I do not how your motor is designed, so yours may be different." +"I already bought an others ECU & INYECTOR DRIVER. +THE INJECTORS 2&5 DON'T WORK. +I would like to know if the ECU shoot down this. +I APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!! +THANKS","Chris, your saying once above 1800 rpms, 2 and 5 kick in and fire up or vice versa. Actually i didn't understand the question at first.","Chris, your saying once above 1800 rpms, 2 and 5 kick in and fire up or vice versa. Actually i didn't understand the question at first.","I already have the 90 hp Yamaha on a 16 foot homemade alum. boat, and is too much weight. The 115 hp Johnson 2 stroke is kind of loud and uses a good bit of gas. Usually like to just ride around quite a bit at lower speeds and just thinking about 90 hp 4 stroke being under a load of 20 foot boat and people in boat. I am thinking about power of 2 stroke compared to 4 stroke with less hp. I think I am over thinking this." +"I already bought an others ECU & INYECTOR DRIVER. +THE INJECTORS 2&5 DON'T WORK. +I would like to know if the ECU shoot down this. +I APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!! +THANKS","Two cylinders shut down below 1800 rpm. + +When the ecm see the shift event(From Neutral into gear) it will energize the two injectors when the ecm sees approximately 1800rpm. + + +If the shift switch is not working the engine will not rev. + +You cannot jump the switch, the ecm has to see neutral and then see the shift into gear.","Two cylinders shut down below 1800 rpm. + +When the ecm see the shift event(From Neutral into gear) it will energize the two injectors when the ecm sees approximately 1800rpm. + + +If the shift switch is not working the engine will not rev. + +You cannot jump the switch, the ecm has to see neutral and then see the shift into gear.",Compare the part number differences for the 9.9 and the 15 HP models. To determine which 15 parts needed to be installed on the 9.9 to increase its HP to 15. Then inspect the motor to verify that the parts have been installed. +"I already bought an others ECU & INYECTOR DRIVER. +THE INJECTORS 2&5 DON'T WORK. +I would like to know if the ECU shoot down this. +I APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!! +THANKS",thanks for the clarification,thanks for the clarification,"Sounds too slow. could be a lot of things though, so more info required. Does the boat live in the water or on a trailer?" +"I already bought an others ECU & INYECTOR DRIVER. +THE INJECTORS 2&5 DON'T WORK. +I would like to know if the ECU shoot down this. +I APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!! +THANKS","CHRIS, Yesterday I proved the neutral switch at the stb side in the engine. It was not working. I already repaired and make proves running, plugin an unplug the switch connector, but nothing happens except a little contrary effect, when unplug, a little good done. There isn't the original control so I suppose there's have to be another switch that blackout the starter and most have to be another wire line for that.. I look at engine,there are couple of free connectors but didn't know which is it the right. I can't find the electric diagram. When I asked to the Yamaha locals distributor something different than the 60 HP's they don't know nothing. I m very grateful to your help.","CHRIS, Yesterday I proved the neutral switch at the stb side in the engine. It was not working. I already repaired and make proves running, plugin an unplug the switch connector, but nothing happens except a little contrary effect, when unplug, a little good done. There isn't the original control so I suppose there's have to be another switch that blackout the starter and most have to be another wire line for that.. I look at engine,there are couple of free connectors but didn't know which is it the right. I can't find the electric diagram. When I asked to the Yamaha locals distributor something different than the 60 HP's they don't know nothing. I m very grateful to your help.","Capt Bob - Yep, I figured that out. I'm going to wire it in with a seperate float switch as in Rick's diagram." +"I already bought an others ECU & INYECTOR DRIVER. +THE INJECTORS 2&5 DON'T WORK. +I would like to know if the ECU shoot down this. +I APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!! +THANKS","This is not a neutral safety switch and will not prevent the starter from doing its job. + +It is just a shift event switch. It tells the ecm that the engine is in gear and allows it to rev.","This is not a neutral safety switch and will not prevent the starter from doing its job. + +It is just a shift event switch. It tells the ecm that the engine is in gear and allows it to rev.",The leak that happens intermittently is what drains the engine mounted oil tank. I can’t catch it. I can use the boat sometimes and there is no oil leak. Then other times the engine oil tank is drained down and there is oil everywhere in the compartment and transom. It’s not coming from the cap or the connection at the bottom of the tank +"I already bought an others ECU & INYECTOR DRIVER. +THE INJECTORS 2&5 DON'T WORK. +I would like to know if the ECU shoot down this. +I APPRECIATE ANY HELP!!!! +THANKS",I have a 01 ox66 txrz . cyls 2&5 stay off line while not in gear to allow the engine to reach operational temp. hope this helps.,I have a 01 ox66 txrz . cyls 2&5 stay off line while not in gear to allow the engine to reach operational temp. hope this helps.,"I already have the 90 hp Yamaha on a 16 foot homemade alum. boat, and is too much weight. The 115 hp Johnson 2 stroke is kind of loud and uses a good bit of gas. Usually like to just ride around quite a bit at lower speeds and just thinking about 90 hp 4 stroke being under a load of 20 foot boat and people in boat. I am thinking about power of 2 stroke compared to 4 stroke with less hp. I think I am over thinking this." +How do you remove the yoke at the end of the tilt rod or shaft . Need to replace o-rings on the trim and tilt pump,There should be four holes on the end cap. There is a special tool that is used to unscrew the cap.,There should be four holes on the end cap. There is a special tool that is used to unscrew the cap.,"To do it all the ""right"" way. Use only marine grade wire for your connections (do not solder). + +The mahogany will look great as a transom and that can be sealed with varnish (about 4 coats). + +Kudo's on your desire to find an older craft from the 30's to 40's but I think a replica may be easier to handle. You are correct in calling an older boat a ""real project""" +How do you remove the yoke at the end of the tilt rod or shaft . Need to replace o-rings on the trim and tilt pump,I got the end cap off hoping not disassemble the unit . The end cap o- rings were leaking .,I got the end cap off hoping not disassemble the unit . The end cap o- rings were leaking .,"boscoe said: + + + + Yes, there are four wires in the harness to the remote oil tank. One pair for the electric oil pump ground. The other pair for the sensor switch ground. + +The ground for the pump is apparently good since you say that when you apply that ground the pump runs. What is unknown is if the other ground for the sensor switch is reaching the CDI. + +The sensor switch is there to prevent the remote tank from running completely out of oil without the user knowing it. With sufficient oil in the tank the switch will be closed. Ground applied to the CDI. CDI will command automatic transfer of oil. Up until the point that the float switch drops to a low oil level. The switch then opens. No more ground to the CDI. Auto transfer function is terminated. When the main tank gets low (because no more auto transfer of oil) the alarm sounds. Assume there is no spare oil in the boat. The user can now force the pump to run pumping what oil remains in the remote tank to the main tank. He best start heading for home. + +Click to expand... + + +Ok thank you I understand now. So if I disconnect the four pin connector at the remote tank on the boat Not the engine tank. Two of the wires should have continuity to ground, correct? One for pump and one for level switch" +leaking oil from the leg. Looking for some answer...,"Engine oil or Gear Oil? + +What engine do you have?","Engine oil or Gear Oil? + +What engine do you have?","im trying to convince them its possible DIY. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... It'll take a very talented Diy'er, who's Very well equipped with the various Tools it takes for such a repair,.... + +Looks like the hull needs to be separated, the top fixed, 'n then put back together, painted, 'n decaled,...." +leaking oil from the leg. Looking for some answer...,"If it is leaking down the driveshaft (drop the lower unit to check) you may have Yamaha's free 'oil seal eats drive shaft' feature. Nothing a powerhead removal, speedy sleeve and new seal won't fix.","If it is leaking down the driveshaft (drop the lower unit to check) you may have Yamaha's free 'oil seal eats drive shaft' feature. Nothing a powerhead removal, speedy sleeve and new seal won't fix.",The red lever should be closed. The lever is so you can start the engine in an emergency if the battery was dead with a pull rope. +"My 115 1988 BETO V4 2stroke stalls under hard acceleration. + +When you are just slowly idling forward then accelerate hard the engine will stall +Or When you are just idling forward with a wakeboarder you cant get them out of the water no matter how slow you try to get them up it will stall before you clear 5knots. + +But if you don't have a wakeboarder you can cruse unto speed no worries and the boat performs fine even with a very full boat. + +I have just had the carbs striped and cleaned out new fuel filter & spark plugs & the fuel pump rebuilt. + +Could this still be carb related? + +Cheers","More history is needed on your rig. Is this engine new to you? First time out? Is this a new issue? Was fuel tank cleaned, New fuel mixed with old? Are you using proper mix of oil and gas? Were the carbs. linked and synced? Was she sitting for a length of time?","More history is needed on your rig. Is this engine new to you? First time out? Is this a new issue? Was fuel tank cleaned, New fuel mixed with old? Are you using proper mix of oil and gas? Were the carbs. linked and synced? Was she sitting for a length of time?","Re: No motor turn over + +I think I figured out my starting problem but thanks to those that viewed my post I had a bad starter" +"My 115 1988 BETO V4 2stroke stalls under hard acceleration. + +When you are just slowly idling forward then accelerate hard the engine will stall +Or When you are just idling forward with a wakeboarder you cant get them out of the water no matter how slow you try to get them up it will stall before you clear 5knots. + +But if you don't have a wakeboarder you can cruse unto speed no worries and the boat performs fine even with a very full boat. + +I have just had the carbs striped and cleaned out new fuel filter & spark plugs & the fuel pump rebuilt. + +Could this still be carb related? + +Cheers","Sorry I have owned the boat for two years now it has never had any issues. +It hasn't been used for 3months then I got the carbs cleaned, fuel tank is clean with new fuel in it and the motor is oil injection.","Sorry I have owned the boat for two years now it has never had any issues. +It hasn't been used for 3months then I got the carbs cleaned, fuel tank is clean with new fuel in it and the motor is oil injection.","Pictures must be under 1 MB. + +Both Jamestown Distributors and West Marine have videos on transom repair/replace, if my memory is still good." +"My 115 1988 BETO V4 2stroke stalls under hard acceleration. + +When you are just slowly idling forward then accelerate hard the engine will stall +Or When you are just idling forward with a wakeboarder you cant get them out of the water no matter how slow you try to get them up it will stall before you clear 5knots. + +But if you don't have a wakeboarder you can cruse unto speed no worries and the boat performs fine even with a very full boat. + +I have just had the carbs striped and cleaned out new fuel filter & spark plugs & the fuel pump rebuilt. + +Could this still be carb related? + +Cheers","Try pumping primer bulb while accelerating, If condition improves you have a fuel restriction or a fuel pump issue","Try pumping primer bulb while accelerating, If condition improves you have a fuel restriction or a fuel pump issue",I’m in South Africa. Thanks for the answer. +"I have an ""02"" 60 HP Yammy 4 stk. It runs great, but it's hard to start. I've had the carbs rebuilt & it runs as smooth as can be. However about the only way to start it is to put it in neutral & give it a little throttle ( just enough to feel the cable ""tighten up"" it will start every time! If I run it for just a little while "" enough to get the motor warm & shut it off, it will start almost instantly. Let it cool off for 10 or 15 minutes-- won't start unless I give a little throttle in neutral-walla instant start. I've put additive in the gas, complete new gas line & water separater. It's a 4stk T 60 very low hours. What can I do next??",Maybe adjust the cable/idle up a little. It may have stretched a tad and you need to take up the slack. However I'm not an expert but that's my 2 bobs worth. Clem.,Maybe adjust the cable/idle up a little. It may have stretched a tad and you need to take up the slack. However I'm not an expert but that's my 2 bobs worth. Clem.,Check lower unit oil.---------Did you fill oil from the bottom till it came out the top ? +"I have an ""02"" 60 HP Yammy 4 stk. It runs great, but it's hard to start. I've had the carbs rebuilt & it runs as smooth as can be. However about the only way to start it is to put it in neutral & give it a little throttle ( just enough to feel the cable ""tighten up"" it will start every time! If I run it for just a little while "" enough to get the motor warm & shut it off, it will start almost instantly. Let it cool off for 10 or 15 minutes-- won't start unless I give a little throttle in neutral-walla instant start. I've put additive in the gas, complete new gas line & water separater. It's a 4stk T 60 very low hours. What can I do next??",Does that outboard have a choke or an enrichment solenoid and are you using it,Does that outboard have a choke or an enrichment solenoid and are you using it,go look at your first post....one post in one area makes it easier on all of us... +"I have an ""02"" 60 HP Yammy 4 stk. It runs great, but it's hard to start. I've had the carbs rebuilt & it runs as smooth as can be. However about the only way to start it is to put it in neutral & give it a little throttle ( just enough to feel the cable ""tighten up"" it will start every time! If I run it for just a little while "" enough to get the motor warm & shut it off, it will start almost instantly. Let it cool off for 10 or 15 minutes-- won't start unless I give a little throttle in neutral-walla instant start. I've put additive in the gas, complete new gas line & water separater. It's a 4stk T 60 very low hours. What can I do next??","Cables do not stretch. + +If the carbs are your problem..... + +This carb set up has auto primers for the start up so there is no choke to activate. + +My experience is that sometimes these carbs are impossible to get clean if fouled. I have left theses carbs in an ultrasonic cleaner cooking for 48 hrs and they just were not right. + +When they get like that I replace them. If the primers are bad, they are almost the cost of the complete carb. + +Sorry, Not what you want to hear.","Cables do not stretch. + +If the carbs are your problem..... + +This carb set up has auto primers for the start up so there is no choke to activate. + +My experience is that sometimes these carbs are impossible to get clean if fouled. I have left theses carbs in an ultrasonic cleaner cooking for 48 hrs and they just were not right. + +When they get like that I replace them. If the primers are bad, they are almost the cost of the complete carb. + +Sorry, Not what you want to hear.",It's dumping fuel out the main jet on the bottom carb...dont know what to try next... +"I have an ""02"" 60 HP Yammy 4 stk. It runs great, but it's hard to start. I've had the carbs rebuilt & it runs as smooth as can be. However about the only way to start it is to put it in neutral & give it a little throttle ( just enough to feel the cable ""tighten up"" it will start every time! If I run it for just a little while "" enough to get the motor warm & shut it off, it will start almost instantly. Let it cool off for 10 or 15 minutes-- won't start unless I give a little throttle in neutral-walla instant start. I've put additive in the gas, complete new gas line & water separater. It's a 4stk T 60 very low hours. What can I do next??","Old Clem said: + + + + Maybe adjust the cable/idle up a little. It may have stretched a tad and you need to take up the slack. However I'm not an expert but that's my 2 bobs worth. Clem. + +Click to expand... + + + +Already readjusted the throttle cable,made no difference.","Old Clem said: + + + + Maybe adjust the cable/idle up a little. It may have stretched a tad and you need to take up the slack. However I'm not an expert but that's my 2 bobs worth. Clem. + +Click to expand... + + + +Already readjusted the throttle cable,made no difference.",good tip thanks +"I have an ""02"" 60 HP Yammy 4 stk. It runs great, but it's hard to start. I've had the carbs rebuilt & it runs as smooth as can be. However about the only way to start it is to put it in neutral & give it a little throttle ( just enough to feel the cable ""tighten up"" it will start every time! If I run it for just a little while "" enough to get the motor warm & shut it off, it will start almost instantly. Let it cool off for 10 or 15 minutes-- won't start unless I give a little throttle in neutral-walla instant start. I've put additive in the gas, complete new gas line & water separater. It's a 4stk T 60 very low hours. What can I do next??","Not familiar with enrichment solenoid. Is that the thing that hooks up to the carb linkage with an adjustable rod that mounts in front of the carbs? I've not messed with it yet. It looks like the rod going to the carb linkage has an adjustment on it. I thought maybe I could get a few more RPMs. When it starts it will idle at 400 to 500 RPM & die. When I start it after running a while- shut it off & start it right away ( which it always starts & idles around 900 RPMs) Did I mention that once started it runs absolutely great. Gets good gas mileage too. How could the carbs be bad when it runs this good ? I adjusted the idle up once & it went right back to 400 RPM, but that was before I adjusted the throttle cable. Thanks guys for any help. troutmaned","Not familiar with enrichment solenoid. Is that the thing that hooks up to the carb linkage with an adjustable rod that mounts in front of the carbs? I've not messed with it yet. It looks like the rod going to the carb linkage has an adjustment on it. I thought maybe I could get a few more RPMs. When it starts it will idle at 400 to 500 RPM & die. When I start it after running a while- shut it off & start it right away ( which it always starts & idles around 900 RPMs) Did I mention that once started it runs absolutely great. Gets good gas mileage too. How could the carbs be bad when it runs this good ? I adjusted the idle up once & it went right back to 400 RPM, but that was before I adjusted the throttle cable. Thanks guys for any help. troutmaned","Yes on the return line. + +The filter in the VST is 2 micron. Unless you install a 2 micron Racor the filter is doing nothing to stop the white powder. If the filter mount is deteriorating it doesn't matter what size filter you install. If the tank is corroding it may be time to replace it. Is the fuel tank aluminum?" +"I have an ""02"" 60 HP Yammy 4 stk. It runs great, but it's hard to start. I've had the carbs rebuilt & it runs as smooth as can be. However about the only way to start it is to put it in neutral & give it a little throttle ( just enough to feel the cable ""tighten up"" it will start every time! If I run it for just a little while "" enough to get the motor warm & shut it off, it will start almost instantly. Let it cool off for 10 or 15 minutes-- won't start unless I give a little throttle in neutral-walla instant start. I've put additive in the gas, complete new gas line & water separater. It's a 4stk T 60 very low hours. What can I do next??","Try some seafoam in fuel tank, As chris said in thread #4,they don't clean up very well, Pull one carb. off and take a look inside.","Try some seafoam in fuel tank, As chris said in thread #4,they don't clean up very well, Pull one carb. off and take a look inside.","racerone said: + + + + The heads are warped ! ----Guaranteed.------They all warp with time.-----It is the nature of aluminum castings used in outboard motors. + +Click to expand... + + +So, if they are warped, it will not do any good to just replace the head gaskets. I am guessing the heads can be milled, how much can you take off of them? I could just let it be since it is not causing any issues...?" +"I have a Yamaha f 250 ,How often does changing fuel water separator and fuel filter cause a fuel injector to get parcially plugged up ? + If it is one in a million ,maybe that's what happened to my motor .",So what actually happened to your motor.----------Your post is not clear.,So what actually happened to your motor.----------Your post is not clear.,"Firemedic0822 said: + + + + They have never been cleaned. + +Click to expand... + + +You cleaned the fuel tank and have new filters and fuel.....You should have had the injectors cleaned also. Have them done. + +Did you adjust any screws on the throttle plates besides the base idle screw? + +Your TPS voltage should be around .7 volts" +"I have a Yamaha f 250 ,How often does changing fuel water separator and fuel filter cause a fuel injector to get parcially plugged up ? + If it is one in a million ,maybe that's what happened to my motor .","the motor ran very smooth until I took it to a shop , I got new spark plugs ,impeller ,New fuel/water separator .Now the motor runs ruff. I am wondering if somehow a piece of dirt some how got into a fuel injector and clogged it enough to make the motor ruff .... Did anybody ever replace a fuel filter and then the engine runs ruff ?","the motor ran very smooth until I took it to a shop , I got new spark plugs ,impeller ,New fuel/water separator .Now the motor runs ruff. I am wondering if somehow a piece of dirt some how got into a fuel injector and clogged it enough to make the motor ruff .... Did anybody ever replace a fuel filter and then the engine runs ruff ?",if the tell tale stream is sometimes strong and the alarm goes off when it is not then the telltale is not your problem...you got an obstruction or something floating around in the cooling system it self.. as it is sooner or later you are going to lose a piston...i would do as Kom suggested...the alarm is telling you that you have a problem and its not one that will just go away... good luck... +"I have a Yamaha f 250 ,How often does changing fuel water separator and fuel filter cause a fuel injector to get parcially plugged up ? + If it is one in a million ,maybe that's what happened to my motor .","IT's quite possible a speck of dirt could get in an injector if filter area was not cleaned before filter was changed out,or a piece of degraded fuel hose, Iv'e always used brake clean first before disconnecting lines as a precaution","IT's quite possible a speck of dirt could get in an injector if filter area was not cleaned before filter was changed out,or a piece of degraded fuel hose, Iv'e always used brake clean first before disconnecting lines as a precaution",Half way up the dip stick is where the oil level should be. Many were over filling the motor so Yamaha changed the specifications. +"I have a Yamaha f 250 ,How often does changing fuel water separator and fuel filter cause a fuel injector to get parcially plugged up ? + If it is one in a million ,maybe that's what happened to my motor .","piron said: + + + + the motor ran very smooth until I took it to a shop , I got new spark plugs ,impeller ,New fuel/water separator .Now the motor runs ruff. I am wondering if somehow a piece of dirt some how got into a fuel injector and clogged it enough to make the motor ruff .... Did anybody ever replace a fuel filter and then the engine runs ruff ? + +Click to expand... + + + +Highly unlikely, after a simple service for dirt to make it to the injector. + +My guess, the guy who changed the spark plugs either did not gap them or dropped one while he was changing them. Possibly crossed a coil plug or left one unplugged or loose.","piron said: + + + + the motor ran very smooth until I took it to a shop , I got new spark plugs ,impeller ,New fuel/water separator .Now the motor runs ruff. I am wondering if somehow a piece of dirt some how got into a fuel injector and clogged it enough to make the motor ruff .... Did anybody ever replace a fuel filter and then the engine runs ruff ? + +Click to expand... + + + +Highly unlikely, after a simple service for dirt to make it to the injector. + +My guess, the guy who changed the spark plugs either did not gap them or dropped one while he was changing them. Possibly crossed a coil plug or left one unplugged or loose.",Track down the click. It is probably the trim relays. It is likely that you have either lost the earth to the trim motor or lost the +ve feed to the relays. You can see where the wires come up through the lower engine casing and follow them to the relays. There may be a fuse between the relays and the main feed off the starter solenoid but I can't remember for sure how this is set up. If you have a voltmeter there area few quick tests to prove what is happening. +"I have a Yamaha f 250 ,How often does changing fuel water separator and fuel filter cause a fuel injector to get parcially plugged up ? + If it is one in a million ,maybe that's what happened to my motor .",Possibly the fuel filter canister on motor is not seated correctly and is sucking air. Always change o ring when changing filter,Possibly the fuel filter canister on motor is not seated correctly and is sucking air. Always change o ring when changing filter,Not from a service manual. From a Yamaha rigging guide. +"I have a 2000 40c and Im having an issue with water in the fuel. I changed the filters and it is acting like classic water issues. I do not have a fuel/water separator. I remember reading that you must not slap any FWS on a small outboard but I cant seem to find a FWS specifically for small motoers. Any recommendations to buy would be appreciated. FYI I run high test No Ethanol only and the motor does not have a mixing system, I carefully mix with a measured fuel mix. Thanksgivings","If you are running a portable fuel tank has it been dumped,cleaned and flushed? Was there water in the filters? Has the carb bowl been drained and inspected for water?","If you are running a portable fuel tank has it been dumped,cleaned and flushed? Was there water in the filters? Has the carb bowl been drained and inspected for water?","starter valve is crap + +no the carb i think is like 250 + +but you guys with the 9.9, all you need to do is pump the throttle 2 times, it has an accelerator pump!" +"Hi guys im new to the forum and to owning a boat +ive bought a micro 501 came with a seagull and a yamaha 20 hp +after a bit of fafing about i got the engine started it runs sweet +and pumps water well my only problem is it wont stay in reverse +and wont select foward gear a bit of research leads mt to the +clutch dog which i have removed and sure enough it is badly worn +but im struggleing to find a new one and a gasket set to put back together +i can find lower gearbox complete but am weary as it might be the same +condition as mine +the engine is a 20 a 653-l30293 z +any help would be much appreciated","Google ""Sim Yamaha"" online and see if they have (or can order) the specific part you need. Sim Yamaha are great people in my book.","Google ""Sim Yamaha"" online and see if they have (or can order) the specific part you need. Sim Yamaha are great people in my book.","HI…I am using Norchill coolers from last many years. I would like to suggest you for the same. Norchill insulated soft sided cooler bag and chest are best and largely sold product. It gives a large choice to select the best for you from different available size and colors. I like to use and recommend others because of its DualTemp Liners which are specially designed to outlive your activities. It consist of a 100% A grade polyethylene external skin with a non staining, non odor absorbing, impact resistant food grade internal liner. It is perfect for anything you want to keep hot, cold, dry, or undamaged. It is: Puncture resistant, Leak proof, fully insulated, Bags Soft and foldable, Cheap and affordable price with best quality. I would also like to share its link with you who will be helpful to you to choose the best: http://www.norchillcoolers.com/ Norchill coolers also deal in Cooler Bag and Cool Bags" +"Hi guys im new to the forum and to owning a boat +ive bought a micro 501 came with a seagull and a yamaha 20 hp +after a bit of fafing about i got the engine started it runs sweet +and pumps water well my only problem is it wont stay in reverse +and wont select foward gear a bit of research leads mt to the +clutch dog which i have removed and sure enough it is badly worn +but im struggleing to find a new one and a gasket set to put back together +i can find lower gearbox complete but am weary as it might be the same +condition as mine +the engine is a 20 a 653-l30293 z +any help would be much appreciated",do you know what year the model is? You can find a full technical diagram here: http://oemparts.partspak.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_outboard/parts,do you know what year the model is? You can find a full technical diagram here: http://oemparts.partspak.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_outboard/parts,"Take the fuel hose going into the bottom carburettor and put it in a jar then crank the motor with the ignition off (kill switch out). If fuel comes out the fuel hose then it is definitely your carburettor needle valve. If nothing comes out it is probably your fuel pump given you have replaced the lines. I have had lines that were new, but had been lying around the workshop for a while and insects had made nests in them. Just because they have never been used doesn't mean they aren't blocked! + +Stuart" +"Most of the model number is missing so I hope what I have is enough. It is a 4 cycle and has the Solenoid on the top of the Carb. Does that work as the Choke, and if I put voltage to it out of the Carb should the rod move? If you put your hand over the horn it will start and run as long as you keep it partially choked until the engine warms up then it is fine. I see the solenoid is expensive and want to be sure before I order one. This is the part number and description [h=1]6G8-1410A-01-00 STARTER SET.[/h] +Thanks everyone","That solenoid is used to release more fuel upon warm up and once the element inside the solenoid is warmed up it will close the extra fuel being sent to the carb. It does not turn the choke valve on the carb. You can check to make sure the solenoid is working properly by checking the resistance. Hook up a Multi Meter to the two wire leads and you should get 4.8 to 7.2 Ohms at 20 degree Celsius or 68 degrees F. You can also put 12 volts to the solenoid and after a couple of minutes you should see that metal needle move. The metal needle in shutting off the extra fuel that is needed when the engine is cold. +http://www.partspak.com/productcart...01-00-Starter-Set-6G81410A0100-2943p38307.htm +JON","That solenoid is used to release more fuel upon warm up and once the element inside the solenoid is warmed up it will close the extra fuel being sent to the carb. It does not turn the choke valve on the carb. You can check to make sure the solenoid is working properly by checking the resistance. Hook up a Multi Meter to the two wire leads and you should get 4.8 to 7.2 Ohms at 20 degree Celsius or 68 degrees F. You can also put 12 volts to the solenoid and after a couple of minutes you should see that metal needle move. The metal needle in shutting off the extra fuel that is needed when the engine is cold. +http://www.partspak.com/productcart...01-00-Starter-Set-6G81410A0100-2943p38307.htm +JON","By loom are you referring to the rigging tube? If so, what you are seeing is not unheard of. Bleach and other chemicals can get into the rigging tube. With no way to drain out over time the degrade the rubber and other materials used to cover throttle/shift cables, battery cables, fuel hoses and whatnot." +"I have to replace a 703 control box. I found a new one but it is missing a key. I have the existing key from the old damaged box. Does anyone know if the keys are interchangeable? I also have the old throttle and shift cables. The new box does not have them. Is it difficult to install these on a new control box. + +Thank you, +Eric Richardson","Hi, Eric +If you locate the three digit code on the ignition switch barrel you can take that number and plug it into Partspak.com and it will give you the part number to order. For example I typed in ""Yamaha key 752"" into the search and it brought up this listing for the 752 key. +http://www.partspak.com/productcart...sultCnt=10&keyword=yamaha+key+752&submit=GO%2. + +Jon Goldberg","Hi, Eric +If you locate the three digit code on the ignition switch barrel you can take that number and plug it into Partspak.com and it will give you the part number to order. For example I typed in ""Yamaha key 752"" into the search and it brought up this listing for the 752 key. +http://www.partspak.com/productcart...sultCnt=10&keyword=yamaha+key+752&submit=GO%2. + +Jon Goldberg","Thank you for your help so far! +I have one more question. Is it possible that the top two of the 3 carburetors need a #140 main jet and the bottom carburetor needs a #145? Because that's what the description I was able to get says. Because I need to replace the main jets because they were in a very bad condition. +I only found a description in the link below. + +https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...97_Z9_11.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1kpQmSp5T2twgLqHDHWYED" +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help","no.....sparkplug wire not installed correctly/damaged, wrong plugs installed.....gapped wrong. NOT normal !","no.....sparkplug wire not installed correctly/damaged, wrong plugs installed.....gapped wrong. NOT normal !",Has the autolube been disconnected? +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help",I installed brand new plugs after mechanic did .The numbers are correct .NGK 3672 LFR6A-11 .,I installed brand new plugs after mechanic did .The numbers are correct .NGK 3672 LFR6A-11 .,"I have the same problem with a Mercury, the cable is clearly stuck in the tilt tube. Do I hear that hammer and heat are the cure? Will mushrooming the end make it worse?" +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help",Are the wires going to the correct plugs? Do a cylinder drop test just pull a plug wire and put it back on while the engine is idleing the engine should respond the same on each wire. A good pair of insulated channellocks will keep you from getting bit. That will tell you what cylinder/s are not firing.,Are the wires going to the correct plugs? Do a cylinder drop test just pull a plug wire and put it back on while the engine is idleing the engine should respond the same on each wire. A good pair of insulated channellocks will keep you from getting bit. That will tell you what cylinder/s are not firing.,"boscoe said: + + + + I for one do not lament the loss of points, plugs and condenser. + +Click to expand... + + Many small planes use mags only. Obvious reliability issues." +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help",That engine has the coils that fit directly onto the spark plugs you probably just have a couple connectors on the wrong coils or a bad connection somewhere. Sounds like you need a new mechanic other than preventive maintenance you likely will need a scanner to determine the next course of action.,That engine has the coils that fit directly onto the spark plugs you probably just have a couple connectors on the wrong coils or a bad connection somewhere. Sounds like you need a new mechanic other than preventive maintenance you likely will need a scanner to determine the next course of action.,No....just run it with some treated fuel to flush system then run carb dry... +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help","the f 250 has a 1 inch by 3 inch rubber sleeve that that slides over each spark plug....I will try your drop test. How could I have a couple connection on the wrong coils ? the mechanic accidently switched something? I do not think he had any reason to take wires off. I had M.E.D.S. printed ot for me. (sytem info, faults,history, etc. ) Is a meds report the same thing a scan test ? kimcrwb1 You are definitely right about 2 things .I need a new mechanic and if it aint broke don't fix it.thanks","the f 250 has a 1 inch by 3 inch rubber sleeve that that slides over each spark plug....I will try your drop test. How could I have a couple connection on the wrong coils ? the mechanic accidently switched something? I do not think he had any reason to take wires off. I had M.E.D.S. printed ot for me. (sytem info, faults,history, etc. ) Is a meds report the same thing a scan test ? kimcrwb1 You are definitely right about 2 things .I need a new mechanic and if it aint broke don't fix it.thanks",?----What exactly is broken.-----The shift rod screws out of the lower unit.------You have removed the pivot pin ?----You have removed the driveshaft ?----Any pictures of the broken shift rod ? +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help","I assume the service included greasing the prop shaft. Is it running out now? Do you feel the vibration when in neutral/idle. Raise the RPMs to 800? If so, check the prop for damage and the shaft for run out. who knows how how he removed the prop.","I assume the service included greasing the prop shaft. Is it running out now? Do you feel the vibration when in neutral/idle. Raise the RPMs to 800? If so, check the prop for damage and the shaft for run out. who knows how how he removed the prop.",Im not sure what the varnish is. I never use fuel additives until the last trip to winterize the fuel. Another thought i had is are you sure the plugs wires/coils are back in the right order. And try spraying some starter fluid or flammable brake clean in it and see if its starts for a second. That will really narrow down the places you need to look +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help","Mechanic said he greased everthing,so I presume he did. + + I don't under stand your question .. Is GREASE running out now? not really.. + + I think it viberates a little in neutral . + + When you say check the shaft for runout does mean check it for a bend ?","Mechanic said he greased everthing,so I presume he did. + + I don't under stand your question .. Is GREASE running out now? not really.. + + I think it viberates a little in neutral . + + When you say check the shaft for runout does mean check it for a bend ?","LOL !!! Well , im starting to think its water in my gas that probably formed a bit of gel in the carb ! My fault is definitly NOT heat related !!! I took it out just now for one last test before throwing cash around , and came to the conclusion that it's carb related !!! It did the ruff idle again and I simply throttled down and back up very very slowly and bingo it goes again !!! So I added a bit of StaBill in the tank , but worst case scenario , Ill just clean the carb again !!! But I will defenitly add a can of seafoam !!! I will keep updating my progress when I confirm 100 % !!! And maybe next summer I'll invest in the carb to boost it up to a 15 hp !!! I dont know why they bothered on Under carbing such a nice motor , The upgraded carb is 380 $ , Maybe strap a Holly double pumper on the thing !!! And it definatly is a Yamaha motor !!! In amazon type f15 coil !!! Yamaha , Parsun comes up !!! Same Same thing !!! And super gas from now on !!!" +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help","A part of the service is to remove the prop, inspect it for cracks, see if the main bearing housing is sound and without foreign material. Before he puts the prop back on he will coat the shaft with a material (grease confused you) that will prevent the prop hub from seizing on the shaft. If he found your hub seized when he started, he may have been aggressive. +Runout is a term I used describing a bent shaft. If it is bent then you have a bigger problem. + +I hope you find your problem.","A part of the service is to remove the prop, inspect it for cracks, see if the main bearing housing is sound and without foreign material. Before he puts the prop back on he will coat the shaft with a material (grease confused you) that will prevent the prop hub from seizing on the shaft. If he found your hub seized when he started, he may have been aggressive. +Runout is a term I used describing a bent shaft. If it is bent then you have a bigger problem. + +I hope you find your problem.","Personally, I'd use an ACR (auto charging relay) in place of the isolator.....best results occur if both batteries are of the same type ..... + +You can get the schematic from whoever made the part you choose - if they don't offer one, I'd buy another brand... + +And use the proper material to add to the wiring as needed....you wont be sorry to spend money in that depeartment..." +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help",The vibration could be a bent prop it is allways a good idea to put a identifying mark on the prop only you know about before you turn it into a shop. Some of those guys can be real crooked especially your marina mechanics. It just sounds like something shady going on there. If it was running good it should still be running good 100 hrs the engine is still a baby.,The vibration could be a bent prop it is allways a good idea to put a identifying mark on the prop only you know about before you turn it into a shop. Some of those guys can be real crooked especially your marina mechanics. It just sounds like something shady going on there. If it was running good it should still be running good 100 hrs the engine is still a baby.,"Chawk, you are the man!! You were 100% on the money. The problem was indeed hard to find since a loose contact in one of the regulator wires was the problem. The thing was that the screw was tight, but the connection was loose and since the screw had plastic over it to avoid grounding that wire, it didn't make contact with the regulator. +Thanks a bunch for a problem that was killing me. Al ground contacts are now nice and clean and the alternator puts out an even 14.2 volts at first, slowly dropping to 13.9 after an hour or so. +Peter" +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help","Everything is pointing towards bad or wrong connections on coils or plugs,ohm out each one. You mentioned new plugs installed,were they gapped precisely ,wires replaced with an audible snap on plugs, Recheck firing order again. Check area around plug wires,other connectors disturbed, When cowl was taken off and replaced anything askew. piron,you mentioned fuel filter was changed, Is it possible some crud got past filter into carbs? Was fuel/water separator dumped,contents inspected ,refilled, and reinstalled. Thread says 600 hrs title on post says 100hrs for all following","Everything is pointing towards bad or wrong connections on coils or plugs,ohm out each one. You mentioned new plugs installed,were they gapped precisely ,wires replaced with an audible snap on plugs, Recheck firing order again. Check area around plug wires,other connectors disturbed, When cowl was taken off and replaced anything askew. piron,you mentioned fuel filter was changed, Is it possible some crud got past filter into carbs? Was fuel/water separator dumped,contents inspected ,refilled, and reinstalled. Thread says 600 hrs title on post says 100hrs for all following","I'd go with awlgrip....plenty of prep documentation on the www, too..." +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help","justme .thanks ,,I understand ,,,no grease is leaking or running out of motor + +kimcrw .... I understand ...thanks","justme .thanks ,,I understand ,,,no grease is leaking or running out of motor + +kimcrw .... I understand ...thanks","ClassicAQ said: + + + + The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb. + +With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets? + +By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html + +Click to expand... + +thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again" +"Yamaha F 250 btxr 600 hours ,,, new spark plugs , cooling impeller, oil and gas filter ,and zinc anode above propeller .Also clean and detail .. My engine ran smooth . Now after that work ,when I drive at idle speed 800 rpm the boat viberates .I feel vibrations in steering wheel,floor, and t-top. The shaking is most noticeable between 3400 rpm to 4000 rpm .Except for the shaking the engine run good . The stupid mechanic says its normal. Please help","johnnygjr ...I will ohm out each coil ... mechanic said plugs were factory set . he is wrong ...........mechanic installed new after market fuel/water separator. + +my year 2008 motor has 612 hours ...The shop said I am paying for "" 100 hour service'' thanks for helping me","johnnygjr ...I will ohm out each coil ... mechanic said plugs were factory set . he is wrong ...........mechanic installed new after market fuel/water separator. + +my year 2008 motor has 612 hours ...The shop said I am paying for "" 100 hour service'' thanks for helping me","Brakes lights/blinkers work Can’t get tail-lights to come on + +I have a 07 trailblazer it has a 7 pin round trailer plug I have the male end at the trailer. + +I’ve managed to get the brake lights and blinkers working however the tails won’t come on. +I have checked all fuses under the hood and under the rear seat all have continunity. + +I inspected the wiring under the car and they appear fine I don’t want to rip the carpeting and rear seat out to trace a wire. + +Been informed that I can’t tap into the cars taillight wire because it would overload the circuit. + +I have wasted way to much time messing w/ the none tail light issue. + +I sometime trailer in the dark so it would be good to have sometype of red light back there. +All I can resort to w/ this car is battery operated taillights.unless anyone has usefull advice. +Thanks" +"I have a 03 yamaha 90 hp. took boat out this morning and it started and just quit all of a sudden. it will start right back up but keeps quitting. changed fuel filter and spark plugs, still does it. 2 weeks ago it ran fine. +we saw a hose that looks like it plugs into something but cant find any place it might go....it comes from the inside of the foot somewhere. i looked that upand someone said it was a speedometer hose?? +please help....we dont have money to dump into it right now :-(",Speedo hockup,Speedo hockup,"Many good sparkplugs are thrown away !!----------Not much goes wrong with the plugs.----------------I suggest you do a compression test.---------Then test that spark will jump a gap of 3/8"" or 1 cm with ease.-------------That will help you determine where the problems might be.---------------Trouble shooting does not cost $$ , it just saves you $$$" +"I have a 03 yamaha 90 hp. took boat out this morning and it started and just quit all of a sudden. it will start right back up but keeps quitting. changed fuel filter and spark plugs, still does it. 2 weeks ago it ran fine. +we saw a hose that looks like it plugs into something but cant find any place it might go....it comes from the inside of the foot somewhere. i looked that upand someone said it was a speedometer hose?? +please help....we dont have money to dump into it right now :-(",Speedometer hose and has nothing to do with the way the motor runs.-----Start with a compression test.-------That costs Zero money to do.,Speedometer hose and has nothing to do with the way the motor runs.-----Start with a compression test.-------That costs Zero money to do.,"I have the same engine and just use the plugs specified. Never had a problem with plugs. Plugs last forever these days and if they fail you have other issues causing them to fail in outboards given their use by recreational boaters. 100,000 miles on a car before plug problems show up? On a boat the plugs should last for years and years." +"I have a 03 yamaha 90 hp. took boat out this morning and it started and just quit all of a sudden. it will start right back up but keeps quitting. changed fuel filter and spark plugs, still does it. 2 weeks ago it ran fine. +we saw a hose that looks like it plugs into something but cant find any place it might go....it comes from the inside of the foot somewhere. i looked that upand someone said it was a speedometer hose?? +please help....we dont have money to dump into it right now :-(","Second, Try an open air gap spark test, fully charged battery with plugs out,minimum 200-300 rpms","Second, Try an open air gap spark test, fully charged battery with plugs out,minimum 200-300 rpms","boscoe said: + + + + Why do you feel the need for a regulator? The current output from your lighting coil is so low that 16.2 volts is not going to harm your battery. + +Or is the problem that 16.2 volts is causing your electronics to shut down? + +Almost any motorcycle permanent magnet generator rectifier/regulator should work. For instance + +https://www.google.com/search?q=mot...ILQ&biw=1396&bih=657#spd=12616426964993993863 + +https://www.ebay.com/p/6660123-SPI-01-154-16-Rectifier-Voltage-Regulator/1439885554?iid=312452681103 + +Click to expand... + + + +I am worried that I would damage my electronics. They have never shut down or acted strangely, but until now, I never realized the older engines have no voltage regulator. Electricity is my weakest area of understanding as to how too many volts would affect my more expensive(at least to me) electronics. If it won't affect it, then I won't do anything. These are my first yamahas, but also my newest motors in my boating/fishing career." +"I have a 03 yamaha 90 hp. took boat out this morning and it started and just quit all of a sudden. it will start right back up but keeps quitting. changed fuel filter and spark plugs, still does it. 2 weeks ago it ran fine. +we saw a hose that looks like it plugs into something but cant find any place it might go....it comes from the inside of the foot somewhere. i looked that upand someone said it was a speedometer hose?? +please help....we dont have money to dump into it right now :-(",My 90 hp had similar problem.changeing a 1 inch white plastic filter mounted on the back of the motor solved it. replaces a filter on the port side did not help,My 90 hp had similar problem.changeing a 1 inch white plastic filter mounted on the back of the motor solved it. replaces a filter on the port side did not help,"Chuck1234 said: + + + + Have the Yamaha service manual for my S130 TLRV. However, it is lacking in the carb rebuild section. Anyone know of a detailed manual for rebuilding 2 stroke V4 Yamaha carbs? + +Click to expand... + + + +All you'll need is the carb parts blow out diagram. This should be in your manual. You'll want to order a standard carb kit for your engines year/model, one kit for each carb. Unless the carb floats are damaged you won't need to replace (to test floats, submerge them in a cup of water..check for air leaks). + +Careful not to strip the head screws. Each screw has a specific driver intended to be used to loosen. The parts blow out points you to where all the jets are located. Each jet needs to be removed, soaked, then cleared of debris. You want to be able to see right through the orifice. Install new gaskets, screws, needle valves, etc. That's it." +"I have a 03 yamaha 90 hp. took boat out this morning and it started and just quit all of a sudden. it will start right back up but keeps quitting. changed fuel filter and spark plugs, still does it. 2 weeks ago it ran fine. +we saw a hose that looks like it plugs into something but cant find any place it might go....it comes from the inside of the foot somewhere. i looked that upand someone said it was a speedometer hose?? +please help....we dont have money to dump into it right now :-(","Has fuel/water separator been dumped into clear container,set overnight and examined for separation,contaminates. Is engine warmed up when this issue arises? How long was engine running when she shut off? What do plugs look like when she shuts off, black and sooty, wet,light tan,oil fouled,pure white?? Try pumping primer bulb to see if condition goes away,this would show a fuel restriction or a possible weak fuel pump. A little more history on engine might help us help you.","Has fuel/water separator been dumped into clear container,set overnight and examined for separation,contaminates. Is engine warmed up when this issue arises? How long was engine running when she shut off? What do plugs look like when she shuts off, black and sooty, wet,light tan,oil fouled,pure white?? Try pumping primer bulb to see if condition goes away,this would show a fuel restriction or a possible weak fuel pump. A little more history on engine might help us help you.",If you can find all the parts it can be done. Or else they make Solar Panel battery chargers for boats which is another option. +"Help, 1989 Yamaha 200HP Outboard 2-stroke carb engine theRPMs rollback intermittently. The engineidles and runs great for 30+ minutes before having an issue so I need sometroubleshooting/repair advice. +I’ll run 30-45 mins at high cruise RPMs in the 4000-4300range then suddenly the engine will rollback to 3000 RPMs with no throttle ortrim changes. Occasionally it surges and/orslows to 2000 RPM happen as I continue to run home &/or cycle the throttle,that’s the max RPM I can get. The engineappears to enter into a safe mode but I have no alarms for over temp or low oil. If I shut the engine off for a while, she’llstart & cruise again for short distances. Once the problem starts, it's stalled occasionally but usually it keeps running just at thatreduced RPM. + +I’ve checked & replaced the fuel filter and the water separatorplus I inspected the vent screen and verified the clean line. I only run ethanol free gas & addstabilizer with each fueling. I replacedthe primer ball and have checked all the fuel lines with no leaks or bad linesobserved. The spark plugs were new thisseason & all look good upon inspection. The console & engine linkages look good on both ends. Thewater pump seems fine and produces a solid stream but I’ve inspected the 2 x temperaturesensors (which are intact and look good) along with the thermostat. I top off the oil system before each trip butconsumption & reservoir appear normal/remain full on each trip. +Again, no alarms or additional engine lights beyond thegreen oil system. +Anyone fixed a problem like this? Thank you","It does sound like safe mode is kicking in, Try pumping primer bulb while issue comes up","It does sound like safe mode is kicking in, Try pumping primer bulb while issue comes up",Fuel pumps been checked? Poor fuel delivery to the carbs (assume it is carb'd?) could catch up at idle then drain the bowls again as you plane off. +"Help, 1989 Yamaha 200HP Outboard 2-stroke carb engine theRPMs rollback intermittently. The engineidles and runs great for 30+ minutes before having an issue so I need sometroubleshooting/repair advice. +I’ll run 30-45 mins at high cruise RPMs in the 4000-4300range then suddenly the engine will rollback to 3000 RPMs with no throttle ortrim changes. Occasionally it surges and/orslows to 2000 RPM happen as I continue to run home &/or cycle the throttle,that’s the max RPM I can get. The engineappears to enter into a safe mode but I have no alarms for over temp or low oil. If I shut the engine off for a while, she’llstart & cruise again for short distances. Once the problem starts, it's stalled occasionally but usually it keeps running just at thatreduced RPM. + +I’ve checked & replaced the fuel filter and the water separatorplus I inspected the vent screen and verified the clean line. I only run ethanol free gas & addstabilizer with each fueling. I replacedthe primer ball and have checked all the fuel lines with no leaks or bad linesobserved. The spark plugs were new thisseason & all look good upon inspection. The console & engine linkages look good on both ends. Thewater pump seems fine and produces a solid stream but I’ve inspected the 2 x temperaturesensors (which are intact and look good) along with the thermostat. I top off the oil system before each trip butconsumption & reservoir appear normal/remain full on each trip. +Again, no alarms or additional engine lights beyond thegreen oil system. +Anyone fixed a problem like this? Thank you","I have seen this before, If all alarm systems and the guardian system is working........ + +I would pull the carbs and look for some debris around the inlet side of the float needle seat. + +Take each needle valve and rotate it in the seat and make sure it does not bind. When this has happened in the past I have found debris on the inlet side of the needle seat. I have also found the needle it self bind in the seat if rotated in the correct position causing an intermittent loss of power as you described.","I have seen this before, If all alarm systems and the guardian system is working........ + +I would pull the carbs and look for some debris around the inlet side of the float needle seat. + +Take each needle valve and rotate it in the seat and make sure it does not bind. When this has happened in the past I have found debris on the inlet side of the needle seat. I have also found the needle it self bind in the seat if rotated in the correct position causing an intermittent loss of power as you described.","no, I havent had a chance to work with it yet, but I am going to give all of your suggestions to my brother and see if we cant get it fixed. Thank you guys so much for taking the time to try and help me, This forum is GREAT!!!" +"Greetings. + +New to me boat with a pair of F225 Yam 4 Strokes. One of them is sublime. The other, not so much. + +It has an intermittent ""no crank"" condition when the key is turned to start the engine. If you release and try it again, it may or may not work. The situation is getting worse. + +I am trying to determine if I have a switch problem at the helm, or a starter problem on the engine. + +The battery terminals are clean as a whistle. +The batteries are fully charged. +The connectors on the engine are spotless. +The other engine starts perfectly, so that ought to rule out the batts, however, I have two rotary battery selectors and I have NOT tried using them in any configuration other than BOTH and I have not pulled them to check for corrosion. + +I am considering swapping out the ignition switches at the helm, left to right and right to left to see if the problem follows. As of today, I have not tried this, and have no idea how difficult a process it is given all the circuitry involved at the gauges. + +I do have the factory manual, but I am on the wrong side of the country to use it. + +Any and all suggestions welcome and many thanks in advance.",Try jumper cables directly from battery to starter,Try jumper cables directly from battery to starter,"Ayuh,..... Is it full of oil,..??" +"Greetings. + +New to me boat with a pair of F225 Yam 4 Strokes. One of them is sublime. The other, not so much. + +It has an intermittent ""no crank"" condition when the key is turned to start the engine. If you release and try it again, it may or may not work. The situation is getting worse. + +I am trying to determine if I have a switch problem at the helm, or a starter problem on the engine. + +The battery terminals are clean as a whistle. +The batteries are fully charged. +The connectors on the engine are spotless. +The other engine starts perfectly, so that ought to rule out the batts, however, I have two rotary battery selectors and I have NOT tried using them in any configuration other than BOTH and I have not pulled them to check for corrosion. + +I am considering swapping out the ignition switches at the helm, left to right and right to left to see if the problem follows. As of today, I have not tried this, and have no idea how difficult a process it is given all the circuitry involved at the gauges. + +I do have the factory manual, but I am on the wrong side of the country to use it. + +Any and all suggestions welcome and many thanks in advance.","Is there a click at the engine when you turn the key but it doesn't try to start? If no click, I would try swapping the key switches as you have already thought of. If you are getting a click, my first check would be all the battery cable terminals for that engine including those at the switches. They can look perfect under the heatshrink but be horrible once the heat shrink is peeled back. You can follow a procedure to test for voltages that will lead you to the bad joint if there is one, but comment on the clicking first.","Is there a click at the engine when you turn the key but it doesn't try to start? If no click, I would try swapping the key switches as you have already thought of. If you are getting a click, my first check would be all the battery cable terminals for that engine including those at the switches. They can look perfect under the heatshrink but be horrible once the heat shrink is peeled back. You can follow a procedure to test for voltages that will lead you to the bad joint if there is one, but comment on the clicking first.","""Regarding painting of the und + +""Regarding painting of the undergear. I use Petit's two part Metal Primer. Put one coat on and let dry completely.....apply second thin coat and just when about dry...put on one coat of hard ablative bottom paint for shafts, gear, rudders, trim tabs adn thru hull fittings. Ain't gonna git none of dem barnaculs to stick on that for couple years!!!! GLuck""" +"Ok new problem now. +I just installed a Hummingbird Helix 7 unit. Wired it to my main bus. When I turn on my other GPS Unit the Helix goes dim nd erratic. +I was told that interference from other unit is causing it. Was told to wire it by itself. +So I wired it directly to the engine battery switch and ground. using the correct gage wire. +Now if with the Helix on and start the engine it blows the fuse .I had a 3amp fuse and also use da 5amp fuse ( didn't have another 3amp) and it blows . +How or why is voltage going to and blowing the fuse when I start the engine. +Help Please ; +Bob",never ever have your humming bird on while you start the engine. start the engine........then power up the hummingbird. (same advice that is in the owners manual),never ever have your humming bird on while you start the engine. start the engine........then power up the hummingbird. (same advice that is in the owners manual),"Simple test. If you can fill the main oil tank on the engine with the emergency switch, the problem is on the engine...... Possible float switch...." +"Ok new problem now. +I just installed a Hummingbird Helix 7 unit. Wired it to my main bus. When I turn on my other GPS Unit the Helix goes dim nd erratic. +I was told that interference from other unit is causing it. Was told to wire it by itself. +So I wired it directly to the engine battery switch and ground. using the correct gage wire. +Now if with the Helix on and start the engine it blows the fuse .I had a 3amp fuse and also use da 5amp fuse ( didn't have another 3amp) and it blows . +How or why is voltage going to and blowing the fuse when I start the engine. +Help Please ; +Bob",Never run lights and other accessories on the engine circuit. Do you have a fuse block and grounding bar under the dash. It just sounds like you need to upgrade the house wiring. Pull two heavy guage wires directly from the battery to the fuse block and grounding bar then you can fuse all the components individually and uprgade to 8 or 12 station fuse block for future appliances. If you upgrade to a accy circuit from he battery make sure it is fused at the battery as well.,Never run lights and other accessories on the engine circuit. Do you have a fuse block and grounding bar under the dash. It just sounds like you need to upgrade the house wiring. Pull two heavy guage wires directly from the battery to the fuse block and grounding bar then you can fuse all the components individually and uprgade to 8 or 12 station fuse block for future appliances. If you upgrade to a accy circuit from he battery make sure it is fused at the battery as well.,"Oil pressure good, cyl head temp good. And engine revs up and slows without touching a thing." +"Hi everyone I'm new to the forum and was hoping to get some help! I was told by the previous owner that my motor is a 1997 Yamaha saltwater series 250 ox66. The problem is the identification badge ,sticker ,label is gone from the outboard bracket. I'd like to confirm the year and the model when ordering parts ! . is their any other way to confirm the year/ model.? Any help would be very much appreciated","OX66 is the fuel injection 2stroke, the ECM should have a part number on it that you can call Yamaha dealers or search for a reference.","OX66 is the fuel injection 2stroke, the ECM should have a part number on it that you can call Yamaha dealers or search for a reference.",Glad to hear it. Could you post a picture of the part in question? +"Hi everyone I'm new to the forum and was hoping to get some help! I was told by the previous owner that my motor is a 1997 Yamaha saltwater series 250 ox66. The problem is the identification badge ,sticker ,label is gone from the outboard bracket. I'd like to confirm the year and the model when ordering parts ! . is their any other way to confirm the year/ model.? Any help would be very much appreciated","Qhn .thanks for taking the time to respond, where can I find the ECM on the engine ? Thanks","Qhn .thanks for taking the time to respond, where can I find the ECM on the engine ? Thanks",Well explained. Thanks for sharing. +where do u hook the hose to on the motor---I have Yamaha kit ---just cant find where to screw the metal fitting into the block--brand new engine--2015---help please,"Should be on the exhaust cover. Remove plug screw and install the nipple! + +Once stripped or crossed threads, retab and get a correct threaded nipple!","Should be on the exhaust cover. Remove plug screw and install the nipple! + +Once stripped or crossed threads, retab and get a correct threaded nipple!","replaced a small rubber collet that goes under a white plastic guide that the feed tube to the motor slides in. All is well +Thanks again rejesterd +Hard to believe that's all it was" +"Hi There + +We have the Yamaha F20BMH on our tender, we were in it the other day as normal, then whilst travelling it just slowed down, and started revving high, but not moving like it should. It seems the clutch is engaging because when you engage forward it moves forward, but very slow and when you give it some throttle it rev's like hell but doesn't go anywhere. Same as when trying to go in reverse, it just doesn't seem to have the power but it will move in reverse just slow. Like i say the engine is revving but not moving fast, any ideas what could be the problem? Is the clutch not engaging properly? + +Help would be very much appreciated.",Replace the prop !,Replace the prop !, +"Hi There + +We have the Yamaha F20BMH on our tender, we were in it the other day as normal, then whilst travelling it just slowed down, and started revving high, but not moving like it should. It seems the clutch is engaging because when you engage forward it moves forward, but very slow and when you give it some throttle it rev's like hell but doesn't go anywhere. Same as when trying to go in reverse, it just doesn't seem to have the power but it will move in reverse just slow. Like i say the engine is revving but not moving fast, any ideas what could be the problem? Is the clutch not engaging properly? + +Help would be very much appreciated.","Spun hub in prop,replace","Spun hub in prop,replace","The ACR's are on off switches, They sense voltage, They turn on when the voltage drops and off when it comes up. 35amp alts are enough. + +FYI.... Yamaha alternators will maintain a good battery bang, They are not designed to charge a dead battery. + +Tie all battery Negatives together, (Common ground)" +"Hi There + +We have the Yamaha F20BMH on our tender, we were in it the other day as normal, then whilst travelling it just slowed down, and started revving high, but not moving like it should. It seems the clutch is engaging because when you engage forward it moves forward, but very slow and when you give it some throttle it rev's like hell but doesn't go anywhere. Same as when trying to go in reverse, it just doesn't seem to have the power but it will move in reverse just slow. Like i say the engine is revving but not moving fast, any ideas what could be the problem? Is the clutch not engaging properly? + +Help would be very much appreciated.","Cheers guys, prop has been given to agent for replacement","Cheers guys, prop has been given to agent for replacement","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Depends on the part. Obviously parts for an '80 are obsolete, but some parts could be replaced by a superseded part. Also, some of your engine parts have a part number on it. If what you're needing to replace does, google search the part number for replacement. + +Click to expand... + + + thank you" +Tearing my hair out with this one. Oil is draining out of the overflow tube from the engine oil tank into the air silencer. This seems to happen with the key off and no +12 volts to the remote tank pump. Has anyone experienced any sort of siphoning issues with the engine mounted tank?,The engine mounted main tank should only fill to the upper line or just below it. Is yours filling past the line?,The engine mounted main tank should only fill to the upper line or just below it. Is yours filling past the line?,Where in Jersey are you located? +Tearing my hair out with this one. Oil is draining out of the overflow tube from the engine oil tank into the air silencer. This seems to happen with the key off and no +12 volts to the remote tank pump. Has anyone experienced any sort of siphoning issues with the engine mounted tank?,It's properly filling to the line. I tested the stop switch on the sensor and it works great. This seems to happen after I trailer the boat.,It's properly filling to the line. I tested the stop switch on the sensor and it works great. This seems to happen after I trailer the boat.,"Stop using starting fluid on your engine! + + +After you post what your engine is, 2 stroke or 4 stroke..... + +You need to verify a good ignition spark at cranking speed." +"After cleaning and testing and re-installing the injectors and doing the same to the O2 sensor assembly my 99 225 OX66 still powers down at 4400 rpm. Next suspect low pressure fuel pumps? +Has anyone else experienced this problem?","collapsed liner in fuel line/s. easy to check and replace. check all fuel lines, including ones in engine.","collapsed liner in fuel line/s. easy to check and replace. check all fuel lines, including ones in engine.","Just to summarize the outcome of this post, I disconnected each component from the electrical circuit as specified in the repair manual and measured its resistance. The only inconsistency I found was the coil resistance mentioned previously. So I decided I had done everything I could and placed an order for a new coil. After I did that, the engine started great. So the manual was correct, and I shouldn't have questioned it. Thanks also for the help and support provided Chawk and Jim Dixon." +"After cleaning and testing and re-installing the injectors and doing the same to the O2 sensor assembly my 99 225 OX66 still powers down at 4400 rpm. Next suspect low pressure fuel pumps? +Has anyone else experienced this problem?","When you say powers down at 4400, do you mean the engine will not rev. past that rpm. There many filters that should be checked on fuel injected engines,also a low pressure fuel pump and a high pressure pump with a screen. Has fuel/water separator been inspected? Get a fuel pressure tester from auto parts store,they might rent one out or loan you one with a deposit. Try pumping primer bulb while running when issue arises,if rpms pick up,fuel delivery issue or weak fuel pumps","When you say powers down at 4400, do you mean the engine will not rev. past that rpm. There many filters that should be checked on fuel injected engines,also a low pressure fuel pump and a high pressure pump with a screen. Has fuel/water separator been inspected? Get a fuel pressure tester from auto parts store,they might rent one out or loan you one with a deposit. Try pumping primer bulb while running when issue arises,if rpms pick up,fuel delivery issue or weak fuel pumps","Thanks bundee, thats something else to take a look at. When I took the carbs apart the small jet on the bottom of each carb was screwed right in, thats how they have been from new, is this correct. The engine is a bit rough when starts although when revved it clears although every time starting is a problem. I think I will blow carbs out with air and buy a Carbtune kit. Thanks a million and if you can think of anything else I would be grateful. +Cheers, Rob" +"PROLINE 2950 w/ twin Yamaha 250 , OX66 1998 starboard engine fluctuating and don't go over 2900 rpm on WOT, but in neutral it show up to 5000rpm, I did swap every possible parts from port engine, went to 2 different Yamaha dealers and they don't have any clue what to do and this is going for 7 weeks. +Please any advice appreciated.","Have you swapped out the entire fuel system (incl VST, LP pumps etc) and injectors? Sounds like a typical VST or LP pump issue at a first guess, but the Yamaha mechs should have been all over that first up. The other similar issue we had on an HPDI a few years back came back to a bad earth. There a bunch of small earth wires on the side of most Yamaha blocks. I would spend an hour undoing each one, cleaning them, and tightening them back up. Quick squirt of touch up paint afterwards to protect them again. Fuel is more likely, but the Yamaha mechs and presumably been all through that already. The other quick check would be to run it off a tote tank in case you have fuel delivery issues in the lines or tank.","Have you swapped out the entire fuel system (incl VST, LP pumps etc) and injectors? Sounds like a typical VST or LP pump issue at a first guess, but the Yamaha mechs should have been all over that first up. The other similar issue we had on an HPDI a few years back came back to a bad earth. There a bunch of small earth wires on the side of most Yamaha blocks. I would spend an hour undoing each one, cleaning them, and tightening them back up. Quick squirt of touch up paint afterwards to protect them again. Fuel is more likely, but the Yamaha mechs and presumably been all through that already. The other quick check would be to run it off a tote tank in case you have fuel delivery issues in the lines or tank.","check the fuel tank vent.also could be the fuel pump not pumping.pull it to bits if you can and check for any dirt,you should be able to blow thru it,but not suck back.must admit my 3cyl 30hp 1992 does similar things,seems to starve at full throttle.tried all sorts." +"PROLINE 2950 w/ twin Yamaha 250 , OX66 1998 starboard engine fluctuating and don't go over 2900 rpm on WOT, but in neutral it show up to 5000rpm, I did swap every possible parts from port engine, went to 2 different Yamaha dealers and they don't have any clue what to do and this is going for 7 weeks. +Please any advice appreciated.","Start with the basics,compression test,open air gap spark test,then on to fuel diagnostics","Start with the basics,compression test,open air gap spark test,then on to fuel diagnostics",Are the wires going to the correct plugs? Do a cylinder drop test just pull a plug wire and put it back on while the engine is idleing the engine should respond the same on each wire. A good pair of insulated channellocks will keep you from getting bit. That will tell you what cylinder/s are not firing. +"PROLINE 2950 w/ twin Yamaha 250 , OX66 1998 starboard engine fluctuating and don't go over 2900 rpm on WOT, but in neutral it show up to 5000rpm, I did swap every possible parts from port engine, went to 2 different Yamaha dealers and they don't have any clue what to do and this is going for 7 weeks. +Please any advice appreciated.","degraded liner in fuel hose? the liner in a short fuel hoses in my engine was separating from the inside of house. It collapsed as RPMs/fuel flow increased., choking fuel flow. Would start and run like a champ, spool up to 5400 rpm, then in a few seconds RPMs would start dropping and level off at about 4500rpm. Replaced line, all is well.","degraded liner in fuel hose? the liner in a short fuel hoses in my engine was separating from the inside of house. It collapsed as RPMs/fuel flow increased., choking fuel flow. Would start and run like a champ, spool up to 5400 rpm, then in a few seconds RPMs would start dropping and level off at about 4500rpm. Replaced line, all is well.",What is the reason your pulling the tank? +"1988 Prov150hp with 110psi on all 6cyl, good spark, clean carbs, starts nice, idles great, planes out powerful, runs warm, but vibrates and bogs down to trolling speed, nearly cutting off, put back to neutral in less than 5 sec and it's all good again for a few miles more. What fixes itself in less than 5 seconds? Resistance test all coils found 1 out of spec 15.2M Ohm, 1 at 3.5K Ohm, the rest at 2.56K Ohms. Changed one coil no help, run off portable tank, no help. Rectifier charges good. +I am stumped. Any advice is greatly appreciated!",Fuel pumps been checked? Poor fuel delivery to the carbs (assume it is carb'd?) could catch up at idle then drain the bowls again as you plane off.,Fuel pumps been checked? Poor fuel delivery to the carbs (assume it is carb'd?) could catch up at idle then drain the bowls again as you plane off.,"I thank you guys for all your help!!! Chris you mentioned something about car parts.....I dont think they are useing car parts....i went to a boat dealer and that is the way he described it to me...a chevy motor part.....i thought he ment that chevy made motors for boats...but i will check on that....grand total for the changeout is $546 bucks....the fabrication is i think 250...the part is 200....and 1 hours labor...thats what i was told...i dont know if its smart to do.....i just ask and follow people who know alot more than me. so check if it is a car part.....I know that car and marine parts are the same but not the same....same name, same procudure, but they dont operate the same, like sparts and things like that....but thanks again guys.... + +Ken Brimage" +"1988 Prov150hp with 110psi on all 6cyl, good spark, clean carbs, starts nice, idles great, planes out powerful, runs warm, but vibrates and bogs down to trolling speed, nearly cutting off, put back to neutral in less than 5 sec and it's all good again for a few miles more. What fixes itself in less than 5 seconds? Resistance test all coils found 1 out of spec 15.2M Ohm, 1 at 3.5K Ohm, the rest at 2.56K Ohms. Changed one coil no help, run off portable tank, no help. Rectifier charges good. +I am stumped. Any advice is greatly appreciated!","Test run with a "" known to be good "" hose and portable tank.","Test run with a "" known to be good "" hose and portable tank.","1982. + +In what country are you?" +"1988 Prov150hp with 110psi on all 6cyl, good spark, clean carbs, starts nice, idles great, planes out powerful, runs warm, but vibrates and bogs down to trolling speed, nearly cutting off, put back to neutral in less than 5 sec and it's all good again for a few miles more. What fixes itself in less than 5 seconds? Resistance test all coils found 1 out of spec 15.2M Ohm, 1 at 3.5K Ohm, the rest at 2.56K Ohms. Changed one coil no help, run off portable tank, no help. Rectifier charges good. +I am stumped. Any advice is greatly appreciated!","Thank you for all the recommendation and advice. Yes, 2 new fuel pumps, yes ran it off of a known working portable tank, hose/primer, change fuel connectors to Mercury's, no oil fouled, all circuits are tested, absolutely not the cdi, will bypass Tstats and reduced relief valve tension next... +it is a mystery at this point! Haven't seen an issue that fixes itself in less than 5 seconds and happens again at the same distant every time!","Thank you for all the recommendation and advice. Yes, 2 new fuel pumps, yes ran it off of a known working portable tank, hose/primer, change fuel connectors to Mercury's, no oil fouled, all circuits are tested, absolutely not the cdi, will bypass Tstats and reduced relief valve tension next... +it is a mystery at this point! Haven't seen an issue that fixes itself in less than 5 seconds and happens again at the same distant every time!","I didn’t do the impeller fins, but I did the inside of the housing, whether it was enough or not i don’t know. To me it sounds like the impeller running against the inside of the steel cup, I greased the splines on the driveshaft too" +"1988 Prov150hp with 110psi on all 6cyl, good spark, clean carbs, starts nice, idles great, planes out powerful, runs warm, but vibrates and bogs down to trolling speed, nearly cutting off, put back to neutral in less than 5 sec and it's all good again for a few miles more. What fixes itself in less than 5 seconds? Resistance test all coils found 1 out of spec 15.2M Ohm, 1 at 3.5K Ohm, the rest at 2.56K Ohms. Changed one coil no help, run off portable tank, no help. Rectifier charges good. +I am stumped. Any advice is greatly appreciated!",How clean are the carbs and how are the float settings?,How clean are the carbs and how are the float settings?,The only thing I can offer is that you are grounded somewhere where you ought not to be grounded. That is you have a dead short somewhere around that melted wire. Trace it and re-check all of your work. +"1988 Prov150hp with 110psi on all 6cyl, good spark, clean carbs, starts nice, idles great, planes out powerful, runs warm, but vibrates and bogs down to trolling speed, nearly cutting off, put back to neutral in less than 5 sec and it's all good again for a few miles more. What fixes itself in less than 5 seconds? Resistance test all coils found 1 out of spec 15.2M Ohm, 1 at 3.5K Ohm, the rest at 2.56K Ohms. Changed one coil no help, run off portable tank, no help. Rectifier charges good. +I am stumped. Any advice is greatly appreciated!",Still thinking fuel delivery. Is there 2 or 3 fuel pumps on that engine?,Still thinking fuel delivery. Is there 2 or 3 fuel pumps on that engine?,anyone w/ advice +"1988 Prov150hp with 110psi on all 6cyl, good spark, clean carbs, starts nice, idles great, planes out powerful, runs warm, but vibrates and bogs down to trolling speed, nearly cutting off, put back to neutral in less than 5 sec and it's all good again for a few miles more. What fixes itself in less than 5 seconds? Resistance test all coils found 1 out of spec 15.2M Ohm, 1 at 3.5K Ohm, the rest at 2.56K Ohms. Changed one coil no help, run off portable tank, no help. Rectifier charges good. +I am stumped. Any advice is greatly appreciated!","degraded fuel hose lining collapsing. check engine fuel lines, then others.","degraded fuel hose lining collapsing. check engine fuel lines, then others.","Most definitely the switch. It could be bad contact. Before tearing it apart, turn off power, then spray electrical cleaner in and around the switch and move it back and forth many times as if you were raising & lowering. Turn on power and see if that worked. If not either repair or replace switch. Many of the older ones can be taken apart and cleaned up." +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,sounds like a spun prop hub.,sounds like a spun prop hub.,Thanks. I'll check them out. +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,"waynebrown said: + + + + sounds like a spun prop hub. + +Click to expand... + + +Is there a way to check for a sprung prop hub?","waynebrown said: + + + + sounds like a spun prop hub. + +Click to expand... + + +Is there a way to check for a sprung prop hub?","shallow offset box wrench....if that doesn't work, I'd take it to a welding shop and let them cut it off w/ a torch..." +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,"Yes Take a felt marker and scribe a straight line from hub to prop. Test run in water,see if marks separate or misalign.","Yes Take a felt marker and scribe a straight line from hub to prop. Test run in water,see if marks separate or misalign.","I'd drop the gearbox off to confirm that it is the powerhead that won't move and not a seized gearbox. + +Stuart" +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Yes Take a felt marker and scribe a straight line from hub to prop. Test run in water,see if marks separate or misalign. + +Click to expand... + + +Do you have a picture as an example? Not sure I understand where to draw the line","johnnygjr said: + + + + Yes Take a felt marker and scribe a straight line from hub to prop. Test run in water,see if marks separate or misalign. + +Click to expand... + + +Do you have a picture as an example? Not sure I understand where to draw the line","DANNYCWAY said: + + + + I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny + +Click to expand... + + +Is this motor in saltwater? Is the motor overheating? If so, the water jackets could be plugged with salt buildup. Run the motor and check each cylinder with a infra red temp gauge. Operating temp should be between 140-165 degrees, the alarm comes on when temps are between 183-195 degrees. If clogged water jackets is the problem, the jackets should be removed and the water channel would have to be cleaned." +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,From inside of prop next to prop shaft nut outwards to propeller hub,From inside of prop next to prop shaft nut outwards to propeller hub,"Now that I think about it, the oil pump defaults to the fully open position. Which is where it is as depicted in your photo. The setting is made with the throttle (and the oil pump) in the closed position. Rotate the oil pump control lever clockwise so that the connection point is on the other side. Then look for a mark on the lever. Should be opposite the tang which holds the spring in place. + +What manual are you using? I am looking at the Yamaha manual and it is pretty clear." +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,"johnnygjr said: + + + + From inside of prop next to prop shaft nut outwards to propeller hub + +Click to expand... + + +Ok. If I test it in the bay the saltwater will erase the line right?","johnnygjr said: + + + + From inside of prop next to prop shaft nut outwards to propeller hub + +Click to expand... + + +Ok. If I test it in the bay the saltwater will erase the line right?","You'll also want to double clamp every fitting below the water line. I know those pump arrangements are there for the live wells, but all that plumbing would make me a nervous wreck" +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,"Use a permanent felt marker of a contrasting color , Or get a white UNI PAINT OPAQUE OIL BASED MARKER PX20 made by mitsubishi pencil. when dry will not come off","Use a permanent felt marker of a contrasting color , Or get a white UNI PAINT OPAQUE OIL BASED MARKER PX20 made by mitsubishi pencil. when dry will not come off","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + You wont know until you open it up. How big are the drain holes? + +Click to expand... + + +About an 1 1/2. The hull seems really solid, I took it out a few days ago for the first time. I'd be really surprised if the stringers and bulkheads weren't glassed in. Lol ok thank for your input we'll just have to put some holes in the deck this winter and see what's going on in there." +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Use a permanent felt marker of a contrasting color , Or get a white UNI PAINT OPAQUE OIL BASED MARKER PX20 made by mitsubishi pencil. when dry will not come off + +Click to expand... + + +Can anyone tell me what type and size prop I have? I dont see any details on it anywhere.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Use a permanent felt marker of a contrasting color , Or get a white UNI PAINT OPAQUE OIL BASED MARKER PX20 made by mitsubishi pencil. when dry will not come off + +Click to expand... + + +Can anyone tell me what type and size prop I have? I dont see any details on it anywhere.",Do yourself a favor and get at least a six station fuse block with a ground bar and rewire all the accys. Get some 8g wire black and red tinned marine grade from the battery to the fuse block and fuse the red at the battery. then you can easily add accys right now if the fish finder is not fused at the battery that wire could light up and make a real mess of your loop. +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,"we can only guesstimate, What type of boat,size, weight,load onboard,cargo etc Normally diameter and pitch are stamped on the rear part,closest to motor of propeller. Diameter can be roughly measured with 2 straight edges and a tape measure,your yamaha dealer might have a ballpark figure","we can only guesstimate, What type of boat,size, weight,load onboard,cargo etc Normally diameter and pitch are stamped on the rear part,closest to motor of propeller. Diameter can be roughly measured with 2 straight edges and a tape measure,your yamaha dealer might have a ballpark figure","Check the shift switch, you will need a computer to check it out. If the motor does not get a signal from it when starting up then when u put it it in gear and add RPM’s it will start to drop cylinders until it will bog out and die. If u don’t have a computer then u will need to look at the little switch by the shift slide, it should be pushed in when in neutral and open when in gear. They are a pain in the but to do without a computer because u don’t know if it’s on or off" +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,"johnnygjr said: + + + + we can only guesstimate, What type of boat,size, weight,load onboard,cargo etc Normally diameter and pitch are stamped on the rear part,closest to motor of propeller. Diameter can be roughly measured with 2 straight edges and a tape measure,your yamaha dealer might have a ballpark figure[/QUOTE + +2007 Carolina Skiff Sea chaser 175RG. Not sure about the weight + +Click to expand...","johnnygjr said: + + + + we can only guesstimate, What type of boat,size, weight,load onboard,cargo etc Normally diameter and pitch are stamped on the rear part,closest to motor of propeller. Diameter can be roughly measured with 2 straight edges and a tape measure,your yamaha dealer might have a ballpark figure[/QUOTE + +2007 Carolina Skiff Sea chaser 175RG. Not sure about the weight + +Click to expand...","What happened to start the problem, storage?" +I took my boat out on Saturday for the first time in about 3 months. It's a 2007 Yamaha 90 2 stroke engine with very very very low hours. I have good rpm and everything was running the way that it should but i was only able to go about 10 mph while in full throttle. the lower unit is turning because the water make very good waves but the boat is not moving fast at all. what could this be? Please help.,"What are your wot rpms, that will dictate proper pitch requirements needed for your application, Without knowing what's on there now gives us no basis of where to start","What are your wot rpms, that will dictate proper pitch requirements needed for your application, Without knowing what's on there now gives us no basis of where to start","Is your boat rated for a 60HP? Maybe you have more HP than the hull is designed to handle? + +A picture of your transom with the engine trimmed all the way down would be really helpful. The cavitation plate of the outboard should be just about level with the bottom of the hull. Too high and you'll get prop cavitation, too low and you'll get drag and odd hull attitudes. From what you describe it sounds like your outboard may be setting too low. + +This image is from Mercury Marine and illustrates correct motor placement for various applications: + + +If all things are correct and your hull isn't over-powered, then you might need to install a set of trim tabs to change the hull attitude. + +http://nauticusinc.com/smart-tabs/ + +I installed Smart Tabs on a previous boat because it did the same thing. I chased just about every issue and nothing was out of whack except a list to port when planing. The Smart Tabs can be adjusted so you have a little more downforce on one side which will lift that side slightly. That should take care of your list and help the boat to run on level plane. + +KJ" +"I had my engine alarm go off indicating low oil on the engine tank. The pump in the main tank was not pumping oil to the engine. I had this problem on my right engine a while back . It was corrosion on a pin in the plug at the main tank . Thinking it was the same problem it was not. Swapping all the units I finely got down to the wiring. It would not pump automatic and would not pump when working the switch on the engine. They both share the same ground. To check the wiring out you will have to disconnect the harness plug on the engine. Located on the forward right side by the throttle connections. It's a pain and have to remove some brackets to get at it. You will recognize the harness as the same flat one on the tank. Once disconnected you could ring out ( check for continuity from one point to another )  the  four wires to the tank. What I found was not a problem with the ground wire ( blue wire ) but I had an open wire on the voltage wire ( brown ) . Checking the harness I found a pin hole with green corrosion that we all have seen .. Opening the harness I found it broken . Spliced the wire and sealed with liquid tape and put some of shrink tubing over it . It now checks OK.
Hope this helps anyone with the same problem. good luck,
 Bob
",Nice work flabob1,Nice work flabob1,"it should be a left handed rotation engine....which is normal or auto in its direction....reference is to look at flywheel - if top moves to left, its left handed... + +2x the mention on the electrical items being 'different' - same for the carbs. using auto stuff for either will usually nullify your insurance if there's a mishap.... + +finally the internals are from the auto realm...its the combination that's application specific due to the continuous load factor the engine sees...rarely is there benefit from deviating from factory values...." +"My engine will run fine at low rpm's and will run 50% of the time at full throttle, but some of the time when I open it up, it stalls out, as if it were running out of fuel. After that happens I can restart it and run it at low rpm's. I can rev it up to high rpm's in neutral. Then after a while, once I shut it down and restart it, it will run fine again. Any suggestions? Please help.","Also after the engine stalls out, I need to re-prime in order to restart the engine.","Also after the engine stalls out, I need to re-prime in order to restart the engine.",Good point. Ill get another tach and see whats doin. +"My engine will run fine at low rpm's and will run 50% of the time at full throttle, but some of the time when I open it up, it stalls out, as if it were running out of fuel. After that happens I can restart it and run it at low rpm's. I can rev it up to high rpm's in neutral. Then after a while, once I shut it down and restart it, it will run fine again. Any suggestions? Please help.","check the fuel tank vent.also could be the fuel pump not pumping.pull it to bits if you can and check for any dirt,you should be able to blow thru it,but not suck back.must admit my 3cyl 30hp 1992 does similar things,seems to starve at full throttle.tried all sorts.","check the fuel tank vent.also could be the fuel pump not pumping.pull it to bits if you can and check for any dirt,you should be able to blow thru it,but not suck back.must admit my 3cyl 30hp 1992 does similar things,seems to starve at full throttle.tried all sorts.",Not yet I ordered the manual for the engine and a friend will look at it as I am back up in Pa again and the boat is in Florida. Yes it was the throttle only button. You are probably correct I will forward your advice to my friend. Thanks I will let you know after he looks at it. +"My engine will run fine at low rpm's and will run 50% of the time at full throttle, but some of the time when I open it up, it stalls out, as if it were running out of fuel. After that happens I can restart it and run it at low rpm's. I can rev it up to high rpm's in neutral. Then after a while, once I shut it down and restart it, it will run fine again. Any suggestions? Please help.","look for cracked vacum lines or lines that may have fallen off. had a problem kinda like that and found a 1/8"" line fall off the fuel pump could not see it untill i got in a ways","look for cracked vacum lines or lines that may have fallen off. had a problem kinda like that and found a 1/8"" line fall off the fuel pump could not see it untill i got in a ways","[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Here's more! +1700 Series Heater Repair +WH16 Thermostat Replacement [/FONT] +[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Tools you will need: +[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1/4"" wrench (socket) +Phillips screwdriver (med)[/FONT]​ ​ [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1.) [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The WH16 thermostat is located behind the rectangular electrical panel. [/FONT] + + + + + +[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]2.) [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Lift retaining tabs while sliding the thermostat upwards to remove the part.[/FONT] +[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Cut the two input wires +(supply).[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Remove wires from the heating element (2 Phillips head screws).[/FONT] [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Reconnect new part in reverse order.[/FONT]​" +"My engine will run fine at low rpm's and will run 50% of the time at full throttle, but some of the time when I open it up, it stalls out, as if it were running out of fuel. After that happens I can restart it and run it at low rpm's. I can rev it up to high rpm's in neutral. Then after a while, once I shut it down and restart it, it will run fine again. Any suggestions? Please help.","Thanks guys, have a new fuel line on the tank, but worried it might be leaking air. Going to try a different line on a clean tank and see if that works, if so - I'll switch out the other. Going to look all through it and see if it might be getting air in anywhere or if any lines have fallen off, check fuel pump, etc. + +I am also going to see if it might be an issue with the ignition switch, initially the kill switch needed to be jiggled in order for the engine to start up, I checked all the wiring and it wasn't that, so I may need to replace the switch. + +Any other ideas or suggestions before pulling off the carbs and cleaning them - if those don't work? Thanks for the help, I'll let you know how it goes this afternoon.","Thanks guys, have a new fuel line on the tank, but worried it might be leaking air. Going to try a different line on a clean tank and see if that works, if so - I'll switch out the other. Going to look all through it and see if it might be getting air in anywhere or if any lines have fallen off, check fuel pump, etc. + +I am also going to see if it might be an issue with the ignition switch, initially the kill switch needed to be jiggled in order for the engine to start up, I checked all the wiring and it wasn't that, so I may need to replace the switch. + +Any other ideas or suggestions before pulling off the carbs and cleaning them - if those don't work? Thanks for the help, I'll let you know how it goes this afternoon.","PBRMAN said: + + + + I suspect that you do not have a functional warning horn. You can verify that by grounding the pink wire on your heat sensor when the key is on. You should hear the horn. Also check to see if your oil tank under the cowl is filling. If the oil level is down to the lower line you will go in to rpm reduction. If the oil transfer filter on the back of the remote tank is restricted you will fill to slowly to keep up with consumption. + +Click to expand... + + + Yes that is correct my horn is not working. There is plenty of oil in the tank and it is keeping up with consumption. However my oil low level light is on warning me of such thing but it has always been like this even when it was running great. The problem just happened out of the blue while I was on a plane about an hour On my way! To my destination and just suddenly bogged down and would not exceed the 1800 rpm." +"My engine will run fine at low rpm's and will run 50% of the time at full throttle, but some of the time when I open it up, it stalls out, as if it were running out of fuel. After that happens I can restart it and run it at low rpm's. I can rev it up to high rpm's in neutral. Then after a while, once I shut it down and restart it, it will run fine again. Any suggestions? Please help.",Pulling and cleaning the carbs is pretty easy on these (just did mine last weekend). Just make sure you don't get any carb cleaner (berkebile 2+2 gum cutter is my favorite with compressed air) on the rubber orings or they swell up.,Pulling and cleaning the carbs is pretty easy on these (just did mine last weekend). Just make sure you don't get any carb cleaner (berkebile 2+2 gum cutter is my favorite with compressed air) on the rubber orings or they swell up.,"Wow, Nice looking boat! Tell us what engine, & drive you got? Then we'll be able to help you better." +"My engine will run fine at low rpm's and will run 50% of the time at full throttle, but some of the time when I open it up, it stalls out, as if it were running out of fuel. After that happens I can restart it and run it at low rpm's. I can rev it up to high rpm's in neutral. Then after a while, once I shut it down and restart it, it will run fine again. Any suggestions? Please help.","Hi, Greg here. I have the exact problem with mine too. Just when you think it's going to plane out, the motor begins to hesitate and then eventually dies. It restarts every time and revs up in neutral but as soon as I put it under load, it starts to chug again. If you run it at half speed, you can usually maintain that speed but as soon as you go full out, it'll go for about 40 seconds and then lose power and die out again. My neighbour tells me to replace the plugs regardless of what they look like so I will. So far, checked the carbs (clean as a whistle), cleaned the fuel strainer and replaced the fuel hose from the tank to the motor (factory Yamaha line $$$$) This includes both fittings and the primer ball. +The fuel is new and the oil in injecting..............I will be a happy guy when a solution is found. Please let me know if you get to the bottom of it and I'll do the same. Mine is a 1990 2 stroke 70 hp. A little older but what they hey","Hi, Greg here. I have the exact problem with mine too. Just when you think it's going to plane out, the motor begins to hesitate and then eventually dies. It restarts every time and revs up in neutral but as soon as I put it under load, it starts to chug again. If you run it at half speed, you can usually maintain that speed but as soon as you go full out, it'll go for about 40 seconds and then lose power and die out again. My neighbour tells me to replace the plugs regardless of what they look like so I will. So far, checked the carbs (clean as a whistle), cleaned the fuel strainer and replaced the fuel hose from the tank to the motor (factory Yamaha line $$$$) This includes both fittings and the primer ball. +The fuel is new and the oil in injecting..............I will be a happy guy when a solution is found. Please let me know if you get to the bottom of it and I'll do the same. Mine is a 1990 2 stroke 70 hp. A little older but what they hey","Right, my bad. I can follow the diagram with the starter motor, solenoid, fuse and ignition. I'll go with that and see if it turns over the starter motor. Then I'll try adding the tilt and trim. Then I'll try the emergency switch box connected to the oil reservoir-this also has wiring for the pump on the main oil tank(boat), the tilt and trim indicator and the rev counter/oil level warning. The manual i have here for it is printed in Japan in 2005 for E115A, 115B and 140B. It must be the right one unless its been altered over the 30-odd years of use. I'll keep trying, no choice. Thanks again Boscoe" +"My engine will run fine at low rpm's and will run 50% of the time at full throttle, but some of the time when I open it up, it stalls out, as if it were running out of fuel. After that happens I can restart it and run it at low rpm's. I can rev it up to high rpm's in neutral. Then after a while, once I shut it down and restart it, it will run fine again. Any suggestions? Please help.","maybe a can help, lets start by trying a different fuel tank remove fuel connectors place line directly in fuel tank connect directly to fuel filter at motor. remove clear bowl engine fuel filter ther should be a black o ring in top lip of filter bowl. push in choke while running under load does motor speed up if yes lean on fuel. modles with butterfly choke run under load with breather off make shure choke shutters are not sucking shut. as for the engine that shuts down and restarts after sitting you my not have a fuel problem your motor my be going into guardian.over heat/bad float snd in oil tank. has the warring buzzer been verified if your warning horn is bad one of thes conditions may be your problem without you knowing.when the motor experences one of these conditions you will have to turn off key to reset only then will you be able throttle past idle.as for possible ign switch this can be checked by simply unpluging larg black cannon connector located inside engine pan after motor has been started run boat normanly if problem goes away key and kill switch need inspecting.you will have to reconnect engine harness to shut down motor. good luck guys let us know what you find","maybe a can help, lets start by trying a different fuel tank remove fuel connectors place line directly in fuel tank connect directly to fuel filter at motor. remove clear bowl engine fuel filter ther should be a black o ring in top lip of filter bowl. push in choke while running under load does motor speed up if yes lean on fuel. modles with butterfly choke run under load with breather off make shure choke shutters are not sucking shut. as for the engine that shuts down and restarts after sitting you my not have a fuel problem your motor my be going into guardian.over heat/bad float snd in oil tank. has the warring buzzer been verified if your warning horn is bad one of thes conditions may be your problem without you knowing.when the motor experences one of these conditions you will have to turn off key to reset only then will you be able throttle past idle.as for possible ign switch this can be checked by simply unpluging larg black cannon connector located inside engine pan after motor has been started run boat normanly if problem goes away key and kill switch need inspecting.you will have to reconnect engine harness to shut down motor. good luck guys let us know what you find","Thank you for your reply. Yes, it is a T9.9 XEA. 2012 model year. Is this problem most likely due to oil pump failure or is it more likely sensor or electrical in nature? The motor has very low hours. If not those, then I would think further cleaning is needed. Being there is no oil filter, and if indeed it is an issue of gunk from being submerged, where would I most likely find the place it needs cleaning? Am I dreaming to think that I can fix this myself? I have lots of experience working on cars but not marine engines. Thank you in advance for any help you can throw my way." +"My engine will run fine at low rpm's and will run 50% of the time at full throttle, but some of the time when I open it up, it stalls out, as if it were running out of fuel. After that happens I can restart it and run it at low rpm's. I can rev it up to high rpm's in neutral. Then after a while, once I shut it down and restart it, it will run fine again. Any suggestions? Please help.","hello i know this forum is extremely old.. I'm Curious to know if anyone ever found out the issue. mY1990 yamaha outboard 85 2 stroe cuts off at high rpms. I've cleaned the carbs, replace fuel pump, clean fuel filter, replace spark plugs.. next is to replace fuel lines and choke pump. it seems to be lacking proper fuel at high rpms, or not retaining feul. what do you guys suggest i do next? thanks in advanced.","hello i know this forum is extremely old.. I'm Curious to know if anyone ever found out the issue. mY1990 yamaha outboard 85 2 stroe cuts off at high rpms. I've cleaned the carbs, replace fuel pump, clean fuel filter, replace spark plugs.. next is to replace fuel lines and choke pump. it seems to be lacking proper fuel at high rpms, or not retaining feul. what do you guys suggest i do next? thanks in advanced.",there is an inline fuse in the wiring harness under the cowl... +"My engine will run fine at low rpm's and will run 50% of the time at full throttle, but some of the time when I open it up, it stalls out, as if it were running out of fuel. After that happens I can restart it and run it at low rpm's. I can rev it up to high rpm's in neutral. Then after a while, once I shut it down and restart it, it will run fine again. Any suggestions? Please help.","Yamahascboy,you will get a better response if you post a new thread, Try using a timing light while running to see if you are losing spark, use an assistant.","Yamahascboy,you will get a better response if you post a new thread, Try using a timing light while running to see if you are losing spark, use an assistant.","Ok so I had the boat in the water a few weeks ago and it all ran fine, the most noticeable difference is in the rev range and I really diddnt push it too hard, however where the engine used to stop breathing at 5500rpm it will now easily rev to 5800rpm and beyond, I held it back at 5800rpm until I get a real feel for the changes and feel confident to push it beyond that. The engine should be able to rev to about 6500rpm now in theory at least. + +Without throwing the throttle control to WOT but using about 3/4 throttle from standing start there is a noticeable difference in acceleration. I diddnt have the GPS fine logging on this time out but I can tell from the speed/rpm ratio there is an overall improvement, on average I have gained around about a 1Kn speed improvement vs rpm accross the top of the rev range. For example previously at about 4500rpm I would get about 21Kn, now its closer to 23Kn as my cruising speed. This is consistent accross the whole rev range. The engine is obviously delivering slightly more power per stroke to achieve this through a better AFR. + +With regard to top end previously I would get to about 29-30Kn at 5500rpm, 31Kn on a good day into a head wind (air lifting the boat out of the water assists in drag reduction), now that I can rev higher in the range I got to 33Kn @ 5800rpm and theres still a little more in the legs from the engine after that but for what I do I am not likely to need those sort of speeds. + +Fuel economy has changed, where I used to get around 8L/Hr its now about 9.5L/Hr but it was pretty flat when we went out and so we were crusing a bit faster than we would normally out the front and you could probhably take off about 0.5L/hr to take this in to account based on my previous logs. + +Ive put photos up of the restrictor here.... + +http://s323.photobucket.com/albums/nn455/ira11y/" +Can only get 4200 RPM. Rough idle and very strong gas smell. Good compression. new plugs. changed all ign. coils one at a time. seems to have good spark. Have twins so have been switching parts but no good so far. Thanks for any help,"Seems to have good spark doesn't get it done, Try an open air gap spark test,a bright blue snapping spark","Seems to have good spark doesn't get it done, Try an open air gap spark test,a bright blue snapping spark",most regular gauges are made to operate with a 240-30 ohm sensor.....simple operation with the resistance varying with the depth of the gas in the tank.....the display unit pn422 is compatible with these sensors...i looked at the wiring diagram on the pn1811 sensor and there is an extra wire feeding 12v to it....this 1811 sensor also needs calibrating with the display ...i would guess the sensor would not work with regular gauge but not positive...their support number is 800-222-7617.....has this boat been modified?...with a built in gas tank there had to be access to a place for a sending unit..... +"Hi everyone! I have looked all over for an answer to my question so I figured I would turn to the pros. +I have a 1994 yamaha 30 3 cylinder (mlhs) pullstart only. I bought this motor after I sold my electric start mercury and gosh is this thing hard to pull start. +the compression is 140 on all 3 cylinders. I can remove all 3 spark plugs and it pulls over smooth. as I put all the plugs back in I'm hit with a wall of compression. removed the pull rope and it works freely. can put motor in neutral and the prop spins freely also. am I over looking something? my last yamaha 30 pullstart was no where near this hard to pull start.","If that's a 4 stroke,a valve adjustment would help","If that's a 4 stroke,a valve adjustment would help","Hello again Scott ::: That's would be wonderful, I'll contact you next week.... Lots of ice here--- not a huge hurry....(I hate winter).. + +Thanks :: Dennis" +"Bought my 1986 18' Boston Whaler new in 1986. The twin 70hp Yamaha's have never missed a lick in over 3000 hours of use, both in salt and fresh water. That is until last week when I lost power in one, she didn't quit on me totally and got us back to the dock. Upon further examination found that I lost a ring in the center hole and it scored the liner real deep. I can't afford to re power with new four strokes like I would like right now. A few years back I bought a 1990 150 Prov at an estate auction. More like stole it actually. I have gone though it pretty well, bench ran it and all systems are go. I was told that it less than 700 hrs on it and from the looks of it, I believe it. It will have to do for now at least, the season has started at Pyramid Lake NV and I have to get back out and catch some more of those 20lb cutthroat trout. + +Now my question: Will I be able to use the controls, wiring, instrumentation and trim from one of the 70's or will I have to buy all new. I can't even express how much I don't want to have to change all the cables and wiring because it goes all under deck and you have very little access to it.","Since I never got a reply to my question I just dove in and changed the motors out the twin 70's for the single 150. Here is what I found. The ten pole wire harness plugged right in and worked except the tack reading is wrong. The main power and ground had to be wired in a bit different and if any one needs to I'll go into detail and post a photo. The trim remotes and gauge and auto choke all work. I was able to use one of the steering cable no problem I just removed the second one. The biggest hurdle to .jump was the throttle control linkage. On the 70 hp motors they require the cable to pull to accelerate. On the Prov 150 hp it requires the cable push to accelerate. Since I had two sets of cables I used the gear shifting cables of each control, and took the throttle control cables out. One control handle now engages the motor forward and reverse and the other advances the throttle. Also the cable ends needed to be drilled out a 16th of and inch to fit the pin. I had to custom make a way to hold the ends of each cable also and did so. (Back yard engineering style.) +Long story short took it out today and it worked perfectly mechanically, except the tack reads double what it should by my guess.","Since I never got a reply to my question I just dove in and changed the motors out the twin 70's for the single 150. Here is what I found. The ten pole wire harness plugged right in and worked except the tack reading is wrong. The main power and ground had to be wired in a bit different and if any one needs to I'll go into detail and post a photo. The trim remotes and gauge and auto choke all work. I was able to use one of the steering cable no problem I just removed the second one. The biggest hurdle to .jump was the throttle control linkage. On the 70 hp motors they require the cable to pull to accelerate. On the Prov 150 hp it requires the cable push to accelerate. Since I had two sets of cables I used the gear shifting cables of each control, and took the throttle control cables out. One control handle now engages the motor forward and reverse and the other advances the throttle. Also the cable ends needed to be drilled out a 16th of and inch to fit the pin. I had to custom make a way to hold the ends of each cable also and did so. (Back yard engineering style.) +Long story short took it out today and it worked perfectly mechanically, except the tack reads double what it should by my guess.","The asking price sounds fair for that engine if 100%. But no matter the price, if you're not able to test an 18 year old motor under load I'd walk away from the sale. Otherwise it's a crap shoot on what you're purchasing. Perform all the diagnostic tests you want on an outboard when not under load. The end-all be-all test is how it performs pushing a load." +"Bought my 1986 18' Boston Whaler new in 1986. The twin 70hp Yamaha's have never missed a lick in over 3000 hours of use, both in salt and fresh water. That is until last week when I lost power in one, she didn't quit on me totally and got us back to the dock. Upon further examination found that I lost a ring in the center hole and it scored the liner real deep. I can't afford to re power with new four strokes like I would like right now. A few years back I bought a 1990 150 Prov at an estate auction. More like stole it actually. I have gone though it pretty well, bench ran it and all systems are go. I was told that it less than 700 hrs on it and from the looks of it, I believe it. It will have to do for now at least, the season has started at Pyramid Lake NV and I have to get back out and catch some more of those 20lb cutthroat trout. + +Now my question: Will I be able to use the controls, wiring, instrumentation and trim from one of the 70's or will I have to buy all new. I can't even express how much I don't want to have to change all the cables and wiring because it goes all under deck and you have very little access to it.",Is there a switch on the back of the tach? If so try different settings and check it with a timing light tach.,Is there a switch on the back of the tach? If so try different settings and check it with a timing light tach.,"You're correct. However, this carb does not have a mixture screw. But, thank you for sharing in my (misery) frustration. At least the carb is easy to remove and disassemble. I have some jet reamers and reamed out the pilot jet which did seem to improve things a tad, without upsetting starting or idle. So now, I will remove the carb once again. This time I will pressurize the float bowl with a squeeze bulb and actuate the throttle accel pump and try to see where it squirts fuel (if it squirts fuel.. which I assume it should) since I previously cleaned everything and the little piston & ck balls seem free." +"Bought my 1986 18' Boston Whaler new in 1986. The twin 70hp Yamaha's have never missed a lick in over 3000 hours of use, both in salt and fresh water. That is until last week when I lost power in one, she didn't quit on me totally and got us back to the dock. Upon further examination found that I lost a ring in the center hole and it scored the liner real deep. I can't afford to re power with new four strokes like I would like right now. A few years back I bought a 1990 150 Prov at an estate auction. More like stole it actually. I have gone though it pretty well, bench ran it and all systems are go. I was told that it less than 700 hrs on it and from the looks of it, I believe it. It will have to do for now at least, the season has started at Pyramid Lake NV and I have to get back out and catch some more of those 20lb cutthroat trout. + +Now my question: Will I be able to use the controls, wiring, instrumentation and trim from one of the 70's or will I have to buy all new. I can't even express how much I don't want to have to change all the cables and wiring because it goes all under deck and you have very little access to it.",well done Cutthroat,well done Cutthroat,"Generally, I think it is a bad idea to completely step down 24 V batteries to 12 V. That stepper will not normally work in both directions. That is, you will not be able to charge the 24 V batteries off the Force 35. Now, I haven't looked at this stuff for a long time, so there may be a standard solution out there somewhere that I am not aware of. + +If I were doing this, I would install a 12 V for starting and instrumentation and hold the 24 V batteries for the trolling motor. Besides. That lets you place the 24 V batteries far forward, which will provide better ballance to the boat. You will need a 24 V charger for those batteries." +"Bought my 1986 18' Boston Whaler new in 1986. The twin 70hp Yamaha's have never missed a lick in over 3000 hours of use, both in salt and fresh water. That is until last week when I lost power in one, she didn't quit on me totally and got us back to the dock. Upon further examination found that I lost a ring in the center hole and it scored the liner real deep. I can't afford to re power with new four strokes like I would like right now. A few years back I bought a 1990 150 Prov at an estate auction. More like stole it actually. I have gone though it pretty well, bench ran it and all systems are go. I was told that it less than 700 hrs on it and from the looks of it, I believe it. It will have to do for now at least, the season has started at Pyramid Lake NV and I have to get back out and catch some more of those 20lb cutthroat trout. + +Now my question: Will I be able to use the controls, wiring, instrumentation and trim from one of the 70's or will I have to buy all new. I can't even express how much I don't want to have to change all the cables and wiring because it goes all under deck and you have very little access to it.","Thanks, I did find a slotted adjustment dial under a rubber plug on the back of the Tach. When turned with motor running it only seems peg it to 7000 rpm idling and off. I have been trying make sure the tach is compatible with motor but not having any luck finding that data","Thanks, I did find a slotted adjustment dial under a rubber plug on the back of the Tach. When turned with motor running it only seems peg it to 7000 rpm idling and off. I have been trying make sure the tach is compatible with motor but not having any luck finding that data","Subtle differences between lower units are all but unknown outside of Mr. Fujimoto in Japan. + +Open the two parts catalogs. Start comparing part number differences. You will find the differences. But it won't tell you what each of those is about." +"Bought my 1986 18' Boston Whaler new in 1986. The twin 70hp Yamaha's have never missed a lick in over 3000 hours of use, both in salt and fresh water. That is until last week when I lost power in one, she didn't quit on me totally and got us back to the dock. Upon further examination found that I lost a ring in the center hole and it scored the liner real deep. I can't afford to re power with new four strokes like I would like right now. A few years back I bought a 1990 150 Prov at an estate auction. More like stole it actually. I have gone though it pretty well, bench ran it and all systems are go. I was told that it less than 700 hrs on it and from the looks of it, I believe it. It will have to do for now at least, the season has started at Pyramid Lake NV and I have to get back out and catch some more of those 20lb cutthroat trout. + +Now my question: Will I be able to use the controls, wiring, instrumentation and trim from one of the 70's or will I have to buy all new. I can't even express how much I don't want to have to change all the cables and wiring because it goes all under deck and you have very little access to it.","Thanks so far so good, just gotta get the tach figured out.","Thanks so far so good, just gotta get the tach figured out.","rowch01 said: + + + + So last night I ran the motor on the trailer with water muffs for about 15-20 min with no leaks what so ever. Maybe the person that owned the boat previous to me was mistaken ? Im not sure what else to do to check for a water leak, is there a way to pressurize the cooling system other than what I have already done ? + +Click to expand... + + +Being that he was selling the boat/motor to you and fully disclosed the block was leaking, I'd take his word for it. First thing that comes to mind as to why the motor didn't leak while on muffs is because the engine is not under load. Essentially, the motor doesn't have to work while on flush. Pistons are torqued, cylinders are under high pressure. + +2 options for you to run the engine under load.... + +1st, back the boat down the boat ramp and submerge the boat deep enough in the water to allow the engine to be lowered completely without the prop hitting bottom. Leave the boat hooked to the bow winch and leave the transom straps on. Make sure these are tight. Take top cowling off. Start motor and allow to warm up for a few minutes. Then put in forward gear and slowly begin to accelerate. Work your way up from idle speed to 2k. Keep it running and look at the engine for the leak. + +2nd option. Launch the boat and run it. I'd stay nearby the ramp just in case. Leave the top cowling off while you run it. Probably safer to bring a friend who can keep an eye on the engine to let you know if/when it leaks. Put stress on the motor, run it hard, try to induce the leak. If it leaks you'd wanna know now, not when you're out pleasure boating." +"Hi, quick question: On a Prov150 can anyone estimate how long it takes to use up the oil in the small oil tank mounted inside the engine cover, as at full throttle. I am shaking down this motor and just want to take it out and make sure she is going going work for me. I don't have the extra main oil tank yet. + +Thank you",I ran the boat today and used the oil in the tank mounted under the cover to the point the alarm went off in a little over 2 hours at 75% throttle.,I ran the boat today and used the oil in the tank mounted under the cover to the point the alarm went off in a little over 2 hours at 75% throttle.,"As we used to say ""looks like an infestation of metal mice to me"" +Grease worms cause little pitted holes." +"Hi, quick question: On a Prov150 can anyone estimate how long it takes to use up the oil in the small oil tank mounted inside the engine cover, as at full throttle. I am shaking down this motor and just want to take it out and make sure she is going going work for me. I don't have the extra main oil tank yet. + +Thank you","I guess you answered your own question, How much oil was in small tank?","I guess you answered your own question, How much oil was in small tank?","The drive shaft goes through and rotates the oil pump. Quite likely that you are seeing the oil pump seal. + +Why are you doing surgery on the motor without having the service manual handy? + +Snippet from the parts catalog below:" +"Hi, quick question: On a Prov150 can anyone estimate how long it takes to use up the oil in the small oil tank mounted inside the engine cover, as at full throttle. I am shaking down this motor and just want to take it out and make sure she is going going work for me. I don't have the extra main oil tank yet. + +Thank you","Good question, I am going to guess a quart usable before the alarm sounds and 1/2 quart reserve.","Good question, I am going to guess a quart usable before the alarm sounds and 1/2 quart reserve.",Thanks! I'll have to get down to the local scale and be sure of the weight. +"my 115 2004year makes oil a quart every 25 hours,can some one tell why, an what i can do??","Try searching F115 Making Oil on Google. It is a well known problem and there are several possible causes. The main one is that the rings are not properly seated and you are getting fuel in your oil if I remember properly. I think there may be a Yamaha service bulletin about using a different thermostat or similar. Others I think have had success by running the engine hard for a period. Only strange thing is that on 1 2004 engine I would have thought you would have had this problem when it was newer rather than now, The F115 can also get water in the oil from issues with the lower oil seal around the oil pump. Less common I think, but another casualty of Yamaha's wonderful F series oil pump seal design.","Try searching F115 Making Oil on Google. It is a well known problem and there are several possible causes. The main one is that the rings are not properly seated and you are getting fuel in your oil if I remember properly. I think there may be a Yamaha service bulletin about using a different thermostat or similar. Others I think have had success by running the engine hard for a period. Only strange thing is that on 1 2004 engine I would have thought you would have had this problem when it was newer rather than now, The F115 can also get water in the oil from issues with the lower oil seal around the oil pump. Less common I think, but another casualty of Yamaha's wonderful F series oil pump seal design.","river said: + + + + Motor ran fine last summer with plenty of power but when I took it out this year it does not have the same power. Runs seven MPH slower and turns seven to eight hundred less RPMs. Could this be a fuel problem or if water pump is worn and temp is elevated would this slow it down? + +Click to expand... + + +After changing water pump I have notice a slight knock or rattle, but not continuous." +"LONG story short. Bought boat w/o motor, saved money, year later found motor a shop sold and installed a motor on my boat..aslo 2 new batteries, did some rewire to batteries, flush fuel tank and new fuel level sensor as well. Spent lots of money. + +Engine: 03' 250 HDPI. (the install tech left screw off fuel level sensor and torn gasket + w/ 21 year old floor hatch + raining three weeks = LOTS of water in my tank and towed in on my 2nd trip out!!! I found the leak my self, the one he oddly complained about at pick-up day after install..he noticed and told me to keep any eye out..there seems to be a hole in my tank!! LOL...too late? + +..so after getting towed in + +R&R Racor w/ bowl, Engine mounted seperator, VST screen and Med Pressure myself. It fired for a split second.. but then cranks only...STILL NO START. +If I drain the VST tank and refill with primer ball, it'll fire again for a split second, then back to cranking only. + + +I've got fuel pressure spraying out nice from Schrader, +I've got VST tank pump buzzing +I've got good fuel volume from top of VST tank when I disconnect hose from Med Pressure Filter..flow with pressure out w/ key on and at cranking. + +Seems it is immediately losing pressure after initial fire-cough, then dies again...Any ideas??",How are you checking the fuel pressure? Do you have a gauge hooked to the VST? Did you change the filter between the vst and the high pressure pump? Did you drain all the water from the fuel rails?,How are you checking the fuel pressure? Do you have a gauge hooked to the VST? Did you change the filter between the vst and the high pressure pump? Did you drain all the water from the fuel rails?,"Here is a good Yamaha parts diagram for your motor at PartsPak.com. + +http://www.partspak.com/ProductCart...TBOARD_MOTORS)/ELECTRICAL_2_(F200TXRD_-_2005) + +Just check power going in and coming out of the relays. This will help you determine if you have a lack of power or a bad relay. If you have over 12 volts DC coming out of the relay, you may have a bad electric motor." +"LONG story short. Bought boat w/o motor, saved money, year later found motor a shop sold and installed a motor on my boat..aslo 2 new batteries, did some rewire to batteries, flush fuel tank and new fuel level sensor as well. Spent lots of money. + +Engine: 03' 250 HDPI. (the install tech left screw off fuel level sensor and torn gasket + w/ 21 year old floor hatch + raining three weeks = LOTS of water in my tank and towed in on my 2nd trip out!!! I found the leak my self, the one he oddly complained about at pick-up day after install..he noticed and told me to keep any eye out..there seems to be a hole in my tank!! LOL...too late? + +..so after getting towed in + +R&R Racor w/ bowl, Engine mounted seperator, VST screen and Med Pressure myself. It fired for a split second.. but then cranks only...STILL NO START. +If I drain the VST tank and refill with primer ball, it'll fire again for a split second, then back to cranking only. + + +I've got fuel pressure spraying out nice from Schrader, +I've got VST tank pump buzzing +I've got good fuel volume from top of VST tank when I disconnect hose from Med Pressure Filter..flow with pressure out w/ key on and at cranking. + +Seems it is immediately losing pressure after initial fire-cough, then dies again...Any ideas??","Thanks Dockside for the reply. + +I changed the Med Pressure $100. filter between the VST & HP pump. + +Just google ""fule rails pic""...didnt even think of that..so no sir, I didn't drain them of water. (I'll search web for instructions on that) + +Checked pressure only visually..I do not have a Fuel pressure gauge, but can get one. I assume, connect it at Schrader? What psi's am I look for? + +Thanks so much, I'll get started researching, and checking.","Thanks Dockside for the reply. + +I changed the Med Pressure $100. filter between the VST & HP pump. + +Just google ""fule rails pic""...didnt even think of that..so no sir, I didn't drain them of water. (I'll search web for instructions on that) + +Checked pressure only visually..I do not have a Fuel pressure gauge, but can get one. I assume, connect it at Schrader? What psi's am I look for? + +Thanks so much, I'll get started researching, and checking.",Cut the wire ties and remove the screws that hold the plastic piece that holds the fuel lines and you should be able to move everything just enough to get to the tstats. +"This should be an easy one, but I seem to be having trouble. I'm looking for a gas cap for my 3-gallon tank; it's the kind that has the fuel gauge built in. My plastic has grown old and you cannot see the gauge anymore. I'm trying to purchase just the gas cap. Any help would be appreciated!!!","If it's just all chalky from the sun to the point you can't see through it anymore, buy a headlight restoration kit at any auto parts store. The latest have the little sanding discs that will fit into a drill and you work your way to finer and finer grit disks until you get to the ball and polishing compound. You'll use it on your car headlights anyway as they get chaulky and fade so it's dual purpose. I have one I've used to clean up my car headlights, polish the plastic faces on my boats gages and instruments that are baked in the sun, and even use it to clean the plastic tops on my solar landscape lights when that plastic gets so cloudy they don't charge much any more during the day. IF you go this route... Pull the cap/gage and restore it somewhere else away from the tank.. don't need a fuel tank exploading because you're polishing the fuel gage with a drill while it's attached to the tank!","If it's just all chalky from the sun to the point you can't see through it anymore, buy a headlight restoration kit at any auto parts store. The latest have the little sanding discs that will fit into a drill and you work your way to finer and finer grit disks until you get to the ball and polishing compound. You'll use it on your car headlights anyway as they get chaulky and fade so it's dual purpose. I have one I've used to clean up my car headlights, polish the plastic faces on my boats gages and instruments that are baked in the sun, and even use it to clean the plastic tops on my solar landscape lights when that plastic gets so cloudy they don't charge much any more during the day. IF you go this route... Pull the cap/gage and restore it somewhere else away from the tank.. don't need a fuel tank exploading because you're polishing the fuel gage with a drill while it's attached to the tank!",http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/axles/?gclid=CJf1o7KxtLkCFcOe4AodkxgACg +"This should be an easy one, but I seem to be having trouble. I'm looking for a gas cap for my 3-gallon tank; it's the kind that has the fuel gauge built in. My plastic has grown old and you cannot see the gauge anymore. I'm trying to purchase just the gas cap. Any help would be appreciated!!!",great tip!,great tip!,You are hearing a click but it is not your starter.....Find and replace the slave solenoid. +"This should be an easy one, but I seem to be having trouble. I'm looking for a gas cap for my 3-gallon tank; it's the kind that has the fuel gauge built in. My plastic has grown old and you cannot see the gauge anymore. I'm trying to purchase just the gas cap. Any help would be appreciated!!!",Thanks for that tip deepsea21 but my lens is cracked. if some one else knows where I might be able to purchase just the gas cap for my 3-gallon Yamaha tank tank..HELP!!! It's the type with the fuel gauge built into it the cap.,Thanks for that tip deepsea21 but my lens is cracked. if some one else knows where I might be able to purchase just the gas cap for my 3-gallon Yamaha tank tank..HELP!!! It's the type with the fuel gauge built into it the cap.,Never has so much irrelevant twaddle been posted in reply to a simple question. +"This should be an easy one, but I seem to be having trouble. I'm looking for a gas cap for my 3-gallon tank; it's the kind that has the fuel gauge built in. My plastic has grown old and you cannot see the gauge anymore. I'm trying to purchase just the gas cap. Any help would be appreciated!!!",If it seals silicone the crack and pick it up and shake to check level. I would be surprised if you found one with the gauge on it..,If it seals silicone the crack and pick it up and shake to check level. I would be surprised if you found one with the gauge on it..,Is the temperature coming up to where it's supposed to be. I.E. Is it running to cold ?? +"i have had this problem for years. have discussed it here but long ago. motor starts on one pull idles all day, will run wide open for maybe 10 minutes or until i slow down then it dies and will not fire until it has cooled (15 minutes or more) does the same thing over again. temp is good. i changed the ignition coil (70$ wasted). now i am curious the oil sensor or switch might be opening when it gets hot. how do i bypass this switch to try this out? it has one wire on it. i disconnected it - no spark, then grounded it - no spark. any other suggestions welcomed. Outboard mechanics don't help because this cannot be repeated in a tub.","Sounds like a breakdown in the electronics when engine warms up. Start troubleshooting the electrical system,CDI.com should help along with an digital multimeter","Sounds like a breakdown in the electronics when engine warms up. Start troubleshooting the electrical system,CDI.com should help along with an digital multimeter","I reckon before you go spending money and exhausting effort by swapping engines, you should try different ways to distribute weight in the boat of your current setup. Despite the difference of manufacturer and hp between the 40 & 60, I can't imagine the difference in weight between the 2 motors is going to solve the issue (30-60lb?). + +Skiffs like yours are notorious for performing exactly as you've described...especially if the motor is not equipped with power T/T to control bow angle. I'd shift as much weight forward as you can, then re-trial. I'd also verify the motor's AV plate is inline with the bottom of the hull, or at most 1"" above or below. And you should be water testing when the engine is completely tilted down. If bow is still porpoising after shifting weight, drop engine height down on the transom (if it's not already). Also, installing a hydrofoil may help keep the bow down." +"i have had this problem for years. have discussed it here but long ago. motor starts on one pull idles all day, will run wide open for maybe 10 minutes or until i slow down then it dies and will not fire until it has cooled (15 minutes or more) does the same thing over again. temp is good. i changed the ignition coil (70$ wasted). now i am curious the oil sensor or switch might be opening when it gets hot. how do i bypass this switch to try this out? it has one wire on it. i disconnected it - no spark, then grounded it - no spark. any other suggestions welcomed. Outboard mechanics don't help because this cannot be repeated in a tub.",I'm thinking pulser coil next. ( pick up) I found one cheap but I would like to check it first. If anyone knows how? What do I need to pull the flywheel?,I'm thinking pulser coil next. ( pick up) I found one cheap but I would like to check it first. If anyone knows how? What do I need to pull the flywheel?,"The two primers are two needles that when cold are open -- they are wax seated so as the engine warms up + the two needles close, this gives you a richer fuel for start up" +"i have had this problem for years. have discussed it here but long ago. motor starts on one pull idles all day, will run wide open for maybe 10 minutes or until i slow down then it dies and will not fire until it has cooled (15 minutes or more) does the same thing over again. temp is good. i changed the ignition coil (70$ wasted). now i am curious the oil sensor or switch might be opening when it gets hot. how do i bypass this switch to try this out? it has one wire on it. i disconnected it - no spark, then grounded it - no spark. any other suggestions welcomed. Outboard mechanics don't help because this cannot be repeated in a tub.",It might be a bad spark plug...only costs a few bucks to find out!,It might be a bad spark plug...only costs a few bucks to find out!,https://www.rareelectrical.com/i-26...r-f60tjr-f60tlr-t50tlr-2006-4-stroke-f50.html +"i have had this problem for years. have discussed it here but long ago. motor starts on one pull idles all day, will run wide open for maybe 10 minutes or until i slow down then it dies and will not fire until it has cooled (15 minutes or more) does the same thing over again. temp is good. i changed the ignition coil (70$ wasted). now i am curious the oil sensor or switch might be opening when it gets hot. how do i bypass this switch to try this out? it has one wire on it. i disconnected it - no spark, then grounded it - no spark. any other suggestions welcomed. Outboard mechanics don't help because this cannot be repeated in a tub.","An impact gun to remove fly wheel nut or 1/2"" breaker bar a torque wrench to reinstall the nut","An impact gun to remove fly wheel nut or 1/2"" breaker bar a torque wrench to reinstall the nut","Modern electronics are best to turn off by the unit's power bottom, that will allow the unit to go through its shutdown proses rather than cutting the power abruptly, you can install a secondary switch to cut off power to the unit after it is off." +"i have had this problem for years. have discussed it here but long ago. motor starts on one pull idles all day, will run wide open for maybe 10 minutes or until i slow down then it dies and will not fire until it has cooled (15 minutes or more) does the same thing over again. temp is good. i changed the ignition coil (70$ wasted). now i am curious the oil sensor or switch might be opening when it gets hot. how do i bypass this switch to try this out? it has one wire on it. i disconnected it - no spark, then grounded it - no spark. any other suggestions welcomed. Outboard mechanics don't help because this cannot be repeated in a tub.",Thx guys. I'll be trying something soon. Spark plugs were checked long ago.,Thx guys. I'll be trying something soon. Spark plugs were checked long ago.,"Thanks Boscoe that seems clear but what is the red wire for from the control box. I am appalled that the main dealer did not know this. I am in the UK, I think the USA equivalent model is the T25. The FT 25 is heavier built than the standard 25hp and is 60lbs heavier and a carb rather than FI, not sure if that is good or bad!" +"Hi, folks! I'm a new guy, here, referred over from another forum. I'm hoping you can help me. + +I have twin 2007 Yamaha F225s, and one of them is running hot. I have engine data displayed on my Raymarine A68. Until recently, both engines ran approximately the same temp and fuel burn numbers. I hit a wrist-sized stick and caught both lower units. There was no physical damage done that I can see – no prop damage or external lower unit damage – not even scuffed paint. It was after the stick event, though, that I noticed that one engine now runs about 40-50 degrees hotter than the other one. + +The Raymarine displayed 230 degrees on the hot engine, while the other one still ran in the low 180’s. The Yamaha tach/monitor gauges never alarmed or put the engine into limp mode. When I back off the throttles and let the engine idle, it cools down in a couple of minutes. + +I took off the protective water intake screens on the lower unit, to inspect – no debris. + +I replaced the water pump – no change, still ran hot. + +I replaced both thermostats – no change. + +I swapped the temperature sensors between the motors, figuring if the sensor was bad, the high temp numbers would follow the sensor. They didn’t – no change. + +I flush the motors regularly, anyway, but I went ahead and flushed them with Salt Away – no change. + +After a few more trips, checking to see if any of my repairs fixed the problem, I noticed the “hot” engine was not running a little rougher. At idle, the engine runs with much more vibration and noise than the other engine. I also noticed that the “hot” engine is now burning about 2-gals more per hour than the other engine at cruising speeds (4000-4300rpm). Whatever the problem is, it seems to be getting worse. + +Time for professional help! I took the boat to a Yamaha shop, and they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. They tested the Yamaha gauge, and it does alarm as it should, so the mechanic wasn’t fully convinced that the engine was actually running hot. I asked them to do a compression check – it passed. They also did a leak-down test – it passed. The mechanic said the only thing telling me that the engine was hot, was an aftermarket display, and he wasn’t interested in chasing the problem further. + +I took it to another Yamaha mechanic. He checked the poppet valve, and said it was working correctly. He checked the spark plugs, and bumped up the idle a little bit. He said he really didn’t find anything wrong, but after adjusting the idle the engine ran smoother. + +The mechanics can’t seem to reproduce the problem in the shop, so I ran the boat again yesterday and took some video to take to the mechanic tomorrow. The one engine continues to run hot; it was up to 210 degrees in less than 5 minutes. After it gets hot, it idles rough and has a noticeable knocking sound. It sounds like it’s missing. The engine was also very slow to turn over and re-start. + +I don’t think this is a cooling system issue. The motor pees just fine, and the discharge water is not scalding hot. + +Any ideas?","This is interesting given what you have described and gone through already. + +Oil level is within the dip stick range? In the MIDDLE of the dipstick - not too low or at the top of the range right? Top of the range can be too high on many Yamahas. + +Did you replace just the water pump impeller or the entire pump assembly? - Sometimes the housing and plate the impeller spins within and on can get scored by sand, tiny pebbles etc. that make their way through the intake screens. When you replaced the impeller are you CERTAIN when you twisted it and seated it in the housing ALL vains of the impeller were twisted and seated in the correct direction? + +Perhaps you have a small blockage in the cooling system further up in the engine? Try pulling the thermostat and placing a garden hose into that port with some rags stuffed around and run the hose for a while... maybe you can back-flush some sediment that may have been forced up and clogged a part of the cooling system. + +Were your temp readings taken on the Raymarine A68 before and after the engine started acting up? These 3rd party systems can have problems with firmware reading the signals being sent by the engine. + +Lastly, you can purchase a cheap IR temp reader, run the engines and shoot the temps of areas of each engine to see if one truly is running hotter.","This is interesting given what you have described and gone through already. + +Oil level is within the dip stick range? In the MIDDLE of the dipstick - not too low or at the top of the range right? Top of the range can be too high on many Yamahas. + +Did you replace just the water pump impeller or the entire pump assembly? - Sometimes the housing and plate the impeller spins within and on can get scored by sand, tiny pebbles etc. that make their way through the intake screens. When you replaced the impeller are you CERTAIN when you twisted it and seated it in the housing ALL vains of the impeller were twisted and seated in the correct direction? + +Perhaps you have a small blockage in the cooling system further up in the engine? Try pulling the thermostat and placing a garden hose into that port with some rags stuffed around and run the hose for a while... maybe you can back-flush some sediment that may have been forced up and clogged a part of the cooling system. + +Were your temp readings taken on the Raymarine A68 before and after the engine started acting up? These 3rd party systems can have problems with firmware reading the signals being sent by the engine. + +Lastly, you can purchase a cheap IR temp reader, run the engines and shoot the temps of areas of each engine to see if one truly is running hotter.",I would be highly surprised its not the fuel pump. clear bowl is a water separator/filter it should be full and drained on occasion. +"Hi, folks! I'm a new guy, here, referred over from another forum. I'm hoping you can help me. + +I have twin 2007 Yamaha F225s, and one of them is running hot. I have engine data displayed on my Raymarine A68. Until recently, both engines ran approximately the same temp and fuel burn numbers. I hit a wrist-sized stick and caught both lower units. There was no physical damage done that I can see – no prop damage or external lower unit damage – not even scuffed paint. It was after the stick event, though, that I noticed that one engine now runs about 40-50 degrees hotter than the other one. + +The Raymarine displayed 230 degrees on the hot engine, while the other one still ran in the low 180’s. The Yamaha tach/monitor gauges never alarmed or put the engine into limp mode. When I back off the throttles and let the engine idle, it cools down in a couple of minutes. + +I took off the protective water intake screens on the lower unit, to inspect – no debris. + +I replaced the water pump – no change, still ran hot. + +I replaced both thermostats – no change. + +I swapped the temperature sensors between the motors, figuring if the sensor was bad, the high temp numbers would follow the sensor. They didn’t – no change. + +I flush the motors regularly, anyway, but I went ahead and flushed them with Salt Away – no change. + +After a few more trips, checking to see if any of my repairs fixed the problem, I noticed the “hot” engine was not running a little rougher. At idle, the engine runs with much more vibration and noise than the other engine. I also noticed that the “hot” engine is now burning about 2-gals more per hour than the other engine at cruising speeds (4000-4300rpm). Whatever the problem is, it seems to be getting worse. + +Time for professional help! I took the boat to a Yamaha shop, and they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. They tested the Yamaha gauge, and it does alarm as it should, so the mechanic wasn’t fully convinced that the engine was actually running hot. I asked them to do a compression check – it passed. They also did a leak-down test – it passed. The mechanic said the only thing telling me that the engine was hot, was an aftermarket display, and he wasn’t interested in chasing the problem further. + +I took it to another Yamaha mechanic. He checked the poppet valve, and said it was working correctly. He checked the spark plugs, and bumped up the idle a little bit. He said he really didn’t find anything wrong, but after adjusting the idle the engine ran smoother. + +The mechanics can’t seem to reproduce the problem in the shop, so I ran the boat again yesterday and took some video to take to the mechanic tomorrow. The one engine continues to run hot; it was up to 210 degrees in less than 5 minutes. After it gets hot, it idles rough and has a noticeable knocking sound. It sounds like it’s missing. The engine was also very slow to turn over and re-start. + +I don’t think this is a cooling system issue. The motor pees just fine, and the discharge water is not scalding hot. + +Any ideas?","Thank you for your help and suggestions! + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Oil level is within the dip stick range? In the MIDDLE of the dipstick - not too low or at the top of the range right? Top of the range can be too high on many Yamahas. ​ + +Click to expand... + +I noticed the high temps right after a regular oil change, so I'm confident that there are 6 qts in there. I did go and recheck the bottles, to make sure it was 4-stoke oil. After I saw the high temps, I had a moment of panic that I might have grabbed 2-stoke oil off the shelf by mistake. Nope, it was Yamalube 10W30. + +I haven't checked the oil after all this running around, but the mechanics have and didn't say anything other than it was dirty already. I ordered a couple of oil analysis kits from Blackstone Labs. I've never had an oil analysis done before, but for $28 an engine, I figured it might be a good way to get more information about what's going on with these engines. I plan to get oil from both engines analyzed, so I'll have some numbers to compare. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Did you replace just the water pump impeller or the entire pump assembly? - Sometimes the housing and plate the impeller spins within and on can get scored by sand, tiny pebbles etc. that make their way through the intake screens. When you replaced the impeller are you CERTAIN when you twisted it and seated it in the housing ALL vains of the impeller were twisted and seated in the correct direction?​ + +Click to expand... + +I bought the Yamaha water pump kits, that come with everything except the big plastic housing (that still looked to be in good shape) that covers stainless parts. I changed the plate, key, impeller, stainless housing, gasket, bolts, and o-rings. I broke the silly plastic split ring-thing, getting it apart, so I replaced it and the little stainless cap, as well. + +I did the water pumps 3 years ago, and I've done them on previous engines as well. I don't do it for a living, but I'm pretty sure I installed the parts correctly. Water peed out the indicator as it should. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Perhaps you have a small blockage in the cooling system further up in the engine? Try pulling the thermostat and placing a garden hose into that port with some rags stuffed around and run the hose for a while... maybe you can back-flush some sediment that may have been forced up and clogged a part of the cooling system.​ + +Click to expand... + +This has been suggested, but I haven't done it yet. I was even told to use some CLR tub & tile cleaner when I flush the engine. I guess that stuff does a good job of flushing out scale and build up. + +I've been dragging my feet to black flush the engine, mainly because it sounds like a PIA, but also because the sister engine has over 1800 hours on it with no issues. This one only has 700 hrs on it, and I flush them both the same. Perhaps that faulty thinking on my part, but back flushing the engines is still on my list of things to do. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Were your temp readings taken on the Raymarine A68 before and after the engine started acting up? These 3rd party systems can have problems with firmware reading the signals being sent by the engine. ​ + +Click to expand... + +I installed the Raymarine two seasons ago, and the numbers ran pretty consistent between the engines, until I noticed the high temps this summer. I updated the firmware when I first got the A68 unit, and I haven't changed anything since. + + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + +Lastly, you can purchase a cheap IR temp reader, run the engines and shoot the temps of areas of each engine to see if one truly is running hotter. + +Click to expand... + +I borrowed an IR temp reader from one of my wife's co-workers. I didn't have the time to run the boat properly, so I settled for running it on a hose with muffs. I only ran the engine for a few minutes before the Yamaha temp alarm went off. The A68 was only reading around 130 degrees, when the overheat alarms went off, so I didn't really get as good of data as I'd hoped. + +The only hot spot I saw was on the starboard camshaft pulley. The mounting bolt (shaft?) was 50-degrees hotter than anything else. This surprised me, because I expected a hot spot to be closer to the temp sensor (near the the port side thermostat). + +I would have liked to run the boat and compare temp readings from both engines, but time didn't allow for that. Unfortunately, I didn't have access to the IR temp gauge when I made my last run, either.","Thank you for your help and suggestions! + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Oil level is within the dip stick range? In the MIDDLE of the dipstick - not too low or at the top of the range right? Top of the range can be too high on many Yamahas. ​ + +Click to expand... + +I noticed the high temps right after a regular oil change, so I'm confident that there are 6 qts in there. I did go and recheck the bottles, to make sure it was 4-stoke oil. After I saw the high temps, I had a moment of panic that I might have grabbed 2-stoke oil off the shelf by mistake. Nope, it was Yamalube 10W30. + +I haven't checked the oil after all this running around, but the mechanics have and didn't say anything other than it was dirty already. I ordered a couple of oil analysis kits from Blackstone Labs. I've never had an oil analysis done before, but for $28 an engine, I figured it might be a good way to get more information about what's going on with these engines. I plan to get oil from both engines analyzed, so I'll have some numbers to compare. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Did you replace just the water pump impeller or the entire pump assembly? - Sometimes the housing and plate the impeller spins within and on can get scored by sand, tiny pebbles etc. that make their way through the intake screens. When you replaced the impeller are you CERTAIN when you twisted it and seated it in the housing ALL vains of the impeller were twisted and seated in the correct direction?​ + +Click to expand... + +I bought the Yamaha water pump kits, that come with everything except the big plastic housing (that still looked to be in good shape) that covers stainless parts. I changed the plate, key, impeller, stainless housing, gasket, bolts, and o-rings. I broke the silly plastic split ring-thing, getting it apart, so I replaced it and the little stainless cap, as well. + +I did the water pumps 3 years ago, and I've done them on previous engines as well. I don't do it for a living, but I'm pretty sure I installed the parts correctly. Water peed out the indicator as it should. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Perhaps you have a small blockage in the cooling system further up in the engine? Try pulling the thermostat and placing a garden hose into that port with some rags stuffed around and run the hose for a while... maybe you can back-flush some sediment that may have been forced up and clogged a part of the cooling system.​ + +Click to expand... + +This has been suggested, but I haven't done it yet. I was even told to use some CLR tub & tile cleaner when I flush the engine. I guess that stuff does a good job of flushing out scale and build up. + +I've been dragging my feet to black flush the engine, mainly because it sounds like a PIA, but also because the sister engine has over 1800 hours on it with no issues. This one only has 700 hrs on it, and I flush them both the same. Perhaps that faulty thinking on my part, but back flushing the engines is still on my list of things to do. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Were your temp readings taken on the Raymarine A68 before and after the engine started acting up? These 3rd party systems can have problems with firmware reading the signals being sent by the engine. ​ + +Click to expand... + +I installed the Raymarine two seasons ago, and the numbers ran pretty consistent between the engines, until I noticed the high temps this summer. I updated the firmware when I first got the A68 unit, and I haven't changed anything since. + + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + +Lastly, you can purchase a cheap IR temp reader, run the engines and shoot the temps of areas of each engine to see if one truly is running hotter. + +Click to expand... + +I borrowed an IR temp reader from one of my wife's co-workers. I didn't have the time to run the boat properly, so I settled for running it on a hose with muffs. I only ran the engine for a few minutes before the Yamaha temp alarm went off. The A68 was only reading around 130 degrees, when the overheat alarms went off, so I didn't really get as good of data as I'd hoped. + +The only hot spot I saw was on the starboard camshaft pulley. The mounting bolt (shaft?) was 50-degrees hotter than anything else. This surprised me, because I expected a hot spot to be closer to the temp sensor (near the the port side thermostat). + +I would have liked to run the boat and compare temp readings from both engines, but time didn't allow for that. Unfortunately, I didn't have access to the IR temp gauge when I made my last run, either.",I missed this... Fuel sheen in the water? Can you tell if it is forming by the engine that is misbehaving? I know it is tough to tell as only a few drops will quickly spread and you won't be able to tell where it came from. While trying to start and starting the misbehaved engine have someone standing back there watching to see if some drops of fuel fall from the base of the engine and hit the water. Pull the cowling and smell for gas fumes... Could have a small cut/worn fuel line or fuel leak inside the engine. Any fuel leak from a hose or fitting inside the engine eventually makes it's way out through the small drain holes around the base. Drip-Drip. It may start running well because the fuel pumps have delivered enough pressure and filled air voids in the fuel system created by the leak or the air has been pushed through and passed created by a slow leak after some idling time. +"Hi, folks! I'm a new guy, here, referred over from another forum. I'm hoping you can help me. + +I have twin 2007 Yamaha F225s, and one of them is running hot. I have engine data displayed on my Raymarine A68. Until recently, both engines ran approximately the same temp and fuel burn numbers. I hit a wrist-sized stick and caught both lower units. There was no physical damage done that I can see – no prop damage or external lower unit damage – not even scuffed paint. It was after the stick event, though, that I noticed that one engine now runs about 40-50 degrees hotter than the other one. + +The Raymarine displayed 230 degrees on the hot engine, while the other one still ran in the low 180’s. The Yamaha tach/monitor gauges never alarmed or put the engine into limp mode. When I back off the throttles and let the engine idle, it cools down in a couple of minutes. + +I took off the protective water intake screens on the lower unit, to inspect – no debris. + +I replaced the water pump – no change, still ran hot. + +I replaced both thermostats – no change. + +I swapped the temperature sensors between the motors, figuring if the sensor was bad, the high temp numbers would follow the sensor. They didn’t – no change. + +I flush the motors regularly, anyway, but I went ahead and flushed them with Salt Away – no change. + +After a few more trips, checking to see if any of my repairs fixed the problem, I noticed the “hot” engine was not running a little rougher. At idle, the engine runs with much more vibration and noise than the other engine. I also noticed that the “hot” engine is now burning about 2-gals more per hour than the other engine at cruising speeds (4000-4300rpm). Whatever the problem is, it seems to be getting worse. + +Time for professional help! I took the boat to a Yamaha shop, and they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. They tested the Yamaha gauge, and it does alarm as it should, so the mechanic wasn’t fully convinced that the engine was actually running hot. I asked them to do a compression check – it passed. They also did a leak-down test – it passed. The mechanic said the only thing telling me that the engine was hot, was an aftermarket display, and he wasn’t interested in chasing the problem further. + +I took it to another Yamaha mechanic. He checked the poppet valve, and said it was working correctly. He checked the spark plugs, and bumped up the idle a little bit. He said he really didn’t find anything wrong, but after adjusting the idle the engine ran smoother. + +The mechanics can’t seem to reproduce the problem in the shop, so I ran the boat again yesterday and took some video to take to the mechanic tomorrow. The one engine continues to run hot; it was up to 210 degrees in less than 5 minutes. After it gets hot, it idles rough and has a noticeable knocking sound. It sounds like it’s missing. The engine was also very slow to turn over and re-start. + +I don’t think this is a cooling system issue. The motor pees just fine, and the discharge water is not scalding hot. + +Any ideas?","The oil analysis came back. There is a lot of metal in the oil, namely aluminum, iron, copper, lead, tin, and molybdenum. I'm guessing bearings. + + +Am I wrong in thinking that it's probably a camshaft bearing issue, due to the location of the temperature sensor (on the head)? I'm not getting any oil alarms, so is it wishful thinking that the crankshaft bearings are okay?","The oil analysis came back. There is a lot of metal in the oil, namely aluminum, iron, copper, lead, tin, and molybdenum. I'm guessing bearings. + + +Am I wrong in thinking that it's probably a camshaft bearing issue, due to the location of the temperature sensor (on the head)? I'm not getting any oil alarms, so is it wishful thinking that the crankshaft bearings are okay?","Just happened to be in town today and stopped by my Yamaha dealer to ask some questions about my oil change, the Mech at the dealer told me to put in the recommended amount .8 of a litre and that's it, it does not matter if its not in the hash marks as long as you can see it on the stick, he said if you over filled or put more than .8 of a litre in the the engine to bring it up into the hash marks it will blow the oil out when your motor is in the tilt position, he had to re sticker a lot of the new kicker engines for this very reason, so I feel better now knowing that this is normal, hope this helps somebody else out. thanks" +"Hi, folks! I'm a new guy, here, referred over from another forum. I'm hoping you can help me. + +I have twin 2007 Yamaha F225s, and one of them is running hot. I have engine data displayed on my Raymarine A68. Until recently, both engines ran approximately the same temp and fuel burn numbers. I hit a wrist-sized stick and caught both lower units. There was no physical damage done that I can see – no prop damage or external lower unit damage – not even scuffed paint. It was after the stick event, though, that I noticed that one engine now runs about 40-50 degrees hotter than the other one. + +The Raymarine displayed 230 degrees on the hot engine, while the other one still ran in the low 180’s. The Yamaha tach/monitor gauges never alarmed or put the engine into limp mode. When I back off the throttles and let the engine idle, it cools down in a couple of minutes. + +I took off the protective water intake screens on the lower unit, to inspect – no debris. + +I replaced the water pump – no change, still ran hot. + +I replaced both thermostats – no change. + +I swapped the temperature sensors between the motors, figuring if the sensor was bad, the high temp numbers would follow the sensor. They didn’t – no change. + +I flush the motors regularly, anyway, but I went ahead and flushed them with Salt Away – no change. + +After a few more trips, checking to see if any of my repairs fixed the problem, I noticed the “hot” engine was not running a little rougher. At idle, the engine runs with much more vibration and noise than the other engine. I also noticed that the “hot” engine is now burning about 2-gals more per hour than the other engine at cruising speeds (4000-4300rpm). Whatever the problem is, it seems to be getting worse. + +Time for professional help! I took the boat to a Yamaha shop, and they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. They tested the Yamaha gauge, and it does alarm as it should, so the mechanic wasn’t fully convinced that the engine was actually running hot. I asked them to do a compression check – it passed. They also did a leak-down test – it passed. The mechanic said the only thing telling me that the engine was hot, was an aftermarket display, and he wasn’t interested in chasing the problem further. + +I took it to another Yamaha mechanic. He checked the poppet valve, and said it was working correctly. He checked the spark plugs, and bumped up the idle a little bit. He said he really didn’t find anything wrong, but after adjusting the idle the engine ran smoother. + +The mechanics can’t seem to reproduce the problem in the shop, so I ran the boat again yesterday and took some video to take to the mechanic tomorrow. The one engine continues to run hot; it was up to 210 degrees in less than 5 minutes. After it gets hot, it idles rough and has a noticeable knocking sound. It sounds like it’s missing. The engine was also very slow to turn over and re-start. + +I don’t think this is a cooling system issue. The motor pees just fine, and the discharge water is not scalding hot. + +Any ideas?","?-------How much is "" a lot of metal "" in the oil.-------Any values in "" parts / million "" on the report ?","?-------How much is "" a lot of metal "" in the oil.-------Any values in "" parts / million "" on the report ?","DangarStu said: + + + + The impeller blades are always curved, that is an essential part of their operation. So when you put the house up the pipe that connects to the water pump, did water come out the tell tale then? Does the impeller feel like it is spinning on the shaft or locked solidly (as it should be)? Have you tried it in a tub of water? Sometimes ear muffs can be slightly out of position and not feel enough water in. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Yeah, I put the hose up to the tell tale and had water coming through that pipe to the water pump. Today I took the plate off on the back of the engine and cleaned the thermostat and that housing but that didnt seem to be the issue. I did run it in a tub of water today instead of ear muffs to see if that could have been it. Maybe it is the impeller or perhaps I didn't connect that tube into the water pump housing putting it back together. I'll take it apart again and see if I can get it. Today it was just hot steam coming out of the tell tale after a few minutes of running... frustrating. Plus I definitely screwed up the F/N/R shifting settings on the engine." +"Hi, folks! I'm a new guy, here, referred over from another forum. I'm hoping you can help me. + +I have twin 2007 Yamaha F225s, and one of them is running hot. I have engine data displayed on my Raymarine A68. Until recently, both engines ran approximately the same temp and fuel burn numbers. I hit a wrist-sized stick and caught both lower units. There was no physical damage done that I can see – no prop damage or external lower unit damage – not even scuffed paint. It was after the stick event, though, that I noticed that one engine now runs about 40-50 degrees hotter than the other one. + +The Raymarine displayed 230 degrees on the hot engine, while the other one still ran in the low 180’s. The Yamaha tach/monitor gauges never alarmed or put the engine into limp mode. When I back off the throttles and let the engine idle, it cools down in a couple of minutes. + +I took off the protective water intake screens on the lower unit, to inspect – no debris. + +I replaced the water pump – no change, still ran hot. + +I replaced both thermostats – no change. + +I swapped the temperature sensors between the motors, figuring if the sensor was bad, the high temp numbers would follow the sensor. They didn’t – no change. + +I flush the motors regularly, anyway, but I went ahead and flushed them with Salt Away – no change. + +After a few more trips, checking to see if any of my repairs fixed the problem, I noticed the “hot” engine was not running a little rougher. At idle, the engine runs with much more vibration and noise than the other engine. I also noticed that the “hot” engine is now burning about 2-gals more per hour than the other engine at cruising speeds (4000-4300rpm). Whatever the problem is, it seems to be getting worse. + +Time for professional help! I took the boat to a Yamaha shop, and they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. They tested the Yamaha gauge, and it does alarm as it should, so the mechanic wasn’t fully convinced that the engine was actually running hot. I asked them to do a compression check – it passed. They also did a leak-down test – it passed. The mechanic said the only thing telling me that the engine was hot, was an aftermarket display, and he wasn’t interested in chasing the problem further. + +I took it to another Yamaha mechanic. He checked the poppet valve, and said it was working correctly. He checked the spark plugs, and bumped up the idle a little bit. He said he really didn’t find anything wrong, but after adjusting the idle the engine ran smoother. + +The mechanics can’t seem to reproduce the problem in the shop, so I ran the boat again yesterday and took some video to take to the mechanic tomorrow. The one engine continues to run hot; it was up to 210 degrees in less than 5 minutes. After it gets hot, it idles rough and has a noticeable knocking sound. It sounds like it’s missing. The engine was also very slow to turn over and re-start. + +I don’t think this is a cooling system issue. The motor pees just fine, and the discharge water is not scalding hot. + +Any ideas?","I don't know the units, but here are the test result numbers and average values given to me on the report. The average, or expected values, are in parenthesis. + +Aluminum 170 (5) +Iron 210 (14) +Copper 412 (4) +Lead 467 (2) +Tin 46 (1) +Molybdenum 220 (146) +Calcium 2173 (1788) +Silicon 21 (11)","I don't know the units, but here are the test result numbers and average values given to me on the report. The average, or expected values, are in parenthesis. + +Aluminum 170 (5) +Iron 210 (14) +Copper 412 (4) +Lead 467 (2) +Tin 46 (1) +Molybdenum 220 (146) +Calcium 2173 (1788) +Silicon 21 (11)",Nope. already ordered genuine OEM Evinrude part. I want it to last more than a day. +"Hi, folks! I'm a new guy, here, referred over from another forum. I'm hoping you can help me. + +I have twin 2007 Yamaha F225s, and one of them is running hot. I have engine data displayed on my Raymarine A68. Until recently, both engines ran approximately the same temp and fuel burn numbers. I hit a wrist-sized stick and caught both lower units. There was no physical damage done that I can see – no prop damage or external lower unit damage – not even scuffed paint. It was after the stick event, though, that I noticed that one engine now runs about 40-50 degrees hotter than the other one. + +The Raymarine displayed 230 degrees on the hot engine, while the other one still ran in the low 180’s. The Yamaha tach/monitor gauges never alarmed or put the engine into limp mode. When I back off the throttles and let the engine idle, it cools down in a couple of minutes. + +I took off the protective water intake screens on the lower unit, to inspect – no debris. + +I replaced the water pump – no change, still ran hot. + +I replaced both thermostats – no change. + +I swapped the temperature sensors between the motors, figuring if the sensor was bad, the high temp numbers would follow the sensor. They didn’t – no change. + +I flush the motors regularly, anyway, but I went ahead and flushed them with Salt Away – no change. + +After a few more trips, checking to see if any of my repairs fixed the problem, I noticed the “hot” engine was not running a little rougher. At idle, the engine runs with much more vibration and noise than the other engine. I also noticed that the “hot” engine is now burning about 2-gals more per hour than the other engine at cruising speeds (4000-4300rpm). Whatever the problem is, it seems to be getting worse. + +Time for professional help! I took the boat to a Yamaha shop, and they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. They tested the Yamaha gauge, and it does alarm as it should, so the mechanic wasn’t fully convinced that the engine was actually running hot. I asked them to do a compression check – it passed. They also did a leak-down test – it passed. The mechanic said the only thing telling me that the engine was hot, was an aftermarket display, and he wasn’t interested in chasing the problem further. + +I took it to another Yamaha mechanic. He checked the poppet valve, and said it was working correctly. He checked the spark plugs, and bumped up the idle a little bit. He said he really didn’t find anything wrong, but after adjusting the idle the engine ran smoother. + +The mechanics can’t seem to reproduce the problem in the shop, so I ran the boat again yesterday and took some video to take to the mechanic tomorrow. The one engine continues to run hot; it was up to 210 degrees in less than 5 minutes. After it gets hot, it idles rough and has a noticeable knocking sound. It sounds like it’s missing. The engine was also very slow to turn over and re-start. + +I don’t think this is a cooling system issue. The motor pees just fine, and the discharge water is not scalding hot. + +Any ideas?","Have you pulled plugs lately,to see if one is steam cleaned, Just because it passed compression test does't mean there's no water intrusion.","Have you pulled plugs lately,to see if one is steam cleaned, Just because it passed compression test does't mean there's no water intrusion.","chawk_man said: + + + + Yep - up here in my neck of the woods in rural Eastern Virginia (Chesapeake and lower Potomac) there are a lot of boats, but no decent fiberglass repair shops except the auto body shops. Just make sure they have experience in doing those types of repairs, and that the problem is cosmetic, not structural. + +Click to expand... + + +a great job +not only did they repair/patch the outside, they also repaired/patched the insides as well. +thanks for the reply" +"Hi, folks! I'm a new guy, here, referred over from another forum. I'm hoping you can help me. + +I have twin 2007 Yamaha F225s, and one of them is running hot. I have engine data displayed on my Raymarine A68. Until recently, both engines ran approximately the same temp and fuel burn numbers. I hit a wrist-sized stick and caught both lower units. There was no physical damage done that I can see – no prop damage or external lower unit damage – not even scuffed paint. It was after the stick event, though, that I noticed that one engine now runs about 40-50 degrees hotter than the other one. + +The Raymarine displayed 230 degrees on the hot engine, while the other one still ran in the low 180’s. The Yamaha tach/monitor gauges never alarmed or put the engine into limp mode. When I back off the throttles and let the engine idle, it cools down in a couple of minutes. + +I took off the protective water intake screens on the lower unit, to inspect – no debris. + +I replaced the water pump – no change, still ran hot. + +I replaced both thermostats – no change. + +I swapped the temperature sensors between the motors, figuring if the sensor was bad, the high temp numbers would follow the sensor. They didn’t – no change. + +I flush the motors regularly, anyway, but I went ahead and flushed them with Salt Away – no change. + +After a few more trips, checking to see if any of my repairs fixed the problem, I noticed the “hot” engine was not running a little rougher. At idle, the engine runs with much more vibration and noise than the other engine. I also noticed that the “hot” engine is now burning about 2-gals more per hour than the other engine at cruising speeds (4000-4300rpm). Whatever the problem is, it seems to be getting worse. + +Time for professional help! I took the boat to a Yamaha shop, and they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. They tested the Yamaha gauge, and it does alarm as it should, so the mechanic wasn’t fully convinced that the engine was actually running hot. I asked them to do a compression check – it passed. They also did a leak-down test – it passed. The mechanic said the only thing telling me that the engine was hot, was an aftermarket display, and he wasn’t interested in chasing the problem further. + +I took it to another Yamaha mechanic. He checked the poppet valve, and said it was working correctly. He checked the spark plugs, and bumped up the idle a little bit. He said he really didn’t find anything wrong, but after adjusting the idle the engine ran smoother. + +The mechanics can’t seem to reproduce the problem in the shop, so I ran the boat again yesterday and took some video to take to the mechanic tomorrow. The one engine continues to run hot; it was up to 210 degrees in less than 5 minutes. After it gets hot, it idles rough and has a noticeable knocking sound. It sounds like it’s missing. The engine was also very slow to turn over and re-start. + +I don’t think this is a cooling system issue. The motor pees just fine, and the discharge water is not scalding hot. + +Any ideas?","The plugs look good, and both mechanics said that was the first thing they checked.","The plugs look good, and both mechanics said that was the first thing they checked.","Do you experience same issue when using PTT switch located on engine? If so I'd say it's an voltz/ground issue. If the engine side PTT switch works without fail, but the remote control PTT switch has issues, then I'd say the contact points of the control switch needs to be removed and cleaned." +"Yamaha F90 +I hit a shoal and bent the drive shaft, Marina repaired and now the boat RPM is much higher than normal! ie. full throttle/speed 6400 rpm now aprox 7500rpm. + +My thoughts and tests: +- The New prop has the same stamp for size/pitch as the old one (could prop be stamped wrong?) +- hooked up another Tach and it showed RPM's match to eliminate faulty tach. +- could reassembly by mechanic accidentally put the wrong gears into the lower unit to throw the gear ratio off? + +would anyone else have any suggestions on what to check? The marina has not given me any suggestions or options. + +Thank you!","First off don't run7500rpms you will have pistons flying through the air , $$$$ Could be either wrong prop.or wrong gears. Was anything under cowl messed with?","First off don't run7500rpms you will have pistons flying through the air , $$$$ Could be either wrong prop.or wrong gears. Was anything under cowl messed with?","a238killfish said: + + + + friend has 06 tlr60. plenty h20 out the pee hole but water never warms up. idles for about 3 minutes then alarm goes off. block plenty hot. thermostat? + +Click to expand... + + +The good water flow from the tell tale only indicates your water pump is functioning. It's good flow does not indicate water is circulating through the cooling passages. 3min idle followed by high temp alarm is a testament to this. The stats only open when the engine warm. When the engine needs more cool water in order to maintain normal op temp, stats open at a preset temp. + +Normally it will take a idling cold engine about 10min to warm. Could be shorter or longer, depending on ambient air temp. You can pull the stats and check their function. If your engines stat housing is vertical (stats are seated up/down), remove stats and start engine while flushing on muffs. If you're still getting the high temp alarm, then the cooling passages have corroded to the point of failure. Heads need to be pulled to scrape out all the built up corrosion. + +Or you can try running Salt X through the muff flush, but this is more of a preventative maintenance so I doubt it will work." +"Yamaha F90 +I hit a shoal and bent the drive shaft, Marina repaired and now the boat RPM is much higher than normal! ie. full throttle/speed 6400 rpm now aprox 7500rpm. + +My thoughts and tests: +- The New prop has the same stamp for size/pitch as the old one (could prop be stamped wrong?) +- hooked up another Tach and it showed RPM's match to eliminate faulty tach. +- could reassembly by mechanic accidentally put the wrong gears into the lower unit to throw the gear ratio off? + +would anyone else have any suggestions on what to check? The marina has not given me any suggestions or options. + +Thank you!","I went out after the repair and noticed quickly that it was over revving... not running it like that, that was my indicator that something is not right... +-As far as I know there there was nothing messed with under the cowl... what there could be changed that I can check that would bring the RPM up? +-The Prop has the identical specs labeled on the previous prop. +-While changing the prop shaft, do they take it apart enough to remove the drive gears... could a different gear size fit where it would change my gear ratio? that is the only thing that I can make sense of... it's a big job just to check. + +THanks","I went out after the repair and noticed quickly that it was over revving... not running it like that, that was my indicator that something is not right... +-As far as I know there there was nothing messed with under the cowl... what there could be changed that I can check that would bring the RPM up? +-The Prop has the identical specs labeled on the previous prop. +-While changing the prop shaft, do they take it apart enough to remove the drive gears... could a different gear size fit where it would change my gear ratio? that is the only thing that I can make sense of... it's a big job just to check. + +THanks","I would install a voltage sensing relay and forget about the battery switch. It won't do what you are hoping it will. +Only put the starter wire on the start battery. All other power comes from battery 2...trim, bilge, accessories, etc. The reason for this of course is that all those other things become parasites on the battery that you want to be dead sure is constantly fully charged and able to start the engine. Put all the secondary draw on the second battery. Depending on your draw, the second battery could be one, two or more connected in parallel making one big array. +The voltage sensing relay will always charge the start battery. Once it is full, the extra voltage is channelled over to the storage batteries to charge them up. With this setup, you needn't manually switch batteries or worry if the starting battery has enough juice. +There are good books on all this, along with some really informative articles and videos on the web. + +I use a Yandina Combiner 200 (https://www.yandina.com/c200Info.htm) which can parallel both batteries in an emergency." +"Yamaha F90 +I hit a shoal and bent the drive shaft, Marina repaired and now the boat RPM is much higher than normal! ie. full throttle/speed 6400 rpm now aprox 7500rpm. + +My thoughts and tests: +- The New prop has the same stamp for size/pitch as the old one (could prop be stamped wrong?) +- hooked up another Tach and it showed RPM's match to eliminate faulty tach. +- could reassembly by mechanic accidentally put the wrong gears into the lower unit to throw the gear ratio off? + +would anyone else have any suggestions on what to check? The marina has not given me any suggestions or options. + +Thank you!",Hard to put different gears in there.----------Run back to the shop that did the work and ask for explanation on this.,Hard to put different gears in there.----------Run back to the shop that did the work and ask for explanation on this.,"Also after the engine stalls out, I need to re-prime in order to restart the engine." +"Yamaha F90 +I hit a shoal and bent the drive shaft, Marina repaired and now the boat RPM is much higher than normal! ie. full throttle/speed 6400 rpm now aprox 7500rpm. + +My thoughts and tests: +- The New prop has the same stamp for size/pitch as the old one (could prop be stamped wrong?) +- hooked up another Tach and it showed RPM's match to eliminate faulty tach. +- could reassembly by mechanic accidentally put the wrong gears into the lower unit to throw the gear ratio off? + +would anyone else have any suggestions on what to check? The marina has not given me any suggestions or options. + +Thank you!","Unlikely to be gears, but easy to check. Remove the spark plugs, put the engine into fwd gear and rotate the flywheel by hand whilst watching the prop. See how many turns of the flywheel are required for one turn of the prop after putting marks on both so you can measure the part turns (if any). That will tell you the gear ratio. Other way is to drop the lower unit and rotate the drive shaft by hand whilst in fwd gear. + +It is much more likely to be the prop. Is the prop the same brand and model as previous? If it is a different brand or model you are probably just dealing with a prop that has more slip on your setup.","Unlikely to be gears, but easy to check. Remove the spark plugs, put the engine into fwd gear and rotate the flywheel by hand whilst watching the prop. See how many turns of the flywheel are required for one turn of the prop after putting marks on both so you can measure the part turns (if any). That will tell you the gear ratio. Other way is to drop the lower unit and rotate the drive shaft by hand whilst in fwd gear. + +It is much more likely to be the prop. Is the prop the same brand and model as previous? If it is a different brand or model you are probably just dealing with a prop that has more slip on your setup.","Ayuh,..... A bilge pump will be in the aft area of the bilge, where water collects,...... + +If you haven't seen it, there probably isn't one there,..... + +Just add one,....." +"I am looking at the outboard motor market in the 40 hp new motors. +can any one give me any feedback poss. or neg. on ether of these two models. +I am looking at the tohatsu mfs40aetl and the Yamaha f40la. +right now I am leaning towards the Yamaha . +any feed back would be appreciated.",I vote for the Tohatsu.,I vote for the Tohatsu.,"Additionally, especially on a 3-4-6 cylinder 2-stroke... You have to keep those carbs clean all the time. You may not notice one cylinder running lean due one of those carbs being 1/2 clogged. You can end up frying a cylinder, cooking your rings, and needing a full re-boring of the block. Been there, done that, and learned the hard way. I moved on to 4 strokes as they are more tollerant of neglect than 2 stroke that doesn't get run all the time. A 2 stroke's worst enemy is lack of use." +"I am looking at the outboard motor market in the 40 hp new motors. +can any one give me any feedback poss. or neg. on ether of these two models. +I am looking at the tohatsu mfs40aetl and the Yamaha f40la. +right now I am leaning towards the Yamaha . +any feed back would be appreciated.","I finally went with the yamaha 40 . +It was a tough decision could have saved close to 2 thousand +Dollars with the tohatsu just didn't know history of the tohatsu.","I finally went with the yamaha 40 . +It was a tough decision could have saved close to 2 thousand +Dollars with the tohatsu just didn't know history of the tohatsu.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Did you put it in backwards? + +Click to expand... + + +Checked that as soon as I got home today. Phew! It was installed correctly." +"I am looking at the outboard motor market in the 40 hp new motors. +can any one give me any feedback poss. or neg. on ether of these two models. +I am looking at the tohatsu mfs40aetl and the Yamaha f40la. +right now I am leaning towards the Yamaha . +any feed back would be appreciated.",To each his own.,To each his own.,"Nhodges1 said: + + + + Hi, Can someone give me a drawing/ wiring diagram of a twin engine, dual Batt and switch, somebody rewired tis thing and its all screwed up, currently has three Batts. +Thanks in advance + +Click to expand... + + +Here is a very simple but effective way to cable your batteries to your MBSS (main battery selector switch). +Minus the Blue Sea 7622 ML ACR, it requires manual battery management.... yet it is simple to understand and manage your battery banks with. + +This is a schematic for dual stations. +If single station boat, pay no attention to the upper station portion." +"hello guys + +I have a 1995 Yamaha 2 stroke . the problem i am having is when i am trolling.... I am using the motor as a kicker. Anyways.. when i am set the speed on it, the throttle handle always goes back to the slowest position therefore i lose the target speed and am going way to slow... I know its nothing to do with the idle or anything like that... but something with the actual handle? make sense? + +here are some pics of it i am wondering if its the black piece in the middle + +thanks in advance for all your help","Your throttle friction is set too low. +That's the ""black piece in the middle"". +Tighten that bolt a little bit at a time....until the throttle stays put.","Your throttle friction is set too low. +That's the ""black piece in the middle"". +Tighten that bolt a little bit at a time....until the throttle stays put.","New gauges are fine, but if you want to do it right and save yourself a lot of future problems, just rewire the whole forward section, starting from the wiring harness forward. I know it's a PITA, because I've done it several times on old boats. But when you're done, you'll have confidence that things will work properly. Use top notch marine grade (tinned) stranded wire. Seal every connection with self-sealing connectors, or heat shrink tubes. I also use liquid electrical tape on all terminal connections. Use string tags to identify each wire and make liberal use wire guides." +"Hello all, + +I have attached a couple of pictures of the flywheel from my 1988 Yamaha 20 LG. In the pictures you can see the trigger coil magnets on the inner shaft, they are two small round discs about the size of a dime. Only one of these discs is actually magnetic now. I have been having trouble with #2 cylinder misfiring and wonder if this is cause. + +Has anybody seen this before? + +How can I repair this flywheel? + +ANY help would be appreciated.",Some magnets can be epoxied back on,Some magnets can be epoxied back on,Let's start with model and year +"I have a 2011 yamaha 40hp. It's hand tiller and fuel injected. It has started giving me problems with bogging down or starving for fuel. When I first start it and leave the ramp it runs fine. Then I'll stop and fish for awhile and when I start the motor to move it won't run right. I assume it's not getting enough fuel. It doesn't cut off it just bogs down. I cut it off and try pumping the primer bulb (mostly because I don't know what else to do) and eventually it clears up and runs fine. It has been an intermittent problem all summer but lately it seems worse. I replaced the fuel line and that didn't clear it up. + +The fuel line I bought was 3/8 because I thought that's what it was and all the ones I saw where 3/8. When I went to replace I realized that the old one was 5/16. Does the diameter of the fuel line matter? + +Any ideas? Thanks Jason","Fuel pump checked? Filters checked? Possible air leak somewhere in fuel system. Fuel/water separator dumped,inspected,refilled and reinstalled.","Fuel pump checked? Filters checked? Possible air leak somewhere in fuel system. Fuel/water separator dumped,inspected,refilled and reinstalled.","Thank you for your help and suggestions! + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Oil level is within the dip stick range? In the MIDDLE of the dipstick - not too low or at the top of the range right? Top of the range can be too high on many Yamahas. ​ + +Click to expand... + +I noticed the high temps right after a regular oil change, so I'm confident that there are 6 qts in there. I did go and recheck the bottles, to make sure it was 4-stoke oil. After I saw the high temps, I had a moment of panic that I might have grabbed 2-stoke oil off the shelf by mistake. Nope, it was Yamalube 10W30. + +I haven't checked the oil after all this running around, but the mechanics have and didn't say anything other than it was dirty already. I ordered a couple of oil analysis kits from Blackstone Labs. I've never had an oil analysis done before, but for $28 an engine, I figured it might be a good way to get more information about what's going on with these engines. I plan to get oil from both engines analyzed, so I'll have some numbers to compare. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Did you replace just the water pump impeller or the entire pump assembly? - Sometimes the housing and plate the impeller spins within and on can get scored by sand, tiny pebbles etc. that make their way through the intake screens. When you replaced the impeller are you CERTAIN when you twisted it and seated it in the housing ALL vains of the impeller were twisted and seated in the correct direction?​ + +Click to expand... + +I bought the Yamaha water pump kits, that come with everything except the big plastic housing (that still looked to be in good shape) that covers stainless parts. I changed the plate, key, impeller, stainless housing, gasket, bolts, and o-rings. I broke the silly plastic split ring-thing, getting it apart, so I replaced it and the little stainless cap, as well. + +I did the water pumps 3 years ago, and I've done them on previous engines as well. I don't do it for a living, but I'm pretty sure I installed the parts correctly. Water peed out the indicator as it should. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Perhaps you have a small blockage in the cooling system further up in the engine? Try pulling the thermostat and placing a garden hose into that port with some rags stuffed around and run the hose for a while... maybe you can back-flush some sediment that may have been forced up and clogged a part of the cooling system.​ + +Click to expand... + +This has been suggested, but I haven't done it yet. I was even told to use some CLR tub & tile cleaner when I flush the engine. I guess that stuff does a good job of flushing out scale and build up. + +I've been dragging my feet to black flush the engine, mainly because it sounds like a PIA, but also because the sister engine has over 1800 hours on it with no issues. This one only has 700 hrs on it, and I flush them both the same. Perhaps that faulty thinking on my part, but back flushing the engines is still on my list of things to do. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Were your temp readings taken on the Raymarine A68 before and after the engine started acting up? These 3rd party systems can have problems with firmware reading the signals being sent by the engine. ​ + +Click to expand... + +I installed the Raymarine two seasons ago, and the numbers ran pretty consistent between the engines, until I noticed the high temps this summer. I updated the firmware when I first got the A68 unit, and I haven't changed anything since. + + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + +Lastly, you can purchase a cheap IR temp reader, run the engines and shoot the temps of areas of each engine to see if one truly is running hotter. + +Click to expand... + +I borrowed an IR temp reader from one of my wife's co-workers. I didn't have the time to run the boat properly, so I settled for running it on a hose with muffs. I only ran the engine for a few minutes before the Yamaha temp alarm went off. The A68 was only reading around 130 degrees, when the overheat alarms went off, so I didn't really get as good of data as I'd hoped. + +The only hot spot I saw was on the starboard camshaft pulley. The mounting bolt (shaft?) was 50-degrees hotter than anything else. This surprised me, because I expected a hot spot to be closer to the temp sensor (near the the port side thermostat). + +I would have liked to run the boat and compare temp readings from both engines, but time didn't allow for that. Unfortunately, I didn't have access to the IR temp gauge when I made my last run, either." +"I have a 2011 yamaha 40hp. It's hand tiller and fuel injected. It has started giving me problems with bogging down or starving for fuel. When I first start it and leave the ramp it runs fine. Then I'll stop and fish for awhile and when I start the motor to move it won't run right. I assume it's not getting enough fuel. It doesn't cut off it just bogs down. I cut it off and try pumping the primer bulb (mostly because I don't know what else to do) and eventually it clears up and runs fine. It has been an intermittent problem all summer but lately it seems worse. I replaced the fuel line and that didn't clear it up. + +The fuel line I bought was 3/8 because I thought that's what it was and all the ones I saw where 3/8. When I went to replace I realized that the old one was 5/16. Does the diameter of the fuel line matter? + +Any ideas? Thanks Jason","How would I go about checking the fuel pump? + +I pulled and looked at the initial small cartridge filter today and it looked fine to me. Is that a float in the bottom of the bowl? If so what is its purpose? When I poured some fuel in the bowl it didn't float but it slides freely when I turn it upside down. + +Are there any other filters? + +What should I be looking for in/on the water separator besides a bad gasket or water in the fuel? Should I fill it with fuel before reinstalling? I've always just filled it with the primer bulb. + +Thanks","How would I go about checking the fuel pump? + +I pulled and looked at the initial small cartridge filter today and it looked fine to me. Is that a float in the bottom of the bowl? If so what is its purpose? When I poured some fuel in the bowl it didn't float but it slides freely when I turn it upside down. + +Are there any other filters? + +What should I be looking for in/on the water separator besides a bad gasket or water in the fuel? Should I fill it with fuel before reinstalling? I've always just filled it with the primer bulb. + +Thanks","Sounds too slow. could be a lot of things though, so more info required. Does the boat live in the water or on a trailer?" +"We have a 7.5m fibreglass fishing boat with a pair of F50CET (high-thrust) outboards. The motors are going well over 6,200 revs at close to WOT (haven't pushed them all the way) and the boat is barely on the plane at around 18kts. It will do 15kts on just one at 5,800 with no airing/cavitation. Been looking at the Yamaha prop-calc page and it looks like we should up the pitch to 13 or 14. Can't buy them where we are so I'm looking to buy online. But I can't find anywhere (Yamaha site, Owner Manual or Service Manual) what sort of prop we should buy: 14 or 15 spline? Thru prop exhaust? Hate to buy one and then not be able to install it! +Can anyone advise?",Correction - In the text it should read FT50CET not F50CET,Correction - In the text it should read FT50CET not F50CET,The heads are warped ! ----Guaranteed.------They all warp with time.-----It is the nature of aluminum castings used in outboard motors. +"We have a 7.5m fibreglass fishing boat with a pair of F50CET (high-thrust) outboards. The motors are going well over 6,200 revs at close to WOT (haven't pushed them all the way) and the boat is barely on the plane at around 18kts. It will do 15kts on just one at 5,800 with no airing/cavitation. Been looking at the Yamaha prop-calc page and it looks like we should up the pitch to 13 or 14. Can't buy them where we are so I'm looking to buy online. But I can't find anywhere (Yamaha site, Owner Manual or Service Manual) what sort of prop we should buy: 14 or 15 spline? Thru prop exhaust? Hate to buy one and then not be able to install it! +Can anyone advise?","I just bought one from here. They were very knowledgeable about what i needed. In fact the dealer told me one spline count and they told me another. I questioned them and they assured me if wrong they would pay the shipping both ways. I wrote the person't name down and they were in fact correct. + +http://www.firstchoicemarine.com/#_","I just bought one from here. They were very knowledgeable about what i needed. In fact the dealer told me one spline count and they told me another. I questioned them and they assured me if wrong they would pay the shipping both ways. I wrote the person't name down and they were in fact correct. + +http://www.firstchoicemarine.com/#_","It wouldn't surprise me. I ran a Suzuki 75 2-stroke for several years on my prior boat and the only difference between it and the 85 was the carbs. However, the cost to replace the 3 carbs with the 85HP versions wasn't worth it when it came to $'s per HP gained. I've also no idea if the ECU in that engine would have needed to swapped out or re-flashed to work with the new carbs. Maybe someone else here can comment." +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Check all plugs are clean and if not, clean them up. + +Check 2-stroke oil level in the oil tank. Low oil will cause the rev limiter to kick in as will a failure in the oil level sensor. + +Sounds like a fuel flow issue to me... + +Will pumping the fuel bulb allow the engine to rev higher when in gear and under load? If so, you prob have leaks in the fuel lines (sucking air) or a low pressure fuel pump going bad. Check and tighten all connections and fittings and check diaphrams in the LP fuel pumps for any holes, tears, etc. + +Pumping fuel via the bulb can also sometimes reveal clogged filters but not always (won't reveal a clogged micro filter screen in the VST tank on the high pressure fuel pump which is THE #1 CAUSE OF MANY problems including yours. If you are running ethanol blended gas sold at 99% of regular gas stations that is prob your problem). You can try to clean that little filter blasting carb cleaner through it but if I'm going to wrench my way in there to get to it I always have a new one on hand and just replace it and save the old one for another time. It can look clean but if you can't see your finger pretty clearly through it is prob clogged. If you're going to replace the VST filter REPLACE THE LITTLE FUEL FILTER IN THE CLEAR BOWL UNDER THE COWLING AT THE SAME TIME. That little yellow filter if not replaced regularily can start to shed tiny fibers that end up clogging the VST filter. + +Lastly, check neutral safety switch in the throttle assy which is probably not the problem but if the engine ""thinks"" it is in neutral it won't allow it to run past about 2,500 RPM in gear or, as you've learned, in neutral. You'll never get it to rev higher than the 2500- 3000 RPM you mentioned while in neutral and advancing further can stall the engine as the carbs open wider and the fuel air mix becomes too lean to combust. + +When you get up and running again... Never run 10% ethanol blended gas in it again if you have a marina or a station close to you that sells 100% non-ethanol gas. I gladly pay the premium for 100% gas and add Marine Green Sta-bil fuel stabilizer (not the red that contains ethanol) with every fill-up - not just prior to storage. For the few extra bucks 100% gas costs and Marine Sta-bil costs I now enjoy my boat instead of wrenching on my engine all the time.","Check all plugs are clean and if not, clean them up. + +Check 2-stroke oil level in the oil tank. Low oil will cause the rev limiter to kick in as will a failure in the oil level sensor. + +Sounds like a fuel flow issue to me... + +Will pumping the fuel bulb allow the engine to rev higher when in gear and under load? If so, you prob have leaks in the fuel lines (sucking air) or a low pressure fuel pump going bad. Check and tighten all connections and fittings and check diaphrams in the LP fuel pumps for any holes, tears, etc. + +Pumping fuel via the bulb can also sometimes reveal clogged filters but not always (won't reveal a clogged micro filter screen in the VST tank on the high pressure fuel pump which is THE #1 CAUSE OF MANY problems including yours. If you are running ethanol blended gas sold at 99% of regular gas stations that is prob your problem). You can try to clean that little filter blasting carb cleaner through it but if I'm going to wrench my way in there to get to it I always have a new one on hand and just replace it and save the old one for another time. It can look clean but if you can't see your finger pretty clearly through it is prob clogged. If you're going to replace the VST filter REPLACE THE LITTLE FUEL FILTER IN THE CLEAR BOWL UNDER THE COWLING AT THE SAME TIME. That little yellow filter if not replaced regularily can start to shed tiny fibers that end up clogging the VST filter. + +Lastly, check neutral safety switch in the throttle assy which is probably not the problem but if the engine ""thinks"" it is in neutral it won't allow it to run past about 2,500 RPM in gear or, as you've learned, in neutral. You'll never get it to rev higher than the 2500- 3000 RPM you mentioned while in neutral and advancing further can stall the engine as the carbs open wider and the fuel air mix becomes too lean to combust. + +When you get up and running again... Never run 10% ethanol blended gas in it again if you have a marina or a station close to you that sells 100% non-ethanol gas. I gladly pay the premium for 100% gas and add Marine Green Sta-bil fuel stabilizer (not the red that contains ethanol) with every fill-up - not just prior to storage. For the few extra bucks 100% gas costs and Marine Sta-bil costs I now enjoy my boat instead of wrenching on my engine all the time.","Ayuh,.... There's No grounds anywhere near that battery switch, only the positive cables,..... + +The boat's Grounds should all be common,...... +Each battery to the motor, which makes the motor's block the common Ground,..... +If more than 1 motor, there should be Ground straps from block to block,......" +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Actually the shift switch is on the engine. The neutral safety switch is in the control box. + +If the ecm does not see the engine started in neutral and shifted into gear while the engine is running it will limit the rpms to around 3000.","Actually the shift switch is on the engine. The neutral safety switch is in the control box. + +If the ecm does not see the engine started in neutral and shifted into gear while the engine is running it will limit the rpms to around 3000.","Hi mate, it could be a few things. Here is a video I made a while ago that might help you diagnose the problem: https://youtu.be/e1h-blqDm4U + +Stu" +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Thanks deepsea21 for all the info . I checked the fuel bulb and replaced the main filters like you said but no help..Thinking about how it cuts out ( shuts down ) when I advance out of gear made me think it was something else. So I looked more into the shift position switch. Also thanks Chris for the heads up where it was. To make a long story short I went ahead and changed it . It now starts up and when advanced the throttle out of gear it does not shut down. Haven't checked it out on open water yet but I'm sure it will check out. Yea I know we all heard that before . I will post how it will check out tomorrow ,going off shore for some tuna.","Thanks deepsea21 for all the info . I checked the fuel bulb and replaced the main filters like you said but no help..Thinking about how it cuts out ( shuts down ) when I advance out of gear made me think it was something else. So I looked more into the shift position switch. Also thanks Chris for the heads up where it was. To make a long story short I went ahead and changed it . It now starts up and when advanced the throttle out of gear it does not shut down. Haven't checked it out on open water yet but I'm sure it will check out. Yea I know we all heard that before . I will post how it will check out tomorrow ,going off shore for some tuna.","Fins might be part of the problem, but I am not sure they will fix the problem when removed. With the engines vertical (parallel to the transom), how high is the cavitation plate when compared to the bottom of the hull directly in front of the engine? If the engines are set too low that could explain your speed issue and also why the fins were fitted in the first place." +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Strange because if you advance the throttle while not in gear it should be limited to 2500-3000 RPM's and no higher. Will be interested to hear how it runs as I'm still thinking it could be or was a fuel flow issue that maybe you fixed changing the filters. Did you change that micro screen filter on the High Pressure Fuel Pump inside the VST tank when you changed all others? + + Be sure to call for a radio check before you head offshore for Tuna! I can't believe how seldom I hear calls for a radio checks which should be performed EVERY TIME one is heading a ways from shore. Nothing like finding yourself in trouble, out of cell phone range and then finding out the radio isn't sending/receiving or both. Also, purchase the unlimited towing insurance through Boat U.S. / Towboat U.S. if you have one serving your area and you are heading out on your own. Best $99 you can spend per year. The time you need a tow and your 20 miles out it's not fun to get a bill @ $350-$400/hr from the time the tow leaves its dock until it gets you back to the dock (at tow speed)... You can easily spend 20+ years worth of towing insurance on one tow... It ain't like towing a car to a service center!","Strange because if you advance the throttle while not in gear it should be limited to 2500-3000 RPM's and no higher. Will be interested to hear how it runs as I'm still thinking it could be or was a fuel flow issue that maybe you fixed changing the filters. Did you change that micro screen filter on the High Pressure Fuel Pump inside the VST tank when you changed all others? + + Be sure to call for a radio check before you head offshore for Tuna! I can't believe how seldom I hear calls for a radio checks which should be performed EVERY TIME one is heading a ways from shore. Nothing like finding yourself in trouble, out of cell phone range and then finding out the radio isn't sending/receiving or both. Also, purchase the unlimited towing insurance through Boat U.S. / Towboat U.S. if you have one serving your area and you are heading out on your own. Best $99 you can spend per year. The time you need a tow and your 20 miles out it's not fun to get a bill @ $350-$400/hr from the time the tow leaves its dock until it gets you back to the dock (at tow speed)... You can easily spend 20+ years worth of towing insurance on one tow... It ain't like towing a car to a service center!","Hi, 2 Stroke, are you sure you had oil mixing with the gas? Compression sounds low. Also sounds like lower unit had insufficient oil. Does engine rev up to high rpms like 5000? If engine gets to high running rpms but boat not moving, I would say issue in the lower unit. I would order or download the service manual for more troubleshooting info. Checked my service manual for 50 and 60 Hp. Compression should be 139 psi min. Sounds like issue is in the cylinders. If auto oil injected maybe the oil injector failed. Ouch." +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Had to cancel today trip due to weather .But took the boat out for a test run and good thing I canceled the fishing trip. +Now here's what I got. + Advancing the throttle out of gear it goes to 3000 RPM ,no problem there. +IN gear I get a slight vibration and could only advance to 1600 rpms . +I tried pumping the fuel ball with no increase of rpms. +The only filter I changed was the main filter, nothing on the engine. +What you said about low oil in the tank maybe I should look at also because in the past I had a problem and it was a broken at the pin in the connection on the tank. But than the warning horn sounded when it got low oil on the engine tank. I'm not getting a horn now . +I have twin engines ,is there anything I could swap form on to the other ? +Hate the thought of getting into the VST tank , looks like it would take awhile. +Tanks for any help you may offer; +Bob","Had to cancel today trip due to weather .But took the boat out for a test run and good thing I canceled the fishing trip. +Now here's what I got. + Advancing the throttle out of gear it goes to 3000 RPM ,no problem there. +IN gear I get a slight vibration and could only advance to 1600 rpms . +I tried pumping the fuel ball with no increase of rpms. +The only filter I changed was the main filter, nothing on the engine. +What you said about low oil in the tank maybe I should look at also because in the past I had a problem and it was a broken at the pin in the connection on the tank. But than the warning horn sounded when it got low oil on the engine tank. I'm not getting a horn now . +I have twin engines ,is there anything I could swap form on to the other ? +Hate the thought of getting into the VST tank , looks like it would take awhile. +Tanks for any help you may offer; +Bob","Just my experience, got an outboard motor cheap because someone did the same thing +On a four stroke, the manual will tell you which side to lay the. Motor on, my Yamaha is on the throttle handle side. In my case I had to remove the carb and put it in my ultrasonic cleaner disassembled." +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Deepsea21, I'm in the process of ordering all the filters . But I'm confused on what you said in the above . +First is there more than one filter in the VST tank. +Also I cannot find the part or part number of the high press pump filter you mentioned . Is it in the pressure pump and not shown ? +I changed the plugs just incase and swapped the oil sending unit on the engine tank with the other engine . No help with either. +Now I'm getting up to 1800 RPM . +So I guess I'm down to the filters and have to change them all. + +Bob","Deepsea21, I'm in the process of ordering all the filters . But I'm confused on what you said in the above . +First is there more than one filter in the VST tank. +Also I cannot find the part or part number of the high press pump filter you mentioned . Is it in the pressure pump and not shown ? +I changed the plugs just incase and swapped the oil sending unit on the engine tank with the other engine . No help with either. +Now I'm getting up to 1800 RPM . +So I guess I'm down to the filters and have to change them all. + +Bob",Is your emergency kill lanyard in place and seated properly? Try taking it off and and putting it on a few times. Make sure it is in place properly. I seen plenty of people tear everything apart only to find that kill switch was tripped. +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","flabob1 said: + + + + Had to cancel today trip due to weather .But took the boat out for a test run and good thing I canceled the fishing trip. +Now here's what I got. + Advancing the throttle out of gear it goes to 3000 RPM ,no problem there. +IN gear I get a slight vibration and could only advance to 1600 rpms . +I tried pumping the fuel ball with no increase of rpms. +The only filter I changed was the main filter, nothing on the engine. +What you said about low oil in the tank maybe I should look at also because in the past I had a problem and it was a broken at the pin in the connection on the tank. But than the warning horn sounded when it got low oil on the engine tank. I'm not getting a horn now . +I have twin engines ,is there anything I could swap form on to the other ? +Hate the thought of getting into the VST tank , looks like it would take awhile. +Tanks for any help you may offer; +Bob + +Click to expand... + + +My apologies Bob... + +I just did some brief research on that engine and there is no VST ""tank"". I thought it was a fuel injected 4-stroke but it's that damned complex HIGH PRESSURE DIRECT INJECTION 2 stroke (HPDI) system. I did find a video that shows 2 mystery micro filters and it is ALOT of wrenching to get to them. When you see the size of them they may as well be no bigger than a micro filter in a fuel injector! Here's the link... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeGG84jMPkA + +Here's a link to a 200 HPDI that is probably quite similar and addresses some other ""ghost"" filters that are probably on your engine even though it's a 200 and not a 150. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp2TnOfsgqE + +The engine will achieve high RPM's very easily in neutral because there is no load on it and it takes minimal fuel to rev it. Now that you are only reaching 1600 RPM under load I think the fuel flow is becoming further restricted somewhere. Under load for an outboard to reach 3000 RPM it is REALLY SUCKING FUEL compared to reaching it in neutral... just like stepping on the gas in your car in neutral vs: in gear climbing a hill. + +This may be a case where we all have to suck it up and take it to a Yahama Mafia service center as that is one heck of alot of wrenching and screwing around. First time I wrenched my way into my F115 which has a ""VST"" tank burried so deep in the engine it wasn't funny... I kept a 5 gallon bucket by and put nut bolt, hose and piece in it in the event I coudn't get it back together or had something left over. I'd love to find the yamaha engineer who placed that tank so deep in that engine and ram that micro screen up his ass. + +Anyway, the yamaha techs have to make $ too (sometimes) for what it's worth unless anyone else here has any other suggestions. It's not like you can limp around for several hours with that engine hooked up to a separate 6-gal tank with a 3x or 4x high dose of Seafoam in it to see if it can clean it out and, even if it did, it may just clean enough that it runs well and leaves another possible clog just down the road when you're offshore. Not worth it in my opinion.","flabob1 said: + + + + Had to cancel today trip due to weather .But took the boat out for a test run and good thing I canceled the fishing trip. +Now here's what I got. + Advancing the throttle out of gear it goes to 3000 RPM ,no problem there. +IN gear I get a slight vibration and could only advance to 1600 rpms . +I tried pumping the fuel ball with no increase of rpms. +The only filter I changed was the main filter, nothing on the engine. +What you said about low oil in the tank maybe I should look at also because in the past I had a problem and it was a broken at the pin in the connection on the tank. But than the warning horn sounded when it got low oil on the engine tank. I'm not getting a horn now . +I have twin engines ,is there anything I could swap form on to the other ? +Hate the thought of getting into the VST tank , looks like it would take awhile. +Tanks for any help you may offer; +Bob + +Click to expand... + + +My apologies Bob... + +I just did some brief research on that engine and there is no VST ""tank"". I thought it was a fuel injected 4-stroke but it's that damned complex HIGH PRESSURE DIRECT INJECTION 2 stroke (HPDI) system. I did find a video that shows 2 mystery micro filters and it is ALOT of wrenching to get to them. When you see the size of them they may as well be no bigger than a micro filter in a fuel injector! Here's the link... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeGG84jMPkA + +Here's a link to a 200 HPDI that is probably quite similar and addresses some other ""ghost"" filters that are probably on your engine even though it's a 200 and not a 150. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp2TnOfsgqE + +The engine will achieve high RPM's very easily in neutral because there is no load on it and it takes minimal fuel to rev it. Now that you are only reaching 1600 RPM under load I think the fuel flow is becoming further restricted somewhere. Under load for an outboard to reach 3000 RPM it is REALLY SUCKING FUEL compared to reaching it in neutral... just like stepping on the gas in your car in neutral vs: in gear climbing a hill. + +This may be a case where we all have to suck it up and take it to a Yahama Mafia service center as that is one heck of alot of wrenching and screwing around. First time I wrenched my way into my F115 which has a ""VST"" tank burried so deep in the engine it wasn't funny... I kept a 5 gallon bucket by and put nut bolt, hose and piece in it in the event I coudn't get it back together or had something left over. I'd love to find the yamaha engineer who placed that tank so deep in that engine and ram that micro screen up his ass. + +Anyway, the yamaha techs have to make $ too (sometimes) for what it's worth unless anyone else here has any other suggestions. It's not like you can limp around for several hours with that engine hooked up to a separate 6-gal tank with a 3x or 4x high dose of Seafoam in it to see if it can clean it out and, even if it did, it may just clean enough that it runs well and leaves another possible clog just down the road when you're offshore. Not worth it in my opinion.","The carb may be overfilling causing the engine to flood, or the engine needs a sync n link. +Does it die or Is it hard to start after it stalls after those 3 seconds? + +Unless you know how it's done, you will need a manual to do it correctly and/or troubleshoot the problem." +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Wow man ,do you have some bad weed ? +I have two Yamaha 150 HPDI and they boat have a VST tank on it. Almost out in the open on the left forward side of the engine. The parts brake down shows a filter at the bottom of a pump. +I'm going to change the filter but just wanted to know is there any other filters in there while I'll have it open . + +Thanks for the info on the mystery filters .They look like they are buried and I'll save them for last and then turn it over to Yamaha Mafia if I need to. +This is cutting in on my fishing time but I got to get it done. +Thanks again for the help +I'll post my results in a week I guess. +Bo + +.","Wow man ,do you have some bad weed ? +I have two Yamaha 150 HPDI and they boat have a VST tank on it. Almost out in the open on the left forward side of the engine. The parts brake down shows a filter at the bottom of a pump. +I'm going to change the filter but just wanted to know is there any other filters in there while I'll have it open . + +Thanks for the info on the mystery filters .They look like they are buried and I'll save them for last and then turn it over to Yamaha Mafia if I need to. +This is cutting in on my fishing time but I got to get it done. +Thanks again for the help +I'll post my results in a week I guess. +Bo + +.",Thanks chawk. I realized that yesterday and I posted it there to. Thanks for the help. This site is really good. Thanks everyone. +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","flabob1 said: + + + + Wow man ,do you have some bad weed ? +I have two Yamaha 150 HPDI and they boat have a VST tank on it. Almost out in the open on the left forward side of the engine. The parts brake down shows a filter at the bottom of a pump. +I'm going to change the filter but just wanted to know is there any other filters in there while I'll have it open . + +Thanks for the info on the mystery filters .They look like they are buried and I'll save them for last and then turn it over to Yamaha Mafia if I need to. +This is cutting in on my fishing time but I got to get it done. +Thanks again for the help +I'll post my results in a week I guess. +Bo + +. + +Click to expand... + +It's a simple job,. + + +You have the screen on the bottom of the fuel pump in the VST and the High Pressure filter between the VST and the High Pressure pump. Don't worry about the small screens in the HPDI pump. + +You will need to get the new seal for the top of the VST tank cover. You will not be able to reuse yours. Do not use worm screw clamps, replace the otiker clamps with the same.","flabob1 said: + + + + Wow man ,do you have some bad weed ? +I have two Yamaha 150 HPDI and they boat have a VST tank on it. Almost out in the open on the left forward side of the engine. The parts brake down shows a filter at the bottom of a pump. +I'm going to change the filter but just wanted to know is there any other filters in there while I'll have it open . + +Thanks for the info on the mystery filters .They look like they are buried and I'll save them for last and then turn it over to Yamaha Mafia if I need to. +This is cutting in on my fishing time but I got to get it done. +Thanks again for the help +I'll post my results in a week I guess. +Bo + +. + +Click to expand... + +It's a simple job,. + + +You have the screen on the bottom of the fuel pump in the VST and the High Pressure filter between the VST and the High Pressure pump. Don't worry about the small screens in the HPDI pump. + +You will need to get the new seal for the top of the VST tank cover. You will not be able to reuse yours. Do not use worm screw clamps, replace the otiker clamps with the same.","I'd advise posting this on the Mercury Forum on this site. Go to the top of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" and scroll down to the Mercury outboard forum." +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Got everything on order, +thanks for the info Chris; + +Bob","Got everything on order, +thanks for the info Chris; + +Bob", +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","flabob1 said: + + + + Wow man ,do you have some bad weed ? +I have two Yamaha 150 HPDI and they boat have a VST tank on it. Almost out in the open on the left forward side of the engine. The parts brake down shows a filter at the bottom of a pump. +I'm going to change the filter but just wanted to know is there any other filters in there while I'll have it open . + +Thanks for the info on the mystery filters .They look like they are buried and I'll save them for last and then turn it over to Yamaha Mafia if I need to. +This is cutting in on my fishing time but I got to get it done. +Thanks again for the help +I'll post my results in a week I guess. +Bo + +. + +Click to expand... + + +Nope... REEEEAAALLLLLYYYYY Good! Must have been looking at the wrong engine. VST tank on my F115 is burried way DEEP in the engine. Yes, that filter on the bottom of the HP fuel pump is the one I'm talking about. Glad to hear yours is easy to access. 90% sure you change ot and problem will be solved.","flabob1 said: + + + + Wow man ,do you have some bad weed ? +I have two Yamaha 150 HPDI and they boat have a VST tank on it. Almost out in the open on the left forward side of the engine. The parts brake down shows a filter at the bottom of a pump. +I'm going to change the filter but just wanted to know is there any other filters in there while I'll have it open . + +Thanks for the info on the mystery filters .They look like they are buried and I'll save them for last and then turn it over to Yamaha Mafia if I need to. +This is cutting in on my fishing time but I got to get it done. +Thanks again for the help +I'll post my results in a week I guess. +Bo + +. + +Click to expand... + + +Nope... REEEEAAALLLLLYYYYY Good! Must have been looking at the wrong engine. VST tank on my F115 is burried way DEEP in the engine. Yes, that filter on the bottom of the HP fuel pump is the one I'm talking about. Glad to hear yours is easy to access. 90% sure you change ot and problem will be solved.","helps those of us that cant see your boat if you adequately describe what you have.... + +connecting the dots in your post, I'd suspect an inboard.....so you need to check the shaft. if the shaft will rotate with a constant resistance thru a complete revolution (in the water), it is probably serviceable. if its a trailer boat, you could just remove the shaft and have a prop shop check it for trueness but that may be more work depending upon the coupler. + +Did the prop blades just get bent or did it suffer major impact? What is the prop made of?" +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Finely got all the parts and changed the Main water separator , the VSI filter and the filter in the fuel bowl. Also changed the fuel line from the tank and swapped the pump ball. +Started up and still have the same problem. +In gear could only advance to 16/1700 rpsm. +Out of gear 3000 to 3500 rpms + +I'm thinking to swapping the $80.00 filter sitting on top of the engine going to the VSI. To hot today , it's Fl. +Is it possiable that it's not the problem of getting fuel but something is controlling the amount of fuel ? +Like when you get a over heat warning or low oil you are restricted to a lower RPM's +I don't get any warning horn at any time. +I'm about ready to call the man with the computer. +Any suggestions ? + +Bob","Finely got all the parts and changed the Main water separator , the VSI filter and the filter in the fuel bowl. Also changed the fuel line from the tank and swapped the pump ball. +Started up and still have the same problem. +In gear could only advance to 16/1700 rpsm. +Out of gear 3000 to 3500 rpms + +I'm thinking to swapping the $80.00 filter sitting on top of the engine going to the VSI. To hot today , it's Fl. +Is it possiable that it's not the problem of getting fuel but something is controlling the amount of fuel ? +Like when you get a over heat warning or low oil you are restricted to a lower RPM's +I don't get any warning horn at any time. +I'm about ready to call the man with the computer. +Any suggestions ? + +Bob","keeth said: + + + + At this point im probably talking to a wall, however iv made progress. Pulled the carbs, cleaned again. This time with much more aggression. Like 150 psi air nozzle. Blew some sort of gunk from deep in the idle circuit. Wouldnt you know the miss at idle went away. I began to look down the throats of the carbs and noticed that #3 carb at idle was drawing fuel through the main jet while the others were not. Also the idle mixture screw doesnt seem to do anything on that carb. I have no idea what would cause that. Iv googled to the ends of the earth and used google translate to look at something written in Hindi. Nothing. If any of you guys have an idea id greatly thankful. I also reset the float heights to exactly 15mm as the book calls. Thanks guys + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for posting results! This is very helpful for others." +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Finely got all the parts and changed the Main water separator , the VSI filter and the filter in the fuel bowl. Also changed the fuel line from the tank and swapped the pump ball. + Started up and still have the same problem. + In gear could only advance to 16/1700 rpsm. + Out of gear 3000 to 3500 rpms + + I'm thinking to swapping the $80.00 filter sitting on top of the engine going to the VSI. To hot today , it's Fl. + Is it possiable that it's not the problem of getting fuel but something is controlling the amount of fuel ? + Like when you get a over heat warning or low oil you are restricted to a lower RPM's + I don't get any warning horn at any time. + I'm about ready to call the man with the computer. + Any suggestions ? + + Bob","Finely got all the parts and changed the Main water separator , the VSI filter and the filter in the fuel bowl. Also changed the fuel line from the tank and swapped the pump ball. + Started up and still have the same problem. + In gear could only advance to 16/1700 rpsm. + Out of gear 3000 to 3500 rpms + + I'm thinking to swapping the $80.00 filter sitting on top of the engine going to the VSI. To hot today , it's Fl. + Is it possiable that it's not the problem of getting fuel but something is controlling the amount of fuel ? + Like when you get a over heat warning or low oil you are restricted to a lower RPM's + I don't get any warning horn at any time. + I'm about ready to call the man with the computer. + Any suggestions ? + + Bob","Not being a wise ass but, where did you get the comp gauge?" +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Actually the shift switch is on the engine. The neutral safety switch is in the control box. + +If the ecm does not see the engine started in neutral and shifted into gear while the engine is running it will limit the rpms to around 3000. + +Click to expand... + + +This is where you should be looking. + + + + +Change the $80 filter,","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Actually the shift switch is on the engine. The neutral safety switch is in the control box. + +If the ecm does not see the engine started in neutral and shifted into gear while the engine is running it will limit the rpms to around 3000. + +Click to expand... + + +This is where you should be looking. + + + + +Change the $80 filter,","Hi Jim, + +The old cable worked fine, aside from the free play, which is why I changed it. The new cable is the same length (13ft) and takes the same route, without any excessive bends etc. So I'm assuming the drag link is OK, as it was before, and it isn't binding on anything. Also, here are the things I'm tried to pin down the issue: + +Disconnect drag link, helm connected. +- Outboard pivots easily by hand, as no cable attached. +- Steering turns easily, and cable passes through the tilt tube with ease. + +Disconnect Helm, drag link connected. +- Outboard pivots easily by hand, and steering cable exits/enters the sheath with no issues. +- Steering turn easily, as no cable going though it. + +So all I can deduce is that the helm is fine, the cable is fine, and the tilt tube is fine! But, when all are connected up, the issue occurs. + +One thing I thought of was that when I installed the cable, I only had copper grease in the garage, so I used that, both on the tube that slides through the tilt tube, and also (having extended the cable) the tube that slides within that tube. I've since cleaned it off, and applied white lithium grease, so I don't know if that's an issue?" +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Chris; +I swapped the $80.00 filter with the other engine and it's the same . Only 1600 rpms at full throttle. +Please don't tell me it's the little filters filters in the HP pump. +The filter in the VSI was stained with very fine dirt on part of it not all of it. The bottom part of the unit ( bowl) had no dirt , very clean. +I got a mechanic with a computer coming Tuesday . Hopefully we will find something . +Thanks ; + +Bob","Chris; +I swapped the $80.00 filter with the other engine and it's the same . Only 1600 rpms at full throttle. +Please don't tell me it's the little filters filters in the HP pump. +The filter in the VSI was stained with very fine dirt on part of it not all of it. The bottom part of the unit ( bowl) had no dirt , very clean. +I got a mechanic with a computer coming Tuesday . Hopefully we will find something . +Thanks ; + +Bob",With motors that are built with precision computer machined parts the 20 lbs missing is a concern.-------Sounds like you found out why it was sitting for these years.-----Perhaps it just needs a new piston / rings now. +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Actually the shift switch is on the engine. The neutral safety switch is in the control box. + +If the ecm does not see the engine started in neutral and shifted into gear while the engine is running it will limit the rpms to around 3000 or less. + +Click to expand... + + + +Again, This is where you should be looking.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Actually the shift switch is on the engine. The neutral safety switch is in the control box. + +If the ecm does not see the engine started in neutral and shifted into gear while the engine is running it will limit the rpms to around 3000 or less. + +Click to expand... + + + +Again, This is where you should be looking.","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + Clean the carb. Float is probably stuck. +Don't use carb soaks, it can damage any plastic that might be there. +I use the cheap carb/brake cleaner from WallyWorld. + +Click to expand... + + +I think he is telling you to remove the carb, take it apart and clean it. + +You cannot just add a magic chemical to your fuel to accomplish this. + +If you do not want to pull your carb and continue to put chemicals through your engine don't worry the problem with your carb will become minor. + +This is a simple job." +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Here's the latest ; + +Checked the shift switch and it checked good. +The only thing left was the High pressure pump which cost $500 to have rebuilt. +Had a mechanic put the test computer on it and thank god the pump checks Ok at 600 psi. +He suggested that it's possiable the vacuum pumps might be at fault . They do not show up on the computer . +So we changed the two vacuum pumps . Took it for a test run and checked out Good. zero to 4400 rpms with no hesitation at all. +Well at lease I now have all new filters . +Thank to all you guys that helped me along with this. +I'm sure I'll be back with something new in the furture.","Here's the latest ; + +Checked the shift switch and it checked good. +The only thing left was the High pressure pump which cost $500 to have rebuilt. +Had a mechanic put the test computer on it and thank god the pump checks Ok at 600 psi. +He suggested that it's possiable the vacuum pumps might be at fault . They do not show up on the computer . +So we changed the two vacuum pumps . Took it for a test run and checked out Good. zero to 4400 rpms with no hesitation at all. +Well at lease I now have all new filters . +Thank to all you guys that helped me along with this. +I'm sure I'll be back with something new in the furture.","""Glad to here all is going wel + +""Glad to here all is going well.I'm in PA and require yearly trailer safety inspections, nothing like failing one for bad brakes.""" +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks",Are you talking about the mechanical low pressure fuel pumps?,Are you talking about the mechanical low pressure fuel pumps?,"its a sales thing....some measure the length of the boat only...some include everything including motors and out drives and bow additions etc...swim platforms...four feet is stretching it a bit but three feet is not that uncommon... i replaced a 15 foot boat with a 17 foot boat once...actually kept the old one..they were sitting side by side at my camp and i said there is no difference in length...so i measured it and there wasnt much..just a different way to measure it....the old boat was actually 16 feet three inches... + the coast guard measures boats from the tip of the bow to the back edge of the transom with the tape on top ...." +"No sooner I get one problem I have another. + +Advancing the throttle in gear to full throttle all I get is a max of 3000 rpm. +If I advance the throttle out of gear it shuts down. + +I Checked battery and all connections checked ok. Also checked to see if I had ignition at each cly. all checks ok. +It's like when advanced out of gear it's hitting a kill switch some where. +Is that possiable ? +Where to from here , +Thanks","Yep That's them. Bolted to the block and works on vacuum . +Not to bad to get at just had to undue the VSI tank again.","Yep That's them. Bolted to the block and works on vacuum . +Not to bad to get at just had to undue the VSI tank again.","papyson said: + + + + model and year of the boat needed....does it have a regulator or just a rectifier?....did you just put a new battery in the boat? + +Click to expand... + + +1988 Bayliner, old battery. 85 Force engine, I think it has a rectifier?" +")@ ox66 150 txrz has low speed miss between 1100- 1900 rpm. New filter in vst & main, New plugs, fuel pumps (vac) last season fresh fuel, compression equal all cyls. Over 2000 rpm no issues to 5200rpm. any ideas?",also noticed what sounds like vac leak by mechanical pump area. Any ideas I missed?,also noticed what sounds like vac leak by mechanical pump area. Any ideas I missed?,What's is the top rpm u are getting now at full throttle? +")@ ox66 150 txrz has low speed miss between 1100- 1900 rpm. New filter in vst & main, New plugs, fuel pumps (vac) last season fresh fuel, compression equal all cyls. Over 2000 rpm no issues to 5200rpm. any ideas?","pulled both mechanical fuel pumps, both failed vac. leakdown test. Replaced and running good . Pumps only 10 months old. Yamaha factory parts.","pulled both mechanical fuel pumps, both failed vac. leakdown test. Replaced and running good . Pumps only 10 months old. Yamaha factory parts.",I have the same problem with a 2003 Yamaha F115 with only 320 hours...... Any ideas????? +")@ ox66 150 txrz has low speed miss between 1100- 1900 rpm. New filter in vst & main, New plugs, fuel pumps (vac) last season fresh fuel, compression equal all cyls. Over 2000 rpm no issues to 5200rpm. any ideas?",You wonder how they stay in business.,You wonder how they stay in business.,"It's pretty much straight up fiberglass work. Lots and lots of itchy sanding in your future. I would go with polyester resin over epoxy only because it's less expensive and sets faster. That means you don't have to wait overnight for your work to set up. Get a couple cheap angle grinders cz you'll prolly burn up one or two in the demolition process. Aggressive grinding disc like 30 grit. Block it up level and square before tearing it apart. Wear a tyvek suit with the sleeves taped up, nitrile gloves, and a respirator and go at it. +Buy bulk glass fabric and tape. I found a couple sellers on eBay that sell heavy biaxial cloth for fast build-up. +Stick with a single system like Jamestown Distributor's ""total boat"" line. For paint, use Interlux Perfection." +"Greetings, got two Yamaha 350 hp and a Double command link box. when i first try to start the engine, i got two red lights on the command link box instead of the blue light. i change the computer box with one purchase online and i got the blue light and the engine start and run perfectly. i purchase another online and when i try it on the port side i got the red light. i try the same computer box on the starboard side and i got the red light again. i purchase another computer box online and try it on the port side first and same problem. i try plugging in a computer to read the engine and not getting any reading. my questions is: 1. could there be a problem with the throttle box that cause the computer to get damage when i plug it in? 2. could it be that the computer in the throttle box have a problem? or is both computer i purchase online from different sellers bad. 3. is there anyway i could read a bad computer?",i should mention i try the working box with both engines and it starts perfectly but i didn't exchange the cables on the throttle box,i should mention i try the working box with both engines and it starts perfectly but i didn't exchange the cables on the throttle box,"It is a 2001 Yamaha 40hp CT40TRZ +Looking at it this morning I found a small hose, appears to be a small fuel line disconnected. +Looking from the back of the motor on the left side, next to the center carb. The component is about 2"" squarish like a diaphram. There is a rubber tubular component mounted on the top with 2 wires." +ive got a yamaha 25 hp twostroke portable series in netrual it jumps into forward gear and in reverse it jumps into neutral it stays in forward gear when you hold the gear shifter in either netural or reverse it will stay and run thine so i dont think its the gearbox by the way the whole gear shifter is very lose any suggestions thanks.,"Your control box and shift linkage needs to be adjusted,repaired or replaced","Your control box and shift linkage needs to be adjusted,repaired or replaced",Running the engine on muffs is better because the engine reaches operating temp and thermostat opens allowing full flow through system whereas a cold flush does not +was on my way to a fishing spot and the 150 hp 2 stroke died. Turns over but no spark.,Year and engine model #?,Year and engine model #?,"What is the hull constructed of? Fiberglass, plastic, wood, aluminum, ferrocement......" +was on my way to a fishing spot and the 150 hp 2 stroke died. Turns over but no spark.,2005 Yamaha 150hp 2 stroke 150TXRD,2005 Yamaha 150hp 2 stroke 150TXRD,"Well,some buzzzzzzzers sound momentarily when the key is turned on !!------------If they stay on , then the buzzer is defective !!" +was on my way to a fishing spot and the 150 hp 2 stroke died. Turns over but no spark.,"Seems a little rare for an engine to just die when running and then lose all spark but continue to turn over when cranked. + +How did you check for spark in all cylinders? Did you properly ground the base of the plugs to several bare metal bolts (not a part of the block or a bolt painted with anti-corrosion paint). Can even run a jumper cable from the (-) battery terminal and clip the plug base in it to be absolutely sure it is grounded and you are not getting spark. + +If no spark, #1 is check the engine kill lanyard switch at the helm we are all supposed to clip to ourselves but seldom do. Make sure it wasn't bumped - they can be bumped/lightly pulled that unseats them a bit but they look like they are still in place properly... The engine kill lanyard kills the ignition only on most but the starter will keep turning the engine over when you turn the key. Pull the lanyard off, make sure nothing is cracked or broken put it back on seated properly & see if it starts. (I llearned this the hard way after checking everything else I could think of and someone told me to check the kill switch... Duh!).","Seems a little rare for an engine to just die when running and then lose all spark but continue to turn over when cranked. + +How did you check for spark in all cylinders? Did you properly ground the base of the plugs to several bare metal bolts (not a part of the block or a bolt painted with anti-corrosion paint). Can even run a jumper cable from the (-) battery terminal and clip the plug base in it to be absolutely sure it is grounded and you are not getting spark. + +If no spark, #1 is check the engine kill lanyard switch at the helm we are all supposed to clip to ourselves but seldom do. Make sure it wasn't bumped - they can be bumped/lightly pulled that unseats them a bit but they look like they are still in place properly... The engine kill lanyard kills the ignition only on most but the starter will keep turning the engine over when you turn the key. Pull the lanyard off, make sure nothing is cracked or broken put it back on seated properly & see if it starts. (I llearned this the hard way after checking everything else I could think of and someone told me to check the kill switch... Duh!).",Thanks Stuart! +was on my way to a fishing spot and the 150 hp 2 stroke died. Turns over but no spark.,I did all of that. I did order a new kill switch it will be here tomorrow. the cheapest fix to start with so I will have to see if it is that simple. thank God for TowBoat US the tow in would of been $736.00,I did all of that. I did order a new kill switch it will be here tomorrow. the cheapest fix to start with so I will have to see if it is that simple. thank God for TowBoat US the tow in would of been $736.00,"Compression test. If low, or out of balance (i.e. more than 10% between high and low cylinder), decarb the engine with Sea Foam or YamaLube Ring Free. If compression up to specs, back to the carbs." +was on my way to a fishing spot and the 150 hp 2 stroke died. Turns over but no spark.,"Next could be the Stator Assy but you are over $400 for that. May be worth pulling the rotor assy on top (quick and easy) and taking a look at it for dirt, burning, wasp nests, and lose connection or broken pins in the electrical connections but before I'd throw that much $ at a part chasing a ghost it's, unfortunately, probably time to take it to the service center unless anyone else here has any ideas here or you can find more advice via Google.","Next could be the Stator Assy but you are over $400 for that. May be worth pulling the rotor assy on top (quick and easy) and taking a look at it for dirt, burning, wasp nests, and lose connection or broken pins in the electrical connections but before I'd throw that much $ at a part chasing a ghost it's, unfortunately, probably time to take it to the service center unless anyone else here has any ideas here or you can find more advice via Google.","Thank you for your help and suggestions! + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Oil level is within the dip stick range? In the MIDDLE of the dipstick - not too low or at the top of the range right? Top of the range can be too high on many Yamahas. ​ + +Click to expand... + +I noticed the high temps right after a regular oil change, so I'm confident that there are 6 qts in there. I did go and recheck the bottles, to make sure it was 4-stoke oil. After I saw the high temps, I had a moment of panic that I might have grabbed 2-stoke oil off the shelf by mistake. Nope, it was Yamalube 10W30. + +I haven't checked the oil after all this running around, but the mechanics have and didn't say anything other than it was dirty already. I ordered a couple of oil analysis kits from Blackstone Labs. I've never had an oil analysis done before, but for $28 an engine, I figured it might be a good way to get more information about what's going on with these engines. I plan to get oil from both engines analyzed, so I'll have some numbers to compare. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Did you replace just the water pump impeller or the entire pump assembly? - Sometimes the housing and plate the impeller spins within and on can get scored by sand, tiny pebbles etc. that make their way through the intake screens. When you replaced the impeller are you CERTAIN when you twisted it and seated it in the housing ALL vains of the impeller were twisted and seated in the correct direction?​ + +Click to expand... + +I bought the Yamaha water pump kits, that come with everything except the big plastic housing (that still looked to be in good shape) that covers stainless parts. I changed the plate, key, impeller, stainless housing, gasket, bolts, and o-rings. I broke the silly plastic split ring-thing, getting it apart, so I replaced it and the little stainless cap, as well. + +I did the water pumps 3 years ago, and I've done them on previous engines as well. I don't do it for a living, but I'm pretty sure I installed the parts correctly. Water peed out the indicator as it should. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Perhaps you have a small blockage in the cooling system further up in the engine? Try pulling the thermostat and placing a garden hose into that port with some rags stuffed around and run the hose for a while... maybe you can back-flush some sediment that may have been forced up and clogged a part of the cooling system.​ + +Click to expand... + +This has been suggested, but I haven't done it yet. I was even told to use some CLR tub & tile cleaner when I flush the engine. I guess that stuff does a good job of flushing out scale and build up. + +I've been dragging my feet to black flush the engine, mainly because it sounds like a PIA, but also because the sister engine has over 1800 hours on it with no issues. This one only has 700 hrs on it, and I flush them both the same. Perhaps that faulty thinking on my part, but back flushing the engines is still on my list of things to do. + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Were your temp readings taken on the Raymarine A68 before and after the engine started acting up? These 3rd party systems can have problems with firmware reading the signals being sent by the engine. ​ + +Click to expand... + +I installed the Raymarine two seasons ago, and the numbers ran pretty consistent between the engines, until I noticed the high temps this summer. I updated the firmware when I first got the A68 unit, and I haven't changed anything since. + + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + +Lastly, you can purchase a cheap IR temp reader, run the engines and shoot the temps of areas of each engine to see if one truly is running hotter. + +Click to expand... + +I borrowed an IR temp reader from one of my wife's co-workers. I didn't have the time to run the boat properly, so I settled for running it on a hose with muffs. I only ran the engine for a few minutes before the Yamaha temp alarm went off. The A68 was only reading around 130 degrees, when the overheat alarms went off, so I didn't really get as good of data as I'd hoped. + +The only hot spot I saw was on the starboard camshaft pulley. The mounting bolt (shaft?) was 50-degrees hotter than anything else. This surprised me, because I expected a hot spot to be closer to the temp sensor (near the the port side thermostat). + +I would have liked to run the boat and compare temp readings from both engines, but time didn't allow for that. Unfortunately, I didn't have access to the IR temp gauge when I made my last run, either." +was on my way to a fishing spot and the 150 hp 2 stroke died. Turns over but no spark.,put the new kill switch in turned the key and I was up and running. Thanks for all your suggestions we need to remember to look for the simple things first,put the new kill switch in turned the key and I was up and running. Thanks for all your suggestions we need to remember to look for the simple things first,"Ricor said: + + + + Great idea, will give it a shot and let you know. + +Click to expand... + + +Everything's worth a shot when the alternative is to take it to the Yamaha Mafia service center!" +was on my way to a fishing spot and the 150 hp 2 stroke died. Turns over but no spark.,"Great to hear! Unfortunately, the simplest things tend to elude all of us and I am prob #1 on that list. I'll never forget the day my lil boat about died when I was a kid... I limped to a beach and hauled it up, started pulling plugs and checking for spark with some tools some 4WD'rs had on the beach... had spark, engine turning over with random firing and would die again. Spent 2 hours there screwing around. Grabbed a tow back to the ramp and then I looked at that little old 6 gal metal fuel tank and saw that vent screw... It hit me like a brick to the head... I reached back and gave it a twist... WOOSH! You'd have thought the vaccume that had developed in that tank should have crushed it! Plain old vent valve I had closed to fill the tank and take it to the boat and I forgot to open it again. Another lesson in boating learned the HARD WAY.. No shortage of experience here learning the hard way!","Great to hear! Unfortunately, the simplest things tend to elude all of us and I am prob #1 on that list. I'll never forget the day my lil boat about died when I was a kid... I limped to a beach and hauled it up, started pulling plugs and checking for spark with some tools some 4WD'rs had on the beach... had spark, engine turning over with random firing and would die again. Spent 2 hours there screwing around. Grabbed a tow back to the ramp and then I looked at that little old 6 gal metal fuel tank and saw that vent screw... It hit me like a brick to the head... I reached back and gave it a twist... WOOSH! You'd have thought the vaccume that had developed in that tank should have crushed it! Plain old vent valve I had closed to fill the tank and take it to the boat and I forgot to open it again. Another lesson in boating learned the HARD WAY.. No shortage of experience here learning the hard way!","OK i know this thread is old but for what its worth here is my personal experience. I have tried most setups. + +Electric brakes work by a ""floating"" magnet being energized and grabbing onto the face of the brake drum. This magnet is attached to a lever that moves the shoes. Pretty simple and very effective + +BUT put them in water and a couple of things happen: + + The brake drum itself & the face of the magnet both rust and the magnet has to wear this rust away before it can work properly. This may take a few miles of travel but its not such a big deal. +The big problem is there is always a fair amount of dust in the brake drum from wear from the brake pads and from the face of the drum where the magnet rubs. This dust turns to sludge when you add water and acts like a grinding paste and the magnet and brake drum face just grinds itself to death. It may only take a hundred miles or so + +Even if it does not grind the magnet disc badly, the sludge can dry out and set solid and may prevent movement of the magnet or the lever or the shoes. + +Best set up for boats is mechanical over run (depends where you live whether these are legal along with the weight of the boat) then Hydraulic either electric air/ hydraulic (Sensa Brake) electric hydraulic, air hydraulic (like trucks), vacuum hydraulic (uses the cars vacuum to operate hydraulic, much less common these days). + +Whatever you use you can get galvanized parts, bronze & stainless parts ( including the discs) or just use standard parts and replace them every couple of years. It is only a matter of justifying how much you wish to spend. Water heat & cast iron (drums & disks) will nearly always rust whether its salt water or fresh/brackish water + +My current setup is a Sensa brake with galvanized calipers & discs. +Where I live, over run brakes have a cut off of 2000kg so I cant use them. Also its law here that the brakes must come on automatically if the boat/trailer disconnects from the car while traveling, and you must be able to have control of the trailer brakes manually (as well as automatically ) from the towing vehicles brakes. (so you can put the trailer brakes on without the tow vehicle brake)" +was on my way to a fishing spot and the 150 hp 2 stroke died. Turns over but no spark.,I got the shirt too,I got the shirt too,"90% of OB issues are fuel system related....so that's where you start troubleshooting, moving through each fuel related part until you either find the issue or rule out the fuel system being the issue. Sounds like you've skipped ahead, addressing the other 2 systems...spark and compression....but that's ok. I'd move focus back to fuel system. When you cleaned carbs did this include pulling all 3, pulling jets and clearing jets, verifying spec float height, etc??...then time/sync each carb after reinstall?? What's the primer bulb doing as you throttle up and lose power...full and tight or collapsed?" +"Good day fellow member’s, I hope someone can give me some advice with a problem I’m having with the new (second hand) outboards motors I recently fitted to my duck. The detail of the boat taken off manufacturer website are as follows: Predator duck Model: 4.9M, Length 5M, Beam 2.060m, Mass 290KG, recommended HP 1x90HP or 2x40HP. When I bought the duck it had a single 85HP Yamaha year ’95 fitted to it, the motor had a hard life but was still running well, it got on a plane fairly quick and the maxed out top speed was 55KMH with a 15 pitch prop. I recently decided to get the boat ready for CAT C so the whole boat was restored and fitted two Yamaha motors 2006 40VEO with 11 3/8 12pitch props which are in pristine condition with only 80 hour on them and a full service history done by a Yamaha dealer ship. I took the boat out on Sunday for the first time with the new motors and they run very quietly and got on a plane much quicker than the old 85 but they do not rev higher than 4000RPM on WOT while the boat was carring two people and 4 x 25L cans of fuel. We played around with the tilt of the motors toe-in and toe-out and all the throttle cable are set right so the carburettor flaps open fully. I started doing some resursh on RPM’s and most of the research seems to point to the props. What I understand is for every pitch I go down I’ll increase the RPM by roughly 200RPM so from a 12 pitch down to the smallest pitch prop I can find which is a 9 Pitch I will only get the revs up by approximately 600RPM which is still far below Yamaha’s recommended RPM range for the outboard which is 5500RPM. Any suggestions on what else can I do to get my outboards RPM up would be greatly appreciated.","Are your engines mounted at the right height on transom in relation to keel,lowest area of hull. Wait for other replies from the prop gurus","Are your engines mounted at the right height on transom in relation to keel,lowest area of hull. Wait for other replies from the prop gurus","Ayuh,.... There's No grounds anywhere near that battery switch, only the positive cables,..... + +The boat's Grounds should all be common,...... +Each battery to the motor, which makes the motor's block the common Ground,..... +If more than 1 motor, there should be Ground straps from block to block,......" +"Good day fellow member’s, I hope someone can give me some advice with a problem I’m having with the new (second hand) outboards motors I recently fitted to my duck. The detail of the boat taken off manufacturer website are as follows: Predator duck Model: 4.9M, Length 5M, Beam 2.060m, Mass 290KG, recommended HP 1x90HP or 2x40HP. When I bought the duck it had a single 85HP Yamaha year ’95 fitted to it, the motor had a hard life but was still running well, it got on a plane fairly quick and the maxed out top speed was 55KMH with a 15 pitch prop. I recently decided to get the boat ready for CAT C so the whole boat was restored and fitted two Yamaha motors 2006 40VEO with 11 3/8 12pitch props which are in pristine condition with only 80 hour on them and a full service history done by a Yamaha dealer ship. I took the boat out on Sunday for the first time with the new motors and they run very quietly and got on a plane much quicker than the old 85 but they do not rev higher than 4000RPM on WOT while the boat was carring two people and 4 x 25L cans of fuel. We played around with the tilt of the motors toe-in and toe-out and all the throttle cable are set right so the carburettor flaps open fully. I started doing some resursh on RPM’s and most of the research seems to point to the props. What I understand is for every pitch I go down I’ll increase the RPM by roughly 200RPM so from a 12 pitch down to the smallest pitch prop I can find which is a 9 Pitch I will only get the revs up by approximately 600RPM which is still far below Yamaha’s recommended RPM range for the outboard which is 5500RPM. Any suggestions on what else can I do to get my outboards RPM up would be greatly appreciated.",I did adjusts the motors by the mounting bracket and had no RPM increase.,I did adjusts the motors by the mounting bracket and had no RPM increase.,"tileslayer said: + + + + Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle + +Click to expand... + + +Your words above in bold are a good indication of where the most likely problem is located...the fuel pump. Depending on how you store your outboard, the only time when priming the engine is needed is during a cold start (1st start of the day). With a healthy fuel pump, no matter how many times you start and cut engine you should not need to re-prime engine after initial cold start. + +See schematic below of your fuel pump, located center right in picture. Dismount the pump and check for leaks. If you've got a friend nearby, have them squeeze primer bulb as you look at fuel pump for leaks. If it leaks, replace it with a new fuel pump. + +If no visible leak is seen, re-mount fuel pump. Take the boat back out on the water and run it. When it starts running rough, feel the primer bulb with your hand. You should feel flow running through the bulb as the engine is running. If the bulb is collapsing, that's indication #1 of a bad fuel pump. + +If the bulb did collapse, now you'll get the engine started and run it again. But this time keep your hand on the primer bulb and don't let it collapse. As the engine continues to run, you prime the bulb keeping it tight (don't over prime, just till bulb is tight). Keep repeating this for a few minutes as the engine runs in the mid rpms. If the engine continues to run, that's indication #2 of a bad fuel pump. And you don't need a #3 to complete this troubleshooting. It's a bad fuel pump. Replace. Luckily they're not expensive." +"Good day fellow member’s, I hope someone can give me some advice with a problem I’m having with the new (second hand) outboards motors I recently fitted to my duck. The detail of the boat taken off manufacturer website are as follows: Predator duck Model: 4.9M, Length 5M, Beam 2.060m, Mass 290KG, recommended HP 1x90HP or 2x40HP. When I bought the duck it had a single 85HP Yamaha year ’95 fitted to it, the motor had a hard life but was still running well, it got on a plane fairly quick and the maxed out top speed was 55KMH with a 15 pitch prop. I recently decided to get the boat ready for CAT C so the whole boat was restored and fitted two Yamaha motors 2006 40VEO with 11 3/8 12pitch props which are in pristine condition with only 80 hour on them and a full service history done by a Yamaha dealer ship. I took the boat out on Sunday for the first time with the new motors and they run very quietly and got on a plane much quicker than the old 85 but they do not rev higher than 4000RPM on WOT while the boat was carring two people and 4 x 25L cans of fuel. We played around with the tilt of the motors toe-in and toe-out and all the throttle cable are set right so the carburettor flaps open fully. I started doing some resursh on RPM’s and most of the research seems to point to the props. What I understand is for every pitch I go down I’ll increase the RPM by roughly 200RPM so from a 12 pitch down to the smallest pitch prop I can find which is a 9 Pitch I will only get the revs up by approximately 600RPM which is still far below Yamaha’s recommended RPM range for the outboard which is 5500RPM. Any suggestions on what else can I do to get my outboards RPM up would be greatly appreciated.","Not familiar with that boat but if it has a V-bottom and not a flat bottom twins get mounted several inches higher than a single would on the same boat. You want the twins mounted high enough that the anti-ventilation plates that reside just above above the props are NOT underwater when on plane. That plate should have the water coming off the botttom of the stern running just under it, not over it. Any deeper than that and the lower units on the engines are creating alot of drag. With the engines down and the anti-vent plate parallel to the bottom of the hull you should be able to look from behind the props forward under that anti-vent plate and have the bottom of that plate line up with (or slightly higher) than the bottom of the stern hull portion just in front of them.","Not familiar with that boat but if it has a V-bottom and not a flat bottom twins get mounted several inches higher than a single would on the same boat. You want the twins mounted high enough that the anti-ventilation plates that reside just above above the props are NOT underwater when on plane. That plate should have the water coming off the botttom of the stern running just under it, not over it. Any deeper than that and the lower units on the engines are creating alot of drag. With the engines down and the anti-vent plate parallel to the bottom of the hull you should be able to look from behind the props forward under that anti-vent plate and have the bottom of that plate line up with (or slightly higher) than the bottom of the stern hull portion just in front of them.","I’m sorry, I thought I sent this through the other night...what I meant by “this” was a bad check valve(s). I don’t really see a lot of pooling up in the lower cowling. And I did ask the mechanic because it seemed odd and he told me it was because the motor is older and with the ethanol fuel around now the engine needs it. I didn’t question it at first too much because he says a 20 year yamaha tech" +"1996 T9.9 Yamaha outboard sat for 6 months. Cranks really strong, not getting spark at the plugs. Ran great before I shut it down.",How did you test for spark? Did you use an open air gap test?,How did you test for spark? Did you use an open air gap test?,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + If the fuse is blowing as soon as you install it, this will be easy to find. Problem is, it is not in front of me and you will need to do the exploration. Put a light bulb in place of the fuse, Start unplugging things, when the light goes out you are close. + +Click to expand... + + +Another reason EVERYONE should purchase and learn how to use a cheap multimeter!" +"1996 T9.9 Yamaha outboard sat for 6 months. Cranks really strong, not getting spark at the plugs. Ran great before I shut it down.","johnnygjr said: + + + + How did you test for spark? Did you use an open air gap test? + +Click to expand... + +No, did the old pulled spark plug against a bolt.","johnnygjr said: + + + + How did you test for spark? Did you use an open air gap test? + +Click to expand... + +No, did the old pulled spark plug against a bolt.","I wish i had those three then I'd know, all I have is a purple and blue, don't see that combo on any of the drawings." +"1996 T9.9 Yamaha outboard sat for 6 months. Cranks really strong, not getting spark at the plugs. Ran great before I shut it down.","trisailor1 said: + + + + No, did the old pulled spark plug against a bolt. + +Click to expand... + + +Was the bolt a bare metal bolt? Outboard blocks and head bolts can be painted with pretty thick anti-corrosion coatings that can block current to ground a plug touched to them. Run a jumper cable from the (-) terminal of the battery back and clip the firing end of the plug in see if it sparks when cranked... That is 100% certain ground. Can also stick your finger in the plug boot and crank... If you jump more than 6"" off the ground like you touched an electric fence I'd say you have spark .","trisailor1 said: + + + + No, did the old pulled spark plug against a bolt. + +Click to expand... + + +Was the bolt a bare metal bolt? Outboard blocks and head bolts can be painted with pretty thick anti-corrosion coatings that can block current to ground a plug touched to them. Run a jumper cable from the (-) terminal of the battery back and clip the firing end of the plug in see if it sparks when cranked... That is 100% certain ground. Can also stick your finger in the plug boot and crank... If you jump more than 6"" off the ground like you touched an electric fence I'd say you have spark .","Knowing the engine hp and if it's a 2 or 4 stroke would be helpful. Also, i can see the engine ID plate in the last picture. Located on port side of engine bracket. This plate will indicate model/year." +"1996 T9.9 Yamaha outboard sat for 6 months. Cranks really strong, not getting spark at the plugs. Ran great before I shut it down.","Never tried the old finger in the boot trick. ""GET SMART""","Never tried the old finger in the boot trick. ""GET SMART""","Alright, alright you guys are calling me out for the part changer that I am. Thanks for this. I’m frustrated that I don’t have the tools to take on a bit more troubleshooting here. At this point all I’ve got is my $10 knock-off multimeter and some amount of common sense. Fellow at the local evinrude dealer suggested he might have a used CDI I could borrow to validate issue. I’m not fixated on the CDI but it would be nice to rule it out - especially without a chas outlay! +are there cost effective voltage tester so could get I I were to engage in further electrical troubleshooting that someone can recommend?" +"1996 T9.9 Yamaha outboard sat for 6 months. Cranks really strong, not getting spark at the plugs. Ran great before I shut it down.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Never tried the old finger in the boot trick. ""GET SMART"" + +Click to expand... + + +I personally don't recommend the finger-in-the-boot test but for those who do it they definately find out quick if they've got VOLTAGE.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Never tried the old finger in the boot trick. ""GET SMART"" + +Click to expand... + + +I personally don't recommend the finger-in-the-boot test but for those who do it they definately find out quick if they've got VOLTAGE.","Having 'hard to start when hot issue' with my 2004 F150 - runs great, idles great, starts great when cold, have to crack throttle to start when hot and it sounds like it's flooded (starts rough, like fouled plugs) Can you send me the link to the bulletin? Thanks! [email protected]" +"When turning the key to start nothing happens , no crank and no alarm. The switch has been changed with no help. Try starting again after 20 min or so and it will start. Also once working the switch a number of times and it started. So far it has always started after waiting or was I just lucky ?. I know there is a starting relay some where but I don't hear anything , could I ?. I'm 15 ft. away from the engine. What should I check when it not starting ?","Check for 12+volts at starter& solenoid with a dvm. Check battery connections,clean them up +&- posts,cables","Check for 12+volts at starter& solenoid with a dvm. Check battery connections,clean them up +&- posts,cables","Yes on 2-3 spark plugs, there was no spark. It behaves as if the quick stop is not inserted." +"When turning the key to start nothing happens , no crank and no alarm. The switch has been changed with no help. Try starting again after 20 min or so and it will start. Also once working the switch a number of times and it started. So far it has always started after waiting or was I just lucky ?. I know there is a starting relay some where but I don't hear anything , could I ?. I'm 15 ft. away from the engine. What should I check when it not starting ?","johnnygjr said: + + + + Check for 12+volts at starter& solenoid with a dvm. Check battery connections,clean them up +&- posts,cables + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the info , the next time it will not start I will check it. +,","johnnygjr said: + + + + Check for 12+volts at starter& solenoid with a dvm. Check battery connections,clean them up +&- posts,cables + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the info , the next time it will not start I will check it. +,","makomark: Thanks for the followup. What wire gauge do you recommend for ground wire. The light set appears (not marked) to be 16 gauge. Do you recommend separate ground wires down each side, or one wire down one side and a jumper to the other light?" +"When turning the key to start nothing happens , no crank and no alarm. The switch has been changed with no help. Try starting again after 20 min or so and it will start. Also once working the switch a number of times and it started. So far it has always started after waiting or was I just lucky ?. I know there is a starting relay some where but I don't hear anything , could I ?. I'm 15 ft. away from the engine. What should I check when it not starting ?",I checked all connection and they were good. Replaced the start relay. Used it all day and started about 10 to 15 time checked good. So far I have to go with a bad relay ....I hope. But had a another problem that I posted ...never ends,I checked all connection and they were good. Replaced the start relay. Used it all day and started about 10 to 15 time checked good. So far I have to go with a bad relay ....I hope. But had a another problem that I posted ...never ends,"UPDATE - You're not going to believe this one. 2 well known marine mechanics arrive. The motor starts and is running (idle) for about 30 minutes. I tell them to rev it up and give it about 10 minutes. Sure enough, after a few minutes, it sputters. Mech 1 says to Mech 2, 'Pump the ball.' He does but nothing changes. Mech 1 says, 'Shut it down."" Mech 2 says, 'That ball is hard as a rock.' and they both look puzzled and proceed to tear everything apart. They find the problem. + +A hose, feeding the VST has a large piece of trash in it. Essentially, the motor is primed by pumping which gets enough fuel up into the lines and fills the VST which feeds the injectors. Because of the mostly blocked line, the fuel can't pump well enough to keep the VST filled thus, it runs out of fuel. Afterwards, I idle it for over an hour then crank up the rpm, and she ran solid for over 15 minutes. It seems it's fixed so in the water this weekend!!! YAY!!! + +​​​​​​​Thanks everyone for the comments!" +"I can't get my compression tester to fit into the bottom cylinder on my Yamaha F50. Are there ""slim profile"" testers available? Or does anyone have a specific tester they have used that will fit? + +Thanks!",Does lower cowl come off to gain access,Does lower cowl come off to gain access,You want the coil one half thread past flush with the surface then snap off the tab. Your gonna want to remove the water jacket cover to get the helicoil at the correct depth in the head. Your putting in a new thermostat may as well get the new cover gasket and put it back together correct. Have you done a compression test? It never hurts to install a new head gasket while your there. +"I can't get my compression tester to fit into the bottom cylinder on my Yamaha F50. Are there ""slim profile"" testers available? Or does anyone have a specific tester they have used that will fit? + +Thanks!","johnnygjr said: + + + + Does lower cowl come off to gain access + +Click to expand... + + + +I'm sure it will come off, haven't tried yet. I was hoping to pick up a slimmer fitting if one existed.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Does lower cowl come off to gain access + +Click to expand... + + + +I'm sure it will come off, haven't tried yet. I was hoping to pick up a slimmer fitting if one existed.", +"I can't get my compression tester to fit into the bottom cylinder on my Yamaha F50. Are there ""slim profile"" testers available? Or does anyone have a specific tester they have used that will fit? + +Thanks!",At one time most Mercury deakers had one for their inline motors.--------Call around.,At one time most Mercury deakers had one for their inline motors.--------Call around.,"I put some fuel stabilizer high in isopropyl in it today. There is 3/4 tank of new gas. I flushed the seperator so hopefully be ok in the future. Problem is even if I flush it on the lake, I have to have gas for the seperator so may keep tools in case I need to loosen a fuel line to fill the seperator" +"How can I remove the upper ""oil bottle"" or tank to drain and retrieve chain leash on a '04 Yamaha 90 2 stroke? Any other suggestions welcome.","CBizzle said: + + + + How can I remove the upper ""oil bottle"" or tank to drain and retrieve chain leash on a '04 Yamaha 90 2 stroke? Any other suggestions welcome. + +Click to expand... + +Suppose I could just siphon oil out, let gravity do the work!","CBizzle said: + + + + How can I remove the upper ""oil bottle"" or tank to drain and retrieve chain leash on a '04 Yamaha 90 2 stroke? Any other suggestions welcome. + +Click to expand... + +Suppose I could just siphon oil out, let gravity do the work!","bdog2 said: + + + + Hi, did you get this solved? I have a pair of 2003 F225 and coming back in from offshore the other day my starboard engine did this. Lost all electrical power. Ignition, tach, trim, all dead. Limped back in on port engine. Got home checked against port engine. Have 12v to both engines. Difference is don't have 12v at the harness plug on front of starboard engine but port does. So I'm assuming my issue is somewhere on the engine. Any ideas? + +Click to expand... + + + +Did use yesterday with no issue. Went through series of checking all connections before trip. Cleaned battery terminals and all wiring. Found the main ground and red wires on the engine itself were fairly lose that you could move wire by hand. Tightened those which ground may have been the culprit. I'll feel better with no issue after a second trip. Would have never thought to look at connections on engine itself. I guess with engine 15 years old anything may be possible." +"How can I remove the upper ""oil bottle"" or tank to drain and retrieve chain leash on a '04 Yamaha 90 2 stroke? Any other suggestions welcome.",Try mechanical fingers to retrieve chain or a magnet if chain isn't stainless steel.,Try mechanical fingers to retrieve chain or a magnet if chain isn't stainless steel.,"papyson said: + + + + check battery connections and make sure battery is fully charged... + +Click to expand... + +Connections good tried another battery fully charged no power at Motor but accessories work" +"I just bought a new 25 HP Yamaha, my first small 4 stroke. It came with a 9 7/8 X 10 prop on it. As I mentioned I am totally new to small 4 strokes but have had numerous small two strokes that size. I am going to run it on a 1448 Grizzly AW with two batteries, about 30# of anchors and a 30 gal bait tank. I have both batteries and the fuel tank up under the front deck and the bait tank will be right behind it. I have done my best to keep weight distribution as even as I could. + +My question unless I am badly fooled this prop is going to have that thing bumping against the rev limiter if it has one if I was dumb enough to run it that way. Does anyone have any suggestions for a prop size for me to start with that will ultimately put it right in the 5500-6K range WOT with a similar boat in this load range? I am not a continual WOT type of guy myself, I would like to prop it ultimately so it will be most efficient but I usually run one in the 4K range cruising or just slightly better unless I am trying to get in to avoid a wet butt occasionally.","As you mentioned you bought the motor brand new... Contact the dealer and tell them you are not sure how this prop will perform given your load and you want to take it out and run it with that prop to see what happens or tell them they can take the boat and run it and see what happens. The dealer who sold you that engine obviously want's to make you happy (and service it for years to come). They will usually tell you to run the boat, don't ding the prop, and if stock performance isn't where is should be they'll replace it with another free of charge until you find the correct prop for your application. A quality dealer will let you swap props over and over until you find the right one for your boat. It's either that or they can spend their time trying different props to reach the correct WOT RPM. They have better things to do than that.","As you mentioned you bought the motor brand new... Contact the dealer and tell them you are not sure how this prop will perform given your load and you want to take it out and run it with that prop to see what happens or tell them they can take the boat and run it and see what happens. The dealer who sold you that engine obviously want's to make you happy (and service it for years to come). They will usually tell you to run the boat, don't ding the prop, and if stock performance isn't where is should be they'll replace it with another free of charge until you find the correct prop for your application. A quality dealer will let you swap props over and over until you find the right one for your boat. It's either that or they can spend their time trying different props to reach the correct WOT RPM. They have better things to do than that.","Well, that's for an outboard. But the I/O is not a lot different. The blower circuit will have it's own switch on the panel." +"I just bought a new 25 HP Yamaha, my first small 4 stroke. It came with a 9 7/8 X 10 prop on it. As I mentioned I am totally new to small 4 strokes but have had numerous small two strokes that size. I am going to run it on a 1448 Grizzly AW with two batteries, about 30# of anchors and a 30 gal bait tank. I have both batteries and the fuel tank up under the front deck and the bait tank will be right behind it. I have done my best to keep weight distribution as even as I could. + +My question unless I am badly fooled this prop is going to have that thing bumping against the rev limiter if it has one if I was dumb enough to run it that way. Does anyone have any suggestions for a prop size for me to start with that will ultimately put it right in the 5500-6K range WOT with a similar boat in this load range? I am not a continual WOT type of guy myself, I would like to prop it ultimately so it will be most efficient but I usually run one in the 4K range cruising or just slightly better unless I am trying to get in to avoid a wet butt occasionally.","deepsea21 said: + + + + As you mentioned you bought the motor brand new... Contact the dealer and tell them you are not sure how this prop will perform given your load and you want to take it out and run it with that prop to see what happens or tell them they can take the boat and run it and see what happens. The dealer who sold you that engine obviously want's to make you happy (and service it for years to come). They will usually tell you to run the boat, don't ding the prop, and if stock performance isn't where is should be they'll replace it with another free of charge until you find the correct prop for your application. A quality dealer will let you swap props over and over until you find the right one for your boat. It's either that or they can spend their time trying different props to reach the correct WOT RPM. They have better things to do than that. + +Click to expand... + +I asked, they are three hours away. His exact words were "" they must have figured it was going to be used by a boat full of Japanese commercial fishermen full of nets"" I asked if he had any other pitch props for it in stock. He said no, but we can order anything you want. + +I pretty much knew I was on my own then.","deepsea21 said: + + + + As you mentioned you bought the motor brand new... Contact the dealer and tell them you are not sure how this prop will perform given your load and you want to take it out and run it with that prop to see what happens or tell them they can take the boat and run it and see what happens. The dealer who sold you that engine obviously want's to make you happy (and service it for years to come). They will usually tell you to run the boat, don't ding the prop, and if stock performance isn't where is should be they'll replace it with another free of charge until you find the correct prop for your application. A quality dealer will let you swap props over and over until you find the right one for your boat. It's either that or they can spend their time trying different props to reach the correct WOT RPM. They have better things to do than that. + +Click to expand... + +I asked, they are three hours away. His exact words were "" they must have figured it was going to be used by a boat full of Japanese commercial fishermen full of nets"" I asked if he had any other pitch props for it in stock. He said no, but we can order anything you want. + +I pretty much knew I was on my own then.","I have a Espar D12L (25-1470) installed on my boat. I was able to repair by swapping in parts from another D12L unit. I am having difficulty finding replacement parts: + + + Espar p/n 25.1480.40.00.00 - P/N 2455RC75 / Elmwood / Thermal cutoff (fig # 6) + Espar p/n 201-00-144 - P/N 2-5700-IG9-P10 /E.T.A/ 28A circuit breaker (Fig #49) + + +Do you know a good source for these parts? I would also like to make up a ""cruising kit"" of parts that are likely to need replacing. + + + +Thanks +Jason" +"I just bought a new 25 HP Yamaha, my first small 4 stroke. It came with a 9 7/8 X 10 prop on it. As I mentioned I am totally new to small 4 strokes but have had numerous small two strokes that size. I am going to run it on a 1448 Grizzly AW with two batteries, about 30# of anchors and a 30 gal bait tank. I have both batteries and the fuel tank up under the front deck and the bait tank will be right behind it. I have done my best to keep weight distribution as even as I could. + +My question unless I am badly fooled this prop is going to have that thing bumping against the rev limiter if it has one if I was dumb enough to run it that way. Does anyone have any suggestions for a prop size for me to start with that will ultimately put it right in the 5500-6K range WOT with a similar boat in this load range? I am not a continual WOT type of guy myself, I would like to prop it ultimately so it will be most efficient but I usually run one in the 4K range cruising or just slightly better unless I am trying to get in to avoid a wet butt occasionally.","Well, new props are worth $ and larger service centers have piles of new or referb'd props laying around and in stock. Any reputable, local dealer will offer you $ for that prop if you elect to purchase a replacement from them that they have in stock and suits your needs. They won't offer retail price credit against another but they'll give you something for it and let you try all the other props they may have in stock or may need to order that is a good match for your needs.","Well, new props are worth $ and larger service centers have piles of new or referb'd props laying around and in stock. Any reputable, local dealer will offer you $ for that prop if you elect to purchase a replacement from them that they have in stock and suits your needs. They won't offer retail price credit against another but they'll give you something for it and let you try all the other props they may have in stock or may need to order that is a good match for your needs.","Go to the top left of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" scroll down to ""gas inboards"", then click on the Volvo Penta Forum. Post your question there. And as Bondo recommended, post more information about the engine, outdrive and year. Pictures of exactly what is broken would be most helpful. + +Used replacement parts are fairly plentiful on eBay." +"Hi, +The lower unit of my Yamaha 60FEO 3 cylinder, 2 stroke (1988) cracked beyond repare. + +I found a Yamaha 60CE engine (60CE 6F0 3007G) and my question is if I can mount that lower unit on my Yamaha 60FEO. +On pictures is looks the same, but I am not sure it really fits. + +Any advice is warmly welcome! + +Thanks, Elmer",Check spline count and length of driveshaft,Check spline count and length of driveshaft,What type of oil you using and is all the plugs fouling or just one side? +"Hi, +The lower unit of my Yamaha 60FEO 3 cylinder, 2 stroke (1988) cracked beyond repare. + +I found a Yamaha 60CE engine (60CE 6F0 3007G) and my question is if I can mount that lower unit on my Yamaha 60FEO. +On pictures is looks the same, but I am not sure it really fits. + +Any advice is warmly welcome! + +Thanks, Elmer","johnnygjr said: + + + + Check spline count and length of driveshaft + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the promt advice. I will check. On a follow up question, so long rigg and short rigg engines of same model have different driveshaft lenghts? + +Cheers","johnnygjr said: + + + + Check spline count and length of driveshaft + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the promt advice. I will check. On a follow up question, so long rigg and short rigg engines of same model have different driveshaft lenghts? + +Cheers","Sounds like a breakdown in the electronics when engine warms up. Start troubleshooting the electrical system,CDI.com should help along with an digital multimeter" +"Hi, +The lower unit of my Yamaha 60FEO 3 cylinder, 2 stroke (1988) cracked beyond repare. + +I found a Yamaha 60CE engine (60CE 6F0 3007G) and my question is if I can mount that lower unit on my Yamaha 60FEO. +On pictures is looks the same, but I am not sure it really fits. + +Any advice is warmly welcome! + +Thanks, Elmer","That is correct, 15"",20"",25""for a few.","That is correct, 15"",20"",25""for a few.","Yamaha design = Acceptable +Yamaha construction = Superb +Yamaha data = Crap" +"Oil transfer pump is not pumping oil to small tank. only works with the toggle switch. Thinking maybe the sensor in small tank is bad, the horn will come on when oil level gets low but the pump does not come on. Any thought and Thanks for any input",Jump pump with 12 volts to see if it runs,Jump pump with 12 volts to see if it runs,"I know it's an old thread, but for anyone having this issue (like I did when I first got YDS), this might be useful. + +You have to configure one of your laptop's USB ports for communication. It's hard to tell from the list in the Device Manager, but just plug in the cable to one of the ports, turn the key to the ON position, then go to Start Menu > (search) Device Manager. In the Device Manager, go to 'View > Show Hidden Devices'. Then under 'Ports (COM & LPT)' in the Device Manager list, you should see ""USB Serial Port"". Right click on that, and select 'Properties > Port Settings > Advanced', and find the 'COM Port Number'. It's probably set to COM1. Try changing it to COM2, COM3, and so on (i.e. however many USB ports your laptop has), then click Ok. Each time you change it, re-launch the YDIS application and unplug/reconnect the cable from the laptop. That works for me on both Windows 7 and 10. I would expect Vista to also work." +"Oil transfer pump is not pumping oil to small tank. only works with the toggle switch. Thinking maybe the sensor in small tank is bad, the horn will come on when oil level gets low but the pump does not come on. Any thought and Thanks for any input","the pump runs with the toggle switch. this is a new pump, just will not turn on when level gets low in small tank","the pump runs with the toggle switch. this is a new pump, just will not turn on when level gets low in small tank",fiberglassing in stringers might work.anybody else? +"Oil transfer pump is not pumping oil to small tank. only works with the toggle switch. Thinking maybe the sensor in small tank is bad, the horn will come on when oil level gets low but the pump does not come on. Any thought and Thanks for any input",When the level gets low check the wires from the sensor to the pump and see if you have power. Also check to see if you have power to the small tank sensor as that is basically just a switch,When the level gets low check the wires from the sensor to the pump and see if you have power. Also check to see if you have power to the small tank sensor as that is basically just a switch,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Good move nucad ,I would still run a larger gauge cable from battery to engine + +Click to expand... + +Yes, that makes sense. I'll get some longer cables made up ifI relocate the battery." +"Oil transfer pump is not pumping oil to small tank. only works with the toggle switch. Thinking maybe the sensor in small tank is bad, the horn will come on when oil level gets low but the pump does not come on. Any thought and Thanks for any input",i have pulled the sensor out so the float will slide down and the alarm will come on but the pump will not,i have pulled the sensor out so the float will slide down and the alarm will come on but the pump will not,I checked my fuses and found one that was blown. Yamaha had a spare fuse hanging near the fuse holder. This solved the problem. Great information and suggestions on this thread. +"Oil transfer pump is not pumping oil to small tank. only works with the toggle switch. Thinking maybe the sensor in small tank is bad, the horn will come on when oil level gets low but the pump does not come on. Any thought and Thanks for any input",Should be 2 steps to that sensor. The first kicks in the pump and the second the alarm other wise the alarm would go off every time the pump kicked in.,Should be 2 steps to that sensor. The first kicks in the pump and the second the alarm other wise the alarm would go off every time the pump kicked in.,that's another good possible way to do it and then cover it with heat shrink tubing. +"Oil transfer pump is not pumping oil to small tank. only works with the toggle switch. Thinking maybe the sensor in small tank is bad, the horn will come on when oil level gets low but the pump does not come on. Any thought and Thanks for any input",okay thanks will order the sensor,okay thanks will order the sensor,"rejesterd said: + + + + Check the compression in all cylinders. Considering the engine's age, the plug fouling, and everything you've already checked, that's where I'd be looking. I'm not sure what the spec is for minimum compression on your engine, but if you're getting anything less than 100 psi, I would say it's time to consider a new engine. + +Click to expand... + + +Compression checked out with 125psi in all 3 cylinders" +"Oil transfer pump is not pumping oil to small tank. only works with the toggle switch. Thinking maybe the sensor in small tank is bad, the horn will come on when oil level gets low but the pump does not come on. Any thought and Thanks for any input",Before you order a sensor check the connector on the main oil tank. Unplug the connector and first pull on each wire . If you find a broken wire at the pin you could push out the wire or pin .You have to release the pin before pushing it out. I had the same problem with the engine tank going down and the alarm sounding. I found the wire broken just behind the pin. I just soldiered the wire back on and was able to insert the pin again. Good luck.,Before you order a sensor check the connector on the main oil tank. Unplug the connector and first pull on each wire . If you find a broken wire at the pin you could push out the wire or pin .You have to release the pin before pushing it out. I had the same problem with the engine tank going down and the alarm sounding. I found the wire broken just behind the pin. I just soldiered the wire back on and was able to insert the pin again. Good luck.,67g l 1000305 q +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 60. Recently it started quitting whenever I am in neutral at idle. It will start good at idle and run for about 20-30 seconds then quit. If I increase throttle in neutral it will stay running, but if I increase the idle adjustment (I had it up to 1200 RPM) it will still quit when I shift to neutral. Yet if I throttle to 1200 RPM in neutral it will stay running. +It runs fine in gear even at low speed and starts easily in neutral at idle. +I've checked the fuel filter and did the link adjustment on the carburetors (I have the service manual) and have played with the idle adjustment screw. +I've also replaced the spark plugs.",You set the idle speed with the engine IN THE WATER right? (not on land running on earmuffs). Idle set on land running on earmuffs will seldom let the engine idle when it is in the water (exhaust back-pressure). It may start in the water but it will seldom keep running (learned this the hard way like everything else).,You set the idle speed with the engine IN THE WATER right? (not on land running on earmuffs). Idle set on land running on earmuffs will seldom let the engine idle when it is in the water (exhaust back-pressure). It may start in the water but it will seldom keep running (learned this the hard way like everything else).,"Limited knowledge of a great boat Mechanic in my area who is trustworthy, I live in Lake City, fl" +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 60. Recently it started quitting whenever I am in neutral at idle. It will start good at idle and run for about 20-30 seconds then quit. If I increase throttle in neutral it will stay running, but if I increase the idle adjustment (I had it up to 1200 RPM) it will still quit when I shift to neutral. Yet if I throttle to 1200 RPM in neutral it will stay running. +It runs fine in gear even at low speed and starts easily in neutral at idle. +I've checked the fuel filter and did the link adjustment on the carburetors (I have the service manual) and have played with the idle adjustment screw. +I've also replaced the spark plugs.",Yes the boat is in the water. All my observations and adjustments are with the boat in the water.,Yes the boat is in the water. All my observations and adjustments are with the boat in the water.,"Are you sure you are looking at the throttle butterflies ?----Or the other set which is the choke flappers ?---And does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or better on all 3 leads ?" +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 60. Recently it started quitting whenever I am in neutral at idle. It will start good at idle and run for about 20-30 seconds then quit. If I increase throttle in neutral it will stay running, but if I increase the idle adjustment (I had it up to 1200 RPM) it will still quit when I shift to neutral. Yet if I throttle to 1200 RPM in neutral it will stay running. +It runs fine in gear even at low speed and starts easily in neutral at idle. +I've checked the fuel filter and did the link adjustment on the carburetors (I have the service manual) and have played with the idle adjustment screw. +I've also replaced the spark plugs.","I'd buy 2-3 cans of jet spray carb cleaner and pull the carbs, break them down and give them a good cleaning... Blast carb cleaner through every hole and orifice you can find. Carb cleaner is CHEAP so use ALOT of it. Remember to back out the brass fuel jets and make sure the orifices in them are perfectly clean and clear. Seems like everything needs pulled and cleaned on a regular basis if you are burning ethanol-blended gas (whether you are adding a fuel stabilizer or not). That's where I'd start as it is not difficult and seems to be the root of many idling/running problems. Don't listen to anyone who says you need to buy new gaskets and such when you pull the carbs. I've pulled carbs over and over again and used all the same gaskets without a single issue. At the least, you'll have eliminated one of the most common causes of such problems.","I'd buy 2-3 cans of jet spray carb cleaner and pull the carbs, break them down and give them a good cleaning... Blast carb cleaner through every hole and orifice you can find. Carb cleaner is CHEAP so use ALOT of it. Remember to back out the brass fuel jets and make sure the orifices in them are perfectly clean and clear. Seems like everything needs pulled and cleaned on a regular basis if you are burning ethanol-blended gas (whether you are adding a fuel stabilizer or not). That's where I'd start as it is not difficult and seems to be the root of many idling/running problems. Don't listen to anyone who says you need to buy new gaskets and such when you pull the carbs. I've pulled carbs over and over again and used all the same gaskets without a single issue. At the least, you'll have eliminated one of the most common causes of such problems.",Just check it and yes it does jump a 1 cm gap on all 3 leads. +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 60. Recently it started quitting whenever I am in neutral at idle. It will start good at idle and run for about 20-30 seconds then quit. If I increase throttle in neutral it will stay running, but if I increase the idle adjustment (I had it up to 1200 RPM) it will still quit when I shift to neutral. Yet if I throttle to 1200 RPM in neutral it will stay running. +It runs fine in gear even at low speed and starts easily in neutral at idle. +I've checked the fuel filter and did the link adjustment on the carburetors (I have the service manual) and have played with the idle adjustment screw. +I've also replaced the spark plugs.",I did the carburetor clean up as suggested. It appears to have solved the idle problem. What convinced me was a simple test. This motor uses an enriching pump and an exothermal valve instead of a choke. There is a manual valve on the pump which is normally in the automatic position. This position provides additional gas when the engine starts cold and slowly reduces the gas over a few minutes. If I switch this to the open position (this provides additional gas all the time) the motor would run without stalling. This suggests the problem was inadequate gas flow at idle.,I did the carburetor clean up as suggested. It appears to have solved the idle problem. What convinced me was a simple test. This motor uses an enriching pump and an exothermal valve instead of a choke. There is a manual valve on the pump which is normally in the automatic position. This position provides additional gas when the engine starts cold and slowly reduces the gas over a few minutes. If I switch this to the open position (this provides additional gas all the time) the motor would run without stalling. This suggests the problem was inadequate gas flow at idle.,"Seals are not damaged when an impeller is changed !----In a cold / freezing climate ??-----Yamaha seals sometimes are "" all rubber "" and may not grip in housings after many years.-----Not an impossible job to install a seal kit yourself." +"I have a 2004 Yamaha 60. Recently it started quitting whenever I am in neutral at idle. It will start good at idle and run for about 20-30 seconds then quit. If I increase throttle in neutral it will stay running, but if I increase the idle adjustment (I had it up to 1200 RPM) it will still quit when I shift to neutral. Yet if I throttle to 1200 RPM in neutral it will stay running. +It runs fine in gear even at low speed and starts easily in neutral at idle. +I've checked the fuel filter and did the link adjustment on the carburetors (I have the service manual) and have played with the idle adjustment screw. +I've also replaced the spark plugs.","Glat to hear you're up and running. If at all possible, ALWAYS run 100% gasoline that is usually available at marinas and a few select local gas stations (ask around and you can search for them on line that sell 100% gas) and run the Marine Green Color Sta-Bil ALL THE TIME (not just for storage). After wrenching my way in and out of my outboard enough times with probs caused by that damned ethanol I'll never put in my boat again. It costs a a bit more but who wants to rig all the rods, get all the snacks and subs made, pack up all the stuff and kids only to have an issue and another day of wrenching on engine eating that sub sandwich that was meant for a great day on the water during a break from the wrenching? I bet 3/4 of the no idle/rough running/no power problems reported here are caused by fuel issues from running gas with 10% ethanol from gas stations. It took me several times in and out of my engine fixing probs caused by that ethanol crap because I was cheap and my engine was rated for 10% ethanol si I figured no problem. Works fine in a car that gets driven every day... absolute disaster in in boats that don't.","Glat to hear you're up and running. If at all possible, ALWAYS run 100% gasoline that is usually available at marinas and a few select local gas stations (ask around and you can search for them on line that sell 100% gas) and run the Marine Green Color Sta-Bil ALL THE TIME (not just for storage). After wrenching my way in and out of my outboard enough times with probs caused by that damned ethanol I'll never put in my boat again. It costs a a bit more but who wants to rig all the rods, get all the snacks and subs made, pack up all the stuff and kids only to have an issue and another day of wrenching on engine eating that sub sandwich that was meant for a great day on the water during a break from the wrenching? I bet 3/4 of the no idle/rough running/no power problems reported here are caused by fuel issues from running gas with 10% ethanol from gas stations. It took me several times in and out of my engine fixing probs caused by that ethanol crap because I was cheap and my engine was rated for 10% ethanol si I figured no problem. Works fine in a car that gets driven every day... absolute disaster in in boats that don't.","A simple test is to see how easily the cable will bend at the edge of the crimp, or pull hard on the terminal end and see if the connector moves or pulls right off. If it bends really easily it is probably bad." +"I have a 2004 Yamaha V Max 200 HP. After I fish in 95-95degree weather for 30-40 minutes, I have to try cranking the engine three or four times before enough gas gets back up into the carburetor. I have tried a new bulb and a new fuel line assembly connecting to the fuel intake at the engine. Same problem. Do you have any suggestions of how to correct this problem? Thanks, Greg Williams",Not sure if your engine is affected but you should always allow the engine to cool down at idle in neutral for 4-5 minutes after a longer run or a high-speed run. Shutting down immediately after a long or high speed run lets all the water drain from the engine and it can superheat inside the cowling causing gas (and especially ethanol in ethanol blended fule if you are running it) to boil/vaporize which creates an ultra-rich mix (some call vapor lock) in the engine. Try letting it idle 4-5 minutes before shutting down and see if the problem goes away. What you think could be a lack of fuel could be too much fuel vapor in the intake and the excessive cranking before firing is effectively sucking that over-rich vapor mix through and blowing it out unit you get enough oxygen coming in for combustion to occure. Too much fuel/too rich fuel-air mix can mimmick not enough fuel and presents the exact same starting problems.,Not sure if your engine is affected but you should always allow the engine to cool down at idle in neutral for 4-5 minutes after a longer run or a high-speed run. Shutting down immediately after a long or high speed run lets all the water drain from the engine and it can superheat inside the cowling causing gas (and especially ethanol in ethanol blended fule if you are running it) to boil/vaporize which creates an ultra-rich mix (some call vapor lock) in the engine. Try letting it idle 4-5 minutes before shutting down and see if the problem goes away. What you think could be a lack of fuel could be too much fuel vapor in the intake and the excessive cranking before firing is effectively sucking that over-rich vapor mix through and blowing it out unit you get enough oxygen coming in for combustion to occure. Too much fuel/too rich fuel-air mix can mimmick not enough fuel and presents the exact same starting problems.,Remove the carb and check it carefully for loose fuel line connections- the needle valve also might not be seating properly and is causing flooding. +"My 2004 Yamaha 200HP 4 stroke engine won't turnover. I first thought it was the battery but I'm pretty sure now that it's not. I used heavy duty jumper cables from my running truck directly to the outboards starter. the starters gear engages the flywheel but from that point it only clicks. I pulled the spark plugs out of the engine thinking the engine might be seized up and it does exactly the same thing, just clicks...... I can rotate the flywheel easily with my hands when the spark plugs are out so I figure the inners of the engine are fine. + +Any thoughts on what the problem might be? + +thank you in advance.....",Takee your starter off and have it tested--pep boys will do it. you may find that it is just a faulty solenoid.,Takee your starter off and have it tested--pep boys will do it. you may find that it is just a faulty solenoid.,"I get you, but this is NOT in contact with the boat parts- it's all in bags that are impermeable, above the water line, sealed into compartments." +"My 2004 Yamaha 200HP 4 stroke engine won't turnover. I first thought it was the battery but I'm pretty sure now that it's not. I used heavy duty jumper cables from my running truck directly to the outboards starter. the starters gear engages the flywheel but from that point it only clicks. I pulled the spark plugs out of the engine thinking the engine might be seized up and it does exactly the same thing, just clicks...... I can rotate the flywheel easily with my hands when the spark plugs are out so I figure the inners of the engine are fine. + +Any thoughts on what the problem might be? + +thank you in advance.....","bumperfood said: + + + + Takee your starter off and have it tested--pep boys will do it. you may find that it is just a faulty solenoid. + +Click to expand... + + +thank you! I'll give that a shot.....","bumperfood said: + + + + Takee your starter off and have it tested--pep boys will do it. you may find that it is just a faulty solenoid. + +Click to expand... + + +thank you! I'll give that a shot.....","like suggested before, you don't want to ignore or 'flat rate' this one.....until you know what the issue is, its just speculation..... + +Once you find the breach, make sure it is thoroughly ""dry"" before you attempt any repair - not much will stick to wet fiberglass for a long period of time..." +"My 2004 Yamaha 200HP 4 stroke engine won't turnover. I first thought it was the battery but I'm pretty sure now that it's not. I used heavy duty jumper cables from my running truck directly to the outboards starter. the starters gear engages the flywheel but from that point it only clicks. I pulled the spark plugs out of the engine thinking the engine might be seized up and it does exactly the same thing, just clicks...... I can rotate the flywheel easily with my hands when the spark plugs are out so I figure the inners of the engine are fine. + +Any thoughts on what the problem might be? + +thank you in advance.....",or a corroded battery cable,or a corroded battery cable,"Rwbutler said: + + + + Tunnel hull boat? Jack plate? + +Click to expand... + +230 cobia walk around . motor is one hole from being as low as it can go. +If i get above idle in gear it does fine" +"My 2004 Yamaha 200HP 4 stroke engine won't turnover. I first thought it was the battery but I'm pretty sure now that it's not. I used heavy duty jumper cables from my running truck directly to the outboards starter. the starters gear engages the flywheel but from that point it only clicks. I pulled the spark plugs out of the engine thinking the engine might be seized up and it does exactly the same thing, just clicks...... I can rotate the flywheel easily with my hands when the spark plugs are out so I figure the inners of the engine are fine. + +Any thoughts on what the problem might be? + +thank you in advance.....","This issue is most often a corroded terminal on one of the battery cables or a faulty battery switch if you have one. The terminals might look fine if they are heat shrinked, but usually a faulty one will bend at the end of the terminal crimp much easier than a good one.","This issue is most often a corroded terminal on one of the battery cables or a faulty battery switch if you have one. The terminals might look fine if they are heat shrinked, but usually a faulty one will bend at the end of the terminal crimp much easier than a good one.","?----Are you testing on a hose ?----What are the local atmospheric conditions ?------It is "" cooling "" water that has cooled the motor and the exhaust , so yes when you put your hand there it will be warm !-----Test with boat in the lake." +"My 2004 Yamaha 200HP 4 stroke engine won't turnover. I first thought it was the battery but I'm pretty sure now that it's not. I used heavy duty jumper cables from my running truck directly to the outboards starter. the starters gear engages the flywheel but from that point it only clicks. I pulled the spark plugs out of the engine thinking the engine might be seized up and it does exactly the same thing, just clicks...... I can rotate the flywheel easily with my hands when the spark plugs are out so I figure the inners of the engine are fine. + +Any thoughts on what the problem might be? + +thank you in advance.....","Year and serial#s help.The starter is easy to check.Take it apart clean the brushes. +Sometimes the jumper cables won't be enough. +When you go to Pep-Boys or Auto Zone or who evers in your neighborhood(profile,location)take your batter along and get it tested. +Or,Harbor Freight, Battery Tester about $25.Saves a lot of trip to the auto parts store.J","Year and serial#s help.The starter is easy to check.Take it apart clean the brushes. +Sometimes the jumper cables won't be enough. +When you go to Pep-Boys or Auto Zone or who evers in your neighborhood(profile,location)take your batter along and get it tested. +Or,Harbor Freight, Battery Tester about $25.Saves a lot of trip to the auto parts store.J",Circuit breakers are wired in series with the power lead. So there is power going in from the battery and power going out to the equipment. +"My 2004 Yamaha 200HP 4 stroke engine won't turnover. I first thought it was the battery but I'm pretty sure now that it's not. I used heavy duty jumper cables from my running truck directly to the outboards starter. the starters gear engages the flywheel but from that point it only clicks. I pulled the spark plugs out of the engine thinking the engine might be seized up and it does exactly the same thing, just clicks...... I can rotate the flywheel easily with my hands when the spark plugs are out so I figure the inners of the engine are fine. + +Any thoughts on what the problem might be? + +thank you in advance.....","smartcar.passion said: + + + +My 2004 Yamaha 200HP 4 stroke engine won't turnover. I first thought it was the battery but I'm pretty sure now that it's not. I used heavy duty jumper cables from my running truck directly to the outboards starter. the starters gear engages the flywheel but from that point it only clicks. I pulled the spark plugs out of the engine thinking the engine might be seized up and it does exactly the same thing, just clicks...... I can rotate the flywheel easily with my hands when the spark plugs are out so I figure the inners of the engine are fine. + +Any thoughts on what the problem might be? + +thank you in advance..... + +Click to expand... + + +Been a while, but this sounds like a hydro locked motor. Mercury had a defective design on a $20 vacuum hose that they run in the fuel pump housing and it ruptures sucking fuel directly into the intake manifold flooding the lower cylinder. This locks up the motor and can destroy the starter and take a big chunk of life out of your battery as it tries to turn over this locked up motor. I suppose you could be so unlucky to have this happen when underway and locking up the cylinder could do internal damage (bent rod?). Also, your cylinder wall oil will be washed off and the excess gas will also get into your oil (ever hear of mercury 4-strokes making oil?). So watch out for this defective design. Ask me how I know. Mercury was no help at all with this and did not acknowledge the horrible design defect. They did offer to sell me a new hose at full price (it turns out its a much higher PSI rated hose than the originals that fail. duh. So anyway, hope this helps someone fix their motor if they have this problem or avoid a manufacturer that has poor designs and offers no help to customers when their defective design causes downtime and damage to the motors they sell. + +Also, if you have a 4-stroke mercury check the air filter. Mine was deteriorating so badly when I touched it the foam crumbled. There are reports of engines sucking in the foam that deteriorates on these again, poorly designed filters. They were replaced with a pricey new P/N(take advantage of a poor design needing replacement) $85 metal element filter that is what should have been there to start with. Glad I caught the air filter issue when fixing the other defect. Prior to my 2006 merc 115 4-stroke I had a reliable 1972 Johnson 50hp that had none of these horrible design issues.","smartcar.passion said: + + + +My 2004 Yamaha 200HP 4 stroke engine won't turnover. I first thought it was the battery but I'm pretty sure now that it's not. I used heavy duty jumper cables from my running truck directly to the outboards starter. the starters gear engages the flywheel but from that point it only clicks. I pulled the spark plugs out of the engine thinking the engine might be seized up and it does exactly the same thing, just clicks...... I can rotate the flywheel easily with my hands when the spark plugs are out so I figure the inners of the engine are fine. + +Any thoughts on what the problem might be? + +thank you in advance..... + +Click to expand... + + +Been a while, but this sounds like a hydro locked motor. Mercury had a defective design on a $20 vacuum hose that they run in the fuel pump housing and it ruptures sucking fuel directly into the intake manifold flooding the lower cylinder. This locks up the motor and can destroy the starter and take a big chunk of life out of your battery as it tries to turn over this locked up motor. I suppose you could be so unlucky to have this happen when underway and locking up the cylinder could do internal damage (bent rod?). Also, your cylinder wall oil will be washed off and the excess gas will also get into your oil (ever hear of mercury 4-strokes making oil?). So watch out for this defective design. Ask me how I know. Mercury was no help at all with this and did not acknowledge the horrible design defect. They did offer to sell me a new hose at full price (it turns out its a much higher PSI rated hose than the originals that fail. duh. So anyway, hope this helps someone fix their motor if they have this problem or avoid a manufacturer that has poor designs and offers no help to customers when their defective design causes downtime and damage to the motors they sell. + +Also, if you have a 4-stroke mercury check the air filter. Mine was deteriorating so badly when I touched it the foam crumbled. There are reports of engines sucking in the foam that deteriorates on these again, poorly designed filters. They were replaced with a pricey new P/N(take advantage of a poor design needing replacement) $85 metal element filter that is what should have been there to start with. Glad I caught the air filter issue when fixing the other defect. Prior to my 2006 merc 115 4-stroke I had a reliable 1972 Johnson 50hp that had none of these horrible design issues.","""Robert...would be interested + +""Robert...would be interested in any sources you have for the 2010 Yamaha, particularly the F40. I checked all the usual places but no real info there. + +On the fuel problem, everyone indicates that the main problem is with moisture being drawn into the system and fuel that is old enough to degrade or phase separate. The moisture problem will continue until someone figures out how to put a collapsing bladder in the fuel tank so there won't have to be a vent. Only problem I can see with that is not having a fuel gauge. Second problem is easier....buy the gas, use stabalizer, and use it up.""" +"I just bought a new pontoon with new Yamaha 250 vmax sho outboard. I take to the lake three time for 5hour.and I found engine is not performing good. Bad smell in smoke look like engine is overheating but not sure slowing down.I came back and when the engine is cool I check the engine oil dip stick was surprise it shows too much oil almost more then twice of two mark point. + +I took to the dealer he said sorry to me for there mistake he also verified it is twice the oil what it should be.... but my question how much it effect the the engine. If not then might be in long run. Because we push too much and we put the too much presser on engine. I want to know the possibility","Unbelievable! Twice the oil that should have been in the engine? Overfilling a 4-stroke's oil can be (and is) a very bad thing. Unlike a car, cylinders in an outboard are horizontal, not verticle. The question is how much oil was forced into the lowest cylinders and was any damage caused. Obviously oil was being forced around the rings if it was smoking as you explained and, rest assured, there was excessive stress being placed on components as it wasn't performing as it should have been. + +I personally would take it to a local mechanic (any auto mechanic will do) and have them check the compression on all cylinders. It won't take more than a few minutes. I wouldn't take it to another Yamaha dealer as they are thick as thieves (just like contractors) and any will know exactly where the engine came from when they search the serial # in the Yamaha database. If the lower cylinders read less compression than the top cylinders I'd be taking those readings back to the dealer and telling them they have a major problem on their hands and you don't want that engine back until all cylinders are reading virtually identical compression... I mean, its a brand new engine! That dealer that screwed up will never tell you the engine could have been damaged and they certainly aren't going to run compression checks on the cylinders to confirm any damage they may have caused. Simply draining oil will stop the smoking and it will run better but is it running like a brand new engine should that you've never had the opportunity to get used to and establish a mental baseline for what normal operation is? You'll never know. + +I'll be interested to hear other responses but this is the 1st thought that comes to my mind.","Unbelievable! Twice the oil that should have been in the engine? Overfilling a 4-stroke's oil can be (and is) a very bad thing. Unlike a car, cylinders in an outboard are horizontal, not verticle. The question is how much oil was forced into the lowest cylinders and was any damage caused. Obviously oil was being forced around the rings if it was smoking as you explained and, rest assured, there was excessive stress being placed on components as it wasn't performing as it should have been. + +I personally would take it to a local mechanic (any auto mechanic will do) and have them check the compression on all cylinders. It won't take more than a few minutes. I wouldn't take it to another Yamaha dealer as they are thick as thieves (just like contractors) and any will know exactly where the engine came from when they search the serial # in the Yamaha database. If the lower cylinders read less compression than the top cylinders I'd be taking those readings back to the dealer and telling them they have a major problem on their hands and you don't want that engine back until all cylinders are reading virtually identical compression... I mean, its a brand new engine! That dealer that screwed up will never tell you the engine could have been damaged and they certainly aren't going to run compression checks on the cylinders to confirm any damage they may have caused. Simply draining oil will stop the smoking and it will run better but is it running like a brand new engine should that you've never had the opportunity to get used to and establish a mental baseline for what normal operation is? You'll never know. + +I'll be interested to hear other responses but this is the 1st thought that comes to my mind.",rest of the engine looks great. there are no threads that i can see. +"I just bought a new pontoon with new Yamaha 250 vmax sho outboard. I take to the lake three time for 5hour.and I found engine is not performing good. Bad smell in smoke look like engine is overheating but not sure slowing down.I came back and when the engine is cool I check the engine oil dip stick was surprise it shows too much oil almost more then twice of two mark point. + +I took to the dealer he said sorry to me for there mistake he also verified it is twice the oil what it should be.... but my question how much it effect the the engine. If not then might be in long run. Because we push too much and we put the too much presser on engine. I want to know the possibility",I concur with deepsea dealer screwed up somewhere Time to call the big guns at yamaha and your lawyer,I concur with deepsea dealer screwed up somewhere Time to call the big guns at yamaha and your lawyer,"Probably a stuck 'bendix' on the starter. You can take the starter off and clean the bendix if it is just a bit of dirt, but it may also be broken, so depends what you find. A quick squirt of CRC, WD40 etc may get you going if it is just a bit dirty, but if you do that, take the starter off and clean the bendix afterwards as you don't want to leave it oily." +"Novice...trying to replace my starter. I have the two top bolts off but I don't see any other bolts on the bottom. It won't come off, but I can't see how it's connected on the bottom. Trying to do this on the water!",See if there's a diagram on this web site or order a shop manual on line,See if there's a diagram on this web site or order a shop manual on line,use tc-w3..i prefer a brand name..with the price of new motors and the cost of parts and labor and with ethanol i used a gas treatment year round...in fact i use both a cleaner and a treatment available at your local dealer...a bottle of each will cost around 20 bucks but they will last you a year with a 20 hp... +"Hi I""m trying to hook up my kicker to steer from my helm +the ez steer I have now means I have to lean off the back of my motors to hook up which is way to dangerous. +the way my main and kicker are located on my transom means hooking up a mechanical rod is impractical. +so I'm looking at a Panther or Python. they would work but my budget does not allow a $grand. + +so i'm looking at a linear actuator, looks like it'll work at way less cost but i'm looking for ideas on how to hook it all up. + +I've a 2014 Yamaha 8hp kicker with tiller steer +I figure I can mount the linear actuator to the two stainless hex bolts (longer) in the picture below. +now I""m looking for ideas on how to hook up the actuator to the motor itself + +any ideas? + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1gaEEN6txI +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNcnYEYNs6Q","eric80 said: + + + + Hi I""m trying to hook up my kicker to steer from my helm +the ez steer I have now means I have to lean off the back of my motors to hook up which is way to dangerous. +the way my main and kicker are located on my transom means hooking up a mechanical rod is impractical. +so I'm looking at a Panther or Python. they would work but my budget does not allow a $grand. + +so i'm looking at a linear actuator, looks like it'll work at way less cost but i'm looking for ideas on how to hook it all up. + +I've a 2014 Yamaha 8hp kicker with tiller steer +I figure I can mount the linear actuator to the two stainless hex bolts (longer) in the picture below. +now I""m looking for ideas on how to hook up the actuator to the motor itself + +any ideas? + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1gaEEN6txI +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNcnYEYNs6Q + +Click to expand... + + +I personally don't like linking a kicker's steering to the main engine or the primary steering although many people do it. If you have a steering failure that renders your main engine useless and it's cocked when it fails you can find yourself on the water trying to disconnect the kicker from a tie bar or hydraulic linkage tied into the same hydraulic steering so you don't putt around in circles. I say leave the kicker independent so it can be lowered, fired up, and then steer with the main engine allowing it to act as a rudder. Given a steering failure, you can tilt the main engine up out of the water and still steer with the kicker handle alone that has remained independent... it's not like your going to be going fast or bounce out the back of the boat running on an 8HP kicker.","eric80 said: + + + + Hi I""m trying to hook up my kicker to steer from my helm +the ez steer I have now means I have to lean off the back of my motors to hook up which is way to dangerous. +the way my main and kicker are located on my transom means hooking up a mechanical rod is impractical. +so I'm looking at a Panther or Python. they would work but my budget does not allow a $grand. + +so i'm looking at a linear actuator, looks like it'll work at way less cost but i'm looking for ideas on how to hook it all up. + +I've a 2014 Yamaha 8hp kicker with tiller steer +I figure I can mount the linear actuator to the two stainless hex bolts (longer) in the picture below. +now I""m looking for ideas on how to hook up the actuator to the motor itself + +any ideas? + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1gaEEN6txI +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNcnYEYNs6Q + +Click to expand... + + +I personally don't like linking a kicker's steering to the main engine or the primary steering although many people do it. If you have a steering failure that renders your main engine useless and it's cocked when it fails you can find yourself on the water trying to disconnect the kicker from a tie bar or hydraulic linkage tied into the same hydraulic steering so you don't putt around in circles. I say leave the kicker independent so it can be lowered, fired up, and then steer with the main engine allowing it to act as a rudder. Given a steering failure, you can tilt the main engine up out of the water and still steer with the kicker handle alone that has remained independent... it's not like your going to be going fast or bounce out the back of the boat running on an 8HP kicker.","it should be a left handed rotation engine....which is normal or auto in its direction....reference is to look at flywheel - if top moves to left, its left handed... + +2x the mention on the electrical items being 'different' - same for the carbs. using auto stuff for either will usually nullify your insurance if there's a mishap.... + +finally the internals are from the auto realm...its the combination that's application specific due to the continuous load factor the engine sees...rarely is there benefit from deviating from factory values...." +It seems like I have to disconnect the fuel line to get at the t-stats on my outboard. Any advice on how to do this the correct way? Thank you for any input you may have.,Cut the wire ties and remove the screws that hold the plastic piece that holds the fuel lines and you should be able to move everything just enough to get to the tstats.,Cut the wire ties and remove the screws that hold the plastic piece that holds the fuel lines and you should be able to move everything just enough to get to the tstats.,2005 Yamaha 150hp 2 stroke 150TXRD +"Hi -- having some engine problems and this seems like a good place for advice... + +We have a 1999 200hp Yamaha 2 stroke. Engine runs well, has only 250 hours. + +The other day, after hitting some waves, I noticed the boat slow down slightly while going down the wave. Thought it was cavitation, but it got worse with each wave we hit, becoming a sudden deceleration each time. Eventually, the loss of power would last beyond the wave, and even after we were through waves, the boat would have power issues. Now, the problem is permanent, and if you accelerate quickly, the boat will lurch to idle, then reaccelerate, then lurch again. However, if you accelerate very slowly in flat water, the boat runs 100% fine, up to almost full throttle where it will cut out again. Once it cuts out it will keep cutting out every 5 seconds until you take off the throttle. + +It seems to me like a fuel issue - maybe fuel flow, water, or air in the lines. We've added Sea Foam fuel stabilizer (haven't checked the fuel filter yet, it's hard to access). When the problem started, we had an empty tank, but have refilled and it is still happening. + +Any ideas? Thanks!","Might have sucked up debris from bottom of tank into carburetor,filters, water/fuel separator, fuel pump and contaminated fuel lines","Might have sucked up debris from bottom of tank into carburetor,filters, water/fuel separator, fuel pump and contaminated fuel lines","Is the stain on the gel coat of a hull made of fiberglass? If so, I've been pleased with the results of using Davis ""Fiberglass Stain Remover"". It comes in plastic jar labelled ""FSR"". The product is a gel that I apply with a rag (wearing rubber gloves). It takes a little scrubbing with the rag and leaving it on for a few minutes, but when you come back with a clean dampened rag, the stains come right off. + +https://www.davisinstruments.com/product/fsr/" +"I have a sticky shifter on a 2012 F6. I brought to my Yamaha dealer and he said you have to take the powerhead off to fix it. Cost more than the engine. +He lubricated it and was a little better for a week or so. I lubricate it every week and it is getting worse now +Any ideas on how to fix it without a teardown?",What kind of engine are we talking about ? F6?? type of craft?,What kind of engine are we talking about ? F6?? type of craft?,"Stuart Allen said: + + + + Have you done a compression test on this motor? It is possible that the rings are very worn and fuel is getting past them, it is also possible that the valve guides are worn and fuel is getting up into the rocker cover. Is this was happening though it would undoubtedly be blowing a lot of smoke. The other possibility is that it is leaking from the fuel pump into the rocker cover and draining down into the sump from there. The fuel pump is driving off one of the cam lobes and there will no doubt be a seal between that may have failed. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +No I haven't I'll check on all that thanks for your time." +"I Don't get a Buzzer with key on and Lanyard pulled on my Yamaha, but it does kill the motor? Any idea's or how to check buzzer??? + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + 2012 F115","Apply 12 volts to it, Try grounding sensor wire to ground,can be found on top of cylinder head,usually a tan wire","Apply 12 volts to it, Try grounding sensor wire to ground,can be found on top of cylinder head,usually a tan wire",What was the outcome? I'm having the same issue... +just switched a 1989 yamaha 150 to a 2004 yamaha 150 2 stroke carb on my 180 outrage had to purchase the new tac to match up to the new engine took it out to try temp light flashing when key is turned on boat comes up on plain then reves up to4000 for about a minute then starts to shut down about 200 rpm in stages going into limp mode. The engine is not hot and tell tail has strong steam checked alarm buzzer not working unplugged no difference crossed temp sensor wires gage still just flashing ?,Long shot...are all the dip switches correct?,Long shot...are all the dip switches correct?,I just replaced the vacuum canister and all three small aluminum check valves. Still same problem. Pressure on the rail is around 44 psi. Injectors replaced after originals were cleaned several times...same problem or even worst after this +just switched a 1989 yamaha 150 to a 2004 yamaha 150 2 stroke carb on my 180 outrage had to purchase the new tac to match up to the new engine took it out to try temp light flashing when key is turned on boat comes up on plain then reves up to4000 for about a minute then starts to shut down about 200 rpm in stages going into limp mode. The engine is not hot and tell tail has strong steam checked alarm buzzer not working unplugged no difference crossed temp sensor wires gage still just flashing ?,"Check for codes,","Check for codes,","Thanks, I found my sticker but it's faded also." +just switched a 1989 yamaha 150 to a 2004 yamaha 150 2 stroke carb on my 180 outrage had to purchase the new tac to match up to the new engine took it out to try temp light flashing when key is turned on boat comes up on plain then reves up to4000 for about a minute then starts to shut down about 200 rpm in stages going into limp mode. The engine is not hot and tell tail has strong steam checked alarm buzzer not working unplugged no difference crossed temp sensor wires gage still just flashing ?,"Check and mske sure water jackets are not corroded. With the buzzer disconnected you get no auidable signal it going to limp mode because you are starting to overheat st higher rpms..remove hesds snd clean water jackets..i have heard of aprocedure to in duce murstic scid thru thrrmostst outlets lrt soak and thrn flush residue out but have not done it that eay.. + +You can verify this while underway ,engine cowling off.digital temp gun ,measure temp of cylinder heads..","Check and mske sure water jackets are not corroded. With the buzzer disconnected you get no auidable signal it going to limp mode because you are starting to overheat st higher rpms..remove hesds snd clean water jackets..i have heard of aprocedure to in duce murstic scid thru thrrmostst outlets lrt soak and thrn flush residue out but have not done it that eay.. + +You can verify this while underway ,engine cowling off.digital temp gun ,measure temp of cylinder heads..","Further troubleshooting has proven No spark. All 3 coils are within spec. + + + +ClassicAQ said: + + + + Bump and clunk, followed by rpm reduction to engine stall....these are not signs of a motor experiencing dirty carbs or fuel, poor spark or compression. I'd be checking your lower unit. Start with draining the gear oil into a container and look for metal shavings. The gear oil screw cap is magnetic, so look there for shavings. And of course if the gear oil is milky color, there's your problem. + +Click to expand..." +ordered a replacement lower unit and after about 10 hours of operation guy calls and tells me he has lost reverse. Still has forward but not reverse. what should i be looking at first Thanks,shift rod linkage adjustment,shift rod linkage adjustment,Oh I know that Yamaha data is confusing all right. Lots gets lost in the translation from Jap to English. +ordered a replacement lower unit and after about 10 hours of operation guy calls and tells me he has lost reverse. Still has forward but not reverse. what should i be looking at first Thanks,okay thanks will take a look at shifting. any ideal why after almost 10 hours of operation this would be a problem is this normal for a new lower unit?,okay thanks will take a look at shifting. any ideal why after almost 10 hours of operation this would be a problem is this normal for a new lower unit?,Chip all of that old foam out of the hull and go ahead and put in the deck. stragetically drill 2 inch holes in all the different sections and then use the poaring foam in each section and be prepared to do it all at once. What I did was keep the plugs you drilled out with a hole saw and as the foam expands you put the plug in the hole and seta weight on it. A gallon of pouring foam will be more than enough just mix small amounts at a time and have lots of mixing cups handy once you start to pour you dont want to stop. After the foam has cured you can shave and sand the deck flat and put a layer of glass and a good deck paint with grit. Where are you located I have three gallons of pouring foam looking for a home. +ordered a replacement lower unit and after about 10 hours of operation guy calls and tells me he has lost reverse. Still has forward but not reverse. what should i be looking at first Thanks,found shift cable to be the problem with the problem with the LU. outside case had split Thanks,found shift cable to be the problem with the problem with the LU. outside case had split Thanks,"Some balancers, when failed, shred their composite gears which can block oil passages. The shredded plastic can, repeat can, not will, cause bearings and other parts to become damaged.Due to a lack of oil. Sometimes resulting in the complete failure of the power plant. + +I would drain the oil and inspect for the presence of any debris in the oil. If a small amount, maybe no harm. If a large amount, then it is an unknown. + +Not a particularly big job to remove the balancer. An hour at most even for a first timer. For inspection. Once it is inspected you will have a better idea as to what to do. + +Balancer is at the front of the motor. https://www.simyamaha.com/v/vspfiles/images/F150 Balancer Replacement Instructions.pdf" +"Folks, + +I'm looking for a used boat. I've never had a Yamaha and know nothing about them. I see one I'm interested in with a 225 ox66. I'm told it has 275 hours on it and I assume it was all saltwater. I don't have any further information. What years were they made? In general (or specifically) how well do they preform? Any more information would be great. + +Thanks, +John","Very reliable motor. Thirsty on gas in the upper RPM ranges. +The OX66 Salt Water Series have almost a cult following due to their reliability. +Loud but mean sounding, Yamaha knows how to make 2 stroke horsepower.","Very reliable motor. Thirsty on gas in the upper RPM ranges. +The OX66 Salt Water Series have almost a cult following due to their reliability. +Loud but mean sounding, Yamaha knows how to make 2 stroke horsepower.","Got the old axle out and from center of hole to center of hole where the leaf springs mounts to the axle is 52-3/4"" um all axles I see for sale don't have that measurement what do I need to do don't have a welder or I would just buy a new spindle and weld it on will I be able to find an axle with these mounting measurments?" +"Folks, + +I'm looking for a used boat. I've never had a Yamaha and know nothing about them. I see one I'm interested in with a 225 ox66. I'm told it has 275 hours on it and I assume it was all saltwater. I don't have any further information. What years were they made? In general (or specifically) how well do they preform? Any more information would be great. + +Thanks, +John","I agree,very good motors","I agree,very good motors","Re: why is my post not showing up + +Battery, charging, isolation, inverting, switching questions +Hello I have a new to me 30 year old 27 foot Tiara with twin engines and no generator. +I’d like to set it up for my needs and am looking for suggestions and answers to electrical questions. + +My objective is to be able to overnight on the hook and run interior fans, refrigerator, lights, and charge phones off of battery power and still be able to start the engines in the morning. +I’d like to be able to charge any battery from either alternator. Does a battery isolator do this? I’ve seen isolators advertised like PROMARINER 1 ALTERNATOR 3 BATTERY ISOLATOR 70 AMP that seem to do this but its not clear to me if the alternator input is switched to all batteries. For example, if one of my alternators dies will the other still charge all 3 batteries?...if so how would I know if one of the alternators went bad? +I’d also like to be able to switch any battery bank to start either engine in an emergency. + +Current setup is: +· Two gas engines +o Mercruiser stern drive 5.7 L V8 Alphas carburated +· Two alternators +o Each tied to it’s own battery +· Two starting batteries +o Port battery also powers windlass +o Starboard battery powers all onboard house loads +· 30 year old permanent battery charger (no inverter) +o Question: is it advisable to leave the charger on while on shore power or will it cook my batteries? Boat sits at the dock during week and runs about 4 to 8 hours every weekend depending on the weather. +· An on / off battery switch for each motor/battery +· An on/off switch for the windlass +· An emergency momentary parallel switch on the dash + +My first questions are about batteries. I’d like to leave the house bank on overnight to run things. +1. How much battery do I need to run the fridge, 3 small fans and phone chargers? +2. Is it ok to just let the battery run down overnight till it’s out of power +a. Will that hurt the fridge? +b. Will that hurt the battery? +3. Should I add a dedicated 3rd house bank or beef up one or both of the current two batteries? +4. Should I do a 2 battery setup and make one the starting battery for both motors and one the house bank? +5. What kind of batteries? +a. Lead acid, AGM, other? +b. Run dual 6 volt batteries serialed to equal 12 volts? +c. Deep cycle vs startup for house and starting batteries (I assume there’s a reason for the term “start up”. +My next question is about inverters and isolators +1. When and why would I want to run ACHs vs a multi bank isolator? +2. Should I replace my old technology battery charger with a modern charger/inverter? +a. Does my AC/DC fridge run more efficiently on AC or DC? +b. It would be convenient to power on the electrical outlets for AC phone charging but I can also charge them on DC USB chargers…again is AC or DC more efficient? +c. What’s better inverter for my intended use (or do I need one at all)? Sine Wave VS modified Sine Wave +3. If I upgrade the charger can I leave it on all the time on shore power? + +next questions are on battery switches +1. If the answer to the battery question is to set up a 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] house battery bank, what is the recommended battery switch configuration that enables any of the 3 batteries to be switched to start either engine in an emergency +2. This question is easier if two battery banks are used…I’ve seen Blue Sea sells this set up pre configured +Lastly, I plan to install a multifunction battery gauge that measures volts and Amps and can be switched to read up to 3 banks of batteries. + +Thanks for reading this far and any recommendations you can offer. +I’m sure to have follow up questions J" +"Folks, + +I'm looking for a used boat. I've never had a Yamaha and know nothing about them. I see one I'm interested in with a 225 ox66. I'm told it has 275 hours on it and I assume it was all saltwater. I don't have any further information. What years were they made? In general (or specifically) how well do they preform? Any more information would be great. + +Thanks, +John","275 hours on that OB is nothing (IT IF HAS BEEN MAINTAINED). When I hear Saltwater use though and depending on where you live, some people who purchased those big engines back in the day (and the boat it was hung on) have been known to pay far less attention to their boat and motor as they did their cars. Before you buy it... insist on taking it to a reputable dealer for compression check and full inspection. I'll take a 600 hour motor I know has been maintained any day over a 275 hour motor that hasn't been.","275 hours on that OB is nothing (IT IF HAS BEEN MAINTAINED). When I hear Saltwater use though and depending on where you live, some people who purchased those big engines back in the day (and the boat it was hung on) have been known to pay far less attention to their boat and motor as they did their cars. Before you buy it... insist on taking it to a reputable dealer for compression check and full inspection. I'll take a 600 hour motor I know has been maintained any day over a 275 hour motor that hasn't been.","It actually looks like it is coming from in front of the shift shaft but I cant tell for sure. I will test it again out of the water and spray some soap on it and I should be able to tell. I don't see anything in the lower unit seal kit that looks like the right size for the shift shaft, is that a separate item?" +"It was late, trailer tire blew, took my kicker off, laid it down on the wrong side and now I have oil in my cylinders + +I pulled the plugs out, pulled the rip cord and got some oil out. + +any suggestions on getting more out? + +ad gas and keep pulling the cord till most of the oil has come out and I""m left with gas? +once left with gas get a turkey baster and suck the gas out? + +any quicker slicker ideas + +and do I have to pull the carb and clean it out? + +yamaha, 8hp 4 stroke 2014 2 cyl","Pull plugs and pull starter cord,that should expel most of the oil.leave upright for a while,check oil level,put plugs back in and fire it up,it will smoke a bit, probably foul plugs. Spray some carb. cleaner thru throat of carb. THen take her for a spin.","Pull plugs and pull starter cord,that should expel most of the oil.leave upright for a while,check oil level,put plugs back in and fire it up,it will smoke a bit, probably foul plugs. Spray some carb. cleaner thru throat of carb. THen take her for a spin.","""Bert + +Some, mine included + +""Bert + +Some, mine included do not have a mechanical or electrical lock out at or near the actuator. + +The forward brake pad in the drums has a special design that allows the pad to cam over and ""tuck in"" when the drum turns backwards so as not to apply pressure on the leading or forward shoe when backing up. + +If he has that type of drum brake system (it is easy to tell as the forward brake shoe pivots near the center. + +One more thing here.....you say you adjusted them? + +How did you do this? + +Boat trailers do not always adjust like auto drum brakes. + +My original said to adjust to drag and back off TEN clicks. My new actuator says 2-4 clicks. + +Maybe you should try loosening them a bit say 3-4 clicks first before spending any money.........""" +"It was late, trailer tire blew, took my kicker off, laid it down on the wrong side and now I have oil in my cylinders + +I pulled the plugs out, pulled the rip cord and got some oil out. + +any suggestions on getting more out? + +ad gas and keep pulling the cord till most of the oil has come out and I""m left with gas? +once left with gas get a turkey baster and suck the gas out? + +any quicker slicker ideas + +and do I have to pull the carb and clean it out? + +yamaha, 8hp 4 stroke 2014 2 cyl","Agree with Johnny (as usual) So long as you've turned the engine over with the plugs pulled with the plug openings pointed to the ground you'll have drained most all of the oil out and no worries about over-compression from oil-filled cylinders. It will smoke a bit when it fires but that it will quickly pass. This is an easy fix as starting it and burning off that oil will fix itself. Remember, in the old days we'd pull plugs and squirt a good shot of oil into the 2-stroke cylinders, turn the engine over a few times with plug wires removed to coat all cyl. walls and rings, then put it up for winter storage. They's always smoke like heck the next spring when you fired them up.","Agree with Johnny (as usual) So long as you've turned the engine over with the plugs pulled with the plug openings pointed to the ground you'll have drained most all of the oil out and no worries about over-compression from oil-filled cylinders. It will smoke a bit when it fires but that it will quickly pass. This is an easy fix as starting it and burning off that oil will fix itself. Remember, in the old days we'd pull plugs and squirt a good shot of oil into the 2-stroke cylinders, turn the engine over a few times with plug wires removed to coat all cyl. walls and rings, then put it up for winter storage. They's always smoke like heck the next spring when you fired them up.","keep in mind that a voltage drop will not show up unless you are drawing current. + +Click to expand... + + W/all due respect pappyson I disagree. I remember studying basic electricity/electronics during radar/missile school in 1969/1970. A corroded wire that has increased in resistance (bascially a giant resistor) will cause a voltage drop from one end to the other when measured from a common ground." +"It was late, trailer tire blew, took my kicker off, laid it down on the wrong side and now I have oil in my cylinders + +I pulled the plugs out, pulled the rip cord and got some oil out. + +any suggestions on getting more out? + +ad gas and keep pulling the cord till most of the oil has come out and I""m left with gas? +once left with gas get a turkey baster and suck the gas out? + +any quicker slicker ideas + +and do I have to pull the carb and clean it out? + +yamaha, 8hp 4 stroke 2014 2 cyl","deepsea21 said: + + + + Agree with Johnny (as usual) So long as you've turned the engine over with the plugs pulled with the plug openings pointed to the ground you'll have drained most all of the oil out and no worries about over-compression from oil-filled cylinders. It will smoke a bit when it fires but that it will quickly pass. This is an easy fix as starting it and burning off that oil will fix itself. Remember, in the old days we'd pull plugs and squirt a good shot of oil into the 2-stroke cylinders, turn the engine over a few times with plug wires removed to coat all cyl. walls and rings, then put it up for winter storage. They's always smoke like heck the next spring when you fired them up. + +Click to expand... + + +hi I Pulled the plugs, pulled the cord and it puked oil. +all over my mint motor, oh well cleaned that up. +then I took a look at the carb. air intake had oil residue so took the carb off, put the pieces on a nice clean piece of flat plastic, The float bowl was full of oil. Glad I didn't try to start it would have clogged my carb ports I""d think. sprayed carb cleaner religiously twice in and around the carb, put it back together, didnt use the chock and it started 2nd pull +thanks","deepsea21 said: + + + + Agree with Johnny (as usual) So long as you've turned the engine over with the plugs pulled with the plug openings pointed to the ground you'll have drained most all of the oil out and no worries about over-compression from oil-filled cylinders. It will smoke a bit when it fires but that it will quickly pass. This is an easy fix as starting it and burning off that oil will fix itself. Remember, in the old days we'd pull plugs and squirt a good shot of oil into the 2-stroke cylinders, turn the engine over a few times with plug wires removed to coat all cyl. walls and rings, then put it up for winter storage. They's always smoke like heck the next spring when you fired them up. + +Click to expand... + + +hi I Pulled the plugs, pulled the cord and it puked oil. +all over my mint motor, oh well cleaned that up. +then I took a look at the carb. air intake had oil residue so took the carb off, put the pieces on a nice clean piece of flat plastic, The float bowl was full of oil. Glad I didn't try to start it would have clogged my carb ports I""d think. sprayed carb cleaner religiously twice in and around the carb, put it back together, didnt use the chock and it started 2nd pull +thanks","Has anyone had an issue with an air lock in the VST? I.E. If the VST can't vent itself during low speed filling, could the back pressure from the trapped air prevent the lift pump from filling the VST? Just a guess." +"Hopefully someone can give me some direction with this problem. My f250 starts to run a little rough after a 1-2 hrs on the water. I have already replaced the fuel/water separator, and spark plugs. I have also done an oil change making sure not to overfill the engine, and a lower end service. Not sure where to go from here. It is frustrating because the engine runs great for the first hour or so.","Is engine running at normal temperature, Can you hold hand in telltale stream indefinitely? Possible heat build up under flywheel affecting stator assembly,ignition coils, etc.","Is engine running at normal temperature, Can you hold hand in telltale stream indefinitely? Possible heat build up under flywheel affecting stator assembly,ignition coils, etc.","did you ever find the answer to this? i dont have fuel spitting out anywhere, but i have the same issue of it bogging down and stalling when i put it in gear and give it some gas." +"Hopefully someone can give me some direction with this problem. My f250 starts to run a little rough after a 1-2 hrs on the water. I have already replaced the fuel/water separator, and spark plugs. I have also done an oil change making sure not to overfill the engine, and a lower end service. Not sure where to go from here. It is frustrating because the engine runs great for the first hour or so.","Could this be a result of the thermostat sticking, or are there other possible causes?","Could this be a result of the thermostat sticking, or are there other possible causes?","I hate to ask a question that may be obvious, but where would the adjustment be? At the powerhead end of the rod or in the leg?" +"Hopefully someone can give me some direction with this problem. My f250 starts to run a little rough after a 1-2 hrs on the water. I have already replaced the fuel/water separator, and spark plugs. I have also done an oil change making sure not to overfill the engine, and a lower end service. Not sure where to go from here. It is frustrating because the engine runs great for the first hour or so.","yes, Is she running hot,need questions answered.Could be excessive scale inside of engine,salt.bad impeller,t-stats,head gasket failure","yes, Is she running hot,need questions answered.Could be excessive scale inside of engine,salt.bad impeller,t-stats,head gasket failure",If its on the exhaust side it is the idle relief hole....hope you have a machine shop. +"Hopefully someone can give me some direction with this problem. My f250 starts to run a little rough after a 1-2 hrs on the water. I have already replaced the fuel/water separator, and spark plugs. I have also done an oil change making sure not to overfill the engine, and a lower end service. Not sure where to go from here. It is frustrating because the engine runs great for the first hour or so.","Sorry, I forgot to say that we did do the impeller as well. I'll pull the t-stats to see what they look like. Hopefully that is all that it is. Thank you for your help this far. I'll let you guys know how I make out.","Sorry, I forgot to say that we did do the impeller as well. I'll pull the t-stats to see what they look like. Hopefully that is all that it is. Thank you for your help this far. I'll let you guys know how I make out.",i would get rid of the switch..the only purpose of it is to be able to recharge your deep cycle trolling motor battery while running and your charging system is not designed to charge a run down battery..hook the batteries up to their respective loads and have them isolated from each other....have them fully charged when you launch the boat...just my opinion... +"Hopefully someone can give me some direction with this problem. My f250 starts to run a little rough after a 1-2 hrs on the water. I have already replaced the fuel/water separator, and spark plugs. I have also done an oil change making sure not to overfill the engine, and a lower end service. Not sure where to go from here. It is frustrating because the engine runs great for the first hour or so.","Jeff you have not answered our questions, Is the engine running hot???","Jeff you have not answered our questions, Is the engine running hot???","I've read all of this thread, but I have a different question. Please re-post it if it's in the wrong place. +The boat I just bought has some small punctures in the hull, small like dime size. It also has the gel coat worn off on the spline (?) of the bow. It's 18', trailered. Do I fill the holes with epoxy, and then paint the whole thing? Or take it to a nearby boat yard and have them take care of it (painting the bottom, etc.) If the boat yard is going to do the work, what kind of $$ should I expect to pay? + +Thanks." +"Hopefully someone can give me some direction with this problem. My f250 starts to run a little rough after a 1-2 hrs on the water. I have already replaced the fuel/water separator, and spark plugs. I have also done an oil change making sure not to overfill the engine, and a lower end service. Not sure where to go from here. It is frustrating because the engine runs great for the first hour or so.",I have not had a chance to check the tell tail yet. Will do in the a.m. Is it normal for the stream to be somewhat slow at idle? I have noticed that it does not come out strong until the rpm's come up. Keep in mind that the impeller is new.,I have not had a chance to check the tell tail yet. Will do in the a.m. Is it normal for the stream to be somewhat slow at idle? I have noticed that it does not come out strong until the rpm's come up. Keep in mind that the impeller is new.,"Yes that will work but it is only needed where the pedestal bases mount. Many people use 3/4"" sealed up with Fiberglas or epoxy and many install it to the deck and use T-bolts for the pedestals. I hope you are only talking about doing this for the seat pedestals and NOT doing the entire deck. If the deck is weak you should replace it the right way." +"Hopefully someone can give me some direction with this problem. My f250 starts to run a little rough after a 1-2 hrs on the water. I have already replaced the fuel/water separator, and spark plugs. I have also done an oil change making sure not to overfill the engine, and a lower end service. Not sure where to go from here. It is frustrating because the engine runs great for the first hour or so.","Telltale will increase with rpms. Was entire water pump kit installed,gaskets,housing, seals, o-rings? Just replacing impeller not a penny wise decision.","Telltale will increase with rpms. Was entire water pump kit installed,gaskets,housing, seals, o-rings? Just replacing impeller not a penny wise decision.","It's been a while since I've dropped by and a tad late to answer haventaclue but wanted to post this pic that may help others who has the same question. +BTW on some switches, it's recommended not to switch batteries while motor is running." +"Hopefully someone can give me some direction with this problem. My f250 starts to run a little rough after a 1-2 hrs on the water. I have already replaced the fuel/water separator, and spark plugs. I have also done an oil change making sure not to overfill the engine, and a lower end service. Not sure where to go from here. It is frustrating because the engine runs great for the first hour or so.","The whole kit was installed. I'm going to run the engine today to check the temp of the telltale. The engine seems to be running at the right temp with the muffs on after running it for a while. Unfortunately the boat is in the driveway, not the water.","The whole kit was installed. I'm going to run the engine today to check the temp of the telltale. The engine seems to be running at the right temp with the muffs on after running it for a while. Unfortunately the boat is in the driveway, not the water.","So next question I have is the size of the outboard I should put on the bracket, I want a good size but what would be max." +"Hopefully someone can give me some direction with this problem. My f250 starts to run a little rough after a 1-2 hrs on the water. I have already replaced the fuel/water separator, and spark plugs. I have also done an oil change making sure not to overfill the engine, and a lower end service. Not sure where to go from here. It is frustrating because the engine runs great for the first hour or so.",keep us posted and good luck,keep us posted and good luck,Yamaha LIT-18616-01-96 f75/f80/f90/f100 +"My Yahama outboard manual suggests a minimum cold crank of 512 Amps, and minimum reserve capacity of 182 minutes. It does not mention if it should be a STARTING BATTERY or DEEP CELL BATTERY, or one that is maintainence free (sealed) or the other you can fill. Additionally should they be both the same or one of each.","Buy one of each,bigger is better,car type batteries seem to work better than maintenance free ones, Cranking battery is for starting,Deep cell or DeepCycle is for running accessories,lights, bilge, pump, radio,horn. Turn battery switch to#2 after engine has been started. Not beneficial to run switch in the ""both"" position while underway. Both batteries should be dated similar and from same lot # if possible.","Buy one of each,bigger is better,car type batteries seem to work better than maintenance free ones, Cranking battery is for starting,Deep cell or DeepCycle is for running accessories,lights, bilge, pump, radio,horn. Turn battery switch to#2 after engine has been started. Not beneficial to run switch in the ""both"" position while underway. Both batteries should be dated similar and from same lot # if possible.","I'm sorry about that. I am new to this and did not realize what I did. The motor is 2204 Yamaha 4 stroke 50 hp model no. T50TLRC. The #4 cylinder is misfiring. We have a new #4 carb. We swapped coils 3 x; compression checked 2 x and all even at 150 psi; new pump; new gas lines; new gas; no vacuum leaks; value adjusted; fuel pressure running 4psi; no water in gas. Has there been a common problem of any kind of this particular motor over the years? + +Also, what is the correct psi for a fuel pump? And, New spark plugs and checked. We need your help in finding out what is causing the misfiring. Thank you." +"My Yahama outboard manual suggests a minimum cold crank of 512 Amps, and minimum reserve capacity of 182 minutes. It does not mention if it should be a STARTING BATTERY or DEEP CELL BATTERY, or one that is maintainence free (sealed) or the other you can fill. Additionally should they be both the same or one of each.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Buy one of each,bigger is better,car type batteries seem to work better than maintenance free ones, Cranking battery is for starting,Deep cell or DeepCycle is for running accessories,lights, bilge, pump, radio,horn. Turn battery switch to#2 after engine has been started. Not beneficial to run switch in the ""both"" position while underway. Both batteries should be dated similar and from same lot # if possible. + +Click to expand... + + +Johnny, I have twin car starting batteries in my boat as I'm not drawing that much current running the things I have when drifting and such. Can you clarify your post in the event I were to switch to one starting battery and one deep cycle in the future... My battery switch has 3 positions 1, Both, and 2. I usually leave it on ""both"" all the time since I have twin starting batteries dated same. If I switched, would I start with selector on the starting battery and then switch to Both once running to charge both and draw from both while sitting/drifting?","johnnygjr said: + + + + Buy one of each,bigger is better,car type batteries seem to work better than maintenance free ones, Cranking battery is for starting,Deep cell or DeepCycle is for running accessories,lights, bilge, pump, radio,horn. Turn battery switch to#2 after engine has been started. Not beneficial to run switch in the ""both"" position while underway. Both batteries should be dated similar and from same lot # if possible. + +Click to expand... + + +Johnny, I have twin car starting batteries in my boat as I'm not drawing that much current running the things I have when drifting and such. Can you clarify your post in the event I were to switch to one starting battery and one deep cycle in the future... My battery switch has 3 positions 1, Both, and 2. I usually leave it on ""both"" all the time since I have twin starting batteries dated same. If I switched, would I start with selector on the starting battery and then switch to Both once running to charge both and draw from both while sitting/drifting?",The carburetor sat for about 3 month. before that the young fisherman i am helping dose not know much more about it. He bought it off line... i pulled the float bowl off checked the float did not feel like it was holding fuel. I also pulled the float needle valve it looked new. I do all the work on all my outboards but this one has got me stumped. You think i should get a full rebuild kit..pic of where the fuel is coming out of facing the motor... +"My Yahama outboard manual suggests a minimum cold crank of 512 Amps, and minimum reserve capacity of 182 minutes. It does not mention if it should be a STARTING BATTERY or DEEP CELL BATTERY, or one that is maintainence free (sealed) or the other you can fill. Additionally should they be both the same or one of each.","After starting on starting battery,you would switch to#1 or #2 not to both, if you had one of each type of battery,starting, & deep cycle. You would start engine on both setting,then switch to the deep cycle battery.","After starting on starting battery,you would switch to#1 or #2 not to both, if you had one of each type of battery,starting, & deep cycle. You would start engine on both setting,then switch to the deep cycle battery.","Any number of things can blow the main fuse - battery hooked up incorrectly, bad ground wire, especially at the battery, short in the main bus to your console, faulty breaker, etc. Not familiar with that specific boat, but most will have an independent breaker, and that is often mounted near the battery." +"My Yahama outboard manual suggests a minimum cold crank of 512 Amps, and minimum reserve capacity of 182 minutes. It does not mention if it should be a STARTING BATTERY or DEEP CELL BATTERY, or one that is maintainence free (sealed) or the other you can fill. Additionally should they be both the same or one of each.","johnnygjr said: + + + + After starting on starting battery,you would switch to#1 or #2 not to both, if you had one of each type of battery,starting, & deep cycle. You would start engine on both setting,then switch to the deep cycle battery. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Johnny","johnnygjr said: + + + + After starting on starting battery,you would switch to#1 or #2 not to both, if you had one of each type of battery,starting, & deep cycle. You would start engine on both setting,then switch to the deep cycle battery. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Johnny",Looks to me like you have the wrong SM. +"My Yahama outboard manual suggests a minimum cold crank of 512 Amps, and minimum reserve capacity of 182 minutes. It does not mention if it should be a STARTING BATTERY or DEEP CELL BATTERY, or one that is maintainence free (sealed) or the other you can fill. Additionally should they be both the same or one of each.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Buy one of each,bigger is better,car type batteries seem to work better than maintenance free ones, Cranking battery is for starting,Deep cell or DeepCycle is for running accessories,lights, bilge, pump, radio,horn. Turn battery switch to#2 after engine has been started. Not beneficial to run switch in the ""both"" position while underway. Both batteries should be datedt + +Click to expand...","johnnygjr said: + + + + Buy one of each,bigger is better,car type batteries seem to work better than maintenance free ones, Cranking battery is for starting,Deep cell or DeepCycle is for running accessories,lights, bilge, pump, radio,horn. Turn battery switch to#2 after engine has been started. Not beneficial to run switch in the ""both"" position while underway. Both batteries should be datedt + +Click to expand...",Because the fuel is part of the exhaust which mixes with the water in the leg. If you have a carb/injector putting in to much gas. That will cause flooding which will cause what you are seeing or you have a cylinder not firing. +"My Yahama outboard manual suggests a minimum cold crank of 512 Amps, and minimum reserve capacity of 182 minutes. It does not mention if it should be a STARTING BATTERY or DEEP CELL BATTERY, or one that is maintainence free (sealed) or the other you can fill. Additionally should they be both the same or one of each.","Sammy45, What your question??","Sammy45, What your question??",How clean are the carbs and how are the float settings? +"My Yahama outboard manual suggests a minimum cold crank of 512 Amps, and minimum reserve capacity of 182 minutes. It does not mention if it should be a STARTING BATTERY or DEEP CELL BATTERY, or one that is maintainence free (sealed) or the other you can fill. Additionally should they be both the same or one of each.","Hi Johnnygir, I have been having problems responding on this forum. So I will try a third time. Your original response to me suggested ""bigger is better"", are you Refering to the physical battery size OR marine cracking amps? I have a very cramped battery locker with two group 24 batteries. Secondly, regarding the starting battery, are you suggesting I use an automotive wet battery over a marine wet starting battery? Thirdly, when it comes time to manually charge my batteries with my automotive charger: Do I connect the charger cables individually to each battery and charge them independently OR connect the positive charging cable to one battery and the negative cable to the other battery? I believe the current batteries are wired in parallel. And also is there any consideration As to the PERKO switch position when Charging these batteries manually? I hope this post reply gets thru this time. THANKS","Hi Johnnygir, I have been having problems responding on this forum. So I will try a third time. Your original response to me suggested ""bigger is better"", are you Refering to the physical battery size OR marine cracking amps? I have a very cramped battery locker with two group 24 batteries. Secondly, regarding the starting battery, are you suggesting I use an automotive wet battery over a marine wet starting battery? Thirdly, when it comes time to manually charge my batteries with my automotive charger: Do I connect the charger cables individually to each battery and charge them independently OR connect the positive charging cable to one battery and the negative cable to the other battery? I believe the current batteries are wired in parallel. And also is there any consideration As to the PERKO switch position when Charging these batteries manually? I hope this post reply gets thru this time. THANKS",You are welcome. +"My Yahama outboard manual suggests a minimum cold crank of 512 Amps, and minimum reserve capacity of 182 minutes. It does not mention if it should be a STARTING BATTERY or DEEP CELL BATTERY, or one that is maintainence free (sealed) or the other you can fill. Additionally should they be both the same or one of each.","#1 Cranking amps #2Auto or marine wet ,Not maintenance free types #3Use a marine batt. charger more $$. I would charge each battery separately with perko switch in the off position. They are wired in parallel and could be charged as you mentioned above + on one & - on the other. If you are using boat occasionally there shouldn't be a need to charge them. How ever you charge them make sure key is in the off position!!","#1 Cranking amps #2Auto or marine wet ,Not maintenance free types #3Use a marine batt. charger more $$. I would charge each battery separately with perko switch in the off position. They are wired in parallel and could be charged as you mentioned above + on one & - on the other. If you are using boat occasionally there shouldn't be a need to charge them. How ever you charge them make sure key is in the off position!!",Pull the L/U and see if it's still stiff. +"My Yahama outboard manual suggests a minimum cold crank of 512 Amps, and minimum reserve capacity of 182 minutes. It does not mention if it should be a STARTING BATTERY or DEEP CELL BATTERY, or one that is maintainence free (sealed) or the other you can fill. Additionally should they be both the same or one of each.","Johnny thanks for your reply, since I recently purchased this boat Iam not sure which battery (deep cycle or starting) is connected to position 1 or 2 on the PERKO switch. Is there a simple way to make this determinations?","Johnny thanks for your reply, since I recently purchased this boat Iam not sure which battery (deep cycle or starting) is connected to position 1 or 2 on the PERKO switch. Is there a simple way to make this determinations?",Thanks Bondo +"My Yahama outboard manual suggests a minimum cold crank of 512 Amps, and minimum reserve capacity of 182 minutes. It does not mention if it should be a STARTING BATTERY or DEEP CELL BATTERY, or one that is maintainence free (sealed) or the other you can fill. Additionally should they be both the same or one of each.",Wild guess? might be printed on top or side of battery,Wild guess? might be printed on top or side of battery,"The boat is brand new with no + +The boat is brand new with no bottom paint as of yet. It has been sitting in the water to get a water line so it can be bottom painted. So then what are the steps. 1. 2. 3. +Thanks" +"Just bought a boat with a pair of 2005 Yam F225 4 strokes. They start instantly and run like string trimmers on meth. + +HOWEVER, the port engine just shuts down on its own after prolonged idle. It will stumble a second or two and then just die. If cranked, it will not start. If the primer bulb is vigorously pumped till stiff, the engine starts just fine and all is well, unless you need or want to run at no wake speeds for a while. It will just quit again. + +So, I have been running down the creek with the port engine above 1500 rpm and the starboard at the idle detent. It seems as though that amount of power will keep it running. + +Sounds to me like there is an air leak between the tank and the engine which is of no consequence when running the engine at high power, but manifests itself under low power settings. + +My plan is to start at the tank and tighten every fitting I can find in an attempt to fix this. + +Any other suggestions? + +Many thanks.","Are engines running off same tank? separate water/ fuel separators on engines? Tighten away on fittings. Are there separate fuel bulbs? Have plugs been pulled and inspected? See if any codes are spitting out,","Are engines running off same tank? separate water/ fuel separators on engines? Tighten away on fittings. Are there separate fuel bulbs? Have plugs been pulled and inspected? See if any codes are spitting out,","If you google search the part number any distributer carrying the part will also list the superseded part number. Then order accordingly. Otherwise, my go to for yam parts is boats.net. Call and ask for superseded part#" +"Just bought a boat with a pair of 2005 Yam F225 4 strokes. They start instantly and run like string trimmers on meth. + +HOWEVER, the port engine just shuts down on its own after prolonged idle. It will stumble a second or two and then just die. If cranked, it will not start. If the primer bulb is vigorously pumped till stiff, the engine starts just fine and all is well, unless you need or want to run at no wake speeds for a while. It will just quit again. + +So, I have been running down the creek with the port engine above 1500 rpm and the starboard at the idle detent. It seems as though that amount of power will keep it running. + +Sounds to me like there is an air leak between the tank and the engine which is of no consequence when running the engine at high power, but manifests itself under low power settings. + +My plan is to start at the tank and tighten every fitting I can find in an attempt to fix this. + +Any other suggestions? + +Many thanks.","Same fuel tank. Separate squeeze-bulbs. Separate Racor filters. + +I have not touched the plugs and I do not know how to read the codes. Can you enlighten me on that? Will a standard OBD reader work? If not, what do I need? + +Sorry, FNG with these engines. Long time inboard guy. Will read read read in an attempt to learn as much as possible.","Same fuel tank. Separate squeeze-bulbs. Separate Racor filters. + +I have not touched the plugs and I do not know how to read the codes. Can you enlighten me on that? Will a standard OBD reader work? If not, what do I need? + +Sorry, FNG with these engines. Long time inboard guy. Will read read read in an attempt to learn as much as possible.","mike(417) said: + + + + 2000 Lowe 170 17'alum + 40hp Johnson + I have owned the boat since new. It has developed slack in the wheel, It has a rotary style helm. + Everything works smoothly, the slack seems to be at the wheel, Is there anything i can inspect to derermine what part is actually bad? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,...... Worn out helms are replaced, not repaired,..... + +I suggest a new helm, 'n cable ""Kit"",....." +"Just bought a boat with a pair of 2005 Yam F225 4 strokes. They start instantly and run like string trimmers on meth. + +HOWEVER, the port engine just shuts down on its own after prolonged idle. It will stumble a second or two and then just die. If cranked, it will not start. If the primer bulb is vigorously pumped till stiff, the engine starts just fine and all is well, unless you need or want to run at no wake speeds for a while. It will just quit again. + +So, I have been running down the creek with the port engine above 1500 rpm and the starboard at the idle detent. It seems as though that amount of power will keep it running. + +Sounds to me like there is an air leak between the tank and the engine which is of no consequence when running the engine at high power, but manifests itself under low power settings. + +My plan is to start at the tank and tighten every fitting I can find in an attempt to fix this. + +Any other suggestions? + +Many thanks.","In addition to checking and tightening everything to eliminate any possibility of an air leak in the fuel line to the engine, check the oil level in the port engine... Is it ""making oil"" by any chance? Is the oil level above the top range on the dip-stick? If you're ""making oil"" you could have a mechanical fuel pump diaphram going bad. Simple to check and see if the diaphram is torn, has hole, etc and fix as you can purchase just the diaphram (no need for an entire new fuel pump). Yamaha Service Mafia loves to sell new fuel pumps instead simply replacing the diaphram. + +I had my septic system's air pump fail and wouldn't you know it Septic Service Mafia Man wanted to replace the entire pump for $350. I found online the ""rebuild kit"" with new diaphrams for my pump for $99! Turns out there is a little shear screw in there designed to break when a diaphram fails and shut down the pump. New diaphrams and new shear screw $99 total and good for another 5 years.","In addition to checking and tightening everything to eliminate any possibility of an air leak in the fuel line to the engine, check the oil level in the port engine... Is it ""making oil"" by any chance? Is the oil level above the top range on the dip-stick? If you're ""making oil"" you could have a mechanical fuel pump diaphram going bad. Simple to check and see if the diaphram is torn, has hole, etc and fix as you can purchase just the diaphram (no need for an entire new fuel pump). Yamaha Service Mafia loves to sell new fuel pumps instead simply replacing the diaphram. + +I had my septic system's air pump fail and wouldn't you know it Septic Service Mafia Man wanted to replace the entire pump for $350. I found online the ""rebuild kit"" with new diaphrams for my pump for $99! Turns out there is a little shear screw in there designed to break when a diaphram fails and shut down the pump. New diaphrams and new shear screw $99 total and good for another 5 years.",Requires a +12V DC supply and an ohmmeter. +"Just bought a boat with a pair of 2005 Yam F225 4 strokes. They start instantly and run like string trimmers on meth. + +HOWEVER, the port engine just shuts down on its own after prolonged idle. It will stumble a second or two and then just die. If cranked, it will not start. If the primer bulb is vigorously pumped till stiff, the engine starts just fine and all is well, unless you need or want to run at no wake speeds for a while. It will just quit again. + +So, I have been running down the creek with the port engine above 1500 rpm and the starboard at the idle detent. It seems as though that amount of power will keep it running. + +Sounds to me like there is an air leak between the tank and the engine which is of no consequence when running the engine at high power, but manifests itself under low power settings. + +My plan is to start at the tank and tighten every fitting I can find in an attempt to fix this. + +Any other suggestions? + +Many thanks.","No idea yet on the oil. Will look into that. Today I swapped the fuel lines from the Racor's to try and isolate the issue. There was no change and the port engine crapped out again. Consequently, I think that the problem might just be on the port engine itself and not the fuel delivery. + +I have received some good intel from SIM Yamaha regarding other things to check. I guess that's where I am headed at this point. + +Interestingly, if I run the port engine at 12-14 hundred RPM, it does not fail. I have a fairly long run both up and down my creek to get to the bay and all of it is a no wake zone. So, for the last few days I have run the port engine at 12-1500 and the starboard at 600. It doesn't quit at that rpm.","No idea yet on the oil. Will look into that. Today I swapped the fuel lines from the Racor's to try and isolate the issue. There was no change and the port engine crapped out again. Consequently, I think that the problem might just be on the port engine itself and not the fuel delivery. + +I have received some good intel from SIM Yamaha regarding other things to check. I guess that's where I am headed at this point. + +Interestingly, if I run the port engine at 12-14 hundred RPM, it does not fail. I have a fairly long run both up and down my creek to get to the bay and all of it is a no wake zone. So, for the last few days I have run the port engine at 12-1500 and the starboard at 600. It doesn't quit at that rpm.","Racerone, I noticed when I was refilling the gear oil that gear oil was coming out of the wee hole, which is why I am concerned. It does not seem like gear oil should be coming out of the same hole as the water as fast as the gear oil was spewing out of the wee hole. I imagine this is where I am getting some of the water and gear oil mixing, making the gear oil milky white when I drain the oil. What are your thoughts? Do I need to be concerned? I really don't want to remove the lower unit again, as I have done about 5-6 times in the past week or so. Thanks." +"Just bought a boat with a pair of 2005 Yam F225 4 strokes. They start instantly and run like string trimmers on meth. + +HOWEVER, the port engine just shuts down on its own after prolonged idle. It will stumble a second or two and then just die. If cranked, it will not start. If the primer bulb is vigorously pumped till stiff, the engine starts just fine and all is well, unless you need or want to run at no wake speeds for a while. It will just quit again. + +So, I have been running down the creek with the port engine above 1500 rpm and the starboard at the idle detent. It seems as though that amount of power will keep it running. + +Sounds to me like there is an air leak between the tank and the engine which is of no consequence when running the engine at high power, but manifests itself under low power settings. + +My plan is to start at the tank and tighten every fitting I can find in an attempt to fix this. + +Any other suggestions? + +Many thanks.",Are these carburetor or fuel injected engines?,Are these carburetor or fuel injected engines?,How bad is the crack? Is the cowling still Stucturally sound? +"Just bought a boat with a pair of 2005 Yam F225 4 strokes. They start instantly and run like string trimmers on meth. + +HOWEVER, the port engine just shuts down on its own after prolonged idle. It will stumble a second or two and then just die. If cranked, it will not start. If the primer bulb is vigorously pumped till stiff, the engine starts just fine and all is well, unless you need or want to run at no wake speeds for a while. It will just quit again. + +So, I have been running down the creek with the port engine above 1500 rpm and the starboard at the idle detent. It seems as though that amount of power will keep it running. + +Sounds to me like there is an air leak between the tank and the engine which is of no consequence when running the engine at high power, but manifests itself under low power settings. + +My plan is to start at the tank and tighten every fitting I can find in an attempt to fix this. + +Any other suggestions? + +Many thanks.","oldmako said: + + + + No idea yet on the oil. Will look into that. Today I swapped the fuel lines from the Racor's to try and isolate the issue. There was no change and the port engine crapped out again. Consequently, I think that the problem might just be on the port engine itself and not the fuel delivery. + +I have received some good intel from SIM Yamaha regarding other things to check. I guess that's where I am headed at this point. + +Interestingly, if I run the port engine at 12-14 hundred RPM, it does not fail. I have a fairly long run both up and down my creek to get to the bay and all of it is a no wake zone. So, for the last few days I have run the port engine at 12-1500 and the starboard at 600. It doesn't quit at that rpm. + +Click to expand... + + +Here's a link to another forum that talked about your problem... http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...oards/267270-yamaha-225-4-stroke-fuel-problem + +From what they discuss.... The ""F"" shaped fuel filter apears to be part #16 on Sim Yamaha's engine diagrams of your engine under ""intake 2"".","oldmako said: + + + + No idea yet on the oil. Will look into that. Today I swapped the fuel lines from the Racor's to try and isolate the issue. There was no change and the port engine crapped out again. Consequently, I think that the problem might just be on the port engine itself and not the fuel delivery. + +I have received some good intel from SIM Yamaha regarding other things to check. I guess that's where I am headed at this point. + +Interestingly, if I run the port engine at 12-14 hundred RPM, it does not fail. I have a fairly long run both up and down my creek to get to the bay and all of it is a no wake zone. So, for the last few days I have run the port engine at 12-1500 and the starboard at 600. It doesn't quit at that rpm. + +Click to expand... + + +Here's a link to another forum that talked about your problem... http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...oards/267270-yamaha-225-4-stroke-fuel-problem + +From what they discuss.... The ""F"" shaped fuel filter apears to be part #16 on Sim Yamaha's engine diagrams of your engine under ""intake 2"".",thanks for that-I will get a picture and send it on with a few more queries !! +"Just bought a boat with a pair of 2005 Yam F225 4 strokes. They start instantly and run like string trimmers on meth. + +HOWEVER, the port engine just shuts down on its own after prolonged idle. It will stumble a second or two and then just die. If cranked, it will not start. If the primer bulb is vigorously pumped till stiff, the engine starts just fine and all is well, unless you need or want to run at no wake speeds for a while. It will just quit again. + +So, I have been running down the creek with the port engine above 1500 rpm and the starboard at the idle detent. It seems as though that amount of power will keep it running. + +Sounds to me like there is an air leak between the tank and the engine which is of no consequence when running the engine at high power, but manifests itself under low power settings. + +My plan is to start at the tank and tighten every fitting I can find in an attempt to fix this. + +Any other suggestions? + +Many thanks.","Thanks for all the ideas. I am out of the country at the time but will look into it as soon as I get home. + +I spoke with a Yam mechanic and he suggested swapping the inline check valves (on the engine to see if the problem follows. If so, obviously a bad check valve. The boat's on the trailer now and it should be easier to check some of the items mentioned above and in the thread mentioned above. Sounds like it shouldn't be too tough to sort out since so many people have had it.","Thanks for all the ideas. I am out of the country at the time but will look into it as soon as I get home. + +I spoke with a Yam mechanic and he suggested swapping the inline check valves (on the engine to see if the problem follows. If so, obviously a bad check valve. The boat's on the trailer now and it should be easier to check some of the items mentioned above and in the thread mentioned above. Sounds like it shouldn't be too tough to sort out since so many people have had it.",there is an inline fuse in the wiring harness under the cowl... +"Just bought a boat with a pair of 2005 Yam F225 4 strokes. They start instantly and run like string trimmers on meth. + +HOWEVER, the port engine just shuts down on its own after prolonged idle. It will stumble a second or two and then just die. If cranked, it will not start. If the primer bulb is vigorously pumped till stiff, the engine starts just fine and all is well, unless you need or want to run at no wake speeds for a while. It will just quit again. + +So, I have been running down the creek with the port engine above 1500 rpm and the starboard at the idle detent. It seems as though that amount of power will keep it running. + +Sounds to me like there is an air leak between the tank and the engine which is of no consequence when running the engine at high power, but manifests itself under low power settings. + +My plan is to start at the tank and tighten every fitting I can find in an attempt to fix this. + +Any other suggestions? + +Many thanks.","Same tank. + +Separate Racors, lines, and bulbs. + +Fuel Injected. + +Plugs not pulled. Engine idles smoothly and runs perfectly at all throttle settings. It only cuts out after prolonged ops at idle, like in a no wake zone.","Same tank. + +Separate Racors, lines, and bulbs. + +Fuel Injected. + +Plugs not pulled. Engine idles smoothly and runs perfectly at all throttle settings. It only cuts out after prolonged ops at idle, like in a no wake zone.","This will be my 1000th post, hope I can help. +Maybe the temp sensor is off parameters. Did you check the actual temp with an infrared digital thermometer? Secondly, could there be a partial obstruction leading INTO the pump?" +"First off, sorry for the long post that you are about to read, but I wanna try to explain in detail the issue with my outboard. + +I changed my fuel filter(not the one attached to the motor). + +Pumped the ""fuel ball"", and tried to start the motor...nothing. Removed the fuel line that is attached to the internal filter, then pump the ball until I got fuel up to the filter. Then I drained one of the pots on the carb, and again pumped the fuel to make sure I was getting fuel right to the carbs. Tried the motor...nothing. + +Next, I poured just a little bit of fuel into the cylinder head, and the motor fired up right away. Let idle for about 10 min, shut off the motor, let it sit for an hour, tried the motor and it fired right away again. + +So at this point I figure I had the fuel line air locked, and now after bleeding the fuel all is good. BUT I tried the motor again after about 5 hours of down time and nothing. Not even an offer. + +I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pump, but I wanna see what you guys think before I go out and buy a new pump. + +Thanks for your help","If it is the fuel pump - you probably don't need to purchase the entire fuel pump assy - Look at the fuel system schematic for your engine, you'll see the fuel pump and notice it has lots of parts that can be purchased separately. You can take it apart and check to see if the diaphram has failed (torn, hole in it, etc) and, if it has, buy just a new diaphram for the pump. Easy to replace.","If it is the fuel pump - you probably don't need to purchase the entire fuel pump assy - Look at the fuel system schematic for your engine, you'll see the fuel pump and notice it has lots of parts that can be purchased separately. You can take it apart and check to see if the diaphram has failed (torn, hole in it, etc) and, if it has, buy just a new diaphram for the pump. Easy to replace.","its a sales thing....some measure the length of the boat only...some include everything including motors and out drives and bow additions etc...swim platforms...four feet is stretching it a bit but three feet is not that uncommon... i replaced a 15 foot boat with a 17 foot boat once...actually kept the old one..they were sitting side by side at my camp and i said there is no difference in length...so i measured it and there wasnt much..just a different way to measure it....the old boat was actually 16 feet three inches... + the coast guard measures boats from the tip of the bow to the back edge of the transom with the tape on top ...." +"First off, sorry for the long post that you are about to read, but I wanna try to explain in detail the issue with my outboard. + +I changed my fuel filter(not the one attached to the motor). + +Pumped the ""fuel ball"", and tried to start the motor...nothing. Removed the fuel line that is attached to the internal filter, then pump the ball until I got fuel up to the filter. Then I drained one of the pots on the carb, and again pumped the fuel to make sure I was getting fuel right to the carbs. Tried the motor...nothing. + +Next, I poured just a little bit of fuel into the cylinder head, and the motor fired up right away. Let idle for about 10 min, shut off the motor, let it sit for an hour, tried the motor and it fired right away again. + +So at this point I figure I had the fuel line air locked, and now after bleeding the fuel all is good. BUT I tried the motor again after about 5 hours of down time and nothing. Not even an offer. + +I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pump, but I wanna see what you guys think before I go out and buy a new pump. + +Thanks for your help","So an update on my problem, replaced the pump and I get the same problem :-( + +I have no idea on what I should do next.","So an update on my problem, replaced the pump and I get the same problem :-( + +I have no idea on what I should do next.","A 4 stroke engine will hod a certain amount of engine oil in suspension. +It may be possible that at 3,400 RPM and above, there is not enough remaining oil to prevent the indicator light from coming on. + + +You may need to contact Honda Marine and speak with a technician. + + +." +"First off, sorry for the long post that you are about to read, but I wanna try to explain in detail the issue with my outboard. + +I changed my fuel filter(not the one attached to the motor). + +Pumped the ""fuel ball"", and tried to start the motor...nothing. Removed the fuel line that is attached to the internal filter, then pump the ball until I got fuel up to the filter. Then I drained one of the pots on the carb, and again pumped the fuel to make sure I was getting fuel right to the carbs. Tried the motor...nothing. + +Next, I poured just a little bit of fuel into the cylinder head, and the motor fired up right away. Let idle for about 10 min, shut off the motor, let it sit for an hour, tried the motor and it fired right away again. + +So at this point I figure I had the fuel line air locked, and now after bleeding the fuel all is good. BUT I tried the motor again after about 5 hours of down time and nothing. Not even an offer. + +I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pump, but I wanna see what you guys think before I go out and buy a new pump. + +Thanks for your help","Trouble shooting 101 compression test, Spark test, followed by fuel diagnostics. A little history would help.first time out?new problem?Old problem? old fuel in tank? Anti siphon valve defective?primer bulb bad? does primer bulb pump up firmly before starting? possible floats sticking,tap sides of bowls with tool, On board filter was it replaced,blown thru backwards,is it clear, It really sounds like carbs are really gummed up.might have to pull carbs, disassemble, clean,scrub ,all ports,jets, crevices, passageways,bowls, ETC. Reset floats and rebuild,reassemble carbs,pictures come in handy for reassembly& reinstall, Post results and or questions","Trouble shooting 101 compression test, Spark test, followed by fuel diagnostics. A little history would help.first time out?new problem?Old problem? old fuel in tank? Anti siphon valve defective?primer bulb bad? does primer bulb pump up firmly before starting? possible floats sticking,tap sides of bowls with tool, On board filter was it replaced,blown thru backwards,is it clear, It really sounds like carbs are really gummed up.might have to pull carbs, disassemble, clean,scrub ,all ports,jets, crevices, passageways,bowls, ETC. Reset floats and rebuild,reassemble carbs,pictures come in handy for reassembly& reinstall, Post results and or questions","you're gonna have to replace the cable... + +if you really like the boat, consider upgrading to a hydraulic steering system...you'll find it a true joy to use. + +BTW, Welcome to ME.com!" +"First off, sorry for the long post that you are about to read, but I wanna try to explain in detail the issue with my outboard. + +I changed my fuel filter(not the one attached to the motor). + +Pumped the ""fuel ball"", and tried to start the motor...nothing. Removed the fuel line that is attached to the internal filter, then pump the ball until I got fuel up to the filter. Then I drained one of the pots on the carb, and again pumped the fuel to make sure I was getting fuel right to the carbs. Tried the motor...nothing. + +Next, I poured just a little bit of fuel into the cylinder head, and the motor fired up right away. Let idle for about 10 min, shut off the motor, let it sit for an hour, tried the motor and it fired right away again. + +So at this point I figure I had the fuel line air locked, and now after bleeding the fuel all is good. BUT I tried the motor again after about 5 hours of down time and nothing. Not even an offer. + +I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pump, but I wanna see what you guys think before I go out and buy a new pump. + +Thanks for your help","johnnygjr said: + + + + Trouble shooting 101 compression test, Spark test, followed by fuel diagnostics. A little history would help.first time out?new problem?Old problem? old fuel in tank? Anti siphon valve defective?primer bulb bad? does primer bulb pump up firmly before starting? possible floats sticking,tap sides of bowls with tool, On board filter was it replaced,blown thru backwards,is it clear, It really sounds like carbs are really gummed up.might have to pull carbs, disassemble, clean,scrub ,all ports,jets, crevices, passageways,bowls, ETC. Reset floats and rebuild,reassemble carbs,pictures come in handy for reassembly& reinstall, Post results and or questions + +Click to expand... + + +Did not do a compression test, got spark on all 4 plugs, new fuel. This only happend after I changed my main fuel filter(not the little one attached to the motor). What is anti siphon valve? Did you mean the inline check valve? Primer bulb is good, and it firms up before I try to start motor. + +Most people I talk to say that it's my carbs. Thanks for the reply.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Trouble shooting 101 compression test, Spark test, followed by fuel diagnostics. A little history would help.first time out?new problem?Old problem? old fuel in tank? Anti siphon valve defective?primer bulb bad? does primer bulb pump up firmly before starting? possible floats sticking,tap sides of bowls with tool, On board filter was it replaced,blown thru backwards,is it clear, It really sounds like carbs are really gummed up.might have to pull carbs, disassemble, clean,scrub ,all ports,jets, crevices, passageways,bowls, ETC. Reset floats and rebuild,reassemble carbs,pictures come in handy for reassembly& reinstall, Post results and or questions + +Click to expand... + + +Did not do a compression test, got spark on all 4 plugs, new fuel. This only happend after I changed my main fuel filter(not the little one attached to the motor). What is anti siphon valve? Did you mean the inline check valve? Primer bulb is good, and it firms up before I try to start motor. + +Most people I talk to say that it's my carbs. Thanks for the reply.","racerone said: + + + + Does the spark jump a gap of 1 cm (3/8"" ) on both leads when cranking it over , yes or no ? + +Click to expand... + + +Im not sure as it isnt an electrical start motor. Have to pull and watch, but if im right it is the same... +Bottom spark is easily tested as I can run the engine on the upper cilinder and watch the lower spark while it's running." +"First off, sorry for the long post that you are about to read, but I wanna try to explain in detail the issue with my outboard. + +I changed my fuel filter(not the one attached to the motor). + +Pumped the ""fuel ball"", and tried to start the motor...nothing. Removed the fuel line that is attached to the internal filter, then pump the ball until I got fuel up to the filter. Then I drained one of the pots on the carb, and again pumped the fuel to make sure I was getting fuel right to the carbs. Tried the motor...nothing. + +Next, I poured just a little bit of fuel into the cylinder head, and the motor fired up right away. Let idle for about 10 min, shut off the motor, let it sit for an hour, tried the motor and it fired right away again. + +So at this point I figure I had the fuel line air locked, and now after bleeding the fuel all is good. BUT I tried the motor again after about 5 hours of down time and nothing. Not even an offer. + +I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pump, but I wanna see what you guys think before I go out and buy a new pump. + +Thanks for your help","Yes ,inline check valve. Double check entire fuel system from inside of tank to carbs for air leaks,loose connections, obstructions,collapsing suction side of fuel line,vent obstruction? You said this happened after main filter change,Are we talking about the water/ fuel separator mounted on transom. If yes, did you fill filter with fuel before you installed it? Are you using proper starting technique . Pumping bulb till firm,Turning key to on,pressing in key 1 to3 count to activate choke solenoid,then turning key to start,pressing in key till she smooths out?","Yes ,inline check valve. Double check entire fuel system from inside of tank to carbs for air leaks,loose connections, obstructions,collapsing suction side of fuel line,vent obstruction? You said this happened after main filter change,Are we talking about the water/ fuel separator mounted on transom. If yes, did you fill filter with fuel before you installed it? Are you using proper starting technique . Pumping bulb till firm,Turning key to on,pressing in key 1 to3 count to activate choke solenoid,then turning key to start,pressing in key till she smooths out?","boscoe said: + + + + ECU difference. + +Same as with the VF200/VF/225 models and the F225/F250/F300XCA models. Others as well. + +You must not be in the USA. Yamaha USA does not offer an F130 HP model. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks- thought it was ecu, but also wondered if they do the same as they do with their waverunners and restrict air inlet as well." +"First off, sorry for the long post that you are about to read, but I wanna try to explain in detail the issue with my outboard. + +I changed my fuel filter(not the one attached to the motor). + +Pumped the ""fuel ball"", and tried to start the motor...nothing. Removed the fuel line that is attached to the internal filter, then pump the ball until I got fuel up to the filter. Then I drained one of the pots on the carb, and again pumped the fuel to make sure I was getting fuel right to the carbs. Tried the motor...nothing. + +Next, I poured just a little bit of fuel into the cylinder head, and the motor fired up right away. Let idle for about 10 min, shut off the motor, let it sit for an hour, tried the motor and it fired right away again. + +So at this point I figure I had the fuel line air locked, and now after bleeding the fuel all is good. BUT I tried the motor again after about 5 hours of down time and nothing. Not even an offer. + +I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pump, but I wanna see what you guys think before I go out and buy a new pump. + +Thanks for your help","So I finally figured out the issue. The choke is not working on my remote control, I have to use the choke that is on my outboard. Anyone ever have this issue before? If so, how do I fix it, aside from replacing my remote control module.","So I finally figured out the issue. The choke is not working on my remote control, I have to use the choke that is on my outboard. Anyone ever have this issue before? If so, how do I fix it, aside from replacing my remote control module.","chawk_man said: + + + + Okay on the Merc Forum. There is a guy on the Honda forum named Jimmy Dixon who is an expert with small Honda outboards. Not sure what he knows about Merc's, but it's worth a try. His e-mail is [email protected]. Tell him CHawk recommended that you contact him. + +Click to expand... + + +OK, I'll contact him. Thanks for your help with this." +"First off, sorry for the long post that you are about to read, but I wanna try to explain in detail the issue with my outboard. + +I changed my fuel filter(not the one attached to the motor). + +Pumped the ""fuel ball"", and tried to start the motor...nothing. Removed the fuel line that is attached to the internal filter, then pump the ball until I got fuel up to the filter. Then I drained one of the pots on the carb, and again pumped the fuel to make sure I was getting fuel right to the carbs. Tried the motor...nothing. + +Next, I poured just a little bit of fuel into the cylinder head, and the motor fired up right away. Let idle for about 10 min, shut off the motor, let it sit for an hour, tried the motor and it fired right away again. + +So at this point I figure I had the fuel line air locked, and now after bleeding the fuel all is good. BUT I tried the motor again after about 5 hours of down time and nothing. Not even an offer. + +I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pump, but I wanna see what you guys think before I go out and buy a new pump. + +Thanks for your help",Check ALL wiring for continuity from remote control to engine/battery. Check all grounds are clean and tight. If continuity of all wires are good check voltage to the remote control. If volts to the remote are good check volts at the electric choke in engine when engaging choke on the remote control. No voltage at the electric choke probabaly = bad switch in the remote. Bypass switch in the remote with a jumper wire and see if the electric choke engages with a bypass as a final bad switch test.,Check ALL wiring for continuity from remote control to engine/battery. Check all grounds are clean and tight. If continuity of all wires are good check voltage to the remote control. If volts to the remote are good check volts at the electric choke in engine when engaging choke on the remote control. No voltage at the electric choke probabaly = bad switch in the remote. Bypass switch in the remote with a jumper wire and see if the electric choke engages with a bypass as a final bad switch test.,"flabob1 said: + + + + I have twin 150 HPDI 1004 engines. Been having a problem with one engine not going over 3000 rpms . Went the route of changing filters ,plugs etc. no help +On my last trip I did get up to 3700RPM with Throttle full advanced. Ran it all day . Thinking it was just a throttle adjustment. +Today about to go fishing I find now that the throttle will only advance half way. +Felt like the cable was binding . +Disconnected the cable and found working OK. +Compared to the other engine you could see the linkage that the cable attached to moves a arm with a roller in it . It goes all the way up at full throttle. +This does not happen with it. Moving it by hand and it will only go half way as it was when connected to cable. +Feels like something is keeping it from going FT. Can't see much ,it's buried behind the starter etc. +Any Idea what would keep it from moving to FT position. +Help would be appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +Update on the above. +Checked the oil rod on the other side of the engine and it move freely and the shaft going into the block moves. Grabbing the lever that the throttle cables were connected going into the block it moves a little but does not turn. +Is it normal to be able to turn it by hand? + If yes than what would keep it from turning? +If so how could I free it ? + +Thanks ,Bob" +"First off, sorry for the long post that you are about to read, but I wanna try to explain in detail the issue with my outboard. + +I changed my fuel filter(not the one attached to the motor). + +Pumped the ""fuel ball"", and tried to start the motor...nothing. Removed the fuel line that is attached to the internal filter, then pump the ball until I got fuel up to the filter. Then I drained one of the pots on the carb, and again pumped the fuel to make sure I was getting fuel right to the carbs. Tried the motor...nothing. + +Next, I poured just a little bit of fuel into the cylinder head, and the motor fired up right away. Let idle for about 10 min, shut off the motor, let it sit for an hour, tried the motor and it fired right away again. + +So at this point I figure I had the fuel line air locked, and now after bleeding the fuel all is good. BUT I tried the motor again after about 5 hours of down time and nothing. Not even an offer. + +I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pump, but I wanna see what you guys think before I go out and buy a new pump. + +Thanks for your help","Apply 12 volts to choke solenoid,see if that works.","Apply 12 volts to choke solenoid,see if that works.",Do let us know how it turns out... Most of us here have learned the hard way so I know we all want to know what the outcome is and if your probs are fixed. +Just finished a power head rebuild on a 1999 Yamaha 90 2 stroke. This spring fell from somewhere and I can't find it anywhere on any of the diagrams. Anyone know where it goes? Thanks in advance! It's about an inch long.,Throttle return ??,Throttle return ??,"Yes,I agree with you Kim." +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"Start with compression test,spark test second, and fuel diagnostics third","Start with compression test,spark test second, and fuel diagnostics third",Thanks very much deepsea21 +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"jeffmason said: + + + + 1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong + +Click to expand... + + +Why do you say you had to wait 15 mnutes to crank? Are you saying nothing happened when you turned the key for 15 min? Or when you turned the key for the first 15 minutes the engine would turn over but would not fire and start? A + +re you using ethanol-blended fuel that is sold at 99% of gas stations or 100% gasoline? What is the size of your fuel tank? Do you add any type of fuel stabilizer to the gas at fill-ups?","jeffmason said: + + + + 1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong + +Click to expand... + + +Why do you say you had to wait 15 mnutes to crank? Are you saying nothing happened when you turned the key for 15 min? Or when you turned the key for the first 15 minutes the engine would turn over but would not fire and start? A + +re you using ethanol-blended fuel that is sold at 99% of gas stations or 100% gasoline? What is the size of your fuel tank? Do you add any type of fuel stabilizer to the gas at fill-ups?","I would be very careful pouring foam with the deck laid on an already, I have seen some boats with the floor buckled from the foam." +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"deepsea21 said: + + + + Why do you say you had to wait 15 mnutes to crank? Are you saying nothing happened when you turned the key for 15 min? Or when you turned the key for the first 15 minutes the engine would turn over but would not fire and start? A + +re you using ethanol-blended fuel that is sold at 99% of gas stations or 100% gasoline? What is the size of your fuel tank? Do you add any type of fuel stabilizer to the gas at fill-ups? + +Click to expand... + + +Tried to crank several times and would not crank. So i fished for 15 min then it cranked. Not sure size of tank. Before i took it out on the water i drained all gas put new gas in. Used blended gas . No additives","deepsea21 said: + + + + Why do you say you had to wait 15 mnutes to crank? Are you saying nothing happened when you turned the key for 15 min? Or when you turned the key for the first 15 minutes the engine would turn over but would not fire and start? A + +re you using ethanol-blended fuel that is sold at 99% of gas stations or 100% gasoline? What is the size of your fuel tank? Do you add any type of fuel stabilizer to the gas at fill-ups? + +Click to expand... + + +Tried to crank several times and would not crank. So i fished for 15 min then it cranked. Not sure size of tank. Before i took it out on the water i drained all gas put new gas in. Used blended gas . No additives","Hi registerd - Funny how running at idle can damage something... but running strong with a load doesn't? Now I have something else to worry about. + +Let me ask though... Im at about 1/8 tank now... is that what you consider empty? Or do you mean let it run at idle and let it 'konk' out? - and then fill it up? I was thinking of running it low at the end of the season and then have the marina suck out any remaining gas and dispose of it (@$10/gal). Would that clean out any crap that may be in the tank? Or maybe there is a way to clean an internal tank out? + +Im hoping the fresh gas makes a difference and gives me a bit more speed. It just does not feel fast enough (and on a lake).. which makes me feel like something is just off. I cant imagine running it on the ocean with this power - or lack of power. Of course... the speedometer does not work either! - but it hit RPMs 5500 RPMs. I push the throttle and it hits a top speed... but then I push it more and nothing extra out of it." +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"Is your battery fully charged? Is your alternator,rectifier/regulator charging battery,13.4 volts at 1500rpms","Is your battery fully charged? Is your alternator,rectifier/regulator charging battery,13.4 volts at 1500rpms","High Pressure pump is 44 psi then drops down to 33 psi and holds good until it falls on its self.Fuel tank is venting, rechecked vent line and have blown out the vent line.The primer bulb is not getting sucked flat, its not rock hard nor is it super soft. going to pull the VST again." +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Is your battery fully charged? Is your alternator,rectifier/regulator charging battery,13.4 volts at 1500rpms + +Click to expand... + + +Yes it is. It was turning over good. Just not cranking","johnnygjr said: + + + + Is your battery fully charged? Is your alternator,rectifier/regulator charging battery,13.4 volts at 1500rpms + +Click to expand... + + +Yes it is. It was turning over good. Just not cranking","When I bypass the water separator the motor runs perfect + +I have changed the water filter, and empty out the old one. For now I am running it without a water separator. + +which brings to the next question, how important is a water separator" +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"Turning over is cranking over, do you mean not firing,starting?","Turning over is cranking over, do you mean not firing,starting?","25 ESH, 2006 yr. Don""t have instructions that came with it. thanks" +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Turning over is cranking over, do you mean not firing,starting? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes sir not firing, starting","johnnygjr said: + + + + Turning over is cranking over, do you mean not firing,starting? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes sir not firing, starting",There is a clip in there.-----Remove clip and turn out the valve bits. +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"Is your starter cranking at least 200-300rpms minimal for proper starting procedure? Have you done an open gap spark test yet on all coils? Was boat sitting around for a long time before you got it. You mentioned you drained fuel from tank,Was fuel system cleaned, Tank, lines, pump,water/fuel separator inspected?We need more history on your boat,first time out,new problem,old issue?","Is your starter cranking at least 200-300rpms minimal for proper starting procedure? Have you done an open gap spark test yet on all coils? Was boat sitting around for a long time before you got it. You mentioned you drained fuel from tank,Was fuel system cleaned, Tank, lines, pump,water/fuel separator inspected?We need more history on your boat,first time out,new problem,old issue?",I do not like the idea of exposing a fuel supply to possibly immersed I water. +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Is your starter cranking at least 200-300rpms minimal for proper starting procedure? Have you done an open gap spark test yet on all coils? Was boat sitting around for a long time before you got it. You mentioned you drained fuel from tank,Was fuel system cleaned, Tank, lines, pump,water/fuel separator inspected?We need more history on your boat,first time out,new problem,old issue? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes starter cranking as should. Done open gap test. All firing good. I bought the boat and this wad first and second time out. Yes all fuel related items inspected. Boat will idle all day on muffs. When i carry it out it runs perfect till about 20 min in. Acts like something is happening when it gets warm. And when it w9nt crank back up the fuel bulb is hard.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Is your starter cranking at least 200-300rpms minimal for proper starting procedure? Have you done an open gap spark test yet on all coils? Was boat sitting around for a long time before you got it. You mentioned you drained fuel from tank,Was fuel system cleaned, Tank, lines, pump,water/fuel separator inspected?We need more history on your boat,first time out,new problem,old issue? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes starter cranking as should. Done open gap test. All firing good. I bought the boat and this wad first and second time out. Yes all fuel related items inspected. Boat will idle all day on muffs. When i carry it out it runs perfect till about 20 min in. Acts like something is happening when it gets warm. And when it w9nt crank back up the fuel bulb is hard.","DD - what exactly do you mean when you say ""transition(s) to the SR mechanism""? I've go SR's (but with the 33C cables) and have made up many different ends for others. +Going on memory, the SR uses a 1/4"" pin to connect the control's arm to the cable end. Various sources provide clevis, pivot, terminal eye, and balljoints for making this connection. based on your text, not really sure what you have...my best guess is you that you have a custom made end ??? +I'd start with the 029025 clevis end...takes the 1/4-28 cable end and provides a clevis taking a 1/4"" pin." +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"When issue occurs again check for spark, Possibly stator is getting warm and acting up after10-20 minutes of running,thus killing spark. Heat builds up on top of engine in the flywheel area when engine is shut off. When engine and stator cool down she fires back up and the cycle starts again","When issue occurs again check for spark, Possibly stator is getting warm and acting up after10-20 minutes of running,thus killing spark. Heat builds up on top of engine in the flywheel area when engine is shut off. When engine and stator cool down she fires back up and the cycle starts again","My understanding is the DVA adapter is used for reading coil output voltages with the motor cranking. I have already checked charge/pulser coils and resistance is in spec, it was just two circuits on the CDI that were WAY out of spec. The more reading I do and getting feedback here I am assuming it is fine to use a digital meter for resistance. + +I also ordered a DVA and it just arrived, I was going to check output voltages just to be sure but my manuals only give the procedure for using a Yamaha Y-1 tester, they do not give voltage outputs. Does anyone know the Pulser/charge coil voltages on these motors? + +Thanks" +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"johnnygjr said: + + + + When issue occurs again check for spark, Possibly stator is getting warm and acting up after10-20 minutes of running,thus killing spark. Heat builds up on top of engine in the flywheel area when engine is shut off. When engine and stator cool down she fires back up and the cycle starts again + +Click to expand... + + +Ok thanks i will try that","johnnygjr said: + + + + When issue occurs again check for spark, Possibly stator is getting warm and acting up after10-20 minutes of running,thus killing spark. Heat builds up on top of engine in the flywheel area when engine is shut off. When engine and stator cool down she fires back up and the cycle starts again + +Click to expand... + + +Ok thanks i will try that","Thanks papyson >< I will give That a check, I do have a multi meter, I will take good wire brush and polish up all the connections + +it will be a couple days before I can get back to that > < I will post back what Find + +Rat" +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"What Johnny said. Also, since this seems to happen after a long run with alot of heat built up, make sure you throttle back when you are coming back to dock where you can check for spark. Checking for spark on the open water or at a beach with waves/wakes comign in isn't easy (been there/done that).","What Johnny said. Also, since this seems to happen after a long run with alot of heat built up, make sure you throttle back when you are coming back to dock where you can check for spark. Checking for spark on the open water or at a beach with waves/wakes comign in isn't easy (been there/done that).",I reread the manual on the sync procedure. It mentions carb pickup when referring to timing marks ?? Could someone please walk me through the sync procedure on this motor ? Thanks .....david +1989 bumble bee. 115 yamaha 2 stroke. Launched boat ran wide open for 15 minutes stopped and put in neutral and went dead. Had to wait 15 minutes to crank then boat would only run 1/4 throttle. Any more throttle it would die. After 10 min of that it would run full throttle. Next day ran wide open for 5 min stop. Then put in neutral. Did that for 20 min then it went dead and could not get it cranked. Havent carried it out since. Any suggestions of whats wrong,"deepsea21 said: + + + + What Johnny said. Also, since this seems to happen after a long run with alot of heat built up, make sure you throttle back when you are coming back to dock where you can check for spark. Checking for spark on the open water or at a beach with waves/wakes comign in isn't easy (been there/done that). + +Click to expand... + + +Ok. Thank u","deepsea21 said: + + + + What Johnny said. Also, since this seems to happen after a long run with alot of heat built up, make sure you throttle back when you are coming back to dock where you can check for spark. Checking for spark on the open water or at a beach with waves/wakes comign in isn't easy (been there/done that). + +Click to expand... + + +Ok. Thank u","If the motor in question is a two stroke type, then the initial setting is 2 turns outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 3/4 turn." +"Hello all. I'm new here and I am all out of idea's but i thought if anyone can help it would be here. I'll cut a long story short. I bought a second hand yam 30 about 1991 vintage, 3 cyl version. Pull start only, very basic but for my needs will do fine. I'm not a complete novice as my other boat has a Suzuki DT40 on it so i have learned much. + +Anyway, I bought the engine and got her to fire up, bit smokey, didn't like idle etc but ran smooth other than that. Pull starting was quite easy. It needed work so I changed the impellar and water pump housing ( done this before) and it needed a new shift linkage aprt and engine to lower case gasket. Did all this, screwed it all back together and went to start it. VERY stiff pull start, no way can I pull hard enough to get it to fire. Pulled the plugs out and no worries, smotth, free as a bird. Trid throttle open/shut choke on/off, nothign makes much difference. removed the pull starter and thats free as a bird too. I have read about a relief valve but not sure if mine has one or even where it would be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.",H??ave you looked in shop manual yet for a diagram,H??ave you looked in shop manual yet for a diagram,Yam has produced hundreds of 50hp models. Which one do you have? +"Hello all. I'm new here and I am all out of idea's but i thought if anyone can help it would be here. I'll cut a long story short. I bought a second hand yam 30 about 1991 vintage, 3 cyl version. Pull start only, very basic but for my needs will do fine. I'm not a complete novice as my other boat has a Suzuki DT40 on it so i have learned much. + +Anyway, I bought the engine and got her to fire up, bit smokey, didn't like idle etc but ran smooth other than that. Pull starting was quite easy. It needed work so I changed the impellar and water pump housing ( done this before) and it needed a new shift linkage aprt and engine to lower case gasket. Did all this, screwed it all back together and went to start it. VERY stiff pull start, no way can I pull hard enough to get it to fire. Pulled the plugs out and no worries, smotth, free as a bird. Trid throttle open/shut choke on/off, nothign makes much difference. removed the pull starter and thats free as a bird too. I have read about a relief valve but not sure if mine has one or even where it would be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.","johnnygjr said: + + + + H??ave you looked in shop manual yet for a diagram + +Click to expand... + + +Johnny: I don't know of any ""pressure relief valve"" on this engine. Do you know if this engine has pressure relief ports drilled through the cylinder walls near the exhaust ports? If so, it is possible those small relief ports have become plugged up with carbon (it is a 2-stroke 1991). If this engine has them, the exhaust cover can be removed and both the large exhaust ports and the smaller ""presure relief ports"" (maybe 1/4"" in diameter) can be viewed and cleaned/drilled out to open them up again of those small ports are clogged up. Use care when removing all those bolts that hold the outer cover of the exhaust on not to sheer them off. + +Sim Yamaha parts diagram ""crankcase cylinder"" exhaust cover is part # 28. Looks to be 10 bolts holding that on.","johnnygjr said: + + + + H??ave you looked in shop manual yet for a diagram + +Click to expand... + + +Johnny: I don't know of any ""pressure relief valve"" on this engine. Do you know if this engine has pressure relief ports drilled through the cylinder walls near the exhaust ports? If so, it is possible those small relief ports have become plugged up with carbon (it is a 2-stroke 1991). If this engine has them, the exhaust cover can be removed and both the large exhaust ports and the smaller ""presure relief ports"" (maybe 1/4"" in diameter) can be viewed and cleaned/drilled out to open them up again of those small ports are clogged up. Use care when removing all those bolts that hold the outer cover of the exhaust on not to sheer them off. + +Sim Yamaha parts diagram ""crankcase cylinder"" exhaust cover is part # 28. Looks to be 10 bolts holding that on.","twilbanks said: + + + + I have determined that there is no spark when the motor acts up. + +Click to expand... + + +Sounds like you solved the issue bud. If what you're asking is what to do next.....do you know if no spark on all four plugs, or just a particular plug? If all four randomly don't spark, I reckon that's an issue with intermittent power supply to plugs. If one particular plug is intermittent, swap plugs and test again. If no spark from same coil, then it's power supply issue. If spark from same coil, then bad plug." +"Hello all. I'm new here and I am all out of idea's but i thought if anyone can help it would be here. I'll cut a long story short. I bought a second hand yam 30 about 1991 vintage, 3 cyl version. Pull start only, very basic but for my needs will do fine. I'm not a complete novice as my other boat has a Suzuki DT40 on it so i have learned much. + +Anyway, I bought the engine and got her to fire up, bit smokey, didn't like idle etc but ran smooth other than that. Pull starting was quite easy. It needed work so I changed the impellar and water pump housing ( done this before) and it needed a new shift linkage aprt and engine to lower case gasket. Did all this, screwed it all back together and went to start it. VERY stiff pull start, no way can I pull hard enough to get it to fire. Pulled the plugs out and no worries, smotth, free as a bird. Trid throttle open/shut choke on/off, nothign makes much difference. removed the pull starter and thats free as a bird too. I have read about a relief valve but not sure if mine has one or even where it would be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.","deepsea,I was referring clayster to look in manual for ideas on his issue,I was not indicating there was any pressure relief valves in my post on that engine. Sorry for the confusion.","deepsea,I was referring clayster to look in manual for ideas on his issue,I was not indicating there was any pressure relief valves in my post on that engine. Sorry for the confusion.","Found what I needed from the service manual. The hose from thermostat goes to the fitting in my second picture, it is a cooling hose. The other hoses in pic 4 were breather hoses. One goes to the intake silencer, other goes to a fitting near the flywheel. + + + + +Video of Lehr propane 5hp converted to run on gas:" +"Hello all. I'm new here and I am all out of idea's but i thought if anyone can help it would be here. I'll cut a long story short. I bought a second hand yam 30 about 1991 vintage, 3 cyl version. Pull start only, very basic but for my needs will do fine. I'm not a complete novice as my other boat has a Suzuki DT40 on it so i have learned much. + +Anyway, I bought the engine and got her to fire up, bit smokey, didn't like idle etc but ran smooth other than that. Pull starting was quite easy. It needed work so I changed the impellar and water pump housing ( done this before) and it needed a new shift linkage aprt and engine to lower case gasket. Did all this, screwed it all back together and went to start it. VERY stiff pull start, no way can I pull hard enough to get it to fire. Pulled the plugs out and no worries, smotth, free as a bird. Trid throttle open/shut choke on/off, nothign makes much difference. removed the pull starter and thats free as a bird too. I have read about a relief valve but not sure if mine has one or even where it would be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.","johnnygjr said: + + + + deepsea,I was referring clayster to look in manual for ideas on his issue,I was not indicating there was any pressure relief valves in my post on that engine. Sorry for the confusion. + +Click to expand... + + +No worries. I personally don't think there is any ""pressure relief valve"" on that engine. I'm betting it has a small pressure release port drilled in each cylinder near the main exhaust ports. Those small ports serve to reduce compression pressure at lower turnover/cranking RPM and provide some relief for easier pull starting. If it was an old engine and he got it to fire and it smoked alot perhaps he brioke lose some carbon that caused one or more of those ports that may have been 80 or 90% clogged to clog 100%. I looked at the schematics and didn't see any ports drawn on them from the angle of the schematic but that doesn't mean they aren't there. I recommend he contact Sim Yamaha and ask of that engine has pressure relief ports in addition to the main exhaust ports before wrenching that far into it to see for himself... Then again, if he has the time there's no better way to figure out an engien than to start taking it apart!","johnnygjr said: + + + + deepsea,I was referring clayster to look in manual for ideas on his issue,I was not indicating there was any pressure relief valves in my post on that engine. Sorry for the confusion. + +Click to expand... + + +No worries. I personally don't think there is any ""pressure relief valve"" on that engine. I'm betting it has a small pressure release port drilled in each cylinder near the main exhaust ports. Those small ports serve to reduce compression pressure at lower turnover/cranking RPM and provide some relief for easier pull starting. If it was an old engine and he got it to fire and it smoked alot perhaps he brioke lose some carbon that caused one or more of those ports that may have been 80 or 90% clogged to clog 100%. I looked at the schematics and didn't see any ports drawn on them from the angle of the schematic but that doesn't mean they aren't there. I recommend he contact Sim Yamaha and ask of that engine has pressure relief ports in addition to the main exhaust ports before wrenching that far into it to see for himself... Then again, if he has the time there's no better way to figure out an engien than to start taking it apart!","Today, I took the gear case off to change the impeller, and so had the opportunity to deal with the speedo clog from the top (the hose nipple) all the way to the intake hole in the gearcase. +The hose nipple is plastic, so I could not remove it. I took a welding wire like 1/16” and fashioned a drill and hammered the end like a flat head screw driver and gave it a point and drilled from the top down and horizontal at the intake hole in the front of the gear case. It took like 2 hours of work, and the compressor would not push the gunk out. I then put Ospho down the top with another 1/16” welding wire, it made a paste out of what was left and I had the keep drilling and taking it out and cleaning the wire every time and little by little the stoppage was removed till the compressor finally blew through. Then I put a straw and sprayed Isoprpyl Alcohol through it to clean it and then more compressed air. The job is done! +ANSWER TO MY QUESTION ON THIS THREAD: : the vertical depth from the tip of the hose nipple to where it hits bottom is 24.5cm . The horizontal depth of the gearcase intake hole is 3.4cm. (I was short by like 2 inches on the vertical hole the last time, and that was where the clog was.)" +"I have 07 f40 it has the pilot tube for the speedo. to install do I just hook up tube to speedo +or do I need to get some kind of sending unit. +Tks.","Grit said: + + + + I have 07 f40 it has the pilot tube for the speedo. to install do I just hook up tube to speedo +or do I need to get some kind of sending unit. +Tks. + +Click to expand... + + +If your engine has one of those tiny holes on the leading edge of the lower unit (as my 2002 F115 has), don't even waste your time or money trying o hook up a speedo. That stupid little hole and pressure tube will get clogged over and over and over again and it will drive you nuts cleaning it, picking at it, back blowing and flushing out the tube until you say to yourself ""Do I really care about this"". If you really want a speedo on the boat, buy a cheap one with air pressure hose that connects to a little plastic pick-up you can mount on the transom. Again, don't even waste your time with that lousy yamaha design. IF you have a GPS on your boat, do what EVERYONE does and look at the speed it is indicating to the 10th a MPH.","Grit said: + + + + I have 07 f40 it has the pilot tube for the speedo. to install do I just hook up tube to speedo +or do I need to get some kind of sending unit. +Tks. + +Click to expand... + + +If your engine has one of those tiny holes on the leading edge of the lower unit (as my 2002 F115 has), don't even waste your time or money trying o hook up a speedo. That stupid little hole and pressure tube will get clogged over and over and over again and it will drive you nuts cleaning it, picking at it, back blowing and flushing out the tube until you say to yourself ""Do I really care about this"". If you really want a speedo on the boat, buy a cheap one with air pressure hose that connects to a little plastic pick-up you can mount on the transom. Again, don't even waste your time with that lousy yamaha design. IF you have a GPS on your boat, do what EVERYONE does and look at the speed it is indicating to the 10th a MPH.","Most of these ""donate Boats"" and ""donate autos"" are scams to the max. Note that most, like this one, do not represent a specific charitable cause." +"I have 07 f40 it has the pilot tube for the speedo. to install do I just hook up tube to speedo +or do I need to get some kind of sending unit. +Tks.",most depth-fishfinders have this function,most depth-fishfinders have this function,"No shops close coils,plugs,points,etc please need direction" +"I have a Carolina Skiff 198 DLV with a Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Both are 2011. We were running the boat on the lake last weekend at full throttle. After 8 minutes at full throttle, the engine bogged down and just died. After an hour of attempts to cool down/restart, we gave up and were able to flag down a tow. I got home and began to troubleshoot. + +My first thought was gas. +Tested the fuel. +Changed the fuel/water separator. +New fuel filter. +Primed the line. +Checked the fuel pump, it's fine. + +She started for about 3 seconds and died after all that work. + +I thought maybe electrical, but why would she start for 3 seconds if it was electrical? I'm just baffled.","Pull the cowling and pull the fuel line that attaches to the bottom of the fuel rail that feeds the 4 injectors. Have someone stand back there with a mason jar or something holding that fuel line inside the jar. Key the ignition to the run (not start position) several times and and see if you get a 2-3 second blast of fuel out of that fuel line with each turn of the key to the run position... That turns on the HP fuel pump to build pressure before starting. If you get those strong continuous 2-3 second shots of fuel, you're getting fuel to the rail. If you lack a fuel pressure gage, have someone hold their thumb over that line tight and key it again (wearing eye protection)... should be able to tell if it is building some good fuel pressure. + + +If you've been running ethanol-blended gas and it is old, high RPM and vibration has a way of breaking lose lots of gum in the system in the engine and clogging the VST filter and the little filters in the fuel injectors. You can youtube ""DIY fuel injector cleaning""... Pull them, get a 12V power source to connect to them one by one.. You'll hear them ""click"" open when you attach the power to each one and while each is clicked open with power attached to it you can ""back-blow"" carb cleaner through them and blow out any gum/crap that may be clogging them. + +With regard to running a 4-stoke at WOT, I just don't do it. These aren't the old 2-strokes that can run WOT all day long. Lots of moving parts in these 4-strokes are really humming at 6,000 RPM.","Pull the cowling and pull the fuel line that attaches to the bottom of the fuel rail that feeds the 4 injectors. Have someone stand back there with a mason jar or something holding that fuel line inside the jar. Key the ignition to the run (not start position) several times and and see if you get a 2-3 second blast of fuel out of that fuel line with each turn of the key to the run position... That turns on the HP fuel pump to build pressure before starting. If you get those strong continuous 2-3 second shots of fuel, you're getting fuel to the rail. If you lack a fuel pressure gage, have someone hold their thumb over that line tight and key it again (wearing eye protection)... should be able to tell if it is building some good fuel pressure. + + +If you've been running ethanol-blended gas and it is old, high RPM and vibration has a way of breaking lose lots of gum in the system in the engine and clogging the VST filter and the little filters in the fuel injectors. You can youtube ""DIY fuel injector cleaning""... Pull them, get a 12V power source to connect to them one by one.. You'll hear them ""click"" open when you attach the power to each one and while each is clicked open with power attached to it you can ""back-blow"" carb cleaner through them and blow out any gum/crap that may be clogging them. + +With regard to running a 4-stoke at WOT, I just don't do it. These aren't the old 2-strokes that can run WOT all day long. Lots of moving parts in these 4-strokes are really humming at 6,000 RPM.","Update again. With motor cold, sprayed some gas oil mixture into both carbs, choked, hit starter, fired right up." +"I have a Carolina Skiff 198 DLV with a Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Both are 2011. We were running the boat on the lake last weekend at full throttle. After 8 minutes at full throttle, the engine bogged down and just died. After an hour of attempts to cool down/restart, we gave up and were able to flag down a tow. I got home and began to troubleshoot. + +My first thought was gas. +Tested the fuel. +Changed the fuel/water separator. +New fuel filter. +Primed the line. +Checked the fuel pump, it's fine. + +She started for about 3 seconds and died after all that work. + +I thought maybe electrical, but why would she start for 3 seconds if it was electrical? I'm just baffled.","I agree with not running at WOT,but others will disagree. You don't drive your car at redline and that""s a 4 stroke. If thread #2 doesn't show results, Test for a open gap spark,lightning blue snap. Has engine been overheated lately, Heat will play havoc with the electronics under the hood.","I agree with not running at WOT,but others will disagree. You don't drive your car at redline and that""s a 4 stroke. If thread #2 doesn't show results, Test for a open gap spark,lightning blue snap. Has engine been overheated lately, Heat will play havoc with the electronics under the hood.","boscoe said: + + + + 5A is the model identity. The motor should also be marked with its primary identification number. It will begin with the number 6. + +If parts are still available you can get them from any Yamaha UK outboard motor dealer. + +Click to expand... + + +hello many thanks,engine serial number is 644S 61411,any idea which year this was made" +"I have a Carolina Skiff 198 DLV with a Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Both are 2011. We were running the boat on the lake last weekend at full throttle. After 8 minutes at full throttle, the engine bogged down and just died. After an hour of attempts to cool down/restart, we gave up and were able to flag down a tow. I got home and began to troubleshoot. + +My first thought was gas. +Tested the fuel. +Changed the fuel/water separator. +New fuel filter. +Primed the line. +Checked the fuel pump, it's fine. + +She started for about 3 seconds and died after all that work. + +I thought maybe electrical, but why would she start for 3 seconds if it was electrical? I'm just baffled.","Thanks guys, I tested the fuel rail and everything looked good. I pulled a spark plug to check for spark and the engine started right up. Ran it for 20 minutes and she purred like a kitten. I can only draw two conclusions. + +1) Spark plug #2 boot was very loose. Not even sure it was on there. I'm not sure with all the electronics on these things if it will still start without 1 plug firing. +2) Bumping the engine without the #2 plug freed up water and let the engine burn fuel. The fuel/water separator had a pretty good amount of water in it. Fuel/water was rusty in color. I was pretty disappointed because it just had it's 200 hour maintenance done at the shop. If they actually did the maintenance, the separator only had 7 hours on it. I'm convinced they didnt' change it out. + +I appreciate the advice on the throttle. I've also heard mixed reviews. My mechanic talked me into a new prop so I could get her running at 6000 RPMs without issue. I typically keep her at 5000 RPM. I had her at about 5000 RPM when she bogged out. + +I may be looking for a new mechanic.","Thanks guys, I tested the fuel rail and everything looked good. I pulled a spark plug to check for spark and the engine started right up. Ran it for 20 minutes and she purred like a kitten. I can only draw two conclusions. + +1) Spark plug #2 boot was very loose. Not even sure it was on there. I'm not sure with all the electronics on these things if it will still start without 1 plug firing. +2) Bumping the engine without the #2 plug freed up water and let the engine burn fuel. The fuel/water separator had a pretty good amount of water in it. Fuel/water was rusty in color. I was pretty disappointed because it just had it's 200 hour maintenance done at the shop. If they actually did the maintenance, the separator only had 7 hours on it. I'm convinced they didnt' change it out. + +I appreciate the advice on the throttle. I've also heard mixed reviews. My mechanic talked me into a new prop so I could get her running at 6000 RPMs without issue. I typically keep her at 5000 RPM. I had her at about 5000 RPM when she bogged out. + +I may be looking for a new mechanic.","makomark said: + + + + There's no frequency content on the signals in the plug so there can't be any impedance issue (unless the pins/sockets are corroded). + +Guessing from your first pic, you have a single helm setup - which means the oil pressure sender and the coolant temp sender will be 'off' for a single station use.... + +And it appears you have a decent approach for finding the issue(s) with the tach & hour meter....just remember that each gauge needs TWO GOOD power connections... + +Click to expand... + + +Ok, this is all good information + +I'll R/R the Oil Sender + +Temperature is reading appropriately + +Found right hand dash Voltage diff from Left. So, R/R Starboard Alternator and now reading same voltage as Port, YAY! + +Proved out the Gray wire today, Dash to Module, R/R and Lubed every wire connection I could find. + +Looks like the Tach signal wire (Gray) is independent of the run circuit (Purple) wire. So, I assume the Tach function of Thunderbolt Module is a Secondary function to Ignition. In other words, The Engine shouldn't be Running when the Tach reads zero but, it is running rather well?!! Pretty Crazy, Huh?!! LOL!!! +I'll try another Thunderbolt module" +"I have a Carolina Skiff 198 DLV with a Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Both are 2011. We were running the boat on the lake last weekend at full throttle. After 8 minutes at full throttle, the engine bogged down and just died. After an hour of attempts to cool down/restart, we gave up and were able to flag down a tow. I got home and began to troubleshoot. + +My first thought was gas. +Tested the fuel. +Changed the fuel/water separator. +New fuel filter. +Primed the line. +Checked the fuel pump, it's fine. + +She started for about 3 seconds and died after all that work. + +I thought maybe electrical, but why would she start for 3 seconds if it was electrical? I'm just baffled.","Flywatt... Another thing that can be problematic with the F115 (learned this the hard way as well like everything) is the location of the VST tank is deep in the engine. I'm not saying this caused your problem based on what you described but it somethin to keep in mind when running it in the future... Running long or running fast generates ALOT of heat in the engine under the cowling. If you come to a stop and then shut it down they can be very tough to start again (especially if you are runnign ethanol-blended fuel with ethanol having a lower vapor point than gasoline. You can get a vapor lock with fuel/ethanol vapors in the VST tank filling the intake and creating a super-rich vapor situation that makes the engine almost impossible to re-start normally. If this happens you can advance the throttle (not in gear) to 1/2 -3/4 open and try starting... that will usually work and clear the vapor lock but be ready to yank back on the throttle to idle as soon as it fires. To avoid the problem altogether, always allow the engine to idle for 4-5 minutes and cool down after an extended or high speed run before shutting it off. If you don't, as soon as you shut it off hot the water drains from the block and the wter that was absorbing the heat is gone and it really starts to build heat under the cowling vaporizing fuel in the VST tank. Don't learn the hard way... The Yamaha manual says to allow it to idle and cool down for several minutes before shutting off. I didn't pay any attention to those instructions until I learned the hard way.","Flywatt... Another thing that can be problematic with the F115 (learned this the hard way as well like everything) is the location of the VST tank is deep in the engine. I'm not saying this caused your problem based on what you described but it somethin to keep in mind when running it in the future... Running long or running fast generates ALOT of heat in the engine under the cowling. If you come to a stop and then shut it down they can be very tough to start again (especially if you are runnign ethanol-blended fuel with ethanol having a lower vapor point than gasoline. You can get a vapor lock with fuel/ethanol vapors in the VST tank filling the intake and creating a super-rich vapor situation that makes the engine almost impossible to re-start normally. If this happens you can advance the throttle (not in gear) to 1/2 -3/4 open and try starting... that will usually work and clear the vapor lock but be ready to yank back on the throttle to idle as soon as it fires. To avoid the problem altogether, always allow the engine to idle for 4-5 minutes and cool down after an extended or high speed run before shutting it off. If you don't, as soon as you shut it off hot the water drains from the block and the wter that was absorbing the heat is gone and it really starts to build heat under the cowling vaporizing fuel in the VST tank. Don't learn the hard way... The Yamaha manual says to allow it to idle and cool down for several minutes before shutting off. I didn't pay any attention to those instructions until I learned the hard way.","Ayuh,... Hard to say, some tachs don't go to zero, when turned off.... + +Try it, if it don't read right,... Replace it..." +"I have a Carolina Skiff 198 DLV with a Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Both are 2011. We were running the boat on the lake last weekend at full throttle. After 8 minutes at full throttle, the engine bogged down and just died. After an hour of attempts to cool down/restart, we gave up and were able to flag down a tow. I got home and began to troubleshoot. + +My first thought was gas. +Tested the fuel. +Changed the fuel/water separator. +New fuel filter. +Primed the line. +Checked the fuel pump, it's fine. + +She started for about 3 seconds and died after all that work. + +I thought maybe electrical, but why would she start for 3 seconds if it was electrical? I'm just baffled.","deepsea21 said: + + + + Flywatt... Another thing that can be problematic with the F115 (learned this the hard way as well like everything) is the location of the VST tank is deep in the engine. I'm not saying this caused your problem based on what you described but it somethin to keep in mind when running it in the future... Running long or running fast generates ALOT of heat in the engine under the cowling. If you come to a stop and then shut it down they can be very tough to start again (especially if you are runnign ethanol-blended fuel with ethanol having a lower vapor point than gasoline. You can get a vapor lock with fuel/ethanol vapors in the VST tank filling the intake and creating a super-rich vapor situation that makes the engine almost impossible to re-start normally. If this happens you can advance the throttle (not in gear) to 1/2 -3/4 open and try starting... that will usually work and clear the vapor lock but be ready to yank back on the throttle to idle as soon as it fires. To avoid the problem altogether, always allow the engine to idle for 4-5 minutes and cool down after an extended or high speed run before shutting it off. If you don't, as soon as you shut it off hot the water drains from the block and the wter that was absorbing the heat is gone and it really starts to build heat under the cowling vaporizing fuel in the VST tank. Don't learn the hard way... The Yamaha manual says to allow it to idle and cool down for several minutes before shutting off. I didn't pay any attention to those instructions until I learned the hard way. + +Click to expand... + + +I really appreciate the advice. I will make sure she idles from now on. Just bought the boat a few weeks ago. This is my first four stroke. I'm learning a lot!","deepsea21 said: + + + + Flywatt... Another thing that can be problematic with the F115 (learned this the hard way as well like everything) is the location of the VST tank is deep in the engine. I'm not saying this caused your problem based on what you described but it somethin to keep in mind when running it in the future... Running long or running fast generates ALOT of heat in the engine under the cowling. If you come to a stop and then shut it down they can be very tough to start again (especially if you are runnign ethanol-blended fuel with ethanol having a lower vapor point than gasoline. You can get a vapor lock with fuel/ethanol vapors in the VST tank filling the intake and creating a super-rich vapor situation that makes the engine almost impossible to re-start normally. If this happens you can advance the throttle (not in gear) to 1/2 -3/4 open and try starting... that will usually work and clear the vapor lock but be ready to yank back on the throttle to idle as soon as it fires. To avoid the problem altogether, always allow the engine to idle for 4-5 minutes and cool down after an extended or high speed run before shutting it off. If you don't, as soon as you shut it off hot the water drains from the block and the wter that was absorbing the heat is gone and it really starts to build heat under the cowling vaporizing fuel in the VST tank. Don't learn the hard way... The Yamaha manual says to allow it to idle and cool down for several minutes before shutting off. I didn't pay any attention to those instructions until I learned the hard way. + +Click to expand... + + +I really appreciate the advice. I will make sure she idles from now on. Just bought the boat a few weeks ago. This is my first four stroke. I'm learning a lot!","Ayuh,.... Generally speakin', when the Cable is Shot, the Helm ain't far from it,... + +Get yerself a Helm, 'n Cable Kit, in the length ya need to replace the whole shebang,... + +'n, Ya, the motor end is the same,..." +"I have a Carolina Skiff 198 DLV with a Yamaha 115 4 stroke. Both are 2011. We were running the boat on the lake last weekend at full throttle. After 8 minutes at full throttle, the engine bogged down and just died. After an hour of attempts to cool down/restart, we gave up and were able to flag down a tow. I got home and began to troubleshoot. + +My first thought was gas. +Tested the fuel. +Changed the fuel/water separator. +New fuel filter. +Primed the line. +Checked the fuel pump, it's fine. + +She started for about 3 seconds and died after all that work. + +I thought maybe electrical, but why would she start for 3 seconds if it was electrical? I'm just baffled.","flywatt said: + + + + I really appreciate the advice. I will make sure she idles from now on. Just bought the boat a few weeks ago. This is my first four stroke. I'm learning a lot! + +Click to expand... + + +New boat and new to this F115? Lesson #2 I learned the hard way... If at all possible, DO NOT use ethanol-blended gas you buy at 99% of gas stations. Search online and locate the few stations close to you or a marina close to you that sells 100% gas. You pay more for it but after a few times of limping back to port and then wrenching my way into and out of my engine to clean the VST filter gummed up with that ethanol-blended gumming gas and pulling fuel injectors for cleaning I'll never run that ethanol crap it in my engine again. + +If you keep running ethanol blended gas (regardless of what additives you add to it) you'll be back here posting about more problems and your problems will be a clogged VST filter on the bottom of the high pressure fuel pump located DEEP in the engine and clogged fuel injectors. 1st time I went after that clogged VST filter took me about 5-6 hours to get in and out and I have ALOT of tools. + +Run 100% real gas if available and always add the Green color Marine Sta-bil with every fill-up at the recommended dose (not the red color as that is just a bunch of ethanol that was used we had ethanol-blended gas as ethanol bonds with water). If you have a spin-on Racor style fuel water seperator that will take care of water in fuel issues. If you don't, check the little filter in under the cowling in the back of the engine.. you'll see a red ring that sits on the bottom and will rise up if that filter collects any water. + +Replace that little filter every 2-3 years whether it needs it or not. Replace your thermostat every 3 years whether it needs it or not. replace your water pump impeller every 3 years whether it needs it or not. These things are cheap and pretty easily done on you own... A trip to the Yamaha Mafia Outboard Service Center is costly and you may as well re-mortgage the house for a new outboard these days. Do the above, cruise at 4200-4600 RPM in the ""sweet spot"" range and these F115's and all 4-stokes will deliver 1000's of hours of service just as the commercial fisherman know who rack up 1000's of hours and baby and take care of their 4-strokes.","flywatt said: + + + + I really appreciate the advice. I will make sure she idles from now on. Just bought the boat a few weeks ago. This is my first four stroke. I'm learning a lot! + +Click to expand... + + +New boat and new to this F115? Lesson #2 I learned the hard way... If at all possible, DO NOT use ethanol-blended gas you buy at 99% of gas stations. Search online and locate the few stations close to you or a marina close to you that sells 100% gas. You pay more for it but after a few times of limping back to port and then wrenching my way into and out of my engine to clean the VST filter gummed up with that ethanol-blended gumming gas and pulling fuel injectors for cleaning I'll never run that ethanol crap it in my engine again. + +If you keep running ethanol blended gas (regardless of what additives you add to it) you'll be back here posting about more problems and your problems will be a clogged VST filter on the bottom of the high pressure fuel pump located DEEP in the engine and clogged fuel injectors. 1st time I went after that clogged VST filter took me about 5-6 hours to get in and out and I have ALOT of tools. + +Run 100% real gas if available and always add the Green color Marine Sta-bil with every fill-up at the recommended dose (not the red color as that is just a bunch of ethanol that was used we had ethanol-blended gas as ethanol bonds with water). If you have a spin-on Racor style fuel water seperator that will take care of water in fuel issues. If you don't, check the little filter in under the cowling in the back of the engine.. you'll see a red ring that sits on the bottom and will rise up if that filter collects any water. + +Replace that little filter every 2-3 years whether it needs it or not. Replace your thermostat every 3 years whether it needs it or not. replace your water pump impeller every 3 years whether it needs it or not. These things are cheap and pretty easily done on you own... A trip to the Yamaha Mafia Outboard Service Center is costly and you may as well re-mortgage the house for a new outboard these days. Do the above, cruise at 4200-4600 RPM in the ""sweet spot"" range and these F115's and all 4-stokes will deliver 1000's of hours of service just as the commercial fisherman know who rack up 1000's of hours and baby and take care of their 4-strokes.","Here's a link that may help you get things sorted out...not 100% but I think it will get your much further ahead from where you are now: + +http://www.evdl.org/docs/ce-ah.pdf" +"I have twin 2008 Yamaha 115 HP four stroke. One of the motors stalls when cold started. It idles rough and then when tried to accelerate in neutral to keep it running it shuts down. Finally after a few tries, the outboard will run kind of rough and starts little by little to normalize apparently after it gets hot. Also there is apparently fuel sheen behind the boat on the water. Once the motor is hot and running for a bit, everything is fine again. What could this be ? THANKS !",Down load codes from engine,Down load codes from engine,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + +Check Engine Light +Diagnostic Trouble Codes +Remote Control + +I would check all battery connections including the battery switches.... And the Hub Power connection. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks." +"I have twin 2008 Yamaha 115 HP four stroke. One of the motors stalls when cold started. It idles rough and then when tried to accelerate in neutral to keep it running it shuts down. Finally after a few tries, the outboard will run kind of rough and starts little by little to normalize apparently after it gets hot. Also there is apparently fuel sheen behind the boat on the water. Once the motor is hot and running for a bit, everything is fine again. What could this be ? THANKS !",Thermostat gone bad and is frozen in the open position? Pull thermostat when cold and see if it is frozen in the open position - should be closed when cold.,Thermostat gone bad and is frozen in the open position? Pull thermostat when cold and see if it is frozen in the open position - should be closed when cold.,"Ricor said: + + + + So I took the thermostat off, which is 11 years old and looked new somehow, and backflushed the system. I did not see anything come out but it could have. The inside of the block looks good, no flaking or heavy corrosion. + +Put the lower unit back on, put it in water and it worked perfectly. Tried the Yamaha Flush System, that worked perfectly too. Go figure. Had to be a mud dobber that got in through the Yamaha Flush System that I left open... That is my only guess. + +Click to expand... + + +Glad to hear it is working again. It is strange you didn't see anything come out but who knows - could have been some mud that dissolved with the water or something. 11 year old thermostat? I say change it or at least put it in a small pot of room temp water on the stove and turn on the heat with a thermometer in the water - see that it opens and at what temp. A thermostat that freezes shut or fails can be the death of an engine (the overheat alarm won't tell you it's not opening!). Oil, fuel additives, filters, thermostats and water pump impellers are cheap. New outboards are EXPENSIVE!" +"I have twin 2008 Yamaha 115 HP four stroke. One of the motors stalls when cold started. It idles rough and then when tried to accelerate in neutral to keep it running it shuts down. Finally after a few tries, the outboard will run kind of rough and starts little by little to normalize apparently after it gets hot. Also there is apparently fuel sheen behind the boat on the water. Once the motor is hot and running for a bit, everything is fine again. What could this be ? THANKS !","Check fuel system, Water/fuel separators,filters,lines kinked, Gummed up fuel system","Check fuel system, Water/fuel separators,filters,lines kinked, Gummed up fuel system",Good Deal & glad it worked out! +"I have twin 2008 Yamaha 115 HP four stroke. One of the motors stalls when cold started. It idles rough and then when tried to accelerate in neutral to keep it running it shuts down. Finally after a few tries, the outboard will run kind of rough and starts little by little to normalize apparently after it gets hot. Also there is apparently fuel sheen behind the boat on the water. Once the motor is hot and running for a bit, everything is fine again. What could this be ? THANKS !",I missed this... Fuel sheen in the water? Can you tell if it is forming by the engine that is misbehaving? I know it is tough to tell as only a few drops will quickly spread and you won't be able to tell where it came from. While trying to start and starting the misbehaved engine have someone standing back there watching to see if some drops of fuel fall from the base of the engine and hit the water. Pull the cowling and smell for gas fumes... Could have a small cut/worn fuel line or fuel leak inside the engine. Any fuel leak from a hose or fitting inside the engine eventually makes it's way out through the small drain holes around the base. Drip-Drip. It may start running well because the fuel pumps have delivered enough pressure and filled air voids in the fuel system created by the leak or the air has been pushed through and passed created by a slow leak after some idling time.,I missed this... Fuel sheen in the water? Can you tell if it is forming by the engine that is misbehaving? I know it is tough to tell as only a few drops will quickly spread and you won't be able to tell where it came from. While trying to start and starting the misbehaved engine have someone standing back there watching to see if some drops of fuel fall from the base of the engine and hit the water. Pull the cowling and smell for gas fumes... Could have a small cut/worn fuel line or fuel leak inside the engine. Any fuel leak from a hose or fitting inside the engine eventually makes it's way out through the small drain holes around the base. Drip-Drip. It may start running well because the fuel pumps have delivered enough pressure and filled air voids in the fuel system created by the leak or the air has been pushed through and passed created by a slow leak after some idling time.,I would seek out a mechanic who works out of his house to avoid paying exorbitant shop rates +"I have a 1997 grady 272 with twin yam 225 efi engines with 650 hours. I have been battling issues all season after finding/removing water in the fuel tank. The starboard engine is giving me my latest headache. It starts, idles to 700 rpm then drops to 300 and stalls. It will restart after a while 1 hour but does the same thing. So far prior to this issue I changed the engine mounted fuel filter, l/p fuel pumps, cleaned the vst filter and thermostats. The last test run was awesome both engines ran/idled perfectly and with proper fuel consumption. When I slowed down to enter the marina that is when this problem started with the Stbd engine. + +Please help if possible, +Bob H","With a 272 Grady you should probably have one (or twin) Racor type external fuel/water filter/seperators. Did you spin them off and empty them into a glass jar to check if they have water in them or could be filled with water? If you don't have them, buy them and install them... I'd install one in-line for each engine. If you can install them externally (outside a closed compartment) you can use a Racor filter with a clear plastic bottom and drain plug you can visibly check for water and drain off if you see it. If you need to install them in a closed compartment, you can't/shouldn't use the type with a plastic viewing cup and drain but one that is all metal (looks like a big oil filter for a car) and can only be checked by pouring what is inside into a glass jar and seeing if it trapped water. No plastic viewing cups that could crack and spill fuel into a closed compartment allowed.","With a 272 Grady you should probably have one (or twin) Racor type external fuel/water filter/seperators. Did you spin them off and empty them into a glass jar to check if they have water in them or could be filled with water? If you don't have them, buy them and install them... I'd install one in-line for each engine. If you can install them externally (outside a closed compartment) you can use a Racor filter with a clear plastic bottom and drain plug you can visibly check for water and drain off if you see it. If you need to install them in a closed compartment, you can't/shouldn't use the type with a plastic viewing cup and drain but one that is all metal (looks like a big oil filter for a car) and can only be checked by pouring what is inside into a glass jar and seeing if it trapped water. No plastic viewing cups that could crack and spill fuel into a closed compartment allowed.","480/277 said: + + + + That's what my mechanic told me. I have water in one cylinder too. Hopefully it's the head gasket he is replacing this or next week. Fingers crossed. + +Click to expand... + + +I hope for both our sakes lol" +"Hi all - im helping a friend get his 30hp running.. some guy went and tinkered with the timing etc(!), so i reset the marks per the manual (i have to add, what a great setup yamaha! genius! no need for a timing light! - i might do the same with mariner / trigger - + +anyway.. so the timing is now set at 5 ATDC and WOT at 25 BTDC (using magneto marks and flywheel).. + + + +first thing i noticed, is the top and bottom carb butterflies are not in sync with middle carb, they seem to open later.. surely this is wrong? +I set the carb link via the 3 screw plates right? those things are so tight we couldnt get them to budge! +When i disconnect the throttle cable and move the throttle manually from idle to wot, the timing marks are perfect, however when we hook up the throttle, it does have enough travel to reach WOT? im not too familiar with yam boxes, this is the regular 701 type i think.. do they have a way of setting it for more travel, or could the guy have switched the gear and throttle cables? I know some guy tinkered with it and switched something - not sure.. + + + +Surely all three carb butterflies should be 90 degrees at WOT? and is there an idle circuit cos we cant get it to idle unless screwing the carbs waaay open? + +thanks all! hoe to get him up and running! + + +fyi new fuel lines, hoses, fresh fuel, new plugs, mixture 100:1 will do spark gap test and compression test bit later, motor looks really neat - fresh water!","I say all three carbs should open exactly the same. Any carb that doesn't and runs lean compared to the other two at WOT or throughout the RPM range runs the risk of fried rings/scored cyl walls/melted cylinder head as it will be running lean and not getting the same amount of fuel (and the lubricating oil in it) as the other two. + +Can't comment much on the cables... Is this a single lever throttle/shifter actuating two cables or seperate throttle & shift levers each actuating its own cable? There should be adjustments for the cables in engine where the plastic sleeves that house the push/pull rods inside the cables are anchored to a bracket. Are there some adjustable rings that allow you to move the cable housing fore and aft thereby adjusting the throw of each rod in either direction? When you move from WOT on the throttle to closed/idle/neutral position does the throttle linkage in the engine reach the fully closed position before the throttle lever fully reaches idle/neutral position? if so is sounds like it needs adjusted such that it reaches fully closed/idle when the throtle lever reaches the idle/closed/neutral position... That adjustment should equate to more travel as you advance from idle to WOT.","I say all three carbs should open exactly the same. Any carb that doesn't and runs lean compared to the other two at WOT or throughout the RPM range runs the risk of fried rings/scored cyl walls/melted cylinder head as it will be running lean and not getting the same amount of fuel (and the lubricating oil in it) as the other two. + +Can't comment much on the cables... Is this a single lever throttle/shifter actuating two cables or seperate throttle & shift levers each actuating its own cable? There should be adjustments for the cables in engine where the plastic sleeves that house the push/pull rods inside the cables are anchored to a bracket. Are there some adjustable rings that allow you to move the cable housing fore and aft thereby adjusting the throw of each rod in either direction? When you move from WOT on the throttle to closed/idle/neutral position does the throttle linkage in the engine reach the fully closed position before the throttle lever fully reaches idle/neutral position? if so is sounds like it needs adjusted such that it reaches fully closed/idle when the throtle lever reaches the idle/closed/neutral position... That adjustment should equate to more travel as you advance from idle to WOT.",sounds like a weak fuel pump +"I always add stabilizer when I fill the tank and always put the boat away with a full tank - like I dis last October. Didn't winterize the boat because the climate here in NC is typically mild during the winter and I often go fishing during the winter months. But things change and for reasons that don't matter now I have not ben able to use my boat till now. Rebuilt carbs during recoup from surgery last sprng and it ran fine the few times I used the boat last fall. Now I can't get it started. +Looking for tips that might help me get started before I remove the air box and start the analytical process seriously. I know starting fluid is not wise.","stale fuel,gummed up fuel lines,primer bulb,filters,fuel/water separator, A fuel/oil mix can be sprayed into carb instead of starter fluid. When all else fails troubleshooting 101. Compression test ,spark test,fuel diagnosis, Eliminate one at a time","stale fuel,gummed up fuel lines,primer bulb,filters,fuel/water separator, A fuel/oil mix can be sprayed into carb instead of starter fluid. When all else fails troubleshooting 101. Compression test ,spark test,fuel diagnosis, Eliminate one at a time",Ok I have a friend who has a compression kit. He's going to help me check the motor sometime in the next few days. Thank you +"I always add stabilizer when I fill the tank and always put the boat away with a full tank - like I dis last October. Didn't winterize the boat because the climate here in NC is typically mild during the winter and I often go fishing during the winter months. But things change and for reasons that don't matter now I have not ben able to use my boat till now. Rebuilt carbs during recoup from surgery last sprng and it ran fine the few times I used the boat last fall. Now I can't get it started. +Looking for tips that might help me get started before I remove the air box and start the analytical process seriously. I know starting fluid is not wise.","Were/are you using ethanol-blended gas (what you buy at 99% of gas stations) or 100% real gas available at a few stations and often at marinas? What brand/type of fuel stabilizer do you use? If you say it was ethanol-blended fuel and you add the regular Red Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer (adding even more ethanol) I'd bet your carbs and fuel jets in them have gummed up and need pulled and cleaned. + +Pulled and cleaned, re-pumped up with fuel via the fuel bulb I'd bet the engine will then fire but will run rough like it is over-choked until you burn through that stale ethanol-blended gas. If you smell the gas, and it doesn't smell like gasoline but more like diesel fuel, heating oil, varnish, paint thinner, Kerosine, etc. you have some real old & stale gas on your hands.","Were/are you using ethanol-blended gas (what you buy at 99% of gas stations) or 100% real gas available at a few stations and often at marinas? What brand/type of fuel stabilizer do you use? If you say it was ethanol-blended fuel and you add the regular Red Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer (adding even more ethanol) I'd bet your carbs and fuel jets in them have gummed up and need pulled and cleaned. + +Pulled and cleaned, re-pumped up with fuel via the fuel bulb I'd bet the engine will then fire but will run rough like it is over-choked until you burn through that stale ethanol-blended gas. If you smell the gas, and it doesn't smell like gasoline but more like diesel fuel, heating oil, varnish, paint thinner, Kerosine, etc. you have some real old & stale gas on your hands.","I agree,very good motors" +"I always add stabilizer when I fill the tank and always put the boat away with a full tank - like I dis last October. Didn't winterize the boat because the climate here in NC is typically mild during the winter and I often go fishing during the winter months. But things change and for reasons that don't matter now I have not ben able to use my boat till now. Rebuilt carbs during recoup from surgery last sprng and it ran fine the few times I used the boat last fall. Now I can't get it started. +Looking for tips that might help me get started before I remove the air box and start the analytical process seriously. I know starting fluid is not wise.","Thanks for the replies, guys. The comment about the blended fuel scares me. Didn't think the blended fuel would be a problem, and have used the ""regular"" Stabil. I'm going to drain the tank, refill with non-bended fuel (when i find it), and hope to get it started to burn out what's in the carbs. Keep your fingers crossed for me, and thanks again.","Thanks for the replies, guys. The comment about the blended fuel scares me. Didn't think the blended fuel would be a problem, and have used the ""regular"" Stabil. I'm going to drain the tank, refill with non-bended fuel (when i find it), and hope to get it started to burn out what's in the carbs. Keep your fingers crossed for me, and thanks again.","Am going to replace the unit. Thanks very much for the help. +-Dt" +"I always add stabilizer when I fill the tank and always put the boat away with a full tank - like I dis last October. Didn't winterize the boat because the climate here in NC is typically mild during the winter and I often go fishing during the winter months. But things change and for reasons that don't matter now I have not ben able to use my boat till now. Rebuilt carbs during recoup from surgery last sprng and it ran fine the few times I used the boat last fall. Now I can't get it started. +Looking for tips that might help me get started before I remove the air box and start the analytical process seriously. I know starting fluid is not wise.","rikclark said: + + + + Thanks for the replies, guys. The comment about the blended fuel scares me. Didn't think the blended fuel would be a problem, and have used the ""regular"" Stabil. I'm going to drain the tank, refill with non-bended fuel (when i find it), and hope to get it started to burn out what's in the carbs. Keep your fingers crossed for me, and thanks again. + +Click to expand... + + +Welcome to probably learning the hard way as I did. Ethanol-blended fuel is an absolute nightmare when left sitting in the tank and the engine. I got so sick of wrenching my way into the depths of the engine cleaning clogged filters, sending out fuel injectors, etc when things would gum up I stopped using it 3 years ago. For the premium you pay for non-ethanol gas it is $ so well spent... The difference between enjoying your boat and wrenching on it the engine ever year with breakdown after breakdown. When you refil with 100% gas and pump/flush it through the system getting rid of all stale gas, maybe it will start. If it does add a double dose of SeaFoam fuel treatment (available at any auto parts store) to the fuel and maybe you can run it and see if it will clean out any rough-running situation over a tank full of gas. If not, time to pull and clean the carbs. Going forward, add the GREEN color Marine Sta-bil to the fuel at the proper dose ALL THE TIME (not just for storage). The standard red color sta-bil is primarily ethanol (so you're just adding more to the problem by using it) and cleaning agents. The Green color is just cleaning agents at about 3x the concentration of the red. + +Don't worry about water in fuel if you have a fuel water seperator (Racor style or such) and you probably have a small filter under the engine cowling with a red ring in the bottom of the vessle it sits in that will rise up and inform you of trapped water in the the filter there as it also acts as a small fuel/water seperator.","rikclark said: + + + + Thanks for the replies, guys. The comment about the blended fuel scares me. Didn't think the blended fuel would be a problem, and have used the ""regular"" Stabil. I'm going to drain the tank, refill with non-bended fuel (when i find it), and hope to get it started to burn out what's in the carbs. Keep your fingers crossed for me, and thanks again. + +Click to expand... + + +Welcome to probably learning the hard way as I did. Ethanol-blended fuel is an absolute nightmare when left sitting in the tank and the engine. I got so sick of wrenching my way into the depths of the engine cleaning clogged filters, sending out fuel injectors, etc when things would gum up I stopped using it 3 years ago. For the premium you pay for non-ethanol gas it is $ so well spent... The difference between enjoying your boat and wrenching on it the engine ever year with breakdown after breakdown. When you refil with 100% gas and pump/flush it through the system getting rid of all stale gas, maybe it will start. If it does add a double dose of SeaFoam fuel treatment (available at any auto parts store) to the fuel and maybe you can run it and see if it will clean out any rough-running situation over a tank full of gas. If not, time to pull and clean the carbs. Going forward, add the GREEN color Marine Sta-bil to the fuel at the proper dose ALL THE TIME (not just for storage). The standard red color sta-bil is primarily ethanol (so you're just adding more to the problem by using it) and cleaning agents. The Green color is just cleaning agents at about 3x the concentration of the red. + +Don't worry about water in fuel if you have a fuel water seperator (Racor style or such) and you probably have a small filter under the engine cowling with a red ring in the bottom of the vessle it sits in that will rise up and inform you of trapped water in the the filter there as it also acts as a small fuel/water seperator.","Section B is a tad under 1 ¾” + +Section D is a tad over 1” + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Ya gotta match sections B, 'n C, to the weight ratin' ya want,.... section D will work out by itself,...." +"Motor quit suddenly. No instrument panel indications. Would not turn over. Left sitting for awhile then all ok. I think probably a bad connection somewhere. +Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this motor? Battery is fine, fuses seem fine???","Check main wiring harness,pin connectors, all grounds, clean all battery contacts,terminals,wiring,etc. possible corrosion somewhere in wiring.Break out a volt meter and start probing around battery ,starter&solenoid.Sounds like a high resistance short in batt. cables,starter circuit.","Check main wiring harness,pin connectors, all grounds, clean all battery contacts,terminals,wiring,etc. possible corrosion somewhere in wiring.Break out a volt meter and start probing around battery ,starter&solenoid.Sounds like a high resistance short in batt. cables,starter circuit.","Ayuh,... That sorta Depends... +It Depends on the original construction,... +And, it may Depend on whether you can get to the backside... + +If it's balsa core constructed, ya might be able to dig out the rot, 'n repack the void with a resin putty... + +If ya can reach the backside, you could laminate fresh wood in-place..." +"Motor quit suddenly. No instrument panel indications. Would not turn over. Left sitting for awhile then all ok. I think probably a bad connection somewhere. +Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this motor? Battery is fine, fuses seem fine???","I would look at battery connections first, clean terminals , vaseline on posts +and tighten up cable connectors","I would look at battery connections first, clean terminals , vaseline on posts +and tighten up cable connectors","Slipcork said: + + + + Always put a water pump in your motor if any question. they are the life of the motor, and way to cheap not to do it. As far as the orange tubing is, I'm not sure. Must just have a black tube going to the right side of the motor. But it can be unhooked at the power head if in question. Plus your motor should have a thermostat in it. Might be bad and keeping water from passing. Can take it out and run motor to see it water passes. + +Click to expand... + +Hi and thanks for the reply + +Managed to clear the waterways - bit of fiddling with a piece of wire and then used a bicycle pump with football adaptor loaded with distilled white wine vinegar into the passageway behind the thermostat - or at least where the thermostat should be. Once fluid appeared at the bottom, I refitted the impeller, fired up and ran the engine in a solution of 50 50 white wine vinegar and water until the tell tale pissed like a good un. Then flushed with clean water. Just waiting for the thermostat and I'm on the water. + +I hope OP had a similar result" +"Motor quit suddenly. No instrument panel indications. Would not turn over. Left sitting for awhile then all ok. I think probably a bad connection somewhere. +Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this motor? Battery is fine, fuses seem fine???","johnnygjr said: + + + + Check main wiring harness,pin connectors, all grounds, clean all battery contacts,terminals,wiring,etc. possible corrosion somewhere in wiring.Break out a volt meter and start probing around battery ,starter&solenoid.Sounds like a high resistance short in batt. cables,starter circuit. + +Click to expand... + +That was good info found loose connection on motor. Main ground from battery. Tightened and now ok.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Check main wiring harness,pin connectors, all grounds, clean all battery contacts,terminals,wiring,etc. possible corrosion somewhere in wiring.Break out a volt meter and start probing around battery ,starter&solenoid.Sounds like a high resistance short in batt. cables,starter circuit. + +Click to expand... + +That was good info found loose connection on motor. Main ground from battery. Tightened and now ok.",Mercury 1986 115hp cable steer steering @ the front���� +"Motor quit suddenly. No instrument panel indications. Would not turn over. Left sitting for awhile then all ok. I think probably a bad connection somewhere. +Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this motor? Battery is fine, fuses seem fine???","Good luck for rest of summer,Happy boating! Thanks for the reply!","Good luck for rest of summer,Happy boating! Thanks for the reply!",The base setting is 5/8ths turn outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 1/4 turn. +"The other day I ran up the bayou a few miles, then shut her down at a sandbar to swim. When I went to leave the electric start would not work. So, I back up pull started it, and made my way back in just fine. Now my electric start wont work, and it wont shift into reverse unless cranked. I checked fuses, and I'm pretty sure the connection from battery to motor is good. Does anyone have any idea what it could be?","Pull cables from battery and clean terminals and all wiring connectors thoroughly. Clean grounds at starter& solenoid also. Fully charge battery and have load tested at a/parts store. If battery passes test ,check for 12.4-12.8 volts at battery terminal on starter,and solenoid. Check for continuity on cables from battery to starter+&-,disconnected from batt with dvm.","Pull cables from battery and clean terminals and all wiring connectors thoroughly. Clean grounds at starter& solenoid also. Fully charge battery and have load tested at a/parts store. If battery passes test ,check for 12.4-12.8 volts at battery terminal on starter,and solenoid. Check for continuity on cables from battery to starter+&-,disconnected from batt with dvm.",Sounds like it is not running on all cylinders.------Check for STRONG spark on all leads. +"The other day I ran up the bayou a few miles, then shut her down at a sandbar to swim. When I went to leave the electric start would not work. So, I back up pull started it, and made my way back in just fine. Now my electric start wont work, and it wont shift into reverse unless cranked. I checked fuses, and I'm pretty sure the connection from battery to motor is good. Does anyone have any idea what it could be?","johnnygjr said: + + + + Pull cables from battery and clean terminals and all wiring connectors thoroughly. Clean grounds at starter& solenoid also. Fully charge battery and have load tested at a/parts store. If battery passes test ,check for 12.4-12.8 volts at battery terminal on starter,and solenoid. Check for continuity on cables from battery to starter+&-,disconnected from batt with dvm. + +Click to expand... + + +Once again, as I've stated previously... The #1 best investment one can make is in a Multimeter or DVM (Digital Volt Meter) and watch a few youtube videos on how to use it before you start playing around with it. For less than $20 you can have a diagnostic tool in your hand that can save you $1000's.","johnnygjr said: + + + + Pull cables from battery and clean terminals and all wiring connectors thoroughly. Clean grounds at starter& solenoid also. Fully charge battery and have load tested at a/parts store. If battery passes test ,check for 12.4-12.8 volts at battery terminal on starter,and solenoid. Check for continuity on cables from battery to starter+&-,disconnected from batt with dvm. + +Click to expand... + + +Once again, as I've stated previously... The #1 best investment one can make is in a Multimeter or DVM (Digital Volt Meter) and watch a few youtube videos on how to use it before you start playing around with it. For less than $20 you can have a diagnostic tool in your hand that can save you $1000's.","Yes but its effectiveness will be driven by how much water remains in the tank (size and pick up tube details). Inspect the fill cap o-ring to ensure its integrity before proceding...it is a common 'leak point'. + +There are many fuel service outfits that will 'filter' the contents of your tank by circulating it thru their truck mounted system - they call it ""polishing"" when applied to diesel fuel. Check with your local fuel station to see if they can point you to a service provider. Many a local marine mechanic can do the same. WWW searches are also helpful. + +You also need to make sure you haven't experienced the rath of ethanol and its phase separation process....many www articles on this one too." +"Hello and Heeeeellllp !!!!! + + +I have a Yamaha F40 2002 and has water in motor oil + +I spoke with one mechanic at Yamaha and he said it was one of the gasket under the engine head was leaking so to be safe I changed all gaskets that are under the motor head and thought and hoped that everything was in order but no, it is still water in oil + + + +I've screwed bolts with approximately right moment , the bolts should have a torque of 21Nm , key I spent went to 20Nm also tightened I bit extra . + + +Is there anyone who has been involved in similar or knows where it can play water ???","I'm reading the manual, and it says that after you change the gaskets, you should also install a drain screw. But that instruction is for when you change the oil. The only reason why I'm stating it, is because the dealer told you to change the gaskets, so I'm assuming there is water in the oil b/c the drain screw was not installed.","I'm reading the manual, and it says that after you change the gaskets, you should also install a drain screw. But that instruction is for when you change the oil. The only reason why I'm stating it, is because the dealer told you to change the gaskets, so I'm assuming there is water in the oil b/c the drain screw was not installed.","Let's first start with the basics...what is your engines model & year. + +Did you confirm no spark at plugs before meter testing coils? If not, that's where you start, then work your way back towards cdi." +"Hi, I have trawled the web and am so confused.....I have a Yamaha outboard motor serial number 40HMO 6H4 S 184080 The only thing that I have determined is that it is a 40HP short shaft. Can anyone help me to identify what year this engine was made. I know it is old, it runs well but I would like to identify it's age so that I can try and find a Maintenance Manual for it. Any help appreciated, thanks","Those #s don't correspond with any thing on yamaha engine identification chart. hmo could stand for H=tiller control,M=manual trim& manual start,O=1992","Those #s don't correspond with any thing on yamaha engine identification chart. hmo could stand for H=tiller control,M=manual trim& manual start,O=1992","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + This is the best advice you will ever get. + +Clean the boat and sell the boat. + + Have a professional look at the next one you purchase. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... As usual, yer dead on Right Chris,..." +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + +get rid of your signature and i will help ya","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + +get rid of your signature and i will help ya","Thanks Bumperfood, I have already had a look at this video, unfortunately it shows wrong side of outboard, Got a manual on its way so hope i can solve my problem , got really good photo from yamahas and this was great help +Thanks again" +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + +Looks like ya didn't want ot help anyway. What wrong with my signature look at your signature","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + +Looks like ya didn't want ot help anyway. What wrong with my signature look at your signature","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + +i dont sell anything + +might want to read the forum rules" +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + +i dont sell anything + +might want to read the forum rules","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + +i dont sell anything + +might want to read the forum rules","Matt Mannington said: + + + + Hi Chris +I have done this and the only time i can get the light to go out is if i remove the main fuse ro the ECU or by unplugging the ECU. Does thisnmean the ECU is bad? + +Click to expand... + + +Don't run out and buy an ECU yet. $$$$ Where are you located?" +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + +might want to read up on the primer valve","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + +might want to read up on the primer valve","If you want the shine all the time then I'd say a good grade of varnish (UV Stabilized) is one option....that said, I personally prefer to use oil on teak..." +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>",so you sync and linked it????,so you sync and linked it????,What are you doing to get it to start and run again for 14 seconds? +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + + + +justintime said: + + + + might want to read up on the primer valve + +Click to expand... + +Hello, I have the same issue with the same engine. +Hard as hell to start, cleaned the carbs multiple times. +Just how do the enriching valves work?","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + + + +justintime said: + + + + might want to read up on the primer valve + +Click to expand... + +Hello, I have the same issue with the same engine. +Hard as hell to start, cleaned the carbs multiple times. +Just how do the enriching valves work?","ok thanks, I do not have gauge for RPM. so would need to research how to check" +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","I just went through the same problems with my 05- F60. +It would sometimes take up to 10 cranks to fire. +Finally ran a can of Seafoam through 2 - tanks of gas and now it's starting 1st or 2nd time","I just went through the same problems with my 05- F60. +It would sometimes take up to 10 cranks to fire. +Finally ran a can of Seafoam through 2 - tanks of gas and now it's starting 1st or 2nd time","Alan S said: + + + + Thank you. Yes I disconnected the hose at the pee hole but not on the block end. I will try detaching it there. Will it hurt to use some compressed air? Alan + +Click to expand... + + +No, compressed air if fine. + + + + +Alan S said: + + + + .....unclogging the pee hole with a paper clip + +Click to expand... + + +If debris was lodged in the telltale hose nearest the water exit then its possible there is more debris in the hose nearest the block. Water discharge from the telltale hose is not the only point of water exiting the cooling system....there are multiple points on the LU as well. So if you see water exiting these LU points, but do not see water exiting the telltale, and your overheat alarm doesn't trigger, then its safe to assume water is reaching/cooling the motor." +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + + + +Don Kaminski said: + + + + Hello, I have the same issue with the same engine. +Hard as hell to start, cleaned the carbs multiple times. +Just how do the enriching valves work? + +Click to expand... + + +Prime start system enriches the fuel to all cylinders at cold start. +Once running the motor charging system sends voltage to the heater unit and it warms up a wax pellet that pushes a needle into a seat to close off the passage.","Re: 60HP Carb 4-Stroke Hard Starting + + + +Don Kaminski said: + + + + Hello, I have the same issue with the same engine. +Hard as hell to start, cleaned the carbs multiple times. +Just how do the enriching valves work? + +Click to expand... + + +Prime start system enriches the fuel to all cylinders at cold start. +Once running the motor charging system sends voltage to the heater unit and it warms up a wax pellet that pushes a needle into a seat to close off the passage.","guess you meant, ah duh...just wondered why/how water would be getting in to that space. New boater." +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","Seems when I leave it for a week without running, it's difficult to start. +If I go to use it the next day, it will start up fine.","Seems when I leave it for a week without running, it's difficult to start. +If I go to use it the next day, it will start up fine.","Has anyone had an issue with an air lock in the VST? I.E. If the VST can't vent itself during low speed filling, could the back pressure from the trapped air prevent the lift pump from filling the VST? Just a guess." +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","Ok, for anyone having the same problem. +Pump the ball until hard and then keep pumping it 4 or 5 times. +It seems this helps and usually starts 1 or 2 cranks","Ok, for anyone having the same problem. +Pump the ball until hard and then keep pumping it 4 or 5 times. +It seems this helps and usually starts 1 or 2 cranks","Under what operating conditions? + +Is it temperature related or oil pressure related? What is your Yamaha tachometer telling you?" +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","Starting procedure must be adhered to,consult owners manual for procedure.","Starting procedure must be adhered to,consult owners manual for procedure.","Chuck1234 said: + + + + Have the Yamaha service manual for my S130 TLRV. However, it is lacking in the carb rebuild section. Anyone know of a detailed manual for rebuilding 2 stroke V4 Yamaha carbs? + +Click to expand... + + + +All you'll need is the carb parts blow out diagram. This should be in your manual. You'll want to order a standard carb kit for your engines year/model, one kit for each carb. Unless the carb floats are damaged you won't need to replace (to test floats, submerge them in a cup of water..check for air leaks). + +Careful not to strip the head screws. Each screw has a specific driver intended to be used to loosen. The parts blow out points you to where all the jets are located. Each jet needs to be removed, soaked, then cleared of debris. You want to be able to see right through the orifice. Install new gaskets, screws, needle valves, etc. That's it." +"We have an '04 F60TLRC that is real hard to start. So far we have checked the following: +Fuel is new and clean (no water) +Compression 120# on all 4 +Spark seems week and erratic SOMETIMES and sometimes it's good. +#1 spark plug is clean and gray/brown +#2-3-4 spark plugs are sooty +Swapped coils from top to bottom to no avail. +Rebuilt Carbs TWICE, disassembled and cleaned in ultrasonic cleaner both times. Replaced major gaskets and ""8"" o-rings on engine side of the intake. + +When it does start it runs alot smoother now, but still hard starting. + +Any help is surely appreciated. +JOhn ><>","johnnygjr said: + + + + Starting procedure must be adhered to,consult owners manual for procedure. + +Click to expand... + + +This idea was suggested by a mechanic after many months of frustration. +It works and it's not in the starting procdure","johnnygjr said: + + + + Starting procedure must be adhered to,consult owners manual for procedure. + +Click to expand... + + +This idea was suggested by a mechanic after many months of frustration. +It works and it's not in the starting procdure","The 150hp 2-strokes weight the same as the 200hp motors as far as I remember, they were pretty much the same motor ...." +"My 1999 2 hp Yammy (2MSHY) will only stay running with the choke engaged. I have already removed the carb and did a cleaning. Lots of cheese in there after sitting for 5 years. Cleared out all passages and jets; cleaned bowl. Didn't do any gaskets or seals. Didn't mess with float & valve. +Must be too lean right? Only one adjustment screw--""Pilot Screw"" according to engine diagrams on the web. It is currently set at 2 ¼ turns out. I have tried to tweak it in/out but it makes no difference. +Can anyone help out? +Is the pilot screw for adjusting fuel or air? +Any idea of proper setting? +Something I might have missed? + +Thanks","You still have a fuel restriction issue. Are you using old tank,fuel lines, old fuel mixed with new? Was fuel pump cleaned,serviced,Is there a filter that needs replacing? If carb was gummed up so is pump. You might want to look at water pump for dry rot on impeller 5 years??","You still have a fuel restriction issue. Are you using old tank,fuel lines, old fuel mixed with new? Was fuel pump cleaned,serviced,Is there a filter that needs replacing? If carb was gummed up so is pump. You might want to look at water pump for dry rot on impeller 5 years??",the drain hole should have a rubber grommet..there should be a piece of pvc cut to make a tight fit in the grommet...the pvc just pushes into the hole with the grommet...the pvc should be but to a length that will allow overflow to drain...when you pull your boat out of the water then just pull the pvc and allow the well to completely drain..when you launch the boat and do not want to use the live well just install the pvc before launching...this will prevent you from hauling a load of water around all day.. +"My 1999 2 hp Yammy (2MSHY) will only stay running with the choke engaged. I have already removed the carb and did a cleaning. Lots of cheese in there after sitting for 5 years. Cleared out all passages and jets; cleaned bowl. Didn't do any gaskets or seals. Didn't mess with float & valve. +Must be too lean right? Only one adjustment screw--""Pilot Screw"" according to engine diagrams on the web. It is currently set at 2 ¼ turns out. I have tried to tweak it in/out but it makes no difference. +Can anyone help out? +Is the pilot screw for adjusting fuel or air? +Any idea of proper setting? +Something I might have missed? + +Thanks","Thanks for the ideas. I re-cleaned the carb and went a bit deeper-- disassembled everything. +Reset retaining clip on main jet needle to run richer. She's purrin' now. +By the way all you lucky Yammy 2HP people -- that single ""pilot screw"" on the left of the carburator adjusts how far down the throttle valve and main jet needle sits at minimum throttle. It is sort of a ""stop"" so you don't kill the engine when you set the throttle at its lowest point.","Thanks for the ideas. I re-cleaned the carb and went a bit deeper-- disassembled everything. +Reset retaining clip on main jet needle to run richer. She's purrin' now. +By the way all you lucky Yammy 2HP people -- that single ""pilot screw"" on the left of the carburator adjusts how far down the throttle valve and main jet needle sits at minimum throttle. It is sort of a ""stop"" so you don't kill the engine when you set the throttle at its lowest point.","I paint, spread sand. When the paint is dry I remove excess sand and paint again to seal in sand." +"My 1999 2 hp Yammy (2MSHY) will only stay running with the choke engaged. I have already removed the carb and did a cleaning. Lots of cheese in there after sitting for 5 years. Cleared out all passages and jets; cleaned bowl. Didn't do any gaskets or seals. Didn't mess with float & valve. +Must be too lean right? Only one adjustment screw--""Pilot Screw"" according to engine diagrams on the web. It is currently set at 2 ¼ turns out. I have tried to tweak it in/out but it makes no difference. +Can anyone help out? +Is the pilot screw for adjusting fuel or air? +Any idea of proper setting? +Something I might have missed? + +Thanks","geomy, sounds like it's time to go racing with that 2HP, LOL,good luck!!","geomy, sounds like it's time to go racing with that 2HP, LOL,good luck!!","timguy said: + + + + Sometimes the castings are imperfect and have thin spots. Do you have a photo of the affected area? I have welded blocks and lower units on freeze cracks. Some even without dismantling. This is where a mig will work and a tig will not. Here is a sample photo, this unit was severely damaged. Merc Optimax. Hard rock strike, cracked, with bent prop shaft. If the damage is isolated and accessible, a good and experienced mig welder may help you. Jet skis can be repaired too, I have done them, but it can be tricky. Some aluminum alloys will put a good welder to shame. For most work, and even propeller repair, I prefer Hobart wire ER4043 .035 on straight Argon, not tri-mix gas. Run about 25 to 30 psi. Heat is so delicately critical, but when done right, it will likely last for years and years. + +Click to expand... + +Trying to get a picture on here but having problems getting to attach to posts" +"I am overhauling the water pump in my 1999 Yamaha 2 HP and can't get the oil seals to seat in the pump housing. +The Yamaha pump rebuild kit came with two seals that are the same size and are supposed to sit on top of each other. The problem is that the channel through the housing is ""stepped"" and the first seal gets hung up on it. +Any help would be greatly appreciated.","PROBLEM SOLVED. +On to the carburator","PROBLEM SOLVED. +On to the carburator",How did you test for spark? Did you use an open air gap test? +"I am overhauling the water pump in my 1999 Yamaha 2 HP and can't get the oil seals to seat in the pump housing. +The Yamaha pump rebuild kit came with two seals that are the same size and are supposed to sit on top of each other. The problem is that the channel through the housing is ""stepped"" and the first seal gets hung up on it. +Any help would be greatly appreciated.",Is carburator running hot also??LOL just kidding!,Is carburator running hot also??LOL just kidding!,Most 2 strokes do not run well with a hole in the crankcase.------But are you talking about the gearcase / propeller area.-------Drain holes are normal there.----So post pictures so we talk the same lingo. +"I'm having an intermittent issue with the engine on a 15hp 4 Stroke Outboard Engine. While there are times when I start it up and it runs great, more frequently, it does not throttle up at all. Instead it seems to attempt to throttle up and the engine surges up and down, while sounding like it is bogged down, but the boat goes no faster than a very low idle speed. I have a video of it here: + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZmPxgEUPME. + + +Any insight into this issue would be greatly appreciated. I'm inclined to say its an ignition coil issue, but am honestly not sure. I do know it is not a spun prop, because I replaced the prop for a similar issue last year and I pulled it off to check and the prop is fine. Thanks for the help!!","We usually start with a compression test,spark test second,then move onto fuel diagnostics.fuel& ignition problems can sometimes mimac each other,best to eliminate each one at a time!!","We usually start with a compression test,spark test second,then move onto fuel diagnostics.fuel& ignition problems can sometimes mimac each other,best to eliminate each one at a time!!",Let it sit for 2 days and check the oil again. +"I'm having an intermittent issue with the engine on a 15hp 4 Stroke Outboard Engine. While there are times when I start it up and it runs great, more frequently, it does not throttle up at all. Instead it seems to attempt to throttle up and the engine surges up and down, while sounding like it is bogged down, but the boat goes no faster than a very low idle speed. I have a video of it here: + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZmPxgEUPME. + + +Any insight into this issue would be greatly appreciated. I'm inclined to say its an ignition coil issue, but am honestly not sure. I do know it is not a spun prop, because I replaced the prop for a similar issue last year and I pulled it off to check and the prop is fine. Thanks for the help!!","We usually start with a compression test,spark test second,then move onto fuel diagnostics. It's best to use this system because fuel & ignition issues can sometimes mimac each other. Better to eliminate one at a time.","We usually start with a compression test,spark test second,then move onto fuel diagnostics. It's best to use this system because fuel & ignition issues can sometimes mimac each other. Better to eliminate one at a time.","I'd advise posting this on the Mercury Forum on this site. Go to the top of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" and scroll down to the Mercury outboard forum." +"I'm having an intermittent issue with the engine on a 15hp 4 Stroke Outboard Engine. While there are times when I start it up and it runs great, more frequently, it does not throttle up at all. Instead it seems to attempt to throttle up and the engine surges up and down, while sounding like it is bogged down, but the boat goes no faster than a very low idle speed. I have a video of it here: + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZmPxgEUPME. + + +Any insight into this issue would be greatly appreciated. I'm inclined to say its an ignition coil issue, but am honestly not sure. I do know it is not a spun prop, because I replaced the prop for a similar issue last year and I pulled it off to check and the prop is fine. Thanks for the help!!","I usually first check for spark (no compression gauge here). With the engine running at idle, pull one plug wire at a time and then replace it. If you pull one wire and the engine starts to stall out or dies at least you know that cylinder is firing. Try that with both cylinders and see they are both firing. If you pull one and it makes no difference then you know that cylinger isn't firing. Pull the plug from the cylinder that isn't firing and move it to the one that was and see if that cylinder no longer fires. If the good cylinder doesn't fire with it in that cylinder, replace the plug. If it does fire, place the plug in the plug boot to the cylinder that wasn't firing, ground the bottom of the plug to the engine block somewhere and see if you can see a spark when you turn over the engine. No spark - could be a coil. Try swapping coils and see if the problem moves. IF the problem moves, repalce the coil. IF it doesn't move, check back here with your results for next steps.","I usually first check for spark (no compression gauge here). With the engine running at idle, pull one plug wire at a time and then replace it. If you pull one wire and the engine starts to stall out or dies at least you know that cylinder is firing. Try that with both cylinders and see they are both firing. If you pull one and it makes no difference then you know that cylinger isn't firing. Pull the plug from the cylinder that isn't firing and move it to the one that was and see if that cylinder no longer fires. If the good cylinder doesn't fire with it in that cylinder, replace the plug. If it does fire, place the plug in the plug boot to the cylinder that wasn't firing, ground the bottom of the plug to the engine block somewhere and see if you can see a spark when you turn over the engine. No spark - could be a coil. Try swapping coils and see if the problem moves. IF the problem moves, repalce the coil. IF it doesn't move, check back here with your results for next steps.","I was determined to find the problem. After looking at the parts list it looked like it was just a bolt that held the bracket into the side if the engine. Hours later after removed many parts and wire harness I got at it. I removed the bolt from the bracket. I found the bolt going through a Collar and a Wave washer .The collar was completely rusted and kept the bracket from turning on the bolt shaft. Also the washer was rusted. $12.00 for a Collar,bolt,washer .Waiting for parts I'm sure it will fix my problem. Corrosion ,it sucks." +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,"Fuel bulb squeezed and sucked in? That says everyting... You have a blockage in the fuel line before your fuel squeeze ball that is creating a vacume. I've said it many times here... Pull the fuel pick-up line that runs into the bottom of your main fuel tank and see if the manufacturer placed a little filter on the end of that fuel pick up. If they did.. CUT IT OFF AND THROW IT AWAY! That it the ""ghost filter"" that no one knows about or thinks of and never should have been placed there as other filters that are accessable along the way are going to do their job. I bet that is is your problem.","Fuel bulb squeezed and sucked in? That says everyting... You have a blockage in the fuel line before your fuel squeeze ball that is creating a vacume. I've said it many times here... Pull the fuel pick-up line that runs into the bottom of your main fuel tank and see if the manufacturer placed a little filter on the end of that fuel pick up. If they did.. CUT IT OFF AND THROW IT AWAY! That it the ""ghost filter"" that no one knows about or thinks of and never should have been placed there as other filters that are accessable along the way are going to do their job. I bet that is is your problem.","I have a 2002 Yamaha 225hp and it just started cutting out at 4300 rpm. My mechanic has already replaced the removed, cleaned, and replaced the injectors with no success. Has the problem returned to your engine since you replaced the ECU?" +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,Thanks will give it go. Secondary socked on tight so maybe it's a big vacuum boat started right up but primer ball still squeezed in and doesn't want to fill with fuel so hoping clearing a restricted fuel line is it. Thanks will let you know how I make out,Thanks will give it go. Secondary socked on tight so maybe it's a big vacuum boat started right up but primer ball still squeezed in and doesn't want to fill with fuel so hoping clearing a restricted fuel line is it. Thanks will let you know how I make out,maybe the boat has a Main Battery switch(es) that isn't in the ON position??? +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,Also check fuel tank vent for obstructions!,Also check fuel tank vent for obstructions!,"No, bulb is soft after starving of fuel." +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,Yeah first thing I did. I opened up fuel cap. Actually put 24 gallons back in hopefully that would do it but after ten minutes went back to same .... Bled vs tank and a small amount of fuel came out I was thinking maybe float suck ?? Tapped a few times than primer bulb would send thru but not as strong as I would think. All fuel that came out was nice and clean. Ran it but same as before. Primer bulb ( new Yamaha ) not getting fully hard gonna change on board filter again and than clean/check fuel pick up as suggested,Yeah first thing I did. I opened up fuel cap. Actually put 24 gallons back in hopefully that would do it but after ten minutes went back to same .... Bled vs tank and a small amount of fuel came out I was thinking maybe float suck ?? Tapped a few times than primer bulb would send thru but not as strong as I would think. All fuel that came out was nice and clean. Ran it but same as before. Primer bulb ( new Yamaha ) not getting fully hard gonna change on board filter again and than clean/check fuel pick up as suggested,Leave the gauges on while you sea trial. +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,"The problem with the ""ghost filter"" on the fuel pick-up line in the bottom of the tank is you can't suck ALL the fuel out of the tank and even if you could debris that could have been in there since manufacture is going to sit on the bottom. You suck all the fuel out, debris is now sitting on the bottom of the tank. You add new fuel, it gets stirred up again. You start running and the fuel starts being sucked throught that little filter... it clogs up. You shut down, suction falls off, fuel sloshed around in the tank and some of the crap that was clogging the filter falls off... you start running again and after a while the filter clogs up again. No one can figure out what is wrong and it's that $2 ghost filter that never ever should have been placed on the end of that fuel pick-up line. I will be shocked if you don't have one there and when you pull it you don't find it partially clogged. Again... CUT IT OFF AND THROW IT AWAY. DO NOT TRY TO CLEAN IT OR REPLACE IT or you'll have the same problem show up over and over again. Let the large, main in-line filters filter out that debris in the fuel tank as they are much larger and can filter far more debris than one of those little fuel line pick-up filters. + + The bottom line is too many filters are a BAD thing. I've seen some boats that have a pick-up line filter, an inline fuel/water seperator filter, a filter/water seperator filter under the cowling, then another inline filter to the VST tank (which has yet another filter on the botttom of the HP fuel pump which feeds the fuel injectors WHICH HAVE FILTERS IN THEM AS WELL! That's how many filters that can clog and cause problems? WAY TOO MANY! Great for those who sell filters, bad for us who are trying to figure out where the friggin' blockage is!","The problem with the ""ghost filter"" on the fuel pick-up line in the bottom of the tank is you can't suck ALL the fuel out of the tank and even if you could debris that could have been in there since manufacture is going to sit on the bottom. You suck all the fuel out, debris is now sitting on the bottom of the tank. You add new fuel, it gets stirred up again. You start running and the fuel starts being sucked throught that little filter... it clogs up. You shut down, suction falls off, fuel sloshed around in the tank and some of the crap that was clogging the filter falls off... you start running again and after a while the filter clogs up again. No one can figure out what is wrong and it's that $2 ghost filter that never ever should have been placed on the end of that fuel pick-up line. I will be shocked if you don't have one there and when you pull it you don't find it partially clogged. Again... CUT IT OFF AND THROW IT AWAY. DO NOT TRY TO CLEAN IT OR REPLACE IT or you'll have the same problem show up over and over again. Let the large, main in-line filters filter out that debris in the fuel tank as they are much larger and can filter far more debris than one of those little fuel line pick-up filters. + + The bottom line is too many filters are a BAD thing. I've seen some boats that have a pick-up line filter, an inline fuel/water seperator filter, a filter/water seperator filter under the cowling, then another inline filter to the VST tank (which has yet another filter on the botttom of the HP fuel pump which feeds the fuel injectors WHICH HAVE FILTERS IN THEM AS WELL! That's how many filters that can clog and cause problems? WAY TOO MANY! Great for those who sell filters, bad for us who are trying to figure out where the friggin' blockage is!","FIXED...!!! Update, i am an idiot. When I changed the fuel pump, I tightened the bolts too tight and pushed out the inner gasket and split it. I did not notice with the wires and such in front of it. Didn’t notice until I took it back off to put old one back on. Rebuilt pump and all is well now. The fouling plug issue was adjustments and carb rebuild. Thanks for all help." +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,Ok so started at filter and worked back to tank. Cleaned anti siphon which had some crud in it flushed it than blew out pick up was clean ( did not take it out ) but no resistance blew out line to filter that was clear reconnected everything and fuel ball still sucked in took of hose from filter to fuel bulb and saw it was plugged with the plastic Liner of the fuel line collapsed I also saw a similar clog on motor side of bulb running a little better but still stalling out. Fuel in filter on this time took out anti siphon and replaced it with a straight up fitting flo better but fuel bulb ( new) still not getting hard as I would expect,Ok so started at filter and worked back to tank. Cleaned anti siphon which had some crud in it flushed it than blew out pick up was clean ( did not take it out ) but no resistance blew out line to filter that was clear reconnected everything and fuel ball still sucked in took of hose from filter to fuel bulb and saw it was plugged with the plastic Liner of the fuel line collapsed I also saw a similar clog on motor side of bulb running a little better but still stalling out. Fuel in filter on this time took out anti siphon and replaced it with a straight up fitting flo better but fuel bulb ( new) still not getting hard as I would expect,"Yes, what in the heck is an ""oil mixer"". + +A 2002 150 Yamaha should have come with an automatic oil transfer and injection system. You add oil to a remote tank and the system does all the work for you from there. + +If the kill switch has been activated then the warning buzzer will sound if the key is turned to the start position. The motor will crank, but not start, and the buzzer will sound." +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,I didn't take pick up out I guess next step was also going to change fuel line to motor the inner lining seems to have separated from fuel line,I didn't take pick up out I guess next step was also going to change fuel line to motor the inner lining seems to have separated from fuel line,"boscoe said: + + + + The base setting is 5/8ths turn outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 1/4 turn. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you!" +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,I had similar problem on my boat years ago. The fuel vent for the onboard tank at the gunnel was pushed in and blocked. Pulled out and ran fine. Also DO NOT USE 93 octane in 2 stroke motors it will cause excess carbon build up.,I had similar problem on my boat years ago. The fuel vent for the onboard tank at the gunnel was pushed in and blocked. Pulled out and ran fine. Also DO NOT USE 93 octane in 2 stroke motors it will cause excess carbon build up.,"I realize that this thread is not current.... but what the heck, this may be useful. + + + +bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,... In my experience with 'em,... +You can't plumb enough Amps to the boat to make it work Right... + +Click to expand... + + I just spoke with a man last week who owns a water heater repair/replacement business. This is residential, but the On-Demand concept is apparently the same industry wide. +He confirmed what Bill just said regarding the wattage required. +Natural Gas (or Propane for that matter) is much more efficient, but Propane On-Demand is likely not legal for Marine use, unless the unit was to be mounted externally and out in the open. +Don't know for sure.... better check on this! + +FYI: My boat is equipped with a 12 gallon Electric Strip/Engine coolant Water Heater. +Both engines are equipped with closed cooling systems, Port Engine provides coolant to the WH's internal heat exchanger coil. +Engine temps are approx 160*/170*. +I can leave the dock, and in approximately 45 minutes, I will have 12 gallons of fairly hot water. +When running to a destination and staying on the hook, we will have plenty of hot water the following morning. +To heat water further, my choices are to fire up the Port Engine, or to fire up the Generator. + +One nice feature w/ a conventional WH, is that throughout the day we'll have warm to hot water available, and without the need to fire up any engine! + +You mentioned ""a little less freezing""..... and I'm not quite sure what you meant by that! +If this were to mean that an On-Demand system may be easier to winterize, I suppose that it may be a tad bit easier. +However, I believe that either will be relatively simple to winterize once you get a system down. + +My WH itself is completely drained of all potable water. +The engine coolant side requires nothing done! +The cold supply is then by-passed via a valving system (turn 3 valve handles and I'm done) and is joined with the Hot out supply creating a loop. The RV type anti-freeze can then be pumped through the entire system (both Hot/Cold plumbing) and out each Hot/Cold fixture. +(you can purchase a by-pass kit, or make up your own..... I made up my own) + +It takes me about 15 minutes to winterize my O/B water system. + +Just a suggestion for you!" +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,"leadhead715 said: + + + + I had similar problem on my boat years ago. The fuel vent for the onboard tank at the gunnel was pushed in and blocked. Pulled out and ran fine. Also DO NOT USE 93 octane in 2 stroke motors it will cause excess carbon build up. + +Click to expand... + + +Very good point leadhead.. I missed that! 93 Octane burns slower than standard Octane. Similar to cars - if your engine isn't tuned for the burning properties of high octane it is not only a waste of $ but can actually result in poorer performance. I don't think that is his problem though based on what he posted. He has a fuel restriction somewhere based on the collapsed fuel bulb.","leadhead715 said: + + + + I had similar problem on my boat years ago. The fuel vent for the onboard tank at the gunnel was pushed in and blocked. Pulled out and ran fine. Also DO NOT USE 93 octane in 2 stroke motors it will cause excess carbon build up. + +Click to expand... + + +Very good point leadhead.. I missed that! 93 Octane burns slower than standard Octane. Similar to cars - if your engine isn't tuned for the burning properties of high octane it is not only a waste of $ but can actually result in poorer performance. I don't think that is his problem though based on what he posted. He has a fuel restriction somewhere based on the collapsed fuel bulb.","Moonshiner said: + + + + I think so. As the motor turns over i smell gas like its flooded. + +Click to expand... + + +Does the squeeze ball get hard and does it stay hard when you apply constant pressure to it?" +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,Pulled the section of fuel hose between filter and priming bulb the lining totally collapsed it looked like someone stuffed it with Saran Wrap changed that line still was crappy than did primary filter on motor ( less than 2 hours on it and took apart vst ( again only two hours ) poured all fuel into water bolted so I could see. Sediment ect. Secondary filter loaded with a white waxey type debris when I drained vst tank saw some of same and changed primary it was caked on pleats I did use Yamaha ring free so not sure if it reacted to fuel but in any case changed fuel line vac gushed showing no rectification. Ran it out on bay last night so far so good thanks for all suggestions I found it very helpful it was definetly a fuel restriction!!,Pulled the section of fuel hose between filter and priming bulb the lining totally collapsed it looked like someone stuffed it with Saran Wrap changed that line still was crappy than did primary filter on motor ( less than 2 hours on it and took apart vst ( again only two hours ) poured all fuel into water bolted so I could see. Sediment ect. Secondary filter loaded with a white waxey type debris when I drained vst tank saw some of same and changed primary it was caked on pleats I did use Yamaha ring free so not sure if it reacted to fuel but in any case changed fuel line vac gushed showing no rectification. Ran it out on bay last night so far so good thanks for all suggestions I found it very helpful it was definetly a fuel restriction!!,"That’s my dilemma. In following the lines I don’t see any apparent leaks. I turn the key on to pressurize the system. I have the air box off, the motor tilted up, primed the fuel, let it sit for a couple hours, nothing! It’s like the thing knows when I am looking. I am going to pull the carbs today for a cleaning and gaskets. Maybe with them out of the way I will find something. + I very much appreciate the diagram and reply. The St. Clair river is still flowing here in Michigan. I will try to run it in the launch after I get the carbs done. I let you know what I find. +Thanks again!" +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,"Js sea ox, All this debris has to be coming from somewhere,clean your tank thoroughly,otherwise instant replay!!","Js sea ox, All this debris has to be coming from somewhere,clean your tank thoroughly,otherwise instant replay!!","geo010704 said: + + + + I am changing my front two seats in my half cab due to excessive wear at the base. I seen a guy on youtube stick a ply wood base to the deck and then screw the seat mount onto this. + +My question is what did he use to stick it on with? it would have to be a strong bond & be able to stick wood to fiber glass. + +Any help appreciated. + +George + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... More Fiberglass would be my guess...." +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,Ok maybe stupid question but what is best way to clean tank?? I can get at thru sender opening,Ok maybe stupid question but what is best way to clean tank?? I can get at thru sender opening,"In addition to checking and tightening everything to eliminate any possibility of an air leak in the fuel line to the engine, check the oil level in the port engine... Is it ""making oil"" by any chance? Is the oil level above the top range on the dip-stick? If you're ""making oil"" you could have a mechanical fuel pump diaphram going bad. Simple to check and see if the diaphram is torn, has hole, etc and fix as you can purchase just the diaphram (no need for an entire new fuel pump). Yamaha Service Mafia loves to sell new fuel pumps instead simply replacing the diaphram. + +I had my septic system's air pump fail and wouldn't you know it Septic Service Mafia Man wanted to replace the entire pump for $350. I found online the ""rebuild kit"" with new diaphrams for my pump for $99! Turns out there is a little shear screw in there designed to break when a diaphram fails and shut down the pump. New diaphrams and new shear screw $99 total and good for another 5 years." +I just changed all pumps plus vst and pump. Had two good trips now doing the same as before even worse stalls ect had to start first thing I did was change onboard 10 mic filter which was new and had crap in it and I saw that fuel ball was squeezed in as if the filter wasn't giving it enough fuel changed filter same problem. Back at dock opened screw at vst tank fuel clean but not a lot came out tapped tank it got a little better ran it again and same thing engine stalled Thoughts?? Frustrated here. Emptied rank when I changed. Pumps with gas station 93 fuel three weeks old,"saran wrap looking stuff is what is left of the inner liner of your fuel line. did u change all lines on motor too, they only last 8-10 yrs. Waxey debris is what is left of the adhesive that bonds the inner and outer line together after the ethanol gets done eating it. you did not say how old fuel tank is. 2000 and newer should be good. crud from the tank should be picked up by water separator filter between tank and motor. Hope this helps.","saran wrap looking stuff is what is left of the inner liner of your fuel line. did u change all lines on motor too, they only last 8-10 yrs. Waxey debris is what is left of the adhesive that bonds the inner and outer line together after the ethanol gets done eating it. you did not say how old fuel tank is. 2000 and newer should be good. crud from the tank should be picked up by water separator filter between tank and motor. Hope this helps.","Have you find the manual yet? + +If not, i will send to you" +"I have a yamaha f150txr and the main relay was replaced. The main fuse is 50 amps and the replaced relay is 35 amps! The motor does not run as fast, as it used to. The correct relay should be rated at 50 amps for complete performance?","I don't think so,u have other issues.","I don't think so,u have other issues.","If you are taking about the supports at the leading or trailing end of the springs, they are usually shackles (though there are a couple different arrangements. they aren't too hard to find and rarely are they OEM specific. + +If you tried to post a picture, it didn't work. + +As far as cause, if you are talking about the bolt, it could have been a jolt, corrosion, abuse, or an inferior part to begin with....replacement with high quality parts, installed properly, will usually be the best course of action..." +"I have a 2004 Yamaha T50TLRC that I bought used last year. This spring I rebuilt the four carbs. The motor starts and idles perfectly. It runs well at low, medium and high speeds. The only problem is accelerating from low (apx. 1500 rpm) speed where it stalls out unless I accelerate slowly. Accelerating from about 3000 is no problem. I then synchronized the carbs., and tried adjusting the dashpot (acceleration pump) but the problem still exists. + +The only thing I can think of is that I may have missed some obstruction in the carb. air adjustment bypass holes when cleaning these carbs. - but there are none or they seem inaccessible! Both the service manual and the parts diagrams show an air adjustment screw (""pilot screw"") yet there are only brass plugs where these screws are supposed to be located - just above the throttle butterfly shafts. So, the mysteries are: why no adjustments for air mixture and why plugged off? Why are there no service bulletins or diagrams showing these modifications and explanations? Can these plugs be removed without damaging the carbs? Is this even necessary? + +I tried, but cannot seem to upload a picture of this cabr. set-up. + +Besides this mystery, any other suggestions on this stalling problem?",Plugs can be drilled out carefully and removed with a small easyout. PLugs have been used for years so u would have to bring outboard to dealer for repairs $$$.,Plugs can be drilled out carefully and removed with a small easyout. PLugs have been used for years so u would have to bring outboard to dealer for repairs $$$., +"hello +could anybody give me an opinion on whether this yam 100hp 4 stroke is adequate for the boat shown in link. +i am no rev head and not fussed about how fast it goes, but am curious to get some feedback as i feel this is the reason boat is being sold. + +http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-f...AD-4181149/1997-Savage-55SF-DEFENDER-RUNABOUT","If they were skiing with it,I would think so. There should be a plate on transom or console stating max. HP#of passengers ETC.","If they were skiing with it,I would think so. There should be a plate on transom or console stating max. HP#of passengers ETC.","Plugging the end of the speedo cable isn't going to hurt. It is design to transfer air pressure to the sensor, not water. With regards to other maintenance, is it a four stroke or a two stroke? If it is a four stroke then replace the sump oil and oil filter periodically. Either way you should also replace the gearbox oil (and fibre washers) to both keep it fresh and check for water ingress through the oil seals. Also keep an eye on the condition of the spark plugs. Put grease in all the grease nipples and on all the linkages under the cowling. Maybe do an annual compression test so see what condition the cylinders are in. Don't forget that a lot of work during a service is really inspection. Make sure to put your eye over everything. + +Stuart" +"hello +could anybody give me an opinion on whether this yam 100hp 4 stroke is adequate for the boat shown in link. +i am no rev head and not fussed about how fast it goes, but am curious to get some feedback as i feel this is the reason boat is being sold. + +http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-f...AD-4181149/1997-Savage-55SF-DEFENDER-RUNABOUT","johnnygjr said: + + + + If they were skiing with it,I would think so. There should be a plate on transom or console stating max. HP#of passengers ETC. + +Click to expand... + + +maybe you misunderstand me, i am keen to know if you think that the 100hp motor is not too small? +and if it is, what are the adverse affects of this?","johnnygjr said: + + + + If they were skiing with it,I would think so. There should be a plate on transom or console stating max. HP#of passengers ETC. + +Click to expand... + + +maybe you misunderstand me, i am keen to know if you think that the 100hp motor is not too small? +and if it is, what are the adverse affects of this?","?---6 months and all those parts and effort for what appears was a simple fix ??-----Good on ya to follow the "" no money "" spent path of trouble shooting." +"hello +could anybody give me an opinion on whether this yam 100hp 4 stroke is adequate for the boat shown in link. +i am no rev head and not fussed about how fast it goes, but am curious to get some feedback as i feel this is the reason boat is being sold. + +http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-f...AD-4181149/1997-Savage-55SF-DEFENDER-RUNABOUT","Before you buy ANY boat you must insist on taking it for an in-water test to see for yourself if everything is workign, you're pleased with the performance and then ABSOLUTELY perform a compression check on the engine. + +In my opinion, 100 HP is not at all too small for that boat. I am running a Yamaha F115 on an 18.5' Edgewater dual console fiberglass boat. My boat weighs 1,750lbs dry without any fuel, dual batteries, water, gear etc. (54 Gal fuel tank to boot). Fully loaded with 2 people I'm probably at 2,250 lbs. It was rated for 150 HP max. I opted for 115 HP for me is PLENTY - top speed is about 38MPH at WOT and finding water than I even want to open it up to WOT is hard to find. The boat you are looking at is aluminum and weighs about 500 lbs less than mine dry! HP that you can't use anywhere other than on a glass-smooth interior lake or river is worthless in my opinion. I'd bet with 100Hp on that boat you can cruise at about 24-25 MPH turning 4200-4400 rpm. Top speed at WOT would be in the high 30's at 5800-6000.","Before you buy ANY boat you must insist on taking it for an in-water test to see for yourself if everything is workign, you're pleased with the performance and then ABSOLUTELY perform a compression check on the engine. + +In my opinion, 100 HP is not at all too small for that boat. I am running a Yamaha F115 on an 18.5' Edgewater dual console fiberglass boat. My boat weighs 1,750lbs dry without any fuel, dual batteries, water, gear etc. (54 Gal fuel tank to boot). Fully loaded with 2 people I'm probably at 2,250 lbs. It was rated for 150 HP max. I opted for 115 HP for me is PLENTY - top speed is about 38MPH at WOT and finding water than I even want to open it up to WOT is hard to find. The boat you are looking at is aluminum and weighs about 500 lbs less than mine dry! HP that you can't use anywhere other than on a glass-smooth interior lake or river is worthless in my opinion. I'd bet with 100Hp on that boat you can cruise at about 24-25 MPH turning 4200-4400 rpm. Top speed at WOT would be in the high 30's at 5800-6000.","Helisol said: + + + + I have an 84 34' Sedan Flybridge and the (felt?) seals that the windows slide in are shot. +One area is so bad it is starting to allow rain into the salon. +I'm not even sure how to remove the windows. +Any help would be appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +I have a 1985 Sea Ray 268 Weekender (bought just over a year ago and I knew nothing of boats like this). Anyway I too have this issue with the felt seals. My windows were made by Taylor Made and I contacted them. Good News...they have the seal! This is the sample that they sent me and it's the right one! Is this what you are looking for? If so, the material is NOT cheap at $5.10/ft from Taylor Made. I'm still looking for another supplier. Taylor Made sent me the actual print from the original manufacturer, but they have said that they don't make this item. My guess is they sold the tool to another vendor. BTW: My job is to estimate parts...this should be about $0.60/ft! Quite the markup. + +Any help in finding another source would be great. I'm stressed at spending $250 on this stuff." +"hello +could anybody give me an opinion on whether this yam 100hp 4 stroke is adequate for the boat shown in link. +i am no rev head and not fussed about how fast it goes, but am curious to get some feedback as i feel this is the reason boat is being sold. + +http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-f...AD-4181149/1997-Savage-55SF-DEFENDER-RUNABOUT","deepsea21 said: + + + + Before you buy ANY boat you must insist on taking it for an in-water test to see for yourself if everything is workign, you're pleased with the performance and then ABSOLUTELY perform a compression check on the engine. + +In my opinion, 100 HP is not at all too small for that boat. I am running a Yamaha F115 on an 18.5' Edgewater dual console fiberglass boat. My boat weighs 1,750lbs dry without any fuel, dual batteries, water, gear etc. (54 Gal fuel tank to boot). Fully loaded with 2 people I'm probably at 2,250 lbs. It was rated for 150 HP max. I opted for 115 HP for me is PLENTY - top speed is about 38MPH at WOT and finding water than I even want to open it up to WOT is hard to find. The boat you are looking at is aluminum and weighs about 500 lbs less than mine dry! HP that you can't use anywhere other than on a glass-smooth interior lake or river is worthless in my opinion. I'd bet with 100Hp on that boat you can cruise at about 24-25 MPH turning 4200-4400 rpm. Top speed at WOT would be in the high 30's at 5800-6000. + +Click to expand... + + + +thanks for response mate, very helpful, i am intending to get a mechanic to go over the boat and motor, and then a water test. +just one point i wanted to make is that the boat in link is not aluminium, it is a fibreglass hull. +cheers","deepsea21 said: + + + + Before you buy ANY boat you must insist on taking it for an in-water test to see for yourself if everything is workign, you're pleased with the performance and then ABSOLUTELY perform a compression check on the engine. + +In my opinion, 100 HP is not at all too small for that boat. I am running a Yamaha F115 on an 18.5' Edgewater dual console fiberglass boat. My boat weighs 1,750lbs dry without any fuel, dual batteries, water, gear etc. (54 Gal fuel tank to boot). Fully loaded with 2 people I'm probably at 2,250 lbs. It was rated for 150 HP max. I opted for 115 HP for me is PLENTY - top speed is about 38MPH at WOT and finding water than I even want to open it up to WOT is hard to find. The boat you are looking at is aluminum and weighs about 500 lbs less than mine dry! HP that you can't use anywhere other than on a glass-smooth interior lake or river is worthless in my opinion. I'd bet with 100Hp on that boat you can cruise at about 24-25 MPH turning 4200-4400 rpm. Top speed at WOT would be in the high 30's at 5800-6000. + +Click to expand... + + + +thanks for response mate, very helpful, i am intending to get a mechanic to go over the boat and motor, and then a water test. +just one point i wanted to make is that the boat in link is not aluminium, it is a fibreglass hull. +cheers",Maybe you have a bad plug? bad wire? +"hello +could anybody give me an opinion on whether this yam 100hp 4 stroke is adequate for the boat shown in link. +i am no rev head and not fussed about how fast it goes, but am curious to get some feedback as i feel this is the reason boat is being sold. + +http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-f...AD-4181149/1997-Savage-55SF-DEFENDER-RUNABOUT","rusty34 said: + + + + thanks for response mate, very helpful, i am intending to get a mechanic to go over the boat and motor, and then a water test. +just one point i wanted to make is that the boat in link is not aluminium, it is a fibreglass hull. +cheers + +Click to expand... + + +Yes.. I was just looking some more at the boat you are looking at and the manuf website and I couldn't figure out how they got those lifting strakes in on the hull of the boat you are looking at if it was an aluminum hull! As it is fiberglass, it probably weighs close to mine and probably a bit less than mine as Edgewaters are known to be on the heavy side compared to many back then (mine is a 2002). I would now guess with 100HP on that boat being fiberglass you'll cruise at about 24 MPH turning 4400 RPM (still within the max economy range) and top out around 34 MPH at 5800-6000. Again... still very respectable speeds and the sweet spot for 4-strokes and fuel efficiency is that 4200-4400 RPM range which you'll still be in. I say the boat is not at all underpowered if you aren't a speed freak. Give it a test drive and do let us know how it turns out. Cheers... Love you Aussies! These days you seem to be the most sane people on the planet! Except maybe you... What time is it there right now???? ; )","rusty34 said: + + + + thanks for response mate, very helpful, i am intending to get a mechanic to go over the boat and motor, and then a water test. +just one point i wanted to make is that the boat in link is not aluminium, it is a fibreglass hull. +cheers + +Click to expand... + + +Yes.. I was just looking some more at the boat you are looking at and the manuf website and I couldn't figure out how they got those lifting strakes in on the hull of the boat you are looking at if it was an aluminum hull! As it is fiberglass, it probably weighs close to mine and probably a bit less than mine as Edgewaters are known to be on the heavy side compared to many back then (mine is a 2002). I would now guess with 100HP on that boat being fiberglass you'll cruise at about 24 MPH turning 4400 RPM (still within the max economy range) and top out around 34 MPH at 5800-6000. Again... still very respectable speeds and the sweet spot for 4-strokes and fuel efficiency is that 4200-4400 RPM range which you'll still be in. I say the boat is not at all underpowered if you aren't a speed freak. Give it a test drive and do let us know how it turns out. Cheers... Love you Aussies! These days you seem to be the most sane people on the planet! Except maybe you... What time is it there right now???? ; )",While you are re-wiring do yourself a favor and run a ground wire to each light and on back to the hitch to the ground wire coming from your tow vehicle. Using the trailer frame as a ground will cause you headaches in the future. +"hello +could anybody give me an opinion on whether this yam 100hp 4 stroke is adequate for the boat shown in link. +i am no rev head and not fussed about how fast it goes, but am curious to get some feedback as i feel this is the reason boat is being sold. + +http://www.boatsales.com.au/boats-f...AD-4181149/1997-Savage-55SF-DEFENDER-RUNABOUT","deepsea21 said: + + + + Yes.. I was just looking some more at the boat you are looking at and the manuf website and I couldn't figure out how they got those lifting strakes in on the hull of the boat you are looking at if it was an aluminum hull! As it is fiberglass, it probably weighs close to mine and probably a bit less than mine as Edgewaters are known to be on the heavy side compared to many back then (mine is a 2002). I would now guess with 100HP on that boat being fiberglass you'll cruise at about 24 MPH turning 4400 RPM (still within the max economy range) and top out around 34 MPH at 5800-6000. Again... still very respectable speeds and the sweet spot for 4-strokes and fuel efficiency is that 4200-4400 RPM range which you'll still be in. I say the boat is not at all underpowered if you aren't a speed freak. Give it a test drive and do let us know how it turns out. Cheers... Love you Aussies! These days you seem to be the most sane people on the planet! Except maybe you... What time is it there right now???? ; ) + +Click to expand... + + + +ha thanks mate, the insanity is certainly reaching us! +its morning on friday here, 8.16am, im at work, still winter here so im looking at getting a new boat soon before the spring and the snapper start to come on. +i will definitely get this one checked out, i dont care about have a super fast boat, the guy selling it is younger and i think he does care. +i will let you know how it goes! +cheers +Rusty","deepsea21 said: + + + + Yes.. I was just looking some more at the boat you are looking at and the manuf website and I couldn't figure out how they got those lifting strakes in on the hull of the boat you are looking at if it was an aluminum hull! As it is fiberglass, it probably weighs close to mine and probably a bit less than mine as Edgewaters are known to be on the heavy side compared to many back then (mine is a 2002). I would now guess with 100HP on that boat being fiberglass you'll cruise at about 24 MPH turning 4400 RPM (still within the max economy range) and top out around 34 MPH at 5800-6000. Again... still very respectable speeds and the sweet spot for 4-strokes and fuel efficiency is that 4200-4400 RPM range which you'll still be in. I say the boat is not at all underpowered if you aren't a speed freak. Give it a test drive and do let us know how it turns out. Cheers... Love you Aussies! These days you seem to be the most sane people on the planet! Except maybe you... What time is it there right now???? ; ) + +Click to expand... + + + +ha thanks mate, the insanity is certainly reaching us! +its morning on friday here, 8.16am, im at work, still winter here so im looking at getting a new boat soon before the spring and the snapper start to come on. +i will definitely get this one checked out, i dont care about have a super fast boat, the guy selling it is younger and i think he does care. +i will let you know how it goes! +cheers +Rusty","I ran the thing dry when last used: I turned fuel cock off, and ran it until it stopped. Though I am prepared to accept that this may not in fact be fully empty - just not enough fuel to run. The fuel leakage is from the underside of the black plastic face plate/air intake assembly. It looks a bit of a pig to take off! + +Best Regds + +Andrew" +"I purchased a used 2010 G3 V167c with a 50hp Yamaha 4-stroke in the spring. It had around 100 hours on it when I bought it. As far as I know, it was regularly serviced at the dealer where I purchased it from, and it was running very well for the first month I used it (which was June). It accelerated well, planed very quickly and had a top speed of 33-34 mph. + +Then about 2-3 weeks ago, I noticed that it didn't accelerate as well, took a little longer to plane, and now has a top speed of about 29-30 mph. It never stalls and I never have trouble starting it or restarting it. The only noticeable things are the lack of acceleration and speed. + +I treat the gas I put in with Sea Foam (about 3 oz per 5 gallons), which I stopped doing when I first noticed the problem. I thought the Sea Foam treatment might have been causing a problem, but after reading more, I suspect it's simply water in my fuel. I haven't confirmed that yet, but I will this weekend (by pumping out a small amount of fuel into a clear container to examine it). + +So I'm thinking that I should install a water/fuel separator, but I'm wondering if that will actually solve the problem. What do you think? If I was having trouble starting the engine or if it was stalling, I'd certainly take it to a mechanic first. But considering my problem appears to be minor at this point, would installing the separator possibly solve the problem (assuming it's water in the fuel)? Just looking for some opinions on this. Thanks.","It certainly would not hurt to install the system in your boat,prevent future problems, Pull plugs and inspect. Is bottom of boat grass free, barnacles free?extra weight on board? Rain water in compartments,full fuel tank? Is engine reaching WOT,top rpms??","It certainly would not hurt to install the system in your boat,prevent future problems, Pull plugs and inspect. Is bottom of boat grass free, barnacles free?extra weight on board? Rain water in compartments,full fuel tank? Is engine reaching WOT,top rpms??","Captain Ed, give this a try. + +Once you find an image that looks like what you're after, click on it. +When it loads, the web page that hosts the image will be in the background. +X out the image, and the web page should open up. + +Or invoke ""Web"" just to the left of ""Images"" at the upper left hand corner of any Google page. +You'll also see ""Videos"" to the right of ""Images""..... give that a try also. + +(just note that anyone can host a video..... so it doesn't necessarily mean that it will be accurate information) + + +No need to think that the task will be complicated. You'll most likely be checking for voltage and circuit continuity only." +"I purchased a used 2010 G3 V167c with a 50hp Yamaha 4-stroke in the spring. It had around 100 hours on it when I bought it. As far as I know, it was regularly serviced at the dealer where I purchased it from, and it was running very well for the first month I used it (which was June). It accelerated well, planed very quickly and had a top speed of 33-34 mph. + +Then about 2-3 weeks ago, I noticed that it didn't accelerate as well, took a little longer to plane, and now has a top speed of about 29-30 mph. It never stalls and I never have trouble starting it or restarting it. The only noticeable things are the lack of acceleration and speed. + +I treat the gas I put in with Sea Foam (about 3 oz per 5 gallons), which I stopped doing when I first noticed the problem. I thought the Sea Foam treatment might have been causing a problem, but after reading more, I suspect it's simply water in my fuel. I haven't confirmed that yet, but I will this weekend (by pumping out a small amount of fuel into a clear container to examine it). + +So I'm thinking that I should install a water/fuel separator, but I'm wondering if that will actually solve the problem. What do you think? If I was having trouble starting the engine or if it was stalling, I'd certainly take it to a mechanic first. But considering my problem appears to be minor at this point, would installing the separator possibly solve the problem (assuming it's water in the fuel)? Just looking for some opinions on this. Thanks.","As Johnny said - A separate fuel water separator can'thurt (I have one on my boat) but doesn't that engine also have a fuel waterseparator under the cowling that holds the small fuel filter? There should be ared ring in the bottom of that housing that will rise up if water has beentrapped in the bottom of that filter. If you're running common ethanol-blendedgasoline sold at 99% of gas stations that fuel can absorb ALOT of water beforephase separation occures. Remember - old red Sta-bil was basically ethanolbecause ethanol bonds with water molecules and can be burned away but evenbonded to ethanol it robs power when being burned. It's when all the ethanol hasbonded with all the water it can hold that you get phase separation and findwater/mess in the bottom of the fuel tank and fuel/water seperator. I've NEVER found water in my seperate fuel/water seperator or the filter under the engine cowling. + +Johnny also commented on the bottom - do you leave this boat in the water saltor fresh? Growth on the bottom can really slow a boat down and if it's saltwater, barnacles growing on the borrom and the prop can render a boat unable to reach plane inno time... In a month you'd think you were pulling 5 concrete blocks behind the boat. Check the fuel and filter (although I doubt you'll find signs of waterin the fuel). Check the prop for barnacles/dings/dents. If you're using aportable fuel tank and see no signs of water I'd dump the gas into your automobiletank and burn it there. Refill with fresh gas and preferably 100% gas (noethanol) if you have a station or marina nearby that sells it. You can keeprunning Sea Foam at 2x dose until it's gone and then switch to marine greenSta-bil and add it to the gas ALL THE TIME (not just for storage). The Sea Foamwill clean out a great deal but it does take time and running it at highercleaning dose in my opinion. + +Do let us know what you find as the learning never stops for us who like tosteer clear of the Yamaha service mafia.","As Johnny said - A separate fuel water separator can'thurt (I have one on my boat) but doesn't that engine also have a fuel waterseparator under the cowling that holds the small fuel filter? There should be ared ring in the bottom of that housing that will rise up if water has beentrapped in the bottom of that filter. If you're running common ethanol-blendedgasoline sold at 99% of gas stations that fuel can absorb ALOT of water beforephase separation occures. Remember - old red Sta-bil was basically ethanolbecause ethanol bonds with water molecules and can be burned away but evenbonded to ethanol it robs power when being burned. It's when all the ethanol hasbonded with all the water it can hold that you get phase separation and findwater/mess in the bottom of the fuel tank and fuel/water seperator. I've NEVER found water in my seperate fuel/water seperator or the filter under the engine cowling. + +Johnny also commented on the bottom - do you leave this boat in the water saltor fresh? Growth on the bottom can really slow a boat down and if it's saltwater, barnacles growing on the borrom and the prop can render a boat unable to reach plane inno time... In a month you'd think you were pulling 5 concrete blocks behind the boat. Check the fuel and filter (although I doubt you'll find signs of waterin the fuel). Check the prop for barnacles/dings/dents. If you're using aportable fuel tank and see no signs of water I'd dump the gas into your automobiletank and burn it there. Refill with fresh gas and preferably 100% gas (noethanol) if you have a station or marina nearby that sells it. You can keeprunning Sea Foam at 2x dose until it's gone and then switch to marine greenSta-bil and add it to the gas ALL THE TIME (not just for storage). The Sea Foamwill clean out a great deal but it does take time and running it at highercleaning dose in my opinion. + +Do let us know what you find as the learning never stops for us who like tosteer clear of the Yamaha service mafia.","I would install a voltage sensing relay and forget about the battery switch. It won't do what you are hoping it will. +Only put the starter wire on the start battery. All other power comes from battery 2...trim, bilge, accessories, etc. The reason for this of course is that all those other things become parasites on the battery that you want to be dead sure is constantly fully charged and able to start the engine. Put all the secondary draw on the second battery. Depending on your draw, the second battery could be one, two or more connected in parallel making one big array. +The voltage sensing relay will always charge the start battery. Once it is full, the extra voltage is channelled over to the storage batteries to charge them up. With this setup, you needn't manually switch batteries or worry if the starting battery has enough juice. +There are good books on all this, along with some really informative articles and videos on the web. + +I use a Yandina Combiner 200 (https://www.yandina.com/c200Info.htm) which can parallel both batteries in an emergency." +"I purchased a used 2010 G3 V167c with a 50hp Yamaha 4-stroke in the spring. It had around 100 hours on it when I bought it. As far as I know, it was regularly serviced at the dealer where I purchased it from, and it was running very well for the first month I used it (which was June). It accelerated well, planed very quickly and had a top speed of 33-34 mph. + +Then about 2-3 weeks ago, I noticed that it didn't accelerate as well, took a little longer to plane, and now has a top speed of about 29-30 mph. It never stalls and I never have trouble starting it or restarting it. The only noticeable things are the lack of acceleration and speed. + +I treat the gas I put in with Sea Foam (about 3 oz per 5 gallons), which I stopped doing when I first noticed the problem. I thought the Sea Foam treatment might have been causing a problem, but after reading more, I suspect it's simply water in my fuel. I haven't confirmed that yet, but I will this weekend (by pumping out a small amount of fuel into a clear container to examine it). + +So I'm thinking that I should install a water/fuel separator, but I'm wondering if that will actually solve the problem. What do you think? If I was having trouble starting the engine or if it was stalling, I'd certainly take it to a mechanic first. But considering my problem appears to be minor at this point, would installing the separator possibly solve the problem (assuming it's water in the fuel)? Just looking for some opinions on this. Thanks.","Thanks. It's docked on a clear/rocky freshwater lake, so I don't suspect it's growth on the bottom. I'll be checking the fuel filter for sure. I didn't know about the red ring. It's a permanent on-board tank, and I did increase the Sea Foam dosage the last time I fueled up. I think if I do find any water in the fuel, I'll just siphon it out of the tank with a pump, drain the carbs (if that's easy enough to do), then refill the tank completely with treated gas. If I don't find any water in the fuel, I'm going to check out the prop and replace the spark plugs to see what happens. I'll let you know what I find.","Thanks. It's docked on a clear/rocky freshwater lake, so I don't suspect it's growth on the bottom. I'll be checking the fuel filter for sure. I didn't know about the red ring. It's a permanent on-board tank, and I did increase the Sea Foam dosage the last time I fueled up. I think if I do find any water in the fuel, I'll just siphon it out of the tank with a pump, drain the carbs (if that's easy enough to do), then refill the tank completely with treated gas. If I don't find any water in the fuel, I'm going to check out the prop and replace the spark plugs to see what happens. I'll let you know what I find.","Haven't had a chance to get back on the water yet but I tried an experiment. I primed the fuel bulb several days ago, it filled the filter housing and the bulb was rock hard. Several days later without running the boat I checked it and found the bulb soft and air in the top half of the housing. I primed it again to where the housing was full of fuel and the bulb was hard, the disconnected the fuel quick connects at the motor to see if I could isolate the air leak if there was one to either the motor side od the tank side. Lone behold a day later there is no air in the housing and the bulb is still hard. So....are my quick connects faulty???" +"I purchased a used 2010 G3 V167c with a 50hp Yamaha 4-stroke in the spring. It had around 100 hours on it when I bought it. As far as I know, it was regularly serviced at the dealer where I purchased it from, and it was running very well for the first month I used it (which was June). It accelerated well, planed very quickly and had a top speed of 33-34 mph. + +Then about 2-3 weeks ago, I noticed that it didn't accelerate as well, took a little longer to plane, and now has a top speed of about 29-30 mph. It never stalls and I never have trouble starting it or restarting it. The only noticeable things are the lack of acceleration and speed. + +I treat the gas I put in with Sea Foam (about 3 oz per 5 gallons), which I stopped doing when I first noticed the problem. I thought the Sea Foam treatment might have been causing a problem, but after reading more, I suspect it's simply water in my fuel. I haven't confirmed that yet, but I will this weekend (by pumping out a small amount of fuel into a clear container to examine it). + +So I'm thinking that I should install a water/fuel separator, but I'm wondering if that will actually solve the problem. What do you think? If I was having trouble starting the engine or if it was stalling, I'd certainly take it to a mechanic first. But considering my problem appears to be minor at this point, would installing the separator possibly solve the problem (assuming it's water in the fuel)? Just looking for some opinions on this. Thanks.",What's is the top rpm u are getting now at full throttle?,What's is the top rpm u are getting now at full throttle?,"I've heard of too many people having them run too lean and causing a failure. We like to make modifications to these motors to get a little more out of them, so removing the oiler allows us to maintain a more consistent oil to fuel ratio." +"I purchased a used 2010 G3 V167c with a 50hp Yamaha 4-stroke in the spring. It had around 100 hours on it when I bought it. As far as I know, it was regularly serviced at the dealer where I purchased it from, and it was running very well for the first month I used it (which was June). It accelerated well, planed very quickly and had a top speed of 33-34 mph. + +Then about 2-3 weeks ago, I noticed that it didn't accelerate as well, took a little longer to plane, and now has a top speed of about 29-30 mph. It never stalls and I never have trouble starting it or restarting it. The only noticeable things are the lack of acceleration and speed. + +I treat the gas I put in with Sea Foam (about 3 oz per 5 gallons), which I stopped doing when I first noticed the problem. I thought the Sea Foam treatment might have been causing a problem, but after reading more, I suspect it's simply water in my fuel. I haven't confirmed that yet, but I will this weekend (by pumping out a small amount of fuel into a clear container to examine it). + +So I'm thinking that I should install a water/fuel separator, but I'm wondering if that will actually solve the problem. What do you think? If I was having trouble starting the engine or if it was stalling, I'd certainly take it to a mechanic first. But considering my problem appears to be minor at this point, would installing the separator possibly solve the problem (assuming it's water in the fuel)? Just looking for some opinions on this. Thanks.","I did a more thorough inspection last week, and I'm getting 5600-5800 rpm at full throttle, so that seems good. It doesn't hesitate at all. I also realized I do actually have a water/fuel separator installed (it was just hidden in the bilge behind a black casing). So this weekend I'm going to remove some weight from the boat and check underneath the hull for growth.","I did a more thorough inspection last week, and I'm getting 5600-5800 rpm at full throttle, so that seems good. It doesn't hesitate at all. I also realized I do actually have a water/fuel separator installed (it was just hidden in the bilge behind a black casing). So this weekend I'm going to remove some weight from the boat and check underneath the hull for growth.","That is a really good idea! I'd rather be able to individually turn on/off what I need at the time... + +Thank you!" +"I purchased a used 2010 G3 V167c with a 50hp Yamaha 4-stroke in the spring. It had around 100 hours on it when I bought it. As far as I know, it was regularly serviced at the dealer where I purchased it from, and it was running very well for the first month I used it (which was June). It accelerated well, planed very quickly and had a top speed of 33-34 mph. + +Then about 2-3 weeks ago, I noticed that it didn't accelerate as well, took a little longer to plane, and now has a top speed of about 29-30 mph. It never stalls and I never have trouble starting it or restarting it. The only noticeable things are the lack of acceleration and speed. + +I treat the gas I put in with Sea Foam (about 3 oz per 5 gallons), which I stopped doing when I first noticed the problem. I thought the Sea Foam treatment might have been causing a problem, but after reading more, I suspect it's simply water in my fuel. I haven't confirmed that yet, but I will this weekend (by pumping out a small amount of fuel into a clear container to examine it). + +So I'm thinking that I should install a water/fuel separator, but I'm wondering if that will actually solve the problem. What do you think? If I was having trouble starting the engine or if it was stalling, I'd certainly take it to a mechanic first. But considering my problem appears to be minor at this point, would installing the separator possibly solve the problem (assuming it's water in the fuel)? Just looking for some opinions on this. Thanks.","If you remove some weight, check the hull and prop and find nothing out of the ordinary are you SURE it's not performing the same as it was when you purchased it? Is it still reaching the same RPM as it did at WOT or has that dropped? Where are you getting your MPH speed readings from? A GPS will always give an accurate reading, a speedo that measures via a pick-up tube or one tied into the engine's sending unit that reads teh same way (via water pressure) can start to read slower and slower as growth/sand/silt, etc starts to plug up the pick-up tube or hole. I personally pay no attention to the speedo that is tied into my F115 as that stupid thing and the little port on the leading edge of the lower unit that reads the water pressure seem to always need cleaning to report a somewhat accurate reading... Lousy design = lousy readings.","If you remove some weight, check the hull and prop and find nothing out of the ordinary are you SURE it's not performing the same as it was when you purchased it? Is it still reaching the same RPM as it did at WOT or has that dropped? Where are you getting your MPH speed readings from? A GPS will always give an accurate reading, a speedo that measures via a pick-up tube or one tied into the engine's sending unit that reads teh same way (via water pressure) can start to read slower and slower as growth/sand/silt, etc starts to plug up the pick-up tube or hole. I personally pay no attention to the speedo that is tied into my F115 as that stupid thing and the little port on the leading edge of the lower unit that reads the water pressure seem to always need cleaning to report a somewhat accurate reading... Lousy design = lousy readings.","Yes - most likely a bad ground. You need to go on a rabbit hunt to find it. First look for any loose ground wires. First place to check are all ground wires coming off the battery(ies). While doing that, inspect and clean all ground connections. If that doesn't fix the problem, then test ground wire resistances with a digital voltmeter. Should be extremely low resistance on all wires and terminals." +"I purchased a used 2010 G3 V167c with a 50hp Yamaha 4-stroke in the spring. It had around 100 hours on it when I bought it. As far as I know, it was regularly serviced at the dealer where I purchased it from, and it was running very well for the first month I used it (which was June). It accelerated well, planed very quickly and had a top speed of 33-34 mph. + +Then about 2-3 weeks ago, I noticed that it didn't accelerate as well, took a little longer to plane, and now has a top speed of about 29-30 mph. It never stalls and I never have trouble starting it or restarting it. The only noticeable things are the lack of acceleration and speed. + +I treat the gas I put in with Sea Foam (about 3 oz per 5 gallons), which I stopped doing when I first noticed the problem. I thought the Sea Foam treatment might have been causing a problem, but after reading more, I suspect it's simply water in my fuel. I haven't confirmed that yet, but I will this weekend (by pumping out a small amount of fuel into a clear container to examine it). + +So I'm thinking that I should install a water/fuel separator, but I'm wondering if that will actually solve the problem. What do you think? If I was having trouble starting the engine or if it was stalling, I'd certainly take it to a mechanic first. But considering my problem appears to be minor at this point, would installing the separator possibly solve the problem (assuming it's water in the fuel)? Just looking for some opinions on this. Thanks.","I honestly can't be sure if the RPMs are the same now as they were back in June, but I can definitely tell that it takes longer to plane and the acceleration does feel slower. That's a good point about the reading from the speedometer on the boat, so I'll compare it to my gps. Thanks.","I honestly can't be sure if the RPMs are the same now as they were back in June, but I can definitely tell that it takes longer to plane and the acceleration does feel slower. That's a good point about the reading from the speedometer on the boat, so I'll compare it to my gps. Thanks.","I usually first check for spark (no compression gauge here). With the engine running at idle, pull one plug wire at a time and then replace it. If you pull one wire and the engine starts to stall out or dies at least you know that cylinder is firing. Try that with both cylinders and see they are both firing. If you pull one and it makes no difference then you know that cylinger isn't firing. Pull the plug from the cylinder that isn't firing and move it to the one that was and see if that cylinder no longer fires. If the good cylinder doesn't fire with it in that cylinder, replace the plug. If it does fire, place the plug in the plug boot to the cylinder that wasn't firing, ground the bottom of the plug to the engine block somewhere and see if you can see a spark when you turn over the engine. No spark - could be a coil. Try swapping coils and see if the problem moves. IF the problem moves, repalce the coil. IF it doesn't move, check back here with your results for next steps." +"Greetings, + +I've found myself caring for my parent's 20' pontoon with a Yamaha 75 2 stroke. It ran fine last year; I've put 4 hours on it this season and it's not getting up to full power. 3900 or so RPM's and 15 knots when the norm has been around 5200 and 21 knots. I fly jets for a living, not a piston guy let alone knowledgeable about marine engines but I checked the plugs... they seem ok. The fuel filter was clean, super clean. Engine only has 122 hours on it. My gut is that it is something simple... shop can't get out there for three weeks but said to change the plugs anyhow. Looking for anything I can do/check that is reasonable, keeping in mind I know nuthin'. + +It's the C75T - I mix the oil/gas at 1:50... used a fresh tank of non-ethanol 89 octane.","Are you mixing the fuel at 1-50 or 50-1. +Difference is 50-1 = 50 parts fuel to 1 part oil which is what it should be. +1-50 is 1 part fuel to 50 parts oil. + +It sounds like you are running on 2 cylinders easiest test is a cylinder drop test. Take a plastic pliers and while it is running pull the spark plug wires off 1 at a time and see if the idle changes. The plug that has no effect on the idle with the wire off is the one that doesn't work. Or you can get a spark checker and make sure each plug wire jumps an air gap 7/16""","Are you mixing the fuel at 1-50 or 50-1. +Difference is 50-1 = 50 parts fuel to 1 part oil which is what it should be. +1-50 is 1 part fuel to 50 parts oil. + +It sounds like you are running on 2 cylinders easiest test is a cylinder drop test. Take a plastic pliers and while it is running pull the spark plug wires off 1 at a time and see if the idle changes. The plug that has no effect on the idle with the wire off is the one that doesn't work. Or you can get a spark checker and make sure each plug wire jumps an air gap 7/16""",thanks +"Greetings, + +I've found myself caring for my parent's 20' pontoon with a Yamaha 75 2 stroke. It ran fine last year; I've put 4 hours on it this season and it's not getting up to full power. 3900 or so RPM's and 15 knots when the norm has been around 5200 and 21 knots. I fly jets for a living, not a piston guy let alone knowledgeable about marine engines but I checked the plugs... they seem ok. The fuel filter was clean, super clean. Engine only has 122 hours on it. My gut is that it is something simple... shop can't get out there for three weeks but said to change the plugs anyhow. Looking for anything I can do/check that is reasonable, keeping in mind I know nuthin'. + +It's the C75T - I mix the oil/gas at 1:50... used a fresh tank of non-ethanol 89 octane.","I say another fuel flow issue. Old ethanol fuel has gummed up as the retirees don't use it enough, won't spend the $ on 100% gas if its available and won't pay to add fuel treatment at every fuel fill all the time. Check my response to another posted tonight. Welcome to the joys of this crap 10%ethanol gas we've had forced on us.","I say another fuel flow issue. Old ethanol fuel has gummed up as the retirees don't use it enough, won't spend the $ on 100% gas if its available and won't pay to add fuel treatment at every fuel fill all the time. Check my response to another posted tonight. Welcome to the joys of this crap 10%ethanol gas we've had forced on us.","If you trailer your boat long distances be sure and install bearing buddies that way you can shoot some grease in the hubs so they dont pull in water when you launch the boat. Just take a grease gun with you if you submerge the hot hubs in cold water they cool quickly and create a vacuum pulling in water through the seals. +EDIT do both wheels at the same time that way you can use the other side to get the proper parts." +"Greetings, + +I've found myself caring for my parent's 20' pontoon with a Yamaha 75 2 stroke. It ran fine last year; I've put 4 hours on it this season and it's not getting up to full power. 3900 or so RPM's and 15 knots when the norm has been around 5200 and 21 knots. I fly jets for a living, not a piston guy let alone knowledgeable about marine engines but I checked the plugs... they seem ok. The fuel filter was clean, super clean. Engine only has 122 hours on it. My gut is that it is something simple... shop can't get out there for three weeks but said to change the plugs anyhow. Looking for anything I can do/check that is reasonable, keeping in mind I know nuthin'. + +It's the C75T - I mix the oil/gas at 1:50... used a fresh tank of non-ethanol 89 octane.","Thanks for for the input. It's 50:1 + +If a cylinder is offline we are perhaps looking at replacing spark plug wires/plug boot? + + + +flyingscott said: + + + + Are you mixing the fuel at 1-50 or 50-1. +Difference is 50-1 = 50 parts fuel to 1 part oil which is what it should be. +1-50 is 1 part fuel to 50 parts oil. + +It sounds like you are running on 2 cylinders easiest test is a cylinder drop test. Take a plastic pliers and while it is running pull the spark plug wires off 1 at a time and see if the idle changes. The plug that has no effect on the idle with the wire off is the one that doesn't work. Or you can get a spark checker and make sure each plug wire jumps an air gap 7/16"" + +Click to expand...","Thanks for for the input. It's 50:1 + +If a cylinder is offline we are perhaps looking at replacing spark plug wires/plug boot? + + + +flyingscott said: + + + + Are you mixing the fuel at 1-50 or 50-1. +Difference is 50-1 = 50 parts fuel to 1 part oil which is what it should be. +1-50 is 1 part fuel to 50 parts oil. + +It sounds like you are running on 2 cylinders easiest test is a cylinder drop test. Take a plastic pliers and while it is running pull the spark plug wires off 1 at a time and see if the idle changes. The plug that has no effect on the idle with the wire off is the one that doesn't work. Or you can get a spark checker and make sure each plug wire jumps an air gap 7/16"" + +Click to expand...","racerone said: + + + + Some plastics can be welded.----You must nave somebody in the GTA that you can consult.---Auto body shops may help find somebody. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks for the suggestion." +"Greetings, + +I've found myself caring for my parent's 20' pontoon with a Yamaha 75 2 stroke. It ran fine last year; I've put 4 hours on it this season and it's not getting up to full power. 3900 or so RPM's and 15 knots when the norm has been around 5200 and 21 knots. I fly jets for a living, not a piston guy let alone knowledgeable about marine engines but I checked the plugs... they seem ok. The fuel filter was clean, super clean. Engine only has 122 hours on it. My gut is that it is something simple... shop can't get out there for three weeks but said to change the plugs anyhow. Looking for anything I can do/check that is reasonable, keeping in mind I know nuthin'. + +It's the C75T - I mix the oil/gas at 1:50... used a fresh tank of non-ethanol 89 octane.",Don't know yet will have to do the test. May just be plugs maybe something more. If you have spark could be a fuel issue.,Don't know yet will have to do the test. May just be plugs maybe something more. If you have spark could be a fuel issue.,"If something got so hot it burned away the insulation, you better make a thorough inspection of the entire wiring before venturing out into the big briny sea." +"Greetings, + +I've found myself caring for my parent's 20' pontoon with a Yamaha 75 2 stroke. It ran fine last year; I've put 4 hours on it this season and it's not getting up to full power. 3900 or so RPM's and 15 knots when the norm has been around 5200 and 21 knots. I fly jets for a living, not a piston guy let alone knowledgeable about marine engines but I checked the plugs... they seem ok. The fuel filter was clean, super clean. Engine only has 122 hours on it. My gut is that it is something simple... shop can't get out there for three weeks but said to change the plugs anyhow. Looking for anything I can do/check that is reasonable, keeping in mind I know nuthin'. + +It's the C75T - I mix the oil/gas at 1:50... used a fresh tank of non-ethanol 89 octane.","Ok so it's been a long process, getting on the service call schedule for a marina during the boating season. It was in fact running on 2 of the 3 cylinders. The shop cleaned the carburetors and installed a new fuel pump. It's running perfectly, now. I learned a few things in the process and am thankful for the input I received here.","Ok so it's been a long process, getting on the service call schedule for a marina during the boating season. It was in fact running on 2 of the 3 cylinders. The shop cleaned the carburetors and installed a new fuel pump. It's running perfectly, now. I learned a few things in the process and am thankful for the input I received here.","Hey, I found this chart that shows codes for motors that are Japanese mariner models. The 663 code is in there which means it could be 1974-1979. see attachment." +"Greetings, + +I've found myself caring for my parent's 20' pontoon with a Yamaha 75 2 stroke. It ran fine last year; I've put 4 hours on it this season and it's not getting up to full power. 3900 or so RPM's and 15 knots when the norm has been around 5200 and 21 knots. I fly jets for a living, not a piston guy let alone knowledgeable about marine engines but I checked the plugs... they seem ok. The fuel filter was clean, super clean. Engine only has 122 hours on it. My gut is that it is something simple... shop can't get out there for three weeks but said to change the plugs anyhow. Looking for anything I can do/check that is reasonable, keeping in mind I know nuthin'. + +It's the C75T - I mix the oil/gas at 1:50... used a fresh tank of non-ethanol 89 octane.","snp1973 said: + + + + Ok so it's been a long process, getting on the service call schedule for a marina during the boating season. It was in fact running on 2 of the 3 cylinders. The shop cleaned the carburetors and installed a new fuel pump. It's running perfectly, now. I learned a few things in the process and am thankful for the input I received here. + +Click to expand... + +\ + +Glad it's running but not glad to hear you lost so much boating time waiting for Yamaha Mafia Service and that they sold you a new fuel pump you probably didn't need if I were to guess. At this stage, who knows? I won't even ask what the bill was as I know it was a big bill but, then again, it's your parent's boat, you don't have time to wrench on it yourself as you make your $ flying jets and under those circumstances it's best to just throw some money at it, get it fixed, and know mom and dad can take the boat out and not worry about it if they chose. The Yamaha Service Mafia has to make a living too (although we do our best here to see to it they don't eat steak for dinner every night as most of us don't). Now go have fun with family and friends between legs!","snp1973 said: + + + + Ok so it's been a long process, getting on the service call schedule for a marina during the boating season. It was in fact running on 2 of the 3 cylinders. The shop cleaned the carburetors and installed a new fuel pump. It's running perfectly, now. I learned a few things in the process and am thankful for the input I received here. + +Click to expand... + +\ + +Glad it's running but not glad to hear you lost so much boating time waiting for Yamaha Mafia Service and that they sold you a new fuel pump you probably didn't need if I were to guess. At this stage, who knows? I won't even ask what the bill was as I know it was a big bill but, then again, it's your parent's boat, you don't have time to wrench on it yourself as you make your $ flying jets and under those circumstances it's best to just throw some money at it, get it fixed, and know mom and dad can take the boat out and not worry about it if they chose. The Yamaha Service Mafia has to make a living too (although we do our best here to see to it they don't eat steak for dinner every night as most of us don't). Now go have fun with family and friends between legs!","steel tank...??? possible but not common... + +most pickup tubes have a pipe thread fitting at the top....hopefully, what you see is the bung welded to the top of the tank... + +repair is usually accomplished by replacement...and they get trimmed to fit..." +"Greetings, + +I've found myself caring for my parent's 20' pontoon with a Yamaha 75 2 stroke. It ran fine last year; I've put 4 hours on it this season and it's not getting up to full power. 3900 or so RPM's and 15 knots when the norm has been around 5200 and 21 knots. I fly jets for a living, not a piston guy let alone knowledgeable about marine engines but I checked the plugs... they seem ok. The fuel filter was clean, super clean. Engine only has 122 hours on it. My gut is that it is something simple... shop can't get out there for three weeks but said to change the plugs anyhow. Looking for anything I can do/check that is reasonable, keeping in mind I know nuthin'. + +It's the C75T - I mix the oil/gas at 1:50... used a fresh tank of non-ethanol 89 octane.","Run boat more often to avoid fuel issues, Add fuel treatments on every fillup. Follow storing instructions after season is over. Running fuel out of system at end of year might help to avoid same issue next year. there will be pros &cons on this subject.","Run boat more often to avoid fuel issues, Add fuel treatments on every fillup. Follow storing instructions after season is over. Running fuel out of system at end of year might help to avoid same issue next year. there will be pros &cons on this subject.","If a carb engine, the carbs need to be cleaned." +"Up for your consideration is a YAMAHA outboard boat motor 115hp, this nice looking outboard motor starts right up and runs great, the motor is super clean and its in excellent shape, All of the original paint and decals pristine with no fading and shine like new, just some little scratches on the rear of the hood, the propeller too is in excellent condition, all four cylinders compression checked out perfect at 190psi, no smoke or shakes, The power tilt works very well. + +115 yamaha highlights, electric start, fuel injection, remote operated, power tilt, four strokes, four cylinder, model number: F115TLRD, long shaft, 401lbs. + +Am asking for $4900 usd + + +Pm me if you need any other details. + +Thanks for looking","This is a REPAIR FORUM.. Not a FOR SALE forum. List it on Ebay with the other 10,000 outboards that are for sale and don't waste our time here again.","This is a REPAIR FORUM.. Not a FOR SALE forum. List it on Ebay with the other 10,000 outboards that are for sale and don't waste our time here again.","most engine alternator's have their output wire going to the BAT terminal at the starter's solenoid. being as I can't see what is where, wiring-wise, you'll have to check that. Some also install inline high capacity fuses in that line as well. Best thing to do is trace the wire fromm the alternator's output lug. + +I wouldn't suggest unplugging an alternator on a running engine unless you know exactly what connects where. If the output is 15.3VDC, It may be ok depending upon where the regulator is sensing. + +Slipping belts should be tightened or replaced; not good on anything. + +Split charge diode - over here we'd call that an isolator. That could also be the source of the charge for the starting battery. Again, you'll have to trace it out to know. + +Based on the control panel description, sounds like something isn't working. May be best to figure out which alternator connects to where and take it one step at a time. + +For a battery to charge, the source needs to provide current at the proper voltage. Lots of ways of making the combination but if the product isn't right, the battery won't charge." +I am having an issue with my 2001 Yamaha 115HP 2-stroke outboard where after about an hour of running an alarm goes off.I have a full oil tank and full reserve oil tank and the water pump seems to be working OK.Is this a common occurrence with these motors ? any advice would be greatly appreciated.,"I'm no that familiar with that engine but have you pulled lower gearcase and checked the water pump impeller, housing and plate for any signs of wear? Then, pulled the thermostat, placed it in a pot of water on the stove, turned on the heat with a thermometer in the pot and seen that it opens and at what temperature? Perhaps it's not ""fully"" opening if the water pump is operating fine? Back-flushed some water with a garden hose through the thermostat port when you have it out to maybe clear any clogging ot partial clogging? I am assuming the warning signal you are hearing is an over-heat warning and not a low oil warning.","I'm no that familiar with that engine but have you pulled lower gearcase and checked the water pump impeller, housing and plate for any signs of wear? Then, pulled the thermostat, placed it in a pot of water on the stove, turned on the heat with a thermometer in the pot and seen that it opens and at what temperature? Perhaps it's not ""fully"" opening if the water pump is operating fine? Back-flushed some water with a garden hose through the thermostat port when you have it out to maybe clear any clogging ot partial clogging? I am assuming the warning signal you are hearing is an over-heat warning and not a low oil warning.","Have the owner look for the serial number plate, located starboard side of engine bracket. Use the pictures below as a guide. Once you have the information on the plate you can then determine the year. I can, however, tell you as a matter of fact the engine is older than 1998. I have a '98 115 and my top cowling is much different than the one you have pictured. So I'm guessing it's an early 90's model, late 80's at most. + + + + + + +As far as specifics to the engine in question....I don't know the model or year, so no point in guessing. With that said, it's a 2 stroke engine. Yamaha produced excellent 2 stroke outboards. The condition of the engine is proportional to how it's been maintained throughout the 20+ years. It's no cliche....a well maintained 2 stroke outboard will run indefinitely. It's a good the engine you're looking at is still hanging on a transom. There is no amount of diagnostic testing that is more important than the outcome of how the engine performs while under load. So before you buy I highly suggest a sea trial, including running the engine at WOT. If something is amiss, it will show itself when you're pushing the engine hard. Which is what you want to know. Good luck." +I am having an issue with my 2001 Yamaha 115HP 2-stroke outboard where after about an hour of running an alarm goes off.I have a full oil tank and full reserve oil tank and the water pump seems to be working OK.Is this a common occurrence with these motors ? any advice would be greatly appreciated.,Found defective wire harness from supply oil tank to engine.I replaced the harness-OK now.No further alarm.,Found defective wire harness from supply oil tank to engine.I replaced the harness-OK now.No further alarm.,Check all your wiring and make shure no wires are grounding out.Have alternator checked!! +I am having an issue with my 2001 Yamaha 115HP 2-stroke outboard where after about an hour of running an alarm goes off.I have a full oil tank and full reserve oil tank and the water pump seems to be working OK.Is this a common occurrence with these motors ? any advice would be greatly appreciated.,Thanks for sharing your solution. Please do share how you diagnosed and discovered those defective wires so others here don't have to go through what I recomended.,Thanks for sharing your solution. Please do share how you diagnosed and discovered those defective wires so others here don't have to go through what I recomended.,you can 'pre-fill' the new filter with fresh clean fuel and eliminate the 736 trillion cranks.....a bit of a pain but an option... +"I have a 1999 Yamaha 40/28 Jet Drive outboard motor. I was reading some old threads and came across this one about upgrading the power head from 40 HP to 50 HP by replacing the corroborators and exhaust. + +http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?61764-Upgrade-your-40hp-to-50hp& + +Does anyone have more information on how to do this. Part numbers and how hard is it to do? + +Thanks.",From what I looked up on the part numbers for the carburetors and jets they are the same parts numbers for both 40 HP and 50 HP models. Not sure about the exhaust part #'s So I'm guessing it may be just returning the carburetors to get it up to 50 HP??,From what I looked up on the part numbers for the carburetors and jets they are the same parts numbers for both 40 HP and 50 HP models. Not sure about the exhaust part #'s So I'm guessing it may be just returning the carburetors to get it up to 50 HP??,"chawk_man said: + + + + That looks like a fine piece of work. Congratulations! + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks chawk man ,, it really wasn't bad with there help. And I have been using the boat every chance i get....." +"I have a 1999 Yamaha 40/28 Jet Drive outboard motor. I was reading some old threads and came across this one about upgrading the power head from 40 HP to 50 HP by replacing the corroborators and exhaust. + +http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?61764-Upgrade-your-40hp-to-50hp& + +Does anyone have more information on how to do this. Part numbers and how hard is it to do? + +Thanks.","From what I looked up on the part numbers for the carburetors and jets they are the same parts numbers for both 40 HP and 50 HP models. Not sure about the exhaust part #'s So I'm guessing it may be just returning the carburetors to get it up to 50 HP?? + +The part numbers for the pistons and crank assembly are also the same between the 40 HP and 50 HP models.","From what I looked up on the part numbers for the carburetors and jets they are the same parts numbers for both 40 HP and 50 HP models. Not sure about the exhaust part #'s So I'm guessing it may be just returning the carburetors to get it up to 50 HP?? + +The part numbers for the pistons and crank assembly are also the same between the 40 HP and 50 HP models.","vroomZOOM said: + + + + Hmm... had an issue on my johnson 20 that when I raised the throttle it would surge like crazy. cdi box was the problem, swapped it out and it cured the problem + +Click to expand... + + +I have also been thinking about that. Anyone else had this issue with a 4-stroke?" +Does anyone have any ideas.... have twin 25 4 strokes and one engine is cutting out after about 25 minutes of running.... It is not over heating. It cut out the other day so cleaned the carb and still would not go. Put on a spare carb and started fine again... But then cut out again 15 - 20 minutes later... Grateful for any ideas....,"Are these engines on Separate portable fuel tanks? The vent screw on the tank that feeds the OB that is dieing is fully open and not creating a vaccume in the tank? If on portable tanks have you checked the fuel pick-up line that sits in the bottom of the tank and checked for any filter that could be on the end of the line that is clogging or clogged from gumming/debris in the tank or tried swapping the tanks from one engine to the other. If none of the above works try swapping the coils from engine to engine and see if the problem moves to the other engine. Coils going bad will fail when they get hot under the cowling. Luckily with 2 identical engines, you can swap parts back and forth and see which part moves the problem to the other engine. Find that part and you found the problem.","Are these engines on Separate portable fuel tanks? The vent screw on the tank that feeds the OB that is dieing is fully open and not creating a vaccume in the tank? If on portable tanks have you checked the fuel pick-up line that sits in the bottom of the tank and checked for any filter that could be on the end of the line that is clogging or clogged from gumming/debris in the tank or tried swapping the tanks from one engine to the other. If none of the above works try swapping the coils from engine to engine and see if the problem moves to the other engine. Coils going bad will fail when they get hot under the cowling. Luckily with 2 identical engines, you can swap parts back and forth and see which part moves the problem to the other engine. Find that part and you found the problem.","I wasn't very clear. I'm also needing the kit to modify a 2002 Yamaha T8PXHA to accept the side mount remote control as well. I watched a video, and there were brackets and other things that had to be added/replaced. I have a side mount remote control that used to be connected to the same vintage Yamaha 9.9 before someone stole it and cut the throttle and shift cables and snipped off the power/control connector from that cable. + +Better questions are, does anyone know what the parts kit is, or who might sell them, or who may know who might have something like this for sale." +"A little over a year ago, I bought a C60 2-stroke to repower my 15ft A/B Inflatable VST Oceanus. A few months ago, I had a shop do a thorough check-up and found out that one of the cylinders is down on compression. I don't know if it was bad before or after the purchase, but just this Sunday, I had a fuel starved loss of full throttle. This may or may not be due to the low compression, as it would run fine when I pumped the bulb. + + +In any case, I checked the fuel filter and it was as clean as could be-no a speck of debris. I also drained one of the carb bowels and nothing but clear fuel came out. I think this problem may be due to a kink in the fuel line where it goes through the hull (I have a lot of hoses and wires going through that 2-inch hole). + +Since I was checking everything out, I hooked up my compression gauge and it read: 110, 110, 85 psi on the cylinders. How bad is that? Should I even take this boat out again? I wonder if it was always that bad. + + +I have been planning to upgrade to a new motor, and wondering if I should go up to the 70HP 4-stroke (F70LA) since the current 60HP never performed as well as I needed (difficult to plane with 4 passengers and max of 30mph). If those compression numbers were always like that, maybe a new 60HP (F60LB) would perform a lot better than the old/bad 60 2-stroke. +Comparison wise, it seems like the F70LA is only around 5 pounds heavier than the F60LB. It is also less than $500 more. That leads me to believe that I should just go for the 70HP. + + +Should I pull the trigger and buy the 70HP instead of putting more money into the failing C60? All advice welcomed. + + +Thanks, +Steve","Have you backed out the fuel brass fuel jets on the carbs and checked to see if there is any gumming inside the jets? I'd buy a few cans of jet spray carb cleaner pull the carbs and fully clean them completely. If there is some gumming in any that carb cleaner won't clear run some COPPER wire through the jet to clean it without scratching it (copper is softer than brass). Pull the mechanical fuel pump and see if the diaphram is worn, torn, has a hole, etc. as you can keep it running by squeezing the fuel bulb. + +As far as 85 PSI on the one cylinder - the cylinder probably has some rings going bad and could have some scoring on the cyinder wall(probably caused by a partial clog in the carb feeding that cylinder at some point causing it to run too lean which = not enough fuel (and oil) to properly lubricate the rings. However, others may disagree but I don't think that cylinder is toast as it is still delivering 85 PSI and since you've been running it that way without probs other than the loss of power of late if you're not running offshore (which I doubt in a 15' inflatable) or in an area where you aren't comfortable limping home on 2 cylinders should it totally fail I'd keep running it if you can solve the loss of power problem (though I'd stop pushing it to full throttle and start babying it from now on). + +With some blow-by on that cylinder it's not going to run at peak performance but it wouldn't be the 1st engine to keep on running with a cylinder down on compression for a long time if maintained and not allowed to get worse. IF it's 60HP and only capable of a true 50 HP at this point that's still plenty to move a 15' inflatable! Of course, if money is no object by all means step up to a new 4-stroke and eliminate a worry. I tend to view old 2-strokes like an old straight-6 Chevy 250 that could keep running on lower compression and lower oil pressure for a long, long time. I'd replace the fuel pump diaphram (cheap fix if that's what's causing the problem) but I would not put serious $ into it as far as re-ringing or re-boreing that cylinder as it is a 1998 engine. I'd personally get the fuel flow issue fixed, baby it and keep running run it but that's just me. I'd be interested in hearing what others here have to say.","Have you backed out the fuel brass fuel jets on the carbs and checked to see if there is any gumming inside the jets? I'd buy a few cans of jet spray carb cleaner pull the carbs and fully clean them completely. If there is some gumming in any that carb cleaner won't clear run some COPPER wire through the jet to clean it without scratching it (copper is softer than brass). Pull the mechanical fuel pump and see if the diaphram is worn, torn, has a hole, etc. as you can keep it running by squeezing the fuel bulb. + +As far as 85 PSI on the one cylinder - the cylinder probably has some rings going bad and could have some scoring on the cyinder wall(probably caused by a partial clog in the carb feeding that cylinder at some point causing it to run too lean which = not enough fuel (and oil) to properly lubricate the rings. However, others may disagree but I don't think that cylinder is toast as it is still delivering 85 PSI and since you've been running it that way without probs other than the loss of power of late if you're not running offshore (which I doubt in a 15' inflatable) or in an area where you aren't comfortable limping home on 2 cylinders should it totally fail I'd keep running it if you can solve the loss of power problem (though I'd stop pushing it to full throttle and start babying it from now on). + +With some blow-by on that cylinder it's not going to run at peak performance but it wouldn't be the 1st engine to keep on running with a cylinder down on compression for a long time if maintained and not allowed to get worse. IF it's 60HP and only capable of a true 50 HP at this point that's still plenty to move a 15' inflatable! Of course, if money is no object by all means step up to a new 4-stroke and eliminate a worry. I tend to view old 2-strokes like an old straight-6 Chevy 250 that could keep running on lower compression and lower oil pressure for a long, long time. I'd replace the fuel pump diaphram (cheap fix if that's what's causing the problem) but I would not put serious $ into it as far as re-ringing or re-boreing that cylinder as it is a 1998 engine. I'd personally get the fuel flow issue fixed, baby it and keep running run it but that's just me. I'd be interested in hearing what others here have to say.","Before you chase your tail on a fuel issue......... + +You will need to check for spark when this condition happens again. Verify ignition spark, if you have ignition then you have a fuel/heat issue." +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"If its blowing the fuse, there is something wrong with that circuit which includes the fuel pump.","If its blowing the fuse, there is something wrong with that circuit which includes the fuel pump.","Yup. Expensive lesson $400 for the CDI unit. Now I have a spare CDI unit lol. Majority of the running issues are related to fuel problem. So install as many fuel filter as you can before it gets to the motor. I have a clear filter after the fuel/water separator. Any foreign particle gets thru the separator I can see right the way, including water. Good luck." +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"Hi Chris thanks for advice, i have unplugged both Hp and Lp fuel Pumps and fuse still blows. Also i have elimated the control loom and gauges. +When i turn on ignition there is a continuous audible dash alarm but it is very quiet not as loud as the usual start up chirp.","Hi Chris thanks for advice, i have unplugged both Hp and Lp fuel Pumps and fuse still blows. Also i have elimated the control loom and gauges. +When i turn on ignition there is a continuous audible dash alarm but it is very quiet not as loud as the usual start up chirp.","mechanicman said: + + + + 15v isn't that bad. Is that at idle? What is it at wot? You need a rectifier to get dc voltage and a regulator to get 14v you can't just tuck away the wires unless your not going to have a charging system.. + +Click to expand... + + +thanks for the reply... I didn’t test at WOT... but the 15.5 was idle, and the 15.75 was about half throttle... would lead me to believe it’d climb to around 16 at wot. + +to be clear... I’m not hung up on having the charging system at all. I’d be just as happy to disconnect the rectifier and leads altogether if it’s safe to do so." +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"If the fuse is blowing as soon as you install it, this will be easy to find. Problem is, it is not in front of me and you will need to do the exploration. Put a light bulb in place of the fuse, Start unplugging things, when the light goes out you are close.","If the fuse is blowing as soon as you install it, this will be easy to find. Problem is, it is not in front of me and you will need to do the exploration. Put a light bulb in place of the fuse, Start unplugging things, when the light goes out you are close.",can you tell me what letters get what wire connected thanks +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + If the fuse is blowing as soon as you install it, this will be easy to find. Problem is, it is not in front of me and you will need to do the exploration. Put a light bulb in place of the fuse, Start unplugging things, when the light goes out you are close. + +Click to expand... + + +Another reason EVERYONE should purchase and learn how to use a cheap multimeter!","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + If the fuse is blowing as soon as you install it, this will be easy to find. Problem is, it is not in front of me and you will need to do the exploration. Put a light bulb in place of the fuse, Start unplugging things, when the light goes out you are close. + +Click to expand... + + +Another reason EVERYONE should purchase and learn how to use a cheap multimeter!",Yes I would say it is a flat bottom boat with a semi-v front. At 5000 rpms with 3 adults and 1-8 year old it was going 40 mph according to gps. That is faster than I want to go. Just double guessing myself about 90 hp. +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"deepsea21 said: + + + + Another reason EVERYONE should purchase and learn how to use a cheap multimeter! + +Click to expand... + + +Fluke 88 is what I recommend. I have been using the same Fluke meter since 1989.","deepsea21 said: + + + + Another reason EVERYONE should purchase and learn how to use a cheap multimeter! + +Click to expand... + + +Fluke 88 is what I recommend. I have been using the same Fluke meter since 1989.","Find a certified marine surveyor in your area, or contact your insurance company and see who they use in your area." +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Fluke 88 is what I recommend. I have been using the same Fluke meter since 1989. + +Click to expand... + + +Just checked the price of a new Fluke 88. OUCH! Of course, if one uses a multimeter daily one of that quality is justified. Personally, my multimeter was less than $20 and for a ""shade-tree mechanic"" it does everything I've ever needed it to do.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Fluke 88 is what I recommend. I have been using the same Fluke meter since 1989. + +Click to expand... + + +Just checked the price of a new Fluke 88. OUCH! Of course, if one uses a multimeter daily one of that quality is justified. Personally, my multimeter was less than $20 and for a ""shade-tree mechanic"" it does everything I've ever needed it to do.","Hi impag - +I'm a sailer too, so I feel your pain. I would definitely get a water-separating fuel filter on there as quickly as you can, if for no other reason than as a troubleshooting point. + +Did you check the fuel ball to see if it is collapsed when the engine stutters? If so, you may have a clogged vent on that tank, and it could be impeding the flow of fuel to the carb. + +Rob" +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"Hi Chris +I have done this and the only time i can get the light to go out is if i remove the main fuse ro the ECU or by unplugging the ECU. Does thisnmean the ECU is bad?","Hi Chris +I have done this and the only time i can get the light to go out is if i remove the main fuse ro the ECU or by unplugging the ECU. Does thisnmean the ECU is bad?","Yes, try pushing this button." +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"Matt Mannington said: + + + + Hi Chris +I have done this and the only time i can get the light to go out is if i remove the main fuse ro the ECU or by unplugging the ECU. Does thisnmean the ECU is bad? + +Click to expand... + + +Don't run out and buy an ECU yet. $$$$ Where are you located?","Matt Mannington said: + + + + Hi Chris +I have done this and the only time i can get the light to go out is if i remove the main fuse ro the ECU or by unplugging the ECU. Does thisnmean the ECU is bad? + +Click to expand... + + +Don't run out and buy an ECU yet. $$$$ Where are you located?",In the normal running position most outboards drain the water out.----But consult your owners manual on your model. +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Don't run out and buy an ECU yet. $$$$ Where are you located? + +Click to expand... + + +Im in New Zealand...","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Don't run out and buy an ECU yet. $$$$ Where are you located? + +Click to expand... + + +Im in New Zealand...","johnnygjr said: + + + + There's also lines engineered for the ethanol fuels available at your local marine center + +Click to expand... + + +No kidding, I hadn't know this. I wonder what's added to the rubber to prevent ethanol corrosion, and why it's not added to all marine fuel hoses." +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"Further info if this will help. +if I remove the 20amp fuse for the main switch and trim switch and turn the key on, no fuse will blow. +if it replace all of the fuses and then turn the key on the 20amp fuse for the ECU/ignition coil/fuel pump/fuel injectors/ISC blows instantly. +i have pulled the engine loom out and checked it and it seems ok. +When it I put the light in place of the fuse the fuel pump control relay hums o I tried a spare one but made no difference. +could it be an ignition coil problem?","Further info if this will help. +if I remove the 20amp fuse for the main switch and trim switch and turn the key on, no fuse will blow. +if it replace all of the fuses and then turn the key on the 20amp fuse for the ECU/ignition coil/fuel pump/fuel injectors/ISC blows instantly. +i have pulled the engine loom out and checked it and it seems ok. +When it I put the light in place of the fuse the fuel pump control relay hums o I tried a spare one but made no difference. +could it be an ignition coil problem?",Guys here is the picture of the fuel tank pickup. If you notice there is some red pipe dope on the barb where my mechanic replaced the anti-siphon valve. He said nothing about replacing the pickup tube.View attachment 24824View attachment 24823View attachment 24824View attachment 24823 +My F225 is blowing the fuse that supplies power to both fuel pumps but the pumps are ok,"I will get out the wiring diagram and take a look. You will need to isolate which circuit is at fault. + +To answer your question on the coils, disconnect them and see if the fuse blows.","I will get out the wiring diagram and take a look. You will need to isolate which circuit is at fault. + +To answer your question on the coils, disconnect them and see if the fuse blows.","racerone said: + + + + Is the screen in place on the fuel pump ??-------Inspected inside of your fuel tank ? + +Click to expand... + + +i havent checked, i will check tomorrow after work and repost what i find, thanks" +"07 Yamaha 25E Electric starter works when cold every time, but will fail to spin sometime after it warms up. You can manually wiggle +the gear on top of the starter shaft and it will work then. + Brushes or something else? + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +e","place hand on starter carefully,is it getting very hot. Do a voltage drop test on it with a dvm.","place hand on starter carefully,is it getting very hot. Do a voltage drop test on it with a dvm.",Yeah gonna avoid that and pump it thanks for the info. +"I looking at a 2003 200HP 2 stroke VMax with 500 hrs. Did a compression test that resulted with 100 PSI on all cylinders. Does this seem low? If so what are normal numbers and what PSI with the cylinders start having problems? + +Thanks,",As long as your compression test is the same on all cylinders and at 100 PSI I'd say you are OK. I'd like to see compression up around 115-120PSI on that engine but there are lots of things that can cause a lower PSI read... Was the engine hot/warm when you tested? How accurate is the gauge you used? Warm up the motor runningand then pull all plugs and see if you read higher and consistent across all cylinders. What causes concern is if you test all cylinders and find one seems out-of-whack that is probably fried.,As long as your compression test is the same on all cylinders and at 100 PSI I'd say you are OK. I'd like to see compression up around 115-120PSI on that engine but there are lots of things that can cause a lower PSI read... Was the engine hot/warm when you tested? How accurate is the gauge you used? Warm up the motor runningand then pull all plugs and see if you read higher and consistent across all cylinders. What causes concern is if you test all cylinders and find one seems out-of-whack that is probably fried.,"First you have to verify that the ignition system is not firing on that cylinder. If it is not firing the plug You will need a Peak Reading adapter for a digital volt meter or an analog volt meter to test this system. + +Here is a link to a guide to help you. Around page 115 + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/cdi_troubleshooting_guide_-_2012_1?e=2044661/2001100" +My F30 cowl rattles at certain rpms. Would someone be kind enough to tell me how to adjust this?,"Sometimes the glue that was used to fasten the rubber gasket that resides along the entire bottom edge of the cowling comes unglued and the cowling can rattle a bit. If you can pull that gasket off, any marine silicon-based sealant can be squirted in there or even some Epoxy if you have it laying around that can be mixed can be squirted or brushing inside that gasket and then placed back on the cowling. (this assumes your cowling gasket has come lose of course)","Sometimes the glue that was used to fasten the rubber gasket that resides along the entire bottom edge of the cowling comes unglued and the cowling can rattle a bit. If you can pull that gasket off, any marine silicon-based sealant can be squirted in there or even some Epoxy if you have it laying around that can be mixed can be squirted or brushing inside that gasket and then placed back on the cowling. (this assumes your cowling gasket has come lose of course)",You would take boat out of the water.--------Then check gearcase oil condition.------Possibly there is lots of water in the gearcase.--------Ran seemingly OK last time it was used ??? +My F30 cowl rattles at certain rpms. Would someone be kind enough to tell me how to adjust this?,That is not the problem. Any other suggestions?,That is not the problem. Any other suggestions?,Thanks rejesterd. I will check my vents this afternoon. It just started this a few weeks ago. First I thought it was bad gas but I have emptied both tanks so that doesn't seem to be the problem. Thanks again for the information. +My F30 cowl rattles at certain rpms. Would someone be kind enough to tell me how to adjust this?,Are you certain it's the cowling that is causing the rattling and not something inside the cowling? Is the prop in perfect shape? If the rattling is only happening at certain RPM's it could be caused by something out of balance that is creating a harmonic vibration at certain RPM's. Can you grab the cowling while it is fastened down and move it at all or is it snug and tight in place?,Are you certain it's the cowling that is causing the rattling and not something inside the cowling? Is the prop in perfect shape? If the rattling is only happening at certain RPM's it could be caused by something out of balance that is creating a harmonic vibration at certain RPM's. Can you grab the cowling while it is fastened down and move it at all or is it snug and tight in place?,Size your photo down to 1mb & it will load +My F30 cowl rattles at certain rpms. Would someone be kind enough to tell me how to adjust this?,"It could be the prop, it is dinged up. If I press down on the cowling really hard in quietens down some. But + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Are you certain it's the cowling that is causing the rattling and not something inside the cowling? Is the prop in perfect shape? If the rattling is only happening at certain RPM's it could be caused by something out of balance that is creating a harmonic vibration at certain RPM's. Can you grab the cowling while it is fastened down and move it at all or is it snug and tight in place? + +Click to expand...","It could be the prop, it is dinged up. If I press down on the cowling really hard in quietens down some. But + + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Are you certain it's the cowling that is causing the rattling and not something inside the cowling? Is the prop in perfect shape? If the rattling is only happening at certain RPM's it could be caused by something out of balance that is creating a harmonic vibration at certain RPM's. Can you grab the cowling while it is fastened down and move it at all or is it snug and tight in place? + +Click to expand...","No worries, sold the lot all together to someone with enough time to mess with it." +My F30 cowl rattles at certain rpms. Would someone be kind enough to tell me how to adjust this?,I'd usually say take the prop to your closest dealer and have it reconditioned if it is an expensive prop. On an F30... It's not an expensive prop. Take it in to your local dealer and see what they charge to send it out and have it reconditioned. It probably won't cost that much more than buying a new one. Maybe they give you a few bucks credit for it againt a new prop purchase. Reconditioning small props can cost about as much as buying a new one. Your vibration is coming from somewhere and with a dinged prop that could be the source. Worst case it isn't the source but you'll have a nice prop again that doesn't cause wear and tear throughtout the drive train.,I'd usually say take the prop to your closest dealer and have it reconditioned if it is an expensive prop. On an F30... It's not an expensive prop. Take it in to your local dealer and see what they charge to send it out and have it reconditioned. It probably won't cost that much more than buying a new one. Maybe they give you a few bucks credit for it againt a new prop purchase. Reconditioning small props can cost about as much as buying a new one. Your vibration is coming from somewhere and with a dinged prop that could be the source. Worst case it isn't the source but you'll have a nice prop again that doesn't cause wear and tear throughtout the drive train.,"That's a good sign if the engine still runs smooth. The broken stator could be indirectly related to your problem (and should obviously be fixed), but I really doubt that a broken coil would make it that difficult to turn the flywheel like you described. A broken stator just means your battery won't charge as fast (or at all). + +Another easy test to perform (and I should have recommended this before) is a leakdown test. It's more involved than the compression test, but if there's an issue with one of the valves, you'll hear air hissing out when you do the test." +"Motor is pulling hard to right at 3/4 throttle. [ steering boat to the right]. How much would I move the foot adjustment to correct this, and which direction? +5 degrees, 10 or is it trial and error ???",Turn it to the direction it is pulling. Its trial and error as to measurement. You are talking about the trim tab i surmise? Take engine to WOT to check for pulling after adjustments are made.,Turn it to the direction it is pulling. Its trial and error as to measurement. You are talking about the trim tab i surmise? Take engine to WOT to check for pulling after adjustments are made.,"Ayuh,.... The NFB helm will help,.... + +Have ya adjusted the torque tab on the motor, just above the prop,..?? + +Try a different prop, that can also help,..." +"My faithfull 2001 150 hp 2 stroke HPDI (z150p)outboard suddenly stopped working. When i got home i discovered that the fuel hose had fallen off just inside the engine. +Next day i called a mechanic to repair the broken fuel line. The morning he came everything electrical was working perfectly. He disconnected a lot of cables to work on the fuel line. +After putting everything back we tried to fire the engine up again. +The following problems ocurred: +When connecting the battery the engine started to burn one of the fuses. The mechanic came back the day after and started to work on the engine again, cleaning all connections. +Now all instruments come to live when the battery is connected even when key is in off. +When turning the ignition key the trim down starts - and starterengine is not activated. +The trim buttens work normally. + + +The mechanic says that the fuel could affect the electrical wirering (I pumped 2 times before i realised thet the fuel line was broken), but the ignition was working normally when he started working on the engine. + +Has anyone got an idea what could be wrong ? + +Kind regards +Han Johnson",Find another mechanic... One who knows what he is doing and can read an electrical schematic. Everything electrical was working before he pulled a bunch of wires and attempted to reconnect them all. Even a shade-tree mechanic takes some masking tape and #'s the wires and where they went one by one when he's disconnecting all of them so he knows where they go when re-attaching everything. Blames it on some fuel being spilled? C'mon!,Find another mechanic... One who knows what he is doing and can read an electrical schematic. Everything electrical was working before he pulled a bunch of wires and attempted to reconnect them all. Even a shade-tree mechanic takes some masking tape and #'s the wires and where they went one by one when he's disconnecting all of them so he knows where they go when re-attaching everything. Blames it on some fuel being spilled? C'mon!,Spec idle mix is a starting point....when engine is warm turn 1 screw out at a time. Listen to the engine. It will indicate the mix it likes best. +"My faithfull 2001 150 hp 2 stroke HPDI (z150p)outboard suddenly stopped working. When i got home i discovered that the fuel hose had fallen off just inside the engine. +Next day i called a mechanic to repair the broken fuel line. The morning he came everything electrical was working perfectly. He disconnected a lot of cables to work on the fuel line. +After putting everything back we tried to fire the engine up again. +The following problems ocurred: +When connecting the battery the engine started to burn one of the fuses. The mechanic came back the day after and started to work on the engine again, cleaning all connections. +Now all instruments come to live when the battery is connected even when key is in off. +When turning the ignition key the trim down starts - and starterengine is not activated. +The trim buttens work normally. + + +The mechanic says that the fuel could affect the electrical wirering (I pumped 2 times before i realised thet the fuel line was broken), but the ignition was working normally when he started working on the engine. + +Has anyone got an idea what could be wrong ? + +Kind regards +Han Johnson","deepsea21 said: + + + + Find another mechanic... One who knows what he is doing and can read an electrical schematic. Everything electrical was working before he pulled a bunch of wires and attempted to reconnect them all. Even a shade-tree mechanic takes some masking tape and #'s the wires and where they went one by one when he's disconnecting all of them so he knows where they go when re-attaching everything. Blames it on some fuel being spilled? C'mon! + +Click to expand... + + + +hahaha ""blames it on some fuel being spilled?"" + +yea you def need to see another mechanic, I think he made the situation worse","deepsea21 said: + + + + Find another mechanic... One who knows what he is doing and can read an electrical schematic. Everything electrical was working before he pulled a bunch of wires and attempted to reconnect them all. Even a shade-tree mechanic takes some masking tape and #'s the wires and where they went one by one when he's disconnecting all of them so he knows where they go when re-attaching everything. Blames it on some fuel being spilled? C'mon! + +Click to expand... + + + +hahaha ""blames it on some fuel being spilled?"" + +yea you def need to see another mechanic, I think he made the situation worse",Take your hubs up to your local U-haul and see if they will hook you up with the proper bearings and seals? +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???","Not sure about re-jetting carbs at 3,500FT as I run at sea level but it could be running a bit rich. Lower ambient air pressure = less oxygen entering the cylinder on each stroke so you may ask someone about adjusting rich/lean screws on the carbs to run a bit more lean so the fuel air mix is optimal at that altitude.","Not sure about re-jetting carbs at 3,500FT as I run at sea level but it could be running a bit rich. Lower ambient air pressure = less oxygen entering the cylinder on each stroke so you may ask someone about adjusting rich/lean screws on the carbs to run a bit more lean so the fuel air mix is optimal at that altitude.","Also, post your question on the Honda forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" and then click on Honda Outboards. There are several Honda techs and very knowledgeable people who hang out on that forum." +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???","Was engine previously run at 3500 feet,if not rejetting is recommended,smaller jets.contact local dealer in your area for proper ones for your elevation.","Was engine previously run at 3500 feet,if not rejetting is recommended,smaller jets.contact local dealer in your area for proper ones for your elevation.","Teleflex, the marine products company, no longer exists. Sea Star Solutions is the company supplying helms like yours. On their website, click Products > Mechanical Steering > and the helm you are looking for. + +http://www.seastarsolutions.com/ + +I replaced my steering a few years ago, and had a question for Sea Star. Their tech support folks were very helpful." +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???","The engines were bought new (sea level) and fitted here in Entebbe which is about 3500ft. No dealers here. a good days fishing say 7 hours and 35 miles will use about 30 gallons or so + +The rich/ lean screws are only for idle though, is that right??","The engines were bought new (sea level) and fitted here in Entebbe which is about 3500ft. No dealers here. a good days fishing say 7 hours and 35 miles will use about 30 gallons or so + +The rich/ lean screws are only for idle though, is that right??","Ayuh,.... The only way to know for Sure, is to follow the fuel lines to the tank, 'n Look,..." +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???","I'd wait and see if you get any responses from a service tech here or find a service center and ask them. Playing with the rich/lean settings is a very touchy subject. If you run too lean some signs may be backfiring at high RPM, failure to accelerate well, etc. but most worrysome is running a 2-stroke too lean means not enough fuel (that contains the oil) entering the cylinder. That can lead to burned rings, a melted cylinder head, scored cylinder walls and one heck of alot of expense re-boring and re-ringing if neccessary. Far better to be introducing more fuel than necessary than not enough in a 2-stroke. When you say ""engines"" in plural depending on what they are and what they a pushing a little over 1 MPG may not be that unreasonable. Is the boat running fine other than seeming to be gas hog it may just be the nature of twin 2-strokes pushing a heavy boat.","I'd wait and see if you get any responses from a service tech here or find a service center and ask them. Playing with the rich/lean settings is a very touchy subject. If you run too lean some signs may be backfiring at high RPM, failure to accelerate well, etc. but most worrysome is running a 2-stroke too lean means not enough fuel (that contains the oil) entering the cylinder. That can lead to burned rings, a melted cylinder head, scored cylinder walls and one heck of alot of expense re-boring and re-ringing if neccessary. Far better to be introducing more fuel than necessary than not enough in a 2-stroke. When you say ""engines"" in plural depending on what they are and what they a pushing a little over 1 MPG may not be that unreasonable. Is the boat running fine other than seeming to be gas hog it may just be the nature of twin 2-strokes pushing a heavy boat.",Call your local u-haul see if they have an axle for your trailer? +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???","That fuel consumption seems normal.10% of displacement of engine is the ball park figure of fuel used, Computes to 11 gallons a hour at 3/4 throttle.Steve pull plugs and inspect,are they fouling?They should be light tan in color.","That fuel consumption seems normal.10% of displacement of engine is the ball park figure of fuel used, Computes to 11 gallons a hour at 3/4 throttle.Steve pull plugs and inspect,are they fouling?They should be light tan in color.","Have done a Compression test around 110 ? 22 yr old motor is this acceptable ? Yeh will do head gasket , but dreading extracting the bolts out of the block, i've heard they snap quite easy any tips ???" +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???","Hi, +The plugs always seem fine, light tan as you say, perhaps I am just being too tight and will have to accept what it is....... 4 strokes here we come! + +I guess that my main query was that considering the altitude, could the jet size be reduced to compensate for the slightly lower oxygen at 3500ft + +but thanks so far for the info","Hi, +The plugs always seem fine, light tan as you say, perhaps I am just being too tight and will have to accept what it is....... 4 strokes here we come! + +I guess that my main query was that considering the altitude, could the jet size be reduced to compensate for the slightly lower oxygen at 3500ft + +but thanks so far for the info","Energy flows into a battery from the alternator.....most alternators (old factory designs) control the voltage (fixed) and allow the current delivered to vary. Say your two batteries are lead-acid (vs one of the newer designs)...the regulator will likely have a voltage set point ~ 14.3 VDC and the current flowing into a battery will vary based on its state of charge....a 'fully charged' battery won't accept much current. + +Now if you have a lead acid battery on one side and say an AGM on the other, then the regulator's set point will only be 'ok' for one of them and the other will likely have issues down the road (this is a 'bad implementation or a bad design')....BTW, newer batttery designs have 'optimal' charging curves and typically need 'newer designed' regulators to produce best performance... + +if you are concerned, then by all means, measure whats going on at each battery (voltage and current)....then you'll know what you have and what to expect. + +A single output charger is like your alternator - multi-bank chargers are pretty cheap nowadays....that expense may make sense...." +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???","Remember one thing about 2-strokes, at low RPM they are pretty much just as efficient as 4 strokes. As RPM increases you get more blow- through of the fuel/air charge being introduced. A 2-stroke fires on every stroke... on the downward stroke ports on the cylinder walls are exposed - one is exhaust and the other is the intake where a pressurized fuel/air charge enters the cylinder slightly later than the exhaust port was exposed (but hasn't fully closed yet). The higher the RPM, the more fresh fuel/air mix that blows out with the exhaust just before the exhaust port is fully closed by the cylinder travel. If you want better gas mileage - cut back on the speed and run at just enough RPMs to maintain the boat on level plane. At high rpm's the amount of blow-through can get pretty substantial. I can't remember the percentages but at WOT I thought it could be about 20% of the fuel is going out with the exhaust instead of being combusted.","Remember one thing about 2-strokes, at low RPM they are pretty much just as efficient as 4 strokes. As RPM increases you get more blow- through of the fuel/air charge being introduced. A 2-stroke fires on every stroke... on the downward stroke ports on the cylinder walls are exposed - one is exhaust and the other is the intake where a pressurized fuel/air charge enters the cylinder slightly later than the exhaust port was exposed (but hasn't fully closed yet). The higher the RPM, the more fresh fuel/air mix that blows out with the exhaust just before the exhaust port is fully closed by the cylinder travel. If you want better gas mileage - cut back on the speed and run at just enough RPMs to maintain the boat on level plane. At high rpm's the amount of blow-through can get pretty substantial. I can't remember the percentages but at WOT I thought it could be about 20% of the fuel is going out with the exhaust instead of being combusted.","Call your Yamaha dealer and get the spec on the air screw....it is not in the service manual. +Drain some fuel into a glass container and see if you have water in the fuel." +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???","rule of thump for a properly running 2 stroke at wot...10% of horse power per hour...a 55 should use 5.5 gallons per hour.. + +forget saving any gas money going to a 4 stroke....a 4 stroke rated at 6k rpm and run at 5.5k rpm is a gas hog..to get any kind of efficiency out of a 4 stroke it needs to be run at 4k or 4.5k...and then its no better than a 2 stroke..salesmen lie... + +keep in mind another thing..a 2 stroke engine is built to run at top end or near it..and if it is maintained it will do it for many years...I am currently running a 4stroke and if I did that I would have a pile of expensive junk in 3 years..just my opinion on this last statement...","rule of thump for a properly running 2 stroke at wot...10% of horse power per hour...a 55 should use 5.5 gallons per hour.. + +forget saving any gas money going to a 4 stroke....a 4 stroke rated at 6k rpm and run at 5.5k rpm is a gas hog..to get any kind of efficiency out of a 4 stroke it needs to be run at 4k or 4.5k...and then its no better than a 2 stroke..salesmen lie... + +keep in mind another thing..a 2 stroke engine is built to run at top end or near it..and if it is maintained it will do it for many years...I am currently running a 4stroke and if I did that I would have a pile of expensive junk in 3 years..just my opinion on this last statement...","snp1973 said: + + + + Ok so it's been a long process, getting on the service call schedule for a marina during the boating season. It was in fact running on 2 of the 3 cylinders. The shop cleaned the carburetors and installed a new fuel pump. It's running perfectly, now. I learned a few things in the process and am thankful for the input I received here. + +Click to expand... + +\ + +Glad it's running but not glad to hear you lost so much boating time waiting for Yamaha Mafia Service and that they sold you a new fuel pump you probably didn't need if I were to guess. At this stage, who knows? I won't even ask what the bill was as I know it was a big bill but, then again, it's your parent's boat, you don't have time to wrench on it yourself as you make your $ flying jets and under those circumstances it's best to just throw some money at it, get it fixed, and know mom and dad can take the boat out and not worry about it if they chose. The Yamaha Service Mafia has to make a living too (although we do our best here to see to it they don't eat steak for dinner every night as most of us don't). Now go have fun with family and friends between legs!" +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???","I will say... I had my 2-stroke days with the most HP I could hang on the back of the smallest, fastest boat I could find. That fun but these days I'm happy with my 4-stroke F115 on a 19' boat rated for 150 Max HP. I cruise at 4200-4400 RPM (in the sweet spot around 24-25 MPH) and enjoy almost 5 MPG. At WOT it will do about 38-39 MPH at 5900-6000 RPM depending on load but,let's be serious, how often can you find water that you really want to be running 40MPH+ unless you boat on a distant inland lake or early on a sunday morning? + +Furthermore, I don't care that my Yamaha Tech claims a 4-stroke can run all day at 5000-5500 and ""loves it"". I can HEAR how hard that engine is running when all those valves in the OHC are screaming. Outboard engines are expensive and they are under great stress ALL THE TIME when running. Unlike a 4-CYL car rolling down the highway at 60MPH turning 3,000 RPM and getting 30 MPG, at WOT I'll get maybe 3.5 MPG and see 38 MPH. Running a boat is like driving a car up Mount Everest ALL THE TIME as far as the engine is concerned. Lift you foot from the gas peddal in your car and you can coast another 3 miles... pull the throttle back on your boat and you come to a STOP. Long story short... BABY YOUR OUTBOARD IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE SAME HOURS THE COMMERCIAL FISHERMAN GET OUT OF THEIRS! 4-strokes will last for 1000's of hours if you don't abuse them the way you did the old 2-strokes that could handle those high RPM's all day long.","I will say... I had my 2-stroke days with the most HP I could hang on the back of the smallest, fastest boat I could find. That fun but these days I'm happy with my 4-stroke F115 on a 19' boat rated for 150 Max HP. I cruise at 4200-4400 RPM (in the sweet spot around 24-25 MPH) and enjoy almost 5 MPG. At WOT it will do about 38-39 MPH at 5900-6000 RPM depending on load but,let's be serious, how often can you find water that you really want to be running 40MPH+ unless you boat on a distant inland lake or early on a sunday morning? + +Furthermore, I don't care that my Yamaha Tech claims a 4-stroke can run all day at 5000-5500 and ""loves it"". I can HEAR how hard that engine is running when all those valves in the OHC are screaming. Outboard engines are expensive and they are under great stress ALL THE TIME when running. Unlike a 4-CYL car rolling down the highway at 60MPH turning 3,000 RPM and getting 30 MPG, at WOT I'll get maybe 3.5 MPG and see 38 MPH. Running a boat is like driving a car up Mount Everest ALL THE TIME as far as the engine is concerned. Lift you foot from the gas peddal in your car and you can coast another 3 miles... pull the throttle back on your boat and you come to a STOP. Long story short... BABY YOUR OUTBOARD IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE SAME HOURS THE COMMERCIAL FISHERMAN GET OUT OF THEIRS! 4-strokes will last for 1000's of hours if you don't abuse them the way you did the old 2-strokes that could handle those high RPM's all day long.","crankbait said: + + + + as helpful as this appears......I called. I just recently tried donating a primo bayliner that many people would kill for. the wild card here is......the value of the boat MUST greatly EXCEED their cost to come and get it and to sell it. so basically, they want a new boat. the splash looks nice......but....... + +unfortunately the various charities snubbed their noses at me........first call to my marina......the owner himself showed up. + +Click to expand... + + + +That is not a true statement. That Charity Boats funding goes to the Giving Center which is an IRS approved 501(c)3 non-profit charity. All of my tax documents reflected that information." +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???",Papyson i thought steve had 2 motors my bad 2x5.5 =11,Papyson i thought steve had 2 motors my bad 2x5.5 =11,"LOL !!! Well , im starting to think its water in my gas that probably formed a bit of gel in the carb ! My fault is definitly NOT heat related !!! I took it out just now for one last test before throwing cash around , and came to the conclusion that it's carb related !!! It did the ruff idle again and I simply throttled down and back up very very slowly and bingo it goes again !!! So I added a bit of StaBill in the tank , but worst case scenario , Ill just clean the carb again !!! But I will defenitly add a can of seafoam !!! I will keep updating my progress when I confirm 100 % !!! And maybe next summer I'll invest in the carb to boost it up to a 15 hp !!! I dont know why they bothered on Under carbing such a nice motor , The upgraded carb is 380 $ , Maybe strap a Holly double pumper on the thing !!! And it definatly is a Yamaha motor !!! In amazon type f15 coil !!! Yamaha , Parsun comes up !!! Same Same thing !!! And super gas from now on !!!" +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???",reread and think you may be right...if so my bad...,reread and think you may be right...if so my bad...,"I would be very careful pouring foam with the deck laid on an already, I have seen some boats with the floor buckled from the foam." +"Hi, Im new here, I use my boat at approx 3500ft and I was wondering if it would be worth re jetting the carbs. It EATS fuel normally, I have played with the props, trim, alignment etc and I cant think of anything else to help. Any suggestions ???","This is all good and interesting stuff, it looks like I will stay as I am for now +My boat is a 21ft glass ""canoe"", made by Panga possibly from Phillipines? A bunch of them were imported here just after the Asian tsunami for whatever reason......... +But its a good machine and it takes us fishing which is dwindling due to overfishing by so called local fishermen who hunt with undersized nets and take everything that they can find. We trawl for Nile Perch and nowadays we are lucky to come back with 2 or 3 fish around 17 pounds. +The old boys used to stop fishing when the boat was gunwhale low in the water! + +Happy days!","This is all good and interesting stuff, it looks like I will stay as I am for now +My boat is a 21ft glass ""canoe"", made by Panga possibly from Phillipines? A bunch of them were imported here just after the Asian tsunami for whatever reason......... +But its a good machine and it takes us fishing which is dwindling due to overfishing by so called local fishermen who hunt with undersized nets and take everything that they can find. We trawl for Nile Perch and nowadays we are lucky to come back with 2 or 3 fish around 17 pounds. +The old boys used to stop fishing when the boat was gunwhale low in the water! + +Happy days!",A cordless 1/4 drive impact driver makes disassembly alot easier just get a socket adaptor. +"Hello, I just purchased my first Yamaha outboard (always had Mercury) and first 4-stroke! I need some maintenance guidance. First off, its a 2003 4-stroke 25hp short shaft tiller handle (F25ESHC). + +What type of oil and filter does this motor require? +How much oil does it require? +What type of lower unit gear oil? +Spark plugs look good, but ill probably change them out too. + +Is there anything else I need to check/change? Because its going to be used a lot during duck season + +Thanks!","Congrats on your purchase. A + +As the outboard is used andyou don't know how it has been maintained - I would replace the thermostat. Then pull the lower gearcase and check the water pump impeller, housingand plate. If the impeller, housing and plate all look good, (no scuffs, nicks,grooves or signs of wear in anything) I'd still replace the impeller. I'dreplace the fuel filter. I'd change the engine oil... For engine oil I runMobile 1 Full Synthetic (available at Walmart in a 5 QT jug) in either 10W30 or10W40. If always running in warmer weather and water go with 10W40, otherwise,go with 10W30. I see no need to waste $ on Yamaha's ""Yamalube"" engineoil or Yamaha's ""Ring Free"" additive. If the spark plugs look goodthere's no need to change them unless you want to... If it's running smooth, noneed to change in my opinion. I'd change the lower unit gear lube. OB gearcase lubeis pretty much all the same so any marine outboard gearcase lube will be justfine. Check the sacrificial Zincs on the engine... If they are chalky-white clean all thechalky white off of them with a stiff wire brush until you are back down to grey Zinc.When you gas it up for the 1st few times, run Seafoam fuel treatment &fuel system cleaner (available at any autopart store) at the recommended ordouble dosage for a few tank fulls and then run Marine Sta-Bil (the greenvariety) fuel additive ALL THE TIME EVERY TIME YOU FILL THE TANK as I do. If atall possible and if it is available close by, only run 100% gasoline and steerclear of 10% ethanol blended gas that is sold at 99% of auto gas stations. Askaround and see if there is a station or marina close to you that sells 100%gas. It costs a bit more but after being inside and out of my engine severaltimes dealing with ethanol created gumming, clogs, etc. I'll never run ethanolblended fuel again if 100% gasd is available as I'd rather be having fun than +wrenching on my engine. Thermostats, lubricants, fuel filters, water pumpimpellers, fuel additives and 100% gasoline are all cheap... A new outboard i***PENSIVE. Flush the engine with fresh water and hose down the exterior afterevery use if you run it in salt water. When running try to run at a reasonableRPM 4000-4500 most of the time when cruising (not full throttle like we all didwith the 2-strokes that can run all day at WOT and think nothing of it). Onevery trip, do feel free to run WOT for 5 Min or so generate some heat, helpburn away carbon deposits, and keep the rings from ""seating in"" to aset RPM operating range. Properly maintained and not abused, a 4-stroke Yamahawill run for 1000's of hours. + +If you go to Simyamaha's you can bring up schematics on your specific engine and order all necessary parts which is where I order my parts from.","Congrats on your purchase. A + +As the outboard is used andyou don't know how it has been maintained - I would replace the thermostat. Then pull the lower gearcase and check the water pump impeller, housingand plate. If the impeller, housing and plate all look good, (no scuffs, nicks,grooves or signs of wear in anything) I'd still replace the impeller. I'dreplace the fuel filter. I'd change the engine oil... For engine oil I runMobile 1 Full Synthetic (available at Walmart in a 5 QT jug) in either 10W30 or10W40. If always running in warmer weather and water go with 10W40, otherwise,go with 10W30. I see no need to waste $ on Yamaha's ""Yamalube"" engineoil or Yamaha's ""Ring Free"" additive. If the spark plugs look goodthere's no need to change them unless you want to... If it's running smooth, noneed to change in my opinion. I'd change the lower unit gear lube. OB gearcase lubeis pretty much all the same so any marine outboard gearcase lube will be justfine. Check the sacrificial Zincs on the engine... If they are chalky-white clean all thechalky white off of them with a stiff wire brush until you are back down to grey Zinc.When you gas it up for the 1st few times, run Seafoam fuel treatment &fuel system cleaner (available at any autopart store) at the recommended ordouble dosage for a few tank fulls and then run Marine Sta-Bil (the greenvariety) fuel additive ALL THE TIME EVERY TIME YOU FILL THE TANK as I do. If atall possible and if it is available close by, only run 100% gasoline and steerclear of 10% ethanol blended gas that is sold at 99% of auto gas stations. Askaround and see if there is a station or marina close to you that sells 100%gas. It costs a bit more but after being inside and out of my engine severaltimes dealing with ethanol created gumming, clogs, etc. I'll never run ethanolblended fuel again if 100% gasd is available as I'd rather be having fun than +wrenching on my engine. Thermostats, lubricants, fuel filters, water pumpimpellers, fuel additives and 100% gasoline are all cheap... A new outboard i***PENSIVE. Flush the engine with fresh water and hose down the exterior afterevery use if you run it in salt water. When running try to run at a reasonableRPM 4000-4500 most of the time when cruising (not full throttle like we all didwith the 2-strokes that can run all day at WOT and think nothing of it). Onevery trip, do feel free to run WOT for 5 Min or so generate some heat, helpburn away carbon deposits, and keep the rings from ""seating in"" to aset RPM operating range. Properly maintained and not abused, a 4-stroke Yamahawill run for 1000's of hours. + +If you go to Simyamaha's you can bring up schematics on your specific engine and order all necessary parts which is where I order my parts from.","I have found the issue +https://instagram.com/p/BKqy-P9AGxS/ +this connection from the pump is most likely the culprit, the wire that connects to it from the switch has good power to it, just checked it, so now the problem is either that plug, or the pump itself. I will just cut the connections off and just splice the wires together and see if they work. Will that work just fine? Without hazards? And I don't think it's at the drain hole, it's on the top on the other side of the livewell. Because I have 3 hoses,1 at the bottom drain, one at the spray nozzle, and one on the other side that's close to the top, it's just a hole, with a hose connected to it running down to the bottom of the boat." +"Hello, I just purchased my first Yamaha outboard (always had Mercury) and first 4-stroke! I need some maintenance guidance. First off, its a 2003 4-stroke 25hp short shaft tiller handle (F25ESHC). + +What type of oil and filter does this motor require? +How much oil does it require? +What type of lower unit gear oil? +Spark plugs look good, but ill probably change them out too. + +Is there anything else I need to check/change? Because its going to be used a lot during duck season + +Thanks!","Wow deepsea21, thanks for all that great info! I did finally find the spec's sheet for my motor and yesterday I changed the motor oil with 10w30, new oil filter, and changed out the lower unit gear lube. I'm going to order a new thermostat and impeller today, but I'm going to check them to make sure they are in good working order before I take it out this afternoon for a test drive. I do have a gas station on the way to the lake that has ethanol free gas, and I will grab a bottle of seafoam too (love that stuff)... Thanks for all the info!","Wow deepsea21, thanks for all that great info! I did finally find the spec's sheet for my motor and yesterday I changed the motor oil with 10w30, new oil filter, and changed out the lower unit gear lube. I'm going to order a new thermostat and impeller today, but I'm going to check them to make sure they are in good working order before I take it out this afternoon for a test drive. I do have a gas station on the way to the lake that has ethanol free gas, and I will grab a bottle of seafoam too (love that stuff)... Thanks for all the info!","As you mentioned you bought the motor brand new... Contact the dealer and tell them you are not sure how this prop will perform given your load and you want to take it out and run it with that prop to see what happens or tell them they can take the boat and run it and see what happens. The dealer who sold you that engine obviously want's to make you happy (and service it for years to come). They will usually tell you to run the boat, don't ding the prop, and if stock performance isn't where is should be they'll replace it with another free of charge until you find the correct prop for your application. A quality dealer will let you swap props over and over until you find the right one for your boat. It's either that or they can spend their time trying different props to reach the correct WOT RPM. They have better things to do than that." +"Hello, I just purchased my first Yamaha outboard (always had Mercury) and first 4-stroke! I need some maintenance guidance. First off, its a 2003 4-stroke 25hp short shaft tiller handle (F25ESHC). + +What type of oil and filter does this motor require? +How much oil does it require? +What type of lower unit gear oil? +Spark plugs look good, but ill probably change them out too. + +Is there anything else I need to check/change? Because its going to be used a lot during duck season + +Thanks!","Sounds like you are well on your way already! Remember when changing the impeller to ""twist"" it down into the housing in the proper direction so the splines are bent in the same direction as the one you removed. I replace my thermostat and impeller every 3 years whether they need it or not but I don't put that many hours on my engine every year. I replace the Under cowling fuel filter every 2 years as they can and do break down which results in filter fibers working their way to the HP fuel pump filter in the VST tank (a nightmare to get to on my 2002 F115). Best thing I heard is you have access to 100% gasoline. Run that with marine green sta-bil all the time and 95% of the fuel related problems others post on this forum will not be your problems. When storing the OB off season... put it to bed ""wet"". Don't drain fuel from anything in the engine or run it out of fuel like we did with the old 2 strokes. I would recommend before putting away for the season purchasing ""Fluid Film"" spray lubricant. Spray a light coating on EVERYTHING under the cowling. It is safe for all metals, wiring, etc. and provides a great degree of corrosion protection. Happy Hunting & Have Fun!","Sounds like you are well on your way already! Remember when changing the impeller to ""twist"" it down into the housing in the proper direction so the splines are bent in the same direction as the one you removed. I replace my thermostat and impeller every 3 years whether they need it or not but I don't put that many hours on my engine every year. I replace the Under cowling fuel filter every 2 years as they can and do break down which results in filter fibers working their way to the HP fuel pump filter in the VST tank (a nightmare to get to on my 2002 F115). Best thing I heard is you have access to 100% gasoline. Run that with marine green sta-bil all the time and 95% of the fuel related problems others post on this forum will not be your problems. When storing the OB off season... put it to bed ""wet"". Don't drain fuel from anything in the engine or run it out of fuel like we did with the old 2 strokes. I would recommend before putting away for the season purchasing ""Fluid Film"" spray lubricant. Spray a light coating on EVERYTHING under the cowling. It is safe for all metals, wiring, etc. and provides a great degree of corrosion protection. Happy Hunting & Have Fun!","There shouldn't be any voltage drop with AC. It's likely you have bad connection somewhere. You can use extension cords but use the heavy duty ones that are rated (UL) for outdoor use. They make these waterproof boxes that you use for the connection between cords, so if you are using 2 x 100"" and one 50' you'll want to get a few for those connections so that water won't get in the plugs. +I ran over 200 feet out to my pond for the bubblers and that's what I used. 5 years so far no issues. + +In 1/60 of a second, the speed of the electricity flows through that wire roughly 5 million meters, so your 225 feet is not even a thing." +"I posted a couple months ago about a low speed and idle issue where the motor would stumble with the hood on but if I removed the hood the engine would run fine. +I removed the lower cowling and ran the motor in water for back pressure and couldn't figure out where the air I was feeling blowing from the exhaust was. After deeper investigation I found a blowout hole in the exhaust guide (PN:6G5-41137-11-CA at http://www.marineengine.com/parts/yamaha-outboard-parts/2004/200/SX200TXRC/620349640023) +With the hood on I covered the hole with a rag and the engine ran fine, when I removed the rag, in second the engine stumbled. This doesnt look right and some Interwebz searching shows this to be a fault. +Im thinking two options: +1-pull powerhead and replace exhaust guide +2-pull powerhead and tig weld plate over hole to seal. +thoughts?",When you get it apart you will probably find that it is not repairable.,When you get it apart you will probably find that it is not repairable.,"Things I have seen that will do this... + + Crummy battery switch ( my experience is that the ""Blue Sea"" ones are more reliable than the ""round ones"") . + + Poor quality ground connection to start battery. This cable should be a single marine grade cable directly from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine block. Given labor involved, I'd just change this cable out for a new marine grade one making sure it is a direct connection from the engine block to the start battery and that the connections are CLEAN and tight...BTW... don't use wing nuts on the battery connection. + +Check the positive cables while you are at it." +"Just like the title says. Anyways I bought a Yamaha service manual, but am wondering what the most common causes of these issues are to avoid wasting time. I get the impression the oil level sensor is causing the alarm, but the book doesn't say how to test it. Would that cause a no spark condition as a built in safety precaution for the motor? Thanks!","Pretty sure it still would start. Im trouble shooting a simliar issue 1990 130ELTD 2stroke with constant alarm on key. Except mines starts. + +I attached a picture of the testing method for my motor it is probably the same for yours.","Pretty sure it still would start. Im trouble shooting a simliar issue 1990 130ELTD 2stroke with constant alarm on key. Except mines starts. + +I attached a picture of the testing method for my motor it is probably the same for yours.","psp1 said: + + + + Anyone had this issue ? The engine will only start cold if I use starter fluid or starts faster if I put my finger over ISC valve after it starts it runs and starts fine all day the next morning it won't start. I replaced the ISC valve didn't help I have purchased Yamaha software all test show normal when running my #1 code 29 intake pressure sensor #2 code 13 pulser coil #3 code 23 intake temp sensor . I just wondered if anyone else has had this and what was the outcome sensors or computer? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks I will check it again a little closer after work today" +"Just like the title says. Anyways I bought a Yamaha service manual, but am wondering what the most common causes of these issues are to avoid wasting time. I get the impression the oil level sensor is causing the alarm, but the book doesn't say how to test it. Would that cause a no spark condition as a built in safety precaution for the motor? Thanks!","I've never heard of a faulty oil level sensor causeing a no spark situation. Does the starter engage when you key to ""start"" position? Have you checked all fuses including the fuses in the engine?","I've never heard of a faulty oil level sensor causeing a no spark situation. Does the starter engage when you key to ""start"" position? Have you checked all fuses including the fuses in the engine?","OR, the ground wire has become disconnected. More likely what Papyson said." +"Just like the title says. Anyways I bought a Yamaha service manual, but am wondering what the most common causes of these issues are to avoid wasting time. I get the impression the oil level sensor is causing the alarm, but the book doesn't say how to test it. Would that cause a no spark condition as a built in safety precaution for the motor? Thanks!","Cool, thanks, this wasn't in the Seloc book I bought.","Cool, thanks, this wasn't in the Seloc book I bought.","Purchase ""Tow Boat US"" insurance." +"Just like the title says. Anyways I bought a Yamaha service manual, but am wondering what the most common causes of these issues are to avoid wasting time. I get the impression the oil level sensor is causing the alarm, but the book doesn't say how to test it. Would that cause a no spark condition as a built in safety precaution for the motor? Thanks!","Yeah it cranks, I wasn't aware so far that there were any fuses in the motor :O","Yeah it cranks, I wasn't aware so far that there were any fuses in the motor :O","Did you run it for a long time while the buzzer was sounding....No you shut it down. Addressed the issue and it works as it should... The buzzer is there to alert you that there is a problem. If you ignore the buzzer and continue to use the engine then you would have done damage. + +You did the right thing." +I have heard the sole difference between these two motors is the carbs. Anyone know if this is true or not?,"It wouldn't surprise me. I ran a Suzuki 75 2-stroke for several years on my prior boat and the only difference between it and the 85 was the carbs. However, the cost to replace the 3 carbs with the 85HP versions wasn't worth it when it came to $'s per HP gained. I've also no idea if the ECU in that engine would have needed to swapped out or re-flashed to work with the new carbs. Maybe someone else here can comment.","It wouldn't surprise me. I ran a Suzuki 75 2-stroke for several years on my prior boat and the only difference between it and the 85 was the carbs. However, the cost to replace the 3 carbs with the 85HP versions wasn't worth it when it came to $'s per HP gained. I've also no idea if the ECU in that engine would have needed to swapped out or re-flashed to work with the new carbs. Maybe someone else here can comment.",LIT-18616-02-03 +I have heard the sole difference between these two motors is the carbs. Anyone know if this is true or not?,"deepsea21 said: + + + + It wouldn't surprise me. I ran a Suzuki 75 2-stroke for several years on my prior boat and the only difference between it and the 85 was the carbs. However, the cost to replace the 3 carbs with the 85HP versions wasn't worth it when it came to $'s per HP gained. I've also no idea if the ECU in that engine would have needed to swapped out or re-flashed to work with the new carbs. Maybe someone else here can comment. + +Click to expand... + + +No ECU on mine.. I've found carbs on ebay from an '84 that I think are the same, just didn't want to buy them before confirming they will work and are all that's needed. Read somewhere the silencer may be undersized.","deepsea21 said: + + + + It wouldn't surprise me. I ran a Suzuki 75 2-stroke for several years on my prior boat and the only difference between it and the 85 was the carbs. However, the cost to replace the 3 carbs with the 85HP versions wasn't worth it when it came to $'s per HP gained. I've also no idea if the ECU in that engine would have needed to swapped out or re-flashed to work with the new carbs. Maybe someone else here can comment. + +Click to expand... + + +No ECU on mine.. I've found carbs on ebay from an '84 that I think are the same, just didn't want to buy them before confirming they will work and are all that's needed. Read somewhere the silencer may be undersized.",Hundred bucks. +"History 2006 Polar 2300cc w/ twin F150s sold new 2010, I bought in 2013 with 10 hrs on motors. AT 20 hours local dealer winterized replaced both balancers under warranty changed oil and at my request replaced water pumps as they were 7years old. Now has 42 hours and suddenly starboard overtemp alarm. Checked and starboard 203F and port 195F. Idled home, check water intakes all fine. Installed water pressure sensors and starboard was less than half of port. drive shafts could not be turned by hand pump casing warped and binding on shaft. complete rebuild and shafts turn vey nicely. Water pump casings had partially melted blocking some of the output ports. replaced thermostats and bypass valves. water jacket looked very clean. I think previous own had run dry and dealer just put in new impeller. Now 1.5ps at idle and 16-18psi at speed. but 1 mile run at 4000rpm produces 198f o starboard and 195f on port. thermostats are 140f. since everything has been replaced and both having problems still any ideas",Engine compression test first! Engine has been overheated.,Engine compression test first! Engine has been overheated.,"Can you give a bit more information on this one? What model engine is it? By cable feeding the motor are you referring to the batter lead or wires from the kill switch? Where are you measuring when you get the 20V reading? It is generally the job or a regulator to keep the charging voltage to a safe level. Your motor may not have one installed. + +Stuart" +"History 2006 Polar 2300cc w/ twin F150s sold new 2010, I bought in 2013 with 10 hrs on motors. AT 20 hours local dealer winterized replaced both balancers under warranty changed oil and at my request replaced water pumps as they were 7years old. Now has 42 hours and suddenly starboard overtemp alarm. Checked and starboard 203F and port 195F. Idled home, check water intakes all fine. Installed water pressure sensors and starboard was less than half of port. drive shafts could not be turned by hand pump casing warped and binding on shaft. complete rebuild and shafts turn vey nicely. Water pump casings had partially melted blocking some of the output ports. replaced thermostats and bypass valves. water jacket looked very clean. I think previous own had run dry and dealer just put in new impeller. Now 1.5ps at idle and 16-18psi at speed. but 1 mile run at 4000rpm produces 198f o starboard and 195f on port. thermostats are 140f. since everything has been replaced and both having problems still any ideas",What is the source of your 198 starboard and 195 port temp readings?,What is the source of your 198 starboard and 195 port temp readings?,"Yikes!! + +Ok, do you know where said valves are located? I was studying the diagram and couldnt locate them......." +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.","Evidently I deleted the first paragraph: + +The motor is a 2005 Yamaha f90 4stroke with about 500 hours on it.","Evidently I deleted the first paragraph: + +The motor is a 2005 Yamaha f90 4stroke with about 500 hours on it.","I agree 300hp is a bit optimistic. I was thinking... our boat originally came with Chrysler 318's (last owner put the Crusader gas hogs in). Not sure what the HP rating was on those, but guessing in the 180-200 range?? Going on that figure of 1/3-1/2, a couple 100hp motors would (at first guess) be capable of respectable cruising speeds. On that same first guess, I would think two 75's would at least get us the cruising speed we are at now. That is, *IF* that 1/3-1/2hp figure is accurate. + +So much guessing.... would hate to purchase motors and find out it is not enough. Lots of research to be done." +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.","Try pumping the fuel bulb until you feel pressure. Remove the fuel line to the fuel rail and have someone stand back there holding the fuel line over a mason jar or something. Then key the ignition only to the run position (not the start position) - when the HP fuel pump kicks on for those three seconds you should get a 3 second squirt out of that fuel line. That will tell you if you're getting fuel to the rail. If you're getting fuel to the rail, try putting the fuel line back on the rail again, re-pump the fuel bulb to resistance and then key the the ignition to the run position (not start) again to get that 3-second pressure build. Key it several times while someone holds a small screwdriver down in the schrader valve on the top of the fuel rail to open it (looks just like the air fill valve on a tire) and see if with a few keyings of the ignition and squeezes of the fuel bulb you get fuel to come out of that schrader valve under pressure when someone is holding it open. That will tell you if your getting fuel up through the rail to the top and will also purge all air/bubbles that may be in their.","Try pumping the fuel bulb until you feel pressure. Remove the fuel line to the fuel rail and have someone stand back there holding the fuel line over a mason jar or something. Then key the ignition only to the run position (not the start position) - when the HP fuel pump kicks on for those three seconds you should get a 3 second squirt out of that fuel line. That will tell you if you're getting fuel to the rail. If you're getting fuel to the rail, try putting the fuel line back on the rail again, re-pump the fuel bulb to resistance and then key the the ignition to the run position (not start) again to get that 3-second pressure build. Key it several times while someone holds a small screwdriver down in the schrader valve on the top of the fuel rail to open it (looks just like the air fill valve on a tire) and see if with a few keyings of the ignition and squeezes of the fuel bulb you get fuel to come out of that schrader valve under pressure when someone is holding it open. That will tell you if your getting fuel up through the rail to the top and will also purge all air/bubbles that may be in their.","you might also consider ""PB Blaster"", diesel oil, and ""KANO KROIL""...." +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.","Many thanks deepsea 21, I will try that tomorrow. If by chance there is no fuel getting to the vst as I suspect, what could cause the blockage upstream or downstream from the vst?","Many thanks deepsea 21, I will try that tomorrow. If by chance there is no fuel getting to the vst as I suspect, what could cause the blockage upstream or downstream from the vst?",877-845-8750 that is jenson marine tech support number...they give advice....i once had a sony on my boat that had two power cables with it...one for a 12volt outlet and one for a 120 outlet...you could not screw up as the 12volt outlet had a ungrounded type receptacle(2 holes) and the 120 had a regular 3 hole grounded receptacle even though it didnt need the ground...it also had a switch in the back to go from external to rabbit ears antenna...dont know if they still build one like that or not.. +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.","If you find you're getting fuel to the rail and up the rail to the schrader valve with hand pumping and keying the ignition to run the HP fuel pump my next guess would be the diaphram in the mechanical low pressure fuel pump has failed. Usually when that starts to go you'll find the engine starts ""making oil"" as fuel starts gradually flowing past teh diaphram into the crankcase. If the engine is ""making oil"" that's the #1 cause. It's on the back of the engine with 3 screws in a triangle. You can take it apart and check that diaphram and if it's bad you can replace just the diaphram - no need to replace the entire assembly. IF you go to SIMYAMAHA's website and look at the Fuel 1 diagram for your engine it's part #19.","If you find you're getting fuel to the rail and up the rail to the schrader valve with hand pumping and keying the ignition to run the HP fuel pump my next guess would be the diaphram in the mechanical low pressure fuel pump has failed. Usually when that starts to go you'll find the engine starts ""making oil"" as fuel starts gradually flowing past teh diaphram into the crankcase. If the engine is ""making oil"" that's the #1 cause. It's on the back of the engine with 3 screws in a triangle. You can take it apart and check that diaphram and if it's bad you can replace just the diaphram - no need to replace the entire assembly. IF you go to SIMYAMAHA's website and look at the Fuel 1 diagram for your engine it's part #19.","Name of the part you inquired about is the Prime Starter. It's actuated by 2 solenoids, A & B. The prime starter is specific for engine years of 1990-1993, and it is specific to 225hp. + +As far as the model, since the engine uses a carburetor solenoid valve it will be one of the models found in this link: +61A-86120-00-00 YAMAHA SOLENOID VALVE ASY + +If there is an electric fuel pump mounted below the carburetors then it will be known as the V76X model. This model uses the electronic fuel-enrichment solenoid, or ECS." +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.","Deepsea, I've heard of that before and I'll check my oil tonight as well. Wouldn't pumping the fuel primer bulb bypass the low pressure pump (if the low pressure pump had a problem)? The only reason I ask that is on my older honda 4stroke I had the springs in the low pressure pump fail, the only way that motor would run was to pump the bulb. + +I was thinking that since you normally pump the bulb to prime the engine, the route was from the bulb to the fuel filter inside the cowling, then to the low pressure pump then to the high pressure pump and then to the fuel rail. Someone mentioned that there is a needle on that float that may be jammed and I will have to clean it out, I'm not sure how to do that because I haven't seen the needle yet when the vst was open.","Deepsea, I've heard of that before and I'll check my oil tonight as well. Wouldn't pumping the fuel primer bulb bypass the low pressure pump (if the low pressure pump had a problem)? The only reason I ask that is on my older honda 4stroke I had the springs in the low pressure pump fail, the only way that motor would run was to pump the bulb. + +I was thinking that since you normally pump the bulb to prime the engine, the route was from the bulb to the fuel filter inside the cowling, then to the low pressure pump then to the high pressure pump and then to the fuel rail. Someone mentioned that there is a needle on that float that may be jammed and I will have to clean it out, I'm not sure how to do that because I haven't seen the needle yet when the vst was open.","As indicated a 12v charger will not charge 24V, the simple solution will be to add a 4 position switch 1, 2, both and off between the 2 battery 24V setup, both when running your trolling motor, and then 1 or 2 to charge the batteries independently, that makes it simple you don't have to disconnect batteries to charge." +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.","I believe hand-pumping the fuel bulb should push fuel all the way through to the VST. On my F115 the float and needle valve is up inside the top cover of the VST that you took off. You may have missed it because when you take the cover off your natural instinct is to look down in the bowl where the HP fuel pump & filter is. My VST is an absolute PITA to get to on the F115 - first time took me about 3 hours to get to, second time about 1 1/2 - 2 hours once I found the right combination of extensions, sockets and ratchets to reach an absolute nightmare lower bolt on the intake. I was almost tempted to leave that bolt out when I put it all back together but, of course, I didn't. + +Check out the parts diagram online for your model - It's under Fuel Injection Pump 1 - you'll see the little pyramid kind of shaped float shown up in the top cover of the VST and the needle valve it controls. It's possible the needle valve got stuck up and the orifice that it opens and closes got gummed up shut... especially if you are running fuel with ethanol in it and not using a marine fuel stabilizer ALL THE TIME. + +I personally got so sick of fixing ethanol fuel problems that I now run only 100% gas even at the premium cost and I still add green marine Sta-Bil ALL THE TIME. My time off is limited so these days I prefer to spend it on the water instead of under the cowling every year. For the few extra bucks running 100% gas costs - it's a no brainer for me. If the hand pumping and keying can't deliver fuel to the rail and it's not making it into the VST tank that's another place to look. If it comes to that take that float assembly apart, pull the needle valve, and break out the jet-spray carb cleaner while cleaning the littel rubber tip on the top of that needle valve and the receiver where it sits up into in the float-up closed position.","I believe hand-pumping the fuel bulb should push fuel all the way through to the VST. On my F115 the float and needle valve is up inside the top cover of the VST that you took off. You may have missed it because when you take the cover off your natural instinct is to look down in the bowl where the HP fuel pump & filter is. My VST is an absolute PITA to get to on the F115 - first time took me about 3 hours to get to, second time about 1 1/2 - 2 hours once I found the right combination of extensions, sockets and ratchets to reach an absolute nightmare lower bolt on the intake. I was almost tempted to leave that bolt out when I put it all back together but, of course, I didn't. + +Check out the parts diagram online for your model - It's under Fuel Injection Pump 1 - you'll see the little pyramid kind of shaped float shown up in the top cover of the VST and the needle valve it controls. It's possible the needle valve got stuck up and the orifice that it opens and closes got gummed up shut... especially if you are running fuel with ethanol in it and not using a marine fuel stabilizer ALL THE TIME. + +I personally got so sick of fixing ethanol fuel problems that I now run only 100% gas even at the premium cost and I still add green marine Sta-Bil ALL THE TIME. My time off is limited so these days I prefer to spend it on the water instead of under the cowling every year. For the few extra bucks running 100% gas costs - it's a no brainer for me. If the hand pumping and keying can't deliver fuel to the rail and it's not making it into the VST tank that's another place to look. If it comes to that take that float assembly apart, pull the needle valve, and break out the jet-spray carb cleaner while cleaning the littel rubber tip on the top of that needle valve and the receiver where it sits up into in the float-up closed position.",I was talking about a conventional Yamaha tachometer. Sounds like you might have a Command Link tachometer since you mention the multi-hub. There are several different wiring configurations that can be used. Usually a harness from the motor to a hub. Power to the hub from the key switch. Harness connecting the tachometer to the hub. +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.","And obviously, if/when you take that float and needle valve apart, do it over a large pan, white towel or something - you don't want some of those little parts to go flying off into nowhere you also own a VERY sensitive metal detector! Let me know how it goes.","And obviously, if/when you take that float and needle valve apart, do it over a large pan, white towel or something - you don't want some of those little parts to go flying off into nowhere you also own a VERY sensitive metal detector! Let me know how it goes.",Plastic tank should be removed for repair. It can be welded up good as new. +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.","Thanks deepsea. It looks like I'm narrowing it down, so I took off the intake silencer again and it looked like I had kinked a fuel hose. Once I moved it the VST is now getting gas. + +The new aftermarket fuel pump however is not moving the gas to the fuel rail. I can hear the pump fire up (I couldn't hear the old pump fire at all before), but the engine would not start. When I took off the fuel line from the VST going to the fuel rail and turned the key, no gas was moving to the fuel rail. I tried the first click several times and never saw a drop of gas going towards the fuel rail. + +Besides being a dud pump is there anything else I'm missing before I send it back and buy the oem yamaha one?","Thanks deepsea. It looks like I'm narrowing it down, so I took off the intake silencer again and it looked like I had kinked a fuel hose. Once I moved it the VST is now getting gas. + +The new aftermarket fuel pump however is not moving the gas to the fuel rail. I can hear the pump fire up (I couldn't hear the old pump fire at all before), but the engine would not start. When I took off the fuel line from the VST going to the fuel rail and turned the key, no gas was moving to the fuel rail. I tried the first click several times and never saw a drop of gas going towards the fuel rail. + +Besides being a dud pump is there anything else I'm missing before I send it back and buy the oem yamaha one?",105 pound feet. +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.","That VST tank takes a lot of fuel to fill. Pump- pump- pump with fuel bulb or when you have the VST tank off and open, fill it maybe 2/3rds full of fuel before you put it back on. That float and needle valve are at the top of the VST because the HP fuel pump is actually cooled by remaining pretty much submerged in fuel inside. A few pumps of the bulb won't fill the tank high enough in my opinion.","That VST tank takes a lot of fuel to fill. Pump- pump- pump with fuel bulb or when you have the VST tank off and open, fill it maybe 2/3rds full of fuel before you put it back on. That float and needle valve are at the top of the VST because the HP fuel pump is actually cooled by remaining pretty much submerged in fuel inside. A few pumps of the bulb won't fill the tank high enough in my opinion.","Warm it with a propane torch and knock it right into the garbage can. Replace both parts with new, from Yamaha. + +Do not loose the spring washers." +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.","Thanks for all the tips deepsea. It turned out to be my high pressure fuel pump. That aftermarket fuel pump looked great and was well made but obviously something was wrong inside it, I almost wonder now that I'm thinking if they had wired it in reverse or something. I could hear the pump running but it never got gas to the fuel rail. I sent it back and bought the oem yamaha one from iboats, it was about 170. Pump came today and I installed it after work, when I clicked the key in the first position gas poured out of the hose leading to the fuel rail so I was excited. Sure enough once I buttoned that hose down the motor fired right up. Success!! I'm not sure what killed my old pump, it runs on 12v but it might normally run on less on the harness. It might have sucked up something when I was close to running out of gas but I have no idea what could have gotten by the racor and fuel filter and then the vst filter too. + +Many thanks for all your help!! I'm off to chase tuna again this week!","Thanks for all the tips deepsea. It turned out to be my high pressure fuel pump. That aftermarket fuel pump looked great and was well made but obviously something was wrong inside it, I almost wonder now that I'm thinking if they had wired it in reverse or something. I could hear the pump running but it never got gas to the fuel rail. I sent it back and bought the oem yamaha one from iboats, it was about 170. Pump came today and I installed it after work, when I clicked the key in the first position gas poured out of the hose leading to the fuel rail so I was excited. Sure enough once I buttoned that hose down the motor fired right up. Success!! I'm not sure what killed my old pump, it runs on 12v but it might normally run on less on the harness. It might have sucked up something when I was close to running out of gas but I have no idea what could have gotten by the racor and fuel filter and then the vst filter too. + +Many thanks for all your help!! I'm off to chase tuna again this week!","Mix 50:1 fuel/oil in a separate tank ,disconnect the link arm from the pump , pull one oil pipe off at a time where it goes into the block start the motor and move the pump arm fully open by hand while the motor is idling and watch the oil come out the pipe get a container to catch it .do one pipe at a time ." +"So I'm slowly narrowing down my problem. I think I ran out of gas or was very close to it and that might have been the original cause. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump and can hear it fire up on the first click of the ignition for 3 seconds. For some reason the gas is not getting to the vst. + +When I pump the primer bulb the gas is flowing to the low pressure pump but I'm guessing it's not getting into the vst. When I depress the air valve on top and also open up the drain screw on the vst and pump the bulb I see no gas coming out. I will have to take apart the vst again to check this but it seems like no gas is getting into the vst. + +I read about opening up the fuel rail valve, if there is pressure in my fuel rail would that keep the gas from getting into the vst? I thought that float valve inside the vst only shuts the valve when the gas is inside the vst, could that be the problem or is there something I'm missing? + +The fuel primer bulb is okay. +The water separator inside the engine does not have water in it (the red ring is on the bottom) +Originally when I checked continuity on the fuel relay it tested okay. +The low pressure fuel pump should be okay, at any rate from what I'm reading it's mechanical and if I'm pumping the bulb the gas should be filling the vst.",Glad to hear you're running again and $170 sure beats a trip to Yamaha Service. I'll keep in mind that the aftermarket pump you bought presented problems. I remember when I had coils going in my car (V-8 with the coil-on-plug setup). I bought a cheap aftermarket set china for like $40 and the car ran for all of about 2-days before those coiks started to fail. Sent them all back and spent $170 on a set of AC Delco coils (also made in China but obviously to better specs as as I haven't had a problem in 3-4 years now from those). Sometimes we get what we pay for. - Tight lines.,Glad to hear you're running again and $170 sure beats a trip to Yamaha Service. I'll keep in mind that the aftermarket pump you bought presented problems. I remember when I had coils going in my car (V-8 with the coil-on-plug setup). I bought a cheap aftermarket set china for like $40 and the car ran for all of about 2-days before those coiks started to fail. Sent them all back and spent $170 on a set of AC Delco coils (also made in China but obviously to better specs as as I haven't had a problem in 3-4 years now from those). Sometimes we get what we pay for. - Tight lines.,"This is the best advice you will ever get. + +Clean the boat and sell the boat. Sorry. + + Have a professional look at the next one you purchase." +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","Sounds like you've spun the hub. +easy test, remove the prop and borrow one to sea trial. +if no issue, get your prop re -hubbed and you're golden.","Sounds like you've spun the hub. +easy test, remove the prop and borrow one to sea trial. +if no issue, get your prop re -hubbed and you're golden.","Wouldn't it sputter before it killed if it were bad gas? The gas is 3 months old ad I keep the boat in a metal building. Will check the cable throttle tomorrow. Could this be any electrical problem? A friend mentioned that - but I don't see how an electrical problem would affect a running motor. + +Thank y'all, by the way." +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","dark_star said: + + + + Sounds like you've spun the hub. +easy test, remove the prop and borrow one to sea trial. +if no issue, get your prop re -hubbed and you're golden. + +Click to expand... + + +I second Darkstar's response!","dark_star said: + + + + Sounds like you've spun the hub. +easy test, remove the prop and borrow one to sea trial. +if no issue, get your prop re -hubbed and you're golden. + +Click to expand... + + +I second Darkstar's response!",Try Mike at +18638013746 for fuel tank cleaning near Vero. +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","dark_star said: + + + + Sounds like you've spun the hub. +easy test, remove the prop and borrow one to sea trial. +if no issue, get your prop re -hubbed and you're golden. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you, that seems to be the consensus on the forward problem, but could that be causing the reverse issue too. Its a click/grind sound and hit or miss on actually engaging. I'm no expert but was thinking maybe the cable or linkage is out of whack and its not going ""all the way"" into gear. Any thoughts?","dark_star said: + + + + Sounds like you've spun the hub. +easy test, remove the prop and borrow one to sea trial. +if no issue, get your prop re -hubbed and you're golden. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you, that seems to be the consensus on the forward problem, but could that be causing the reverse issue too. Its a click/grind sound and hit or miss on actually engaging. I'm no expert but was thinking maybe the cable or linkage is out of whack and its not going ""all the way"" into gear. Any thoughts?","Spun hub in prop,replace" +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","When shifting into reverse, you need to dump it in quick. +The quicker the shift the less grind you will hear. +mine does the same thing if you try and shift it slowly.","When shifting into reverse, you need to dump it in quick. +The quicker the shift the less grind you will hear. +mine does the same thing if you try and shift it slowly.","Yes, I had the auto center check the battery and it's perfectly fine. No problems with the battery. +What else would cause the low amps not letting the engine get enough spark? I'm stumped!" +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","Nick Moore McCabe said: + + + + Thank you, that seems to be the consensus on the forward problem, but could that be causing the reverse issue too. Its a click/grind sound and hit or miss on actually engaging. I'm no expert but was thinking maybe the cable or linkage is out of whack and its not going ""all the way"" into gear. Any thoughts? + +Click to expand... + + +If a quick shift into reverse doesn't engage it all the time the shift linkage could be lose back at the engine or need adjustment. WIth the cowling off have someone shift from forward to reverse whoile you watch the shift linkage in engine. Only the linkage rod should be moving... if the plastic sleeve that houses the linkage is moving it has come lose from its anchor point. In there. If it hasn't come lose and forward always engages it may need adjusted to offer more travel into reverse gear (at the expense of some travel into forward gear). Somewhere in between is the happy middle that engages both forward and reverse gears without excessive travel of the linkage rod in one direction or the other.","Nick Moore McCabe said: + + + + Thank you, that seems to be the consensus on the forward problem, but could that be causing the reverse issue too. Its a click/grind sound and hit or miss on actually engaging. I'm no expert but was thinking maybe the cable or linkage is out of whack and its not going ""all the way"" into gear. Any thoughts? + +Click to expand... + + +If a quick shift into reverse doesn't engage it all the time the shift linkage could be lose back at the engine or need adjustment. WIth the cowling off have someone shift from forward to reverse whoile you watch the shift linkage in engine. Only the linkage rod should be moving... if the plastic sleeve that houses the linkage is moving it has come lose from its anchor point. In there. If it hasn't come lose and forward always engages it may need adjusted to offer more travel into reverse gear (at the expense of some travel into forward gear). Somewhere in between is the happy middle that engages both forward and reverse gears without excessive travel of the linkage rod in one direction or the other.","Stuart Allen said: + + + + Have you done a compression test on this motor? It is possible that the rings are very worn and fuel is getting past them, it is also possible that the valve guides are worn and fuel is getting up into the rocker cover. Is this was happening though it would undoubtedly be blowing a lot of smoke. The other possibility is that it is leaking from the fuel pump into the rocker cover and draining down into the sump from there. The fuel pump is driving off one of the cam lobes and there will no doubt be a seal between that may have failed. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +No I haven't I'll check on all that thanks for your time." +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","deepsea21 said: + + + + If a quick shift into reverse doesn't engage it all the time the shift linkage could be lose back at the engine or need adjustment. WIth the cowling off have someone shift from forward to reverse whoile you watch the shift linkage in engine. Only the linkage rod should be moving... if the plastic sleeve that houses the linkage is moving it has come lose from its anchor point. In there. If it hasn't come lose and forward always engages it may need adjusted to offer more travel into reverse gear (at the expense of some travel into forward gear). Somewhere in between is the happy middle that engages both forward and reverse gears without excessive travel of the linkage rod in one direction or the other. + +Click to expand... + + +Awesome advice, gonna try this as soon as I get a chance! Thanks","deepsea21 said: + + + + If a quick shift into reverse doesn't engage it all the time the shift linkage could be lose back at the engine or need adjustment. WIth the cowling off have someone shift from forward to reverse whoile you watch the shift linkage in engine. Only the linkage rod should be moving... if the plastic sleeve that houses the linkage is moving it has come lose from its anchor point. In there. If it hasn't come lose and forward always engages it may need adjusted to offer more travel into reverse gear (at the expense of some travel into forward gear). Somewhere in between is the happy middle that engages both forward and reverse gears without excessive travel of the linkage rod in one direction or the other. + +Click to expand... + + +Awesome advice, gonna try this as soon as I get a chance! Thanks",I reckon bad ground. When you tested sensor did you also test its feed? +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","Nick Moore McCabe said: + + + + Awesome advice, gonna try this as soon as I get a chance! Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +That's not to say you haven't spun a hub as well. What you reported in forward gear while underway when putting the throttle to it (loss of power matched with high revs at high throttle) is telling of a spun hub that tends to reveal itself under those conditions. I think you could have 2 probs going on at once... Spun hub as Darkstar mentioned and a gear linkage problem with your reverse gear engagement probs.","Nick Moore McCabe said: + + + + Awesome advice, gonna try this as soon as I get a chance! Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +That's not to say you haven't spun a hub as well. What you reported in forward gear while underway when putting the throttle to it (loss of power matched with high revs at high throttle) is telling of a spun hub that tends to reveal itself under those conditions. I think you could have 2 probs going on at once... Spun hub as Darkstar mentioned and a gear linkage problem with your reverse gear engagement probs.",My bad your engone does not have a tilt tube it takes a special bracket you mount on the transom i will try and post some pics of my 40hp with the same setup. +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","deepsea21 said: + + + + That's not to say you haven't spun a hub as well. What you reported in forward gear while underway when putting the throttle to it (loss of power matched with high revs at high throttle) is telling of a spun hub that tends to reveal itself under those conditions. I think you could have 2 probs going on at once... Spun hub as Darkstar mentioned and a gear linkage problem with your reverse gear engagement probs. + +Click to expand... + + +I agree 100%. I've been told to lock the flywheel and try to manually turn the prop to test it. Gonna do that and if it fails, pick up a new prop and hub. My main concern is ruling out major lower unit problems, hoping the shift cable is the culprit.","deepsea21 said: + + + + That's not to say you haven't spun a hub as well. What you reported in forward gear while underway when putting the throttle to it (loss of power matched with high revs at high throttle) is telling of a spun hub that tends to reveal itself under those conditions. I think you could have 2 probs going on at once... Spun hub as Darkstar mentioned and a gear linkage problem with your reverse gear engagement probs. + +Click to expand... + + +I agree 100%. I've been told to lock the flywheel and try to manually turn the prop to test it. Gonna do that and if it fails, pick up a new prop and hub. My main concern is ruling out major lower unit problems, hoping the shift cable is the culprit.","Ayuh,..... Sounds like a bad switch,..... +The purple wire is the ignition circuit,.... Check for power at the coil's (+) tiny terminal,....." +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","Nick Moore McCabe said: + + + + I agree 100%. I've been told to lock the flywheel and try to manually turn the prop to test it. Gonna do that and if it fails, pick up a new prop and hub. My main concern is ruling out major lower unit problems, hoping the shift cable is the culprit. + +Click to expand... + + +You can try that for the high throttle slippage and revs you are experiencing but unless you think you have the strength in your arms and hands that matches the torque and HP of your engine at high throttle I doubt you'll find a spun hub by trying to see if you can twist the prop by hand with the flywheel locked unless it has been spun to oblivion. Locking the flywheel and trying to twist the hub? Can you generate the kind of torque the engine is delivering at that throttle setting? If you can twist that prop by hand with the flywheel locked, you'd never have been able to get on plane.","Nick Moore McCabe said: + + + + I agree 100%. I've been told to lock the flywheel and try to manually turn the prop to test it. Gonna do that and if it fails, pick up a new prop and hub. My main concern is ruling out major lower unit problems, hoping the shift cable is the culprit. + +Click to expand... + + +You can try that for the high throttle slippage and revs you are experiencing but unless you think you have the strength in your arms and hands that matches the torque and HP of your engine at high throttle I doubt you'll find a spun hub by trying to see if you can twist the prop by hand with the flywheel locked unless it has been spun to oblivion. Locking the flywheel and trying to twist the hub? Can you generate the kind of torque the engine is delivering at that throttle setting? If you can twist that prop by hand with the flywheel locked, you'd never have been able to get on plane.","boscoe said: + + + + Are you sure as to the date of manufacture? + +Can you state which carburetor, by part number, that was installed on your motor? + +Click to expand... + +No I can't be sure of the year as the plate on the motor doesn't match up with any I've found. The TEIKEI carb part number on the carb body is: + +7FE +6G809 + +Thanks." +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","deepsea21 said: + + + + You can try that for the high throttle slippage and revs you are experiencing but unless you think you have the strength in your arms and hands that matches the torque and HP of your engine at high throttle I doubt you'll find a spun hub by trying to see if you can twist the prop by hand with the flywheel locked unless it has been spun to oblivion. Locking the flywheel and trying to twist the hub? Can you generate the kind of torque the engine is delivering at that throttle setting? If you can twist that prop by hand with the flywheel locked, you'd never have been able to get on plane. + +Click to expand... + + +It's just a 40 horse, probably around 40 ft/lb of peak torque. It's not really much, the power lies in applying that torque at 5000 rpm, I just need an inch to know it's failing. Hell you may be right but I'm gonna give it a shot. If it doesnt slip, not gonna conclude it isn't failed. But maybe I'll get lucky and diagnose it without having to haul it to the lake.","deepsea21 said: + + + + You can try that for the high throttle slippage and revs you are experiencing but unless you think you have the strength in your arms and hands that matches the torque and HP of your engine at high throttle I doubt you'll find a spun hub by trying to see if you can twist the prop by hand with the flywheel locked unless it has been spun to oblivion. Locking the flywheel and trying to twist the hub? Can you generate the kind of torque the engine is delivering at that throttle setting? If you can twist that prop by hand with the flywheel locked, you'd never have been able to get on plane. + +Click to expand... + + +It's just a 40 horse, probably around 40 ft/lb of peak torque. It's not really much, the power lies in applying that torque at 5000 rpm, I just need an inch to know it's failing. Hell you may be right but I'm gonna give it a shot. If it doesnt slip, not gonna conclude it isn't failed. But maybe I'll get lucky and diagnose it without having to haul it to the lake.",Email me and I can send u a diagram +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","If it is a spun hub, is the prop shot or just replacing the hub itself will suffice?","If it is a spun hub, is the prop shot or just replacing the hub itself will suffice?",??????--------Heat the housing and the bearing will fall out. +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.",Take it to any prop shop and they will re-hub it for you.,Take it to any prop shop and they will re-hub it for you.,"Recommend that you post your question on the Mercury Outboard Forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" and scroll down to the Mercury forum." +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","Nick Moore McCabe said: + + + + If it is a spun hub, is the prop shot or just replacing the hub itself will suffice? + +Click to expand... + + +Inside the hub there are very think, big heavy rubber rings that reside between the hub and the outer prop that get seated and rammed in there with incredibly high pressure. They'll probably only need to replace those rubber rings. The idea of the rings is to absorb shock if the prop hits something and basically allow the inner hub to break lose from the outer prop thereby not delivering the shock of an impact to the gearcase and up into the crankshaft and everything else. From what I understand, sometimes they do their job and save vital components, sometimes they don't.","Nick Moore McCabe said: + + + + If it is a spun hub, is the prop shot or just replacing the hub itself will suffice? + +Click to expand... + + +Inside the hub there are very think, big heavy rubber rings that reside between the hub and the outer prop that get seated and rammed in there with incredibly high pressure. They'll probably only need to replace those rubber rings. The idea of the rings is to absorb shock if the prop hits something and basically allow the inner hub to break lose from the outer prop thereby not delivering the shock of an impact to the gearcase and up into the crankshaft and everything else. From what I understand, sometimes they do their job and save vital components, sometimes they don't.",Here's the photo of how it sets: +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.","There's a shop nearby that has my prop with hub for $89 so I'm gonna go for that just to rule everything out. They were iffy about being able to rehub it and it jist doesn't seem worth the minor cost savings. Checked out the shift cable, super easy toolless adjustment, will know for sure if that was the issue once I can get it into the water. Thanks for all the advice guys, saved me a bundle I'm sure.","There's a shop nearby that has my prop with hub for $89 so I'm gonna go for that just to rule everything out. They were iffy about being able to rehub it and it jist doesn't seem worth the minor cost savings. Checked out the shift cable, super easy toolless adjustment, will know for sure if that was the issue once I can get it into the water. Thanks for all the advice guys, saved me a bundle I'm sure.","I am in the same ""boat"" with a 2005 motor and want electric start. I found what seems like a starter for it and it seems I could just bolt it on and wire it up, but not sure." +"I have a 1986 40hp Yamaha on a boat I just purchased. Took it out today and am having some issues. There is a clicking/grinding sound when I put the engine in reverse, it does not seem to be engaging. I am thinking some sort of cable or linkage adjustment is needed. Forward engages fine, however, when I get to about 75% of full throttle, the engine starts to rev high and unloaded like something is slipping and the boat loses speed. If I back off the throttle, it will re-engage and act normal until I go past 75%. I have heard about a hub/prop issue being the cause of this. Does anyone have any advice on what is going on here. The motor has hardly been used and looks like it could be on the showroom floor. It runs perfectly so I am really hoping that I don't have to repower. Thanks in advance.",Do let us know how it turns out... Most of us here have learned the hard way so I know we all want to know what the outcome is and if your probs are fixed.,Do let us know how it turns out... Most of us here have learned the hard way so I know we all want to know what the outcome is and if your probs are fixed.,Also.... usually the engines come with the senders and unless known to be bad need not be replaced. +"can someone tell or show me ho + +can someone tell or show me how to remove the prop shaft from my yamaha p150tlrt. +thanks","""Unless you have the tools, it + +""Unless you have the tools, it would not do you any good.""","""Unless you have the tools, it + +""Unless you have the tools, it would not do you any good.""","https://instagram.com/p/BKqznPJABdJ/ +this is the hole I'm talking about that's at the top of the livewell" +"can someone tell or show me ho + +can someone tell or show me how to remove the prop shaft from my yamaha p150tlrt. +thanks","I have a c90 yamaha bent prop shaft. Ordered new one from boats.net and got a clymer manual from( the manual store.com) On mine I had to remove lower unit,remove prop,then carefully remove shiftshaft,then prop shaft assembly. I would surely get a good manual,and if you have got mechanical skills this should be no problem.If you do this yourself replace any seals,o rings and gaskets that you disturb.hope this helps.","I have a c90 yamaha bent prop shaft. Ordered new one from boats.net and got a clymer manual from( the manual store.com) On mine I had to remove lower unit,remove prop,then carefully remove shiftshaft,then prop shaft assembly. I would surely get a good manual,and if you have got mechanical skills this should be no problem.If you do this yourself replace any seals,o rings and gaskets that you disturb.hope this helps.",Excellent! Thanks for the feedback. I hope it helps others who may have a serious problem. +"can someone tell or show me ho + +can someone tell or show me how to remove the prop shaft from my yamaha p150tlrt. +thanks","you need a prop wrench, new nut and cotter pin","you need a prop wrench, new nut and cotter pin",need a picture of this mystery object +"can someone tell or show me ho + +can someone tell or show me how to remove the prop shaft from my yamaha p150tlrt. +thanks",Took off the prop and rear seal but I did not lemove the lower unit from motor. Is that necessary to remove the shaft and gears?,Took off the prop and rear seal but I did not lemove the lower unit from motor. Is that necessary to remove the shaft and gears?,"Thanks for the info. + + + +kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Fiberglassics has alot of info on boat manufactures but alot of that info was just lost. + +Click to expand... + + +I'm curious, how so? + +Thanks again" +The pitch is wrong for my boat the tag sez 50deto 6h5 L,That is an engine moded number. The pitch of the propeller will be found imprinted on the propeller itself.,That is an engine moded number. The pitch of the propeller will be found imprinted on the propeller itself.,"Thank you for your help so far! +I have one more question. Is it possible that the top two of the 3 carburetors need a #140 main jet and the bottom carburetor needs a #145? Because that's what the description I was able to get says. Because I need to replace the main jets because they were in a very bad condition. +I only found a description in the link below. + +https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...97_Z9_11.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1kpQmSp5T2twgLqHDHWYED" +The pitch is wrong for my boat the tag sez 50deto 6h5 L,"trouble shoot for symptoms first before spending.does engine get wide open throttle,top rpms,proper horsepower for hullweight,length,type of hull,engine height installed correct,even with keel on bottom of hull, Just for starters......THERE IS A FORUM ON THIS WEBSITE ADDRESSING YOUR THREAD, TOP OF PAGE","trouble shoot for symptoms first before spending.does engine get wide open throttle,top rpms,proper horsepower for hullweight,length,type of hull,engine height installed correct,even with keel on bottom of hull, Just for starters......THERE IS A FORUM ON THIS WEBSITE ADDRESSING YOUR THREAD, TOP OF PAGE","aliboy said: + + + + Out of interest, are your alternators externally regulated to compensate for the isolator diodes? If not there are now 'lossless' isolator products out there that might work better for maintaining your batteries than a new diode based system. + +Click to expand... + +Battery power isolator allows an reliable battery to be billed by the car system, yet not take part in motor beginning. It also stops the beginning battery from being run down by your devices when the motor is off." +The pitch is wrong for my boat the tag sez 50deto 6h5 L,"Please state the problem in the title rather then ""need help""","Please state the problem in the title rather then ""need help""",Hi. Did you have any luck with the corrosion on the block. I have simular corrosion on the block .Unsure if I need to try fill it myself or get someone to weld. Thanks In advance Richie +"Hello, + +I have a 2006 Yamaha F15 that wont idle properly. Engine starts and runs fine but when handle is moved to idle it runs rough and then cuts out. Fuel filter is clean, plugs are good. Does anybody have the low speed adjustment procedure for the carb? I can see the throttle stop adjustment screw and have turned to increase the idle speed then it just idles to fast... it used to idle very slowly and smooth. Any help would be good + +Thanks + +Cleco","If you think it is strictly an idle speed issue, make sure you set the idle speed with the boat in the water and the outboard down in the water. ( I learned this the hard way like most everything else). Idle speed set with the engine running on ear-muffs will usually fail to idle in the water due to the exhaust back pressure created when the engine has to force exhaust down below the water line and out the prop hub (assuming your model has thru-hub exhaust). Think of it like blowing through a long straw that's in a deep glass of water vs: blowing through one that isn't. Takes more fuel and force to blow exhaust out below the water line.","If you think it is strictly an idle speed issue, make sure you set the idle speed with the boat in the water and the outboard down in the water. ( I learned this the hard way like most everything else). Idle speed set with the engine running on ear-muffs will usually fail to idle in the water due to the exhaust back pressure created when the engine has to force exhaust down below the water line and out the prop hub (assuming your model has thru-hub exhaust). Think of it like blowing through a long straw that's in a deep glass of water vs: blowing through one that isn't. Takes more fuel and force to blow exhaust out below the water line.","Year and serial#s help.The starter is easy to check.Take it apart clean the brushes. +Sometimes the jumper cables won't be enough. +When you go to Pep-Boys or Auto Zone or who evers in your neighborhood(profile,location)take your batter along and get it tested. +Or,Harbor Freight, Battery Tester about $25.Saves a lot of trip to the auto parts store.J" +"Hello, + +I have a 2006 Yamaha F15 that wont idle properly. Engine starts and runs fine but when handle is moved to idle it runs rough and then cuts out. Fuel filter is clean, plugs are good. Does anybody have the low speed adjustment procedure for the carb? I can see the throttle stop adjustment screw and have turned to increase the idle speed then it just idles to fast... it used to idle very slowly and smooth. Any help would be good + +Thanks + +Cleco",Also - try running a good dose of SEA FOAM in a tank of gas and see if it smooths out. WHenever I have anything running rough before I grab for the wrenches I grab some Sea-Foam at the auto parts store! The stuff is amazing and lots of fuel related problems have a way of just going away after running a tank with a good dose in it.,Also - try running a good dose of SEA FOAM in a tank of gas and see if it smooths out. WHenever I have anything running rough before I grab for the wrenches I grab some Sea-Foam at the auto parts store! The stuff is amazing and lots of fuel related problems have a way of just going away after running a tank with a good dose in it.,What about the tube going from the lower unit that brings water up to the powerhead. +"My yamaha 250 (s250TURU) 2 stroke 1996, starts stalling when i go for the wot. I decided to change the fuel lines, clean out fuel tank, changed fuel filter water seperator, installed new low pressure fuel pomps, cleaned carbs, checked psi on all cylinders and were even on all 6. Installed 6 new sparkplugs and took it out for a test run. Still the same thing. Stalls when going for wot. Took it out and checked the sparkplugs. The left block the 3 new sparkplugs were clean ( the run was for about 3 minutes). The right block the 3 new sparkplugs were completely black and oily. Anny suggestion on what may cause this and where i should look next to fix this problem? Thanks in advance.","Check for spark on all leads.-----------------Good spark will jump a gap of 3/8"" or 1 cm and that test must be done.","Check for spark on all leads.-----------------Good spark will jump a gap of 3/8"" or 1 cm and that test must be done.",And your question or point is? +"Strange situation. Just changed the water pumps about a month ago, tested both and they ran great with strong water coming out the indicators. + +Changed a fuel pressure regulator on the starboard motor yesterday and tested the engine and there was no water coming out. Just a couple drips. Waited about 3 minutes to see if the thermostat needed to open, but no joy. The engine sits in a 100 gallon drum for water. + +Then tried the Yamaha Flush System, nothing, just drips. It has always flushed in the past with no issues. + +Then left the Yamaha Flush system open, and started the engine, nothing. Water usually flows out of the flush input heavily when the engine is started in water. (Yes, never do this!) + +Then I removed the lower unit and connected a hose directly to the input shaft that usually goes into the water pump. Water went into the engine, then stopped. A couple drips, out of the pisser but nothing else. When I removed the hose water rushed back out through the input tube like it is blocked. + +So it can't be the water pump, for sure. Yamaha flush has stopped working. Water does not circulate when applied directly to the water pump input shaft. + +These are great motors in great shape and very well cared for with about 600 hours. Salt water used but always flushed with salt away after every use. + +The only things I can think of are 1) The Yamaha Flush system has been left open. A bug big enough to plug the whole system??? 2) Thermostat? But don't they always have bypass? + +Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks","Can't be the thermostat - the thermostat will always be closed when you initially start the engine until it reaches correct operating temperature - then it will open and close as necessary to maintain optimal operating temp but you never notice it as all water will bypass all the cylinder head and flow through though bypass coming out the propeller hub and the ""pee hole"". + +Seems as though something is clogged up in there. I'd try pulling out the thermostat on top and running water from a hose down into the thermostat port/opening (maybe stick the hose in there and hold a towel around it to create some pressure). That would force water through from the top down instead of the bottom up. With the lower unit off you couls see chunks, debris, mud (mud wasps) or evidence that something else somehow got up in there or was forced up in there and clogged the flow. + +I'll be interested to hear other ideas as this is the first time I've heard of such a thing and I own an F115 with 500 hours on it.","Can't be the thermostat - the thermostat will always be closed when you initially start the engine until it reaches correct operating temperature - then it will open and close as necessary to maintain optimal operating temp but you never notice it as all water will bypass all the cylinder head and flow through though bypass coming out the propeller hub and the ""pee hole"". + +Seems as though something is clogged up in there. I'd try pulling out the thermostat on top and running water from a hose down into the thermostat port/opening (maybe stick the hose in there and hold a towel around it to create some pressure). That would force water through from the top down instead of the bottom up. With the lower unit off you couls see chunks, debris, mud (mud wasps) or evidence that something else somehow got up in there or was forced up in there and clogged the flow. + +I'll be interested to hear other ideas as this is the first time I've heard of such a thing and I own an F115 with 500 hours on it.","400 lbs rating they most be one of the real thin ones, if you do any long distance trailering and the straps are to narrow you may attract some unwanted attention from leos." +"Strange situation. Just changed the water pumps about a month ago, tested both and they ran great with strong water coming out the indicators. + +Changed a fuel pressure regulator on the starboard motor yesterday and tested the engine and there was no water coming out. Just a couple drips. Waited about 3 minutes to see if the thermostat needed to open, but no joy. The engine sits in a 100 gallon drum for water. + +Then tried the Yamaha Flush System, nothing, just drips. It has always flushed in the past with no issues. + +Then left the Yamaha Flush system open, and started the engine, nothing. Water usually flows out of the flush input heavily when the engine is started in water. (Yes, never do this!) + +Then I removed the lower unit and connected a hose directly to the input shaft that usually goes into the water pump. Water went into the engine, then stopped. A couple drips, out of the pisser but nothing else. When I removed the hose water rushed back out through the input tube like it is blocked. + +So it can't be the water pump, for sure. Yamaha flush has stopped working. Water does not circulate when applied directly to the water pump input shaft. + +These are great motors in great shape and very well cared for with about 600 hours. Salt water used but always flushed with salt away after every use. + +The only things I can think of are 1) The Yamaha Flush system has been left open. A bug big enough to plug the whole system??? 2) Thermostat? But don't they always have bypass? + +Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks","Great idea, will give it a shot and let you know.","Great idea, will give it a shot and let you know.",I'm thinking pulser coil next. ( pick up) I found one cheap but I would like to check it first. If anyone knows how? What do I need to pull the flywheel? +"Strange situation. Just changed the water pumps about a month ago, tested both and they ran great with strong water coming out the indicators. + +Changed a fuel pressure regulator on the starboard motor yesterday and tested the engine and there was no water coming out. Just a couple drips. Waited about 3 minutes to see if the thermostat needed to open, but no joy. The engine sits in a 100 gallon drum for water. + +Then tried the Yamaha Flush System, nothing, just drips. It has always flushed in the past with no issues. + +Then left the Yamaha Flush system open, and started the engine, nothing. Water usually flows out of the flush input heavily when the engine is started in water. (Yes, never do this!) + +Then I removed the lower unit and connected a hose directly to the input shaft that usually goes into the water pump. Water went into the engine, then stopped. A couple drips, out of the pisser but nothing else. When I removed the hose water rushed back out through the input tube like it is blocked. + +So it can't be the water pump, for sure. Yamaha flush has stopped working. Water does not circulate when applied directly to the water pump input shaft. + +These are great motors in great shape and very well cared for with about 600 hours. Salt water used but always flushed with salt away after every use. + +The only things I can think of are 1) The Yamaha Flush system has been left open. A bug big enough to plug the whole system??? 2) Thermostat? But don't they always have bypass? + +Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks","Ricor said: + + + + Great idea, will give it a shot and let you know. + +Click to expand... + + +Everything's worth a shot when the alternative is to take it to the Yamaha Mafia service center!","Ricor said: + + + + Great idea, will give it a shot and let you know. + +Click to expand... + + +Everything's worth a shot when the alternative is to take it to the Yamaha Mafia service center!","oops! +just noticed a typo in my post, I should have said ""so i do not wish to use a rule float switch""" +"Strange situation. Just changed the water pumps about a month ago, tested both and they ran great with strong water coming out the indicators. + +Changed a fuel pressure regulator on the starboard motor yesterday and tested the engine and there was no water coming out. Just a couple drips. Waited about 3 minutes to see if the thermostat needed to open, but no joy. The engine sits in a 100 gallon drum for water. + +Then tried the Yamaha Flush System, nothing, just drips. It has always flushed in the past with no issues. + +Then left the Yamaha Flush system open, and started the engine, nothing. Water usually flows out of the flush input heavily when the engine is started in water. (Yes, never do this!) + +Then I removed the lower unit and connected a hose directly to the input shaft that usually goes into the water pump. Water went into the engine, then stopped. A couple drips, out of the pisser but nothing else. When I removed the hose water rushed back out through the input tube like it is blocked. + +So it can't be the water pump, for sure. Yamaha flush has stopped working. Water does not circulate when applied directly to the water pump input shaft. + +These are great motors in great shape and very well cared for with about 600 hours. Salt water used but always flushed with salt away after every use. + +The only things I can think of are 1) The Yamaha Flush system has been left open. A bug big enough to plug the whole system??? 2) Thermostat? But don't they always have bypass? + +Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks","So I took the thermostat off, which is 11 years old and looked new somehow, and backflushed the system. I did not see anything come out but it could have. The inside of the block looks good, no flaking or heavy corrosion. + +Put the lower unit back on, put it in water and it worked perfectly. Tried the Yamaha Flush System, that worked perfectly too. Go figure. Had to be a mud dobber that got in through the Yamaha Flush System that I left open... That is my only guess.","So I took the thermostat off, which is 11 years old and looked new somehow, and backflushed the system. I did not see anything come out but it could have. The inside of the block looks good, no flaking or heavy corrosion. + +Put the lower unit back on, put it in water and it worked perfectly. Tried the Yamaha Flush System, that worked perfectly too. Go figure. Had to be a mud dobber that got in through the Yamaha Flush System that I left open... That is my only guess.","oh now I just gotta find the serial number for it it has been painted a few times trou the years but I need to find them to licence it before I move,Wisconsin dont require a license for a 19 ft. and under but the states going to Connecticut is un forsure and I do not need a ticket! The gas prices are bad enuff! LOL" +"Strange situation. Just changed the water pumps about a month ago, tested both and they ran great with strong water coming out the indicators. + +Changed a fuel pressure regulator on the starboard motor yesterday and tested the engine and there was no water coming out. Just a couple drips. Waited about 3 minutes to see if the thermostat needed to open, but no joy. The engine sits in a 100 gallon drum for water. + +Then tried the Yamaha Flush System, nothing, just drips. It has always flushed in the past with no issues. + +Then left the Yamaha Flush system open, and started the engine, nothing. Water usually flows out of the flush input heavily when the engine is started in water. (Yes, never do this!) + +Then I removed the lower unit and connected a hose directly to the input shaft that usually goes into the water pump. Water went into the engine, then stopped. A couple drips, out of the pisser but nothing else. When I removed the hose water rushed back out through the input tube like it is blocked. + +So it can't be the water pump, for sure. Yamaha flush has stopped working. Water does not circulate when applied directly to the water pump input shaft. + +These are great motors in great shape and very well cared for with about 600 hours. Salt water used but always flushed with salt away after every use. + +The only things I can think of are 1) The Yamaha Flush system has been left open. A bug big enough to plug the whole system??? 2) Thermostat? But don't they always have bypass? + +Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks","Ricor said: + + + + So I took the thermostat off, which is 11 years old and looked new somehow, and backflushed the system. I did not see anything come out but it could have. The inside of the block looks good, no flaking or heavy corrosion. + +Put the lower unit back on, put it in water and it worked perfectly. Tried the Yamaha Flush System, that worked perfectly too. Go figure. Had to be a mud dobber that got in through the Yamaha Flush System that I left open... That is my only guess. + +Click to expand... + + +Glad to hear it is working again. It is strange you didn't see anything come out but who knows - could have been some mud that dissolved with the water or something. 11 year old thermostat? I say change it or at least put it in a small pot of room temp water on the stove and turn on the heat with a thermometer in the water - see that it opens and at what temp. A thermostat that freezes shut or fails can be the death of an engine (the overheat alarm won't tell you it's not opening!). Oil, fuel additives, filters, thermostats and water pump impellers are cheap. New outboards are EXPENSIVE!","Ricor said: + + + + So I took the thermostat off, which is 11 years old and looked new somehow, and backflushed the system. I did not see anything come out but it could have. The inside of the block looks good, no flaking or heavy corrosion. + +Put the lower unit back on, put it in water and it worked perfectly. Tried the Yamaha Flush System, that worked perfectly too. Go figure. Had to be a mud dobber that got in through the Yamaha Flush System that I left open... That is my only guess. + +Click to expand... + + +Glad to hear it is working again. It is strange you didn't see anything come out but who knows - could have been some mud that dissolved with the water or something. 11 year old thermostat? I say change it or at least put it in a small pot of room temp water on the stove and turn on the heat with a thermometer in the water - see that it opens and at what temp. A thermostat that freezes shut or fails can be the death of an engine (the overheat alarm won't tell you it's not opening!). Oil, fuel additives, filters, thermostats and water pump impellers are cheap. New outboards are EXPENSIVE!","125 should be fine, as long as you had the throttle wide open when you did the test. So I think the main thing to focus on would be your note about the spark plugs fouling since you noticed the performance problem. Assuming the compression is ok and you installed the correct plugs, then that means it's running rich due to incorrect fuel pressure. Almost always, that means it's the carbs. I would just replace them at this point. I've heard from many people that these carbs are extremely difficult to clean and tune. + +You can also try measuring the fuel pressure to see if it's higher than the expected range for that engine. If it's not too high, then start looking into all components related to ignition." +"Hi there, I am new to this forum and hoping someone can help. +I have a FL115 2013 model yamaha and am having dramas with the trim on it. +the trim works fine going up and down now dramas shows one the gauge and everything, but when i have the trim up say 1/2 way or 3/4 and am cruising along the engine will drop back to to the bottom with in 15second or so.. is slowly getting worse i think or am just starting to notice it now.. +any idea would be much appreciated?",Sounds like you could be low on fluid in the tilt/trim unit ?,Sounds like you could be low on fluid in the tilt/trim unit ?,"If it was me I’d be working on both at the same time. Get board of sanding, work on the engine, waiting on parts work on the boat. The Hull Truth is as resource that will offer suggestions of what your getting into and how to overcome obstacles that you will no doubt come across. I use The Hull Truth as an example of a resource that might help, there is likely many more sources of information on the internet, heck there could even be a forum or a Facebook page that is focused on restoring old Marquis boats. It’s your project and I’m sure your going to learn lots. I’d suggest take some pictures and post everything you know about your partially disassembled engine.(I’d start a new thread) It’s a starting point." +"Hi there, I am new to this forum and hoping someone can help. +I have a FL115 2013 model yamaha and am having dramas with the trim on it. +the trim works fine going up and down now dramas shows one the gauge and everything, but when i have the trim up say 1/2 way or 3/4 and am cruising along the engine will drop back to to the bottom with in 15second or so.. is slowly getting worse i think or am just starting to notice it now.. +any idea would be much appreciated?","Tilt motor all the way up,locate fluid reservoir under motor and top off fluid, cycle down and up few times,top off again when air bubbles subside","Tilt motor all the way up,locate fluid reservoir under motor and top off fluid, cycle down and up few times,top off again when air bubbles subside","Ayuh,..... Yer there, You have to determine where the slack is,..... + +It can't be done with a video,..... + +That said, it could be the helm or the cable, or both,....." +"Hi there, I am new to this forum and hoping someone can help. +I have a FL115 2013 model yamaha and am having dramas with the trim on it. +the trim works fine going up and down now dramas shows one the gauge and everything, but when i have the trim up say 1/2 way or 3/4 and am cruising along the engine will drop back to to the bottom with in 15second or so.. is slowly getting worse i think or am just starting to notice it now.. +any idea would be much appreciated?","dark_star said: + + + + Sounds like you could be low on fluid in the tilt/trim unit ? + +Click to expand... + +thanks heaps for the reply i have a chance to lift the boat out in a couple days wil give it a shot and let yas know how i go.","dark_star said: + + + + Sounds like you could be low on fluid in the tilt/trim unit ? + +Click to expand... + +thanks heaps for the reply i have a chance to lift the boat out in a couple days wil give it a shot and let yas know how i go.",Bought it 1 year old from original owner don't know about under water it's the first time it never has run since I'v owned it. It never has been run in fresh water seawater use only +I have a 1999 40 hp yamaha that will not die. I have replaced the key switch and checked all connections but still have to pull the choke to kill it. Any ideas?,Check for a bad ground somwhere/anywhere/everywhere. All connections to engine from the wiring harness. Could be a wiring harness gone bad from the ignition to the engine.,Check for a bad ground somwhere/anywhere/everywhere. All connections to engine from the wiring harness. Could be a wiring harness gone bad from the ignition to the engine.,"So doing some searching on forums come across one where the guy was sealing his dog house and was recommended to him to use “Smith epoxy sealer (cpes), dam that stuff is expensive, be nice to seal the wood rather than dealing with the fiberglass thing but I don’t like doing things half*** either, but the smith epoxy is to expensive for me. + So with boats is wood sealer fine for wood that’s not going to have water sitting on it like example the floor? Since I’m new and learning about all this seems like fiberglass over most things would be best (does it make for an impenetrable barrier for moisture?) I just wouldn’t want things to be falling apart or looking like junk 2or3 yrs down the road." +"We own a 1986 Yamaha Pro 50 since it was new. We live on the water. The motor has been very well maintained and has never given us any problems that we can recall. Still generates 5200 rpm at full throttle. Yesterday we were on our way to rescue a neighbor who spent the night on the water...their IO would not run. After running for 3 miles at 3500 rpm the engine suddenly had an uninitiated high RPM condition not caused by cavitation. This condition was not accompanied by an increase in speed or power. I instantly reduced power and shut the engine down. After restart, the engine would exhibit the same condition every time we attempted to gain more than 1000 rpm. We limped to our destination and home again. We pulled the boat from the water, inspected the lower unit lube for any signs of metal filings and found none. No obvious problems noticed upon visual inspection under the engine cover. Looking for some direction from the community if anyone experienced similar symptoms and what part failure(s) may have caused this condition. Thanks.","Sounds like you may have spun the hub on your prop. +take it to a prop repair shop and they can re-seat the hub.","Sounds like you may have spun the hub on your prop. +take it to a prop repair shop and they can re-seat the hub.","Thanks boscoe! + +I contacted Lowrance and this is their response about data and connections. I did not ask about VTS specifically, but will do so in my next communique. + +”If the Yamaha engine which is being connected to the NMEA 2000 network is not already connected to the Yamaha CommandLink system, then the Yamaha Engine Interface cable connects directly to the NMEA 2000 connector under the engine’s cowling. The display and the Yamaha Engine Interface both needs to be connected to the NMEA backbone to output engine data, such as RPM, Engine hours, Engine Temp, Fuel Pressure, and others."" + +Now I just need to find a digram on how to make all of these connections and create an ""NMEA Backbone."" Any suggestions? + +Thanks! + +Now the Yamaha engine which is being connected to the NMEA 2000 network is not already connected to the Yamaha CommandLink system, then the Yamaha Engine Interface cable connects directly to the NMEA 2000 connector under the engine’s cowling. The display and the Yamaha Engine Interface both needs to be connected to the NMEA backbone to output engine data, such as RPM, Engine hours, Engine Temp, Fuel Pressure, and others.”" +"We own a 1986 Yamaha Pro 50 since it was new. We live on the water. The motor has been very well maintained and has never given us any problems that we can recall. Still generates 5200 rpm at full throttle. Yesterday we were on our way to rescue a neighbor who spent the night on the water...their IO would not run. After running for 3 miles at 3500 rpm the engine suddenly had an uninitiated high RPM condition not caused by cavitation. This condition was not accompanied by an increase in speed or power. I instantly reduced power and shut the engine down. After restart, the engine would exhibit the same condition every time we attempted to gain more than 1000 rpm. We limped to our destination and home again. We pulled the boat from the water, inspected the lower unit lube for any signs of metal filings and found none. No obvious problems noticed upon visual inspection under the engine cover. Looking for some direction from the community if anyone experienced similar symptoms and what part failure(s) may have caused this condition. Thanks.","dark_star said: + + + + Sounds like you may have spun the hub on your prop. +take it to a prop repair shop and they can re-seat the hub. + +Click to expand... + + +I was thinking about numerous things and then I read Dark Star's response. 'Nuf said here.","dark_star said: + + + + Sounds like you may have spun the hub on your prop. +take it to a prop repair shop and they can re-seat the hub. + +Click to expand... + + +I was thinking about numerous things and then I read Dark Star's response. 'Nuf said here.","A clean 2 micron filter won't hurt anything. A dirty 10 micron filter can starve the motor of gasoline. + +Neither will damage a fuel pump. + +Other fuel restrictions, of which there are many, can come into play. + +The real issue is that some two strokes can be damaged if and when the fuel supply is restricted, causing the motor to run lean for a period of time." +"2004 Yamaha VX 200 TLRC Fuel Injected. When I start engine, let it warm up, push throttle down it boggs down & won't get on plane. I've replaced fuel injectors, fuel pump filter on bottom of fuel pump, replaced the 3 fuel pump assemblies, I've run a compression test - around 108 PSI on every cylinder, run a fuel pressure test - 35 PSI steady; engine will pick up RPM if u hv the trim all the way up but will only run 4200 RPM. Anyone have any ideas about what the problem is & how to fix it?","spryd2 said: + + + + 2004 Yamaha VX 200 TLRC Fuel Injected. When I start engine, let it warm up, push throttle down it boggs down & won't get on plane. I've replaced fuel injectors, fuel pump filter on bottom of fuel pump, replaced the 3 fuel pump assemblies, I've run a compression test - around 108 PSI on every cylinder, run a fuel pressure test - 35 PSI steady; engine will pick up RPM if u hv the trim all the way up but will only run 4200 RPM. Anyone have any ideas about what the problem is & how to fix it? + +Click to expand... + + + +I had this problem with my older honda 4stroke. Mine would fire up fine and then never get beyond 3000 rpms UNDER LOAD so the dealers couldn't replicate it at their shop. You should try running it on an external fuel tank to make sure it's not tank/bulb related. When the engine is not under load it was fine and would rev to higher levels. + +Mine turned out to be the low pressure fuel pump which is mechanical and only works once your engine reaches a certain rpm. I fixed it myself for about 150, dealer was trying to say it was a cracked head and was going to charge me thousands.","spryd2 said: + + + + 2004 Yamaha VX 200 TLRC Fuel Injected. When I start engine, let it warm up, push throttle down it boggs down & won't get on plane. I've replaced fuel injectors, fuel pump filter on bottom of fuel pump, replaced the 3 fuel pump assemblies, I've run a compression test - around 108 PSI on every cylinder, run a fuel pressure test - 35 PSI steady; engine will pick up RPM if u hv the trim all the way up but will only run 4200 RPM. Anyone have any ideas about what the problem is & how to fix it? + +Click to expand... + + + +I had this problem with my older honda 4stroke. Mine would fire up fine and then never get beyond 3000 rpms UNDER LOAD so the dealers couldn't replicate it at their shop. You should try running it on an external fuel tank to make sure it's not tank/bulb related. When the engine is not under load it was fine and would rev to higher levels. + +Mine turned out to be the low pressure fuel pump which is mechanical and only works once your engine reaches a certain rpm. I fixed it myself for about 150, dealer was trying to say it was a cracked head and was going to charge me thousands.","Im looking at this again as the boat just seems to sit up high on the trailer. The 2 bunks are 2x3 with the 3"" standing upright, so the boat is 3 inches off the frame of the trailer. I see that ShorelandR has a bracket that I can buy that I can lay the 2x3 on it side, and right on the frame of the trailer. right now, the bracket keeps the bunks off the frame about and inch and a half. lowering the boat a little lower, still above the frame, but lower. I would be well away from the Axle so that not even an issue, with the exception that I just ordered a new axle for it. The old owner must have liked running over tree stumps or something, its all bent out of shape. The next thing to work out is what to do with the front bunk?... Sorry for the sideways pics, its how they came out." +"2004 Yamaha VX 200 TLRC Fuel Injected. When I start engine, let it warm up, push throttle down it boggs down & won't get on plane. I've replaced fuel injectors, fuel pump filter on bottom of fuel pump, replaced the 3 fuel pump assemblies, I've run a compression test - around 108 PSI on every cylinder, run a fuel pressure test - 35 PSI steady; engine will pick up RPM if u hv the trim all the way up but will only run 4200 RPM. Anyone have any ideas about what the problem is & how to fix it?",Thanks for the reply I have two fuel tanks it doesn't matter which one I use it still boggs down already replace all three mechanical fuel pumps drained all the fuel n checked fuel tank pick ups . bulb stays hard when it will get on plain replace all coils don't think I have a misfire more fuel related hard to figure out,Thanks for the reply I have two fuel tanks it doesn't matter which one I use it still boggs down already replace all three mechanical fuel pumps drained all the fuel n checked fuel tank pick ups . bulb stays hard when it will get on plain replace all coils don't think I have a misfire more fuel related hard to figure out,"Does it idle any longer with the gas cap to your fuel tank removed? Could just be lack of venting. + +Also, does it idle any longer if you manually pump the primer bulb every few seconds leading up to the 11th minute? + +I think if the behavior stays the same in those cases, I would start considering electrical/ECM issues. Not sure where I'd start looking, but I would at least compare a YDS report at key-on, just after start up when cold, and again right around that 11th minute. I wouldn't look only for error codes. You can graph the fuel pressure vs. other stats and maybe see a connection that you wouldn't otherwise notice with just one static report." +I have a 1991 200hp yamaha and every time I crank the motor and let it sit for a few minutes it blows the in-line fuse at the starter. It doesn't blow the fuse just from turning the key over it only blows after engine is ran for a few minutes and shut off,"I would start by trying to track down the electrical circuit diagram for your motor. If you are lucky you will be able to find one on the Net somewhere. Once you have it take a look at all the things that are protected by that fuse and start to test them one by one. Also check all your wires for sections where the insulation has worn away allowing the wire to contact with the grounded casing, possibly through vibration once it is running. + +Stuart","I would start by trying to track down the electrical circuit diagram for your motor. If you are lucky you will be able to find one on the Net somewhere. Once you have it take a look at all the things that are protected by that fuse and start to test them one by one. Also check all your wires for sections where the insulation has worn away allowing the wire to contact with the grounded casing, possibly through vibration once it is running. + +Stuart",?????????????? +"Bought a used 9.9 took the guys word it runs great and has been well maintained. It's a remote control model with e start. + +It's in neutral, connect the battery, plug in the control cable and turn the key. Nothing. + +Pulled the cover and 2 wires are disconnected - a red one, second in be row with a big fuse. And then a black one leading it a ground post I presume. + +Any ideas ? First outboard I have owned + +Pic for reference http://imgur.com/KQewm2c","Hi mate, it could be a few things. Here is a video I made a while ago that might help you diagnose the problem: https://youtu.be/e1h-blqDm4U + +Stu","Hi mate, it could be a few things. Here is a video I made a while ago that might help you diagnose the problem: https://youtu.be/e1h-blqDm4U + +Stu","just to close off i have replaced the selector cam and was a quick 10 min job to replace, having researched you can move the selector back to the side of the motor however the costs worked out around the same and i like having the gear change on the tiller so i am not reaching around the engine." +Just bought the outboard. The trim/tilt motor was rusted badly. When I removed it there was water inthe oil. Decided to replace all seals and o rings. I can find allthe parts except the top rod seal/dust seal on the tilt rod. I wastold that I have to replace the whole assemby ($525) to get thatseal. Doesn't seem real. Are there any solutions out there.,Sounds like a bunch of Yamaha service BS to me. Go to simyamaha.com and check out their parts diagrams on your engine - check out the Power Trim/Tilt Assembly 1 diagram (I just did). Seems to me there's no need to replace the entire trim assy is broken down into 78 parts. If you can't identify the specific gasket call Sim and they'll tell you which one it is or which sub-assembly it is a fixed compenent of. They may have to special order it.,Sounds like a bunch of Yamaha service BS to me. Go to simyamaha.com and check out their parts diagrams on your engine - check out the Power Trim/Tilt Assembly 1 diagram (I just did). Seems to me there's no need to replace the entire trim assy is broken down into 78 parts. If you can't identify the specific gasket call Sim and they'll tell you which one it is or which sub-assembly it is a fixed compenent of. They may have to special order it.,I would run the S/N of the motor and then go to a parts guide and find the part number to find the right carb. Cant go by the numbers on the carb itself. +Just bought the outboard. The trim/tilt motor was rusted badly. When I removed it there was water inthe oil. Decided to replace all seals and o rings. I can find allthe parts except the top rod seal/dust seal on the tilt rod. I wastold that I have to replace the whole assemby ($525) to get thatseal. Doesn't seem real. Are there any solutions out there.,"deepsea21 said: + + + + Sounds like a bunch of Yamaha service BS to me. Go to simyamaha.com and check out their parts diagrams on your engine - check out the Power Trim/Tilt Assembly 1 diagram (I just did). Seems to me there's no need to replace the entire trim assy is broken down into 78 parts. If you can't identify the specific gasket call Sim and they'll tell you which one it is or which sub-assembly it is a fixed compenent of. They may have to special order it. + +Click to expand... + + + +I looked at your website and it doesnot show the dust seal at the top of the tilt rod as a separate part. I have called the parts houses and they say I have to buy theassembly. What I am looking for is someone who has figured out aworkaround for this $5 part rather than the $525 assembly. A secondquestion might be that if I remove the screw in the bottom of thepiston can the piston assembly be removed from the rod so the cap canslide off?","deepsea21 said: + + + + Sounds like a bunch of Yamaha service BS to me. Go to simyamaha.com and check out their parts diagrams on your engine - check out the Power Trim/Tilt Assembly 1 diagram (I just did). Seems to me there's no need to replace the entire trim assy is broken down into 78 parts. If you can't identify the specific gasket call Sim and they'll tell you which one it is or which sub-assembly it is a fixed compenent of. They may have to special order it. + +Click to expand... + + + +I looked at your website and it doesnot show the dust seal at the top of the tilt rod as a separate part. I have called the parts houses and they say I have to buy theassembly. What I am looking for is someone who has figured out aworkaround for this $5 part rather than the $525 assembly. A secondquestion might be that if I remove the screw in the bottom of thepiston can the piston assembly be removed from the rod so the cap canslide off?","2.) For the bottom one - I would like for it to seal against the transom in both the inside and outside of the boat. The outside for obvious reasons, and the inside so water that sits in the bottom of the sump (there is always a little bit that the pump can't get to) doesn't get into the transom. I was thinking a threaded bulkhead style one. Is that an accepted drain style for that part of the boat? I wonder if I would be able to find one that would also still fit that rubber plug? + +Click to expand... + +Ayuh,..... You'll be way ahead to just butter up the insides of the hole to seal up the wood, 'n screw on a screw-in garboard plug flange on the outside, like most higher end hulls use,...." +Just bought the outboard. The trim/tilt motor was rusted badly. When I removed it there was water inthe oil. Decided to replace all seals and o rings. I can find allthe parts except the top rod seal/dust seal on the tilt rod. I wastold that I have to replace the whole assemby ($525) to get thatseal. Doesn't seem real. Are there any solutions out there.,"crabmann said: + + + + I looked at your website and it doesnot show the dust seal at the top of the tilt rod as a separate part. I have called the parts houses and they say I have to buy theassembly. What I am looking for is someone who has figured out aworkaround for this $5 part rather than the $525 assembly. A secondquestion might be that if I remove the screw in the bottom of thepiston can the piston assembly be removed from the rod so the cap canslide off? + +Click to expand... + + +Pretty sure I bought one for my '98 C60 last year. I don't see yours being any different. Do you have a link to the diagram you are looking at? I can try to confirm which one I bought.","crabmann said: + + + + I looked at your website and it doesnot show the dust seal at the top of the tilt rod as a separate part. I have called the parts houses and they say I have to buy theassembly. What I am looking for is someone who has figured out aworkaround for this $5 part rather than the $525 assembly. A secondquestion might be that if I remove the screw in the bottom of thepiston can the piston assembly be removed from the rod so the cap canslide off? + +Click to expand... + + +Pretty sure I bought one for my '98 C60 last year. I don't see yours being any different. Do you have a link to the diagram you are looking at? I can try to confirm which one I bought.", +Just bought the outboard. The trim/tilt motor was rusted badly. When I removed it there was water inthe oil. Decided to replace all seals and o rings. I can find allthe parts except the top rod seal/dust seal on the tilt rod. I wastold that I have to replace the whole assemby ($525) to get thatseal. Doesn't seem real. Are there any solutions out there.,"Katch said: + + + + Pretty sure I bought one for my '98 C60 last year. I don't see yours being any different. Do you have a link to the diagram you are looking at? I can try to confirm which one I bought. + +Click to expand... + + +Here is a link to a parts site. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1996/C75TLRU/POWER TRIM TILT ASSEMBLY 1/parts.html + + I don't know if it is direct to specific engine. If not 1996/C75TRLU/trim tilt. I am looking for a dust seal at the top of the tilt rod. I took the screw out of the piston and as far as I can tell it does not separate there which means it has to come apart at the socket on top. Can't see how that is done (easily). Thanks for looking into this problem for me.","Katch said: + + + + Pretty sure I bought one for my '98 C60 last year. I don't see yours being any different. Do you have a link to the diagram you are looking at? I can try to confirm which one I bought. + +Click to expand... + + +Here is a link to a parts site. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1996/C75TLRU/POWER TRIM TILT ASSEMBLY 1/parts.html + + I don't know if it is direct to specific engine. If not 1996/C75TRLU/trim tilt. I am looking for a dust seal at the top of the tilt rod. I took the screw out of the piston and as far as I can tell it does not separate there which means it has to come apart at the socket on top. Can't see how that is done (easily). Thanks for looking into this problem for me.",the thickness that is already there is like a 16th or a 8th of an inch or something ......but i didnt know if there is a required gap thickness of the transom for proper alignment and fit for the outdrive to the rest of the motor .....i know that there is a driveshaft that makes it all work and I dont want it pinched to tight in there ..........my idea was to weld it all up and use the other boat to make a template for the hole i need to cut ........then i was thinking that i would measure the thickness of the donor boats transom ...........and add that to the inside of the metal transom with marine plywood and just use some 5200 and some screws to hold it all up there ......what do ya think ........another question ....is there any water that flows through the motor to outdrive that would affect the seal between all of that or does it all flow through hoses between the transom +Just bought the outboard. The trim/tilt motor was rusted badly. When I removed it there was water inthe oil. Decided to replace all seals and o rings. I can find allthe parts except the top rod seal/dust seal on the tilt rod. I wastold that I have to replace the whole assemby ($525) to get thatseal. Doesn't seem real. Are there any solutions out there.,"crabmann said: + + + + Here is a link to a parts site. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1996/C75TLRU/POWER TRIM TILT ASSEMBLY 1/parts.html + + I don't know if it is direct to specific engine. If not 1996/C75TRLU/trim tilt. I am looking for a dust seal at the top of the tilt rod. I took the screw out of the piston and as far as I can tell it does not separate there which means it has to come apart at the socket on top. Can't see how that is done (easily). Thanks for looking into this problem for me. + +Click to expand... + + +IN that diagram are you talking about part/assembly #20? This is just a guess and I'll have to look at mine as the design can't have changed that much - I'm wondering (if it is part #20) I see 4 indents on the top of the piston housing. I'm wondering if when the motor is fully tilted up those 4 indents aren't there to serve as some type of anchor points that allow one to unscrew the top of the cylinder and pull that piston assembly out. Once out I'd bet the bottom of the piston assembly can be taken off allowing the piston to be fully pulled out the top. If that's the case, seems like it should be possible to then pry out whatever little rubber dust gasket is in there and find another gasket that may fit in its place. If it does come out that way you'd probably have to drain all fluid and leave the system open to pull that piston assembly out of the cylinder. At this point - what do you have to lose except $525 on a replacement","crabmann said: + + + + Here is a link to a parts site. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1996/C75TLRU/POWER TRIM TILT ASSEMBLY 1/parts.html + + I don't know if it is direct to specific engine. If not 1996/C75TRLU/trim tilt. I am looking for a dust seal at the top of the tilt rod. I took the screw out of the piston and as far as I can tell it does not separate there which means it has to come apart at the socket on top. Can't see how that is done (easily). Thanks for looking into this problem for me. + +Click to expand... + + +IN that diagram are you talking about part/assembly #20? This is just a guess and I'll have to look at mine as the design can't have changed that much - I'm wondering (if it is part #20) I see 4 indents on the top of the piston housing. I'm wondering if when the motor is fully tilted up those 4 indents aren't there to serve as some type of anchor points that allow one to unscrew the top of the cylinder and pull that piston assembly out. Once out I'd bet the bottom of the piston assembly can be taken off allowing the piston to be fully pulled out the top. If that's the case, seems like it should be possible to then pry out whatever little rubber dust gasket is in there and find another gasket that may fit in its place. If it does come out that way you'd probably have to drain all fluid and leave the system open to pull that piston assembly out of the cylinder. At this point - what do you have to lose except $525 on a replacement","Bummer to hear Ranger's support dept has gone downhill..... + +You can buy cartridge pumps anywhere you can get bass boat stuff....even from amazon... + +As Bondo said on the other site, the four black tabs look like the normal retainer mechanism to separate the motor from the housing. also, looks like a pro-line style motor housing, so that may be another piece of the puzzle. + +finally, from what I can see in the pics, looks like you'll need a ""two port"" pump as they appear to be installed ""in-line"".....call SPX (aka Johnson) and explain what you have and what you want to do....I'd bet they can tell you what's in their product line....only takes your time." +Just bought the outboard. The trim/tilt motor was rusted badly. When I removed it there was water inthe oil. Decided to replace all seals and o rings. I can find allthe parts except the top rod seal/dust seal on the tilt rod. I wastold that I have to replace the whole assemby ($525) to get thatseal. Doesn't seem real. Are there any solutions out there.,"deepsea21 said: + + + + IN that diagram are you talking about part/assembly #20? This is just a guess and I'll have to look at mine as the design can't have changed that much - I'm wondering (if it is part #20) I see 4 indents on the top of the piston housing. I'm wondering if when the motor is fully tilted up those 4 indents aren't there to serve as some type of anchor points that allow one to unscrew the top of the cylinder and pull that piston assembly out. Once out I'd bet the bottom of the piston assembly can be taken off allowing the piston to be fully pulled out the top. If that's the case, seems like it should be possible to then pry out whatever little rubber dust gasket is in there and find another gasket that may fit in its place. If it does come out that way you'd probably have to drain all fluid and leave the system open to pull that piston assembly out of the cylinder. At this point - what do you have to lose except $525 on a replacement + +Click to expand... + + +I have removed the whole trim/tilt system from the engine and removed both the trim and tilt piston/rod assemblies. Yes those 4 indents allow you to unscrew the cap (where the dust seal is located) and remove the rod and piston. As far as I can tell the yoke at the top that attaches to the engine does not unscrew nor do I see how the piston comes off. This arrangement does not let you slide the cap off the rod. If you remove the screw in the bottom of the piston you see 5 springs that load some kind of mushroom shaped stops. I guess that they have somehow pressure related.","deepsea21 said: + + + + IN that diagram are you talking about part/assembly #20? This is just a guess and I'll have to look at mine as the design can't have changed that much - I'm wondering (if it is part #20) I see 4 indents on the top of the piston housing. I'm wondering if when the motor is fully tilted up those 4 indents aren't there to serve as some type of anchor points that allow one to unscrew the top of the cylinder and pull that piston assembly out. Once out I'd bet the bottom of the piston assembly can be taken off allowing the piston to be fully pulled out the top. If that's the case, seems like it should be possible to then pry out whatever little rubber dust gasket is in there and find another gasket that may fit in its place. If it does come out that way you'd probably have to drain all fluid and leave the system open to pull that piston assembly out of the cylinder. At this point - what do you have to lose except $525 on a replacement + +Click to expand... + + +I have removed the whole trim/tilt system from the engine and removed both the trim and tilt piston/rod assemblies. Yes those 4 indents allow you to unscrew the cap (where the dust seal is located) and remove the rod and piston. As far as I can tell the yoke at the top that attaches to the engine does not unscrew nor do I see how the piston comes off. This arrangement does not let you slide the cap off the rod. If you remove the screw in the bottom of the piston you see 5 springs that load some kind of mushroom shaped stops. I guess that they have somehow pressure related.",My e clip was still on the shaft but it was way up high on the shaft just below plastic plate and shift shaft seal. Looking at the picture it should be lower. Do you know if this e clip should be right on top of the cam? Thanks again +Just bought the outboard. The trim/tilt motor was rusted badly. When I removed it there was water inthe oil. Decided to replace all seals and o rings. I can find allthe parts except the top rod seal/dust seal on the tilt rod. I wastold that I have to replace the whole assemby ($525) to get thatseal. Doesn't seem real. Are there any solutions out there.,"OK... so you've tried that... That's what I was wondering.. If somehow the bottom plate on that piston could be removed and the top plate slid down the piston and off the bottom. + +Wish I knew what else to say but I'm out of ideas. After breaking the whole thing down I'm pretty sure you don't want to hear one of those 1/2-assed fixes like smearing the entire piston with synthetic waterproof grease then lowering it to drag that grease down into that gasket and opening each time. That would help keeping water splashing on it from getting down in there but that's bubble gum and bandaids. Sounds like this may be one of those great examples of yamaha engineering that makes you want to find the engineer who designed this part and ram that assembly up his tail.","OK... so you've tried that... That's what I was wondering.. If somehow the bottom plate on that piston could be removed and the top plate slid down the piston and off the bottom. + +Wish I knew what else to say but I'm out of ideas. After breaking the whole thing down I'm pretty sure you don't want to hear one of those 1/2-assed fixes like smearing the entire piston with synthetic waterproof grease then lowering it to drag that grease down into that gasket and opening each time. That would help keeping water splashing on it from getting down in there but that's bubble gum and bandaids. Sounds like this may be one of those great examples of yamaha engineering that makes you want to find the engineer who designed this part and ram that assembly up his tail.",There is a spot on the intake manifold where you mount a simple pump.---Just in front of the starter motor.-------A pump like found on the 88 HP versions of your motor.-----The pump should have 2 nipples one for fuel in and one for fuel out.------The pump mounts directly over the PRESSURE port with 2 screws 10-24NC thread and a gasket.-----The plug has to be removed from the pressure port.------Plug the port where VRO got pressure. +Just bought the outboard. The trim/tilt motor was rusted badly. When I removed it there was water inthe oil. Decided to replace all seals and o rings. I can find allthe parts except the top rod seal/dust seal on the tilt rod. I wastold that I have to replace the whole assemby ($525) to get thatseal. Doesn't seem real. Are there any solutions out there.,"Interesting... +Check out the diagram for the 1998 tilt/trim assembly: +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1996/C75TLRU/POWER TRIM TILT ASSEMBLY 1/parts.html +It shows individual rings (seals?) unlike the diagram for the 1996 model; however, the entire structure (#20) has the same identical part number as #20 in the 1998.","Interesting... +Check out the diagram for the 1998 tilt/trim assembly: +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1996/C75TLRU/POWER TRIM TILT ASSEMBLY 1/parts.html +It shows individual rings (seals?) unlike the diagram for the 1996 model; however, the entire structure (#20) has the same identical part number as #20 in the 1998.",new aluminum eye plate backed up by an aluminum plate inside the hull...I have gone this route twice on two different boats..the reason for the aluminum eye plate is you are then welding aluminum to aluminum.. +I have a 225 0x66 2002 2 stroke that the when is idling or is being flushed with the ears the warning horn sounds. When it happens on the water I rev it up [which turns the pump faster giving it more flow] and the horn shuts off. The impella was changed 1 year ago BUT running the boat out of Hatteras Inlet I have dragged her thru sand about 7 times since for about 3 to 5 sec; getting out of trouble. My question is are the pump impella's that prone to destruction from groundings in sand and should I start their. Thanks,"When hooked to earmuffs an engine really isn't getting the same water flow it gets with the impeller submerged in water. I tell friends if they are going to flush with muffs to first turn on the water and squeeze the muffs against the sides of the lower unit - you can actually hear the water being forced up through the impeller and lower unit. Then, get clear of it and start it. + +That engine is known for this. I'd start at the thermostats and impeller, impeller housing and the impeller plate it sits on. If the impeller housing if it isn't perfectly smooth or feels like it has groves cut in it could lower pressure - same with the plate the impeller sits on - it should be perfectly smooth with no grooves ground into it. As far as the thermostats go - put them in a pot of water on the stove and turn on the heat (can also stick a thermometer in the water while doing this) and see if they open and at what temp. + +Also, what is are your idle RPM's when it is IN the water? Idle RPM should be around 750. Lower RPM than that can set off the alarm. + +Lastly, google ""Yamaha 225 ox66 poppet valve"". That can cause these warnings and I believe there is a better made replacement valve now if necessary. Some report that just lightly stretching out that internal spring a bit and putting all back together solved the problem.","When hooked to earmuffs an engine really isn't getting the same water flow it gets with the impeller submerged in water. I tell friends if they are going to flush with muffs to first turn on the water and squeeze the muffs against the sides of the lower unit - you can actually hear the water being forced up through the impeller and lower unit. Then, get clear of it and start it. + +That engine is known for this. I'd start at the thermostats and impeller, impeller housing and the impeller plate it sits on. If the impeller housing if it isn't perfectly smooth or feels like it has groves cut in it could lower pressure - same with the plate the impeller sits on - it should be perfectly smooth with no grooves ground into it. As far as the thermostats go - put them in a pot of water on the stove and turn on the heat (can also stick a thermometer in the water while doing this) and see if they open and at what temp. + +Also, what is are your idle RPM's when it is IN the water? Idle RPM should be around 750. Lower RPM than that can set off the alarm. + +Lastly, google ""Yamaha 225 ox66 poppet valve"". That can cause these warnings and I believe there is a better made replacement valve now if necessary. Some report that just lightly stretching out that internal spring a bit and putting all back together solved the problem.",I think that might be part of the starting / choke system.----An 8 HP motor only needs one float bowl for fuel.---- +I have a 225 0x66 2002 2 stroke that the when is idling or is being flushed with the ears the warning horn sounds. When it happens on the water I rev it up [which turns the pump faster giving it more flow] and the horn shuts off. The impella was changed 1 year ago BUT running the boat out of Hatteras Inlet I have dragged her thru sand about 7 times since for about 3 to 5 sec; getting out of trouble. My question is are the pump impella's that prone to destruction from groundings in sand and should I start their. Thanks,Thanks deepsea i'll check these issues out when I go back down to the outer banks on wed; to start a remodel job.,Thanks deepsea i'll check these issues out when I go back down to the outer banks on wed; to start a remodel job.,"garyak said: + + + + I want to add an hour meter. The back of my tach has positive and negative male spade terminals as does the hour meter. Can I just jump the leads from the tach to the hour meter? I'd be sure to maintain polarity. Will that work? Thanks for any assistance! + +Click to expand... + + +As long as your tach only works with the ignition switch on, the positive and negative terminals on the tach will work fine." +"2004 Yam 200 SX200TXRD +Owner stated it started turning over slow. +History: #6 low comp. but still started good and ran like nothing wrong. +Then the slow turning over started?? +Checked the battery and starter, OK +Pulled plugs and still turned over slow. +So I thought the lower unit, a bearing might be locked. +I tried to pull the lower and it came off REALLLY hard. +Turns out the drive shaft passage and bushing was completely clogged with salt and corrosion. +Does the bushing need to be replaced or can I leave it out?? +The boat lives on a lift in salt water and I can only think that it's gonna happen again???? +Would normal flushing after running have stopped this? +No fresh water on the pier.","Had friend with 140 suzuki same problem,drive shaft mid bearing seized,starter drew so much current batt cables caught on fire, wiring harness,Hydraulic steering hoses,etc.Bearing had to be cut off, shaft reconditioned.Suzuki brass said it was operator error,lack of flushing on every use and not pulling l/u every year for cleaning&relubing.2000.dollars later","Had friend with 140 suzuki same problem,drive shaft mid bearing seized,starter drew so much current batt cables caught on fire, wiring harness,Hydraulic steering hoses,etc.Bearing had to be cut off, shaft reconditioned.Suzuki brass said it was operator error,lack of flushing on every use and not pulling l/u every year for cleaning&relubing.2000.dollars later","I have looked at the parts catalog. There is no way to ""fast idle"" the motor. As you note. the owner's manual makes no mention of this. Rightfully so it appears. Nothing to figure out. + +Actually, there is no reason to do so. The motor is computer controlled. Just let it do its job. + +I read about folks racing a motor in neutral. Maybe the motor maker changed the design to prevent folks from doing this. + +In our EFI automobiles and trucks, I can't recall the last time I had to press the accelerator pedal to fast idle the motor." +"2004 Yam 200 SX200TXRD +Owner stated it started turning over slow. +History: #6 low comp. but still started good and ran like nothing wrong. +Then the slow turning over started?? +Checked the battery and starter, OK +Pulled plugs and still turned over slow. +So I thought the lower unit, a bearing might be locked. +I tried to pull the lower and it came off REALLLY hard. +Turns out the drive shaft passage and bushing was completely clogged with salt and corrosion. +Does the bushing need to be replaced or can I leave it out?? +The boat lives on a lift in salt water and I can only think that it's gonna happen again???? +Would normal flushing after running have stopped this? +No fresh water on the pier.","Thanks. +That's pretty much what I'd thought. +Can it be removed and not replaced?","Thanks. +That's pretty much what I'd thought. +Can it be removed and not replaced?","The alarm sounds as soon as you turn the key on with out the motor running. The motor starts right up and runs fine, the water that come out of the bottom of the cover, the pump out put, runs out in a steady stream , not squirting out but running out like a water faucet. I am confused as none of these seem to be the issue? Would there be maybe a temp sending unit out i wonder?? I do greatly appreciate you guys input. I thank you very much." +"2004 Yam 200 SX200TXRD +Owner stated it started turning over slow. +History: #6 low comp. but still started good and ran like nothing wrong. +Then the slow turning over started?? +Checked the battery and starter, OK +Pulled plugs and still turned over slow. +So I thought the lower unit, a bearing might be locked. +I tried to pull the lower and it came off REALLLY hard. +Turns out the drive shaft passage and bushing was completely clogged with salt and corrosion. +Does the bushing need to be replaced or can I leave it out?? +The boat lives on a lift in salt water and I can only think that it's gonna happen again???? +Would normal flushing after running have stopped this? +No fresh water on the pier.",I would replace it if it's in bad shape it's there for a reason,I would replace it if it's in bad shape it's there for a reason,"Re: 20LG missing on #2 Cylinder UPDATE!! + + + +cleco said: + + + + UPDATE: I replaced the CDI and the problem remains. + +I got my used CDI and installed it, NO FIX, exact same symptom's as before, #2 cylinder still misfiring. I put the timing light on #2 and checked the timing mark on the flywheel and it was very erratic. So I removed the flywheel again to check and make sure I did not miss anything. While I had the flywheel off I noticed something strange. +The flywheel has TWO small round trigger magnets of the inner shaft, one above the other, also the pulser coils have two pick ups on each coil. One of the magnets on the flywheel is NOT magnetic anymore!! +I have never seen this kind of set up before. Everything I have deal with in the past has had only one trigger magnet and the trigger coils have had only one post on them. Has anybody seen this kind of setup before? + +ANYBODY? + +Click to expand... + + hello there i have the same motor and problem... did you find a solution" +"2004 Yam 200 SX200TXRD +Owner stated it started turning over slow. +History: #6 low comp. but still started good and ran like nothing wrong. +Then the slow turning over started?? +Checked the battery and starter, OK +Pulled plugs and still turned over slow. +So I thought the lower unit, a bearing might be locked. +I tried to pull the lower and it came off REALLLY hard. +Turns out the drive shaft passage and bushing was completely clogged with salt and corrosion. +Does the bushing need to be replaced or can I leave it out?? +The boat lives on a lift in salt water and I can only think that it's gonna happen again???? +Would normal flushing after running have stopped this? +No fresh water on the pier.",As you already know but for others - Whenever pulling the lower unit apply marine grease to the top splined section of that drive shaft before it goes back up in there. Somehow salt has a way of working its way into everything and corrosion can literally weld the splines of that drive shaft into the receiver just as the splines on the prop shaft where they are received by the propeller can end up virtually welded together.,As you already know but for others - Whenever pulling the lower unit apply marine grease to the top splined section of that drive shaft before it goes back up in there. Somehow salt has a way of working its way into everything and corrosion can literally weld the splines of that drive shaft into the receiver just as the splines on the prop shaft where they are received by the propeller can end up virtually welded together.,Oh boy guess I have some looking to do thank you very much +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","jnobby said: + + + +Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John + +Click to expand... + + + + +Anyone with some ideas?","jnobby said: + + + +Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John + +Click to expand... + + + + +Anyone with some ideas?","As per Chris's suggestion, dip tube most likely culprit. +Also check the fuel level manually - the gauge sender maybe reading off and the tank is actually about empty. Dip tubes don't go all the way to the bottom of the tank (they'd suck all the water and crud) so you could be 'empty' with 3 or 4 galls in the bottom. I've also had fuel lines collapse internally and if the fuel tank is low down, as the suction increases as fuel level drops that could shut the flow." +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","Have you or the prior owner been running ethanol blended fuel? Before I do anything with a randomly rough running engine that's been subjected to ethanol blended fuel and perhaps stored for a while I give it a heavy dose of Seafoam and keep on runng it to see if it fixes itself. Ethanol blended fuel is absolute worst thing to ever hit us boaters. I absolutely never, ever use it anymore and am more than happy to pay whatever it costs for non-ethanol gasoline... Been in and out of my outboard enough times fixing clogged this and thats from that enthanol gumming.","Have you or the prior owner been running ethanol blended fuel? Before I do anything with a randomly rough running engine that's been subjected to ethanol blended fuel and perhaps stored for a while I give it a heavy dose of Seafoam and keep on runng it to see if it fixes itself. Ethanol blended fuel is absolute worst thing to ever hit us boaters. I absolutely never, ever use it anymore and am more than happy to pay whatever it costs for non-ethanol gasoline... Been in and out of my outboard enough times fixing clogged this and thats from that enthanol gumming.","Well I own the boat. I had a marine mechanic check it out and do the compression test. The foot is new, and all cylinders were around 113, with number 6 being at 109. The carbs were professionally cleaned in 2015, new fuel lines installed. The owner has had it since 2009 and always ran Ethanol free 91 octane with Yamalube and some Yamaha cleaner every third tank. +More importantly the budget is there for a repower should this motor grenade, which I doubt it will. +Even more importantly the Hull is in fantastic shape, with great original gel coat and two year old interior with the correct and very 90's Teal, Grey , Pink and White. +Not too many outboards made specifically for skiing, so very pleased with this boat." +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","deepsea21 said: + + + + Have you or the prior owner been running ethanol blended fuel? Before I do anything with a randomly rough running engine that's been subjected to ethanol blended fuel and perhaps stored for a while I give it a heavy dose of Seafoam and keep on runng it to see if it fixes itself. Ethanol blended fuel is absolute worst thing to ever hit us boaters. I absolutely never, ever use it anymore and am more than happy to pay whatever it costs for non-ethanol gasoline... Been in and out of my outboard enough times fixing clogged this and thats from that enthanol gumming. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks for the reply deepsea21. I have changed all the filters including cleaning the vst in this one motor and not the other but it continues to give me the same issues. The other runs like a top all the time this is the weird thing about it.","deepsea21 said: + + + + Have you or the prior owner been running ethanol blended fuel? Before I do anything with a randomly rough running engine that's been subjected to ethanol blended fuel and perhaps stored for a while I give it a heavy dose of Seafoam and keep on runng it to see if it fixes itself. Ethanol blended fuel is absolute worst thing to ever hit us boaters. I absolutely never, ever use it anymore and am more than happy to pay whatever it costs for non-ethanol gasoline... Been in and out of my outboard enough times fixing clogged this and thats from that enthanol gumming. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks for the reply deepsea21. I have changed all the filters including cleaning the vst in this one motor and not the other but it continues to give me the same issues. The other runs like a top all the time this is the weird thing about it.",Might be this one +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","jnobby said: + + + + Thanks for the reply deepsea21. I have changed all the filters including cleaning the vst in this one motor and not the other but it continues to give me the same issues. The other runs like a top all the time this is the weird thing about it. + +Click to expand... + + +Ahh yes that wonderful VST filter burried deep inside the VST tank burried deep inside the engine (I'd love to get my hands around the neck of the Yamaha engineer who placed that tank and filter so deep inside the engine!) + +Are there separate fuel tanks or are both engines fed by one tank? I am wondering if it could be a fuel flow issue in which flow becomes insufficient at higher RPM's with both engines running and the fuel really being sucked from the tank(s). Regardless of whether or not you have twin tanks or a single fuel tank, get to the tank(s) and look for the fuel pick-up line that runs down inside the fuel tank and sits at the bottom. Pull the pick-up line and see if the manufacturer placed a little filter on the end of the pick-up line(s). Some manufacturers do and they NEVER EVER SHOULD as that is the last place anyone would think to look for a filter. As the engines run and suck fuel, particulate that could have been left in the tank since maufacture can begin to get stuck on that little filter... As you keep running, they keep sucking fuel and more gets stuck on it to the point it restricts flow... Then, you throttle back or shut down, fuel sloshes around in the tank and those particles drop off that little filter and start floating around again. Everything runs fine until it happens again they get again get stuck on that stupid little filter. There is absolutely no need for a filter on the end of the fuel pick-up line if you are running an in-line fuel-water seperator filter, and even if you aren't, no need for it as each engine has it's own fuel filter in the rear under the cowling. I had a friend who chased a ghost for months until someone told him about the possibiliity a stupid $2 filter could have been stuck on the end of that pick-up line. Sure enough, there was, and he got rid of it and his problem was solved. + +With regard to the voltage readings you are getting, they seem fine.","jnobby said: + + + + Thanks for the reply deepsea21. I have changed all the filters including cleaning the vst in this one motor and not the other but it continues to give me the same issues. The other runs like a top all the time this is the weird thing about it. + +Click to expand... + + +Ahh yes that wonderful VST filter burried deep inside the VST tank burried deep inside the engine (I'd love to get my hands around the neck of the Yamaha engineer who placed that tank and filter so deep inside the engine!) + +Are there separate fuel tanks or are both engines fed by one tank? I am wondering if it could be a fuel flow issue in which flow becomes insufficient at higher RPM's with both engines running and the fuel really being sucked from the tank(s). Regardless of whether or not you have twin tanks or a single fuel tank, get to the tank(s) and look for the fuel pick-up line that runs down inside the fuel tank and sits at the bottom. Pull the pick-up line and see if the manufacturer placed a little filter on the end of the pick-up line(s). Some manufacturers do and they NEVER EVER SHOULD as that is the last place anyone would think to look for a filter. As the engines run and suck fuel, particulate that could have been left in the tank since maufacture can begin to get stuck on that little filter... As you keep running, they keep sucking fuel and more gets stuck on it to the point it restricts flow... Then, you throttle back or shut down, fuel sloshes around in the tank and those particles drop off that little filter and start floating around again. Everything runs fine until it happens again they get again get stuck on that stupid little filter. There is absolutely no need for a filter on the end of the fuel pick-up line if you are running an in-line fuel-water seperator filter, and even if you aren't, no need for it as each engine has it's own fuel filter in the rear under the cowling. I had a friend who chased a ghost for months until someone told him about the possibiliity a stupid $2 filter could have been stuck on the end of that pick-up line. Sure enough, there was, and he got rid of it and his problem was solved. + +With regard to the voltage readings you are getting, they seem fine.","Glen, check your power supply, battery cables, if everything checks, jump the solenoid when the problem arise, some time solenoid develops an open coil symptom when hot, if it cranks change the solenoid." +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","I think the voltage issues is the problem. 12.4-14.7 is quite a dramatic change. Its fluctuations worry me. I change the Rectifier from one motor to the next and it did not change at the gauges. When I changed the ECU, however, the problem went from the Port gauge to the Star. gauge. I need to take it for a test run to see if it is the ecu. Has anyone had problems with their ecu on their F115??","I think the voltage issues is the problem. 12.4-14.7 is quite a dramatic change. Its fluctuations worry me. I change the Rectifier from one motor to the next and it did not change at the gauges. When I changed the ECU, however, the problem went from the Port gauge to the Star. gauge. I need to take it for a test run to see if it is the ecu. Has anyone had problems with their ecu on their F115??","Suggest that you post your question on the Johnson/Evinrude Forum on this site. Go to top left of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" then scroll down to the Johnson/Evinrude forum." +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","jnobby said: + + + + I think the voltage issues is the problem. 12.4-14.7 is quite a dramatic change. Its fluctuations worry me. I change the Rectifier from one motor to the next and it did not change at the gauges. When I changed the ECU, however, the problem went from the Port gauge to the Star. gauge. I need to take it for a test run to see if it is the ecu. Has anyone had problems with their ecu on their F115?? + +Click to expand... + + +No probs with the ECU on my 2002 Yamaha F115 with about 600 hrs on it. Voltage is a little over 12V cold and holds at 13.5 volts from idle to 6000RPM. But, now that sounds like you've found when the ECU is swapped the voltage issue you see moves with it. Would be interested to hear if the running problem moves with it as well as your experience is something new to me.","jnobby said: + + + + I think the voltage issues is the problem. 12.4-14.7 is quite a dramatic change. Its fluctuations worry me. I change the Rectifier from one motor to the next and it did not change at the gauges. When I changed the ECU, however, the problem went from the Port gauge to the Star. gauge. I need to take it for a test run to see if it is the ecu. Has anyone had problems with their ecu on their F115?? + +Click to expand... + + +No probs with the ECU on my 2002 Yamaha F115 with about 600 hrs on it. Voltage is a little over 12V cold and holds at 13.5 volts from idle to 6000RPM. But, now that sounds like you've found when the ECU is swapped the voltage issue you see moves with it. Would be interested to hear if the running problem moves with it as well as your experience is something new to me.","I went to walmart and got a bottle of Hull cleaner. Was amazed at what it did , turned a $ 500 boat into a $2 k boat in about 45 min. Use gloves though." +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","Well, the change of the ECU did NOT help my issue. Back to the drawing board and start all over again. Pulled the VST apart and checked the filter again and cleaned it so it was totally see through. Well, it actually did not take too much cleaning as it was pretty clean already. Still think it is a voltage problem as the gauge consistently moves. The Yam dealers here are grasping at straws as well. Had the injectors professionally cleaned new seals as well. Have not had it for a run since I cleaned the VST filter tonight. Thanks for all of the responses. deepsea21...I called the boat company and they said there is a filter on the end of the hose so will check out that as well.","Well, the change of the ECU did NOT help my issue. Back to the drawing board and start all over again. Pulled the VST apart and checked the filter again and cleaned it so it was totally see through. Well, it actually did not take too much cleaning as it was pretty clean already. Still think it is a voltage problem as the gauge consistently moves. The Yam dealers here are grasping at straws as well. Had the injectors professionally cleaned new seals as well. Have not had it for a run since I cleaned the VST filter tonight. Thanks for all of the responses. deepsea21...I called the boat company and they said there is a filter on the end of the hose so will check out that as well.",If money is not a problem a new motor is always the best choice for some folks. +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","jnobby said: + + + + Well, the change of the ECU did NOT help my issue. Back to the drawing board and start all over again. Pulled the VST apart and checked the filter again and cleaned it so it was totally see through. Well, it actually did not take too much cleaning as it was pretty clean already. Still think it is a voltage problem as the gauge consistently moves. The Yam dealers here are grasping at straws as well. Had the injectors professionally cleaned new seals as well. Have not had it for a run since I cleaned the VST filter tonight. Thanks for all of the responses. deepsea21...I called the boat company and they said there is a filter on the end of the hose so will check out that as well. + +Click to expand... + + +AHHHHH... so there is a filter on the fuel pick-up line! Don't just check it - GET RID OF IT and see what happens. It an seem clean and clear until it gets clogged with debris in the tank again while running. Let the other larger filters deal with any debris in the tank.","jnobby said: + + + + Well, the change of the ECU did NOT help my issue. Back to the drawing board and start all over again. Pulled the VST apart and checked the filter again and cleaned it so it was totally see through. Well, it actually did not take too much cleaning as it was pretty clean already. Still think it is a voltage problem as the gauge consistently moves. The Yam dealers here are grasping at straws as well. Had the injectors professionally cleaned new seals as well. Have not had it for a run since I cleaned the VST filter tonight. Thanks for all of the responses. deepsea21...I called the boat company and they said there is a filter on the end of the hose so will check out that as well. + +Click to expand... + + +AHHHHH... so there is a filter on the fuel pick-up line! Don't just check it - GET RID OF IT and see what happens. It an seem clean and clear until it gets clogged with debris in the tank again while running. Let the other larger filters deal with any debris in the tank.",click to enlarge +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John",I am thinking that if there is a restriction anywhere in a common fuel line it could cause one of the engines to kick even if they are both on the same fuel system - maybe the fuel line when it splits to each engine one line is a shorter run than the other - maybe one engine develops a bit more fuel suction than the other so a common restriction in the fuel line could cause a problem to show up in only one engine when they are both really trying to suck fuel.,I am thinking that if there is a restriction anywhere in a common fuel line it could cause one of the engines to kick even if they are both on the same fuel system - maybe the fuel line when it splits to each engine one line is a shorter run than the other - maybe one engine develops a bit more fuel suction than the other so a common restriction in the fuel line could cause a problem to show up in only one engine when they are both really trying to suck fuel.,"makomark said: + + + + There're a few.....personally, the Voyager's are OK but far from the 'best' - biggest objection is the advance curve is fixed and can't be altered.. + +whichever path you take, make sure the ""chosen part"" is marine rated (no vacuum advance)..... + +Click to expand... + + + + Agreed! +I just notice in the picture a ""vacuum advance"", My Bad +There, fix it + +Found one at Summit Racing (Marine) looks just like this one arced for 24 degrees and all aluminum housing $100 + I think that's the one, I'll look at it! +24 degrees is correct for my running at about 3500-4100 rpm, Right? +I'll set at 6 degrees. Oooooooh, that's close?!! I'm already maxed out at 30 degrees, correct? + Should be 28 degrees. + Ok, I'll set my ignition timing at 4 degrees! Perfect" +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John",Each line has its own pick-up and F/W separator therefore totally independent of one another. I checked the check valve and it is just fine blew on it both ways and it did what it was suppose to do. Spring works well. Going to take it for a burn tonight perhaps.,Each line has its own pick-up and F/W separator therefore totally independent of one another. I checked the check valve and it is just fine blew on it both ways and it did what it was suppose to do. Spring works well. Going to take it for a burn tonight perhaps.,"its your drive shaft seal +replace that and the water pump since your in there already" +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","jnobby said: + + + + Each line has its own pick-up and F/W separator therefore totally independent of one another. I checked the check valve and it is just fine blew on it both ways and it did what it was suppose to do. Spring works well. Going to take it for a burn tonight perhaps. + +Click to expand... + + +If there's a filter on that fuel pick-up line and you have separate tanks / separate F/W filters I'd pull or cut that filter off the pick-up line. It can seem clean an clear but remember what I said in the beginning - As the engines run and suck fuel, particulate that could have been left in the tank since maufacture can begin to get stuck on that little filter... As you keep running, they keep sucking fuel and more gets stuck on it to the point it restricts flow... Then, you throttle back or shut down, fuel sloshes around in the tank and those particles drop off that little filter and start floating around again. Everything runs fine until it happens again they get again get stuck on that stupid little filter.","jnobby said: + + + + Each line has its own pick-up and F/W separator therefore totally independent of one another. I checked the check valve and it is just fine blew on it both ways and it did what it was suppose to do. Spring works well. Going to take it for a burn tonight perhaps. + +Click to expand... + + +If there's a filter on that fuel pick-up line and you have separate tanks / separate F/W filters I'd pull or cut that filter off the pick-up line. It can seem clean an clear but remember what I said in the beginning - As the engines run and suck fuel, particulate that could have been left in the tank since maufacture can begin to get stuck on that little filter... As you keep running, they keep sucking fuel and more gets stuck on it to the point it restricts flow... Then, you throttle back or shut down, fuel sloshes around in the tank and those particles drop off that little filter and start floating around again. Everything runs fine until it happens again they get again get stuck on that stupid little filter.","Usually (actually almost all the time) an electronic application is cheaper to manufacture. Everyone gets hung up in OH| ""electronics"" so it must be expensive/better. Not so ,Also Mechanical is more failsafe, electro is proprietary and brings the manufacturer more money in repairs. (not to mention reprogramming etc.) Yes a carbed engine will get the same gas mileage as a fuel injection at the same sustained speed, which a boat motor doen't really change throttle positions as much as you do in your car around town (Carbed car has to rely on a lil squirt from the accelerator pump so as to make up for the lag of the vaccum decrease when you press the accelerator. so there is a little waste. almost unmeasurable except by epa standards. +At pgh boat show couple years ago I was in a discussion/negotiation to buy a merc 350 c.i. IO in a Cobalt. I was complaining about the Fuel injection, I did not want an additional electronic gizmo to break and strand me out on lake Erie or anywhere else. Merc rep later tracked me down and offered me the same new engine with a carborator option, (more money of course) he told me that Merc offers them with a carb as most experienced charter boat captains will not do electronic ignition. etc etc. and they do not want to strand or be liable for their paying passengers. +an + + + + + +Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + What OB's are direct injected? + +So if I buy a 200hp carbed it's as good on gas as a EFI?? +Then why make it? +Yea I had a 225Mer and the pumps were very costly!!! + +Click to expand..." +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","Just to be certain - I'm talking about a tiny filter that could have been placed on the end of the fuel pick-up line that sits down in the bottom of the fuel tank... It's the 1st filter fuel may have to pass through before it ever gets to any fuel lines, F/W filters, the fuel bulb or to the engine","Just to be certain - I'm talking about a tiny filter that could have been placed on the end of the fuel pick-up line that sits down in the bottom of the fuel tank... It's the 1st filter fuel may have to pass through before it ever gets to any fuel lines, F/W filters, the fuel bulb or to the engine","Ayuh,... Who knows,..?? + +You haven't said What the boat is, or What the motor is, or What the drive is, or What vintage any of it is... + +So, I'll Guess it's obsolete, 'n no longer needed..." +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","Yes, this is what I checked the other day. Check valve is operating perfectly. I blew into the hose and it seemed very free from obstruction. Remember that this pickup line is right beside the other and I have no problem with that other engine.","Yes, this is what I checked the other day. Check valve is operating perfectly. I blew into the hose and it seemed very free from obstruction. Remember that this pickup line is right beside the other and I have no problem with that other engine.","When you say won't start, what does it sound like as it tries to start? Is the timing set correct? It may be too advanced and stoping the piston from passing top dead centre. + +Stuart" +"Hello all. I am fairly new to this forum and would like to throw a question out to see if anyone has had the same problem. I have twin 115 Yams on my 2012 2360 Wac. The motor had 65 hrs on them when I got the boat and the issue was there then. My issue is this: My port motor kicks at certain RPM's usually 4000 or higher. The funny thing is that it does not happen all of the time. I can get it to WOT and keep it there for sometimes 1/2 a day then suddenly it starts to buck until I lower the RPM's down to 4000. It has gone on for a year now and I have chased it in many directions. I notice that sometimes my gauge on the dash will read 13.5-7 volts and the other motor always reads 14.4-6. The port motor, however, reads 14.4-6 volts as well at times seemingly with nothing wrong. I have been told it was a fuel problem and a dirty VST filter or injectors. +Here is what I have done so far: +1. Batteries + I have put a third battery and designated it to the house battery and now each motor also has a battery. I have also switched the batteries as well from motor to motor. Taken them out and had them inspected for charge and all good. I do have a VSR in the boat as well. + +2. Filters +I have changed all of the filters on the boat and motors including cleaning the VST filter in the port motor. + +3. Change of components from one motor to another +I have switched the wires, coils and plugs from motor to motor. + +4. Injectors +I have taken out and cleaned the injectors from the port motor. + +5. I have put a computer on it and no codes have shown up. (At idle speed) + +When I bought the boat I noticed that the previous owner had taken the 3rd battery out and left me with a ground lead which lead me to believe he may have changed the wires around in the VSR. I do have a wire in the setup that I am not sure should be there. I have seen a few schematics on this particular setup and never seen this wire setup. Could it be a power issue causing this?? + +I have spent a lot of time on the net to solve this issue as well as looking up schematics for the VSR and now I am posting on here for some assistance. I would appreciate any feedback one can share. +Regards +John","jnobby said: + + + + Yes, this is what I checked the other day. Check valve is operating perfectly. I blew into the hose and it seemed very free from obstruction. Remember that this pickup line is right beside the other and I have no problem with that other engine. + +Click to expand... + + +Understood. If both fuel pick-up lines are coming from the same tank that doesnt' seem like it would be the problem then. At least you know it's not the ECU after swapping that. + +Here's an idea - try swapping the coils between the engines. Coils have a way of performing fine when they are cold but as the get hot under an outboard engine cowling (just like inside an engine compartment of a car) their ability to build serious voltage to fire plugs can deteriorate as they age. They'll fire fine until you get to high RPM's and they get hot under the hood. When hot and at high RPM they have to be able to take and build a sufficient charge to create spark 6x as fast as at idle. If a coil is going bad, it can't build enough charge fast enough at high RPM when it gets hot - it can cause random misfires due to no spark until you decrease RPM and the coil again has more time to accept/build a charge between firings... For what it's worth at this point! Keep me posted.","jnobby said: + + + + Yes, this is what I checked the other day. Check valve is operating perfectly. I blew into the hose and it seemed very free from obstruction. Remember that this pickup line is right beside the other and I have no problem with that other engine. + +Click to expand... + + +Understood. If both fuel pick-up lines are coming from the same tank that doesnt' seem like it would be the problem then. At least you know it's not the ECU after swapping that. + +Here's an idea - try swapping the coils between the engines. Coils have a way of performing fine when they are cold but as the get hot under an outboard engine cowling (just like inside an engine compartment of a car) their ability to build serious voltage to fire plugs can deteriorate as they age. They'll fire fine until you get to high RPM's and they get hot under the hood. When hot and at high RPM they have to be able to take and build a sufficient charge to create spark 6x as fast as at idle. If a coil is going bad, it can't build enough charge fast enough at high RPM when it gets hot - it can cause random misfires due to no spark until you decrease RPM and the coil again has more time to accept/build a charge between firings... For what it's worth at this point! Keep me posted.","i will like to send you pics of my boat, + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... So post 'em here,.... + +Put yer photo on a hosting site, 'n link it back to this thread,... + +Smart Tabs might do a good job for ya,... + +Even if ya gotta move some of the hardware ya already got hangin' off the transom,...." +"Hi,my 55hp 2 stroke,2 cylinder is not sparking on the top cylinder when idling and when under load and put in neutral it will cut out as the plug is just getting soaked with fuel! +Thinking something to do with cdi unit. +Any ideas?",How did you check for spark? Are your sure you are getting no spark? Did you switch the sparkplugs to see if the top cylinder then runs and not the bottom? Did you switch the plug wires and see? Then the coils and see? - Trying to narrow it down. If you switch one and the problem moves you've found the problem.,How did you check for spark? Are your sure you are getting no spark? Did you switch the sparkplugs to see if the top cylinder then runs and not the bottom? Did you switch the plug wires and see? Then the coils and see? - Trying to narrow it down. If you switch one and the problem moves you've found the problem.,"mill686 said: + + + +Looking to purchase a trim gauge for my 2019 F70. I know the gauge is a white face 6Y7. What harness do I need? Any instructions or pictures to aid in installation? Thanks. + +Greg + +Click to expand... + +How many times do you want to be given the answer?" +I have a 2001 Yamaha 2 stroke 115HP on a Mako 19ft center console.Runs normally up to about half throttle but when you go to increase speed the engine acts like it loses power and wont throttle up.Has anybody experienced this and what was done to fix this?Any help is appreciated.Thanks,"99.9% certain you have a fuel flow restriction somewhere. Stop running the engine or you could fry piston rings & score cylinder walls as a cylinder may not be getting the fuel/oil mix it needs to properly lubricate. Fry rings and score walls you may as well place another mortgage on the house to pay for reboreing a cylinder and replacement of the cooked rings (I learned the hard way years ago). + +Replace all fuel filters and check for a ""ghost filter"" on the fuel line that sits down in the bottom of your fuel tank - if there is one there pull it off or cut it off as there is no need for it. Then buy 4 cans of jet spray carb cleaner and fully break down and clean all carbs. Back out those little brass fuel jets in the carbs and make sure the orifices are perfectly clean and clear. Blast carb cleaner through every hole and throughout those carbs you can find. Carb cleaner is cheap - Yamaha service at the dealer is expensive. + +I'd bet that will fix your problem. Going forward, do not use ethanol blended gas from a gas station to fuel your engine if real gas is available from a marine or a local gas station that carries it. Yes, it costs more but how much time do you want to spend tearing your engine apart year after year? Always add Marine (green) Sta-Bil with every fuel fill (not just for storage) to keep things clean.","99.9% certain you have a fuel flow restriction somewhere. Stop running the engine or you could fry piston rings & score cylinder walls as a cylinder may not be getting the fuel/oil mix it needs to properly lubricate. Fry rings and score walls you may as well place another mortgage on the house to pay for reboreing a cylinder and replacement of the cooked rings (I learned the hard way years ago). + +Replace all fuel filters and check for a ""ghost filter"" on the fuel line that sits down in the bottom of your fuel tank - if there is one there pull it off or cut it off as there is no need for it. Then buy 4 cans of jet spray carb cleaner and fully break down and clean all carbs. Back out those little brass fuel jets in the carbs and make sure the orifices are perfectly clean and clear. Blast carb cleaner through every hole and throughout those carbs you can find. Carb cleaner is cheap - Yamaha service at the dealer is expensive. + +I'd bet that will fix your problem. Going forward, do not use ethanol blended gas from a gas station to fuel your engine if real gas is available from a marine or a local gas station that carries it. Yes, it costs more but how much time do you want to spend tearing your engine apart year after year? Always add Marine (green) Sta-Bil with every fuel fill (not just for storage) to keep things clean.",Try and see if you tiller handle has the connectors to which the light assembly would attach. +"Hi +We are on a sailing yacht and our dingy's outboard has packed up after non-use for a few months. +Its a Yamaha 8hp 2005 series # 8CMH/6N0S.1011590/N. Two stroke. +It was impossible to crank over- I had put ""StoreOIl"" in cylinders and it appeared seized up- and couldnt pull cord. +So I took covers off the flywheel and used a large wrench to turn over- eventually loosened up and started engine. +THEN it wouldnt idle or hold revs- as soon as throttle back it would stop completely. +I dont think related to above initial problem. +So changed spark plugs and fuel filter and checked fuel delivery- all seems ok- still the problem. +So I guess next is the carburettor- however I can't determine which needle is which- low high or how many turns to reset. +Can anyone locate a diagram or manual page with instructions. +Otherwise any assistance will be appreciated. +Thanks +Mike","carb and fuel pump will need to be rebuilt + +i will post pics here soon + +shoot me email for manual pics","carb and fuel pump will need to be rebuilt + +i will post pics here soon + +shoot me email for manual pics","Ayuh,... Don't ask the Same question in multiple forums,... +It leads to Confusion..." +"Hi +We are on a sailing yacht and our dingy's outboard has packed up after non-use for a few months. +Its a Yamaha 8hp 2005 series # 8CMH/6N0S.1011590/N. Two stroke. +It was impossible to crank over- I had put ""StoreOIl"" in cylinders and it appeared seized up- and couldnt pull cord. +So I took covers off the flywheel and used a large wrench to turn over- eventually loosened up and started engine. +THEN it wouldnt idle or hold revs- as soon as throttle back it would stop completely. +I dont think related to above initial problem. +So changed spark plugs and fuel filter and checked fuel delivery- all seems ok- still the problem. +So I guess next is the carburettor- however I can't determine which needle is which- low high or how many turns to reset. +Can anyone locate a diagram or manual page with instructions. +Otherwise any assistance will be appreciated. +Thanks +Mike","I have the same motor. My problem is no water coming out of the weep hole. I checked the impeller and it seemed fine. I tried flushing with a pipe cleaner and white crumbs keep coming out along with drops of water. Can anybody suggest a solution? +I left off with seeing exhaust fumes coming out with it spitting water.","I have the same motor. My problem is no water coming out of the weep hole. I checked the impeller and it seemed fine. I tried flushing with a pipe cleaner and white crumbs keep coming out along with drops of water. Can anybody suggest a solution? +I left off with seeing exhaust fumes coming out with it spitting water.","There is more to it than the driveshaft moving "" up and down ""--------Have you looked at the gear teeth and bearings , yes or no?-----A shop would use shimming tools to put the gears in the correct position.-----And on most motors with gears shimmed correctly there is up and down movement of the driveshaft." +"My engine is a 2007 with 194 hrs on it. If out on the water there is a slick coming on the surface in little bursts every 10 seconds or so whilst trolling at 1000rpm. When stood still on tickover the slick seems constant and extreme. Fuel economy seems very bad but i could be imagining this ( 5 litres fuel in 4hrs at 1000rpm) There is not a smell of petrol so i guess its oil. The cavitation plates have oil thats clear and clean looking on them but the engine oil levels not going down at all or so it seems. I run the engine in a barrel of water and theres nothing on the surface hardly. and the engine runs perfect too. Wheres it coming from, my head is wrecked ☺","Ive checked more thoroughly today, and the oil is clearly dripping from the small exhaust hole directly below the engine cowl clip. The oil is still clear and viscous. Is this a sign of broken rings or scarred barrel ? Will a compression test tell me anything as the engine is running perfectly. Help☺","Ive checked more thoroughly today, and the oil is clearly dripping from the small exhaust hole directly below the engine cowl clip. The oil is still clear and viscous. Is this a sign of broken rings or scarred barrel ? Will a compression test tell me anything as the engine is running perfectly. Help☺","This should get you started - I copied this some time ago from bluesea.com. + +Hope this works...." +"Hey guys - My twin Yamaha's 250's seem to have an issue with turning off while running at higher RPM's. It's happened 2-3x. They've never done it at the same time, but it's happened to either engine with no warning - it will just quit. + +Water / Fuel filters are new and clean. Hours - 350 each. Engines are meticulously cared for by Yamaha mechanic. Fuel is 87 octane from land gas station. I use Startron and RingFree at each fill. + +Yesterday, motor ran great for 30 minute run, then sat for 4 hours moored, with motors tilted. After 4-5 hours, she started right up and then when accelerating, after 3-4 minutes, motor quit. After 10 minutes of trying to restart, she finally started and ran flawlessly again. + +What do you think is going on ? + +Thanks",Any ideas ?,Any ideas ?,"Does the primer ball go hard when you squeeze it ?----If not then there may be an issue with the float valve or with the diaphragm in the fuel pump.----Have you checked to make sure there is spark on both that will jump a gap of 3/8"" or better.-------These engines will run quite well on one cylinder !" +"Hey guys - My twin Yamaha's 250's seem to have an issue with turning off while running at higher RPM's. It's happened 2-3x. They've never done it at the same time, but it's happened to either engine with no warning - it will just quit. + +Water / Fuel filters are new and clean. Hours - 350 each. Engines are meticulously cared for by Yamaha mechanic. Fuel is 87 octane from land gas station. I use Startron and RingFree at each fill. + +Yesterday, motor ran great for 30 minute run, then sat for 4 hours moored, with motors tilted. After 4-5 hours, she started right up and then when accelerating, after 3-4 minutes, motor quit. After 10 minutes of trying to restart, she finally started and ran flawlessly again. + +What do you think is going on ? + +Thanks",Bueller ? Bueller ?,Bueller ? Bueller ?,"Have you changed or at least checked the lower unit lube? If it is new to you a change would be recommended, there's no telling how old the stuff is." +"Hey guys - My twin Yamaha's 250's seem to have an issue with turning off while running at higher RPM's. It's happened 2-3x. They've never done it at the same time, but it's happened to either engine with no warning - it will just quit. + +Water / Fuel filters are new and clean. Hours - 350 each. Engines are meticulously cared for by Yamaha mechanic. Fuel is 87 octane from land gas station. I use Startron and RingFree at each fill. + +Yesterday, motor ran great for 30 minute run, then sat for 4 hours moored, with motors tilted. After 4-5 hours, she started right up and then when accelerating, after 3-4 minutes, motor quit. After 10 minutes of trying to restart, she finally started and ran flawlessly again. + +What do you think is going on ? + +Thanks",Ive seen that movie too! lol,Ive seen that movie too! lol,"Thanks for the replies! + +Yamaha 15 HP 2 Stroke 15MSH 684K S 1072241 + +Date of purchase 11/08/2010 + +I have confirmed spark on both plugs- fuel does come out of drain on carb when screw removed and bulb primed + +Had some luck starting the engine while manually adjusting the throttle lever on the carburetor as the linkage that attaches under the tiller handle is loose- + +However while it was running i noticed gas slow dripping out of the carburetor- looks like it was coming from above the drain screw maybe the bowl gasket + +so despite the gaskets passing the eye test while cleaning the carb i have order a carb kit/fuel pump...ill post back after it arrives + +thanks!!!" +"Model #40PLRR. Carbs are clean. Brand new tank, line, hose and bulb. Will crank right up and run if I choke the carbs with my hand. Move hand and it dies. Cleaned all the carbs three times. Kept pumping on bulb to see it that would help to no luck.","If you've cleaned the carbs 3 times I imagine you backout out the brass fuel jets and made sure those tiny orifices are perfectly clean and clear? Will it start without choking the carbs if you open the throttle more? If so, perhaps the idle speed needs to be increased. Remember one thing about setting the idle speed via the idle speed adjustment screws... Always set the idle with the boat in the water and engine's lower unit submerged in the water (not hooked up to earmuffs on land). If the idle is set while hooked up to earmuffs on land it will almost never idle when in the water due to the backpressure created by the exhaust (think of blowing through a straw sunk in a deep glass of water vs. blowing through one that isn't)... Takes more fuel/combustion to force that exhaust under pressure down below the water line and out through the hub.","If you've cleaned the carbs 3 times I imagine you backout out the brass fuel jets and made sure those tiny orifices are perfectly clean and clear? Will it start without choking the carbs if you open the throttle more? If so, perhaps the idle speed needs to be increased. Remember one thing about setting the idle speed via the idle speed adjustment screws... Always set the idle with the boat in the water and engine's lower unit submerged in the water (not hooked up to earmuffs on land). If the idle is set while hooked up to earmuffs on land it will almost never idle when in the water due to the backpressure created by the exhaust (think of blowing through a straw sunk in a deep glass of water vs. blowing through one that isn't)... Takes more fuel/combustion to force that exhaust under pressure down below the water line and out through the hub.", +"Can someone tell me if the parts numbers have to be exactly the same for them to work on a yamaha 1989 90 hp and a 1992 90 hp ?? this is for the flywheel. the two part number are 6H0-85550-00-00 and 688-85550-13-00 + +Thanks","bass_tracker said: + + + + Can someone tell me if the parts numbers have to be exactly the same for them to work on a yamaha 1989 90 hp and a 1992 90 hp ?? this is for the flywheel. the two part number are 6H0-85550-00-00 and 688-85550-13-00 + +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +That is known as the ""Rotor Assembly"". Can't tell by the diagrams for those engines if they are identical or not. Generally, you'll find the same part # across multiple years of engines. If the part # changes there has usually been a change made to the part. Try contacting Sim Yamaha and ask them. Sim Yahama has always been great at answering questions and if they have the answer you're looking for, order the part from them.","bass_tracker said: + + + + Can someone tell me if the parts numbers have to be exactly the same for them to work on a yamaha 1989 90 hp and a 1992 90 hp ?? this is for the flywheel. the two part number are 6H0-85550-00-00 and 688-85550-13-00 + +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +That is known as the ""Rotor Assembly"". Can't tell by the diagrams for those engines if they are identical or not. Generally, you'll find the same part # across multiple years of engines. If the part # changes there has usually been a change made to the part. Try contacting Sim Yamaha and ask them. Sim Yahama has always been great at answering questions and if they have the answer you're looking for, order the part from them.","TM. Probably not worth repair unless you can do it yourself or get it to a school with a good instructor. Alternatively, you can price out parts/gaskets at Tim's Outboard Hackensack MN. 218 682 2331. It really needs a close exam to truly determine the exact cause as well as the extent of the damage." +"Can someone tell me if the parts numbers have to be exactly the same for them to work on a yamaha 1989 90 hp and a 1992 90 hp ?? this is for the flywheel. the two part number are 6H0-85550-00-00 and 688-85550-13-00 + +Thanks",Okay. try,Okay. try,"Thanks for the response. I apologize for not responding sooner. I pulled the intake manifold unit off, not that tough of a job, disassemble the VST tank, checked the filter on the bottom of the pump motor, some debree, but nothing that would restrick the fuel flow. Pulled spark plugs to see if any were gas fouled. All were dry which indicates none of the injectors are leaking. Checked the inline filter that goes from the fuel pump assy to the VST tank, clear. Made sure all fuel lines are clear. Checked the pickup in the fuel tank, not clogged. I've changed all the other filters. No difference in motor performance. Now looking at some of the parts diagrams on line I notice a couple of other parts that I think maybe causing a problem. After pulling up some parts websites I notice there is a Pressure regulator. It is under the FUEL INJECTION NOZZLE category item # 9. Then looking under the FUEL 1 category #14, fuel pump assy, there are two diaphrams. And then under the INTAKE 2 category, #13 is a filter assy that mounts under the fuel control valve assy. Could someone tell me if they have experience any problems with these items? I would appreciate any help. +Thanks" +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,Check the battery rigging cable. They go bad and cause a voltage drop during cranking.,Check the battery rigging cable. They go bad and cause a voltage drop during cranking.,Great thanks for the info. When I get home and check it out I'll let you know! Hopefully it will be an easy fix! +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,Cleaned battery cables. Blows fuse on Battery both #1 and #2. Only blows fuse when I crank it. Can I run a jumper cable from Battery right to starter and ground -- to bypass cables going through transom? Could they be half broken? Or do I have to hire someone with a scaner? Thanks For Your Help. John Waterloo,Cleaned battery cables. Blows fuse on Battery both #1 and #2. Only blows fuse when I crank it. Can I run a jumper cable from Battery right to starter and ground -- to bypass cables going through transom? Could they be half broken? Or do I have to hire someone with a scaner? Thanks For Your Help. John Waterloo,"Hi everyone, + + Just wanted to give the guys who helped me a update....well i got the new seats/ carpet in...new radio and all the bells and whisles.....runs like a dream also. so it looks like my season is going to be a great one! thanks again! + + Ken" +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,Put a meter on the positive battery cable at the starter and note what the voltage is while cranking.,Put a meter on the positive battery cable at the starter and note what the voltage is while cranking.,"chawk_man said: + + + +View attachment 3384 + +Click to expand... + + +Ahem..... If wired like this with a conventional 12 V buzzer, the bilge pump will never ""see"" a full 12 Volts when on!. If the buzzer is a special built current sense alarm intended for this hookup you are OK. Who is the Manufacturer and what is P/N of your alarm?" +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,THANKS for the advice. Things changed. Now it blows ign fuse as soon I turn key on with original set up. Disconnected original cables and Ran a jumper straight to battery and pops fuse as soon as key is turned. At least now it does the same all the time and I bought a box of 25 fuses. Any other Ideas would be welcome. Thanks Again John,THANKS for the advice. Things changed. Now it blows ign fuse as soon I turn key on with original set up. Disconnected original cables and Ran a jumper straight to battery and pops fuse as soon as key is turned. At least now it does the same all the time and I bought a box of 25 fuses. Any other Ideas would be welcome. Thanks Again John,Yamaha LIT-18616-01-96 f75/f80/f90/f100 +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,"So it is probably either: +- the main power wire from the starter switch back to the engine +- an issue with the engine electronics +- or quite possibly an issue with the switch itself + +The switch would be my first thing to check as they are not an uncommon fault. You need to pull the wiring diagram and identify the +ve wire from the switch back to the engine so you can try bypassing the switch. You can even do the bypass at the engine with a bit of fiddling so that you bypass the wiring loom as well.","So it is probably either: +- the main power wire from the starter switch back to the engine +- an issue with the engine electronics +- or quite possibly an issue with the switch itself + +The switch would be my first thing to check as they are not an uncommon fault. You need to pull the wiring diagram and identify the +ve wire from the switch back to the engine so you can try bypassing the switch. You can even do the bypass at the engine with a bit of fiddling so that you bypass the wiring loom as well.",Try corrugated flexible plastic piping with plastic wire ties as seen on the merc. wiring harness +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?if so then set the meter on rx1 and zero it...disconnect the positive lead at the battery...take a reading from the disconnected lead to motor ground....write the reading down...then turn the key to on....take a reading and write it down...now turn the key to start...take a reading and get back to us with the 3 readings please..,do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?if so then set the meter on rx1 and zero it...disconnect the positive lead at the battery...take a reading from the disconnected lead to motor ground....write the reading down...then turn the key to on....take a reading and write it down...now turn the key to start...take a reading and get back to us with the 3 readings please..,"Let's back up a minute. What engine does this wire harnes come from? (I think most of those early Inca's had something like a Crusader 220, which is equivalent to a GM 305.) You will likely need to identify the function of each wire coming out of the wiring harnes from the engine, based on its color, or based on what it is connected to on the engine. If it is an old Crusader or GM, that will be pretty simple to do. They are not very complicated. Most of that stuff is posted on the web or the owners manual for your particular engine. Let me know if it's a Crusader, because I think I still have the wiring diagram somewhere in my files. + +I would start by tracing each of the wires in picture 1 back to the engine to make sure nothing has been spliced into them and that the color coming out of the engine is the same color coming into your console. + +Picture 2 looks like it is just the brace for the helm. I see no reason you can't temporarily remove it to get more working space. + +Pictures 3 & 4 - Replace that plug with a new round one that has the same number or more pins, and has a moisture seal all around - at the plug interface and on each end where the wires enter the plug. Use plenty of liquid tape (neoprene) on each end to form a good moisture barrier. Before removing that plug map each of the wires in both directions and determine it's function. Write it down and take plenty of pictures. + +Your biggest challenge is going to be wiring up the ignition switch correctly so it incorporates the kill switch on your safety lanyard, and your alarm buzzer. If those two items are currently working, then simply duplicate the way they are currently wired. Also, if you have a tachometer that is working on the current engine, I would leave that alone unless the wire is in bad shape. + +Finally, before digging into this project, do yourself a favor. Get down next to the engine and get a wad of paper towels and rub them over the bottom of the oil pan. See if you have any oil on the paper towels. These engines were notorious for rusted out oil pans. If you see oil on the paper towels, use your fingers to gently probe the bottom of the oil pan. If it is soft, or highly scaled, you will likely need to pull the engine and replace the oil pan. If not, then look for the source of the leaking oil. It may be just the valve covers, which were also notorious for leaking. For most engines, they make a cast aluminum oil pan that will not rust out." +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,I am working on getting a multimeter. My old one is not working. By the way I have twin engines so I could try switching some parts but don't want to end up with 2 motors not working. LOL Thanks John,I am working on getting a multimeter. My old one is not working. By the way I have twin engines so I could try switching some parts but don't want to end up with 2 motors not working. LOL Thanks John,"It does sound like a fuel problem so just follow the system from one end to the other. Start with the tank: is the vent open properly? Are the valves in the bulb in the fuel line working correctly? Are the fittings on the fuel line seated properly? You've already done the filter so next is the fuel pump. Make sure it is sealed well, the reed valves and clean and correctly aligned and the membranes aren't torn or frayed. The final step in the fuel system is going to be carburettors which may need a clean. + +Also, any chance it is an overheat situation? + +Stuart" +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,when you say it blows with the ''key on'' do you mean the on or the start position?,when you say it blows with the ''key on'' do you mean the on or the start position?,"I guess the simplest fix would be to order a 25hp 3 cylinder intake, since the 25hp Yamaha's did not come with oil injection. Then I would not have the oil injection ports to deal with. + +However, I have 40hp Tohatsu carb’s, I guess they would still bolt up??" +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,It blows fuse as soon as I turn key to on position right now.,It blows fuse as soon as I turn key to on position right now.,"I forgot to mention in the original post that the engine will run rough like it is in the video for about 10 minutes, and then it runs fine for the rest of the trip. + +Please help. The fish are getting away." +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,"Readings in the 20K position +Base line w/both meter wires together .03 +Disconected lead to ground 0 +ign. on 3.28 +start position .03 +Thanks John","Readings in the 20K position +Base line w/both meter wires together .03 +Disconected lead to ground 0 +ign. on 3.28 +start position .03 +Thanks John", +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,"''Disconected lead to ground 0''....do you mean no reading(infinity) or zero ohms? + +if infinity then disconnect the wires to the pick of the starter solenoid..then disconnect and separate the wires at the positive post of the solenoid.. with these wires disconnected what is the reading with the meter leads in the same place..(with the switch to start)_ + +the pick is the small terminals on the solenoid,....when the start switch is off the kill switch is connected to the power pack and grounds it to kill the engine..when it is on this line is floating...when it goes to start then 12 volts are supplied to the pick of the solenoid..what we are doing is isolating each positive wire in the starter area...one of these wires will also feed other areas with 12 volts...there is a possibility that the regulator is the culpit...this is one of those wires..i am operating without a wiring diagram so if anyone wants to step in feel welcome...","''Disconected lead to ground 0''....do you mean no reading(infinity) or zero ohms? + +if infinity then disconnect the wires to the pick of the starter solenoid..then disconnect and separate the wires at the positive post of the solenoid.. with these wires disconnected what is the reading with the meter leads in the same place..(with the switch to start)_ + +the pick is the small terminals on the solenoid,....when the start switch is off the kill switch is connected to the power pack and grounds it to kill the engine..when it is on this line is floating...when it goes to start then 12 volts are supplied to the pick of the solenoid..what we are doing is isolating each positive wire in the starter area...one of these wires will also feed other areas with 12 volts...there is a possibility that the regulator is the culpit...this is one of those wires..i am operating without a wiring diagram so if anyone wants to step in feel welcome...","In my opinion, a color chart is far superior. It helps distinguish betweeen bait and bigger fish, and also helps better identify any thermocline that you may be cruising over. On my Garmin, fish show up in orange, debris in light blue, and thermoclines in blue/grey." +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,I finally was able to get a dock side mechanic to look at motor. He knows just a little more than me so after calling 6 yes 6 different people I was glad to see him. Long story short . When we switched ECM mounted on heat sink and 6 coils and spark plug wires from other motor it worked. Any possibility it could be anything else in the assembly besides the ECM? He says I need a ECM which I can buy myself. $1800.00 list. I have not started shopping. All mechanics in FL.Keys are way too busy. Thanks for any input. John,I finally was able to get a dock side mechanic to look at motor. He knows just a little more than me so after calling 6 yes 6 different people I was glad to see him. Long story short . When we switched ECM mounted on heat sink and 6 coils and spark plug wires from other motor it worked. Any possibility it could be anything else in the assembly besides the ECM? He says I need a ECM which I can buy myself. $1800.00 list. I have not started shopping. All mechanics in FL.Keys are way too busy. Thanks for any input. John,"Unless its a 'smart charger', staying plugged in usually shortens battery life..... + +cheap ones usually go 3-5 years.....brand names about double that.....with proper maintenance in a decent installation...." +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,Sorry List price was $1500.00 John,Sorry List price was $1500.00 John,"Yeah i was under that assumption but being that i have no clue what wires signal what or ground what i have nothing to go off. Ive spent quite a few hours searching for a diagram or a schematic with no results. I cant even find a service manual because all the ones ive found are all for much newer models of mariner, but thank you im going to try to look it all over maybe ive missed something obvious." +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,Finding out the correct name for part is 68F-8591B-00-00 yamaha driver Found a few used on ebay around $400. Has anybody heard of these going bad? This must be problem but I wish I could tell for sure. Thanks For Listening! John,Finding out the correct name for part is 68F-8591B-00-00 yamaha driver Found a few used on ebay around $400. Has anybody heard of these going bad? This must be problem but I wish I could tell for sure. Thanks For Listening! John,"Engine oil or Gear Oil? + +What engine do you have?" +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,"I been following your problem. I also have twin HPDI 150,. Hope I don't have your problem but like to know what fixed it. +One thing you said you swapped the coils and spark plug wires alone with the ECM . Did you try to returning the coils and wires to see if it blows the fuse. Leave the ECM on the good engine and see if blows the fuse. Before I spend $$$ I would like to know. +I just had a mechanic tell me that my twin start switch was bad because I had two different problems on each engine. Well after spending close to 300 dollars he was wrong. One was a started ground wire goin to the relay was bad and the other was just fouled plugs. Can't assume anything .Keep checking before you spend the big bucks . Good luck. Let me know what you find.","I been following your problem. I also have twin HPDI 150,. Hope I don't have your problem but like to know what fixed it. +One thing you said you swapped the coils and spark plug wires alone with the ECM . Did you try to returning the coils and wires to see if it blows the fuse. Leave the ECM on the good engine and see if blows the fuse. Before I spend $$$ I would like to know. +I just had a mechanic tell me that my twin start switch was bad because I had two different problems on each engine. Well after spending close to 300 dollars he was wrong. One was a started ground wire goin to the relay was bad and the other was just fouled plugs. Can't assume anything .Keep checking before you spend the big bucks . Good luck. Let me know what you find.",Got it. Thanks for your help. +Blows fuse every once in a while. Could it be a bad battery? Or any ideas would welcome. Thanks John,"Waterloo said: + + + + I finally was able to get a dock side mechanic to look at motor. He knows just a little more than me so after calling 6 yes 6 different people I was glad to see him. Long story short . When we switched ECM mounted on heat sink and 6 coils and spark plug wires from other motor it worked. Any possibility it could be anything else in the assembly besides the ECM? He says I need a ECM which I can buy myself. $1800.00 list. I have not started shopping. All mechanics in FL.Keys are way too busy. Thanks for any input. John + +Click to expand... + + +Part of this is irrelevant. The coils and plug wires have no power when engine is off or even with keyswitch to the on position. + +Don't throw your money away yet, or send me some for saving you a ton of $$. + +First, remove blown fuse. Connect meter red lead to one side of fuse and black lead to ground, use volts DC scale. Turn switch to on, should read 12+ volts. If not, connect red lead to other side of fuse, now should see voltage. + +Now we know which side of fuse is positive/negative side, turn switch off. Now connect red lead to negative side of that fuse block, connect black lead to engine ground. Turn meter to ohms scale. Since we know something is shorted/grounded, the meter should read > 1 ohm. If it was ok, the meter would read 0 or infinity. + +Now, all you can do is start disconnecting the wires to each component (which is fed from the negative side of the fuse and this could be quite a few different wiring connections). You really need a wiring diagram unless you know the engine wiring. Most people don't and even with a diagram it can get very confusing. + +For each wire you disconnect, look at meter. When resistance goes to 0 or infinity...You've now found the problem!","Waterloo said: + + + + I finally was able to get a dock side mechanic to look at motor. He knows just a little more than me so after calling 6 yes 6 different people I was glad to see him. Long story short . When we switched ECM mounted on heat sink and 6 coils and spark plug wires from other motor it worked. Any possibility it could be anything else in the assembly besides the ECM? He says I need a ECM which I can buy myself. $1800.00 list. I have not started shopping. All mechanics in FL.Keys are way too busy. Thanks for any input. John + +Click to expand... + + +Part of this is irrelevant. The coils and plug wires have no power when engine is off or even with keyswitch to the on position. + +Don't throw your money away yet, or send me some for saving you a ton of $$. + +First, remove blown fuse. Connect meter red lead to one side of fuse and black lead to ground, use volts DC scale. Turn switch to on, should read 12+ volts. If not, connect red lead to other side of fuse, now should see voltage. + +Now we know which side of fuse is positive/negative side, turn switch off. Now connect red lead to negative side of that fuse block, connect black lead to engine ground. Turn meter to ohms scale. Since we know something is shorted/grounded, the meter should read > 1 ohm. If it was ok, the meter would read 0 or infinity. + +Now, all you can do is start disconnecting the wires to each component (which is fed from the negative side of the fuse and this could be quite a few different wiring connections). You really need a wiring diagram unless you know the engine wiring. Most people don't and even with a diagram it can get very confusing. + +For each wire you disconnect, look at meter. When resistance goes to 0 or infinity...You've now found the problem!",Have you the complete model name or the primary ID? Latter begins with the number 6. +"Hi, I have just been given a Yamaha outboard motor.The person who gave it to me has no idea of its history other than it was found in a shed that was part of a deceased estate. The only ID. i have is on the engine cowell it has Yamaha P95 written on it. I would like as much info. as possible on this motor please such as year model & horsepower.","You will have a tag stamped on it, that motor is from like 1988 up to 1996 I think","You will have a tag stamped on it, that motor is from like 1988 up to 1996 I think", +"Hi, I have just been given a Yamaha outboard motor.The person who gave it to me has no idea of its history other than it was found in a shed that was part of a deceased estate. The only ID. i have is on the engine cowell it has Yamaha P95 written on it. I would like as much info. as possible on this motor please such as year model & horsepower.",I know this post is old but i was just able to pick one of these up clean and real cheap. they had the original manual in great shape which has some good info in it. So if anyone is searching for info on one of these motors as i was feel free to reach out and i can get you whats in the manual. [email protected],I know this post is old but i was just able to pick one of these up clean and real cheap. they had the original manual in great shape which has some good info in it. So if anyone is searching for info on one of these motors as i was feel free to reach out and i can get you whats in the manual. [email protected],Those mags were known to have bad rotors shorting to ground. +"This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys?","mmather243 said: + + + + This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys? + +Click to expand... + + +Have you been running ethanol blended gas in it? If so that is probably your problem. By choking the engine you were manually feeding more fuel to it through the carb that was probably clogged and couldn't deliver enough fuel without choking it. + +Buy a couple of cans of jet spray carb cleaner (carb cleaner is cheap and the outboard service center is expensive). Pull the carb, take it all apart (everything you can take apart including the little brass fuel jet and fuel bowl taken out & off) and blast that carb cleaner through every orifice you can find. Check the little hole in that brass fuel jet and make sure it is perfectly clean and clear. If it isn't, run a little piece of COPPER wire through it (softer than brass) and clean out any gum the carb cleaner spray couldn't blast away. + +If there is old ethanol blended fuel in your tank get rid of it. How you dispose of it is your own business (have a trash pile that needs burned?) Put fresh fuel in, hook up the fuel line and pump the bulb with someone back by the engine to catch the fuel in a cup as it squirts out from the fuel line that would feed the carb you've pulled and have cleaned. Keep pumping and squirting to get all that old fuel out of the lines. + +Put it all back together and then re-pump the fuel bulb until you get resistance and it is hard as that means the fuel bowl is filled. Then, see if she fires up. + + +An engine is simple... you need air, spark and fuel.","mmather243 said: + + + + This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys? + +Click to expand... + + +Have you been running ethanol blended gas in it? If so that is probably your problem. By choking the engine you were manually feeding more fuel to it through the carb that was probably clogged and couldn't deliver enough fuel without choking it. + +Buy a couple of cans of jet spray carb cleaner (carb cleaner is cheap and the outboard service center is expensive). Pull the carb, take it all apart (everything you can take apart including the little brass fuel jet and fuel bowl taken out & off) and blast that carb cleaner through every orifice you can find. Check the little hole in that brass fuel jet and make sure it is perfectly clean and clear. If it isn't, run a little piece of COPPER wire through it (softer than brass) and clean out any gum the carb cleaner spray couldn't blast away. + +If there is old ethanol blended fuel in your tank get rid of it. How you dispose of it is your own business (have a trash pile that needs burned?) Put fresh fuel in, hook up the fuel line and pump the bulb with someone back by the engine to catch the fuel in a cup as it squirts out from the fuel line that would feed the carb you've pulled and have cleaned. Keep pumping and squirting to get all that old fuel out of the lines. + +Put it all back together and then re-pump the fuel bulb until you get resistance and it is hard as that means the fuel bowl is filled. Then, see if she fires up. + + +An engine is simple... you need air, spark and fuel.","If the steering box is mounted correctly, I'd suspect one of two things occurred: 1) the steering wheel was not oriented correctly when the cable was installed or 2) the ""link"" at the outdrive wasn't adjusted to ""align"" the system when going straight. + +If the link you have is fixed, I'd re-install the steering cable per the teleflex directions (most are on the web if you search some)." +"This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys?","I'm getting fuel in the cylinders. Plugs aren't firing. + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Have you been running ethanol blended gas in it? If so that is probably your problem. By choking the engine you were manually feeding more fuel to it through the carb that was probably clogged and couldn't deliver enough fuel without choking it. + +Buy a couple of cans of jet spray carb cleaner (carb cleaner is cheap and the outboard service center is expensive). Pull the carb, take it all apart (everything you can take apart including the little brass fuel jet and fuel bowl taken out & off) and blast that carb cleaner through every orifice you can find. Check the little hole in that brass fuel jet and make sure it is perfectly clean and clear. If it isn't, run a little piece of COPPER wire through it (softer than brass) and clean out any gum the carb cleaner spray couldn't blast away. + +If there is old ethanol blended fuel in your tank get rid of it. How you dispose of it is your own business (have a trash pile that needs burned?) Put fresh fuel in, hook up the fuel line and pump the bulb with someone back by the engine to catch the fuel in a cup as it squirts out from the fuel line that would feed the carb you've pulled and have cleaned. Keep pumping and squirting to get all that old fuel out of the lines. + +Put it all back together and then re-pump the fuel bulb until you get resistance and it is hard as that means the fuel bowl is filled. Then, see if she fires up. + + +An engine is simple... you need air, spark and fuel. + +Click to expand...","I'm getting fuel in the cylinders. Plugs aren't firing. + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Have you been running ethanol blended gas in it? If so that is probably your problem. By choking the engine you were manually feeding more fuel to it through the carb that was probably clogged and couldn't deliver enough fuel without choking it. + +Buy a couple of cans of jet spray carb cleaner (carb cleaner is cheap and the outboard service center is expensive). Pull the carb, take it all apart (everything you can take apart including the little brass fuel jet and fuel bowl taken out & off) and blast that carb cleaner through every orifice you can find. Check the little hole in that brass fuel jet and make sure it is perfectly clean and clear. If it isn't, run a little piece of COPPER wire through it (softer than brass) and clean out any gum the carb cleaner spray couldn't blast away. + +If there is old ethanol blended fuel in your tank get rid of it. How you dispose of it is your own business (have a trash pile that needs burned?) Put fresh fuel in, hook up the fuel line and pump the bulb with someone back by the engine to catch the fuel in a cup as it squirts out from the fuel line that would feed the carb you've pulled and have cleaned. Keep pumping and squirting to get all that old fuel out of the lines. + +Put it all back together and then re-pump the fuel bulb until you get resistance and it is hard as that means the fuel bowl is filled. Then, see if she fires up. + + +An engine is simple... you need air, spark and fuel. + +Click to expand...",Correct the powerhead I purchased did not come with the flywheel. Part is no longer available but there are a few on eBay. +"This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys?","How did you check for spark? Are you absolutely certain you are not getting spark? Are you willing to pull the plug wires from all plugs, stick you finger in them touching the copper cap inside, and let someone else give the engine a pull with you finger stuck in the plug wires? Lots of people say they get no spark but they pulled the plug, put the wire on it and tried to ground the plug to some part of the engine (which has is usually painted and paint = no good (-) ground).","How did you check for spark? Are you absolutely certain you are not getting spark? Are you willing to pull the plug wires from all plugs, stick you finger in them touching the copper cap inside, and let someone else give the engine a pull with you finger stuck in the plug wires? Lots of people say they get no spark but they pulled the plug, put the wire on it and tried to ground the plug to some part of the engine (which has is usually painted and paint = no good (-) ground).","faztbullet said: + + + + Turn it upside down..... + +Click to expand... + + +Wow, that was the ticket. Thank you. +Once I hooked up the shift linkage I turned it upside down and 2 mins later it was in. +Much appreciated. +Gravity is my friend !!" +"This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys?","Also remember... Old stale fuel will not fire. Your plugs may be wet but they can be wet with old stale fuel that will not fire. Another way to check for spark is to buy a can of engine starting fluid. Pull each plug and spray some starting fluid in the cylinders one by one replacing each plug as soon as you've sprayed into that cylinder. Then, give it a crank and see if it fires one or two times. If it fires just once or twice with a few kicks, you have spark.","Also remember... Old stale fuel will not fire. Your plugs may be wet but they can be wet with old stale fuel that will not fire. Another way to check for spark is to buy a can of engine starting fluid. Pull each plug and spray some starting fluid in the cylinders one by one replacing each plug as soon as you've sprayed into that cylinder. Then, give it a crank and see if it fires one or two times. If it fires just once or twice with a few kicks, you have spark.","get a spark tester or build one with nails and a piece of wood.You should have a video diy.You said its getting fuel, Are plugs wet with fuel and oil?age of motor?hours on engine,new fuel in tank? I meant You tube might have a video on constructing spark tester." +"This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys?",starting fluid is not a good idea guys It has no lubricating properties!Can damage engine.But it does work. Build a spark tester or buy 1 at auto part store.,starting fluid is not a good idea guys It has no lubricating properties!Can damage engine.But it does work. Build a spark tester or buy 1 at auto part store.,"Yes on 2-3 spark plugs, there was no spark. It behaves as if the quick stop is not inserted." +"This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys?","johnnygjr said: + + + + starting fluid is not a good idea guys It has no lubricating properties!Can damage engine.But it does work. Build a spark tester or buy 1 at auto part store. + +Click to expand... + + +I personally wouldn't worry about it if spraying it into the cylinders themselves just to check for spark and if it will fire with some starting fluid introduced. I would not however, spray it into the air intake and keep spraying it after the engine has fired and is running on starting fluid (seen people do that) as it will keep running as long as you keep spraying that fluid into the intake which means no fuel-oil mix being introduced to the cylinder if there is a fuel blockage issue.","johnnygjr said: + + + + starting fluid is not a good idea guys It has no lubricating properties!Can damage engine.But it does work. Build a spark tester or buy 1 at auto part store. + +Click to expand... + + +I personally wouldn't worry about it if spraying it into the cylinders themselves just to check for spark and if it will fire with some starting fluid introduced. I would not however, spray it into the air intake and keep spraying it after the engine has fired and is running on starting fluid (seen people do that) as it will keep running as long as you keep spraying that fluid into the intake which means no fuel-oil mix being introduced to the cylinder if there is a fuel blockage issue.","There are probably some folks that monitor this forum that know more than I do about this, but there are two alternatives. + +Search the internet for marine wiring butt connectors designed for unequal size wires. I have several for connecting 8 - 10 awg to 14-16 awg. I'm fairly sure they are made to handle 6 to 12 or 13 awg. + +If you cannot find those, then use butt connectors for the 6 awg, strip the 13 awg long enough so that you can double it over two or three times to insert snugly into the 6 awg butt connector. + +In either case, solder the connections to the butt connector, then shrink wrap and cover that with liquid electrical tape. + +If you are really good with a soldering gun (which I admittedly am not) you can forget the butt connectors altogether, and solder the two wires together using a stiff piece of single strand copper wire to reinforce the connection - that is, overlay the bare 13 awg multi-strand to the bare 6 awg multi-strand, solder those together, then solder the 12 awg single strand (from a piece of household wiring) to reinforce the connection. Shrink wrap and coat with electrical tape. + +One other thing to do is to cut the wires so that the connections are not right next to each other - that is, the red 6 awg wire is about 2 inches longer than the black one, and the black 13 awg wire is about 2 inches longer than the red one." +"This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys?",Well said deepsea21,Well said deepsea21,You can fit a Mercury 16X11 or 13 aluminum in there with no problem. They have a big blade so check your WOT to be sure you get 6000 rpm. You will need to use their hub kit made for Yamaha applications. +"This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys?","I will also say with regard to pulling, breaking down and fully cleaning the carbs - Every beginning of the season before you start the engine, back out the little brass fuel jets in the carbs and check that their orifices are ABSOLUTELY CLEAN AND CLEAR. Blast carb cleaner through them - Copper wire if needed (learned this the very hard & very expensive way)... A fuel jet can have that orifice clog say just say 25% or 30%. The engine will start and seem to run fine (especially in a multi cylinder engine) but the reality is that cylinder is running 25%-30% lean which means 25% to 30% less fuel/oil mix which means it's not getting the lubrication it needs throughout the RPM range. That = a scored cylinder wall, burned rings or a melted piston head which = expensive reboreing of that cylinder and re-ringing the piston. An engine is good for one costly re-boring and re-ringing. Score a cylinder after that you have a new new anchor for the boat as the engine is toast. All that can be prevented by taking 15 minutes and checking those jets at the beginning of every season and, of course, adding marine fuel stabilizer to your fuel ALL THE TIME... Not just prior to storage!","I will also say with regard to pulling, breaking down and fully cleaning the carbs - Every beginning of the season before you start the engine, back out the little brass fuel jets in the carbs and check that their orifices are ABSOLUTELY CLEAN AND CLEAR. Blast carb cleaner through them - Copper wire if needed (learned this the very hard & very expensive way)... A fuel jet can have that orifice clog say just say 25% or 30%. The engine will start and seem to run fine (especially in a multi cylinder engine) but the reality is that cylinder is running 25%-30% lean which means 25% to 30% less fuel/oil mix which means it's not getting the lubrication it needs throughout the RPM range. That = a scored cylinder wall, burned rings or a melted piston head which = expensive reboreing of that cylinder and re-ringing the piston. An engine is good for one costly re-boring and re-ringing. Score a cylinder after that you have a new new anchor for the boat as the engine is toast. All that can be prevented by taking 15 minutes and checking those jets at the beginning of every season and, of course, adding marine fuel stabilizer to your fuel ALL THE TIME... Not just prior to storage!","You'll have Merc's TB EST ignition system. +I believe that the rotor, which is also the photo-eye wheel, is glued in position. It may require some force. + +Try posting your question in the Mercruiser forum. + +." +"This is a Yamaha motor. Last time the engine ran I was approaching the boat launch and the engine started to die. I could keep it running by choking it. You would think I was running out of fuel or the tank was venting, right? However, this spring she won't fire at all. I thought that maybe the kill switch was bad, but the behavior the last time it ran makes me think that either the ignition module or coils are the problem. I hear this is the best place for advice. What say you guys?","get a spark tester or build one with nails and a piece of wood.You should have a video diy.You said its getting fuel, Are plugs wet with fuel and oil?age of motor?hours on engine,new fuel in tank? I meant You tube might have a video on constructing spark tester.","get a spark tester or build one with nails and a piece of wood.You should have a video diy.You said its getting fuel, Are plugs wet with fuel and oil?age of motor?hours on engine,new fuel in tank? I meant You tube might have a video on constructing spark tester.","Nope,.... No pictures,..... + +Transom wood is replaced from Inside the hull,..... + +You can remove the entire top cap, or cut the aft end of the top cap to gain access, but do Not cut the back of the hull off,....." +"The last time I was out, I suffered a noticeable loss of power and could not get on plane. I checked my fuel filters, cleaned the carbs, changed to spark plugs, but I am still having issues. I found that my top and bottom plugs were getting a spark, but nothing to the middle (and the bottom was weaker). I swapped ignition coils to make sure that wasn't the issue, so that can be crossed off the list. At this point, I am thinking it is the CDI Powerpack or the pulse. How would I determine which is causing the issue? Are there other potential culprits I could be overlooking? + + Thanks for your time and advice!","Send an email with your issues to simyamaha... There used to be guy there who posted on this forum quite a bit and could diagnose about everything. Think his name may have been ""Chris"". He's the one who led me to that damn VST filter in my F115 Yammy after I had checked everything I could... Of course, there's no mention of that stupid filter in the owner's manual!","Send an email with your issues to simyamaha... There used to be guy there who posted on this forum quite a bit and could diagnose about everything. Think his name may have been ""Chris"". He's the one who led me to that damn VST filter in my F115 Yammy after I had checked everything I could... Of course, there's no mention of that stupid filter in the owner's manual!","Lloyd Tucker said: + + + + There a black wire on the rectifier that’s is getting hot and if I unhook it my fuse will blow. +the black wire runs from rectifier to ground. +is my rectifier bad? +is my black wire bad? + +Click to expand... + + +I unhooked my control box and my trim motor to see if they where the one with short but still blowing fuses. Everything I’m down to is this black wire on rectifier block. I wish I could find a wiring schematic for this boat" +"My 1995 90 hp yahmaha will idle up to 1000rpm ,after that primer bulb goes soft ,seems to starve for fuel +New bulb ,105 compression on all cylinders ,new fuel pump,",You said when the bulb goes soft. meaning that there is no fuel in the bulb. Work your way back . Just might have a restriction somewhere. Some Boat fuel tanks have a check valve coming out of the tank. Why ?. I would check there clean it or just remove it. Good luck.,You said when the bulb goes soft. meaning that there is no fuel in the bulb. Work your way back . Just might have a restriction somewhere. Some Boat fuel tanks have a check valve coming out of the tank. Why ?. I would check there clean it or just remove it. Good luck.,"Well, what happened ??" +"My 1995 90 hp yahmaha will idle up to 1000rpm ,after that primer bulb goes soft ,seems to starve for fuel +New bulb ,105 compression on all cylinders ,new fuel pump,","Some stupid manufacturers also place a tiny fuel filter on the end of the fuel pick-up line that sits in the borrom of the fuel tank... A filter no one ever thinks could be there and is 100% NOT NECESSARY as there is usually an in-line fuel/water separating filter and, if not, certainly a fuel filter under the engine cowling. If you find a filter on the end of that fuel pick-up line, pull it out or cut it off as it is only prone to cause problems. Had a friend chase a power-robbing ghost for months that mysteriously came and went after a period of running until someone told him about the possibility of a filter being in the bottom of the fuel tank attached to the fuel pick-up line. I say chasing a ghost because as he'd go on a long run, that little crap filter would be sucking and sucking fuel and getting more and more clogged with debris until it clogged up.... He'd throttle back, come to a stop, shut down, restart, and it would be fine until it happened again... Every time he did that the suction woudl stop, the fuel would slosh around in the tank, all that debris would fall off and it would run fine.... until it happened again, and again, and again. Restriction from a filter at that point would cause your bulb to go limp. + + +And of course as flabob1 said... check that your fuel vent if it's a protable fuel tank is open. Years ago I was running engine died, couldn't figure it out, got towed in, and then looked at that tank and realized I hadn't opened that vent valve. I opened it and could hear the immediate woosh of air being sucked into the tank that had gone under a vacume as the fuel pump sucked all the fuel out it could and created a vacume in the tank as there no air able could enter to replace the fuel. Like trying to suck on a straw with your finger stuck on the other end. Just another novice on the water I was back then.","Some stupid manufacturers also place a tiny fuel filter on the end of the fuel pick-up line that sits in the borrom of the fuel tank... A filter no one ever thinks could be there and is 100% NOT NECESSARY as there is usually an in-line fuel/water separating filter and, if not, certainly a fuel filter under the engine cowling. If you find a filter on the end of that fuel pick-up line, pull it out or cut it off as it is only prone to cause problems. Had a friend chase a power-robbing ghost for months that mysteriously came and went after a period of running until someone told him about the possibility of a filter being in the bottom of the fuel tank attached to the fuel pick-up line. I say chasing a ghost because as he'd go on a long run, that little crap filter would be sucking and sucking fuel and getting more and more clogged with debris until it clogged up.... He'd throttle back, come to a stop, shut down, restart, and it would be fine until it happened again... Every time he did that the suction woudl stop, the fuel would slosh around in the tank, all that debris would fall off and it would run fine.... until it happened again, and again, and again. Restriction from a filter at that point would cause your bulb to go limp. + + +And of course as flabob1 said... check that your fuel vent if it's a protable fuel tank is open. Years ago I was running engine died, couldn't figure it out, got towed in, and then looked at that tank and realized I hadn't opened that vent valve. I opened it and could hear the immediate woosh of air being sucked into the tank that had gone under a vacume as the fuel pump sucked all the fuel out it could and created a vacume in the tank as there no air able could enter to replace the fuel. Like trying to suck on a straw with your finger stuck on the other end. Just another novice on the water I was back then.","Well, what happened ??" +"Looking at one as a kicker motor for my 16' runabout. +Any issues I should be aware of ? + +Thanks",If it says YAMAHA on the cowling its a good engine. Yamaha produces the best outboards in the world in my opinion. I may have my complaints here and there about Yamaha engineering but without a doubt they run and run and run so long as you maintain them. Look at any military or coast guard boat and even commercial crabbers/fishermen... what are they running? Almost always Yamaha.,If it says YAMAHA on the cowling its a good engine. Yamaha produces the best outboards in the world in my opinion. I may have my complaints here and there about Yamaha engineering but without a doubt they run and run and run so long as you maintain them. Look at any military or coast guard boat and even commercial crabbers/fishermen... what are they running? Almost always Yamaha.,"you need to find the diameter of the '5 lug bolt circle'...if its 4 1/2"", there are options available...use your favorite search engine and you will find what you are looking for....beware: the prices for trailer tires are significant nowadays... + +I'd be inclined to go with the 'newer' stuff as I haven't seen one of the wheels you described in decades... + +I'd also consider new bearings and grease seals - they are relatively cheap compared to new wheels and will go a long way towards mitigating issues with an older trailer (assuming the frame is still solid)..." +"Looking at one as a kicker motor for my 16' runabout. +Any issues I should be aware of ? + +Thanks",Thanks !,Thanks !,Remove gearcase and recheck shift linkage by hand. +"Looking at one as a kicker motor for my 16' runabout. +Any issues I should be aware of ? + +Thanks","Do remember one thing with a kicker motor... Lots of people hook them up as an emergency ""get home"" motor. They fire them up once and run it a bit and then they forget about it. Then, when they really need it they try to start it and fuel from 3 years ago that has been sitting in the engine and fuel line to it has gummed up, screwed everything up, and they are left on the on water with 2 dead engines. Every time you go out in the boat, be sure to lower the kicker and run it for a few minutes to keep the fuel flowing to it just as fresh and the fuel flowing to your main engine. The longer an engine sits without being run, the greater the probability it won't start when you need it.","Do remember one thing with a kicker motor... Lots of people hook them up as an emergency ""get home"" motor. They fire them up once and run it a bit and then they forget about it. Then, when they really need it they try to start it and fuel from 3 years ago that has been sitting in the engine and fuel line to it has gummed up, screwed everything up, and they are left on the on water with 2 dead engines. Every time you go out in the boat, be sure to lower the kicker and run it for a few minutes to keep the fuel flowing to it just as fresh and the fuel flowing to your main engine. The longer an engine sits without being run, the greater the probability it won't start when you need it.",What difference is there between a 74 and 76 Merc 7.5 ??----Post some details. +"Looking at one as a kicker motor for my 16' runabout. +Any issues I should be aware of ? + +Thanks",Good point deepsea21 lots of good information there Dark star have compression checked if used cant tell by looking at a picture,Good point deepsea21 lots of good information there Dark star have compression checked if used cant tell by looking at a picture,"Thats a tricky motor. The serial number shows the year but it's not really important. You need the number to order parts. I believe these are called a 40E. Im with raceone, the carbs usually can be repaired. One thing to keep in mind, the motor while built by and with Yamaha parts is a Mariner engine. Be sure to search Mariner parts or you will spin your wheels. +Start here: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/40c-twin-carb +Good luck!" +25 hp 2 stroke Yamaha 2006 model. 2 cylinder 2 carbs. Top cylinder no combustion. Motor idles and runs at low speed but over half throttle it falls to its knees. Running and pulled top spark plug wire and no difference in running. Reinstall top wire an pull bottom spark plug wire and engine dies. Pulled both new plugs and top plug still looks new. Bottom has been firing an looks used. Pulled top plug and it is firing. Pulled air fuel mix plate on top carb and cleaned carb thoroughly as possible without removing. I was able to spray cleaner threw all areas and fill bowl. Put it back together an same problem. Any help would be great. I have done compression check an both cylinders are within 10 lbs.,"sounds like upper cylinder is not getting fuel.pull fuel line on upper carb squeeze bulb look for fuel.if fuel pull carb and clean all passages throughly,bowl ,needles,set float etc.","sounds like upper cylinder is not getting fuel.pull fuel line on upper carb squeeze bulb look for fuel.if fuel pull carb and clean all passages throughly,bowl ,needles,set float etc.",All it was was not enough oil in the oil tank as I did not want it spilling out again and though there was enough in there for now as I tested out the outboard. This Yamaha goes into a limp mode type warning and that is what was happening as when I put in more oil it ran right. I thought a buzzer of something went off when oil was low. +25 hp 2 stroke Yamaha 2006 model. 2 cylinder 2 carbs. Top cylinder no combustion. Motor idles and runs at low speed but over half throttle it falls to its knees. Running and pulled top spark plug wire and no difference in running. Reinstall top wire an pull bottom spark plug wire and engine dies. Pulled both new plugs and top plug still looks new. Bottom has been firing an looks used. Pulled top plug and it is firing. Pulled air fuel mix plate on top carb and cleaned carb thoroughly as possible without removing. I was able to spray cleaner threw all areas and fill bowl. Put it back together an same problem. Any help would be great. I have done compression check an both cylinders are within 10 lbs.,Bowl is filling up but not going threw jet. Remove and cleaning thoroughly coming up. Thanks for ur help,Bowl is filling up but not going threw jet. Remove and cleaning thoroughly coming up. Thanks for ur help,Here's a pic of the broken wire on the stator +25 hp 2 stroke Yamaha 2006 model. 2 cylinder 2 carbs. Top cylinder no combustion. Motor idles and runs at low speed but over half throttle it falls to its knees. Running and pulled top spark plug wire and no difference in running. Reinstall top wire an pull bottom spark plug wire and engine dies. Pulled both new plugs and top plug still looks new. Bottom has been firing an looks used. Pulled top plug and it is firing. Pulled air fuel mix plate on top carb and cleaned carb thoroughly as possible without removing. I was able to spray cleaner threw all areas and fill bowl. Put it back together an same problem. Any help would be great. I have done compression check an both cylinders are within 10 lbs.,"Pull the top carb and break it all down. Don't be afraid to pull it and don't worry about replacing gaskets and such after pulling it as some may say. I've pulled 2 stroke carbs over and over and always put them back with the same gaskets used again with no issues. When you pull that little brass fuel jet blast carb cleaner through the jet and if you see any residue inside that little hole, run a piece of COPPER wire through it to clean it out. Don't use needles or pins or somehting else as you can leave a scratch in the brass that will attract more gumming. Copper is softer than brass so it will not scratch the inside of that orifice.","Pull the top carb and break it all down. Don't be afraid to pull it and don't worry about replacing gaskets and such after pulling it as some may say. I've pulled 2 stroke carbs over and over and always put them back with the same gaskets used again with no issues. When you pull that little brass fuel jet blast carb cleaner through the jet and if you see any residue inside that little hole, run a piece of COPPER wire through it to clean it out. Don't use needles or pins or somehting else as you can leave a scratch in the brass that will attract more gumming. Copper is softer than brass so it will not scratch the inside of that orifice.","tileslayer said: + + + + Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle + +Click to expand... + + +Your words above in bold are a good indication of where the most likely problem is located...the fuel pump. Depending on how you store your outboard, the only time when priming the engine is needed is during a cold start (1st start of the day). With a healthy fuel pump, no matter how many times you start and cut engine you should not need to re-prime engine after initial cold start. + +See schematic below of your fuel pump, located center right in picture. Dismount the pump and check for leaks. If you've got a friend nearby, have them squeeze primer bulb as you look at fuel pump for leaks. If it leaks, replace it with a new fuel pump. + +If no visible leak is seen, re-mount fuel pump. Take the boat back out on the water and run it. When it starts running rough, feel the primer bulb with your hand. You should feel flow running through the bulb as the engine is running. If the bulb is collapsing, that's indication #1 of a bad fuel pump. + +If the bulb did collapse, now you'll get the engine started and run it again. But this time keep your hand on the primer bulb and don't let it collapse. As the engine continues to run, you prime the bulb keeping it tight (don't over prime, just till bulb is tight). Keep repeating this for a few minutes as the engine runs in the mid rpms. If the engine continues to run, that's indication #2 of a bad fuel pump. And you don't need a #3 to complete this troubleshooting. It's a bad fuel pump. Replace. Luckily they're not expensive." +"Hi, + +I have some issues with the powertrim on my 10 yr old 100 hp Yamaha outboard engine. + +The power tilt is lowering the engine into the water at normal speed, however it is very slow rising the motor up from the water. The sound is normal both up and down, it is only very slow when rising the motor. + +The battery is well charged and the boat motor itself runs smoothly + + +Any advice? Have seen others comment fluid/oil level, battery connection and power tilt motor ""clean up"" + +Thanks!","I would say you could check the amps on the motor when raising, but, idk where you would find the tt motor specs. +Ifall the other items are in good, battery, fluid etc., I would say the motor is just wearing out.","I would say you could check the amps on the motor when raising, but, idk where you would find the tt motor specs. +Ifall the other items are in good, battery, fluid etc., I would say the motor is just wearing out.","But.... my neighbor does not think he can take back the 24 v batteries and is wondering if we can install a 12 v transformer 30a we have seen some on e-bay for like less than $30 to power everything off the 24 v batteries although I don't think 30a is enough to feed the 35 force outboard starter motor and that a transformer might drain the batteries all the time and is getting into unwanted complicatedness.... + + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... it sounds like ""unwanted complicatedness"", to me...." +"Hi, + +I have some issues with the powertrim on my 10 yr old 100 hp Yamaha outboard engine. + +The power tilt is lowering the engine into the water at normal speed, however it is very slow rising the motor up from the water. The sound is normal both up and down, it is only very slow when rising the motor. + +The battery is well charged and the boat motor itself runs smoothly + + +Any advice? Have seen others comment fluid/oil level, battery connection and power tilt motor ""clean up"" + +Thanks!",hola tenes que sacarle el aire al trimado para descartar primero,hola tenes que sacarle el aire al trimado para descartar primero,I tried to research the pro mariner 2-70-3 and the only specs they give is number of alternators and total output you should probably get a 2-120-3 isolator just to be safe and also use the proper wire size #2g to be safe. +"Hi, + +I have some issues with the powertrim on my 10 yr old 100 hp Yamaha outboard engine. + +The power tilt is lowering the engine into the water at normal speed, however it is very slow rising the motor up from the water. The sound is normal both up and down, it is only very slow when rising the motor. + +The battery is well charged and the boat motor itself runs smoothly + + +Any advice? Have seen others comment fluid/oil level, battery connection and power tilt motor ""clean up"" + +Thanks!","magbaat said: + + + + Hi, + +I have some issues with the powertrim on my 10 yr old 100 hp Yamaha outboard engine. + +The power tilt is lowering the engine into the water at normal speed, however it is very slow rising the motor up from the water. The sound is normal both up and down, it is only very slow when rising the motor. + +The battery is well charged and the boat motor itself runs smoothly + + +Any advice? Have seen others comment fluid/oil level, battery connection and power tilt motor ""clean up"" + +Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +There is a ground wire for your trim motor. Usually brown and not secured to anything in particular. I had the same problem with my Mercury and after replacing the wire it lifted at normal speeds. Before you replace it check to see if the wire can be spliced and cleaned or see if it is kinked in any spots. Hope this helps.","magbaat said: + + + + Hi, + +I have some issues with the powertrim on my 10 yr old 100 hp Yamaha outboard engine. + +The power tilt is lowering the engine into the water at normal speed, however it is very slow rising the motor up from the water. The sound is normal both up and down, it is only very slow when rising the motor. + +The battery is well charged and the boat motor itself runs smoothly + + +Any advice? Have seen others comment fluid/oil level, battery connection and power tilt motor ""clean up"" + +Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +There is a ground wire for your trim motor. Usually brown and not secured to anything in particular. I had the same problem with my Mercury and after replacing the wire it lifted at normal speeds. Before you replace it check to see if the wire can be spliced and cleaned or see if it is kinked in any spots. Hope this helps.","You know that never occurred to me, but if you're right that would be a super easy fix. Thanks!" +"Hi, + +I have some issues with the powertrim on my 10 yr old 100 hp Yamaha outboard engine. + +The power tilt is lowering the engine into the water at normal speed, however it is very slow rising the motor up from the water. The sound is normal both up and down, it is only very slow when rising the motor. + +The battery is well charged and the boat motor itself runs smoothly + + +Any advice? Have seen others comment fluid/oil level, battery connection and power tilt motor ""clean up"" + +Thanks!","Aaron Condon said: + + + + There is a ground wire for your trim motor. Usually brown and not secured to anything in particular. I had the same problem with my Mercury and after replacing the wire it lifted at normal speeds. Before you replace it check to see if the wire can be spliced and cleaned or see if it is kinked in any spots. Hope this helps. + +Click to expand... + + +My bet is it's low on hydraulic fluid/oil. The sound is normal up and down which indicates it is not a power issue. The pump is running just the same and a tthe same speed on both the up and down travel... When you trim down, all the pump is doing is releasing pressure. When you trim up, all the the pump is trying to do is build pressure with the fluid it has on hand. Low fluid = low pressure. Check the fluid level is full with the engine trimmed all the way down.","Aaron Condon said: + + + + There is a ground wire for your trim motor. Usually brown and not secured to anything in particular. I had the same problem with my Mercury and after replacing the wire it lifted at normal speeds. Before you replace it check to see if the wire can be spliced and cleaned or see if it is kinked in any spots. Hope this helps. + +Click to expand... + + +My bet is it's low on hydraulic fluid/oil. The sound is normal up and down which indicates it is not a power issue. The pump is running just the same and a tthe same speed on both the up and down travel... When you trim down, all the pump is doing is releasing pressure. When you trim up, all the the pump is trying to do is build pressure with the fluid it has on hand. Low fluid = low pressure. Check the fluid level is full with the engine trimmed all the way down.","hi, my suggestion is inspect oil viscosity, because engine oil and gear oil has different viscosity, if the leaked oil less thicker then gear oil then it should be +engine oil, if not then you must do pressure test and open gear box to inspect seals." +"Hi, + +I have some issues with the powertrim on my 10 yr old 100 hp Yamaha outboard engine. + +The power tilt is lowering the engine into the water at normal speed, however it is very slow rising the motor up from the water. The sound is normal both up and down, it is only very slow when rising the motor. + +The battery is well charged and the boat motor itself runs smoothly + + +Any advice? Have seen others comment fluid/oil level, battery connection and power tilt motor ""clean up"" + +Thanks!",low on fluid causes air bubbles in system thus reducing hydralulic pressure.,low on fluid causes air bubbles in system thus reducing hydralulic pressure.,"Loehning said: + + + + Yes I had no power from the helm or the side of engine and then in morning went to try it and motor went up and down perfectly from helm and from engine.. + +Click to expand... + + +Sounds like you've got a wire going bad. Since the engines switch didn't work you can skip meter testing from control to ignition. Volt drop test from from ignition to engine switch. Most likely a bad ground." +"I need some help. Me and a buddy of mine have been trying to get my water pump to pump water through the motor. Here is the issue. The motor was pumping water, but I ran it without water, it got too hot, melted the water pump impeller in the foot and shot the remnants through the motor, and now it won't pee. We have taken the motor apart as far as we can without taking the entire head of the motor off, blown air all through it and it still wont pee. Any and all help is appreciated",When we took it apart there were pieces of the impeller all throughout the head of the engine,When we took it apart there were pieces of the impeller all throughout the head of the engine,"Ok, switchbox problem. Now I'm wondering about the engine. Model is J110TLAEM and # is R08182597." +"I need some help. Me and a buddy of mine have been trying to get my water pump to pump water through the motor. Here is the issue. The motor was pumping water, but I ran it without water, it got too hot, melted the water pump impeller in the foot and shot the remnants through the motor, and now it won't pee. We have taken the motor apart as far as we can without taking the entire head of the motor off, blown air all through it and it still wont pee. Any and all help is appreciated",pressurized water through head and block with stats removed? maybe pressure washer??chemical solution that eats rubber??not sure what proper procedure is!experts chime in please.,pressurized water through head and block with stats removed? maybe pressure washer??chemical solution that eats rubber??not sure what proper procedure is!experts chime in please.,I have not had a chance to check the tell tail yet. Will do in the a.m. Is it normal for the stream to be somewhat slow at idle? I have noticed that it does not come out strong until the rpm's come up. Keep in mind that the impeller is new. +"I need some help. Me and a buddy of mine have been trying to get my water pump to pump water through the motor. Here is the issue. The motor was pumping water, but I ran it without water, it got too hot, melted the water pump impeller in the foot and shot the remnants through the motor, and now it won't pee. We have taken the motor apart as far as we can without taking the entire head of the motor off, blown air all through it and it still wont pee. Any and all help is appreciated",You might be in luck. I just found out something that I never new. I had a Rectifier/regular go bad. Did you know they were water cooled. How ? Well the water that pees out the engine goes to the base of the regular before it spills overboard. It' s a in/out thing. The chamber where the water goes is just about 3/8 thick by 2x3 in. I bet it's clogged up . You could also back flush blowing water into the pee hole but with all the stuff you got to might want to remove the regular. good luck,You might be in luck. I just found out something that I never new. I had a Rectifier/regular go bad. Did you know they were water cooled. How ? Well the water that pees out the engine goes to the base of the regular before it spills overboard. It' s a in/out thing. The chamber where the water goes is just about 3/8 thick by 2x3 in. I bet it's clogged up . You could also back flush blowing water into the pee hole but with all the stuff you got to might want to remove the regular. good luck,"OK i know this thread is old but for what its worth here is my personal experience. I have tried most setups. + +Electric brakes work by a ""floating"" magnet being energized and grabbing onto the face of the brake drum. This magnet is attached to a lever that moves the shoes. Pretty simple and very effective + +BUT put them in water and a couple of things happen: + + The brake drum itself & the face of the magnet both rust and the magnet has to wear this rust away before it can work properly. This may take a few miles of travel but its not such a big deal. +The big problem is there is always a fair amount of dust in the brake drum from wear from the brake pads and from the face of the drum where the magnet rubs. This dust turns to sludge when you add water and acts like a grinding paste and the magnet and brake drum face just grinds itself to death. It may only take a hundred miles or so + +Even if it does not grind the magnet disc badly, the sludge can dry out and set solid and may prevent movement of the magnet or the lever or the shoes. + +Best set up for boats is mechanical over run (depends where you live whether these are legal along with the weight of the boat) then Hydraulic either electric air/ hydraulic (Sensa Brake) electric hydraulic, air hydraulic (like trucks), vacuum hydraulic (uses the cars vacuum to operate hydraulic, much less common these days). + +Whatever you use you can get galvanized parts, bronze & stainless parts ( including the discs) or just use standard parts and replace them every couple of years. It is only a matter of justifying how much you wish to spend. Water heat & cast iron (drums & disks) will nearly always rust whether its salt water or fresh/brackish water + +My current setup is a Sensa brake with galvanized calipers & discs. +Where I live, over run brakes have a cut off of 2000kg so I cant use them. Also its law here that the brakes must come on automatically if the boat/trailer disconnects from the car while traveling, and you must be able to have control of the trailer brakes manually (as well as automatically ) from the towing vehicles brakes. (so you can put the trailer brakes on without the tow vehicle brake)" +"I need some help. Me and a buddy of mine have been trying to get my water pump to pump water through the motor. Here is the issue. The motor was pumping water, but I ran it without water, it got too hot, melted the water pump impeller in the foot and shot the remnants through the motor, and now it won't pee. We have taken the motor apart as far as we can without taking the entire head of the motor off, blown air all through it and it still wont pee. Any and all help is appreciated","Well, you've learned to never run an engine without the impeller submerged in water or the engine hooked up to a set of earmuffs and a hose. When it comes to ""pee-hole"" issues.. Nothing beats running the engine with a set of muffs on it or sunk in a trash can and then feeding some common ""weed-wacker"" nylon trimming line up through that pee-hole to clear clogs. Works far better and goes much further than wire, pins, paperclips, and whatever else people think about shoving up that little pee-hole.","Well, you've learned to never run an engine without the impeller submerged in water or the engine hooked up to a set of earmuffs and a hose. When it comes to ""pee-hole"" issues.. Nothing beats running the engine with a set of muffs on it or sunk in a trash can and then feeding some common ""weed-wacker"" nylon trimming line up through that pee-hole to clear clogs. Works far better and goes much further than wire, pins, paperclips, and whatever else people think about shoving up that little pee-hole.","Hey, PAL, + +Thought I would add a little chart showing battery charge state. + + + + + + + +As you can see, 12 VDC output of a ""fully charged battery"" is low, actually less than 50% charged......." +"I need some help. Me and a buddy of mine have been trying to get my water pump to pump water through the motor. Here is the issue. The motor was pumping water, but I ran it without water, it got too hot, melted the water pump impeller in the foot and shot the remnants through the motor, and now it won't pee. We have taken the motor apart as far as we can without taking the entire head of the motor off, blown air all through it and it still wont pee. Any and all help is appreciated",I use weed wacker also cant beat it.johnnyG. String,I use weed wacker also cant beat it.johnnyG. String,"I just realized on this engine, there are two of those switches. Pretty much co located. The bottom one that was a little hidden seems like its a switch for N and R. I tested it, all 00.0 ohms in the closed or depressed position. Then 4.65 in the open or non depressed position. + +Did I find the issue? + +Thanks." +"I have a 1990 yamaha 25hp 2 stroke, New Plugs Newly rebuilt Carbs and new fuel pump diaphragm, New fuel filter, new primer bulb and lines + Starts right up on first pull runs smooth. Motor will run all day at 1/4 throttle with no problems. I can run smooth at 1/2 or full throttle smooth just about enough time to plane for a minute or two then will choke down to an idle speed like its starving for fuel or running on a single cylinder for about a minute before throttle comes back. At that point I can immediately throttle up again to a plane before it happens again. Happens every time the same way. Primer bulb stays nice and stiff the hole time, ive tried venting fuel tank with no change. Any input would be greatly appreciated.","Check your fuel tank and see if there is a fuel filter stuck on the end of the fuel pick-up line that sits down in the bottom of the tank. That is known as the ""ghost filter"" that no one ever thinks or even knows about. You have a fuel flow issue that develops when the engine is really trying to suck the fuel. Assuming your engine has a fuel filter under the cowling, if there's a little filter on the end of that fuel pick-up line pull it off or cut it off as it is not needed. Your primer bulb will still feel full when squeezed because it's not a leak in the system anywhere from the bulb to the carbs, it's a flow issue.","Check your fuel tank and see if there is a fuel filter stuck on the end of the fuel pick-up line that sits down in the bottom of the tank. That is known as the ""ghost filter"" that no one ever thinks or even knows about. You have a fuel flow issue that develops when the engine is really trying to suck the fuel. Assuming your engine has a fuel filter under the cowling, if there's a little filter on the end of that fuel pick-up line pull it off or cut it off as it is not needed. Your primer bulb will still feel full when squeezed because it's not a leak in the system anywhere from the bulb to the carbs, it's a flow issue.",Remove the carb and check it carefully for loose fuel line connections- the needle valve also might not be seating properly and is causing flooding. +"Hello. + +I have a Yamaha 40 hp which I have problems with the idling. When I start it (usually most when it's cold), it idles pretty rough and at low speed I feel it's not quite right. It coughs a lot. + +When it gets up to speed. 8-22 knots it almost never misfire. It's very rare I have problems with it then. It also starts up pretty easily. Sometimes he's a bit greedy with the choke. But I've heard it's normal for the Yamaha engines that they need a bit of choke at cold start. + +I've changed the spark plugs. +I've taken out the carburetors and cleaned them and adjusted the float bowl. + +Is it maybe a carburetor adjustment problem here? I don't feel it's ignition related as it runs decent in high rpm. + + +It's also a very old engine. It has run for god knows how many hours. So could this maybe be mechanical? Since it works better when getting up to operating temp? + +Thanks for every help I can get. + +Best Regards +Benjamin",When you pulled the carbs did you break them all the way down and especially back out the brass fuel jets and make sure they were perfectly clear and clean? Often you can back out those brass fuel jets without even pulling the carbs depending on the engine. Even a little gumming in those jets can cause problems and blasting carb cleaner through them in place won't always get rid of that gum. I used to pull my old 2 stroke jet orifices and run a COPPER wire through them back and forth as copper is softer than brass and won't leave scrapes inside the jet that a harder wire could that can lead to more gumming up.,When you pulled the carbs did you break them all the way down and especially back out the brass fuel jets and make sure they were perfectly clear and clean? Often you can back out those brass fuel jets without even pulling the carbs depending on the engine. Even a little gumming in those jets can cause problems and blasting carb cleaner through them in place won't always get rid of that gum. I used to pull my old 2 stroke jet orifices and run a COPPER wire through them back and forth as copper is softer than brass and won't leave scrapes inside the jet that a harder wire could that can lead to more gumming up., +"My outboard is producing oil after a few trips, but no sign of any water. I have been changing oil every few trips however I'm sure something is going on and I need advise. Also, the motor is a lot louder as if it has a bad muffler. Strangely, the motor runs good and hard.","Sounds like your engine is running cold. Check the t-stat and make sure it is not stuck open. + + +Cold engine puts gas in the crank case and will make oil.","Sounds like your engine is running cold. Check the t-stat and make sure it is not stuck open. + + +Cold engine puts gas in the crank case and will make oil.",Something is wrong !---Should not need an 11 pitch on a 16' boat.----See a dealer and have some tests done. +"My outboard is producing oil after a few trips, but no sign of any water. I have been changing oil every few trips however I'm sure something is going on and I need advise. Also, the motor is a lot louder as if it has a bad muffler. Strangely, the motor runs good and hard.",I think problem could also be caused by a failing diaphram in the mechanical fuel pump(s) driven by the overhead cam. If a diaphram starts to fail on one of those pumps you can get fuel leaking into the OH cam = making oil as fuel is being added to the oil. The mechanical fuel pump(s) should be on the rear of the engine in plain view with the fuel lines entering and exiting.,I think problem could also be caused by a failing diaphram in the mechanical fuel pump(s) driven by the overhead cam. If a diaphram starts to fail on one of those pumps you can get fuel leaking into the OH cam = making oil as fuel is being added to the oil. The mechanical fuel pump(s) should be on the rear of the engine in plain view with the fuel lines entering and exiting.,"Ayuh,.... The motor bed has to be firmly secured to the hull, to firmly support the motor,...." +"Can anyone tell me what is the compression supposed to be on a 1996 30deo 6j8 outboard? +I did a test and the 3 cylinders all come out to 90 pound or within a pound of that, +To me it seams low but to have the 3 so close on poundage i'm not sure",There are many different gauges and techniques.----The fact that all cylinders read the same is a good sign.------What is the motor doing / not doing ?,There are many different gauges and techniques.----The fact that all cylinders read the same is a good sign.------What is the motor doing / not doing ?,Running good again. After soaking the carbs and adjusting enrichment screws it’s running good again +"Can anyone tell me what is the compression supposed to be on a 1996 30deo 6j8 outboard? +I did a test and the 3 cylinders all come out to 90 pound or within a pound of that, +To me it seams low but to have the 3 so close on poundage i'm not sure","Here is the problem, +its a 1996 yamaha 30deo hp 3 cylinder outboard engine, +When running down the river sounds like its missing and then it got that bad it was at full throttle and it couldn't get up on a plane, +I checked the spark and seems to be ok and when the engine was running i pulled off the top spark plug and it died and then tried the same thing with the second cylinder and it done nothing at all kept running like it was, +So i cleaned out the carbys and changed fuel hose and got new fuel and put in new spark plugs and still has the same problem, +I think it might be the reeds?","Here is the problem, +its a 1996 yamaha 30deo hp 3 cylinder outboard engine, +When running down the river sounds like its missing and then it got that bad it was at full throttle and it couldn't get up on a plane, +I checked the spark and seems to be ok and when the engine was running i pulled off the top spark plug and it died and then tried the same thing with the second cylinder and it done nothing at all kept running like it was, +So i cleaned out the carbys and changed fuel hose and got new fuel and put in new spark plugs and still has the same problem, +I think it might be the reeds?","First thing to do is check your battery and cables. Cables may show continuity, but not be able to carry the needed amperage. Use a pair of jumper cables to make a direct connection between a fully charged battery and the main starter positive lug. Then connect battery negative to engine ground. Also, make sure the starter housing is grounded well to the engine block." +"Can anyone tell me what is the compression supposed to be on a 1996 30deo 6j8 outboard? +I did a test and the 3 cylinders all come out to 90 pound or within a pound of that, +To me it seams low but to have the 3 so close on poundage i'm not sure","Maximus said: + + + + Here is the problem, +its a 1996 yamaha 30deo hp 3 cylinder outboard engine, +When running down the river sounds like its missing and then it got that bad it was at full throttle and it couldn't get up on a plane, +I checked the spark and seems to be ok and when the engine was running i pulled off the top spark plug and it died and then tried the same thing with the second cylinder and it done nothing at all kept running like it was, +So i cleaned out the carbys and changed fuel hose and got new fuel and put in new spark plugs and still has the same problem, +I think it might be the reeds? + +Click to expand... + + + +hi + +i have the same problem. +can you help me ?","Maximus said: + + + + Here is the problem, +its a 1996 yamaha 30deo hp 3 cylinder outboard engine, +When running down the river sounds like its missing and then it got that bad it was at full throttle and it couldn't get up on a plane, +I checked the spark and seems to be ok and when the engine was running i pulled off the top spark plug and it died and then tried the same thing with the second cylinder and it done nothing at all kept running like it was, +So i cleaned out the carbys and changed fuel hose and got new fuel and put in new spark plugs and still has the same problem, +I think it might be the reeds? + +Click to expand... + + + +hi + +i have the same problem. +can you help me ?","rjw4259 said: + + + + Guys, I have that problem on my 1999 2-stroke 150, the gauge just went gaga when raising or lowering the Engine because the little plastic tab that operates the sender was broken and slipping. I ordered the sending unit they sent me the little spring loaded sender and a thing similar to a C clamp with a metal tab on it that I assume operates sender unit shaft. The C clamp device I guess replaces the plastic piece that was broken and slipping on the tilt shaft. Are there any good write ups or you tube procedures for adjusting that thing? I got it kind of close but according to the gauge it is still not displaying the right position of the engine. Is there a procedure in the Yamaha Outboard repair manual to help me? Any help greatly appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi, +As I remember I just installed the sending unit but did not tighten-then lowered the motor and moved the 'tab' up about 0.005 off of its finger and tighten the unit. You might need to make a little adjustments to get the gauge to show what you want. +Hope this helps." +"Can anyone tell me what is the compression supposed to be on a 1996 30deo 6j8 outboard? +I did a test and the 3 cylinders all come out to 90 pound or within a pound of that, +To me it seams low but to have the 3 so close on poundage i'm not sure",Post the results of your compression test.-----Then test for spark on each lead.,Post the results of your compression test.-----Then test for spark on each lead.,http://www.agrisupply.com/equipment-supplies/buddy-bearings-c-5000004.php...these people sell buddy bearings with relief holes...mine came with the trailer in 1993 so i got no idea where they came from...i see on the web some people dont like the grease that gets on their hubs etc though...actually it gets all over the rim... +"Can anyone tell me what is the compression supposed to be on a 1996 30deo 6j8 outboard? +I did a test and the 3 cylinders all come out to 90 pound or within a pound of that, +To me it seams low but to have the 3 so close on poundage i'm not sure","saco said: + + + + hi + +i have the same problem. +can you help me ? + +Click to expand... + +It ended up being 2 out of the 3 coils were bad and it was running on 1 pot most of the time, +They would all show spark but they were not firing properly, +So check them all first before anything else +Very easy to check, here is a quick guide, +https://youtu.be/_kf1wfX5XAM","saco said: + + + + hi + +i have the same problem. +can you help me ? + +Click to expand... + +It ended up being 2 out of the 3 coils were bad and it was running on 1 pot most of the time, +They would all show spark but they were not firing properly, +So check them all first before anything else +Very easy to check, here is a quick guide, +https://youtu.be/_kf1wfX5XAM","I guess another way to ask is ,can the water separator unit itself go bad? Maybe the gasket or some other spot letting air into unit" +"Can anyone tell me what is the compression supposed to be on a 1996 30deo 6j8 outboard? +I did a test and the 3 cylinders all come out to 90 pound or within a pound of that, +To me it seams low but to have the 3 so close on poundage i'm not sure","Maximus said: + + + + It ended up being 2 out of the 3 coils were bad and it was running on 1 pot most of the time, +They would all show spark but they were not firing properly, +So check them all first before anything else +Very easy to check, here is a quick guide, +https://youtu.be/_kf1wfX5XAM + +Click to expand... + + + +thanks + +I have let the moter run for an hour, and switched between forward and backward. +After that the moter stopt , i measured the way you told me , and 2 coils are dead. + +now i have to find out if i can replace them for rec697-85570-10 coils +Do you if this is posible?","Maximus said: + + + + It ended up being 2 out of the 3 coils were bad and it was running on 1 pot most of the time, +They would all show spark but they were not firing properly, +So check them all first before anything else +Very easy to check, here is a quick guide, +https://youtu.be/_kf1wfX5XAM + +Click to expand... + + + +thanks + +I have let the moter run for an hour, and switched between forward and backward. +After that the moter stopt , i measured the way you told me , and 2 coils are dead. + +now i have to find out if i can replace them for rec697-85570-10 coils +Do you if this is posible?",Was there a question in that post? +Yamaha f115 randomly dies when above idle.It doesn't do it when rectifier is unplugged. replaced rectifier and stator. cleaned connections and new batt cables. engine is charging when rectifier is plugged up. The rec also gets pretty hot. also when it dies or sometimes surges the tach go completely off like no power. thanks in advance if i think of any other stuff its doing or not doing will post. problem started when i had alot of corrosion inside my batt cable to care of all that rec was burnt replaced still had problem replaced stator . It worked for one trip then problem again. Sorry for grammar not publishing a book . thanks !,It seems the surging and shutting off only happens once the rectifier gets hot. it is a 2004 f115txrc..i unhooked tachometer just to see problem was still there.,It seems the surging and shutting off only happens once the rectifier gets hot. it is a 2004 f115txrc..i unhooked tachometer just to see problem was still there.,"Thanks for the reply, and thank you for giving me a starting point to figure this problem out" +Yamaha f115 randomly dies when above idle.It doesn't do it when rectifier is unplugged. replaced rectifier and stator. cleaned connections and new batt cables. engine is charging when rectifier is plugged up. The rec also gets pretty hot. also when it dies or sometimes surges the tach go completely off like no power. thanks in advance if i think of any other stuff its doing or not doing will post. problem started when i had alot of corrosion inside my batt cable to care of all that rec was burnt replaced still had problem replaced stator . It worked for one trip then problem again. Sorry for grammar not publishing a book . thanks !,not sure yet only way to know is to take it out and run it a few times . But i think it is a bad battery maybe shorted. Switched my perko to one battery and it acted fine no surging . Then back to the other after a few minutes it started acting up again. hopefully it.,not sure yet only way to know is to take it out and run it a few times . But i think it is a bad battery maybe shorted. Switched my perko to one battery and it acted fine no surging . Then back to the other after a few minutes it started acting up again. hopefully it.,Step #1 is drain the gear oil.----Look for metal bits in the oil ? +Yamaha f115 randomly dies when above idle.It doesn't do it when rectifier is unplugged. replaced rectifier and stator. cleaned connections and new batt cables. engine is charging when rectifier is plugged up. The rec also gets pretty hot. also when it dies or sometimes surges the tach go completely off like no power. thanks in advance if i think of any other stuff its doing or not doing will post. problem started when i had alot of corrosion inside my batt cable to care of all that rec was burnt replaced still had problem replaced stator . It worked for one trip then problem again. Sorry for grammar not publishing a book . thanks !,"I just had to replaced my rectifier 150 hpdi, yours might be the same . They are water cooled . The water that pees overboard goes through the base of the rectifier. It may be clogged and overheating. Good luck","I just had to replaced my rectifier 150 hpdi, yours might be the same . They are water cooled . The water that pees overboard goes through the base of the rectifier. It may be clogged and overheating. Good luck",Dave Use a colon : or semi-colon ; and a parentheses ) right next to each other +New day fishing and a new problem . I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines . My left engine reads 18 volts and my right engine reads 13.5 to 14 volts. Eighteen volts seams to high to me. Is there any adjustment I could make . Any help as always are welcome and thanks ... Bob,18v is too high..this is probably a bad regulator...one question just out of curiosity...is the battery new on the engine that reads high?,18v is too high..this is probably a bad regulator...one question just out of curiosity...is the battery new on the engine that reads high?,johnnyG here Ihave a degree in electronics and gotsea is spot on!! +New day fishing and a new problem . I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines . My left engine reads 18 volts and my right engine reads 13.5 to 14 volts. Eighteen volts seams to high to me. Is there any adjustment I could make . Any help as always are welcome and thanks ... Bob,"papyson said: + + + + 18v is too high..this is probably a bad regulator...one question just out of curiosity...is the battery new on the engine that reads high? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes it's a new battery , I replaced both engine batteries at the same time about a month ago.","papyson said: + + + + 18v is too high..this is probably a bad regulator...one question just out of curiosity...is the battery new on the engine that reads high? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes it's a new battery , I replaced both engine batteries at the same time about a month ago.","You probably have a busted exhaust manifold or cracked head. + +Post this issue on the Evinrude Forum on this site. Got to the top of this page and lick on ""Forum Home"" and pick Evinrude from the list." +New day fishing and a new problem . I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines . My left engine reads 18 volts and my right engine reads 13.5 to 14 volts. Eighteen volts seams to high to me. Is there any adjustment I could make . Any help as always are welcome and thanks ... Bob,still think its the regulator but I would swap batteries just in case...,still think its the regulator but I would swap batteries just in case...,"Hello. I visited your website and as much as I understood, you specialize in the repair, and refit of all size yachts with haul out capability up to 70 tons and mobile service options. This is pretty impressive, and to tell the truth, I’ve never heard of your company before, but I will do my research and find out more. I'm specialized in marine electrical engineering, and with the pandemic going on, it’s hard to find a good job opportunity, so I’m glad I found this post. I’m looking forward to having a great experience, and hopefully a good collaboration." +New day fishing and a new problem . I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines . My left engine reads 18 volts and my right engine reads 13.5 to 14 volts. Eighteen volts seams to high to me. Is there any adjustment I could make . Any help as always are welcome and thanks ... Bob,"Thanks for the help guys. +I replaced the rectifier/regulator and now it reads 12v and sometimes 11.5. +Now onto my other problems. I will post it .","Thanks for the help guys. +I replaced the rectifier/regulator and now it reads 12v and sometimes 11.5. +Now onto my other problems. I will post it .","I just re-read your OP. The problem with using your compressor is the air is not dried, notice how much moisture comes out when you purge the tank each day...you do purge it, right? +N is not super light, it’s close to normal “air”, so it won’t dissipate upwards as quickly as say helium or even propane. +I would have lots of holes drilled, to near the bottom of your transom. +You don’t need blasts of N, just a trickle, & it will move liquid or water vapour easier than ice. +Its used in tires not so much as it doesn’t change pressure with temperature,(it does), but it keeps moisture out, so you don’t get frost crystals & leaks in really cold weather, & prevents combustion on jet tires in case of hit brakes. +They use lots of it in the oil/gas industry, displaces moisture & prevents corrosion in empty pipes/vessels, along with lessening explosion hazard. We have onboard N generators that fill the jet fuel tanks as they’re emptied." +New day fishing and a new problem . I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines . My left engine reads 18 volts and my right engine reads 13.5 to 14 volts. Eighteen volts seams to high to me. Is there any adjustment I could make . Any help as always are welcome and thanks ... Bob,that's too low,that's too low,"1992 model year two stroke 90 HP outboard motors. Not sold here in the USA. + +Where in the world are you? + +Yamaha USA offers either piece parts or just one water pump kit." +New day fishing and a new problem . I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines . My left engine reads 18 volts and my right engine reads 13.5 to 14 volts. Eighteen volts seams to high to me. Is there any adjustment I could make . Any help as always are welcome and thanks ... Bob,"Never thought of it being to Low . What should the voltage be ?. The voltage reading is on the Yamaha indicator. Do you know where it is taken from ? +The batteries are new . I have one for the engine and the other is the house battery. + I installed a blue star battery switch and a sensing relay . It lets you charge both batteries when underway but prevents you from using you engine battery when stopped. Could this have some effect on the low voltage some how ?","Never thought of it being to Low . What should the voltage be ?. The voltage reading is on the Yamaha indicator. Do you know where it is taken from ? +The batteries are new . I have one for the engine and the other is the house battery. + I installed a blue star battery switch and a sensing relay . It lets you charge both batteries when underway but prevents you from using you engine battery when stopped. Could this have some effect on the low voltage some how ?","Below is an url for a workshop manual for the 90 AETO amongst other motors, might be useful + +http://folk.uio.no/froder/stuff/50GETO_6H2_28197_Z9_11.pdf" +New day fishing and a new problem . I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines . My left engine reads 18 volts and my right engine reads 13.5 to 14 volts. Eighteen volts seams to high to me. Is there any adjustment I could make . Any help as always are welcome and thanks ... Bob,"voltage on a fully charged battery should be in the 12.7 range...when the engine is running it should go above that..i have no idea where the ''Yamaha indicator'' is getting that reading but the boat voltmeter should be wired to the voltage coming off the battery...charge the batteries and see what the indicator reads..use a meter and compare the reading of the indicator and the voltage between posts of the battery..if they don't read the same then you probably have a wiring error. + +when did you install the battery switch?..if it was done during or since you was troubleshooting the other problem I would uninstall it and go with original wiring until I got the voltages right...you could have two problems now ...this will eliminate the 2nd one if present.. + +I am not a fan of charging two batteries with the output of an outboard....but that's beside the point now...","voltage on a fully charged battery should be in the 12.7 range...when the engine is running it should go above that..i have no idea where the ''Yamaha indicator'' is getting that reading but the boat voltmeter should be wired to the voltage coming off the battery...charge the batteries and see what the indicator reads..use a meter and compare the reading of the indicator and the voltage between posts of the battery..if they don't read the same then you probably have a wiring error. + +when did you install the battery switch?..if it was done during or since you was troubleshooting the other problem I would uninstall it and go with original wiring until I got the voltages right...you could have two problems now ...this will eliminate the 2nd one if present.. + +I am not a fan of charging two batteries with the output of an outboard....but that's beside the point now...","Based on your description, I would suspect that there is a short in the wiring harness between the engine and the console. If that's the original harness, at 30 years old it's bound to have issues. Try to find a replacement and test it extensively before installing by making sure that a voltage appied to any one wire does not bleed over to any of the other wires in the harness. + +Alternatively, you can make your own harness using different colored wires that you can buy from West Marine or Jamestown Distributors. Try to match the colors used in the original harness. If that is not possible, then write down the color of the wire for used for each function, trying to stick to the Use 14 gauge marine (tinned) wiring. + +Here is the link to the typical color codes you will want to use: http://www.marinemechanic.com/site/page101.html + +Don't try to power any of your instruments, except gauges, off of the harness or key switch. Instead, run separate positive and negative wires from your battery switch and battery ground to distribution panels under the console. Then run all of your instruments off of those panels - VHF, nav lights, GPS, Horn, internal lights, wipers, etc. etc. Depending on your total load, use either 12, 10, or even 8 AWG if you happen to use a windless. The positive distribution panel should be completely fused. + +If you send an e-mail to me at [email protected], I'll send back a typical wiring diagram for a small boat. It's for an outboard set up, but not much different than for an I/O. + +One other thought. One way to burn up an alternator is having a bad ground off the battery to the engine block. Are you absolutely sure that your battery ground wire is in top notch condition and is well grounded to the block? If you are operating in saltwater, those ground wires can deteriorate internally - look fine on the outside, but badly corroded inside and will not carry the amps needed." +New day fishing and a new problem . I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines . My left engine reads 18 volts and my right engine reads 13.5 to 14 volts. Eighteen volts seams to high to me. Is there any adjustment I could make . Any help as always are welcome and thanks ... Bob,"I found the problem why I was reading low voltage. I was all the time reading the battery voltage and not the output from the regular. After having a battery go dead on the water I swapped a battery and than one ran down. No output , Why ? +My fault,. When changing the regular I didn't hook up a ground wire. Easy to do when you have to remove 5 ground wires . No ground , no output. My fault...Murphy's Law","I found the problem why I was reading low voltage. I was all the time reading the battery voltage and not the output from the regular. After having a battery go dead on the water I swapped a battery and than one ran down. No output , Why ? +My fault,. When changing the regular I didn't hook up a ground wire. Easy to do when you have to remove 5 ground wires . No ground , no output. My fault...Murphy's Law",I will look in the morning or i might go down tonight yet is it on the same plat as the 15A nn ? +"Hi Forum, + +I have an elderly 2 stroke 2 hp Mariner - it's not been used for years. In storage, it leaks fuel from ""somewhere in carb system"". The symptom is fuel dripping from under the front engine control plate. It's definitely not a leaking float chamber gasket,(which was my first thought). The fuel lines and fuel cock seem to be in good condition. Its's a Model 6A1, serial number 125832. Before taking the thing to bits, I'd appreciate any suggestions - eg sticking/faulty float????? + +I'm based in the UK. + +Thanks in advance + +Andrew","If it was stored with fuel in the carburetor it may be gummed up.---------Requires cleaning , and usually no parts required.","If it was stored with fuel in the carburetor it may be gummed up.---------Requires cleaning , and usually no parts required.","reassemble it, hook up your meter and test it in place with the shift control." +"Hi Forum, + +I have an elderly 2 stroke 2 hp Mariner - it's not been used for years. In storage, it leaks fuel from ""somewhere in carb system"". The symptom is fuel dripping from under the front engine control plate. It's definitely not a leaking float chamber gasket,(which was my first thought). The fuel lines and fuel cock seem to be in good condition. Its's a Model 6A1, serial number 125832. Before taking the thing to bits, I'd appreciate any suggestions - eg sticking/faulty float????? + +I'm based in the UK. + +Thanks in advance + +Andrew","I ran the thing dry when last used: I turned fuel cock off, and ran it until it stopped. Though I am prepared to accept that this may not in fact be fully empty - just not enough fuel to run. The fuel leakage is from the underside of the black plastic face plate/air intake assembly. It looks a bit of a pig to take off! + +Best Regds + +Andrew","I ran the thing dry when last used: I turned fuel cock off, and ran it until it stopped. Though I am prepared to accept that this may not in fact be fully empty - just not enough fuel to run. The fuel leakage is from the underside of the black plastic face plate/air intake assembly. It looks a bit of a pig to take off! + +Best Regds + +Andrew",Go to your local RV service center for advise.----------------Very common with the camping crowd.-------Every day stuff for those folks. +"Hi Forum, + +I have an elderly 2 stroke 2 hp Mariner - it's not been used for years. In storage, it leaks fuel from ""somewhere in carb system"". The symptom is fuel dripping from under the front engine control plate. It's definitely not a leaking float chamber gasket,(which was my first thought). The fuel lines and fuel cock seem to be in good condition. Its's a Model 6A1, serial number 125832. Before taking the thing to bits, I'd appreciate any suggestions - eg sticking/faulty float????? + +I'm based in the UK. + +Thanks in advance + +Andrew",Nothing is hard to work on on these motors !,Nothing is hard to work on on these motors !,"bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,...... Are you leavin' the plug outa the hull, so it can drain,..?? + +If not, ya should,.... + +Click to expand... + + +I am not. The drain plug takes a socket screw.. from now on I’m definitely going to pull that plug when the boat is out of water. I thought it wouldn’t matter because the water just sits in the bilge! + +When I pull the boat out of underground dry storage next season, I plan to re-seal every bit of the hull as well as get a new boat cover. + +I was considering having the carpet redone and adding some kind of silicone spray sealant to the deck before the new carpet is laid down.. although this would be expensive and my gut is telling me it’s probably not worth it.. any thoughts?" +"Hi Forum, + +I have an elderly 2 stroke 2 hp Mariner - it's not been used for years. In storage, it leaks fuel from ""somewhere in carb system"". The symptom is fuel dripping from under the front engine control plate. It's definitely not a leaking float chamber gasket,(which was my first thought). The fuel lines and fuel cock seem to be in good condition. Its's a Model 6A1, serial number 125832. Before taking the thing to bits, I'd appreciate any suggestions - eg sticking/faulty float????? + +I'm based in the UK. + +Thanks in advance + +Andrew","I also should have said ""Thank You"" for your prompt reply! I see the throttle lever knob is held onto the lever itself with a phillips screw, but is the choke knob just a push fit? I've down loaded a parts manual for the motor,(in fact the Yamaha version) which shows various exploded views of the various major units, including the fuel system - think I need to give myself an unhurried hour or so in the garage. + +Thanks and Best Regds + +Andrew","I also should have said ""Thank You"" for your prompt reply! I see the throttle lever knob is held onto the lever itself with a phillips screw, but is the choke knob just a push fit? I've down loaded a parts manual for the motor,(in fact the Yamaha version) which shows various exploded views of the various major units, including the fuel system - think I need to give myself an unhurried hour or so in the garage. + +Thanks and Best Regds + +Andrew","Using the Yamaha parts catalogs, compare the component differences between your 20 HP model and the most similar (by type and year) 25 HP model. Remove any parts that are peculiar to your model (not used on the 25 HP). Buy and install any parts that are peculiar to the 25 HP model (not used on your 20 HP model. You will now have the equivalent power output of the 25 HP motor." +"Hi All + +My pontoon has a 2004 Yamaha F50 4 stroke engine. The engine started up and idled fine, but when I went to give it some gas the engine sounded like it wanted to stall. This is when it's not in gear. I had to feather the throttle up to get it to go to higher RPMs. + +It was also running rough and mis-firing a bit under load (in gear and cruising at around 2000-3000rpm - hard to know exactly as the tach is not working either....that's another problem). + +I thought it may have been bad gas or may have got some water in the gas (the tank was at <1/4 full and was in there all winter - I did use Sta-bil when I winterized it). I put about 6 gallons of new 93 octane in it and also about 6 oz of Heet to see if that would clear up the issue. + +It didn't. + +Still have mis-firing and runs rough at 2500-3200 rpm while in gear. + +Do you think it still could be the gas that's in there or do I have something else I need to look into? + +Thanks for the advice.","Hi 101mph, + +Did you get to the bottom of this issue wit your Yam? + +I have very similar symptoms - any help will be gratefully received. + +Thanks, Rob","Hi 101mph, + +Did you get to the bottom of this issue wit your Yam? + +I have very similar symptoms - any help will be gratefully received. + +Thanks, Rob","One method that can free stuck bolts etc is to drill a hole (or holes) through the tube/casing etc into he stuck area and use that to insert penetrating oil. Let it soak, apply heat, cool, add more oil etc. Once it is free you can either fill up the holes with epoxy metal or thread the hole and insert a grub screw with Locktite as a hole filler. Maybe in your case even add an extra grease zerk." +"Hi All + +My pontoon has a 2004 Yamaha F50 4 stroke engine. The engine started up and idled fine, but when I went to give it some gas the engine sounded like it wanted to stall. This is when it's not in gear. I had to feather the throttle up to get it to go to higher RPMs. + +It was also running rough and mis-firing a bit under load (in gear and cruising at around 2000-3000rpm - hard to know exactly as the tach is not working either....that's another problem). + +I thought it may have been bad gas or may have got some water in the gas (the tank was at <1/4 full and was in there all winter - I did use Sta-bil when I winterized it). I put about 6 gallons of new 93 octane in it and also about 6 oz of Heet to see if that would clear up the issue. + +It didn't. + +Still have mis-firing and runs rough at 2500-3200 rpm while in gear. + +Do you think it still could be the gas that's in there or do I have something else I need to look into? + +Thanks for the advice.","robfnet said: + + + + Hi 101mph, + +Did you get to the bottom of this issue wit your Yam? + +I have very similar symptoms - any help will be gratefully received. + +Thanks, Rob + +Click to expand... + + +It was the carburetor being a bit gummed up. I was fortunate to only have to run about 3 bottles of Techron fuel system cleaner at ""triple dose"" concentration and not have to remove them and clean them out. After running the Techron thru it, all of a sudden it was like a light switch turned on....at 2400 rpm the engine was running rough.... then smoothed out and purred like a kitten.","robfnet said: + + + + Hi 101mph, + +Did you get to the bottom of this issue wit your Yam? + +I have very similar symptoms - any help will be gratefully received. + +Thanks, Rob + +Click to expand... + + +It was the carburetor being a bit gummed up. I was fortunate to only have to run about 3 bottles of Techron fuel system cleaner at ""triple dose"" concentration and not have to remove them and clean them out. After running the Techron thru it, all of a sudden it was like a light switch turned on....at 2400 rpm the engine was running rough.... then smoothed out and purred like a kitten.",can you explain it how to run with timing light? +"I have a 2003 VX250. Trouble starting after arriving on flats, engine turned off for some time. Symptom fuel pump doesn't always turn on when I turn on ignition key, thus engine won't start. Doesn't always happen. Mech ran some tests load side of stator only putting out 9.7 volts should be a minimum of 100 volts. Would this stator output problem cause the fuel pump to not come on? We aren't sure. With the load side output so low we don't think the batteries are not being fully charged, so could running trolling motor lower battery charge level enough to prohibit the fuel pump from running?",If the engine does not see minimum cranking RPM it will not start.,If the engine does not see minimum cranking RPM it will not start.,"rjw4259 said: + + + + Guys, some additional information on my fuel starvation problem. Attached is a photo of the fuel bowl showing the level of the fuel at 5000rpm's versus at idle, the first picture is at 5000rpm's, the second is at idle. As the picture shows there is a fuel filter in there atop a spring and a little orange ring at the bottom of the bowl. You can see the level of the fuel fluctuating as the engine speed is increased. My question is it normal for the fuel bowl to look like this as the engine is speeded up, I can also see what looks like big air bubbles occasionally? Thought this observation may be important. Thanks guys! +rjw4259 + +View attachment 27088View attachment 27089 + +Click to expand... + + +That is normal. + +The flattened primer ball is the clue." +"I have a 2003 VX250. Trouble starting after arriving on flats, engine turned off for some time. Symptom fuel pump doesn't always turn on when I turn on ignition key, thus engine won't start. Doesn't always happen. Mech ran some tests load side of stator only putting out 9.7 volts should be a minimum of 100 volts. Would this stator output problem cause the fuel pump to not come on? We aren't sure. With the load side output so low we don't think the batteries are not being fully charged, so could running trolling motor lower battery charge level enough to prohibit the fuel pump from running?","It cranks just fine but elect fuel pump doesn't always come on. +Thanks for your reply","It cranks just fine but elect fuel pump doesn't always come on. +Thanks for your reply","Need to help +I have changed a new thermostat and a new impeller and the change new oil and filter nothing helps..." +"Hi, this nice one owner has good spark on all 3 cylinders but seems to be out of time on cylinder #1. Trigger, stator, tach all check out to CDI's repair manual specks. Is it true that this motor is supposed to start and idle with the absence of spark on cyl. #2? The power pack on this model is mechanically enhanced. What gives, it ran great for 20 years? Thanks, Geedo","By the way, the model # is P60TLHU. Thanks for any help. Geedo, Duluth MN","By the way, the model # is P60TLHU. Thanks for any help. Geedo, Duluth MN","Thanks...nothing better than to learn from the experienced. My project is a 2020 Yamaha 150 with I believe only 37 hours total time. Skeg damage was with engine off and no substantial physical damage to prop so at present I'm assuming no internal shaft or bearing issues.Even with low hours, will install new impeller set and prop shaft seals. Beyond that, because I am not comfortable with gear lash adjustments, I would hope not to dis-assemble the entire lower unit. My main worries concern degree of heat within. + +Also, being a 2020, does anyone suggest a paint match number for the Yamaha lower unit. Would use automotive probably to repaint after grind/sand/finish? +Gerry + + + + + +makomark said: + + + + Never done a Yamaha but a few Mercury lowers. We always stripped them down, usually because they were inspected to ensure the gears/bearings/shafts were serviceable (typically after the impact the shortened the skegs)...so only the housings went to the welder... + +when they came back in, they were ground flush, and fared out then painted...then reassembled. + +Click to expand..." +"Hi, this nice one owner has good spark on all 3 cylinders but seems to be out of time on cylinder #1. Trigger, stator, tach all check out to CDI's repair manual specks. Is it true that this motor is supposed to start and idle with the absence of spark on cyl. #2? The power pack on this model is mechanically enhanced. What gives, it ran great for 20 years? Thanks, Geedo","Hello, anybody out there wise to this problem?","Hello, anybody out there wise to this problem?","rowch01 said: + + + + So last night I ran the motor on the trailer with water muffs for about 15-20 min with no leaks what so ever. Maybe the person that owned the boat previous to me was mistaken ? Im not sure what else to do to check for a water leak, is there a way to pressurize the cooling system other than what I have already done ? + +Click to expand... + + +Being that he was selling the boat/motor to you and fully disclosed the block was leaking, I'd take his word for it. First thing that comes to mind as to why the motor didn't leak while on muffs is because the engine is not under load. Essentially, the motor doesn't have to work while on flush. Pistons are torqued, cylinders are under high pressure. + +2 options for you to run the engine under load.... + +1st, back the boat down the boat ramp and submerge the boat deep enough in the water to allow the engine to be lowered completely without the prop hitting bottom. Leave the boat hooked to the bow winch and leave the transom straps on. Make sure these are tight. Take top cowling off. Start motor and allow to warm up for a few minutes. Then put in forward gear and slowly begin to accelerate. Work your way up from idle speed to 2k. Keep it running and look at the engine for the leak. + +2nd option. Launch the boat and run it. I'd stay nearby the ramp just in case. Leave the top cowling off while you run it. Probably safer to bring a friend who can keep an eye on the engine to let you know if/when it leaks. Put stress on the motor, run it hard, try to induce the leak. If it leaks you'd wanna know now, not when you're out pleasure boating." +"Hi, this nice one owner has good spark on all 3 cylinders but seems to be out of time on cylinder #1. Trigger, stator, tach all check out to CDI's repair manual specks. Is it true that this motor is supposed to start and idle with the absence of spark on cyl. #2? The power pack on this model is mechanically enhanced. What gives, it ran great for 20 years? Thanks, Geedo",Maybe I'll have to post this with the Merc or OMC techs???? Yamahas rarely break down.,Maybe I'll have to post this with the Merc or OMC techs???? Yamahas rarely break down.,If the fuel pressure is dropping it is not the injectors. You have a fuel supply problem to the High pressure pump or the high pressure pump itself is bad. Disconnect the vacuum line to the regulator and retest for the pressure loss. +"Hi, this nice one owner has good spark on all 3 cylinders but seems to be out of time on cylinder #1. Trigger, stator, tach all check out to CDI's repair manual specks. Is it true that this motor is supposed to start and idle with the absence of spark on cyl. #2? The power pack on this model is mechanically enhanced. What gives, it ran great for 20 years? Thanks, Geedo","Hey, is anybody out there who can advise please.","Hey, is anybody out there who can advise please.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Yamaha builds an extremely good product. Not designed to be serviced by the owner. + +If you are losing fuel pressure and the VST and screen are clean, then you have lack of fuel flow to the VST. Make sure the low pressure supply pump is working. Make sure you do not have a kink in the fuel line somewhere between the primer ball and the VST. Make sure there are no restrictions on the fuel supply side in the VST including the vent. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Chris, +Actually only been two of the best outboard guys around working on the engine. I just watch but when you keep throwing money it gets frustrating and you start looking to the promised land for help. As you know, these intermittent problems like most will drive people nuts and I believe you are on the right track. Every time we clean the VST we wiggle the problem and it works for awhile or we are sucking air slowly and takes 20 hours to have an effect. While the fuel lines have no visible kinks,what do you think about installing a vacuum gauge on the front side to see of the pump is actually working or if we have a restriction. Some folks tell me if the engine runs, the lift pump is working. I am considering another thousand in injectors and replacing all the hoses and check valves on the engine. Do you know if the internal hoses are susceptible to damage from ethanol? +Some say only the external ones. +Can you please tell me how the VST is vented as this is a first for me. When the problem exists, I have run the boat several times on an external tank and it makes no difference. So my main focus has been on the area from the front filter to the VST where I too believe the problem exists. Any help would be appreciated. +While Yamaha might make a good product, their support sucks. All I have been looking for is a number I can call and have someone (don't care if they are indian and reading from a book) say ok do this first. I understand they want me to take it to their tecks but the closest one is 2500 miles away. I simply can't. + +I believe there are many hints. +Boat never stops running, ever +RPM range where the bogging starts differs all the time. +When it's not happening I get 6000 screaming RPM's. +When the problem is happening squeezing the ball makes no difference +When the problem is happening pinching the fuel line makes no difference. +Computer has never shown any faults. +When the fuel pressure on the rail drops to 20 lbs the engine runs rough. + +This time we had to bring the boat in for 2 hours at 2000 rpm. It ran extremely rough. When we opened the engine the fuel boxes were saturated with fuel and the #1 sparkplug was fouled. All other plugs showed a lack of fuel. I believe this is a result of running the engine with low fuel pressure and not part of the problem. Any feelings? Could one sticky injector cause all the fuel to dump? I am concerned about long term damage from running the engine like this or a possible hydro-lock?? +Thanks for your help as again any will be appreciated. +Rick" +"I have a 2004 200 OX-66 SWS-II Injected. +It runs like a champ but started to drop rpm's at low speed (like in a no wake zone) What should be 6-750 rpm's in gear, struggles to maintain 500 and will drop to 3-400 and die if not brought up to 700+. +So I thought no big deal its an adjustment issue. Pull the cowling while idling and the motor runs just fine, ok crap gas or some other one off ancillary issue... put the cowling back on and the engine stumbles down to 3-400 rpm! My partner held the wheel while trolling along, I pull the cowling off and the engine recovers and trolls along, not missing a beat at 700rpm. Drop the cowling back on and she stumbles. +With the cowling on if I bring the throttle up to 900+ rpm the engine runs perfect. +My thought is there is an exhaust leak that is blowing air into the cowling during low speed. Any suggestions or ideas, especially with those that have dealt with this. +If Im on the right track with the exhaust leak, where do I look for a likely or common culprit? + +Before you ask +415 hrs +New gas filter +New plugs +New water/gas seperator +Compression 129-131 across the board. +ONLY NO ETH in this engine and Ring Free every gas up",You may want to look for a leaking spark plug boot.,You may want to look for a leaking spark plug boot.,"Ayuh,..... It's a boat in the water, not a car on pavement,...... + +That don't look to bad,...." +Ok got to take my boat out the othere day all good at half throttle. When i open it up smokes like a 2 stroke. Only not oil smoke smells like sulfur kinda a black or dark gray smoke. I ran it hard thought it might clear out it didnt. Checked the oil when i was done did not burn a drop. Any thoughts,What fuel are you running ?,What fuel are you running ?,"If its the audio warning horn, then it sounds like the wiring in the dash has gotten loose (maybe). + +reconnect battery and then find the horn, if its going off - if its standard mercruiser stuff, it (the horn) should have a purple wire (likely from one of the instruments and a tan/blue wire with a bullet connector. separate the bullet connector and hopefully, the horn should shut off. take a voltmeter and probe between the purple wire and a black wire at the instrument where the purple wire from the horn connects. If you have +12VDC, then something is providing current to the instruments (should be the key switch but that should still be OFF). + +If you have another set of eyes, they can watch the instruments when the battery gets reconnected..." +Ok got to take my boat out the othere day all good at half throttle. When i open it up smokes like a 2 stroke. Only not oil smoke smells like sulfur kinda a black or dark gray smoke. I ran it hard thought it might clear out it didnt. Checked the oil when i was done did not burn a drop. Any thoughts,"racerone said: + + + + What fuel are you running ? + +Click to expand... + + +No ethanol gas","racerone said: + + + + What fuel are you running ? + +Click to expand... + + +No ethanol gas","Thanks gotboat, I will folllow your ideas and let you know how It goes." +"Does V6 2 stroke have a low and high speed winding on the stator? Motor keeps cutting out about 3000 rpm under load. Has no spark to #6 cylinder, coil not sparking. Swapped coil, no change. Changed fuel, filters, fuel pump, no change. Pulser coil? Why only one dead col? Not two? Stator, high speed winding? Help",Maybe you have a bad plug? bad wire?,Maybe you have a bad plug? bad wire?,It runs all the time when engine is running. 3 -4 seconds when you turn key on +"Does V6 2 stroke have a low and high speed winding on the stator? Motor keeps cutting out about 3000 rpm under load. Has no spark to #6 cylinder, coil not sparking. Swapped coil, no change. Changed fuel, filters, fuel pump, no change. Pulser coil? Why only one dead col? Not two? Stator, high speed winding? Help","Maybe you have a bad plug? bad wire? Don't think so. I swapped out the coil with another cylinder, the other cylinder with the #6 coil fired fine on the ""new"" cylinder but #6 still didn't. Changed plugs too, no change, still no fire on #6. Changed the CPS and the pulser coil, #6 fires now. Still seems to be in rpm reduction no more than 3000 rpm.","Maybe you have a bad plug? bad wire? Don't think so. I swapped out the coil with another cylinder, the other cylinder with the #6 coil fired fine on the ""new"" cylinder but #6 still didn't. Changed plugs too, no change, still no fire on #6. Changed the CPS and the pulser coil, #6 fires now. Still seems to be in rpm reduction no more than 3000 rpm.","I saw that the starboard cabinets and seats are tilted to the right. Did buoyancy foam expand under the deck when the deck was being repaired? How tough will it be to get the seats and seat cabinets off of the starboard side of the deck? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,....... That, would be my guess,...... + +This depends on how much access ya got for a grinder, or saws-all,....." +"Does V6 2 stroke have a low and high speed winding on the stator? Motor keeps cutting out about 3000 rpm under load. Has no spark to #6 cylinder, coil not sparking. Swapped coil, no change. Changed fuel, filters, fuel pump, no change. Pulser coil? Why only one dead col? Not two? Stator, high speed winding? Help",Thanks all for the help. I solved both of the problems the engine seemed to be having. Replacing the pulse coil gave spark back to #6 and a new stator solved the runnability problem. Gets up and goes now.,Thanks all for the help. I solved both of the problems the engine seemed to be having. Replacing the pulse coil gave spark back to #6 and a new stator solved the runnability problem. Gets up and goes now.,Speedometer hose and has nothing to do with the way the motor runs.-----Start with a compression test.-------That costs Zero money to do. +"Does V6 2 stroke have a low and high speed winding on the stator? Motor keeps cutting out about 3000 rpm under load. Has no spark to #6 cylinder, coil not sparking. Swapped coil, no change. Changed fuel, filters, fuel pump, no change. Pulser coil? Why only one dead col? Not two? Stator, high speed winding? Help","Snakeriversailor77 said: + + + + Thanks all for the help. I solved both of the problems the engine seemed to be having. Replacing the pulse coil gave spark back to #6 and a new stator solved the runnability problem. Gets up and goes now. + +Click to expand... + + + + +Good deal. Glad you have it going. I'm still trouble shooting my center bar flashing on oil gauge.","Snakeriversailor77 said: + + + + Thanks all for the help. I solved both of the problems the engine seemed to be having. Replacing the pulse coil gave spark back to #6 and a new stator solved the runnability problem. Gets up and goes now. + +Click to expand... + + + + +Good deal. Glad you have it going. I'm still trouble shooting my center bar flashing on oil gauge.","Some year you might find it handy to open and read your owner's manual. Now if and when you do, you might just find a chart that tells you when to inspect and change parts. Such as the anodes." +"Does V6 2 stroke have a low and high speed winding on the stator? Motor keeps cutting out about 3000 rpm under load. Has no spark to #6 cylinder, coil not sparking. Swapped coil, no change. Changed fuel, filters, fuel pump, no change. Pulser coil? Why only one dead col? Not two? Stator, high speed winding? Help","An update, the engine worked great for two test runs and about an additional 20 minutes before acting up again, back to limited rpm at 3000. Checked sync and link appeared either on or close. Idle seems too slow and will stall now. Observe the only way for the engine to start is to engage the choke. Yamaha master tech suggested a intermittant cdi problem. Owner doesnt want to pay for more parts and feels the other expensive parts didnt solve anything.","An update, the engine worked great for two test runs and about an additional 20 minutes before acting up again, back to limited rpm at 3000. Checked sync and link appeared either on or close. Idle seems too slow and will stall now. Observe the only way for the engine to start is to engage the choke. Yamaha master tech suggested a intermittant cdi problem. Owner doesnt want to pay for more parts and feels the other expensive parts didnt solve anything.","maybe a couple pictures would help....I've read thru the last couple posts and can't produce a consistent image of what you are seeing. + +If you look up the wheel, you should be able to tell if it a cable-based system. + +Finally, was the steering fine with the 40hp unit installed? Was this verified before it was removed?" +"Does V6 2 stroke have a low and high speed winding on the stator? Motor keeps cutting out about 3000 rpm under load. Has no spark to #6 cylinder, coil not sparking. Swapped coil, no change. Changed fuel, filters, fuel pump, no change. Pulser coil? Why only one dead col? Not two? Stator, high speed winding? Help","Is there spark on all the holes? If yes, Pull the carbs. Clean them well. Roll up some emery cloth and sand out the float seats on the carb bodies. + +I have only changes a stator on a Yamaha two times in 20 years.","Is there spark on all the holes? If yes, Pull the carbs. Clean them well. Roll up some emery cloth and sand out the float seats on the carb bodies. + +I have only changes a stator on a Yamaha two times in 20 years.",By your screen name I would say you have a Grady White. Is the tank in your boat Fiberglass? +"Does V6 2 stroke have a low and high speed winding on the stator? Motor keeps cutting out about 3000 rpm under load. Has no spark to #6 cylinder, coil not sparking. Swapped coil, no change. Changed fuel, filters, fuel pump, no change. Pulser coil? Why only one dead col? Not two? Stator, high speed winding? Help","You are checking for a spark with a spark tester and not just looking for bunt fuel deposits . On my 2004 I had a bad fuel injector ,the plug was nice and clean . Not getting fuel but getting a spark.","You are checking for a spark with a spark tester and not just looking for bunt fuel deposits . On my 2004 I had a bad fuel injector ,the plug was nice and clean . Not getting fuel but getting a spark.","Equivalent to a 2009 production year USA model F115TLR. + + + + + + + +Parts can be found here. https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-year/2006-and-later/115hp/f115tlr-0409" +"I just cleaned out the four carbs. on my motor, as i had idle problems -they were pretty clean. Cleaned all jets and bodies individually with carb. cleaner and finished with compressed air. After assembly, started up and to my surprise, the motor only runs at 3-4K rpm! I can't get it to run lower or even idle. Butterfly valves are closed and individual idle adjustments remain as they were and checked throttle linkage. Very strange. Before I remove the carb. unit again, any suggestions?",Sometimes Carburetors run on the rich side. A air leak at the base gasket would suck air and lean it out and RPM would increase. Some thing to check GOOD LUCK,Sometimes Carburetors run on the rich side. A air leak at the base gasket would suck air and lean it out and RPM would increase. Some thing to check GOOD LUCK,What do the spark plugs look like? How long have you owned the boat? Is this a new problem? What does the gear oil look like? Is the hull clean? It could be alot of things fuel being one of them. Connect a portable tank of non ethanol fuel and see if performance improves? +"I just cleaned out the four carbs. on my motor, as i had idle problems -they were pretty clean. Cleaned all jets and bodies individually with carb. cleaner and finished with compressed air. After assembly, started up and to my surprise, the motor only runs at 3-4K rpm! I can't get it to run lower or even idle. Butterfly valves are closed and individual idle adjustments remain as they were and checked throttle linkage. Very strange. Before I remove the carb. unit again, any suggestions?",New one to me. Let us know what you find.,New one to me. Let us know what you find.,"Myles, sorry for the delay. Yes, the D4A is the direct replacement for the D3L. Actually slightly more BTU. You will need to order it with an endhood that fits your ducting, probably 3"" on your old D3L. You do not need the truck kit, only the main harness. All your old stuff will work(fuel lines, exhaust, combustionair intake muffler) You do need to make sure you get the fuel pump plug with it as the new fuel pump, which you have to use, has a modular plug on it. You need the plug, and the terminals that come with it. You need special crimpers to crimp the terminals onto the wire, but you could crimp the terminals on roughly with pliers and then solder the connection. All the wires on that harness are plain copper, not tinned as in the marine kit, so you would want to solder all connections, and then spray them with a waxy prtectant eg. FLUID FILM or dielectric grease. The truck kit has an exhaust, that is too small for your thru hull and exhaust elbow. If your existing exhaust is ok, you do not need a new one, and if you do you need 30mm, not the size that comes with the truck kit. The truck kit also comes with a muffler, but it is not suitable for a boat as it is not sealed. It is meant to go under a truck frame. There is a marine muffler available for the D4 that is 30 mm and 5 ft long, and flexible double wall construction. It can be cut down to as little as 26"" if needed. It does a fantastic job of muffling, but has a list price of $274.00. MSR in Wash. has a rigid welded muffler about 24 "" line that has to be spliced into the exhaust.It retails for about $130.00 It need to have a support bracket mad efor it as it weighs a few pound and need to be supported. You would need 2 more 30mm clamps for that. The new exhaust clamps are made of S/S not like the old ones that rust out. Seal all your joints with muffler cement, or high heat silicone to be safer. Make sure you put in a breaker in the power harness near your batteries, it should be 20 amps. Blue Sea makes one it is a push button resettable one with a threaded shaft for panel mounting. The truck harness is light gauge wire, so cut the power harness part as short as possible for a lower voltage loss. The best controller to get is the Digitroller, it has a digital display and will also display fault codes and you can unlock the heater if it lock out on too many overheats or failed starts." +"I just cleaned out the four carbs. on my motor, as i had idle problems -they were pretty clean. Cleaned all jets and bodies individually with carb. cleaner and finished with compressed air. After assembly, started up and to my surprise, the motor only runs at 3-4K rpm! I can't get it to run lower or even idle. Butterfly valves are closed and individual idle adjustments remain as they were and checked throttle linkage. Very strange. Before I remove the carb. unit again, any suggestions?","flabob1 said: + + + + Sometimes Carburetors run on the rich side. A air leak at the base gasket would suck air and lean it out and RPM would increase. Some thing to check GOOD LUCK + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for your suggestion. + +I took off the carb. bank and checked ""o"" rings seals, doesn't seem to be the problem. I have to take apart the carbs. again to install the Viton ""o"" rings onto the main nozzle caps as I used rubber ones to test my rebuild. But, even a small air leak should not enable the motor to go to 4K rpm with the butterflys completely closed. 4K rpm needs a lot of air!","flabob1 said: + + + + Sometimes Carburetors run on the rich side. A air leak at the base gasket would suck air and lean it out and RPM would increase. Some thing to check GOOD LUCK + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for your suggestion. + +I took off the carb. bank and checked ""o"" rings seals, doesn't seem to be the problem. I have to take apart the carbs. again to install the Viton ""o"" rings onto the main nozzle caps as I used rubber ones to test my rebuild. But, even a small air leak should not enable the motor to go to 4K rpm with the butterflys completely closed. 4K rpm needs a lot of air!","I took the RC case off the bulkhead and took the 3 case bolts out, decided to not rush into opening the box in case of disturbing sprung stuff...The local OMC guy was sick today. Stopped by a locksmith who, after a while, offered to impress a blank to get the keyway pattern. He said about 70% success with failure being non-destructive, said cost for first key and try would be $30. If the OMC guy doesn't have a good solution, I'd prefer not to disassemble the case to remove the key cylinder. The controls move very smoothly, the previous owner over greased everything." +"I just cleaned out the four carbs. on my motor, as i had idle problems -they were pretty clean. Cleaned all jets and bodies individually with carb. cleaner and finished with compressed air. After assembly, started up and to my surprise, the motor only runs at 3-4K rpm! I can't get it to run lower or even idle. Butterfly valves are closed and individual idle adjustments remain as they were and checked throttle linkage. Very strange. Before I remove the carb. unit again, any suggestions?","Didn't notice that you said 4K, We could rule out a air leak. + You didn't say if you advance the throttle if the rpms increase normal. Also that the throttle moves smoothly forward and aft. So I have to assume that it did. I would first say that your linkage ( cable ) is out of adjustment. + When at Idle you are supplying fuel by the float system inside of the carb. Think of it as a toilet bowl and how it works. If the float goes down you get more water in your bowl. In the carb when the float goes down fuel fills the chamber and shuts off when the float come up . When you start the engine at Idle the engine sucks the fuel and lifts the valve open and fuel from the float is sucked out. When you advance the throttle to high RPM a different valve ( jet )come into play and dumps fuel along with the fuel from the float chamber. + So if your linkage is correct what would increase your RPM and not let you reduce them. You have four carbs , what's command to four of them. It's possible you have a float sinking in the bowl or a valve seat bad of one carb and letting fuel out. That would increase the RPM. But 4K , It might ?. You still should be able to reduce the throttle and than it would be running rich and run rough. I worked on large A/C engines , Car engines and all float carb's work about the same. If this is a carb problem its a good one and I would like to know. Good luck.","Didn't notice that you said 4K, We could rule out a air leak. + You didn't say if you advance the throttle if the rpms increase normal. Also that the throttle moves smoothly forward and aft. So I have to assume that it did. I would first say that your linkage ( cable ) is out of adjustment. + When at Idle you are supplying fuel by the float system inside of the carb. Think of it as a toilet bowl and how it works. If the float goes down you get more water in your bowl. In the carb when the float goes down fuel fills the chamber and shuts off when the float come up . When you start the engine at Idle the engine sucks the fuel and lifts the valve open and fuel from the float is sucked out. When you advance the throttle to high RPM a different valve ( jet )come into play and dumps fuel along with the fuel from the float chamber. + So if your linkage is correct what would increase your RPM and not let you reduce them. You have four carbs , what's command to four of them. It's possible you have a float sinking in the bowl or a valve seat bad of one carb and letting fuel out. That would increase the RPM. But 4K , It might ?. You still should be able to reduce the throttle and than it would be running rich and run rough. I worked on large A/C engines , Car engines and all float carb's work about the same. If this is a carb problem its a good one and I would like to know. Good luck.","8kgold69 said: + + + + Thanks for the response. I apologize for not responding sooner. I pulled the intake manifold unit off, not that tough of a job, disassemble the VST tank, checked the filter on the bottom of the pump motor, some debree, but nothing that would restrick the fuel flow. Pulled spark plugs to see if any were gas fouled. All were dry which indicates none of the injectors are leaking. Checked the inline filter that goes from the fuel pump assy to the VST tank, clear. Made sure all fuel lines are clear. Checked the pickup in the fuel tank, not clogged. I've changed all the other filters. No difference in motor performance. Now looking at some of the parts diagrams on line I notice a couple of other parts that I think maybe causing a problem. After pulling up some parts websites I notice there is a Pressure regulator. It is under the FUEL INJECTION NOZZLE category item # 9. Then looking under the FUEL 1 category #14, fuel pump assy, there are two diaphrams. And then under the INTAKE 2 category, #13 is a filter assy that mounts under the fuel control valve assy. Could someone tell me if they have experience any problems with these items? I would appreciate any help. +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Have you tried priming the fuel bulb when you are at WOT to see if it gets the rpm? Low pressure fuel pumps are often the cause of the symptoms you are having." +"I just cleaned out the four carbs. on my motor, as i had idle problems -they were pretty clean. Cleaned all jets and bodies individually with carb. cleaner and finished with compressed air. After assembly, started up and to my surprise, the motor only runs at 3-4K rpm! I can't get it to run lower or even idle. Butterfly valves are closed and individual idle adjustments remain as they were and checked throttle linkage. Very strange. Before I remove the carb. unit again, any suggestions?","flabob1 said: + + + + Didn't notice that you said 4K, We could rule out a air leak. + You didn't say if you advance the throttle if the rpms increase normal. Also that the throttle moves smoothly forward and aft. So I have to assume that it did. I would first say that your linkage ( cable ) is out of adjustment. + When at Idle you are supplying fuel by the float system inside of the carb. Think of it as a toilet bowl and how it works. If the float goes down you get more water in your bowl. In the carb when the float goes down fuel fills the chamber and shuts off when the float come up . When you start the engine at Idle the engine sucks the fuel and lifts the valve open and fuel from the float is sucked out. When you advance the throttle to high RPM a different valve ( jet )come into play and dumps fuel along with the fuel from the float chamber. + So if your linkage is correct what would increase your RPM and not let you reduce them. You have four carbs , what's command to four of them. It's possible you have a float sinking in the bowl or a valve seat bad of one carb and letting fuel out. That would increase the RPM. But 4K , It might ?. You still should be able to reduce the throttle and than it would be running rich and run rough. I worked on large A/C engines , Car engines and all float carb's work about the same. If this is a carb problem its a good one and I would like to know. Good luck. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for your suggestions. I have rebuild a number of auto engines, including carbs. and even the old Rochester fuel injection systems so I am very familiar with fuel systems, but this one has me stumped. I disconnected the throttle and even applied pressure on the four carb linkage - which I checked to see if all butterflys were closing, they were - yet the dam thing still ran at 3-4K!!! Most problems I have read about concern poor idle, no start, or no high rpm speed, etc. If the floats were off, or the float needle was leaking, that would cause poor idle, or no idle at all. As I mentioned before, I have to get the correct O rings (Yamaha calls them ""washers"") for the caps to the main jets. When I do and - again - take apart these carbs, I'll check everything again and see if this still happens and let you know results, probably end of next week. Thanks, again.","flabob1 said: + + + + Didn't notice that you said 4K, We could rule out a air leak. + You didn't say if you advance the throttle if the rpms increase normal. Also that the throttle moves smoothly forward and aft. So I have to assume that it did. I would first say that your linkage ( cable ) is out of adjustment. + When at Idle you are supplying fuel by the float system inside of the carb. Think of it as a toilet bowl and how it works. If the float goes down you get more water in your bowl. In the carb when the float goes down fuel fills the chamber and shuts off when the float come up . When you start the engine at Idle the engine sucks the fuel and lifts the valve open and fuel from the float is sucked out. When you advance the throttle to high RPM a different valve ( jet )come into play and dumps fuel along with the fuel from the float chamber. + So if your linkage is correct what would increase your RPM and not let you reduce them. You have four carbs , what's command to four of them. It's possible you have a float sinking in the bowl or a valve seat bad of one carb and letting fuel out. That would increase the RPM. But 4K , It might ?. You still should be able to reduce the throttle and than it would be running rich and run rough. I worked on large A/C engines , Car engines and all float carb's work about the same. If this is a carb problem its a good one and I would like to know. Good luck. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for your suggestions. I have rebuild a number of auto engines, including carbs. and even the old Rochester fuel injection systems so I am very familiar with fuel systems, but this one has me stumped. I disconnected the throttle and even applied pressure on the four carb linkage - which I checked to see if all butterflys were closing, they were - yet the dam thing still ran at 3-4K!!! Most problems I have read about concern poor idle, no start, or no high rpm speed, etc. If the floats were off, or the float needle was leaking, that would cause poor idle, or no idle at all. As I mentioned before, I have to get the correct O rings (Yamaha calls them ""washers"") for the caps to the main jets. When I do and - again - take apart these carbs, I'll check everything again and see if this still happens and let you know results, probably end of next week. Thanks, again.",That looks like a fine piece of work. Congratulations! +"Hi Guys , got a good one this time. Most people have problems starting a engine mine will not shut down. + I have twin 2004 Yamaha 150 HPDI . When I turn the key off the engine will continue to runs and idles OK for about 15 sec. to 30 sec. + than shuts down with the key in the off position. The switch control panel was changed with no help. Any ideas ????","Loose ground somewhere. + +Does the kill switch cord do the same?","Loose ground somewhere. + +Does the kill switch cord do the same?","ashraf said: + + + + I have a 2015 Yamaha F250 4 stroke with only 30 hours. All of the sudden the connecting rod broke in half and breaking the cylinder block. I am in the process of changing the block and the connecting rod and piston. My concern is what could be the reason for such thing so it would not happen again. The engine was running fine when at the time of this problem. I am attaching a picture of the piston with the connecting rod and the block, the strange this is the it seems that the rod was bend before breaking. + +Click to expand... + +Pre-ignition or detonation comes to my mind. Piston is on its way up on the compression stroke. The air/gasoline mix either ignites prematurely on its own (pre-ignition) or after the spark plug ignites the air/gasoline mix the mix explodes (detonates) instead of burning smoothly over time. + +The forces in the combustion chamber are so high and violent that they try and push the piston back down in the cylinder at the very time that the crank shaft is trying to move it upwards. Something has to give. Appears to be the rod took the hit. The rod bends, breaks, and then damages the block." +"Hi Guys , got a good one this time. Most people have problems starting a engine mine will not shut down. + I have twin 2004 Yamaha 150 HPDI . When I turn the key off the engine will continue to runs and idles OK for about 15 sec. to 30 sec. + than shuts down with the key in the off position. The switch control panel was changed with no help. Any ideas ????","I had two problems and both was fixed. I been also having problems with #2 engine not staring about every 3rd trip out. After working the throttle and switch a number of times it would start. Also been having the Engine #1 not shutting down. Time to call my mechanic with his computer. The engines checked good and he said it the switch assy. The switch ?. how could that me . It's just a on off switch like a car , right ?. Not in this world today. There is a sealed circuit board behind the switch ,with the horn and a bunch of who knows what. Anyway $300 later and both problems are fixed. Hope you guys don't run into this .","I had two problems and both was fixed. I been also having problems with #2 engine not staring about every 3rd trip out. After working the throttle and switch a number of times it would start. Also been having the Engine #1 not shutting down. Time to call my mechanic with his computer. The engines checked good and he said it the switch assy. The switch ?. how could that me . It's just a on off switch like a car , right ?. Not in this world today. There is a sealed circuit board behind the switch ,with the horn and a bunch of who knows what. Anyway $300 later and both problems are fixed. Hope you guys don't run into this .","Its likely you will never get to the mechanical stop on each side...check the total stroke that the cable provides and then compare that to the left - right extent that the steering arm sweeps when you rotate the engine...I'd bet that's longer than the cable's stroke. Either way, you want the link to 'connect' when the cable is centered with the engine centered at the same time..." +"I have a Yamaha 115 4-stroke that recently started having a idle issue. When I am at the dock in neutral or slowly putting it on the trailer it will drop rpms and die around 500-600 rpms usually happens after it warms up. When I restart it idles high around 1300 rpm then slowly drops rpm and dies. On the water at speed it runs perfect. Pulled plugs and they were carbon fouled, put in new set and no change. Motor has 500hrs and has good compression, oil pressure. Recent new stator and rectifier and batteries, and thermostat. The local Yamaha dealer say they cant use the YDS on it because this is a AUS motor. + Any input will be appreciated",We will figure it out once we meet up and we then can post what we find,We will figure it out once we meet up and we then can post what we find,It has 6 studs with bolts.Mdl.# 6014644 +"I have a Yamaha 115 4-stroke that recently started having a idle issue. When I am at the dock in neutral or slowly putting it on the trailer it will drop rpms and die around 500-600 rpms usually happens after it warms up. When I restart it idles high around 1300 rpm then slowly drops rpm and dies. On the water at speed it runs perfect. Pulled plugs and they were carbon fouled, put in new set and no change. Motor has 500hrs and has good compression, oil pressure. Recent new stator and rectifier and batteries, and thermostat. The local Yamaha dealer say they cant use the YDS on it because this is a AUS motor. + Any input will be appreciated",I have the same problem with a 2003 Yamaha F115 with only 320 hours...... Any ideas?????,I have the same problem with a 2003 Yamaha F115 with only 320 hours...... Any ideas?????,You can always put the deck over it and fill it with pouring foam? +"Hello my fellow boaters! + +I have a Yamaha 40 HP, 3 cyl, 2 stroke 84-86 mod which had HAND start before, but I got a parts-engine for free so I built it to a outboard with electrical start. + +The starter has worked fine for a long time, but one day it suddenly wouldn't start by using key. + + +The thing is. it had a faulty neutral switch inside the remote control unit, so I removed that and then I saw some of the wiring was ripped of. I tried putting it back together. This was when the boat was out of the water, and I tried the starter, and IT WORKED! The starter kicked in. + + +So I thought, hell, everything is fine now. So I got the boat back in the water so I could use it for the summer. BUT now I will NOT start. It turns over, it gets fuel, but it seems ignition WILL NOT fire. + I think it's something with the connections so the MODULE stops it from firing. Some kind of immobilizer. + + +I can use the boat though, if I put a wire on the starter solenoid and just put it at the plus terminal at the battery. But it's a hassle doing that everytime. I don't get WHY the module stops me when i'm using the key, but not if I bypass it. Does it maybe ground the module so it gets confused or something? + + +I have more than average knowledge of engines and electricity, but do anyone have any tips? Wiring diagrams? I can't seem to wrap my head around this at the moment.",Is there a kill switch on the remote control box ?,Is there a kill switch on the remote control box ?,"I will assume you are talking about a fiberglass hull. + +The small holes and missing gel coat can/will let water/moisture into the fiberglass layers. + +Contrary to what the boat companies would have you believe, fiberglass will (rot) just like wood if it gets and stays wet. The layers of fiberglass can delaminate. Also, many fiberglass boats are not 100% fiberglass. The (inner core) is often plywood or balsa wood (recent construction has replaced this with other materials which is reflected in the higher cost), so if there is some wood core it can rot inside the fiberglass - not a good thing. + +Patching holes and repairing the gel coat is not rocket science but it is a messy, time consuming job. There are a number of products on the market that you can use for the repairs. + +To see if you are up to the job yourself I would suggest you get ahold of the small booklet produced by WEST System called ""fiberglass boat repair and maintenance"". It's about 90 pages and sells for somewhat less than 5 bucks (available at West Marine or other vendors that carry West System products). + +It has a chapters on repairing ""damaged skins"" and ""core related damage"". + +Gel Coat is not like regular paint and is integral in protecting the fiberglass, so in this particular case I think I would tend to 1) address the holes with either epoxy (West system product or one of the various others - EAST, MAS, System 3 etc) or a polyester resin product (similar to automotive products like Bondo) and then 2) sand and repaint the entire bottom and other areas of gel coat damage with a non-anti-fouling paint (such as VC performance epoxy by Interlux). + +To have a yard or boat shop undertake what needs to be done I would expect your quotes to start in the 2K range (without seeing all that needs to be done) and if there is any rot in the hull, the price could skyrocket from there." +"Hellow + +Yeaterday i open the prop for cleaning fishing lines & re-greasing the prop shaft then i try it in the sea everything was good and working geat after 1 hour the prop not respond with the leaver when i push it forwoard or rverse when i back i open it again but the prop shaft is stuck its not turn can you help me what is the proplem? +And what can i do? Didnt find any video on youtube about this problem","Sounds like your shift cable is broken and motor is is gear. + +This happened to me this year after using the motor all day. I could move the shiftier under the hood be make it back to the ramp.","Sounds like your shift cable is broken and motor is is gear. + +This happened to me this year after using the motor all day. I could move the shiftier under the hood be make it back to the ramp.","I have found that if you launch in the shallower ramps and if you are used to rollers there better, if you go on steep ramps the bunks are better. just my opinion." +"Hellow + +Yeaterday i open the prop for cleaning fishing lines & re-greasing the prop shaft then i try it in the sea everything was good and working geat after 1 hour the prop not respond with the leaver when i push it forwoard or rverse when i back i open it again but the prop shaft is stuck its not turn can you help me what is the proplem? +And what can i do? Didnt find any video on youtube about this problem","Slipcork said: + + + + Sounds like your shift cable is broken and motor is is gear. + +This happened to me this year after using the motor all day. I could move the shiftier under the hood be make it back to the ramp. + +Click to expand... + + +thank you for replay slipcork the shift rod was stuck i turn it to nutral and the propeller turnd normally ! but why its stuck at first?? + +is that becouse the rod is dameged?","Slipcork said: + + + + Sounds like your shift cable is broken and motor is is gear. + +This happened to me this year after using the motor all day. I could move the shiftier under the hood be make it back to the ramp. + +Click to expand... + + +thank you for replay slipcork the shift rod was stuck i turn it to nutral and the propeller turnd normally ! but why its stuck at first?? + +is that becouse the rod is dameged?","2X what bondo said.... + +even expensve boats are lackin in any kind of manual (except for the propulsion.....) + +Go visit a west marine or look online and you'll see there's only a few popular pumps still made. + +Like papy said, there should be one in the back and maybe one in the middle....look for the thru hulls exiting above the water line - then follow the hoses connected to them down to the pump(s). once found, you can determine if they have builtin or separate float switches.... + +What's there may be just fine - you may have to move a switch or change a fuse..." +"I recently bought an old boat with an old 40 hp 3 cylinder Yamaha Autolube 2-stroke engine. From the stickers on the cowling I assume the engine is from around 1990-1991 . + +When doing the spring maintenance I realize that I can't quite figure the engine's cooling system out. I find this orange hose that I thought was the tell tale. But I'm no longer sure because a) no water comes out (when running the engine in a water barrel), b) peculiar ""non-stock"" looks an placing and c) it has some kind of plastic plug in the outlet end (where it is attached to the hole in the cowling). I attach 2 photos, #1 showing the orange hose and #2 showing the cowling (the hose outlet is by the screw, just above the 40 sticker). + +1) What cooling system did this engine have as stock - a tell tale or just water outlet through the exhaust outlet? + +2) What is the orange hose on my engine? A tell tale, and if a stock one or a retro-fitte one? Why is i plugged? + +3) Do I seem to have a impelle problem?","Hi I have a 1998 50hp model and a similar problem. My engine has a tell tale at rear of engine on right hand side. No idea what the orange tube is but fairly certain it's not standard. +I changed my impeller as part of the service but still don't have a water coming out the top from the tell tale. I've pumped water through the tube from bottom to top and top to bottom so there's no obvious blockage. Old impeller wasn't that bad but changed it for new one anyway but made no difference. All worked when I flushed the engine for winter storage. +Any clues as to what might be wrong to help both us both please + +Sorry - didn't mean to hijack our thread but we seem to have the same problem!","Hi I have a 1998 50hp model and a similar problem. My engine has a tell tale at rear of engine on right hand side. No idea what the orange tube is but fairly certain it's not standard. +I changed my impeller as part of the service but still don't have a water coming out the top from the tell tale. I've pumped water through the tube from bottom to top and top to bottom so there's no obvious blockage. Old impeller wasn't that bad but changed it for new one anyway but made no difference. All worked when I flushed the engine for winter storage. +Any clues as to what might be wrong to help both us both please + +Sorry - didn't mean to hijack our thread but we seem to have the same problem!","Melvin Hall said: + + + + Thanks. + +I was using a multimeter to test the resistance, what is a VOM? A multimeter. + +The two green wires on the rectifier come from under the flywheel, is that the coil from the alternator, lighting coil you mentioned? Yes + +Can these two green wires be disconnected from the rectifier and tested when the engine is running? Yes + +Click to expand... + + + +See comments above." +"I recently bought an old boat with an old 40 hp 3 cylinder Yamaha Autolube 2-stroke engine. From the stickers on the cowling I assume the engine is from around 1990-1991 . + +When doing the spring maintenance I realize that I can't quite figure the engine's cooling system out. I find this orange hose that I thought was the tell tale. But I'm no longer sure because a) no water comes out (when running the engine in a water barrel), b) peculiar ""non-stock"" looks an placing and c) it has some kind of plastic plug in the outlet end (where it is attached to the hole in the cowling). I attach 2 photos, #1 showing the orange hose and #2 showing the cowling (the hose outlet is by the screw, just above the 40 sticker). + +1) What cooling system did this engine have as stock - a tell tale or just water outlet through the exhaust outlet? + +2) What is the orange hose on my engine? A tell tale, and if a stock one or a retro-fitte one? Why is i plugged? + +3) Do I seem to have a impelle problem?","Always put a water pump in your motor if any question. they are the life of the motor, and way to cheap not to do it. As far as the orange tubing is, I'm not sure. Must just have a black tube going to the right side of the motor. But it can be unhooked at the power head if in question. Plus your motor should have a thermostat in it. Might be bad and keeping water from passing. Can take it out and run motor to see it water passes.","Always put a water pump in your motor if any question. they are the life of the motor, and way to cheap not to do it. As far as the orange tubing is, I'm not sure. Must just have a black tube going to the right side of the motor. But it can be unhooked at the power head if in question. Plus your motor should have a thermostat in it. Might be bad and keeping water from passing. Can take it out and run motor to see it water passes.","What Chris said. Never run an engine (especially that size) on muffs for more than 2-3 minutes and if you've loaded the boat on a trailer and towed it home, you can run it for 2-3 minutes on muffs but the engine has cooled to the point the thermostat has closed and it won't open again for a full flush on muffs. If you are able to put the engine on muffs within a few minutes of putting it on a trailer or hoisting it on a davit when the engine is still HOT, then it's worth it and actually better than any flush port it may have to hook a hose up to." +"I recently bought an old boat with an old 40 hp 3 cylinder Yamaha Autolube 2-stroke engine. From the stickers on the cowling I assume the engine is from around 1990-1991 . + +When doing the spring maintenance I realize that I can't quite figure the engine's cooling system out. I find this orange hose that I thought was the tell tale. But I'm no longer sure because a) no water comes out (when running the engine in a water barrel), b) peculiar ""non-stock"" looks an placing and c) it has some kind of plastic plug in the outlet end (where it is attached to the hole in the cowling). I attach 2 photos, #1 showing the orange hose and #2 showing the cowling (the hose outlet is by the screw, just above the 40 sticker). + +1) What cooling system did this engine have as stock - a tell tale or just water outlet through the exhaust outlet? + +2) What is the orange hose on my engine? A tell tale, and if a stock one or a retro-fitte one? Why is i plugged? + +3) Do I seem to have a impelle problem?","Slipcork said: + + + + Always put a water pump in your motor if any question. they are the life of the motor, and way to cheap not to do it. As far as the orange tubing is, I'm not sure. Must just have a black tube going to the right side of the motor. But it can be unhooked at the power head if in question. Plus your motor should have a thermostat in it. Might be bad and keeping water from passing. Can take it out and run motor to see it water passes. + +Click to expand... + +Hi and thanks for the reply + +Managed to clear the waterways - bit of fiddling with a piece of wire and then used a bicycle pump with football adaptor loaded with distilled white wine vinegar into the passageway behind the thermostat - or at least where the thermostat should be. Once fluid appeared at the bottom, I refitted the impeller, fired up and ran the engine in a solution of 50 50 white wine vinegar and water until the tell tale pissed like a good un. Then flushed with clean water. Just waiting for the thermostat and I'm on the water. + +I hope OP had a similar result","Slipcork said: + + + + Always put a water pump in your motor if any question. they are the life of the motor, and way to cheap not to do it. As far as the orange tubing is, I'm not sure. Must just have a black tube going to the right side of the motor. But it can be unhooked at the power head if in question. Plus your motor should have a thermostat in it. Might be bad and keeping water from passing. Can take it out and run motor to see it water passes. + +Click to expand... + +Hi and thanks for the reply + +Managed to clear the waterways - bit of fiddling with a piece of wire and then used a bicycle pump with football adaptor loaded with distilled white wine vinegar into the passageway behind the thermostat - or at least where the thermostat should be. Once fluid appeared at the bottom, I refitted the impeller, fired up and ran the engine in a solution of 50 50 white wine vinegar and water until the tell tale pissed like a good un. Then flushed with clean water. Just waiting for the thermostat and I'm on the water. + +I hope OP had a similar result","mnakkach said: + + + + also propellers were bent. + +Click to expand... + + +How bad? You should consider getting them re-conditioned. Your RPM at WOT should be a lot higher than what you were seeing." +"Hi, I have the engine family # 1YMXM1.731CA and I am trying to confirm model year & model. I do believe it is 2000/2001 Enduro 115hp. I am helping a customer try yo locate a replacement carb. See the attached photo for the carb ID info. Can you tell me or do you have any info that will help me. TY + +Jay B / MarineEngine.com",I would run the S/N of the motor and then go to a parts guide and find the part number to find the right carb. Cant go by the numbers on the carb itself.,I would run the S/N of the motor and then go to a parts guide and find the part number to find the right carb. Cant go by the numbers on the carb itself.,"boscoe said: + + + + You would be better served to tell him to take the motor elsewhere. + +Or maybe tell him that the cost to disable the system will be a minimum of $500.00. + +Click to expand... + + +Exactly. + +Disconnecting the oiling system on a Yamaha is like amputating a perfectly good limb." +Went to pull the boat out of the slip at our local marina and after getting the engine started it keep shutting off several times I found out that if I kept pumping the prime blub after the engine started I could keep the motor running would this be a fuel pump problem thanks for any suggestions,Or an air leak in hoses or pick-up tube inside your tank.,Or an air leak in hoses or pick-up tube inside your tank.,Many boats have suffered from cheap / poor quality foam.-----Remove all the waterlogged foam.----Then it will float properly again. +Went to pull the boat out of the slip at our local marina and after getting the engine started it keep shutting off several times I found out that if I kept pumping the prime blub after the engine started I could keep the motor running would this be a fuel pump problem thanks for any suggestions,Pump would be a good place to start.,Pump would be a good place to start.,one is adequate....only time I've ever seen two on one engine was a fanatic that had them in parallel.... +Went to pull the boat out of the slip at our local marina and after getting the engine started it keep shutting off several times I found out that if I kept pumping the prime blub after the engine started I could keep the motor running would this be a fuel pump problem thanks for any suggestions,Thanks I checked the lines and get not see anything that would give me a thought of a leak so pump here i come not sure how hard it is to chance but I will find out thanks everyone,Thanks I checked the lines and get not see anything that would give me a thought of a leak so pump here i come not sure how hard it is to chance but I will find out thanks everyone,"Yeah I plan on pumping it out from here on out. I have changed oil on a bunch of stuff with aluminum pans but it sounds like these ones are really soft. I was just wanting to see if anyone else has used this spec before and ensure I didn’t already destroy the threads. I would imagine if they were gone my wrench wouldn’t have clicked. If this washer is indeed a crush washer like it looks like then I doubt any damage was done. + +Is the mity vac the way to go for an extractor or will the cheaper electric pumps off amazon hold up for a while?" +Went to pull the boat out of the slip at our local marina and after getting the engine started it keep shutting off several times I found out that if I kept pumping the prime blub after the engine started I could keep the motor running would this be a fuel pump problem thanks for any suggestions,Dam just read my reply to many error I am 78 so I might need to slow down Thanks,Dam just read my reply to many error I am 78 so I might need to slow down Thanks,"If it is an ""economical"" radio, probably not much you can do but replace it. Ignition noise is ""AM-like"" in its nature and a FM radio should be pretty immune to it." +Went to pull the boat out of the slip at our local marina and after getting the engine started it keep shutting off several times I found out that if I kept pumping the prime blub after the engine started I could keep the motor running would this be a fuel pump problem thanks for any suggestions,You didn't mention what type of engine do you have . Do you have carburetors. If so they could be gummed up .,You didn't mention what type of engine do you have . Do you have carburetors. If so they could be gummed up .,Fuel pumps been checked? Poor fuel delivery to the carbs (assume it is carb'd?) could catch up at idle then drain the bowls again as you plane off. +Went to pull the boat out of the slip at our local marina and after getting the engine started it keep shutting off several times I found out that if I kept pumping the prime blub after the engine started I could keep the motor running would this be a fuel pump problem thanks for any suggestions,"Just was thinking, if this was the first time to crank to boat up this season, you may need to rebuild the carbs. If gas was left in the engine all winter, you will need to have the carbs cleaned.","Just was thinking, if this was the first time to crank to boat up this season, you may need to rebuild the carbs. If gas was left in the engine all winter, you will need to have the carbs cleaned.","Thanks Chris. +I've asked a BUNCH of people at a BUNCH of sites and your the only one who answered. +Thanks. + +(Clean the O2. @ $472.00 you clean it.) + +Yea my neighbor sure can't afford that!! + +Another question: I'm thinking of buying a boat with a gill bracket. +It has no motor now. +How do I measure for the outboard? +The guy selling has no idea what motor was on it?? + +One person said: Extend a 2X4 on the bottom and then measure up where the top of the bracket is. +Kinda like a huge L" +I recently bought a pair of Yamaha FT50 outboards but the provided battery cables are only 7' long. I need 13' lengths and am considering replacing the entire cable rather than splicing. Any recommendations for the gauge to use?,"I probably would not use anything less than 4 gauge. The longer the run, the more gauge you would need. I recently replaced the negative lead from the battery with a length of car booster cable- 4 gauge.","I probably would not use anything less than 4 gauge. The longer the run, the more gauge you would need. I recently replaced the negative lead from the battery with a length of car booster cable- 4 gauge.","1st, I would tighten / replace the alternator belt. If it's ""screaching"" in the slightest, it's slipping and too loose and you won't get the full 13.8 to 14.5 VDC charge at full output of alternator. + +Once that is corrected, then start your troubleshooting." +I recently bought a pair of Yamaha FT50 outboards but the provided battery cables are only 7' long. I need 13' lengths and am considering replacing the entire cable rather than splicing. Any recommendations for the gauge to use?,Thanks - I'm pretty sure I'll go with 4 gauge.,Thanks - I'm pretty sure I'll go with 4 gauge.,"The wood shouldn't be considered part of the hull structure. Rather, it is a form over which sufficient glass and resin is laid in order to make a strong platform. Clearly the original bad hull design and poor factory layup allowed water to get into the weak structure and the weight of the engine hastened the crush. +You probably want at least 1/4 to 3/8 thick layup over everything in that area. Be certain that the bed is well tabbed to the hull at least 8 inches out all the way around. You can actually use styrofoam or the blue insulation foam that Home Depot carries as core material. It's a lot easier to form than wood. Manufacturers use wood because it's cheap, you can find people who know how to cut and form it pretty easy, and it's forgiving enough that bad layup and tabbing won't be a huge disater...at least for many years...long enough that the warranty will be over. Modern boat construction uses very little in the way of core, using preformed ""egg crate"" inner structures or other similar preforms. +To my eye it looks like your layup is very resin rich. You really want the very least amount of resin that will thoroughly wet out the fabric. You are using a resin roller?" +I have a pontoon boat with a yamaha 40HP 4 stroke which stalled out my last time in the water last year. just had it looked at. at least one of the carburetors is leaking gas. quoted at $650 for the bottom carburetor and estimated at $350 for labor...is there anything I can do other than replacing the carburetor?,Remove the carb and check it carefully for loose fuel line connections- the needle valve also might not be seating properly and is causing flooding.,Remove the carb and check it carefully for loose fuel line connections- the needle valve also might not be seating properly and is causing flooding.,"You needn't worry if the batteries are all wet cell. Mixing wet cell and gel cell or gel cell and AGM is not recommended. So if they are all AGM or all gel or all wet cell, you're good. +Deep cycle vs start battery no big deal." +I have a pontoon boat with a yamaha 40HP 4 stroke which stalled out my last time in the water last year. just had it looked at. at least one of the carburetors is leaking gas. quoted at $650 for the bottom carburetor and estimated at $350 for labor...is there anything I can do other than replacing the carburetor?,Do you leave gasoline in the carburetors when engine sits for prolonged periods of time ?-------Sounds like a float valve is stuck.-------Possibly look into cleaning it yourself.-------When shops get into this type of repair it gets spendy in a hurry.,Do you leave gasoline in the carburetors when engine sits for prolonged periods of time ?-------Sounds like a float valve is stuck.-------Possibly look into cleaning it yourself.-------When shops get into this type of repair it gets spendy in a hurry.,Just install it.----Hang a wee curtain in front of it should the dreaded vapour lock occur. +"I purchased a couple of Yamaha 50HP outboards (FT50CET) but due to unforeseen circumstances have been unable to use them until now. They have been in their crates for almost 3 years. I have now un-crated and unwrapped them and, as I would expect, they still look brand new. But I am wondering if there any special precautions or preparatory steps I should take before starting them up for the first time.",This may seem obvious but make sure you put oil and gear lube before running up.,This may seem obvious but make sure you put oil and gear lube before running up.,"boscoe said: + + + + What is the complete model of the motor? + +Click to expand... + +I’m not sure the exact model, the markings are wore off on the bracket. Just the manufacture date, all I know is it’s a 2001 250 saltwater series 76 degree" +"I purchased a couple of Yamaha 50HP outboards (FT50CET) but due to unforeseen circumstances have been unable to use them until now. They have been in their crates for almost 3 years. I have now un-crated and unwrapped them and, as I would expect, they still look brand new. But I am wondering if there any special precautions or preparatory steps I should take before starting them up for the first time.","Well; definitely. I was just wondering if there might be other precautions like strip/clean the carb's, hand crank without plugs or something after them being on their sides in the crates for so long.","Well; definitely. I was just wondering if there might be other precautions like strip/clean the carb's, hand crank without plugs or something after them being on their sides in the crates for so long.","Hey Chris Found out the polarity on my batteries cable wasn't correct. My tilt-trim switches aren't working now. Started motor up, ran good, try to used tilt-trim switches, but they blew the same fuse. Started checking if the relays were going to ground, they check out to be o.k.. Started backtracking on my blue-green wires. The green wire were going to ground. On the wiring harness inside the engine, is a small black box, it has one black wire, one blue wire, one gren wire. The green wire is the one going to ground. I' ve called two different supply stores, they were not familiar with this black box. The box is about one and a quarter inch long,by maybe half an inch wide. It was taped to the wiring harness, maybe two inches away from the tilt-trim onengine" +"I purchased a couple of Yamaha 50HP outboards (FT50CET) but due to unforeseen circumstances have been unable to use them until now. They have been in their crates for almost 3 years. I have now un-crated and unwrapped them and, as I would expect, they still look brand new. But I am wondering if there any special precautions or preparatory steps I should take before starting them up for the first time.","If they are brand new, there is no need as there won't be any fuel in the system to gum up the carbs. +just add oil and fire them up !","If they are brand new, there is no need as there won't be any fuel in the system to gum up the carbs. +just add oil and fire them up !","Replace the filter, don't clean it. Also check for restrictions in the fuel lines between the filter, pump and carbs. + +After you notice the problem, is the primer bulb still hard? If not, make sure your fuel tank is venting properly." +"I purchased a couple of Yamaha 50HP outboards (FT50CET) but due to unforeseen circumstances have been unable to use them until now. They have been in their crates for almost 3 years. I have now un-crated and unwrapped them and, as I would expect, they still look brand new. But I am wondering if there any special precautions or preparatory steps I should take before starting them up for the first time.","Thanks - I was thinking of gummed up carb's but, as you say, the motors haven't seen fuel yet.","Thanks - I was thinking of gummed up carb's but, as you say, the motors haven't seen fuel yet.","ideally your fuel filter should sit between the bulb and the motor. The tanks need to have an independent breather, it sounds like it doesn't?" +"I purchased a couple of Yamaha 50HP outboards (FT50CET) but due to unforeseen circumstances have been unable to use them until now. They have been in their crates for almost 3 years. I have now un-crated and unwrapped them and, as I would expect, they still look brand new. But I am wondering if there any special precautions or preparatory steps I should take before starting them up for the first time.","Mount them, Check the fluids, fuel them and run them No worries. The only thing you should do is change the water pump impellers. They are probably set.","Mount them, Check the fluids, fuel them and run them No worries. The only thing you should do is change the water pump impellers. They are probably set.","Treetime said: + + + + Background: Boat purchased, previous owner ran nothing but non ethanol gas, I have done the same. Boat ran fine on test drive. Boat ran fine for 2 weeks after purchase. Yesterday I was cruising 12-15 mph, and appeared to run out of gas. Changed tanks like normal primed it yadda yadda... boat would crank run a few minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die. Prime it again choke it crank it run good for 5 minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die again. Basically I limped it back to the dock like this. The boat has never been run over about 15 mph. Now trying to repair it the float ball (primer bulb, whatever you call it) you can prime it but never seems to tighten up. I replaced this thinking bad ball, same results. + +checked the fuel filter and cleaned it, not bad but did it anyway. Still having the same issue. So before I randomly start replacing parts such as fuel pump, etc would anybody have a suggestion? + +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Repair made. Apparently the fuel line had a leak somewhere. I replaced the lines and everything works great." +"I purchased a couple of Yamaha 50HP outboards (FT50CET) but due to unforeseen circumstances have been unable to use them until now. They have been in their crates for almost 3 years. I have now un-crated and unwrapped them and, as I would expect, they still look brand new. But I am wondering if there any special precautions or preparatory steps I should take before starting them up for the first time.","Thanks for the warning. Would that be likely, even though they have never seen water?","Thanks for the warning. Would that be likely, even though they have never seen water?",Ok so last night i troubleshot the the solenoid with the battery disconnected i got an open between the 2 large terminals however with it connected i got continuity so i know thats good. that switch with the broken wires i found is the nuetral start switch...where the hell would those wires go to? and that yellow with red wire goes everywhere on the right side of the motor including to that nuetral switch.. Thanks for all the help so far! +"I purchased a couple of Yamaha 50HP outboards (FT50CET) but due to unforeseen circumstances have been unable to use them until now. They have been in their crates for almost 3 years. I have now un-crated and unwrapped them and, as I would expect, they still look brand new. But I am wondering if there any special precautions or preparatory steps I should take before starting them up for the first time.","Leodan said: + + + + Thanks for the warning. Would that be likely, even though they have never seen water? + +Click to expand... + + + +It has nothing to do with use, just the time the impeller is compressed into the housing.","Leodan said: + + + + Thanks for the warning. Would that be likely, even though they have never seen water? + +Click to expand... + + + +It has nothing to do with use, just the time the impeller is compressed into the housing.","Spent about 4 hours on the boat today.When I first got there, naturally I tried starting it, and of course, this trailer queen fired right up. Like instantly. *&^%$#@! + +Pulled the battery cables off completely. They're the original (appear to be original) and ridiculously long, #2 from what I can tell. I purchased 8ft of #4 Red and Black (pos and Neg, I know) prior to going to the boat or knowing for sure what size cable was on there, at West Marine (only thing open today and on the way). ICables I bought are a good 4 feet shorter than the cables I took off. I'm thinking I'm OK with what I bought, reduced length and one diameter smaller. + +I didn't get it done as I need a smaller lug for the starter Solenoid (1/4"") everything else was 5/16"" Although I hit the ends with battery corrosion inhibitor before I crimped them, and wrapped them with elec tape, I still want to get shrink wrap and protective boots for them as well. + +At the original Perko 4 way, Both positive cables going to each of the batteries were toast...severely corroded. Interesting thing I found there though...the Positive cables were #2 and the negative cable connecting the two batteries together was only #4. Not sure if that's a big problem or not. Not the way I would have done it though. If anything, I would go one larger, not smaller. + +I did find one 16AWG wire right behind the batteries in the huge bundle, that had a small hole through the shielding and corrosion had all but completely eaten through the wire there. I cut the bad area out and spliced that back to together. Best I can tell, it was the the feed for the Float switch at the bilge. Previous owner did tell me that he added a fwd bilge pump, so I'm guessing that I found where he pierced the shielding to find the hot lead to the bilge. + +I cut every zip tie,l undid every clamp, removed the flex plastic rigging tube, etc...everything I could do to break the wires as loose as possible from the motor along the transom to the battery hold. + +I also removed the enclosure hiding all the wiring from under the dash. The wiring itself looked clean, but geezus was there alot of sawdust and other crud built up laying in the bottom of that enclosure. It was all dry, very dry. No corrosion to speak of. And not the rats nest of wiring that I was expecting either. It was nice and tidy, and ""clean"". + +From the motor, I cleaned every strand of wire, fuel line, control cable, etc. Every one. The rigging tube was packed solid with greasy dirt, sand etc. It came off and out in chunks. The back of the boat was a mess. Nothing was chaffed though. I didn't find any other breaks in the wiring jackets, no corrosion, nothing. + +The battery cable terminal ends at the motor side looked brand new. The battery side didn't look new, but they definitely didn't look bad. + +Once again, I'm baffled. Kinda hard to trouble shoot, when it seems to run just fine, again." +"I purchased a couple of Yamaha 50HP outboards (FT50CET) but due to unforeseen circumstances have been unable to use them until now. They have been in their crates for almost 3 years. I have now un-crated and unwrapped them and, as I would expect, they still look brand new. But I am wondering if there any special precautions or preparatory steps I should take before starting them up for the first time.","OK - I follow, thanks.","OK - I follow, thanks.",never ever have your humming bird on while you start the engine. start the engine........then power up the hummingbird. (same advice that is in the owners manual) +I have a 2000 C115TLRY- am getting it ready for the season and trying to start it on the garden hose. I'm finding that the starter motor barely spins the motor over- certainly too slow for it to fire. The battery I'm using is fully charged and reads 12.7 volts on the voltmeter. I get the same voltage reading from the + lead on the starter relay from the battery. I'm able to turn the motor flywheel around by hand and nothing seems to be binding. All connections seem tight with no corrosion. I did not use the motor at all last year- it was in storage. I have not had the starter apart so do not know the condition of the brushes or other internal components. Any thought on how to proceed from here? Thanks in advance.,"I am happy to advise that I have found the problem. After searching the forums for suggestions, I ran booster cables from the battery directly to the starter- the starter spun over very quickly. After doing that, I re-connected the + cable from the battery to the starter but instead of re-connecting the - lead I used the - lead from the booster cable. The starter spun quickly. That told me that the problem was the - lead to the battery. On closer inspection of the rubber shield, I found a hole in the shield that had allowed water to enter the copper core. Hope this post helps others with a similar problem.","I am happy to advise that I have found the problem. After searching the forums for suggestions, I ran booster cables from the battery directly to the starter- the starter spun over very quickly. After doing that, I re-connected the + cable from the battery to the starter but instead of re-connecting the - lead I used the - lead from the booster cable. The starter spun quickly. That told me that the problem was the - lead to the battery. On closer inspection of the rubber shield, I found a hole in the shield that had allowed water to enter the copper core. Hope this post helps others with a similar problem.",Since you get twice as many power strokes it stands to reason it takes less engine to push the same water with a 2 stroke. +"My boat went in last year for maintenance due to carbon build up. The shop had it for one month and finally got it back to me . They basically replaced my entire fuel system on my VMAX 200EDFI. I took it out briefly after I got it back and it starts and runs fine.....I spent a small fortune to fix it . My problem is now I'm not getting my top speed that I was before it was fixed. Shop said everything checked out and boat was fine. I am not happy and am not going back to those clowns. + Any ideas as to how I would lose top end speed? I was able to go 50 52mph, now only like 45?",What rpm's are you getting at WOT now?,What rpm's are you getting at WOT now?,Where in this world are you located? What is the complete engine ID? +"My boat went in last year for maintenance due to carbon build up. The shop had it for one month and finally got it back to me . They basically replaced my entire fuel system on my VMAX 200EDFI. I took it out briefly after I got it back and it starts and runs fine.....I spent a small fortune to fix it . My problem is now I'm not getting my top speed that I was before it was fixed. Shop said everything checked out and boat was fine. I am not happy and am not going back to those clowns. + Any ideas as to how I would lose top end speed? I was able to go 50 52mph, now only like 45?","Do you really have an issue here? If the motor ""starts and runs fine"", can you not live with the loss of 5 mph? If not, take it back to the shop and demand that they fix it considering how much you spent there. I agree with aliboy- do you get the same RPMs now?","Do you really have an issue here? If the motor ""starts and runs fine"", can you not live with the loss of 5 mph? If not, take it back to the shop and demand that they fix it considering how much you spent there. I agree with aliboy- do you get the same RPMs now?","You can't, the lock is controlled by the hydraulics on the tilt/trim. When you are quickly backing up the power of the motor is overriding the power of the tilt/trim. If it is riding completely out of the water you have a trim/tilt issue. The hydraulics aren't strong enough." +Just traded for this - ran fine for 5 minutes then died and won't run. I have spark and fuel. Does try to backfire when cranking - checked timing belt - looks good. Any suggestions?,Appears to be flooding - just a guess,Appears to be flooding - just a guess,"Ayuh,..... Tooth count don't matter,...... + +Chevy starters only come in 2 flavors, the straight across bolt pattern for the 12"" flywheel, 'n the staggered bolt pattern for the 14"" flywheel,....." +Just traded for this - ran fine for 5 minutes then died and won't run. I have spark and fuel. Does try to backfire when cranking - checked timing belt - looks good. Any suggestions?,Turns out it was a sheared flywheel key. Runs good now!,Turns out it was a sheared flywheel key. Runs good now!,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + The purpose of the primer bulb for your carb'd engine is to provide fuel for starting. When the bulb gets firm it means the carb bowls are full. You start the engine, provide a little choke, all good. Once the engine is running the fuel pump takes the place of you squeezing the primer bulb, pulling fuel from the tank. Therefore when the engine is running the primer bulb should not be firm, but it also should not be collapsed. Somewhere in between. If you keep your hand on the bulb while running engine, especially at high rpms, you can feel the fuel flowing through the bulb. + +With that said I still think you've got a fuel system issue, just not the primer bulb or fuel pump. When was the last time the carbs were pulled and thoroughly cleaned, including the jets? + +By the way, when you get deployed for months at time you'll want to drain the fuel from the carbs. There is a drain nut on the side of each carb. Open that nut, stick a rag underneath, and drain. You don't want fuel sitting in carbs for long periods of time. Perfect scenario for the carb jets to become clogged. Here is a schematic of your carbs. #15 is the drain screw. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2006 and Later/115TLR/CARBURETOR/parts.html + +Click to expand... + +thanks so much this make a lot more sense, and im hoping thats whats wrong. I dont know when if ever they have been cleaned i purchased the boat used about 2 months ago, he had regular service done on the motor he gave me the paper work, but this doesnt seem like something that would be under regular service, id have to see the paper work again" +"I'm setting the timing mechanically just like the factory service manual describes in the ""Periodic Maintenance"" section and I'll have some questions as I go along. + + +The first question concerns the Adjust length of full advanced stopper (1), the specs call for the length to be 26mm, but the drawing is not clear from where the measurement is taken, it looks like it is from about half way from the screw mount in the drawing, but if I use that point then the magneto control link (3) is not long enough to reach the mark, it can't be adjusted any longer. I therefore, set the full advanced stopper at 26mm measuring from the base of the screw mount to the tip. Is that correct?","Here is the other link that must be adjusted exact per the manual, the throttle cam control link, which must be set at 53mm: + +It looks like from here everything else is set by these two fixed links.","Here is the other link that must be adjusted exact per the manual, the throttle cam control link, which must be set at 53mm: + +It looks like from here everything else is set by these two fixed links.","have you continuously pumped primer bulbs while they are running? There could be one inside of fuel tank,might have to pull sending unit off to get access" +"I'm setting the timing mechanically just like the factory service manual describes in the ""Periodic Maintenance"" section and I'll have some questions as I go along. + + +The first question concerns the Adjust length of full advanced stopper (1), the specs call for the length to be 26mm, but the drawing is not clear from where the measurement is taken, it looks like it is from about half way from the screw mount in the drawing, but if I use that point then the magneto control link (3) is not long enough to reach the mark, it can't be adjusted any longer. I therefore, set the full advanced stopper at 26mm measuring from the base of the screw mount to the tip. Is that correct?","Hello,will these adjustments help my problem,94,2stroke,yam,115,idles to low to shift?","Hello,will these adjustments help my problem,94,2stroke,yam,115,idles to low to shift?","audis said: + + + + No problem. I can help you and reprogram the ECU from YAMAHA F50 to F60, F80 to F100 is a small fee. We also have an option to disable the function of IMMO. + +Click to expand... + + +Im interested please let me know how we can do this? What is the IMMO again?" +"I'm setting the timing mechanically just like the factory service manual describes in the ""Periodic Maintenance"" section and I'll have some questions as I go along. + + +The first question concerns the Adjust length of full advanced stopper (1), the specs call for the length to be 26mm, but the drawing is not clear from where the measurement is taken, it looks like it is from about half way from the screw mount in the drawing, but if I use that point then the magneto control link (3) is not long enough to reach the mark, it can't be adjusted any longer. I therefore, set the full advanced stopper at 26mm measuring from the base of the screw mount to the tip. Is that correct?","[email protected] said: + + + + Hello,will these adjustments help my problem,94,2 stroke,yam,115,idles to low to shift? + +Click to expand... + + +I would just adjust the idle adjustment screw (there is only one screw to adjust) and see if the solves your problem. It takes like 30 seconds to do. Just turn on the engine with the cowl off, and turn the idle screw in till you get 700 -800 RPM (factory specs)at idle. See the factory manual page 3-15. Then try it out and shift to forward and see if it solves your problem. My Yamaha tach says it is idling at around 600-700 and it shift fine. + +What I had to do and the subject of this thread, was caused by my having rebuilt the carbs, and in retrospect, I don't think I needed to do the timing and link adjustment, that it was fine. Water under the bridge, it is fine for sure now, after I did it.","[email protected] said: + + + + Hello,will these adjustments help my problem,94,2 stroke,yam,115,idles to low to shift? + +Click to expand... + + +I would just adjust the idle adjustment screw (there is only one screw to adjust) and see if the solves your problem. It takes like 30 seconds to do. Just turn on the engine with the cowl off, and turn the idle screw in till you get 700 -800 RPM (factory specs)at idle. See the factory manual page 3-15. Then try it out and shift to forward and see if it solves your problem. My Yamaha tach says it is idling at around 600-700 and it shift fine. + +What I had to do and the subject of this thread, was caused by my having rebuilt the carbs, and in retrospect, I don't think I needed to do the timing and link adjustment, that it was fine. Water under the bridge, it is fine for sure now, after I did it.",on most boats the vent is at the bow end of the boat for this very reason. You may want to check the vent to make sure it has not formed rust on the screen and effectively closed it up. The cap likely helped the situation but the tank is set up to use the vent in it. Did you try to run the engine on a portable tanks with fresh gas when this happens and if so does it run or is the problem the same? you also should check the fuel injector pump filters external and internal. This should be done after every issue with possible gas contamination. +"Hi new to this boating world .i have a yamaha 90hp 2stroke oil injected 85model , the piston went in it so took it to boat repairer on 7th november 2015 still waiting now 4 april 2016 keeps telling me its a slow process but i feel im just getting the run around .should replacing a piston take this long and what should i do ?","It seems there aren't a lot who will respond on the Yamaha repair forum (Honda is much more interactive) +If it were me, I would get the motor back and don't pay them a penny ! +Any reputable shop could get this job done in a week. +just my 2 bits","It seems there aren't a lot who will respond on the Yamaha repair forum (Honda is much more interactive) +If it were me, I would get the motor back and don't pay them a penny ! +Any reputable shop could get this job done in a week. +just my 2 bits","They make a spray solvent to loosen up the sealant.... + +On the pedestals, I'd be inclined to just use a piece of 6061 aluminum plate on the floor...bolt the pedestals in and use nylon locknuts and you should be fine...you can bond the plate to the floor with a polyurethane sealant or thru bolt it it...if you put it on top, taper the edges... + +what you have for a floor looks rather thin...." +"Hi new to this boating world .i have a yamaha 90hp 2stroke oil injected 85model , the piston went in it so took it to boat repairer on 7th november 2015 still waiting now 4 april 2016 keeps telling me its a slow process but i feel im just getting the run around .should replacing a piston take this long and what should i do ?",Thanks dark-star your feed back is appreciated. And i was thinking of doing just that .5 months is a long time to wait they have nearly had the boat longer than me. Im a keen fishman and sitting at home waiting isn't catching me any fish.,Thanks dark-star your feed back is appreciated. And i was thinking of doing just that .5 months is a long time to wait they have nearly had the boat longer than me. Im a keen fishman and sitting at home waiting isn't catching me any fish.,This basic piece of information is located in your owners manual. If you don't have one they can be downloaded online for free. +"Hi new to this boating world .i have a yamaha 90hp 2stroke oil injected 85model , the piston went in it so took it to boat repairer on 7th november 2015 still waiting now 4 april 2016 keeps telling me its a slow process but i feel im just getting the run around .should replacing a piston take this long and what should i do ?",I would seek out a mechanic who works out of his house to avoid paying exorbitant shop rates,I would seek out a mechanic who works out of his house to avoid paying exorbitant shop rates,"I have removed the fins and tried without, no difference on speed, still max was 50km/h at 5k rpm max.Not sure if I will put them back or not." +"Hey guys! I've got a Yamaha 175 that has low pressure on one cylinder after the PO ran it after the oil pump died. Now I'm pretty good with tools, but I haven't the faintest idea how to fiddle with outboards. How would I go about fixing this problem? I read ""Pull the heads"" in old posts but I don't know what I'm looking for. Any tips to get started? What all will I need to do to get her wet again? Thanks!",I would say get a factory manual and read the powerhead section 3 times.----------Failure to do so may mean a lot of posts and frustration.---------Sorry.,I would say get a factory manual and read the powerhead section 3 times.----------Failure to do so may mean a lot of posts and frustration.---------Sorry.,You can get combo hour meter/rev counters for less than $20 that are driven from a spark plug lead. +"Hey guys! I've got a Yamaha 175 that has low pressure on one cylinder after the PO ran it after the oil pump died. Now I'm pretty good with tools, but I haven't the faintest idea how to fiddle with outboards. How would I go about fixing this problem? I read ""Pull the heads"" in old posts but I don't know what I'm looking for. Any tips to get started? What all will I need to do to get her wet again? Thanks!","SkeeterDog said: + + + + Hey guys! I've got a Yamaha 175 that has low pressure on one cylinder after the PO ran it after the oil pump died. Now I'm pretty good with tools, but I haven't the faintest idea how to fiddle with outboards. How would I go about fixing this problem? I read ""Pull the heads"" in old posts but I don't know what I'm looking for. Any tips to get started? What all will I need to do to get her wet again? Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +Usually catastrophic events occur when any gasoline engine is run without oil. Oil is the engine's life blood. It will die without it. Likely it is the reason for your low compression reading. Does the motor run at all? There might be other related problems that have yet to announce themselves. + +It is entirely likely that you're looking at a major engine re-build. If you decide to take on this huge task, I would agree with racerone- get a repair manual, study it and follow it.","SkeeterDog said: + + + + Hey guys! I've got a Yamaha 175 that has low pressure on one cylinder after the PO ran it after the oil pump died. Now I'm pretty good with tools, but I haven't the faintest idea how to fiddle with outboards. How would I go about fixing this problem? I read ""Pull the heads"" in old posts but I don't know what I'm looking for. Any tips to get started? What all will I need to do to get her wet again? Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +Usually catastrophic events occur when any gasoline engine is run without oil. Oil is the engine's life blood. It will die without it. Likely it is the reason for your low compression reading. Does the motor run at all? There might be other related problems that have yet to announce themselves. + +It is entirely likely that you're looking at a major engine re-build. If you decide to take on this huge task, I would agree with racerone- get a repair manual, study it and follow it.","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,..... I believe in limber holes,.... + +Every point in the entire hull, should drain to the pumpable bilge by gravity alone,..... +If the water can't drain, it will, eventually, leach into the foam,.... +If the hull can drain, water don't sit, 'n everything don't rot as quickly,.... + +That's why I prefer cut strips of foam board,... It drains all by itself,.... + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you for the response. Strips of foam board makes sense, I will look into purchasing some." +"Hey guys! I've got a Yamaha 175 that has low pressure on one cylinder after the PO ran it after the oil pump died. Now I'm pretty good with tools, but I haven't the faintest idea how to fiddle with outboards. How would I go about fixing this problem? I read ""Pull the heads"" in old posts but I don't know what I'm looking for. Any tips to get started? What all will I need to do to get her wet again? Thanks!","IF and thats a big IF, the oil pump went out completely on the motor I would expect much more damage than just one cyl. They are not known for failures as they are an excellent injection system. And the way they work each cylinder would have had to run without oil. I would look at the carb you are going to want to find the problem before putting money into it.","IF and thats a big IF, the oil pump went out completely on the motor I would expect much more damage than just one cyl. They are not known for failures as they are an excellent injection system. And the way they work each cylinder would have had to run without oil. I would look at the carb you are going to want to find the problem before putting money into it.","Pull the head. Inspect the cylinder walls and pistons. Paying particular attention to cylinders 3 & 4. + +Presumption being you have removed the lower unit to verify the issue is within the power plant." +"Hey guys! I've got a Yamaha 175 that has low pressure on one cylinder after the PO ran it after the oil pump died. Now I'm pretty good with tools, but I haven't the faintest idea how to fiddle with outboards. How would I go about fixing this problem? I read ""Pull the heads"" in old posts but I don't know what I'm looking for. Any tips to get started? What all will I need to do to get her wet again? Thanks!","No model # posted----But , but most Yamaha oil injection motors do not mix the oil with the gasoline.-------------The oil is directly injected by seperate oil lines into the intake manifold.--------------If one hose was cracked / pinched / plugged it would do damage on one cylinder.","No model # posted----But , but most Yamaha oil injection motors do not mix the oil with the gasoline.-------------The oil is directly injected by seperate oil lines into the intake manifold.--------------If one hose was cracked / pinched / plugged it would do damage on one cylinder.",You are in luck. Your CDI unit is bad. If you check the voltage to the TPS with the key turn to ON there is no 5V going to the TPS. This is per the service manual. I have this same issue on my F90TLRB that I just bought from a stupid azz marina. They said it ran fine at their marina so they will not do anything for me. The new CDI costs $400. I am waiting for mine to arrive any day now. +"New to me 2005 F60 yamaha (carburated) is hard to start. +sometimes up to 10 attempts before it finally catches. +Once warmed up it runs like a dream. +Smooth acceleration, perfect idle. +I'm going to put some new plugs in this week and see if it helps +if not, any suggestions ?","Put the new plugs in yesterday, the motor started on the 3rd crank. +better, but not convinced this was the problem. +any ideas ?","Put the new plugs in yesterday, the motor started on the 3rd crank. +better, but not convinced this was the problem. +any ideas ?",Thanks. I'll check them out. +"New to me 2005 F60 yamaha (carburated) is hard to start. +sometimes up to 10 attempts before it finally catches. +Once warmed up it runs like a dream. +Smooth acceleration, perfect idle. +I'm going to put some new plugs in this week and see if it helps +if not, any suggestions ?",Thanks for all the input !,Thanks for all the input !,"johnnygjr said: + + + + After starting on starting battery,you would switch to#1 or #2 not to both, if you had one of each type of battery,starting, & deep cycle. You would start engine on both setting,then switch to the deep cycle battery. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Johnny" +"New to me 2005 F60 yamaha (carburated) is hard to start. +sometimes up to 10 attempts before it finally catches. +Once warmed up it runs like a dream. +Smooth acceleration, perfect idle. +I'm going to put some new plugs in this week and see if it helps +if not, any suggestions ?","dark_star said: + + + + Thanks for all the input ! + +Click to expand... + + +I would say that you've solved your problem. 3 tries is better than 10 tries.","dark_star said: + + + + Thanks for all the input ! + +Click to expand... + + +I would say that you've solved your problem. 3 tries is better than 10 tries.",Did you put it in backwards? +"New to me 2005 F60 yamaha (carburated) is hard to start. +sometimes up to 10 attempts before it finally catches. +Once warmed up it runs like a dream. +Smooth acceleration, perfect idle. +I'm going to put some new plugs in this week and see if it helps +if not, any suggestions ?",still seems inconsistent ....,still seems inconsistent ....,"Here is original thread on THT + + + + https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/1269396-yamaha-150-txrc-carb-charging-issue.html#post16283285" +"Head is removed and there are lots of deposits in water chambers on block. Can't clean with brush, openings too narrow. Want to specifically clean areas due to internal coating failure and paint with zinc chromate paint. +Also noticed a couple areas that have heavy corrosion to cylinder walls. +What can I use to dissolve deposits clean enough to paint? Looking at some type of ""aluma brite products.","pdlj said: + + + +Head is removed and there are lots of deposits in water chambers on block. Can't clean with brush, openings too narrow. Want to specifically clean areas due to internal coating failure and paint with zinc chromate paint. +Also noticed a couple areas that have heavy corrosion to cylinder walls. +What can I use to dissolve deposits clean enough to paint? Looking at some type of ""aluma brite products. + +Click to expand... + + +What prompted you to remove the head? + +Are you saying that the water passages in the block are too restricted to insert a brush? How big is your brush? If the water passages in the block are significantly restricted, (like it sounds that they are) your motor is probably overheating. + +Are you also saying that you are seeing ""corrosion"" on the cylinder walls? + +Is this a salt water motor? If so, the deposits in the block are salt related residues that can build up over time, especially if the motor was not flushed with fresh water regularly and can build up more quickly if the motor is not being properly cooled. If the ""corrosion"" is in fact scoring of the cylinder walls, this can be a result of over heating as well. + +If it were me, I would replace the head, torque the bolts to specs in the proper order and do a compression test. If the results were unacceptable, you may have a game changer.","pdlj said: + + + +Head is removed and there are lots of deposits in water chambers on block. Can't clean with brush, openings too narrow. Want to specifically clean areas due to internal coating failure and paint with zinc chromate paint. +Also noticed a couple areas that have heavy corrosion to cylinder walls. +What can I use to dissolve deposits clean enough to paint? Looking at some type of ""aluma brite products. + +Click to expand... + + +What prompted you to remove the head? + +Are you saying that the water passages in the block are too restricted to insert a brush? How big is your brush? If the water passages in the block are significantly restricted, (like it sounds that they are) your motor is probably overheating. + +Are you also saying that you are seeing ""corrosion"" on the cylinder walls? + +Is this a salt water motor? If so, the deposits in the block are salt related residues that can build up over time, especially if the motor was not flushed with fresh water regularly and can build up more quickly if the motor is not being properly cooled. If the ""corrosion"" is in fact scoring of the cylinder walls, this can be a result of over heating as well. + +If it were me, I would replace the head, torque the bolts to specs in the proper order and do a compression test. If the results were unacceptable, you may have a game changer.","I don't think so; short of cutting the transom (not gonna happen, haha!) I don't think I have any way of dropping it down lower. I'll check when I get home from work and see if it has an adjustable mounting plate. + +Here's a better angle but a blurrier photo: this one was taken dead level with the anti cavitation plate but wasn't as clear (crappy cell phone camera) so I didn't post it first." +"Head is removed and there are lots of deposits in water chambers on block. Can't clean with brush, openings too narrow. Want to specifically clean areas due to internal coating failure and paint with zinc chromate paint. +Also noticed a couple areas that have heavy corrosion to cylinder walls. +What can I use to dissolve deposits clean enough to paint? Looking at some type of ""aluma brite products.","Re: Yama F100 TLRY 4 CYL/CARB Clean water chambers on block + + + +labtek said: + + + + What prompted you to remove the head? + +Are you saying that the water passages in the block are too restricted to insert a brush? How big is your brush? If the water passages in the block are significantly restricted, (like it sounds that they are) your motor is probably overheating. + +Are you also saying that you are seeing ""corrosion"" on the cylinder walls? + +Is this a salt water motor? If so, the deposits in the block are salt related residues that can build up over time, especially if the motor was not flushed with fresh water regularly and can build up more quickly if the motor is not being properly cooled. If the ""corrosion"" is in fact scoring of the cylinder walls, this can be a result of over heating as well. + +If it were me, I would replace the head, torque the bolts to specs in the proper order and do a compression test. If the results were unacceptable, you may have a game changer. + +Click to expand... + + +THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR REPLY !!! + +HISTORY FOR REMOVING HEAD: +Yamaha - Hoping I can get some info on where and how water gets into engine oil. My motor only has 175 hours and looks like brand new externally. I purchased from my uncle 1 year ago and I only used motor 5 times. Had water pump rebuilt and carbs cleaned before using. Drained engine oil and it was fine. +Checked oil prior to starting a couple days ago and the oil was cream colored, shocking and disappointing. I drained and all of it was cream color and some of it was thick. When I pulled plug a little clear water, approx. a teaspoon, came out then muck oil. + +Removed thermostat - crusty and stuck open. Purchased new and installed. +Removed contaminated oil and put new oil, ran engine for 5-10 mins. prior to performing both test. + +2000 Yama F100TLRY/4cyl,/4 carb results before disassemble: +Compression test (psig) - #1 thru #4 = 210/215 psig - Yamaha specs min. pressure = 135 psig. Engine was warmed before this test. +Leak test (loss %) - #1 - 2%, #2 - 4%, #3 - 1%, #4 - 2% - engine wasn't as warm before test. +Could hear air leaking from oil fill cap hole/dip stick. None from exhaust, minor from intake air chamber. +[FONT=verdana, geneva]These test results look very good to me. Glad about that but no indication from test for water/oil problem?[/FONT] + +[FONT=verdana, geneva]ANSWERS TO YOUR POST:[/FONT] +[FONT=verdana, geneva]Water jacket openings at cylinder walls are 3/8"" wide x 3"" deep. My concern at piston walls is several corroded areas - particularly on #3 piston. Trying to clean well enough to paint with zinc chromate or something else/better? because factory paint is gone. I was able to remove most solid deposits using screwdriver/scrapers don't have SS brush small enough to clean. Heavy corrosion of head wall located at bottom water /oil passage but the gasket surface looked good. Had head weld repaired / re-machined, ready to reinstall. Hope this is the only area that caused water in oil issue? + +[/FONT]","Re: Yama F100 TLRY 4 CYL/CARB Clean water chambers on block + + + +labtek said: + + + + What prompted you to remove the head? + +Are you saying that the water passages in the block are too restricted to insert a brush? How big is your brush? If the water passages in the block are significantly restricted, (like it sounds that they are) your motor is probably overheating. + +Are you also saying that you are seeing ""corrosion"" on the cylinder walls? + +Is this a salt water motor? If so, the deposits in the block are salt related residues that can build up over time, especially if the motor was not flushed with fresh water regularly and can build up more quickly if the motor is not being properly cooled. If the ""corrosion"" is in fact scoring of the cylinder walls, this can be a result of over heating as well. + +If it were me, I would replace the head, torque the bolts to specs in the proper order and do a compression test. If the results were unacceptable, you may have a game changer. + +Click to expand... + + +THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR REPLY !!! + +HISTORY FOR REMOVING HEAD: +Yamaha - Hoping I can get some info on where and how water gets into engine oil. My motor only has 175 hours and looks like brand new externally. I purchased from my uncle 1 year ago and I only used motor 5 times. Had water pump rebuilt and carbs cleaned before using. Drained engine oil and it was fine. +Checked oil prior to starting a couple days ago and the oil was cream colored, shocking and disappointing. I drained and all of it was cream color and some of it was thick. When I pulled plug a little clear water, approx. a teaspoon, came out then muck oil. + +Removed thermostat - crusty and stuck open. Purchased new and installed. +Removed contaminated oil and put new oil, ran engine for 5-10 mins. prior to performing both test. + +2000 Yama F100TLRY/4cyl,/4 carb results before disassemble: +Compression test (psig) - #1 thru #4 = 210/215 psig - Yamaha specs min. pressure = 135 psig. Engine was warmed before this test. +Leak test (loss %) - #1 - 2%, #2 - 4%, #3 - 1%, #4 - 2% - engine wasn't as warm before test. +Could hear air leaking from oil fill cap hole/dip stick. None from exhaust, minor from intake air chamber. +[FONT=verdana, geneva]These test results look very good to me. Glad about that but no indication from test for water/oil problem?[/FONT] + +[FONT=verdana, geneva]ANSWERS TO YOUR POST:[/FONT] +[FONT=verdana, geneva]Water jacket openings at cylinder walls are 3/8"" wide x 3"" deep. My concern at piston walls is several corroded areas - particularly on #3 piston. Trying to clean well enough to paint with zinc chromate or something else/better? because factory paint is gone. I was able to remove most solid deposits using screwdriver/scrapers don't have SS brush small enough to clean. Heavy corrosion of head wall located at bottom water /oil passage but the gasket surface looked good. Had head weld repaired / re-machined, ready to reinstall. Hope this is the only area that caused water in oil issue? + +[/FONT]","Bump... + +is the Mariner seloc manual the same for the Yamaha? + +can anyone confirm full advance timing on a 84-87 25hp Yamaha?" +"I have a 02 yamaha 2 stroke 150, I put a new water pump in it a year ago and ran it almost every weekend. It sit the last 3 months so I hooked it up to miffs to make sure no problems. It melted the water pump housing in less than a minute running. I flushed the motor in every way possible, no blockadge.I put new everything on for water pump, started again. And melted it again in less than a minute. I can attach hose to the flush hose on side of motor and run the motor with lower unit off, doesn't over heat pissing great. Put lower unit on, not pissing. I have called 8 different techs and showed 2, no one knows why. Any ideas on what to try now? Water pump is on right, and didn't help when put in a run tub","Any suggestions are appricated, it could be something simple I've over looked. Someone somewhere has to of had this happen to them.","Any suggestions are appricated, it could be something simple I've over looked. Someone somewhere has to of had this happen to them.","You know that since no one in the US has ever heard of ""...Spoilt Gas/Petrol..."", perhaps you should research it a little further with those who know... + +It could be just from a run switching a pipeline system over from pumping diesel to pumping 95 octane. A small amount of diesel wouldn't harm your engine. + +You sure wouldn't run it in your Bentley but might work in your boat. You also couldn't run the typical petrol/oil outboard mix in your Bentley either. + +Around here, there are so many ""Low Speed"" zones (and that's worst case fuel efficiency in a Yamaha 2-cycle) I added a 4-stroke/10 HP Honda to do that work and my overall fuel burn is well below 3 gallons per hour over the past few hundred hours. + +At higher speed, the 2-Stroke Yamaha 90 is equal in fuel efficiency with a 4-Stroke. + +See if you can find an Octane rating for this mix since it may just give your engine a little extra lubrication without any detonation damage. And if it were just a little low (like 84 or so), your high throttle lever spark advance could be moved from 22 degrees (or whatever) to a lower BTDC to prevent any detonation, or you could mix with a little 95 to bring it up to 87. + +During The War, your Grandparents were running their petrol cars on Kerosene (usually called paraffin in the UK, with a timing adjustment) and today, the RAF powers their fastest Jets on Kerosene. (Jet Fuel is just refined kerosene with a little petrol added in some military applications.) +Art" +"I have a 02 yamaha 2 stroke 150, I put a new water pump in it a year ago and ran it almost every weekend. It sit the last 3 months so I hooked it up to miffs to make sure no problems. It melted the water pump housing in less than a minute running. I flushed the motor in every way possible, no blockadge.I put new everything on for water pump, started again. And melted it again in less than a minute. I can attach hose to the flush hose on side of motor and run the motor with lower unit off, doesn't over heat pissing great. Put lower unit on, not pissing. I have called 8 different techs and showed 2, no one knows why. Any ideas on what to try now? Water pump is on right, and didn't help when put in a run tub",Remove lower unit.-------Remove waterpump.----------Pour water into the lower pump plate intake hole .-----Does the water run out the intake?,Remove lower unit.-------Remove waterpump.----------Pour water into the lower pump plate intake hole .-----Does the water run out the intake?,"Try to me more precise mate. I don't understand your question. +_________________________ +Steve Works +plumbing" +"I have a 02 yamaha 2 stroke 150, I put a new water pump in it a year ago and ran it almost every weekend. It sit the last 3 months so I hooked it up to miffs to make sure no problems. It melted the water pump housing in less than a minute running. I flushed the motor in every way possible, no blockadge.I put new everything on for water pump, started again. And melted it again in less than a minute. I can attach hose to the flush hose on side of motor and run the motor with lower unit off, doesn't over heat pissing great. Put lower unit on, not pissing. I have called 8 different techs and showed 2, no one knows why. Any ideas on what to try now? Water pump is on right, and didn't help when put in a run tub","Yes, nothing is blocking the ports coming from the pick ups to the water pump","Yes, nothing is blocking the ports coming from the pick ups to the water pump","You saying that when in neutral there is water exiting telltale, then when in gear water no longer exits telltale?? When installed correctly, water pump doesn’t “lose” prime. It’s spinning as the crankshaft is spinning." +"I have a 02 yamaha 2 stroke 150, I put a new water pump in it a year ago and ran it almost every weekend. It sit the last 3 months so I hooked it up to miffs to make sure no problems. It melted the water pump housing in less than a minute running. I flushed the motor in every way possible, no blockadge.I put new everything on for water pump, started again. And melted it again in less than a minute. I can attach hose to the flush hose on side of motor and run the motor with lower unit off, doesn't over heat pissing great. Put lower unit on, not pissing. I have called 8 different techs and showed 2, no one knows why. Any ideas on what to try now? Water pump is on right, and didn't help when put in a run tub","Dstecea said: + + + + Yes, nothing is blocking the ports coming from the pick ups to the water pump + +Click to expand... + + +Is something blocking the outflow?","Dstecea said: + + + + Yes, nothing is blocking the ports coming from the pick ups to the water pump + +Click to expand... + + +Is something blocking the outflow?","Aside from the filtering mechanism itself, the water separator shud not be a cause of fuel starvation. It's simply a reservior. But it sounds like you've isolated the separator as the issue. Only 2 possible reason I can think of, both human errors. The wrong size filter or you mistakenly connected the outlet fuel hose to the inlet filter." +"I have a 02 yamaha 2 stroke 150, I put a new water pump in it a year ago and ran it almost every weekend. It sit the last 3 months so I hooked it up to miffs to make sure no problems. It melted the water pump housing in less than a minute running. I flushed the motor in every way possible, no blockadge.I put new everything on for water pump, started again. And melted it again in less than a minute. I can attach hose to the flush hose on side of motor and run the motor with lower unit off, doesn't over heat pissing great. Put lower unit on, not pissing. I have called 8 different techs and showed 2, no one knows why. Any ideas on what to try now? Water pump is on right, and didn't help when put in a run tub","With the lower unit off, hooked to the flush hose water streams out of it fine. Put lower unit back on and do the same, it will not stream out.","With the lower unit off, hooked to the flush hose water streams out of it fine. Put lower unit back on and do the same, it will not stream out.",Could be the high pressure pump is inop. Have you listened to see if the pump runs when the key is turned on? +"I have a 02 yamaha 2 stroke 150, I put a new water pump in it a year ago and ran it almost every weekend. It sit the last 3 months so I hooked it up to miffs to make sure no problems. It melted the water pump housing in less than a minute running. I flushed the motor in every way possible, no blockadge.I put new everything on for water pump, started again. And melted it again in less than a minute. I can attach hose to the flush hose on side of motor and run the motor with lower unit off, doesn't over heat pissing great. Put lower unit on, not pissing. I have called 8 different techs and showed 2, no one knows why. Any ideas on what to try now? Water pump is on right, and didn't help when put in a run tub","Are you sure you are putting everything back? Do you have the collar, lock and spring washers that preload the impeller to the wear plate? Sounds like something is out of place. Maybe take it back apart and take a few pictures to post. + +This will sound stupid but, throw away the rectangular flush muffs if you are using them, they suck. The cheap round ones work the best.","Are you sure you are putting everything back? Do you have the collar, lock and spring washers that preload the impeller to the wear plate? Sounds like something is out of place. Maybe take it back apart and take a few pictures to post. + +This will sound stupid but, throw away the rectangular flush muffs if you are using them, they suck. The cheap round ones work the best.","Had a good trip from to Catalina Sunday. A little frustration at the launch ramp. Port motor started right up, that's the one that has the problems. Starboard wouldn't start, not even turn over. After cussing on it, and that didn't fix it, I took truck/boat to back end of launch area. Worked on it for almost 3 hours before I figured out one fo the two paraled batteries connections wasn't connected. My guess is that the mechanic had to take the battery set-up apart to get the new rigging harness and didn't but it back. Between that and me cleaning up all electrical connections, it was good to go. By then the wind/chop picked up so it was a good test. Had to adjuct friction of throttles on the water, which worked out okay as well. Hope the intermittent issue has been finally solved." +"I have a 02 yamaha 2 stroke 150, I put a new water pump in it a year ago and ran it almost every weekend. It sit the last 3 months so I hooked it up to miffs to make sure no problems. It melted the water pump housing in less than a minute running. I flushed the motor in every way possible, no blockadge.I put new everything on for water pump, started again. And melted it again in less than a minute. I can attach hose to the flush hose on side of motor and run the motor with lower unit off, doesn't over heat pissing great. Put lower unit on, not pissing. I have called 8 different techs and showed 2, no one knows why. Any ideas on what to try now? Water pump is on right, and didn't help when put in a run tub","Everything is in right, I have done many and it has been cheked just incase. And after the first one burnt up, I ran it in a run tub. Home made, but much larger than a 55 gallon drum.","Everything is in right, I have done many and it has been cheked just incase. And after the first one burnt up, I ran it in a run tub. Home made, but much larger than a 55 gallon drum.","I suggest you pot that on the Johnson/Evinrude forum on this site. Go to the top of this page. Go to ""Forum Home."" Select Johnson/Evinrude Outboards. + +Also, you need to be more specific - negative wire came of what terminal and shorted to what?" +"I have a 02 yamaha 2 stroke 150, I put a new water pump in it a year ago and ran it almost every weekend. It sit the last 3 months so I hooked it up to miffs to make sure no problems. It melted the water pump housing in less than a minute running. I flushed the motor in every way possible, no blockadge.I put new everything on for water pump, started again. And melted it again in less than a minute. I can attach hose to the flush hose on side of motor and run the motor with lower unit off, doesn't over heat pissing great. Put lower unit on, not pissing. I have called 8 different techs and showed 2, no one knows why. Any ideas on what to try now? Water pump is on right, and didn't help when put in a run tub","And thank you for the reply. I don't mean to be a pain, I'm just annoyed with it. I have had it apart 5 times now and still can't use it.","And thank you for the reply. I don't mean to be a pain, I'm just annoyed with it. I have had it apart 5 times now and still can't use it.","boscoe said: + + + + A clean 2 micron filter won't hurt anything. A dirty 10 micron filter can starve the motor of gasoline. + +Neither will damage a fuel pump. + +Other fuel restrictions, of which there are many, can come into play. + + +The real issue is that some two strokes can be damaged if and when the fuel supply is restricted, causing the motor to run lean for a period of time. + +Click to expand... + + +That make sense." +"I have a 02 yamaha 2 stroke 150, I put a new water pump in it a year ago and ran it almost every weekend. It sit the last 3 months so I hooked it up to miffs to make sure no problems. It melted the water pump housing in less than a minute running. I flushed the motor in every way possible, no blockadge.I put new everything on for water pump, started again. And melted it again in less than a minute. I can attach hose to the flush hose on side of motor and run the motor with lower unit off, doesn't over heat pissing great. Put lower unit on, not pissing. I have called 8 different techs and showed 2, no one knows why. Any ideas on what to try now? Water pump is on right, and didn't help when put in a run tub","Dstecea said: + + + + And thank you for the reply. I don't mean to be a pain, I'm just annoyed with it. I have had it apart 5 times now and still can't use it. + +Click to expand... + + +I would take it apart one more time and post some pictures. +You are missing something.","Dstecea said: + + + + And thank you for the reply. I don't mean to be a pain, I'm just annoyed with it. I have had it apart 5 times now and still can't use it. + +Click to expand... + + +I would take it apart one more time and post some pictures. +You are missing something.","Thanks and I agree. Something went wrong with oil somewhere. No receipts for the oil from last year, etc. + +Ended up doing 5 oil changes (I had cheap dino oil around for another project) and 3 filter changes. Pulling out the goop out of the drain port over and over. The Sea Foam soak helped a little. Last oil change was with 16oz of Motor Clean. On the third change the air locking of the oil filter stopped and the low oil horn didn't sound. Ran it up between 2 - 3K RPM's on and off to heat things up and break up what little of the goop was left. + +The 4th and 5th changes ran w/o issue, no locking up in the oil filter, no low oil horn. Ran it nice and long with the last two changes to really get things moving and make sure it was OK. Drained it, went and got some Yamaha 4M and a new marine oil filter, installed and ran again. No issues. Held my breath, hooked up and went to the lake. No issues throughout the power range all the way up to WOT. + +Saved three samples of the goop and I'm going to take it to the dealer next week. This just wasn't right. I've changed oil for over 30 years in boats, aircraft and numerous vehicles, I've never seen anything like this, even with my previous 4 stroke O/B. My brother (life long mechanic) thinks the syn oil sitting over winter make have broke down. If so, that really sucks for $60 a gallon oil. + +We'll see. Engine is back and I can get on the water finally." +How to find out what year my f40 is.,My year of manufacture is on the transom next to the vin number - mines a f25 made in 2001,My year of manufacture is on the transom next to the vin number - mines a f25 made in 2001,"if the wheel turns easy with the steering arm disconnected, the cable may be okay...I've found many times, you have to remove the cable from the engine's mount and clean the tube the cable end travels back and forth in...a bore brush kit, a drill, and some pb blaster along with some rags is usually enough..." +"I have been chasing this problem for several months and have had it to three different marine mechanics with no luck on curing the problem. +The motor runs great on a hose! I put it in the water and run it anywhere from 5-35 minutes and it develops a severe shudder and loss of power! I go into neutral and rev it several times, it clears out and restores power, put it back in gear and run for a few minutes then goes back to the power loss and shudder. +The engine never shuts off or stalls, it just looses power. It will also run all day in gear at 1700rpm but as soon as you get it up running over 3000 it looses power. +The carbs have been rebuilt by two different marine mechanics! I recently replaced all of the fuel lines, water separator, cleaned the tank and filled with non ethanol fuel... the problem is still there! +Im starting to think electrical. coils, stator? +Can someone please give me a clue on how to fix this? + +Thanks, Bill","Testing on a hose means nothing here,--------Start with a compression test.--------Time to do some real and simple testing .----You run with a timing light and see how spark behaves when motor falters.----Test all 4 leads.------Then use a strong flashlight to look into the 4 carburetor bores to see how fuel coming up the jets compares one carburetor bore to another at full throttle.","Testing on a hose means nothing here,--------Start with a compression test.--------Time to do some real and simple testing .----You run with a timing light and see how spark behaves when motor falters.----Test all 4 leads.------Then use a strong flashlight to look into the 4 carburetor bores to see how fuel coming up the jets compares one carburetor bore to another at full throttle.","Well, yeah that’s what I figured but any ideas how to access it?" +"I have been chasing this problem for several months and have had it to three different marine mechanics with no luck on curing the problem. +The motor runs great on a hose! I put it in the water and run it anywhere from 5-35 minutes and it develops a severe shudder and loss of power! I go into neutral and rev it several times, it clears out and restores power, put it back in gear and run for a few minutes then goes back to the power loss and shudder. +The engine never shuts off or stalls, it just looses power. It will also run all day in gear at 1700rpm but as soon as you get it up running over 3000 it looses power. +The carbs have been rebuilt by two different marine mechanics! I recently replaced all of the fuel lines, water separator, cleaned the tank and filled with non ethanol fuel... the problem is still there! +Im starting to think electrical. coils, stator? +Can someone please give me a clue on how to fix this? + +Thanks, Bill",When it acts up pull the plugs and inspect them for moisture especially the lower 2 cylinders.,When it acts up pull the plugs and inspect them for moisture especially the lower 2 cylinders.,Follow the path of fuel delivery once inside cowling.....filter -> pump -> carbs. The leak has to be coming from one of these components or the hose connections. Check the carb bowl screws to ensure tight. Check fuel filter cap is screwed on tight. Squeeze primer bulb while eyeballing for leak. +"I have been chasing this problem for several months and have had it to three different marine mechanics with no luck on curing the problem. +The motor runs great on a hose! I put it in the water and run it anywhere from 5-35 minutes and it develops a severe shudder and loss of power! I go into neutral and rev it several times, it clears out and restores power, put it back in gear and run for a few minutes then goes back to the power loss and shudder. +The engine never shuts off or stalls, it just looses power. It will also run all day in gear at 1700rpm but as soon as you get it up running over 3000 it looses power. +The carbs have been rebuilt by two different marine mechanics! I recently replaced all of the fuel lines, water separator, cleaned the tank and filled with non ethanol fuel... the problem is still there! +Im starting to think electrical. coils, stator? +Can someone please give me a clue on how to fix this? + +Thanks, Bill",Have you checked the fuel pumps?,Have you checked the fuel pumps?,"I looked it up and it takes from 10-20V input power. So, I think I am safe. Whew! I just need to make sure I don't buy maintenance free batteries when I need to buy batteries." +"I have been chasing this problem for several months and have had it to three different marine mechanics with no luck on curing the problem. +The motor runs great on a hose! I put it in the water and run it anywhere from 5-35 minutes and it develops a severe shudder and loss of power! I go into neutral and rev it several times, it clears out and restores power, put it back in gear and run for a few minutes then goes back to the power loss and shudder. +The engine never shuts off or stalls, it just looses power. It will also run all day in gear at 1700rpm but as soon as you get it up running over 3000 it looses power. +The carbs have been rebuilt by two different marine mechanics! I recently replaced all of the fuel lines, water separator, cleaned the tank and filled with non ethanol fuel... the problem is still there! +Im starting to think electrical. coils, stator? +Can someone please give me a clue on how to fix this? + +Thanks, Bill","faztbullet said: + + + + When it acts up pull the plugs and inspect them for moisture especially the lower 2 cylinders. + +Click to expand... + + + +^^^^^^^^^2nd that having lost a 1996 115 SS last year doing the same thing, but mine took it a little further and would lock down and shut off. Wait for it to cool off a few minutes and it would run all day, or at least 8 miles which is how far I had to idle to get back to dock. Good Luck and apparently those motors had a corrosion issue with lower seal or something like that.","faztbullet said: + + + + When it acts up pull the plugs and inspect them for moisture especially the lower 2 cylinders. + +Click to expand... + + + +^^^^^^^^^2nd that having lost a 1996 115 SS last year doing the same thing, but mine took it a little further and would lock down and shut off. Wait for it to cool off a few minutes and it would run all day, or at least 8 miles which is how far I had to idle to get back to dock. Good Luck and apparently those motors had a corrosion issue with lower seal or something like that.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Did you have the injectors serviced? They may not be flowing enough fuel... + +How sure are you that the engine is turning 6000RPM? + +Click to expand... + + + +the original tac is showing 6000 but it’s pretty damn old and not digital. The injectors I replaced about two weeks ago when I cleaned the vst. I’m still not ruling out an injector might need cleaned" +"Have a 200hp saltwater series, 2 cycle, carbed. I'm guessing the motor is circa 1990's. Data tag is scratched up. Anyway, had the local shop do a lot of maintainence last summer and was running fine. Took it out last week for the first time this year and it started fine. Ran it between 3600 and 4200 rpm for about 20-30 minutes and ran fine. Passed by a fuel dock so I slowed to a no wake speed. Throttled up to about 3200 rpm and a few seconds later it dropped back to 2800 rpm. Gave it full throttle and very briefly got a rise in rpm but settled back to 2800 rpm with lever full forward. Ran smooth, just would not go above 2800 rpm. Got it back to the dock and next day checked fuel/water filter in hull, fuel filter on the engine, primer bulb, fuel vent. Carbs appear to be opening all the way. Filled it with non-ethanol fuel last fall and put in stabilizer. Took it out again and started right up, ran smooth but would not go over 2800 rpms with lever full forward. Any ideas cuz I'm stuck.","So you are using last year's fuel? I generally do not trust old fuel (even with stabilizer). Anyway, suggest that you carefully check over the motor for compromised connections, vacuum connections that may now have a small leak (sucking air) which can affect fuel delivery from the fuel pump. Sometimes connection clamps can vibrate loose over time. Also small cracks in rubber hoses that carry vacuum air. The fact that the engine runs smoothly (although lower RPM) is probably a good sign. Replace anything that looks suspicious. Sounds to me that something has come loose.","So you are using last year's fuel? I generally do not trust old fuel (even with stabilizer). Anyway, suggest that you carefully check over the motor for compromised connections, vacuum connections that may now have a small leak (sucking air) which can affect fuel delivery from the fuel pump. Sometimes connection clamps can vibrate loose over time. Also small cracks in rubber hoses that carry vacuum air. The fact that the engine runs smoothly (although lower RPM) is probably a good sign. Replace anything that looks suspicious. Sounds to me that something has come loose.","then go with your preferences....just understand all the trades so you can make the solution optimal for your needs....and don't be surprised to find other opinions. + +Haven't investigated DC-DC chargers but I'd think that's not only expensive but more complicated...." +"Have a 200hp saltwater series, 2 cycle, carbed. I'm guessing the motor is circa 1990's. Data tag is scratched up. Anyway, had the local shop do a lot of maintainence last summer and was running fine. Took it out last week for the first time this year and it started fine. Ran it between 3600 and 4200 rpm for about 20-30 minutes and ran fine. Passed by a fuel dock so I slowed to a no wake speed. Throttled up to about 3200 rpm and a few seconds later it dropped back to 2800 rpm. Gave it full throttle and very briefly got a rise in rpm but settled back to 2800 rpm with lever full forward. Ran smooth, just would not go above 2800 rpm. Got it back to the dock and next day checked fuel/water filter in hull, fuel filter on the engine, primer bulb, fuel vent. Carbs appear to be opening all the way. Filled it with non-ethanol fuel last fall and put in stabilizer. Took it out again and started right up, ran smooth but would not go over 2800 rpms with lever full forward. Any ideas cuz I'm stuck.",have you checked all wires and cylinders? Are there any holes in your fuel pump?,have you checked all wires and cylinders? Are there any holes in your fuel pump?,"So I took the thermostat off, which is 11 years old and looked new somehow, and backflushed the system. I did not see anything come out but it could have. The inside of the block looks good, no flaking or heavy corrosion. + +Put the lower unit back on, put it in water and it worked perfectly. Tried the Yamaha Flush System, that worked perfectly too. Go figure. Had to be a mud dobber that got in through the Yamaha Flush System that I left open... That is my only guess." +"Have a 200hp saltwater series, 2 cycle, carbed. I'm guessing the motor is circa 1990's. Data tag is scratched up. Anyway, had the local shop do a lot of maintainence last summer and was running fine. Took it out last week for the first time this year and it started fine. Ran it between 3600 and 4200 rpm for about 20-30 minutes and ran fine. Passed by a fuel dock so I slowed to a no wake speed. Throttled up to about 3200 rpm and a few seconds later it dropped back to 2800 rpm. Gave it full throttle and very briefly got a rise in rpm but settled back to 2800 rpm with lever full forward. Ran smooth, just would not go above 2800 rpm. Got it back to the dock and next day checked fuel/water filter in hull, fuel filter on the engine, primer bulb, fuel vent. Carbs appear to be opening all the way. Filled it with non-ethanol fuel last fall and put in stabilizer. Took it out again and started right up, ran smooth but would not go over 2800 rpms with lever full forward. Any ideas cuz I'm stuck.",Thanks for your reply. Will do tomorrow and post results,Thanks for your reply. Will do tomorrow and post results,Our 225 was like that and we finally figured out that it was the shift rod that goes into the lower unit had broken off down in the lower unit. +"I just bought a sailboat with a yamaha 9.9elhq. The motor runs like a top without the cowling on. The second it gets clamped down the motor stalls as if my thumb was plugging the intake. The vent on the cowling is free of obstruction. + +Is there a secondary air inlet im unaware of? + +I see nothing on the motor out of the ordinary. + +Ive done a ton of googling on this and cant seem to find any concrete information. + +Please help! Any advice is welcomed!",It is almost allways a exhaust leak on the motor starving it of oxygen. Take a piece of vacuum tubing and stick one end in your ear and search all the gaskets with the other end while the engine is running. Just be careful of moving parts.,It is almost allways a exhaust leak on the motor starving it of oxygen. Take a piece of vacuum tubing and stick one end in your ear and search all the gaskets with the other end while the engine is running. Just be careful of moving parts.,"Hi All, +thought I'd update as my problem still persists. Ive done extensive diagnosis and it seems the water stops pumping when the motor rises up on plane. I've tried it many times over the last few days and its always the same; no problem at idle right up through fast cruising, but as soon as the boat planes up, the tell tale stops and it overheats. Same thing at in neutral; fine until I lift he motor to a certain height, but with the intake still well under water. I've replaced the water pump with all gaskets and thermostat. Its been checked and double checked by a local well respected mechanic. It seems that on plane, the water pump is above the water level; am I correct that the pump should be sucking the water up at this time? Any reason it wouldn't be? Anyone seen this condition? My family loves being on the boat but theyre getting bored with headway speed all summer. Thanks!" +"I just bought a sailboat with a yamaha 9.9elhq. The motor runs like a top without the cowling on. The second it gets clamped down the motor stalls as if my thumb was plugging the intake. The vent on the cowling is free of obstruction. + +Is there a secondary air inlet im unaware of? + +I see nothing on the motor out of the ordinary. + +Ive done a ton of googling on this and cant seem to find any concrete information. + +Please help! Any advice is welcomed!","Is the motor mounted on the transom ?----------Is the motor mounted in a "" lazarette "" and not enuff fresh air?","Is the motor mounted on the transom ?----------Is the motor mounted in a "" lazarette "" and not enuff fresh air?",i forgot to say that with the air pocket problem the bilge will have water but the pump is running but not primed... +"I just bought a sailboat with a yamaha 9.9elhq. The motor runs like a top without the cowling on. The second it gets clamped down the motor stalls as if my thumb was plugging the intake. The vent on the cowling is free of obstruction. + +Is there a secondary air inlet im unaware of? + +I see nothing on the motor out of the ordinary. + +Ive done a ton of googling on this and cant seem to find any concrete information. + +Please help! Any advice is welcomed!","racerone said: + + + + Is the motor mounted on the transom ?----------Is the motor mounted in a "" lazarette "" and not enuff fresh air? + +Click to expand... + + +Transom mounted","racerone said: + + + + Is the motor mounted on the transom ?----------Is the motor mounted in a "" lazarette "" and not enuff fresh air? + +Click to expand... + + +Transom mounted",What is your engines model number and year? +"Hi Guys, +this is a quickie... +does anyone know what the correct fuel/oil mix ratio is for a 1981 40 2cyl Yamaha is ? +thanks...",50-1 fuel mix,50-1 fuel mix,"waynebrown said: + + + + sounds like a spun prop hub. + +Click to expand... + + +Is there a way to check for a sprung prop hub?" +"Hi everyone. +I have never had an outboard before this one. It was sold to me as near new, with less than ten hours on it. Other than a scratch on the cowling, it looks new although it is an old model. The guy said it was tuned up right before he sold it to me, but from the get go, it gave me trouble. It was hard to start, although that may have been partially operator error. Within the first couple hours of running it, the cover of the tiller came off and disappeared exposing the throttle cable. Somehow, the bushing inside the cowl on the tiller also disappeared soon after making the tiller extremely loose. I have been using the motor on a dinghy which i severely need to be reliable to get to and from my boat which I live on. Dinghy is too large and it is too far to row. This motor has been a nightmare, being impossible to start or keep running, randomly stalling you name the problem. I try to take good care of it, always turning off fuel hoses and keeping it up, but it obviously has had something wrong with it for a long time. + + +One night the engine failed to start at all for the first time ever. Usually after excessive cranking, cursing and going crazy because I can't get onto shore due to this stupid piece of **** to get a shower, food etc, it will finally start up, but this time, I had to give up and go to sleep in frustration early. A storm brewed, and I woke up at midnight to find my boat adrift, my anchors wrapped around a drowned tree trunk. In the chaos that ensued as I almost lost my boat and possibly life against a seawall, I lost the motor in the sea about 12 feet deep. I spent the next week or so diving for it after investing in dive equipment. Finally I found it. It looked fine, I kept it in water until ready to work on it, pickled etc. Took apart carb, sprayed with starting fluid, cleaned all pieces with the help of someone who knew what they were doing. Got it all together, finally it started again. The idiot proof can't start in forward/reverse thing is now a bitch to calibrate, and calibration doesnt seem possible so I disabled it. Also, the white plastic piece in the flywheel that hooks on the thing to turn it when you pull was stuck shut, so I tied it open or it could not catch to start the engine. Also the throttle cable was all splayed, the guy who had replaced it previously used a bike cable I think, and did not deal with the end o f it. near impossible to get through the fitting + + +Ran it for an hour or two. It ran great actually, and started first of second pull. But of course that would all change. The next day, it was back to being difficult to start. Running well, but difficult as usual. + +Then, I can't believe this actually happened , but the motor jumped off the boat and fell in once again. Again not running. it was tightened down fully, but it was up, There was heavy chop, and I dove off the side of the boat. Down with me came the motor......I guess I need to modify the transom so it stays on better. Anyway I dove down and got it within 30 seconds as air was still leaving whatever it leaves in bubbles. I actually tried to start it a few times right there, after draining it out horizontally. Didn't work. Did the exact same thing as I had done before. + +This time, while it was apart I noticed that the fuel filter in the carb looks like ****, its got what looks like salt residue all over it. It wouldn't be cleaned though by the starting fluid. Also it was kind of rippled. After putting the carb on I noticed a gasket was missing. The one before powerhead and where carb is put on. there was a good seal though metal on metal and I had to get ashore, so I ran the motor without the gasket. Also, now throttle cable is super fd up, and I had to thread it in a weird way around carb just to get it to function. It ran now finally just like last time, but this time very weakly. unsteadily, randomly stalling and unable to really get into high gear so to speak. Only ran it like 30 min after first start following servicing, and had to then leave it for 36 hours. Came back to it with replacement gasket, put it on, but seal doesnt look good. looks like a millimeter of space near new gasket. can't be fixed though by tightening carb which is already full tightened, nor by cleaning the surfaces further they are clean. the thing wouldn't start easily, but finally did. barely ran though, achieving about 1/3 RPM that it used to. But it got me to my boat. randomly cut off after running for 10 seconds a few times, also smoking out of carb sometimes when if cuts off. + +Surprise! next morning the motor wouldn't start(today) I did the same thing, took off carb, adjusted gasket to try and get it to seal better. No luck there still 1 MM gap. Cant tell if that is a gap going all the way to the carb, or just on the edge of the fitting. Anyway I don't think sucking air is the real problem. I have concluded that it is fuel supply. I watched the carb as it injected fuel which looks kind of sputtery and sloppy though I don't know what its supposed to look like. Heres a really strange thing happening now + +sometimes it will only start in fully closed choke, but once would only start with fully open choke. then it would only run with fully open choke, but THEN.... it was starting to cut out after about 10 minutes of running, and required me to close the choke most of the way to keep it running. BUT if I closed it a bit further it cut out also. So I thought I had the sweet spot so to speak figured out as to where the choke needs to be for the engine to run right now. But I feel like it is ridiculous and a sign of something wrong that I need to do that and I would love to know what it is. NOW it is like the thing can't decide how much air it wants, the RPM is super irregular, sometimes it goes crazy for no reason, and I need to constantly have my hand adjusting the choke just to keep it running. I have determined maybe this is a fuel supply problem, and after reading a lot on here maybe it is the fuel jets? Or possible I need to replace that filter that doesnt look too good. I would like anyones opinion on trying o make this motor which is supposed to be so great actually run reliable. I am really frustrated and at the point of putting an ad on craigslist to sell it, or even trade it for a kayak or sailing dinghy or anything that will at least get me to shore reliably. But I really need it to run because it is the backup motor for my sailboat while I am repairing the diesel. Without it I could lose my boat/house due to being ""derelict"" while my diesel is still undergoing repair + +maintenance: random ""guys in the hood"" offer to work on it for 100 dollars. I don't know if they know this motor, what kind of job they do, and time is something i have money I don't. I prefer to work on ti myself and learn what I need to know, get the tools I need and have them etc rather than pay a crackhead from the anchorage. Professional places won't work on it, it's too old, too small whatever. And they want tons of money too.","You really do not have many options. If you absolutely need a motor, consider buying a new one. Buying an old motor and expecting it to run flawlessly forever is an unreal expectation. If your motor DOES NOT run flawlessly (which apparently it is not), you then have 3 options- throw it away and buy a new one, fix it yourself or have someone else do it. If you cannot fix it yourself and elect to keep the motor, you then only have 1 option- have someone else repair it. If you live in a neighbourhood of ""crack heads"", you have a larger problem than a faulty outboard. Outboards are a totally different beast than any other type of motor- if they fail, you could easily find yourself in a life threatening situation very quickly. Do yourself a favour- live on dry land or buy a new outboard. Otherwise be sure to wear your PFD at all times.","You really do not have many options. If you absolutely need a motor, consider buying a new one. Buying an old motor and expecting it to run flawlessly forever is an unreal expectation. If your motor DOES NOT run flawlessly (which apparently it is not), you then have 3 options- throw it away and buy a new one, fix it yourself or have someone else do it. If you cannot fix it yourself and elect to keep the motor, you then only have 1 option- have someone else repair it. If you live in a neighbourhood of ""crack heads"", you have a larger problem than a faulty outboard. Outboards are a totally different beast than any other type of motor- if they fail, you could easily find yourself in a life threatening situation very quickly. Do yourself a favour- live on dry land or buy a new outboard. Otherwise be sure to wear your PFD at all times.",Cleaned battery cables. Blows fuse on Battery both #1 and #2. Only blows fuse when I crank it. Can I run a jumper cable from Battery right to starter and ground -- to bypass cables going through transom? Could they be half broken? Or do I have to hire someone with a scaner? Thanks For Your Help. John Waterloo +"Hi everyone. +I have never had an outboard before this one. It was sold to me as near new, with less than ten hours on it. Other than a scratch on the cowling, it looks new although it is an old model. The guy said it was tuned up right before he sold it to me, but from the get go, it gave me trouble. It was hard to start, although that may have been partially operator error. Within the first couple hours of running it, the cover of the tiller came off and disappeared exposing the throttle cable. Somehow, the bushing inside the cowl on the tiller also disappeared soon after making the tiller extremely loose. I have been using the motor on a dinghy which i severely need to be reliable to get to and from my boat which I live on. Dinghy is too large and it is too far to row. This motor has been a nightmare, being impossible to start or keep running, randomly stalling you name the problem. I try to take good care of it, always turning off fuel hoses and keeping it up, but it obviously has had something wrong with it for a long time. + + +One night the engine failed to start at all for the first time ever. Usually after excessive cranking, cursing and going crazy because I can't get onto shore due to this stupid piece of **** to get a shower, food etc, it will finally start up, but this time, I had to give up and go to sleep in frustration early. A storm brewed, and I woke up at midnight to find my boat adrift, my anchors wrapped around a drowned tree trunk. In the chaos that ensued as I almost lost my boat and possibly life against a seawall, I lost the motor in the sea about 12 feet deep. I spent the next week or so diving for it after investing in dive equipment. Finally I found it. It looked fine, I kept it in water until ready to work on it, pickled etc. Took apart carb, sprayed with starting fluid, cleaned all pieces with the help of someone who knew what they were doing. Got it all together, finally it started again. The idiot proof can't start in forward/reverse thing is now a bitch to calibrate, and calibration doesnt seem possible so I disabled it. Also, the white plastic piece in the flywheel that hooks on the thing to turn it when you pull was stuck shut, so I tied it open or it could not catch to start the engine. Also the throttle cable was all splayed, the guy who had replaced it previously used a bike cable I think, and did not deal with the end o f it. near impossible to get through the fitting + + +Ran it for an hour or two. It ran great actually, and started first of second pull. But of course that would all change. The next day, it was back to being difficult to start. Running well, but difficult as usual. + +Then, I can't believe this actually happened , but the motor jumped off the boat and fell in once again. Again not running. it was tightened down fully, but it was up, There was heavy chop, and I dove off the side of the boat. Down with me came the motor......I guess I need to modify the transom so it stays on better. Anyway I dove down and got it within 30 seconds as air was still leaving whatever it leaves in bubbles. I actually tried to start it a few times right there, after draining it out horizontally. Didn't work. Did the exact same thing as I had done before. + +This time, while it was apart I noticed that the fuel filter in the carb looks like ****, its got what looks like salt residue all over it. It wouldn't be cleaned though by the starting fluid. Also it was kind of rippled. After putting the carb on I noticed a gasket was missing. The one before powerhead and where carb is put on. there was a good seal though metal on metal and I had to get ashore, so I ran the motor without the gasket. Also, now throttle cable is super fd up, and I had to thread it in a weird way around carb just to get it to function. It ran now finally just like last time, but this time very weakly. unsteadily, randomly stalling and unable to really get into high gear so to speak. Only ran it like 30 min after first start following servicing, and had to then leave it for 36 hours. Came back to it with replacement gasket, put it on, but seal doesnt look good. looks like a millimeter of space near new gasket. can't be fixed though by tightening carb which is already full tightened, nor by cleaning the surfaces further they are clean. the thing wouldn't start easily, but finally did. barely ran though, achieving about 1/3 RPM that it used to. But it got me to my boat. randomly cut off after running for 10 seconds a few times, also smoking out of carb sometimes when if cuts off. + +Surprise! next morning the motor wouldn't start(today) I did the same thing, took off carb, adjusted gasket to try and get it to seal better. No luck there still 1 MM gap. Cant tell if that is a gap going all the way to the carb, or just on the edge of the fitting. Anyway I don't think sucking air is the real problem. I have concluded that it is fuel supply. I watched the carb as it injected fuel which looks kind of sputtery and sloppy though I don't know what its supposed to look like. Heres a really strange thing happening now + +sometimes it will only start in fully closed choke, but once would only start with fully open choke. then it would only run with fully open choke, but THEN.... it was starting to cut out after about 10 minutes of running, and required me to close the choke most of the way to keep it running. BUT if I closed it a bit further it cut out also. So I thought I had the sweet spot so to speak figured out as to where the choke needs to be for the engine to run right now. But I feel like it is ridiculous and a sign of something wrong that I need to do that and I would love to know what it is. NOW it is like the thing can't decide how much air it wants, the RPM is super irregular, sometimes it goes crazy for no reason, and I need to constantly have my hand adjusting the choke just to keep it running. I have determined maybe this is a fuel supply problem, and after reading a lot on here maybe it is the fuel jets? Or possible I need to replace that filter that doesnt look too good. I would like anyones opinion on trying o make this motor which is supposed to be so great actually run reliable. I am really frustrated and at the point of putting an ad on craigslist to sell it, or even trade it for a kayak or sailing dinghy or anything that will at least get me to shore reliably. But I really need it to run because it is the backup motor for my sailboat while I am repairing the diesel. Without it I could lose my boat/house due to being ""derelict"" while my diesel is still undergoing repair + +maintenance: random ""guys in the hood"" offer to work on it for 100 dollars. I don't know if they know this motor, what kind of job they do, and time is something i have money I don't. I prefer to work on ti myself and learn what I need to know, get the tools I need and have them etc rather than pay a crackhead from the anchorage. Professional places won't work on it, it's too old, too small whatever. And they want tons of money too.",Especially when your motor was underwater for a week. How can you possibly expect it to run?,Especially when your motor was underwater for a week. How can you possibly expect it to run?,"The connector is for the automatic oil transfer system. No transfer, the alarm will sound if and when the engine mounted main oil tank runs low. + +The four wires are for the sensor in the oil tank and for the oil pump itself. + +The connector is usually up front with two ivory coloured four pin connectors and one black round ten pin connector." +I have a 1992 V4 115 HP outboard with two carbs. Each carb has 2 floats and 2 needle valves. I have removed and cleaned the carbs but would like to set the float height. Any idea what that spec is?,Usually the float is level when the carbs turned upside down.,Usually the float is level when the carbs turned upside down.,"Agree with Johnny (as usual) So long as you've turned the engine over with the plugs pulled with the plug openings pointed to the ground you'll have drained most all of the oil out and no worries about over-compression from oil-filled cylinders. It will smoke a bit when it fires but that it will quickly pass. This is an easy fix as starting it and burning off that oil will fix itself. Remember, in the old days we'd pull plugs and squirt a good shot of oil into the 2-stroke cylinders, turn the engine over a few times with plug wires removed to coat all cyl. walls and rings, then put it up for winter storage. They's always smoke like heck the next spring when you fired them up." +I have a 1992 V4 115 HP outboard with two carbs. Each carb has 2 floats and 2 needle valves. I have removed and cleaned the carbs but would like to set the float height. Any idea what that spec is?,"Get a service manual. In the meantime, before yours arrives, + + + + + +Do you know that if you were an aircraft mechanic and you got caught working without the manufacturer's data that you could be fined or lose your license?","Get a service manual. In the meantime, before yours arrives, + + + + + +Do you know that if you were an aircraft mechanic and you got caught working without the manufacturer's data that you could be fined or lose your license?",I have nothing in mind. Thats why I am asking... +I have a 1992 V4 115 HP outboard with two carbs. Each carb has 2 floats and 2 needle valves. I have removed and cleaned the carbs but would like to set the float height. Any idea what that spec is?,"Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + Usually the float is level when the carbs turned upside down. + +Click to expand... + + +Jerry, + +By level do you mean the height above the case is the same at the pivot end as the opposite end? + +Thanks, + +Erich","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + Usually the float is level when the carbs turned upside down. + +Click to expand... + + +Jerry, + +By level do you mean the height above the case is the same at the pivot end as the opposite end? + +Thanks, + +Erich",This is a 22ft example. The bunks are adjustable but no rollers. +I have a 1992 V4 115 HP outboard with two carbs. Each carb has 2 floats and 2 needle valves. I have removed and cleaned the carbs but would like to set the float height. Any idea what that spec is?,"boscoe said: + + + + Get a service manual. In the meantime, before yours arrives, + + + + + +Do you know that if you were an aircraft mechanic and you got caught working without the manufacturer's data that you could be fined or lose your license? + +Click to expand... + + +boscoe, + +I would get a repair manual if this were my motor but it is my brother-in-laws and he is in the process of selling the boat/motor/trailer. Is that 16.0 mm spec from the 115HP manual? Thanks for posting it. + +Erich","boscoe said: + + + + Get a service manual. In the meantime, before yours arrives, + + + + + +Do you know that if you were an aircraft mechanic and you got caught working without the manufacturer's data that you could be fined or lose your license? + +Click to expand... + + +boscoe, + +I would get a repair manual if this were my motor but it is my brother-in-laws and he is in the process of selling the boat/motor/trailer. Is that 16.0 mm spec from the 115HP manual? Thanks for posting it. + +Erich","ClassicAQ said: + + + + With what you've described it sounds like a spun hub. Remove prop and inspect hub teeth. If they look worn down then replace hub kit. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the help! That was exactly what it was, had a spare prop and it runs as expected now... + +thanks Again! + +Chad" +I have a 1992 V4 115 HP outboard with two carbs. Each carb has 2 floats and 2 needle valves. I have removed and cleaned the carbs but would like to set the float height. Any idea what that spec is?,Straight from the service manual.,Straight from the service manual.,Yamaha motors are the best .---They rarely need repairs.----So not much activity on here. +I have a 1992 V4 115 HP outboard with two carbs. Each carb has 2 floats and 2 needle valves. I have removed and cleaned the carbs but would like to set the float height. Any idea what that spec is?,"In the pic see how it's level with the housing. +That's what I mean by level.","In the pic see how it's level with the housing. +That's what I mean by level.","The part number does not indicate the type of rubber used in an impeller. + +The first three characters denote which model type the part was first used on. 6H4 denotes a 40 HP two stroke motor. Note that a 6H4 40 HP impeller can be used on numerous other models. + +The second five characters denote what the part is. 44352 denotes that the part is a water pump impeller. An F350 impeller will use 44352 as part of its complete impeller part number. + +The third two characters denote part number iterations. 00 denotes it is the first generation of the particular part. If an update is made to the part these numbers will be updated. An 00 will become a -01, a -01 will become a -02, etc. as design changes are made. A -01 is normally a form, fit and function replacement for a -00. + +The fourth two characters denote a colour code. Impellers are not colour coded and therefore -00 is used. If the part is coloured, say like a cowling, the last characters might be something like -4D. + +Bottom line is that there is no one outside of the engineering department within Yamaha Japan knows the differences between the different 6H4-44352 impellers. All the consumer needs to know is that part number 6H4-44352-02-00 is the latest configuration. It is the only part number that remains available today. Order either the -00, -01 or -02 and the -02 is what will be provided. -00 and -01 are no longer available. + +Hope I have not bored you with too much information." +I have a 1992 V4 115 HP outboard with two carbs. Each carb has 2 floats and 2 needle valves. I have removed and cleaned the carbs but would like to set the float height. Any idea what that spec is?,Thanks Jerry and Boscoe.,Thanks Jerry and Boscoe.,"did you ever find a solution to the alarm issue? I’m having the same issue and Cannot find someone that has a clue how to fix it. (2021 Excalibur ) + + + + + +fernetbreakfast said: + + + + Hello, + +I'm looking for any information regarding my touchscreen depth alarm interface and how to repair, upgrade, or disable (or operate, in general...) + +Without any regard to the setting, it goes off repeatedly every five minutes and then you have to clear it if you want it to stop beeping every three seconds. You can’t really use the audio without needing to attend to clearing the alarm so unless you want to sit in the seat, you gotta leave the boat off. + +There doesn’t seem to be any manual that I can find online that Avalon has yet released that details this particular system. No manual onboard - refers you online via QR code. I tried everything, but I think this needs some kind of firmware upgrade. The functionality of the panel just doesn’t make sense. If you press the button for up it won't go above 0 and once you press the button down if you want to adjust it to say 10 feet you would have to hold the button down for probably what would be 10 minutes while it counts down from 18,000. It doesn’t save after you set it, regardless. + +Anyone familiar with the issue or the system? Thanks much for taking a look, either way. + + +View attachment 26945 + +Click to expand..." +I have a 1992 V4 115 HP outboard with two carbs. Each carb has 2 floats and 2 needle valves. I have removed and cleaned the carbs but would like to set the float height. Any idea what that spec is?,"The reason I asked about the float height is because I pulled both carbs off, took apart everything I could and cleaned with choke and carb cleaner. I put them back in and retested the boat but the original problem remains, but is now a little worse in that I can't get it started without the help of a little starter spray in the carbs first. I have already replaced the fuel pump, but no difference. + +The original, and continuing, problem being that the motor runs OK at idle and low speed but when trying to get up on plane it bogs down. It doesn't stall out but keeps surging until the throttle is returned to a lower setting. I don't know the rpms involved because there is no working gauge. With the boat out of the water and running at or just above idle on a garden hose with muffs, I removed the spark plug wire on each cylinder, one at a time, and detected very little change on cylinder #4. I believe the fuel pump works off of the vacuum pulses on that same cylinder. Compression is OK on all cylinders at about 110. + +I removed the carbs again and my brother-in-law took them to a shop but they will cost about $250 each to clean and rebuild with a kit, so he declined. So I will take another look at them later this week and make sure the float level is good, but that cylinder #4 issue bothers me. Plugs are good, but I swapped plugs from #2 and #4 anyway and no change. + +Any thoughts and suggestions? Possible bad reed valve? + +Erich + +Edit: I should have previously noted that thinking the problem was bad gas, I connected a portable container with new gas directly to the motor and no change. It seems like the engine is starving for fuel at high throttle settings.","The reason I asked about the float height is because I pulled both carbs off, took apart everything I could and cleaned with choke and carb cleaner. I put them back in and retested the boat but the original problem remains, but is now a little worse in that I can't get it started without the help of a little starter spray in the carbs first. I have already replaced the fuel pump, but no difference. + +The original, and continuing, problem being that the motor runs OK at idle and low speed but when trying to get up on plane it bogs down. It doesn't stall out but keeps surging until the throttle is returned to a lower setting. I don't know the rpms involved because there is no working gauge. With the boat out of the water and running at or just above idle on a garden hose with muffs, I removed the spark plug wire on each cylinder, one at a time, and detected very little change on cylinder #4. I believe the fuel pump works off of the vacuum pulses on that same cylinder. Compression is OK on all cylinders at about 110. + +I removed the carbs again and my brother-in-law took them to a shop but they will cost about $250 each to clean and rebuild with a kit, so he declined. So I will take another look at them later this week and make sure the float level is good, but that cylinder #4 issue bothers me. Plugs are good, but I swapped plugs from #2 and #4 anyway and no change. + +Any thoughts and suggestions? Possible bad reed valve? + +Erich + +Edit: I should have previously noted that thinking the problem was bad gas, I connected a portable container with new gas directly to the motor and no change. It seems like the engine is starving for fuel at high throttle settings.","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,..... Black wires are most likely/ should be Grounds,..... + +Click to expand... + + + +The small one by the ignition module was, however in not sure about the cream colored one near cylinder number 2 + +Got it fired up + +Now for the gimble bearing and bellows then if to the lake + +The bilge pump works, but I need to check out the blower if i can find it, there is a switch for it" +I have a 1992 V4 115 HP outboard with two carbs. Each carb has 2 floats and 2 needle valves. I have removed and cleaned the carbs but would like to set the float height. Any idea what that spec is?,"erich said: + + + + The reason I asked about the float height is because I pulled both carbs off, took apart everything I could and cleaned with choke and carb cleaner. I put them back in and retested the boat but the original problem remains, but is now a little worse in that I can't get it started without the help of a little starter spray in the carbs first. I have already replaced the fuel pump, but no difference. + +The original, and continuing, problem being that the motor runs OK at idle and low speed but when trying to get up on plane it bogs down. It doesn't stall out but keeps surging until the throttle is returned to a lower setting. I don't know the rpms involved because there is no working gauge. With the boat out of the water and running at or just above idle on a garden hose with muffs, I removed the spark plug wire on each cylinder, one at a time, and detected very little change on cylinder #4. I believe the fuel pump works off of the vacuum pulses on that same cylinder. Compression is OK on all cylinders at about 110. + +I removed the carbs again and my brother-in-law took them to a shop but they will cost about $250 each to clean and rebuild with a kit, so he declined. So I will take another look at them later this week and make sure the float level is good, but that cylinder #4 issue bothers me. Plugs are good, but I swapped plugs from #2 and #4 anyway and no change. + +Any thoughts and suggestions? Possible bad reed valve? + +Erich + +Edit: I should have previously noted that thinking the problem was bad gas, I connected a portable container with new gas directly to the motor and no change. It seems like the engine is starving for fuel at high throttle settings. + +Click to expand... + + +Did you ever fix this problem? I have a 96 115txru 2 stroke yam with the exact problem right now. Any help in direction would b great.... missing the blue.....","erich said: + + + + The reason I asked about the float height is because I pulled both carbs off, took apart everything I could and cleaned with choke and carb cleaner. I put them back in and retested the boat but the original problem remains, but is now a little worse in that I can't get it started without the help of a little starter spray in the carbs first. I have already replaced the fuel pump, but no difference. + +The original, and continuing, problem being that the motor runs OK at idle and low speed but when trying to get up on plane it bogs down. It doesn't stall out but keeps surging until the throttle is returned to a lower setting. I don't know the rpms involved because there is no working gauge. With the boat out of the water and running at or just above idle on a garden hose with muffs, I removed the spark plug wire on each cylinder, one at a time, and detected very little change on cylinder #4. I believe the fuel pump works off of the vacuum pulses on that same cylinder. Compression is OK on all cylinders at about 110. + +I removed the carbs again and my brother-in-law took them to a shop but they will cost about $250 each to clean and rebuild with a kit, so he declined. So I will take another look at them later this week and make sure the float level is good, but that cylinder #4 issue bothers me. Plugs are good, but I swapped plugs from #2 and #4 anyway and no change. + +Any thoughts and suggestions? Possible bad reed valve? + +Erich + +Edit: I should have previously noted that thinking the problem was bad gas, I connected a portable container with new gas directly to the motor and no change. It seems like the engine is starving for fuel at high throttle settings. + +Click to expand... + + +Did you ever fix this problem? I have a 96 115txru 2 stroke yam with the exact problem right now. Any help in direction would b great.... missing the blue.....","If it's 40 at key-on, that's a bit low. And if it was 48 while idling, that's definitely too high. The pressure regulator might be stuck." +I have a 1992 V4 115 HP outboard with two carbs. Each carb has 2 floats and 2 needle valves. I have removed and cleaned the carbs but would like to set the float height. Any idea what that spec is?,"Suggest you start your own thread with details on the motor, symptoms on what it's doing or not and some history. Maybe then we can help you.","Suggest you start your own thread with details on the motor, symptoms on what it's doing or not and some history. Maybe then we can help you.","o2batsea said: + + + + Just as FYI, those tube type rims aren't doing you any favors. The chances for a flat are very much higher with that type of wheel. I urge that you find a set of regular old tubeless 13 inch wheels and tires and put those on. +The stub axles will be something standard like 3/4 or 1 and new hubs are cheap. Safety first, authenticity only if you must. + +Click to expand... + + Great advice, 02batsea, thank you.. I put new tires (Carlisle) and tubes (Firestone) on the new rims I bought, and I installed new bearings (Timken) and races, so I should be alright for now.. But I realize tires with tubes inside do run slightly hotter temperature on the road.. And the smaller diameter (9 inch) wheel turns a lot more revolutions per mile, so the tires and bearings do see additional wear and tear.. I am assuming the reason such small wheels used to be commonly used was so the height of the ""bunk"" the boat rides on would sit that much lower during launching / loading but I would prefer to have the pontoons ride higher off the pavement.. I am thinking that instead of re-engineering this trailer I now have I would be much better off to buy a new trailer .. This one I have is just not a good design in the first place. I think selling it will not be a problem, because it is alright for someone who lives on a lake and just wants to pull his boat out of the water.. A tandem axle with ""cradles"" for the pontoon tubes to ride on is the way to go for me.. Much more stability and obviously safer for the boat.. This is my first time owning a pontoon boat, so I am definitely learning as I go.. + Thanks again SeaHawk53" +"Just rebuilt the carbs on this motor and would like to know what the starting point would be on a cold engine.. +25-two stroke yamaha. Could not check the old screws before dis-mantle, as they were broken off..","tcfeet said: + + + + Just rebuilt the carbs on this motor and would like to know what the starting point would be on a cold engine.. +25-two stroke yamaha. Could not check the old screws before dis-mantle, as they were broken off.. + +Click to expand... + + +if its the air screws its usually 1.5 turns out from lightly seated,","tcfeet said: + + + + Just rebuilt the carbs on this motor and would like to know what the starting point would be on a cold engine.. +25-two stroke yamaha. Could not check the old screws before dis-mantle, as they were broken off.. + +Click to expand... + + +if its the air screws its usually 1.5 turns out from lightly seated,","You post perked my interest because I have never seen one of these engines. Consequently, I did some Internet searches. Below is one site from someone who apparently works on and sells these engines. Hope this helps. + +http://www.theoldglassboats.com/index.php?topic=225.0" +"Just rebuilt the carbs on this motor and would like to know what the starting point would be on a cold engine.. +25-two stroke yamaha. Could not check the old screws before dis-mantle, as they were broken off..","Thank you, it is the low speed air screw.","Thank you, it is the low speed air screw.","Thanks for all of your help boscoe! + +I connected my Lowrance Elite Ti and motor to a NMEA 200 network I created. I used the Yamaha NMEA connection cable from Lowrance. +All worked out great! + + Initial data includes: Engine temp; RPM; Hours; Volts. + +I need to work with the FF more to see if any additional data can be had. Very satisfied with the results. + +Thanks again!" +"Hello everyone, I'm having some issues with my 2013 60hp Yamaha. it has been in the shop before and I have talked to numerous mechanics and they cannot seem to find the problem. The motor will run great for the first few hours or two, but then all of a sudden it was start to spit and sputter and eventually just choke up and shut off. Once it shuts off, it will turn back over and attempt to crank up but will choke out every time without cranking back up. Usually it takes about 30 minutes or so for it to crank back up and then it will run like a champ for hours on end. There is no real pattern to when/how it is doing what it is doing so it's hard for me to explain it other then how I have. If anyone has any tips or suggestions I would greatly appreciate it, this problem has been driving me crazy!","Attach a fuel pressure gauge and run it until the event happens. Have a spark tester on hand to. + +Do this test yourself and post the results.","Attach a fuel pressure gauge and run it until the event happens. Have a spark tester on hand to. + +Do this test yourself and post the results.","Just check operating temp....if too hot or cold, then consider a thermostat problem. Got an infrared gun?.....almost unlimited uses. Should run between 145 and 150 f." +"I want to replace the prop I have on my Yamaha motor. I want to increase the speed if I can. What prop pitch would be good for more speed, with out causing problems to the engine. I'm sticking to the 3 blade.","Way more info required. Type/size of boat, current prop diameter and pitch, current rpm's at WOT, engine height etc. Then you can start looking at changes to the prop.","Way more info required. Type/size of boat, current prop diameter and pitch, current rpm's at WOT, engine height etc. Then you can start looking at changes to the prop.",Cheers mate any idea how long that would take? Can i do it on the trailer or would i need to mix a tank up and do it on water? +"New owner of 07 F150. Engine ran bad. Drained the fuel tank, replaced the fuel/water separator and canister filter . Removed the injectors had the flow tested , cleaned . Engine ran 90% better , but still stumbled at around 4000rpm. Any suggestions ?","I just bought a used G3 with a 2007 60hp Yamaha. The thing turns right over and purrs like a kitten but when I open it all the way up on the lake it starts to skip a little. The boat had about 1/4 tank of fuel in it when I bought it. The guy took great care of it. It always had and annual service. The thing looked brand new when we took the cover off. Whenever I've fueled it I put use the Ethanol free gasoline and add 2oz. of marine Stabil. + +Is that about the same as what your was doing? Could it just be old gasoline from the previous owner? Ultimately what all did you do to cure it? + +Thanks!","I just bought a used G3 with a 2007 60hp Yamaha. The thing turns right over and purrs like a kitten but when I open it all the way up on the lake it starts to skip a little. The boat had about 1/4 tank of fuel in it when I bought it. The guy took great care of it. It always had and annual service. The thing looked brand new when we took the cover off. Whenever I've fueled it I put use the Ethanol free gasoline and add 2oz. of marine Stabil. + +Is that about the same as what your was doing? Could it just be old gasoline from the previous owner? Ultimately what all did you do to cure it? + +Thanks!","I paint, spread sand. When the paint is dry I remove excess sand and paint again to seal in sand." +"25 ESH Yamaha.. + The stems on both carbs got broke off and I need to replace them. What is the best way +to get the rest of the screw out that was left in the carb ? + I backed them out almost flush with surface with some ""picks""but they won't move anymore. +The stem and hole is around 1/8"" inch, so there is not much to play with.. + Need some help or what will work as I did not to spring for new carbs.......... +Thanks","Hello tcfeet, + +Hope you are good. + +After reading your post, I will be help for your problem, I just give you suggestion for your 25 ESH Yamaha stems will be fixed or repair easily with help of repair loader + +Thanks","Hello tcfeet, + +Hope you are good. + +After reading your post, I will be help for your problem, I just give you suggestion for your 25 ESH Yamaha stems will be fixed or repair easily with help of repair loader + +Thanks",Need to do a fuel system pressure check. If fuel pressure is to specifications then I would have someone mist some gasoline into the intake when it starts to bog down. If it picks up and runs I would suspect the fuel injectors need to be cleaned. +"25 ESH Yamaha.. + The stems on both carbs got broke off and I need to replace them. What is the best way +to get the rest of the screw out that was left in the carb ? + I backed them out almost flush with surface with some ""picks""but they won't move anymore. +The stem and hole is around 1/8"" inch, so there is not much to play with.. + Need some help or what will work as I did not to spring for new carbs.......... +Thanks","Ok, I got that sucker out..","Ok, I got that sucker out..",if the surface aint clean you are wasting money... +"25 ESH Yamaha.. + The stems on both carbs got broke off and I need to replace them. What is the best way +to get the rest of the screw out that was left in the carb ? + I backed them out almost flush with surface with some ""picks""but they won't move anymore. +The stem and hole is around 1/8"" inch, so there is not much to play with.. + Need some help or what will work as I did not to spring for new carbs.......... +Thanks","Ok, You can easily download all the boat service manual and repair manual. Repair loader is best for manuals.","Ok, You can easily download all the boat service manual and repair manual. Repair loader is best for manuals.","Hey guys.... + +17 people have read this thread and no one has an opinion? Tell me what you think? Good or bad? Let me know." +"25 ESH Yamaha.. + The stems on both carbs got broke off and I need to replace them. What is the best way +to get the rest of the screw out that was left in the carb ? + I backed them out almost flush with surface with some ""picks""but they won't move anymore. +The stem and hole is around 1/8"" inch, so there is not much to play with.. + Need some help or what will work as I did not to spring for new carbs.......... +Thanks","Sorry Wendell, but I don't do downloads......","Sorry Wendell, but I don't do downloads......",https://thmarinesupplies.com/products/cmc-pt-35-tilt-and-trim-for-up-to-35-hp +"Hello! I am looking at purchasing a Yamaha outboard from a local auction and I would like some advice. + +My big hold up is that the motor had fallen over and has been damaged. It was working prior to it being taken out of service but we are unsure if she is still working. + +Here is a link to an album of pictures of the motor: http://imgur.com/a/1a1cW + +Do you think I should avoid this motor? There appears to be an oil leak, is it likely that the damage is serious and will be a costly repair? + +What should I look for when I go to look it over? + +What price would you pay for her? + + +Thanks for any help you can provide!! + +Regards, +Alex",.37 cents x what it weighs in #s = price I would pay. That is what scrap aluminum is going for by me. There is a lot of cosmetic damage to that motor I also don't see the controls. Unless it runs the day you buy it consider it non running scrap. If you are going to sell it for parts that's different then you can pay more. If it's your personal motor err on the side of caution because you will be footing the bill for the repairs.,.37 cents x what it weighs in #s = price I would pay. That is what scrap aluminum is going for by me. There is a lot of cosmetic damage to that motor I also don't see the controls. Unless it runs the day you buy it consider it non running scrap. If you are going to sell it for parts that's different then you can pay more. If it's your personal motor err on the side of caution because you will be footing the bill for the repairs.,"Agree with the muffs needing tight seal...you shud have to put a little muscle into sliding ears on. Yam 4 strokes are notorious for weak t/t stream. Assuming your alarm systems are in check, you're engine will let you know when there's a problem. So long as no high temp alarm, no worries." +"Hello! I am looking at purchasing a Yamaha outboard from a local auction and I would like some advice. + +My big hold up is that the motor had fallen over and has been damaged. It was working prior to it being taken out of service but we are unsure if she is still working. + +Here is a link to an album of pictures of the motor: http://imgur.com/a/1a1cW + +Do you think I should avoid this motor? There appears to be an oil leak, is it likely that the damage is serious and will be a costly repair? + +What should I look for when I go to look it over? + +What price would you pay for her? + + +Thanks for any help you can provide!! + +Regards, +Alex",Stay away.,Stay away.,Just take your time going through it you dont want a wire fire out on the water no where to run. Wiring is relatively cheap but can be time consuming if done properly. Fuse everything! +"Hello! I am looking at purchasing a Yamaha outboard from a local auction and I would like some advice. + +My big hold up is that the motor had fallen over and has been damaged. It was working prior to it being taken out of service but we are unsure if she is still working. + +Here is a link to an album of pictures of the motor: http://imgur.com/a/1a1cW + +Do you think I should avoid this motor? There appears to be an oil leak, is it likely that the damage is serious and will be a costly repair? + +What should I look for when I go to look it over? + +What price would you pay for her? + + +Thanks for any help you can provide!! + +Regards, +Alex","I will buy your damaged Yamaha 150 HP outboard motor, Send me private message or you can repair also your outboard Here is the link: Repair Loader + +You can easily download or do it yourself. + +Thanks","I will buy your damaged Yamaha 150 HP outboard motor, Send me private message or you can repair also your outboard Here is the link: Repair Loader + +You can easily download or do it yourself. + +Thanks","Thanks ClassicAQ. + +I don't have a meter, and if heating up is the source of the problem I'd have to test it hot. In the meantime, I figured there are two tests I can do after the motor starts sputtering. + +One is to bypass the fuel pump and hoist the fuel tank above the level of the motor. +The second is to hose down the fuel pump with water till it's cool (I guess the new fuel pumps are water cooled to avoid vapor lock). + +Hope to try them next time I'm in the water. Thanks again!" +"Hello! I am looking at purchasing a Yamaha outboard from a local auction and I would like some advice. + +My big hold up is that the motor had fallen over and has been damaged. It was working prior to it being taken out of service but we are unsure if she is still working. + +Here is a link to an album of pictures of the motor: http://imgur.com/a/1a1cW + +Do you think I should avoid this motor? There appears to be an oil leak, is it likely that the damage is serious and will be a costly repair? + +What should I look for when I go to look it over? + +What price would you pay for her? + + +Thanks for any help you can provide!! + +Regards, +Alex",tell us wendell........where are you located at ??,tell us wendell........where are you located at ??,"Clean plug means no spark to that plug.---Or no fuel / too much fuel.-----Or no crankcase compression on that cylinder.------A V-6 runs very well on 5 cylinders.----Does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or more on all leads , yes or no." +"Hello! I am looking at purchasing a Yamaha outboard from a local auction and I would like some advice. + +My big hold up is that the motor had fallen over and has been damaged. It was working prior to it being taken out of service but we are unsure if she is still working. + +Here is a link to an album of pictures of the motor: http://imgur.com/a/1a1cW + +Do you think I should avoid this motor? There appears to be an oil leak, is it likely that the damage is serious and will be a costly repair? + +What should I look for when I go to look it over? + +What price would you pay for her? + + +Thanks for any help you can provide!! + +Regards, +Alex","This motor was not even "" sold "" on a site.---------But already listed elsewhere for $4900 by someone ??????","This motor was not even "" sold "" on a site.---------But already listed elsewhere for $4900 by someone ??????","*Update* +Got my DVA out and tested the system as per spec at crank w/ fresh battery. The CDI and Coil were in spec but the Pulser - ""Trigger"" was firing at 1.45-1.85v on each lead. Spec is 3.0 at cranking which calls for replacement. Will replace and report findings when installed, unfortunately I have to wait for the part so it could be a few days." +"Hello! I am looking at purchasing a Yamaha outboard from a local auction and I would like some advice. + +My big hold up is that the motor had fallen over and has been damaged. It was working prior to it being taken out of service but we are unsure if she is still working. + +Here is a link to an album of pictures of the motor: http://imgur.com/a/1a1cW + +Do you think I should avoid this motor? There appears to be an oil leak, is it likely that the damage is serious and will be a costly repair? + +What should I look for when I go to look it over? + +What price would you pay for her? + + +Thanks for any help you can provide!! + +Regards, +Alex","Hello Crankbait, + +I live in Sunnyvale, CA + +Are you check repair loader site. There are repair manual of your Yamaha 150 HP","Hello Crankbait, + +I live in Sunnyvale, CA + +Are you check repair loader site. There are repair manual of your Yamaha 150 HP","Unless its a 'smart charger', staying plugged in usually shortens battery life..... + +cheap ones usually go 3-5 years.....brand names about double that.....with proper maintenance in a decent installation...." +"I have 3 cylinders scored all on the same side of the v6 block. The hp pump has an equalizing pipe between the two sides so one side of that pump would not cause, correct? Could it be oil pump? Lack of cooling on that side of block? What would be the common thread to cause all cylinders on one side to fail? Thanks in advance.",I have seen the mechanical fuel pumps bust a diaphragm and wash down a couple of cylinder but not all three. Are they scuffed 360 around or only on intake or exhaust side ?,I have seen the mechanical fuel pumps bust a diaphragm and wash down a couple of cylinder but not all three. Are they scuffed 360 around or only on intake or exhaust side ?,The voltage applied by the CDI assembly to the primary side of the coil is 95 ~ 190 volts. But only for a nanosecond. +"I have 3 cylinders scored all on the same side of the v6 block. The hp pump has an equalizing pipe between the two sides so one side of that pump would not cause, correct? Could it be oil pump? Lack of cooling on that side of block? What would be the common thread to cause all cylinders on one side to fail? Thanks in advance.","Pretty much 360. Just trying to find what is common to all 3 that would make them burn up, whereas the other side of the engine is ok.","Pretty much 360. Just trying to find what is common to all 3 that would make them burn up, whereas the other side of the engine is ok.","Well, you've learned to never run an engine without the impeller submerged in water or the engine hooked up to a set of earmuffs and a hose. When it comes to ""pee-hole"" issues.. Nothing beats running the engine with a set of muffs on it or sunk in a trash can and then feeding some common ""weed-wacker"" nylon trimming line up through that pee-hole to clear clogs. Works far better and goes much further than wire, pins, paperclips, and whatever else people think about shoving up that little pee-hole." +"I have 3 cylinders scored all on the same side of the v6 block. The hp pump has an equalizing pipe between the two sides so one side of that pump would not cause, correct? Could it be oil pump? Lack of cooling on that side of block? What would be the common thread to cause all cylinders on one side to fail? Thanks in advance.",Are all three on the port side? Check the fuel pumps as suggested.,Are all three on the port side? Check the fuel pumps as suggested.,Carbureted or fuel injected? +"I have 3 cylinders scored all on the same side of the v6 block. The hp pump has an equalizing pipe between the two sides so one side of that pump would not cause, correct? Could it be oil pump? Lack of cooling on that side of block? What would be the common thread to cause all cylinders on one side to fail? Thanks in advance.",Yes all 3 on port side. I am rebuilding both mechanical (lp) pumps and having the dual hp fuel pump rebuilt. Block is being bored. Just trying to diagnose so I know what to watch for.,Yes all 3 on port side. I am rebuilding both mechanical (lp) pumps and having the dual hp fuel pump rebuilt. Block is being bored. Just trying to diagnose so I know what to watch for.,"Thanks for the ideas. I re-cleaned the carb and went a bit deeper-- disassembled everything. +Reset retaining clip on main jet needle to run richer. She's purrin' now. +By the way all you lucky Yammy 2HP people -- that single ""pilot screw"" on the left of the carburator adjusts how far down the throttle valve and main jet needle sits at minimum throttle. It is sort of a ""stop"" so you don't kill the engine when you set the throttle at its lowest point." +"Would some one be willing to tell me what parts I need to get fuel management gauges & senders for my motors? + +one is a 2002 +one is a 2006 + +i realize they are worlds apart, but I'm excited to be part of the family now. :rolleyes:","wow, surprised that I really got no help in two weeks. + +Thanks anyway, I now own these motors. I hope I didn't make a mistake after reading all the negative posts about these motors. A far cry from my Honda BF150's from my other boat.","wow, surprised that I really got no help in two weeks. + +Thanks anyway, I now own these motors. I hope I didn't make a mistake after reading all the negative posts about these motors. A far cry from my Honda BF150's from my other boat.","Klink said: + + + + All True. Knowing what my speed is, is not really of importance to me, I just wanted the gauge to show something other than 00. (and I wanted to conquer the problem!) + +I do not have a GPS, never needed it for where I went for 45 years saltwater fishing (South Florida), since I knew it like the back of my hand and GPS ruined my secret fishing spots by making them easy to find again by any novice that saw me there. People would actually drive right up to me and take the GPS coordinates! + + However, now I have moved to Central Florida, and I'll be dead before the 45 years I need to have the same knowledge of the area, so sooner or later I will have to get GPS. + +Thanks for the response. + +Click to expand... + + +If you have a smart phone there are numerous free speedometer apps to choose from to download. The apps are as accurate as GPS speed, since the app uses the smart phones internal GPS." +"Would some one be willing to tell me what parts I need to get fuel management gauges & senders for my motors? + +one is a 2002 +one is a 2006 + +i realize they are worlds apart, but I'm excited to be part of the family now. :rolleyes:",http://yamahaoutboards.com/Marine_Rigging_Parts_Catalog/#71/z,http://yamahaoutboards.com/Marine_Rigging_Parts_Catalog/#71/z,I pulled plugs and the third cylinder is not burning properly. Thought maybe weak fire. Pulling one wire at a time rpm drops about same no matter which wire I pull. The top cylinder seems to have more fire as I get a “bite” when I pull that wire compared to middle and bottom cylinders. Do could ever just get weak? Simply way to test? +"Would some one be willing to tell me what parts I need to get fuel management gauges & senders for my motors? + +one is a 2002 +one is a 2006 + +i realize they are worlds apart, but I'm excited to be part of the family now. :rolleyes:",Thank you for that link.,Thank you for that link.,"If the gouges are just in the gel coat, you can fill them with fairing compound and then do the last layer in gel coat. Some look a bit deeper. + +For the star, you can do as planned or grind the whole thing out and build it back up with a few layers of cloth, depending upon how deep it goes. + +There are LOTs of 'how to' articles on many marine www sites. Probably plenty of books at the local library, too. Final thought - many of the ""epoxy makers"" have how-to's on their www sites - think West systems has the basic with the detailed steps in a book." +"I am not familiar with Yamaha models and have not had much luck from internet searches + +On a local fishing website saw a boat for sale. The engine is described as, '99 150 yamaha vmax trp + +I don't know if it is injected, carbed, oiling method, 2 or 4 stroke cycle, or if counter rotating props. Pictures show the upper engine but not lower unit. + +This is a Gulf Coast saltwater engine. + +the hours are not listed and is garage kept. Wanted some input before making an inquiry. + +Any comments on the this engine in terms of reliability, economy, maintenace concerns, inspection tips, etc will be appreciated. + +thanks Mike","From reported year, it should be 2-cycle. There was a recent thread on THT dealing with this topic: +http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/733313-yahama-nomenclature.html#post8693366 + +I have a 1991 90TLRP and it's as bullet proof as they come. +Has been neglected and abused in salt water for 25 years. +Art","From reported year, it should be 2-cycle. There was a recent thread on THT dealing with this topic: +http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/733313-yahama-nomenclature.html#post8693366 + +I have a 1991 90TLRP and it's as bullet proof as they come. +Has been neglected and abused in salt water for 25 years. +Art",Try the oil pressure switches next.. +I have a 2015 9.9 pullstart motor with manual trim. The manual trim is very inconvenient to try to deal with out on the water and I was wondering if anybody has any aftermarket ideas to make it easier to trim out on the water.,CMC makes an aftermarket tilt and trim unit you would need the pt 30. But it's pricey,CMC makes an aftermarket tilt and trim unit you would need the pt 30. But it's pricey,Most 2 strokes do not run well with a hole in the crankcase.------But are you talking about the gearcase / propeller area.-------Drain holes are normal there.----So post pictures so we talk the same lingo. +"Looking to solve this issue, anyone had similar issue? +Is it cable adjustment or possibly the shift cut control system that I am reading about in the service manual? +I'm not sure what rpm I,m idling at but it doesn't appear to be high. +Thanks",Are you easing it into gear ??-----------An outboard should be shifted with a quick firm motion to avoid this grinding.,Are you easing it into gear ??-----------An outboard should be shifted with a quick firm motion to avoid this grinding.,Understood. I need to get a hold of that Manual and information. The one I currently have is SELOC Edit has a wide range of mercury and Yamaha. Thanks for your input And guidance +"Looking to solve this issue, anyone had similar issue? +Is it cable adjustment or possibly the shift cut control system that I am reading about in the service manual? +I'm not sure what rpm I,m idling at but it doesn't appear to be high. +Thanks","racerone said: + + + + Are you easing it into gear ??-----------An outboard should be shifted with a quick firm motion to avoid this grinding. + +Click to expand... + + +Appreciate the reply, I'm not operating this boat any different than my Carolina skiff w/ a 60 hp Yami and it doesn't grind like the 150 if it grinds at all","racerone said: + + + + Are you easing it into gear ??-----------An outboard should be shifted with a quick firm motion to avoid this grinding. + +Click to expand... + + +Appreciate the reply, I'm not operating this boat any different than my Carolina skiff w/ a 60 hp Yami and it doesn't grind like the 150 if it grinds at all","Use a permanent felt marker of a contrasting color , Or get a white UNI PAINT OPAQUE OIL BASED MARKER PX20 made by mitsubishi pencil. when dry will not come off" +"Looking to solve this issue, anyone had similar issue? +Is it cable adjustment or possibly the shift cut control system that I am reading about in the service manual? +I'm not sure what rpm I,m idling at but it doesn't appear to be high. +Thanks","Appreciate the reply, I'm not operating this boat any different than my Carolina skiff w/ a 60 hp Yami and it doesn't grind like the 150 if it grinds at all","Appreciate the reply, I'm not operating this boat any different than my Carolina skiff w/ a 60 hp Yami and it doesn't grind like the 150 if it grinds at all","Thanks for the reply, mine seems to be set up as yours. The drain connects in the bottom of the livewell and has a small PVC pipe with the rubber insert looks to work as an over flow. The intake is set high on the side with a 90 degree connector to spray water to fill. I guess I could install a small pump inside to circulate the water. The bilge hose I see on line looks like cheap plastic material just want to be sure to use something that lasts as it looks like it's going to be a chore to pull the new in as I pull the old out." +"Advice, +I have got a 40 hp Yamaha with jet drive. Slung a rod. Would the best option be to order new parts and repair it or maybe buy a used power head or maybe buy a used engine and swap the jet drive? Is the Yamaha lower unit bolt pattern and fit compatible with any other outboard?","A year ago I bought a 1992 40/28 2 stroke. It's been working great so far. Did the oil injection fail, what caused it to throw a rod?","A year ago I bought a 1992 40/28 2 stroke. It's been working great so far. Did the oil injection fail, what caused it to throw a rod?",????? +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",good new gas?.....put an inductive timing light in the boat and decide if it is a fire or fuel problem at the point of failure....,good new gas?.....put an inductive timing light in the boat and decide if it is a fire or fuel problem at the point of failure....,"john allen said: + + + + Thanks for the help + +Click to expand... + + +Ran the factory manual test for the CDI box. It completely failed the test three times. So again, Thank you John" +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","ya new fresh petrol already. +will try a timing light. +thanks","ya new fresh petrol already. +will try a timing light. +thanks","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Setting the ignition timing is pretty straightforward. No need to calculate position of piston since the markers on the wheel indicate TDC/BTDC. + +Here is a link for the service manual for your engine. Page 3-2. Follow the instructions. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...hop-manuals/382-2003-yamaha-20v-25v-25v2/file + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for that resource; however my motor, the 25M, isn't listed. I assume they are practically the same? Do you have a link for the 25M? + +I am a bit OCD when it comes to these things and want to ensure I get it all set up correctly and more so understand why it is the way it is." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",Those carbs need to be spotless when rebuilt and all the jets blown out with heaps of compressed air etc. I had two different mechanics cleans some Yamaha carbs once without fixing the problem. Wasted heaps of time looking at everything else thinking the carbs were good until I stripped and cleaned them to 'spotless condition' myself.,Those carbs need to be spotless when rebuilt and all the jets blown out with heaps of compressed air etc. I had two different mechanics cleans some Yamaha carbs once without fixing the problem. Wasted heaps of time looking at everything else thinking the carbs were good until I stripped and cleaned them to 'spotless condition' myself.,"did you ever find the answer to this? i dont have fuel spitting out anywhere, but i have the same issue of it bogging down and stalling when i put it in gear and give it some gas." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","aliboy said: + + + + Those carbs need to be spotless when rebuilt and all the jets blown out with heaps of compressed air etc. I had two different mechanics cleans some Yamaha carbs once without fixing the problem. Wasted heaps of time looking at everything else thinking the carbs were good until I stripped and cleaned them to 'spotless condition' myself. + +Click to expand... + +ya i know waht u mean. +i completly stripped the carbs myself today taking real care and attention, used plenty of carb cleaner and compressed air, +even used a stand of wire for the small holes, +still the same . when i took the plugs out there fouled and bottom one was wet, +to me its like its not burning the gas enough and seems very smokey while running,","aliboy said: + + + + Those carbs need to be spotless when rebuilt and all the jets blown out with heaps of compressed air etc. I had two different mechanics cleans some Yamaha carbs once without fixing the problem. Wasted heaps of time looking at everything else thinking the carbs were good until I stripped and cleaned them to 'spotless condition' myself. + +Click to expand... + +ya i know waht u mean. +i completly stripped the carbs myself today taking real care and attention, used plenty of carb cleaner and compressed air, +even used a stand of wire for the small holes, +still the same . when i took the plugs out there fouled and bottom one was wet, +to me its like its not burning the gas enough and seems very smokey while running,","What do you mean by 'power steering'? + +A boat that small would typically just use a cable...a hydraulic steering system would be overkill - nice but not necessary. + +I would suggest disconnecting the outboard's steering link and then try pivoting the outboard and rotate the steering wheel...one will have much resistance and the other will likely have little resistance. If it is the steering wheel that remains difficult to turn, then you likely have corrosion within the support tube, where the cable rides..." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",how much was rhe compression and how far would the spark jump?,how much was rhe compression and how far would the spark jump?,"""Thanks guys, now I just have + +""Thanks guys, now I just have to convince my wife that she will need to deal with the way it looks until it all flakes off...LOL""" +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","papyson said: + + + + how much was rhe compression and how far would the spark jump? + +Click to expand... + +can remember compression figures off hand but they were well within range and even. +just tried spark test in the dark, +seemd to be jumping about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch but to me looks weak . +same on all coils, +was going to try timming but my timming light has packed up. +if it is weak spark on all cylinders what would most likly be the cause , cdi or stator","papyson said: + + + + how much was rhe compression and how far would the spark jump? + +Click to expand... + +can remember compression figures off hand but they were well within range and even. +just tried spark test in the dark, +seemd to be jumping about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch but to me looks weak . +same on all coils, +was going to try timming but my timming light has packed up. +if it is weak spark on all cylinders what would most likly be the cause , cdi or stator","schreck425 said: + + + + I've flushed the engine with a hose after every use since I'm on saltwater. When connecting with that hose adapter is shoots the water through quite strong so that doesn't seem clogged at that point. Maybe clogged down lower? + +(Forgive my ignorance, I'm learning) + +Click to expand... + + + +You are in the wrong thread. This is my thread!" +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","you need to get a spark gap tester and the spark should jump 7/16 inch with aa good snap...testers are cheap and it is possible that your local auto supply store will have a loaner...if it is weak then use this + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/cdi_troubleshooting_guide_-_2012_1 + +troubleshooting is the way to go....unless you want a bunch of expensive spare parts + +please recheck compression and post readings....","you need to get a spark gap tester and the spark should jump 7/16 inch with aa good snap...testers are cheap and it is possible that your local auto supply store will have a loaner...if it is weak then use this + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/cdi_troubleshooting_guide_-_2012_1 + +troubleshooting is the way to go....unless you want a bunch of expensive spare parts + +please recheck compression and post readings....","Klink said: + + + + All True. Knowing what my speed is, is not really of importance to me, I just wanted the gauge to show something other than 00. (and I wanted to conquer the problem!) + +I do not have a GPS, never needed it for where I went for 45 years saltwater fishing (South Florida), since I knew it like the back of my hand and GPS ruined my secret fishing spots by making them easy to find again by any novice that saw me there. People would actually drive right up to me and take the GPS coordinates! + + However, now I have moved to Central Florida, and I'll be dead before the 45 years I need to have the same knowledge of the area, so sooner or later I will have to get GPS. + +Thanks for the response. + +Click to expand... + + +If you have a smart phone there are numerous free speedometer apps to choose from to download. The apps are as accurate as GPS speed, since the app uses the smart phones internal GPS." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","papyson said: + + + + you need to get a spark gap tester and the spark should jump 7/16 inch with aa good snap...testers are cheap and it is possible that your local auto supply store will have a loaner...if it is weak then use this + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/cdi_troubleshooting_guide_-_2012_1 + +troubleshooting is the way to go....unless you want a bunch of expensive spare parts + +please recheck compression and post readings.... + +Click to expand... + + +thanks for link mate, +rrechecked compression. +its 126 ,125, 127, +couldnt get a gap tester so made one out of a plug lead cut with a clear tube over it to see spark. +was jumping a 3/8 gap bunt too me not constant enough and not a real good snap, +tried just the plugs grounded and spark does look real weak . when turning over its jumping around the top of the electrode and very faint, iv a old 6hp evinrude 1970s and the spark is brighter. +all 3 spark the same, +will try the ohms tests but im not great with ohms, what resistants setting do i need to be on , +thanks","papyson said: + + + + you need to get a spark gap tester and the spark should jump 7/16 inch with aa good snap...testers are cheap and it is possible that your local auto supply store will have a loaner...if it is weak then use this + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/cdi_troubleshooting_guide_-_2012_1 + +troubleshooting is the way to go....unless you want a bunch of expensive spare parts + +please recheck compression and post readings.... + +Click to expand... + + +thanks for link mate, +rrechecked compression. +its 126 ,125, 127, +couldnt get a gap tester so made one out of a plug lead cut with a clear tube over it to see spark. +was jumping a 3/8 gap bunt too me not constant enough and not a real good snap, +tried just the plugs grounded and spark does look real weak . when turning over its jumping around the top of the electrode and very faint, iv a old 6hp evinrude 1970s and the spark is brighter. +all 3 spark the same, +will try the ohms tests but im not great with ohms, what resistants setting do i need to be on , +thanks","smartcar.passion said: + + + +My 2004 Yamaha 200HP 4 stroke engine won't turnover. I first thought it was the battery but I'm pretty sure now that it's not. I used heavy duty jumper cables from my running truck directly to the outboards starter. the starters gear engages the flywheel but from that point it only clicks. I pulled the spark plugs out of the engine thinking the engine might be seized up and it does exactly the same thing, just clicks...... I can rotate the flywheel easily with my hands when the spark plugs are out so I figure the inners of the engine are fine. + +Any thoughts on what the problem might be? + +thank you in advance..... + +Click to expand... + + +Been a while, but this sounds like a hydro locked motor. Mercury had a defective design on a $20 vacuum hose that they run in the fuel pump housing and it ruptures sucking fuel directly into the intake manifold flooding the lower cylinder. This locks up the motor and can destroy the starter and take a big chunk of life out of your battery as it tries to turn over this locked up motor. I suppose you could be so unlucky to have this happen when underway and locking up the cylinder could do internal damage (bent rod?). Also, your cylinder wall oil will be washed off and the excess gas will also get into your oil (ever hear of mercury 4-strokes making oil?). So watch out for this defective design. Ask me how I know. Mercury was no help at all with this and did not acknowledge the horrible design defect. They did offer to sell me a new hose at full price (it turns out its a much higher PSI rated hose than the originals that fail. duh. So anyway, hope this helps someone fix their motor if they have this problem or avoid a manufacturer that has poor designs and offers no help to customers when their defective design causes downtime and damage to the motors they sell. + +Also, if you have a 4-stroke mercury check the air filter. Mine was deteriorating so badly when I touched it the foam crumbled. There are reports of engines sucking in the foam that deteriorates on these again, poorly designed filters. They were replaced with a pricey new P/N(take advantage of a poor design needing replacement) $85 metal element filter that is what should have been there to start with. Glad I caught the air filter issue when fixing the other defect. Prior to my 2006 merc 115 4-stroke I had a reliable 1972 Johnson 50hp that had none of these horrible design issues." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",depends on the meter...perhaps you have a friend that understands and could assist...accurate readings are a must....,depends on the meter...perhaps you have a friend that understands and could assist...accurate readings are a must....,"Just guessing, but suspect that your port engine harness is not hooked up correctly. Check hook up at both ends against your starboard engine." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+To+Use+A+Multimeter/25632 + +some meters are auto ranging which means you do not have to set a ohms scale...you can probably find instructions for your meter on the web...good luck","https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+To+Use+A+Multimeter/25632 + +some meters are auto ranging which means you do not have to set a ohms scale...you can probably find instructions for your meter on the web...good luck",take that to the dump before you need a tetnus shot! look at the hole in the axle tube! +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","Make sure that engine is getting to running temp. If the cyl head water jacket gasket has a rot hole in it, the engine will never get hot and wen you shut it down it will condensate water in the combustion chamber and short the spark plug. + +If it starts and runs and idles initially, unless you have dirt before the float needle in the carb, the carbs are probably not the cause of your problem","Make sure that engine is getting to running temp. If the cyl head water jacket gasket has a rot hole in it, the engine will never get hot and wen you shut it down it will condensate water in the combustion chamber and short the spark plug. + +If it starts and runs and idles initially, unless you have dirt before the float needle in the carb, the carbs are probably not the cause of your problem","I would hook a fuel pressure gauge up first. Get the engine hot, create the no start condition and check the fuel pressure." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Make sure that engine is getting to running temp. If the cyl head water jacket gasket has a rot hole in it, the engine will never get hot and wen you shut it down it will condensate water in the combustion chamber and short the spark plug. + +If it starts and runs and idles initially, unless you have dirt before the float needle in the carb, the carbs are probably not the cause of your problem + +Click to expand... + + +ya engine seems nice and hot, +prity confident the carbs are ok, +just trying to find if it may be a stator problem on the low speed side, +thanks","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Make sure that engine is getting to running temp. If the cyl head water jacket gasket has a rot hole in it, the engine will never get hot and wen you shut it down it will condensate water in the combustion chamber and short the spark plug. + +If it starts and runs and idles initially, unless you have dirt before the float needle in the carb, the carbs are probably not the cause of your problem + +Click to expand... + + +ya engine seems nice and hot, +prity confident the carbs are ok, +just trying to find if it may be a stator problem on the low speed side, +thanks","OK I was thinking the FCC mandates channel 9 on VHS an are also operating at the same frequency as CB radios channel 9 +both are emergency channels. + +so your saying VHS usually on water won't connect w/ CB thats usually on land & CBs only connect to CB an VHS only only connects w/VHS?" +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","papyson said: + + + +https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+To+Use+A+Multimeter/25632 + +some meters are auto ranging which means you do not have to set a ohms scale...you can probably find instructions for your meter on the web...good luck + +Click to expand... + +thanks will check it out","papyson said: + + + +https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+To+Use+A+Multimeter/25632 + +some meters are auto ranging which means you do not have to set a ohms scale...you can probably find instructions for your meter on the web...good luck + +Click to expand... + +thanks will check it out",Yes I agree I live in British Colombia and we have lots of logs floating around so my HD Radar is a real help especially when there is chop and difficult to spot logs. One of my boating Buddy's broke his leg right off with a log. Good thing he never lost the rubber boot and didn`t take on water as his wife and him were alone that time and help was quite long coming. +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","hi check ohms. +stator brown to blue 304 +red to blue 222 +trigger white red t white black 303 +my trigger only has the 2 wires. +flywheel sensor 196 +all checked on ohms 2000. +engine yamaha pro 75 ceto 692 L 950406 X +THANKS","hi check ohms. +stator brown to blue 304 +red to blue 222 +trigger white red t white black 303 +my trigger only has the 2 wires. +flywheel sensor 196 +all checked on ohms 2000. +engine yamaha pro 75 ceto 692 L 950406 X +THANKS","Ayuh,.... Bayliner builds the boat, Not the driveline,.... + +So,... What's it got for Power,..?? + +Btw,.... Never seen a Plastic trim ram,..." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",''when turning over its jumping around the top of the electrode''.....don't understand that statement...hook everything up and see if you can see any fire jumping to ground at night...I would go buy or borrow a spark gap tester...they are cheap and a handy tool to have..as far as I am concerned we still don't know if it is a fuel or fire problem....if the spark is good with a tester then we know that at least at some point the fire is good...if not we need to work on fire..if it is good then we need to hook everything back up and use a timing light at time of failure...to work on fire when it is a fuel problem is a loser..and vice versa...,''when turning over its jumping around the top of the electrode''.....don't understand that statement...hook everything up and see if you can see any fire jumping to ground at night...I would go buy or borrow a spark gap tester...they are cheap and a handy tool to have..as far as I am concerned we still don't know if it is a fuel or fire problem....if the spark is good with a tester then we know that at least at some point the fire is good...if not we need to work on fire..if it is good then we need to hook everything back up and use a timing light at time of failure...to work on fire when it is a fuel problem is a loser..and vice versa...,"Is the circlip still attached to the shift rod? I suspect not but... + +I think you are going to have to pull the bearing carrier to retrieve the shift cam. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",what does cdi say the ohm readings should be?,what does cdi say the ohm readings should be?,"Look at the carburetor and the CDI assembly. Hopefully you will find 69M on either or both. + +If so, 2.5 turns out from being lightly seated is the base setting. Then plus or minus one half turn. + +If the carburetor has not been completely disassembled and cleaned in a heated ultrasonic cleaner, with all holes and passages confirmed to be free and clear, you may have been wasting your cleaning time. Also the float setting should be confirmed to be within specification as it will have an affect on the air/fuel ratio. + +How are you getting to the position where you think that it is running rich? Most Yams are set to run on the too lean side IMO. Thanks to the EPA." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","papyson said: + + + + ''when turning over its jumping around the top of the electrode''.....don't understand that statement...hook everything up and see if you can see any fire jumping to ground at night...I would go buy or borrow a spark gap tester...they are cheap and a handy tool to have..as far as I am concerned we still don't know if it is a fuel or fire problem....if the spark is good with a tester then we know that at least at some point the fire is good...if not we need to work on fire..if it is good then we need to hook everything back up and use a timing light at time of failure...to work on fire when it is a fuel problem is a loser..and vice versa... + +Click to expand... + + +try and explain it abit better, +when i have a plug in the bplug cap and earth the plug to the body there only seems a weak spark that i can see jumping on the top of the spark plug not a good straight snap of a spark, +am defo going to have to order a gap tester as it would be handy to have one cant seem to find one hady over here. +iv tried running the engine in the dark to check jumping to ground and there was none, +trying to get a lend of a timing light over the weekend as mine is broken, +i think i need the dva adaptor to get the reading for the cdi as it says need to get readings at certain rpm. +thanks for all imput mate and sorry if answers seem abit vague","papyson said: + + + + ''when turning over its jumping around the top of the electrode''.....don't understand that statement...hook everything up and see if you can see any fire jumping to ground at night...I would go buy or borrow a spark gap tester...they are cheap and a handy tool to have..as far as I am concerned we still don't know if it is a fuel or fire problem....if the spark is good with a tester then we know that at least at some point the fire is good...if not we need to work on fire..if it is good then we need to hook everything back up and use a timing light at time of failure...to work on fire when it is a fuel problem is a loser..and vice versa... + +Click to expand... + + +try and explain it abit better, +when i have a plug in the bplug cap and earth the plug to the body there only seems a weak spark that i can see jumping on the top of the spark plug not a good straight snap of a spark, +am defo going to have to order a gap tester as it would be handy to have one cant seem to find one hady over here. +iv tried running the engine in the dark to check jumping to ground and there was none, +trying to get a lend of a timing light over the weekend as mine is broken, +i think i need the dva adaptor to get the reading for the cdi as it says need to get readings at certain rpm. +thanks for all imput mate and sorry if answers seem abit vague",good....watch it close and take your finger and spread a little grease on the shaft every now and then...turn the motor where the most of the shaft is exposed to do so..for some unknown to me reason once these things lock up they require more attention from then on...not familiar with your setup but there may or may not be a grease fitting on it...if there is one there it usually is not for the steering...if you look close its for the vertical pivot point on the motor..i use the white stuff on the shaft...mental block on the name at the moment..lubri plate?...i keep a tube of it with the gun i use on buddy bearings..i dont use it every trip as i do the buddy bearings but it stares me in the face every time i get the gun to do the bearings... +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",and i am sorry if I came across a bit abrupt...but we must determine what you want to address..fuel or fire..,and i am sorry if I came across a bit abrupt...but we must determine what you want to address..fuel or fire..,used on almost all boats due to the length of the wires from the helm to the motor +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","papyson said: + + + + and i am sorry if I came across a bit abrupt...but we must determine what you want to address..fuel or fire.. + +Click to expand... + +Not at all mate . Thanks for all ur help . +its not easy to try explain and the it works vice versa when answering +I'm prity sure its a fire problem as I've been threw the fuel system +and all seem OK . Even tried a good fuel pump +thanks","papyson said: + + + + and i am sorry if I came across a bit abrupt...but we must determine what you want to address..fuel or fire.. + +Click to expand... + +Not at all mate . Thanks for all ur help . +its not easy to try explain and the it works vice versa when answering +I'm prity sure its a fire problem as I've been threw the fuel system +and all seem OK . Even tried a good fuel pump +thanks","Thanks for the replys. Only thing going in is the crapper It seems when I shut the overboard valve, took the handle off. Things did get better. Coast Guard said as long as the handle was off the overboard sea cock, I was okay. Again thanks everyone. Be Safe stay warm." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",........,........,Yamaha Customer Service at (866) 894-1626. +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","well before i go ordering bits i decided to once more look at the electrics, +was checking out the coils, +took them off and tried to get a reading top one i got a read off but the bottom and middle i couldnt get anything +unscrewed the plug caps there the orange resistor type, and put the meter from the screw were the wire goes and the other side were the plug goes, +top one reads 5.32, middle couldnt get a reading and bottom i couldnt get a reading. +would it be possible the plug caps are gone bad and causing this,","well before i go ordering bits i decided to once more look at the electrics, +was checking out the coils, +took them off and tried to get a reading top one i got a read off but the bottom and middle i couldnt get anything +unscrewed the plug caps there the orange resistor type, and put the meter from the screw were the wire goes and the other side were the plug goes, +top one reads 5.32, middle couldnt get a reading and bottom i couldnt get a reading. +would it be possible the plug caps are gone bad and causing this,","I had the same issue. Check the timing with an inductive light, does the spark jump? Number 3 will fire on #2 and visa versa? Turned out to be a rectifier issue." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",\\yes,\\yes,Hour meters are still a good idea for tracking usage per trip and maintenance intervals. Not sure how you will work the parrallel wiring to the hour meters. +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","tried changing the plug caps, +still running the same. +spark still seems weak ,","tried changing the plug caps, +still running the same. +spark still seems weak ,","Agree with Kim, but try to find a chapter of Sea Scouts to see if they will take it." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","rodey said: + + + + tried changing the plug caps, +still running the same. +spark still seems weak , + +Click to expand... + + +I have yet to see a yamaha with strong spark while cranking.","rodey said: + + + + tried changing the plug caps, +still running the same. +spark still seems weak , + +Click to expand... + + +I have yet to see a yamaha with strong spark while cranking.","Tegweni said: + + + + When the piston comes down is what the designers took into consideration with this system of feeding oil into the inlet manifold and oil air and fuel mix after the carb throttle plate and before the reed valves, you cannot have any opposing pressure in the system and that's why they put check valves in + +Click to expand... + + +Can it be so that the reason for the four small oil check valves is to block for the pressure build up that the they are exposed to before the reed valves closes fully, the flow that goes reverse into the oil hoses due to the ""slow reaction time"" of the reed valve? + +I mean, how large of a pressure are the hoses and check valves designed for to withstand, the hose and clamps are just slid on?" +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",is the problem still just a idle or low speed one?...runs well and on all cylinders at higher rpm?....has this motor been used on a regular basis or has it set up for a while?,is the problem still just a idle or low speed one?...runs well and on all cylinders at higher rpm?....has this motor been used on a regular basis or has it set up for a while?,"villtur said: + + + + But remember that your motor, or any motor for that matter, has only so many hphours. If you get more hp out of it then it's life will get shorter. + +Click to expand... + +Yes. that is part of the truth even if it were tuning programming, but in this case I just rewrite the program inside the ECU from original F60 to F50. This is the same as buy a new ECU. + +It can also be transcribed from F50 to F60, but whether it is someone like it" +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","papyson said: + + + + is the problem still just a idle or low speed one?...runs well and on all cylinders at higher rpm?....has this motor been used on a regular basis or has it set up for a while? + +Click to expand... + +Runs very rough at idle and under say 2000rpm +veey hard to take off in gear at slow speed most of the time the engine will stall +once u get past the 2000 rpm it seem to run fine . +Also very hard to start once u run for say 10 mins . Stop and try to start again it always have to have the revs up .","papyson said: + + + + is the problem still just a idle or low speed one?...runs well and on all cylinders at higher rpm?....has this motor been used on a regular basis or has it set up for a while? + +Click to expand... + +Runs very rough at idle and under say 2000rpm +veey hard to take off in gear at slow speed most of the time the engine will stall +once u get past the 2000 rpm it seem to run fine . +Also very hard to start once u run for say 10 mins . Stop and try to start again it always have to have the revs up .","crankbait said: + + + + do your friends know about the damage ?? are they ok with you doing the repair ?? I take it no one wants the insurance company involved ?? + +Click to expand... + + +yes and sort of, im trying to convince them its possible DIY. Haven't asked about insurance....I need to know is this possible to repair, is it structural, what difficulties will I encounter. examples of botched jobs? thx" +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","right so my mate had a guy come today , +the spark now jumps good and bright , will jump half inch no problem. +when i got over to him we started the engine up ran it for a while, +stopped it let it sit for 5 mins, +engine wouldnt start again, +back to the same really hard to start had to give it a lot of trottle, +once started u could hear the cylinders jumping in and out, +got a proper spark tester and spark is jumping very good with a good crack to it, +thing is driving him nuts, +the guy who looked at it was a electric engineer and found a bad wire so replaced it,","right so my mate had a guy come today , +the spark now jumps good and bright , will jump half inch no problem. +when i got over to him we started the engine up ran it for a while, +stopped it let it sit for 5 mins, +engine wouldnt start again, +back to the same really hard to start had to give it a lot of trottle, +once started u could hear the cylinders jumping in and out, +got a proper spark tester and spark is jumping very good with a good crack to it, +thing is driving him nuts, +the guy who looked at it was a electric engineer and found a bad wire so replaced it,","trouble shoot for symptoms first before spending.does engine get wide open throttle,top rpms,proper horsepower for hullweight,length,type of hull,engine height installed correct,even with keel on bottom of hull, Just for starters......THERE IS A FORUM ON THIS WEBSITE ADDRESSING YOUR THREAD, TOP OF PAGE" +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,","wel finally i think were getting somwhere , +spark is now sorted +narrowed down the jumping in and out of the cylinders to the fuel enricher on the 2nd carb, +diaphram is split so must be flooding the cylinders +can i disconect this for now just to see if all is ok or can it simply be turned off by the red switch on the front of it,","wel finally i think were getting somwhere , +spark is now sorted +narrowed down the jumping in and out of the cylinders to the fuel enricher on the 2nd carb, +diaphram is split so must be flooding the cylinders +can i disconect this for now just to see if all is ok or can it simply be turned off by the red switch on the front of it,","bondo, + +Thanks for the ideas. I will have to see if I can figure out how to get the to Dip-tube to check it out." +"well a friend of mine has a 1990s yamaha 75hp pro 2 stroke 3 cyl, + +outboard starts ok at first idles ok . +run to fishing ground 20 mins at any troottle no problems, +soon as he goes back to idle engine wont idle and stalls most of the time, +fish for a while go to start engine and it turns over but wont fire untill he puts the revs up quit abit, +put in gear and stalls again, idle seems rough then smoothings out and away we go, +its the same everytime, +just wont idle, + +heres what weve done so far, +took carbs apart , clean and rebuilt , +synced carbs +checked fuel pump, +checked for air leaks +checked thermostat, +changed plugs, +ran engine with spark testers and seems to have good spark , +clean all grounds, +compression checked out good and even , cant remember the numbers but were very good, + +anything else worth checking out. +thought it was defo just a carb problem but after doing the fuel systm dont think it is now,",The red lever should be closed. The lever is so you can start the engine in an emergency if the battery was dead with a pull rope.,The red lever should be closed. The lever is so you can start the engine in an emergency if the battery was dead with a pull rope.,Thanks! +"Guys, Fairly new here and I have a question regarding my 2002 Yamaha 115 V4 2 stroke. I was out a few weeks back and while running about 4k the motor started stalling and the temp lite was on and buzzing. I turned the motor off in the beginning and let cool down assuming it was getting too hot. Upon restart and at about 2k no warning light. Keep in mind the water was peeing out the back very strong as normal. All day i tooled around at 2-2.5k with no issues. I spoke to a couple people and they said the impeller may need to be replaced. I removed the foot and impeller housing and installed all new. + +First question: I can not get the plastic piece and the stainless cap to go back on and in fact broke the plastic piece trying. Is this a required part and if so can someone share the plastic piece part number so i can replace? Also, any tricks to getting this back on would be greatly appreciated. + +Second question: While removing the foot i noticed the rubber/plastic bushing guide for the shaft was badly worn so I removed it. need to get part number for that. + +Last Question: Any other things I should check regarding the temp light coming on besides replacing the impeller? + +Thanks for your time.",Bumping back up to get some help.. Thanks,Bumping back up to get some help.. Thanks,Year & model?? +"Guys, Fairly new here and I have a question regarding my 2002 Yamaha 115 V4 2 stroke. I was out a few weeks back and while running about 4k the motor started stalling and the temp lite was on and buzzing. I turned the motor off in the beginning and let cool down assuming it was getting too hot. Upon restart and at about 2k no warning light. Keep in mind the water was peeing out the back very strong as normal. All day i tooled around at 2-2.5k with no issues. I spoke to a couple people and they said the impeller may need to be replaced. I removed the foot and impeller housing and installed all new. + +First question: I can not get the plastic piece and the stainless cap to go back on and in fact broke the plastic piece trying. Is this a required part and if so can someone share the plastic piece part number so i can replace? Also, any tricks to getting this back on would be greatly appreciated. + +Second question: While removing the foot i noticed the rubber/plastic bushing guide for the shaft was badly worn so I removed it. need to get part number for that. + +Last Question: Any other things I should check regarding the temp light coming on besides replacing the impeller? + +Thanks for your time.",Is the plastic piece you are talking about the housing if possible put up pics,Is the plastic piece you are talking about the housing if possible put up pics,"By far one of my favourite 2-stroke motors of all time, low maintenance, hard workers. My friends used these on their fishing boats and they run WOT for hours to go out to sea and in extreme conditions. Fuel consumption is a bit high. There is not any known issues I am aware of, as long as you threat them well they will treat you well." +I have an alarm that goes off after a few minutes of running or idoling. Boat will run great until alarm goes off then it bogs down. It's pissing water so I was thinking it was maybe the pump on oil reservoir. Should I keep fighting with that or convert to pre-mixing gas?,"Does it go off when you are running at say 4000rpm cruise or only at lower rpm's? I am not sure about an 1989 model, but later models had a common issue with the water pressure relief valve (poppet valve) getting dirty or stuck and causing a low rpm overheat that goes away when you get the rpm's up higher.","Does it go off when you are running at say 4000rpm cruise or only at lower rpm's? I am not sure about an 1989 model, but later models had a common issue with the water pressure relief valve (poppet valve) getting dirty or stuck and causing a low rpm overheat that goes away when you get the rpm's up higher.","Yes,looms look good but are a hitch to work with.put a drain hole at lowest point of the loom." +I have an alarm that goes off after a few minutes of running or idoling. Boat will run great until alarm goes off then it bogs down. It's pissing water so I was thinking it was maybe the pump on oil reservoir. Should I keep fighting with that or convert to pre-mixing gas?,Thanks buddy! I tore into it yester day and found my hose was kinked behind gas tank from the trip! I went ahead and disassembled every hose on the oil system and cleaned them out. I cleaned both filters and the only problem was the water catcher on the motor tank had to be cut off. I just made me a new one at work. After all the cleaning the pump was singing and doing great. Hope that was the issue!,Thanks buddy! I tore into it yester day and found my hose was kinked behind gas tank from the trip! I went ahead and disassembled every hose on the oil system and cleaned them out. I cleaned both filters and the only problem was the water catcher on the motor tank had to be cut off. I just made me a new one at work. After all the cleaning the pump was singing and doing great. Hope that was the issue!,"If you reverse the polarity going to that starter mtr on CERTAIN outboards, it will run backwards. Had it happen to me." +"My '08 F250B has been in service since April of '10 but only has 300 hrs on it. The maintenance schedule says 500hrs or 5yrs, whichever comes first. Wear on these parts is only affected by the run time, any reason to do it now? + +Maybe one of the Yammy gurus can offer an opinion. Thanks!",Yes you should do it when it's recomnended. What if it's wearing incorrectly better to catch it early than to late.,Yes you should do it when it's recomnended. What if it's wearing incorrectly better to catch it early than to late.,"""Guys - appreciate the knowled + +""Guys - appreciate the knowledgeable input and recommendations. Closest AWLgrip dealer is quite a ways off, but will call and see if they can ship. I down-loaded the directions for testing to see if it will work on my deck surface. I'll start that process this week - at least the first two steps. Hope I don't have to strip it down to the fiberglas - that would be a serious pain.""" +"My '08 F250B has been in service since April of '10 but only has 300 hrs on it. The maintenance schedule says 500hrs or 5yrs, whichever comes first. Wear on these parts is only affected by the run time, any reason to do it now? + +Maybe one of the Yammy gurus can offer an opinion. Thanks!",I am running a 2010 merc with low hours...I am not going to touch it...,I am running a 2010 merc with low hours...I am not going to touch it...,"Well, I was wondering what the plug is used for, and if there's a reason only one is installed. I prefer to not plug in electrical jumpers if I don't know what they do. Since both engines seem to be running fine I'll just leave the starboard jumper off until someone who actually knows what it's for can answer my question. And to assume that installing an electrical jumper is in the same league as closing a gas cap is pretty naive...but thanks for your time." +"I have a 200SX that was not peeing water, I replaced the water pump and now have no forward or reverse. Where did I go wrong?",Check the shifting linkage where it came apart for the lower unit removal.,Check the shifting linkage where it came apart for the lower unit removal.,"I sure would test that out first. The tongue looks a bit too short to me. If you do need to extend it, remove the jack stand, cut the current tongue, and weld in four pieces of angle iron. Then clean it up and spray with cold galvanization paint. Re install the jack stand." +"I have a 200SX that was not peeing water, I replaced the water pump and now have no forward or reverse. Where did I go wrong?","Thank you, that was the problem, pulled back apart and moved the linkage and reinstalled, all works great now.","Thank you, that was the problem, pulled back apart and moved the linkage and reinstalled, all works great now.","DC stands for ""deep cycle"" which means that the grid plates are solid not open lattice. There's also more lead inside (thus the 50lbs weight) That means that it can take and hold a charge for longer period but is not very happy giving up electrons in short quick bursts. This is a marathon runner. For starting, you need a sprinter. Any start battery should be OK. There are also hybrid start/deep cycle that combine the characteristics of both to land somewhere in the middle. +But this particular battery is for running the ""house"" loads like lighting, pumps, etc." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""John, + +How many of your oth + +""John, + +How many of your other vehicles sit in and function in water only? Not only that , but boats also have a vented fuel system, which lets pressure out, but moisture in as well. Ethanol will asorb water, become heavy,seperate from gas(rermember oil and water dont mix)gas goes on top, water goes below, the fuel pump sucks up water, and your day is shot + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +""","""John, + +How many of your oth + +""John, + +How many of your other vehicles sit in and function in water only? Not only that , but boats also have a vented fuel system, which lets pressure out, but moisture in as well. Ethanol will asorb water, become heavy,seperate from gas(rermember oil and water dont mix)gas goes on top, water goes below, the fuel pump sucks up water, and your day is shot + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +""","I recommend two battery Blue Sea ACR and turning the trailer ski boat On/Off. No more 1, 2 off, all. Also have the boat switch in plain view (easy access). Note: this is a FW environment, if I was back on SW this switch would be placed back in its original location. See the trailer boat electrical diagram in the blue sea marine manual (Page 8?). Good luck" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""I have listened to those argu + +""I have listened to those arguments before and frankly they do not hold water. No pun intended. First off my boat never sets in water unless it is in use. Second I have mowers, trucks and other engines that set in 90% plus humidity daily here in Texas and they set for months at a time without any problem at all and all start right up and run fine. By the way most of them are vented also. The fact that a boat is in the water has little to do with the motor having problems because of Ethanol. The gas tank is not in the water but kept dry. So with all this it seems to me that the boat motor manufacturers have seriously dropped the ball.""","""I have listened to those argu + +""I have listened to those arguments before and frankly they do not hold water. No pun intended. First off my boat never sets in water unless it is in use. Second I have mowers, trucks and other engines that set in 90% plus humidity daily here in Texas and they set for months at a time without any problem at all and all start right up and run fine. By the way most of them are vented also. The fact that a boat is in the water has little to do with the motor having problems because of Ethanol. The gas tank is not in the water but kept dry. So with all this it seems to me that the boat motor manufacturers have seriously dropped the ball.""",How are you checking the fuel pressure? Do you have a gauge hooked to the VST? Did you change the filter between the vst and the high pressure pump? Did you drain all the water from the fuel rails? +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""Do this little test, pour som + +""Do this little test, pour some gas in a glass jar and let it sit on a shelf for a week, you will see water collect. Ethanol draws moisture...vehicles have a closed fuel system. That is why there are no problems with cars & trucks. A boat sitting in water has no effect on it. Put a fuel/water separator and you will have no problems. As far as mowers go I don't think they are as sensitive as an outboard engine asp. 4 strokes. Most guys I know that have mud motors (they use lawnmower engines) have no problems. But everyone I know including myself have solved the problems but putting a separator on.""","""Do this little test, pour som + +""Do this little test, pour some gas in a glass jar and let it sit on a shelf for a week, you will see water collect. Ethanol draws moisture...vehicles have a closed fuel system. That is why there are no problems with cars & trucks. A boat sitting in water has no effect on it. Put a fuel/water separator and you will have no problems. As far as mowers go I don't think they are as sensitive as an outboard engine asp. 4 strokes. Most guys I know that have mud motors (they use lawnmower engines) have no problems. But everyone I know including myself have solved the problems but putting a separator on.""","The part number does not indicate the type of rubber used in an impeller. + +The first three characters denote which model type the part was first used on. 6H4 denotes a 40 HP two stroke motor. Note that a 6H4 40 HP impeller can be used on numerous other models. + +The second five characters denote what the part is. 44352 denotes that the part is a water pump impeller. An F350 impeller will use 44352 as part of its complete impeller part number. + +The third two characters denote part number iterations. 00 denotes it is the first generation of the particular part. If an update is made to the part these numbers will be updated. An 00 will become a -01, a -01 will become a -02, etc. as design changes are made. A -01 is normally a form, fit and function replacement for a -00. + +The fourth two characters denote a colour code. Impellers are not colour coded and therefore -00 is used. If the part is coloured, say like a cowling, the last characters might be something like -4D. + +Bottom line is that there is no one outside of the engineering department within Yamaha Japan knows the differences between the different 6H4-44352 impellers. All the consumer needs to know is that part number 6H4-44352-02-00 is the latest configuration. It is the only part number that remains available today. Order either the -00, -01 or -02 and the -02 is what will be provided. -00 and -01 are no longer available. + +Hope I have not bored you with too much information." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","cars have open fuel cells + +t + +cars have open fuel cells + +they would not be able to vent and the gas tank would blow up!","cars have open fuel cells + +t + +cars have open fuel cells + +they would not be able to vent and the gas tank would blow up!","I am wondering if I should just buy a new water separator unit. They are about 60 dollars. Do they go bad? I am not sure what inside of them can go bad . + +to edit above post. It stalls under a load." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","Like I said the boat motor man + +Like I said the boat motor manufactures have dropped the ball on this one. If lawn mowers can be made to work fine so can boat motors.","Like I said the boat motor man + +Like I said the boat motor manufactures have dropped the ball on this one. If lawn mowers can be made to work fine so can boat motors.","Unfortunately UK has 95 as the lowest octane you can buy, even with the barrel prices at the lowest with in 12 years, a price of 1 litter of 95 is £1 which is $1.47 = $6.61 a Gallon + +This means it's costing me $58 a full tank to go 15 - 18 miles on it, I've got to find a way in running this more cheaply or unfortunately I'm going to have to sell it" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","No cars do not have open fuel + +No cars do not have open fuel cells. Cars have evaporative emission control systems. As for putting water in a glass what is the point? First gas tanks are not open like a glass. Second the problem is not that moisture gets into the fuel. The problem is that the engine needs some sort of rebuild when it happens. The carb mostly. This is what needs to be fixed by the manufacture. None the less I was raised on the farm and we had tractors that sat out in the open all year round. At times water did get in the gas and we would run the tractor until it stalled. All we had to do was drain the tank and put new gas in and there was no damage to the engine or carb. However the boat engine industry has dropped the ball because they use components that are not suitable to water or moisture yet they expect the product to be used in a wet environment. For the price of their engines they need to design engines that can stand a little water and not need a rebuild.","No cars do not have open fuel + +No cars do not have open fuel cells. Cars have evaporative emission control systems. As for putting water in a glass what is the point? First gas tanks are not open like a glass. Second the problem is not that moisture gets into the fuel. The problem is that the engine needs some sort of rebuild when it happens. The carb mostly. This is what needs to be fixed by the manufacture. None the less I was raised on the farm and we had tractors that sat out in the open all year round. At times water did get in the gas and we would run the tractor until it stalled. All we had to do was drain the tank and put new gas in and there was no damage to the engine or carb. However the boat engine industry has dropped the ball because they use components that are not suitable to water or moisture yet they expect the product to be used in a wet environment. For the price of their engines they need to design engines that can stand a little water and not need a rebuild.","What you are smelling is hydrogen sulfide gas. The gas is produced by sulfate-reducing bacteria in the water. Drain ,clean and sanitize your system." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""add a fuel/water seperator to + +""add a fuel/water seperator to your boat(Walmart $27) and use a fuel stabilizer like Stabil Marine(Walmart $20/quart)and you will eliminate most all of potential fuel problems. I use Stabil all the time in my lawn mowers, weedeaters, blowers, etc. The jets in outboards and these small motors are so small that it takes very little to plug them up. Ethanol fuel or not, you still need a fuel stabilizer in these small motors. A plugged jet in an outboard at 5000RPM can fry a piston""","""add a fuel/water seperator to + +""add a fuel/water seperator to your boat(Walmart $27) and use a fuel stabilizer like Stabil Marine(Walmart $20/quart)and you will eliminate most all of potential fuel problems. I use Stabil all the time in my lawn mowers, weedeaters, blowers, etc. The jets in outboards and these small motors are so small that it takes very little to plug them up. Ethanol fuel or not, you still need a fuel stabilizer in these small motors. A plugged jet in an outboard at 5000RPM can fry a piston""","Apologies, having a bit of trouble with the You Tube load, however the video is there. Hope you can access it to hear the noise. I suppose everything is possible, just surprised that it's a balance issue, again" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""summer of 08 I trailered my 2 + +""summer of 08 I trailered my 23ft lobster boat with a 150 Honda from Maine to Ma to go cod fishing with my cousins,I had to leave the boat for close to 3 weeks on the trailer,when I got back the racor was full of white paste with a touch of purple coloring in it.I had to tow the boat to the dealer & have it flushed out to get the engine running again.People here in Maine when I came back didn't believe me but by fall when Maine went to ethanol many people found out quickly how bad ethanol was.Snow mobiles got stranded miles from camp & rescue crews got broke down trying to get to them,very sad situation.The techs that I talked to said it was due to the ethanol molecules & water molecules combining to make a solid,hence the white paste I took out of my racor & it took less than 21 days.Most of us in my area are using Star Tron fuel treatment & have had no problems YET!""","""summer of 08 I trailered my 2 + +""summer of 08 I trailered my 23ft lobster boat with a 150 Honda from Maine to Ma to go cod fishing with my cousins,I had to leave the boat for close to 3 weeks on the trailer,when I got back the racor was full of white paste with a touch of purple coloring in it.I had to tow the boat to the dealer & have it flushed out to get the engine running again.People here in Maine when I came back didn't believe me but by fall when Maine went to ethanol many people found out quickly how bad ethanol was.Snow mobiles got stranded miles from camp & rescue crews got broke down trying to get to them,very sad situation.The techs that I talked to said it was due to the ethanol molecules & water molecules combining to make a solid,hence the white paste I took out of my racor & it took less than 21 days.Most of us in my area are using Star Tron fuel treatment & have had no problems YET!""",Get a photobucket account and upload your pics there and then link them here. +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""I wonder if they will force t + +""I wonder if they will force the aviation industry to add ethanol to fuel too. I'll never step foot on a plane again! + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +""","""I wonder if they will force t + +""I wonder if they will force the aviation industry to add ethanol to fuel too. I'll never step foot on a plane again! + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +""","One other comment - make a test light with a couple wires ending in alligator clips, and the other end connected to a 12 volt light bulb. Clip the two leads to the terminals on your fuel pump. Turn on the furnace - if the light blinks (after the 30 second warmup period),but the pump isn't 'ticking', it's probably the pump. If there's no flashing, then no impulse is being sent to the pump - look towards those motor brushes, or the control module. + +~Loren" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","they use straight alcohol! cuz + +they use straight alcohol! cuz it does not freeze","they use straight alcohol! cuz + +they use straight alcohol! cuz it does not freeze","carbs float is sticking + +carbs float is sticking" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""Read this it will provide a g + +""Read this it will provide a good read about ethanol +http://74.125.93.132/search?q=cache:lKLKL2m3MaEJ:[url]https://sawmillmag.com/download Object.php%3Fx%3Dfeature_article%26object%3D4+trouble+with+ethanol+by+craig+blak e&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us[/url] +its alittle broke up but its worth it""","""Read this it will provide a g + +""Read this it will provide a good read about ethanol +http://74.125.93.132/search?q=cache:lKLKL2m3MaEJ:[url]https://sawmillmag.com/download Object.php%3Fx%3Dfeature_article%26object%3D4+trouble+with+ethanol+by+craig+blak e&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us[/url] +its alittle broke up but its worth it""",You are close.-----The black thingy at the front locks the barrels in.-----You were almost there when pulling the thing towards yourself.----Look close at how that locks. +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""I have had ZERO alcohol-relat + +""I have had ZERO alcohol-related problems on my various boats, jetski, motorcyles, cars, trucks, or RVs!""","""I have had ZERO alcohol-relat + +""I have had ZERO alcohol-related problems on my various boats, jetski, motorcyles, cars, trucks, or RVs!""",thanks for all the help. I used epoxy on the screwdriver and let in set up an pulled it right out. having trouble getting it to run now. +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""I use fuel stabilizer in all + +""I use fuel stabilizer in all motors except cars. Some folks get by without using it their boat motors, especially if they run the motor often enough to keep fuel fresh, like every few days. For me, I'll use the Stabil Marine all the time and a fuel/water separator to prevent water/fuel/ethanol problems in the carbs. Been running this motor 11 years now with no problems or issues at all. But everbody's got to decide what's best for them. Probably 2 kinds of folks, the people who use fuel stabilizer before they have problems and the people who use it after they have problems. Good Luck!""","""I use fuel stabilizer in all + +""I use fuel stabilizer in all motors except cars. Some folks get by without using it their boat motors, especially if they run the motor often enough to keep fuel fresh, like every few days. For me, I'll use the Stabil Marine all the time and a fuel/water separator to prevent water/fuel/ethanol problems in the carbs. Been running this motor 11 years now with no problems or issues at all. But everbody's got to decide what's best for them. Probably 2 kinds of folks, the people who use fuel stabilizer before they have problems and the people who use it after they have problems. Good Luck!""","If one were paying a shop for labour, at times it is more cost effective for a mechanic to cut the parts apart. Then replace with new. The savings in labour will offset the cost of the parts." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""One other item, the new 2010 + +""One other item, the new 2010 Yamaha motors have 2 fuel/water separators on them to address this very real issue. You gotta do whatever it takes to make your motor run to your satisfaction and I can't stand machinery that won't run, especially on a boat with my wife 75 miles down the river! Think about it!""","""One other item, the new 2010 + +""One other item, the new 2010 Yamaha motors have 2 fuel/water separators on them to address this very real issue. You gotta do whatever it takes to make your motor run to your satisfaction and I can't stand machinery that won't run, especially on a boat with my wife 75 miles down the river! Think about it!""","The multi-function tiller handle will not interface with the F25SWHC model. The M/F tiller handle works with the remote controlled F25 models only. + +You will find that it is impractical to try and install a power trim and tilt unit on a model not intended to have it. Too many expensive parts needed and a lot of labour. + +Maybe consider an aftermarket power trim and tilt device between the motor and the transom. + +https://www.boatownersworld.com/cmc-pt-35.html" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""separators are great for wate + +""separators are great for water & particles, it isn't going to have an effect on the ethanol,I have a racor on my engine,as long as I am lobster fishing everyday no problem,it's when you have a layup,mine was less than 3 weeks & the gas solidified from the racor through the complete gas system,cost me over $500 to have fixed.There is talk of increasing the ethanol in gas & letting the marine idustry off with using straight gas,high test only probably just talk no matter I will be using stabilizer.""","""separators are great for wate + +""separators are great for water & particles, it isn't going to have an effect on the ethanol,I have a racor on my engine,as long as I am lobster fishing everyday no problem,it's when you have a layup,mine was less than 3 weeks & the gas solidified from the racor through the complete gas system,cost me over $500 to have fixed.There is talk of increasing the ethanol in gas & letting the marine idustry off with using straight gas,high test only probably just talk no matter I will be using stabilizer.""",i should mention i try the working box with both engines and it starts perfectly but i didn't exchange the cables on the throttle box +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""this is another good read on + +""this is another good read on ethanol and its being raised to e15. + +E15 stumbling blocks""","""this is another good read on + +""this is another good read on ethanol and its being raised to e15. + +E15 stumbling blocks""","The boat is brand new with no + +The boat is brand new with no bottom paint as of yet. It has been sitting in the water to get a water line so it can be bottom painted. So then what are the steps. 1. 2. 3. +Thanks" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""Robert...would be interested + +""Robert...would be interested in any sources you have for the 2010 Yamaha, particularly the F40. I checked all the usual places but no real info there. + +On the fuel problem, everyone indicates that the main problem is with moisture being drawn into the system and fuel that is old enough to degrade or phase separate. The moisture problem will continue until someone figures out how to put a collapsing bladder in the fuel tank so there won't have to be a vent. Only problem I can see with that is not having a fuel gauge. Second problem is easier....buy the gas, use stabalizer, and use it up.""","""Robert...would be interested + +""Robert...would be interested in any sources you have for the 2010 Yamaha, particularly the F40. I checked all the usual places but no real info there. + +On the fuel problem, everyone indicates that the main problem is with moisture being drawn into the system and fuel that is old enough to degrade or phase separate. The moisture problem will continue until someone figures out how to put a collapsing bladder in the fuel tank so there won't have to be a vent. Only problem I can see with that is not having a fuel gauge. Second problem is easier....buy the gas, use stabalizer, and use it up.""","Long shaft is 20"" and the short shaft is 15"" to keel. www.Lundboats.com has a spec page. One thing to remember is where the water pickup is located on the lower unit. If you have a small Hp that you are dealing with I would cut down your transom 2"" with a jig saw and metal blade,oil well, and slap on that motor. The transom should be reinforced with wood and maybe a angle plate of some sort that bears the brunt of the pushing force. + + + + + +wassajet said: + + + + The flush measurement of the transom on my tinny is 17"" from top to bottom.What i need to know is will a short shaft motor be ok on this boat ?All help will be appreciated. + +Click to expand..." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""I have had my truck for over + +""I have had my truck for over 9 years. I put less than 4000 miles a year on it and 2500-3000 miles of that is my annual trip to FL. It sits for months at a time with the same gas in it. No problems with it. I have put gas in a jar several times and have not seen it seperate. And yes, we have ethanol in our gas.""","""I have had my truck for over + +""I have had my truck for over 9 years. I put less than 4000 miles a year on it and 2500-3000 miles of that is my annual trip to FL. It sits for months at a time with the same gas in it. No problems with it. I have put gas in a jar several times and have not seen it seperate. And yes, we have ethanol in our gas.""","Ayuh,... Who knows,..?? + +You haven't said What the boat is, or What the motor is, or What the drive is, or What vintage any of it is... + +So, I'll Guess it's obsolete, 'n no longer needed..." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","Mike....my '95 Ranger is d + +Mike....my '95 Ranger is driven just like your truck...and I did the same gas-in-the-jar with the same results. I did get it to phase separate after I added enough water to it and shook it just so I could see what it looked like.","Mike....my '95 Ranger is d + +Mike....my '95 Ranger is driven just like your truck...and I did the same gas-in-the-jar with the same results. I did get it to phase separate after I added enough water to it and shook it just so I could see what it looked like.","I would suggest you call the folks at SeaStar, the Capilano product line's manufacturer, and ask them. Several years ago, I converted my power boat from Morse mechanical steering to SeaStar hydraulic and needed some advice. I called their technical support and received excellent, helpful information. 604-248-3858 +http://seastarsolutions.com/support-2/technical-support/hydraulic-steering/" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","run a 2 micron filter from rac + +run a 2 micron filter from racor it works","run a 2 micron filter from rac + +run a 2 micron filter from racor it works","Sometimes the castings are imperfect and have thin spots. Do you have a photo of the affected area? I have welded blocks and lower units on freeze cracks. Some even without dismantling. This is where a mig will work and a tig will not. Here is a sample photo, this unit was severely damaged. Merc Optimax. Hard rock strike, cracked, with bent prop shaft. If the damage is isolated and accessible, a good and experienced mig welder may help you. Jet skis can be repaired too, I have done them, but it can be tricky. Some aluminum alloys will put a good welder to shame. For most work, and even propeller repair, I prefer Hobart wire ER4043 .035 on straight Argon, not tri-mix gas. Run about 25 to 30 psi. Heat is so delicately critical, but when done right, it will likely last for years and years." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""I have a racor filter & i + +""I have a racor filter & it didn't make a difference,I still got in a mess.Not all states started using the ethanol at the same time & that made it tough,many people paid the price.All I know I have learnt my lesson & will be more observant at the gas pumps for future increases of ethanol.I know some will disagree with what I am saying I am only trying to save you from spending big money,my friend was one of the people that thought it was BS until he had to flush out a brand new chain saw & then his 4 wheeler met with the same demise,he now uses stabilizer!""","""I have a racor filter & i + +""I have a racor filter & it didn't make a difference,I still got in a mess.Not all states started using the ethanol at the same time & that made it tough,many people paid the price.All I know I have learnt my lesson & will be more observant at the gas pumps for future increases of ethanol.I know some will disagree with what I am saying I am only trying to save you from spending big money,my friend was one of the people that thought it was BS until he had to flush out a brand new chain saw & then his 4 wheeler met with the same demise,he now uses stabilizer!""","LeslieBShaw said: + + + + Well, I am not really sure that you can actually find this kind of course. The only thing that comes to my mind is the marine technical schools. However, as I know a couple of them have been closed, you won't find exactly what you need in some others. I have a friend called Jack who is also a former NAVY, but he was a doctor. So, he has had a great MCAT score. He has actually got an insane score! It was above 500 points. So, he is leading some special courses for the young navy, teaching them the basics of first aid. If you do not know what MCAT is or want to find out how to get the best possible score, just read this article. Jack has also read it before passing the exam. + +Click to expand... + +that is a nice score though!" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""2 mircon, not 10 or 20 they s + +""2 mircon, not 10 or 20 they sell""","""2 mircon, not 10 or 20 they s + +""2 mircon, not 10 or 20 they sell""","Simply great advice aliboy. I sure would like Yamaha to step up, the HB 03 version was installed but clearly its failed. So now the 04 version is supposed to be the fix....whats next the 05 version. So every few years the owner needs to step up and pay for this...smells like ? Apologies for the 'vent'. +I appreciate your guidance, at this point I just know that I can't keep using the boat as is." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""Even going with 2 micron will + +""Even going with 2 micron will not solve problem because the filter can not gaurantee 100% separation of gas & water,racor from what I have read state 99% to nearly 100% filtration which means the system will have water in it however small the amount, going by the Honda tech the water molecule & gas molecule will combine to make a solid if left sitting in the tank within a 3 week period & I know this is true because I have seen it with my own eyes & trust me it is not worth messing with.I only use what Honda tells me,flow rates are different & you have to have the right filter for your application.Good luck & if doubtful of what I am saying check with your outboard dealer to make sure I wouldn't want anyone broke down when the bite is on!""","""Even going with 2 micron will + +""Even going with 2 micron will not solve problem because the filter can not gaurantee 100% separation of gas & water,racor from what I have read state 99% to nearly 100% filtration which means the system will have water in it however small the amount, going by the Honda tech the water molecule & gas molecule will combine to make a solid if left sitting in the tank within a 3 week period & I know this is true because I have seen it with my own eyes & trust me it is not worth messing with.I only use what Honda tells me,flow rates are different & you have to have the right filter for your application.Good luck & if doubtful of what I am saying check with your outboard dealer to make sure I wouldn't want anyone broke down when the bite is on!""","Ok, that makes sense. But is there a cheaper way other than the dual pro charge unit? what is the isolator called so i can searchgoogle??" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""you have to check it + +that + +""you have to check it + +that is why they have a clear bowl + +if you have gallons of water , your screwed""","""you have to check it + +that + +""you have to check it + +that is why they have a clear bowl + +if you have gallons of water , your screwed""","Raise the ball hitch up (turn it over, if it's the offset kind?). The higher the trailer tongue, the deeper the stern will be in the water, and the boat will float off the trailer sooner. + +I boat in the chuck, so backing the truck wheels into the water isn't an option for me." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""I have a clear bowl & the + +""I have a clear bowl & the filter that was on didn't have that many hours on it,the problem was the layup & trying to leave before daylight.I know I screwed up,when I am lobster fishing I check the bowl everyday,I should have checked the bowl when the boat was at my cousins but I was to busy thinking about catching cod & haddock.The sad thing is it doesn't take gallons of water just a little bit of water will cause the reaction if you don't use the gas within the 3 week period.We are having a hard time here in Maine with gas right from the pumps,a friend of mine that works on engines put some gas that he bought right into a glass jar & in no time it started to change.The Honda dealer here was pulling his hair out by the end of the boating season & he even called the gas supplier to bitch them out but it didn't do any good.""","""I have a clear bowl & the + +""I have a clear bowl & the filter that was on didn't have that many hours on it,the problem was the layup & trying to leave before daylight.I know I screwed up,when I am lobster fishing I check the bowl everyday,I should have checked the bowl when the boat was at my cousins but I was to busy thinking about catching cod & haddock.The sad thing is it doesn't take gallons of water just a little bit of water will cause the reaction if you don't use the gas within the 3 week period.We are having a hard time here in Maine with gas right from the pumps,a friend of mine that works on engines put some gas that he bought right into a glass jar & in no time it started to change.The Honda dealer here was pulling his hair out by the end of the boating season & he even called the gas supplier to bitch them out but it didn't do any good.""","oldmako said: + + + + No idea yet on the oil. Will look into that. Today I swapped the fuel lines from the Racor's to try and isolate the issue. There was no change and the port engine crapped out again. Consequently, I think that the problem might just be on the port engine itself and not the fuel delivery. + +I have received some good intel from SIM Yamaha regarding other things to check. I guess that's where I am headed at this point. + +Interestingly, if I run the port engine at 12-14 hundred RPM, it does not fail. I have a fairly long run both up and down my creek to get to the bay and all of it is a no wake zone. So, for the last few days I have run the port engine at 12-1500 and the starboard at 600. It doesn't quit at that rpm. + +Click to expand... + + +Here's a link to another forum that talked about your problem... http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...oards/267270-yamaha-225-4-stroke-fuel-problem + +From what they discuss.... The ""F"" shaped fuel filter apears to be part #16 on Sim Yamaha's engine diagrams of your engine under ""intake 2""." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""we have been using this gas h + +""we have been using this gas here since 2001!!! + +never had problems, run stabilzers and water seps + +the problems is when you mix old gas with the new stuff!!!""","""we have been using this gas h + +""we have been using this gas here since 2001!!! + +never had problems, run stabilzers and water seps + +the problems is when you mix old gas with the new stuff!!!""","Sounds like the carburetor is set too lean on the low speed mixture screw.-------These carburetors have tiny passage ways that can be difficult to find to clean them.-----And what do your "" mechanics "" tell you needs to be done ??" +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","""Not sure where HERE is but Ma + +""Not sure where HERE is but Maine started fall of 08can't remember for sure the date,all I know it screwed alot of people here in Maine.I tried to tell people when I came home from Ma. but no one would listen until they started ruining chain saws,generators sno mobiles,outboards but then it was to late,damage done.The big problem with the new gas with ethanol is the water they always said gas & water don't mix but in this case ethanol molecules & water molecules combine to make a solid if left sitting for an extended time,less than 3 weeks.The govt. in their wisdom thought they would be saving money,oil,environment,create jobs but if we had the expense to the public right now because of ethanol it is probably quite scary & I think they should stop using ethanol for marine use but I am not going to hold my breath on that one!All I know is add stabilizer, keep changing filters & hang on because it looks like it is going to get worse instead of better.""","""Not sure where HERE is but Ma + +""Not sure where HERE is but Maine started fall of 08can't remember for sure the date,all I know it screwed alot of people here in Maine.I tried to tell people when I came home from Ma. but no one would listen until they started ruining chain saws,generators sno mobiles,outboards but then it was to late,damage done.The big problem with the new gas with ethanol is the water they always said gas & water don't mix but in this case ethanol molecules & water molecules combine to make a solid if left sitting for an extended time,less than 3 weeks.The govt. in their wisdom thought they would be saving money,oil,environment,create jobs but if we had the expense to the public right now because of ethanol it is probably quite scary & I think they should stop using ethanol for marine use but I am not going to hold my breath on that one!All I know is add stabilizer, keep changing filters & hang on because it looks like it is going to get worse instead of better.""","Thanks for the reply, Gotboat. + +I bought an agle grinder from Harbour Frt and a pack of metal cutting disks for about $19.00. + +The grinder was on sale for $10.00. If it lasts this job, it will be worth it. + +The shop that will be installing the new stingers, deck and transom told me not to grind everything down. They will do that. + +All I need to do is get the big pieces out." +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","the problem was that people st + +the problem was that people still had old gas formulation in the tanks + +when mixed up with the new stuff it turns white","the problem was that people st + +the problem was that people still had old gas formulation in the tanks + +when mixed up with the new stuff it turns white",Does it look like this? +"I would like an un-biased answ + +I would like an un-biased answer to a question I have. Why are boaters having to take special caution with their motors using ethanol? No other motor has this problem. Our vehicles do fine as well as small engines such as mowers and tractors. Has the engine manufactures dropped the ball here or what?","Its true that water and gas do + +Its true that water and gas does not mix but water and alcohol do which is why we for so many years we used dry gas. We knew when using dry gas that to much was bad for some components of our systems. for many years gas had MTBE that was devastating for the water. So the ethanol showed up. One of the side affects is that it cleans all the components of the build up that the old gas created in the carbs lines and tanks. ( in our cars we like that) Some times they can have large pieces float through the system. Also if we are talking about a boat that might be a bit older it my very well not have alcohol resistant hoses in which case it breaks the rubber down and those pieces float up through. and in some even older boat the fiber glass gas tanks are actually meting in place. +We as boat owners tend to neglect our boats and their components this gas is a problem but we can stay ahead of it as well and minimize the affects.","Its true that water and gas do + +Its true that water and gas does not mix but water and alcohol do which is why we for so many years we used dry gas. We knew when using dry gas that to much was bad for some components of our systems. for many years gas had MTBE that was devastating for the water. So the ethanol showed up. One of the side affects is that it cleans all the components of the build up that the old gas created in the carbs lines and tanks. ( in our cars we like that) Some times they can have large pieces float through the system. Also if we are talking about a boat that might be a bit older it my very well not have alcohol resistant hoses in which case it breaks the rubber down and those pieces float up through. and in some even older boat the fiber glass gas tanks are actually meting in place. +We as boat owners tend to neglect our boats and their components this gas is a problem but we can stay ahead of it as well and minimize the affects.",Check the lanyard. +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Click to expand... + + Batteries can die of old age...you are lucky the Wally World batteries made it past 3 years.","batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Click to expand... + + Batteries can die of old age...you are lucky the Wally World batteries made it past 3 years.",That's a good answer -- that's what I have actually. +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","Check the ends of the main power cables where the 'terminals connectors' are crimped on. They might look fine, but under the heat shrink they can be corroded right away. A simple test is to see how easily the cable will bend at the edge of the crimp, or pull hard on the terminal end and see if the connector moves or pulls right off. If it bends really easily it is probably bad. This is a really common problem and one of the symptoms is that the cable and and terminal post will get hot. The -ve cable is the one most commonly affected. Fixed the same problem on one of my winch power cables last Friday.","Check the ends of the main power cables where the 'terminals connectors' are crimped on. They might look fine, but under the heat shrink they can be corroded right away. A simple test is to see how easily the cable will bend at the edge of the crimp, or pull hard on the terminal end and see if the connector moves or pulls right off. If it bends really easily it is probably bad. This is a really common problem and one of the symptoms is that the cable and and terminal post will get hot. The -ve cable is the one most commonly affected. Fixed the same problem on one of my winch power cables last Friday.",I feel really stupid what does the magneto look like I have a small silver wheel looking that that the belt goes and and then the big fly wheel looking thing that the starter engages which one is the mageto if it's the big wheel it's going to be about I week before I can get it off as I dont have a socket that big +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","A boat is not the place to run a battery til it craps out....(or the wifes car or anywhere else for that matter)...3 years is my rule on the starting battery...the trolling motor battery i will push a little longer..you can tell when it time by the ''feel' on those.. + you either have a bad cable or connection or a loose post on the hot post...you may also be drawing current after the shut down for it to still be hot after doing all your loading etc...fix your cable or corroded terminal on the cable first...then as you hook up the new battery watch for any spark when the last cable is attached.. if you see that then something is drawing current when it should not...then check the post after running the boat for heat to make sure you fixed it...check with a meter or your boat gauge to make sure the battery is charging ....","A boat is not the place to run a battery til it craps out....(or the wifes car or anywhere else for that matter)...3 years is my rule on the starting battery...the trolling motor battery i will push a little longer..you can tell when it time by the ''feel' on those.. + you either have a bad cable or connection or a loose post on the hot post...you may also be drawing current after the shut down for it to still be hot after doing all your loading etc...fix your cable or corroded terminal on the cable first...then as you hook up the new battery watch for any spark when the last cable is attached.. if you see that then something is drawing current when it should not...then check the post after running the boat for heat to make sure you fixed it...check with a meter or your boat gauge to make sure the battery is charging ....","Look on the block for a round decal that has some numbers on it. What are they? + +Float height is 15mm. Plus or mine 1 mm." +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","for what it's worth, when running my motor i never set my selector switch to ""both"" when running. select one battery setting and keep it there. that way you have a fresh battery available and that can save you a tow. a lot of people will suggest to alternate during the day. bad idea ! especially if the engine is not charging. then you are just running both batteries down during the day. leave the charging for both batteries for when you get home. run on the main battery......then switch to the alternate if there is a problem.","for what it's worth, when running my motor i never set my selector switch to ""both"" when running. select one battery setting and keep it there. that way you have a fresh battery available and that can save you a tow. a lot of people will suggest to alternate during the day. bad idea ! especially if the engine is not charging. then you are just running both batteries down during the day. leave the charging for both batteries for when you get home. run on the main battery......then switch to the alternate if there is a problem.","DualDog said: + + + + I actually bought this on a boat without seeing it running. Previous owner said it wouldn't stay running and thought carb needed rebuilt. I got back to the motor and put some water muffs on if with some fresh fuel. It seems to starts and idle fine. It was not pumping water. I took the muffs off and put a water tub under it that goes up to just above the cavitation plate. Water is not coming out up top from where most motors have the pee stream or tail tell. No water is coming from the rear where exhaust exits but some is spitting slightly on what I would call the front. Opposite side of the exhaust. I only ran it for about 15-20 seconds and shut it down a couple times. I ordered a water pump kit and going to try to install that. I've only changed a water pump on smaller OMC Johnson/Evinrude motors before. This looks like it may be a little different. + +Click to expand... + +The anti-ventilation plate is well below the water pump. The pump needs to be submerged to work effectively. Once wet it might pull water up to it but I would not count on it. I suspect that you need a new pump. Then try it with water well up the mid-section." +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","agree with crankbait...keep it simple and safe....always put a boat in the water with fully charged batteries...most charging systems on outboards are designed to maintain a battery..not to charge a dead battery...if charging a dead battery is within the capability of the charging system using it for such just adds to the heat in the stator which is bad news in itself...so i dont do it.. + after many years on the water(60 running a boat..75 years old) you develop a thought process on boats..#1.is everything on the rig in top shape..no known problems...especially in the electrical or gas feed areas...do i have the minimum tools and battery power and gas to get me in? #2..never fish with a person in his rig the 2nd time if the rig is not maintained..i could go on and on...","agree with crankbait...keep it simple and safe....always put a boat in the water with fully charged batteries...most charging systems on outboards are designed to maintain a battery..not to charge a dead battery...if charging a dead battery is within the capability of the charging system using it for such just adds to the heat in the stator which is bad news in itself...so i dont do it.. + after many years on the water(60 running a boat..75 years old) you develop a thought process on boats..#1.is everything on the rig in top shape..no known problems...especially in the electrical or gas feed areas...do i have the minimum tools and battery power and gas to get me in? #2..never fish with a person in his rig the 2nd time if the rig is not maintained..i could go on and on...","""The guys up here who have the + +""The guys up here who have the skids like them, but I still prefer rollers. All the bunk guys have to sink their trailers..often to the point of the rear wheels of the tow vehicle being in the salt on a shallow ramp.....not good for the rear brakes!! I love my Shoreland'r, great roller system, dropped axles and disc brakes standard equipment! I have a 22 ft Seasport it rolls off with a slight push everytime...have to hold it back it goes off so fast.""" +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","You guys nailed it. I had both batteries tested at Autozone, and as expected both were bad. As also was mentioned above, I checked the negative cables for corrosion, etc. Negative cables actually looked good etc for some VERY minor surface corrosion on the lug only. The positive cable however on the Starting Battery side, was a mess. There wasn't much left of that at all. I didn't notice it in the dark when I pulled the batteries out, but it wasn't difficult to find at all the next day. + +Two Deka's, a new cable and we spent the entire day on the water with no trouble. Still some work to do, but nothing pressing. + +You guys are awesome. Thanks SO much for the info and experience. I take every bit of it seriously. + +I'll be back.","You guys nailed it. I had both batteries tested at Autozone, and as expected both were bad. As also was mentioned above, I checked the negative cables for corrosion, etc. Negative cables actually looked good etc for some VERY minor surface corrosion on the lug only. The positive cable however on the Starting Battery side, was a mess. There wasn't much left of that at all. I didn't notice it in the dark when I pulled the batteries out, but it wasn't difficult to find at all the next day. + +Two Deka's, a new cable and we spent the entire day on the water with no trouble. Still some work to do, but nothing pressing. + +You guys are awesome. Thanks SO much for the info and experience. I take every bit of it seriously. + +I'll be back.","Bondo is 110% correct and his statement of ""redundant ground"" is perfect in that a bonding circuit is not a current carrying path. Circuit grounds are in addition to the bonding circuit. The fuel level sensor should have a bonding screw on it or a spot on the mounting flange that a screw penetrates. Bond it to a screw that fastens to the plastic tank and then fasten that to a bolt / bonding point on the engine. The trick here is to put everything to the ""same electrical potential"" to avoid any static discharges / differences in potential and eliminate any sparks in the event these components become connected together in some fashion. If you take an ohm meter and connect either lead between any 2 major components, there should be less than 1 (one) ohm resistance between any 2 components at thier bonding point (of course you will get a higher than 1 ohm reading if you put 1 lead of the meter to plastic of tank). Bonding is your friend, especially where fuel and / or corrosive conditions are concerned." +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?",I use a battery protective spray on all terminals and lugs...stops corrosion dead. Any auto parts store has it. All of my toys get it sprayed on them. My boat trailer lights did not work yesterday. I found the truck's pigtail had corroded female terminals. I used rolled sandpaper and polished them then swabbed them w/the spray.,I use a battery protective spray on all terminals and lugs...stops corrosion dead. Any auto parts store has it. All of my toys get it sprayed on them. My boat trailer lights did not work yesterday. I found the truck's pigtail had corroded female terminals. I used rolled sandpaper and polished them then swabbed them w/the spray.,"the boat is rated at 985 pounds +the livewells are 54 quart coleman coolers, with water about 15 pounds each. a total weight of about 30 pounds , if i install both coolers. +remember the collers only being 3/4 full +and 2 over weight fishing guys, about 450 lbs +the dry weight of the enivrude is 115 pounds.." +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?",that spray is good...carry it in my truck....on those new batteries...if they came with wing nuts get rid of them and replace with regular nuts..use the spray mentioned above...i threw a cheap box wrench in the battery compartment and every now and then when i top off my batteries i check and make sure they are tight...never found a really loose one but sometimes i get maybe 1/8th of a turn..a decent battery charger that wont boil batteries is a good investment...and in todays market there are some priced in the 50 dollar range that you can leave hooked up and never worry..i run separate batteries for start and trolling motor..when i get the boat home the charger goes on the trolling motor battery within 24 hours...when it is topped off i move the charger to the start battery and just leave it...,that spray is good...carry it in my truck....on those new batteries...if they came with wing nuts get rid of them and replace with regular nuts..use the spray mentioned above...i threw a cheap box wrench in the battery compartment and every now and then when i top off my batteries i check and make sure they are tight...never found a really loose one but sometimes i get maybe 1/8th of a turn..a decent battery charger that wont boil batteries is a good investment...and in todays market there are some priced in the 50 dollar range that you can leave hooked up and never worry..i run separate batteries for start and trolling motor..when i get the boat home the charger goes on the trolling motor battery within 24 hours...when it is topped off i move the charger to the start battery and just leave it...,"You'll need to take it to a dealer who can hook up a computer to the motor. + +Unless you got deep pockets and can buy the programming for yourself" +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?",you mentioned things that are not pressing but need doing...a word to the wise...do them...a boat is like no other piece of equipment you own...first of all they go to pot with no use...so use it and maintain it...if you dont then one day you will back off and look at it and you got a pile of crap...the trailer bearings are probably shot..the trailer lights dont work or half ass work sometimes..the trailer runners are rotten... the boat itself will have many things wrong....the motor lower unit oil is too old..plugs have not been changed or checked...carbs are questionable...etc etc etc... the key is to fix everything that you see wrong...you will have things break or quit working regardless but at least you are basicly ok..,you mentioned things that are not pressing but need doing...a word to the wise...do them...a boat is like no other piece of equipment you own...first of all they go to pot with no use...so use it and maintain it...if you dont then one day you will back off and look at it and you got a pile of crap...the trailer bearings are probably shot..the trailer lights dont work or half ass work sometimes..the trailer runners are rotten... the boat itself will have many things wrong....the motor lower unit oil is too old..plugs have not been changed or checked...carbs are questionable...etc etc etc... the key is to fix everything that you see wrong...you will have things break or quit working regardless but at least you are basicly ok..,If they dont sell them commercially you could get a shop to laser cut and fold a plate that fits between transom and engine. Its only to anchor the boat so wouldn't need to be anything too drastic. +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?",Walmart is not the place to purchase marine batteries. They are the worst of the worst. They will cause problems. Get a set of good batteries and retest.,Walmart is not the place to purchase marine batteries. They are the worst of the worst. They will cause problems. Get a set of good batteries and retest.,"Is this a new issue? The gear grind is one thing, the acceleration when in reverse gear is another. Check gear oil since having this issue?" +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?",he said he got Deka batteries...he did mention auto zone but i didnt know they or walmart carried dekas....oriely does..either way they are not cheap and good batteries...10 year warranty on their batteries and 5 years on their rebrands...i think the rebrands are red top but not positive on that...,he said he got Deka batteries...he did mention auto zone but i didnt know they or walmart carried dekas....oriely does..either way they are not cheap and good batteries...10 year warranty on their batteries and 5 years on their rebrands...i think the rebrands are red top but not positive on that...,"I know that this is a very old post, but wondering if you ever solved this issue?" +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","Whenever I buy a battery I check the mfg. date code so that I don't get one that has been sitting on the shelf more than 2-3 months. A few years back I went to a Sears Hardware to get a Diehard marine starting battery. The clerk...young boy...tried to sell me one that was 3 years old. He didn't know about date codes. Sample code: F2 = June 2012. The letter is the month where A=Jan., B=Feb., C=Mar., etc. and the number is the last digit of the year where 1=2011, 2=2012, 3=2013,etc.","Whenever I buy a battery I check the mfg. date code so that I don't get one that has been sitting on the shelf more than 2-3 months. A few years back I went to a Sears Hardware to get a Diehard marine starting battery. The clerk...young boy...tried to sell me one that was 3 years old. He didn't know about date codes. Sample code: F2 = June 2012. The letter is the month where A=Jan., B=Feb., C=Mar., etc. and the number is the last digit of the year where 1=2011, 2=2012, 3=2013,etc.",Well may have to go to OMC outdrive then. I can get a rig off of a 1996 that is in good shape and just replace the lower unit. More concerned with the HP and weight change effecting performance of the hull even with20 gallons more of fuel I is going to be light in the transom. Hoping the 330HP will perform as well as the duals did on the boat. +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","papyson said: + + + + he said he got Deka batteries...he did mention auto zone but i didnt know they or walmart carried dekas....oriely does..either way they are not cheap and good batteries...10 year warranty on their batteries and 5 years on their rebrands...i think the rebrands are red top but not positive on that... + +Click to expand... + + +I agree Deka does make the best battery. Walmart batteries will cause many issues.","papyson said: + + + + he said he got Deka batteries...he did mention auto zone but i didnt know they or walmart carried dekas....oriely does..either way they are not cheap and good batteries...10 year warranty on their batteries and 5 years on their rebrands...i think the rebrands are red top but not positive on that... + +Click to expand... + + +I agree Deka does make the best battery. Walmart batteries will cause many issues.","smartcar.passion said: + + + +My 2004 Yamaha 200HP 4 stroke engine won't turnover. I first thought it was the battery but I'm pretty sure now that it's not. I used heavy duty jumper cables from my running truck directly to the outboards starter. the starters gear engages the flywheel but from that point it only clicks. I pulled the spark plugs out of the engine thinking the engine might be seized up and it does exactly the same thing, just clicks...... I can rotate the flywheel easily with my hands when the spark plugs are out so I figure the inners of the engine are fine. + +Any thoughts on what the problem might be? + +thank you in advance..... + +Click to expand... + + +Been a while, but this sounds like a hydro locked motor. Mercury had a defective design on a $20 vacuum hose that they run in the fuel pump housing and it ruptures sucking fuel directly into the intake manifold flooding the lower cylinder. This locks up the motor and can destroy the starter and take a big chunk of life out of your battery as it tries to turn over this locked up motor. I suppose you could be so unlucky to have this happen when underway and locking up the cylinder could do internal damage (bent rod?). Also, your cylinder wall oil will be washed off and the excess gas will also get into your oil (ever hear of mercury 4-strokes making oil?). So watch out for this defective design. Ask me how I know. Mercury was no help at all with this and did not acknowledge the horrible design defect. They did offer to sell me a new hose at full price (it turns out its a much higher PSI rated hose than the originals that fail. duh. So anyway, hope this helps someone fix their motor if they have this problem or avoid a manufacturer that has poor designs and offers no help to customers when their defective design causes downtime and damage to the motors they sell. + +Also, if you have a 4-stroke mercury check the air filter. Mine was deteriorating so badly when I touched it the foam crumbled. There are reports of engines sucking in the foam that deteriorates on these again, poorly designed filters. They were replaced with a pricey new P/N(take advantage of a poor design needing replacement) $85 metal element filter that is what should have been there to start with. Glad I caught the air filter issue when fixing the other defect. Prior to my 2006 merc 115 4-stroke I had a reliable 1972 Johnson 50hp that had none of these horrible design issues." +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + I agree Deka does make the best battery. Walmart batteries will cause many issues. + +Click to expand... + + +Autozone tested them. I purchased the new ones at a local Marine Retailer and was pleasantly surprised at price. They were both Deka's, manufactured Aug 2013. And I did use both the Deka Cleaner, and Deka battery Corrosion Inhibitor. I use that stuff on all of my vehicles, and have for more than 10 years now. I love the stuff. I don't do anything with batteries with out it. + +Now, I've got bigger problems. I'm at about 50/50 on runs out with the boat and getting back in under my own power. Today, all was well until I turned the boat off to let my son get in the tube, and I had no power to the starter upon restart. I direct wired the motor to the both batteries (one at a time) bypassing the Perko, and still nothing. Both batteries were showing 12.8 on the handheld meter, and just in case I even tried the new and freshly charged jump pack. NOTHING. + +I'm going to start a new Thread for the remainder of this. I need some help, but slightly different subject. I'm not putting the boat back in the water until I go thru the entire boat myself, and at this point, I want to re-wire it all from front to back so that I'm truly confident and know 100% what I've got.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + I agree Deka does make the best battery. Walmart batteries will cause many issues. + +Click to expand... + + +Autozone tested them. I purchased the new ones at a local Marine Retailer and was pleasantly surprised at price. They were both Deka's, manufactured Aug 2013. And I did use both the Deka Cleaner, and Deka battery Corrosion Inhibitor. I use that stuff on all of my vehicles, and have for more than 10 years now. I love the stuff. I don't do anything with batteries with out it. + +Now, I've got bigger problems. I'm at about 50/50 on runs out with the boat and getting back in under my own power. Today, all was well until I turned the boat off to let my son get in the tube, and I had no power to the starter upon restart. I direct wired the motor to the both batteries (one at a time) bypassing the Perko, and still nothing. Both batteries were showing 12.8 on the handheld meter, and just in case I even tried the new and freshly charged jump pack. NOTHING. + +I'm going to start a new Thread for the remainder of this. I need some help, but slightly different subject. I'm not putting the boat back in the water until I go thru the entire boat myself, and at this point, I want to re-wire it all from front to back so that I'm truly confident and know 100% what I've got.","you can buy military (watertight) connectors - look up ""38999 connectors"" - as one option...size the pins to match the wires and you will be find. + +It would probably be faster to just buy a new engine harness and a matching new instrument panel harness. + +If the engine is pre-ECU, another option is to just make a new harness (from the instrument panel to the engine) and eliminate the connector...if the engine has to be removed, its not that difficult to just disconnect the wire ends...and you never have to worry about the connector pins and sockets corroding..." +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","Was the solenoid clicking when you tried to start, or was there a 'buzzing' noise of any sort?","Was the solenoid clicking when you tried to start, or was there a 'buzzing' noise of any sort?",Good. Have fun with the boat. +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?",dont overlook bad grounding...check that by using a meter plus a visual check...on a 20v dc scale see if you are reading the same from a motor ground on bare metal and the negative post on the battery while engaging the starter(or trying to)... make sure you have the negative lead on the battery post itself and not touching the wiring on the post..you are looking for a voltage drop between the post and motor block...i would try to trouble shoot the failure before rewiring....then after you get the existing problem with a known fix decide on the rewire project...keep in mind that a voltage drop will not show up unless you are drawing current..you will only find a complete open just probing around with a meter with no load..,dont overlook bad grounding...check that by using a meter plus a visual check...on a 20v dc scale see if you are reading the same from a motor ground on bare metal and the negative post on the battery while engaging the starter(or trying to)... make sure you have the negative lead on the battery post itself and not touching the wiring on the post..you are looking for a voltage drop between the post and motor block...i would try to trouble shoot the failure before rewiring....then after you get the existing problem with a known fix decide on the rewire project...keep in mind that a voltage drop will not show up unless you are drawing current..you will only find a complete open just probing around with a meter with no load..,"Tegweni said: + + + + check the primary and secondry resistance on your ignition coils and compare our readings with cdi electronics chart. + +Click to expand... + +Could you supply a link on how to do that as well as a link to the chart you reference? Thanks for the suggestion." +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","aliboy said: + + + + Was the solenoid clicking when you tried to start, or was there a 'buzzing' noise of any sort? + +Click to expand... + + +There was nothing...at first. I was really baffled. I was getting absolutely nothing, anywhere. Gages, lights, nothing. So I removed the Battery switch and direct wired the motor to the battery, and checked the batteries. Both batteries were fully charged. And I even put my jump pack on it just to be sure to see if an extra boost would help. + +Direct wiring it to the battery, I got the ""buzz"" that I normally get from the motor when the key is in the on position. But no more than one ""click"" at the start position. And after that, the buzz was gone, the gages, lights, etc were all out as well. Turn the key to the full off position, And the process just repeated itself. + +On the tow in, I tried to start it again, just cuz I had nothing better to do, and the motor was turning over just fine, no trouble. But no start either...was just turning over. Didn't seem like I was getting any fire. It wasn't flooded, no fuel smell at all...wondering if I was getting any fuel at all. Does the ECM on these shut things off like fuel pump and ignition if it's not getting timing codes from cam/crank sensors similar to the cars of the 90's? + +Was just really bizarre.","aliboy said: + + + + Was the solenoid clicking when you tried to start, or was there a 'buzzing' noise of any sort? + +Click to expand... + + +There was nothing...at first. I was really baffled. I was getting absolutely nothing, anywhere. Gages, lights, nothing. So I removed the Battery switch and direct wired the motor to the battery, and checked the batteries. Both batteries were fully charged. And I even put my jump pack on it just to be sure to see if an extra boost would help. + +Direct wiring it to the battery, I got the ""buzz"" that I normally get from the motor when the key is in the on position. But no more than one ""click"" at the start position. And after that, the buzz was gone, the gages, lights, etc were all out as well. Turn the key to the full off position, And the process just repeated itself. + +On the tow in, I tried to start it again, just cuz I had nothing better to do, and the motor was turning over just fine, no trouble. But no start either...was just turning over. Didn't seem like I was getting any fire. It wasn't flooded, no fuel smell at all...wondering if I was getting any fuel at all. Does the ECM on these shut things off like fuel pump and ignition if it's not getting timing codes from cam/crank sensors similar to the cars of the 90's? + +Was just really bizarre.","But not this one! I was a lost ball in the high weeds on this one! + +Jeff" +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","Can you check the voltage at the solenoid and at starter motor whilst turning it over (or trying to when the fault is present)? My guess is that you might read 12v at the solenoid with the key in the 'on' position, but when you turn the key to 'start' the voltage will drop very low. If so, the fault could be another bad cable end or loose connection in the main power feeds. Note that sometimes an engine will turn over, but the voltage is too low to enable the ECM. This can also be due to a bad cable or connection.","Can you check the voltage at the solenoid and at starter motor whilst turning it over (or trying to when the fault is present)? My guess is that you might read 12v at the solenoid with the key in the 'on' position, but when you turn the key to 'start' the voltage will drop very low. If so, the fault could be another bad cable end or loose connection in the main power feeds. Note that sometimes an engine will turn over, but the voltage is too low to enable the ECM. This can also be due to a bad cable or connection.",Might be better if you described any problems that you are having with your motor. +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","keep in mind that a voltage drop will not show up unless you are drawing current. + +Click to expand... + + W/all due respect pappyson I disagree. I remember studying basic electricity/electronics during radar/missile school in 1969/1970. A corroded wire that has increased in resistance (bascially a giant resistor) will cause a voltage drop from one end to the other when measured from a common ground.","keep in mind that a voltage drop will not show up unless you are drawing current. + +Click to expand... + + W/all due respect pappyson I disagree. I remember studying basic electricity/electronics during radar/missile school in 1969/1970. A corroded wire that has increased in resistance (bascially a giant resistor) will cause a voltage drop from one end to the other when measured from a common ground.",Their fuel came in by barge- the fuel company probably delivered diesel to a customer and then used the same barge to deliver gasoline. +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","guyjg said: + + + + W/all due respect pappyson I disagree. I remember studying basic electricity/electronics during radar/missile school in 1969/1970. A corroded wire that has increased in resistance (bascially a giant resistor) will cause a voltage drop from one end to the other when measured from a common ground. + +Click to expand... + + +guyjg - pappyson is actually correct. The only reason you can measure a voltage drop on a corroded wire is because your meter draws current to make the measurement. Make the same measurement with some type of very high impedance tool and you won't see the volt drop. In this case the OP might measure 12v or so at the solenoid when not trying to start the engine and yet the voltage might drop to almost nothing at the same point as soon as he turns the key and draws significant current.","guyjg said: + + + + W/all due respect pappyson I disagree. I remember studying basic electricity/electronics during radar/missile school in 1969/1970. A corroded wire that has increased in resistance (bascially a giant resistor) will cause a voltage drop from one end to the other when measured from a common ground. + +Click to expand... + + +guyjg - pappyson is actually correct. The only reason you can measure a voltage drop on a corroded wire is because your meter draws current to make the measurement. Make the same measurement with some type of very high impedance tool and you won't see the volt drop. In this case the OP might measure 12v or so at the solenoid when not trying to start the engine and yet the voltage might drop to almost nothing at the same point as soon as he turns the key and draws significant current.",I would seek out a mechanic who works out of his house to avoid paying exorbitant shop rates +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","pappyson is actually correct. The only reason you can measure a voltage drop on a corroded wire is because your meter draws current to make the measurement. + +Click to expand... + + Agreed. + + + + In this case the OP might measure 12v or so at the solenoid when not trying to start the engine and yet the voltage might drop to almost nothing at the same point as soon as he turns the key and draws significant current. + +Click to expand... + + Isn't that because the voltage supply...the battery...loses its stored voltage from the current draw? If the voltage supply is from a regulated supply then wouldn't the voltage remain the same but the current draw increase?","pappyson is actually correct. The only reason you can measure a voltage drop on a corroded wire is because your meter draws current to make the measurement. + +Click to expand... + + Agreed. + + + + In this case the OP might measure 12v or so at the solenoid when not trying to start the engine and yet the voltage might drop to almost nothing at the same point as soon as he turns the key and draws significant current. + +Click to expand... + + Isn't that because the voltage supply...the battery...loses its stored voltage from the current draw? If the voltage supply is from a regulated supply then wouldn't the voltage remain the same but the current draw increase?","The original wood that was in the boat wasn't sealed, coated, anything. Just raw (I assume marine ply) cut to fit, and held down with a few screws into the ribs here and there. Carpet stapled down over top. So, considering that that held up for about 20+ years, I'll just go the same route, but I'll coat the wood with something before I install it. And stainless staples of course. + +Thanks for all the opinions. + +Bill" +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","Spent about 4 hours on the boat today.When I first got there, naturally I tried starting it, and of course, this trailer queen fired right up. Like instantly. *&^%$#@! + +Pulled the battery cables off completely. They're the original (appear to be original) and ridiculously long, #2 from what I can tell. I purchased 8ft of #4 Red and Black (pos and Neg, I know) prior to going to the boat or knowing for sure what size cable was on there, at West Marine (only thing open today and on the way). ICables I bought are a good 4 feet shorter than the cables I took off. I'm thinking I'm OK with what I bought, reduced length and one diameter smaller. + +I didn't get it done as I need a smaller lug for the starter Solenoid (1/4"") everything else was 5/16"" Although I hit the ends with battery corrosion inhibitor before I crimped them, and wrapped them with elec tape, I still want to get shrink wrap and protective boots for them as well. + +At the original Perko 4 way, Both positive cables going to each of the batteries were toast...severely corroded. Interesting thing I found there though...the Positive cables were #2 and the negative cable connecting the two batteries together was only #4. Not sure if that's a big problem or not. Not the way I would have done it though. If anything, I would go one larger, not smaller. + +I did find one 16AWG wire right behind the batteries in the huge bundle, that had a small hole through the shielding and corrosion had all but completely eaten through the wire there. I cut the bad area out and spliced that back to together. Best I can tell, it was the the feed for the Float switch at the bilge. Previous owner did tell me that he added a fwd bilge pump, so I'm guessing that I found where he pierced the shielding to find the hot lead to the bilge. + +I cut every zip tie,l undid every clamp, removed the flex plastic rigging tube, etc...everything I could do to break the wires as loose as possible from the motor along the transom to the battery hold. + +I also removed the enclosure hiding all the wiring from under the dash. The wiring itself looked clean, but geezus was there alot of sawdust and other crud built up laying in the bottom of that enclosure. It was all dry, very dry. No corrosion to speak of. And not the rats nest of wiring that I was expecting either. It was nice and tidy, and ""clean"". + +From the motor, I cleaned every strand of wire, fuel line, control cable, etc. Every one. The rigging tube was packed solid with greasy dirt, sand etc. It came off and out in chunks. The back of the boat was a mess. Nothing was chaffed though. I didn't find any other breaks in the wiring jackets, no corrosion, nothing. + +The battery cable terminal ends at the motor side looked brand new. The battery side didn't look new, but they definitely didn't look bad. + +Once again, I'm baffled. Kinda hard to trouble shoot, when it seems to run just fine, again.","Spent about 4 hours on the boat today.When I first got there, naturally I tried starting it, and of course, this trailer queen fired right up. Like instantly. *&^%$#@! + +Pulled the battery cables off completely. They're the original (appear to be original) and ridiculously long, #2 from what I can tell. I purchased 8ft of #4 Red and Black (pos and Neg, I know) prior to going to the boat or knowing for sure what size cable was on there, at West Marine (only thing open today and on the way). ICables I bought are a good 4 feet shorter than the cables I took off. I'm thinking I'm OK with what I bought, reduced length and one diameter smaller. + +I didn't get it done as I need a smaller lug for the starter Solenoid (1/4"") everything else was 5/16"" Although I hit the ends with battery corrosion inhibitor before I crimped them, and wrapped them with elec tape, I still want to get shrink wrap and protective boots for them as well. + +At the original Perko 4 way, Both positive cables going to each of the batteries were toast...severely corroded. Interesting thing I found there though...the Positive cables were #2 and the negative cable connecting the two batteries together was only #4. Not sure if that's a big problem or not. Not the way I would have done it though. If anything, I would go one larger, not smaller. + +I did find one 16AWG wire right behind the batteries in the huge bundle, that had a small hole through the shielding and corrosion had all but completely eaten through the wire there. I cut the bad area out and spliced that back to together. Best I can tell, it was the the feed for the Float switch at the bilge. Previous owner did tell me that he added a fwd bilge pump, so I'm guessing that I found where he pierced the shielding to find the hot lead to the bilge. + +I cut every zip tie,l undid every clamp, removed the flex plastic rigging tube, etc...everything I could do to break the wires as loose as possible from the motor along the transom to the battery hold. + +I also removed the enclosure hiding all the wiring from under the dash. The wiring itself looked clean, but geezus was there alot of sawdust and other crud built up laying in the bottom of that enclosure. It was all dry, very dry. No corrosion to speak of. And not the rats nest of wiring that I was expecting either. It was nice and tidy, and ""clean"". + +From the motor, I cleaned every strand of wire, fuel line, control cable, etc. Every one. The rigging tube was packed solid with greasy dirt, sand etc. It came off and out in chunks. The back of the boat was a mess. Nothing was chaffed though. I didn't find any other breaks in the wiring jackets, no corrosion, nothing. + +The battery cable terminal ends at the motor side looked brand new. The battery side didn't look new, but they definitely didn't look bad. + +Once again, I'm baffled. Kinda hard to trouble shoot, when it seems to run just fine, again.","johnnygjr said: + + + + From inside of prop next to prop shaft nut outwards to propeller hub + +Click to expand... + + +Ok. If I test it in the bay the saltwater will erase the line right?" +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","In a word, if I understand you correctly, - no. There is an 'electrical law' called ""Ohms Law"". Basically what it says is that the voltage drop through any item (in this case maybe a bad cable connection) equals the Resistance of that item (R) x the current (I). In other words the voltage (V) lost across the bad cable is calculated as V=IxR. So the amount of voltage at the solenoid is the battery voltage ~12.8v less the voltage drop across the cables. Drops too much voltage in the cables and there won't be enough at the engine. This is why you need to use bigger diameter cables (bigger diameter = lower resistance) for longer cable runs or larger engines etc. Hope this makes sense.","In a word, if I understand you correctly, - no. There is an 'electrical law' called ""Ohms Law"". Basically what it says is that the voltage drop through any item (in this case maybe a bad cable connection) equals the Resistance of that item (R) x the current (I). In other words the voltage (V) lost across the bad cable is calculated as V=IxR. So the amount of voltage at the solenoid is the battery voltage ~12.8v less the voltage drop across the cables. Drops too much voltage in the cables and there won't be enough at the engine. This is why you need to use bigger diameter cables (bigger diameter = lower resistance) for longer cable runs or larger engines etc. Hope this makes sense.",Had a 5 foot length of gas line hanging in my garage for siphoning gas out of my boat tanks; hadn't used it in many years; needed to use it and tried to blow thru it to check it; clogged with wasp nest at one end; used a metal rod to poke it open. +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","If your estimates of the old 2AWG cable lengths (24ft total) are about right, and your new 4AWG cables are ~16ft then you will have only lost a very small amount of voltage at the engine (0.1v - 0.3v) when starting. You may lose a little more at the crimps depending how they are done, but should be negligible. Your problems do sound reasonably typical of cable issues, so hopefully all the new cables will get it sorted.","If your estimates of the old 2AWG cable lengths (24ft total) are about right, and your new 4AWG cables are ~16ft then you will have only lost a very small amount of voltage at the engine (0.1v - 0.3v) when starting. You may lose a little more at the crimps depending how they are done, but should be negligible. Your problems do sound reasonably typical of cable issues, so hopefully all the new cables will get it sorted.","I recommend two battery Blue Sea ACR and turning the trailer ski boat On/Off. No more 1, 2 off, all. Also have the boat switch in plain view (easy access). Note: this is a FW environment, if I was back on SW this switch would be placed back in its original location. See the trailer boat electrical diagram in the blue sea marine manual (Page 8?). Good luck" +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?",Chances are the rigging cable supplied by Yamaha for your engine is completely Bad. Wait til you see the price of the new one from Yamaha. This is a common and overlooked problem with these engines causing hard starts. Also your rigging cable may be spliced somewhere in the boat causing all your problems.,Chances are the rigging cable supplied by Yamaha for your engine is completely Bad. Wait til you see the price of the new one from Yamaha. This is a common and overlooked problem with these engines causing hard starts. Also your rigging cable may be spliced somewhere in the boat causing all your problems.,"hi i pulled the plugs and pulled the cord cylinders move find and are not squirting oil out the plug hole +that said i'll try your start suggestion" +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?",Guyjg....it dont really matter if you have a regulated supply...the current will decrease with resistance increase in the load....lets take a corroded negative battery terminal on a boat for example....if you measure from the negative terminal of the battery to the positive terminal from the terminal with no load lets say you read 12.7v...if you move the negative lead from the battery to the block with no load you will still read 12.7...ok...try to turn the motor over and take the same readings and you will see a difference in voltage between the motor ground and the negative post on the battery....no amount of regulation will remove that drop...the current from the battery will decrease compared to a good cable....its like pushing water through a hose with some restriction in it..water flow will drop...the same would apply to the positive side of the battery having a problem except the reading would differ between the starter positive post and the battery positive post... the heat you feel on an corroded cable or connection is because the bad spot has become a resistor..all resistors dissipate heat...a small low wattage resistor would burn up in this situation....actually with a connection you are drawing less current from the battery in most cases..i say most cases because you can blow a fuse if the connectoin is intermittent and you draw an arc..but thats a whole new discussion and unimportant on 99.9 % of our problems...Aliboy is basically correct in his statement that a regular meter draws a very small amount of current when measuring voltage...the better the meter the less current but thats why a regular meter is inaccurate(and will damage) in most electronic circuits and not used....they build expensive meters and oscilloscopes for that purpose...but they would still read the drop in voltage under load...(i know you know all this Guyjg but i figure if i put it up then some who dont understand it will read it),Guyjg....it dont really matter if you have a regulated supply...the current will decrease with resistance increase in the load....lets take a corroded negative battery terminal on a boat for example....if you measure from the negative terminal of the battery to the positive terminal from the terminal with no load lets say you read 12.7v...if you move the negative lead from the battery to the block with no load you will still read 12.7...ok...try to turn the motor over and take the same readings and you will see a difference in voltage between the motor ground and the negative post on the battery....no amount of regulation will remove that drop...the current from the battery will decrease compared to a good cable....its like pushing water through a hose with some restriction in it..water flow will drop...the same would apply to the positive side of the battery having a problem except the reading would differ between the starter positive post and the battery positive post... the heat you feel on an corroded cable or connection is because the bad spot has become a resistor..all resistors dissipate heat...a small low wattage resistor would burn up in this situation....actually with a connection you are drawing less current from the battery in most cases..i say most cases because you can blow a fuse if the connectoin is intermittent and you draw an arc..but thats a whole new discussion and unimportant on 99.9 % of our problems...Aliboy is basically correct in his statement that a regular meter draws a very small amount of current when measuring voltage...the better the meter the less current but thats why a regular meter is inaccurate(and will damage) in most electronic circuits and not used....they build expensive meters and oscilloscopes for that purpose...but they would still read the drop in voltage under load...(i know you know all this Guyjg but i figure if i put it up then some who dont understand it will read it),Yes there are 2 stop pins that are set at about the 3rd hole stopping the motor from fully dropping. +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","Thanks Pappyson, very nice refresher after 43 years.","Thanks Pappyson, very nice refresher after 43 years.","Have you backed out the fuel brass fuel jets on the carbs and checked to see if there is any gumming inside the jets? I'd buy a few cans of jet spray carb cleaner pull the carbs and fully clean them completely. If there is some gumming in any that carb cleaner won't clear run some COPPER wire through the jet to clean it without scratching it (copper is softer than brass). Pull the mechanical fuel pump and see if the diaphram is worn, torn, has a hole, etc. as you can keep it running by squeezing the fuel bulb. + +As far as 85 PSI on the one cylinder - the cylinder probably has some rings going bad and could have some scoring on the cyinder wall(probably caused by a partial clog in the carb feeding that cylinder at some point causing it to run too lean which = not enough fuel (and oil) to properly lubricate the rings. However, others may disagree but I don't think that cylinder is toast as it is still delivering 85 PSI and since you've been running it that way without probs other than the loss of power of late if you're not running offshore (which I doubt in a 15' inflatable) or in an area where you aren't comfortable limping home on 2 cylinders should it totally fail I'd keep running it if you can solve the loss of power problem (though I'd stop pushing it to full throttle and start babying it from now on). + +With some blow-by on that cylinder it's not going to run at peak performance but it wouldn't be the 1st engine to keep on running with a cylinder down on compression for a long time if maintained and not allowed to get worse. IF it's 60HP and only capable of a true 50 HP at this point that's still plenty to move a 15' inflatable! Of course, if money is no object by all means step up to a new 4-stroke and eliminate a worry. I tend to view old 2-strokes like an old straight-6 Chevy 250 that could keep running on lower compression and lower oil pressure for a long, long time. I'd replace the fuel pump diaphram (cheap fix if that's what's causing the problem) but I would not put serious $ into it as far as re-ringing or re-boreing that cylinder as it is a 1998 engine. I'd personally get the fuel flow issue fixed, baby it and keep running run it but that's just me. I'd be interested in hearing what others here have to say." +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","SO from the posts above, I'm guessing that I'm good with the #4 AWG that I purchased? Book at the marine store suggested 6AWG. I went with #4 to be conservative but was thrown when I saw #2 on the boat, with a #4 negative cable connecting the two batteries.","SO from the posts above, I'm guessing that I'm good with the #4 AWG that I purchased? Book at the marine store suggested 6AWG. I went with #4 to be conservative but was thrown when I saw #2 on the boat, with a #4 negative cable connecting the two batteries.",thxx for the input. where the drain plug is....it is all aluminum. that is why i was considering plugging the hole permantly. i didn't know if it was a mandantory item for boats of that size ? +"1992 Aquasport 210 Explorer with 1992 Yamaha 250 TXRQ + +Out on the water all day various starting, stopping, off/on, wake zones, etc. + +about 500 yards or so from the home marina as I slowed down for the ""no wake zone"", the Yami quit. I didn't have enough battery power to start the motor or lift the motor out of the water. Not even a ""click-click-click"". + +2 batteries, both are Walmart Everstarts. When I bought it a month ago, previous owner said ""one battery was 3 years old, the other is 5 years old"". I have no idea which is which. Both the DC and MS batteries are mfg in 2007 though. + +Battery switch was on ""all"" when it died. + +Is a bad battery enough to put a high enough load on the system to kill this motor at idle? I thought that a carbed motor should keep running even if the battery is dead. + +When I pulled the batteries last night, after the tow, the unload, getting the family in the truck, etc, the negative post of the Starting battery was HOT. + +Both batteries were drained but both charged up on the charger at home with no trouble. I'm going to take them up to get them tested anyway, and probably replace them regardless simply due to age. + +But should this have happened?","A simple test is to see how easily the cable will bend at the edge of the crimp, or pull hard on the terminal end and see if the connector moves or pulls right off. If it bends really easily it is probably bad.","A simple test is to see how easily the cable will bend at the edge of the crimp, or pull hard on the terminal end and see if the connector moves or pulls right off. If it bends really easily it is probably bad.","there are seals on the shift shaft, lower water pump cover, prop shaft. If oil leaked as you stated, it could be shift shaft or water pump seals. +If you have no experience doing this, get a manual so you can see. Or..support you local legitimate small business man and let him do the work.." +since i have this motor running good now(hopelfully). this rubber handle unraveled a while back. i have the screw and spring and washers. I have been using the motor without it. i works but is not safe as it will not return the throttle to idle when released. will pinch your hand too. i am about to order another grip. the spring is a compression spring. it doesnt look like it will compress much. considering another one in case it is also bad. this looks tricky. has anyone done this before.,for instance how does the rubber grip fasten to the handle?,for instance how does the rubber grip fasten to the handle?,Check the oil in your lower unit. Could be contaminated with water and have a seized bearing etc. +"Been fighting problems with this motor for years. Have not used it much but recently decided to get it going right. Put kit on carb, cleaned it and replaced diaphram in bottom that was leaking like the devil and hope that was 99.9% of my problems because that quarter sized part was 48$ after tax. i did not replace the air screw needle because i couldn't back it out. it screws out so far then runs out of threads and the head is still recessed where you cant grab it. now i am trying to adjust it (motor running very well) and not noticing hardly any difference no matter which way i turn it. i think i am seeing bits of the o-ring coming out around the screw head when i turn it. any advice appreciated. thanks",thanks for all the help. I used epoxy on the screwdriver and let in set up an pulled it right out. having trouble getting it to run now.,thanks for all the help. I used epoxy on the screwdriver and let in set up an pulled it right out. having trouble getting it to run now.,Open up the cover on the water heater and inspect the wiring connections. Of course you should have the power off. +"Been fighting problems with this motor for years. Have not used it much but recently decided to get it going right. Put kit on carb, cleaned it and replaced diaphram in bottom that was leaking like the devil and hope that was 99.9% of my problems because that quarter sized part was 48$ after tax. i did not replace the air screw needle because i couldn't back it out. it screws out so far then runs out of threads and the head is still recessed where you cant grab it. now i am trying to adjust it (motor running very well) and not noticing hardly any difference no matter which way i turn it. i think i am seeing bits of the o-ring coming out around the screw head when i turn it. any advice appreciated. thanks",this air adjustment needle along with the diaphram in the bottom of the carb were my problems. The o-ring on the air needle was broken down and the orifice may have been partially or intermittently plugged by rubbery trash. this thing is running perfectly now. i have another problem i will start another thread.,this air adjustment needle along with the diaphram in the bottom of the carb were my problems. The o-ring on the air needle was broken down and the orifice may have been partially or intermittently plugged by rubbery trash. this thing is running perfectly now. i have another problem i will start another thread.,''is it possible to find one that doesn't need a lot of work?'' no...a new boat and motor requires a lot of attention...its the nature of the beast....if you use them often its a lot of work..if you dont use them they really go to hell..but everyone should do it at least once....there nothing like letting your house and everything else go to pot while you spend all your time and money doing it..excellent test of a marriage btw... +"2006 4stroke acts like the boat is full of water. Slow to plane. my son, who is a mechanic, says its the ethanol fuel. Anyone else having the same problem? My boat is a 18ft Maverick flats boat.",What do the spark plugs look like? How long have you owned the boat? Is this a new problem? What does the gear oil look like? Is the hull clean? It could be alot of things fuel being one of them. Connect a portable tank of non ethanol fuel and see if performance improves?,What do the spark plugs look like? How long have you owned the boat? Is this a new problem? What does the gear oil look like? Is the hull clean? It could be alot of things fuel being one of them. Connect a portable tank of non ethanol fuel and see if performance improves?,this would be it +"2006 4stroke acts like the boat is full of water. Slow to plane. my son, who is a mechanic, says its the ethanol fuel. Anyone else having the same problem? My boat is a 18ft Maverick flats boat.",Haven't checked the plugs yet. Hull clean. new problem. Boat has been sitting for 3 weeks,Haven't checked the plugs yet. Hull clean. new problem. Boat has been sitting for 3 weeks,Depends on the type of boating you do.----Salt water / warm water / ice cold water / muddy water.----But change it at least once every 5 years ! +"2006 4stroke acts like the boat is full of water. Slow to plane. my son, who is a mechanic, says its the ethanol fuel. Anyone else having the same problem? My boat is a 18ft Maverick flats boat.","[email protected] said: + + + + Haven't checked the plugs yet. Hull clean. new problem. Boat has been sitting for 3 weeks + +Click to expand... + + +I haven't checked the plugs yet but I'm going to change them anyway. What do you recommend?","[email protected] said: + + + + Haven't checked the plugs yet. Hull clean. new problem. Boat has been sitting for 3 weeks + +Click to expand... + + +I haven't checked the plugs yet but I'm going to change them anyway. What do you recommend?",The 10 PSI is a concern.-----Was it a blown head gasket ?----Scored cylinder ?-----Might have to take motor apart for a complete evaluation!! +"2006 4stroke acts like the boat is full of water. Slow to plane. my son, who is a mechanic, says its the ethanol fuel. Anyone else having the same problem? My boat is a 18ft Maverick flats boat.",Yea give the motor a good once over. Check compression and spark gap with a open air spark gap tester. It should jump a 7/16 gap with a brite blue snap. New plugs never hurt but a good diagnostic will eliminate any variables. It must have good compression and spark then you can focus on spark advance and fuel delivery. Eliminate any variables.,Yea give the motor a good once over. Check compression and spark gap with a open air spark gap tester. It should jump a 7/16 gap with a brite blue snap. New plugs never hurt but a good diagnostic will eliminate any variables. It must have good compression and spark then you can focus on spark advance and fuel delivery. Eliminate any variables.,I have a different problem but will try and help. Take this all with a GRAIN OF SALT. I would test pump by itself by taking 12vdc directly to pump. On my boat I would disconnect plug by boat resevuior and take 12 to brown + and blue - wires. If pump runs I would disconnect the oil line to see if there is flow. I believe there may be sevral splice points in the oil line to disconnect to view oil flow. No flow clogged line or filter or bad pump. Yes oil flow - check 12vdc at plug- yes 12vdc at plug (which I think is designed to be there at all times) check ground. I believe the ground is what starts and stops the pump. From what I read the most likely problem is the main float switch in the motor oil resevuior. This float has 3 internal switches. Top shuts off pump. It may be stuck in the top position. Middle starts pump to fill to top. Bottom gives alarms and reduces RPM's. Buy a manual and start reading. +"2006 4stroke acts like the boat is full of water. Slow to plane. my son, who is a mechanic, says its the ethanol fuel. Anyone else having the same problem? My boat is a 18ft Maverick flats boat.",Need to unstrap the trailer from the boat after you launch it,Need to unstrap the trailer from the boat after you launch it,"Hi Russ, Yes, very easy but be sure to incorporate an On/Off switch between your inverter and the battery. Place the switch in a convenient position, if you are using a single line switch then connect it to your positive (red) line. Although most inverters have a built in switch it is best to be safe than sorry. +regards, Eric" +"Hi Guys! + + +Need a little help, I recently brought a small 18ft/5.5m speedboat with a Yamaha 2 Stroke 150hp Auto Lube Outboard, I use this mostly in England UK, it has a 40L/8.8Gallon petrol tank, and I get about 15-18 miles out of it on water. Petrol prices are not cheep over here, so I was wondering if I can run ""spoilt"" petrol/gas in it? Spoilt being gas/petrol mixed with diesel? as I might be able to get hold of spoilt gas very cheaply, hence the upkeep would be much more affordable. + + +The engine in question: +https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j89ylo2yz..._2008.jpg?dl=0 +https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4uecz6z09..._2009.jpg?dl=0 + + +Thanks for any help you guys can give me!",No you cannot run any kind of diesel in that motor. You will have to stick with straight gas. I would be surprised if it even ran halfway decent with that mix.,No you cannot run any kind of diesel in that motor. You will have to stick with straight gas. I would be surprised if it even ran halfway decent with that mix.,If any water is coming out of the carb do not run the engine any further. I would actually spray some fog oil in the carbs while cranking it over. Call a mechanic. Sounds like the carbs are fouled and need to be serviced. Also sounds like there is water in the fuel. +"Hi Guys! + + +Need a little help, I recently brought a small 18ft/5.5m speedboat with a Yamaha 2 Stroke 150hp Auto Lube Outboard, I use this mostly in England UK, it has a 40L/8.8Gallon petrol tank, and I get about 15-18 miles out of it on water. Petrol prices are not cheep over here, so I was wondering if I can run ""spoilt"" petrol/gas in it? Spoilt being gas/petrol mixed with diesel? as I might be able to get hold of spoilt gas very cheaply, hence the upkeep would be much more affordable. + + +The engine in question: +https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j89ylo2yz..._2008.jpg?dl=0 +https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4uecz6z09..._2009.jpg?dl=0 + + +Thanks for any help you guys can give me!",If you want to save fuel never run it WOT. With the engine off in forward gear advance the throttle to max timing advance and put a mark on the controls. You should get your best economy at that point and keep it at 87 octane rating.,If you want to save fuel never run it WOT. With the engine off in forward gear advance the throttle to max timing advance and put a mark on the controls. You should get your best economy at that point and keep it at 87 octane rating.,"You think I'm OK to run the motor the rest of the year? + +So to prevent this I need to run at WOT more often? + +Yes and yes ! + +Click to expand..." +"Hi Guys! + + +Need a little help, I recently brought a small 18ft/5.5m speedboat with a Yamaha 2 Stroke 150hp Auto Lube Outboard, I use this mostly in England UK, it has a 40L/8.8Gallon petrol tank, and I get about 15-18 miles out of it on water. Petrol prices are not cheep over here, so I was wondering if I can run ""spoilt"" petrol/gas in it? Spoilt being gas/petrol mixed with diesel? as I might be able to get hold of spoilt gas very cheaply, hence the upkeep would be much more affordable. + + +The engine in question: +https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j89ylo2yz..._2008.jpg?dl=0 +https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4uecz6z09..._2009.jpg?dl=0 + + +Thanks for any help you guys can give me!","Unfortunately UK has 95 as the lowest octane you can buy, even with the barrel prices at the lowest with in 12 years, a price of 1 litter of 95 is £1 which is $1.47 = $6.61 a Gallon + +This means it's costing me $58 a full tank to go 15 - 18 miles on it, I've got to find a way in running this more cheaply or unfortunately I'm going to have to sell it","Unfortunately UK has 95 as the lowest octane you can buy, even with the barrel prices at the lowest with in 12 years, a price of 1 litter of 95 is £1 which is $1.47 = $6.61 a Gallon + +This means it's costing me $58 a full tank to go 15 - 18 miles on it, I've got to find a way in running this more cheaply or unfortunately I'm going to have to sell it",Not really sure. I got the motor pretty cheap from a guy that couldn't get it running and I'm just trying to figure it out. +"Hi Guys! + + +Need a little help, I recently brought a small 18ft/5.5m speedboat with a Yamaha 2 Stroke 150hp Auto Lube Outboard, I use this mostly in England UK, it has a 40L/8.8Gallon petrol tank, and I get about 15-18 miles out of it on water. Petrol prices are not cheep over here, so I was wondering if I can run ""spoilt"" petrol/gas in it? Spoilt being gas/petrol mixed with diesel? as I might be able to get hold of spoilt gas very cheaply, hence the upkeep would be much more affordable. + + +The engine in question: +https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j89ylo2yz..._2008.jpg?dl=0 +https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4uecz6z09..._2009.jpg?dl=0 + + +Thanks for any help you guys can give me!","How long have you owned the boat? All you can do is slow down, try different trim angles and shift weight in the boat. You should find the sweet spot with your setup. Is the motor running close to 100%, the hull clean and the prop in good shape? Just take your time and enjoy your time on the water a good little kicker might help depending what you use it for.","How long have you owned the boat? All you can do is slow down, try different trim angles and shift weight in the boat. You should find the sweet spot with your setup. Is the motor running close to 100%, the hull clean and the prop in good shape? Just take your time and enjoy your time on the water a good little kicker might help depending what you use it for.","I was thinking the same , If my start battery happens to be low I could put jumper cables under a seat and use the deep cycle to start. They are both new batteries so if I keep them charged I should never need to jump or use a switch." +"Hi Guys! + + +Need a little help, I recently brought a small 18ft/5.5m speedboat with a Yamaha 2 Stroke 150hp Auto Lube Outboard, I use this mostly in England UK, it has a 40L/8.8Gallon petrol tank, and I get about 15-18 miles out of it on water. Petrol prices are not cheep over here, so I was wondering if I can run ""spoilt"" petrol/gas in it? Spoilt being gas/petrol mixed with diesel? as I might be able to get hold of spoilt gas very cheaply, hence the upkeep would be much more affordable. + + +The engine in question: +https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j89ylo2yz..._2008.jpg?dl=0 +https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4uecz6z09..._2009.jpg?dl=0 + + +Thanks for any help you guys can give me!","You know that since no one in the US has ever heard of ""...Spoilt Gas/Petrol..."", perhaps you should research it a little further with those who know... + +It could be just from a run switching a pipeline system over from pumping diesel to pumping 95 octane. A small amount of diesel wouldn't harm your engine. + +You sure wouldn't run it in your Bentley but might work in your boat. You also couldn't run the typical petrol/oil outboard mix in your Bentley either. + +Around here, there are so many ""Low Speed"" zones (and that's worst case fuel efficiency in a Yamaha 2-cycle) I added a 4-stroke/10 HP Honda to do that work and my overall fuel burn is well below 3 gallons per hour over the past few hundred hours. + +At higher speed, the 2-Stroke Yamaha 90 is equal in fuel efficiency with a 4-Stroke. + +See if you can find an Octane rating for this mix since it may just give your engine a little extra lubrication without any detonation damage. And if it were just a little low (like 84 or so), your high throttle lever spark advance could be moved from 22 degrees (or whatever) to a lower BTDC to prevent any detonation, or you could mix with a little 95 to bring it up to 87. + +During The War, your Grandparents were running their petrol cars on Kerosene (usually called paraffin in the UK, with a timing adjustment) and today, the RAF powers their fastest Jets on Kerosene. (Jet Fuel is just refined kerosene with a little petrol added in some military applications.) +Art","You know that since no one in the US has ever heard of ""...Spoilt Gas/Petrol..."", perhaps you should research it a little further with those who know... + +It could be just from a run switching a pipeline system over from pumping diesel to pumping 95 octane. A small amount of diesel wouldn't harm your engine. + +You sure wouldn't run it in your Bentley but might work in your boat. You also couldn't run the typical petrol/oil outboard mix in your Bentley either. + +Around here, there are so many ""Low Speed"" zones (and that's worst case fuel efficiency in a Yamaha 2-cycle) I added a 4-stroke/10 HP Honda to do that work and my overall fuel burn is well below 3 gallons per hour over the past few hundred hours. + +At higher speed, the 2-Stroke Yamaha 90 is equal in fuel efficiency with a 4-Stroke. + +See if you can find an Octane rating for this mix since it may just give your engine a little extra lubrication without any detonation damage. And if it were just a little low (like 84 or so), your high throttle lever spark advance could be moved from 22 degrees (or whatever) to a lower BTDC to prevent any detonation, or you could mix with a little 95 to bring it up to 87. + +During The War, your Grandparents were running their petrol cars on Kerosene (usually called paraffin in the UK, with a timing adjustment) and today, the RAF powers their fastest Jets on Kerosene. (Jet Fuel is just refined kerosene with a little petrol added in some military applications.) +Art","johnnygjr said: + + + + Use a gps,those speedos are unreliable and will clog again in notime ! Are you running in salt water? + +Click to expand... + + +All True. Knowing what my speed is, is not really of importance to me, I just wanted the gauge to show something other than 00. (and I wanted to conquer the problem!) + +I do not have a GPS, never needed it for where I went for 45 years saltwater fishing (South Florida), since I knew it like the back of my hand and GPS ruined my secret fishing spots by making them easy to find again by any novice that saw me there. People would actually drive right up to me and take the GPS coordinates! + + However, now I have moved to Central Florida, and I'll be dead before the 45 years I need to have the same knowledge of the area, so sooner or later I will have to get GPS. + +Thanks for the response." +"Hi Guys! + + +Need a little help, I recently brought a small 18ft/5.5m speedboat with a Yamaha 2 Stroke 150hp Auto Lube Outboard, I use this mostly in England UK, it has a 40L/8.8Gallon petrol tank, and I get about 15-18 miles out of it on water. Petrol prices are not cheep over here, so I was wondering if I can run ""spoilt"" petrol/gas in it? Spoilt being gas/petrol mixed with diesel? as I might be able to get hold of spoilt gas very cheaply, hence the upkeep would be much more affordable. + + +The engine in question: +https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j89ylo2yz..._2008.jpg?dl=0 +https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4uecz6z09..._2009.jpg?dl=0 + + +Thanks for any help you guys can give me!",A tow-in is going to cost you a lot more than $58!,A tow-in is going to cost you a lot more than $58!,that's another good possible way to do it and then cover it with heat shrink tubing. +"Hi Guys! + + +Need a little help, I recently brought a small 18ft/5.5m speedboat with a Yamaha 2 Stroke 150hp Auto Lube Outboard, I use this mostly in England UK, it has a 40L/8.8Gallon petrol tank, and I get about 15-18 miles out of it on water. Petrol prices are not cheep over here, so I was wondering if I can run ""spoilt"" petrol/gas in it? Spoilt being gas/petrol mixed with diesel? as I might be able to get hold of spoilt gas very cheaply, hence the upkeep would be much more affordable. + + +The engine in question: +https://www.dropbox.com/s/0j89ylo2yz..._2008.jpg?dl=0 +https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4uecz6z09..._2009.jpg?dl=0 + + +Thanks for any help you guys can give me!","Correctly propped and installed, that engine burns 30lph at 4000 rpm. You are either running it too hard, have an installation problem, have a problem with the hull, aren't trimming correctly, or have an engine problem (maybe the LP fuel pump diaphrams).","Correctly propped and installed, that engine burns 30lph at 4000 rpm. You are either running it too hard, have an installation problem, have a problem with the hull, aren't trimming correctly, or have an engine problem (maybe the LP fuel pump diaphrams).","dward said: + + + + On the hard start when warm problem, the 04 and 05 F150s have a starting when warm problem that Yamaha put a bulletin and ""fix"" on, but only if the owner brought it in. The repair was covered under warranty, so now it won't be covered any more. I have a copy of the bulletin that I can send if you pm an email to send it to. + +Click to expand... + + + +Hi, if you still have this Bulliten, I’d really appreciate if you would forward a copy to me at “[email protected]”. Thanks" +"I have two batteries, one hooked up to the engine and the other hooked to my accessories. The one battery on the engine is being charged by the engine. The other is not. My question is could I hook up the two batteries in Parallel so they are both being charged by the engine ?.Or would this be to much for the engine to handle and cause a problem. I have 2004 150 HPDI engine","It is possible to charge two batteries off of one engine. Take a look at Blue Sea Systems' products such as this one: + +https://www.bluesea.com/products/7649/Mini_Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_65A + +There are lots of good wiring diagrams on the Blue Sea site.","It is possible to charge two batteries off of one engine. Take a look at Blue Sea Systems' products such as this one: + +https://www.bluesea.com/products/7649/Mini_Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_65A + +There are lots of good wiring diagrams on the Blue Sea site.","""I would go with Kghost on thi + +""I would go with Kghost on this one. I just rebuilt my brakes on a similar sized boat trailer for $300 (new actuator, drums with pads, and lines). No lock out as drums are able to reverse with out maximum braking unless they were installed backwards. The bigger shoe should always point forward. Discs usually have a lock out. If your brakes are 8 years old it's probably time for a new actuator. trailerpartsdepot.com is agood one. Ebay is good too for new parts.""" +"I have two batteries, one hooked up to the engine and the other hooked to my accessories. The one battery on the engine is being charged by the engine. The other is not. My question is could I hook up the two batteries in Parallel so they are both being charged by the engine ?.Or would this be to much for the engine to handle and cause a problem. I have 2004 150 HPDI engine","While its possible, it's much better to go through a battery switch. Or are you needing high amperage for starting? + +If one of two batteries in parallel gets weak, it will take down the other one. + +You could alternate (even/odd days or something) but this way always have a reliable backup. + +You could still always start on #1 if #2 powers electronics and save them from V-Spikes from starting. Ammeter or voltage meter would tell you when to switch to #2, but never go to ""Batteries OFF"" while running. + +Aircraft have an avionics switch which is 'OFF' for engine starting, cars used to turn radios off when key switch went to start position. +Art","While its possible, it's much better to go through a battery switch. Or are you needing high amperage for starting? + +If one of two batteries in parallel gets weak, it will take down the other one. + +You could alternate (even/odd days or something) but this way always have a reliable backup. + +You could still always start on #1 if #2 powers electronics and save them from V-Spikes from starting. Ammeter or voltage meter would tell you when to switch to #2, but never go to ""Batteries OFF"" while running. + +Aircraft have an avionics switch which is 'OFF' for engine starting, cars used to turn radios off when key switch went to start position. +Art",It's been my experience that Gelcoat does not adhere well to marine filler. You may want to consider one of these new epoxy hull paints. I've heard that they actually hold up better than gelcoat and are much easier to repair and paint over. But I have no first-hand experience with the newer ones. +"I have two batteries, one hooked up to the engine and the other hooked to my accessories. The one battery on the engine is being charged by the engine. The other is not. My question is could I hook up the two batteries in Parallel so they are both being charged by the engine ?.Or would this be to much for the engine to handle and cause a problem. I have 2004 150 HPDI engine","absolutely correct on a bad battery taking out the second. best to use a battery switch. also, some electronics do not like the surge when starting, and it is best to not have them on. this can be eliminated with the battery switch.","absolutely correct on a bad battery taking out the second. best to use a battery switch. also, some electronics do not like the surge when starting, and it is best to not have them on. this can be eliminated with the battery switch.","boscoe said: + + + + You say that the choke works. That model does not use a choke. I am confused. + +Click to expand... + + +Oh.....I thought the choke engaged when you pressed the key in and turned the ignition.....i am the one confused...lol" +"I have two batteries, one hooked up to the engine and the other hooked to my accessories. The one battery on the engine is being charged by the engine. The other is not. My question is could I hook up the two batteries in Parallel so they are both being charged by the engine ?.Or would this be to much for the engine to handle and cause a problem. I have 2004 150 HPDI engine","I think the 150 HPDI might have an auxillary charging circuit that you can just connect to the 'house' battery. You may need to buy the cable for it if it isn't installed in your engine already. That would be the best way to do it. Failing that, a BEP, Blue seas etc VSR (voltage sensitive relay) is the next best option.","I think the 150 HPDI might have an auxillary charging circuit that you can just connect to the 'house' battery. You may need to buy the cable for it if it isn't installed in your engine already. That would be the best way to do it. Failing that, a BEP, Blue seas etc VSR (voltage sensitive relay) is the next best option.",Replace the prop ! +"I have two batteries, one hooked up to the engine and the other hooked to my accessories. The one battery on the engine is being charged by the engine. The other is not. My question is could I hook up the two batteries in Parallel so they are both being charged by the engine ?.Or would this be to much for the engine to handle and cause a problem. I have 2004 150 HPDI engine",Thanks guys for your help. I think I will go with the Blue Seas set up .,Thanks guys for your help. I think I will go with the Blue Seas set up .,I checked all connection and they were good. Replaced the start relay. Used it all day and started about 10 to 15 time checked good. So far I have to go with a bad relay ....I hope. But had a another problem that I posted ...never ends +"I have two batteries, one hooked up to the engine and the other hooked to my accessories. The one battery on the engine is being charged by the engine. The other is not. My question is could I hook up the two batteries in Parallel so they are both being charged by the engine ?.Or would this be to much for the engine to handle and cause a problem. I have 2004 150 HPDI engine",Be sure and use the proper fuses you can never add too many fuses in a boat!,Be sure and use the proper fuses you can never add too many fuses in a boat!,"Here is a direct link to your engines carb. Take a look and reply back with the number part or area of where you see the leak. + +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/y...uretor/c1-63035?trail=37994,38237,66840,69393" +"I have two batteries, one hooked up to the engine and the other hooked to my accessories. The one battery on the engine is being charged by the engine. The other is not. My question is could I hook up the two batteries in Parallel so they are both being charged by the engine ?.Or would this be to much for the engine to handle and cause a problem. I have 2004 150 HPDI engine","I have a 1991 Grady White Spirit 175 and they feed 'hot' from Battery Switch into a 40 Amp Circuit Breaker (near switch) ahead of main buss/fuse panel (not controlling engine/starting cables). + +With Battery Select Switch in 'Both' position, you would in effect, have a parallel feed with amperage capacity combined from both batteries. +Art","I have a 1991 Grady White Spirit 175 and they feed 'hot' from Battery Switch into a 40 Amp Circuit Breaker (near switch) ahead of main buss/fuse panel (not controlling engine/starting cables). + +With Battery Select Switch in 'Both' position, you would in effect, have a parallel feed with amperage capacity combined from both batteries. +Art","Ayuh,.... The Sender is adjusted by bendin' it's arm...." +"I have a 2005 75hp Yammy, carburator. Would there be any benefit to upgrading to Iridium spark plugs (or others) from the stock NGK recommended? + +Thanks for your time.",No run what the factory recommends no need to change from that.,No run what the factory recommends no need to change from that.,Those compression numbers are not encouraging for a 4 stroke.-----Test with another gauge with throttle open.-----Perhaps there is a compression release on it too. +"I have a 2005 75hp Yammy, carburator. Would there be any benefit to upgrading to Iridium spark plugs (or others) from the stock NGK recommended? + +Thanks for your time.","Was just curious if it would make a difference. +Thanks","Was just curious if it would make a difference. +Thanks","This INJECTORS remain off Frome starting. I probe them with a led. +I opened the injectors driver unit, don't seems to be bad anything. +I don't know if the ECU turn off this INJECTORS to govern the engine for the sing of some sensor." +"just got a yam 15hp 2 stroke around 1992, +when started theres a noise comming from what sounds like its not out of gear, +if i rev it up it will jump into forward without touching the gear lever, +noise goes away then selected into gear, +is there any adjustment on these or anything to try before i drop the gearcase, +thanks","There should be, my Yamaha 90TLRP has a 'turnbuckle' type adjustment that you adjust to have the gearshift bell crank (under intake manifold) align with an arrow cast into the case. + +Has lower unit been opened recently to replace water pump? Common problems show up with shifting when rod is not properly re-connected. +Art","There should be, my Yamaha 90TLRP has a 'turnbuckle' type adjustment that you adjust to have the gearshift bell crank (under intake manifold) align with an arrow cast into the case. + +Has lower unit been opened recently to replace water pump? Common problems show up with shifting when rod is not properly re-connected. +Art","It looks like the stain on the sole (deck) is only on the portion that is ""no-skid""- is this correct?" +"just got a yam 15hp 2 stroke around 1992, +when started theres a noise comming from what sounds like its not out of gear, +if i rev it up it will jump into forward without touching the gear lever, +noise goes away then selected into gear, +is there any adjustment on these or anything to try before i drop the gearcase, +thanks","cant seem to find any adjustment, +not sure is the gearbox has been off +might try take it off and reinstall it and see if theres anythin else, +thanks","cant seem to find any adjustment, +not sure is the gearbox has been off +might try take it off and reinstall it and see if theres anythin else, +thanks","makomark said: + + + + Looks like the link is a bit short...but the angle of the pic isn't best to determine that. + +when in doubt, remove the link...then center the steering cable and then cent the engine...measure between the holes (where the link drop in) and compare that to the link...if its off by inches, time to find the correct one. + +Click to expand... + + +I did what you suggested. I have a center of motor bracket to center of steering shaft hole is 12 inches. My link rod is 11 inches. Looks like I will need a longer and maybe adjustable link rod. thanks for the help" +"just got a yam 15hp 2 stroke around 1992, +when started theres a noise comming from what sounds like its not out of gear, +if i rev it up it will jump into forward without touching the gear lever, +noise goes away then selected into gear, +is there any adjustment on these or anything to try before i drop the gearcase, +thanks","Since you just got the engine, it would be wise to replace your water pump rubber impeller while you have it open. Here's a Yamaha Factory Service Manual you can read and print. + +Looked like shift rod install on that page, but all your questions should be answered in there. +Art","Since you just got the engine, it would be wise to replace your water pump rubber impeller while you have it open. Here's a Yamaha Factory Service Manual you can read and print. + +Looked like shift rod install on that page, but all your questions should be answered in there. +Art","Looks like that’s fine, as long as there are no corrosion pits or gouges then just rub it down with some scotchbrite." +"just got a yam 15hp 2 stroke around 1992, +when started theres a noise comming from what sounds like its not out of gear, +if i rev it up it will jump into forward without touching the gear lever, +noise goes away then selected into gear, +is there any adjustment on these or anything to try before i drop the gearcase, +thanks","Since you just got the engine, it would be wise to replace your water pump rubber impeller while you have it open. Here's a Yamaha Factory Service Manual you can read and print. + +Can't post a link here to that site, but this post from here has the site linked, just navigate in there to your engine's Yamaha Service Manual. +http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...s-available-online&highlight=boatinfo+library + +You may need to 'zoom out' to see all the library on that site. + + +Looked like shift rod install on page 89 (of 138), but all your questions should be answered in there. +Art","Since you just got the engine, it would be wise to replace your water pump rubber impeller while you have it open. Here's a Yamaha Factory Service Manual you can read and print. + +Can't post a link here to that site, but this post from here has the site linked, just navigate in there to your engine's Yamaha Service Manual. +http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...s-available-online&highlight=boatinfo+library + +You may need to 'zoom out' to see all the library on that site. + + +Looked like shift rod install on page 89 (of 138), but all your questions should be answered in there. +Art",Need help I have a yamaha 2013 90hp 4 stroke motor runs good for about hour and half then buzzer sounds check oil quart low fill up with oil and can run again any sugestion? +"just got a yam 15hp 2 stroke around 1992, +when started theres a noise comming from what sounds like its not out of gear, +if i rev it up it will jump into forward without touching the gear lever, +noise goes away then selected into gear, +is there any adjustment on these or anything to try before i drop the gearcase, +thanks","pilotart said: + + + + Since you just got the engine, it would be wise to replace your water pump rubber impeller while you have it open. Here's a Yamaha Factory Service Manual you can read and print. + +Can't post a link here to that site, but this post from here has the site linked, just navigate in there to your engine's Yamaha Service Manual. +http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...s-available-online&highlight=boatinfo+library + +You may need to 'zoom out' to see all the library on that site. + + +Looked like shift rod install on page 89 (of 138), but all your questions should be answered in there. +Art + +Click to expand... + + +will defo be changing the impeller, +seems kile the gear shifter up at the engine isnt locating into neutral properly, +it i hold it back from centre its completly out of gear but slips forward easy so its like its half ways into forward gear, +will take a look at that online manual , +thanks","pilotart said: + + + + Since you just got the engine, it would be wise to replace your water pump rubber impeller while you have it open. Here's a Yamaha Factory Service Manual you can read and print. + +Can't post a link here to that site, but this post from here has the site linked, just navigate in there to your engine's Yamaha Service Manual. +http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...s-available-online&highlight=boatinfo+library + +You may need to 'zoom out' to see all the library on that site. + + +Looked like shift rod install on page 89 (of 138), but all your questions should be answered in there. +Art + +Click to expand... + + +will defo be changing the impeller, +seems kile the gear shifter up at the engine isnt locating into neutral properly, +it i hold it back from centre its completly out of gear but slips forward easy so its like its half ways into forward gear, +will take a look at that online manual , +thanks","Is this noise normal, or something that needs to be fixed?" +"just got a yam 15hp 2 stroke around 1992, +when started theres a noise comming from what sounds like its not out of gear, +if i rev it up it will jump into forward without touching the gear lever, +noise goes away then selected into gear, +is there any adjustment on these or anything to try before i drop the gearcase, +thanks","result. +dropped the leg and selected reverse before putting it back together. +when linning up the gear selector rod nuts noticed whoever put it back together the last time must of tried to put it together in neutral and the long brass nut wasnt lining up. +well its all together now and no more jumping in and out of gear, +thanks for any help and that site for manuals it really handy, +cheers","result. +dropped the leg and selected reverse before putting it back together. +when linning up the gear selector rod nuts noticed whoever put it back together the last time must of tried to put it together in neutral and the long brass nut wasnt lining up. +well its all together now and no more jumping in and out of gear, +thanks for any help and that site for manuals it really handy, +cheers",I tried. +"just got a yam 15hp 2 stroke around 1992, +when started theres a noise comming from what sounds like its not out of gear, +if i rev it up it will jump into forward without touching the gear lever, +noise goes away then selected into gear, +is there any adjustment on these or anything to try before i drop the gearcase, +thanks","Glad you got it. + +I guess that's an understandable error, for 70 Hp up- you do use Neutral, but for 50 Hp and below, it's Reverse Gear used. +Art","Glad you got it. + +I guess that's an understandable error, for 70 Hp up- you do use Neutral, but for 50 Hp and below, it's Reverse Gear used. +Art","rejesterd said: + + + + Hi. + +If you want to flush it, you should backflush it rather than use the muffs. If you don't have a backflushing adapter, I would install one. Not expensive and easy to do. + +If you get a stiff stream when in the water at speeds slightly above idle, then I would guess your impeller is just fine. + +Click to expand... + +That does not ""backflush"" the motor. What it does in allow for water to be added to the block at the bottom of the motor. The same place to which the water pump provides water. From there the water flows through the block in the normal direction of travel." +"I have an 06 Yamaha 2 stroke, 25hp that is hard to cold start. The carburators were stripped and cleaned, +fuel pump diaphram replaced, new plugs, new fuel line,and fresh fuel . The new bulb will not pump up tight +like it did with the old fuel line, which had a fuel demand "" gagit""on it. + If any one has any advice, I'm all ears.... + Tom","If the bulb wont pump hard check to see that the lever on the enrichener is in the correct position. I may be wrong but it seems to me that if its in the emergency position it will allow some fuel by. + +Did you add fresh fuel to the old or replace all? + +When pumping the bulb are you holding it vertically? Is the arrow on the bulb pointing towards the motor? Did you buy the least expensive fuel line or an OEM one?","If the bulb wont pump hard check to see that the lever on the enrichener is in the correct position. I may be wrong but it seems to me that if its in the emergency position it will allow some fuel by. + +Did you add fresh fuel to the old or replace all? + +When pumping the bulb are you holding it vertically? Is the arrow on the bulb pointing towards the motor? Did you buy the least expensive fuel line or an OEM one?","What is the boat powered by? I ask, because, Mercruiser (if that is the power) has generic wiring diagrams for the engine and instrumentation. If it does have Mercruiser, and you don't have the diagrams, I can send to you. I had an '80 19' Bayliner Eagle, with a 3.0L Merc, that had the wiring all ripped out when I got it. I rewired the engine / instruments / trim, per the Merc drawings, and everything worked fine. The other stuff such as Nav lights, bilge pump, horn, blower, and such, were a piece of cake." +"I have an 06 Yamaha 2 stroke, 25hp that is hard to cold start. The carburators were stripped and cleaned, +fuel pump diaphram replaced, new plugs, new fuel line,and fresh fuel . The new bulb will not pump up tight +like it did with the old fuel line, which had a fuel demand "" gagit""on it. + If any one has any advice, I'm all ears.... + Tom","I used fresh fuel and oil and cleaned the tank also. The new hose and bulb is an Attwood brand. That was the only +choice besides waiting two weeks. + What is the enrichener {choke ?} ?","I used fresh fuel and oil and cleaned the tank also. The new hose and bulb is an Attwood brand. That was the only +choice besides waiting two weeks. + What is the enrichener {choke ?} ?","Vampire69 said: + + + + When I read the voltage to the wire for the alarm, I am getting 8.7 volts. Ground problem possibly? + +Click to expand... + +Where is you ground test lead being applied? + +If the test lead is to a good ground and you are only seeing 8.7 volts on your meter then that is voltage drop. Excessive voltage drop. Find out why. + +If you have low voltage to the warning horn, what about the voltage to the ECU? Low voltage can cause the warning horn to sound in some models. See post #2." +"I have an 06 Yamaha 2 stroke, 25hp that is hard to cold start. The carburators were stripped and cleaned, +fuel pump diaphram replaced, new plugs, new fuel line,and fresh fuel . The new bulb will not pump up tight +like it did with the old fuel line, which had a fuel demand "" gagit""on it. + If any one has any advice, I'm all ears.... + Tom",Atwood bulbs are awful but should work initially anyway. like the first response said when pumping it hold the arrow straight up to the sky. i just learned that recently.,Atwood bulbs are awful but should work initially anyway. like the first response said when pumping it hold the arrow straight up to the sky. i just learned that recently.,"johnnygjr said: + + + + If they were skiing with it,I would think so. There should be a plate on transom or console stating max. HP#of passengers ETC. + +Click to expand... + + +maybe you misunderstand me, i am keen to know if you think that the 100hp motor is not too small? +and if it is, what are the adverse affects of this?" +"im working on a 40 hp yammy. customer asked me to replace impeller. when i removed water pump housing , the impeller was completely disintegrated. i replaced and tested in water tank...all was fine. after a few weeks he called me back and said it wasn't peeing good all the time and that it was steaming. so i pulled thermostat cover ,exhaust plate, and the lower unit to determine the problem...i found nothing wrong with water pump/impeller. there was a piece of rubber lodged in the spring of the thermostat.. found several small pieces in the water passages behind exhaust plate. and a piece in the pee tube...i blew all passages with air , replaced thermostat and reassembled. i took it to the lake today to test and all was good except the steam coming from exhaust ports. is this normal or should i look some more",I would pull the lower and the thermostat cover and back flush. Sounds like some old impellar may be partially block the exhaust housing,I would pull the lower and the thermostat cover and back flush. Sounds like some old impellar may be partially block the exhaust housing,"You didn't describe engine type or set up. But you likely have a short or bad ground in the switch or wiring. To determine which, disconnect the trim wires at the throttle - should be green, blue, and red. Test red to ground to see if you have 12 volts. If so, then shunt red to green - motor should trim down. Shunt red to blue, motor should go up (or that could be vice versa, depending on your motor and how you're wired.) If all that works, you have a bad switch. Sometimes a couple sprays and soaks of WD-40 will fix it. Otherwise, it will need to be replaced, or you can wire in a seperate rocker switch. You can test the switch with a simple continuity check between the red terminal and the blue and green terminals on the switch, depending whether you push the switch to the up position or down position. + +If that does not work, find where those wires go into the trim switch on the motor (or the fuse box - where ever they terminate) and check and clean the connections. If still no joy, check the continuity and resistence of the blue wire and the green wire from the termination point on the motor to the throttle. You should have good continuity and very low resistence. If not, wires need to be repaired or replaced. Follow them from the motor to the throttle and look for breaks, cracks, or corrosion." +"after powering the engine and driving for about 5 minute it start to cut off then i will have to turn it off for about 30 minute. I noticed that this problem occurred in the beginning of winter when there was a sudden drop of temperature, i already tried the following: + +*cleaning carb +*fuel tank +*fuel pump +*fuel tank vent +*water pump +*overheating + +could it be the thermostat ? + +thanks in advance","Welcome matar961 to the Yamaha Forum! + +You didn't mention which model engine you have (I run a 25 yr old 90TLRP and a 30 yr old Honda BF100E and I guess we should include that in our Profile 'signature'). + +By ""...start to cut off..."" do you refer to a reduction in RPM? + +Yamaha's have a ""Self-Protection"" reduction to 2,000-2,200 RPM that is triggered by an overheat sensed or low oil on Oil-Injected models. Other 'triggers' vary by engine models. + +These should be accompanied by an indication in the form of a warning buzzer and indication in the digital Tach. + +"",,,have to turn it off for about 30 minute."" Points to overheat. + +Only problems I've ever had with my Yamaha were Overheat Warnings. + +First was when it was only five years old, caused by a pinhole corrosion leak from top cylinder combustion chamber into inner head water chamber. Due to all the cool water flowing through head's outer water chamber, it did not ""feel"" hot at all... (Takeaway from that was ""Never Ignore an OH Warning"" even if it ""Feels"" cool to touch (or Laser Gun). + +Second (recent) was due to a partial blockage where water exits block into upper chamber exhaust route. Fresh Water Rinse after use and (much later use of) ""Salt Away"" had cooling chamber clean up where Thermostat and Pressure Regulator were located. + +It took a removal of the cylinder head to see this pile of residue (in clumps too large to pass) causing restriction and my decision to also remove exhaust cover opened a real 'can-of-worms' for me. + +You can confirm your Warning Buzzer (with key-switch 'On') by grounding the pink lead from an overheat sensor/s (usually near top of a cylinder head/s) or applying 12 volts to buzzer itself, first method preferred. + +You can confirm integrity of your overheat sensor/s with an OHM Meter and Candy Thermometer in a heating pan of water on your stove. No continuity between pink and black until temperature passes 190f or so (check your engine's Service Manual) and circuit should reopen again as it cools down past 150f. Check your Thermostat/s at same time for opening at 130f or so and minimum rise of valve to 3/16ths"" or so + +You need to have a Service Manual if you want to be involved with your engines health. A minimum would be the Seloc Manual and that would be available in your local Library, purchased on eBay or a local 'used-book' store (where all my 'former' engine/auto SM's went). Clymer's Book is also excellent and the Factory SM for your model should be 'the bible' (it's quoted in those user manuals). Of course SM's for the more recent models can be purchased on this site or your local Marine Supply or Marina/Yamaha Dealer. + +Best of luck with the problem and have a Great Holiday, +Art","Welcome matar961 to the Yamaha Forum! + +You didn't mention which model engine you have (I run a 25 yr old 90TLRP and a 30 yr old Honda BF100E and I guess we should include that in our Profile 'signature'). + +By ""...start to cut off..."" do you refer to a reduction in RPM? + +Yamaha's have a ""Self-Protection"" reduction to 2,000-2,200 RPM that is triggered by an overheat sensed or low oil on Oil-Injected models. Other 'triggers' vary by engine models. + +These should be accompanied by an indication in the form of a warning buzzer and indication in the digital Tach. + +"",,,have to turn it off for about 30 minute."" Points to overheat. + +Only problems I've ever had with my Yamaha were Overheat Warnings. + +First was when it was only five years old, caused by a pinhole corrosion leak from top cylinder combustion chamber into inner head water chamber. Due to all the cool water flowing through head's outer water chamber, it did not ""feel"" hot at all... (Takeaway from that was ""Never Ignore an OH Warning"" even if it ""Feels"" cool to touch (or Laser Gun). + +Second (recent) was due to a partial blockage where water exits block into upper chamber exhaust route. Fresh Water Rinse after use and (much later use of) ""Salt Away"" had cooling chamber clean up where Thermostat and Pressure Regulator were located. + +It took a removal of the cylinder head to see this pile of residue (in clumps too large to pass) causing restriction and my decision to also remove exhaust cover opened a real 'can-of-worms' for me. + +You can confirm your Warning Buzzer (with key-switch 'On') by grounding the pink lead from an overheat sensor/s (usually near top of a cylinder head/s) or applying 12 volts to buzzer itself, first method preferred. + +You can confirm integrity of your overheat sensor/s with an OHM Meter and Candy Thermometer in a heating pan of water on your stove. No continuity between pink and black until temperature passes 190f or so (check your engine's Service Manual) and circuit should reopen again as it cools down past 150f. Check your Thermostat/s at same time for opening at 130f or so and minimum rise of valve to 3/16ths"" or so + +You need to have a Service Manual if you want to be involved with your engines health. A minimum would be the Seloc Manual and that would be available in your local Library, purchased on eBay or a local 'used-book' store (where all my 'former' engine/auto SM's went). Clymer's Book is also excellent and the Factory SM for your model should be 'the bible' (it's quoted in those user manuals). Of course SM's for the more recent models can be purchased on this site or your local Marine Supply or Marina/Yamaha Dealer. + +Best of luck with the problem and have a Great Holiday, +Art",Most manauls idle timing is +/- between 5-7 ATDC i normally find that between TDC and 5 ATDC it works better disconnect the butterfly linkages when you do the timing and use the throttle stop screw for your adjustments .You also need to get the rpm +/- 675 -725 using the stop screw at the bottom carb when the butterfly linkages are reconnected .Also watch the cam butterfly pick up . the WOT timing mark is on the bottom of the flywheel and should line up with the mark on your trigger arm .disconnect the butterfly linkage when you check the WOT timing 21 to 25 degrees use the WOT stop screw to adjust .Air screw 2 / 1/4 turns out. from a slightly seated position. +"after powering the engine and driving for about 5 minute it start to cut off then i will have to turn it off for about 30 minute. I noticed that this problem occurred in the beginning of winter when there was a sudden drop of temperature, i already tried the following: + +*cleaning carb +*fuel tank +*fuel pump +*fuel tank vent +*water pump +*overheating + +could it be the thermostat ? + +thanks in advance","thank you so much Art for all the info!! well it turned out that the problem was from the thermostat, it was clogged and not letting the cooling water into the engine to cool it down. attached is the pic of the old thermostat + + + + +pilotart said: + + + + Welcome matar961 to the Yamaha Forum! + +You didn't mention which model engine you have (I run a 25 yr old 90TLRP and a 30 yr old Honda BF100E and I guess we should include that in our Profile 'signature'). + +By ""...start to cut off..."" do you refer to a reduction in RPM? + +Yamaha's have a ""Self-Protection"" reduction to 2,000-2,200 RPM that is triggered by an overheat sensed or low oil on Oil-Injected models. Other 'triggers' vary by engine models. + +These should be accompanied by an indication in the form of a warning buzzer and indication in the digital Tach. + +"",,,have to turn it off for about 30 minute."" Points to overheat. + +Only problems I've ever had with my Yamaha were Overheat Warnings. + +First was when it was only five years old, caused by a pinhole corrosion leak from top cylinder combustion chamber into inner head water chamber. Due to all the cool water flowing through head's outer water chamber, it did not ""feel"" hot at all... (Takeaway from that was ""Never Ignore an OH Warning"" even if it ""Feels"" cool to touch (or Laser Gun). + +Second (recent) was due to a partial blockage where water exits block into upper chamber exhaust route. Fresh Water Rinse after use and (much later use of) ""Salt Away"" had cooling chamber clean up where Thermostat and Pressure Regulator were located. + +It took a removal of the cylinder head to see this pile of residue (in clumps too large to pass) causing restriction and my decision to also remove exhaust cover opened a real 'can-of-worms' for me. + +You can confirm your Warning Buzzer (with key-switch 'On') by grounding the pink lead from an overheat sensor/s (usually near top of a cylinder head/s) or applying 12 volts to buzzer itself, first method preferred. + +You can confirm integrity of your overheat sensor/s with an OHM Meter and Candy Thermometer in a heating pan of water on your stove. No continuity between pink and black until temperature passes 190f or so (check your engine's Service Manual) and circuit should reopen again as it cools down past 150f. Check your Thermostat/s at same time for opening at 130f or so and minimum rise of valve to 3/16ths"" or so + +You need to have a Service Manual if you want to be involved with your engines health. A minimum would be the Seloc Manual and that would be available in your local Library, purchased on eBay or a local 'used-book' store (where all my 'former' engine/auto SM's went). Clymer's Book is also excellent and the Factory SM for your model should be 'the bible' (it's quoted in those user manuals). Of course SM's for the more recent models can be purchased on this site or your local Marine Supply or Marina/Yamaha Dealer. + +Best of luck with the problem and have a Great Holiday, +Art + +Click to expand...","thank you so much Art for all the info!! well it turned out that the problem was from the thermostat, it was clogged and not letting the cooling water into the engine to cool it down. attached is the pic of the old thermostat + + + + +pilotart said: + + + + Welcome matar961 to the Yamaha Forum! + +You didn't mention which model engine you have (I run a 25 yr old 90TLRP and a 30 yr old Honda BF100E and I guess we should include that in our Profile 'signature'). + +By ""...start to cut off..."" do you refer to a reduction in RPM? + +Yamaha's have a ""Self-Protection"" reduction to 2,000-2,200 RPM that is triggered by an overheat sensed or low oil on Oil-Injected models. Other 'triggers' vary by engine models. + +These should be accompanied by an indication in the form of a warning buzzer and indication in the digital Tach. + +"",,,have to turn it off for about 30 minute."" Points to overheat. + +Only problems I've ever had with my Yamaha were Overheat Warnings. + +First was when it was only five years old, caused by a pinhole corrosion leak from top cylinder combustion chamber into inner head water chamber. Due to all the cool water flowing through head's outer water chamber, it did not ""feel"" hot at all... (Takeaway from that was ""Never Ignore an OH Warning"" even if it ""Feels"" cool to touch (or Laser Gun). + +Second (recent) was due to a partial blockage where water exits block into upper chamber exhaust route. Fresh Water Rinse after use and (much later use of) ""Salt Away"" had cooling chamber clean up where Thermostat and Pressure Regulator were located. + +It took a removal of the cylinder head to see this pile of residue (in clumps too large to pass) causing restriction and my decision to also remove exhaust cover opened a real 'can-of-worms' for me. + +You can confirm your Warning Buzzer (with key-switch 'On') by grounding the pink lead from an overheat sensor/s (usually near top of a cylinder head/s) or applying 12 volts to buzzer itself, first method preferred. + +You can confirm integrity of your overheat sensor/s with an OHM Meter and Candy Thermometer in a heating pan of water on your stove. No continuity between pink and black until temperature passes 190f or so (check your engine's Service Manual) and circuit should reopen again as it cools down past 150f. Check your Thermostat/s at same time for opening at 130f or so and minimum rise of valve to 3/16ths"" or so + +You need to have a Service Manual if you want to be involved with your engines health. A minimum would be the Seloc Manual and that would be available in your local Library, purchased on eBay or a local 'used-book' store (where all my 'former' engine/auto SM's went). Clymer's Book is also excellent and the Factory SM for your model should be 'the bible' (it's quoted in those user manuals). Of course SM's for the more recent models can be purchased on this site or your local Marine Supply or Marina/Yamaha Dealer. + +Best of luck with the problem and have a Great Holiday, +Art + +Click to expand...",Try posting on iboats.com Yamaha section…. They get a little more traffic in the Yamaha section +"after powering the engine and driving for about 5 minute it start to cut off then i will have to turn it off for about 30 minute. I noticed that this problem occurred in the beginning of winter when there was a sudden drop of temperature, i already tried the following: + +*cleaning carb +*fuel tank +*fuel pump +*fuel tank vent +*water pump +*overheating + +could it be the thermostat ? + +thanks in advance","That's good news, thanks for reporting it back. + +If your warning buzzer does not sound when you put 12 volts to it at its under console/panel connections, it's failed and should be taken care of. If it does 'buzz' on test but not on overheat, it's a (pink) wire problem between the buzzer and your sensor. Your OH slowdown pretty-much confirms sensor operation. + +If the buzzer itself is bad, you don't have to buy the Yamaha buzzer, any 12 Volt horn/light/buzzer will do the job using the same hook up. + +Although you can run without it, consider it a safety item which should be operational. +Art","That's good news, thanks for reporting it back. + +If your warning buzzer does not sound when you put 12 volts to it at its under console/panel connections, it's failed and should be taken care of. If it does 'buzz' on test but not on overheat, it's a (pink) wire problem between the buzzer and your sensor. Your OH slowdown pretty-much confirms sensor operation. + +If the buzzer itself is bad, you don't have to buy the Yamaha buzzer, any 12 Volt horn/light/buzzer will do the job using the same hook up. + +Although you can run without it, consider it a safety item which should be operational. +Art","YES YES YES, be patience. Since it's winter time shouldn't be a problem. Let it cure very well. Happy Holidays." +"I changed the impeller back in July and the tale tell is not spraying properly. Please see the video below and let me know what needs to be done to correct the problem. The tale tell sprays good and strong on start up but weakens as the motor warms up. Copy and paste link to see video. + +htts://youtu.be/INKxpviiKJc","Your UTube link does not seem to work. The dot between tu and be may be the problem. + +Why did you change your impeller back in July? Was it to correct a problem similar to your present one?","Your UTube link does not seem to work. The dot between tu and be may be the problem. + +Why did you change your impeller back in July? Was it to correct a problem similar to your present one?",I cant make heads or tails. All the valves move in and back when l apply light pressure to them so it seems that all are in good working conditions. If it was a timing issue the motor would not run as smooth as it did before my teardown. It has to be something under the flywheel or worse case senario a bad crank or piston. It continues to get stuck at the #2 tdc at each turn of the flywheel. +"I changed the impeller back in July and the tale tell is not spraying properly. Please see the video below and let me know what needs to be done to correct the problem. The tale tell sprays good and strong on start up but weakens as the motor warms up. Copy and paste link to see video. + +htts://youtu.be/INKxpviiKJc","lander12 said: + + + + Your UTube link does not seem to work. The dot between tu and be may be the problem. + +Why did you change your impeller back in July? Was it to correct a problem similar to your present one? + +Click to expand... + + +I changed the impeller because my old lower unit had corrosion so i purchased another lower unit and changed the impeller. I inherited the boat which is a 2007 carolina skiff with very low hours on it and the boat has never had any problems. the new link is below. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INKxviiKJc","lander12 said: + + + + Your UTube link does not seem to work. The dot between tu and be may be the problem. + +Why did you change your impeller back in July? Was it to correct a problem similar to your present one? + +Click to expand... + + +I changed the impeller because my old lower unit had corrosion so i purchased another lower unit and changed the impeller. I inherited the boat which is a 2007 carolina skiff with very low hours on it and the boat has never had any problems. the new link is below. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INKxviiKJc","It is most likely an old version of what we know today as a 12 volt Power Port. + +Back in the older days, these were the equivalent of a Cigarette lighter port..... in fact, that is what they were. +Today's Power Port will not accept a Cigarette lighter. + +Why not remove it and replace it with an actual Power Port? +You can use a PP for cell phone charging, spot light, etc. + + +." +"I changed the impeller back in July and the tale tell is not spraying properly. Please see the video below and let me know what needs to be done to correct the problem. The tale tell sprays good and strong on start up but weakens as the motor warms up. Copy and paste link to see video. + +htts://youtu.be/INKxpviiKJc","for some reason, the video is not showing when you click the link but i can see it on my end.","for some reason, the video is not showing when you click the link but i can see it on my end.","ClassicAQ said: + + + +I'd say yamaha is spot on. Since you're familiar w/auto mechanics, if you pulled the transmission pan and found metal shavings bc the customer says they're experiencing transmission issues....same issue here. Plenty of used/rebuilt LUs on ebay/craigslist tho if he's looking to save $$$. + +Click to expand... + +I'd say you could be wrong. I would go so far to say that you are wrong. Not enough facts for you to know one way or the other." +"I changed the impeller back in July and the tale tell is not spraying properly. Please see the video below and let me know what needs to be done to correct the problem. The tale tell sprays good and strong on start up but weakens as the motor warms up. Copy and paste link to see video. + +htts://youtu.be/INKxpviiKJc","lander12 said: + + + + Your UTube link does not seem to work. The dot between tu and be may be the problem. + +Why did you change your impeller back in July? Was it to correct a problem similar to your present one? + +Click to expand... + + +Lander12, try this link here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INKxpviiKJc","lander12 said: + + + + Your UTube link does not seem to work. The dot between tu and be may be the problem. + +Why did you change your impeller back in July? Was it to correct a problem similar to your present one? + +Click to expand... + + +Lander12, try this link here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INKxpviiKJc",Completely normal. Oil pressure is not static. It varies over time. Even at a constant RPM. +"I changed the impeller back in July and the tale tell is not spraying properly. Please see the video below and let me know what needs to be done to correct the problem. The tale tell sprays good and strong on start up but weakens as the motor warms up. Copy and paste link to see video. + +htts://youtu.be/INKxpviiKJc","bigcoaxum said: + + + + I changed the impeller because my old lower unit had corrosion so i purchased another lower unit and changed the impeller. I inherited the boat which is a 2007 carolina skiff with very low hours on it and the boat has never had any problems. + +Did the old lower unit pump water OK- did you first notice the problem after you changed the lower unit and the impeller? If that's the case, then it suggests that your problem is somehow associated with the new lower unit. Are you sure that you changed out the impeller properly? There might also be a crack in the lower unit housing somewhere that opens up as the temperature comes up. + +Click to expand...","bigcoaxum said: + + + + I changed the impeller because my old lower unit had corrosion so i purchased another lower unit and changed the impeller. I inherited the boat which is a 2007 carolina skiff with very low hours on it and the boat has never had any problems. + +Did the old lower unit pump water OK- did you first notice the problem after you changed the lower unit and the impeller? If that's the case, then it suggests that your problem is somehow associated with the new lower unit. Are you sure that you changed out the impeller properly? There might also be a crack in the lower unit housing somewhere that opens up as the temperature comes up. + +Click to expand...","Do you have a fuse block under the dash? From the sounds of it you need to go completely through all the wiring now and add a good fuse block if necessary. You can never have too many fuses and fixing it on the water is alot easier once you know how it is wired. If one switch is bad you need to consider changing them all while your at it. +http://newboatbuilders.com/images/circuit6.jpg" +"So the little vent hose coming off the top of the vapor tank is leaking out fuel into the intake silencer and ultimately out of the engine. +I have the vapor tank out of the engine and assume it's either the float (which appears fine and has no fuel inside it), the float adjustment (which appears fine also), or the needle valve isn't seating for whatever reason (and I'm betting that's probably it). +I have a new needle valve assembly and o-ring, but before I remove the old valve, I wanted to check it. +I was planning on pressurizing the low fuel pump side hose (after pushing the float up to the normal level that it would ride in the tank) and see if the valve leaks. +My question is, what psi should be applied to verify the needle valve is seating properly and not leaking? +Any help would be appreciated!",The engine by the way is a 2004 Yamaha F115 four stroke.,The engine by the way is a 2004 Yamaha F115 four stroke.,"Thanks so much Boscoe! Really appreciate the time and effort to help me out here. Loved the diagram and instructions. I followed your advice and all checked out. I then bypassed my battery cables and went direct to the motor and all good both tilt and motor started so must've been a bad cable. I'm back on the water! thanks again! + + + + +boscoe said: + + + + My idea would be to trouble shoot the electrical system. But first we need to know what has been done and maybe what has not been done. + +Are you talking about both the remote control switch and the engine switch for the trim/tilt relay not working or just the remote control switch? + +When you say that you have power to the trim/tilt relay and the starter motor relay I presume that you mean battery power. That power is unfused. + +You also need power to the control circuit side of the relays. That power comes via the fused red wire that goes to the ten pin harness and up to the key switch and trim switch. Then to the starter motor relay via a brown wire (key turned to the start position) and via a blue or green wire (trim switch pressed up or down) to the trim/tilt relay. + +See if the components are working first. If so, if us know. We can then go from there. + + + + +Click to expand..." +"1998 250 Yamaha outboard. +what would make the motor slowly lose speed/ RPM, and then slowly regain rpm and speed ? +[FONT=arial, sans-serif]and for some reason hitting the trim switch up or down, seems to make the motor regain rpm. I have replaced the trim switch made no difference, completely went through the motor tightened all ground wires, the motor is not dropping any cylinders it's just simply losing rpm, it never stalls or completely loses speed, it will go from about 4900rpm. and drop down as low as 3300 [/FONT]will run there for a few minutes and then slowly start to come up again, ""if you leave it alone"". If I give it gas it will take off but not at full strength. But if I hit my trim switch and ""hold it"", the motor will run correctly most of the time. the rpm symptom seems intermittent and random.[FONT=arial, sans-serif] I have also gone through the full system ! +so it seems to be electrical, I just can't figure out what... thanks for any help ! + + David[/FONT]","David, +I had very similar issues with my '99 250,it turned out to be the stator. One motor went out on me and got it fixed, just 2-weeks later went out fishing and the same thing on the other motor. I first thought is was fuel starvation and changed all filters and rebuilt carbs. No change. As to your RPM gaining /dropping with your trim switch, normal for it to increase when you trim motors up (less drag on props).","David, +I had very similar issues with my '99 250,it turned out to be the stator. One motor went out on me and got it fixed, just 2-weeks later went out fishing and the same thing on the other motor. I first thought is was fuel starvation and changed all filters and rebuilt carbs. No change. As to your RPM gaining /dropping with your trim switch, normal for it to increase when you trim motors up (less drag on props).","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Actually the shift switch is on the engine. The neutral safety switch is in the control box. + +If the ecm does not see the engine started in neutral and shifted into gear while the engine is running it will limit the rpms to around 3000 or less. + +Click to expand... + + + +Again, This is where you should be looking." +"1998 250 Yamaha outboard. +what would make the motor slowly lose speed/ RPM, and then slowly regain rpm and speed ? +[FONT=arial, sans-serif]and for some reason hitting the trim switch up or down, seems to make the motor regain rpm. I have replaced the trim switch made no difference, completely went through the motor tightened all ground wires, the motor is not dropping any cylinders it's just simply losing rpm, it never stalls or completely loses speed, it will go from about 4900rpm. and drop down as low as 3300 [/FONT]will run there for a few minutes and then slowly start to come up again, ""if you leave it alone"". If I give it gas it will take off but not at full strength. But if I hit my trim switch and ""hold it"", the motor will run correctly most of the time. the rpm symptom seems intermittent and random.[FONT=arial, sans-serif] I have also gone through the full system ! +so it seems to be electrical, I just can't figure out what... thanks for any help ! + + David[/FONT]","thank you for your input, I greatly appreciate it ! I do understand trimming the motor up will increase the RPM. But [FONT=arial, sans-serif]hitting ""(and holding)"" the trim switch ""(up or down)"", seems to make the motor regain rpm ! ? I do believe that it is some kind of electrical issue ! +[/FONT]""The stator"" is not something I have considered. That is an odd component to cause such a symptom. can you please explain how the the stator would cause that problem ? + And thank you again. David","thank you for your input, I greatly appreciate it ! I do understand trimming the motor up will increase the RPM. But [FONT=arial, sans-serif]hitting ""(and holding)"" the trim switch ""(up or down)"", seems to make the motor regain rpm ! ? I do believe that it is some kind of electrical issue ! +[/FONT]""The stator"" is not something I have considered. That is an odd component to cause such a symptom. can you please explain how the the stator would cause that problem ? + And thank you again. David","Yeah...that's right...just sand away the original design and pinstripes and repaint the panels ""glossy white"". Rustoleum makes a ""Topside paint"" that I'd like to +try for the blue color panel. + + Thanks!" +"Hello all, I have twin '99 OX66 250's. I just put in new water pumps and all went well until I put her in the water. When I put it in gear, there is a ""knocking /clacking"" noise in the mid-section of the starbd motor. runs great but puzzled at what the heck I broke??? done this countless times and never has this happen. My local mech shop says ""prop chatter"" or a loose bolt in the mid section. Anybody have an idea where to start +Thanks Baitweller",With some Yamahas if you don't push the 'retaining ring' on the top the the water pump housing down hard enough you will get some 'shaft rattle'. When you fit the ring (and the impeller) you should pull up on the shaft and push the ring (and impeller) firmly home at the same time. I haven't had this issue myself but it is well documented in various forums regarding water pump servicing etc.,With some Yamahas if you don't push the 'retaining ring' on the top the the water pump housing down hard enough you will get some 'shaft rattle'. When you fit the ring (and the impeller) you should pull up on the shaft and push the ring (and impeller) firmly home at the same time. I haven't had this issue myself but it is well documented in various forums regarding water pump servicing etc.,"View attachment 20212 +Found a problem in the bottom carburetor. The pilot jet tube has a big crack. + +I removed the carb to check it out. Tried soldering the crack but the solder wouldn't stick and I made it much worse as you can see + +View attachment 20213 + +I bought a brass tube at my local hobby store and tried to copy it. Couldn't really get the exact same diameter but got a close one, the tube is only a little thicker. Drilled out a bit on one end so the jet screw would fit but I couldn't replicate the holes at the bottom like the original because I don't have a table drill... The thing is I also can't figure out what they are for because they end up inside the carb wall as explained below: + + +Now I tried running the engine with the new made pilot and the cilinder fired in idle! So my guess is I did well. The only downside is that the engine is stuttering now when I let go of the throttle after revving up. (It's probably because the engine is now running on 2 cilinders and is out of sync or something) + +Could that be because I didn't replicate the tiny holes? Also tried and tested each cilinder individual and I was able to run on the bottom cilinder only but it's having a hard time. Have to give it more gas, but too much gas will stall the engine while running on the top one only allows me to throttle it up just fine. + +I tried playing with the air mixture screws but I also can't find that sweet spot." +"Hello all, I have twin '99 OX66 250's. I just put in new water pumps and all went well until I put her in the water. When I put it in gear, there is a ""knocking /clacking"" noise in the mid-section of the starbd motor. runs great but puzzled at what the heck I broke??? done this countless times and never has this happen. My local mech shop says ""prop chatter"" or a loose bolt in the mid section. Anybody have an idea where to start +Thanks Baitweller","aliboy: THANK YOU ! I'm going to do it again and see where I messed-up. I hope it's that simple (insert cheap) to fix. +will let all know this weekend. +Baitweller","aliboy: THANK YOU ! I'm going to do it again and see where I messed-up. I hope it's that simple (insert cheap) to fix. +will let all know this weekend. +Baitweller","Here are Steve's (Rot Doctor) comments on why this repair is safe and sane: + +CPES is thinned epoxy. I have no argument there. But is definitely +NOT ""no good"". + +I've read the threads you've given me, and as far as I can tell, +there are several arguments against using thinned epoxies. 1., West +Systems published an article saying not to, 2., I've used thinned +epoxies like Git Rot and they didn't work, and simply, it won't work +(no reason given). + +I'll dismiss the last one, and concentrate on the other two. First, I +agree that Git Rot doesn't work well. There are several reasons, but +I'd like to point out that Git Rot is NOT a thinned epoxy. We +compared Git Rot to our CPES, and found CPES significantly better. +Git Rot doesn't penetrate nearly as well as CPES. We are convinced +that this is the key to a durable repair to rotted wood. + +Secondly, West Systems says that you shouldn't. West Systems is a +great company, if you are not going to use our epoxies, which I feel +have certain advantages over theirs, I have no problem endorsing +their resins. And for the applications that they are discussing in +the article, I would agree. One shouldn't use a thinned epoxy. But in +the article, they are discussing wetting out fiberglass, and coating +good wood. They are *not* talking about treating rotted wood. I would +never advocate using a solvent epoxy to wet out fiberglass. But I am +willing to make an argument for it's use as a primer, especially on +rotted wood, but even on good wood, in many instances. + +Their argument that solvent loaded epoxies extend the full strength +time is valid. But that does not mean that the CPES doesn't provide +benefits which a 100% epoxy cannot provide, especially in rotted +wood. Only that you have to wait longer to get these benefits. + +Various people were arguing that your repair was only a patch, not a +repair, and that it wouldn't last. Again, no reason given. Logically, +I see two reasons that this would be true. First, if the repair +itself was not as strong as the original, then normal use loads would +cause failure. As epoxies are significantly stronger than the +original polyester resins, then given an equal thickness of material, +I can't see how this could be possible. And in my personal +experience, it simply isn't. + +The second reason I can think of is if the rot were to continue +somehow. Technically, even if this were true, then it would be a +failure of the old, un-repaired section, not of the new section. But +even this is unlikely, as the repaired area is no longer a conduit +for moisture to the wood. And even an actively rotting piece of wood +will stop rotting if it is dried out. + +Lastly, someone said that it will fail because you can't use +polyester resin over epoxy resin. And this seems to be a common +belief. But an erroneous one, in our experience. It is true that +polyester resins don't stick to things all that well. But with proper +application, polyesters will stick to cured epoxies as well as they +will stick to any other surface. Perhaps this belief got started due +to putting polyester resin over less than fully cured epoxy. I really +don't know. + +I am going to send you a sample of our fine sawdust, soaked with our +CPES. To me, it is as hard as plywood, or nearly so. It is actually +more comparable to MDF (medium density fiberboard). I feel that it is +quite sufficiently strong for the intended purpose. But you can be +your own judge. Given what you have done, I have every confidence +that your repair will be quite durable. + +It is ridiculous for anyone to say that they *know* that the poly +repair will eventually fail. There is just no way that anyone can +know that for certain. It will fail if the stress of operation +exceeds the bond strength of the repair. Which I do *not* think will +happen. + +I've been doing fiberglass repair since I was 17. Using both +polyester resin and epoxy resin. I've seen the repair job that you +did. And while it would've been a stronger repair using all epoxy +resin, I would be surprised if it ever fails. Sometimes the inner +skin is a structural part of the build. But in your case, the inner +skin was so thin that it's purpose was more for moisture protection +than strength. The structural part of the repair was done with epoxy, +which is much stronger than the original." +"Back in April 1998 I had a severe overheat event, #1 Combustion Chamber had a pinhole corrosion leak into waterjacket and I had to install a New Cylinder Head. + +I wrote in the Logbook at that time, that ""All bolts torqued with OMC Gasket Sealer Compound"". I am positive I used no compound of any kind on the Block, Cylinder Head & Cover or factory (Yamaha 90TR) ""self-sealing"" gaskets. Just the bolts. + +Fast forward 17 years and 200 motor hours and overheat buzzer is back. Lack of frequent use contributing factor no doubt and it's salt water, stored on davits and flushed after use. + +After all the usual ""overheat"" trouble shooting, pulled head and head cover and each and every bolt came out like they were installed yesterday. They were coated with a Maple Syrup colored compound that was still soft and pliable. Head (and Cover) had no corrosion seen this time, but found partial blockage behind head where water exits. (overheat warning only occurred after 'on-plane' speed for five to twenty minutes). + +This blockage material that I had mentioned on the 'Overheat Thread' a few days ago has not been dissolved by white vinegar (in a cup) immersion since that post. + +Now for the Exhaust Cover removal attempt. I had removed it seventeen years ago to look at that #1 piston and rings and would have reinstalled it using the same OMC Gasket Sealer Compound to seal those bolts. Using this sealer would have been on the advice (at least for head bolts) of my very knowledgeable Marine Maintenance Expert at the time (Tad's Marine). This was prior to the existence of these knowledge sharing forums. + +There are eighteen 8 mm bolts exactly the same as the head bolts made from a magnetic stainless alloy, no rust seen on either, just an inch shorter. + +Completely unlike the ease of removing those head bolts, these were super stuck and the sealer was not soft and pliable any more. Seven out of the first thirteen snapped off deep inside, just past thread top. Block photo below shows four of those seven are along side exhaust passage but three are perimeter. + +So it looks like OMC Gasket Sealer Compound is excellent Head Bolt protection but not at all suitable for exhaust covers. + +The lowermost five bolts would be impossible to drill out without removing Power Head, so I used a 'sawz-all' hacksaw and cut their heads off to have the most shank to work with. Should'a sawed six as one just above cowling edge is too low for drill chuck, so I'll be removing Power Head anyway.... + +Photos two and three show inner exhaust cover plate, water jacket side and combustion side (file names were reversed), four is water jacket side of outer cover. I have done no cleanup of these area's at all and it is obvious now that all would have been well if I'd never removed exhaust cover. + +Compression test was down to 70/80/90 and thanks to this post from Johnson/Evinrude Thread: +http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...ersus-normal-engine-noise&p=505060#post505060 +I found that #1 piston has a wristpin or journal bearing issue. + +Photo five shows where I've die-cut threads into standing bolt stub and attempted to remove with two nuts (like you would a stud). Used all the heat available from 'MAP' Torch supplemented with an 1100 degree Heat gun and have gotten the stub to rotate less than five degrees in/out with more pressure than two (or three) nuts could apply. Wish I could weld, but that was my poorest skill in Shop Class. Photo six was just before OH buzzer started happening. + +Cobalt Drill Bit (7/64th"") goes all the way through center of bolts so I can inject Kroil, PB, ATF etc. but looks like I will need 17/64ths to run the 8mm/.125 Tap if I can find where threads start. + +Tad retired and Tad's is now ""THE BOAT HOUSE"" (six locations from Chicago to Naples). They Service (and sell a lot of boats with) Yamaha, but are limited to Evinrude for Re-Power. They also tell me that it's not worthwhile to send block to Machine Shop for re-bore (or bolt extraction) and they just order ""rebuilt"", but then they're not who wants it to last a long time.... + +I am very tempted by this new 'Two-Stroke' Technology and low-speed Fuel Efficiency, but wish they made less noise. + +To repower with Yamaha would require me to order an engine and have it shipped to their shop and they are an 'Approved' Service Facility for Yamaha, just not repower. + +Weight is a concern, my existing Yamaha and its little brother Honda kicker weigh 340# and two standing in back brings a little water in through the scuppers. + +Evinrude 90 (three cylinder) weighs in at 320# and Yamaha's 90 (or their 115) weigh 377#, so I would need to add a larger anchor in the bow to use Yamaha (or any other make). In any case, I will have to lose the security of that second motor. + +I got soured on Automobile Engine's for raw cooled Salt Marine use with my Chevrolet engine'd Mercruiser long ago, but their more silient operation is a big draw for me. + +The Boat is a 1991 Grady White 'Spirit 175' that we bought in 1996 and I added the Honda BF100 'kicker' after that severe overheat event. + +Wish me luck, Art +Art + + + + + + + + + + + +​","Wish the ""edit"" window was open longer. This ""OMC Gasket Sealer"" is still available: +http://www.amazon.com/OMC-Gasket-Sealing-Compound-508235/dp/B004H4HVFC + +I have always (before and after the 1998 incident) used either waterproof grease or an appropriate ""Never Seize"" on Bolts and Nuts with never a problem like this. + +The most popular 'Never Seize' is the Copper formula and that would bring galvanic corrosion to any use around Aluminum. + +They also sell a Graphite formula which works well, but is messy and your Marine Service Tech will hate that you used it. + +Probably the best for exhaust cover bolts would be the ""Aluminum"" formula version Never Seize. + +Hoping for knowledgeable input here before I reach the point (if ever) of reassembly. +Art","Wish the ""edit"" window was open longer. This ""OMC Gasket Sealer"" is still available: +http://www.amazon.com/OMC-Gasket-Sealing-Compound-508235/dp/B004H4HVFC + +I have always (before and after the 1998 incident) used either waterproof grease or an appropriate ""Never Seize"" on Bolts and Nuts with never a problem like this. + +The most popular 'Never Seize' is the Copper formula and that would bring galvanic corrosion to any use around Aluminum. + +They also sell a Graphite formula which works well, but is messy and your Marine Service Tech will hate that you used it. + +Probably the best for exhaust cover bolts would be the ""Aluminum"" formula version Never Seize. + +Hoping for knowledgeable input here before I reach the point (if ever) of reassembly. +Art","If the gear box is in forward gear before dropping the lower unit, it would be near impossible for you to hand turn the crankshaft clockwise as you push down the impeller housing over the impeller. Gear box should be in neutral. + +What year is your engine? If this is your first impeller exchange I highly advise getting yourself a service manual specific to your engine. Even for the most experienced marine mechanic, getting the collar and wave washer on/off can be arduous, as well as extracting a seized woodruff key." +"hi guys new to the forum and somewhat new to owning a boat. never had any problems with my setup before. I've had the boat 3 years now and this is my first issue. left the dock over the weekend and headed out to our first stop. fished for a few with no luck and headed off to our next stop. but this time when I went to go start the engine I had a buzzer going off in the center console. never herd this before. it finally stopped and off I went. got to the next spot fished and picked up a few reds then the bite stopped and was ready to move again. again when I went to start the engine the buzzer was going off and didn't stop this time and when I went to put it in gear to get up on a plane it wanted to kill causing a bad hesitation in the engine. I'm thinking it has to do with the ignition switch or the safety kill switch. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks, Richard","Is this an F115? If so, you could have an oil pressure problem or similar causing the engine to go into 'safe mode'. Have you checked the oil level?","Is this an F115? If so, you could have an oil pressure problem or similar causing the engine to go into 'safe mode'. Have you checked the oil level?","One other thought, if I may, and I'm rather anal on this, so forgive me if you will. + + + + + + +I despise direct battery connections, other than battery POS/NEG cables themselves. +Small wire terminals are prone to corrosion issues when made directly to our batteries. +These also lend themselves to being inadvertantly forgotten when doing battery R&R. +Yes, I know that the factory often sets these up this way! + +We have the near perfect location for these right at the rear of our MBSS (main battery selector switch). +#1 and #2 will be un-interruptible...... the ""common"" will be interruptible. + +We can connect to these (fused of course) and take power from any of these 3 terminals. + + + + + + +If you will notice in my schematic, the O/B Charger leads also connect directly to the #1 and #2 terminals. +This is schematically identical, but avoids the direct battery connections. + +Either works..... it's just a preference of mine! + +." +"hi guys new to the forum and somewhat new to owning a boat. never had any problems with my setup before. I've had the boat 3 years now and this is my first issue. left the dock over the weekend and headed out to our first stop. fished for a few with no luck and headed off to our next stop. but this time when I went to go start the engine I had a buzzer going off in the center console. never herd this before. it finally stopped and off I went. got to the next spot fished and picked up a few reds then the bite stopped and was ready to move again. again when I went to start the engine the buzzer was going off and didn't stop this time and when I went to put it in gear to get up on a plane it wanted to kill causing a bad hesitation in the engine. I'm thinking it has to do with the ignition switch or the safety kill switch. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks, Richard","Is this an F115? If so, you could have an oil pressure problem or similar causing the engine to go into 'safe mode'. Have you checked the oil level? + +We had a similar issue on an F150. That was due to the bad balancer design shredding itself into the oil pan and blocking the oil pickup. No balancer on the F115, but low oil pressure can happen for many reasons.","Is this an F115? If so, you could have an oil pressure problem or similar causing the engine to go into 'safe mode'. Have you checked the oil level? + +We had a similar issue on an F150. That was due to the bad balancer design shredding itself into the oil pan and blocking the oil pickup. No balancer on the F115, but low oil pressure can happen for many reasons.","It is possible to charge two batteries off of one engine. Take a look at Blue Sea Systems' products such as this one: + +https://www.bluesea.com/products/7649/Mini_Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_65A + +There are lots of good wiring diagrams on the Blue Sea site." +"Hi a newbie here so be gentle!! I've got a 96 yam v4 115hp outboard that's overheating when hits 4000 rpm. It started when I didn't start it for 2 months and went out on it increased the revs and the alarm when off and the red thermometer sign came on? When it's cooled down you cruise all day on it along as it doesn't go to 4000 rpm? What I've done so far is inspected my water pump (perfect) , changed the tstats ( old ones where good aswell) ,ran saltaway thru the engine numerous times, checked water intakes (perfect). Had a check about with the temp sensors while running to see which side was setting it off seemed the left side !! Bought a heat temp gun and had it on idle and checked all over the cylinder head for temps and funny enough came up on right side hitting 55 c just above the spark plug , that was the hottest spot with the rest averaging 45 c ? So I was wondering a few things reading about putting rydlyme thru it ? Anyone done this? Anyone know how to properly check the temp sensors to see if they are definitely working? Prv where is it, how to check it? +Is it a simple as cleaning the cylinder heads ( 20 yr old motor thou) +Can anyone point me in the right direction please thanks","I have a 1994 Pro-V 115hp and am new to Yamaha but very familiar with the 1990 115 hp Johnson cooling system. Here's what you've done and my comments: + +1) Inspected my water pump, perfect. (how did you inspect it? Did you look at the impeller? + +5) Bought a heat temp gun and had it on idle and checked all over the cylinder head for temps and funny enough came up on right side hitting 55 c (131F) just above the spark plug , that was the hottest spot with the rest averaging 45c (113F) ? (those temperatures are quite cold, once the engine warms up it should be around 60c (140F) that is what the thermostats are for. You should check the temperature after the engine has run in the real world and see what you get. Try to get the alarm to go off near a shallow area that you can then jump off the boat and use the heat gun) + +6) So I was wondering a few things reading about putting rydlyme thru it ? Anyone done this? (there's other products one can use, I've used on an old diesel tractor what Mercedes Benz uses, Citric acid, but on an outboard I don't think those things work well because the water is getting spit out the engine. and if you put it in a tank the whole outboard is exposed to the acid. The procedure for the diesel tractor engine calls for first filling the cooling system with dishwasher detergent water mix (it does not foam up) and running it 20 minutes after it is warmed up, then draining and testing for no oil in passages. It is a long process even in the closed water cooling system, forget about it for an outboard) + +7)Anyone know how to properly check the temp sensors to see if they are definitely working? Prv where is it, how to check it? (Do the water test described above before you test the sensors. You can isolate the temps if you are right next to the sensor with the gun. By the way, the further the red dot is from the gun the less precise the location is. I put the gun as close to the dot as I can. My gun ETC8380 says it is 3/4"" from pinpoint at 9"" away, and 3.15"" from pinpoint at 38"" away. I put that red dot like one inch away from the gun if I can. I've never removed the Yamaha sensors, on my Johnson they only came out if the cyl head cap was removed, I'm sure Yamaha improved on that. The way I would test the sensor would be to put it against a heated metel plate that your gun says is whatever temp is supposed to set off the alarm. ) + +8) Is it a simple as cleaning the cylinder heads. (I've done it on my 1990 115 Johnson (and other Johnsons) and it looks like the same job on my 1994 Yamaha 115, likely simpler, as Yamaha looks like it copied the Johnson and improved on service hassles (to change the t-stats on a 1990 Johnson 115 one has to remove the entire powerhead, 6 hours labor!), it looks like the head removal job is at worst the same and likely much easier than on the Johnson. On the Johnson 115 you remove the heads and scrape the corrosion off with screw drivers, picks, whatever fits. I take them off and have my 11 year old clean them up, then I give it a few finishing touches, and put everything back together. The diagram for my Yami 115 shows zinc anodes in the heads) + +P.S.- I'm almost at the point of water testing my engine, and will go thoroughly through it with the heat gun before water testing in the real world. That heat gun can save you a lot of unnecessary work.","I have a 1994 Pro-V 115hp and am new to Yamaha but very familiar with the 1990 115 hp Johnson cooling system. Here's what you've done and my comments: + +1) Inspected my water pump, perfect. (how did you inspect it? Did you look at the impeller? + +5) Bought a heat temp gun and had it on idle and checked all over the cylinder head for temps and funny enough came up on right side hitting 55 c (131F) just above the spark plug , that was the hottest spot with the rest averaging 45c (113F) ? (those temperatures are quite cold, once the engine warms up it should be around 60c (140F) that is what the thermostats are for. You should check the temperature after the engine has run in the real world and see what you get. Try to get the alarm to go off near a shallow area that you can then jump off the boat and use the heat gun) + +6) So I was wondering a few things reading about putting rydlyme thru it ? Anyone done this? (there's other products one can use, I've used on an old diesel tractor what Mercedes Benz uses, Citric acid, but on an outboard I don't think those things work well because the water is getting spit out the engine. and if you put it in a tank the whole outboard is exposed to the acid. The procedure for the diesel tractor engine calls for first filling the cooling system with dishwasher detergent water mix (it does not foam up) and running it 20 minutes after it is warmed up, then draining and testing for no oil in passages. It is a long process even in the closed water cooling system, forget about it for an outboard) + +7)Anyone know how to properly check the temp sensors to see if they are definitely working? Prv where is it, how to check it? (Do the water test described above before you test the sensors. You can isolate the temps if you are right next to the sensor with the gun. By the way, the further the red dot is from the gun the less precise the location is. I put the gun as close to the dot as I can. My gun ETC8380 says it is 3/4"" from pinpoint at 9"" away, and 3.15"" from pinpoint at 38"" away. I put that red dot like one inch away from the gun if I can. I've never removed the Yamaha sensors, on my Johnson they only came out if the cyl head cap was removed, I'm sure Yamaha improved on that. The way I would test the sensor would be to put it against a heated metel plate that your gun says is whatever temp is supposed to set off the alarm. ) + +8) Is it a simple as cleaning the cylinder heads. (I've done it on my 1990 115 Johnson (and other Johnsons) and it looks like the same job on my 1994 Yamaha 115, likely simpler, as Yamaha looks like it copied the Johnson and improved on service hassles (to change the t-stats on a 1990 Johnson 115 one has to remove the entire powerhead, 6 hours labor!), it looks like the head removal job is at worst the same and likely much easier than on the Johnson. On the Johnson 115 you remove the heads and scrape the corrosion off with screw drivers, picks, whatever fits. I take them off and have my 11 year old clean them up, then I give it a few finishing touches, and put everything back together. The diagram for my Yami 115 shows zinc anodes in the heads) + +P.S.- I'm almost at the point of water testing my engine, and will go thoroughly through it with the heat gun before water testing in the real world. That heat gun can save you a lot of unnecessary work.","Thank you for your response. The #4 carb is missing. It is a new carb. We have a manometer. Is there an inherent problem with the 2004 50 hp Yamaha motors model no. T50TLRC? We have adjusted the hex bolt, etc. Still cannot figure out why it is missing. Thank you for your help." +"Hi a newbie here so be gentle!! I've got a 96 yam v4 115hp outboard that's overheating when hits 4000 rpm. It started when I didn't start it for 2 months and went out on it increased the revs and the alarm when off and the red thermometer sign came on? When it's cooled down you cruise all day on it along as it doesn't go to 4000 rpm? What I've done so far is inspected my water pump (perfect) , changed the tstats ( old ones where good aswell) ,ran saltaway thru the engine numerous times, checked water intakes (perfect). Had a check about with the temp sensors while running to see which side was setting it off seemed the left side !! Bought a heat temp gun and had it on idle and checked all over the cylinder head for temps and funny enough came up on right side hitting 55 c just above the spark plug , that was the hottest spot with the rest averaging 45 c ? So I was wondering a few things reading about putting rydlyme thru it ? Anyone done this? Anyone know how to properly check the temp sensors to see if they are definitely working? Prv where is it, how to check it? +Is it a simple as cleaning the cylinder heads ( 20 yr old motor thou) +Can anyone point me in the right direction please thanks","With your V-4, you likely have two overheat Sensors, my 3-Cyl has one, up by Thermostat and an arm under one Thermostat Cover Bolt to keep it in, easy to remove and yellow and black leads to disconnect. + +With an OHM Meter and a Candy Thermometer in a pan on stove, you can confirm continuity happening above 188f and circuit opens again as it cools below 150f. Check your SM for your temp specs. With all that ocean/lake water to draw from, it's not uncommon for most of engine to feel normal on an overheat condition. Never ignore an overtemp based on how it feels, check the sensor and they're usually correct. + +I've done all you have plus and after a few minutes close to 4000RPM (Manatee's 25 MPH Speed Limits) Overtemp sets off. First warning cools quickly and head does not feel hot, second warning does not cool quickly and heat can be felt on head. Just finished three :45 minute plus Salt Away rinses with 20 gallons water with two gallons of Salt Away (heats up the water barrel very hot) and it had no effect on condition. Tomorrow's plan is to do compression check and then pull the head and exhaust plate to look for blockage or voids. Put new head on fifteen years ago due to same symptoms from a pinhole corrosion leak into one Combustion Chamber, head still looks new under head cover, fear it my be my cylinder block's turn now. + +Can run at low speed without overtemp, but higher power settings with a pinhole leak from combustion to water jacket can blow dry a small area in water jacket and cause great damage. +Art","With your V-4, you likely have two overheat Sensors, my 3-Cyl has one, up by Thermostat and an arm under one Thermostat Cover Bolt to keep it in, easy to remove and yellow and black leads to disconnect. + +With an OHM Meter and a Candy Thermometer in a pan on stove, you can confirm continuity happening above 188f and circuit opens again as it cools below 150f. Check your SM for your temp specs. With all that ocean/lake water to draw from, it's not uncommon for most of engine to feel normal on an overheat condition. Never ignore an overtemp based on how it feels, check the sensor and they're usually correct. + +I've done all you have plus and after a few minutes close to 4000RPM (Manatee's 25 MPH Speed Limits) Overtemp sets off. First warning cools quickly and head does not feel hot, second warning does not cool quickly and heat can be felt on head. Just finished three :45 minute plus Salt Away rinses with 20 gallons water with two gallons of Salt Away (heats up the water barrel very hot) and it had no effect on condition. Tomorrow's plan is to do compression check and then pull the head and exhaust plate to look for blockage or voids. Put new head on fifteen years ago due to same symptoms from a pinhole corrosion leak into one Combustion Chamber, head still looks new under head cover, fear it my be my cylinder block's turn now. + +Can run at low speed without overtemp, but higher power settings with a pinhole leak from combustion to water jacket can blow dry a small area in water jacket and cause great damage. +Art","rebelroy11 said: + + + + Just yesterday my oil injection quit working on my '09 Vmax and no alarm. Motor is probably done. So much for best in the biz. Best to get rid of it. Mix it yourself. + +Click to expand... + + +Since you've commented on a thread pertaining to the Yamaha Oil Injection system, I assume your engine utilizes the same system. With that said, the oil injection alarm system will only alert the operator if insufficient oil is sensed in the reserve and/or main oil tank. The alarm does not sense when the oil pump stops functioning. The metered pump is driven by the crankshaft. So as long as the crankshaft is turning the oil pump will deliver oil. It is unlikely and uncommon the pump itself has failed. Though its components can fail. If the oil injection pump stopped delivering oil to the engine for a significant amount of engine hours, surely the level of oil located in the reserve tank would be noticed as to not have dropped in that given number of engine hours. However, if you're not accustomed to eyeballing the reserve tank every now and then, I could understand not noticing your engine not burning oil." +"Hi a newbie here so be gentle!! I've got a 96 yam v4 115hp outboard that's overheating when hits 4000 rpm. It started when I didn't start it for 2 months and went out on it increased the revs and the alarm when off and the red thermometer sign came on? When it's cooled down you cruise all day on it along as it doesn't go to 4000 rpm? What I've done so far is inspected my water pump (perfect) , changed the tstats ( old ones where good aswell) ,ran saltaway thru the engine numerous times, checked water intakes (perfect). Had a check about with the temp sensors while running to see which side was setting it off seemed the left side !! Bought a heat temp gun and had it on idle and checked all over the cylinder head for temps and funny enough came up on right side hitting 55 c just above the spark plug , that was the hottest spot with the rest averaging 45 c ? So I was wondering a few things reading about putting rydlyme thru it ? Anyone done this? Anyone know how to properly check the temp sensors to see if they are definitely working? Prv where is it, how to check it? +Is it a simple as cleaning the cylinder heads ( 20 yr old motor thou) +Can anyone point me in the right direction please thanks","Just a note on cleaning solutions inside aluminum motors. + +Salt Away is a proprietary (secret) formula, but it's basically acid. Some use vinegar (think Walmart sells a 'cleaning' strength version) also acidic and of course the citric acid mentioned. + +Acid won't hurt aluminum, they store acid in aluminum containers, not so with alkaline solutions, they will eat the bottom out of your aluminum bucket overnight. So use caution with dishwasher detergents (think they're base, not acidic) and check what's in Ridalyme before allowing prolonged contact with your aluminum. Their literature says it will dissolve zincs. + +A good thorough rinse following an alkaline type wash might be enough, but I wouldn't allow prolonged contact. +Art","Just a note on cleaning solutions inside aluminum motors. + +Salt Away is a proprietary (secret) formula, but it's basically acid. Some use vinegar (think Walmart sells a 'cleaning' strength version) also acidic and of course the citric acid mentioned. + +Acid won't hurt aluminum, they store acid in aluminum containers, not so with alkaline solutions, they will eat the bottom out of your aluminum bucket overnight. So use caution with dishwasher detergents (think they're base, not acidic) and check what's in Ridalyme before allowing prolonged contact with your aluminum. Their literature says it will dissolve zincs. + +A good thorough rinse following an alkaline type wash might be enough, but I wouldn't allow prolonged contact. +Art","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Can you just convert you present motor to a jet? + +Click to expand... + +This will be the easiest conversion. Here are some examples. +http://outboardjets.com/ +https://jetdoctor.com/jet-drives/jet-drive-kits/ + +I saw different conversion several years ago. The guy had an old 60's fiberglass boat and married the hull of a wrecked jet ski to it. He cut the bottom off the jet ski to give him the motor mounts, pump tunnel, jet drive, and transom. Then he cut the appropriately sized hole in the bottom of the boat and fiberglassed them together. If you're adventurous and good at cutting and glassing you could give this a try. + +For a 19' boat you'd have to find a large 3-seat jet ski to use as the donor. Something along the lines of a 3-cylinder engine probably in the 1300cc to 1500cc range that will output around 130HP to 150HP. That might get your boat close to the performance of your prop driven 120HP outboard, but there's no guarantees. + +This is not the one I saw, but it's the same idea. +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4Ok34JHpfA" +"Hi a newbie here so be gentle!! I've got a 96 yam v4 115hp outboard that's overheating when hits 4000 rpm. It started when I didn't start it for 2 months and went out on it increased the revs and the alarm when off and the red thermometer sign came on? When it's cooled down you cruise all day on it along as it doesn't go to 4000 rpm? What I've done so far is inspected my water pump (perfect) , changed the tstats ( old ones where good aswell) ,ran saltaway thru the engine numerous times, checked water intakes (perfect). Had a check about with the temp sensors while running to see which side was setting it off seemed the left side !! Bought a heat temp gun and had it on idle and checked all over the cylinder head for temps and funny enough came up on right side hitting 55 c just above the spark plug , that was the hottest spot with the rest averaging 45 c ? So I was wondering a few things reading about putting rydlyme thru it ? Anyone done this? Anyone know how to properly check the temp sensors to see if they are definitely working? Prv where is it, how to check it? +Is it a simple as cleaning the cylinder heads ( 20 yr old motor thou) +Can anyone point me in the right direction please thanks","My 90TLR overheat issue was similar to many described here, occurring only after 'on-plane' operation for 5 to 15 minutes. + +In addition to Oil Injection test, Fuel Lines, Filters, Carbs, Fuel Pump, Water Pump and Thermostat, PRV tests, I had pulled the Head Cover to find no visible corrosion, but an offwhite paste buildup at bottom (exit, I think). + +I then did extensive barrel runs with two gallons Salt Away along with twenty gallons of City Water in a 33 gallon plastic trash container. I had to slow idle RPM below 700 after brief runs at higher RPM caused so much suds that I was losing Salt Away, reminded me of Joy in your Dishwasher. + +I did four longer runs 30 to an hour), heating the barrel (and engine) hotter than you could place your hand into, final run went up to the 188f Buzzer. + +Water run at 25 Knots showed no improvement at all. + +Then pulled the head and saw clean water jackets around cylinders but a pile of crumbled *oxide* built up in the two lower, larger passageways (exits I think, cooling flow chart is not in any Manual I have or found online). A quick dig with small screwdriver pulled a 1/4 to 1/3 cup into a paper towel and I'm now sure (again) that this blockage will have been the cause of the issue. + +I poured straight white vinegar in the cup and it got a little cloudy but did not seem to dissolve the *crud*, will report if 'Finish' DWD or Clorox TBC has any effect but don't think I would allow that stuff in my engine. Expect Salt Away will be great to prevent corrosion (see OH DOT report) and keep an engine clean, but my condition required disassemble to remove (dig out). + +I will clean more thoroughly with cylinder brushes and a pressure washer and will also try and remove the Exhaust Cover to clean in there as well. + +Expect a week to ten days for gaskets/bolts delivery, but I will post back (New Thread) on results +Art","My 90TLR overheat issue was similar to many described here, occurring only after 'on-plane' operation for 5 to 15 minutes. + +In addition to Oil Injection test, Fuel Lines, Filters, Carbs, Fuel Pump, Water Pump and Thermostat, PRV tests, I had pulled the Head Cover to find no visible corrosion, but an offwhite paste buildup at bottom (exit, I think). + +I then did extensive barrel runs with two gallons Salt Away along with twenty gallons of City Water in a 33 gallon plastic trash container. I had to slow idle RPM below 700 after brief runs at higher RPM caused so much suds that I was losing Salt Away, reminded me of Joy in your Dishwasher. + +I did four longer runs 30 to an hour), heating the barrel (and engine) hotter than you could place your hand into, final run went up to the 188f Buzzer. + +Water run at 25 Knots showed no improvement at all. + +Then pulled the head and saw clean water jackets around cylinders but a pile of crumbled *oxide* built up in the two lower, larger passageways (exits I think, cooling flow chart is not in any Manual I have or found online). A quick dig with small screwdriver pulled a 1/4 to 1/3 cup into a paper towel and I'm now sure (again) that this blockage will have been the cause of the issue. + +I poured straight white vinegar in the cup and it got a little cloudy but did not seem to dissolve the *crud*, will report if 'Finish' DWD or Clorox TBC has any effect but don't think I would allow that stuff in my engine. Expect Salt Away will be great to prevent corrosion (see OH DOT report) and keep an engine clean, but my condition required disassemble to remove (dig out). + +I will clean more thoroughly with cylinder brushes and a pressure washer and will also try and remove the Exhaust Cover to clean in there as well. + +Expect a week to ten days for gaskets/bolts delivery, but I will post back (New Thread) on results +Art","rejesterd said: + + + + I would still look at the impeller and take some pictures for us. The impeller and it's base plate should look almost pristine.. no deformation in the fins and no gouges on the plate. To me, that's the most likely issue. Next time you get the warning, make sure the pee stream is actually hot. If it's cool or only slightly warm to the touch, it's probably not overheating and you have a bad thermoswitch or CDI unit. + +Click to expand... + +The thing that makes me think that the engine IS getting hot is that when the buzzer went off, the engine started running poorly. (missing)." +"I have a 1995, 225hp salt-water series Yamaha. So far I have had the motor rebuilt because it had seized. After that it still did not run properly and was told it needed a new CDI which I purchased and had installed, then it was dirty fuel so I had that replaced, it still did not work correctly. Next I was told the spark plugs and leads were the problem and these were replaced, but the problems still exists. The problem is that on the ear muffs the motor runs fine revs out really well, but the moment it goes into the water it will not rev past 2000 rpm. Any suggestions on what I can look for or try myself before I let another boat mechanic near it and I spend another obscene amount of money not getting the problem repaired? Thanks for any suggestions","Is the engine missing and running rough, or just won't run up past 200 rpm? +First thing is to do a compression check. That takes care of one of the most basic issues that could cause your problem. If compressions are good, how are the fuel pumps? If they are good, how are the carbs? Need to check all those things before getting into the next phases.","Is the engine missing and running rough, or just won't run up past 200 rpm? +First thing is to do a compression check. That takes care of one of the most basic issues that could cause your problem. If compressions are good, how are the fuel pumps? If they are good, how are the carbs? Need to check all those things before getting into the next phases.",Need to do a fuel system pressure check. If fuel pressure is to specifications then I would have someone mist some gasoline into the intake when it starts to bog down. If it picks up and runs I would suspect the fuel injectors need to be cleaned. +"I have a 1995, 225hp salt-water series Yamaha. So far I have had the motor rebuilt because it had seized. After that it still did not run properly and was told it needed a new CDI which I purchased and had installed, then it was dirty fuel so I had that replaced, it still did not work correctly. Next I was told the spark plugs and leads were the problem and these were replaced, but the problems still exists. The problem is that on the ear muffs the motor runs fine revs out really well, but the moment it goes into the water it will not rev past 2000 rpm. Any suggestions on what I can look for or try myself before I let another boat mechanic near it and I spend another obscene amount of money not getting the problem repaired? Thanks for any suggestions","aliboy said: + + + + Is the engine missing and running rough, or just won't run up past 200 rpm? +First thing is to do a compression check. That takes care of one of the most basic issues that could cause your problem. If compressions are good, how are the fuel pumps? If they are good, how are the carbs? Need to check all those things before getting into the next phases. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi thanks for your suggestions. The engine is fine on the muffs, but when put in the water won't rev past 2000 almost like it is limp home mode. Compression 115 to 120","aliboy said: + + + + Is the engine missing and running rough, or just won't run up past 200 rpm? +First thing is to do a compression check. That takes care of one of the most basic issues that could cause your problem. If compressions are good, how are the fuel pumps? If they are good, how are the carbs? Need to check all those things before getting into the next phases. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi thanks for your suggestions. The engine is fine on the muffs, but when put in the water won't rev past 2000 almost like it is limp home mode. Compression 115 to 120","Just curious, do you not believe fuel stabilizers work? Thanks for your reply." +"I have a 1995, 225hp salt-water series Yamaha. So far I have had the motor rebuilt because it had seized. After that it still did not run properly and was told it needed a new CDI which I purchased and had installed, then it was dirty fuel so I had that replaced, it still did not work correctly. Next I was told the spark plugs and leads were the problem and these were replaced, but the problems still exists. The problem is that on the ear muffs the motor runs fine revs out really well, but the moment it goes into the water it will not rev past 2000 rpm. Any suggestions on what I can look for or try myself before I let another boat mechanic near it and I spend another obscene amount of money not getting the problem repaired? Thanks for any suggestions","I assume that it is carb'd? If so, I don't believe that it has a 'limp mode'. An engine that is almost completely dead might rev high with no load, but that tells you almost nothing. If it only goes to 2000rpm under load then you have a loss of power issue. Some other things to check - + +Fuel Pumps - (these are a known maintenance item). Unbolt them from the block (2 x 10mm bolts) but leave the hoses connected, and then squeeze the primer bulb whilst watching the pumps. If they leak, the diaphragms are damaged. +Carbs - strip and clean until they look like new using lots of compressed air. If it isn't missing when you run it, the carbs are not so likely. +Timing - has anyone checked that the rebuilder got the timing correct and is the timing advance hooked up properly? + +When you get to 2000 rpm under load, is the engine running rough, or does it run smooth but just not rev any higher? + +Is the boat stored on the water or on land? If on the water, when was the hull last cleaned?","I assume that it is carb'd? If so, I don't believe that it has a 'limp mode'. An engine that is almost completely dead might rev high with no load, but that tells you almost nothing. If it only goes to 2000rpm under load then you have a loss of power issue. Some other things to check - + +Fuel Pumps - (these are a known maintenance item). Unbolt them from the block (2 x 10mm bolts) but leave the hoses connected, and then squeeze the primer bulb whilst watching the pumps. If they leak, the diaphragms are damaged. +Carbs - strip and clean until they look like new using lots of compressed air. If it isn't missing when you run it, the carbs are not so likely. +Timing - has anyone checked that the rebuilder got the timing correct and is the timing advance hooked up properly? + +When you get to 2000 rpm under load, is the engine running rough, or does it run smooth but just not rev any higher? + +Is the boat stored on the water or on land? If on the water, when was the hull last cleaned?","Time and sync the carb? Btw, 40ELRQ is model year 1992." +"I have a 1995, 225hp salt-water series Yamaha. So far I have had the motor rebuilt because it had seized. After that it still did not run properly and was told it needed a new CDI which I purchased and had installed, then it was dirty fuel so I had that replaced, it still did not work correctly. Next I was told the spark plugs and leads were the problem and these were replaced, but the problems still exists. The problem is that on the ear muffs the motor runs fine revs out really well, but the moment it goes into the water it will not rev past 2000 rpm. Any suggestions on what I can look for or try myself before I let another boat mechanic near it and I spend another obscene amount of money not getting the problem repaired? Thanks for any suggestions","Hi and thanks again for your suggestions. The boat is stored out of water on a trailer. When it gets to 2000 rpm under load it starts to run rough. It is a carby model there are 6 of them. I will probably get to the boat this week or early next week and will have a look at the fuel pumps. The timing is something I had not thought of, so thanks again.","Hi and thanks again for your suggestions. The boat is stored out of water on a trailer. When it gets to 2000 rpm under load it starts to run rough. It is a carby model there are 6 of them. I will probably get to the boat this week or early next week and will have a look at the fuel pumps. The timing is something I had not thought of, so thanks again.",What is the model of the motor? +"I have a 1995, 225hp salt-water series Yamaha. So far I have had the motor rebuilt because it had seized. After that it still did not run properly and was told it needed a new CDI which I purchased and had installed, then it was dirty fuel so I had that replaced, it still did not work correctly. Next I was told the spark plugs and leads were the problem and these were replaced, but the problems still exists. The problem is that on the ear muffs the motor runs fine revs out really well, but the moment it goes into the water it will not rev past 2000 rpm. Any suggestions on what I can look for or try myself before I let another boat mechanic near it and I spend another obscene amount of money not getting the problem repaired? Thanks for any suggestions","I have the 90 Hp (1991 and SM for P60P/70P/90P) and while they don't call it ""Limp Home"", they do have a ""Speed Drop Function"" which limits RPM at 2000 RPM and there is a loud warning buzzer to go along with it. + +Two conditions can enable this protection, first is if Oil Tank (float) falls below 1/3 quart remaining and second would be a cylinder overheat (188f+) detected. I believe larger engines also react to an over-rev condition. + +I know nothing about larger Yamaha's, but would expect them all to have this self-protection feature. + +Timing investigation looked like great advice, I found mine was off and correcting it made a huge difference in power available. Outboards don't usually 'lose' timing, but yours has been seriously apart for your rebuild. SM starts by confirming actual TDC1 with marks, setting throttle arms and finally with timing light at 4500+ RPM. Hope you can resolve issue without need to buy more parts. +Art","I have the 90 Hp (1991 and SM for P60P/70P/90P) and while they don't call it ""Limp Home"", they do have a ""Speed Drop Function"" which limits RPM at 2000 RPM and there is a loud warning buzzer to go along with it. + +Two conditions can enable this protection, first is if Oil Tank (float) falls below 1/3 quart remaining and second would be a cylinder overheat (188f+) detected. I believe larger engines also react to an over-rev condition. + +I know nothing about larger Yamaha's, but would expect them all to have this self-protection feature. + +Timing investigation looked like great advice, I found mine was off and correcting it made a huge difference in power available. Outboards don't usually 'lose' timing, but yours has been seriously apart for your rebuild. SM starts by confirming actual TDC1 with marks, setting throttle arms and finally with timing light at 4500+ RPM. Hope you can resolve issue without need to buy more parts. +Art",Wet with fuel or water? +"I have a 1995, 225hp salt-water series Yamaha. So far I have had the motor rebuilt because it had seized. After that it still did not run properly and was told it needed a new CDI which I purchased and had installed, then it was dirty fuel so I had that replaced, it still did not work correctly. Next I was told the spark plugs and leads were the problem and these were replaced, but the problems still exists. The problem is that on the ear muffs the motor runs fine revs out really well, but the moment it goes into the water it will not rev past 2000 rpm. Any suggestions on what I can look for or try myself before I let another boat mechanic near it and I spend another obscene amount of money not getting the problem repaired? Thanks for any suggestions",HI and thanks for your suggestions. It sure looks like the timing maybe some of the problem I'll let you know how I go after I get to the boat.,HI and thanks for your suggestions. It sure looks like the timing maybe some of the problem I'll let you know how I go after I get to the boat.,"Guys, I have that problem on my 1999 2-stroke 150, the gauge just went gaga when raising or lowering the Engine because the little plastic tab that operates the sender was broken and slipping. I ordered the sending unit they sent me the little spring loaded sender and a thing similar to a C clamp with a metal tab on it that I assume operates sender unit shaft. The C clamp device I guess replaces the plastic piece that was broken and slipping on the tilt shaft. Are there any good write ups or you tube procedures for adjusting that thing? I got it kind of close but according to the gauge it is still not displaying the right position of the engine. Is there a procedure in the Yamaha Outboard repair manual to help me? Any help greatly appreciated." +"My engine is down 2 cyls #2 & #5, has good compression-no spark. Carb engine. Moved coils around and miss stayed with 2&5. Had no power on the yellow [email protected] cdi module, traced the harness and found a bad splice. Repaired it and ran new wires. Now I have 12v on the yellow wire but still no spark. Checked resistance of the crank sensor-good, connections good. I have been an auto mechanic for almost 30 yrs and this is boat #4 over the last 25 yrs. Please help",model # S200TXRW if that helps,model # S200TXRW if that helps,on a 14' boat...? I'm with Bondo - too much complication...and too much weight +"My engine is down 2 cyls #2 & #5, has good compression-no spark. Carb engine. Moved coils around and miss stayed with 2&5. Had no power on the yellow [email protected] cdi module, traced the harness and found a bad splice. Repaired it and ran new wires. Now I have 12v on the yellow wire but still no spark. Checked resistance of the crank sensor-good, connections good. I have been an auto mechanic for almost 30 yrs and this is boat #4 over the last 25 yrs. Please help","also realized that the oil transfer pump isn't running. whatever is killing the 2&5 cyls also shut down the pump, will fill with the manual switch","also realized that the oil transfer pump isn't running. whatever is killing the 2&5 cyls also shut down the pump, will fill with the manual switch","Second, Try an open air gap spark test, fully charged battery with plugs out,minimum 200-300 rpms" +"My engine is down 2 cyls #2 & #5, has good compression-no spark. Carb engine. Moved coils around and miss stayed with 2&5. Had no power on the yellow [email protected] cdi module, traced the harness and found a bad splice. Repaired it and ran new wires. Now I have 12v on the yellow wire but still no spark. Checked resistance of the crank sensor-good, connections good. I have been an auto mechanic for almost 30 yrs and this is boat #4 over the last 25 yrs. Please help",I'm having the same problem where you able to fix it,I'm having the same problem where you able to fix it,CDI ELECTRONICS.com +"I have two Yamaha Digital Multifunction gauges, Tach and Speed on a used boat I've been working on. The gauges look like from the 1990's, and they worked fine when I water tested them. Then I started to work on the changing the center console gauges positions and so I disconnected both gauges. I also disconnected all the cables, hoses, and connectors at the engine to run them all through a rigging tube. After I connected everything, the tach does not display any numbers, it only backlights. The Speed gauge has everything working. I connected everything as it was before (and it is according to the wiring diagram I pulled online), but now the tach shows nothing but backlight. Can someone advise me what to do next? I have a good multimeter.","Ok, I got it fixed. I connected the Tach gauge power wire (yellow) and the black ground wire directly to the battery with some alligator clips and wires and it turned on. Went back and tested the connections and found a problem with the ground connector. Fixed it and all is fine now.","Ok, I got it fixed. I connected the Tach gauge power wire (yellow) and the black ground wire directly to the battery with some alligator clips and wires and it turned on. Went back and tested the connections and found a problem with the ground connector. Fixed it and all is fine now.",not familiar with yammies but evinrude and merc has an inline fuse in the wiring harness in the wiring harness under the cowl..20 amp.. +"Our local youth sailing non-profit had this engine donated and we're trying to get it running right. I changed the crankcase oil, checked the lower unit oil, changed the spark plugs, cleaned a bunch of goo out of the carburetor bowl and main jet, put in a carb repair kit, set up a tank with new fuel and have it on a good battery with a hose on muffs for cooling water. I have had the carb apart at least 4 times, running carb cleaner/air/phone wire through all the little passages. It will start easily and run only if the air intake is restricted with a thumb controlling the amount of air flow available. As long as the air intake is restricted and adjusted finely with your thumb the engine runs very nicely. If you crank the throttle up to the high end of the range allowed in neutral it will run just fine, but it will not run at the low end unless the air intake is restricted...any ideas on what I'm missing?","For other's reference, what I was missing was the tiny hole in the end of the pilot jet and the tiny holes in the side of the main jet...jobs for a very small needle after getting both out of the carb and cleaning the outside crud off with a wire wheel...works like a champ now.","For other's reference, what I was missing was the tiny hole in the end of the pilot jet and the tiny holes in the side of the main jet...jobs for a very small needle after getting both out of the carb and cleaning the outside crud off with a wire wheel...works like a champ now.",Should be 2 steps to that sensor. The first kicks in the pump and the second the alarm other wise the alarm would go off every time the pump kicked in. +"I am pulling my hair out.I'll start from the beginning,bought this motor in 04 as a left over 600hrs and NEVER had a problem til the economy tanked and so did my business.So I couldn't afford to use her for a little over two years. I treated the fuel during that time, as recommended. Long story short last Fall when I tried to run her in the river she was bogging down. Everything I read and heard said it was the injectors and it also recommended that a mechanic do the injectors. So in the Spring I sent it to a mechanic who said he cleaned five injectors and replace one, he dumped all the fuel (90 gals) and replaced all fuel filters, water separators and O2 sensors. Got the boat back she ran for 4 miles at 4500 RPMs and then cut down to zero. I've since replaced both low pressure fuel pumps and the high pressure pump in the VST tank. Spark plugs were changed, fuel lines replaced. Now, she gets up on plane but only runs 1/2 mile before completely bogging down. She seems to run with no issues at lower RPMs. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated as I am running low on money and can't keep chasing my tail around. + +As stated earlier, the motor never gave me any problems at all until after she sat for two years without running her.","Hello; +You just about changed everything. You said the engine was sitting for a long time. I may be wrong but I would check or replace your thermostats (two). They could be rusted and one could be closed and getting the engine warm and cutting out a couple cylinders over a set RPMS. I know you changed the filters but I would also check your main filters and see it you got anything in them. Again sitting for a long time you could have dirt collected in the lines . Good luck, flabob","Hello; +You just about changed everything. You said the engine was sitting for a long time. I may be wrong but I would check or replace your thermostats (two). They could be rusted and one could be closed and getting the engine warm and cutting out a couple cylinders over a set RPMS. I know you changed the filters but I would also check your main filters and see it you got anything in them. Again sitting for a long time you could have dirt collected in the lines . Good luck, flabob","Additionally, especially on a 3-4-6 cylinder 2-stroke... You have to keep those carbs clean all the time. You may not notice one cylinder running lean due one of those carbs being 1/2 clogged. You can end up frying a cylinder, cooking your rings, and needing a full re-boring of the block. Been there, done that, and learned the hard way. I moved on to 4 strokes as they are more tollerant of neglect than 2 stroke that doesn't get run all the time. A 2 stroke's worst enemy is lack of use." +"I am pulling my hair out.I'll start from the beginning,bought this motor in 04 as a left over 600hrs and NEVER had a problem til the economy tanked and so did my business.So I couldn't afford to use her for a little over two years. I treated the fuel during that time, as recommended. Long story short last Fall when I tried to run her in the river she was bogging down. Everything I read and heard said it was the injectors and it also recommended that a mechanic do the injectors. So in the Spring I sent it to a mechanic who said he cleaned five injectors and replace one, he dumped all the fuel (90 gals) and replaced all fuel filters, water separators and O2 sensors. Got the boat back she ran for 4 miles at 4500 RPMs and then cut down to zero. I've since replaced both low pressure fuel pumps and the high pressure pump in the VST tank. Spark plugs were changed, fuel lines replaced. Now, she gets up on plane but only runs 1/2 mile before completely bogging down. She seems to run with no issues at lower RPMs. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated as I am running low on money and can't keep chasing my tail around. + +As stated earlier, the motor never gave me any problems at all until after she sat for two years without running her.","We had a similar issue a few years back and the issue was a dirty earth connection on the block. There are several of them and the mechanic cleaned them all. This was after servicing all the filters, VST, pumps etc as you have done.","We had a similar issue a few years back and the issue was a dirty earth connection on the block. There are several of them and the mechanic cleaned them all. This was after servicing all the filters, VST, pumps etc as you have done.","genrystuart79 said: + + + + Once I also asked myself the same question, I reasoned like this: I wanted to cover the cabin of the boat with a resilient and easily washable material. My friend who works in a cleaning company, advised to use waterproof ottertex canvas. + +Click to expand... + +What company dude? A lot of companies I found, but never sought that they provide boat cleaning... Maybe he meant ordinary home carpets?" +"I am pulling my hair out.I'll start from the beginning,bought this motor in 04 as a left over 600hrs and NEVER had a problem til the economy tanked and so did my business.So I couldn't afford to use her for a little over two years. I treated the fuel during that time, as recommended. Long story short last Fall when I tried to run her in the river she was bogging down. Everything I read and heard said it was the injectors and it also recommended that a mechanic do the injectors. So in the Spring I sent it to a mechanic who said he cleaned five injectors and replace one, he dumped all the fuel (90 gals) and replaced all fuel filters, water separators and O2 sensors. Got the boat back she ran for 4 miles at 4500 RPMs and then cut down to zero. I've since replaced both low pressure fuel pumps and the high pressure pump in the VST tank. Spark plugs were changed, fuel lines replaced. Now, she gets up on plane but only runs 1/2 mile before completely bogging down. She seems to run with no issues at lower RPMs. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated as I am running low on money and can't keep chasing my tail around. + +As stated earlier, the motor never gave me any problems at all until after she sat for two years without running her.",Did you change the filter inside the high pressure pump? Looks exactly like the cone filter in an injector.,Did you change the filter inside the high pressure pump? Looks exactly like the cone filter in an injector.,"View attachment 1508 + +Pal, + +Do you have your batteries on charge when not in use? I have these dual circuit chargers at home and use them constantly when equipment is not in use. One in garage for the Harley and an extra battery, one in shed for tractor / yard equipment and am getting one for the boat, to perminently install, to charge both batteries seperately at same time while home on the trailer. + +Have had one for bike for a while now. Harley battery is going on 5 years old now and still strong as an ox. 1st battery only lasted 1 1/2 years on a Battery Tender, which went kaput and toasted the battery. They aren't cheap, around 170 ginkos, but neither are batteries." +"Hello, + +I take care of my elderly neighbor's boat. His 2-stroke 40 hp Yamaha's alarm is sounding. Pisser is working and oil reservoir is full. + +Any thoughts on what else I should look for? + +Thanks","I had this as an ""overheat"" alarm which would then slow engine to maximum of 1600 RPM. + +Didn't seem or feel hot at all, but turned out that it actually was overheating. + +I have a 1991 TLRP-90 and the Cylinder Head has two chambers, there was a pinhole leak from combustion chamber into the inner cooling chamber and after running for a while it would force the water out of this inner chamber. + +You could hold a finger on the head for three seconds as cooling water was still flowing through that portion (outer chamber), but engine's temperature sensor is within the head against inner chamber and could sense the overheat condition. + +Never noticed any steam from pisser as there was still plenty of cooler water flowing through, but had to replace the head anyway. + +You could test the temperature sensor and see what temperature closes its contacts, but if it checks OK, then you've got to believe it. I found out that my 'finger test' was not enough and damaged my engine by ignoring it..","I had this as an ""overheat"" alarm which would then slow engine to maximum of 1600 RPM. + +Didn't seem or feel hot at all, but turned out that it actually was overheating. + +I have a 1991 TLRP-90 and the Cylinder Head has two chambers, there was a pinhole leak from combustion chamber into the inner cooling chamber and after running for a while it would force the water out of this inner chamber. + +You could hold a finger on the head for three seconds as cooling water was still flowing through that portion (outer chamber), but engine's temperature sensor is within the head against inner chamber and could sense the overheat condition. + +Never noticed any steam from pisser as there was still plenty of cooler water flowing through, but had to replace the head anyway. + +You could test the temperature sensor and see what temperature closes its contacts, but if it checks OK, then you've got to believe it. I found out that my 'finger test' was not enough and damaged my engine by ignoring it..","The draining of a battery is not the problem. If a bilge pump needs to remove water in our absence, let's give it all the battery power we can. +The issue is where the Auto/OFF/Manual helm switch receives it's power. +These typically receive power at the helm, which is dependant on the hull harness, which is dependant on the MBSS making a battery bank selection. When we leave our boats unattended, we usually turn the MBSS off. Now the helm power is also off, so how is the ""Auto"" mode able to power a float switch? +Answer: It cannot! + +Even if this was a good idea, the other issue is remebering to leave it in the Auto Mode and/or accidentally bumping it off. + +Rule 101: A main bilge pump ""Float Switch"" power should come from an ""un-interruptible"" power source..... I.E., Non-Switchable. + +No matter how you slice it, no matter how you try to rationalize it......., this type of Auto/OFF/Manual switch is a bad idea. +These companies that make and sell these switches should be ashamed of themselves." +"Hello, + +I take care of my elderly neighbor's boat. His 2-stroke 40 hp Yamaha's alarm is sounding. Pisser is working and oil reservoir is full. + +Any thoughts on what else I should look for? + +Thanks",I have a 40hp yamaha 2 stroke and the alarm goes off every now and then when (I think) the wires coming out of the control box touch - I don't have them hooked up.,I have a 40hp yamaha 2 stroke and the alarm goes off every now and then when (I think) the wires coming out of the control box touch - I don't have them hooked up.,"Keep removing and replacing the drain bolt and soon you won't have to be worrying about torque. + +Leave the bolt alone and start using the vacuum pump to extract the oil. The oil can usually be removed in less time than it takes to remove the drain plug. A lot less mess." +"Here goes, hope someone can help. 2003 150hp, carbureted with 525 hours. Recently when coming to idle after a long run I noticed a miss while idling in gear. The miss isn't noticeable in neutral. New plugs didn't help. Compression was good on all cylinders. I'm a retired auto mechanic so I have a lot of experience, but mostly on 4 cycle engines. Thank you , in advance , for any suggestions. Oh yeah, the problem has progressed to where now I need to get above 1700 rpms for the miss to go away. No problem in neutral.",Possibly time to strip and clean those carbs. Have you got a water seperator/filter in the fuel line? The other thing to check is the low pressure fuel pumps. They are a known maintenance item on that engine and can cause running issues. If you unbolt them from the side of the block and then squeeze the primer bulb they should not leak. If they do leak they need replacing or a new diaphragm/seal kit. If you do end up cleaning the carbs make sure you do a complete and thorough clean using lots of compressed air.,Possibly time to strip and clean those carbs. Have you got a water seperator/filter in the fuel line? The other thing to check is the low pressure fuel pumps. They are a known maintenance item on that engine and can cause running issues. If you unbolt them from the side of the block and then squeeze the primer bulb they should not leak. If they do leak they need replacing or a new diaphragm/seal kit. If you do end up cleaning the carbs make sure you do a complete and thorough clean using lots of compressed air.,Remove gas level sender and check to see if tank clean and not rusted inside first. Replace sender gasket. +"Here goes, hope someone can help. 2003 150hp, carbureted with 525 hours. Recently when coming to idle after a long run I noticed a miss while idling in gear. The miss isn't noticeable in neutral. New plugs didn't help. Compression was good on all cylinders. I'm a retired auto mechanic so I have a lot of experience, but mostly on 4 cycle engines. Thank you , in advance , for any suggestions. Oh yeah, the problem has progressed to where now I need to get above 1700 rpms for the miss to go away. No problem in neutral.","aliboy said: + + + + Possibly time to strip and clean those carbs. Have you got a watein seperator/filter in the fuel line? The other thing to check is the low pressure fuel pumps. They are a known maintenance item on that engine and can cause running issues. If you unbolt them from the side of the block and then squeeze the primer bulb they should not leak. If they do leak they need replacing or a new diaphragm/seal kit. If you do end up cleaning the carbs make sure you do a complete and thorough clean using lots of compressed air.[/QUOTE + +Thanks for the advice, since posting, an acquaintance has mentioned the primary circuit in one of the carbs. Fortunately I'm very comfortanble with carbs, and rebuilding, ( a dead skill with the advent of injection). Especiall appreciate the pump advice, I'll act on it. +BTW, yes on the seperator, and I've owned the boat since new, and I've topped the boat off after every trip to minimize seperation. I've used Star tron since it's introduction. + +Click to expand...","aliboy said: + + + + Possibly time to strip and clean those carbs. Have you got a watein seperator/filter in the fuel line? The other thing to check is the low pressure fuel pumps. They are a known maintenance item on that engine and can cause running issues. If you unbolt them from the side of the block and then squeeze the primer bulb they should not leak. If they do leak they need replacing or a new diaphragm/seal kit. If you do end up cleaning the carbs make sure you do a complete and thorough clean using lots of compressed air.[/QUOTE + +Thanks for the advice, since posting, an acquaintance has mentioned the primary circuit in one of the carbs. Fortunately I'm very comfortanble with carbs, and rebuilding, ( a dead skill with the advent of injection). Especiall appreciate the pump advice, I'll act on it. +BTW, yes on the seperator, and I've owned the boat since new, and I've topped the boat off after every trip to minimize seperation. I've used Star tron since it's introduction. + +Click to expand...","Juddy said: + + + + It's not that one it's the one on the other end that attaches to the cable. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... If ya mean the Big nut at the end of the cable's housin'/ sheath,... + +It's swaged onto the cable housin', 'n the Only way to change it, is change the whole Cable assembly,..... + +It, by itself, Isn't replaceable,..." +"Here goes, hope someone can help. 2003 150hp, carbureted with 525 hours. Recently when coming to idle after a long run I noticed a miss while idling in gear. The miss isn't noticeable in neutral. New plugs didn't help. Compression was good on all cylinders. I'm a retired auto mechanic so I have a lot of experience, but mostly on 4 cycle engines. Thank you , in advance , for any suggestions. Oh yeah, the problem has progressed to where now I need to get above 1700 rpms for the miss to go away. No problem in neutral.","Carbs are the most likely, but the fuel pumps are a 15 minute check for someone with mech skills so worth having a look at anyway.","Carbs are the most likely, but the fuel pumps are a 15 minute check for someone with mech skills so worth having a look at anyway.","Thanks for replies, it was the alternator that was faulty: been replaced now. this thread can be closed." +"Here goes, hope someone can help. 2003 150hp, carbureted with 525 hours. Recently when coming to idle after a long run I noticed a miss while idling in gear. The miss isn't noticeable in neutral. New plugs didn't help. Compression was good on all cylinders. I'm a retired auto mechanic so I have a lot of experience, but mostly on 4 cycle engines. Thank you , in advance , for any suggestions. Oh yeah, the problem has progressed to where now I need to get above 1700 rpms for the miss to go away. No problem in neutral.","Just giving you the courtesy of an update/conclusion to the ""miss"" problem. I used an old , not in any repair manual , solution. Years ago, before electronics, we used the engine vacuum to clear clogged primaries (when we were lucky). Simply put you raise the engine rpm above idle, and suddenly choke the engine hard. Depending on the size of the throat, you could use the palm of your hand, or a sturdy cloth. It didn't work every time, but often enough. It worked this time. I was surprised at the difference, it must of been slowly fouling because I hadn't felt it run that smooth in some time. Two hours on the water, and it still purrs. If nothing else it verifies the problem, and I won't hesitate cleaning the carbs if the problem returns anytime soon. Thanks again for your input.","Just giving you the courtesy of an update/conclusion to the ""miss"" problem. I used an old , not in any repair manual , solution. Years ago, before electronics, we used the engine vacuum to clear clogged primaries (when we were lucky). Simply put you raise the engine rpm above idle, and suddenly choke the engine hard. Depending on the size of the throat, you could use the palm of your hand, or a sturdy cloth. It didn't work every time, but often enough. It worked this time. I was surprised at the difference, it must of been slowly fouling because I hadn't felt it run that smooth in some time. Two hours on the water, and it still purrs. If nothing else it verifies the problem, and I won't hesitate cleaning the carbs if the problem returns anytime soon. Thanks again for your input.","Ok thank you, and where do i find this one? I'm not a very technical computer woman ����" +"Here goes, hope someone can help. 2003 150hp, carbureted with 525 hours. Recently when coming to idle after a long run I noticed a miss while idling in gear. The miss isn't noticeable in neutral. New plugs didn't help. Compression was good on all cylinders. I'm a retired auto mechanic so I have a lot of experience, but mostly on 4 cycle engines. Thank you , in advance , for any suggestions. Oh yeah, the problem has progressed to where now I need to get above 1700 rpms for the miss to go away. No problem in neutral.",Neat trick and good result.,Neat trick and good result.,"If I were in your position and having those types of issues, I would consider a complete rewiring job and I would re-fuse everything to make sure that all loads are properly fused. The reason for this is threefold. First, you'll stop blowing fuses and will get everything working properly. Second, after doing that, you will know and understand all of your electrical systems on the boat. Third, if you have an electrical failure on the water (and you will at some point in time, especially if in saltwater) you will know how to fix or bypass the issue. I'm on saltwater in the Chesapeake and Hatteras off shore. On my boat I carry a tool box and an electrical box that contains marine wire, fuses, connectors, multimeter, test wires, electrical tape, wire strippers, wire cutters, etc." +"I have a '99 F100. At the beginning of the summer made it 10-15 mins out of my creek at low speed (engine normally running, developed an increasingly loud knock/vibration that appeared to be coming from the lower unit. When I attempted to throttle up the engine started to cut out on me with difficulty shifting between gears (caused the cutoff. Fortunately was able to fire it up, remain at idle speed, and make it back to the dock aided by the incoming tide. Had two different mechanics look at it and found that the lower unit was compromised, water leaking in mixing with the oil. After further consultation a decision was made to rebuild the lower unit, as it appeared to be salvageable (e.g. gears intact). + +First time out on the water after the rebuild, plus a 100 hour service, nearly the same thing occurred. About 10-15 mins of running smoothly a knock started with vibrations. Attempting any increased throttle caused the engine to cutoff, couldn't shift between gears. Engine would only start up and remain in idle speed. I was ultimately towed in. + +I'm waiting for the mechanic who did the rebuild and 100 service work to inspect it but in the meantime an thoughts about what might be happening? Thanks in advance for any feedback","Would check the lower unit oil. If more water, check what seals were replaced in the rebuild and whether the rebuilt unit was pressure and vacuum tested.","Would check the lower unit oil. If more water, check what seals were replaced in the rebuild and whether the rebuilt unit was pressure and vacuum tested.","Ok, switchbox problem. Now I'm wondering about the engine. Model is J110TLAEM and # is R08182597." +"I have a '99 F100. At the beginning of the summer made it 10-15 mins out of my creek at low speed (engine normally running, developed an increasingly loud knock/vibration that appeared to be coming from the lower unit. When I attempted to throttle up the engine started to cut out on me with difficulty shifting between gears (caused the cutoff. Fortunately was able to fire it up, remain at idle speed, and make it back to the dock aided by the incoming tide. Had two different mechanics look at it and found that the lower unit was compromised, water leaking in mixing with the oil. After further consultation a decision was made to rebuild the lower unit, as it appeared to be salvageable (e.g. gears intact). + +First time out on the water after the rebuild, plus a 100 hour service, nearly the same thing occurred. About 10-15 mins of running smoothly a knock started with vibrations. Attempting any increased throttle caused the engine to cutoff, couldn't shift between gears. Engine would only start up and remain in idle speed. I was ultimately towed in. + +I'm waiting for the mechanic who did the rebuild and 100 service work to inspect it but in the meantime an thoughts about what might be happening? Thanks in advance for any feedback","Take it back to the mechanic, If he did a 100 hour service and rebuilt the lower unit he needs to do it again.","Take it back to the mechanic, If he did a 100 hour service and rebuilt the lower unit he needs to do it again.","makomark said: + + + + Replace it....even if you do succeed without damaging it, the crud inside will cause the same thing in a short period of time..... + +Click to expand... + + +I am having problem sourcing parts for this. The original cable is 13' 6"" as marked on the cable, and I have been able to find 13' or 14' replacements, but nothing in between. Can I use a 14' cable and just add the extra 6"" of length on the console side? + + Also, I cannot remove the old cable from the boat as it is stuck near the midway position and that make the ends of the cable too long to make the turn at the transom. So my options to get the old one out is to either break the cable loose, break the cable internally, or cut the cable with a hack saw. I am reluctant to do that until I have a replacement part in hand that I know will work. + +There is a grease fitting on the cable, so it may be possible that I can force PB Blaster into the cable, but I will have to figure out some way to push it in there. Maybe I can build a small canister that I can attach to my air hose that I can screw into the grease fitting hole. Have to give that some thought." +"Hi Everyone, + +Just put my Yamaha F80 into the water in June and something happened. It went from full throttle to puttering with a whining noise, then quite. Could not get it started. + +Back at the dock we compression tested the cylinders and all came up golden. Got it started but there was an almost grinding noise coming from it. + +Out of the water found that when it was in neutral the prop would not turn, like it was still in gear. The lines look good and are moving but something has it stuck. Have not tried to start it since. + +Any quick ideas or things to look at? + +Doug",Check the lower unit oil for water contamination.,Check the lower unit oil for water contamination.,"http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quicksilver...ash=item464d212d0e:g:SaUAAOSw1DtXIMvK&vxp=mtr +Maybe something like this" +"Hi Everyone, + +Just put my Yamaha F80 into the water in June and something happened. It went from full throttle to puttering with a whining noise, then quite. Could not get it started. + +Back at the dock we compression tested the cylinders and all came up golden. Got it started but there was an almost grinding noise coming from it. + +Out of the water found that when it was in neutral the prop would not turn, like it was still in gear. The lines look good and are moving but something has it stuck. Have not tried to start it since. + +Any quick ideas or things to look at? + +Doug","Hi Aliboy, + +I finally got to the boat and checked the lower unit. Pulled the vent plug and realized that the drain plug was used there with two washers. Removed the drain plug that was not tightened down and there was no lower gear case oil there! Proceeded to fill and the prop did move, but not freely. + +Once done, I then tried to turn over the motor. The lever is in neutral, but the prop is turning with the engine, telling me the engine is still in gear (of the gears are not releasing). + +I'll drain the oil this weekend and see if there is any gross amount of filings in the oil. Should I pull the lower unit and see if there is a problem with anything? Any idea what I should look for? + +Doug","Hi Aliboy, + +I finally got to the boat and checked the lower unit. Pulled the vent plug and realized that the drain plug was used there with two washers. Removed the drain plug that was not tightened down and there was no lower gear case oil there! Proceeded to fill and the prop did move, but not freely. + +Once done, I then tried to turn over the motor. The lever is in neutral, but the prop is turning with the engine, telling me the engine is still in gear (of the gears are not releasing). + +I'll drain the oil this weekend and see if there is any gross amount of filings in the oil. Should I pull the lower unit and see if there is a problem with anything? Any idea what I should look for? + +Doug",I tried to research the pro mariner 2-70-3 and the only specs they give is number of alternators and total output you should probably get a 2-120-3 isolator just to be safe and also use the proper wire size #2g to be safe. +"Hi Everyone, + +Just put my Yamaha F80 into the water in June and something happened. It went from full throttle to puttering with a whining noise, then quite. Could not get it started. + +Back at the dock we compression tested the cylinders and all came up golden. Got it started but there was an almost grinding noise coming from it. + +Out of the water found that when it was in neutral the prop would not turn, like it was still in gear. The lines look good and are moving but something has it stuck. Have not tried to start it since. + +Any quick ideas or things to look at? + +Doug","Sounds like your lower unit may have been damaged. When you pull it see if it will shift, if it will not you will need to tear into it or replace the lower unit. The gears could be rusted up or damaged. This is not the easiest task to fix a lower unit correctly, but it can be done if you know your way around this sort of thing.","Sounds like your lower unit may have been damaged. When you pull it see if it will shift, if it will not you will need to tear into it or replace the lower unit. The gears could be rusted up or damaged. This is not the easiest task to fix a lower unit correctly, but it can be done if you know your way around this sort of thing.","First, I am by no means an expert on these wiring setups. Others on this forum know far more than I do. So here is what I think. + +I believe that the isolator switch should handle the situation where if one alternator fails, it will switch all charging to the other alternator. + +Boats are wired differently. On most older boats the voltage meter measures voltage off of the battery. However, on newer fuel injected engines, the voltage meter is often run off the ECU. I suspect yours would likely be coming off the battery, but you never can tell - it could be the alternator. So try to find the sender wire off the meter and trace it back to the engine and see where it goes. It should have a unique color code." +"i'm working on a friends 98 yamaha 115 c115tlrw. when the motor is running at idle im reading 11.7 volt at the battery. does anyone know how to test the regulator/ stator. or have any ideas +thanks mike","I don't have your manual, but most stators can be tested with an ohms test. Get a factory manual and see if the readings are within factory specification for each component.","I don't have your manual, but most stators can be tested with an ohms test. Get a factory manual and see if the readings are within factory specification for each component.","That's what I thought. +THANKS!!" +"I recently purchased a pontoon boat and on day #3 my motor died, I'm hoping to get some help from the community with correctly diagnosing and fixing the problem. + +The motor - 1999 Yamaha 80hp four stroke (F80TLRX). + +The problem - 30A fuse is blown, and when it's replaced the rectifier starts overheating (burning and smoking). + +What happened - I was cruising along and started to increase throttle, but suddenly started losing power. With a minute or two the engine died, and I had no power to the tilt/trim motor (from either remote or engine side) or starter. One clue, or perhaps red herring, is that shortly before this occurred I tried turning on the fish finder. It didn't power up, which was odd, as it had worked previously before this cruise. Another clue/red herring, is that I found the electrical cable to the masthead light was under stress because of a broken seat cover. + +Attempted solutions - My first step was checking the fuses, and the 30A fuse was blown. As mentioned the motor started smoking badly and emitting a burning smell when I replaced the fuse, which I confirmed was from the rectifier after removing some covers. I removed the in-line fuse connecting the fish finder, just in case that was causing a problem, and addressed the masthead light cable, but this didn't resolve anything. The battery is in good shape and the connections are clean and tight, and after inspection of the motor I can't find any loose/broken/chafed wires that might be the problem. + +My first inclination is to just replace the rectifier, though if something is causing that to burn up I might just end up frying another one. Any suggestions for how to correctly identify and isolate the root cause would be greatly appreciated before I invest money in parts or a professional marine mechanic. (I may go with the latter in any case just to be on the safe side.) I'm also curious if disconnecting the rectifier might let me start and run the motor, knowing my battery won't be getting charged and some instrumentation won't work. + +Thanks in advance for any help offered. If anyone knows where I can find a repair manual for this motor, that would also be appreciated.","I don't know if you solved this problem yet, but I would recommend getting a factory manual and going over the entire electrical system with a good meter. Look for torn up wires that may be shorting out. A lot of times the different components will have either resistance tests or voltage tests you can perform to isolate the problem. Is this burning smell happening when the motor is running or even when it is not running? You can get to the bottom of this, these systems seem complicated, but they really are pretty straight forward once you understand them.","I don't know if you solved this problem yet, but I would recommend getting a factory manual and going over the entire electrical system with a good meter. Look for torn up wires that may be shorting out. A lot of times the different components will have either resistance tests or voltage tests you can perform to isolate the problem. Is this burning smell happening when the motor is running or even when it is not running? You can get to the bottom of this, these systems seem complicated, but they really are pretty straight forward once you understand them.","No. + +The back side or the tilt motor housing was rusted through where the cable lays between the tilt motor and the stern bracket. The housing was coming in contact with the commutator causing it to heat up and it would trip the thermal breaker inside the tilt motor. Let it sit a few hours and the thermal breaker would reset and you could tilt it full up or full down once before it tripped the thermal breaker again." +"I bought a 1986 Yamaha 40 hp outboard. I replaced my lower unit oil and it came out looking lime green. It was a consistent lime green color (i.e. no separated water). I used OEM Yamaha washers for the drain and fill screws. + +I use 90 weight Hypoid marine gear oil from West Marine. + +I am not sure if I need to get this pressure tested or if this color is normal.","Some lower unit gear oils have a green color. If it had water contamination, it will be cloudy(milky looking).","Some lower unit gear oils have a green color. If it had water contamination, it will be cloudy(milky looking).",There were no 6 HP two stroke Yams distributed within the USA. If you have one you will need to contact a Yamaha dealer or distributor for the region in which the motor was sold. +"To start with, Right after changing throttle cable motor wouldn't start. Not sure whether I stopped getting spark before or after. Tried a little starter fluid to start and small fire started about the size of a wooden match. Put out with fire extinguisher. I don't get any spark. Either no voltage reading or 29 volts from stator. I disconnected all wires to and from stator and same results. I cleaned stator just in case extinguisher stuff got on it even tho I didn't see any. No voltage from CDI. Not sure what wires to test on regulator to test it. 2 yellow a red and a gray. Don't know which is in and which is out. I have a Yamaha manual for this model but doesn't help much. I counted threads on the ends of cable when I replaced. Not sure what home position would be on black plastic part with the cam follower roller for carb linkage. Also, linkage on carb linkage is frozen. I don't want to change stator yet, would a bad regulator blow a stator?",Check your safety switch first. Normally if you don't get sparks out of all the spark plugs that's an indication of the safety switch no pull out all the way. GL,Check your safety switch first. Normally if you don't get sparks out of all the spark plugs that's an indication of the safety switch no pull out all the way. GL,See if this helps you out... +"To start with, Right after changing throttle cable motor wouldn't start. Not sure whether I stopped getting spark before or after. Tried a little starter fluid to start and small fire started about the size of a wooden match. Put out with fire extinguisher. I don't get any spark. Either no voltage reading or 29 volts from stator. I disconnected all wires to and from stator and same results. I cleaned stator just in case extinguisher stuff got on it even tho I didn't see any. No voltage from CDI. Not sure what wires to test on regulator to test it. 2 yellow a red and a gray. Don't know which is in and which is out. I have a Yamaha manual for this model but doesn't help much. I counted threads on the ends of cable when I replaced. Not sure what home position would be on black plastic part with the cam follower roller for carb linkage. Also, linkage on carb linkage is frozen. I don't want to change stator yet, would a bad regulator blow a stator?","Vinh said: + + + + Check your safety switch first. Normally if you don't get sparks out of all the spark plugs that's an indication of the safety switch no pull out all +Yes that is one of first things I checked along with all other shut off things. It's looking like bad CDI unit. + +Click to expand...","Vinh said: + + + + Check your safety switch first. Normally if you don't get sparks out of all the spark plugs that's an indication of the safety switch no pull out all +Yes that is one of first things I checked along with all other shut off things. It's looking like bad CDI unit. + +Click to expand...","Are we looking at the back side of the windshield? I see the radio so I assume so from the passenger's seat. My first thought was that it was a manual contol for a windshield wiper. But the picture shows nothing much outside the switch....and radio. + +If it is mounted to the bulkhead, what kind of wiring is behind it. How many wires and what gauge? +Mark" +"ffirst time out after carb clean and rebuild. Starts fine, runs great, but ""coughs and sputters at idle. Have turnedd idle adjustment screw to as high as rpm as possible and still be able to shift (approx 1200 RPM). Motor ""coughs and sputters"" then dies. Restarts fine but can't keep it running at adle speed. Couldit be fuel pumps?","Hasn't any body else had this problem and found a way to fix? + + +rikclark said: + + + + ffirst time out after carb clean and rebuild. Starts fine, runs great, but ""coughs and sputters at idle. Have turnedd idle adjustment screw to as high as rpm as possible and still be able to shift (approx 1200 RPM). Motor ""coughs and sputters"" then dies. Restarts fine but can't keep it running at adle speed. Couldit be fuel pumps? + +Click to expand...","Hasn't any body else had this problem and found a way to fix? + + +rikclark said: + + + + ffirst time out after carb clean and rebuild. Starts fine, runs great, but ""coughs and sputters at idle. Have turnedd idle adjustment screw to as high as rpm as possible and still be able to shift (approx 1200 RPM). Motor ""coughs and sputters"" then dies. Restarts fine but can't keep it running at adle speed. Couldit be fuel pumps? + +Click to expand...","Try pumping the primer bulb to see if issue goes away," +"ffirst time out after carb clean and rebuild. Starts fine, runs great, but ""coughs and sputters at idle. Have turnedd idle adjustment screw to as high as rpm as possible and still be able to shift (approx 1200 RPM). Motor ""coughs and sputters"" then dies. Restarts fine but can't keep it running at adle speed. Couldit be fuel pumps?",Most folks pick the carburetors to start with !-------------Answer these ??------Was there dirt in the carburetors ?--------Have you done a compression test ?--------Have you checked for STRONG spark on all leads ?,Most folks pick the carburetors to start with !-------------Answer these ??------Was there dirt in the carburetors ?--------Have you done a compression test ?--------Have you checked for STRONG spark on all leads ?,"Okay, so the whole reason nothing works, lights/gauges etc, is because the panel has no hot wire leading from the fuse panel to the battery. Where would I hook a hot wire to the fuse panel? I know how to connect to the battery obviously, but where would this go on the fuse box. I'm gonna try and upload a pic of my fuse box to show you what I'm talking about." +"ffirst time out after carb clean and rebuild. Starts fine, runs great, but ""coughs and sputters at idle. Have turnedd idle adjustment screw to as high as rpm as possible and still be able to shift (approx 1200 RPM). Motor ""coughs and sputters"" then dies. Restarts fine but can't keep it running at adle speed. Couldit be fuel pumps?","Thanks for the input Racerone. Carbs were clogged because I neglected to add conditioner to the fuel when I last refueled in the fall. Some jets clogged, but not much dirt in carbs. Rebuilt and adjusted to specs during tune up. Have checked everything but the spark on all cylinders. Will be this weekend's project.","Thanks for the input Racerone. Carbs were clogged because I neglected to add conditioner to the fuel when I last refueled in the fall. Some jets clogged, but not much dirt in carbs. Rebuilt and adjusted to specs during tune up. Have checked everything but the spark on all cylinders. Will be this weekend's project.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + V4 Yam's are 400lbs....so no, there isn't a V6 under 400lbs, let alone 200lbs. + +Click to expand... + +Are you including the propeller weight, etc? + +I am talking about the engine only (block, heads, internals)." +"Took the boat out 5 days ago no problem. Today boat started and reversed off trailer fine. Could not shift boat from neutral into forward, got it to finally shift into forward and motor shut off every time I tried to give any rpm's to move the boat forward. Plan on fixing the cables that run from throttle to outboard, but why would the motor shut off when I do finally get it shifted into forward?",Check the oil in your lower unit. Could be contaminated with water and have a seized bearing etc.,Check the oil in your lower unit. Could be contaminated with water and have a seized bearing etc.,"Thanks for the info. + + + +kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Fiberglassics has alot of info on boat manufactures but alot of that info was just lost. + +Click to expand... + + +I'm curious, how so? + +Thanks again" +"Took the boat out 5 days ago no problem. Today boat started and reversed off trailer fine. Could not shift boat from neutral into forward, got it to finally shift into forward and motor shut off every time I tried to give any rpm's to move the boat forward. Plan on fixing the cables that run from throttle to outboard, but why would the motor shut off when I do finally get it shifted into forward?","aliboy said: + + + + Check the oil in your lower unit. Could be contaminated with water and have a seized bearing etc. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the help ended up being a loose screw not allowing the linkage to go into forward gear.","aliboy said: + + + + Check the oil in your lower unit. Could be contaminated with water and have a seized bearing etc. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the help ended up being a loose screw not allowing the linkage to go into forward gear.","johnnygjr said: + + + + have you continuously pumped primer bulbs while they are running? There could be one inside of fuel tank,might have to pull sending unit off to get access + +Click to expand... + + +I did not pump the primer ball while the engine was running. +so you are saying in the WC 290 there is a ball in the tank it self. +also does each fuel line go directly into the tank or is there a main the comes out of the tank and then splits to port/Starboard engines? + +this is an intermittent problem and when one engine is out the other still runs, they are never both out at the same time. + +thanks, + +Dan" +"Took the boat out 5 days ago no problem. Today boat started and reversed off trailer fine. Could not shift boat from neutral into forward, got it to finally shift into forward and motor shut off every time I tried to give any rpm's to move the boat forward. Plan on fixing the cables that run from throttle to outboard, but why would the motor shut off when I do finally get it shifted into forward?",That's an excellent result. Anything else was probably going to get expensive.,That's an excellent result. Anything else was probably going to get expensive.,I have a D1LC in my boat that was working great until I changed the battery. When I changed the battery I set the battery into its slot and the battery cables contacted the terminals and the battery was in backwards. Now when I turn on the heater the fuel pump runs for about 5 second no fan and white smoke out the exhaust then nothing. Not sure what part may have blown. +"Hi, + +I'd like to add an hour meter to a Yamaha 9.9 outboard motor. The motor is wired directly to the battery and an ignition/key switch is not used. + +Is there somewhere on the motor that only has an electric current when the engine is running? Otherwise the charge from the battery will keep the hour meter running continually. I've read somewhere that tachometers are sometimes attached to the alternator. + +Any help appreciated!",You can get combo hour meter/rev counters for less than $20 that are driven from a spark plug lead.,You can get combo hour meter/rev counters for less than $20 that are driven from a spark plug lead.,"Why would you take a perfectly good system and remove it? + +Look to the future, not to the past." +"I have a 1998 25 hp 25mshw3. I am looking for the idle screw adjustment setting for each carb. Any information would be helpful. I think the top carb was 1-1/2 turn , middle 1-3/4, bottom 2.",Did you find any help with this problem. I have a 2000 25HP 3 cylinder and I'm looking for the same information.,Did you find any help with this problem. I have a 2000 25HP 3 cylinder and I'm looking for the same information.,"dark_star said: + + + + Water in the gear case or crank case will emulsify (milky) +sounds like you are getting fuel in the crank case +does it smell like gas ? + +Click to expand... + + +Didn't notice any gas smell. I'll go back and check for that again though. + +What would cause that? Worn rings? + +Can I use it for the rest of the season (2 more months basically, it's on a sailboat so not heavy use)? Or am I asking for trouble? Wonder if at year 13 this things is ready for a complete rebuild. I've owned it since 2014 and have tried to maintain it well but it does live in salt water 5 months of the year." +"Hello everyone, I have a 1999 Key West boat with a same year SX150 Salt Water Series II Outboard on the back. The tilt and trim works, on the motor, but the gauge does not work. This boat has the digital multi-information gauges and the trim/tilt shows as little bars on the right side of the gauge............but nothing happens when I trim the outboard. Any idea where I should look....gauge - switch - something on the motor itself? Thanks, Patrick","Hello again, +Wanted to let anyone know, that might be interested, that the problem was the ""Trim Sender"". It was a plastic unit that was broken and would not stay tight on the tube........I got a ""Trim Sender Kit"" from the Yamaha Dealer; this one made of metal. Clamped it on the tube so extending part pushed the trim lever arm...........and now the gauge works. +Patrick","Hello again, +Wanted to let anyone know, that might be interested, that the problem was the ""Trim Sender"". It was a plastic unit that was broken and would not stay tight on the tube........I got a ""Trim Sender Kit"" from the Yamaha Dealer; this one made of metal. Clamped it on the tube so extending part pushed the trim lever arm...........and now the gauge works. +Patrick","So had tech come today (finally ) He checked all systems as I did . have spark while cranking , have compression , have 40psi fuel pressure @ rail and can fire injectors and pressure falls indicating they are flowing . He changed ISC valve ( no change ) Pulled plugs looked ok but plugs are not wet with fuel ? (dry ) ? + +I even tried a few other injectors I had . replaced ECU no change . So at this point they want me to have boat towed to there shop so they can work on it more ? +Not sure what more they can do at shop but seem this is baffling everyone .." +"Hello everyone, I have a 1999 Key West boat with a same year SX150 Salt Water Series II Outboard on the back. The tilt and trim works, on the motor, but the gauge does not work. This boat has the digital multi-information gauges and the trim/tilt shows as little bars on the right side of the gauge............but nothing happens when I trim the outboard. Any idea where I should look....gauge - switch - something on the motor itself? Thanks, Patrick","Had the same issue on my SX-180. The boat repair shop ordered a couple of new trim tabs (trim senders), but they were plastic also. +Good to know I can get a metal unit next time it breaks.","Had the same issue on my SX-180. The boat repair shop ordered a couple of new trim tabs (trim senders), but they were plastic also. +Good to know I can get a metal unit next time it breaks.",The motor is a 1962 Johnson 40 HP electric start +"Hello everyone, I have a 1999 Key West boat with a same year SX150 Salt Water Series II Outboard on the back. The tilt and trim works, on the motor, but the gauge does not work. This boat has the digital multi-information gauges and the trim/tilt shows as little bars on the right side of the gauge............but nothing happens when I trim the outboard. Any idea where I should look....gauge - switch - something on the motor itself? Thanks, Patrick","Over bored said: + + + + Had the same issue on my SX-180. The boat repair shop ordered a couple of new trim tabs (trim senders), but they were plastic also. +Good to know I can get a metal unit next time it breaks. + +Click to expand... + + Over bored, here is the OEM Yamaha ""kit"" number, if you need it..................99999-03830; this kit has the clamp and a longer bolt, but cost about $23 as a kit. Hope this helps! Patrick","Over bored said: + + + + Had the same issue on my SX-180. The boat repair shop ordered a couple of new trim tabs (trim senders), but they were plastic also. +Good to know I can get a metal unit next time it breaks. + +Click to expand... + + Over bored, here is the OEM Yamaha ""kit"" number, if you need it..................99999-03830; this kit has the clamp and a longer bolt, but cost about $23 as a kit. Hope this helps! Patrick",Check the ground to the switch. Check the continuity of the wiring from the switch to the ECU. +"Hello everyone, I have a 1999 Key West boat with a same year SX150 Salt Water Series II Outboard on the back. The tilt and trim works, on the motor, but the gauge does not work. This boat has the digital multi-information gauges and the trim/tilt shows as little bars on the right side of the gauge............but nothing happens when I trim the outboard. Any idea where I should look....gauge - switch - something on the motor itself? Thanks, Patrick","Guys, I have that problem on my 1999 2-stroke 150, the gauge just went gaga when raising or lowering the Engine because the little plastic tab that operates the sender was broken and slipping. I ordered the sending unit they sent me the little spring loaded sender and a thing similar to a C clamp with a metal tab on it that I assume operates sender unit shaft. The C clamp device I guess replaces the plastic piece that was broken and slipping on the tilt shaft. Are there any good write ups or you tube procedures for adjusting that thing? I got it kind of close but according to the gauge it is still not displaying the right position of the engine. Is there a procedure in the Yamaha Outboard repair manual to help me? Any help greatly appreciated.","Guys, I have that problem on my 1999 2-stroke 150, the gauge just went gaga when raising or lowering the Engine because the little plastic tab that operates the sender was broken and slipping. I ordered the sending unit they sent me the little spring loaded sender and a thing similar to a C clamp with a metal tab on it that I assume operates sender unit shaft. The C clamp device I guess replaces the plastic piece that was broken and slipping on the tilt shaft. Are there any good write ups or you tube procedures for adjusting that thing? I got it kind of close but according to the gauge it is still not displaying the right position of the engine. Is there a procedure in the Yamaha Outboard repair manual to help me? Any help greatly appreciated.",You need to get a service manual gauges acting weird can be a sign of a bad stator or voltage regulator the manual will tell you how to check the stator. +"Hello everyone, I have a 1999 Key West boat with a same year SX150 Salt Water Series II Outboard on the back. The tilt and trim works, on the motor, but the gauge does not work. This boat has the digital multi-information gauges and the trim/tilt shows as little bars on the right side of the gauge............but nothing happens when I trim the outboard. Any idea where I should look....gauge - switch - something on the motor itself? Thanks, Patrick","rjw4259 said: + + + + Guys, I have that problem on my 1999 2-stroke 150, the gauge just went gaga when raising or lowering the Engine because the little plastic tab that operates the sender was broken and slipping. I ordered the sending unit they sent me the little spring loaded sender and a thing similar to a C clamp with a metal tab on it that I assume operates sender unit shaft. The C clamp device I guess replaces the plastic piece that was broken and slipping on the tilt shaft. Are there any good write ups or you tube procedures for adjusting that thing? I got it kind of close but according to the gauge it is still not displaying the right position of the engine. Is there a procedure in the Yamaha Outboard repair manual to help me? Any help greatly appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi, +As I remember I just installed the sending unit but did not tighten-then lowered the motor and moved the 'tab' up about 0.005 off of its finger and tighten the unit. You might need to make a little adjustments to get the gauge to show what you want. +Hope this helps.","rjw4259 said: + + + + Guys, I have that problem on my 1999 2-stroke 150, the gauge just went gaga when raising or lowering the Engine because the little plastic tab that operates the sender was broken and slipping. I ordered the sending unit they sent me the little spring loaded sender and a thing similar to a C clamp with a metal tab on it that I assume operates sender unit shaft. The C clamp device I guess replaces the plastic piece that was broken and slipping on the tilt shaft. Are there any good write ups or you tube procedures for adjusting that thing? I got it kind of close but according to the gauge it is still not displaying the right position of the engine. Is there a procedure in the Yamaha Outboard repair manual to help me? Any help greatly appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi, +As I remember I just installed the sending unit but did not tighten-then lowered the motor and moved the 'tab' up about 0.005 off of its finger and tighten the unit. You might need to make a little adjustments to get the gauge to show what you want. +Hope this helps.","Go to boatinfo library and find your manual. The wiring from the engine to the helm is pretty standard you have senders, ignition hot and ground and start. Everything should be color coded and straight forward." +"I have an F225TXR built in 2006 with a leaking trim cylinder. It has been used in salt water but not moored in salt water for more than a week at any one time and more often only for hours. I have a spanner wrench, but so far have not been able to budge the trim cylinder end screw. Before I do any damage, does anyone have a suggestion on a better tool or technique to free the end screw so I can replace the seals and O rings? Thanks for your help.","Thanks to all who read my post. I was able to get some help from another forum and the links for a 4 pin tools. Will try a bit of fire and ice treatment once the tool and parts arrive. I posted the links here if anybody else could use a new spanner wrench. Several different varieties on the second link. + +http://moto-stops.com/products/four-stroke-yamaha-trim-wrench.php +http://www.simyamaha.com/category_s/2097.htm","Thanks to all who read my post. I was able to get some help from another forum and the links for a 4 pin tools. Will try a bit of fire and ice treatment once the tool and parts arrive. I posted the links here if anybody else could use a new spanner wrench. Several different varieties on the second link. + +http://moto-stops.com/products/four-stroke-yamaha-trim-wrench.php +http://www.simyamaha.com/category_s/2097.htm","[FONT="]A steady constant beep is the overheat warning.[/FONT] Did you check the water pump operation. Since you just bought the boat, you should replace this pump." +"Afternoon all, + +Ive been having issues with one of my F15's. Its a 2012 and receives heavy use, however has a pretty up to date maintenance schedule, regular servicing, OEM parts, etc. Recently, it has developed a problem with the overheating alarm going off, with a good strong telltale. + +When this problem began my first response was to check and clean the exhaust manifold and check for blockages, although a little bit dirty it wasnt blocked by any means. Next I checked that the thermostat was operating at the correct temperature using the pan on the hob method. No problems there. Ive dropped the leg and replaced the impellor (and given it a service while im at it, including new oils & filter). However the overheat alarm is still going off once its up to temperature. + +Is there any other potential causes of this overheating? Could the sensor have failed? Im at a bit of a loss now! Thanks.","Bump, nobody?","Bump, nobody?","Ayuh,... Yer lookin' at replacin' the ignition Switch,. not the ignition,..... + +You'll get better answers, askin' this in the Mercury Outboard section, rather than this forum,...." +"i bought this motor from a guy here that was once in business as a outboard repair guy ... when i bought it he ran it for me using 2 stroke mixed gas ( its a 4 stroke motor ) which i immediately questioned him on, he said its fine to do that for short periods of time....i could tell because the puddle under the motor was full of oil. it ran fine and the stream of cooling water was flowing out the back just fine. first time sea trial today....it was spraying out oil with the cooling water for the whole time we ran it ( could see the film on the ocean ) then the spray stopped completely except for the oil continued to lightly mist out the hole, i turned around and brought it back to shore right away and the temp light didnt come on yet .....I'm suspicious that what i saw on the test idle at his house was this, and he was being sneaky. any idea what is causing this ???","update.... ok so it had some salt debris in there that I cleaned out, so its pumping fine now but still has oil in it. not an outboard motor genius but this says to me lower gear case leak or head gasket leak ??","update.... ok so it had some salt debris in there that I cleaned out, so its pumping fine now but still has oil in it. not an outboard motor genius but this says to me lower gear case leak or head gasket leak ??","I would certainly go with an EasyOut (screw extractor) I would definitely take the head off to clean out any bits that may be inside there. It isn't such a bad job. Here are some videos I did doing that on a smaller Yamaha. https://youtu.be/rEMFx0Dm3LQ https://youtu.be/1tkuBGBRbrQ + +Best of luck, +Stuart" +"i bought this motor from a guy here that was once in business as a outboard repair guy ... when i bought it he ran it for me using 2 stroke mixed gas ( its a 4 stroke motor ) which i immediately questioned him on, he said its fine to do that for short periods of time....i could tell because the puddle under the motor was full of oil. it ran fine and the stream of cooling water was flowing out the back just fine. first time sea trial today....it was spraying out oil with the cooling water for the whole time we ran it ( could see the film on the ocean ) then the spray stopped completely except for the oil continued to lightly mist out the hole, i turned around and brought it back to shore right away and the temp light didnt come on yet .....I'm suspicious that what i saw on the test idle at his house was this, and he was being sneaky. any idea what is causing this ???",Are you sure its oil not fuel,Are you sure its oil not fuel,"That sounds like a plan. You should be able to see what's causing it. What type of boat? What type of hull - deep V, semi V? What is the beam?" +"i bought this motor from a guy here that was once in business as a outboard repair guy ... when i bought it he ran it for me using 2 stroke mixed gas ( its a 4 stroke motor ) which i immediately questioned him on, he said its fine to do that for short periods of time....i could tell because the puddle under the motor was full of oil. it ran fine and the stream of cooling water was flowing out the back just fine. first time sea trial today....it was spraying out oil with the cooling water for the whole time we ran it ( could see the film on the ocean ) then the spray stopped completely except for the oil continued to lightly mist out the hole, i turned around and brought it back to shore right away and the temp light didnt come on yet .....I'm suspicious that what i saw on the test idle at his house was this, and he was being sneaky. any idea what is causing this ???","flyingscott said: + + + + Are you sure its oil not fuel + +Click to expand... + + + +never even thought of that....how would fuel get in there ???","flyingscott said: + + + + Are you sure its oil not fuel + +Click to expand... + + + +never even thought of that....how would fuel get in there ???","That solenoid is used to release more fuel upon warm up and once the element inside the solenoid is warmed up it will close the extra fuel being sent to the carb. It does not turn the choke valve on the carb. You can check to make sure the solenoid is working properly by checking the resistance. Hook up a Multi Meter to the two wire leads and you should get 4.8 to 7.2 Ohms at 20 degree Celsius or 68 degrees F. You can also put 12 volts to the solenoid and after a couple of minutes you should see that metal needle move. The metal needle in shutting off the extra fuel that is needed when the engine is cold. +http://www.partspak.com/productcart...01-00-Starter-Set-6G81410A0100-2943p38307.htm +JON" +"i bought this motor from a guy here that was once in business as a outboard repair guy ... when i bought it he ran it for me using 2 stroke mixed gas ( its a 4 stroke motor ) which i immediately questioned him on, he said its fine to do that for short periods of time....i could tell because the puddle under the motor was full of oil. it ran fine and the stream of cooling water was flowing out the back just fine. first time sea trial today....it was spraying out oil with the cooling water for the whole time we ran it ( could see the film on the ocean ) then the spray stopped completely except for the oil continued to lightly mist out the hole, i turned around and brought it back to shore right away and the temp light didnt come on yet .....I'm suspicious that what i saw on the test idle at his house was this, and he was being sneaky. any idea what is causing this ???",Because the fuel is part of the exhaust which mixes with the water in the leg. If you have a carb/injector putting in to much gas. That will cause flooding which will cause what you are seeing or you have a cylinder not firing.,Because the fuel is part of the exhaust which mixes with the water in the leg. If you have a carb/injector putting in to much gas. That will cause flooding which will cause what you are seeing or you have a cylinder not firing.,"plain LED's don't like to be driven by voltage they are current driven. What you have to do is add a series resistor to the LED. Value is calculated by supply voltage minus forward bias voltage of the LED (usually 1.6 to 2.5V depending on type) divided by the nominal current as specified in the datasheet. +Better systems or systems with LED's in series use current sources as that keeps the current constant but if you only want to power 1 LED the series resistor works just fine. Just use the real nominal battery voltage (13.2V) to calculate the resistor and not the 12V. + +Unfortunately bondos math doesn't work here and would kill the LED's in no time especially over temperature." +"I hear a clicking noise from my outboard motor when I accelerate the motor in neutral. The noise does not come when the motor is idling and at low RPM. The attached video shows the sound. Took it to a mechanic and he told me this could be from the mounts and not to worry as it is not coming from the engine. It was not the case before and its bothering me. It seems to be coming from the flywheel area. + +Appreciate any help. + +https://youtu.be/ioLvOu_HpWk",Check your shift linkage may just need an adjustment sounds like it is just starting to go in gear,Check your shift linkage may just need an adjustment sounds like it is just starting to go in gear,"If it's a cruiser as Makomark said, it would be the same as jumping the starter on an older model automobile - jumper the key switch positive to the starter terminal (far right) to crank it. Once started, jumper the positive to the ""running"" terminal (switch on) and all should work as if the key was in the ignition switch. To turn it off, remove the jumper. + +Now, the tricky part is getting access to the terminals on the key switch. Some are completely sealed. Others can be accessed from the rear of the key switch, once removed from the console." +"Sorry to have to ask this question but after looking at the other posts regarding an overheat alarm I still don't see the same issue. This engine starts, idles for long periods at the dock without any alarm (solid beep). Taking the boat out after about 5 minutes of idling while in gear, the alarm started. Checking the temp the engine was running hot (over 200 F). The waer discharge was good but didn't see to be hot a all. Replaced thermostat and pressure spring/plunger, started engine again, water discharge now warm but not hot at idle with oodflo which increases with rpm. Took the boat out with no problems or alarm at both low and high speeds. Checked temp and in the 160 F range. Problem solved right? Nope! Next time out, alarm went off on way out in the no wake zone. Water pump replaced previously at the end of last season. Sensor tests good. Thinking of looking at the water pump although it has been replaced and seems to be pumping. What else?","My 90 Hp had an ""overheat"" alarm which would then slow engine to maximum of 1600 RPM. + + +Didn't seem or feel hot at all, but turned out that it actually was overheating. + + +I have a 1991 TLRP-90 and the Cylinder Head has two chambers, there was a pinhole leak (corrosion) from combustion chamber into the inner cooling chamber and after running for a while it would force the water out of this inner chamber. + + +You could hold a finger on the head for three seconds as cooling water was still flowing through that portion (outer chamber), but engine's temperature sensor is within the head against inner chamber and could sense the overheat condition. This failure was through top Cylinder into the head and overheat was localized close to the temperature sensor. This would usually not alarm until after running a short while at high speed, it was truly just a pinhole leak. + + +Never noticed any steam from pisser as there was still plenty of cooler water flowing through, but had to replace the head anyway. + + +You could test the temperature sensor and see what temperature closes its contacts, but if it checks OK, then you've got to believe it. I found out that my 'finger test' was not enough and damaged my engine by ignoring it. + +Pull the plugs after an alarm and check to see if water in one combustion chamber has really cleaned that sparkplug, don't recall seeing this on mine though, but I was convinced that the sensor was faulty... +Art","My 90 Hp had an ""overheat"" alarm which would then slow engine to maximum of 1600 RPM. + + +Didn't seem or feel hot at all, but turned out that it actually was overheating. + + +I have a 1991 TLRP-90 and the Cylinder Head has two chambers, there was a pinhole leak (corrosion) from combustion chamber into the inner cooling chamber and after running for a while it would force the water out of this inner chamber. + + +You could hold a finger on the head for three seconds as cooling water was still flowing through that portion (outer chamber), but engine's temperature sensor is within the head against inner chamber and could sense the overheat condition. This failure was through top Cylinder into the head and overheat was localized close to the temperature sensor. This would usually not alarm until after running a short while at high speed, it was truly just a pinhole leak. + + +Never noticed any steam from pisser as there was still plenty of cooler water flowing through, but had to replace the head anyway. + + +You could test the temperature sensor and see what temperature closes its contacts, but if it checks OK, then you've got to believe it. I found out that my 'finger test' was not enough and damaged my engine by ignoring it. + +Pull the plugs after an alarm and check to see if water in one combustion chamber has really cleaned that sparkplug, don't recall seeing this on mine though, but I was convinced that the sensor was faulty... +Art","The potential for condensation is really a lot lower than the common dock myth will lead you to believe....read the instructions on the stabilizer - proper quantity should work for six months with no problem....that said, if you want to evacuate the tank, get burn it in the truck...." +"My trim and tilt sometimes doesn't work in the up switch position. If I quickly hit the switch from down to up several times the trim will work in the up +position. Is this a relay assembly problem or something else? Any way to test if the relay assembly is the problem, without buying a new one? Any suggestions would be appreciated. + + +Thank you + +William","I would ohm the switch before you replace the relay. When up button is depressed you should have continuity between the red and blue leads going thru the switch. It seems your problem is intermittent so test several times. + +If you have continuity check connections, if they are good a relay is your most likely culprit.","I would ohm the switch before you replace the relay. When up button is depressed you should have continuity between the red and blue leads going thru the switch. It seems your problem is intermittent so test several times. + +If you have continuity check connections, if they are good a relay is your most likely culprit.","Another option is if the engine is fine, find a new hull. Theres a lot of sellers of boats out there, and if you find one with a bad engine more than likely the seller will be motivated." +"My trim and tilt sometimes doesn't work in the up switch position. If I quickly hit the switch from down to up several times the trim will work in the up +position. Is this a relay assembly problem or something else? Any way to test if the relay assembly is the problem, without buying a new one? Any suggestions would be appreciated. + + +Thank you + +William","jakedaawg said: + + + + I would ohm the switch before you replace the relay. When up button is depressed you should have continuity between the red and blue leads going thru the switch. It seems your problem is intermittent so test several times. If you have continuity check connections, if they are good a relay is your most likely culprit. + +Click to expand... + + Thanks Jake for the response, I did as you said and there is fire on the blue side of the relay when the up trim switch is pushed. If I push the down switch and while the trim motor is running down immediately push to up, then the motor will reverse. I'm assuming now that its probably a connection problem in the motor, corroded or loose on the up side. Do you know if I can get to these connections inside the motor before I remove the motor or is the only solution replacing the trim motor? Thanks again,","jakedaawg said: + + + + I would ohm the switch before you replace the relay. When up button is depressed you should have continuity between the red and blue leads going thru the switch. It seems your problem is intermittent so test several times. If you have continuity check connections, if they are good a relay is your most likely culprit. + +Click to expand... + + Thanks Jake for the response, I did as you said and there is fire on the blue side of the relay when the up trim switch is pushed. If I push the down switch and while the trim motor is running down immediately push to up, then the motor will reverse. I'm assuming now that its probably a connection problem in the motor, corroded or loose on the up side. Do you know if I can get to these connections inside the motor before I remove the motor or is the only solution replacing the trim motor? Thanks again,","View attachment 20212 +Found a problem in the bottom carburetor. The pilot jet tube has a big crack. + +I removed the carb to check it out. Tried soldering the crack but the solder wouldn't stick and I made it much worse as you can see + +View attachment 20213 + +I bought a brass tube at my local hobby store and tried to copy it. Couldn't really get the exact same diameter but got a close one, the tube is only a little thicker. Drilled out a bit on one end so the jet screw would fit but I couldn't replicate the holes at the bottom like the original because I don't have a table drill... The thing is I also can't figure out what they are for because they end up inside the carb wall as explained below: + + +Now I tried running the engine with the new made pilot and the cilinder fired in idle! So my guess is I did well. The only downside is that the engine is stuttering now when I let go of the throttle after revving up. (It's probably because the engine is now running on 2 cilinders and is out of sync or something) + +Could that be because I didn't replicate the tiny holes? Also tried and tested each cilinder individual and I was able to run on the bottom cilinder only but it's having a hard time. Have to give it more gas, but too much gas will stall the engine while running on the top one only allows me to throttle it up just fine. + +I tried playing with the air mixture screws but I also can't find that sweet spot." +"Just removed a Yamaha 50 2 stroke DETO from my back yard after 6 years or more stored without use in all weathers. +It started and ran beautifully (I drained the carbs before storing it and flushed out pump and pipework with new fuel before starting it). +It was put away working. +However... It only runs for about 30 seconds then stops. It does not stop in a fuelly, hesitant way. It stops as though switched off at the key, so as though the ignition has been removed immediately from all 3 cylinders. It starts again fine on the key and runs for a similar period. + +1) Is my suspicion about the type of stalling likely to be enough to go on- or should I invest in a spark tester. I think it will be hard to see if it is removal of ignition this way, because the moment ignition is removed the engine will stop and any spark tester will stop lighting up at the same time. Or is there a delay that will be noticeable; the spark stops then the motor stops shortly after? I ask because I've never owned a spark tester. To clarify it's not the cost of the tester that bothers me (less than £5 on ebay!), it's the waiting around for it to come in the post that I wish to avoid if I don't really need it. + +2) Any suggestions of obvious things to check first? The motor was put away working. Are there bad earths etc. that commonly cause such issues on these engines? + +3) I'm hoping it's not the CDI. + +Due to the fact the issue has come up after it has been stored in damp outdoor conditions I strongly suspect a coroded connection somewhere- but where should I be looking first?","When it stops does it sneeze right as it quits? + +Either way after sitting for six years I personally would go thru everything. Pressure test lower, refill with new lube. New fuel lines and filter. Dont forget to get the old gas out of the pump. Bleed oil pump. Run on 50:1 until you verify that you are using oil. Clean carbs. Compression and open air gap spark test. Clean all wire ends....Just go through the motor and then try starting again.","When it stops does it sneeze right as it quits? + +Either way after sitting for six years I personally would go thru everything. Pressure test lower, refill with new lube. New fuel lines and filter. Dont forget to get the old gas out of the pump. Bleed oil pump. Run on 50:1 until you verify that you are using oil. Clean carbs. Compression and open air gap spark test. Clean all wire ends....Just go through the motor and then try starting again.",Water was in the bottom of the cowling. Carburetors where completely rebuilt along with everything in the fuel system replaced. The only thing not replaced was the fuel pump. The fuel is fresh none ethanol with Startron marine treatment. I’m thinking the water was fouling out something in the wiring. I ran it on muffs the other day at idle but couldn’t find a leak anywhere. Plugs looked good as well. It may only leak at wot but that’s just me and guess work. Just after rebuilding the carburetors I was adjusting the idle on the lake . The boat started drifting toward a swimming area so I put it in reverse a little and a little water got into the cowling then. Then I ran across the lake at wot and it did the same sputtering and lost power. I pulled the cowling and wipe out the cowling with a paper towel and fished for awhile letting it dry out good. It ran fine the rest of the day. +"Just removed a Yamaha 50 2 stroke DETO from my back yard after 6 years or more stored without use in all weathers. +It started and ran beautifully (I drained the carbs before storing it and flushed out pump and pipework with new fuel before starting it). +It was put away working. +However... It only runs for about 30 seconds then stops. It does not stop in a fuelly, hesitant way. It stops as though switched off at the key, so as though the ignition has been removed immediately from all 3 cylinders. It starts again fine on the key and runs for a similar period. + +1) Is my suspicion about the type of stalling likely to be enough to go on- or should I invest in a spark tester. I think it will be hard to see if it is removal of ignition this way, because the moment ignition is removed the engine will stop and any spark tester will stop lighting up at the same time. Or is there a delay that will be noticeable; the spark stops then the motor stops shortly after? I ask because I've never owned a spark tester. To clarify it's not the cost of the tester that bothers me (less than £5 on ebay!), it's the waiting around for it to come in the post that I wish to avoid if I don't really need it. + +2) Any suggestions of obvious things to check first? The motor was put away working. Are there bad earths etc. that commonly cause such issues on these engines? + +3) I'm hoping it's not the CDI. + +Due to the fact the issue has come up after it has been stored in damp outdoor conditions I strongly suspect a coroded connection somewhere- but where should I be looking first?",It doesn't sneeze- just stops imediately as if switched off.,It doesn't sneeze- just stops imediately as if switched off.,"Yes. And we have all new spark plugs. Thanks. Checked and no water in gas and hput in new gas. New plugs. #4 is new carb.; compression check 2 times and all even around 150 psi; new gas line, no vacuum leaks, swapped coils 3 times; value adjustment checked; fuel pressure running at 4 psi. + +What is the psi for the fuel pump? Are there problems on this model T50 TLRC Yamaha 50 hp 4 stroke? What would you recommend we try? Thank you." +My engine runs rough when I put it in forward gear. It will run fine if I increase the throttle. If I put it in reverse it idles fine no roughness but as soon as I put it in forward gear it runs rough and might quit. That presents a problems when driving it onto my trailer. The model number is: C55ELRQ. It has two new carbs and a new fuel pump and new plugs. Coils have not been replaced. When It is in neutral it runs fine. What can it be? Help if you can. Thank you and have a great day.,A compression test is the most important trouble shooting step to do.----Report your numbers.----------Very little goes wrong with carburetors that warrants installing new ones !!,A compression test is the most important trouble shooting step to do.----Report your numbers.----------Very little goes wrong with carburetors that warrants installing new ones !!,Thanks for that. The three wires and connectors are right but the arm may still be a bit longer. Trying to load a photo of mine but failing. Clicked on photo emblem above. Found photo and added but won’t seem to upload to post. +My engine runs rough when I put it in forward gear. It will run fine if I increase the throttle. If I put it in reverse it idles fine no roughness but as soon as I put it in forward gear it runs rough and might quit. That presents a problems when driving it onto my trailer. The model number is: C55ELRQ. It has two new carbs and a new fuel pump and new plugs. Coils have not been replaced. When It is in neutral it runs fine. What can it be? Help if you can. Thank you and have a great day.,"Well I finally got myself a Actron compression tester and tested the engine. I got a solid reading of 140 psi on both cylinders. Here I will reiterate some of the problems of rough running. As I increase the throttle it continues to shutter or shake and when I reach a particular point the vibration,shaking and shuttering goes away and she runs like a scalded ape smooth as can be. There is something about the reverse gear. When I put it in reverse, I have to be very careful not to go too far down with the throttle handle or it will grind the gears instead of applying power. I can deal with all these things mentioned but would like to know if there is something I can do to eliminate them. If you need to ask me a particular question I will do my best to answer it. Thank you for you patience.","Well I finally got myself a Actron compression tester and tested the engine. I got a solid reading of 140 psi on both cylinders. Here I will reiterate some of the problems of rough running. As I increase the throttle it continues to shutter or shake and when I reach a particular point the vibration,shaking and shuttering goes away and she runs like a scalded ape smooth as can be. There is something about the reverse gear. When I put it in reverse, I have to be very careful not to go too far down with the throttle handle or it will grind the gears instead of applying power. I can deal with all these things mentioned but would like to know if there is something I can do to eliminate them. If you need to ask me a particular question I will do my best to answer it. Thank you for you patience.","Old fuel from last year? New fuel mixed with old? History on motor would help, First use this year? New owner of engine and boat? Was it stored properly last season? Serial # might help,year, What's your starting procedure? Any problems last year? The fact that once started she runs great eliminates compression and spark issues, Pull a fuel bowl and take a look before pulling carbs,it might give a clue, if not thread #2, Pull carbs,soak and clean thoroughly every nook and cranny,jets etc." +My engine runs rough when I put it in forward gear. It will run fine if I increase the throttle. If I put it in reverse it idles fine no roughness but as soon as I put it in forward gear it runs rough and might quit. That presents a problems when driving it onto my trailer. The model number is: C55ELRQ. It has two new carbs and a new fuel pump and new plugs. Coils have not been replaced. When It is in neutral it runs fine. What can it be? Help if you can. Thank you and have a great day.,"I only have two adjustable screws, one is for the idle and I don't know what the other one does. It sets on top of the carb near the rear. I have not made any adjustments at all. It was this way when I bought it. I just know that the carbs are new and the fuel pump is new and I put new plugs in myself, and as i said before it runs flawlessly once I pass the roughness. As far as hesitation there is none. I am going to check my manual and see if they identify the adjusting screw on top and if it's the slow pilot I will try adjusting it in the water. Thank you for your reply.","I only have two adjustable screws, one is for the idle and I don't know what the other one does. It sets on top of the carb near the rear. I have not made any adjustments at all. It was this way when I bought it. I just know that the carbs are new and the fuel pump is new and I put new plugs in myself, and as i said before it runs flawlessly once I pass the roughness. As far as hesitation there is none. I am going to check my manual and see if they identify the adjusting screw on top and if it's the slow pilot I will try adjusting it in the water. Thank you for your reply.",I was using muffs with a water hose for testing. +My engine runs rough when I put it in forward gear. It will run fine if I increase the throttle. If I put it in reverse it idles fine no roughness but as soon as I put it in forward gear it runs rough and might quit. That presents a problems when driving it onto my trailer. The model number is: C55ELRQ. It has two new carbs and a new fuel pump and new plugs. Coils have not been replaced. When It is in neutral it runs fine. What can it be? Help if you can. Thank you and have a great day.,Both carbs seem to open at the same time as they are ganged together and there is no play or slop in the mechanism.,Both carbs seem to open at the same time as they are ganged together and there is no play or slop in the mechanism.,"Sproutdreamer said: + + + + Hi Thanks for your response-my engine ID starts 6BLK? + +Click to expand... + +It starts with the number 6. + +Why the question? You have the motor. You should know if it starts with 6BLK. You should also know the rest of the letters and numbers. It is right there on the side of the motor. Just like it says in the owners manual. Surely you have written the ID down in your owners manual." +My engine runs rough when I put it in forward gear. It will run fine if I increase the throttle. If I put it in reverse it idles fine no roughness but as soon as I put it in forward gear it runs rough and might quit. That presents a problems when driving it onto my trailer. The model number is: C55ELRQ. It has two new carbs and a new fuel pump and new plugs. Coils have not been replaced. When It is in neutral it runs fine. What can it be? Help if you can. Thank you and have a great day.,I just checked my Service Manual and it calls it Pilot Screw and that's all it says about it.,I just checked my Service Manual and it calls it Pilot Screw and that's all it says about it.,Is it possible that this design just doesn't have the typical float being level with body measurement and float is intended to drop farther down? +"Is my 50 DETO trimming all the way in properly? It's slow to tilt both up and down but is working. I've bled it but this has not improved speed or range. The engine has been stored outside unused for 6 years. Photographs of it trimmed in as far as it will go. +I'll have to try to upload the pics separately below...","Neither phone or computer will let me upload to this site: +I've managed to get the pictures into Google+ though +https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/104514734447795254907/albums/6206745564724783041 + +I don't think it's trimming in fully","Neither phone or computer will let me upload to this site: +I've managed to get the pictures into Google+ though +https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/104514734447795254907/albums/6206745564724783041 + +I don't think it's trimming in fully",Beat the thing out. Forget about the block of wood. The cable will need to be replaced anyway. Just be careful not to mushroom the end so it will fit through the tilt tube. +"Is my 50 DETO trimming all the way in properly? It's slow to tilt both up and down but is working. I've bled it but this has not improved speed or range. The engine has been stored outside unused for 6 years. Photographs of it trimmed in as far as it will go. +I'll have to try to upload the pics separately below...","Further to this, it's worth pointing out that the main photo +Shows the engine on a vertical frame. Outboard transoms are of course not vertical. So a related question should be 'is it OK for my engine to trim in to about 10 degrees off vertical when mounted on a vertical frame?","Further to this, it's worth pointing out that the main photo +Shows the engine on a vertical frame. Outboard transoms are of course not vertical. So a related question should be 'is it OK for my engine to trim in to about 10 degrees off vertical when mounted on a vertical frame?","thank's for reply. checked out lanyard and ignition, both ok. could you tell me what oms should be for bench testing stator for 150 2001 yamaha" +"H folks, + +I have (had) a reliable 1999 40hp Yam 2 stroke with little hours. We hadn't run It since last year but it had been winterised and turned over monthly. I serviced it yesterday, gear oil change, impeller change, new plugs and new filter but when tested it is constantly in forward gear. All mechanisms under the hood are operating smoothly and engine is running/pumping water as is should. + +We had the tail off today and it seems the gear selector/ changer (in front of the impeller) doesn't select gear or neutral. When we turn dial when we're spinning prop there doesn't seem to be any change. + +Is there an issue with the gear box? Have I done something when I took tail off to change impeller? + +Any advice would be most welcome. I have two kids desperate to get some creels out. + +Ta Russ",Did you remove lower unit with control in nuetral ?---Forward ?----------------Did you ensure the lower unit was in nuetral and the control in nuetral when you put it together ??--------Or did you just hope that it would all be OK.-----Careful work is required here.,Did you remove lower unit with control in nuetral ?---Forward ?----------------Did you ensure the lower unit was in nuetral and the control in nuetral when you put it together ??--------Or did you just hope that it would all be OK.-----Careful work is required here.,"Hi Peter, +thanks for getting in touch! +my gearbox needed new clutch plates, however due to several things including the expense and the fact that unless the cable is set up exactly then it doesn't hold correctly in gear, I have gone to great expense to get a completely different box fitted - tho the boat yard has taken 2 months so far and still not completed it. I will look at your box on ebay. thanks + +If you know how to close this post now, please could you tell me or do it for me! thanks + +sarah" +"H folks, + +I have (had) a reliable 1999 40hp Yam 2 stroke with little hours. We hadn't run It since last year but it had been winterised and turned over monthly. I serviced it yesterday, gear oil change, impeller change, new plugs and new filter but when tested it is constantly in forward gear. All mechanisms under the hood are operating smoothly and engine is running/pumping water as is should. + +We had the tail off today and it seems the gear selector/ changer (in front of the impeller) doesn't select gear or neutral. When we turn dial when we're spinning prop there doesn't seem to be any change. + +Is there an issue with the gear box? Have I done something when I took tail off to change impeller? + +Any advice would be most welcome. I have two kids desperate to get some creels out. + +Ta Russ","Hi, + +thanks so so much for your reply. + +To be honest I followed an online guide that never mentioned checking controls were in neutral. I would guess they would have been as I wouldn't of left boat in gear over winter. If it was in forward when dismantled what is needed to fix? + +thanks again + +russ","Hi, + +thanks so so much for your reply. + +To be honest I followed an online guide that never mentioned checking controls were in neutral. I would guess they would have been as I wouldn't of left boat in gear over winter. If it was in forward when dismantled what is needed to fix? + +thanks again + +russ",Time to inspect the impeller and the housing for wear. +"H folks, + +I have (had) a reliable 1999 40hp Yam 2 stroke with little hours. We hadn't run It since last year but it had been winterised and turned over monthly. I serviced it yesterday, gear oil change, impeller change, new plugs and new filter but when tested it is constantly in forward gear. All mechanisms under the hood are operating smoothly and engine is running/pumping water as is should. + +We had the tail off today and it seems the gear selector/ changer (in front of the impeller) doesn't select gear or neutral. When we turn dial when we're spinning prop there doesn't seem to be any change. + +Is there an issue with the gear box? Have I done something when I took tail off to change impeller? + +Any advice would be most welcome. I have two kids desperate to get some creels out. + +Ta Russ","Thank you both for your replies. + +This sounds like it is a fair bit past my abilities. I think I'll admit defeat and put it to the pros, I wouldn't like to break it completely. + +thank you both again, next time I'll not be such a tight assed Scotsman and put it in for a service. + +cheers","Thank you both for your replies. + +This sounds like it is a fair bit past my abilities. I think I'll admit defeat and put it to the pros, I wouldn't like to break it completely. + +thank you both again, next time I'll not be such a tight assed Scotsman and put it in for a service. + +cheers","gotsea said: + + + + Chris, the only thing that should be connected to the ignition switch is the engine harness and your gauges, fuel, volts, temp, tac, oil pressure (if you have it), your gauges lights should run from your navigation lights, anything else should have separated switches power from a B+ buss behind the dash, that way you don't have to have your ignition on to have your electronics on, you should have two main wire gage # 8 running from your B+ and B- to your console, and from there get your power and ground. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you for the assist. +Chris" +"H folks, + +I have (had) a reliable 1999 40hp Yam 2 stroke with little hours. We hadn't run It since last year but it had been winterised and turned over monthly. I serviced it yesterday, gear oil change, impeller change, new plugs and new filter but when tested it is constantly in forward gear. All mechanisms under the hood are operating smoothly and engine is running/pumping water as is should. + +We had the tail off today and it seems the gear selector/ changer (in front of the impeller) doesn't select gear or neutral. When we turn dial when we're spinning prop there doesn't seem to be any change. + +Is there an issue with the gear box? Have I done something when I took tail off to change impeller? + +Any advice would be most welcome. I have two kids desperate to get some creels out. + +Ta Russ",What often happens is that it snaps into forward ( if taken apart in nuetral ) when you are not looking.-------So take it apart again.--------Control in nuetral.-----Gearcase in nuetral and re-assemle,What often happens is that it snaps into forward ( if taken apart in nuetral ) when you are not looking.-------So take it apart again.--------Control in nuetral.-----Gearcase in nuetral and re-assemle,"Well, I used both kinds because of my inexperience!! When I went to home depot and bought the fiberglass cloth, the salesperson said i should get the fiberglass resin...on the shelf next to the cloth..." +"H folks, + +I have (had) a reliable 1999 40hp Yam 2 stroke with little hours. We hadn't run It since last year but it had been winterised and turned over monthly. I serviced it yesterday, gear oil change, impeller change, new plugs and new filter but when tested it is constantly in forward gear. All mechanisms under the hood are operating smoothly and engine is running/pumping water as is should. + +We had the tail off today and it seems the gear selector/ changer (in front of the impeller) doesn't select gear or neutral. When we turn dial when we're spinning prop there doesn't seem to be any change. + +Is there an issue with the gear box? Have I done something when I took tail off to change impeller? + +Any advice would be most welcome. I have two kids desperate to get some creels out. + +Ta Russ","racerone said: + + + + What often happens is that it snaps into forward ( if taken apart in nuetral ) when you are not looking.-------So take it apart again.--------Control in nuetral.-----Gearcase in nuetral and re-assemle + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks racerone, + +that at sounds doable. How do I know when the gear as is in neutral? (Sorry for the million questions). + +thanks again + +russ","racerone said: + + + + What often happens is that it snaps into forward ( if taken apart in nuetral ) when you are not looking.-------So take it apart again.--------Control in nuetral.-----Gearcase in nuetral and re-assemle + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks racerone, + +that at sounds doable. How do I know when the gear as is in neutral? (Sorry for the million questions). + +thanks again + +russ","Every rule pump I've seen will pump water if its impeller is clean & spinning and the inlets/outlets are open. + +first check - impeller secure to the shaft? + +Second check - you said the (outlet) hose if fine - so check to make sure nothing has fouled the impeller and the strainer flows. + +last check - measure the current draw...a clamp on meter is ideal for a quick, non-invasive measurement. The current draw will vary with the head seen by the pump but should be close to the rated value (look on the pumps' data sheet) which will be much less than the recommended fuse size. + +No exchange/fixit program that I'm aware of. If the pump is still within the warranty window, they are usually pretty good about getting the replacement out fast." +"H folks, + +I have (had) a reliable 1999 40hp Yam 2 stroke with little hours. We hadn't run It since last year but it had been winterised and turned over monthly. I serviced it yesterday, gear oil change, impeller change, new plugs and new filter but when tested it is constantly in forward gear. All mechanisms under the hood are operating smoothly and engine is running/pumping water as is should. + +We had the tail off today and it seems the gear selector/ changer (in front of the impeller) doesn't select gear or neutral. When we turn dial when we're spinning prop there doesn't seem to be any change. + +Is there an issue with the gear box? Have I done something when I took tail off to change impeller? + +Any advice would be most welcome. I have two kids desperate to get some creels out. + +Ta Russ",Prop will spin with no resistance.,Prop will spin with no resistance.,"and see if it does leak at all. What are the options? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... Air test it at say 5 psi or less,....." +"I have a 1988 Yamaha 115. It's old, but it doesn't have a lot of hours on it. Last year, It ran hot and shut off. I have discovered that there was no actual piston damage, but in one cylinder there was a cracked thermostat cover and water leaked badly. On that cylinder, the piston expanded and now that it has cooled down, the rings are compressed and stuck. I've been told that there are products that you can put in the gas or spray and let sit in the cylinder that will loosen up the rings. +Again, the piston is in tact and there is no visible scoring of the cylinder. +Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated. I certainly don't want to have to dismantle this block to replace the rings. + +Thanks,","Re: 1988 115 with ""stuck rings"" + +hi, it sounds like your engine is seized due to poor cooling system and you have to overhaul the engine.","Re: 1988 115 with ""stuck rings"" + +hi, it sounds like your engine is seized due to poor cooling system and you have to overhaul the engine.","Yes, there are four wires in the harness to the remote oil tank. One pair for the electric oil pump ground. The other pair for the sensor switch ground. + +The ground for the pump is apparently good since you say that when you apply that ground the pump runs. What is unknown is if the other ground for the sensor switch is reaching the CDI. + +The sensor switch is there to prevent the remote tank from running completely out of oil without the user knowing it. With sufficient oil in the tank the switch will be closed. Ground applied to the CDI. CDI will command automatic transfer of oil. Up until the point that the float switch drops to a low oil level. The switch then opens. No more ground to the CDI. Auto transfer function is terminated. When the main tank gets low (because no more auto transfer of oil) the alarm sounds. Assume there is no spare oil in the boat. The user can now force the pump to run pumping what oil remains in the remote tank to the main tank. He best start heading for home." +"I have a 1988 Yamaha 115. It's old, but it doesn't have a lot of hours on it. Last year, It ran hot and shut off. I have discovered that there was no actual piston damage, but in one cylinder there was a cracked thermostat cover and water leaked badly. On that cylinder, the piston expanded and now that it has cooled down, the rings are compressed and stuck. I've been told that there are products that you can put in the gas or spray and let sit in the cylinder that will loosen up the rings. +Again, the piston is in tact and there is no visible scoring of the cylinder. +Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated. I certainly don't want to have to dismantle this block to replace the rings. + +Thanks,","Re: 1988 115 with ""stuck rings"" + +Nope. One cylinder has no compression due to compressed rings. The engine runs. Just doesn't idle well and and doens't make high RPM's.","Re: 1988 115 with ""stuck rings"" + +Nope. One cylinder has no compression due to compressed rings. The engine runs. Just doesn't idle well and and doens't make high RPM's.","A hanging float could cause that, but I've never heard of that being a problem. I would replace the VST filter and the needle valve. If you find that the old filter looks fine when you remove it, then measure the fuel pressure within 3 seconds at key-on, and again after the engine starts. Those values should be somewhere around 45 and 38 psi respectively. If those aren't right, then check for leaks and check the pressure regulator (making sure the fuel pressure drops as you add vacuum pressure). It might be stuck." +"I have a 1988 Yamaha 115. It's old, but it doesn't have a lot of hours on it. Last year, It ran hot and shut off. I have discovered that there was no actual piston damage, but in one cylinder there was a cracked thermostat cover and water leaked badly. On that cylinder, the piston expanded and now that it has cooled down, the rings are compressed and stuck. I've been told that there are products that you can put in the gas or spray and let sit in the cylinder that will loosen up the rings. +Again, the piston is in tact and there is no visible scoring of the cylinder. +Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated. I certainly don't want to have to dismantle this block to replace the rings. + +Thanks,","Re: 1988 115 with ""stuck rings"" + +That`s why I am saying that you have to open the engine to inspect why the ring getting compressed. Might be you have to change the piston and the rings.","Re: 1988 115 with ""stuck rings"" + +That`s why I am saying that you have to open the engine to inspect why the ring getting compressed. Might be you have to change the piston and the rings.",thank you got it sorted bad connections +"I have a 1988 Yamaha 115. It's old, but it doesn't have a lot of hours on it. Last year, It ran hot and shut off. I have discovered that there was no actual piston damage, but in one cylinder there was a cracked thermostat cover and water leaked badly. On that cylinder, the piston expanded and now that it has cooled down, the rings are compressed and stuck. I've been told that there are products that you can put in the gas or spray and let sit in the cylinder that will loosen up the rings. +Again, the piston is in tact and there is no visible scoring of the cylinder. +Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated. I certainly don't want to have to dismantle this block to replace the rings. + +Thanks,","Re: 1988 115 with ""stuck rings"" + +That's what I'm trying to avoid. Sometimes when you have an overheating situation, the cylinder contracts and the piston expands causing the rings to be forced into the piston groove with force. Once the motor cools, the rings usually spring back. Sometimes the rings are wedged into the poston groove and if they don't spring back out of the groove, you have a cylinder with little or no compression. Both OMC and Mercury make their own ""stuff"" that you pour into the cylinder and let it soak overnight and it will ofter loosen up the stuck rings and you're back in business. I was just wondering if Yamaha had a solution that they recommended. I found the Yamaha ""stuff"" it's something you mix with your gas and run the motor. I don't like that idea, so I got the OMC stuff and seems to be working. Sometimes, it takes a few treatments before the rings loosen up and compression is restored to normal. I've been working on outboards all my life. Now that I'm 50, it's just not as much fun as it used to be tearing one down. I'm learning to work ""smarter"" in my old age and use chemicals and patience to correct the problem if possible. I remember when I almost enjoyed having a motor screw up just so that I could tear it down, bore it out, re-jet the carb, shave the head.......... Now, just the thought of all of that makes me tired! Thanks for your suggestion. I'll see what I can accomplish without tearing it down.","Re: 1988 115 with ""stuck rings"" + +That's what I'm trying to avoid. Sometimes when you have an overheating situation, the cylinder contracts and the piston expands causing the rings to be forced into the piston groove with force. Once the motor cools, the rings usually spring back. Sometimes the rings are wedged into the poston groove and if they don't spring back out of the groove, you have a cylinder with little or no compression. Both OMC and Mercury make their own ""stuff"" that you pour into the cylinder and let it soak overnight and it will ofter loosen up the stuck rings and you're back in business. I was just wondering if Yamaha had a solution that they recommended. I found the Yamaha ""stuff"" it's something you mix with your gas and run the motor. I don't like that idea, so I got the OMC stuff and seems to be working. Sometimes, it takes a few treatments before the rings loosen up and compression is restored to normal. I've been working on outboards all my life. Now that I'm 50, it's just not as much fun as it used to be tearing one down. I'm learning to work ""smarter"" in my old age and use chemicals and patience to correct the problem if possible. I remember when I almost enjoyed having a motor screw up just so that I could tear it down, bore it out, re-jet the carb, shave the head.......... Now, just the thought of all of that makes me tired! Thanks for your suggestion. I'll see what I can accomplish without tearing it down.","Hey solinsky , it a fresh water motor. New impeeler kit ect... Im going to check the poppet valve tomorrow, maybe its clogged , but doesnt make any since , whike winterizing it was peeing fine." +"I have a 1988 Yamaha 115. It's old, but it doesn't have a lot of hours on it. Last year, It ran hot and shut off. I have discovered that there was no actual piston damage, but in one cylinder there was a cracked thermostat cover and water leaked badly. On that cylinder, the piston expanded and now that it has cooled down, the rings are compressed and stuck. I've been told that there are products that you can put in the gas or spray and let sit in the cylinder that will loosen up the rings. +Again, the piston is in tact and there is no visible scoring of the cylinder. +Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated. I certainly don't want to have to dismantle this block to replace the rings. + +Thanks,","hi, I really don`t have any idea is their any stuff like this but try it, if it`s fine then touchwood and do let me know the product name.","hi, I really don`t have any idea is their any stuff like this but try it, if it`s fine then touchwood and do let me know the product name.","You ain't wrong.... It definitely got messy last time we were out by the keys. + +Thanks again" +"I have a 1988 Yamaha 115. It's old, but it doesn't have a lot of hours on it. Last year, It ran hot and shut off. I have discovered that there was no actual piston damage, but in one cylinder there was a cracked thermostat cover and water leaked badly. On that cylinder, the piston expanded and now that it has cooled down, the rings are compressed and stuck. I've been told that there are products that you can put in the gas or spray and let sit in the cylinder that will loosen up the rings. +Again, the piston is in tact and there is no visible scoring of the cylinder. +Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated. I certainly don't want to have to dismantle this block to replace the rings. + +Thanks,",Wow this is and old post but I have nearly the exact problem on 1997 60hp Johnson. Top and bottom cylinders have compression of 120 and middle has 60...no scoring on cylinders. I was advised to use some Evinrude/Johnson Tune in a can but that takes running the engine and I want to do things before that so I looked into solutions that can be done before the running fix. It ran before I did a compression test but when finding the compression problem I kept searching I was told that a 50/50 mixture of Automatic transmission fluid and acetone works wonders and there are other unseize products in a can. I did not see any solutions on your post so I thought you might still be interested in a solution. Good Luck.,Wow this is and old post but I have nearly the exact problem on 1997 60hp Johnson. Top and bottom cylinders have compression of 120 and middle has 60...no scoring on cylinders. I was advised to use some Evinrude/Johnson Tune in a can but that takes running the engine and I want to do things before that so I looked into solutions that can be done before the running fix. It ran before I did a compression test but when finding the compression problem I kept searching I was told that a 50/50 mixture of Automatic transmission fluid and acetone works wonders and there are other unseize products in a can. I did not see any solutions on your post so I thought you might still be interested in a solution. Good Luck.,"Ayuh,..... You only need 2 stacks of blockin' under the transom, 'n a single stack under the keel,..... + +Racerone explains the process quite clearly,..... just as I've done many times, from little tinnys to a 34' houseboat,....." +"I have a 2014 G3 pontoon with a Yamaha T50 motor. It has run with no problems all summer. I went out today and no power tilt or ignition, accessories have power going to them. Could it be a fuse or faulty ground?",check battery connections and make sure battery is fully charged...,check battery connections and make sure battery is fully charged...,"Service Manual calls for the TPS check to output voltage. One volt with the throttle closed. + +Your screen shot is showing degrees." +"I have a 2014 G3 pontoon with a Yamaha T50 motor. It has run with no problems all summer. I went out today and no power tilt or ignition, accessories have power going to them. Could it be a fuse or faulty ground?","papyson said: + + + + check battery connections and make sure battery is fully charged... + +Click to expand... + +Connections good tried another battery fully charged no power at Motor but accessories work","papyson said: + + + + check battery connections and make sure battery is fully charged... + +Click to expand... + +Connections good tried another battery fully charged no power at Motor but accessories work",Or the antenna is taped together with the tach signal cable! +"I have a 2014 G3 pontoon with a Yamaha T50 motor. It has run with no problems all summer. I went out today and no power tilt or ignition, accessories have power going to them. Could it be a fuse or faulty ground?",not familiar with yammies but evinrude and merc has an inline fuse in the wiring harness in the wiring harness under the cowl..20 amp..,not familiar with yammies but evinrude and merc has an inline fuse in the wiring harness in the wiring harness under the cowl..20 amp..,"aliboy, Thanks, Will do. Keep you guys posted." +"I have a 2014 G3 pontoon with a Yamaha T50 motor. It has run with no problems all summer. I went out today and no power tilt or ignition, accessories have power going to them. Could it be a fuse or faulty ground?","papyson said: + + + + not familiar with yammies but evinrude and merc has an inline fuse in the wiring harness in the wiring harness under the cowl..20 amp.. + +Click to expand... + +I will look at that tomorrow. Thanks for your response, I really appreciate it","papyson said: + + + + not familiar with yammies but evinrude and merc has an inline fuse in the wiring harness in the wiring harness under the cowl..20 amp.. + +Click to expand... + +I will look at that tomorrow. Thanks for your response, I really appreciate it",Most likely situation is that one of your batteries is run down or dead and the regulator is putting out max voltage to try to charge it. How old are the batteries. Marine batteries should normally be replaced every four or five years. +"I'm stumped. + +My boat has twin 1989 Yamaha 200 HP outboards. When running in the Ocean I go through two rips that make the ocean violent and when I go through them one motor bogs down, I loose RPM but never stalls. I slow down from 4000 to 2500 for 15 seconds then get back up to 4000. This may happen two or three times.I believe it's a fuel issue. + +Once out of the rips and into the smooth it does not happen. + +I've already looked into the filters/fuel tank/anit-S valve and all looked good + +Could a carb float or fuel pump do this? + +Thanks!","Maybe its not fuel, maybe it's electrical because it doesn't bog down all the time. What tests should I do to see if it's electrical? + + I don't want to burn a piston!!!","Maybe its not fuel, maybe it's electrical because it doesn't bog down all the time. What tests should I do to see if it's electrical? + + I don't want to burn a piston!!!","ClassicAQ said: + + + + 1st.....never ever never ever run up ur rpms in neutral. Any thing above 1500 and ur asking for trouble. Doing so provides no diagnostic value or outcome, thus is useless. + +When in gear ear and throttling up if the engine sounds deep throaty then this is fuel related, most likely clogged jet(s). Pull carbs, pull jets, soak, clear....check floats to spec, reassemble. + +Click to expand... + + +Yup your right I should of never run the engine that high in neutral. I did have the carbs pulled apart and soaked in seafoam/ gas as the carbs were gummed up then reassembled . The same problem persists , when I throttle up in gear it sounds like it's only running on a couple of cylinders then it cuts out and doesn't sound throaty . The mechanic I'm using seems to think electrical problem as its intermittent any other ideas would be helpful." +"I'm stumped. + +My boat has twin 1989 Yamaha 200 HP outboards. When running in the Ocean I go through two rips that make the ocean violent and when I go through them one motor bogs down, I loose RPM but never stalls. I slow down from 4000 to 2500 for 15 seconds then get back up to 4000. This may happen two or three times.I believe it's a fuel issue. + +Once out of the rips and into the smooth it does not happen. + +I've already looked into the filters/fuel tank/anit-S valve and all looked good + +Could a carb float or fuel pump do this? + +Thanks!",I just noticed most of the posts here have 0 replies. Yikes!,I just noticed most of the posts here have 0 replies. Yikes!,okay thanks will take a look at shifting. any ideal why after almost 10 hours of operation this would be a problem is this normal for a new lower unit? +"I'm stumped. + +My boat has twin 1989 Yamaha 200 HP outboards. When running in the Ocean I go through two rips that make the ocean violent and when I go through them one motor bogs down, I loose RPM but never stalls. I slow down from 4000 to 2500 for 15 seconds then get back up to 4000. This may happen two or three times.I believe it's a fuel issue. + +Once out of the rips and into the smooth it does not happen. + +I've already looked into the filters/fuel tank/anit-S valve and all looked good + +Could a carb float or fuel pump do this? + +Thanks!","hairdresser100 said: + + + + I'm stumped. + +My boat has twin 1989 Yamaha 200 HP outboards. When running in the Ocean I go through two rips that make the ocean violent and when I go through them one motor bogs down, I loose RPM but never stalls. I slow down from 4000 to 2500 for 15 seconds then get back up to 4000. This may happen two or three times.I believe it's a fuel issue. + +Once out of the rips and into the smooth it does not happen. + +I've already looked into the filters/fuel tank/anit-S valve and all looked good + +Could a carb float or fuel pump do this? + +Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +I'm not expert on anything and certainly not a marine mechanic. I'm mechanical in nature, working on cars since the age of 10 but fairly new to the boating world. + +That being said, I fought a VERY similar issue to yours, unfortunately, for a couple of years, before it took a turn for the worse and I found a good Yamaha mech that actually knew what he was doing, instead of just sounding like he did. + +So, My engine and boat is a 1992 Yam 250 TXRQ on a 21ft Aquasport Walk-Around. I run mine primarily in a bay, but it's quite busy on the weekends, lots of large wake. Mine would run great until the boat started bouncing or having to plow through some larger wakes. the RPM would go up and down with each wave or bounce. Went back and forth to the shop, lost the better part of two seasons with it being at the shop. I kept asking the shop to check the carbs and pumps, and every time, they'd tell me it wasn't the carbs and pumps, that they ""looked good"". + +2 seasons ago, I replaced alot of the original stuff myself including new fuel tank, fuel lines, sender, filters, everything fuel related up to the fuel pumps. + +I replaced that stuff because it needed it. The original tank had too many holes to be fixed. It was after this that issues with the boat really started, which really through off the trouble shooting for me. I followed the advice of a lot of other folks from various sources telling me to check this, that and the other. + +At the beginning of this season to make a long story short, The boat wouldn't run at all off idle. It would start fine, then as soon as I put it in gear, it would die. + +I replaced the plugs, found one bad plug wire and replaced that by replacing the entire coil and went out and ran it. It seemed to run great, but was down about 10mph slower off WOT normal top speed. Wierd, but lots of possibilities as to the cause so I wasn't immediately overly concerned. But then upon returning, I throttled down to idle in the ""No Wake"" zone, and the engine took an immediate turn, and began running pretty badly. Bad vibration, smoky as hell. Engine had a BAD miss. At least one cylinder wasn't firing. Whole back of the boat was sooted up. + +I pulled the plugs, and found that there were two of my 6 cylinders that hadn't fired at all on the entire 45 minute run. The 2 plugs looked brand new. + +I took it to a new shop, and within 24 hours sent me pictures of two green carbs. Those carbs had to be in rough shape for the last 2-3 years at least. They looked ridiculously bad. + +So, That's MY experience with your symptoms. Take it for what it's worth. + +It cost me $2k to get the carbs and pumps rebuilt, all new fuel line on the engine side, new oil injection line, new carb linkage that the previous shop cracked and jimmy-rigged with a cable tie (no joke), etc. + +But the boat hasn't given me any issues ever since. It's been used nearly every weekend, hard, for the last 8 or 9 weeks now, and it's been great.","hairdresser100 said: + + + + I'm stumped. + +My boat has twin 1989 Yamaha 200 HP outboards. When running in the Ocean I go through two rips that make the ocean violent and when I go through them one motor bogs down, I loose RPM but never stalls. I slow down from 4000 to 2500 for 15 seconds then get back up to 4000. This may happen two or three times.I believe it's a fuel issue. + +Once out of the rips and into the smooth it does not happen. + +I've already looked into the filters/fuel tank/anit-S valve and all looked good + +Could a carb float or fuel pump do this? + +Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +I'm not expert on anything and certainly not a marine mechanic. I'm mechanical in nature, working on cars since the age of 10 but fairly new to the boating world. + +That being said, I fought a VERY similar issue to yours, unfortunately, for a couple of years, before it took a turn for the worse and I found a good Yamaha mech that actually knew what he was doing, instead of just sounding like he did. + +So, My engine and boat is a 1992 Yam 250 TXRQ on a 21ft Aquasport Walk-Around. I run mine primarily in a bay, but it's quite busy on the weekends, lots of large wake. Mine would run great until the boat started bouncing or having to plow through some larger wakes. the RPM would go up and down with each wave or bounce. Went back and forth to the shop, lost the better part of two seasons with it being at the shop. I kept asking the shop to check the carbs and pumps, and every time, they'd tell me it wasn't the carbs and pumps, that they ""looked good"". + +2 seasons ago, I replaced alot of the original stuff myself including new fuel tank, fuel lines, sender, filters, everything fuel related up to the fuel pumps. + +I replaced that stuff because it needed it. The original tank had too many holes to be fixed. It was after this that issues with the boat really started, which really through off the trouble shooting for me. I followed the advice of a lot of other folks from various sources telling me to check this, that and the other. + +At the beginning of this season to make a long story short, The boat wouldn't run at all off idle. It would start fine, then as soon as I put it in gear, it would die. + +I replaced the plugs, found one bad plug wire and replaced that by replacing the entire coil and went out and ran it. It seemed to run great, but was down about 10mph slower off WOT normal top speed. Wierd, but lots of possibilities as to the cause so I wasn't immediately overly concerned. But then upon returning, I throttled down to idle in the ""No Wake"" zone, and the engine took an immediate turn, and began running pretty badly. Bad vibration, smoky as hell. Engine had a BAD miss. At least one cylinder wasn't firing. Whole back of the boat was sooted up. + +I pulled the plugs, and found that there were two of my 6 cylinders that hadn't fired at all on the entire 45 minute run. The 2 plugs looked brand new. + +I took it to a new shop, and within 24 hours sent me pictures of two green carbs. Those carbs had to be in rough shape for the last 2-3 years at least. They looked ridiculously bad. + +So, That's MY experience with your symptoms. Take it for what it's worth. + +It cost me $2k to get the carbs and pumps rebuilt, all new fuel line on the engine side, new oil injection line, new carb linkage that the previous shop cracked and jimmy-rigged with a cable tie (no joke), etc. + +But the boat hasn't given me any issues ever since. It's been used nearly every weekend, hard, for the last 8 or 9 weeks now, and it's been great.",The brakes are sold in pairs. You need to have one brake on one side and the other on the opposite side same axle. When done in salt water I always washed down the calipers when flushing the engine. The disc brake system I had installed was Tie Down's stainless system. +40 hp 2 stroke Yamaha has cylinder down plenty of spark bit no fuel getting to bottom cylinder any help would be good possible Reed valves are stuck?,Reed valves do not stick closed.-----Reed valves have nothing to do with compression in the cylinder either.----Check the carburetor.-----Check compression on the low cylinder too.,Reed valves do not stick closed.-----Reed valves have nothing to do with compression in the cylinder either.----Check the carburetor.-----Check compression on the low cylinder too.,"a good voltmeter can give you a lot of insight into whats going on with the wiring....XPS units are usually flawless....so the batteries may be ok if the unit is configured correctly...a load test is always a good idea... + +I'd start with the primary wiring back to the motor....making sure you don't have any significant voltage drop thru the battery cables. The motor itself could be giving up the ghost....a clamp on amp meter could help in assessing the motor's health.... + +lastly it could be the remote controller hookup....separate each connector in check each pin/socket for a clean connection. + +most likely, its a bad connection somewhere....not hard to find but could take a while...." +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I have a 115 hp Yamaha 2 stroke V4 using premix. I've always found it hard to start when cold. I've learned to start the motor while on the trailer hooked into the garden hose by pulling 1 spark plug and putting gas into the cylinder before I head to the beach. The motor fires immediately. Once I've done this and the motor runs for a few minutes, the motor works well. It's just something that I've learned to do. The carbs have been cleaned to within an inch of their lives on several occasions. I've checked everything I can think of to get the engine to start when cold. + +This thread has been extensively explored by other posters. The most common reply is that the carbs are dirty or the jets clogged. + +One thing I've never understood is if 1 carb has clogged jets, is that enough to cause the motor to not fire? Would 3 carbs (or 2) working be enough to allow the motor to fire? Do ALL of the carbs have to have clogged jets at the same time? Once the engine fires, the jets would still be clogged and the engine will run. Why? + +Any thoughts?","Clogged jets will not stop it from starting. Clogged jets will usually cause a rough or no idle condition. + +Assuming your choke solenoid is working, Pull the carb cover off and try to start the engine when cold. Make sure the choke is closing all the way. The rubber gasket between the carb cover and the carb body will swell up over time and interfere with the choke butterfly not allowing it to close completely. + + +If all looks good with the choke, Do a compression test and a leak down test.","Clogged jets will not stop it from starting. Clogged jets will usually cause a rough or no idle condition. + +Assuming your choke solenoid is working, Pull the carb cover off and try to start the engine when cold. Make sure the choke is closing all the way. The rubber gasket between the carb cover and the carb body will swell up over time and interfere with the choke butterfly not allowing it to close completely. + + +If all looks good with the choke, Do a compression test and a leak down test.","trynhooker said: + + + + correct, pieces 8, 9 and 10. You might be able to see under there while it's running on the flush rig. You might need a telescoping mirror to see clearly + +Click to expand... + + +Well, it appeared to be dry in that area. Family wanted to use the boat this weekend so I went ahead and put it in. The normal stream is flowing very fast so it's clearly getting cooled well. I'm going to keep an eye on it and as long as it doesn't change in September I'll haul it to a guy that I trust a little further away who told me it was only a $200 fix. This is used on a relatively small private lake so even if one of the kids overheat it, they can phone someone to come get them and if it gets toasted I'll buy a new motor. + +thanks + +steve" +"I have a 2001 Yamaha 100 four stroke that is leaking oil out a little hole in the lower unit. What could this be from? +Lower unit is full and the oil is full. Motor oil is full. +any suggestions? + +Steve",Have you checked the oil filter? perhaps the rubber seal is not sitting properly on the oil filter..,Have you checked the oil filter? perhaps the rubber seal is not sitting properly on the oil filter..,"Generally, on any boat with exposed wooden pieces, do a lot of sanding down to the bare wood, then coat it with a very good marine varnish, if you want to preserve the appearance of the wood, or coat it with a very good marine epoxy paint. Jamestown Distributors and West Marine on the Internet have some very good ""How To"" videos and papers on various restoration projects. + +The same really goes for the fiberglass, unless you are dealing with gelcoat, which doesn't sound like the case. Fortunately, there are some really good paints out there now for coating fiberglass. Again, see Jamestown Distributors, or West Marine. + +This really is a project you can do yourself, given time and patience." +"I operate 20 Yamaha outboards. 5of them are 2005 F30ELHD (Carbureted) and 15 are 2011 F40LEHA(Injected). These are mounted +on the back of 17' Boston Whalers. They operate for out 2 hours aday at full throttle and 10 to 12 hours a day at trolling speeds (lowidle). These motors are operated for two months (July and August) andthen shipped to our maintenance facility to be thoroughly serviced and storedfor 9 months. The very first day of our season this year the boatsstarted going out fishing. With in a short period of time we were gettingreports of motor problems. Some needed to be towed back and somelimped in on there own. Checking things out we found that the engineswere making oil an had a fuel odor about it and it appeared that the pee steamwas excessive. Two days before operations started we were fueled with7,000 liters of gas tainted with diesel. Probably about a 60/40 to70/30 mixture diesel favoring the high side. We had some clean gason hand and borrowed some from neighbors and started mixing good withbad trying to get the motors to run better. We ran themotors for about three weeks like this. We were pumping out the oiland putting back in about a liter and a half leaving it a littlelow for room for the bad fuel. The oil changes were occurring 2 to 3 timesa day per motor. Our docks looked like a Nascar Pit stop. We did notchange the filters. Three weeks later the fuel barge arrived pumped outthe bad fuel and filled us with clean gasoline. I might add that this isEthanol free fuel. After running clean fuel the motors startedrunning better but not at a 100%. Some were still making oil and notdeveloping full power. + + +Now that the motors are going to be put to rest for 9 to 10 monthswhat I do with them? What is the long term damage? Howreliable are they gong to be next season? What is the trade invalue? Is this classified as damage history? + +Here is my first quote. 20 new F40LEHA @ $5,967.00each Totaling $119,340.00 with a trade in value on old motors of $1,850.00per motor Totaling $37,000.00. Balance of $82,340.00. 30%deposit ($24,702.00) financing $57,638.00. $5,0000 interest over 2years + +Or do I send them in and spend up to $1,850.00 per motor to have them repaired and gamble that that it might cost less. + + +Hoping insurance kicks in and covers a good portion of this. + +Anybody who has experienced Diesel in their Gasoline or whatever feel free too comment + +CharlieCharlie","My experience with diesel in gasoline is that it is not a game changer. As the ratio of diesel to gasoline increases, eventually the cylinder will not fire. + +I would suggest doing a compression test on several of the motors and compare the results. Check against specs for the engine. The pull the cylinder heads and inspect the valves and tops of the pistons. There might be diesel residue remaining. + +It is also possible that diesel oil residue has caused the rings to become stuck. + +The compression test might give you a clue as to how to proceed. Hope it works out well.","My experience with diesel in gasoline is that it is not a game changer. As the ratio of diesel to gasoline increases, eventually the cylinder will not fire. + +I would suggest doing a compression test on several of the motors and compare the results. Check against specs for the engine. The pull the cylinder heads and inspect the valves and tops of the pistons. There might be diesel residue remaining. + +It is also possible that diesel oil residue has caused the rings to become stuck. + +The compression test might give you a clue as to how to proceed. Hope it works out well.","You need to get a factory service manual. +You need to provide a model number +Probably not an oil pump failure.think about it ,how many cylinders how many oil pumps?? +Most common,malfunctioning carburator,how many carbs how many cylinders?" +"I operate 20 Yamaha outboards. 5of them are 2005 F30ELHD (Carbureted) and 15 are 2011 F40LEHA(Injected). These are mounted +on the back of 17' Boston Whalers. They operate for out 2 hours aday at full throttle and 10 to 12 hours a day at trolling speeds (lowidle). These motors are operated for two months (July and August) andthen shipped to our maintenance facility to be thoroughly serviced and storedfor 9 months. The very first day of our season this year the boatsstarted going out fishing. With in a short period of time we were gettingreports of motor problems. Some needed to be towed back and somelimped in on there own. Checking things out we found that the engineswere making oil an had a fuel odor about it and it appeared that the pee steamwas excessive. Two days before operations started we were fueled with7,000 liters of gas tainted with diesel. Probably about a 60/40 to70/30 mixture diesel favoring the high side. We had some clean gason hand and borrowed some from neighbors and started mixing good withbad trying to get the motors to run better. We ran themotors for about three weeks like this. We were pumping out the oiland putting back in about a liter and a half leaving it a littlelow for room for the bad fuel. The oil changes were occurring 2 to 3 timesa day per motor. Our docks looked like a Nascar Pit stop. We did notchange the filters. Three weeks later the fuel barge arrived pumped outthe bad fuel and filled us with clean gasoline. I might add that this isEthanol free fuel. After running clean fuel the motors startedrunning better but not at a 100%. Some were still making oil and notdeveloping full power. + + +Now that the motors are going to be put to rest for 9 to 10 monthswhat I do with them? What is the long term damage? Howreliable are they gong to be next season? What is the trade invalue? Is this classified as damage history? + +Here is my first quote. 20 new F40LEHA @ $5,967.00each Totaling $119,340.00 with a trade in value on old motors of $1,850.00per motor Totaling $37,000.00. Balance of $82,340.00. 30%deposit ($24,702.00) financing $57,638.00. $5,0000 interest over 2years + +Or do I send them in and spend up to $1,850.00 per motor to have them repaired and gamble that that it might cost less. + + +Hoping insurance kicks in and covers a good portion of this. + +Anybody who has experienced Diesel in their Gasoline or whatever feel free too comment + +CharlieCharlie","lander12; + +sorry for the slow reply. I just got back from getting all 20 motors to our shop for repairs. I think you are correct in doing a full inspection of he engines. I like you feel that a compression and/or leak down test will give us some good information. + +Yamaha has supplied us with their product ""Ring Free Plus"". Suppose to free up sticky rings, valves an help deglaze the cylinders. + +Will keep you informed as to what we find. + +Charliecharlie + + + + +lander12 said: + + + + My experience with diesel in gasoline is that it is not a game changer. As the ratio of diesel to gasoline increases, eventually the cylinder will not fire. + +I would suggest doing a compression test on several of the motors and compare the results. Check against specs for the engine. The pull the cylinder heads and inspect the valves and tops of the pistons. There might be diesel residue remaining. + +It is also possible that diesel oil residue has caused the rings to become stuck. + +The compression test might give you a clue as to how to proceed. Hope it works out well. + +Click to expand...","lander12; + +sorry for the slow reply. I just got back from getting all 20 motors to our shop for repairs. I think you are correct in doing a full inspection of he engines. I like you feel that a compression and/or leak down test will give us some good information. + +Yamaha has supplied us with their product ""Ring Free Plus"". Suppose to free up sticky rings, valves an help deglaze the cylinders. + +Will keep you informed as to what we find. + +Charliecharlie + + + + +lander12 said: + + + + My experience with diesel in gasoline is that it is not a game changer. As the ratio of diesel to gasoline increases, eventually the cylinder will not fire. + +I would suggest doing a compression test on several of the motors and compare the results. Check against specs for the engine. The pull the cylinder heads and inspect the valves and tops of the pistons. There might be diesel residue remaining. + +It is also possible that diesel oil residue has caused the rings to become stuck. + +The compression test might give you a clue as to how to proceed. Hope it works out well. + +Click to expand...","Maybe I'm all washed up here but based on what I see and exploded parts diagrams the cdi is on the starboard side of the engine, the side that it's laying on. I got the carb stamp from the very top of the carb closest to the flywheel..." +"I operate 20 Yamaha outboards. 5of them are 2005 F30ELHD (Carbureted) and 15 are 2011 F40LEHA(Injected). These are mounted +on the back of 17' Boston Whalers. They operate for out 2 hours aday at full throttle and 10 to 12 hours a day at trolling speeds (lowidle). These motors are operated for two months (July and August) andthen shipped to our maintenance facility to be thoroughly serviced and storedfor 9 months. The very first day of our season this year the boatsstarted going out fishing. With in a short period of time we were gettingreports of motor problems. Some needed to be towed back and somelimped in on there own. Checking things out we found that the engineswere making oil an had a fuel odor about it and it appeared that the pee steamwas excessive. Two days before operations started we were fueled with7,000 liters of gas tainted with diesel. Probably about a 60/40 to70/30 mixture diesel favoring the high side. We had some clean gason hand and borrowed some from neighbors and started mixing good withbad trying to get the motors to run better. We ran themotors for about three weeks like this. We were pumping out the oiland putting back in about a liter and a half leaving it a littlelow for room for the bad fuel. The oil changes were occurring 2 to 3 timesa day per motor. Our docks looked like a Nascar Pit stop. We did notchange the filters. Three weeks later the fuel barge arrived pumped outthe bad fuel and filled us with clean gasoline. I might add that this isEthanol free fuel. After running clean fuel the motors startedrunning better but not at a 100%. Some were still making oil and notdeveloping full power. + + +Now that the motors are going to be put to rest for 9 to 10 monthswhat I do with them? What is the long term damage? Howreliable are they gong to be next season? What is the trade invalue? Is this classified as damage history? + +Here is my first quote. 20 new F40LEHA @ $5,967.00each Totaling $119,340.00 with a trade in value on old motors of $1,850.00per motor Totaling $37,000.00. Balance of $82,340.00. 30%deposit ($24,702.00) financing $57,638.00. $5,0000 interest over 2years + +Or do I send them in and spend up to $1,850.00 per motor to have them repaired and gamble that that it might cost less. + + +Hoping insurance kicks in and covers a good portion of this. + +Anybody who has experienced Diesel in their Gasoline or whatever feel free too comment + +CharlieCharlie","CharlieCharlie said: + + + + lander12; + +sorry for the slow reply. I just got back from getting all 20 motors to our shop for repairs. I think you are correct in doing a full inspection of he engines. I like you feel that a compression and/or leak down test will give us some good information. + +Yamaha has supplied us with their product ""Ring Free Plus"". Suppose to free up sticky rings, valves an help deglaze the cylinders. + +Will keep you informed as to what we find. + +Charliecharlie + +Click to expand... + + +I think that you will be OK when the smoke clears- please pardon the pun. I frequently run a small amount of diesel oil in my fuel in 4 stroke engines- lubricates the upper cylinder area.","CharlieCharlie said: + + + + lander12; + +sorry for the slow reply. I just got back from getting all 20 motors to our shop for repairs. I think you are correct in doing a full inspection of he engines. I like you feel that a compression and/or leak down test will give us some good information. + +Yamaha has supplied us with their product ""Ring Free Plus"". Suppose to free up sticky rings, valves an help deglaze the cylinders. + +Will keep you informed as to what we find. + +Charliecharlie + +Click to expand... + + +I think that you will be OK when the smoke clears- please pardon the pun. I frequently run a small amount of diesel oil in my fuel in 4 stroke engines- lubricates the upper cylinder area.","Take it back to the mechanic, If he did a 100 hour service and rebuilt the lower unit he needs to do it again." +"I operate 20 Yamaha outboards. 5of them are 2005 F30ELHD (Carbureted) and 15 are 2011 F40LEHA(Injected). These are mounted +on the back of 17' Boston Whalers. They operate for out 2 hours aday at full throttle and 10 to 12 hours a day at trolling speeds (lowidle). These motors are operated for two months (July and August) andthen shipped to our maintenance facility to be thoroughly serviced and storedfor 9 months. The very first day of our season this year the boatsstarted going out fishing. With in a short period of time we were gettingreports of motor problems. Some needed to be towed back and somelimped in on there own. Checking things out we found that the engineswere making oil an had a fuel odor about it and it appeared that the pee steamwas excessive. Two days before operations started we were fueled with7,000 liters of gas tainted with diesel. Probably about a 60/40 to70/30 mixture diesel favoring the high side. We had some clean gason hand and borrowed some from neighbors and started mixing good withbad trying to get the motors to run better. We ran themotors for about three weeks like this. We were pumping out the oiland putting back in about a liter and a half leaving it a littlelow for room for the bad fuel. The oil changes were occurring 2 to 3 timesa day per motor. Our docks looked like a Nascar Pit stop. We did notchange the filters. Three weeks later the fuel barge arrived pumped outthe bad fuel and filled us with clean gasoline. I might add that this isEthanol free fuel. After running clean fuel the motors startedrunning better but not at a 100%. Some were still making oil and notdeveloping full power. + + +Now that the motors are going to be put to rest for 9 to 10 monthswhat I do with them? What is the long term damage? Howreliable are they gong to be next season? What is the trade invalue? Is this classified as damage history? + +Here is my first quote. 20 new F40LEHA @ $5,967.00each Totaling $119,340.00 with a trade in value on old motors of $1,850.00per motor Totaling $37,000.00. Balance of $82,340.00. 30%deposit ($24,702.00) financing $57,638.00. $5,0000 interest over 2years + +Or do I send them in and spend up to $1,850.00 per motor to have them repaired and gamble that that it might cost less. + + +Hoping insurance kicks in and covers a good portion of this. + +Anybody who has experienced Diesel in their Gasoline or whatever feel free too comment + +CharlieCharlie",Their fuel came in by barge- the fuel company probably delivered diesel to a customer and then used the same barge to deliver gasoline.,Their fuel came in by barge- the fuel company probably delivered diesel to a customer and then used the same barge to deliver gasoline.,"Got it, thanks. Pulled the windshield and dash tonight and confirm that the switch has poor continuity on the down side. Jumped 12V to the pins on the boat/harness side and motor ran up and down without issue. Old siwtch is out, and new switch is on order. + +Thanks, +Terry" +"I operate 20 Yamaha outboards. 5of them are 2005 F30ELHD (Carbureted) and 15 are 2011 F40LEHA(Injected). These are mounted +on the back of 17' Boston Whalers. They operate for out 2 hours aday at full throttle and 10 to 12 hours a day at trolling speeds (lowidle). These motors are operated for two months (July and August) andthen shipped to our maintenance facility to be thoroughly serviced and storedfor 9 months. The very first day of our season this year the boatsstarted going out fishing. With in a short period of time we were gettingreports of motor problems. Some needed to be towed back and somelimped in on there own. Checking things out we found that the engineswere making oil an had a fuel odor about it and it appeared that the pee steamwas excessive. Two days before operations started we were fueled with7,000 liters of gas tainted with diesel. Probably about a 60/40 to70/30 mixture diesel favoring the high side. We had some clean gason hand and borrowed some from neighbors and started mixing good withbad trying to get the motors to run better. We ran themotors for about three weeks like this. We were pumping out the oiland putting back in about a liter and a half leaving it a littlelow for room for the bad fuel. The oil changes were occurring 2 to 3 timesa day per motor. Our docks looked like a Nascar Pit stop. We did notchange the filters. Three weeks later the fuel barge arrived pumped outthe bad fuel and filled us with clean gasoline. I might add that this isEthanol free fuel. After running clean fuel the motors startedrunning better but not at a 100%. Some were still making oil and notdeveloping full power. + + +Now that the motors are going to be put to rest for 9 to 10 monthswhat I do with them? What is the long term damage? Howreliable are they gong to be next season? What is the trade invalue? Is this classified as damage history? + +Here is my first quote. 20 new F40LEHA @ $5,967.00each Totaling $119,340.00 with a trade in value on old motors of $1,850.00per motor Totaling $37,000.00. Balance of $82,340.00. 30%deposit ($24,702.00) financing $57,638.00. $5,0000 interest over 2years + +Or do I send them in and spend up to $1,850.00 per motor to have them repaired and gamble that that it might cost less. + + +Hoping insurance kicks in and covers a good portion of this. + +Anybody who has experienced Diesel in their Gasoline or whatever feel free too comment + +CharlieCharlie","Hi Kimcrwbr1: + +Thank you for you reply. Stay tuned in. I will keep you informed. No one got hurt. I made the decision. Everyone had a great fishing experience. You have to know little more about our remoteness before you can pass judgment. We are kind of new at this. next year will be our +47th year in business. But it was our first year of bad fuel. There is always a new adventure to deal with. oh yeah I forgot There were no bucks saved not even two. + +Once again thank you for your reply","Hi Kimcrwbr1: + +Thank you for you reply. Stay tuned in. I will keep you informed. No one got hurt. I made the decision. Everyone had a great fishing experience. You have to know little more about our remoteness before you can pass judgment. We are kind of new at this. next year will be our +47th year in business. But it was our first year of bad fuel. There is always a new adventure to deal with. oh yeah I forgot There were no bucks saved not even two. + +Once again thank you for your reply","schreck425 said: + + + + Bought a 24' pontoon. Came with a 90TLR. Didn't get a huge amount of use before I got it. + +First time I took it out it ran great. I wish I could have video of it but it felt much stronger. If my memory is right then it was hitting nearly 5500 RPMs on WOT. Ran 20 minutes across the bay and suddenly it came to a stop. About threw us off the front of the boat it gave out so quickly. We found that the throttle cable in the engine came loose, so we reconnected it and docked it. It seems to be connected properly. + +The very next time I took it out, it felt weaker. If before the throttle went from a scale to 1-10 from idle to WOT, now I feel more like 0-8. The engine frequently dies at idle and has to be restarted. I have to give it some gas constantly. That and when I go WOT I only can get 4500 RPM now. I'm still new to this boat but I have video of us taking it the first time out and it sure looks like it goes faster. That and I remember how much we slowed down when the cable gave way, it was a huge change. Now at WOT I don't feel like it would stop hard like that because its going too slow. + +Steps I've tried. + +- Looked at the throttle cable, it doesn't look like it could connect any other way. The little switch can really go any further when I put it in WOT. +- Seafoam / Yamaha carb cleaner. +- Replaced Spark Plugs. All 3 seemed to be firing when we take them off one by one. All 3 old ones looked the same. Nothing significant that I know of. + +Could the idle circuit on the carb be plugged? Maybe that's why it dies at idle? Wouldn't explain the lack of RPM unless that path also delivers fuel on WOT and now it can't? + +I'm no mechanic btw. Don't claim to be either. + +Click to expand... + + +What year is the engine? Being that the engine was running great as you mentioned prior to the throttle cable issue, my initial assessment is the throttle cable is still the issue. Rather, the installation of the throttle cable was not properly installed. The engine stalling while idling, coupled with the lack of throttle you're able to apply (rpms), suggests to me the throttle plates are closing when the throttle is in idle position. They should never be completely closed. This too points to improper installation of throttle cable. + +Reply back with engine year/model number and we'll go from there." +"I left boat sitting in salt water for over a month, came back and started it and it ran fine but when i put it in gear it shut down about 3 times, i trim the motor up and noticed that the prop would not budge in neutral does anyone have an idea how i could free this",You would take boat out of the water.--------Then check gearcase oil condition.------Possibly there is lots of water in the gearcase.--------Ran seemingly OK last time it was used ???,You would take boat out of the water.--------Then check gearcase oil condition.------Possibly there is lots of water in the gearcase.--------Ran seemingly OK last time it was used ???,Do your test first.-----I do not believe there is an exhaust leak.-----But I am not there to do any trouble shooting.----I think there might be a simple fix for this. +"I left boat sitting in salt water for over a month, came back and started it and it ran fine but when i put it in gear it shut down about 3 times, i trim the motor up and noticed that the prop would not budge in neutral does anyone have an idea how i could free this",Yes it ran fine,Yes it ran fine,"kkofoed said: + + + + Thank Bondo, I did find a diagram on how the PAS works. In the meantime I connected both cables to the PAS, both helms now steer but are still very difficult and jerky. I am thinking I really need to connect the upper steering helm to the lower helm. Then have a single cable go to the PAS. Unfortunately I cannot find a rack & pinion cable that goes from one rack & pinion helm to the other rack & pinion helm. I see where I can order the a rotary system that will work but would require me to replaced all helms and cables (too much $$$). Do you know of any one that makes custom steering cables? Thanks + +View attachment 16607View attachment 16608 + +Click to expand... + +If you even have the room under the dash for the rotary system. By any chance is the lower helm a non feedback helm?" +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I am presently considering buying a 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is a 1990 3 cylinder. I have not actually seen the unit. It is being sold as ""for parts or repair"". + +The bottom cylinder has scored walls and no compression- the owner says that it might have been caused by a broken ring. + +I am considering buying it as a winter project for my 18 foot Sunbird cuddy. + +I am wondering if the engine block will survive a re-boring and larger pistons? Sometimes the distance between the cylinders is not sufficient to allow the re-boring. I realize that a lot depends on how deep the scoring has gone. + +I suppose the easiest fix (and probably the least expensive) would be a power head swap. + +Thanks",Easy to rebore those.---------That is if it is now standard bore and not bored out already.,Easy to rebore those.---------That is if it is now standard bore and not bored out already.,"boscoe said: + + + + There is no lock or brake inherent in the motor. I would suspect that the rings are corroded to the cylinder walls. + +Just to make sure that it is not something within the lower unit however I would remove the lower unit and then see if the flywheel can be rotated. + +Click to expand... + + +Boscoe, thanks for confirming that there is no lock or brake. + +I personally find it strange that the pistons move 1cm up/down. Surely the rings would not have that much 'play' in the piston, or do you think the rings can ""move"" that much whilst corroded in the cylinder? + +I'll take the lower part off, just to make sure nothing is blocking the shaft. + +Thanks." +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I am presently considering buying a 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is a 1990 3 cylinder. I have not actually seen the unit. It is being sold as ""for parts or repair"". + +The bottom cylinder has scored walls and no compression- the owner says that it might have been caused by a broken ring. + +I am considering buying it as a winter project for my 18 foot Sunbird cuddy. + +I am wondering if the engine block will survive a re-boring and larger pistons? Sometimes the distance between the cylinders is not sufficient to allow the re-boring. I realize that a lot depends on how deep the scoring has gone. + +I suppose the easiest fix (and probably the least expensive) would be a power head swap. + +Thanks",Thanks for the post. I believe that the block has not been previously re-bored. Would it be more cost effective to re-bore with larger pistons or re-bore with cylinder liners and use same pistons if they are still serviceable?,Thanks for the post. I believe that the block has not been previously re-bored. Would it be more cost effective to re-bore with larger pistons or re-bore with cylinder liners and use same pistons if they are still serviceable?,"Update: The timing belt is new according to someone that knows and can be replaced without the flywheel coming off. + +Just to repeat the sequence of events: + +1) Voltage reading reads too high, reaching 16V and flashing on the instruments +2) Disconnect battery negative terminal and use engine for 20 minutes while on a short journey. Battery poles are brand new but wire connectors are quite rusty. +3) Reconnect battery negative terminal and re-tighten the wing nuts. Miraculously voltage reading now reads a perfect 13.8-14.2V while engine is running. +4) Boat is being used thus for 5 weeks. +5) Suddenly one day voltage reading again starts to increase, eventually exceeding 17V. Instruments flashing. Tested voltage on battery poles with multimeter and it agrees with the instruments. +6) Decide to disconnect the positive battery terminal to ""save the battery from this abuse"". Engine drives OK for about 3 minutes and then stops and does not start again. As if I had removed the kill switch. There is a definitive smell of burn from the engine but even with the cover off, we cannot identify the part. +7) There is no spark at the plugs. There is no voltage detected before the spark coils (assuming the meter would detect a voltage pulse). +8) Whilst cranking the engine I detected 6V AC coming to the rectifier's connector from the stator - three wires in total. I am assuming there is ""life"" in the stator and maybe it has not melted. +9) Everything points to the CDI. Or maybe, complete destruction of the Rectifier/Regulator that has the side-effect of not letting the engine start at all?" +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I am presently considering buying a 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is a 1990 3 cylinder. I have not actually seen the unit. It is being sold as ""for parts or repair"". + +The bottom cylinder has scored walls and no compression- the owner says that it might have been caused by a broken ring. + +I am considering buying it as a winter project for my 18 foot Sunbird cuddy. + +I am wondering if the engine block will survive a re-boring and larger pistons? Sometimes the distance between the cylinders is not sufficient to allow the re-boring. I realize that a lot depends on how deep the scoring has gone. + +I suppose the easiest fix (and probably the least expensive) would be a power head swap. + +Thanks",Re-bore and fit o/s pistons is the only way to do this !!,Re-bore and fit o/s pistons is the only way to do this !!,Get rid of that tank !------Or put a parachute on while out on your boat. +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I am presently considering buying a 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is a 1990 3 cylinder. I have not actually seen the unit. It is being sold as ""for parts or repair"". + +The bottom cylinder has scored walls and no compression- the owner says that it might have been caused by a broken ring. + +I am considering buying it as a winter project for my 18 foot Sunbird cuddy. + +I am wondering if the engine block will survive a re-boring and larger pistons? Sometimes the distance between the cylinders is not sufficient to allow the re-boring. I realize that a lot depends on how deep the scoring has gone. + +I suppose the easiest fix (and probably the least expensive) would be a power head swap. + +Thanks",Duly noted- thanks.,Duly noted- thanks.,"OH... before you put the Injectors back into the fuel rail... pull the rail and balst it with carb cleaner as well. With the lower fuel line off that feeds the rail off, turn the key several times to the on position and back off to flush that well or squeeze the fuel bulb a few times to manually flush that line just in case there is gunk in there." +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I am presently considering buying a 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is a 1990 3 cylinder. I have not actually seen the unit. It is being sold as ""for parts or repair"". + +The bottom cylinder has scored walls and no compression- the owner says that it might have been caused by a broken ring. + +I am considering buying it as a winter project for my 18 foot Sunbird cuddy. + +I am wondering if the engine block will survive a re-boring and larger pistons? Sometimes the distance between the cylinders is not sufficient to allow the re-boring. I realize that a lot depends on how deep the scoring has gone. + +I suppose the easiest fix (and probably the least expensive) would be a power head swap. + +Thanks","The gentleman is asking $500.00 CDN for the motor with control box and cables. The motor was owned by a fisherman down on the coast and naturally was a salt water motor. My experience with fishermen is that equipment is not generally well maintained and is high hours. I mean no offence to other fishermen who are reading this post. I'm presently trying to get detailed pictures of the motor since for me to go look at it is a 4 hour round trip. I also wonder what incident contributed to the scoring of the bottom cylinder...sometimes you need to act like Lieutenant Columbo... + +Then again, I'm looking for a winter project as well as a challenge...keeps me out of the tavern.","The gentleman is asking $500.00 CDN for the motor with control box and cables. The motor was owned by a fisherman down on the coast and naturally was a salt water motor. My experience with fishermen is that equipment is not generally well maintained and is high hours. I mean no offence to other fishermen who are reading this post. I'm presently trying to get detailed pictures of the motor since for me to go look at it is a 4 hour round trip. I also wonder what incident contributed to the scoring of the bottom cylinder...sometimes you need to act like Lieutenant Columbo... + +Then again, I'm looking for a winter project as well as a challenge...keeps me out of the tavern.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + No, compressed air if fine. + + + + +If debris was lodged in the telltale hose nearest the water exit then its possible there is more debris in the hose nearest the block. Water discharge from the telltale hose is not the only point of water exiting the cooling system....there are multiple points on the LU as well. So if you see water exiting these LU points, but do not see water exiting the telltale, and your overheat alarm doesn't trigger, then its safe to assume water is reaching/cooling the motor. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes water comes out when I have the hose on the flush attachment at the bottom at least. I hope the rain stops today so I can try to get it cleaned out. Thanks I will let you know how i make out. Alan" +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I am presently considering buying a 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is a 1990 3 cylinder. I have not actually seen the unit. It is being sold as ""for parts or repair"". + +The bottom cylinder has scored walls and no compression- the owner says that it might have been caused by a broken ring. + +I am considering buying it as a winter project for my 18 foot Sunbird cuddy. + +I am wondering if the engine block will survive a re-boring and larger pistons? Sometimes the distance between the cylinders is not sufficient to allow the re-boring. I realize that a lot depends on how deep the scoring has gone. + +I suppose the easiest fix (and probably the least expensive) would be a power head swap. + +Thanks",Look this motor over very carefully for corrosion.----Knows issues with corrosion on lower mounts even in fresh water.------------Have the owner send some pictures perhaps.-----Might save you a trip.-----Aluminum on them may not be of a high quality.,Look this motor over very carefully for corrosion.----Knows issues with corrosion on lower mounts even in fresh water.------------Have the owner send some pictures perhaps.-----Might save you a trip.-----Aluminum on them may not be of a high quality.,A photo of the carburetors might be useful. +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I am presently considering buying a 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is a 1990 3 cylinder. I have not actually seen the unit. It is being sold as ""for parts or repair"". + +The bottom cylinder has scored walls and no compression- the owner says that it might have been caused by a broken ring. + +I am considering buying it as a winter project for my 18 foot Sunbird cuddy. + +I am wondering if the engine block will survive a re-boring and larger pistons? Sometimes the distance between the cylinders is not sufficient to allow the re-boring. I realize that a lot depends on how deep the scoring has gone. + +I suppose the easiest fix (and probably the least expensive) would be a power head swap. + +Thanks","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + If the gearbox and prop look beat ask him if he will pay you to haul it off Do not transfer money sight unseen how much do you get for scrap aluminum where you live? + +Click to expand... + + +In the pictures I have so far, the prop is missing. As far as scrap, it probably would not pay me back for my fuel to go there. I would not buy sight unseen-I try to avoid aggravation whenever possible. At present, I consider the unit as a parts unit; if it turns out to be salvageable, that's a bonus. + +But the drive might be nice with the changing leaves down that way. I might ask my wife to go along in hopes she would buy lunch.","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + If the gearbox and prop look beat ask him if he will pay you to haul it off Do not transfer money sight unseen how much do you get for scrap aluminum where you live? + +Click to expand... + + +In the pictures I have so far, the prop is missing. As far as scrap, it probably would not pay me back for my fuel to go there. I would not buy sight unseen-I try to avoid aggravation whenever possible. At present, I consider the unit as a parts unit; if it turns out to be salvageable, that's a bonus. + +But the drive might be nice with the changing leaves down that way. I might ask my wife to go along in hopes she would buy lunch.","flyingscott said: + + + + If you tip the motor up the carbs will drain if it drained while it was level then you need to check your carbs or do you have a fuel line leaking + +Click to expand... + + +Flyindscott...the motor was level (in the operating position)...I did check fuel lines and did not see any evidence of leaks...nor did the lower cowling look like it was getting soaked in gas on a regular bases...however, the front of the trailer was higher than the rear of the boat/motor so I wonder if (even though the tank was depressurized) I was getting a gravity feed...the gas tank is up in the bow for better weight distribution...but still lower than where the hose attaches to the motor + + +Do you know if it is OK to run an oil injected motor until the carbs are dry...I've read both ways do and don't..." +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I am presently considering buying a 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is a 1990 3 cylinder. I have not actually seen the unit. It is being sold as ""for parts or repair"". + +The bottom cylinder has scored walls and no compression- the owner says that it might have been caused by a broken ring. + +I am considering buying it as a winter project for my 18 foot Sunbird cuddy. + +I am wondering if the engine block will survive a re-boring and larger pistons? Sometimes the distance between the cylinders is not sufficient to allow the re-boring. I realize that a lot depends on how deep the scoring has gone. + +I suppose the easiest fix (and probably the least expensive) would be a power head swap. + +Thanks","racerone said: + + + + Look this motor over very carefully for corrosion.----Knows issues with corrosion on lower mounts even in fresh water.------------Have the owner send some pictures perhaps.-----Might save you a trip.-----Aluminum on them may not be of a high quality. + +Click to expand... + + +Pictures seem difficult to get- none were posted to the original ad. In the pictures I did get, the motor seemed appropriate for the motors history as I know it.","racerone said: + + + + Look this motor over very carefully for corrosion.----Knows issues with corrosion on lower mounts even in fresh water.------------Have the owner send some pictures perhaps.-----Might save you a trip.-----Aluminum on them may not be of a high quality. + +Click to expand... + + +Pictures seem difficult to get- none were posted to the original ad. In the pictures I did get, the motor seemed appropriate for the motors history as I know it.","and unfortuntely the hull has developed what I blive to be an electrolyses hole, + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... How big a hole,..?? + +Where abouts in the hull,..?? + +Unless yer usin' the hull to conduct electricity, it's probably plain ole corrosion,....." +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I am presently considering buying a 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is a 1990 3 cylinder. I have not actually seen the unit. It is being sold as ""for parts or repair"". + +The bottom cylinder has scored walls and no compression- the owner says that it might have been caused by a broken ring. + +I am considering buying it as a winter project for my 18 foot Sunbird cuddy. + +I am wondering if the engine block will survive a re-boring and larger pistons? Sometimes the distance between the cylinders is not sufficient to allow the re-boring. I realize that a lot depends on how deep the scoring has gone. + +I suppose the easiest fix (and probably the least expensive) would be a power head swap. + +Thanks",Update when you have it at home.,Update when you have it at home.,"Well, the engine got another set of coils from another boat (no change), then we put the carbs from that same other engine on it (again, no change). We even hooked it up to another fresh can of gas with a completely new fuel hose and the engine runs the same as it did before. Vintage Seadoo 2-strokes used to have a similar problem if the rectifier was going bad, can something similar happen to these Yama outboards? Last thing I can think of what it could be is a case leak, but that's such an uncommon thing I feel like.... this engine has been rebuilt previously (about 3yr ago), but I have a hard time believing a case leak could just form. I feel like I've run out of straws to grasp..." +"Hello to the group and good day. + +I am presently considering buying a 90 hp 2 stroke Yamaha outboard. It is a 1990 3 cylinder. I have not actually seen the unit. It is being sold as ""for parts or repair"". + +The bottom cylinder has scored walls and no compression- the owner says that it might have been caused by a broken ring. + +I am considering buying it as a winter project for my 18 foot Sunbird cuddy. + +I am wondering if the engine block will survive a re-boring and larger pistons? Sometimes the distance between the cylinders is not sufficient to allow the re-boring. I realize that a lot depends on how deep the scoring has gone. + +I suppose the easiest fix (and probably the least expensive) would be a power head swap. + +Thanks",15 year old motor used in salt water by a commercial fisherman?you are a glutton for punishment?,15 year old motor used in salt water by a commercial fisherman?you are a glutton for punishment?,When the torque comes from the engine the pinion is PUSHED UP on most motors.----Don't think yours is any different. +"Hi everyone, hoping to get some info/advice, my 9.9 isn't pumping water up to the top and out the ""p"" hole. I've changed the water pump and housing, and still nothing is pumping any water up top. I dropped the lower unit and tried blowing air up the water hose and I'm not getting air out of either water outlet port (top or bottom) should i pull the plate off an inspect the water runners? Thanks for any help!",I probably would pull the engine off the outboard- this would allow you to inspect coolant passages in the motor as well as from the water pump. I had a 25 Suzuki with a portion of a broken off water pump fin lodged in the water passage just going into the motor.,I probably would pull the engine off the outboard- this would allow you to inspect coolant passages in the motor as well as from the water pump. I had a 25 Suzuki with a portion of a broken off water pump fin lodged in the water passage just going into the motor.,"I had a similar issue several years ago and after a bunch of fruitless Internet searches, ended up calling the manufacturer to find out whether the gauges I wanted to use were compatible with the ohm scale on the sending unit on my old Johnson. I ended up using the gauge, but changing the sending unit." +"Hi,My 1990 engine started rattling last year, it only dose it when up on the plane and I back off the throttle. So far I have replaced (in order) main end bearings, re bored & replaced Pistons, rebuilt the lower unit and it still rattles! I've got it started and removed the pull starter assembly and it was just the same. The gear selection lever feels smooth. I'm running out of ideas, here's a video of it doing it i + +https://youtu.be/-otZWV3eIKQ + +Thanks Steve","If the link didn't work try just putting the following into Google; + +yamaha 25hp rattle + +Thanks Steve","If the link didn't work try just putting the following into Google; + +yamaha 25hp rattle + +Thanks Steve",Not yet I ordered the manual for the engine and a friend will look at it as I am back up in Pa again and the boat is in Florida. Yes it was the throttle only button. You are probably correct I will forward your advice to my friend. Thanks I will let you know after he looks at it. +"Hello Forum, + +I have had many boats over the years but recently bout a small fishing boat with my first ever outboard. It an approximately 22 year old Yamaha 25 hp long shaft (oil injected). It looks well taken care of and starts on the first/second pull every time. + +I took the boat out for the first time a couple of days ago and the motor ran great. After the outing i flushed it with clean water about 5-10 minutes. killed the nmotor and depressurized the fuel tank. + +The next day I noticed a dark spot under the motor. It appears that all of the gas in the carbs drained out and ran down the low end. + +Should I have disconnected the fuel lines and ran the motor dry. I have read that that is a bad thing for injected motors. Am I storing this outboard wrong? Any advice is appreciated. I have already looked in the Yamaha owners manual...no info there... + +Scott",Normal because you ran it for 5-10 minutes the motor does not get warm enough to burn all the fuel mix off. You probably would not have noticed it if you didn't run it to flush it. Otherwise perfectly normal for a two stroke outboard,Normal because you ran it for 5-10 minutes the motor does not get warm enough to burn all the fuel mix off. You probably would not have noticed it if you didn't run it to flush it. Otherwise perfectly normal for a two stroke outboard,Sounds like it is too lean at idle.---Try opening low speed mixture needles 1/4 turn at a time.------Or throttle plates are opening too early.--------So operate / bump the choke when you are giving it gas.----Or have an assistant spray fuel into carburetors when opening throttle.-----No $$ spent so far in a little testing. +"Hello Forum, + +I have had many boats over the years but recently bout a small fishing boat with my first ever outboard. It an approximately 22 year old Yamaha 25 hp long shaft (oil injected). It looks well taken care of and starts on the first/second pull every time. + +I took the boat out for the first time a couple of days ago and the motor ran great. After the outing i flushed it with clean water about 5-10 minutes. killed the nmotor and depressurized the fuel tank. + +The next day I noticed a dark spot under the motor. It appears that all of the gas in the carbs drained out and ran down the low end. + +Should I have disconnected the fuel lines and ran the motor dry. I have read that that is a bad thing for injected motors. Am I storing this outboard wrong? Any advice is appreciated. I have already looked in the Yamaha owners manual...no info there... + +Scott",You do not need to run the motor dry just put a good marine fuel stabilizer in the fuel,You do not need to run the motor dry just put a good marine fuel stabilizer in the fuel,"I do realize the plug is there for a reason, I'm just trying to find out what that reason is. In my experience manufacturers put a plug in place because in some instances the plug won't be used. If the electrical connections were supposed to always be in contact then why have a removable plug. It would make more sense to have continuous wiring to lessen the chance of corrosion, or in my case, the plug falling out." +"Hello Forum, + +I have had many boats over the years but recently bout a small fishing boat with my first ever outboard. It an approximately 22 year old Yamaha 25 hp long shaft (oil injected). It looks well taken care of and starts on the first/second pull every time. + +I took the boat out for the first time a couple of days ago and the motor ran great. After the outing i flushed it with clean water about 5-10 minutes. killed the nmotor and depressurized the fuel tank. + +The next day I noticed a dark spot under the motor. It appears that all of the gas in the carbs drained out and ran down the low end. + +Should I have disconnected the fuel lines and ran the motor dry. I have read that that is a bad thing for injected motors. Am I storing this outboard wrong? Any advice is appreciated. I have already looked in the Yamaha owners manual...no info there... + +Scott","flyingscott said: + + + + Normal because you ran it for 5-10 minutes the motor does not get warm enough to burn all the fuel mix off. You probably would not have noticed it if you didn't run it to flush it. Otherwise perfectly normal for a two stroke outboard + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the response! I was just surprised that the carbs drained out and the bowls emptied into the cowling (then ran down the outside of the low end)...I depressurized the fuel line by opening the tank cap...doesn't seem ""normal"" for the carb bowls to empty out...but I've never owned an outboard...I do keep stabilizer in the fuel always... + +Mahalo!","flyingscott said: + + + + Normal because you ran it for 5-10 minutes the motor does not get warm enough to burn all the fuel mix off. You probably would not have noticed it if you didn't run it to flush it. Otherwise perfectly normal for a two stroke outboard + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the response! I was just surprised that the carbs drained out and the bowls emptied into the cowling (then ran down the outside of the low end)...I depressurized the fuel line by opening the tank cap...doesn't seem ""normal"" for the carb bowls to empty out...but I've never owned an outboard...I do keep stabilizer in the fuel always... + +Mahalo!","sogboat said: + + + + + + + +Furthermore, can any one tell me.. +Should #1 freely move, or does it have to be running to move it? Assuming this is forward / reverse? Cuz mine is seemingly stuck. + +What is #2, #3 for? + +Click to expand... + + +You're in luck. A free digital download of your engines service manual is here: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...amaha-shop-manuals/608-1992-yamaha-4n-5n/file + +#1 is the gear shifter. It should move into forward and reverse freely, though shifting into either gear should only be done when crankshaft is spinning (engine running). In reference to the 2nd video...that is the starter neutral in gear protection. Its purpose is to prevent the engine from starting if the gear shifter is not in neutral. + +Not sure what #2 is. #3 looks to be the manual trim/tilt lever. + +In reference to your 1st video. I find it best to use the word ""engaged"" when referring to the choke, as to not get confused with the carb butterfly as open or closed. So if the choke is engaged, the butterfly is closed, thereby decreasing the amount of air into the intake, thus causing a rich mix for cold starting. The choke should be engaged for first start of the day. After the engine is warm you should no longer need the choke engaged. From the video, it looks as though the tiller throttle is not functioning. When the engine is running in neutral as it is in the video, when you turn the throttle grip the rpms should increase or decrease. + +With the engine off, neutral gear, and cowling off, twist the tiller grip to max throttle then back to no throttle. Watch the throttle cable where it attaches to the throttle lever near or on the carb. As you twist the throttle grip, the cable should be also pulling the throttle lever open and releasing to close. If not, then you've got an issue with the throttle cable. + +RE: Smoking +Looks to be an excessive amount of smoke. However, it looks as though the prop boss was not completely submerged. When submerged, exhaust exiting prop boss would not be seen since it's underwater. Another note...it's an old 2 stroke. Excessive smoking is not uncommon. Just be sure you've got the proper fuelil ratio mixed per yamaha's suggested ratio. + +Now that you have a service manual, follow the instructions in the section ""periodic adjustment and maintenance"" for applying grease. You'll need a tube of marine grease, a grease gun, and a zirk fitting for the gun. Grease all points. Who knows how long its been since the engine was properly greased. It could be the reason the shifter is not moving." +"Hello Forum, + +I have had many boats over the years but recently bout a small fishing boat with my first ever outboard. It an approximately 22 year old Yamaha 25 hp long shaft (oil injected). It looks well taken care of and starts on the first/second pull every time. + +I took the boat out for the first time a couple of days ago and the motor ran great. After the outing i flushed it with clean water about 5-10 minutes. killed the nmotor and depressurized the fuel tank. + +The next day I noticed a dark spot under the motor. It appears that all of the gas in the carbs drained out and ran down the low end. + +Should I have disconnected the fuel lines and ran the motor dry. I have read that that is a bad thing for injected motors. Am I storing this outboard wrong? Any advice is appreciated. I have already looked in the Yamaha owners manual...no info there... + +Scott",If you tip the motor up the carbs will drain if it drained while it was level then you need to check your carbs or do you have a fuel line leaking,If you tip the motor up the carbs will drain if it drained while it was level then you need to check your carbs or do you have a fuel line leaking,So what actually happened to your motor.----------Your post is not clear. +"Hello Forum, + +I have had many boats over the years but recently bout a small fishing boat with my first ever outboard. It an approximately 22 year old Yamaha 25 hp long shaft (oil injected). It looks well taken care of and starts on the first/second pull every time. + +I took the boat out for the first time a couple of days ago and the motor ran great. After the outing i flushed it with clean water about 5-10 minutes. killed the nmotor and depressurized the fuel tank. + +The next day I noticed a dark spot under the motor. It appears that all of the gas in the carbs drained out and ran down the low end. + +Should I have disconnected the fuel lines and ran the motor dry. I have read that that is a bad thing for injected motors. Am I storing this outboard wrong? Any advice is appreciated. I have already looked in the Yamaha owners manual...no info there... + +Scott","flyingscott said: + + + + If you tip the motor up the carbs will drain if it drained while it was level then you need to check your carbs or do you have a fuel line leaking + +Click to expand... + + +Flyindscott...the motor was level (in the operating position)...I did check fuel lines and did not see any evidence of leaks...nor did the lower cowling look like it was getting soaked in gas on a regular bases...however, the front of the trailer was higher than the rear of the boat/motor so I wonder if (even though the tank was depressurized) I was getting a gravity feed...the gas tank is up in the bow for better weight distribution...but still lower than where the hose attaches to the motor + + +Do you know if it is OK to run an oil injected motor until the carbs are dry...I've read both ways do and don't...","flyingscott said: + + + + If you tip the motor up the carbs will drain if it drained while it was level then you need to check your carbs or do you have a fuel line leaking + +Click to expand... + + +Flyindscott...the motor was level (in the operating position)...I did check fuel lines and did not see any evidence of leaks...nor did the lower cowling look like it was getting soaked in gas on a regular bases...however, the front of the trailer was higher than the rear of the boat/motor so I wonder if (even though the tank was depressurized) I was getting a gravity feed...the gas tank is up in the bow for better weight distribution...but still lower than where the hose attaches to the motor + + +Do you know if it is OK to run an oil injected motor until the carbs are dry...I've read both ways do and don't...","GLVAndy said: + + + + I have a Merc Scorpion 5.7L - replaced batteries 3 years ago and have noticed that when in idle my gauge shows the charge to be draining but in higher revs gauge shows normal charging position. Have charged batteries and both were indicating full. Any ideas? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... It'll do that on start up,..... but once ya rev it, it should show 13/ 14 volts, even at idle,....." +"Hello Forum, + +I have had many boats over the years but recently bout a small fishing boat with my first ever outboard. It an approximately 22 year old Yamaha 25 hp long shaft (oil injected). It looks well taken care of and starts on the first/second pull every time. + +I took the boat out for the first time a couple of days ago and the motor ran great. After the outing i flushed it with clean water about 5-10 minutes. killed the nmotor and depressurized the fuel tank. + +The next day I noticed a dark spot under the motor. It appears that all of the gas in the carbs drained out and ran down the low end. + +Should I have disconnected the fuel lines and ran the motor dry. I have read that that is a bad thing for injected motors. Am I storing this outboard wrong? Any advice is appreciated. I have already looked in the Yamaha owners manual...no info there... + +Scott",Try disconnecting the tank even if you depressurized it if you closed the valve and it was warm it just re-pressurized. You do not need to run the carbs dry. If you tipped it up at all the gas ran out of the carb you may not have seen it right away,Try disconnecting the tank even if you depressurized it if you closed the valve and it was warm it just re-pressurized. You do not need to run the carbs dry. If you tipped it up at all the gas ran out of the carb you may not have seen it right away,I would definitely use 3M 5200 on this fitting. Not only will it seal permanently it will not allow the fitting to turn after it hardens. Make sure your fitting has to be attached with screws also not just a backing nut. +"Hello Forum, + +I have had many boats over the years but recently bout a small fishing boat with my first ever outboard. It an approximately 22 year old Yamaha 25 hp long shaft (oil injected). It looks well taken care of and starts on the first/second pull every time. + +I took the boat out for the first time a couple of days ago and the motor ran great. After the outing i flushed it with clean water about 5-10 minutes. killed the nmotor and depressurized the fuel tank. + +The next day I noticed a dark spot under the motor. It appears that all of the gas in the carbs drained out and ran down the low end. + +Should I have disconnected the fuel lines and ran the motor dry. I have read that that is a bad thing for injected motors. Am I storing this outboard wrong? Any advice is appreciated. I have already looked in the Yamaha owners manual...no info there... + +Scott","flyingscott said: + + + + Try disconnecting the tank even if you depressurized it if you closed the valve and it was warm it just re-pressurized. You do not need to run the carbs dry. If you tipped it up at all the gas ran out of the carb you may not have seen it right away + +Click to expand... + + + +Gotcha...thanks for the advice...it was a warm day...I'll disconnect...THANKS!","flyingscott said: + + + + Try disconnecting the tank even if you depressurized it if you closed the valve and it was warm it just re-pressurized. You do not need to run the carbs dry. If you tipped it up at all the gas ran out of the carb you may not have seen it right away + +Click to expand... + + + +Gotcha...thanks for the advice...it was a warm day...I'll disconnect...THANKS!","Hi raczekp1, the motor has a couple of bimetal things that are used for starting, but it doesn't have a thermostat that's used when the engine is a temp. When I put an infrared gun on the block it shows about 175 degF when run under load." +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","Nothing? I was hoping someone would lend a hand that may have experienced the same problem. + +I called a couple of shops and they basically won't help a DIY'er, they'd rather do the work and get the billing.","Nothing? I was hoping someone would lend a hand that may have experienced the same problem. + +I called a couple of shops and they basically won't help a DIY'er, they'd rather do the work and get the billing.",i understand all of that ....but yet nobody has been able to answer any of my questions...... +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","When testing, are you spinning the pump the right way? Is it possible that when testing with it apart, you opened up a port, or valve that left the pump airbound? Is it the right impeller, it should fit pretty snug in the housing at rest.","When testing, are you spinning the pump the right way? Is it possible that when testing with it apart, you opened up a port, or valve that left the pump airbound? Is it the right impeller, it should fit pretty snug in the housing at rest.",The nuts come off and the tube slides out. Very simple. +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","Thanks for the reply, + +There's only five components to the pump on that lower unit, the impeller, impeller housing, housing insert,stainless plate and gasket are all brand new. As I mentioned in my original post, it was pumping on my first try and then stopped after a couple of minutes. + +What has me stumped is when I just test just the lower unit alone in a tub with a drill on the drive shaft, it doesn't shoot water out the top of the housing. + +Should it pump water when the lower unit is separated from the upper?","Thanks for the reply, + +There's only five components to the pump on that lower unit, the impeller, impeller housing, housing insert,stainless plate and gasket are all brand new. As I mentioned in my original post, it was pumping on my first try and then stopped after a couple of minutes. + +What has me stumped is when I just test just the lower unit alone in a tub with a drill on the drive shaft, it doesn't shoot water out the top of the housing. + +Should it pump water when the lower unit is separated from the upper?","Brand or at least a picture would help....so may the vintage as well as what is on the other end. + +If a combined (throttle and gear selector) type, it could be the ""throttle only"" release button you are describing. used to advance the throttle, especially during starting, while disengaging the gear selector function." +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","Quick question, have you tried taking the thermostat out and seeing if it works then? also when you replaced the impeller did you make sure all the broken pieces (if any) were accounted for? I know I had to use needlenose pliers and a piece of wire to get all the broken pieces from the tube. Some engines have a screen where the water pick up is..you can remove it to ensure the passage to the impeller is clear. Good luck!","Quick question, have you tried taking the thermostat out and seeing if it works then? also when you replaced the impeller did you make sure all the broken pieces (if any) were accounted for? I know I had to use needlenose pliers and a piece of wire to get all the broken pieces from the tube. Some engines have a screen where the water pick up is..you can remove it to ensure the passage to the impeller is clear. Good luck!","The fuel guage should have four wires S is sending unit I is ignition switch (same hot for tach) depending on guage you have ground to light and power to light from navigation light switch. I believe the purple wire is hot from the ignition switch to tach just use it for hot to fuel tank. Your accy switch should power up the accys move the pigtail to the switched side to the other switches. Does your engine have a overheat warning horn? There should be a switch on or around the spark plugs with one wire coming out. Turn the ignition on and short the wire going to the switch to ground the horn should sound. It shouldnt take much and yes replacing all those old switches will eliminate that factor as well and if in doubt fuse it! +http://www.ebay.com/itm/TELEFLEX-HU...ash=item2c5a445c58:g:~jEAAMXQySpRW8wZ&vxp=mtr" +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","Skimmons said: + + + + Quick question, have you tried taking the thermostat out and seeing if it works then? also when you replaced the impeller did you make sure all the broken pieces (if any) were accounted for? I know I had to use needlenose pliers and a piece of wire to get all the broken pieces from the tube. Some engines have a screen where the water pick up is..you can remove it to ensure the passage to the impeller is clear. Good luck! + +Click to expand... + + + +I did try running it with out the t-stat and had the same results- no water pumping and when I took the head cover off to replace the stat the water passages were dry (and hot!) + +My problem must be the pump but with the new kit installed and the fact that it did pump for a few minutes, I'm at a loss. I guess the last resort is to buy another impeller/pump kit and try that. I keep thinking it must be something obvious and simple that I'm over looking but after taking it apart and reassembling it a half a dozen times it's really not that complicated.","Skimmons said: + + + + Quick question, have you tried taking the thermostat out and seeing if it works then? also when you replaced the impeller did you make sure all the broken pieces (if any) were accounted for? I know I had to use needlenose pliers and a piece of wire to get all the broken pieces from the tube. Some engines have a screen where the water pick up is..you can remove it to ensure the passage to the impeller is clear. Good luck! + +Click to expand... + + + +I did try running it with out the t-stat and had the same results- no water pumping and when I took the head cover off to replace the stat the water passages were dry (and hot!) + +My problem must be the pump but with the new kit installed and the fact that it did pump for a few minutes, I'm at a loss. I guess the last resort is to buy another impeller/pump kit and try that. I keep thinking it must be something obvious and simple that I'm over looking but after taking it apart and reassembling it a half a dozen times it's really not that complicated.","boscoe said: + + + + 3 ~ 5 psi normally. Not to exceed 7 psi. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for the fast response. Greatly appreciated" +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!",I wouldn't buy another pump kit just yet so long as you are sure it was the right size. When you installed it are you CERTAIN the veins on the impeller were ALL twisted in the right direction? These impellers fit TIGHT and when inserting them you need to twist them in the right direction when setting them in that housing. Put them in the wrong way or have a few veins on the impeller that didn't twist the right way and they won't pump. The thermostat up top only opens and closes with temperature but it needs water pressure and hot water around it for it to open. It will only be surrounded with water provided by the pump if it is working and pushing water up to everything. The tell tail pee hole will spit water regardless of the thermostat being open or closed... it starts spitting as soon as the engine is fired and the water pump builds pressure that pushes water up to the block. Make sure your fins on the impeller are bent the right direction. If you got 4 of 6 in the right direction and the last 2 are wrong.. no pressure. I also know that when an impeller goes the fragments of rubber can work their way up into the engine and block vital water pasages but that doesn't seem to be your problem as you can't get flow from the lower unit being turned by a drill driver. Your problem seems to be in the lower unit. Take it apart and check for scraps from the old unit that could be hiding down here and MAKE SURE all veins on the impeller are properly seated.,I wouldn't buy another pump kit just yet so long as you are sure it was the right size. When you installed it are you CERTAIN the veins on the impeller were ALL twisted in the right direction? These impellers fit TIGHT and when inserting them you need to twist them in the right direction when setting them in that housing. Put them in the wrong way or have a few veins on the impeller that didn't twist the right way and they won't pump. The thermostat up top only opens and closes with temperature but it needs water pressure and hot water around it for it to open. It will only be surrounded with water provided by the pump if it is working and pushing water up to everything. The tell tail pee hole will spit water regardless of the thermostat being open or closed... it starts spitting as soon as the engine is fired and the water pump builds pressure that pushes water up to the block. Make sure your fins on the impeller are bent the right direction. If you got 4 of 6 in the right direction and the last 2 are wrong.. no pressure. I also know that when an impeller goes the fragments of rubber can work their way up into the engine and block vital water pasages but that doesn't seem to be your problem as you can't get flow from the lower unit being turned by a drill driver. Your problem seems to be in the lower unit. Take it apart and check for scraps from the old unit that could be hiding down here and MAKE SURE all veins on the impeller are properly seated.,Overheating ???----Inspected the water pump ? +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","How much water was in your test bucket / tank ?-----Was the water 6"" above the pump ?","How much water was in your test bucket / tank ?-----Was the water 6"" above the pump ?","Ayuh,.... You can go from a standard Merc controller, to custom off-shore controllers, with prices to match,... + +Yer Choice,.... They're all pretty much standard, interchangeable,... + +'n,... ya, I'd go for fresh cables too,..." +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","deepsea21 said: + + + + I wouldn't buy another pump kit just yet so long as you are sure it was the right size. When you installed it are you CERTAIN the veins on the impeller were ALL twisted in the right direction? These impellers fit TIGHT and when inserting them you need to twist them in the right direction when setting them in that housing. Put them in the wrong way or have a few veins on the impeller that didn't twist the right way and they won't pump. The thermostat up top only opens and closes with temperature but it needs water pressure and hot water around it for it to open. It will only be surrounded with water provided by the pump if it is working and pushing water up to everything. The tell tail pee hole will spit water regardless of the thermostat being open or closed... it starts spitting as soon as the engine is fired and the water pump builds pressure that pushes water up to the block. Make sure your fins on the impeller are bent the right direction. If you got 4 of 6 in the right direction and the last 2 are wrong.. no pressure. I also know that when an impeller goes the fragments of rubber can work their way up into the engine and block vital water pasages but that doesn't seem to be your problem as you can't get flow from the lower unit being turned by a drill driver. Your problem seems to be in the lower unit. Take it apart and check for scraps from the old unit that could be hiding down here and MAKE SURE all veins on the impeller are properly seated. + +Click to expand... + + +When I reassemble the pump I make sure to turn the shaft clockwise as I'm setting the housing down onto the impeller to ensure all the veins are pointing in the same correct direction. Also when the impeller and bottom plate and gasket are off I can see clear through the water passage to the pick up holes so I know that's clear as well. + +Just for S & G's last night I adapted a section of garden hose to the water tube on the upper unit and water flowed well out the tell tail pee hole so that eliminated the upper unit as part of the problem. + +When I'm testing the lower unit with the cordless, I'm spinning the shaft clockwise and have the lower unit submerged in water so that it's just covering the cavitation plate and the pick ups are completely under water. Is for some reason that not far enough?","deepsea21 said: + + + + I wouldn't buy another pump kit just yet so long as you are sure it was the right size. When you installed it are you CERTAIN the veins on the impeller were ALL twisted in the right direction? These impellers fit TIGHT and when inserting them you need to twist them in the right direction when setting them in that housing. Put them in the wrong way or have a few veins on the impeller that didn't twist the right way and they won't pump. The thermostat up top only opens and closes with temperature but it needs water pressure and hot water around it for it to open. It will only be surrounded with water provided by the pump if it is working and pushing water up to everything. The tell tail pee hole will spit water regardless of the thermostat being open or closed... it starts spitting as soon as the engine is fired and the water pump builds pressure that pushes water up to the block. Make sure your fins on the impeller are bent the right direction. If you got 4 of 6 in the right direction and the last 2 are wrong.. no pressure. I also know that when an impeller goes the fragments of rubber can work their way up into the engine and block vital water pasages but that doesn't seem to be your problem as you can't get flow from the lower unit being turned by a drill driver. Your problem seems to be in the lower unit. Take it apart and check for scraps from the old unit that could be hiding down here and MAKE SURE all veins on the impeller are properly seated. + +Click to expand... + + +When I reassemble the pump I make sure to turn the shaft clockwise as I'm setting the housing down onto the impeller to ensure all the veins are pointing in the same correct direction. Also when the impeller and bottom plate and gasket are off I can see clear through the water passage to the pick up holes so I know that's clear as well. + +Just for S & G's last night I adapted a section of garden hose to the water tube on the upper unit and water flowed well out the tell tail pee hole so that eliminated the upper unit as part of the problem. + +When I'm testing the lower unit with the cordless, I'm spinning the shaft clockwise and have the lower unit submerged in water so that it's just covering the cavitation plate and the pick ups are completely under water. Is for some reason that not far enough?",check battery connections and make sure battery is fully charged... +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","racerone said: + + + + How much water was in your test bucket / tank ?-----Was the water 6"" above the pump ? + +Click to expand... + + + +The water was just over the cavitation plate/fin above the water inlet. That would make it actually below the level of the pump. Does the water have to be above the level of the pump in order to work? + +Does this theory sound correct? + +When I tried it after the rebuild the first time it did pump for a couple of minutes but I may have lost enough water out of the trash can from the pisser and splashing etc that the water level then went below the pump and that's why it stopped pumping up and coming out of the tell tail piss hole. + +I'll put the lower unit back on tonight and try it again with the water level well above the pump. + +We're making progress guys, thanks for the tips and help. I appreciate it","racerone said: + + + + How much water was in your test bucket / tank ?-----Was the water 6"" above the pump ? + +Click to expand... + + + +The water was just over the cavitation plate/fin above the water inlet. That would make it actually below the level of the pump. Does the water have to be above the level of the pump in order to work? + +Does this theory sound correct? + +When I tried it after the rebuild the first time it did pump for a couple of minutes but I may have lost enough water out of the trash can from the pisser and splashing etc that the water level then went below the pump and that's why it stopped pumping up and coming out of the tell tail piss hole. + +I'll put the lower unit back on tonight and try it again with the water level well above the pump. + +We're making progress guys, thanks for the tips and help. I appreciate it",\\yes +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!",Sink the lower unit as deep as it normally would be in the water on the boat and try it. These pumps are not self priming... they have to be under water to pump or need earmuffs hooked up to a garden hose that forces water under pressure through the inlets and up to the pump. The cavitation place should be fully submerged at rest for the pump to work.,Sink the lower unit as deep as it normally would be in the water on the boat and try it. These pumps are not self priming... they have to be under water to pump or need earmuffs hooked up to a garden hose that forces water under pressure through the inlets and up to the pump. The cavitation place should be fully submerged at rest for the pump to work.,"Good luck with the motor.----Model # is ""----Or bring it over for an evaluation" +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","Success!! + +I reattached the lower unit and this time submerged it in the test tub well above the level of the pump and Viola! , it pumped beautifully and works like a charm. I was hoping that my issue was something simple and obvious. + +Thanks so much to all for your help, i","Success!! + +I reattached the lower unit and this time submerged it in the test tub well above the level of the pump and Viola! , it pumped beautifully and works like a charm. I was hoping that my issue was something simple and obvious. + +Thanks so much to all for your help, i","boscoe said: + + + + What about the voltage output? + +Click to expand... + + from pulsar coil? would I test that with engine running, probing wires while still connected to.cdi?" +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","You're welcome and our Silver Level contributor RACERONE deserves the credit as he suggested the same thing I did later on. We are all happy that you are on your way and the problem is fixed. Do send RACERONE a thanks. He called it before I did. Then, go have some fun!","You're welcome and our Silver Level contributor RACERONE deserves the credit as he suggested the same thing I did later on. We are all happy that you are on your way and the problem is fixed. Do send RACERONE a thanks. He called it before I did. Then, go have some fun!","there are two chambers in the carb +the chamber where the float is and then on the top of the carb anther cavitity. covered by a plate and rubber washer +if i take off the plate and washer should i see gas?" +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","racerone said: + + + + How much water was in your test bucket / tank ?-----Was the water 6"" above the pump ? + +Click to expand... + + +Dead on!! + +The water level wasn't high enough to allow the pump to prime. I increased the level and all is well. + +Good call and thanks for your help!","racerone said: + + + + How much water was in your test bucket / tank ?-----Was the water 6"" above the pump ? + +Click to expand... + + +Dead on!! + +The water level wasn't high enough to allow the pump to prime. I increased the level and all is well. + +Good call and thanks for your help!","That's something I can't seem to figure out. It was my great grandpas boat that he bought in 97, well about 4-5 years later +he gave it to my uncle, and had it til this year when I got it from him. He told me when he got it from my great grandpa the gauges had already stopped working. All I took was a red wire, touched the fuel gauge purple wire, and touched it to the positive side of the Battery and all the gauges worked. Everyone of them, even the tach. The wire sent a weak signal since it was just 18 gauge wire.. As soon as I got on plane the tach went down to 0. It was working great in idle" +"I picked up a 99 8hp 2stroke recently and got it running and starting fine but I'm having a problem with water not pumping. After replacing the t-stat and a new pump kit it started pumping right away and that lasted for a couple of minutes before it went down to dribble then stopped and was just pumping hot air/steam out the telltail hole. I thought it may be a blockage from calcium deposits so I tore everything apart and made sure all passages were clear and water could flow through. + +Just for kicks I took the lower unit with a cordless on the shaft and submerged that in a tub of water and when I spin the shaft no water is pumped out the top of the impeller housing. Took that apart again and all the new parts are intact and in good shape. The impeller is located on the woodruff key as it should and spins with the shaft properly. Also the passage for the water to go up from the pick ups on the lower unit to the pump are clear and clean. + +I'm stumped and can't figure this sucker out. + +Please help!!","tschanne said: + + + + Dead on!! + +The water level wasn't high enough to allow the pump to prime. I increased the level and all is well. + +Good call and thanks for your help! + +Click to expand... + + +thank god I came across this forum I was having same problem but this was the answer for me also. amazing what 2 more inches of water can do.","tschanne said: + + + + Dead on!! + +The water level wasn't high enough to allow the pump to prime. I increased the level and all is well. + +Good call and thanks for your help! + +Click to expand... + + +thank god I came across this forum I was having same problem but this was the answer for me also. amazing what 2 more inches of water can do.",Atwood bulbs are awful but should work initially anyway. like the first response said when pumping it hold the arrow straight up to the sky. i just learned that recently. +My 98 75hp Yamaha trims extremely slow...any ideas?,"If the motor sounds weak, it could be bad relays, motor, or bad connections on wiring that just need a wire brushes attention. + +If motor sounds good, could be a leak in seal, low fluid, water in fluid, or air in system. + +Slow up and down?","If the motor sounds weak, it could be bad relays, motor, or bad connections on wiring that just need a wire brushes attention. + +If motor sounds good, could be a leak in seal, low fluid, water in fluid, or air in system. + +Slow up and down?","Update + +I pulled the intake manifold and then cleaned out the vapor separator and replace the filter in the separator and also in the water separator. I also replaced the spark plugs and replaced the gas hose between the tank outlet and the 'T' where the fuel line splits for both motors. It took quite a while to get this done (not much spare time) and I also cleaned out the jets of the 9.9hp motor's carb. Last Sunday we had a warm day, so I pulled it out into the driveway and tested the motors. After I squeezed the gas bulb for the 115 what felt like a hundred times, and finally the VST was filled. I turned the key on and off a couple of times, and then the 115 started instantly and idled. However when I put it in gear and revved it up, it got rough and sometimes died when I returned to idle. I pulled one fuel injector lead at a time and I had 3 that were relatively equal and had very little effect when I pulled a connector. When I pulled #4 fuel injector lead, the motor almost died. #4 was way stronger than the others, so it appeared that I had 3 partially clogged injectors. Mills, you were right, fuel injectors are cheap on Ebay, so I purchased 4 and installed them. I haven't test run it yet. I've also replaced the trim angle rheostat so now Mark can see how his boat is trimmed without turning his head around. I'm not sure that I'd spend the $160 for the new rheostat or not, but he wanted it working. I can't bring the motor all the way down because it hits the roller on the trailer, so I'll have to fine tune this when I get it in the water or rig up a way to slide the boat back on the trailer. + +When I went to start the 9.9 there was a fuel leak out of the bottom of the carb from what looks like an accelerator pump. I've got a new diaphram ordered. + +With all the rain we've had, the lakes are almost all the way back up to normal pool, so in the next couple of weeks I should get to test it properly." +My 98 75hp Yamaha trims extremely slow...any ideas?,"jerrid said: + + + + If the motor sounds weak, it could be bad relays, motor, or bad connections on wiring that just need a wire brushes attention. + +If motor sounds good, could be a leak in seal, low fluid, water in fluid, or air in system. + +Slow up and down? + +Click to expand... + + +Motor sounds good....goes up just fine...comes down good until it gets to the trim at which point it goes very very slow","jerrid said: + + + + If the motor sounds weak, it could be bad relays, motor, or bad connections on wiring that just need a wire brushes attention. + +If motor sounds good, could be a leak in seal, low fluid, water in fluid, or air in system. + +Slow up and down? + +Click to expand... + + +Motor sounds good....goes up just fine...comes down good until it gets to the trim at which point it goes very very slow","Hey, PAL, + +Thought I would add a little chart showing battery charge state. + + + + + + + +As you can see, 12 VDC output of a ""fully charged battery"" is low, actually less than 50% charged......." +My 98 75hp Yamaha trims extremely slow...any ideas?,"Donaldjohn said: + + + + Motor sounds good....goes up just fine...comes down good until it gets to the trim at which point it goes very very slow + +Click to expand... + +Try bringing your motor all the way up, lock it, loosen the manual release screw, manually lower and raise your motor a few times, then tighten screw back up with motor up.","Donaldjohn said: + + + + Motor sounds good....goes up just fine...comes down good until it gets to the trim at which point it goes very very slow + +Click to expand... + +Try bringing your motor all the way up, lock it, loosen the manual release screw, manually lower and raise your motor a few times, then tighten screw back up with motor up.","RRConboy said: + + + +Do anodes actual eat away like a block of salt, or do they get ""used up"" but still appear to be okay? I have a 1991 Evinrude 60 HP. Bought used. Runs fine. Wondering if anodes need changed. Look good, but...have they ever been changed? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... That is correct,...... They disappear,....." +My 98 75hp Yamaha trims extremely slow...any ideas?,Thanks....I'll give it a try,Thanks....I'll give it a try,"faztbullet said: + + + + When it acts up pull the plugs and inspect them for moisture especially the lower 2 cylinders. + +Click to expand... + + + +^^^^^^^^^2nd that having lost a 1996 115 SS last year doing the same thing, but mine took it a little further and would lock down and shut off. Wait for it to cool off a few minutes and it would run all day, or at least 8 miles which is how far I had to idle to get back to dock. Good Luck and apparently those motors had a corrosion issue with lower seal or something like that." +"Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum and I hope I'm doing this correct. I have a 1994 Pro V 150. I need some help with loss of power out of the hole. I noticed some minor surging at top speed of 54 mph. The engine started cutting in and out and losing about 5 mph and then going back up. the boat sat for about a month and when I took it back out it lost power and went down to only 20 mph. Wen I tried to stop it and gunned it from a stand still it was very sluggish and wouldn't get up to speed. Took it out of the water took the carbs off and rebuilt them. Put it back in and it ran good for about two hours and then same thing all over. Thought it maybe coils. Tried testing them ( ohms test and the old pull plug wire off engine ). Couldn't really see any difference. Bought one new coil and swapped each one out at a time and no luck. Can anyone give me some suggestions what to look for next? + +Regards, Toni",I would do a compression check just to rule that out. When you rebuilt the carbs did you clean them spotless and blow all the jets out with good compressed air? I have seen a set of Yamaha carbs 'rebuilt' times before they were rebuilt enough to fix the problem.,I would do a compression check just to rule that out. When you rebuilt the carbs did you clean them spotless and blow all the jets out with good compressed air? I have seen a set of Yamaha carbs 'rebuilt' times before they were rebuilt enough to fix the problem.,"After experiencing their four strokes I have gone off Yamaha as a brand, but we have had 6 of those SWS2 engines at the 200hp, 175hp and 150hp ratings in a self drive hire fleet and they are about as good as it gets for ease of maintenance and reliability. +One thing when cold starting them is to make sure that the choke operates when you push the key in when in the ON position. You will hear the click from the engine. They need that choke for the first cold start each day, but after that should start perfectly all day without the choke. The other thing that they all seem to like at a cold start is a bit of throttle, so lift the fast idle lever until you have maybe 1/4 to 1/3 throttle for a cold start. Once you get the technique sorted they are usually very good starting engines, but if you don't use teh choke properly they can be frustrating when cold." +"Hello, + +I just purchased a boat with a Yamaha C40PLRU (1996) an it seems to be running pretty well. The only issue I notice is that the Tilt doesn't seem to want to trim up while the engine is under load. I.e. When I get the boat out of the hole and up on plane under full throttle, the hydraulic tilt is seemingly unable to lift the motor to trim for a better top speed. + +The tilt seems to work pretty well otherwise. + +Any suggestions would be helpful. + +Thank you.","Discovered an answer on another site.. answering myself because it may help somebody else answer this question. + +This motor is ""tilt only"" and doesn't have a tilt piston with enough power to 'trim' the engine. You would need a ""Tilt and Trim"" model for this to work. + +Has anyone ever successfully retrofitted a ""tilt and Trim unit"" from the C40TLRU engine onto a C40PLRU? + +Thanks!","Discovered an answer on another site.. answering myself because it may help somebody else answer this question. + +This motor is ""tilt only"" and doesn't have a tilt piston with enough power to 'trim' the engine. You would need a ""Tilt and Trim"" model for this to work. + +Has anyone ever successfully retrofitted a ""tilt and Trim unit"" from the C40TLRU engine onto a C40PLRU? + +Thanks!","travis0332 said: + + + + Mark thank you for the response. I found out about this mod while coming across a thread of sailboat owners who use these extensions. Some of the owners have to use them even on a standard launch ramp because their boats sit so high off the trailer, and have to back in very deep into lake to launch. Hope I can get this to work as I'd feel much safer if my back tires didn't even have to touch the water + +Click to expand... + +QUOTE=travis0332;722165]Mark thank you for the response. I found out about this mod while coming across a thread of sailboat owners who use these extensions. Some of the owners have to use them even on a standard launch ramp because their boats sit so high off the trailer, and have to back in very deep into lake to launch. Hope I can get this to work as I'd feel much safer if my back tires didn't even have to touch the water[/QUOTE] + Hello Travis - I have a similar situation when launching or loading my pontoon boat, by the time I get it backed down the ramp far enough (so it is ""afloat"") my tow vehicle rear tires are in below the water line, further than I would prefer.. I am considering extending the trailer tongue three feet or so by adding a section of tubing to it.. Am wondering if you had any luck on the the modifications you were considering ? I did post something on this site a couple of days after your item first appeared, but no responses so far.. I would appreciate any input or ideas you might have on this, Thank You" +"Hello + +I have a Yamaha outboard, F80 model year 2002. The actual type and serial is F80AET L 1000795 Q + +The regulator seems to be blown and sends 17V to the battery depending on revs etc. Only on very low revs, idle, do I get 13.8V. Anything over that and we see the voltage increasing up to 17+ V. + +A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery while on a short trip trying to save the battery from abuse. Bad idea as I did not have engine trim and the engine instruments were showing rubbish. When I reconnected the battery, it miraculously started working again at a stable 13.8V or thereabouts, regardless of revs. + +I was told that rusty connectors do that, and I thought my action of removing the terminal and reinserting it did the trick. In addition I later filed, cleaned and polished the terminals and the battery is also brand new. + +5 weeks later and daily use of the boat, I was telling a friend the story, how I fixed the overvoltage problem with cleaning the terminals, and as I revved the engine to show him, I saw 15+ Volts. + +We measured the voltage on the engine and the problem seems to be the regulator. As it is hard to find a replacement in short notice, it is not a piece stores stock, and it is holidays now here in Greece, is there a trick I can do to preserve the battery? + +Each battery pole has two leads to it, a thick and a thinner one. The thick lead I presume drives the starter motor. But does it also charge the battery? Then once started I could remove just the thick lead. + +Any suggestions welcome.","No 'trick' except replacing the regulator.... + +FWIW, it is ALWAYS a bad idea to disconnect any major connection with the engine running, especially a main battery connection. + +As far as how the battery is wired, best to check your manual.....sometimes the installers will make adjustments so its hard to say without actually being there to see it.","No 'trick' except replacing the regulator.... + +FWIW, it is ALWAYS a bad idea to disconnect any major connection with the engine running, especially a main battery connection. + +As far as how the battery is wired, best to check your manual.....sometimes the installers will make adjustments so its hard to say without actually being there to see it.","This is a common problem with a motor running to high as the blades ""slap"" the water and crack. Also bad casting will do this. The over hub props are really bad about this, as I went thru 3 Triton props $600 ea before I got a good one. I now have any HP prop x-rayed" +"Hello + +I have a Yamaha outboard, F80 model year 2002. The actual type and serial is F80AET L 1000795 Q + +The regulator seems to be blown and sends 17V to the battery depending on revs etc. Only on very low revs, idle, do I get 13.8V. Anything over that and we see the voltage increasing up to 17+ V. + +A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery while on a short trip trying to save the battery from abuse. Bad idea as I did not have engine trim and the engine instruments were showing rubbish. When I reconnected the battery, it miraculously started working again at a stable 13.8V or thereabouts, regardless of revs. + +I was told that rusty connectors do that, and I thought my action of removing the terminal and reinserting it did the trick. In addition I later filed, cleaned and polished the terminals and the battery is also brand new. + +5 weeks later and daily use of the boat, I was telling a friend the story, how I fixed the overvoltage problem with cleaning the terminals, and as I revved the engine to show him, I saw 15+ Volts. + +We measured the voltage on the engine and the problem seems to be the regulator. As it is hard to find a replacement in short notice, it is not a piece stores stock, and it is holidays now here in Greece, is there a trick I can do to preserve the battery? + +Each battery pole has two leads to it, a thick and a thinner one. The thick lead I presume drives the starter motor. But does it also charge the battery? Then once started I could remove just the thick lead. + +Any suggestions welcome.","Hello + +One thing to note is that while on many cars, in my experience, when the regulator blows it stops supplying the rest of the car, and you are running on the battery for a while, until the battery dies too. So you can drive your car for a while and nothing major happens to the car and typically you take care not to switch too many things on to preserve the battery. This is all so common. + +But on this Yamaha engine, the regulator has gone in a destructive way allowing large voltages through, and while I was worried about the battery alone, thinking will it take this increased voltage, I did not think that the engine itself might also have a problem with 18V. Because I had mistakenly thought that noone would built an engine that will self destruct. But it did have a problem it seems, yesterday it stopped working, and now we think it is also the CDI unit that has also blown on account of these large voltages. + +Quite upset now as there are a few more days of holiday left the weather is the best ever and I have no boat. Not happy with Yamaha.","Hello + +One thing to note is that while on many cars, in my experience, when the regulator blows it stops supplying the rest of the car, and you are running on the battery for a while, until the battery dies too. So you can drive your car for a while and nothing major happens to the car and typically you take care not to switch too many things on to preserve the battery. This is all so common. + +But on this Yamaha engine, the regulator has gone in a destructive way allowing large voltages through, and while I was worried about the battery alone, thinking will it take this increased voltage, I did not think that the engine itself might also have a problem with 18V. Because I had mistakenly thought that noone would built an engine that will self destruct. But it did have a problem it seems, yesterday it stopped working, and now we think it is also the CDI unit that has also blown on account of these large voltages. + +Quite upset now as there are a few more days of holiday left the weather is the best ever and I have no boat. Not happy with Yamaha.","Brian, +Do you think anyone interested in buying a used D3L? Possibly for the parts; everything in working order except the blower motor. Not sure it's worth the trouble to post on eBay. + +Myles" +"Hello + +I have a Yamaha outboard, F80 model year 2002. The actual type and serial is F80AET L 1000795 Q + +The regulator seems to be blown and sends 17V to the battery depending on revs etc. Only on very low revs, idle, do I get 13.8V. Anything over that and we see the voltage increasing up to 17+ V. + +A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery while on a short trip trying to save the battery from abuse. Bad idea as I did not have engine trim and the engine instruments were showing rubbish. When I reconnected the battery, it miraculously started working again at a stable 13.8V or thereabouts, regardless of revs. + +I was told that rusty connectors do that, and I thought my action of removing the terminal and reinserting it did the trick. In addition I later filed, cleaned and polished the terminals and the battery is also brand new. + +5 weeks later and daily use of the boat, I was telling a friend the story, how I fixed the overvoltage problem with cleaning the terminals, and as I revved the engine to show him, I saw 15+ Volts. + +We measured the voltage on the engine and the problem seems to be the regulator. As it is hard to find a replacement in short notice, it is not a piece stores stock, and it is holidays now here in Greece, is there a trick I can do to preserve the battery? + +Each battery pole has two leads to it, a thick and a thinner one. The thick lead I presume drives the starter motor. But does it also charge the battery? Then once started I could remove just the thick lead. + +Any suggestions welcome.",The cdi probably went as a result of disconnecting the battery while running..That is a no-no on any outboard engine...the cdi may not be blown though...have you checked to see if you have voltage to it..you may have a blown fuse..,The cdi probably went as a result of disconnecting the battery while running..That is a no-no on any outboard engine...the cdi may not be blown though...have you checked to see if you have voltage to it..you may have a blown fuse..,"Appreciate the reply. After getting no replies for over a week I went ahead and mounted the transducer with 5200 then went on vacation till now, so I just now saw your reply. I haven't used the boat since returning so do not know if the transducer will signal thru the 5200. Have carb apart today so it will be Monday before I know. +Thanks again for the reply" +"Hello + +I have a Yamaha outboard, F80 model year 2002. The actual type and serial is F80AET L 1000795 Q + +The regulator seems to be blown and sends 17V to the battery depending on revs etc. Only on very low revs, idle, do I get 13.8V. Anything over that and we see the voltage increasing up to 17+ V. + +A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery while on a short trip trying to save the battery from abuse. Bad idea as I did not have engine trim and the engine instruments were showing rubbish. When I reconnected the battery, it miraculously started working again at a stable 13.8V or thereabouts, regardless of revs. + +I was told that rusty connectors do that, and I thought my action of removing the terminal and reinserting it did the trick. In addition I later filed, cleaned and polished the terminals and the battery is also brand new. + +5 weeks later and daily use of the boat, I was telling a friend the story, how I fixed the overvoltage problem with cleaning the terminals, and as I revved the engine to show him, I saw 15+ Volts. + +We measured the voltage on the engine and the problem seems to be the regulator. As it is hard to find a replacement in short notice, it is not a piece stores stock, and it is holidays now here in Greece, is there a trick I can do to preserve the battery? + +Each battery pole has two leads to it, a thick and a thinner one. The thick lead I presume drives the starter motor. But does it also charge the battery? Then once started I could remove just the thick lead. + +Any suggestions welcome.","I have checked all the wires I could, there were only two fuses present, a 30A and a 20A, and they are OK. I doubt the CDI draws 20A or 30A anyway. I could not see any other fuses anywhere. Is there an easy way to determine whether the CDI is working, off board?","I have checked all the wires I could, there were only two fuses present, a 30A and a 20A, and they are OK. I doubt the CDI draws 20A or 30A anyway. I could not see any other fuses anywhere. Is there an easy way to determine whether the CDI is working, off board?","boscoe said: + + + + What model HPDI? + +Click to expand... + + +200HP Yamaha Z200TXRA" +"Hello + +I have a Yamaha outboard, F80 model year 2002. The actual type and serial is F80AET L 1000795 Q + +The regulator seems to be blown and sends 17V to the battery depending on revs etc. Only on very low revs, idle, do I get 13.8V. Anything over that and we see the voltage increasing up to 17+ V. + +A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery while on a short trip trying to save the battery from abuse. Bad idea as I did not have engine trim and the engine instruments were showing rubbish. When I reconnected the battery, it miraculously started working again at a stable 13.8V or thereabouts, regardless of revs. + +I was told that rusty connectors do that, and I thought my action of removing the terminal and reinserting it did the trick. In addition I later filed, cleaned and polished the terminals and the battery is also brand new. + +5 weeks later and daily use of the boat, I was telling a friend the story, how I fixed the overvoltage problem with cleaning the terminals, and as I revved the engine to show him, I saw 15+ Volts. + +We measured the voltage on the engine and the problem seems to be the regulator. As it is hard to find a replacement in short notice, it is not a piece stores stock, and it is holidays now here in Greece, is there a trick I can do to preserve the battery? + +Each battery pole has two leads to it, a thick and a thinner one. The thick lead I presume drives the starter motor. But does it also charge the battery? Then once started I could remove just the thick lead. + +Any suggestions welcome.",have you checked spark with a gap tester?,have you checked spark with a gap tester?,"IF and thats a big IF, the oil pump went out completely on the motor I would expect much more damage than just one cyl. They are not known for failures as they are an excellent injection system. And the way they work each cylinder would have had to run without oil. I would look at the carb you are going to want to find the problem before putting money into it." +"Hello + +I have a Yamaha outboard, F80 model year 2002. The actual type and serial is F80AET L 1000795 Q + +The regulator seems to be blown and sends 17V to the battery depending on revs etc. Only on very low revs, idle, do I get 13.8V. Anything over that and we see the voltage increasing up to 17+ V. + +A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery while on a short trip trying to save the battery from abuse. Bad idea as I did not have engine trim and the engine instruments were showing rubbish. When I reconnected the battery, it miraculously started working again at a stable 13.8V or thereabouts, regardless of revs. + +I was told that rusty connectors do that, and I thought my action of removing the terminal and reinserting it did the trick. In addition I later filed, cleaned and polished the terminals and the battery is also brand new. + +5 weeks later and daily use of the boat, I was telling a friend the story, how I fixed the overvoltage problem with cleaning the terminals, and as I revved the engine to show him, I saw 15+ Volts. + +We measured the voltage on the engine and the problem seems to be the regulator. As it is hard to find a replacement in short notice, it is not a piece stores stock, and it is holidays now here in Greece, is there a trick I can do to preserve the battery? + +Each battery pole has two leads to it, a thick and a thinner one. The thick lead I presume drives the starter motor. But does it also charge the battery? Then once started I could remove just the thick lead. + +Any suggestions welcome.","Yes on 2-3 spark plugs, there was no spark. It behaves as if the quick stop is not inserted.","Yes on 2-3 spark plugs, there was no spark. It behaves as if the quick stop is not inserted.","absolutely correct on a bad battery taking out the second. best to use a battery switch. also, some electronics do not like the surge when starting, and it is best to not have them on. this can be eliminated with the battery switch." +"Hello + +I have a Yamaha outboard, F80 model year 2002. The actual type and serial is F80AET L 1000795 Q + +The regulator seems to be blown and sends 17V to the battery depending on revs etc. Only on very low revs, idle, do I get 13.8V. Anything over that and we see the voltage increasing up to 17+ V. + +A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery while on a short trip trying to save the battery from abuse. Bad idea as I did not have engine trim and the engine instruments were showing rubbish. When I reconnected the battery, it miraculously started working again at a stable 13.8V or thereabouts, regardless of revs. + +I was told that rusty connectors do that, and I thought my action of removing the terminal and reinserting it did the trick. In addition I later filed, cleaned and polished the terminals and the battery is also brand new. + +5 weeks later and daily use of the boat, I was telling a friend the story, how I fixed the overvoltage problem with cleaning the terminals, and as I revved the engine to show him, I saw 15+ Volts. + +We measured the voltage on the engine and the problem seems to be the regulator. As it is hard to find a replacement in short notice, it is not a piece stores stock, and it is holidays now here in Greece, is there a trick I can do to preserve the battery? + +Each battery pole has two leads to it, a thick and a thinner one. The thick lead I presume drives the starter motor. But does it also charge the battery? Then once started I could remove just the thick lead. + +Any suggestions welcome.",http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/practical_ouboard_ignition_troubles,http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/practical_ouboard_ignition_troubles,Most likely situation is that one of your batteries is run down or dead and the regulator is putting out max voltage to try to charge it. How old are the batteries. Marine batteries should normally be replaced every four or five years. +"Hello + +I have a Yamaha outboard, F80 model year 2002. The actual type and serial is F80AET L 1000795 Q + +The regulator seems to be blown and sends 17V to the battery depending on revs etc. Only on very low revs, idle, do I get 13.8V. Anything over that and we see the voltage increasing up to 17+ V. + +A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery while on a short trip trying to save the battery from abuse. Bad idea as I did not have engine trim and the engine instruments were showing rubbish. When I reconnected the battery, it miraculously started working again at a stable 13.8V or thereabouts, regardless of revs. + +I was told that rusty connectors do that, and I thought my action of removing the terminal and reinserting it did the trick. In addition I later filed, cleaned and polished the terminals and the battery is also brand new. + +5 weeks later and daily use of the boat, I was telling a friend the story, how I fixed the overvoltage problem with cleaning the terminals, and as I revved the engine to show him, I saw 15+ Volts. + +We measured the voltage on the engine and the problem seems to be the regulator. As it is hard to find a replacement in short notice, it is not a piece stores stock, and it is holidays now here in Greece, is there a trick I can do to preserve the battery? + +Each battery pole has two leads to it, a thick and a thinner one. The thick lead I presume drives the starter motor. But does it also charge the battery? Then once started I could remove just the thick lead. + +Any suggestions welcome.","OK so we tried to take off the flywheel - absolutely no way, to me it looks as if the nut hodling it down is fused onto the shaft, I do not think anyone has ever removed that nut since 2002 in some factory in Japan when the motor was built. Strangely I also paid a hefty sum two years ago to have the timing belt replaced, may be he replaced it without removing the flywheel... + +The next step inserted the multimeter on the connector that connects the stator to the regulator (it was three wires I hope it was that) and measured AC voltage while cranking the engine. On 2 or 3 combinations (the connector has 3 wires) it read 5-6V AC while cranking. I took that to mean that the stator is producing some voltage and has not melted. + +I also measured on the wires leading to the coils and saw no voltage so the fault must be the CDI. + +Unfortunately the CDI seems to be outrageously expensive in Greece and must be brought in from abroad (no idea where) and costs something like $1000 whereas on US web sites the part is listed at around $340. + +One problem is that the US sites do not list my type of engine, mine is a F80AET and the US sites list a slightly different designation. + +Therefore the rectifier is 67F-81960-12 and on the US sites it is 67F-81960-12-00 - this looks the same so so far so good. + +On the CDI the part is 67F-85540-01 and on the US sites it is 67F-85540-03-00 - this looks to be slighly different.","OK so we tried to take off the flywheel - absolutely no way, to me it looks as if the nut hodling it down is fused onto the shaft, I do not think anyone has ever removed that nut since 2002 in some factory in Japan when the motor was built. Strangely I also paid a hefty sum two years ago to have the timing belt replaced, may be he replaced it without removing the flywheel... + +The next step inserted the multimeter on the connector that connects the stator to the regulator (it was three wires I hope it was that) and measured AC voltage while cranking the engine. On 2 or 3 combinations (the connector has 3 wires) it read 5-6V AC while cranking. I took that to mean that the stator is producing some voltage and has not melted. + +I also measured on the wires leading to the coils and saw no voltage so the fault must be the CDI. + +Unfortunately the CDI seems to be outrageously expensive in Greece and must be brought in from abroad (no idea where) and costs something like $1000 whereas on US web sites the part is listed at around $340. + +One problem is that the US sites do not list my type of engine, mine is a F80AET and the US sites list a slightly different designation. + +Therefore the rectifier is 67F-81960-12 and on the US sites it is 67F-81960-12-00 - this looks the same so so far so good. + +On the CDI the part is 67F-85540-01 and on the US sites it is 67F-85540-03-00 - this looks to be slighly different.",anyone w/ advice +"Hello + +I have a Yamaha outboard, F80 model year 2002. The actual type and serial is F80AET L 1000795 Q + +The regulator seems to be blown and sends 17V to the battery depending on revs etc. Only on very low revs, idle, do I get 13.8V. Anything over that and we see the voltage increasing up to 17+ V. + +A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery while on a short trip trying to save the battery from abuse. Bad idea as I did not have engine trim and the engine instruments were showing rubbish. When I reconnected the battery, it miraculously started working again at a stable 13.8V or thereabouts, regardless of revs. + +I was told that rusty connectors do that, and I thought my action of removing the terminal and reinserting it did the trick. In addition I later filed, cleaned and polished the terminals and the battery is also brand new. + +5 weeks later and daily use of the boat, I was telling a friend the story, how I fixed the overvoltage problem with cleaning the terminals, and as I revved the engine to show him, I saw 15+ Volts. + +We measured the voltage on the engine and the problem seems to be the regulator. As it is hard to find a replacement in short notice, it is not a piece stores stock, and it is holidays now here in Greece, is there a trick I can do to preserve the battery? + +Each battery pole has two leads to it, a thick and a thinner one. The thick lead I presume drives the starter motor. But does it also charge the battery? Then once started I could remove just the thick lead. + +Any suggestions welcome.","Update: The timing belt is new according to someone that knows and can be replaced without the flywheel coming off. + +Just to repeat the sequence of events: + +1) Voltage reading reads too high, reaching 16V and flashing on the instruments +2) Disconnect battery negative terminal and use engine for 20 minutes while on a short journey. Battery poles are brand new but wire connectors are quite rusty. +3) Reconnect battery negative terminal and re-tighten the wing nuts. Miraculously voltage reading now reads a perfect 13.8-14.2V while engine is running. +4) Boat is being used thus for 5 weeks. +5) Suddenly one day voltage reading again starts to increase, eventually exceeding 17V. Instruments flashing. Tested voltage on battery poles with multimeter and it agrees with the instruments. +6) Decide to disconnect the positive battery terminal to ""save the battery from this abuse"". Engine drives OK for about 3 minutes and then stops and does not start again. As if I had removed the kill switch. There is a definitive smell of burn from the engine but even with the cover off, we cannot identify the part. +7) There is no spark at the plugs. There is no voltage detected before the spark coils (assuming the meter would detect a voltage pulse). +8) Whilst cranking the engine I detected 6V AC coming to the rectifier's connector from the stator - three wires in total. I am assuming there is ""life"" in the stator and maybe it has not melted. +9) Everything points to the CDI. Or maybe, complete destruction of the Rectifier/Regulator that has the side-effect of not letting the engine start at all?","Update: The timing belt is new according to someone that knows and can be replaced without the flywheel coming off. + +Just to repeat the sequence of events: + +1) Voltage reading reads too high, reaching 16V and flashing on the instruments +2) Disconnect battery negative terminal and use engine for 20 minutes while on a short journey. Battery poles are brand new but wire connectors are quite rusty. +3) Reconnect battery negative terminal and re-tighten the wing nuts. Miraculously voltage reading now reads a perfect 13.8-14.2V while engine is running. +4) Boat is being used thus for 5 weeks. +5) Suddenly one day voltage reading again starts to increase, eventually exceeding 17V. Instruments flashing. Tested voltage on battery poles with multimeter and it agrees with the instruments. +6) Decide to disconnect the positive battery terminal to ""save the battery from this abuse"". Engine drives OK for about 3 minutes and then stops and does not start again. As if I had removed the kill switch. There is a definitive smell of burn from the engine but even with the cover off, we cannot identify the part. +7) There is no spark at the plugs. There is no voltage detected before the spark coils (assuming the meter would detect a voltage pulse). +8) Whilst cranking the engine I detected 6V AC coming to the rectifier's connector from the stator - three wires in total. I am assuming there is ""life"" in the stator and maybe it has not melted. +9) Everything points to the CDI. Or maybe, complete destruction of the Rectifier/Regulator that has the side-effect of not letting the engine start at all?","I have the same engine and just use the plugs specified. Never had a problem with plugs. Plugs last forever these days and if they fail you have other issues causing them to fail in outboards given their use by recreational boaters. 100,000 miles on a car before plug problems show up? On a boat the plugs should last for years and years." +"I have a 1981 Yamaha Mariner 8 that runs flawlessly but the last time I took it out, the prop nut came off. Lucky I was not far from the doc and was able to retrieve the propeller. But I lost the nut and pin. I have looked on a million different sites and they all say the part is obsolete and out of stock. I checked with a local boat dealer who told me they couldn't get the part either. The part number is 80545M and boat serial is 677S045247. Any info would be great!!",hardware store get a stainless lock nut and some washers and pin put a washer on then the lock nut put a washer on top may need more until the cotter pin holds everything tight. you want everything to be stainless get a flat lock nut not a nylok the one with the dimple.,hardware store get a stainless lock nut and some washers and pin put a washer on then the lock nut put a washer on top may need more until the cotter pin holds everything tight. you want everything to be stainless get a flat lock nut not a nylok the one with the dimple.,Still no engine ID or model. +"I have a 1981 Yamaha Mariner 8 that runs flawlessly but the last time I took it out, the prop nut came off. Lucky I was not far from the doc and was able to retrieve the propeller. But I lost the nut and pin. I have looked on a million different sites and they all say the part is obsolete and out of stock. I checked with a local boat dealer who told me they couldn't get the part either. The part number is 80545M and boat serial is 677S045247. Any info would be great!!",it will be a metric thread,it will be a metric thread,Read post #2 again +"Heres the issue. Boat will crank on first turn of the key and idle perfect as long as you want it to idle. I can even drive In idle as long as I want with no issues. When I throttle up it starts to bog down like its not getting fuel. + +Here is my issue. I can prime the tank with the lines removed, and bulb immediately gets hard hook it to the motor and prime it and I never seems to get tight. However as I said above it will crank first shot an idle like a dream. + +Should I look at fuel pump or carbs. not sure why fuel line bulb never gets hard. Is there diaphragm in something that could be busted?","First! What we working on? + +And Yes the diaphragm if it's got a rip or hole it won't firm up when squeezin. + +Also IF??? the floats aren't set or there is something holding the needle valve open it won't firm. + +Is it running OK? Other than that? Do a compression test. +Some motors the pump operates on the compression from a certain cylinder. Again what we working on? +The squeezie could be bad? The diaphragm? The inline connectors? The hose could be delaminating from Ethanol? +The carbs high speed jet clogged? The linkage not advancing?","First! What we working on? + +And Yes the diaphragm if it's got a rip or hole it won't firm up when squeezin. + +Also IF??? the floats aren't set or there is something holding the needle valve open it won't firm. + +Is it running OK? Other than that? Do a compression test. +Some motors the pump operates on the compression from a certain cylinder. Again what we working on? +The squeezie could be bad? The diaphragm? The inline connectors? The hose could be delaminating from Ethanol? +The carbs high speed jet clogged? The linkage not advancing?","If the TC-W3 label is on the bottle, it meets the specs and is ""good enough"". The upper tier brands will use a better base oil for their products as well as an enhanced additive package. Depending upon your preference, you can choose the brand(s) with the formulation to satisfy your needs...like needing ""transportation"" - a bicycle, a volkswagon, a chevy, or a porsche....any will provide ""transportation""... + +BTW, you could spend a whole week reading about this topic....use your web browser if interested" +"Heres the issue. Boat will crank on first turn of the key and idle perfect as long as you want it to idle. I can even drive In idle as long as I want with no issues. When I throttle up it starts to bog down like its not getting fuel. + +Here is my issue. I can prime the tank with the lines removed, and bulb immediately gets hard hook it to the motor and prime it and I never seems to get tight. However as I said above it will crank first shot an idle like a dream. + +Should I look at fuel pump or carbs. not sure why fuel line bulb never gets hard. Is there diaphragm in something that could be busted?","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + First! What we working on? + +And Yes the diaphragm if it's got a rip or hole it won't firm up when squeezin. + +Also IF??? the floats aren't set or there is something holding the needle valve open it won't firm. + +Is it running OK? Other than that? Do a compression test. +Some motors the pump operates on the compression from a certain cylinder. Again what we working on? +The squeezie could be bad? The diaphragm? The inline connectors? The hose could be delaminating from Ethanol? +The carbs high speed jet clogged? The linkage not advancing? + +Click to expand... + + +Working on a Yamaha 40hp motor is a 92 but clean as brand new one + +I replaced the fuel lines from tank to motor... disconnected from motor the squeeze ball gets firm first squeeze. + +Has had nothing but non ethanol gas run in it with periodic sea foam and stabil + +Just didn't want to start replacing parts at random + +other than this it runs like a dream. Fires up on 1st turn of the key every time and will idle as long as you let it run with no flaw at all","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + First! What we working on? + +And Yes the diaphragm if it's got a rip or hole it won't firm up when squeezin. + +Also IF??? the floats aren't set or there is something holding the needle valve open it won't firm. + +Is it running OK? Other than that? Do a compression test. +Some motors the pump operates on the compression from a certain cylinder. Again what we working on? +The squeezie could be bad? The diaphragm? The inline connectors? The hose could be delaminating from Ethanol? +The carbs high speed jet clogged? The linkage not advancing? + +Click to expand... + + +Working on a Yamaha 40hp motor is a 92 but clean as brand new one + +I replaced the fuel lines from tank to motor... disconnected from motor the squeeze ball gets firm first squeeze. + +Has had nothing but non ethanol gas run in it with periodic sea foam and stabil + +Just didn't want to start replacing parts at random + +other than this it runs like a dream. Fires up on 1st turn of the key every time and will idle as long as you let it run with no flaw at all","If the gear box is in forward gear before dropping the lower unit, it would be near impossible for you to hand turn the crankshaft clockwise as you push down the impeller housing over the impeller. Gear box should be in neutral. + +What year is your engine? If this is your first impeller exchange I highly advise getting yourself a service manual specific to your engine. Even for the most experienced marine mechanic, getting the collar and wave washer on/off can be arduous, as well as extracting a seized woodruff key." +"Heres the issue. Boat will crank on first turn of the key and idle perfect as long as you want it to idle. I can even drive In idle as long as I want with no issues. When I throttle up it starts to bog down like its not getting fuel. + +Here is my issue. I can prime the tank with the lines removed, and bulb immediately gets hard hook it to the motor and prime it and I never seems to get tight. However as I said above it will crank first shot an idle like a dream. + +Should I look at fuel pump or carbs. not sure why fuel line bulb never gets hard. Is there diaphragm in something that could be busted?","Sorry 93 motor,","Sorry 93 motor,",Honest? You have a heat sender with a wire going to it? A sender that would tun on the light. +"Heres the issue. Boat will crank on first turn of the key and idle perfect as long as you want it to idle. I can even drive In idle as long as I want with no issues. When I throttle up it starts to bog down like its not getting fuel. + +Here is my issue. I can prime the tank with the lines removed, and bulb immediately gets hard hook it to the motor and prime it and I never seems to get tight. However as I said above it will crank first shot an idle like a dream. + +Should I look at fuel pump or carbs. not sure why fuel line bulb never gets hard. Is there diaphragm in something that could be busted?","Treetime said: + + + + Heres the issue. Boat will crank on first turn of the key and idle perfect as long as you want it to idle. I can even drive In idle as long as I want with no issues. When I throttle up it starts to bog down like its not getting fuel. + +Here is my issue. I can prime the tank with the lines removed, and bulb immediately gets hard hook it to the motor and prime it and I never seems to get tight. However as I said above it will crank first shot an idle like a dream. + +Should I look at fuel pump or carbs. not sure why fuel line bulb never gets hard. Is there diaphragm in something that could be busted? + +Click to expand... + + +replace the bulb that easy or what just had the same problem","Treetime said: + + + + Heres the issue. Boat will crank on first turn of the key and idle perfect as long as you want it to idle. I can even drive In idle as long as I want with no issues. When I throttle up it starts to bog down like its not getting fuel. + +Here is my issue. I can prime the tank with the lines removed, and bulb immediately gets hard hook it to the motor and prime it and I never seems to get tight. However as I said above it will crank first shot an idle like a dream. + +Should I look at fuel pump or carbs. not sure why fuel line bulb never gets hard. Is there diaphragm in something that could be busted? + +Click to expand... + + +replace the bulb that easy or what just had the same problem",the head is 195 degrees? if this is true it is Overheating for sure! +"Motor oil tank is overflowing. I have checked some things and this is what I have found. I checked the continuity of the engine ""oil level gauge assembly"" and it checks out ok. With key to acc the remote oil pump turns on and starts filling engine tank even though engine tank is already full. I unplugged engine oil tank harness and pump still comes on and wants to overfill engine tank. I unplugged harness at remote tank and have 12vdc at brown wire. This is whats confusing. I'm told the blue wire to ground will start the pump (correct me if i'm wrong). My fluke digital meter shows no ground on blue wire yet motor runs and pumps oil to engine tank?? Emergency switch tests ok but other stuff goes on inside the sealed ""oil control unit"" just not sure what. I believe the other two wires black and black/red at the remote tank are for low level alarm and should not be affecting my problem. Or could it?? Is the switch switching 12vdc or switching ground? If its switching ground could the blue be grounding to one of the float wires starting the pump. Testing thing at this point are difficult since the motor is at camp 250 miles away. Also the tilt switch located on the cowl will not work in the down position. I mention this because my manual shows the wiring also going to the (oil control unit). I did not see a plug for the tilt switch id goes into harness and disappears. Thank you for those who took the time to read and respond...","Had the same problem with my 86 ETLJ several years ago. The issue was a bad ""shut off switch"" on oil tank on engine. It's like a float switch that shuts off the pump when the oil in the tank on the engine reaches a given level. It's been so long ago that I don't recall the specifics, but if you check the parts diagram for your engine you should be able to find the switch to which I am referring. It was a simple and inexpensive repair. Perhaps someone else in the forum can help with more detail.","Had the same problem with my 86 ETLJ several years ago. The issue was a bad ""shut off switch"" on oil tank on engine. It's like a float switch that shuts off the pump when the oil in the tank on the engine reaches a given level. It's been so long ago that I don't recall the specifics, but if you check the parts diagram for your engine you should be able to find the switch to which I am referring. It was a simple and inexpensive repair. Perhaps someone else in the forum can help with more detail.","Thanks Stuart...cleaned as per instructions. prior to cleaning choke was fully closed to start and if adjusted engine died almost right away. after cleaning choke was adjustable for a short period ...seconds...then back to the same conditions prior to cleaning...!I cant keep it running long enough to try the vacuum leak test. if it was bad fuel it would just not run at all, right?...linkage etc all good and was working before this problem. Any further suggestions would be appreciated" +"Motor oil tank is overflowing. I have checked some things and this is what I have found. I checked the continuity of the engine ""oil level gauge assembly"" and it checks out ok. With key to acc the remote oil pump turns on and starts filling engine tank even though engine tank is already full. I unplugged engine oil tank harness and pump still comes on and wants to overfill engine tank. I unplugged harness at remote tank and have 12vdc at brown wire. This is whats confusing. I'm told the blue wire to ground will start the pump (correct me if i'm wrong). My fluke digital meter shows no ground on blue wire yet motor runs and pumps oil to engine tank?? Emergency switch tests ok but other stuff goes on inside the sealed ""oil control unit"" just not sure what. I believe the other two wires black and black/red at the remote tank are for low level alarm and should not be affecting my problem. Or could it?? Is the switch switching 12vdc or switching ground? If its switching ground could the blue be grounding to one of the float wires starting the pump. Testing thing at this point are difficult since the motor is at camp 250 miles away. Also the tilt switch located on the cowl will not work in the down position. I mention this because my manual shows the wiring also going to the (oil control unit). I did not see a plug for the tilt switch id goes into harness and disappears. Thank you for those who took the time to read and respond...",As I said above I checked that float switch and it checks out ok. That being said it could be an intermittent problem and I may change it any way. I just hate shot gunning a problem. The float switch is $100 dollars but i'm sure a service call would be much more. I have purchased a oil control unit so if that isn't it I will try the float switch. I appreciate the response...,As I said above I checked that float switch and it checks out ok. That being said it could be an intermittent problem and I may change it any way. I just hate shot gunning a problem. The float switch is $100 dollars but i'm sure a service call would be much more. I have purchased a oil control unit so if that isn't it I will try the float switch. I appreciate the response...,"I wish somebody would answer this question, I have the same issue." +"Motor oil tank is overflowing. I have checked some things and this is what I have found. I checked the continuity of the engine ""oil level gauge assembly"" and it checks out ok. With key to acc the remote oil pump turns on and starts filling engine tank even though engine tank is already full. I unplugged engine oil tank harness and pump still comes on and wants to overfill engine tank. I unplugged harness at remote tank and have 12vdc at brown wire. This is whats confusing. I'm told the blue wire to ground will start the pump (correct me if i'm wrong). My fluke digital meter shows no ground on blue wire yet motor runs and pumps oil to engine tank?? Emergency switch tests ok but other stuff goes on inside the sealed ""oil control unit"" just not sure what. I believe the other two wires black and black/red at the remote tank are for low level alarm and should not be affecting my problem. Or could it?? Is the switch switching 12vdc or switching ground? If its switching ground could the blue be grounding to one of the float wires starting the pump. Testing thing at this point are difficult since the motor is at camp 250 miles away. Also the tilt switch located on the cowl will not work in the down position. I mention this because my manual shows the wiring also going to the (oil control unit). I did not see a plug for the tilt switch id goes into harness and disappears. Thank you for those who took the time to read and respond...","You don't seem to get much in the line of responses here. This is what I have done so far. As mentioned above Main oil tank is overflowing and float switch inside main oil tank checks out ok. What I did find is no washer on the bottom of the strainer / float switch inside main oil tank. I bought one and installed it, I also replaced the oil control unit. I found one NOS for $80 on e-bay.. I have put about 3 hours on the motor and no overfilling so far. I will update if problem resurfaces.","You don't seem to get much in the line of responses here. This is what I have done so far. As mentioned above Main oil tank is overflowing and float switch inside main oil tank checks out ok. What I did find is no washer on the bottom of the strainer / float switch inside main oil tank. I bought one and installed it, I also replaced the oil control unit. I found one NOS for $80 on e-bay.. I have put about 3 hours on the motor and no overfilling so far. I will update if problem resurfaces.","boscoe said: + + + + What markings do you see on the CDI assembly? On the carburetor? On the starter motor? + +Click to expand... + + +CDI: TIA 02-17 6F0-10, Starter motor: S114-221J / 073, Carb looks like 6F000 UU20, engine number is 000598, I added a few generell pictures as well from when we opened it for the fist time" +"Motor oil tank is overflowing. I have checked some things and this is what I have found. I checked the continuity of the engine ""oil level gauge assembly"" and it checks out ok. With key to acc the remote oil pump turns on and starts filling engine tank even though engine tank is already full. I unplugged engine oil tank harness and pump still comes on and wants to overfill engine tank. I unplugged harness at remote tank and have 12vdc at brown wire. This is whats confusing. I'm told the blue wire to ground will start the pump (correct me if i'm wrong). My fluke digital meter shows no ground on blue wire yet motor runs and pumps oil to engine tank?? Emergency switch tests ok but other stuff goes on inside the sealed ""oil control unit"" just not sure what. I believe the other two wires black and black/red at the remote tank are for low level alarm and should not be affecting my problem. Or could it?? Is the switch switching 12vdc or switching ground? If its switching ground could the blue be grounding to one of the float wires starting the pump. Testing thing at this point are difficult since the motor is at camp 250 miles away. Also the tilt switch located on the cowl will not work in the down position. I mention this because my manual shows the wiring also going to the (oil control unit). I did not see a plug for the tilt switch id goes into harness and disappears. Thank you for those who took the time to read and respond...","Did you check the float switch ??, Sorry only kidding. +If the problem comes back than I would look at wiring. What is the switch doing ? Is it putting a ground for the motor. If a wire could be at times shorting out before the float it will run the tank (main ) motor on.","Did you check the float switch ??, Sorry only kidding. +If the problem comes back than I would look at wiring. What is the switch doing ? Is it putting a ground for the motor. If a wire could be at times shorting out before the float it will run the tank (main ) motor on.","What is your starting procedure? Are you priming with the bulb till firm? How are you using the choke function,throttle advance? Has a compression test been run on her lately? Has an open air gap spark test been completed, After running these two tests fuel diagnosis is third" +"Motor oil tank is overflowing. I have checked some things and this is what I have found. I checked the continuity of the engine ""oil level gauge assembly"" and it checks out ok. With key to acc the remote oil pump turns on and starts filling engine tank even though engine tank is already full. I unplugged engine oil tank harness and pump still comes on and wants to overfill engine tank. I unplugged harness at remote tank and have 12vdc at brown wire. This is whats confusing. I'm told the blue wire to ground will start the pump (correct me if i'm wrong). My fluke digital meter shows no ground on blue wire yet motor runs and pumps oil to engine tank?? Emergency switch tests ok but other stuff goes on inside the sealed ""oil control unit"" just not sure what. I believe the other two wires black and black/red at the remote tank are for low level alarm and should not be affecting my problem. Or could it?? Is the switch switching 12vdc or switching ground? If its switching ground could the blue be grounding to one of the float wires starting the pump. Testing thing at this point are difficult since the motor is at camp 250 miles away. Also the tilt switch located on the cowl will not work in the down position. I mention this because my manual shows the wiring also going to the (oil control unit). I did not see a plug for the tilt switch id goes into harness and disappears. Thank you for those who took the time to read and respond...","Well i just got back from the lake and the main oil tank will not refill automatically. I was riding along and the alarm started sounding so I popped the cowl and found the oil level at the low mark. I am able to re-fill using the emergency toggle switch. So now I have a new problem. I had to use the emergency switch twice ( one refill every 20-25 miles). You ask whats the switch doing? On the bench last winter wires W-B show continuity from top down 1/4 inch (stop fill), wires W-Br show continuity down 1-3/8 inch - 1-5/8 inch (start fill), and wires W-R show continuity 2-3/16 inch - 2-1/4 inch down (low alarm). These all fell within the repair manual specifications. I will pull and bench test again later this month. This new problem started with the replacement of the oil control unit??? This issue is a little more tolerable than an overflowing issue.The B (black)wire goes to ground in the schematic so the Br wire must tie into the ground of the remote oil pump. I also see the Br going into the CDI unit???","Well i just got back from the lake and the main oil tank will not refill automatically. I was riding along and the alarm started sounding so I popped the cowl and found the oil level at the low mark. I am able to re-fill using the emergency toggle switch. So now I have a new problem. I had to use the emergency switch twice ( one refill every 20-25 miles). You ask whats the switch doing? On the bench last winter wires W-B show continuity from top down 1/4 inch (stop fill), wires W-Br show continuity down 1-3/8 inch - 1-5/8 inch (start fill), and wires W-R show continuity 2-3/16 inch - 2-1/4 inch down (low alarm). These all fell within the repair manual specifications. I will pull and bench test again later this month. This new problem started with the replacement of the oil control unit??? This issue is a little more tolerable than an overflowing issue.The B (black)wire goes to ground in the schematic so the Br wire must tie into the ground of the remote oil pump. I also see the Br going into the CDI unit???",Year and model Number of the engines please. +"Motor oil tank is overflowing. I have checked some things and this is what I have found. I checked the continuity of the engine ""oil level gauge assembly"" and it checks out ok. With key to acc the remote oil pump turns on and starts filling engine tank even though engine tank is already full. I unplugged engine oil tank harness and pump still comes on and wants to overfill engine tank. I unplugged harness at remote tank and have 12vdc at brown wire. This is whats confusing. I'm told the blue wire to ground will start the pump (correct me if i'm wrong). My fluke digital meter shows no ground on blue wire yet motor runs and pumps oil to engine tank?? Emergency switch tests ok but other stuff goes on inside the sealed ""oil control unit"" just not sure what. I believe the other two wires black and black/red at the remote tank are for low level alarm and should not be affecting my problem. Or could it?? Is the switch switching 12vdc or switching ground? If its switching ground could the blue be grounding to one of the float wires starting the pump. Testing thing at this point are difficult since the motor is at camp 250 miles away. Also the tilt switch located on the cowl will not work in the down position. I mention this because my manual shows the wiring also going to the (oil control unit). I did not see a plug for the tilt switch id goes into harness and disappears. Thank you for those who took the time to read and respond...","mikeroc said: + + + + Well i just got back from the lake and the main oil tank will not refill automatically. I was riding along and the alarm started sounding so I popped the cowl and found the oil level at the low mark. I am able to re-fill using the emergency toggle switch. So now I have a new problem. I had to use the emergency switch twice ( one refill every 20-25 miles). You ask whats the switch doing? On the bench last winter wires W-B show continuity from top down 1/4 inch (stop fill), wires W-Br show continuity down 1-3/8 inch - 1-5/8 inch (start fill), and wires W-R show continuity 2-3/16 inch - 2-1/4 inch down (low alarm). These all fell within the repair manual specifications. I will pull and bench test again later this month. This new problem started with the replacement of the oil control unit??? This issue is a little more tolerable than an overflowing issue.The B (black)wire goes to ground in the schematic so the Br wire must tie into the ground of the remote oil pump. I also see the Br going into the CDI unit??? + +Click to expand... + + +Here's what happen to me. I have twin 150's . The alarm went off and oil was not filling the tank on the engine . I swapped the tank units on the engine and it never repeated . Was I lucky or what. +Something could be learned from this. +Your problem before was over filling and now not filling. +With out a wire print in front of me it's hard to figure what you checked out but i'm sure it checked OK. +I think you have a bad wiring. Before it may have been shorting and ran the pump and now it's open and will not run .Check the plug and look at the pins. Remove them if you can and look at them. Trace the wires as far back as you can looking for chafing . Or if you can ring out the wires with a OHM meter and wiggle the wires as you do this to see if any wire opens . Put one meter lead end on the engine block and to each pin and see if anything is shorted. Here again a wiring print will come in handy so you will know what plug to disconnect. Also with the correct plug disconnected jumper pins and ring out pin to pin at the tank plug to see if they are open or shorted. It's going to be time consuming. I worked for a airline (AA) for 38 years in avionics and that's what we did mostly did looking for a bad wiring. But we had good wiring prints to follow. +good luck and hope I helped in some way. + Bob","mikeroc said: + + + + Well i just got back from the lake and the main oil tank will not refill automatically. I was riding along and the alarm started sounding so I popped the cowl and found the oil level at the low mark. I am able to re-fill using the emergency toggle switch. So now I have a new problem. I had to use the emergency switch twice ( one refill every 20-25 miles). You ask whats the switch doing? On the bench last winter wires W-B show continuity from top down 1/4 inch (stop fill), wires W-Br show continuity down 1-3/8 inch - 1-5/8 inch (start fill), and wires W-R show continuity 2-3/16 inch - 2-1/4 inch down (low alarm). These all fell within the repair manual specifications. I will pull and bench test again later this month. This new problem started with the replacement of the oil control unit??? This issue is a little more tolerable than an overflowing issue.The B (black)wire goes to ground in the schematic so the Br wire must tie into the ground of the remote oil pump. I also see the Br going into the CDI unit??? + +Click to expand... + + +Here's what happen to me. I have twin 150's . The alarm went off and oil was not filling the tank on the engine . I swapped the tank units on the engine and it never repeated . Was I lucky or what. +Something could be learned from this. +Your problem before was over filling and now not filling. +With out a wire print in front of me it's hard to figure what you checked out but i'm sure it checked OK. +I think you have a bad wiring. Before it may have been shorting and ran the pump and now it's open and will not run .Check the plug and look at the pins. Remove them if you can and look at them. Trace the wires as far back as you can looking for chafing . Or if you can ring out the wires with a OHM meter and wiggle the wires as you do this to see if any wire opens . Put one meter lead end on the engine block and to each pin and see if anything is shorted. Here again a wiring print will come in handy so you will know what plug to disconnect. Also with the correct plug disconnected jumper pins and ring out pin to pin at the tank plug to see if they are open or shorted. It's going to be time consuming. I worked for a airline (AA) for 38 years in avionics and that's what we did mostly did looking for a bad wiring. But we had good wiring prints to follow. +good luck and hope I helped in some way. + Bob","deepsea21 said: + + + + IN that diagram are you talking about part/assembly #20? This is just a guess and I'll have to look at mine as the design can't have changed that much - I'm wondering (if it is part #20) I see 4 indents on the top of the piston housing. I'm wondering if when the motor is fully tilted up those 4 indents aren't there to serve as some type of anchor points that allow one to unscrew the top of the cylinder and pull that piston assembly out. Once out I'd bet the bottom of the piston assembly can be taken off allowing the piston to be fully pulled out the top. If that's the case, seems like it should be possible to then pry out whatever little rubber dust gasket is in there and find another gasket that may fit in its place. If it does come out that way you'd probably have to drain all fluid and leave the system open to pull that piston assembly out of the cylinder. At this point - what do you have to lose except $525 on a replacement + +Click to expand... + + +I have removed the whole trim/tilt system from the engine and removed both the trim and tilt piston/rod assemblies. Yes those 4 indents allow you to unscrew the cap (where the dust seal is located) and remove the rod and piston. As far as I can tell the yoke at the top that attaches to the engine does not unscrew nor do I see how the piston comes off. This arrangement does not let you slide the cap off the rod. If you remove the screw in the bottom of the piston you see 5 springs that load some kind of mushroom shaped stops. I guess that they have somehow pressure related." +"Hello from Panama. + + +I live in the Country of Panama (Retired US Citizen). I’m new to this group this being my first Post. Before I continue with my question/problem. I have available a very long and detailed troubleshooting and part change/swap out document that detailing what I have done so far trying to solve this problem. I can either post or send it PM. Anyway here is my problem in smaller detail. + + +This problem started as an erratic and intermittent idle and then when degraded until I got the Check Engine light - that’s where the fun began. I hooked up the the YDIS and it showed both the TPS and the Air Temp Sensor codes. I was able to clear the codes and drive the boat and all was well for a few days although the idle was still erratic. I ordered parts and thus began the below TPS nightmare in Panama! + +I changed ECM, TPS and Air Temp Sensor. The codes cleared, I test drove it twice and everything went great. I turned it in on and off numerous times. No problem it ran and performed great. The new day I went down and started it, bingo I got the Check Engine light…same codes. Now I can’t get the TPS Sensor (old one or new one) to adjust within limits when installed on the throttle body. I can however remove the TPS sensor and manually turn it approximately 10 - 15 deg past the maximum adjustment range (Screw Slots) and I can then clear the TPS code. It doesn’t matter if I use the Old or New ECM's or the Old or New TPS sensor etc.. I can now only clear the TPS code when the TPS is turned past the set limits using a slotted screw driver (TPS is plugged in but removed from the Throttle Body. + +At this point I’m completely stumped. +What would of great benefit to me at this point would be If someone could send me to a link (document, manual, service bulletin, etc) where I can read and confirm whether I am installing the TPS sensor correctly onto the throttle body, or explain why I can’t set the TPS Sensor within the adjustment range. I am open for any guesses, suggestions on what to test,, retest, change parts, etc. + +NOTE: I have the YDIS Software and cable and have been using it to trouble shoot the system. All of the Sensors check good (Voltage/Ohms) per the manual except the TPS Sensor. The Voltage, continuity and ohms checks have been performed per the Yamaha manual. The voltage at the TPS connector - between the Pink and Black wires is 0.00 and the voltage between the orange and black wire is also 0.00 One of the Yamaha manuals (on line - says check the Pink and Black and one Yamaha manual (mine) says to Check the Orange and Black wires at the connector. Continuity checks have been performed several times between the ECM wires/connectors and the TPS and Air Temp Sensors wires/connectors with great continuity every time! + + +Well I guess this one is long too…lol + + +Parts Changed to date. +ECM +TPS +ICS Valve +Air Temp Sensor +Battery Negative Cable - Temp Changed + + +Seroiusly any suggestions or wild ass guesses are welcome + + +Cheers, + + +Ken Hamilton + +aka - bocashippie","TPS Proiblem Solved + +Problem Solved - After 40 hours plus time spent Testing and Changing parts, I found the problem with the TPS. The optional Water Press Sensor I installed about six months after installing the engine had failed, Note: I never got any Fault Code showing on the YDS for the Water Sensor only the TPS system. I unplugged the Sensor and All is well. If anyone wants futher info please contact me. + + +Cheers, + + +Ken","TPS Proiblem Solved + +Problem Solved - After 40 hours plus time spent Testing and Changing parts, I found the problem with the TPS. The optional Water Press Sensor I installed about six months after installing the engine had failed, Note: I never got any Fault Code showing on the YDS for the Water Sensor only the TPS system. I unplugged the Sensor and All is well. If anyone wants futher info please contact me. + + +Cheers, + + +Ken","Have you changed or at least checked the lower unit lube? If it is new to you a change would be recommended, there's no telling how old the stuff is." +"Hello. + +I have just bought a ""new"" used enigine for my boat, as topic says its a yamaha 50Hp 4stroke 2000-2001(year model) . + +i just tried it for the first time today after installing it on my boat, and im totaly new at boats and boats engines, but the rpm at idle was around 1800, aint that way too high? +also, when i finaly was going out of the harbour whit my boat the lowest speed was way too high, had a realy hard time trying too drive it between all the other boats there. when i finaly managed too get it out too the sea i startet giving it more power, and it sounded great and work perfectly. cruising speed around 4000rpms and maxed out i did around 5700rpms. but then i was going back too the harbour and again the speed was way too high, and when i put the throttle back in neutral the engien reved up by itself, way up too. i stopped the eningen when it hit 3500rpms when throttle was in idel(gass handel was in neutral) anyone have any idea what it can be? also a lot of smoke came out of the exhaust, it almost seemed like the choke was kicking in and giving the enigien too much gas? + +all tips would be gratefully epriciated + +and sorry for my bad english, im norwegian, so writing from the cold north + +cheers.",What is the model for your outboard? carbs or EFI. When you first install the motor you have to check and adjust the throttle cable. Remove the throttle cable linkage at the motor and start it up and set your idle RPM. Once that's done adjust the throttle cable accordingly. Next is you have to locate the electric choke wire at the key switch. You might have connect the wrong wire to the electric joke wire. You are definitely running rich.,What is the model for your outboard? carbs or EFI. When you first install the motor you have to check and adjust the throttle cable. Remove the throttle cable linkage at the motor and start it up and set your idle RPM. Once that's done adjust the throttle cable accordingly. Next is you have to locate the electric choke wire at the key switch. You might have connect the wrong wire to the electric joke wire. You are definitely running rich.,great tip! +"Hello. + +I have just bought a ""new"" used enigine for my boat, as topic says its a yamaha 50Hp 4stroke 2000-2001(year model) . + +i just tried it for the first time today after installing it on my boat, and im totaly new at boats and boats engines, but the rpm at idle was around 1800, aint that way too high? +also, when i finaly was going out of the harbour whit my boat the lowest speed was way too high, had a realy hard time trying too drive it between all the other boats there. when i finaly managed too get it out too the sea i startet giving it more power, and it sounded great and work perfectly. cruising speed around 4000rpms and maxed out i did around 5700rpms. but then i was going back too the harbour and again the speed was way too high, and when i put the throttle back in neutral the engien reved up by itself, way up too. i stopped the eningen when it hit 3500rpms when throttle was in idel(gass handel was in neutral) anyone have any idea what it can be? also a lot of smoke came out of the exhaust, it almost seemed like the choke was kicking in and giving the enigien too much gas? + +all tips would be gratefully epriciated + +and sorry for my bad english, im norwegian, so writing from the cold north + +cheers.","its a carb model, 4 carbs. 2 have been changed last year, but the other 2 dident need chaning acording too the service shop. + +i think maybe theres something whit the throttle cabel, because it has been another engien on this boat before, a 25hk mercury. and i just mounted a 50 yamaha, and i did not adjust the throttle cabel..... + +since the boat and anything is totaly new too me, how do i find out about the choke? if it is automatic choke, or manuel? + +i read somewhere that idle RPM on this engien should be around 800? +and iv been told not too drive whit the boat untill thats fixed because i can brake the gearing when i put it in gear on that high rpm?","its a carb model, 4 carbs. 2 have been changed last year, but the other 2 dident need chaning acording too the service shop. + +i think maybe theres something whit the throttle cabel, because it has been another engien on this boat before, a 25hk mercury. and i just mounted a 50 yamaha, and i did not adjust the throttle cabel..... + +since the boat and anything is totaly new too me, how do i find out about the choke? if it is automatic choke, or manuel? + +i read somewhere that idle RPM on this engien should be around 800? +and iv been told not too drive whit the boat untill thats fixed because i can brake the gearing when i put it in gear on that high rpm?",I couldnt find a stamp and the sticker is faded not legible. It is on the title tho on mine the sticker is on the drivers side tube where the two meet at the center tube. +"Hello. + +I have just bought a ""new"" used enigine for my boat, as topic says its a yamaha 50Hp 4stroke 2000-2001(year model) . + +i just tried it for the first time today after installing it on my boat, and im totaly new at boats and boats engines, but the rpm at idle was around 1800, aint that way too high? +also, when i finaly was going out of the harbour whit my boat the lowest speed was way too high, had a realy hard time trying too drive it between all the other boats there. when i finaly managed too get it out too the sea i startet giving it more power, and it sounded great and work perfectly. cruising speed around 4000rpms and maxed out i did around 5700rpms. but then i was going back too the harbour and again the speed was way too high, and when i put the throttle back in neutral the engien reved up by itself, way up too. i stopped the eningen when it hit 3500rpms when throttle was in idel(gass handel was in neutral) anyone have any idea what it can be? also a lot of smoke came out of the exhaust, it almost seemed like the choke was kicking in and giving the enigien too much gas? + +all tips would be gratefully epriciated + +and sorry for my bad english, im norwegian, so writing from the cold north + +cheers.","so it turns out that its the electrick thermal valve thats messing Things up..... + +it dosent move, its Automatic choke on this and as i said it dosent move at all....","so it turns out that its the electrick thermal valve thats messing Things up..... + +it dosent move, its Automatic choke on this and as i said it dosent move at all....","It will happen again if you did not took it apart, clean and lubricate." +"Hello. + +I have just bought a ""new"" used enigine for my boat, as topic says its a yamaha 50Hp 4stroke 2000-2001(year model) . + +i just tried it for the first time today after installing it on my boat, and im totaly new at boats and boats engines, but the rpm at idle was around 1800, aint that way too high? +also, when i finaly was going out of the harbour whit my boat the lowest speed was way too high, had a realy hard time trying too drive it between all the other boats there. when i finaly managed too get it out too the sea i startet giving it more power, and it sounded great and work perfectly. cruising speed around 4000rpms and maxed out i did around 5700rpms. but then i was going back too the harbour and again the speed was way too high, and when i put the throttle back in neutral the engien reved up by itself, way up too. i stopped the eningen when it hit 3500rpms when throttle was in idel(gass handel was in neutral) anyone have any idea what it can be? also a lot of smoke came out of the exhaust, it almost seemed like the choke was kicking in and giving the enigien too much gas? + +all tips would be gratefully epriciated + +and sorry for my bad english, im norwegian, so writing from the cold north + +cheers.","Guys, can anyone tell me where the Choke Solenoid is supose too get electricity from? +i followed the wiriing and found that it got it from the starter relay. is that correct? because it only gets electricity a short while, while im using the starter too start the engien, shouldnt it get power all the time?","Guys, can anyone tell me where the Choke Solenoid is supose too get electricity from? +i followed the wiriing and found that it got it from the starter relay. is that correct? because it only gets electricity a short while, while im using the starter too start the engien, shouldnt it get power all the time?","Running on muffs,possibly not enough volume of water,go back to tub to see if overheating issue subsides. Since desalting in tub have the RsPM increased, Not a fan of revving in neutral,no load on engine." +"We have a 2011 yamaha with 91 hours on it. It sat all last year with little gas in it. Yes, we had used gas with ethanol. When we used it this year, we only could only get 4400 rpms. If we accelerated, it bogged down. We have changed the interior and exterior filters, had the fuel separators cleaned, had the bottom fuel pump filter cleaned, had the fuel injectors cleaned, and replaced the ethanol gas with non ethanol gas. All of this has made no difference. It still bogs down like it's starving for gas and only 4400 rpms. All mechanics are at a loss as to what to try next. Any ideas you could share would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance as our summer is quickly shrinking!",How does it idle? If it idles rough it could be one or two injectors are stuck. I suggest you to get an external 6 gal gas tank and fill it up with fresh gas and then water test it. If it still the same then check to make sure all the injectors are clicking while the engine is running. You are either have water in the gas or the injectors not firing on all 4. The majority of the running issues with all the outboards are fuel related. This is from my experience. GL,How does it idle? If it idles rough it could be one or two injectors are stuck. I suggest you to get an external 6 gal gas tank and fill it up with fresh gas and then water test it. If it still the same then check to make sure all the injectors are clicking while the engine is running. You are either have water in the gas or the injectors not firing on all 4. The majority of the running issues with all the outboards are fuel related. This is from my experience. GL,It may be worth a call to Fond Du Lac and just ask the tech support dept.... +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,"Hook up a two fuel pressure gauges, one to the fuel rail and one to the air rail. See if your fuel pressure is dropping off, If the Air pressure drops the engine will stall also. 80PSI on the Air and 90PSI on the fuel unless it's a Pro Max. + + +Make sure the belt is in good shape and the spring tensioner is working correctly.","Hook up a two fuel pressure gauges, one to the fuel rail and one to the air rail. See if your fuel pressure is dropping off, If the Air pressure drops the engine will stall also. 80PSI on the Air and 90PSI on the fuel unless it's a Pro Max. + + +Make sure the belt is in good shape and the spring tensioner is working correctly.",Spray some PB Blaster or likewise....and of course be sure you're trying to turn the screw counterclockwise. +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,"I'll check the fuel and air pressures as well as the belt and tensioners. Does this engine have a data interface connector? I have a Mercury computer system for Mercruisers and outboards. Since this was a Yamaha product, I hadn't tried a computer diagnostic yet.","I'll check the fuel and air pressures as well as the belt and tensioners. Does this engine have a data interface connector? I have a Mercury computer system for Mercruisers and outboards. Since this was a Yamaha product, I hadn't tried a computer diagnostic yet.","If the motor wouldn't fire even for a short time even when you are spraying starting fluid in, it is likely to be either spark or possibly even water coming through a blow head gasket. Watch this video and start to isolate each system to confirm it is working. If you step through methodically you will find the problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXNXzs5Ggjs In fact the outboard used in this video has blown head gasket so you'll see the symptoms of that. + +Stuart" +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,I'll try that too. I haven't found access to the tank from anywhere so far if the screen is somehow plugged though.,I'll try that too. I haven't found access to the tank from anywhere so far if the screen is somehow plugged though.,"Thanks. Guess ""better safe than sorry"" is always a good route to follow." +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,"Check the air and fuel pressure as suggested. The air was @78-82 psi. The fuel was right at 90 psi. Ran a shop tank but had the same problem. Checked the tps unloaded and saw that resistence increased and decreased smoothly. The engine started and idled great, idled out and increased rpm above 2000 no problem. Then continued to add throttle, got just up to 4500 rpm when it cut out. Restarted at an idle and headed back to the dock, eventually made it after the engine stalled several times. Restarted after letting it sit for a while. Anyone have further thoughts?","Check the air and fuel pressure as suggested. The air was @78-82 psi. The fuel was right at 90 psi. Ran a shop tank but had the same problem. Checked the tps unloaded and saw that resistence increased and decreased smoothly. The engine started and idled great, idled out and increased rpm above 2000 no problem. Then continued to add throttle, got just up to 4500 rpm when it cut out. Restarted at an idle and headed back to the dock, eventually made it after the engine stalled several times. Restarted after letting it sit for a while. Anyone have further thoughts?",Normal. +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,Leave the gauges on while you sea trial.,Leave the gauges on while you sea trial.,"Hi Reno62, sorry for slow response. Just saw this in my queue. I did work out my problem and am embarassed to say it was nothing to do with the motor. It was just a thin film of barnacles that were on the hull, so thin I thought would make no difference, but scraped them off and performance completely back to normal! Lesson learned!" +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,"So, is this a slow ""stall"" (koff-koff, bing-da-da-bing), or an ""instant off stall""?","So, is this a slow ""stall"" (koff-koff, bing-da-da-bing), or an ""instant off stall""?","Ayuh,.... Painting galvanized things stops the galvanized protection... + +Leavin' 'em be, is the best protection..." +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,Actually it is more like the engine is turned off. It doesn't sputter or buck but rather just stops. Normally it starts right back up but will stall again if throttle is advanced at all even just putting it in gear will stop it.,Actually it is more like the engine is turned off. It doesn't sputter or buck but rather just stops. Normally it starts right back up but will stall again if throttle is advanced at all even just putting it in gear will stop it.,"Ok. Now what size? I've,did some research. Should I drill new smaller holes for the rivets? Or should I put them into the existing screw holes which are 1/4"" minimum?" +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,"Like I said, hook both gauges up and take it for a ride and see if you are losing fuel or air. This is the first step in diagnosing this issue after the obvious has been checked.","Like I said, hook both gauges up and take it for a ride and see if you are losing fuel or air. This is the first step in diagnosing this issue after the obvious has been checked.","Ayuh,.... Got any Pictures,..??" +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,After replacing the fuel and air regulators on the port fuel along with the regulator springs and injectors seals the engine started right up once pressure was reached. Ran better than ever for hours and then suddenly shut down like it was turn off. Was not able to be restarted. This sounds more electrical than fuel now though. Any direction to go now?,After replacing the fuel and air regulators on the port fuel along with the regulator springs and injectors seals the engine started right up once pressure was reached. Ran better than ever for hours and then suddenly shut down like it was turn off. Was not able to be restarted. This sounds more electrical than fuel now though. Any direction to go now?,This is the serial/model number (see photo). +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,"Check your fuel and air pressure again. If there is no fuel pressure it will not even try to start. If the air compressor failed it will not even try to start. + +FYI, this engine is made by Mercury not by Yamaha.","Check your fuel and air pressure again. If there is no fuel pressure it will not even try to start. If the air compressor failed it will not even try to start. + +FYI, this engine is made by Mercury not by Yamaha.","Check the battery cables (+ve and -ve) going from the port battery to the port switch and engine. From what you have posted I suspect a bad cable end or connection.The cable ends may look OK, but they can corrode under the heat shrink and be bad even when looking OK. Try bending the cable at the heat shrink to see if one end bends more easily than the others. I would also take the -ve cable off the engine block and clean up the connection at that point. This is a reasonably common failure point on some Yamahas." +Working on a Mercury jet boat with Yamaha Optimax engine. The engine starts and runs great but then will just stall. Restarts and runs great again only to stall out. Previously had a fuel pump issue and replaced the internal high pressure pump in the VST and the tiny lift pump. The other low pressure pump was not replaced but tested ok and was pumping fuel. Hate to replace that pump too as they are pretty pricey. Is there another test I can do to the pump to test it? The engine has had all its filters replaced and the fuel is good. Im thinking perhaps the float in the VST is sticking closed and is not refilling with fresh fuel. But why is it refilling after the engine shuts down?,"After the replacement of fuel and air regulators on the port side the engine started and ran great without stalling. At least for a few hours anyway. Then it just stopped and would not restart. Upon testing, there is no spark what so ever. Engine turns over just fine and fuel and air pressure pump up as they should. Gotta love boats.","After the replacement of fuel and air regulators on the port side the engine started and ran great without stalling. At least for a few hours anyway. Then it just stopped and would not restart. Upon testing, there is no spark what so ever. Engine turns over just fine and fuel and air pressure pump up as they should. Gotta love boats.","boscoe said: + + + + Poor record keeping on Yamaha's part. + +6L2-45361 is the base number. + +-00-EK were the original dash numbers. Last two are for the colour code. + +It is normal for a -00 to be replaced by a -01. -01 R/B -02. -02 R/B -03. + +4D is the latest colour code or finish code. But who cares. + +Click to expand... + + + +Might give it a try then. They are $75 and if it doesn't fit I can always do a return I guess. + +I appreciate it and so does my grandma." +"The problem: +Stalls when attempt to engage gear. Once underway, WOT 1200/1500 rpm. Fast idle fluctuates back to 400. +Attempted fix: +Compression check OK. 108 - 110 all cylinders. +Drained carb bowls & filled with Sea Foam through fuel lines. Soaked overnight. +1gal of ring free shock treatment through engine over 3 treatments. +Engine submerged in 100 gal tub.Water line above anticav plate +New plugs. Fresh gas w/ stabilizer +All timing and idle settings to specs (motor running in tank except for advance timing set statically). Idle good. Fast idle holds steady at 1200 - 1500 rpm +Back at the ramp: +Same problem as above. No improvement. +Question: +Is ""off block"" carb clean and rebuild my next step? Is there something else I should check?","Have you checked the fuel pumps? If the 86 is similar to the later 2 strokes they are a common problem. As for the carbs, they could also be the issue and normally need lots of compressed air through the jets to be cleaned properly. Check the fuel pumps first though as this is very likely issue.","Have you checked the fuel pumps? If the 86 is similar to the later 2 strokes they are a common problem. As for the carbs, they could also be the issue and normally need lots of compressed air through the jets to be cleaned properly. Check the fuel pumps first though as this is very likely issue.",Do you have a fuse block with a extra slot? Is you spot light going to be permanent? If so hard wire it with a fuse on the hot side and put your switch on the dash? Always use tinned marine grade wire when adding accys. Fuse everything. +"The problem: +Stalls when attempt to engage gear. Once underway, WOT 1200/1500 rpm. Fast idle fluctuates back to 400. +Attempted fix: +Compression check OK. 108 - 110 all cylinders. +Drained carb bowls & filled with Sea Foam through fuel lines. Soaked overnight. +1gal of ring free shock treatment through engine over 3 treatments. +Engine submerged in 100 gal tub.Water line above anticav plate +New plugs. Fresh gas w/ stabilizer +All timing and idle settings to specs (motor running in tank except for advance timing set statically). Idle good. Fast idle holds steady at 1200 - 1500 rpm +Back at the ramp: +Same problem as above. No improvement. +Question: +Is ""off block"" carb clean and rebuild my next step? Is there something else I should check?","Check for spark on all leads.-------Spark MUST jump a gap in open air of 3/8"" or more.-----These motors will sound pretty good running on 4/5 of 6 cylinders.------Check the reed valves too.","Check for spark on all leads.-------Spark MUST jump a gap in open air of 3/8"" or more.-----These motors will sound pretty good running on 4/5 of 6 cylinders.------Check the reed valves too.","The head gasket is the one to look at. Maybe it's just a smaller leak now after you replaced it. I would do a compression test on all cylinders just to confirm they're all about the same. + +Water can leak out of the exhaust manifold gasket, the thermostat housing and through the internal anode if it's corroded enough.. but I don't see how it could end up in the crankcase if those were the source of the leak." +"The problem: +Stalls when attempt to engage gear. Once underway, WOT 1200/1500 rpm. Fast idle fluctuates back to 400. +Attempted fix: +Compression check OK. 108 - 110 all cylinders. +Drained carb bowls & filled with Sea Foam through fuel lines. Soaked overnight. +1gal of ring free shock treatment through engine over 3 treatments. +Engine submerged in 100 gal tub.Water line above anticav plate +New plugs. Fresh gas w/ stabilizer +All timing and idle settings to specs (motor running in tank except for advance timing set statically). Idle good. Fast idle holds steady at 1200 - 1500 rpm +Back at the ramp: +Same problem as above. No improvement. +Question: +Is ""off block"" carb clean and rebuild my next step? Is there something else I should check?","Thanks, I'll check spark at all cylinders. Reed valves, too. Currently recovering from spine surgery.Will report back in a couple of weeks.","Thanks, I'll check spark at all cylinders. Reed valves, too. Currently recovering from spine surgery.Will report back in a couple of weeks.","Mikey N.C. said: + + + + Did u find problem? + +Click to expand... + + +mall I have found is that at WOT fuel pressure drops to 20 psi at idle and 3/4 throttle I’m running at 40 psi. Any suggestions as where to look ???" +"The problem: +Stalls when attempt to engage gear. Once underway, WOT 1200/1500 rpm. Fast idle fluctuates back to 400. +Attempted fix: +Compression check OK. 108 - 110 all cylinders. +Drained carb bowls & filled with Sea Foam through fuel lines. Soaked overnight. +1gal of ring free shock treatment through engine over 3 treatments. +Engine submerged in 100 gal tub.Water line above anticav plate +New plugs. Fresh gas w/ stabilizer +All timing and idle settings to specs (motor running in tank except for advance timing set statically). Idle good. Fast idle holds steady at 1200 - 1500 rpm +Back at the ramp: +Same problem as above. No improvement. +Question: +Is ""off block"" carb clean and rebuild my next step? Is there something else I should check?",Thanks for the suggestion. Will check fuel pumps before I dig into carbs. Will report back with fuel pump results.,Thanks for the suggestion. Will check fuel pumps before I dig into carbs. Will report back with fuel pump results.,"It is an outboard 90 HP Evinrude V4 The model is a VRO and I have taken the cowling off and did see any fuses. + + + + + +ibnfshn said: + + + + It would be nice to know what you are working on. If it is an outboard look for a fuse (usually 20 amp) under the cowling of the motor. + +Click to expand..." +"The problem: +Stalls when attempt to engage gear. Once underway, WOT 1200/1500 rpm. Fast idle fluctuates back to 400. +Attempted fix: +Compression check OK. 108 - 110 all cylinders. +Drained carb bowls & filled with Sea Foam through fuel lines. Soaked overnight. +1gal of ring free shock treatment through engine over 3 treatments. +Engine submerged in 100 gal tub.Water line above anticav plate +New plugs. Fresh gas w/ stabilizer +All timing and idle settings to specs (motor running in tank except for advance timing set statically). Idle good. Fast idle holds steady at 1200 - 1500 rpm +Back at the ramp: +Same problem as above. No improvement. +Question: +Is ""off block"" carb clean and rebuild my next step? Is there something else I should check?",Fuel pumps OK. Reed valves OK Carbs next.,Fuel pumps OK. Reed valves OK Carbs next.,What answer do you want? I thought this has already been covered pretty well on another forum. +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks",You are in luck. Your CDI unit is bad. If you check the voltage to the TPS with the key turn to ON there is no 5V going to the TPS. This is per the service manual. I have this same issue on my F90TLRB that I just bought from a stupid azz marina. They said it ran fine at their marina so they will not do anything for me. The new CDI costs $400. I am waiting for mine to arrive any day now.,You are in luck. Your CDI unit is bad. If you check the voltage to the TPS with the key turn to ON there is no 5V going to the TPS. This is per the service manual. I have this same issue on my F90TLRB that I just bought from a stupid azz marina. They said it ran fine at their marina so they will not do anything for me. The new CDI costs $400. I am waiting for mine to arrive any day now.,"I haven't heard that before either, but it doesn't sound like metal-to-metal grinding. + +Did you lightly grease the impeller fins and the inside of the housing?" +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks","Vinh, Thanks for the CDI info. Have you received and installed your new unit. How she run? My boat is down in Baja and I will not be able to replace my CDI unit until October , when it cools down , down there. Just got back to San Diego an hour ago. Thanks again for your reply'","Vinh, Thanks for the CDI info. Have you received and installed your new unit. How she run? My boat is down in Baja and I will not be able to replace my CDI unit until October , when it cools down , down there. Just got back to San Diego an hour ago. Thanks again for your reply'",Spray some PB Blaster or likewise....and of course be sure you're trying to turn the screw counterclockwise. +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks","Vinh, a couple of questions. I have been looking for CDI units and I am not sure but it looks like Yamaha calls it "" engine control unit assembly"", and besides that , where did you order yours? This one is 1033.00 msrp. Thanks for your help.","Vinh, a couple of questions. I have been looking for CDI units and I am not sure but it looks like Yamaha calls it "" engine control unit assembly"", and besides that , where did you order yours? This one is 1033.00 msrp. Thanks for your help.","Further to this, it's worth pointing out that the main photo +Shows the engine on a vertical frame. Outboard transoms are of course not vertical. So a related question should be 'is it OK for my engine to trim in to about 10 degrees off vertical when mounted on a vertical frame?" +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks","SnorkleBob, +I received my CDI unit and install it and it still the same. I have another of the same motor and good running and it hick_ups on start up until it gets warm up then it stops. I removed my temperature sensor and it looks a little dry after I run the motor. I swap the water temp sensor from the bad motor to the good motor and the good motor runs fine. So it's not the water temp sensor. I then check the thermostat and it's bad. I cooked it in a pot of boiling water and it stays shut. A new one is on order. There aren't many sensors on this motor. I am waiting after I replace the thermostat then I will take the next step if it continues to hick up. The issue is not the CDI unit. I don't want to go thru and swap out every sensor on this motor from my good motor but it looks like I might to go that route to find out what's wrong with it. The compression are good and I cleaned the carbs. I think this is a temperature related issue. So check your thermostat first. If the thermostat is bad the motor won't warm up and it will cause the engine to to run lean and therefore caused the back fire thru the intake (hick up). The guy I bought the motor from said he replaced the water pump. I will check it tomorrow to see if that is bad also.","SnorkleBob, +I received my CDI unit and install it and it still the same. I have another of the same motor and good running and it hick_ups on start up until it gets warm up then it stops. I removed my temperature sensor and it looks a little dry after I run the motor. I swap the water temp sensor from the bad motor to the good motor and the good motor runs fine. So it's not the water temp sensor. I then check the thermostat and it's bad. I cooked it in a pot of boiling water and it stays shut. A new one is on order. There aren't many sensors on this motor. I am waiting after I replace the thermostat then I will take the next step if it continues to hick up. The issue is not the CDI unit. I don't want to go thru and swap out every sensor on this motor from my good motor but it looks like I might to go that route to find out what's wrong with it. The compression are good and I cleaned the carbs. I think this is a temperature related issue. So check your thermostat first. If the thermostat is bad the motor won't warm up and it will cause the engine to to run lean and therefore caused the back fire thru the intake (hick up). The guy I bought the motor from said he replaced the water pump. I will check it tomorrow to see if that is bad also.","Agreed....as you well know, the 1970 20 and 25, still 2.5"" bore .......about top the list for highest hp to weight ratio. They weigh barely 80 pounds....maybe closer to 75. That's only 3 pounds per 1 hp.........WOW!......Still got several of these around here. Toss them on your shoulder and walk a half mile portage. I put a boat cushion between. It would take Arnold Schwarzenegger to shoulder a 25 4 stroke across......but he's a few years older than me too.... +The new Tohatsu 20 is only 97 pounds. Yamaha said they have a 125 pound 25 too. But most 25's now are 160 pounds." +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks",Today I want to rule out the carbs as the problem so I put the carbs from the bad motor into the good motor and it runs fine. Next I am going to check the fuel pump. If the fuel pump checks out OK then I think it's a mechanical issue and it's sticky intake valve. I am going to put it in the water and run the crap out of it to see it loosen up the valves. I've been doing a lot of reading online and surprisingly no one solved this problem on their motor. I am determine to get to the bottom of this. I let you know what I find.,Today I want to rule out the carbs as the problem so I put the carbs from the bad motor into the good motor and it runs fine. Next I am going to check the fuel pump. If the fuel pump checks out OK then I think it's a mechanical issue and it's sticky intake valve. I am going to put it in the water and run the crap out of it to see it loosen up the valves. I've been doing a lot of reading online and surprisingly no one solved this problem on their motor. I am determine to get to the bottom of this. I let you know what I find.,"ram95 said: + + + + If I put it in gear and quickly open the throttle while holding three fingers over the air intake it winds right up. If I don't put my fingers over the intake it falls on its nose and quits. + +Click to expand... + + +Citing your statement above...when you cover the air intake you richen the mix (more fuel, less air), and the motor responds. I'm not familiar with your carb, but I recon it should have a idle mix screw. This screw has a specific ""turn out"" spec. This spec is found in your service manual. + +With the engine off, turn in the screw gently until it seats. Note the number of turns. Let's say it took 1 full turn in to seat. Then turn out the screw 3/4. Start engine and see how it responds. The more you turn in the screw the more you richen the mix. Just like putting your hand over the intake, except more precise of course. Make your adjustments to the idle mix screw small, 1/4 turns at a time." +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks","Thanks for the info, it sure sounded like an electrical issue, with the 35 sec. hiccup at any RPM. This is really a tough nut to crack. My motor is fuel injected. I am thinking it may be a sensor that is on the ""fritz"". Eager to hear what you find. Good luck","Thanks for the info, it sure sounded like an electrical issue, with the 35 sec. hiccup at any RPM. This is really a tough nut to crack. My motor is fuel injected. I am thinking it may be a sensor that is on the ""fritz"". Eager to hear what you find. Good luck", +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks",I just removed the camshaft and check for the intake valves. They are all moving freely. My motor is a 2003 with carbs. I think it's a bad sensor. The manual shows an electrothermal valve for my motor that I could not find it. This electrothermal valve feeds to the CDI. I might have to cut up the shield for the harness to find out where it goes. I took the oil pressure sensor from my bad motor and put in my good motor and it runs fine. however I took a resistant measurements and they both have different measurements. I installed the oil pressure sensor from my running motor into the bad motor but I have not start the bad motor up yet. I am waiting for the thermostat to come back and check it again to see if that's the problem.,I just removed the camshaft and check for the intake valves. They are all moving freely. My motor is a 2003 with carbs. I think it's a bad sensor. The manual shows an electrothermal valve for my motor that I could not find it. This electrothermal valve feeds to the CDI. I might have to cut up the shield for the harness to find out where it goes. I took the oil pressure sensor from my bad motor and put in my good motor and it runs fine. however I took a resistant measurements and they both have different measurements. I installed the oil pressure sensor from my running motor into the bad motor but I have not start the bad motor up yet. I am waiting for the thermostat to come back and check it again to see if that's the problem.,Synchronize your throttle valves they should all be closed at idle and your TPS volts should be between 0.48 to 0.52 when you have done this adjust the oil pump arm linkage at idle the arm should touch the stopper . on this model you will take a chance if you bleed it running it on a premixed as the oil pump feeds the vst tank and the manifold onto the cylinders .at idle disconnect the throttle oil pump link arm then move the oi pump arm by hand to its fully open position while at idle to bleed it +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks",I removed all my carbs and clean them up. In the process I found out that one of the back end of one of the Jet was broken. I talked to a yamaha tech and he said that will definitely cause this hick up. That broken jet will caused too much fuel spool up at the base of that Jet and the carb can't suck up all that fuel. Therefore that one cylinder is running lean and it will hick up. For your motor since it is an EFI and I've seen a lot of people had problems with clogged injectors. I suggest you to first clean your injectors first and see how it runs. After I replace the broken jet I will have the dealer resynch my carbs too and see how it runs. I will let you know the result.,I removed all my carbs and clean them up. In the process I found out that one of the back end of one of the Jet was broken. I talked to a yamaha tech and he said that will definitely cause this hick up. That broken jet will caused too much fuel spool up at the base of that Jet and the carb can't suck up all that fuel. Therefore that one cylinder is running lean and it will hick up. For your motor since it is an EFI and I've seen a lot of people had problems with clogged injectors. I suggest you to first clean your injectors first and see how it runs. After I replace the broken jet I will have the dealer resynch my carbs too and see how it runs. I will let you know the result.,The leak that happens intermittently is what drains the engine mounted oil tank. I can’t catch it. I can use the boat sometimes and there is no oil leak. Then other times the engine oil tank is drained down and there is oil everywhere in the compartment and transom. It’s not coming from the cap or the connection at the bottom of the tank +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks","Thanks for the update, nice detective work. I was at Costco today and bought a bunch of injector cleaner. First thing I will do is dump several bottles into the gas and run it. Hope this cures your problem .","Thanks for the update, nice detective work. I was at Costco today and bought a bunch of injector cleaner. First thing I will do is dump several bottles into the gas and run it. Hope this cures your problem .","Moonshiner said: + + + + Yes the bulb gets hard but after it sets for a while it does loose its firmness. It seems like has to be in the fuel system because it runs and idles to good. But here again im no mechanic. + +Click to expand... + + +After the bulb gets hard, if you keep constant pressure on it does it stay hard or does it slowly collapse?" +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks",I replaced the broken Jet in Carb #4 and it ran perfect now. I didn't even need the resynch the carbs either. Good luck.,I replaced the broken Jet in Carb #4 and it ran perfect now. I didn't even need the resynch the carbs either. Good luck.,"Find a certified marine surveyor in your area, or contact your insurance company and see who they use in your area." +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks","Congrats! A long hunt but I'll bet you learned a ton. I am waiting for my diagnostic software to arrive in a couple of weeks, than down to Baja in October to find and fix the hiccup. Wish me luck. I'll report than.","Congrats! A long hunt but I'll bet you learned a ton. I am waiting for my diagnostic software to arrive in a couple of weeks, than down to Baja in October to find and fix the hiccup. Wish me luck. I'll report than.","Thanks again and I have no luck with lottery’s of any kind �� So I will give you a brief history of what I’ve been going through. Bought this 12 foot aluminum boat with this 9.9 mariner A couple of months ago. The boat had set outside for about eight years covered. Did the proper maintenance on it before I took it out and the boat ran wonderful for a few trips which equaled to about 10 hours. Then out of the blue it completely stopped, brought it home did some research cross the part numbers and replaced the CDI. Took it to the lake started up ran for a while then stopped again brought it home it started right up once it warmed up it shut off so then I replaced the ignition coils thinking that when it got hot and shut off it was ignition coils replaced ignition coil. So after that started it up ran wonderful longer than it ever has since this has gone on shut it off went to start it again nothing, took apart the Killswitch and inspected that everything looks good put it back together still nothing so now this is why I bought the DVA to test stater and trigger and/or pulser coil . I’ve done automotive mechanics most of my life and I am fairly good at troubleshooting with the right information this has really tested my patience. Thought I had a guy that was going to help me but sold me an 18 hp Evinrude, said it would at least get me on the water for now until I get my other motor fixed but it died on me the same day I bought it so I rebuilt the carb got it running good to find out it slips in gear and is taking on water in the lower unit I have already had enough of these two-stroke motors LOL but I do love the 9.9 it seems to be better and more powerful than the 18 hp Evinrude just want to get back on the water found something I really enjoy but it’s really starting to piss me off LOL" +"The boat sat outside in a tropical storm, up to 50 mph winds. When the weather cleared I ran the boat and the engine hiccups, not sure if it is a miss. Tried to dry every thing out and found no water under the hood, though I think there must have been some. Ran it again today and the same 35 second hiccup no mater the rpm. Anyone ever heard of a problem like this? + thanks","Yup. Expensive lesson $400 for the CDI unit. Now I have a spare CDI unit lol. Majority of the running issues are related to fuel problem. So install as many fuel filter as you can before it gets to the motor. I have a clear filter after the fuel/water separator. Any foreign particle gets thru the separator I can see right the way, including water. Good luck.","Yup. Expensive lesson $400 for the CDI unit. Now I have a spare CDI unit lol. Majority of the running issues are related to fuel problem. So install as many fuel filter as you can before it gets to the motor. I have a clear filter after the fuel/water separator. Any foreign particle gets thru the separator I can see right the way, including water. Good luck.","oldman570 said: + + + + You can saw a split down a wooden dowel rod and slide sand paper into the slit and wrap it so it is just lose in the tilt tube and use a drill to clean the tube. Use marine grade grease and replace the steering cable in the tube. Replacing the seals should also be done . +Oldman570 + +Click to expand... + + +I've done a few things along those lines, replacing the seals and packing in marine grease to keep the nasty stuff out. Cheers." +"93 115tlrr had it out running yesterday. Boat was up on plane without issue. Jumped off of plane to mess with my gps and when I went to speed back up motor would not go past 1900-2100rpm. If i tried to advance the throttle beyond that range, the motor will bog and die. + + +This issue is only when the boat is in forward. I ran it up to 4k in reverse just to see if it could do it, up to 5k in neutral with fast idle. + + + + +To me this says that I've got fuel, I've got spark and I've got compression. What I don't have is a clue what to look at to fix the issue.","Just in case anyone comes across this and has a similar issue here's how I fixed my problem.... + +Took apart remote control (yamaha 703) and found that a the bushing attached to my throttle control lever had slipped off. I loosened my friction tension screw and put the bushing back in place. I then readjusted the friction tension to a desirable level. + +I inspected the motor and found that my timing advance screw had backed off (should see some type of torque stripe where the screw threads into the mag lever) so I tightened that back into it's proper position. + +It seems that a combination of these things was allowing my fuel flow to increase without advancing my spark and flooding the engine with a quickness. + + +These two fixes now have that old 93 idling smooth with a throttle response that is amazing. In the 1 1/2 years I've owned the boat it has never behaved this well or jumped on plane this easily.","Just in case anyone comes across this and has a similar issue here's how I fixed my problem.... + +Took apart remote control (yamaha 703) and found that a the bushing attached to my throttle control lever had slipped off. I loosened my friction tension screw and put the bushing back in place. I then readjusted the friction tension to a desirable level. + +I inspected the motor and found that my timing advance screw had backed off (should see some type of torque stripe where the screw threads into the mag lever) so I tightened that back into it's proper position. + +It seems that a combination of these things was allowing my fuel flow to increase without advancing my spark and flooding the engine with a quickness. + + +These two fixes now have that old 93 idling smooth with a throttle response that is amazing. In the 1 1/2 years I've owned the boat it has never behaved this well or jumped on plane this easily.","Using latex house paint in your boat? latex paint can easily come off with water, though it tends to dry faster. Anyway, my point is, don't use latex for your boat. + + +davewilliams of House Painters in Indianapolis" +I'm trying to diagnose a problem that is frustrating me. I've looked at the other posts on this and it's not quite the same as mine so sheer it is. The engine reservoir is not refilling from the secondary reservoir. Seems like a pump or line clog. Checking the pump and passing the wiring to it gets it to in but doesn't seem to pump any oil. The emergency switch to fill the reservoir doesn't activate the pump at all. Continuity in the line from the engine to the oil pump reservoir but doesn't seem to have any power to the cable in the first place. Doesn't send any signal at ignition on not running or running. The engine resevoir is down to the low mark and alarm is on. Float switch in engine resevoir has been replaced. Might be a clogged line but why no power and why isn't the pump running? Taking the boat resevoir tank out today to checked or sludge and or kinks. What else?,I have a different problem but will try and help. Take this all with a GRAIN OF SALT. I would test pump by itself by taking 12vdc directly to pump. On my boat I would disconnect plug by boat resevuior and take 12 to brown + and blue - wires. If pump runs I would disconnect the oil line to see if there is flow. I believe there may be sevral splice points in the oil line to disconnect to view oil flow. No flow clogged line or filter or bad pump. Yes oil flow - check 12vdc at plug- yes 12vdc at plug (which I think is designed to be there at all times) check ground. I believe the ground is what starts and stops the pump. From what I read the most likely problem is the main float switch in the motor oil resevuior. This float has 3 internal switches. Top shuts off pump. It may be stuck in the top position. Middle starts pump to fill to top. Bottom gives alarms and reduces RPM's. Buy a manual and start reading.,I have a different problem but will try and help. Take this all with a GRAIN OF SALT. I would test pump by itself by taking 12vdc directly to pump. On my boat I would disconnect plug by boat resevuior and take 12 to brown + and blue - wires. If pump runs I would disconnect the oil line to see if there is flow. I believe there may be sevral splice points in the oil line to disconnect to view oil flow. No flow clogged line or filter or bad pump. Yes oil flow - check 12vdc at plug- yes 12vdc at plug (which I think is designed to be there at all times) check ground. I believe the ground is what starts and stops the pump. From what I read the most likely problem is the main float switch in the motor oil resevuior. This float has 3 internal switches. Top shuts off pump. It may be stuck in the top position. Middle starts pump to fill to top. Bottom gives alarms and reduces RPM's. Buy a manual and start reading.,"For the tape, I'd go to 3M...there tech support group is excellent. + +FWIW, and I'd ask the 3M rep too - you might have to ""shim"" the floor to get a more uniform gap before the tape will span the gap...if necessary, I'd use some epoxy with a reinforcing filler and let gravity give you a uniform plane to seal against." +I'm trying to diagnose a problem that is frustrating me. I've looked at the other posts on this and it's not quite the same as mine so sheer it is. The engine reservoir is not refilling from the secondary reservoir. Seems like a pump or line clog. Checking the pump and passing the wiring to it gets it to in but doesn't seem to pump any oil. The emergency switch to fill the reservoir doesn't activate the pump at all. Continuity in the line from the engine to the oil pump reservoir but doesn't seem to have any power to the cable in the first place. Doesn't send any signal at ignition on not running or running. The engine resevoir is down to the low mark and alarm is on. Float switch in engine resevoir has been replaced. Might be a clogged line but why no power and why isn't the pump running? Taking the boat resevoir tank out today to checked or sludge and or kinks. What else?,There is a seperate wiring loom from the engine to the tank. It is very long and some installers cut and join them to make them shorter. Check that you don't have a bad joint in that loom hiding some where.,There is a seperate wiring loom from the engine to the tank. It is very long and some installers cut and join them to make them shorter. Check that you don't have a bad joint in that loom hiding some where.,"Ayuh,.... The only way to know for Sure, is to follow the fuel lines to the tank, 'n Look,..." +I'm trying to diagnose a problem that is frustrating me. I've looked at the other posts on this and it's not quite the same as mine so sheer it is. The engine reservoir is not refilling from the secondary reservoir. Seems like a pump or line clog. Checking the pump and passing the wiring to it gets it to in but doesn't seem to pump any oil. The emergency switch to fill the reservoir doesn't activate the pump at all. Continuity in the line from the engine to the oil pump reservoir but doesn't seem to have any power to the cable in the first place. Doesn't send any signal at ignition on not running or running. The engine resevoir is down to the low mark and alarm is on. Float switch in engine resevoir has been replaced. Might be a clogged line but why no power and why isn't the pump running? Taking the boat resevoir tank out today to checked or sludge and or kinks. What else?,"Thanks everyone. I replaced the engine resevoir float switch. No change. Couldnt get the emergency switch to activate the pump at all. Checked continuity of the wires to the boat resevoir and pump. Continuity where it should be. No 12 v to the pump however. Tested the pump by jumping it to 12 v and found that it ran but didnt pump. Replaced the resevoiur, pump, lines and filter. Reatached all and used the new cable that came with the new unit (was less expensive to buy the whole assembly rather than chase and buy individual parts.) Still cold not eare pump run. After installing and using primer bulb, the main tank on the engine did refill to about half. Still have not heard the pump run. Stillde not run when the emergency swtch is activated.","Thanks everyone. I replaced the engine resevoir float switch. No change. Couldnt get the emergency switch to activate the pump at all. Checked continuity of the wires to the boat resevoir and pump. Continuity where it should be. No 12 v to the pump however. Tested the pump by jumping it to 12 v and found that it ran but didnt pump. Replaced the resevoiur, pump, lines and filter. Reatached all and used the new cable that came with the new unit (was less expensive to buy the whole assembly rather than chase and buy individual parts.) Still cold not eare pump run. After installing and using primer bulb, the main tank on the engine did refill to about half. Still have not heard the pump run. Stillde not run when the emergency swtch is activated.","yes the only way I can just get the brakes/blinkers to function is the 7way traidtionale. + +there are a few things since initial 7pin trailer end plug was installed. first I restripped the wires exposeing 2"" of bare wire then I did the haywire twist around the securing bolt then add the squared washer I certainly have a secure electrical conncetion. + +been getting conflicting infor about trailer end pin # 1 O'clock position power I'm not sure if I don't need power on this pin I think I don't because there's nothing on the trailers end to power or am I missing something here? + +I don't have power on pin #1 O'clock position car end. + +each tail lights grounds come from trailer end pin # 7 O'clock I added a extra ground from the trailers frame the taillights will hopefully function will the extra ground interfer w/ the pin #7 O'clock connection + +I wasted way to much time on this so if the improvements don't resolve the no tail lights I procedeed to plan B +glue red LED stripes on stern wired direct to boats battery. + +thanks for link stuff appears differnt on bing compared to google. STB" +I'm trying to diagnose a problem that is frustrating me. I've looked at the other posts on this and it's not quite the same as mine so sheer it is. The engine reservoir is not refilling from the secondary reservoir. Seems like a pump or line clog. Checking the pump and passing the wiring to it gets it to in but doesn't seem to pump any oil. The emergency switch to fill the reservoir doesn't activate the pump at all. Continuity in the line from the engine to the oil pump reservoir but doesn't seem to have any power to the cable in the first place. Doesn't send any signal at ignition on not running or running. The engine resevoir is down to the low mark and alarm is on. Float switch in engine resevoir has been replaced. Might be a clogged line but why no power and why isn't the pump running? Taking the boat resevoir tank out today to checked or sludge and or kinks. What else?,A few things to check. I believe you can check the emergency fill switch from the harness. It should open and close as its activated. I think it will be open at rest and closed when activated. If this switch is not working you may need to replace the oil control unit. This unit is not serviceable on my motor. With key to ACC I would think you should have 12vdc at pump if you don't find out where the 12 should be coming from. Check the 12vdc positive from the harness but put your meter negative on battery negative when checking. Buy a repair manual. Could be a harness issue. You can also empty the motor oil tank and manually activate each switch on the float switch and follow the continuity from each switch. I believe the bottom two float switch wires are grounded to start pump. I would like to know how the top float switch closing stops the pump? Buy a repair manual.,A few things to check. I believe you can check the emergency fill switch from the harness. It should open and close as its activated. I think it will be open at rest and closed when activated. If this switch is not working you may need to replace the oil control unit. This unit is not serviceable on my motor. With key to ACC I would think you should have 12vdc at pump if you don't find out where the 12 should be coming from. Check the 12vdc positive from the harness but put your meter negative on battery negative when checking. Buy a repair manual. Could be a harness issue. You can also empty the motor oil tank and manually activate each switch on the float switch and follow the continuity from each switch. I believe the bottom two float switch wires are grounded to start pump. I would like to know how the top float switch closing stops the pump? Buy a repair manual.,"Nothing to fix,thats normal,motor designed to be run in the water." +I'm trying to diagnose a problem that is frustrating me. I've looked at the other posts on this and it's not quite the same as mine so sheer it is. The engine reservoir is not refilling from the secondary reservoir. Seems like a pump or line clog. Checking the pump and passing the wiring to it gets it to in but doesn't seem to pump any oil. The emergency switch to fill the reservoir doesn't activate the pump at all. Continuity in the line from the engine to the oil pump reservoir but doesn't seem to have any power to the cable in the first place. Doesn't send any signal at ignition on not running or running. The engine resevoir is down to the low mark and alarm is on. Float switch in engine resevoir has been replaced. Might be a clogged line but why no power and why isn't the pump running? Taking the boat resevoir tank out today to checked or sludge and or kinks. What else?,Bought the manual. Thanks all,Bought the manual. Thanks all,"Actually the pulse generator is still available, and is about $400. Time to start thinking about moving on, however, a new D8LC will be upwards of $4000 on the internet. $ 5000 from us. I cannot say for sure which component it is, but I would guess at C1 which looks like a relay-the red cube, but I just don't know for sure. Try the magnet aginst the red cube." +will a yamma 15hp coil fit 28hp yamma both are about the same age 1986 i got a scraped 15hp and some one i know has the 28hp for sale with one coil failed on it.,both 2 stroke btw.,both 2 stroke btw.,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + If there is spark, yes you can rule out the kill switch. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks I appreciate your help! + +Frank" +"We have a 2010 VF225LA. Less than 200 hours. Purchased used on a Premier 25 pontoon in August last year and used about 50 hours by us without any issues. When it went into the water this year it started fine. But when marina restarted, it wouldn't start. Water in oil pan. Cleaned out, tried again and hydrolocked again. Eventually Yamaha dealer took it apart to find power head was cracked and needed to be replaced. And, said that there was so much corrosion in the cylinders that he could not in good conscience fix just the power head as we would have major problems within the year relating to the corrosion. All in, just over $21,000 to repair. And given that we could get a new motor for not that much more than that, they recommended not repairing. Warranty expired March 2014. + + +None of the dealers that we have spoken to have ever heard of a powerhead cracking like this. Has anyone ever heard of this? And any thoughts on corrosion? I have heard that early versions of this engine 2002-2005 had this issue. Trying to decide whether we repair engine or junk it. So far Yamaha's response has been that we are out of luck. That problems such as this are normally caused by inadequate warm up procedures. Which seems odd given how few hours the engine has. + + +Boat in on Georgian Bay, so fresh water, and used only in spring/summer months. + + +Any help/thoughts much appreciated. + +David",Tried---Gordan Bay Marine --------in Mactier ???,Tried---Gordan Bay Marine --------in Mactier ???,"Hi. + +It depends on how well the muffs are able to seal up against the water inlet. After you start it, just rev it up a little bit (around 900-1000 rpms). If the stream is stiff/strong at that point, then I would say it's just the muffs not sealing properly. I've gone through many pairs of muffs for this very reason. + +If the stream isn't strong when you fast-idle it, then I would have the impeller looked at." +"We have a 2010 VF225LA. Less than 200 hours. Purchased used on a Premier 25 pontoon in August last year and used about 50 hours by us without any issues. When it went into the water this year it started fine. But when marina restarted, it wouldn't start. Water in oil pan. Cleaned out, tried again and hydrolocked again. Eventually Yamaha dealer took it apart to find power head was cracked and needed to be replaced. And, said that there was so much corrosion in the cylinders that he could not in good conscience fix just the power head as we would have major problems within the year relating to the corrosion. All in, just over $21,000 to repair. And given that we could get a new motor for not that much more than that, they recommended not repairing. Warranty expired March 2014. + + +None of the dealers that we have spoken to have ever heard of a powerhead cracking like this. Has anyone ever heard of this? And any thoughts on corrosion? I have heard that early versions of this engine 2002-2005 had this issue. Trying to decide whether we repair engine or junk it. So far Yamaha's response has been that we are out of luck. That problems such as this are normally caused by inadequate warm up procedures. Which seems odd given how few hours the engine has. + + +Boat in on Georgian Bay, so fresh water, and used only in spring/summer months. + + +Any help/thoughts much appreciated. + +David",Thanks. They are the dealer that diagnosed the problem and recommended buying a new engine.,Thanks. They are the dealer that diagnosed the problem and recommended buying a new engine.,"I know that this is a very old post, but wondering if you ever solved this issue?" +"We have a 2010 VF225LA. Less than 200 hours. Purchased used on a Premier 25 pontoon in August last year and used about 50 hours by us without any issues. When it went into the water this year it started fine. But when marina restarted, it wouldn't start. Water in oil pan. Cleaned out, tried again and hydrolocked again. Eventually Yamaha dealer took it apart to find power head was cracked and needed to be replaced. And, said that there was so much corrosion in the cylinders that he could not in good conscience fix just the power head as we would have major problems within the year relating to the corrosion. All in, just over $21,000 to repair. And given that we could get a new motor for not that much more than that, they recommended not repairing. Warranty expired March 2014. + + +None of the dealers that we have spoken to have ever heard of a powerhead cracking like this. Has anyone ever heard of this? And any thoughts on corrosion? I have heard that early versions of this engine 2002-2005 had this issue. Trying to decide whether we repair engine or junk it. So far Yamaha's response has been that we are out of luck. That problems such as this are normally caused by inadequate warm up procedures. Which seems odd given how few hours the engine has. + + +Boat in on Georgian Bay, so fresh water, and used only in spring/summer months. + + +Any help/thoughts much appreciated. + +David","A few comments - selling you a new engine is how the dealer makes maximum profit from your business. Risk free since Yamaha pick up the warranty and ties up his staff for minimal time. Doesn't mean that what they are saying is wrong, just that they have a pretty good incentive to quote a new engine as the best solution. +When you talk about a cracked powerhead, is that a cracked head or a cracked block? I assume that it is a cracked head(?) and the corrosion in the cylinders is from water getting into them. If so, how many cylinders are affected by corrosion? +If it is a cracked head, is it just one head or both? My first choice if it is one cracked head would be to pull down the engine, get the corroded bores honed, fit new rings in those ones, and reassemble. Still costs a few $000's due to a new head being required, but a fraction of what you are otherwise looking at. During the teardown you can inspect the crank and bearings etc for and damage so you can know if there is any 'subsequent' damage before committing to buying the new parts. Takes about 4 man hours to remove the powerhead and break it down to check.","A few comments - selling you a new engine is how the dealer makes maximum profit from your business. Risk free since Yamaha pick up the warranty and ties up his staff for minimal time. Doesn't mean that what they are saying is wrong, just that they have a pretty good incentive to quote a new engine as the best solution. +When you talk about a cracked powerhead, is that a cracked head or a cracked block? I assume that it is a cracked head(?) and the corrosion in the cylinders is from water getting into them. If so, how many cylinders are affected by corrosion? +If it is a cracked head, is it just one head or both? My first choice if it is one cracked head would be to pull down the engine, get the corroded bores honed, fit new rings in those ones, and reassemble. Still costs a few $000's due to a new head being required, but a fraction of what you are otherwise looking at. During the teardown you can inspect the crank and bearings etc for and damage so you can know if there is any 'subsequent' damage before committing to buying the new parts. Takes about 4 man hours to remove the powerhead and break it down to check.","Ayuh,.... Does the aft end of the cable go through the motor's tilt tube,..?? + +If so, that's no doubt where it's seized... + +Take whatever hardware there is off the end, 'n the big nut off the other side,... +Then Beat it out..." +Looking for used 70hp Betol carburetors to upgrade my 50hp Getol for more punch. Both 50 and 70 use the same 849cc engine block. Any ideas what might be the sources to locate the 70hp carburetors?,Everything I have found shows the 50 as a 43 cid block and the 70 as a 52 cube block not the same,Everything I have found shows the 50 as a 43 cid block and the 70 as a 52 cube block not the same,"The above is a method found in a book from the "" Goudgeon Brothers "" --------------Recognized for their expertise in "" West system epoxy "" and building / repair of wooden and fiberglass boats.---------------Anyone attempting to do major fiberglass boat repair ( structural and cosmetic ) should get a copy. -----------Do the job right the first time." +Looking for used 70hp Betol carburetors to upgrade my 50hp Getol for more punch. Both 50 and 70 use the same 849cc engine block. Any ideas what might be the sources to locate the 70hp carburetors?,"Thanks for Flyingscott for his reply. My idea about upgrading to 70hp is no more valid. I got my new boat, aluminium body with glassfiber interior: http://www.yamarin.fi/en/Boat/53-Bow-Rider/ProductId/46. It has now my 2004 Yamaha 50hp 2-stroke installed. It took 3 heavy adults (app. 310kg of raw human meat) easily to surf. 20,3 knots with 3900 rpm, 26 knots with 4600rpm. Max rews were 4900 with one person. The propeller was the ""standard"" factory installed G-propeller (13"" pitch, 11-1/8 diameter). I am totally impressed about the performance of Yamaha 50hp 2-stroke! I do not need more punch after all. Typical load is 2 adults with week-end gear and the engine is fine for that. I do have a Yamaha spare propeller 10-5/9 x 12"" which would rise the max rews to 5000+ but now with ""standard"" propeller the marching speed of 20 knots is achieved with a non-stressing and easygoing 3900rpm. + + +Why am I so keen on this 2-stroke Yamaha? My summer camp and the boating area is quite far from service facilities. It is called Finland lake district. With a 4-stroke I should take the boat every autumn to service and back. Takes time and effort and money. On the other hand I can do the extremely simple service operations to my 2-stroke Yamaha by my self. As I have done for some 40+ years with my 2-strokes. The Yamaha gets only 30 hours to the clock per season. With today's modern 2-stroke ""green"" oils I can still live without feeling like an environmental criminal. + + +After all these positive words for my 2-stroke I must confess that 4-strokes and direct injection 2-strokes (like e-tec and Orbital based Mercury and Tohatsu engines) are technically superior engineering products when compared to my oldish Yamaha 50hp Getol. But my fool-proof 2004 2-stroke 50hp is like an old friend with an ever pleasing outstanding torque. + + +Ps. These things, on top of ordinary service, have given me trouble-free outboard motoring: uncompromized petrol/gasoline hygiene; keep it clean! I use alkylate petrol in the last run of the season so that the whole gasoline system is full of that during the winter months. Fill up the gasoline tank with fresh gasoline when the new season begins. I never use E10 gasoline, I use gasoline with max. 5% of alcohol. I do not use gasoline preservatives (no harm done if you use). I do not insist that this is the whole truth, but my engines run and start flawlesly every spring after 5 months winter rest.","Thanks for Flyingscott for his reply. My idea about upgrading to 70hp is no more valid. I got my new boat, aluminium body with glassfiber interior: http://www.yamarin.fi/en/Boat/53-Bow-Rider/ProductId/46. It has now my 2004 Yamaha 50hp 2-stroke installed. It took 3 heavy adults (app. 310kg of raw human meat) easily to surf. 20,3 knots with 3900 rpm, 26 knots with 4600rpm. Max rews were 4900 with one person. The propeller was the ""standard"" factory installed G-propeller (13"" pitch, 11-1/8 diameter). I am totally impressed about the performance of Yamaha 50hp 2-stroke! I do not need more punch after all. Typical load is 2 adults with week-end gear and the engine is fine for that. I do have a Yamaha spare propeller 10-5/9 x 12"" which would rise the max rews to 5000+ but now with ""standard"" propeller the marching speed of 20 knots is achieved with a non-stressing and easygoing 3900rpm. + + +Why am I so keen on this 2-stroke Yamaha? My summer camp and the boating area is quite far from service facilities. It is called Finland lake district. With a 4-stroke I should take the boat every autumn to service and back. Takes time and effort and money. On the other hand I can do the extremely simple service operations to my 2-stroke Yamaha by my self. As I have done for some 40+ years with my 2-strokes. The Yamaha gets only 30 hours to the clock per season. With today's modern 2-stroke ""green"" oils I can still live without feeling like an environmental criminal. + + +After all these positive words for my 2-stroke I must confess that 4-strokes and direct injection 2-strokes (like e-tec and Orbital based Mercury and Tohatsu engines) are technically superior engineering products when compared to my oldish Yamaha 50hp Getol. But my fool-proof 2004 2-stroke 50hp is like an old friend with an ever pleasing outstanding torque. + + +Ps. These things, on top of ordinary service, have given me trouble-free outboard motoring: uncompromized petrol/gasoline hygiene; keep it clean! I use alkylate petrol in the last run of the season so that the whole gasoline system is full of that during the winter months. Fill up the gasoline tank with fresh gasoline when the new season begins. I never use E10 gasoline, I use gasoline with max. 5% of alcohol. I do not use gasoline preservatives (no harm done if you use). I do not insist that this is the whole truth, but my engines run and start flawlesly every spring after 5 months winter rest.","Rick - Okay on the windlass wire - I think it is actually larger. It's a Horizon 600 and the spec sheet specifies 8 gauge. I matched the wires coming out of the windless, so that should be okay. I thought they were 10 gauge. + +What I did was run a heavy duty highly insulated dual cable (battery cable) from my battery switch to a bus behind the console, then pulled power and ground off of that buss for power to VHF, GPS-MAP, depthfinder, windlass, lights, horn, spot light. etc, etc. Each of those is wired through a fuse panel using auto-type spade fuses. The only thing I used the accessory terminal on the key switch for was the lights on the gauges. This sounds similar to what you are recommending for Jay. + + +I have not had any problems with the pre-applied shrink wrap connectors, at least as yet. I think either method works." +Looking for used 70hp Betol carburetors to upgrade my 50hp Getol for more punch. Both 50 and 70 use the same 849cc engine block. Any ideas what might be the sources to locate the 70hp carburetors?,I agree I have a 1993 50 hp yamaha wonderful motor. I was just saying i dont think it will be that easy to get another 20 hp out of that block with just carbs and the 50 and the 70 in america are very different motors,I agree I have a 1993 50 hp yamaha wonderful motor. I was just saying i dont think it will be that easy to get another 20 hp out of that block with just carbs and the 50 and the 70 in america are very different motors,"Finally - Carbs installed. Fresh gas. With fingers crossed, went to start engine submerged in 1/2 of 50 gal drum. First noticed that primer bulb now gets hard to where it can't be pumped any more. It has NEVER done that before and I always wondered why. Cranked her up and was pleasantly surprised. Started right up. Idles faster than before. VERY responsive when punching throttle. Can't wait to get her on the water. But before that I need some help with tuning. + +When I worked carbs, I set idle mix screws to same amount of turns as they were when I took carbs off. Read that to tune them just turn them for fastest idle. I turned two of them and could not detect any difference by listening to idle. Is this important? If so, how do I adjust them? +Thanks much!" +Looking for used 70hp Betol carburetors to upgrade my 50hp Getol for more punch. Both 50 and 70 use the same 849cc engine block. Any ideas what might be the sources to locate the 70hp carburetors?,"Yep. I would not have been capable to do to upgrade. I got anyhow tempted to that idea as a skilfull person lives here quite near to me. He has tuned Yamaha ouboard motors with which European championships have been won in motorboating. He asked me if I would like to get 110hp out of the machine. But he admitted quickly that the humble nature of the factory machine in every day use would suffer. This guy would have done the upgrade. But now I do not need to do it at all. + +in Finland (all over Europe?) 2-stroke 50, 60 and 70hp were based on the same 849cc block. This was the case at least from 1990s onwards. The 50hp engine was sort of ""squeezed"" from the more powerful models. According to my tuning spe******t, upgrade needs 70hp model's ""big-throat"" carburetors. Sounds like simple task to someone who knows how to do it. But as said, the project is cancelled before it even got started. The standard 849cc big-block 50hp serves in my new boat really well without any tuning.","Yep. I would not have been capable to do to upgrade. I got anyhow tempted to that idea as a skilfull person lives here quite near to me. He has tuned Yamaha ouboard motors with which European championships have been won in motorboating. He asked me if I would like to get 110hp out of the machine. But he admitted quickly that the humble nature of the factory machine in every day use would suffer. This guy would have done the upgrade. But now I do not need to do it at all. + +in Finland (all over Europe?) 2-stroke 50, 60 and 70hp were based on the same 849cc block. This was the case at least from 1990s onwards. The 50hp engine was sort of ""squeezed"" from the more powerful models. According to my tuning spe******t, upgrade needs 70hp model's ""big-throat"" carburetors. Sounds like simple task to someone who knows how to do it. But as said, the project is cancelled before it even got started. The standard 849cc big-block 50hp serves in my new boat really well without any tuning.",This is the Yamaha way. I have no idea what brand tachometer or trim meter you have. +anyone have a quick fix for stuck shuttle valve? trim and tilt seems to be in by pass mode all the time.,"solved problem for anyone who is interested , took engine off and removed shuttle valve and replaced works great.","solved problem for anyone who is interested , took engine off and removed shuttle valve and replaced works great.","Ok, re-set it... seems to be ok, maybe wasn't fully set, splash test tomorrow after work. 2 year restoration project w this whaleR, for $500, boat, motor, and trailer, even my wife said buy it." +"2009 Century with a 2009 Yamaha 225hp with 250hrs well and always maintained. + +Recently 30 miles out I found some carbon shooting out at start up. Initially I assumed the bottom end is leaking and fought it was oil. +Right after return I checked the boat in with the local marina. +The Yamaha Mech / Marina called me and was fair enough to tell me that my engine / bottom end is in no need for repair that the ""oil leak"" is only carbon. All that was needed was some ""treat mix"" in the fuel. So far so good and very fair. + +Unitil now....I just got my bill $ 445.00 the invoice states: + +- Seatrial (only happened at start up so no driving necessary, just start the engine) +- Check Spark Plugs +- Call Yamaha +- Add Treatmix to fuel +- Seatrial + +Before I call and complain I would greatly appreciate your guys input. Is this invoice reasonable ? IMHO that should not take more then an hour...am I wrong here ? + +Thank you for your opinion.",what does he call a sea trial?running in tank or putting it in at a landing and running it?,what does he call a sea trial?running in tank or putting it in at a landing and running it?,"bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,.... Dumb idea,.... Once you remove all the paint, 'n polish the hull, which ya oughta be able to get done in a month of solid labor,.... + +The hull will start to corrode as Soon as yer done,... +Within a couple of months, it'll be back to the dull aluminum look,.... +Aluminum will NOT stay polished,... it starts to oxidize, Instantly, as soon as ya stop polishin',.... + +A Better idea, would be to scuff up the paint that's there, 'n repaint it, any color ya want,..... + +Click to expand... + + + + +So so what do you recommend to get rid of the paint are these things any good + +http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=350999365453" +"2009 Century with a 2009 Yamaha 225hp with 250hrs well and always maintained. + +Recently 30 miles out I found some carbon shooting out at start up. Initially I assumed the bottom end is leaking and fought it was oil. +Right after return I checked the boat in with the local marina. +The Yamaha Mech / Marina called me and was fair enough to tell me that my engine / bottom end is in no need for repair that the ""oil leak"" is only carbon. All that was needed was some ""treat mix"" in the fuel. So far so good and very fair. + +Unitil now....I just got my bill $ 445.00 the invoice states: + +- Seatrial (only happened at start up so no driving necessary, just start the engine) +- Check Spark Plugs +- Call Yamaha +- Add Treatmix to fuel +- Seatrial + +Before I call and complain I would greatly appreciate your guys input. Is this invoice reasonable ? IMHO that should not take more then an hour...am I wrong here ? + +Thank you for your opinion.","I assume that the Treatmix is Yamaha's Ring Free treatment. Seems funny to need that on a 2009, 250hr engine, but certainly not a bad thing to do. If the mechanic did a sea trial, a proper check of your engine and gearbox, added Ring Free, and another sea trial I would be happy that is around 3 hours work assuming the boat is on the water or in a dry stack for easy launching. Looks like you may have been charged 4 hours and the Ring Free cost. Did they have to trailer the boat to the water?","I assume that the Treatmix is Yamaha's Ring Free treatment. Seems funny to need that on a 2009, 250hr engine, but certainly not a bad thing to do. If the mechanic did a sea trial, a proper check of your engine and gearbox, added Ring Free, and another sea trial I would be happy that is around 3 hours work assuming the boat is on the water or in a dry stack for easy launching. Looks like you may have been charged 4 hours and the Ring Free cost. Did they have to trailer the boat to the water?","What is wrong with the single lever control you have now? +If it works , just put new cables in it. Cables don't last forever . +Straight up on this page it says ""Boat Accessories"" with a blue flag by it, +put your mouse pointer on that and a list will pop down, click on ""STEERING AND CONTROLS"" +Lots of parts there." +"2009 Century with a 2009 Yamaha 225hp with 250hrs well and always maintained. + +Recently 30 miles out I found some carbon shooting out at start up. Initially I assumed the bottom end is leaking and fought it was oil. +Right after return I checked the boat in with the local marina. +The Yamaha Mech / Marina called me and was fair enough to tell me that my engine / bottom end is in no need for repair that the ""oil leak"" is only carbon. All that was needed was some ""treat mix"" in the fuel. So far so good and very fair. + +Unitil now....I just got my bill $ 445.00 the invoice states: + +- Seatrial (only happened at start up so no driving necessary, just start the engine) +- Check Spark Plugs +- Call Yamaha +- Add Treatmix to fuel +- Seatrial + +Before I call and complain I would greatly appreciate your guys input. Is this invoice reasonable ? IMHO that should not take more then an hour...am I wrong here ? + +Thank you for your opinion.","papyson & aliboy: Thank you for your responses. I do not know what the mechanic considers a sea trial. The boat is in dry storage at the marine (same marina performing the repair work). I would assume he took it around the bay in front of the marina for a sea trial. +No trailering to the water. They take the boat out of the dry storage with the forklift an move 50 yards to the ramp and thats it, ready to go.","papyson & aliboy: Thank you for your responses. I do not know what the mechanic considers a sea trial. The boat is in dry storage at the marine (same marina performing the repair work). I would assume he took it around the bay in front of the marina for a sea trial. +No trailering to the water. They take the boat out of the dry storage with the forklift an move 50 yards to the ramp and thats it, ready to go.","Was just curious if it would make a difference. +Thanks" +"2009 Century with a 2009 Yamaha 225hp with 250hrs well and always maintained. + +Recently 30 miles out I found some carbon shooting out at start up. Initially I assumed the bottom end is leaking and fought it was oil. +Right after return I checked the boat in with the local marina. +The Yamaha Mech / Marina called me and was fair enough to tell me that my engine / bottom end is in no need for repair that the ""oil leak"" is only carbon. All that was needed was some ""treat mix"" in the fuel. So far so good and very fair. + +Unitil now....I just got my bill $ 445.00 the invoice states: + +- Seatrial (only happened at start up so no driving necessary, just start the engine) +- Check Spark Plugs +- Call Yamaha +- Add Treatmix to fuel +- Seatrial + +Before I call and complain I would greatly appreciate your guys input. Is this invoice reasonable ? IMHO that should not take more then an hour...am I wrong here ? + +Thank you for your opinion.",he ate up a half day probably..bill is prolly correct....you may have saved some money by towing it yourself to another shop...if you know how to check compression and spark there is plenty of free help here..,he ate up a half day probably..bill is prolly correct....you may have saved some money by towing it yourself to another shop...if you know how to check compression and spark there is plenty of free help here..,"Jinsoo said: + + + + I think (that) o2 feedback sensor is no. + +do you have a yamaha scanner? it fault code remains on ECU. + +it is not expensive. U can buy on ebay. just about 70 $ + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks Kim. + +I think I'll have to buy a scanner myself and check what it is. I think it must be water getting into the fuel somehow or that oxy sensor. But I appreciate the advice that the oxy sensor is unlikely. That helps me a bit. +Thanks for replying. I appreciate the help! + +Nick" +"(Edit) sorry for spelling on title..........1985 Yamaha 175 hp....lll make it short....changed stator and cleaned carbs. Motor runs fine at low and high just when flooring the throttle it bogs or misses. I know I have to set timing since I messed with screws changing parts, want to set before I start trying to diagnose anything else. Just want to eliminate this possibility If someone could walk me through this step by step I would appreciate it. I know best way to do this is in the water under load but I read that it can get pretty close if done correctly sitting out. Also does a regular car timing light work or do I even need it. Don't have specialized tools but I follow directions, I went to kinder....Thanks everybody.","Re: Looking for patient soul to help with timing Older yamaha + +C'mon fellows someone's gotta have an idea of this.....or does anyone know of someone that can do this in so cal..near orange/la county?","Re: Looking for patient soul to help with timing Older yamaha + +C'mon fellows someone's gotta have an idea of this.....or does anyone know of someone that can do this in so cal..near orange/la county?",Look for a parts motor with good powerhead.-----Or invest in a factory new crankshaft assembly.-----Look for a crank assembly on e-bay. +"(Edit) sorry for spelling on title..........1985 Yamaha 175 hp....lll make it short....changed stator and cleaned carbs. Motor runs fine at low and high just when flooring the throttle it bogs or misses. I know I have to set timing since I messed with screws changing parts, want to set before I start trying to diagnose anything else. Just want to eliminate this possibility If someone could walk me through this step by step I would appreciate it. I know best way to do this is in the water under load but I read that it can get pretty close if done correctly sitting out. Also does a regular car timing light work or do I even need it. Don't have specialized tools but I follow directions, I went to kinder....Thanks everybody.","A regular timing light for a car is all that is needed. I'm not familiar with the model of outboard you are referring to, but there will generally be a linkage that advances and retards the timing. Do you have the spec for your manual for what it should be? For the general process I'd just watch any YouTube video you can find on how to use a timing light if you aren't familiar, and then Google for the BTDC/ ATDC degrees that your motor should be at when idling. + +Stuart","A regular timing light for a car is all that is needed. I'm not familiar with the model of outboard you are referring to, but there will generally be a linkage that advances and retards the timing. Do you have the spec for your manual for what it should be? For the general process I'd just watch any YouTube video you can find on how to use a timing light if you aren't familiar, and then Google for the BTDC/ ATDC degrees that your motor should be at when idling. + +Stuart","I don't think so,u have other issues." +"(Edit) sorry for spelling on title..........1985 Yamaha 175 hp....lll make it short....changed stator and cleaned carbs. Motor runs fine at low and high just when flooring the throttle it bogs or misses. I know I have to set timing since I messed with screws changing parts, want to set before I start trying to diagnose anything else. Just want to eliminate this possibility If someone could walk me through this step by step I would appreciate it. I know best way to do this is in the water under load but I read that it can get pretty close if done correctly sitting out. Also does a regular car timing light work or do I even need it. Don't have specialized tools but I follow directions, I went to kinder....Thanks everybody.",I have the factory service manual that covers your motor. Send me a PM and I'll send you info on static timing (motor not running). Just did mine. Pretty straight forward.,I have the factory service manual that covers your motor. Send me a PM and I'll send you info on static timing (motor not running). Just did mine. Pretty straight forward.,"2006 200hp HPDI. 2 stroke, at low idle in gear. Sounds like its coming from the transmission area. Could it be the drive shaft bushing about half way down the center unit? Didn't start until tech pulled lower unit to replace impeller." +"So obviously I haven't bought a 6gal tank in a long time. All sold now with out hook up fittings. +Have 08 yammi 40 want extra tank. Where do I get the fittings and why aren't the tanks vented any more","http://www.marineengine.com/products/accessories.php?g=500 +everything you need is sold on here...there is also phone support id you need it.. +tanks are ''self vented'' now...i guess epa rules ....i run two of them..one works and the other i have to crack the fill cap...","http://www.marineengine.com/products/accessories.php?g=500 +everything you need is sold on here...there is also phone support id you need it.. +tanks are ''self vented'' now...i guess epa rules ....i run two of them..one works and the other i have to crack the fill cap...","By loom are you referring to the rigging tube? If so, what you are seeing is not unheard of. Bleach and other chemicals can get into the rigging tube. With no way to drain out over time the degrade the rubber and other materials used to cover throttle/shift cables, battery cables, fuel hoses and whatnot." +"Hello all. just wondering what is involved in switching the oil injection to premix. local mechanic said they system is not working correctly. With the engine being older, looking to buy some time before we re-engine the boat. + Is just a unplug type thing or more than that. this is my first time doing this so I am asking for any advice. + thank you",Why isn't it working properly that is a pretty bullet proof system,Why isn't it working properly that is a pretty bullet proof system,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Don't assume anything. Get a spark tester and see if you do not have ignition. When you run the engine what is the maximum RPM while running on the water? + +Click to expand... + +I always run under 4000 rpm. I was running 3800 during 30 MPH and both engines sounded good. No problem getting on plane .Once starting the engine it would not kick over until I advance the throttle with some smoke . Must of flooded it. But that only happen once." +"Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks.","maikel10909 said: + + + + Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks. + +Click to expand... + + +This is where a $30 manual would help you save a lot of time, money and headache.","maikel10909 said: + + + + Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks. + +Click to expand... + + +This is where a $30 manual would help you save a lot of time, money and headache.","Did you look it up online the wiring scheme for the boat? Only ask cause it should be easier then it looks. This boat has been modified from the way it used to be wired. Only say that cause wires are +missing, broken, leading to nowhere, old wires are still sitting in the boat. Like the old trolling motor cables, the on board battery charger, the front running lights, the copper wires were completely black so they fried.." +"Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks.","I have tried the manual, yes. But its not doing anything good. That's why I try to get my answers here, but apparently I can't find them here.","I have tried the manual, yes. But its not doing anything good. That's why I try to get my answers here, but apparently I can't find them here.","Yep, Mako is correct. Blockage in the fitting is usually those dammmed mud-dauber wasps, or sometimes, wood particles from the boat rubbing against a wooden dock. Have you had a look yet?" +"Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks.",This is the 2nd string on this motor....what it boils down to is we dont have enough information about the failure to help you...the first decision you have to make is it a fuel or a fire problem..you say water somewhere in the electrical is suspected...so does the engine have fire at the time of failure?,This is the 2nd string on this motor....what it boils down to is we dont have enough information about the failure to help you...the first decision you have to make is it a fuel or a fire problem..you say water somewhere in the electrical is suspected...so does the engine have fire at the time of failure?,Then you should know how to do a voltage drop test? +"Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks.","Ah, alright, would be nice if someone said that to me though, but thanks + +its a 2 tact engine, which runs fine. Usually, but sometimes if you stop it, it won't do anything for a week or two. + It gets fuel and there is a spark in both bougies, the carburetor is cleaned several times, all the needles and halves has been checked. The fuel goes into the carburetor. But it just won't start. +Even when you spray gasoline directly into the cylinders it won't start until you wait several days to weeks. Amd then it starts and runs just fine. When you stop the engine it has a chance of not starting after that anymore, it happens infrequently and therefore im not so sure where to look for. + +I hope this is enough information","Ah, alright, would be nice if someone said that to me though, but thanks + +its a 2 tact engine, which runs fine. Usually, but sometimes if you stop it, it won't do anything for a week or two. + It gets fuel and there is a spark in both bougies, the carburetor is cleaned several times, all the needles and halves has been checked. The fuel goes into the carburetor. But it just won't start. +Even when you spray gasoline directly into the cylinders it won't start until you wait several days to weeks. Amd then it starts and runs just fine. When you stop the engine it has a chance of not starting after that anymore, it happens infrequently and therefore im not so sure where to look for. + +I hope this is enough information",Think it has full travel buts its not enough. maybe its not the right controller for the engine. mite just have to file the cam down.. or make a new one up +"Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks.","This is the procedure I go through to check the ignition system for electrical problems: https://youtu.be/MDbvkFM1V_c + +I would also run the motor with the cowling off and see if you can spot any water leaks. Water coming from somewhere like the cover over the thermostat will definitely cause you problems. + +Stuart","This is the procedure I go through to check the ignition system for electrical problems: https://youtu.be/MDbvkFM1V_c + +I would also run the motor with the cowling off and see if you can spot any water leaks. Water coming from somewhere like the cover over the thermostat will definitely cause you problems. + +Stuart",Very good information.. +"Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks.","Alright, I will certainly try this out thank you.. +but can I ask how does a thermostat cause an engine to not start anymore, after it ran smoothly? I assume the thermostat only registers the temperature, and the higher this is. The more cold water is allowed into the engine. I reckon if this became wet,,then it would think the machine is cold and you wouldn't get as much water coolage, but this would overheat an engine, rather then not start an stalled engine. Or am I missing the obvious here, I'll certainly check it, but I was wondering it","Alright, I will certainly try this out thank you.. +but can I ask how does a thermostat cause an engine to not start anymore, after it ran smoothly? I assume the thermostat only registers the temperature, and the higher this is. The more cold water is allowed into the engine. I reckon if this became wet,,then it would think the machine is cold and you wouldn't get as much water coolage, but this would overheat an engine, rather then not start an stalled engine. Or am I missing the obvious here, I'll certainly check it, but I was wondering it","Well may have to go to OMC outdrive then. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Enjoy the voyage,.... They've been outa business for Decades,...." +"Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks.","With regards to the thermostat, it is just if the gasket is bad and it is leaking externally. I have seen this several times spray water up under the flywheel and short the electrics. If you can't see any sign of water coming from the gasket it won't be the problem. + +Stuart","With regards to the thermostat, it is just if the gasket is bad and it is leaking externally. I have seen this several times spray water up under the flywheel and short the electrics. If you can't see any sign of water coming from the gasket it won't be the problem. + +Stuart",2008 yamaha f40bejr is the model. Sorry I should have included that. +"Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks.","I have looked into the engine closer, and it seems the contactpoints beneath the flywheel are corroded, which would mean that water indeed comes here. Altough i couldn't find where, i can't acces past the flywheel yet as i can't remove the flywheel yet, since i need special equipment, which i will get this week. +It's unlikely that it's caused by the thermostat gasket or something, because that's in a other place I think (going to double check on that) But I will look for the possible problems. +At least it seems that water comes indeed in the flywheel, so that is a +, I now know what to look for. + +Also I have a question: There is a wire, unconnected(you can see it hanging out beneath) +Why is that there? does anyone know what's it for","I have looked into the engine closer, and it seems the contactpoints beneath the flywheel are corroded, which would mean that water indeed comes here. Altough i couldn't find where, i can't acces past the flywheel yet as i can't remove the flywheel yet, since i need special equipment, which i will get this week. +It's unlikely that it's caused by the thermostat gasket or something, because that's in a other place I think (going to double check on that) But I will look for the possible problems. +At least it seems that water comes indeed in the flywheel, so that is a +, I now know what to look for. + +Also I have a question: There is a wire, unconnected(you can see it hanging out beneath) +Why is that there? does anyone know what's it for","I was looking at pump setups and found this one. Is this a good way to go or should I stick with the float switch? + +Rule 500 (25S) Automatic +Price: $51.99 +Manufacturer: Rule + +Product Details: + +Rule Automatic Bilge Pumps +Float switches are not required for these fully automatic pumps. Controlled by computerised operation, the pump will turn on every 2.5 minutes for about 1 second to sense for water. If water is present, the pump will sense resistance and continue to run until all water is removed. Power use in the checking mode is minimal for the peace of mind that this range of pumps offer. + +The Rule 500 offers many design features while keeping size and cost to a minimum. Especially popular on smaller craft, Rule 500 pumps are unmatched in pumping power and longevity. 3/4’’ (19mm) discharge outlet. Note: 25D pictured. + +Automatic 12v + +Specifications: +Voltage: 12 Vdc +Amp Draw: 1.9 amp +Fuse Size: 2.5 amp +Height: 4 inches 102 mm +Width: 2 3/8 Inches 60.3 mm +Weight: 11 oz 310 g" +"Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks.","Those two wires are likely to be from a lighting coil. These supply an AC current that can be connected to a regulator/ rectifier to charge a battery. + +Stuart","Those two wires are likely to be from a lighting coil. These supply an AC current that can be connected to a regulator/ rectifier to charge a battery. + +Stuart","Ayuh,.... I understand that, I'm just tellin' ya that the rotary helms are Bigger than the rack, 'n that generally, boat manufacturer's tend to install what Fits, rather than just goin' with a rack or rotary helm,..." +"Hello, + +I have a problem with my Yamaha, the problem is that after running the engine and stalling it, it sometimes won't start anymore for a few days, to a few weeks sometimes. +why this occurs I don't know but I have this hunch that it has something to do with the electrical components. Maybe water comes at places, that prevents starting the next times until the water evaporated from this place. + +How can I test if this is true, and where can such a place occur in an engine, what can I check to prevent this in future times? + +Please I hope someone can give me a proper explanation about this, its frustrating because somtime I sail 30km with no issues. Or I sail 1; then stall it and then it won't run anynore for a few days to a few weeks.","The flywheel finally came off after a while work. The contacts are rusted and the condensators didn't looked to good, tomorrow we gonna take the bottom part off and check the membranes there. + +So the problem is likely to be this, but now we gotta find the problem.","The flywheel finally came off after a while work. The contacts are rusted and the condensators didn't looked to good, tomorrow we gonna take the bottom part off and check the membranes there. + +So the problem is likely to be this, but now we gotta find the problem.","233mercruiser said: + + + + well somebody before me replaced the floor with particle board and normal carpet so needless to say it was all soaked. BUT on the positive side who ever replaced the floor (very badly mind you) saved MOST of the frame boards underneith. + +im scared to rip all the foam out. dont know how to replace properly. ive been reading on the kind of foam that should be used. where can i find it? hard to use? ive heard of people blowing their floors up by putting too much. + +i appreciate any input on any aspect under the floor. as i am a noob and probably over looking stuff. + +Thank you + +Click to expand... + +Not much activity on boat restoration on this site. Try your question here. Good luck! http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair" +"I have a 2001 F115 Yamaha four stroke with 850 hours on it that was idling rough. + +Figured it was time for a little overdue maintenance. + +I've done most of the work in the past on all my motors with very few issues. + +Decided to change: + +The timing belt and tensioner. Everything came off and went back in without a hitch. Located TDC on flywheel and lined up the arrows on the cam gears. Replaced belt. Adjusted tensioner. Smooth as butter. + +Replaced old thermostat with a shiny new one. Smooth as butter. + +Replaced the four fuel injectors. Everything came out easy-peasy and went back together again (checked the pressure in the fuel rail and had a bit over 40 psi - right in spec). Smooth as butter. + +Removed the idle control valve and soaked it (completely submerged) for two days in Marvel Mystery Oil (after reading here that this method has worked for other guys). Replaced the old O ring and reinstalled the valve. Seemed smooth as butter. + +Took the boat down to the water and initially it fired right up, but then it died out within moments. I was able to put the shifter in neutral and with about half throttle, was able to get the engine started, and and it ran smooth at 2000 rpm. However, every time I dropped it back down into idle/neutral, the engine would die out. Also wasn't able to get it started again in neutral. + +WTF??? + +Could it be that soaking the idle control valve in the Marvel Mystery Oil screwed it up? I'm scratching my head thinking that - simply because it won't idle. BTW, I tried disconnecting the ICV while I had it running at high idle, but didn't notice a change - or when it was reconnected - just died out again. + +Help!","Hummm, +I used a universal pulley holder with two pins that went down through the flywheel holes (to help hold the flywheel-and was a major pain in ass, when trying to pop the flywheel off the shaft with the flywheel puller). +After a long battle, the flywheel popped off, and underneath, I discovered that I had damaged one of the copper wires on the stator with the flywheel holder (must have went in too far). +Now I'm wondering if that may be the reason the engine won't idle? +Any feedback on that thought?","Hummm, +I used a universal pulley holder with two pins that went down through the flywheel holes (to help hold the flywheel-and was a major pain in ass, when trying to pop the flywheel off the shaft with the flywheel puller). +After a long battle, the flywheel popped off, and underneath, I discovered that I had damaged one of the copper wires on the stator with the flywheel holder (must have went in too far). +Now I'm wondering if that may be the reason the engine won't idle? +Any feedback on that thought?","Naw,.... That's a load of Bull,...... + +Not sayin' you'll never see a leaky Rivet, but they're not to common,.... + +What yer not goin' to like about that hull is the rough ride,..... +It's too flat, not enough deep Vee,....." +"I have a 2001 F115 Yamaha four stroke with 850 hours on it that was idling rough. + +Figured it was time for a little overdue maintenance. + +I've done most of the work in the past on all my motors with very few issues. + +Decided to change: + +The timing belt and tensioner. Everything came off and went back in without a hitch. Located TDC on flywheel and lined up the arrows on the cam gears. Replaced belt. Adjusted tensioner. Smooth as butter. + +Replaced old thermostat with a shiny new one. Smooth as butter. + +Replaced the four fuel injectors. Everything came out easy-peasy and went back together again (checked the pressure in the fuel rail and had a bit over 40 psi - right in spec). Smooth as butter. + +Removed the idle control valve and soaked it (completely submerged) for two days in Marvel Mystery Oil (after reading here that this method has worked for other guys). Replaced the old O ring and reinstalled the valve. Seemed smooth as butter. + +Took the boat down to the water and initially it fired right up, but then it died out within moments. I was able to put the shifter in neutral and with about half throttle, was able to get the engine started, and and it ran smooth at 2000 rpm. However, every time I dropped it back down into idle/neutral, the engine would die out. Also wasn't able to get it started again in neutral. + +WTF??? + +Could it be that soaking the idle control valve in the Marvel Mystery Oil screwed it up? I'm scratching my head thinking that - simply because it won't idle. BTW, I tried disconnecting the ICV while I had it running at high idle, but didn't notice a change - or when it was reconnected - just died out again. + +Help!",Here's a pic of the broken wire on the stator,Here's a pic of the broken wire on the stator,"crankshaft said: + + + + Many small planes use mags only. Obvious reliability issues. + +Click to expand... + +I can't recall a light piston powered air plane that does not use a magneto ignition system. Two of them actually. Some with a special system to help them get started given their fixed timing systems. + +Big difference between an airplane motor and an outboard motor. It is not just happenstance that all modern stuff uses electronic ignition systems. Some air plane motors as well." +"I have a 50hp 2003 Yamaha that starts but will die out on idle. have good fuel pressure, have removed carbuerators and am working on them now, hope this will solve issue . any suggestions?","finished cleaning carbs , no change . suspect head gaskt?","finished cleaning carbs , no change . suspect head gaskt?",Leak down the engine. +"I have 150 HPDI 2004. Is there a adjustment to regulate the full up position of the motor. Full up will contact my transom now. +Thanks","Is it your hydraulic steering cylinder that is contacting the transom? If so, the Seastar website has instructions on how to flip over the flat bracket (triangle shaped) that attaches to the tiller to gain some clearance. I had to do this on mine.","Is it your hydraulic steering cylinder that is contacting the transom? If so, the Seastar website has instructions on how to flip over the flat bracket (triangle shaped) that attaches to the tiller to gain some clearance. I had to do this on mine.",Make sure you buy an antifouling coating...microorganisms can eat away at your hull without you realizing. This article has a few suggestions for marine coatings worth checking out. +"I have 150 HPDI 2004. Is there a adjustment to regulate the full up position of the motor. Full up will contact my transom now. +Thanks",No it's the forward top of the engine cover that hits the transom with the engine all the way up.,No it's the forward top of the engine cover that hits the transom with the engine all the way up.,The system is self purging. +"My 250 hpdi runs like a champ in the cool mornings idles good gets up on plane and runs fine. But after I fish all day in the hot sun, I go to retun to the ramp. (The motor has not been running for several hours) I pump the ball start the motor it idles fine but when I put the throttle down it will surge and then die. It only happens when it gets hot outside. + +I have replaced the primer bulb and the fule line. +At the end of the season last year it was running fine when I put her to bed for the winter. +before the season started for me I had her in for a annual tuneup. Filters, plugs, ect. + +any help would be much appreciated thanks",Sound to me that you are having a or a pre overheat problem. How your water pump impeller. Sometimes sitting to long over the winter will not pump good. Next bad thermostats could be restrict the flow of water . When overheated you are restricted to a lower RPM'S,Sound to me that you are having a or a pre overheat problem. How your water pump impeller. Sometimes sitting to long over the winter will not pump good. Next bad thermostats could be restrict the flow of water . When overheated you are restricted to a lower RPM'S,"Re: '68 sea ray 24' + +A lot depends on the weight/size of the boat and the size of the trailer, the type trailer, and number of axels. If the trailer is really in bad shape, you are likely better off replacing the whole system - coupler, acuator, brake lines, hubs, bearings, seals, and complete brake assemblies. That will probably set you back at least $1200 - $1500 if you have a trailer shop do it for you. Also, carefully check your springs and replace them if you are not confident they are servicable. It is relatively easy to DIY if you have the time and tools, otherwise get a professional to do the work and get a firm estimate. If you plan to do a lot of trailering, be sure to have a professional check your alignment - a misaligned trailer will chew up you tires very rapidly. Final thing is to make sure your tires are in good shape - no dry rot or sidewall cuts. Make it a habit to park your trailer on a hard stand. If none available, use treated 2 X 10 boards under the wheels. + +If you are going to go that far, you may want to replace all the lights with LED's while your at it. They last much longer and are impervious to water." +in neutral...small turn on the handle causes full acceleration...in gear...idles ok but as soon as handle turned it loses power almost to stalling...motor is haunted!! any ideas? 1989 model,"Hey there + +With the cowling off, can you see what is happening with the throttle linkage at the carburettor? There may be something weird going on there. The stalling as you take off is usually a too lean condition where you are getting more air than fuel. This could be a clogged carburettor or a vacuum leak. The two symptoms together are a bit weird though! Here's a vid on carb cleaning: https://youtu.be/ye_Ui9D8dBE To check for a vacuum leak you spray something like an unlit gas torch around the intake manifold of the engine and listen for a change in idle RPM as the gas gets sucked in through the leak. + +Let me know how you get on, +Stuart","Hey there + +With the cowling off, can you see what is happening with the throttle linkage at the carburettor? There may be something weird going on there. The stalling as you take off is usually a too lean condition where you are getting more air than fuel. This could be a clogged carburettor or a vacuum leak. The two symptoms together are a bit weird though! Here's a vid on carb cleaning: https://youtu.be/ye_Ui9D8dBE To check for a vacuum leak you spray something like an unlit gas torch around the intake manifold of the engine and listen for a change in idle RPM as the gas gets sucked in through the leak. + +Let me know how you get on, +Stuart","""Not sure where HERE is but Ma + +""Not sure where HERE is but Maine started fall of 08can't remember for sure the date,all I know it screwed alot of people here in Maine.I tried to tell people when I came home from Ma. but no one would listen until they started ruining chain saws,generators sno mobiles,outboards but then it was to late,damage done.The big problem with the new gas with ethanol is the water they always said gas & water don't mix but in this case ethanol molecules & water molecules combine to make a solid if left sitting for an extended time,less than 3 weeks.The govt. in their wisdom thought they would be saving money,oil,environment,create jobs but if we had the expense to the public right now because of ethanol it is probably quite scary & I think they should stop using ethanol for marine use but I am not going to hold my breath on that one!All I know is add stabilizer, keep changing filters & hang on because it looks like it is going to get worse instead of better.""" +in neutral...small turn on the handle causes full acceleration...in gear...idles ok but as soon as handle turned it loses power almost to stalling...motor is haunted!! any ideas? 1989 model,"Thanks Stuart...cleaned as per instructions. prior to cleaning choke was fully closed to start and if adjusted engine died almost right away. after cleaning choke was adjustable for a short period ...seconds...then back to the same conditions prior to cleaning...!I cant keep it running long enough to try the vacuum leak test. if it was bad fuel it would just not run at all, right?...linkage etc all good and was working before this problem. Any further suggestions would be appreciated","Thanks Stuart...cleaned as per instructions. prior to cleaning choke was fully closed to start and if adjusted engine died almost right away. after cleaning choke was adjustable for a short period ...seconds...then back to the same conditions prior to cleaning...!I cant keep it running long enough to try the vacuum leak test. if it was bad fuel it would just not run at all, right?...linkage etc all good and was working before this problem. Any further suggestions would be appreciated",Take a look inside of the bad cylinders with a borescope. +in neutral...small turn on the handle causes full acceleration...in gear...idles ok but as soon as handle turned it loses power almost to stalling...motor is haunted!! any ideas? 1989 model,what would cause the engine to race all by itself?,what would cause the engine to race all by itself?,The cable doesn't make a crackle sound and I cleaned all the terminals and posts with a wire brush. All nice and clean but I still get the same result. Turns over but not fast enough like when the battery starter is on. Like not enough amps is going in to turn it fast. +"After running flawlessly for 13 years my outboard had developed a chirp while idling. It will idle at 9000rpm, then a loud chirp will come from the motor and the rpms will go down to about 7000 for about a second before raising back up to 9000. This will happen randomly every 5-10 seconds. Runs great while in gear, only does this while idling. First time having it out this year. Model number is 50 LTHQ, 1992 motor. Any ideas, i just bought a larger boat and was going to put this up for sale, terrible timing for this to happen!! i appreciate all comments! + +Sorry i cant figure out how to attach the video, if there is a way please let me know and i will","dokker said: + + + + After running flawlessly for 13 years my outboard had developed a chirp while idling. It will idle at 900rpm, then a loud chirp will come from the motor and the rpms will go down to about 700 for about a second before raising back up to 900. This will happen randomly every 5-10 seconds. Runs great while in gear, only does this while idling. First time having it out this year. Model number is 50 LTHQ, 1992 motor. Any ideas, i just bought a larger boat and was going to put this up for sale, terrible timing for this to happen!! i appreciate all comments! + +Sorry i cant figure out how to attach the video, if there is a way please let me know and i will + +Click to expand... + + +Here is a youtube video i shot of it running. I just found another youtube video showing the same thing, calling it a ""lean sneeze"". Some were saying to adjust the carbs. Does this sound right? I will give this a shot and see what happens when i return home next week. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PIP5e2GCOk","dokker said: + + + + After running flawlessly for 13 years my outboard had developed a chirp while idling. It will idle at 900rpm, then a loud chirp will come from the motor and the rpms will go down to about 700 for about a second before raising back up to 900. This will happen randomly every 5-10 seconds. Runs great while in gear, only does this while idling. First time having it out this year. Model number is 50 LTHQ, 1992 motor. Any ideas, i just bought a larger boat and was going to put this up for sale, terrible timing for this to happen!! i appreciate all comments! + +Sorry i cant figure out how to attach the video, if there is a way please let me know and i will + +Click to expand... + + +Here is a youtube video i shot of it running. I just found another youtube video showing the same thing, calling it a ""lean sneeze"". Some were saying to adjust the carbs. Does this sound right? I will give this a shot and see what happens when i return home next week. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PIP5e2GCOk",If you are running on a hose in the driveway this is very normal. It is the unburnt oil from the exhaust.--------------The wee hole is a casting cavity drain. +"After running flawlessly for 13 years my outboard had developed a chirp while idling. It will idle at 9000rpm, then a loud chirp will come from the motor and the rpms will go down to about 7000 for about a second before raising back up to 9000. This will happen randomly every 5-10 seconds. Runs great while in gear, only does this while idling. First time having it out this year. Model number is 50 LTHQ, 1992 motor. Any ideas, i just bought a larger boat and was going to put this up for sale, terrible timing for this to happen!! i appreciate all comments! + +Sorry i cant figure out how to attach the video, if there is a way please let me know and i will","dokker said: + + + + After running flawlessly for 13 years my outboard had developed a chirp while idling. It will idle at 9000rpm, then a loud chirp will come from the motor and the rpms will go down to about 7000 for about a second before raising back up to 9000. This will happen randomly every 5-10 seconds. Runs great while in gear, only does this while idling. First time having it out this year. Model number is 50 LTHQ, 1992 motor. Any ideas, i just bought a larger boat and was going to put this up for sale, terrible timing for this to happen!! i appreciate all comments! + +Sorry i cant figure out how to attach the video, if there is a way please let me know and i will + +Click to expand... + + +900 and 700rpm, not 9000 and 7000","dokker said: + + + + After running flawlessly for 13 years my outboard had developed a chirp while idling. It will idle at 9000rpm, then a loud chirp will come from the motor and the rpms will go down to about 7000 for about a second before raising back up to 9000. This will happen randomly every 5-10 seconds. Runs great while in gear, only does this while idling. First time having it out this year. Model number is 50 LTHQ, 1992 motor. Any ideas, i just bought a larger boat and was going to put this up for sale, terrible timing for this to happen!! i appreciate all comments! + +Sorry i cant figure out how to attach the video, if there is a way please let me know and i will + +Click to expand... + + +900 and 700rpm, not 9000 and 7000","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Are you missing the thrust washer on the propeller? + +Click to expand... + + + +Not sure but maybe. I'll check it tomorrow and get back to tomorrow. Thank you for the response and sounds very reasonable. The boat came with a new propeller and very likely could be the problem." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","It could just be the tell tale outlet being blocked. Try using a paperclip or something to clear the outlet. If you remove the thermostat, is water coming out? If so then you have water pumping through the impeller okay and the blockage is further along. Sometimes using air and water to flush the cooling system backwards can get it flowing again. + +Stuart","It could just be the tell tale outlet being blocked. Try using a paperclip or something to clear the outlet. If you remove the thermostat, is water coming out? If so then you have water pumping through the impeller okay and the blockage is further along. Sometimes using air and water to flush the cooling system backwards can get it flowing again. + +Stuart",Yam has produced hundreds of 50hp models. Which one do you have? +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","DANNYCWAY said: + + + + I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny + +Click to expand... + + +Is this motor in saltwater? Is the motor overheating? If so, the water jackets could be plugged with salt buildup. Run the motor and check each cylinder with a infra red temp gauge. Operating temp should be between 140-165 degrees, the alarm comes on when temps are between 183-195 degrees. If clogged water jackets is the problem, the jackets should be removed and the water channel would have to be cleaned.","DANNYCWAY said: + + + + I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny + +Click to expand... + + +Is this motor in saltwater? Is the motor overheating? If so, the water jackets could be plugged with salt buildup. Run the motor and check each cylinder with a infra red temp gauge. Operating temp should be between 140-165 degrees, the alarm comes on when temps are between 183-195 degrees. If clogged water jackets is the problem, the jackets should be removed and the water channel would have to be cleaned.","Shesho said: + + + +1. What products/parts do i need when it comes to installing a complete livewell system? +2. Is there an exact flow rate/gallons per hour that is specific to keep my bait alive and well when off-shore fishing? +3. Do i need to run cables through the hull of my boat to my battery and switch on my dash? +4. Would installing a small screen on the PVC pipe that sucks out the water be a good idea to help the livewell filter last for a longer period of time? + +Click to expand... + +I'm really suprized there isn't a livewell on that boat. I thought typically center console boats had a seat in front of the console that doubles as a livewell. Guess I was wrong on that one. + +Parts needed: +1) Thru-hull 500 GPH livewell pump +2) Stainless Mesh intake screen +3) About 25' of 3/4"" bilge pump hose +4) Livewell sprayer nozzle +5) Quantity of two, 1 1/8"" thru-hull fittings to use as a drain (one on the livewell, one on the side of the boat) +6) About 10' of 1 1/8"" tubing for the drain. + +Cables? +Yes. I would suggest a 2nd, deep cycle battery to operate the livewell. Put an automatic timer on it like this one so you can just set it and forget it: https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Lect...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MYE7BFBDMQ133F5CN2SJ +This timer will allow it to run continuously so you can fill the livewell, then turn it to a timer setting for automatic on/off cycles. + +Wire the 2nd battery ground directly to the pump and the timer. Then, run the battery positive directly to the timer, then from the timer + to the pump." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","Thank you stuart , i will try that in the morning","Thank you stuart , i will try that in the morning","The motor should have a specific model identity. For instance, F25MLHA. Crank shaft part number 65W-11411-01-00. + +There is a specific Yamaha service manual for that model motor. Within the SM you will find the minimum dimensions for the crank shaft journals and the clearances for the bearings." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","Hey solinsky , it a fresh water motor. New impeeler kit ect... Im going to check the poppet valve tomorrow, maybe its clogged , but doesnt make any since , whike winterizing it was peeing fine.","Hey solinsky , it a fresh water motor. New impeeler kit ect... Im going to check the poppet valve tomorrow, maybe its clogged , but doesnt make any since , whike winterizing it was peeing fine.","sounds like a mercruiser 260 with an alpha drive...there are many engine schematics posted in the mercruiser section - just search for them. + +For the searay specifics, you would be better off going to one of the sea ray specific forums - google is your friend for those as well." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","dannycway said: + + + + hey solinsky , it a fresh water motor. New impeeler kit ect... Im going to check the poppet valve tomorrow, maybe its clogged , but doesnt make any since , whike winterizing it was peeing fine. + +Click to expand... + +would a stuck shut thermostate cause it not to pee thru the tell tale?","dannycway said: + + + + hey solinsky , it a fresh water motor. New impeeler kit ect... Im going to check the poppet valve tomorrow, maybe its clogged , but doesnt make any since , whike winterizing it was peeing fine. + +Click to expand... + +would a stuck shut thermostate cause it not to pee thru the tell tale?","Yamahascboy,you will get a better response if you post a new thread, Try using a timing light while running to see if you are losing spark, use an assistant." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","Yes , i turned it to the right clock wise","Yes , i turned it to the right clock wise","Ken Brimage said: + + + + Hello everyone, + + I am a new boat owner and i know a little about boats. I have recently purchased a cobia with a I/O system and this boat has a heat exchanger....no idea what that is. i looked it up on the net and i am getting no were...i have a friend who has a boat and its his first boat also so the help i thought i would get is not happening. If anyone could share some info about what it is that am now the new proud owner of, it would be greatly appresheated... + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,... What motor,..?? What outdrive,..?? They ain't all the same,.... + +Serial numbers would help,..." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","After you check the Tale tail for a blockage, (Just a guess) Toss out the rectangular muffs you are using and get the cheap round ones. For somereason (shape of lower housing) They are not Yamaha friendly. + +Did you have the lock ring on top of your water pump impeller?","After you check the Tale tail for a blockage, (Just a guess) Toss out the rectangular muffs you are using and get the cheap round ones. For somereason (shape of lower housing) They are not Yamaha friendly. + +Did you have the lock ring on top of your water pump impeller?",Thank for the help. We do have a manometer and a new #4 carb. The #4 carb is still missing. What are possible problems? Does the Yamaha 2204 50 hp 4 stroke model no. T50TLRC have issues with the #4 carb? Thank you. +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","Yes the lock ring is on, is it possible the thermostate is stuck shut","Yes the lock ring is on, is it possible the thermostate is stuck shut",What about the finish of the panel....keep it in polished aluminum or go to gloss black? +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny",I also lowered the motor in a deep tub submerged and nothing.,I also lowered the motor in a deep tub submerged and nothing.,"Hi Hordos, thanks for the info. I am just waiting for the mounting bracket then will install. Still need to take the boat out and see what angle the boat planes at so that I can get the dome installed horizontal. + +Cheers" +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","There's also a water hose hook up on the side of the motor, ran it thru thatand it flowed fine thru thr telltale. When i haad the lower unit out again i ran water up thru the water pick-up tube and it ran out the telltale wide open , im just out of thhings to try.","There's also a water hose hook up on the side of the motor, ran it thru thatand it flowed fine thru thr telltale. When i haad the lower unit out again i ran water up thru the water pick-up tube and it ran out the telltale wide open , im just out of thhings to try.","I have two group 27 starting batteries in paralllel whose sole responsiblitiy is to start the port motor. (Actually they also start the genset too, which drives the battery charger). Four group 27 deep cycle batteries in parallel start the starboard motor and supply the house. There is a paralleling switch up at the helm. I had to use it once when the house batteries ran down to the point where the starboard motor wouldn't start. Worked great. Started the Port motor, let the port battery bank charge for 10 minutes, hit the parallel switch and the starboard motor fired instantly." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","OK the(lock) Nylon taper and steel ring are in place. Under the lock ring on top of the impeller there flat and spring washers, are they in place? + +Did you change the whole pump or just the impeller? Who makes the parts that you purchased?","OK the(lock) Nylon taper and steel ring are in place. Under the lock ring on top of the impeller there flat and spring washers, are they in place? + +Did you change the whole pump or just the impeller? Who makes the parts that you purchased?","For the leak: pressure test and find the problem area. +It could be something as simple as a drain seal not tight or the +seals in the carrier. +Both are fairly easy to replace. +Just take pics, close up pics as you dismantle. + +Post a few pics of the shift rod." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","Thanks for getting back with me , ok evrything is in place all i changed was the housing impeller plate and gasket water pickup tube grommet.all parts were yamaha oem.","Thanks for getting back with me , ok evrything is in place all i changed was the housing impeller plate and gasket water pickup tube grommet.all parts were yamaha oem.","Loren, hello. Is the glow plug activating? Check the overheat breaker next to the glow plug. It open circuits the fuel pump when it pops. Some times they will get weak over time and pop even though the overheat sensor did not trip it. If it is not popped and the glow plug is turning on, put a strong magnet on the case of the pulse generator when it should be putting out a pulse.( I can't remember front or back so try both) and see if the pulse returns. When the pulse gen. goes it will either stop putting out completely, or make the pump frequency go faster, slower, then fast again... . The pump usually only gets louder when it has no fuel in it. Also, if the flame sensor is out, it may give a very short cooldown cycle, if the heater is started right after that the heat on the heat exchanger can trigger the overheat sensor and trip the ovht. breaker. Take a look at those and let me know. + +Good luck, Brian" +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny",Something is wrong. Take it back apart. Something is out of place or missing. Did you use and adhesive?,Something is wrong. Take it back apart. Something is out of place or missing. Did you use and adhesive?,"Thanks Pappyson, very nice refresher after 43 years." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","No i didn not use any adhesive, is there by chance that a thermostat is stuck shut or a poppet valve bad ?","No i didn not use any adhesive, is there by chance that a thermostat is stuck shut or a poppet valve bad ?","No Bondo...unless you like to redo projects. + +Once you clean and prep the area, use a two part epoxy with a high strength filler to get most of the strakes' contours re-established. you can then use a fairing compound to clean up the surface." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","Time to pull the lower and check your work. You need to use adhesive when putting this pump together, Bellows adhesive works well. And lube. + + +Something is out of place in the pump. Impeller could not be tight enough against the wear plate, keyway could be missing, cover gasket out of place, ECT......","Time to pull the lower and check your work. You need to use adhesive when putting this pump together, Bellows adhesive works well. And lube. + + +Something is out of place in the pump. Impeller could not be tight enough against the wear plate, keyway could be missing, cover gasket out of place, ECT......","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + That's very possible, the early OMC had motors with lower comp #s too. + +I've found if you run in salt water (even a little) you should change the head gaskets every couple of years. +The salt residue builds up around the hottest spots and can lead to gasket failure. + +Click to expand... + + + +My engine was rebuild in 2008, and has only been used in on a lake since. Not many hours at all since the rebuild." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","Thanks for your help, i'll try all these things.","Thanks for your help, i'll try all these things.","as a rule, no corrosion....but you should make a note in your maintenance log and try to collect them when the bilge get clean. + +the biggest concern I see is they could find their way to the bilge pump float switch and cause some possible interference if it's not shielded..." +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny",that is very nice and i support the idea of the fourth comment about that.....good job,that is very nice and i support the idea of the fourth comment about that.....good job,"makomark said: + + + + The initial approach is to call Skeeter and talk with their tech support department - there may be a subassembly that isn't 'easy to see' that may make life easier....either to remove the existing fitting or to R&R the tank for the work. + +If that doesn't pan out, you need access to the top of the tank and an inspection port may be adequate to provide the required access. I'd focus on removing the old pickup and installing a new one vs adding another hole in the tank. + +Click to expand... + + +makomark, +Thank you for the reply. I did reach out to Skeeter toward the end of last year via their support channels on their website and forgot doing so, however I never received a response. I will definitely reach out to them again before proceeding, perhaps I can dig up a support phone number. + +As for removing the existing pickup, are there any methods of loosening the corrosion that will not risk damaging the structure of the poly tank?" +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny",If Chris at Dockside can't get you running online... NO ONE CAN!,If Chris at Dockside can't get you running online... NO ONE CAN!,If Chris at Dockside can't get you running online... NO ONE CAN! +"I have a 2001 yamaha 3.1l 200 vmax, i just replaced the impelloer and still not peeing , any thoughts on what might be wrong. Thanks danny","I just did mine and after i reinstalled everything no water . dropped the LU again and everything was correct. so instead of using the muffs I went to the river and everything worked fine. tried it again at home and no water. bottom line, i wasn't supplying the engine with enough water. I do have crappy water pressure and used the rectangle muffs and lost a lot of water. Go to a body of water and try it, you may be glad you did. + +kevin","I just did mine and after i reinstalled everything no water . dropped the LU again and everything was correct. so instead of using the muffs I went to the river and everything worked fine. tried it again at home and no water. bottom line, i wasn't supplying the engine with enough water. I do have crappy water pressure and used the rectangle muffs and lost a lot of water. Go to a body of water and try it, you may be glad you did. + +kevin",I reckon bad ground. When you tested sensor did you also test its feed? +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","Tensioner pulley on timing belt? + +Stuart","Tensioner pulley on timing belt? + +Stuart","The percentage varies greatly from tester to tester, so don't get caught up on the % too much. Here is a video I did on doing a leak down test on a Yamaha on the bench: https://youtu.be/dtETHoja8QI The think I like the most about leak down tests is being able to listen for where the leak is coming from - and really all you need for this is the compressed air, not the gauges. + +The leak can be either the intake valves, the exhaust valves, the rings or the head gasket. These are the four main places they can leak from. + +Stuart" +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","I can't run the video, but a new balancer in 2009 may not have been a permanent fix. I believe that Yamaha went through a few iterations of the balancer before they finally got it sorted.","I can't run the video, but a new balancer in 2009 may not have been a permanent fix. I believe that Yamaha went through a few iterations of the balancer before they finally got it sorted.","Sorry, it's hard to tell looking at the fuzzy old parts diagram. Maybe it's on the interior of the bottom cowling then." +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","Apologies, having a bit of trouble with the You Tube load, however the video is there. Hope you can access it to hear the noise. I suppose everything is possible, just surprised that it's a balance issue, again","Apologies, having a bit of trouble with the You Tube load, however the video is there. Hope you can access it to hear the noise. I suppose everything is possible, just surprised that it's a balance issue, again","Ayuh,.... Try it,... If it don't need raisin', or trimmin', ya don't need the trim, 'n tilt unit,..." +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","Can't run that one either sorry. It may not be anything to do with the balancer this time. Just saying that the first replacement may have been no better than the original unit. 30 to 60 minutes to pull it and check if there is any concern, although a 'mechanics stethoscope' may eliminate this anyway.","Can't run that one either sorry. It may not be anything to do with the balancer this time. Just saying that the first replacement may have been no better than the original unit. 30 to 60 minutes to pull it and check if there is any concern, although a 'mechanics stethoscope' may eliminate this anyway.",Thanks. +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","Apologies for the You Tube load, its titled Yamaha 150 engine noise. Appreciate the patience and continued interest in my issue.","Apologies for the You Tube load, its titled Yamaha 150 engine noise. Appreciate the patience and continued interest in my issue.","I wouldn't throw any money at it, you still need gaskets , seals etc.probably not worth it" +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeM0VHrfSoU + +Here is the link on this issue - appreciate the patience and continued interest","https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeM0VHrfSoU + +Here is the link on this issue - appreciate the patience and continued interest",http://www.agrisupply.com/equipment-supplies/buddy-bearings-c-5000004.php...these people sell buddy bearings with relief holes...mine came with the trailer in 1993 so i got no idea where they came from...i see on the web some people dont like the grease that gets on their hubs etc though...actually it gets all over the rim... +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","If it wads me I would be checking that balancer. It might not be, but it sounds a lot like one. Be aware that if you leave it you will either destroy the powerhead or at minimum need the powerhead removed for major clean up. I just checked and if you type 'yamaha balancer' into youtube you will pull up other recordings of the noise to compare with.","If it wads me I would be checking that balancer. It might not be, but it sounds a lot like one. Be aware that if you leave it you will either destroy the powerhead or at minimum need the powerhead removed for major clean up. I just checked and if you type 'yamaha balancer' into youtube you will pull up other recordings of the noise to compare with.","Rick, + +Thanks. Boat is a 25 ft C-Hawk which I keep on a lift most of the time. But during the winter, I trailer it to Hatteras and it is parked in a slip. Access to the bilge is extremely limited - everything I do in there is mostly by feel, thus the internal float switch. I did wire in the alarm as shown in the diagram I posted above, and it worked fine. BUT, then I looked at the wires to the alarm, and they are about 18 gauge - not nearly sufficient to carry the amps needed for the bilge pump. The bilge pump wires appear to be about 14 or 12 gauge. So, the situation is that I am interrupting the 14 gauge ground wire to the bilge pump with 18 gauge wires to the alarm. That is not good. So, now I need to find a work-around. The only thing I can think of is to find a heavy-duty alarm that will handle the amps. Any ideas on that? + + +My motivation for this is that I have an internal wash-down pump. Last winter off the Diamond Shoals, a 28 ft Grady White sank because the wash-down pump hose broke or came loose, and the occupants didn't know the boat was taking on water until it was too late. The were extemely lucky that a Coast Guard bouy tender was within 10 miles of them." +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","Thanks, in your experience do you think Yamaha would cover the repair, get that it's off warranty but the repair part was upgraded and its a recurring issue...just trying to map out a strategy to get this addressed. Reality....it was fixed once and the issue is back.","Thanks, in your experience do you think Yamaha would cover the repair, get that it's off warranty but the repair part was upgraded and its a recurring issue...just trying to map out a strategy to get this addressed. Reality....it was fixed once and the issue is back.",It's a johnson 8hp +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","My experience with Yamaha is that they won't help you at all unless you are in warranty. We are gradually getting rid of all our fleet Yamahas and replacing them with Hondas due to the numerous problems with design and quality in the 4 strokes we bought. Their 2 strokes were world class, but they totally dropped the ball on the 4 strokes as well as leaving their customers with huge repair bills on poorly designed engine parts. The good news for you is that the balancer replacement is just about the cheapest of the generic Yamaha problems to fix. There are a couple of choices - 1) get a mechanic to replace it (approx 1hr of work) 2) Replace it yourself (pretty simple task. Maybe 2 hours, but be careful to check the timing marks), 3) Pull it off and assuming it is faulty) grind off the remainder of the fibre gear that is failing and reinstall it. The engine doesn't need the balancer and this way it will never fail again. Yamaha apparently sell a 'commercial' version of that engine without the balancer, and I can't tell the difference between our two engines - one with balancer and one without. Might take 3 to 4 hours to do this yourself. Whatever route you go, the first thing is to pull the balancer and check it. It should only cost you an hour or so of labour to get it checked. If you carry on running it and the balancer is bad you will soon get to where you must pull the power head off and midsection apart. That is a good 8+ hours of labour and then you have to hope that you haven't wrecked anything due to low oil pressure.","My experience with Yamaha is that they won't help you at all unless you are in warranty. We are gradually getting rid of all our fleet Yamahas and replacing them with Hondas due to the numerous problems with design and quality in the 4 strokes we bought. Their 2 strokes were world class, but they totally dropped the ball on the 4 strokes as well as leaving their customers with huge repair bills on poorly designed engine parts. The good news for you is that the balancer replacement is just about the cheapest of the generic Yamaha problems to fix. There are a couple of choices - 1) get a mechanic to replace it (approx 1hr of work) 2) Replace it yourself (pretty simple task. Maybe 2 hours, but be careful to check the timing marks), 3) Pull it off and assuming it is faulty) grind off the remainder of the fibre gear that is failing and reinstall it. The engine doesn't need the balancer and this way it will never fail again. Yamaha apparently sell a 'commercial' version of that engine without the balancer, and I can't tell the difference between our two engines - one with balancer and one without. Might take 3 to 4 hours to do this yourself. Whatever route you go, the first thing is to pull the balancer and check it. It should only cost you an hour or so of labour to get it checked. If you carry on running it and the balancer is bad you will soon get to where you must pull the power head off and midsection apart. That is a good 8+ hours of labour and then you have to hope that you haven't wrecked anything due to low oil pressure.","Ayuh,.... This should be asked in the OMC Outboard forum, not here,..." +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","Simply great advice aliboy. I sure would like Yamaha to step up, the HB 03 version was installed but clearly its failed. So now the 04 version is supposed to be the fix....whats next the 05 version. So every few years the owner needs to step up and pay for this...smells like ? Apologies for the 'vent'. +I appreciate your guidance, at this point I just know that I can't keep using the boat as is.","Simply great advice aliboy. I sure would like Yamaha to step up, the HB 03 version was installed but clearly its failed. So now the 04 version is supposed to be the fix....whats next the 05 version. So every few years the owner needs to step up and pay for this...smells like ? Apologies for the 'vent'. +I appreciate your guidance, at this point I just know that I can't keep using the boat as is.","Thanks for replies, it was the alternator that was faulty: been replaced now. this thread can be closed." +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks",Please keep the thread updated with what you find. I know others who are wondering about their balancers and would like to hear how you get on and what version of balancers fail etc.,Please keep the thread updated with what you find. I know others who are wondering about their balancers and would like to hear how you get on and what version of balancers fail etc.,I wouldn't recommend anything in the engine compartment that's not designed to go in an engine compartment. Just not worth the risk. +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","FWIW, my experience with the balancers. I tried running my engine without the balancing shafts and experienced a pronounced vibration from idle up to around 1200 RPM. Not only in the engine but the boat itself. I ended up replacing the balancer, (04) series. I still have a slight vibration, but not as bad as without the balancers. Guess the effect of the balancers may vary from engine to engine?","FWIW, my experience with the balancers. I tried running my engine without the balancing shafts and experienced a pronounced vibration from idle up to around 1200 RPM. Not only in the engine but the boat itself. I ended up replacing the balancer, (04) series. I still have a slight vibration, but not as bad as without the balancers. Guess the effect of the balancers may vary from engine to engine?","I think you'll find you need a helluva lot more genset that 110KW...the 746 = 1 conversion is ""pure"" and doesn't account for any inefficiency...add to that the ""surge requirement and things get real big... + +On the other side of the coin, it is torque that is required to spin the propeller...that is why a ""smaller"" hp rated diesel can push the same hull at a given speed that a higher hp rated gasoline engine does.. + +factor in how the electric motor is rated too and I'm pretty sure you will find yet another factor. + +you may want to consider replacing your current tank and maybe doing some rearranging of what is in the hull. you need to be mindful of the center of gravity, too....just food for thought." +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks",That's interesting l71. You can't tell the difference between our two engines side by side even though one doesn't have the balancer operating. I suspect that maybe the vibration could be more noticeable on a smaller boat and maybe that is what you experienced. The good thing is that you can try running without it and then fit a new one if needed for very little labour.,That's interesting l71. You can't tell the difference between our two engines side by side even though one doesn't have the balancer operating. I suspect that maybe the vibration could be more noticeable on a smaller boat and maybe that is what you experienced. The good thing is that you can try running without it and then fit a new one if needed for very little labour.,"The question of whether spark jumps a gap of 3/8"" has not been answered yet ?" +"Hi all, on the weekend I ran the engine and identified this engine noise. From the video it appears that the noise gets louder towards the from of the engine. It's a 2005 150 and at first I thought this is the harmonic balancer, so I called Yamaha CS and they confirmed that this was replaced in 2009. So what could this be - appreciate the wisdom. You Tube vid is there. Thanks","Have it in at Yamaha dealer, tech doesn't think this noise is the balancer. Had a stethoscope on it and the noise is coming from upper rhs (when in the boat) of the front. Thinks it's a bearing. So not sure how to proceed.","Have it in at Yamaha dealer, tech doesn't think this noise is the balancer. Had a stethoscope on it and the noise is coming from upper rhs (when in the boat) of the front. Thinks it's a bearing. So not sure how to proceed.","I also have a T50 operating in saltwater.Cooling passage blockage is the biggest long term problem with these engines,otherwise these motors are tough as nails.Do a salt away flush and then every 6 months always fresh water flush.Are you mechanically minded?My second post and have'nt figured out how to post pics yet,but i do have of this very problem." +"Hi my yamaha 50hp 1995 4 stroke outboad is recently been set up on my boat and re fitted all New cables and now it wont idle, it starts and all works fine lo vely engine, ticks over lovely but when i take it out of gear the engine rpms go sky high obviously where i ave not adjusted something properly but the cable ends are now on full adjustment and it stilll wont return to idle when coming out of gear. + +any advice welcomed & appreciated Thanks","There is an idle stop screw that may be too advanced. When you adjust your cables back you are allowing the spring to return the throttle plate to the closed position, but the stop screw sets how closed is ""closed"". It is a small screw right on the carburettor. + +Stuart","There is an idle stop screw that may be too advanced. When you adjust your cables back you are allowing the spring to return the throttle plate to the closed position, but the stop screw sets how closed is ""closed"". It is a small screw right on the carburettor. + +Stuart",you are looking at a 35 year old motor...dont know about boat...agree with kimcrwbr1 on the survey....compression and fire and lower unit at a bare minimum must be checked....also look at wiring under the cowl..merc had an early problem with bad wire but it may have been corrected by 1979...the rig would have to be damn near free or i would not touch it...scrap price as you may have to part it out to recover some of your money..just my opinion... +"I've had my boat and motor since it was new and have never had any trouble with it until this year. Let me begin with the problem as it has progressed. + +Motor wouldnt start on the second trip of the year. It would crank but not fire. After trying to start it over the next 20 minutes, the motor fired. It ran flawlessly the rest of the day. Turning off and starting the motor numerous times. + +This past Monday I embarked on a weeklong camping trip in Voyageurs National Park, this was the fourth time it's been run this year. The motor started and ran great on the first day. After being docked overnight, the motor wouldn't start the next morning. I allowed it to sit for a half hour or so again, and it started. I ran it all day, starting and stopping it numerous times. The next morning it again wouldn't start even after allowing it to sit. This time it required a shot of starting fluid into the air intake. I ran it the rest of the day starting and stopping numerous times. The same thing happened the next day, with starting fluid to the rescue. My luck ran out the last day, with nothing working to get it started. My trip came to an early finish, having to be towed out of the park. + +As as a note, I only have run non-oxygenated fuel through the motor. I experienced no loss of power or a rough running motor. Only the motor cranking without firing. I am a novice boat mechanic. Any help would be appreciated to get me going again! There is lots of summer left.","If the motor wouldn't fire even for a short time even when you are spraying starting fluid in, it is likely to be either spark or possibly even water coming through a blow head gasket. Watch this video and start to isolate each system to confirm it is working. If you step through methodically you will find the problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXNXzs5Ggjs In fact the outboard used in this video has blown head gasket so you'll see the symptoms of that. + +Stuart","If the motor wouldn't fire even for a short time even when you are spraying starting fluid in, it is likely to be either spark or possibly even water coming through a blow head gasket. Watch this video and start to isolate each system to confirm it is working. If you step through methodically you will find the problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXNXzs5Ggjs In fact the outboard used in this video has blown head gasket so you'll see the symptoms of that. + +Stuart","ETV. Electronic Throttle Valve. + +What help is it that you need?" +"I've had my boat and motor since it was new and have never had any trouble with it until this year. Let me begin with the problem as it has progressed. + +Motor wouldnt start on the second trip of the year. It would crank but not fire. After trying to start it over the next 20 minutes, the motor fired. It ran flawlessly the rest of the day. Turning off and starting the motor numerous times. + +This past Monday I embarked on a weeklong camping trip in Voyageurs National Park, this was the fourth time it's been run this year. The motor started and ran great on the first day. After being docked overnight, the motor wouldn't start the next morning. I allowed it to sit for a half hour or so again, and it started. I ran it all day, starting and stopping it numerous times. The next morning it again wouldn't start even after allowing it to sit. This time it required a shot of starting fluid into the air intake. I ran it the rest of the day starting and stopping numerous times. The same thing happened the next day, with starting fluid to the rescue. My luck ran out the last day, with nothing working to get it started. My trip came to an early finish, having to be towed out of the park. + +As as a note, I only have run non-oxygenated fuel through the motor. I experienced no loss of power or a rough running motor. Only the motor cranking without firing. I am a novice boat mechanic. Any help would be appreciated to get me going again! There is lots of summer left.",I've checked the compression and all 4 cylinders and there is good compression on them all. I have found an issue with the spark plugs. New ones will be here tomorrow. Could it just have been that?,I've checked the compression and all 4 cylinders and there is good compression on them all. I have found an issue with the spark plugs. New ones will be here tomorrow. Could it just have been that?,"i rebuild more yamaha and honda carbs then the rest + +you can use the 8hp carb, it has a real choke + +the primer valve system was for emmisions!" +"I've had my boat and motor since it was new and have never had any trouble with it until this year. Let me begin with the problem as it has progressed. + +Motor wouldnt start on the second trip of the year. It would crank but not fire. After trying to start it over the next 20 minutes, the motor fired. It ran flawlessly the rest of the day. Turning off and starting the motor numerous times. + +This past Monday I embarked on a weeklong camping trip in Voyageurs National Park, this was the fourth time it's been run this year. The motor started and ran great on the first day. After being docked overnight, the motor wouldn't start the next morning. I allowed it to sit for a half hour or so again, and it started. I ran it all day, starting and stopping it numerous times. The next morning it again wouldn't start even after allowing it to sit. This time it required a shot of starting fluid into the air intake. I ran it the rest of the day starting and stopping numerous times. The same thing happened the next day, with starting fluid to the rescue. My luck ran out the last day, with nothing working to get it started. My trip came to an early finish, having to be towed out of the park. + +As as a note, I only have run non-oxygenated fuel through the motor. I experienced no loss of power or a rough running motor. Only the motor cranking without firing. I am a novice boat mechanic. Any help would be appreciated to get me going again! There is lots of summer left.","It could well be. What problem did you discover with the plugs? + +Stuart","It could well be. What problem did you discover with the plugs? + +Stuart","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + This is a link to a trouble shooting guide that will help you pin point your problems. + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/doc...t.xml&backgroundColor=000000&showFlipBtn=true + +Click to expand... + + + +Great resource, thanks." +"I've had my boat and motor since it was new and have never had any trouble with it until this year. Let me begin with the problem as it has progressed. + +Motor wouldnt start on the second trip of the year. It would crank but not fire. After trying to start it over the next 20 minutes, the motor fired. It ran flawlessly the rest of the day. Turning off and starting the motor numerous times. + +This past Monday I embarked on a weeklong camping trip in Voyageurs National Park, this was the fourth time it's been run this year. The motor started and ran great on the first day. After being docked overnight, the motor wouldn't start the next morning. I allowed it to sit for a half hour or so again, and it started. I ran it all day, starting and stopping it numerous times. The next morning it again wouldn't start even after allowing it to sit. This time it required a shot of starting fluid into the air intake. I ran it the rest of the day starting and stopping numerous times. The same thing happened the next day, with starting fluid to the rescue. My luck ran out the last day, with nothing working to get it started. My trip came to an early finish, having to be towed out of the park. + +As as a note, I only have run non-oxygenated fuel through the motor. I experienced no loss of power or a rough running motor. Only the motor cranking without firing. I am a novice boat mechanic. Any help would be appreciated to get me going again! There is lots of summer left.","When it doesn't start you need to find out exactly what's missing, fuel or sparks? First is to check if you have sparks and make sure you have sparks to all the spark plugs. if you do then it's fuel related. If it's fuel related then it could be an intermittent voltage issue going into the fuel pump. Most of the time if it's voltage related it's a lose connection at the key switch where it sends the voltage to control the EFI relay on the motor. I have this same issue with my Suzuki four stroke and I just fixed it. it turned out it was a loose connection at the power wire going to the EFI relay on the motor. The symptoms would be no sparks to all the plugs, no power to the fuel pump and no power to the buzzer. Good luck.","When it doesn't start you need to find out exactly what's missing, fuel or sparks? First is to check if you have sparks and make sure you have sparks to all the spark plugs. if you do then it's fuel related. If it's fuel related then it could be an intermittent voltage issue going into the fuel pump. Most of the time if it's voltage related it's a lose connection at the key switch where it sends the voltage to control the EFI relay on the motor. I have this same issue with my Suzuki four stroke and I just fixed it. it turned out it was a loose connection at the power wire going to the EFI relay on the motor. The symptoms would be no sparks to all the plugs, no power to the fuel pump and no power to the buzzer. Good luck.",Had a friend look at it and found that the port side head gasket was blown. +"I had to take my boat off the water early today due to my volt meter indicating 18 volts, engine is a '06 F150 TXR. Without the eng running the digital multi-meter on the batts read 12.8 volts each individually. Started the eng on each batt individually and each read 13.7 with eng running. However, each eng run test the volt meter read 18 volts, the eng was at idol. Not sure if its important the tach is working and follows throttle input. Is there a better way to test the rectifier/regulator and/or gauge?","Hmmm 18V is very high, you expect between 13.8V and 14.2V to be coming from the regulator. Can I just confirm, when you refer to the volt meter that reads 18V, is this the same multimeter you tested the battery with or the volt meter on the dash? + +Stuart","Hmmm 18V is very high, you expect between 13.8V and 14.2V to be coming from the regulator. Can I just confirm, when you refer to the volt meter that reads 18V, is this the same multimeter you tested the battery with or the volt meter on the dash? + +Stuart", +"I had to take my boat off the water early today due to my volt meter indicating 18 volts, engine is a '06 F150 TXR. Without the eng running the digital multi-meter on the batts read 12.8 volts each individually. Started the eng on each batt individually and each read 13.7 with eng running. However, each eng run test the volt meter read 18 volts, the eng was at idol. Not sure if its important the tach is working and follows throttle input. Is there a better way to test the rectifier/regulator and/or gauge?","Thanks for the reply and I can see where it could seem a little confusing, yes the 18 volt reading was always at the Faria combo fuel/volt gauge. So, as a follow-up, checked/cleaned grounds as needed up to the boats Faria combo fuel/volt gauge, ran the motor, Faria volt meter 18 volts. Removed gauge disconnected volt lead from gauge, connected multi-meter to volt lead wire and grounded to the gauge post, started engine multi-meter read 13.7, put load on it 13.7-14 VDC ... yeah! Have come to the conclusion that I don't like comb gauges. Now I have to buy this gauge for the volt meter knowing my fuel level probe is bad, but a lot better than buying a rectifier/regulator.","Thanks for the reply and I can see where it could seem a little confusing, yes the 18 volt reading was always at the Faria combo fuel/volt gauge. So, as a follow-up, checked/cleaned grounds as needed up to the boats Faria combo fuel/volt gauge, ran the motor, Faria volt meter 18 volts. Removed gauge disconnected volt lead from gauge, connected multi-meter to volt lead wire and grounded to the gauge post, started engine multi-meter read 13.7, put load on it 13.7-14 VDC ... yeah! Have come to the conclusion that I don't like comb gauges. Now I have to buy this gauge for the volt meter knowing my fuel level probe is bad, but a lot better than buying a rectifier/regulator.","justme .thanks ,,I understand ,,,no grease is leaking or running out of motor + +kimcrw .... I understand ...thanks" +"I had to take my boat off the water early today due to my volt meter indicating 18 volts, engine is a '06 F150 TXR. Without the eng running the digital multi-meter on the batts read 12.8 volts each individually. Started the eng on each batt individually and each read 13.7 with eng running. However, each eng run test the volt meter read 18 volts, the eng was at idol. Not sure if its important the tach is working and follows throttle input. Is there a better way to test the rectifier/regulator and/or gauge?",if the actual voltage was correct it should not have damaged the probe...,if the actual voltage was correct it should not have damaged the probe...,"Thanks for the advise @ ricardomarine, +I will repost on Honda Forum" +"I had to take my boat off the water early today due to my volt meter indicating 18 volts, engine is a '06 F150 TXR. Without the eng running the digital multi-meter on the batts read 12.8 volts each individually. Started the eng on each batt individually and each read 13.7 with eng running. However, each eng run test the volt meter read 18 volts, the eng was at idol. Not sure if its important the tach is working and follows throttle input. Is there a better way to test the rectifier/regulator and/or gauge?",Your voltage regulator is dead. Get ready to buy a new rectifier/regulator.,Your voltage regulator is dead. Get ready to buy a new rectifier/regulator.,Petit Easypoxy worked extremely well for me. +"Before I get started let me take responsibility by saying my '92 40 hp Yamaha will not crank because I left gas in it for a couple of years without properly preparing it for storage. Nobody's fault but mine. Now that I'm trying to get it back on the water it is kicking my butt. The engine turns over fine it just will not fire up. +Here is what I have done so far. +Cleaned out portable gas tank and refilled with fresh gas, oil and Seafoam. +Replaced gas line and primer bulb assembly. +Checked and cleaned fuel filter. (was not dirty) +Replaced spark plugs. +Removed, cleaned and reinstalled fuel pump. +Removed all 3 carburetor bowl drain plugs and cleaned bowls out with carb and choke cleaner. +Removed all 3 carburetors, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled and reinstalled. (top one was ok, middle and bottom were full of ""varnish"") +I tried cranking after each one of these procedures with no luck. It did run for a couple of seconds after spraying carb and choke cleaner into the carbs. +Any help would greatly be appreciated. +THANKS",Got my motor back up and going.,Got my motor back up and going.,"Ayuh,.... We see it All the time at iboats too... +It usually has to do with somebody lookin' at an ole OMC Stringer drive, or a Merc 470... Cheap of course... + +There's Nothin' you can say that'll steer 'em away for pizzin' their money into a bottomless pit..." +"Hello, I have never used this forum before so please let me know if I should have done something differently regarding this post. The reason I am posting here is because I have a question about a small Yamaha outboard that I recently purchased. + +The motor is a 2.5 hp 4-stroke. I got it new, and it only has about 15 hours on it. I followed the manual's break-in instructions and changed the oil and gear lube afterwards. + +It's been running ok, but on Saturday I had been using it at full speed for about 25 minutes when I hit something (a log or something) so I used the kill switch to shut it off. Then when I tried to restart it, it would not start at all. Eventually, about an hour later, I got it to start, and then it ran fine back to the dock, but I haven't used it since. Could I have maybe just flooded the engine by killing it while it was hot, or could there be some other problem? + +Initially when it would not start, I started cranking the heck out of trying to get it to start. I later read that it's not good to crank a motor more than a couple times every two minutes or it could cause some sort of damage. Is that true? Can you damage a motor by cranking it like a mad man? + +Thanks to anyone who can give some advice! + +Ian","Did the motor flip up when you hit the log? That will send the sump oil and fuel in the carb everywhere and it can take a while to settle again. I wouldn't worry too much about it if no physical damaged to the leg or bracket occurred. + +Lots of cranking can overheat the starter motor, but isn't really a problem for the motor itself provided it has oil. + +Stuart","Did the motor flip up when you hit the log? That will send the sump oil and fuel in the carb everywhere and it can take a while to settle again. I wouldn't worry too much about it if no physical damaged to the leg or bracket occurred. + +Lots of cranking can overheat the starter motor, but isn't really a problem for the motor itself provided it has oil. + +Stuart",We'll be right back with your engine and drive information. +"Hello, I have never used this forum before so please let me know if I should have done something differently regarding this post. The reason I am posting here is because I have a question about a small Yamaha outboard that I recently purchased. + +The motor is a 2.5 hp 4-stroke. I got it new, and it only has about 15 hours on it. I followed the manual's break-in instructions and changed the oil and gear lube afterwards. + +It's been running ok, but on Saturday I had been using it at full speed for about 25 minutes when I hit something (a log or something) so I used the kill switch to shut it off. Then when I tried to restart it, it would not start at all. Eventually, about an hour later, I got it to start, and then it ran fine back to the dock, but I haven't used it since. Could I have maybe just flooded the engine by killing it while it was hot, or could there be some other problem? + +Initially when it would not start, I started cranking the heck out of trying to get it to start. I later read that it's not good to crank a motor more than a couple times every two minutes or it could cause some sort of damage. Is that true? Can you damage a motor by cranking it like a mad man? + +Thanks to anyone who can give some advice! + +Ian","Yes, it definitely did flip up. I think it actually locked into the upright position, which it why I killed it immediately. Good to know that was most likely the problem. + +Thanks for answering!","Yes, it definitely did flip up. I think it actually locked into the upright position, which it why I killed it immediately. Good to know that was most likely the problem. + +Thanks for answering!",Pull the dip tubes out of the fuel tank and look for cracks or loose tubes. +"Yamaha 100HP 4 stroke. Motor turned over twice and tried to start. The third time and consequently thereafter, the starter ticks, and that's it.The gear to the starter engages to the fly wheel, but wont turn over. Both batteries are at full strength",Check the power cables between the battery and engine. Especially the ends where the connector lugs are crimped on under the heat shrink. Also check your battery switch if there is one fitted.,Check the power cables between the battery and engine. Especially the ends where the connector lugs are crimped on under the heat shrink. Also check your battery switch if there is one fitted.,"Didn't think about the sunlight angle but the side with the most growth was in the shade. And for the independent events, had to be one hell of an event to keep two identical intakes that are 2 feet apart so different. Thats my puzzle. One intake totally covered, the other not one single barnacle. I'm gettin' a bald spot from scratching my head????" +"Yamaha 100HP 4 stroke. Motor turned over twice and tried to start. The third time and consequently thereafter, the starter ticks, and that's it.The gear to the starter engages to the fly wheel, but wont turn over. Both batteries are at full strength","Sometimes that gear can also spin up and bind and therefore not drop down again. A gentle tap with a hammer will get it to drop down if that is what's happened. + +Stuart","Sometimes that gear can also spin up and bind and therefore not drop down again. A gentle tap with a hammer will get it to drop down if that is what's happened. + +Stuart","Fishhawaii said: + + + + Hawaii +Thanks. + +Click to expand... + + +Just a little too far for me to travel to....." +1984 Mariner (Yamaha) compression 120 both cylinders Cab clean New fuel pump. This model both cylinder fire together. Remove one plug wire motor starts move same coil wire to second cylinder motor will still start. If I use second coil wire it will not start on either cylinder. Replaced coil and power pack. No change Wire connections good Key way good. Put timing light on plug wire an it show both working on both cylinders Any Idea,"When you say won't start, what does it sound like as it tries to start? Is the timing set correct? It may be too advanced and stoping the piston from passing top dead centre. + +Stuart","When you say won't start, what does it sound like as it tries to start? Is the timing set correct? It may be too advanced and stoping the piston from passing top dead centre. + +Stuart","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,..... Then I'd just call it ""Homemade"", 'n move on,..... + +Click to expand... + + + +I'm gonna have to register it like that. But my OCD wants to know the name of the trailer brand lol." +1984 Mariner (Yamaha) compression 120 both cylinders Cab clean New fuel pump. This model both cylinder fire together. Remove one plug wire motor starts move same coil wire to second cylinder motor will still start. If I use second coil wire it will not start on either cylinder. Replaced coil and power pack. No change Wire connections good Key way good. Put timing light on plug wire an it show both working on both cylinders Any Idea,"DangarStu said: + + + + When you say won't start, what does it sound like as it tries to start? Is the timing set correct? It may be too advanced and stoping the piston from passing top dead centre. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +It will but only run about 1/2 speed Coil is controlled by one wire orange. Both plug wires off coil fire together. One wire will crank motor on either plug. The second wire will not do anything . Think coil is bad so replaced it No change. Timeing light shows it is fireing","DangarStu said: + + + + When you say won't start, what does it sound like as it tries to start? Is the timing set correct? It may be too advanced and stoping the piston from passing top dead centre. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +It will but only run about 1/2 speed Coil is controlled by one wire orange. Both plug wires off coil fire together. One wire will crank motor on either plug. The second wire will not do anything . Think coil is bad so replaced it No change. Timeing light shows it is fireing",OK good thanks again Bondo +1984 Mariner (Yamaha) compression 120 both cylinders Cab clean New fuel pump. This model both cylinder fire together. Remove one plug wire motor starts move same coil wire to second cylinder motor will still start. If I use second coil wire it will not start on either cylinder. Replaced coil and power pack. No change Wire connections good Key way good. Put timing light on plug wire an it show both working on both cylinders Any Idea,"Are you saying that model engines fires both plugs together so fires them twice per stroke, or that the two pistons are in phase with each other? I assume that you mean it fires both cylinders twice per stroke? If you have spark on both leads it sounds like a timing issue but I don't know that model engine.","Are you saying that model engines fires both plugs together so fires them twice per stroke, or that the two pistons are in phase with each other? I assume that you mean it fires both cylinders twice per stroke? If you have spark on both leads it sounds like a timing issue but I don't know that model engine.",Check your ground wire. Has to be clean and secure. +Outboard runs fine but doesnt seem to be peeing any water out of the tell tale. I s***** some mono through the tell tale and where the motor connects to the impeller housing. And shot the house through both ends to make sure it wasn't clogged. Impeller looked a little warped but not too bad. Should a pretty good stream be coming out when I hook up to ear muffs and let it rev up a bit? Perhaps a new impeller with straight blades makes all the difference. I imagine these small outboards have no alarm when they overheat?,"The impeller blades are always curved, that is an essential part of their operation. So when you put the house up the pipe that connects to the water pump, did water come out the tell tale then? Does the impeller feel like it is spinning on the shaft or locked solidly (as it should be)? Have you tried it in a tub of water? Sometimes ear muffs can be slightly out of position and not feel enough water in. + +Stuart","The impeller blades are always curved, that is an essential part of their operation. So when you put the house up the pipe that connects to the water pump, did water come out the tell tale then? Does the impeller feel like it is spinning on the shaft or locked solidly (as it should be)? Have you tried it in a tub of water? Sometimes ear muffs can be slightly out of position and not feel enough water in. + +Stuart","makomark said: + + + + Never seen any AL wire in a factory harness so don't know what caused that...glad you have a solution to go forward with... + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah, the wires fell apart when I touched them and not apart more like fell into dust. +ALUMINUM WIRES; Something to look out for, Boys and Girls! + +All things considered, The above Cure is temporary until I get time to R/R the Whole Engine wiring harness, Senders and Distributor to match the Starboard side engine" +Outboard runs fine but doesnt seem to be peeing any water out of the tell tale. I s***** some mono through the tell tale and where the motor connects to the impeller housing. And shot the house through both ends to make sure it wasn't clogged. Impeller looked a little warped but not too bad. Should a pretty good stream be coming out when I hook up to ear muffs and let it rev up a bit? Perhaps a new impeller with straight blades makes all the difference. I imagine these small outboards have no alarm when they overheat?,"DangarStu said: + + + + The impeller blades are always curved, that is an essential part of their operation. So when you put the house up the pipe that connects to the water pump, did water come out the tell tale then? Does the impeller feel like it is spinning on the shaft or locked solidly (as it should be)? Have you tried it in a tub of water? Sometimes ear muffs can be slightly out of position and not feel enough water in. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Yeah, I put the hose up to the tell tale and had water coming through that pipe to the water pump. Today I took the plate off on the back of the engine and cleaned the thermostat and that housing but that didnt seem to be the issue. I did run it in a tub of water today instead of ear muffs to see if that could have been it. Maybe it is the impeller or perhaps I didn't connect that tube into the water pump housing putting it back together. I'll take it apart again and see if I can get it. Today it was just hot steam coming out of the tell tale after a few minutes of running... frustrating. Plus I definitely screwed up the F/N/R shifting settings on the engine.","DangarStu said: + + + + The impeller blades are always curved, that is an essential part of their operation. So when you put the house up the pipe that connects to the water pump, did water come out the tell tale then? Does the impeller feel like it is spinning on the shaft or locked solidly (as it should be)? Have you tried it in a tub of water? Sometimes ear muffs can be slightly out of position and not feel enough water in. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Yeah, I put the hose up to the tell tale and had water coming through that pipe to the water pump. Today I took the plate off on the back of the engine and cleaned the thermostat and that housing but that didnt seem to be the issue. I did run it in a tub of water today instead of ear muffs to see if that could have been it. Maybe it is the impeller or perhaps I didn't connect that tube into the water pump housing putting it back together. I'll take it apart again and see if I can get it. Today it was just hot steam coming out of the tell tale after a few minutes of running... frustrating. Plus I definitely screwed up the F/N/R shifting settings on the engine.","That sounds okay as far as it goes. Definitely get rid of the tape. However, your basic problem is that you don't know what kind of wire was used for the various connections and splices. You want to use only tin plated multi-strand wire. You can tell if it is tin plated because each individual strand will be a dull silver. Copper wire corrodes in a marine environment and the individual strands will turn black or a very dark grey. Don Casey had a good write up on all this. See http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/electrical-connections.asp" +Outboard runs fine but doesnt seem to be peeing any water out of the tell tale. I s***** some mono through the tell tale and where the motor connects to the impeller housing. And shot the house through both ends to make sure it wasn't clogged. Impeller looked a little warped but not too bad. Should a pretty good stream be coming out when I hook up to ear muffs and let it rev up a bit? Perhaps a new impeller with straight blades makes all the difference. I imagine these small outboards have no alarm when they overheat?,"Yes, in some outboards it can be really tricky to get the water pipe to mate cleanly with the water pump. Once I also had the rubber grommet get pushed into the pipe so be really careful with that connection. Try shining a torch in until the gap is too small to see. An extra pair of hands really helps here. + +Stuart","Yes, in some outboards it can be really tricky to get the water pipe to mate cleanly with the water pump. Once I also had the rubber grommet get pushed into the pipe so be really careful with that connection. Try shining a torch in until the gap is too small to see. An extra pair of hands really helps here. + +Stuart",If the water the boat sits in isn't frozen then the engine is probably ok +Outboard runs fine but doesnt seem to be peeing any water out of the tell tale. I s***** some mono through the tell tale and where the motor connects to the impeller housing. And shot the house through both ends to make sure it wasn't clogged. Impeller looked a little warped but not too bad. Should a pretty good stream be coming out when I hook up to ear muffs and let it rev up a bit? Perhaps a new impeller with straight blades makes all the difference. I imagine these small outboards have no alarm when they overheat?,"DangarStu said: + + + + Yes, in some outboards it can be really tricky to get the water pipe to mate cleanly with the water pump. Once I also had the rubber grommet get pushed into the pipe so be really careful with that connection. Try shining a torch in until the gap is too small to see. An extra pair of hands really helps here. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks Stuart. I took it back apart to find the impeller had broken apart and clogged the outtake. I think I put it in right (seems to only go on one way with the chuck) but didn't lube it up with anything, so maybe that was the issue. Makes sense as I thought I saw a brief stream for a second or two after I put it back together the first time.","DangarStu said: + + + + Yes, in some outboards it can be really tricky to get the water pipe to mate cleanly with the water pump. Once I also had the rubber grommet get pushed into the pipe so be really careful with that connection. Try shining a torch in until the gap is too small to see. An extra pair of hands really helps here. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks Stuart. I took it back apart to find the impeller had broken apart and clogged the outtake. I think I put it in right (seems to only go on one way with the chuck) but didn't lube it up with anything, so maybe that was the issue. Makes sense as I thought I saw a brief stream for a second or two after I put it back together the first time.","no, I havent had a chance to work with it yet, but I am going to give all of your suggestions to my brother and see if we cant get it fixed. Thank you guys so much for taking the time to try and help me, This forum is GREAT!!!" +Outboard runs fine but doesnt seem to be peeing any water out of the tell tale. I s***** some mono through the tell tale and where the motor connects to the impeller housing. And shot the house through both ends to make sure it wasn't clogged. Impeller looked a little warped but not too bad. Should a pretty good stream be coming out when I hook up to ear muffs and let it rev up a bit? Perhaps a new impeller with straight blades makes all the difference. I imagine these small outboards have no alarm when they overheat?,"Well, at least you've found the problem. Here is a vid I did on installing an impeller that may help: https://youtu.be/IqNk4P94wOs The other main trick is to make sure the blades of the impeller are bent in the correct direction for the rotation of your motor. + +Stuart","Well, at least you've found the problem. Here is a vid I did on installing an impeller that may help: https://youtu.be/IqNk4P94wOs The other main trick is to make sure the blades of the impeller are bent in the correct direction for the rotation of your motor. + +Stuart","el3bgames, Why don't you get the hell off of this site ?? You're not wanted !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!" +Outboard runs fine but doesnt seem to be peeing any water out of the tell tale. I s***** some mono through the tell tale and where the motor connects to the impeller housing. And shot the house through both ends to make sure it wasn't clogged. Impeller looked a little warped but not too bad. Should a pretty good stream be coming out when I hook up to ear muffs and let it rev up a bit? Perhaps a new impeller with straight blades makes all the difference. I imagine these small outboards have no alarm when they overheat?,"DangarStu said: + + + + Well, at least you've found the problem. Here is a vid I did on installing an impeller that may help: https://youtu.be/IqNk4P94wOs The other main trick is to make sure the blades of the impeller are bent in the correct direction for the rotation of your motor. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Got the new waterpump in the mail and installed it this afternoon. Went to start up the motor and there was still no water from the tell tale. Hot steam or smoke started to come out after a few minutes and I just shut it off. Took it apart thinking I screwed something up but everything looked good. I then sprayed the hose into the water intake tube and watched water come out of the tell tale. One thing I did notice with my motor is that the tube just slides into that housing without any rubber grommet. Perhaps that is needed and someone long ago never replaced it when they did the water pump. If my thermostat was shot, wouldn't water still come out of the tell tale? Maybe the next step is to try to get an air compressor to spray out the whole system in case something is clogged. A little baffled at this point.","DangarStu said: + + + + Well, at least you've found the problem. Here is a vid I did on installing an impeller that may help: https://youtu.be/IqNk4P94wOs The other main trick is to make sure the blades of the impeller are bent in the correct direction for the rotation of your motor. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Got the new waterpump in the mail and installed it this afternoon. Went to start up the motor and there was still no water from the tell tale. Hot steam or smoke started to come out after a few minutes and I just shut it off. Took it apart thinking I screwed something up but everything looked good. I then sprayed the hose into the water intake tube and watched water come out of the tell tale. One thing I did notice with my motor is that the tube just slides into that housing without any rubber grommet. Perhaps that is needed and someone long ago never replaced it when they did the water pump. If my thermostat was shot, wouldn't water still come out of the tell tale? Maybe the next step is to try to get an air compressor to spray out the whole system in case something is clogged. A little baffled at this point.",What about the finish of the panel....keep it in polished aluminum or go to gloss black? +Outboard runs fine but doesnt seem to be peeing any water out of the tell tale. I s***** some mono through the tell tale and where the motor connects to the impeller housing. And shot the house through both ends to make sure it wasn't clogged. Impeller looked a little warped but not too bad. Should a pretty good stream be coming out when I hook up to ear muffs and let it rev up a bit? Perhaps a new impeller with straight blades makes all the difference. I imagine these small outboards have no alarm when they overheat?,"Some compressed air is a good idea, if you can blow the system backwards as you don't want to lodge any rubber further in. The parts breakdown for your motor will show you if there is a seal of any description required, but to be honest, if it is sliding in cleanly, most the of the water is still going to enter the cooling system if it isn't blocked. Can you see whether it is mating correctly as you put the leg back on or does it disappear out of sight before they connect? + +Stuart","Some compressed air is a good idea, if you can blow the system backwards as you don't want to lodge any rubber further in. The parts breakdown for your motor will show you if there is a seal of any description required, but to be honest, if it is sliding in cleanly, most the of the water is still going to enter the cooling system if it isn't blocked. Can you see whether it is mating correctly as you put the leg back on or does it disappear out of sight before they connect? + +Stuart","As Bill said, get the adaptor. They are univerally available - auto part store, Wal-Mart, fish & tackle stores, etc. Make sure that the white wire from the trailer harness plug is well grounded on the frame - no corrosion. Don't try to do a direct connect because it's easy to screw up the electrical on your Ford and blow fuses. BTW - the brake light signal comes down through your turn signal circuits." +Outboard runs fine but doesnt seem to be peeing any water out of the tell tale. I s***** some mono through the tell tale and where the motor connects to the impeller housing. And shot the house through both ends to make sure it wasn't clogged. Impeller looked a little warped but not too bad. Should a pretty good stream be coming out when I hook up to ear muffs and let it rev up a bit? Perhaps a new impeller with straight blades makes all the difference. I imagine these small outboards have no alarm when they overheat?,"Yeah, I am pretty sure it is sliding into the water pump housing.... hard to know for 100% as you lose sight just before they connect.","Yeah, I am pretty sure it is sliding into the water pump housing.... hard to know for 100% as you lose sight just before they connect.",Could be the high pressure pump is inop. Have you listened to see if the pump runs when the key is turned on? +"Hi all, recently purhassed my first boat with a 40HP 2T Yamaha outboard. I took it out yesterday for the first time and I noticed a lot of smoke coming into the boat while on the move at low speed. When I got home I flushed the engine in a barrel I've noticed exhaust and cooling water coming out from the hole I'm pointing at in the attached video. I've downloaded a repair manual but didn't have answer for my question, watched dozens of youtube videos but still no answer. My question is: what is that port for? Any help much appreciated. + + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRG7mbsfEZg","The port you point to is just for monitoring your exhaust. A bit like the way that a tell tale shows you a sample of the water coming through your cooling system. I'm not 100% sure about this, but I imagine it also has to do with allowing the air to escape from the muffler as the leg is lowered into the water. + +Stuart","The port you point to is just for monitoring your exhaust. A bit like the way that a tell tale shows you a sample of the water coming through your cooling system. I'm not 100% sure about this, but I imagine it also has to do with allowing the air to escape from the muffler as the leg is lowered into the water. + +Stuart","racerone said: + + + + Material does NOT matter for that application.----Stainless / brass / galvanized will all work just fine here. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks! Bought Stainless." +"Hi all, recently purhassed my first boat with a 40HP 2T Yamaha outboard. I took it out yesterday for the first time and I noticed a lot of smoke coming into the boat while on the move at low speed. When I got home I flushed the engine in a barrel I've noticed exhaust and cooling water coming out from the hole I'm pointing at in the attached video. I've downloaded a repair manual but didn't have answer for my question, watched dozens of youtube videos but still no answer. My question is: what is that port for? Any help much appreciated. + + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRG7mbsfEZg",Thanks Stuart!,Thanks Stuart!,"rotary, seems the knuckle is loose. +screws are tight may need too shim the screw if its a shoulder type. 1992 model" +"Hi guys. Hey I just got a this motor a few weeks ago and have been told that it is a good idea to replace the impeller. It's a 1991 motor, Code 682 C S/N 089476 This motor is C l e a n, very low hours, I don't know how many hours are on it nor when it was last used or how often. This persons father had passed away so he didn't know anything about it. Like to know anymore info about the motor, tips and tricks if you have them. Thanks","Not sure what types of tips and tricks you are after, but here is a vid I did on changing the impeller on my larger Yamaha: https://youtu.be/IqNk4P94wOs + +Let me know if there is anything specific you are having trouble with, +Stuart","Not sure what types of tips and tricks you are after, but here is a vid I did on changing the impeller on my larger Yamaha: https://youtu.be/IqNk4P94wOs + +Let me know if there is anything specific you are having trouble with, +Stuart",These dings aren't very big. I was reading an article about using auto paint pens. Anybody have experience with these? They might not be very durable. We don't walk on cars. +"My tilt and trim on my Yamaha 90tlr is giving me problems. It works intermittently. When is is not working I get a clicking sound with either switch at the motor or the throttle controls, up or down. I can tap the side of the housing and it will work perfectly for a while. Do I need to replace trim motor?","Sounds like the brushes in the electric motor to me. Be careful tapping it though, the magnets inside can be cracked. + +Stuart","Sounds like the brushes in the electric motor to me. Be careful tapping it though, the magnets inside can be cracked. + +Stuart",Another possibility is that you have a weak ground connection either at the battery or at the wires to the engine block. Use a set of jumper cables to bypass the Guest switch and establish a good ground on the block. +what % is acceptable before service is required? what could cause the leak,"The percentage varies greatly from tester to tester, so don't get caught up on the % too much. Here is a video I did on doing a leak down test on a Yamaha on the bench: https://youtu.be/dtETHoja8QI The think I like the most about leak down tests is being able to listen for where the leak is coming from - and really all you need for this is the compressed air, not the gauges. + +The leak can be either the intake valves, the exhaust valves, the rings or the head gasket. These are the four main places they can leak from. + +Stuart","The percentage varies greatly from tester to tester, so don't get caught up on the % too much. Here is a video I did on doing a leak down test on a Yamaha on the bench: https://youtu.be/dtETHoja8QI The think I like the most about leak down tests is being able to listen for where the leak is coming from - and really all you need for this is the compressed air, not the gauges. + +The leak can be either the intake valves, the exhaust valves, the rings or the head gasket. These are the four main places they can leak from. + +Stuart","hairdresser100 said: + + + + I'm stumped. + +My boat has twin 1989 Yamaha 200 HP outboards. When running in the Ocean I go through two rips that make the ocean violent and when I go through them one motor bogs down, I loose RPM but never stalls. I slow down from 4000 to 2500 for 15 seconds then get back up to 4000. This may happen two or three times.I believe it's a fuel issue. + +Once out of the rips and into the smooth it does not happen. + +I've already looked into the filters/fuel tank/anit-S valve and all looked good + +Could a carb float or fuel pump do this? + +Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +I'm not expert on anything and certainly not a marine mechanic. I'm mechanical in nature, working on cars since the age of 10 but fairly new to the boating world. + +That being said, I fought a VERY similar issue to yours, unfortunately, for a couple of years, before it took a turn for the worse and I found a good Yamaha mech that actually knew what he was doing, instead of just sounding like he did. + +So, My engine and boat is a 1992 Yam 250 TXRQ on a 21ft Aquasport Walk-Around. I run mine primarily in a bay, but it's quite busy on the weekends, lots of large wake. Mine would run great until the boat started bouncing or having to plow through some larger wakes. the RPM would go up and down with each wave or bounce. Went back and forth to the shop, lost the better part of two seasons with it being at the shop. I kept asking the shop to check the carbs and pumps, and every time, they'd tell me it wasn't the carbs and pumps, that they ""looked good"". + +2 seasons ago, I replaced alot of the original stuff myself including new fuel tank, fuel lines, sender, filters, everything fuel related up to the fuel pumps. + +I replaced that stuff because it needed it. The original tank had too many holes to be fixed. It was after this that issues with the boat really started, which really through off the trouble shooting for me. I followed the advice of a lot of other folks from various sources telling me to check this, that and the other. + +At the beginning of this season to make a long story short, The boat wouldn't run at all off idle. It would start fine, then as soon as I put it in gear, it would die. + +I replaced the plugs, found one bad plug wire and replaced that by replacing the entire coil and went out and ran it. It seemed to run great, but was down about 10mph slower off WOT normal top speed. Wierd, but lots of possibilities as to the cause so I wasn't immediately overly concerned. But then upon returning, I throttled down to idle in the ""No Wake"" zone, and the engine took an immediate turn, and began running pretty badly. Bad vibration, smoky as hell. Engine had a BAD miss. At least one cylinder wasn't firing. Whole back of the boat was sooted up. + +I pulled the plugs, and found that there were two of my 6 cylinders that hadn't fired at all on the entire 45 minute run. The 2 plugs looked brand new. + +I took it to a new shop, and within 24 hours sent me pictures of two green carbs. Those carbs had to be in rough shape for the last 2-3 years at least. They looked ridiculously bad. + +So, That's MY experience with your symptoms. Take it for what it's worth. + +It cost me $2k to get the carbs and pumps rebuilt, all new fuel line on the engine side, new oil injection line, new carb linkage that the previous shop cracked and jimmy-rigged with a cable tie (no joke), etc. + +But the boat hasn't given me any issues ever since. It's been used nearly every weekend, hard, for the last 8 or 9 weeks now, and it's been great." +I am looking at replacing my 2003 90 HP Yamaha carbureted outboard with a 2013 90 HP Yamaha fuel injected outboard model F90XA. Will my existing controls work with the new change up or will they need to be replaced?,"forest813 said: + + + + I am looking at replacing my 2003 90 HP Yamaha carbureted outboard with a 2013 90 HP Yamaha fuel injected outboard model F90XA. Will my existing controls work with the new change up or will they need to be replaced? + +Click to expand... + +No one has any info or replies?!","forest813 said: + + + + I am looking at replacing my 2003 90 HP Yamaha carbureted outboard with a 2013 90 HP Yamaha fuel injected outboard model F90XA. Will my existing controls work with the new change up or will they need to be replaced? + +Click to expand... + +No one has any info or replies?!",Check that the end of the wire that goes into the boot has the spring that the spark plug end fits into. This spring has a vampire connection to the wire and may have separated when the wire came out of the boot. https://youtu.be/8chc6cv2-_E +I am looking at replacing my 2003 90 HP Yamaha carbureted outboard with a 2013 90 HP Yamaha fuel injected outboard model F90XA. Will my existing controls work with the new change up or will they need to be replaced?,Yamaha Customer Service at (866) 894-1626.,Yamaha Customer Service at (866) 894-1626.,"Are you saying that your lift pump,hi pressure pump and injector pump pressure is good at 3/4 throttle and above ?" +"I have a 25 2stroke that is giving me issues. Starts fine,idles fine, but seems to bog a little on acceleration, then either runs up to WOT, or seems like it loses a cylinder and won't throttle up. +Never stalls. Dealer went thru Carbs, replaced spark plugs and thermo. Ran great for a few hours now back to this issue. Called dealer, suggested I take a look at the coil. Is that a DIY type of fix? How hard to replace the coil? +Thanks,","Replacing the coils isn't hard, but don't go throwing parts at a motor that might be working just fine. It is a very expensive experiment. Here is a video I made up on testing the ignition on an outboard: https://youtu.be/MDbvkFM1V_c Only replace the parts you know are bad. + +Stuart","Replacing the coils isn't hard, but don't go throwing parts at a motor that might be working just fine. It is a very expensive experiment. Here is a video I made up on testing the ignition on an outboard: https://youtu.be/MDbvkFM1V_c Only replace the parts you know are bad. + +Stuart","Above and beyond testing the wiring harness from the engine to the key switch, it is good practice to install a small, but heavy duty distribution bus near the battery(ies) that is powered by the ""accessory"" position on your selector switch. From this bus run #8 or #6 positive and negative wires (depending on the number and draw needed for power accessories to a similar bus behind the console. From the console bus, run power to your fused switch panel for all you accessories - VHF, GPS/MAP, fish finder, navigation lights, windless, etc, etc. In this manner, you will always have a power source at the console for testing and adding additional accessories." +"I have a 2007 Yamaha two stroke 50 TLR. I last used itabout ten days ago. Last night when I attempted to move to engine off the transom saver using the trim switch in the engine, it didn't work. The trim works as normal from the throttle. The has never been any issues with the engine tilt trim. Today I had the switch checked at a boat shop and it is fine. What really confuses me is that it appears that both wires have adequate power (11.9v).","11.9V sounds low to me. The switch may be fine tested in isolation, but the wires to the relay may have a bad connection somewhere. Any bad connection will cause a voltage drop. High resistance in the wire can also mean that you are getting the full voltage but only a very low current draw so don't rely on voltage measurements alone. Make sure all the connectors are clean and free of corrosion and test the resistance of the wires using a multimeter. You should see very low readings in every part of the wiring. + +Stuart","11.9V sounds low to me. The switch may be fine tested in isolation, but the wires to the relay may have a bad connection somewhere. Any bad connection will cause a voltage drop. High resistance in the wire can also mean that you are getting the full voltage but only a very low current draw so don't rely on voltage measurements alone. Make sure all the connectors are clean and free of corrosion and test the resistance of the wires using a multimeter. You should see very low readings in every part of the wiring. + +Stuart",Have you verified that the warning is for over temperature and not low oil? +"I have a 2007 Yamaha two stroke 50 TLR. I last used itabout ten days ago. Last night when I attempted to move to engine off the transom saver using the trim switch in the engine, it didn't work. The trim works as normal from the throttle. The has never been any issues with the engine tilt trim. Today I had the switch checked at a boat shop and it is fine. What really confuses me is that it appears that both wires have adequate power (11.9v).","Thanks, that makes sense. Something is not activating the solenoids. + + +DangarStu said: + + + + 11.9V sounds low to me. The switch may be fine tested in isolation, but the wires to the relay may have a bad connection somewhere. Any bad connection will cause a voltage drop. High resistance in the wire can also mean that you are getting the full voltage but only a very low current draw so don't rely on voltage measurements alone. Make sure all the connectors are clean and free of corrosion and test the resistance of the wires using a multimeter. You should see very low readings in every part of the wiring. + +Stuart + +Click to expand...","Thanks, that makes sense. Something is not activating the solenoids. + + +DangarStu said: + + + + 11.9V sounds low to me. The switch may be fine tested in isolation, but the wires to the relay may have a bad connection somewhere. Any bad connection will cause a voltage drop. High resistance in the wire can also mean that you are getting the full voltage but only a very low current draw so don't rely on voltage measurements alone. Make sure all the connectors are clean and free of corrosion and test the resistance of the wires using a multimeter. You should see very low readings in every part of the wiring. + +Stuart + +Click to expand...","andy_from_ar said: + + + + My 130 H.P. V4 is not pumping oil from resivor to the tank under the cowling . Tried the switch nope. the alarm still works. Looking for a reset button or a way to check the pump ? WAS working fine last fall. + +Click to expand... + + +OK looked at it somemore the pump on the resivor was hot to the touch . Unpluged it and took the plate off the pump seemed locked up freed it up and got it to spin pluged it up and it spins. going to replace filter and try it again" +considering buying a 18.4 cobia c.c. with a 115 4 stroke what should I look for or have concerns about? is this a problematic motor?,"F115 had a bunch of issues. Main one initially was 'making oil' due to thermostat issues. Latest one that is appearing now is water in the oil through failed oil seals under the oil pump. Doesn't seem to be every engine, but starting to see numbers of them now that the engines are aging.","F115 had a bunch of issues. Main one initially was 'making oil' due to thermostat issues. Latest one that is appearing now is water in the oil through failed oil seals under the oil pump. Doesn't seem to be every engine, but starting to see numbers of them now that the engines are aging.","welder18 said: + + + + I have fuel splash when i remove the last fuel hose before the carburetor and oil in the thank. + +Click to expand... + + +What are you stating here? + +If you're not familiar with names of specific parts, follow this link to your engine schematic: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/2002/30MSHA/parts.html" +"I am changing the oil today and almost 2 gallons ( 8 liters) of milky thick oil came out. It looked more like coffee with cream. My engine supposed to only holds 4.7 Liters. It is a 1999 F80 TRLX 4 stroke. I bought it last spring and the seller said he just had it serviced. I used it a a dozen times. It sat most of the winter but I would start it in the yard for 5 minutes each month and took it out twice. The last two weeks it has been in the water at my friends boat slip. It ran great until 3 days ago when it shut off at idle a few times then would not plane off or get above 3500 rpm. I took it out of the water yesterday and began a service. It had signs of possible not being serviced before I bought it. All greasing points took excessive Grease to fill. The crank case oil was very dark but s +no signs of water intrusion. As park plugs 1&4 were oily dark with buildup 2had a nice clean copper look but 3 was white. I called the dealer that supposedly did the service. They said last service of that boat was five years ago. + +I have been just idling the boat for sunset cruises the last few weeks suppose about 20 hours around 1500 to2000 rpm. + +Anyideas as beside a blown head gasket? + +Thank you you in advance for any responses.","I haven't heard much about the F80, but the more common F115 has a known issue where the shaft seal in the oil pump fails and sucks water into the oil. I would guess that the F80 design might be quite similar, but who knows. Might pay to check if you can get any info about this before pulling the power head apart. If you google 'yamaha f115 oil seal problem' you should get plenty of info I would expect.","I haven't heard much about the F80, but the more common F115 has a known issue where the shaft seal in the oil pump fails and sucks water into the oil. I would guess that the F80 design might be quite similar, but who knows. Might pay to check if you can get any info about this before pulling the power head apart. If you google 'yamaha f115 oil seal problem' you should get plenty of info I would expect.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + You are hearing a click but it is not your starter.....Find and replace the slave solenoid. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks much! I'll give that a try. + +Jeff" +"hello +go the boat out this spring got the motor running with no issues...went to the lake and it wouldn't start.. had to turn the prime assist switch on the right side of the carbs...it then would start up fine...not sure what to replace...the diaphragm for the prime assist, or the prime starter assy. which runs $180. (how do I test it) ..after it has been running I put the switch back to its original position and it dies. Stays running with the switch on.........runs fine when it runs. +thanks or your time","The procedure for testing the prime start is to measure the length of the plunger, apply power to the plunger (positive to plug, negative to black) for five minutes and then measure the length of the plunger again. It should be no less that about 25mm on my motor (a 50 HP). + +If this problem has occurred after motor sitting for the winter I would also consider cleaning the carburettors: https://youtu.be/ye_Ui9D8dBE + +Stuart","The procedure for testing the prime start is to measure the length of the plunger, apply power to the plunger (positive to plug, negative to black) for five minutes and then measure the length of the plunger again. It should be no less that about 25mm on my motor (a 50 HP). + +If this problem has occurred after motor sitting for the winter I would also consider cleaning the carburettors: https://youtu.be/ye_Ui9D8dBE + +Stuart","Maximus said: + + + + It ended up being 2 out of the 3 coils were bad and it was running on 1 pot most of the time, +They would all show spark but they were not firing properly, +So check them all first before anything else +Very easy to check, here is a quick guide, +https://youtu.be/_kf1wfX5XAM + +Click to expand... + + + +thanks + +I have let the moter run for an hour, and switched between forward and backward. +After that the moter stopt , i measured the way you told me , and 2 coils are dead. + +now i have to find out if i can replace them for rec697-85570-10 coils +Do you if this is posible?" +"hello +go the boat out this spring got the motor running with no issues...went to the lake and it wouldn't start.. had to turn the prime assist switch on the right side of the carbs...it then would start up fine...not sure what to replace...the diaphragm for the prime assist, or the prime starter assy. which runs $180. (how do I test it) ..after it has been running I put the switch back to its original position and it dies. Stays running with the switch on.........runs fine when it runs. +thanks or your time","DangarStu said: + + + + The procedure for testing the prime start is to measure the length of the plunger, apply power to the plunger (positive to plug, negative to black) for five minutes and then measure the length of the plunger again. It should be no less that about 25mm on my motor (a 50 HP). + +If this problem has occurred after motor sitting for the winter I would also consider cleaning the carburettors: https://youtu.be/ye_Ui9D8dBE + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +Thanks for the reply....it ran good with no problems when I pulled it out of storage.....at theake it wouldn't start....always use sea foam and fresh gas.....thought I might of had a primer bulb go bad but it started working... +At the lake it flooded a bit..didn't try the prime assist switch til the next day..... +What exactly does the prime starter do? I'm not familiar with out boards... +I'll test test it when I get off work... +Thank you","DangarStu said: + + + + The procedure for testing the prime start is to measure the length of the plunger, apply power to the plunger (positive to plug, negative to black) for five minutes and then measure the length of the plunger again. It should be no less that about 25mm on my motor (a 50 HP). + +If this problem has occurred after motor sitting for the winter I would also consider cleaning the carburettors: https://youtu.be/ye_Ui9D8dBE + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +Thanks for the reply....it ran good with no problems when I pulled it out of storage.....at theake it wouldn't start....always use sea foam and fresh gas.....thought I might of had a primer bulb go bad but it started working... +At the lake it flooded a bit..didn't try the prime assist switch til the next day..... +What exactly does the prime starter do? I'm not familiar with out boards... +I'll test test it when I get off work... +Thank you","I think you just need to bleed it more. Seems like there's just too much air inside. + +What you need to do is start out with the trim rod fully extended. Then connect the light-green wire to the battery's positive terminal, and the light blue wire to the battery's negative terminal. If you think your PTT switch is working (and you can hear the PTT motor whirring), then you probably don't need to remove the unit and hook it directly up to the battery. + +After confirming that the rod full retracts, then reverse the wires to make the rod fully extend again. Then top off the fluid, and repeat those steps about 5-6 times. If that doesn't work, you'll likely need to open up the PTT unit and inspect it. There may be a stuck valve or the motor might not be healthy." +"hello +go the boat out this spring got the motor running with no issues...went to the lake and it wouldn't start.. had to turn the prime assist switch on the right side of the carbs...it then would start up fine...not sure what to replace...the diaphragm for the prime assist, or the prime starter assy. which runs $180. (how do I test it) ..after it has been running I put the switch back to its original position and it dies. Stays running with the switch on.........runs fine when it runs. +thanks or your time","The prime start system makes the mixture richer by spraying a bit of fuel into the intake manifold, a bit like an accelerator pump. I guess the idea is that while it is not in operation it doesn't present as much of an airflow obstruction as an open choke, but personally I've always found chokes more reliable. If a motor has an accelerator pump, pushing the throttle all the way open three or four times can also force enough fuel through the pump for the motor to start. + +Stuart","The prime start system makes the mixture richer by spraying a bit of fuel into the intake manifold, a bit like an accelerator pump. I guess the idea is that while it is not in operation it doesn't present as much of an airflow obstruction as an open choke, but personally I've always found chokes more reliable. If a motor has an accelerator pump, pushing the throttle all the way open three or four times can also force enough fuel through the pump for the motor to start. + +Stuart","Cover the tarp w/6 mil. PVC an + +Cover the tarp w/6 mil. PVC and secure it. W/a high ridge the snow will slide off. Note: the ridge needs to be solid so as to not bow under any accumulation." +"hello +go the boat out this spring got the motor running with no issues...went to the lake and it wouldn't start.. had to turn the prime assist switch on the right side of the carbs...it then would start up fine...not sure what to replace...the diaphragm for the prime assist, or the prime starter assy. which runs $180. (how do I test it) ..after it has been running I put the switch back to its original position and it dies. Stays running with the switch on.........runs fine when it runs. +thanks or your time","DangarStu said: + + + + The prime start system makes the mixture richer by spraying a bit of fuel into the intake manifold, a bit like an accelerator pump. I guess the idea is that while it is not in operation it doesn't present as much of an airflow obstruction as an open choke, but personally I've always found chokes more reliable. If a motor has an accelerator pump, pushing the throttle all the way open three or four times can also force enough fuel through the pump for the motor to start. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +OK that makes sense now....they are using that as my choke...correct? +Now what does the switch do? Bypass the diaphragm? And would that mean its bad? Like a diaphragm gas pump on a riding mower? +Just puzzles me how this would happen in just a short time...that switch diverts gas from going to the carbs and dumps it in the intake?...hate to think the carbs are plugged as careful as I am with storage.... +I appreciate your answers as it is rough to find someone knowledgeable on these motors.","DangarStu said: + + + + The prime start system makes the mixture richer by spraying a bit of fuel into the intake manifold, a bit like an accelerator pump. I guess the idea is that while it is not in operation it doesn't present as much of an airflow obstruction as an open choke, but personally I've always found chokes more reliable. If a motor has an accelerator pump, pushing the throttle all the way open three or four times can also force enough fuel through the pump for the motor to start. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +OK that makes sense now....they are using that as my choke...correct? +Now what does the switch do? Bypass the diaphragm? And would that mean its bad? Like a diaphragm gas pump on a riding mower? +Just puzzles me how this would happen in just a short time...that switch diverts gas from going to the carbs and dumps it in the intake?...hate to think the carbs are plugged as careful as I am with storage.... +I appreciate your answers as it is rough to find someone knowledgeable on these motors.","It does have a new fuel pump. The marina that repaired it ,I think ,half assed everything + + +It does run run fine not using the water separator" +"hello +go the boat out this spring got the motor running with no issues...went to the lake and it wouldn't start.. had to turn the prime assist switch on the right side of the carbs...it then would start up fine...not sure what to replace...the diaphragm for the prime assist, or the prime starter assy. which runs $180. (how do I test it) ..after it has been running I put the switch back to its original position and it dies. Stays running with the switch on.........runs fine when it runs. +thanks or your time",I understand that diaphragm is not the pump....and sorry for all the questions,I understand that diaphragm is not the pump....and sorry for all the questions,"Ayuh,..... Nitro don't build the controls, so who did,..?? + +Ya might have to buy a new controller, complete,..." +"F40 hp Yamaha that I'm putting a RPM/Hour meter on it.It's a cheap one that you wrap the wire around the spark plug wire. My question is with the 1 spark plug fire at each complete revolution or the gauge has a setting of 3 sparks for 2 revolutions. The wire can only touch 1 spark plug wire. +Not sue which setting to use. The gauge has several settings to choose from. Any suggestions??? THANKS","As your motor is a four stroke, the spark only fires one every two full revolutions. As a result 500 sparks a minute is 1000 RPM. The exception to this is when you have a waste spark ignition system where one coil services two cylinders (something you won't have in a three cylinder motor). + +So my understanding is that you wrap a single HT lead and double the count of sparks to get your RPM. + +Stuart","As your motor is a four stroke, the spark only fires one every two full revolutions. As a result 500 sparks a minute is 1000 RPM. The exception to this is when you have a waste spark ignition system where one coil services two cylinders (something you won't have in a three cylinder motor). + +So my understanding is that you wrap a single HT lead and double the count of sparks to get your RPM. + +Stuart","Early USA issued 40 HP two strokes were delivered with a rectifier only. Later models started using a rectifier/regulator. + +6H2-81960-00-00" +"F40 hp Yamaha that I'm putting a RPM/Hour meter on it.It's a cheap one that you wrap the wire around the spark plug wire. My question is with the 1 spark plug fire at each complete revolution or the gauge has a setting of 3 sparks for 2 revolutions. The wire can only touch 1 spark plug wire. +Not sue which setting to use. The gauge has several settings to choose from. Any suggestions??? THANKS","DangarStu said: + + + + As your motor is a four stroke, the spark only fires one every two full revolutions. As a result 500 sparks a minute is 1000 RPM. The exception to this is when you have a waste spark ignition system where one coil services two cylinders (something you won't have in a three cylinder motor). + +So my understanding is that you wrap a single HT lead and double the count of sparks to get your RPM. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +THANKS< The meter I have it has several settings , I think there is one for a 3 cyc, 4 stroke. Just not sure about it. Put it on my lawnmower to play with it and has to use some off the wall seting for a single cylinder engine to get a 900 rpm reading. I figure I'll have the correct one when I get 800-900 rpm idle and 5500 approx. max rpm like the owners manual says.","DangarStu said: + + + + As your motor is a four stroke, the spark only fires one every two full revolutions. As a result 500 sparks a minute is 1000 RPM. The exception to this is when you have a waste spark ignition system where one coil services two cylinders (something you won't have in a three cylinder motor). + +So my understanding is that you wrap a single HT lead and double the count of sparks to get your RPM. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +THANKS< The meter I have it has several settings , I think there is one for a 3 cyc, 4 stroke. Just not sure about it. Put it on my lawnmower to play with it and has to use some off the wall seting for a single cylinder engine to get a 900 rpm reading. I figure I'll have the correct one when I get 800-900 rpm idle and 5500 approx. max rpm like the owners manual says.",Thank you may I ask what the torque is +"Finishing final steps of tune up with static timing check until I can find my timing light or get another. Retard and pick up timing need no adjustment. However, when adjusting full advance timing, I am a long way from being able to align the mark on the flywheel to the mark on the magneto plate. Need 15 - 20 mm more on screw.Does this mean something else wrong? Can I replace the adjustment screw with a longer one in order to make the adjustment? What's the danger of running this motor without the full advance timing set correctly? I never run at WOT.",Forgot to include: 86 150 ETL,Forgot to include: 86 150 ETL,those beaarings are pretty standard depending on the size of the axle...the inner race is still on the axle.....you gotta pull it off anyway so pull it and take it to your nearest dealer or auto supply and they can look at it and tell what you need... +"Hi there +I have 1991 Yamaha 40HP autolube HEO..runs nice but recently when at full throttle makes some weird noise +you can hear that in my video I recorded yesterday +thanks +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llEtrgBFnac",Run with a timing light to see if you can determine a miss on one of the sparkplug leads.--------Perhaps run with the cover off.,Run with a timing light to see if you can determine a miss on one of the sparkplug leads.--------Perhaps run with the cover off.,Pull up the lever half way and see what happens. +"Hi there +I have 1991 Yamaha 40HP autolube HEO..runs nice but recently when at full throttle makes some weird noise +you can hear that in my video I recorded yesterday +thanks +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llEtrgBFnac",Might be overheating when running at high revs.Did it shut down when you slowed down? check waterpump impeller.,Might be overheating when running at high revs.Did it shut down when you slowed down? check waterpump impeller.,"Chris; +You are right, Don't Assume anything . I put a spark tester and its firing. So you think it's a injector fouled and not getting fuel ? Sounds good to me. Before pulling out the injectors is there away to check and see if the ejector is getting power or single to work. +Thk's + +BoB + +ob" +"Hi there +I have 1991 Yamaha 40HP autolube HEO..runs nice but recently when at full throttle makes some weird noise +you can hear that in my video I recorded yesterday +thanks +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llEtrgBFnac","impeler new, sparks new....runs nice, my boat is a 15 feet and makes at WOT 32mph which I think is very nice +perhaps it's from overheating but I don't rev it too much over 3000rpm","impeler new, sparks new....runs nice, my boat is a 15 feet and makes at WOT 32mph which I think is very nice +perhaps it's from overheating but I don't rev it too much over 3000rpm","if its an 89 and it has a fiberglass tank, the ethanol shouldn't bother the tank." +"Hi there +I have 1991 Yamaha 40HP autolube HEO..runs nice but recently when at full throttle makes some weird noise +you can hear that in my video I recorded yesterday +thanks +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llEtrgBFnac",? are you planning to run with a timing light to observe spark behaviour ?,? are you planning to run with a timing light to observe spark behaviour ?,Any water in the system ?----Frozen perhaps ? +"Hi there +I have 1991 Yamaha 40HP autolube HEO..runs nice but recently when at full throttle makes some weird noise +you can hear that in my video I recorded yesterday +thanks +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=llEtrgBFnac",can you explain it how to run with timing light?,can you explain it how to run with timing light?,"I would certainly go with an EasyOut (screw extractor) I would definitely take the head off to clean out any bits that may be inside there. It isn't such a bad job. Here are some videos I did doing that on a smaller Yamaha. https://youtu.be/rEMFx0Dm3LQ https://youtu.be/1tkuBGBRbrQ + +Best of luck, +Stuart" +"I recently had an impeller go out while boating. The engine light came on and the motor would not rev up. I got the boat home and replaced the impeller, but now the motor will idle but not come up to high rpm. It kicks and shutters. Is there a reset for overheating? Seems like it's not getting fuel, but I've never had a problem until now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.","What did the impeller look like when you took it out? Had it disintegrated maybe lodging rubber in the cooling system? How much water is now coming out the tell tale? I wouldn't expect there to be a reset, but the mechanism that puts it into limp mode may have caused a problem too. Is it fuel injected or carbureted? + +Stuart","What did the impeller look like when you took it out? Had it disintegrated maybe lodging rubber in the cooling system? How much water is now coming out the tell tale? I wouldn't expect there to be a reset, but the mechanism that puts it into limp mode may have caused a problem too. Is it fuel injected or carbureted? + +Stuart",also does anyone know where i can find the serial number on this motor +"I recently had an impeller go out while boating. The engine light came on and the motor would not rev up. I got the boat home and replaced the impeller, but now the motor will idle but not come up to high rpm. It kicks and shutters. Is there a reset for overheating? Seems like it's not getting fuel, but I've never had a problem until now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.",The key had turned in impeller otherwise wasn't really tore up. Tell tale puts out good stream and I flushed engine when I had lower unit off,The key had turned in impeller otherwise wasn't really tore up. Tell tale puts out good stream and I flushed engine when I had lower unit off,"Do you have a drive oil reservoir on the front or top of your engine? Is it full? + +Three things will set off this alarm. Low drive oil, Over heat, No oil pressure. The oil pressure switch and the over heat work on the same wire. The switches ground completing the circuit, with no oil pressure or with an over heat and set the alarm off. + +The drive reservoir has a float in it that grounds the circuit when the fluid is low. You can disconnect the wires on the float tank and turn on your key switch to test." +"I have a 30 HP Yamaha Long Shaft electric start outboard motor but cannot for the life of me find out how old it is. Is there a trick to finding the year it was manufactured. I live in Canada and my search with Yamaha dealers has left me wanting ... only a range of years. How's that possible? Can somebody on this forum recommend a dealer or a method to finding out the age of the motor? +Thanks +D","The final letter tells you the year of manufacture: http://www.ebay.com.au/gds/Outboard...DENTIFICATION-CODES-/10000000175675727/g.html + +Stuart","The final letter tells you the year of manufacture: http://www.ebay.com.au/gds/Outboard...DENTIFICATION-CODES-/10000000175675727/g.html + +Stuart",I think problem could also be caused by a failing diaphram in the mechanical fuel pump(s) driven by the overhead cam. If a diaphram starts to fail on one of those pumps you can get fuel leaking into the OH cam = making oil as fuel is being added to the oil. The mechanical fuel pump(s) should be on the rear of the engine in plain view with the fuel lines entering and exiting. +"I have a 30 HP Yamaha Long Shaft electric start outboard motor but cannot for the life of me find out how old it is. Is there a trick to finding the year it was manufactured. I live in Canada and my search with Yamaha dealers has left me wanting ... only a range of years. How's that possible? Can somebody on this forum recommend a dealer or a method to finding out the age of the motor? +Thanks +D","DangarStu said: + + + + The final letter tells you the year of manufacture: http://www.ebay.com.au/gds/Outboard...DENTIFICATION-CODES-/10000000175675727/g.html + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + For some reason, my motor doesn't seem to follow that model you provided. Here is what it looks like: Yamaha 30ELD +6J8 L ****02 (I left out the real numbers associated with each star)","DangarStu said: + + + + The final letter tells you the year of manufacture: http://www.ebay.com.au/gds/Outboard...DENTIFICATION-CODES-/10000000175675727/g.html + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + For some reason, my motor doesn't seem to follow that model you provided. Here is what it looks like: Yamaha 30ELD +6J8 L ****02 (I left out the real numbers associated with each star)",reread and think you may be right...if so my bad... +"I have a 30 HP Yamaha Long Shaft electric start outboard motor but cannot for the life of me find out how old it is. Is there a trick to finding the year it was manufactured. I live in Canada and my search with Yamaha dealers has left me wanting ... only a range of years. How's that possible? Can somebody on this forum recommend a dealer or a method to finding out the age of the motor? +Thanks +D","It is usually in a single box all on its own in the bottom right of the plate. Nothing there? + +Stuart","It is usually in a single box all on its own in the bottom right of the plate. Nothing there? + +Stuart",The foam has to come out.-----Glass in new stringers / ribs.-----I like using ---WEST SYSTEM ----epoxy and fiberglass / carbon fiber.------Doing a 40 year old boat now.-----Nothing wrong with the glass of the hull. +"I have a 30 HP Yamaha Long Shaft electric start outboard motor but cannot for the life of me find out how old it is. Is there a trick to finding the year it was manufactured. I live in Canada and my search with Yamaha dealers has left me wanting ... only a range of years. How's that possible? Can somebody on this forum recommend a dealer or a method to finding out the age of the motor? +Thanks +D","DangarStu said: + + + + It is usually in a single box all on its own in the bottom right of the plate. Nothing there? + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +Nope, not there. I will contact Yamaha to see if they can help. It's been frustrating to say the least.","DangarStu said: + + + + It is usually in a single box all on its own in the bottom right of the plate. Nothing there? + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +Nope, not there. I will contact Yamaha to see if they can help. It's been frustrating to say the least.",There are 8 different versions of the F25 available. Is it too much trouble to state your specific model? +"Hi, wanting to do a compression test on my 150, fittings on the tester are 14mm and 18mm - don't fit into the plug ports. Where can I find the correct size of the ports on this engine. Thanks in advance.","What type of spark plug does it take? If you look up the specs for the plug you'll get the thread diameter. + +Stuart","What type of spark plug does it take? If you look up the specs for the plug you'll get the thread diameter. + +Stuart","You already KNOW this since it was posted on another forum but I thought I would post it here so all the members here could benefit as well.. + +Why NOT to use THINNED EPOXY with Rotted Wood! + +http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Glues/WestSystem/Thinning/Thinning.html" +"'86 150 V6 +Just finishing spring tune up. Pulled plugs to inspect. All looked good with less than 20 hrs so decided to reinstall. Installed 5 with torque wrench @ 12 ft-lb. felt something ""give"" while installing last plug, then realized it was spinning free. Removed socket with plug/electrode, but threaded portion of plug is still in head. +Is it wise to try a screw extractor tool? What other options do I have? Really concerned at this point. All input welcome.","Once you've got the head off you will hopefully also be able to grab the electrode with vice grips and wind it out. + +Good luck! I'm sure it will be fine.","Once you've got the head off you will hopefully also be able to grab the electrode with vice grips and wind it out. + +Good luck! I'm sure it will be fine.","Purchase ""Tow Boat US"" insurance." +"'86 150 V6 +Just finishing spring tune up. Pulled plugs to inspect. All looked good with less than 20 hrs so decided to reinstall. Installed 5 with torque wrench @ 12 ft-lb. felt something ""give"" while installing last plug, then realized it was spinning free. Removed socket with plug/electrode, but threaded portion of plug is still in head. +Is it wise to try a screw extractor tool? What other options do I have? Really concerned at this point. All input welcome.","Pics of broken plug attached. As you can see i have the ceramic tip including the electrode. The part left in the head is the threaded collar with a hole in the center. +Should be easy to get a grip with a screw extractor. Do you think this to be a dangerous approach? +Yamaha Service Manual calls for plugs to be torqued 10-15 ft-lbs. have always torqued to 10.","Pics of broken plug attached. As you can see i have the ceramic tip including the electrode. The part left in the head is the threaded collar with a hole in the center. +Should be easy to get a grip with a screw extractor. Do you think this to be a dangerous approach? +Yamaha Service Manual calls for plugs to be torqued 10-15 ft-lbs. have always torqued to 10.","hi i pulled the plugs and pulled the cord cylinders move find and are not squirting oil out the plug hole +that said i'll try your start suggestion" +"'86 150 V6 +Just finishing spring tune up. Pulled plugs to inspect. All looked good with less than 20 hrs so decided to reinstall. Installed 5 with torque wrench @ 12 ft-lb. felt something ""give"" while installing last plug, then realized it was spinning free. Removed socket with plug/electrode, but threaded portion of plug is still in head. +Is it wise to try a screw extractor tool? What other options do I have? Really concerned at this point. All input welcome.","Thanks for the suggestion. Hate to have o pull the head, but seem to have no choice.","Thanks for the suggestion. Hate to have o pull the head, but seem to have no choice.","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + For better responses you need to post this thread in the evinrude section. Did you pull the plate to install the new coils? + +Click to expand... + + I will move it thank you. Actually a boat motor mechanic did remove the stater plate when he put in the coils." +"'86 150 V6 +Just finishing spring tune up. Pulled plugs to inspect. All looked good with less than 20 hrs so decided to reinstall. Installed 5 with torque wrench @ 12 ft-lb. felt something ""give"" while installing last plug, then realized it was spinning free. Removed socket with plug/electrode, but threaded portion of plug is still in head. +Is it wise to try a screw extractor tool? What other options do I have? Really concerned at this point. All input welcome.","I would certainly go with an EasyOut (screw extractor) I would definitely take the head off to clean out any bits that may be inside there. It isn't such a bad job. Here are some videos I did doing that on a smaller Yamaha. https://youtu.be/rEMFx0Dm3LQ https://youtu.be/1tkuBGBRbrQ + +Best of luck, +Stuart","I would certainly go with an EasyOut (screw extractor) I would definitely take the head off to clean out any bits that may be inside there. It isn't such a bad job. Here are some videos I did doing that on a smaller Yamaha. https://youtu.be/rEMFx0Dm3LQ https://youtu.be/1tkuBGBRbrQ + +Best of luck, +Stuart",O.K. Great. Thanks. +"'86 150 V6 +Just finishing spring tune up. Pulled plugs to inspect. All looked good with less than 20 hrs so decided to reinstall. Installed 5 with torque wrench @ 12 ft-lb. felt something ""give"" while installing last plug, then realized it was spinning free. Removed socket with plug/electrode, but threaded portion of plug is still in head. +Is it wise to try a screw extractor tool? What other options do I have? Really concerned at this point. All input welcome.","I'm honored to receive help from such a YouTube celebrity. Thanks for the link and thanks for the encouragement. I'm out of town on business, but when I get back I'll address this issue and report back to all who have provided input.","I'm honored to receive help from such a YouTube celebrity. Thanks for the link and thanks for the encouragement. I'm out of town on business, but when I get back I'll address this issue and report back to all who have provided input.","Boat still has issues with the throttle cables. + +Replaced the oil lever connecter, cleaned the carbs, but ran into an issue while putting things back together. The oil lever bar doesn't seem to stay free once we put the oil reservoir back in place. We tried to move hose lines around but didn't come up with a perfect solution. It doesn't seem like the connector we replaced, part 21 on the link, is free to move all of the way once we put the reservoir back in. + +We put the boat back in the water and things are different now. + +It idles great now. No more stalling. Seems to run stronger for the 0-50% throttle. I can wiggle the throttle and sometimes the engine wants to really go, as if that lever slips into position occasionally and things are correct for a second. I've had it want to take off fast while throttling down a few times. If I got past a threshold though, around 50%, it actually loses power. WOT gives me 3600 RPM but just the right spot around 50% Throttle can get me almost 4000 RPM. + +Also, one time I throttled down and couldn't get the engine to idle for a bit. With the throttle in idle position it was acting like 25% throttle. I had to turn it off and when I'd turn it back on the engine would rev. Eventually I felt the lines slip back into place and it was back to normal. Definitely not good. Went into reverse pretty hard that time too. + +Next time I get a chance we're going to look again to find a way to make that lever not get blocked when we put the oil reservoir back in... That sure seems to be the issue even more now. Anyone else have any insight that could help? Is this a known ""gotcha"" on engines? + +http://www.marineengine.com/parts/yamaha-outboard-parts/2002/90/90TLRA/620302770006 +Connector we replaced - Part 21 +Oil Lever - Part 20. +Resevoir - Part 26" +"'86 150 V6 +Just finishing spring tune up. Pulled plugs to inspect. All looked good with less than 20 hrs so decided to reinstall. Installed 5 with torque wrench @ 12 ft-lb. felt something ""give"" while installing last plug, then realized it was spinning free. Removed socket with plug/electrode, but threaded portion of plug is still in head. +Is it wise to try a screw extractor tool? What other options do I have? Really concerned at this point. All input welcome.",That's me. Famous throughout my whole bedroom.,That's me. Famous throughout my whole bedroom.,"Sounds like the carburetor is set too lean on the low speed mixture screw.-------These carburetors have tiny passage ways that can be difficult to find to clean them.-----And what do your "" mechanics "" tell you needs to be done ??" +"'86 150 V6 +Just finishing spring tune up. Pulled plugs to inspect. All looked good with less than 20 hrs so decided to reinstall. Installed 5 with torque wrench @ 12 ft-lb. felt something ""give"" while installing last plug, then realized it was spinning free. Removed socket with plug/electrode, but threaded portion of plug is still in head. +Is it wise to try a screw extractor tool? What other options do I have? Really concerned at this point. All input welcome.","Success! Was stating ""Easy Out"" with my fingers to see how well it would grip and the threaded collar came right out. No wrench, no torque and no debris in the cylinder. Thanks for the input you guys. Sincerely appreciated","Success! Was stating ""Easy Out"" with my fingers to see how well it would grip and the threaded collar came right out. No wrench, no torque and no debris in the cylinder. Thanks for the input you guys. Sincerely appreciated",My Yamaha 90 4 stroke engine is stuck down. Trying to raise it manually by releasing the manual release screw is no help. Any suggestions. Tilt and trim needs replacing. +"'86 150 V6 +Just finishing spring tune up. Pulled plugs to inspect. All looked good with less than 20 hrs so decided to reinstall. Installed 5 with torque wrench @ 12 ft-lb. felt something ""give"" while installing last plug, then realized it was spinning free. Removed socket with plug/electrode, but threaded portion of plug is still in head. +Is it wise to try a screw extractor tool? What other options do I have? Really concerned at this point. All input welcome.",Congrats!,Congrats!,"Fuel tank breather shut?, pump sucking air and not fuel (vacuum lock). Air leak in fuel line is unlikely as you replaced that. Something is causing the pump not to work properly or its not able to suck fuel. I would take pump apart again and check diaphragms and gaskets again also check for a blockage in the pump fuel passages." +For those of you who have deleted the balancer shafts on the f150: did you plug the oil holes? I just wondered about a possible oil pressure problem if they were left open. Also have you experienced any additional vibration with the shafts removed? I understand these are not even installed on the commercial version of these engines.TIA,"We just cleaned the remainder of the plastic teeth off the gear so that it didn't engage rather than stripping the whole balancer out. That stops any oil pressure issues hopefully. As for the balance, I think you could probably detect the difference in twins if you really tried hard, but anyone who didn't know would never notice. The whole job including stripping the midsection to clean the sump and pickup etc took around 6 to 8 hours for 2 of us doing it for the first time.","We just cleaned the remainder of the plastic teeth off the gear so that it didn't engage rather than stripping the whole balancer out. That stops any oil pressure issues hopefully. As for the balance, I think you could probably detect the difference in twins if you really tried hard, but anyone who didn't know would never notice. The whole job including stripping the midsection to clean the sump and pickup etc took around 6 to 8 hours for 2 of us doing it for the first time.",do you have any 115 volt plugs on the boat that are two wire and ungrounded?you are getting feedback through some other device is my guess...its a guess because i dont know the complete wiring... +For those of you who have deleted the balancer shafts on the f150: did you plug the oil holes? I just wondered about a possible oil pressure problem if they were left open. Also have you experienced any additional vibration with the shafts removed? I understand these are not even installed on the commercial version of these engines.TIA,"I ran my engine after removing the balance shafts. The ""whine"" was gone but I had a noticeable vibration I could feel not only on the engine but the boat itself. This occurred from idle speed up to about 1200 RPM. Seemed to get smoother beyond that. I guess the amount of vibration without the balancer may vary from one engine to another. I think the vibration on mine is more than I would be willing to tolerate, so my plan is to replace the balancer assy. Apparently the latest version (63P-11500-04-00) have an additional oil nozzle to better lubricate the gears. Thanks for your response!","I ran my engine after removing the balance shafts. The ""whine"" was gone but I had a noticeable vibration I could feel not only on the engine but the boat itself. This occurred from idle speed up to about 1200 RPM. Seemed to get smoother beyond that. I guess the amount of vibration without the balancer may vary from one engine to another. I think the vibration on mine is more than I would be willing to tolerate, so my plan is to replace the balancer assy. Apparently the latest version (63P-11500-04-00) have an additional oil nozzle to better lubricate the gears. Thanks for your response!","Bob and sue you are asking the right questions where safty is concerned, most cabin boats do not lend themselfs for multible pump applications, your system is addiquit and follows the ABYC standards. your pump out systems can be improved but would require modificatons, with regular inspection and maintnence single pump application will do. were float switches are concerned make sure the wires are not stiff or obstructed preventing flot travle, make sure pump has screen in place,can be found found between pump and pump basket, a single pice of ty wrap or trash can jam pump if no screen in place. FYI USCG keeps records on the number of boats sank due to pump failer, the avation industry follows 2 is better than 1....." +Which gear oil do I need for my 90tlrp 1991 Yahmaha 90hp?,"Michigandr said: + + + + Which gear oil do I need for my 90tlrp 1991 Yahmaha 90hp? + +Click to expand... + + +Pretty much all outboards take the same gear oil. 75W 90 or 80W 90 is what you are looking for. + +Stuart","Michigandr said: + + + + Which gear oil do I need for my 90tlrp 1991 Yahmaha 90hp? + +Click to expand... + + +Pretty much all outboards take the same gear oil. 75W 90 or 80W 90 is what you are looking for. + +Stuart","the engine has to turn a minimum of 300 rpm to produce a good fire.... + +there are two basic things to do with any outboard failure..1.check compression..2..test the spark to make sure it will jump 7/16 of an inch with a gap tester..the tester can be bought cheap at any good auto parts store... + +http://outboardparts.com/troubleshooting/troubleshooting7.htm" +Which gear oil do I need for my 90tlrp 1991 Yahmaha 90hp?,So I shouldnt use the Hypoid 90 that West Marine said i should use (i think the lady just looked it up online)....,So I shouldnt use the Hypoid 90 that West Marine said i should use (i think the lady just looked it up online)....,"I may have jumped the gun relating my problem. I was considering the cooling down and thinking vapour pressure but it might simply be an air leak. Letting it cool down just gives time for the fuel flow to recover. + +I have a manual and was able to quickly narrow it down to the pressure relief solenoid. I was able to disconnect the VST air line bypassing the solenoid so no pressure would build up and the motor ran fine. The dealer has sold tons of these motors and never seen my issue. +I explained how I came up with the problem they agreed to put on a new solenoid. + +When your motor stops, if you try priming your fuel line a dozen squeezes or so and then start your motor. See if your motor rev's up and runs. If it does, then I'd say your definately a fuel supply problem rather then a high pressure fuel pump. + +I'd start with the easy stuff, line bent, kinked, plugged fuel filter, bad fuel hose etc.. Drain the VST and make sure there is fuel and no water. If you know someone with a yamaha borrow their tank and hose and try it. + +If it runs on the other tank problem solved. If it continues to do it then your back to the VST. + +Here's one. I forgot to open my tank air vent. The suction pulled down the top of the tank. The fuel pickup in the tank was a solid plastic straw that kinked and restricted fuel flow. Took me a bit to find that. + +I'm afraid I can't offer more then that. I'm sure it's going to be something simple. + +Good luck." +Which gear oil do I need for my 90tlrp 1991 Yahmaha 90hp?,So Hypoid 90 is SAE 85W-90 which will be fine too. Anything in that range should be suitable.,So Hypoid 90 is SAE 85W-90 which will be fine too. Anything in that range should be suitable.,I can't help you on most of that except the heat gauge. Send me an e-mail at [email protected] and I will return a write-up on alternatives for installing a heat gauge on the engine or manifold. +has had full tune new carb float &needles plus new head gasket,possible vacuum leak? spray a mist of water with a tiny bit of soap on lines and near the carb to see if you have a vacuum leak,possible vacuum leak? spray a mist of water with a tiny bit of soap on lines and near the carb to see if you have a vacuum leak,"I’m not sure tbh, I know it’s a pain but with a strong small torch, I find it just as easy to refit it the way it came off, it’s defo a fag about but I’ve personally not needed to drain the oil and invert the engine yet." +"hey guys just purcahsed my first boat, its awesome and it has a old 2 stroke 40hp yammi starts first go idles fine but when im in full throttle the power fluctuates every like every 4 seconds not drastically but its noticeable in noise and feel when in the boat...i noticed that one of the fuel lines on the 3rd carb had a slight fuel leak (slow drip) from the hose could this cause that problem?(replacing all fuel lines real soon)....I need help on adjusting the timing and the carbs but i have no clue on where to begin if someone could help me with some info that would be great",replaced all fuel lines... running really nice now haven't tested in water...started first turn of the key and then died after 15 seconds adjusted each carb half a turn out equally and now it idles smoothly but a tad bit smokey when revving in neautral should i go another half turn out or just leave it there? i want it to be running slightly rich,replaced all fuel lines... running really nice now haven't tested in water...started first turn of the key and then died after 15 seconds adjusted each carb half a turn out equally and now it idles smoothly but a tad bit smokey when revving in neautral should i go another half turn out or just leave it there? i want it to be running slightly rich,"Loose ground somewhere. + +Does the kill switch cord do the same?" +"Does Yamaha have sensors that if there is trouble that it will shut down to a low rpm? Starts and runs find, then bogs down to 5-8mph, starts right back up but will only run at low speed. Suddenly runs fine? Plenty of oil, good gas. 2001 90HP with carbs. ????",I have an older model 90 that if the oil gets low it limits the engine to 2000 rpms might be the same with yours. Check the oil sensor,I have an older model 90 that if the oil gets low it limits the engine to 2000 rpms might be the same with yours. Check the oil sensor,"Hello Brian, +You helped me earlier this year with an older D7L model heater that wasn't starting. We ended up rebrushing the motor, which got the pulse pump ticking. We even had to recalibrate it, as we did the no-no of touching the output end. But, it was working fine, but now there is no more ticking of the pump. We put the test light back on the connections, and the pump is not getting any pulses. With the new brushes on the motor, does this leave just the pulse control unit as the culprit? One other symptom I can report: the first time it failed to ignite, it seemed like the pump was ticking loudly - next time, not at all. + +I appreciate any help/advice you can give. + +Thanks... +~Loren" +"Does Yamaha have sensors that if there is trouble that it will shut down to a low rpm? Starts and runs find, then bogs down to 5-8mph, starts right back up but will only run at low speed. Suddenly runs fine? Plenty of oil, good gas. 2001 90HP with carbs. ????",I cannot find the oil sensor? Thanks,I cannot find the oil sensor? Thanks,"I don't know the controls you have, but on a number of other brands you hold the station select switch down as you move into gear and that prevents the gears from changing as you advance the throttle. Whether Yamaha has incorporated this idea I don't know." +"Does Yamaha have sensors that if there is trouble that it will shut down to a low rpm? Starts and runs find, then bogs down to 5-8mph, starts right back up but will only run at low speed. Suddenly runs fine? Plenty of oil, good gas. 2001 90HP with carbs. ????",2 or 4 stroke,2 or 4 stroke,Easy to rebore those.---------That is if it is now standard bore and not bored out already. +"Does Yamaha have sensors that if there is trouble that it will shut down to a low rpm? Starts and runs find, then bogs down to 5-8mph, starts right back up but will only run at low speed. Suddenly runs fine? Plenty of oil, good gas. 2001 90HP with carbs. ????",2 stroke,2 stroke,"No, there isn't an arrow for the rpm. There is one above the oil level but it has always been like that and it was running great with it like that" +"Does Yamaha have sensors that if there is trouble that it will shut down to a low rpm? Starts and runs find, then bogs down to 5-8mph, starts right back up but will only run at low speed. Suddenly runs fine? Plenty of oil, good gas. 2001 90HP with carbs. ????",the sensor is in the tank itself basically just a sending unit. I think the location of it is the top of the tank should see the wires going in through a rubber boot. Also do you have the tach that has the oil lights in it.,the sensor is in the tank itself basically just a sending unit. I think the location of it is the top of the tank should see the wires going in through a rubber boot. Also do you have the tach that has the oil lights in it.,Thanks +"Does Yamaha have sensors that if there is trouble that it will shut down to a low rpm? Starts and runs find, then bogs down to 5-8mph, starts right back up but will only run at low speed. Suddenly runs fine? Plenty of oil, good gas. 2001 90HP with carbs. ????",Also did you check for spark and compression also wile it is running try pumping the fuel ball while it is doing this,Also did you check for spark and compression also wile it is running try pumping the fuel ball while it is doing this,"Bridge yellow and red to one side of a push button switch ,on the other side of the push button switch connect brown if you push the button the starter motor will turn over ,take your finger off the button once it starts .to switch it off you need another push button switch one side connect black on the other side connect white push the button and the motor will stop." +"Does Yamaha have sensors that if there is trouble that it will shut down to a low rpm? Starts and runs find, then bogs down to 5-8mph, starts right back up but will only run at low speed. Suddenly runs fine? Plenty of oil, good gas. 2001 90HP with carbs. ????","Has oil light, gauges are acting weird, has power to them but not working right. Haven't dealt with them yet. Spark and comp. are good. When it stops raining I'll put back in water. Going to go ahead and change fuel ball and pull sending unit out, to see if gummed up.","Has oil light, gauges are acting weird, has power to them but not working right. Haven't dealt with them yet. Spark and comp. are good. When it stops raining I'll put back in water. Going to go ahead and change fuel ball and pull sending unit out, to see if gummed up.","Modern electronics are best to turn off by the unit's power bottom, that will allow the unit to go through its shutdown proses rather than cutting the power abruptly, you can install a secondary switch to cut off power to the unit after it is off." +"Does Yamaha have sensors that if there is trouble that it will shut down to a low rpm? Starts and runs find, then bogs down to 5-8mph, starts right back up but will only run at low speed. Suddenly runs fine? Plenty of oil, good gas. 2001 90HP with carbs. ????",You need to get a service manual gauges acting weird can be a sign of a bad stator or voltage regulator the manual will tell you how to check the stator.,You need to get a service manual gauges acting weird can be a sign of a bad stator or voltage regulator the manual will tell you how to check the stator.,"If it is indeed teak, why not sand and oil? It's very durable and expensive to replace. Also painting teak would be a crime against humanity, it's so beautiful!" +"Does Yamaha have sensors that if there is trouble that it will shut down to a low rpm? Starts and runs find, then bogs down to 5-8mph, starts right back up but will only run at low speed. Suddenly runs fine? Plenty of oil, good gas. 2001 90HP with carbs. ????","Do you know where I can download one? Called Yamaha, does not have one. Thanks","Do you know where I can download one? Called Yamaha, does not have one. Thanks","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + I`m sure you can make that one work but for a little skiff you could probably adapt a jet ski trailer or a little motorcycle trailer would be alot lighter and easier to handle. If your gonna back it into the water you want bearing buddies on the wheels and submersable lights. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for that! I didn't think about the lights... + +I'd never heard of Bearing Buddies until now but I've just read about them and they sound very interesting. I'll definitely get a pair of them!" +"Does Yamaha have sensors that if there is trouble that it will shut down to a low rpm? Starts and runs find, then bogs down to 5-8mph, starts right back up but will only run at low speed. Suddenly runs fine? Plenty of oil, good gas. 2001 90HP with carbs. ????",This site sells some could always try ebay. I would start by making sure all the electrical connections and grounds are clean good luck,This site sells some could always try ebay. I would start by making sure all the electrical connections and grounds are clean good luck,"no.....sparkplug wire not installed correctly/damaged, wrong plugs installed.....gapped wrong. NOT normal !" +Does anyone know where I can download a free manual for 2001 90HP 2stroke Yamaha motor and a manual for a 2001 Cobia 174.,"Not sure about free, but I've always got my manuals from http://readmanuals.com for less than $10 and they've all been really good. + +Stuart","Not sure about free, but I've always got my manuals from http://readmanuals.com for less than $10 and they've all been really good. + +Stuart",Thanks for the reply. Weight shifting will be the next step then. +"Hello, +I have a 2013 T9.9XPHB. Just put it in the water for this season and noticed water coming out of 2 holes about 1/3 the way down the shaft housing, facing forward. +The two holes are side by side facing the pivot housing. Look to be embossed, meaning there is a raised ridge around each hole. Might be about 1/4"" holes. +The water flow out of the tater tail is strong. The water out of these two holes is a strong trickle at idle but high higher throttle is more like an open end garden hose. +The marina mechanic and yard owner are not sure if it is a problem or not and believe as long as it has water coming out of the tater tail and is not overheating it should be OK to use. + +I had let it warm up for about 15 minutes before noticing the water flow and I really need to hang over the transom to see it so I am not sure if it did this last year or not. I did motor from the launch lift to the slip so the OB run about 1/2 hr with no indication of any problems. + +I will be going down later today to try to get a pic but for now here is a stock photo showing the area I am talking about. + +Thanks, +Ward","This doesn't sound right to me. I wouldn't want salt water (or even fresh) constantly shooting towards the pivot housing. There is normally a small amount of water that comes out an exhaust outlet above the water line, but it normally faces backwards and isn't very much at all with the bulk going out through the prop. It is possible that the muffler isn't sealed properly to the powerhead but I'm not familiar with this exact outboard and it seems very new to be having that type of problem. + +Stuart","This doesn't sound right to me. I wouldn't want salt water (or even fresh) constantly shooting towards the pivot housing. There is normally a small amount of water that comes out an exhaust outlet above the water line, but it normally faces backwards and isn't very much at all with the bulk going out through the prop. It is possible that the muffler isn't sealed properly to the powerhead but I'm not familiar with this exact outboard and it seems very new to be having that type of problem. + +Stuart","The service manual will tell you the temperature specs, but mine doesn't give details on cooling water flow pressure. On my F50, the fully-open temperature for the thermostat is 158F. So it's expected to run at least 158F. + +The way to confirm if the water pump is pumping water properly is to fast-idle it and look at the exit stream. If it's not stiff and strong, that means you have an issue with the impeller or a blockage in the cooling lines. + +Again, the thermostat is cheap to replace. But really, I suspect the impeller or something about the water pump assembly is not right. What part number did you buy?" +"Hello, +I have a 2013 T9.9XPHB. Just put it in the water for this season and noticed water coming out of 2 holes about 1/3 the way down the shaft housing, facing forward. +The two holes are side by side facing the pivot housing. Look to be embossed, meaning there is a raised ridge around each hole. Might be about 1/4"" holes. +The water flow out of the tater tail is strong. The water out of these two holes is a strong trickle at idle but high higher throttle is more like an open end garden hose. +The marina mechanic and yard owner are not sure if it is a problem or not and believe as long as it has water coming out of the tater tail and is not overheating it should be OK to use. + +I had let it warm up for about 15 minutes before noticing the water flow and I really need to hang over the transom to see it so I am not sure if it did this last year or not. I did motor from the launch lift to the slip so the OB run about 1/2 hr with no indication of any problems. + +I will be going down later today to try to get a pic but for now here is a stock photo showing the area I am talking about. + +Thanks, +Ward","I spoke to the dealer yesterday morning. +Yes, the water coming out of these two forward facing ports is overflow due to the water pump pumping more water than can be passed through the cooling system. +It is also normal to see some spitting out of the port at the rear of the OB just under the cowling clamp as you mentioned. This is an exhaust relief valve and since it is a wet exhaust system, it may spit a bit. + +He also confirmed that the tell tale water flow is after the cooling system so as long as that flow is strong everything is good. +I wasn't sure about that, just knew if it stopped there was a problem. + +Someone on another forum found a cooling water pathway diagram for me so I attached that and the two photos I got of the holes I am talking about. + +Thanks for the help.","I spoke to the dealer yesterday morning. +Yes, the water coming out of these two forward facing ports is overflow due to the water pump pumping more water than can be passed through the cooling system. +It is also normal to see some spitting out of the port at the rear of the OB just under the cowling clamp as you mentioned. This is an exhaust relief valve and since it is a wet exhaust system, it may spit a bit. + +He also confirmed that the tell tale water flow is after the cooling system so as long as that flow is strong everything is good. +I wasn't sure about that, just knew if it stopped there was a problem. + +Someone on another forum found a cooling water pathway diagram for me so I attached that and the two photos I got of the holes I am talking about. + +Thanks for the help.",Water was in the bottom of the cowling. Carburetors where completely rebuilt along with everything in the fuel system replaced. The only thing not replaced was the fuel pump. The fuel is fresh none ethanol with Startron marine treatment. I’m thinking the water was fouling out something in the wiring. I ran it on muffs the other day at idle but couldn’t find a leak anywhere. Plugs looked good as well. It may only leak at wot but that’s just me and guess work. Just after rebuilding the carburetors I was adjusting the idle on the lake . The boat started drifting toward a swimming area so I put it in reverse a little and a little water got into the cowling then. Then I ran across the lake at wot and it did the same sputtering and lost power. I pulled the cowling and wipe out the cowling with a paper towel and fished for awhile letting it dry out good. It ran fine the rest of the day. +"Hello, +I have a 2013 T9.9XPHB. Just put it in the water for this season and noticed water coming out of 2 holes about 1/3 the way down the shaft housing, facing forward. +The two holes are side by side facing the pivot housing. Look to be embossed, meaning there is a raised ridge around each hole. Might be about 1/4"" holes. +The water flow out of the tater tail is strong. The water out of these two holes is a strong trickle at idle but high higher throttle is more like an open end garden hose. +The marina mechanic and yard owner are not sure if it is a problem or not and believe as long as it has water coming out of the tater tail and is not overheating it should be OK to use. + +I had let it warm up for about 15 minutes before noticing the water flow and I really need to hang over the transom to see it so I am not sure if it did this last year or not. I did motor from the launch lift to the slip so the OB run about 1/2 hr with no indication of any problems. + +I will be going down later today to try to get a pic but for now here is a stock photo showing the area I am talking about. + +Thanks, +Ward","Stuart, +Just wanted to add that on another forum an owner of a 2012 T9.9 reported he didn't see water coming from that area but two others with ""new"" T9.9s said they both noticed the same thing I did. +Maybe something new for the 2013 model year on these OBs?","Stuart, +Just wanted to add that on another forum an owner of a 2012 T9.9 reported he didn't see water coming from that area but two others with ""new"" T9.9s said they both noticed the same thing I did. +Maybe something new for the 2013 model year on these OBs?","With the lower unit off, hooked to the flush hose water streams out of it fine. Put lower unit back on and do the same, it will not stream out." +"Hello, +I have a 2013 T9.9XPHB. Just put it in the water for this season and noticed water coming out of 2 holes about 1/3 the way down the shaft housing, facing forward. +The two holes are side by side facing the pivot housing. Look to be embossed, meaning there is a raised ridge around each hole. Might be about 1/4"" holes. +The water flow out of the tater tail is strong. The water out of these two holes is a strong trickle at idle but high higher throttle is more like an open end garden hose. +The marina mechanic and yard owner are not sure if it is a problem or not and believe as long as it has water coming out of the tater tail and is not overheating it should be OK to use. + +I had let it warm up for about 15 minutes before noticing the water flow and I really need to hang over the transom to see it so I am not sure if it did this last year or not. I did motor from the launch lift to the slip so the OB run about 1/2 hr with no indication of any problems. + +I will be going down later today to try to get a pic but for now here is a stock photo showing the area I am talking about. + +Thanks, +Ward","That is possible, or maybe their impellers have worn out a bit and the pressure valve never opens. + +Stuart","That is possible, or maybe their impellers have worn out a bit and the pressure valve never opens. + +Stuart","Well, that's what I got done so far with respect to instument panel and controls. The motor is an electric shift 50 h.p. Evinrude and I was able to find a ""Selectric"" control unit for it. The lower panel is just mild steel sheet metal with a few toggle switches... that's gonna control the choke circuits, the starter, the ignition circuit and the shut off for the magneto. Pretty basic setup. The dash panel is 1/8' aluminum sheet metal with fuel, voltmeter, tach, and speedometer already installed. Still gotta hook up the T-188 helm and splashwell anchor for the '72 50 h.p. Evinrude." +"Thanks for reading my post. First time poting anything. I have read through the archives and found some info but have additonal questions. + +i hit a rock last year at 30 mph. looked like someone hit the lower unit casing with a hammer. Stopped the motor dead. After going back to the landing I was able to move the forward/reverse lever to neutral. The hole was big enough to leak out the gear oil. I found a replacement/used inspected lower unit. + +The replacement lower unit was a short shaft. The guy looked at mine and said he could swap out the shafts and all would work so he swaped out shafts and I brought it home. + +I bolted the unit on and started the motor with the graden hose hook up on the motor. Runs as she should and in idle speed I have not problems. + +The probelms I see show up when putting it into gear. I have heard your not suppose to put it into gear when not in a tank or water but to make sure it works I did. I put it in forward and I can hear a little noise coming form the lower unit shaft/ lower unit area. when I bump up the rpm's just a 100 or so the noise goes away. + +When back at idel in neutral the motor makes no noise. I placed it in reverse and the noise is more noticeable but again when I bump up rpm's just a bit the noise goes away completely. Is this normal due to the lack of resistance from water? + + +I pulled the lower unit back off and looked it over again but nothing stood out. I replaced and adjusted all linkages both directions but have no change. When i tested it again it does the same thing. I tried to upload a video of the video to youtube. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s4tzIs3uGw8&feature=em-upload_owner + +Am I missing some adjustment? Is this normal? I'm affraid I will drop it in the water and it will do the same thing or the sound will be covered by the water till something really goes bad. + +One last question does anyone have a service manuel for this motor? + + +Thanks so much in advance. I just wnat to take the family fishing!!!!",Sorry i wrote out the post and did not use spell check or proof read before I posted it.,Sorry i wrote out the post and did not use spell check or proof read before I posted it.,"The new ones are fairly equal for operation and installation. I'd suggest you define 'your' needs a bit further. Current battery types and intent to maintain them? (Gel cells require a different charging stategy than a flooded cell.) Have you determined your Amp-hour needs? You need this to define 'good enough' for the charger. That should help to narrow the choices somewhat. If you can ID a budget figure, that would help too. + +Also, this topic has been discussed on several of the boards here...try that search function and see what shows up." +"Thanks for reading my post. First time poting anything. I have read through the archives and found some info but have additonal questions. + +i hit a rock last year at 30 mph. looked like someone hit the lower unit casing with a hammer. Stopped the motor dead. After going back to the landing I was able to move the forward/reverse lever to neutral. The hole was big enough to leak out the gear oil. I found a replacement/used inspected lower unit. + +The replacement lower unit was a short shaft. The guy looked at mine and said he could swap out the shafts and all would work so he swaped out shafts and I brought it home. + +I bolted the unit on and started the motor with the graden hose hook up on the motor. Runs as she should and in idle speed I have not problems. + +The probelms I see show up when putting it into gear. I have heard your not suppose to put it into gear when not in a tank or water but to make sure it works I did. I put it in forward and I can hear a little noise coming form the lower unit shaft/ lower unit area. when I bump up the rpm's just a 100 or so the noise goes away. + +When back at idel in neutral the motor makes no noise. I placed it in reverse and the noise is more noticeable but again when I bump up rpm's just a bit the noise goes away completely. Is this normal due to the lack of resistance from water? + + +I pulled the lower unit back off and looked it over again but nothing stood out. I replaced and adjusted all linkages both directions but have no change. When i tested it again it does the same thing. I tried to upload a video of the video to youtube. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s4tzIs3uGw8&feature=em-upload_owner + +Am I missing some adjustment? Is this normal? I'm affraid I will drop it in the water and it will do the same thing or the sound will be covered by the water till something really goes bad. + +One last question does anyone have a service manuel for this motor? + + +Thanks so much in advance. I just wnat to take the family fishing!!!!",have you tried it without the prop installed?,have you tried it without the prop installed?,18v is too high..this is probably a bad regulator...one question just out of curiosity...is the battery new on the engine that reads high? +"Thanks for reading my post. First time poting anything. I have read through the archives and found some info but have additonal questions. + +i hit a rock last year at 30 mph. looked like someone hit the lower unit casing with a hammer. Stopped the motor dead. After going back to the landing I was able to move the forward/reverse lever to neutral. The hole was big enough to leak out the gear oil. I found a replacement/used inspected lower unit. + +The replacement lower unit was a short shaft. The guy looked at mine and said he could swap out the shafts and all would work so he swaped out shafts and I brought it home. + +I bolted the unit on and started the motor with the graden hose hook up on the motor. Runs as she should and in idle speed I have not problems. + +The probelms I see show up when putting it into gear. I have heard your not suppose to put it into gear when not in a tank or water but to make sure it works I did. I put it in forward and I can hear a little noise coming form the lower unit shaft/ lower unit area. when I bump up the rpm's just a 100 or so the noise goes away. + +When back at idel in neutral the motor makes no noise. I placed it in reverse and the noise is more noticeable but again when I bump up rpm's just a bit the noise goes away completely. Is this normal due to the lack of resistance from water? + + +I pulled the lower unit back off and looked it over again but nothing stood out. I replaced and adjusted all linkages both directions but have no change. When i tested it again it does the same thing. I tried to upload a video of the video to youtube. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s4tzIs3uGw8&feature=em-upload_owner + +Am I missing some adjustment? Is this normal? I'm affraid I will drop it in the water and it will do the same thing or the sound will be covered by the water till something really goes bad. + +One last question does anyone have a service manuel for this motor? + + +Thanks so much in advance. I just wnat to take the family fishing!!!!","With the prop off you could also put a dial gauge on the prop shaft to see if the bearings are still good. Also just grab the shaft and give it a good wiggle to see how much play is in it. Oh man, that sounds dodgy... + +Stuart","With the prop off you could also put a dial gauge on the prop shaft to see if the bearings are still good. Also just grab the shaft and give it a good wiggle to see how much play is in it. Oh man, that sounds dodgy... + +Stuart",That is not the pitot hole for speedometer. +"Thanks for reading my post. First time poting anything. I have read through the archives and found some info but have additonal questions. + +i hit a rock last year at 30 mph. looked like someone hit the lower unit casing with a hammer. Stopped the motor dead. After going back to the landing I was able to move the forward/reverse lever to neutral. The hole was big enough to leak out the gear oil. I found a replacement/used inspected lower unit. + +The replacement lower unit was a short shaft. The guy looked at mine and said he could swap out the shafts and all would work so he swaped out shafts and I brought it home. + +I bolted the unit on and started the motor with the graden hose hook up on the motor. Runs as she should and in idle speed I have not problems. + +The probelms I see show up when putting it into gear. I have heard your not suppose to put it into gear when not in a tank or water but to make sure it works I did. I put it in forward and I can hear a little noise coming form the lower unit shaft/ lower unit area. when I bump up the rpm's just a 100 or so the noise goes away. + +When back at idel in neutral the motor makes no noise. I placed it in reverse and the noise is more noticeable but again when I bump up rpm's just a bit the noise goes away completely. Is this normal due to the lack of resistance from water? + + +I pulled the lower unit back off and looked it over again but nothing stood out. I replaced and adjusted all linkages both directions but have no change. When i tested it again it does the same thing. I tried to upload a video of the video to youtube. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s4tzIs3uGw8&feature=em-upload_owner + +Am I missing some adjustment? Is this normal? I'm affraid I will drop it in the water and it will do the same thing or the sound will be covered by the water till something really goes bad. + +One last question does anyone have a service manuel for this motor? + + +Thanks so much in advance. I just wnat to take the family fishing!!!!","DangarStu said: + + + + With the prop off you could also put a dial gauge on the prop shaft to see if the bearings are still good. Also just grab the shaft and give it a good wiggle to see how much play is in it. Oh man, that sounds dodgy... + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +Thanks I'm gonna try with the prop off/ then checkbearings. I called where i picked up the lower unit and they are going to gothrough it again and see if they missed anything. + +I stopped by two shops and they both said the clutch dog is not engaging fullytill the rpm's go up. Both said it was adjustment. I retried adjustments invarious increments but no luck and had same results. I'm going to pull prop andrun then drop lower unit and run to make sure its nothing else and I can pinpoint that it’s the lower unit. I think the unit is bad or has an issue. + +Its and inspected and used unit and I'm now thinking---worn out!","DangarStu said: + + + + With the prop off you could also put a dial gauge on the prop shaft to see if the bearings are still good. Also just grab the shaft and give it a good wiggle to see how much play is in it. Oh man, that sounds dodgy... + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +Thanks I'm gonna try with the prop off/ then checkbearings. I called where i picked up the lower unit and they are going to gothrough it again and see if they missed anything. + +I stopped by two shops and they both said the clutch dog is not engaging fullytill the rpm's go up. Both said it was adjustment. I retried adjustments invarious increments but no luck and had same results. I'm going to pull prop andrun then drop lower unit and run to make sure its nothing else and I can pinpoint that it’s the lower unit. I think the unit is bad or has an issue. + +Its and inspected and used unit and I'm now thinking---worn out!","fisherman421 said: + + + + I'm new to the forum but have read several posts in the past and successfully used some of the advise given. Thanks in advance. +I purchased a used Sea Hunt 186 with a Yamaha 115 2 stroke both 2003 at the end of last year and launched on Saturday Jun 6 2015, with fresh high test gas. Motor runs fine above 1500 RPM but stalls below 1200 and will not come to idle. Starting it at high rev then putting into gear the motor stalls. We got in ok but was a little nerve wracking. Also burned 10 gallons in about an hours and a half cruising at around 1500 to 2000 RPS inside water way. Basically going slow not on plane. Water separator filter has been replaced, fuel filter emptied and screen cleaned, new plugs gaped at .039. Going to look at the idle mix adjustments 5/8s. Any and all comments would greatly be appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +OLD POST: +trying to reach out to everyone that has carb issues on the 1980's thru early 2000's Yamaha 2 stroke v4 115. HOPEFULLY this will help any future owners figuring out what their carb issue is. It took me quite some messing around, trial and error, etc., to figure this out. + +I finally narrowed the poor idle, bog, stalling, issue. The below process is ONLY for LOW SPEED. If you have mid or top end bog, you have clogged main jets! They are found in the fuel bowl (bottom of carb) area. This how to will NOT cover mid/top end bog. + +SIMPLE HOW TO: +On the top of each carb you'll see TWO brass plugs. These must be removed, as well as the idle mixture screws (2 on each carb). Under teh brass plugs you will see FOUR small holes in each open area. I use a small welding rod tip to clean each opening. Be careful. Spray carb cleaner or similar to aid in cleaning. +NEXT, at the opening where the choke butterflies are, on TOP you will see TWO jets. These must be removed and cleaned. I also use a welding rod tip to clean out the junk. Spray carb cleaner as well. + +Reassemble. Factory calls for 5/8 turns out on each mixture screw. + +I battled the ""lean sneeze"" carb backfire/stall issue for quite some time. Finally figured out which part of the carb controlled LOW SPEED/IDLE. +Lean sneeze is where you hear a pop in the carb area when idling. Sometime the motor would stall, sometimes not. Seemed to run better on partial choke. + +---------------- +Now if you have a bog when going to full throttle or mid range, you likely have a main jet(s) that are clogged. They are located at the LOWER end of the carbs. OTHER ISSUES CAN BE: clogged fuel filter, weak fuel pump, collapsed fuel line/internal part of fuel line. ALL of which I had replaced when I was trying to figure stuff out. + +I must say that these yamaha carbs have been the most finicky carbs I've ever owned. They seem like they constantly get gummed up with old fuel. ANd I use E0 - non ethanol. Sometimes seems I'm wasting my time with E0. The good news is, I can have both carbs out, cleaned, and re-installed in just over an hour. + +Hope this brief HOW TO helps folks." +"Thanks for reading my post. First time poting anything. I have read through the archives and found some info but have additonal questions. + +i hit a rock last year at 30 mph. looked like someone hit the lower unit casing with a hammer. Stopped the motor dead. After going back to the landing I was able to move the forward/reverse lever to neutral. The hole was big enough to leak out the gear oil. I found a replacement/used inspected lower unit. + +The replacement lower unit was a short shaft. The guy looked at mine and said he could swap out the shafts and all would work so he swaped out shafts and I brought it home. + +I bolted the unit on and started the motor with the graden hose hook up on the motor. Runs as she should and in idle speed I have not problems. + +The probelms I see show up when putting it into gear. I have heard your not suppose to put it into gear when not in a tank or water but to make sure it works I did. I put it in forward and I can hear a little noise coming form the lower unit shaft/ lower unit area. when I bump up the rpm's just a 100 or so the noise goes away. + +When back at idel in neutral the motor makes no noise. I placed it in reverse and the noise is more noticeable but again when I bump up rpm's just a bit the noise goes away completely. Is this normal due to the lack of resistance from water? + + +I pulled the lower unit back off and looked it over again but nothing stood out. I replaced and adjusted all linkages both directions but have no change. When i tested it again it does the same thing. I tried to upload a video of the video to youtube. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s4tzIs3uGw8&feature=em-upload_owner + +Am I missing some adjustment? Is this normal? I'm affraid I will drop it in the water and it will do the same thing or the sound will be covered by the water till something really goes bad. + +One last question does anyone have a service manuel for this motor? + + +Thanks so much in advance. I just wnat to take the family fishing!!!!","So, I removed the prop and to my amazement the sound isgone???????? So what’s causing the noise??? I so nothing where the prop would be hitting or rubbing. still internal problems?","So, I removed the prop and to my amazement the sound isgone???????? So what’s causing the noise??? I so nothing where the prop would be hitting or rubbing. still internal problems?",Latex???........never mind. +"Thanks for reading my post. First time poting anything. I have read through the archives and found some info but have additonal questions. + +i hit a rock last year at 30 mph. looked like someone hit the lower unit casing with a hammer. Stopped the motor dead. After going back to the landing I was able to move the forward/reverse lever to neutral. The hole was big enough to leak out the gear oil. I found a replacement/used inspected lower unit. + +The replacement lower unit was a short shaft. The guy looked at mine and said he could swap out the shafts and all would work so he swaped out shafts and I brought it home. + +I bolted the unit on and started the motor with the graden hose hook up on the motor. Runs as she should and in idle speed I have not problems. + +The probelms I see show up when putting it into gear. I have heard your not suppose to put it into gear when not in a tank or water but to make sure it works I did. I put it in forward and I can hear a little noise coming form the lower unit shaft/ lower unit area. when I bump up the rpm's just a 100 or so the noise goes away. + +When back at idel in neutral the motor makes no noise. I placed it in reverse and the noise is more noticeable but again when I bump up rpm's just a bit the noise goes away completely. Is this normal due to the lack of resistance from water? + + +I pulled the lower unit back off and looked it over again but nothing stood out. I replaced and adjusted all linkages both directions but have no change. When i tested it again it does the same thing. I tried to upload a video of the video to youtube. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s4tzIs3uGw8&feature=em-upload_owner + +Am I missing some adjustment? Is this normal? I'm affraid I will drop it in the water and it will do the same thing or the sound will be covered by the water till something really goes bad. + +One last question does anyone have a service manuel for this motor? + + +Thanks so much in advance. I just wnat to take the family fishing!!!!","papyson said: + + + + have you tried it without the prop installed? + +Click to expand... + + + +So, I removed the prop and to my amazement the sound isgone???????? So what’s causing the noise??? I so nothing where the prop would be hitting or rubbing. still internal problems?","papyson said: + + + + have you tried it without the prop installed? + +Click to expand... + + + +So, I removed the prop and to my amazement the sound isgone???????? So what’s causing the noise??? I so nothing where the prop would be hitting or rubbing. still internal problems?",Got it apart and found a sheared drive shaft at the pinion gear. Thanks for the thread views and replies. Cheers. +"Hey guys, + +First off just want to say this forum is great, I use it a lot for my smaller Honda outboard quite often. But now I have one thing I'm stumped with!! + + +When I start my Yamaha outboard it has a very loud noise that sounds like the motor has a bad piston / crank letting loose or something of the sort it's pretty loud at start up only way to get rid of the sound is to raise the RPM's. It happens in forward, neutral and reverse. + + +I first heard the noise when I was out fishing with my wife, the boat just all of a sudden started doing it right as I went to start it up to move fishing spots. I would like to try and change it myself but from what I've been reading (self diagnosing lol) some say maybe a clutch dog or somewhere in my linkage that the noise could be coming from. No burning or grinding metal smells / smoke coming from the engine when cowling off and running on a hose. My compression checks out 110-112-110. + +I pulled the lower unit off after running it just to double check everything was good and replace water pump while I was down there but have since left the lower unit off until I figure out what's going on. I was also having troubles with the cooling line last time I ran it the water would only come out in a steady stream if I held the muffs on the motor very tight, but when running WOT the water would still trickle out of the cooling line. Is there a way to clean my cooling system I'm wondering if maybe a decent piece of vegetation got wedged some where. I pulled my cooling line off to check for blockages and nothing of the sort. + +Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated! + +Thanks, Tom!","Hi Tom + +If you run the motor with the lower unit off does it still make this noise? When diagnosing problems I always start by trying to isolate parts of the system and help narrow down the cause. It could be a crankcase bearing, could even be the flywheel hitting something, could be something in your gear case. If you leave the motor switched off (lanyard out, spark plugs disconnected for safety) and put a socket on the flywheel nut then turn it slowly clockwise, do you feel or hear anything strange? + +Stuart","Hi Tom + +If you run the motor with the lower unit off does it still make this noise? When diagnosing problems I always start by trying to isolate parts of the system and help narrow down the cause. It could be a crankcase bearing, could even be the flywheel hitting something, could be something in your gear case. If you leave the motor switched off (lanyard out, spark plugs disconnected for safety) and put a socket on the flywheel nut then turn it slowly clockwise, do you feel or hear anything strange? + +Stuart","OK thank you. I know there’s a major concern with 225 an exhaust corrosion issues. Not sure if this year motor, a 2006 still suffers from this. Too bad because it’s a solid engine just a $3500 repair when needed." +"Hey guys, + +First off just want to say this forum is great, I use it a lot for my smaller Honda outboard quite often. But now I have one thing I'm stumped with!! + + +When I start my Yamaha outboard it has a very loud noise that sounds like the motor has a bad piston / crank letting loose or something of the sort it's pretty loud at start up only way to get rid of the sound is to raise the RPM's. It happens in forward, neutral and reverse. + + +I first heard the noise when I was out fishing with my wife, the boat just all of a sudden started doing it right as I went to start it up to move fishing spots. I would like to try and change it myself but from what I've been reading (self diagnosing lol) some say maybe a clutch dog or somewhere in my linkage that the noise could be coming from. No burning or grinding metal smells / smoke coming from the engine when cowling off and running on a hose. My compression checks out 110-112-110. + +I pulled the lower unit off after running it just to double check everything was good and replace water pump while I was down there but have since left the lower unit off until I figure out what's going on. I was also having troubles with the cooling line last time I ran it the water would only come out in a steady stream if I held the muffs on the motor very tight, but when running WOT the water would still trickle out of the cooling line. Is there a way to clean my cooling system I'm wondering if maybe a decent piece of vegetation got wedged some where. I pulled my cooling line off to check for blockages and nothing of the sort. + +Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated! + +Thanks, Tom!","Could be (amongst a lot of other things) a bad gudgeon pin/bearing. There is a simple test. Take out the spark plugs and put a long piece of dowel or similar down one of the plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand until the dowel shows that that cylinder is a TDC (top of the stroke). Rotate the flywheel another 3 or 4 degress past TDC then stop. Next push firmly on the dowel to see if the piston can be moved by the dowel. Do this for each cylinder by rotating each one just past TDC. On a good engine the piston will not move. On an older engine you might just detect a very tiny movement. ON a bad engine you will feel a definite movement and usually hear a 'click/clunk' type noise. This test gives a rough check of both the gudgeon and big end bearings. It isn't perfect, but is a quick way to check for what is a reasonably common problem.","Could be (amongst a lot of other things) a bad gudgeon pin/bearing. There is a simple test. Take out the spark plugs and put a long piece of dowel or similar down one of the plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand until the dowel shows that that cylinder is a TDC (top of the stroke). Rotate the flywheel another 3 or 4 degress past TDC then stop. Next push firmly on the dowel to see if the piston can be moved by the dowel. Do this for each cylinder by rotating each one just past TDC. On a good engine the piston will not move. On an older engine you might just detect a very tiny movement. ON a bad engine you will feel a definite movement and usually hear a 'click/clunk' type noise. This test gives a rough check of both the gudgeon and big end bearings. It isn't perfect, but is a quick way to check for what is a reasonably common problem.","Hello. I have an Eberspacher air heater, which I believe is similar to or the same as Espar? The unit is probably 30 years old and I'm not exactly sure of the model number, but I think it's in the D7/D8 category. It shut down in the middle of a heating cycle due to fuel starvation problems. The fuel supply is some distance from the heater, so there is an auxilliary pump that supplies a small reservoir, about the size of a cigarette pack. The reservoir has a float and needle valve, and a hose from the bottom of this goes to the fuel metering pump. With the hose disconnected between the metering pump and the furnace we attempted a start to see how much fuel was being pumped. The pumped clicked but no fuel came out. We took all this apart and cleaned a bunch of gunk out of the reservoir - also removed and cleaned the spring/ball valve within the metering pump, as well as the screen on the input side. With it all back together except for the fuel line to the furnace, we again attempted a start - the metering pump clicked, and began pumping fuel (into a cup). We shut it off and connected the fuel line to the pump, but not to the furnace, so we could easily fill that line with fuel before connecting it. Did another start and, no clicking from the metering pump. We tried waiting 15 minutes, pushing the reset button on the furnace, turning off the power circuit breaker for 15 minutes - all to no avail. If left on for the duration, the furnace goes through a complete attempt to start, with air fan blowing, glow plug, and eventual shut down when it doesn't light. The auxilliary pump that supplies the reservoir comes on after about 25 seconds, but the metering pump, which initially started at the same time, no longer starts. Is there some sort of ""failsafe"" mode that got turned on from our half-start cycles to clear the fuel system? There is no fuel in the combustion chamber. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. +~Loren" +"Hey guys, + +First off just want to say this forum is great, I use it a lot for my smaller Honda outboard quite often. But now I have one thing I'm stumped with!! + + +When I start my Yamaha outboard it has a very loud noise that sounds like the motor has a bad piston / crank letting loose or something of the sort it's pretty loud at start up only way to get rid of the sound is to raise the RPM's. It happens in forward, neutral and reverse. + + +I first heard the noise when I was out fishing with my wife, the boat just all of a sudden started doing it right as I went to start it up to move fishing spots. I would like to try and change it myself but from what I've been reading (self diagnosing lol) some say maybe a clutch dog or somewhere in my linkage that the noise could be coming from. No burning or grinding metal smells / smoke coming from the engine when cowling off and running on a hose. My compression checks out 110-112-110. + +I pulled the lower unit off after running it just to double check everything was good and replace water pump while I was down there but have since left the lower unit off until I figure out what's going on. I was also having troubles with the cooling line last time I ran it the water would only come out in a steady stream if I held the muffs on the motor very tight, but when running WOT the water would still trickle out of the cooling line. Is there a way to clean my cooling system I'm wondering if maybe a decent piece of vegetation got wedged some where. I pulled my cooling line off to check for blockages and nothing of the sort. + +Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated! + +Thanks, Tom!","aliboy said: + + + + Could be (amongst a lot of other things) a bad gudgeon pin/bearing. There is a simple test. Take out the spark plugs and put a long piece of dowel or similar down one of the plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand until the dowel shows that that cylinder is a TDC (top of the stroke). Rotate the flywheel another 3 or 4 degress past TDC then stop. Next push firmly on the dowel to see if the piston can be moved by the dowel. Do this for each cylinder by rotating each one just past TDC. On a good engine the piston will not move. On an older engine you might just detect a very tiny movement. ON a bad engine you will feel a definite movement and usually hear a 'click/clunk' type noise. This test gives a rough check of both the gudgeon and big end bearings. It isn't perfect, but is a quick way to check for what is a reasonably common problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you guys for the quick response!! I do have the lower unit removed and found that I had a broken control bracket. I ordered a new one $44... That may have been some of the noise I had thought was the lower crank vibrating around in there. But after letting it run for 10-15 seconds the flywheel does have a rough motion to it I wondered if one of my magnets came off the inside of the flywheel or maybe I'm just over thinking this whole thing and it's just simply a new control arm that I needed. I took off the pull start cover and tried to get down into the flywheel to check it out but I do not have a fly wheel puller so I was a stand still. Motor runs great with lower unit not on, but still some off noise coming from the flywheel. I'm going to get a puller this week and try to get in there just for peace of mind I know everything is good to go for this motor. Is it possible I'm missing a couple magnets and my timing / spark is being thrown off? + +I did not try the wood dowel trick yet, but I really do appreciate the input. As for now waiting on a couple parts for the motor and we'll see what happens!","aliboy said: + + + + Could be (amongst a lot of other things) a bad gudgeon pin/bearing. There is a simple test. Take out the spark plugs and put a long piece of dowel or similar down one of the plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand until the dowel shows that that cylinder is a TDC (top of the stroke). Rotate the flywheel another 3 or 4 degress past TDC then stop. Next push firmly on the dowel to see if the piston can be moved by the dowel. Do this for each cylinder by rotating each one just past TDC. On a good engine the piston will not move. On an older engine you might just detect a very tiny movement. ON a bad engine you will feel a definite movement and usually hear a 'click/clunk' type noise. This test gives a rough check of both the gudgeon and big end bearings. It isn't perfect, but is a quick way to check for what is a reasonably common problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you guys for the quick response!! I do have the lower unit removed and found that I had a broken control bracket. I ordered a new one $44... That may have been some of the noise I had thought was the lower crank vibrating around in there. But after letting it run for 10-15 seconds the flywheel does have a rough motion to it I wondered if one of my magnets came off the inside of the flywheel or maybe I'm just over thinking this whole thing and it's just simply a new control arm that I needed. I took off the pull start cover and tried to get down into the flywheel to check it out but I do not have a fly wheel puller so I was a stand still. Motor runs great with lower unit not on, but still some off noise coming from the flywheel. I'm going to get a puller this week and try to get in there just for peace of mind I know everything is good to go for this motor. Is it possible I'm missing a couple magnets and my timing / spark is being thrown off? + +I did not try the wood dowel trick yet, but I really do appreciate the input. As for now waiting on a couple parts for the motor and we'll see what happens!","New gauges are fine, but if you want to do it right and save yourself a lot of future problems, just rewire the whole forward section, starting from the wiring harness forward. I know it's a PITA, because I've done it several times on old boats. But when you're done, you'll have confidence that things will work properly. Use top notch marine grade (tinned) stranded wire. Seal every connection with self-sealing connectors, or heat shrink tubes. I also use liquid electrical tape on all terminal connections. Use string tags to identify each wire and make liberal use wire guides." +"Hey guys, + +First off just want to say this forum is great, I use it a lot for my smaller Honda outboard quite often. But now I have one thing I'm stumped with!! + + +When I start my Yamaha outboard it has a very loud noise that sounds like the motor has a bad piston / crank letting loose or something of the sort it's pretty loud at start up only way to get rid of the sound is to raise the RPM's. It happens in forward, neutral and reverse. + + +I first heard the noise when I was out fishing with my wife, the boat just all of a sudden started doing it right as I went to start it up to move fishing spots. I would like to try and change it myself but from what I've been reading (self diagnosing lol) some say maybe a clutch dog or somewhere in my linkage that the noise could be coming from. No burning or grinding metal smells / smoke coming from the engine when cowling off and running on a hose. My compression checks out 110-112-110. + +I pulled the lower unit off after running it just to double check everything was good and replace water pump while I was down there but have since left the lower unit off until I figure out what's going on. I was also having troubles with the cooling line last time I ran it the water would only come out in a steady stream if I held the muffs on the motor very tight, but when running WOT the water would still trickle out of the cooling line. Is there a way to clean my cooling system I'm wondering if maybe a decent piece of vegetation got wedged some where. I pulled my cooling line off to check for blockages and nothing of the sort. + +Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated! + +Thanks, Tom!","tmetz said: + + + + Thank you guys for the quick response!! I do have the lower unit removed and found that I had a broken control bracket. I ordered a new one $44... That may have been some of the noise I had thought was the lower crank vibrating around in there. But after letting it run for 10-15 seconds the flywheel does have a rough motion to it I wondered if one of my magnets came off the inside of the flywheel or maybe I'm just over thinking this whole thing and it's just simply a new control arm that I needed. I took off the pull start cover and tried to get down into the flywheel to check it out but I do not have a fly wheel puller so I was a stand still. Motor runs great with lower unit not on, but still some off noise coming from the flywheel. I'm going to get a puller this week and try to get in there just for peace of mind I know everything is good to go for this motor. Is it possible I'm missing a couple magnets and my timing / spark is being thrown off? + +I did not try the wood dowel trick yet, but I really do appreciate the input. As for now waiting on a couple parts for the motor and we'll see what happens! + +Click to expand... + + +I took the boat out for its first trip since putting in the new water pump and all and the noise is still there at a low idle rpm.? R + +I I attached a video of the motor running +http://youtu.be/nVmtBPcKteYv","tmetz said: + + + + Thank you guys for the quick response!! I do have the lower unit removed and found that I had a broken control bracket. I ordered a new one $44... That may have been some of the noise I had thought was the lower crank vibrating around in there. But after letting it run for 10-15 seconds the flywheel does have a rough motion to it I wondered if one of my magnets came off the inside of the flywheel or maybe I'm just over thinking this whole thing and it's just simply a new control arm that I needed. I took off the pull start cover and tried to get down into the flywheel to check it out but I do not have a fly wheel puller so I was a stand still. Motor runs great with lower unit not on, but still some off noise coming from the flywheel. I'm going to get a puller this week and try to get in there just for peace of mind I know everything is good to go for this motor. Is it possible I'm missing a couple magnets and my timing / spark is being thrown off? + +I did not try the wood dowel trick yet, but I really do appreciate the input. As for now waiting on a couple parts for the motor and we'll see what happens! + +Click to expand... + + +I took the boat out for its first trip since putting in the new water pump and all and the noise is still there at a low idle rpm.? R + +I I attached a video of the motor running +http://youtu.be/nVmtBPcKteYv","Ayuh,... Who's steering system is it,..?? + +Boat manufacturers don't usually build their Own.." +"Hey guys, + +First off just want to say this forum is great, I use it a lot for my smaller Honda outboard quite often. But now I have one thing I'm stumped with!! + + +When I start my Yamaha outboard it has a very loud noise that sounds like the motor has a bad piston / crank letting loose or something of the sort it's pretty loud at start up only way to get rid of the sound is to raise the RPM's. It happens in forward, neutral and reverse. + + +I first heard the noise when I was out fishing with my wife, the boat just all of a sudden started doing it right as I went to start it up to move fishing spots. I would like to try and change it myself but from what I've been reading (self diagnosing lol) some say maybe a clutch dog or somewhere in my linkage that the noise could be coming from. No burning or grinding metal smells / smoke coming from the engine when cowling off and running on a hose. My compression checks out 110-112-110. + +I pulled the lower unit off after running it just to double check everything was good and replace water pump while I was down there but have since left the lower unit off until I figure out what's going on. I was also having troubles with the cooling line last time I ran it the water would only come out in a steady stream if I held the muffs on the motor very tight, but when running WOT the water would still trickle out of the cooling line. Is there a way to clean my cooling system I'm wondering if maybe a decent piece of vegetation got wedged some where. I pulled my cooling line off to check for blockages and nothing of the sort. + +Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated! + +Thanks, Tom!","aliboy said: + + + + Could be (amongst a lot of other things) a bad gudgeon pin/bearing. There is a simple test. Take out the spark plugs and put a long piece of dowel or similar down one of the plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand until the dowel shows that that cylinder is a TDC (top of the stroke). Rotate the flywheel another 3 or 4 degress past TDC then stop. Next push firmly on the dowel to see if the piston can be moved by the dowel. Do this for each cylinder by rotating each one just past TDC. On a good engine the piston will not move. On an older engine you might just detect a very tiny movement. ON a bad engine you will feel a definite movement and usually hear a 'click/clunk' type noise. This test gives a rough check of both the gudgeon and big end bearings. It isn't perfect, but is a quick way to check for what is a reasonably common problem. + +Click to expand... + + + +Can't thank you guys enough for all the little tricks to try, I just tried the dowel trick using a small piece of wood I cut down to make work. Just passed TDC I get zero movement on any of the cylinders all 3 remain in place and will not budge. After that i rotate engine with plugs out no wierd noises coming from internal of engine so far. Seems my bearings are okay with this easy test, it was very helpful!! Thank you!","aliboy said: + + + + Could be (amongst a lot of other things) a bad gudgeon pin/bearing. There is a simple test. Take out the spark plugs and put a long piece of dowel or similar down one of the plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand until the dowel shows that that cylinder is a TDC (top of the stroke). Rotate the flywheel another 3 or 4 degress past TDC then stop. Next push firmly on the dowel to see if the piston can be moved by the dowel. Do this for each cylinder by rotating each one just past TDC. On a good engine the piston will not move. On an older engine you might just detect a very tiny movement. ON a bad engine you will feel a definite movement and usually hear a 'click/clunk' type noise. This test gives a rough check of both the gudgeon and big end bearings. It isn't perfect, but is a quick way to check for what is a reasonably common problem. + +Click to expand... + + + +Can't thank you guys enough for all the little tricks to try, I just tried the dowel trick using a small piece of wood I cut down to make work. Just passed TDC I get zero movement on any of the cylinders all 3 remain in place and will not budge. After that i rotate engine with plugs out no wierd noises coming from internal of engine so far. Seems my bearings are okay with this easy test, it was very helpful!! Thank you!",there is an inline fuse in the wiring harness under the cowl... +"Hello to the group. + +I have a Yamaha V4 2 stroke motor running pre-mix and have some thoughts on how it operates. Perhaps it might help others. + +These motors tend to be hard to start when cold. There have been postings by other authors on this topic. My motor was quite hard to start when cold until I learned this little trick. + +Here's what I do to get my Yamaha running. As always, start by pumping the fuel line primer bulb until it is firm. Close the choke either using the choke rod or press in on the start key in the control unit. This will close the choke with the electric choke motor. Crank the motor with the starter with the choke closed. The motor will either start or it won't. If it does not, stop cranking and open the choke. Wait for a few seconds. Crank the motor again and after a few seconds and while still cranking, close the choke. Continue cranking for 5 seconds or so. + +Repeat this procedure until the motor starts. Just remember to close the choke WHILE CRANKING. Mine usually starts after a couple of attempts. Once the motor ""kicks"", it means that fuel is finally reaching the plugs. The fuel mixture has to travel quite a distance from the carbs to the plugs. The motor should now start if every thing else is working and adjusted properly. + +Another thing that I've found- if a certain small in-line glass fuse pops on the motor, the tilt/trim switch and the starter will not work- the motor seems dead. It is a 20 amp fuse located near the fuel pump in a black rubber housing. It would be a good idea to carry a spare fuse. Having a spare might get you ashore sometime. + +Other than these small details, the motor is simple (no complicated fuel or electrical systems) and bullet proof and if it has fuel and spark, it will run. Since it runs on pre-mix, the motor always is lubricated. It tend to be fuel thirsty though. Hope this helps someone else.",The motor is a 115 hp...,The motor is a 115 hp...,"Wanna help him - tell him DON'T. + +Vacuum advance equipped units are not MARINE rated. Best solution if to get a marine rated unit and go from there. + +Most units with the vacuumm advance also have the springs and weights on the inside." +"Hello to the group. + +I have a Yamaha V4 2 stroke motor running pre-mix and have some thoughts on how it operates. Perhaps it might help others. + +These motors tend to be hard to start when cold. There have been postings by other authors on this topic. My motor was quite hard to start when cold until I learned this little trick. + +Here's what I do to get my Yamaha running. As always, start by pumping the fuel line primer bulb until it is firm. Close the choke either using the choke rod or press in on the start key in the control unit. This will close the choke with the electric choke motor. Crank the motor with the starter with the choke closed. The motor will either start or it won't. If it does not, stop cranking and open the choke. Wait for a few seconds. Crank the motor again and after a few seconds and while still cranking, close the choke. Continue cranking for 5 seconds or so. + +Repeat this procedure until the motor starts. Just remember to close the choke WHILE CRANKING. Mine usually starts after a couple of attempts. Once the motor ""kicks"", it means that fuel is finally reaching the plugs. The fuel mixture has to travel quite a distance from the carbs to the plugs. The motor should now start if every thing else is working and adjusted properly. + +Another thing that I've found- if a certain small in-line glass fuse pops on the motor, the tilt/trim switch and the starter will not work- the motor seems dead. It is a 20 amp fuse located near the fuel pump in a black rubber housing. It would be a good idea to carry a spare fuse. Having a spare might get you ashore sometime. + +Other than these small details, the motor is simple (no complicated fuel or electrical systems) and bullet proof and if it has fuel and spark, it will run. Since it runs on pre-mix, the motor always is lubricated. It tend to be fuel thirsty though. Hope this helps someone else.","Try your procedure with the fast idle lifted about 1/3rd throttle. It will start even faster. Those engines are pretty bullet proof, but a 150hp engine on the same hull may burn less fuel. Those SWS115's are terribly thirsty for some reason.","Try your procedure with the fast idle lifted about 1/3rd throttle. It will start even faster. Those engines are pretty bullet proof, but a 150hp engine on the same hull may burn less fuel. Those SWS115's are terribly thirsty for some reason.","Considering the engines age, there is good chance the cooling system has corrosion that is blocking the necessary passages needed for cooling the engine. Pull the head covers off and look at the condition of these passages. When you replaced the thermostat, what did the old stat look like? Because if it was in bad condition, such as corroded, that is a good indicator of how the cooling system looks." +Anyone know what this problem is please. Its a Yahama VMAX 150.,Flat battery or bad battery cable connection or bad battery switch are possible causes.,Flat battery or bad battery cable connection or bad battery switch are possible causes.,"What kind of grease do you put in there? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... See my signature, it Certainly applies here,.... Any grease at all will work, just fine,...." +Several friends have been talking about 2 stroke 30 hp motor and how it takes a 40 hp 4 stroke to have the same speed on the same boat. Any truth to this??,"Two stoke and four stroke motors have very different power curves which gives them a different feel to the way they accelerate. Once they are both running at their peak RPM I would imagine the most significant difference would be the fact that four stroke motors are heavier and cause the hull to sit differently in the water. + +Stuart","Two stoke and four stroke motors have very different power curves which gives them a different feel to the way they accelerate. Once they are both running at their peak RPM I would imagine the most significant difference would be the fact that four stroke motors are heavier and cause the hull to sit differently in the water. + +Stuart",Hook up a timing light and see if you have steady spark.---------Check all 4 cylinders. +Several friends have been talking about 2 stroke 30 hp motor and how it takes a 40 hp 4 stroke to have the same speed on the same boat. Any truth to this??,The modern 4 strokes deliver all the power an old 2-stroke did without the 2-stroke hassles.,The modern 4 strokes deliver all the power an old 2-stroke did without the 2-stroke hassles.,"Wanna help him - tell him DON'T. + +Vacuum advance equipped units are not MARINE rated. Best solution if to get a marine rated unit and go from there. + +Most units with the vacuumm advance also have the springs and weights on the inside." +Several friends have been talking about 2 stroke 30 hp motor and how it takes a 40 hp 4 stroke to have the same speed on the same boat. Any truth to this??,Since you get twice as many power strokes it stands to reason it takes less engine to push the same water with a 2 stroke.,Since you get twice as many power strokes it stands to reason it takes less engine to push the same water with a 2 stroke.,"Hi Bondo. Thank you. Would prefer to weld if possible, if this can't be done can you suggest a good sealant. Cheers." +"I can't start my yamaha motor. The battery is fully charged. The motor turns over but won't start. The gas has been sitting in the tank for the last 8 months and the motor was run only once during that time. I will replace the fuel with new non ethanol fuel and retry to start it. Does anyone have any other suggestions in getting the motor to start. + +Question 2. I also have a trolling motor which I also can't start. The battery is fully charged. I tested the trolling motor and no power is going to it. Any ideas on what may be the problem. Thanks for your help.","I assume you were using gas pump fuel with ethanol and weren't using Marine Sta-bil all the time. You can change the fuel in the tank but its the fuel in the engine and clogs that are probably causing your problem with all that ethanol mess. I'd take the old gas from the tank and burn it off in your automoile. Dilluted with good gas, your auto will burn it. Check all fuel filters for water and refil the boat fuel tank. Pull the fuel line to the fuel rail in the engine adn let that fuel drain out. Have someone back there with a mason jar or something to put that fuel line in and then start pumping with the fuel bulb to push the rest of that stale gas out of the lines. Pump a quart through and fill the jar. Hook the line back up and pump until you feel resistance and see if it turns over. I've been there and done that with this ethanol blended fuel. I used to use it and would always add marine sta-bil to it and yet I stil had probs. These days, I gladly pay the premium for non-ethanol gas and still use marine sta-bil in it every time I fill up.","I assume you were using gas pump fuel with ethanol and weren't using Marine Sta-bil all the time. You can change the fuel in the tank but its the fuel in the engine and clogs that are probably causing your problem with all that ethanol mess. I'd take the old gas from the tank and burn it off in your automoile. Dilluted with good gas, your auto will burn it. Check all fuel filters for water and refil the boat fuel tank. Pull the fuel line to the fuel rail in the engine adn let that fuel drain out. Have someone back there with a mason jar or something to put that fuel line in and then start pumping with the fuel bulb to push the rest of that stale gas out of the lines. Pump a quart through and fill the jar. Hook the line back up and pump until you feel resistance and see if it turns over. I've been there and done that with this ethanol blended fuel. I used to use it and would always add marine sta-bil to it and yet I stil had probs. These days, I gladly pay the premium for non-ethanol gas and still use marine sta-bil in it every time I fill up.","the first thing I would look for is a disconnected wire that should go to the battery in that cramped up battery compartment...you may have to remove the battery to really look..the 2nd thing I would do is determine how the live well is wired..is there a separate wire coming off the battery for it? +that boat is a nightmare when it comes to wiring...had a fishing buddy had one same year...hope that's not the one you bought..its got a leak caused by battery acid..non fixable...now back to the wiring...that boat has too much wiring in my opinion..you can do almost everything from the front of the boat that you can do at the console..overall its just a hodgepodge of switches and stuff...and that vintage was not done to standards I would have...the overall approach once you start trouble shooting is to find out how its wired...you will have to have a decent knowledge of dc wiring to trouble shoot it correctly..and a decent meter..after a quick look-see it quit trying to find one thing that will fix everything...take a simple thing and concentrate on that...do the running lights work for example?....are the gauges backlights working?...is the voltmeter working?...just pick one thing and shoot that problem... when you find the problem you may luck up and fix a bunch of stuff...if not then pick another nonworking simple thing and proceed...you probably into a time consuming project...good luck...." +"Hello, + +I have a 1997 Yamaha 25 hp two stroke outboard motor that the carbs were rebuilt. The bottom carb is not getting any fuel. The top carb gets fuel and the motor cranks right up. I have replaced the fuel lines as well but the bottom carb is still not getting fuel. Has anyone had this happen? I have tried everything can anyone help me? Thank you in advance.","The needle valve in the bottom carb might be stuck in the closed position and is not allowing fuel into the carb. Generally when the needle valve starts to stick closed, it will need to be replaced.","The needle valve in the bottom carb might be stuck in the closed position and is not allowing fuel into the carb. Generally when the needle valve starts to stick closed, it will need to be replaced.","I’m not quite sure 5500 was my max.. I’ll check this coming weekend. I do know that it maxes out and I can still push the throttle more- but no extra speed. + + + +rejesterd said: + + + + I meant really empty.. like almost nothing in there. That really goes for smaller external tanks. So for yours, just use a stabilizer supplement. + +I've never cleaned out my internal tank, but I don't see a reason to unless fuel delivery appears to be a problem. If you somehow got great performance when running off a small auxiliary tank with fresh fuel, then maybe it would be a good idea to have someone drain/clean your tank. + +5500 sounds slightly low for max rpm, but it's within range. + +Click to expand..." +"Hello, + +I have a 1997 Yamaha 25 hp two stroke outboard motor that the carbs were rebuilt. The bottom carb is not getting any fuel. The top carb gets fuel and the motor cranks right up. I have replaced the fuel lines as well but the bottom carb is still not getting fuel. Has anyone had this happen? I have tried everything can anyone help me? Thank you in advance.","I would also start by checking the lines from the fuel pump. When diagnosing this type of problem it is good to start at the beginning and verify that fuel is making it to each next stage, finally ending at that needle valve. + +Stuart","I would also start by checking the lines from the fuel pump. When diagnosing this type of problem it is good to start at the beginning and verify that fuel is making it to each next stage, finally ending at that needle valve. + +Stuart","If one were paying a shop for labour, at times it is more cost effective for a mechanic to cut the parts apart. Then replace with new. The savings in labour will offset the cost of the parts." +"Hello, + +I have a 1997 Yamaha 25 hp two stroke outboard motor that the carbs were rebuilt. The bottom carb is not getting any fuel. The top carb gets fuel and the motor cranks right up. I have replaced the fuel lines as well but the bottom carb is still not getting fuel. Has anyone had this happen? I have tried everything can anyone help me? Thank you in advance.","DangarStu said: + + + + I would also start by checking the lines from the fuel pump. When diagnosing this type of problem it is good to start at the beginning and verify that fuel is making it to each next stage, finally ending at that needle valve. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +I agree with DangarStu...start at a point known to not have an issue and work toward where there is one.","DangarStu said: + + + + I would also start by checking the lines from the fuel pump. When diagnosing this type of problem it is good to start at the beginning and verify that fuel is making it to each next stage, finally ending at that needle valve. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +I agree with DangarStu...start at a point known to not have an issue and work toward where there is one.",It might be a bad spark plug...only costs a few bucks to find out! +"Hello, + +I have a 1997 Yamaha 25 hp two stroke outboard motor that the carbs were rebuilt. The bottom carb is not getting any fuel. The top carb gets fuel and the motor cranks right up. I have replaced the fuel lines as well but the bottom carb is still not getting fuel. Has anyone had this happen? I have tried everything can anyone help me? Thank you in advance.","lander12 said: + + + + I agree with DangarStu...start at a point known to not have an issue and work toward where there is one. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you guys, I will check the needle. All hoses have been replaced, its weird the top gets fuel but the bottom gets none.","lander12 said: + + + + I agree with DangarStu...start at a point known to not have an issue and work toward where there is one. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you guys, I will check the needle. All hoses have been replaced, its weird the top gets fuel but the bottom gets none.","I had an authorized dealer change out the filters during winterization last year. Oil tank is full. I will try unplugging the reserve this weekend along with cleaning all power cable / battery connections. + +Thanks for the help. I will let you know how it goes." +"Hello, + +I have a 1997 Yamaha 25 hp two stroke outboard motor that the carbs were rebuilt. The bottom carb is not getting any fuel. The top carb gets fuel and the motor cranks right up. I have replaced the fuel lines as well but the bottom carb is still not getting fuel. Has anyone had this happen? I have tried everything can anyone help me? Thank you in advance.","irizarry44 said: + + + + Thank you guys, I will check the needle. All hoses have been replaced, its weird the top gets fuel but the bottom gets none. + +Click to expand... + + +A stuck needle valve may very well be your problem. If it is stuck, it will not allow any fuel into the carb. A stuck needle valve is a curse of 2 stroke engines. Usually during a carb rebuild (like yours were), the needles are generally replaced as a matter of course. Yours might not have been. Please check it and let us know how it goes.","irizarry44 said: + + + + Thank you guys, I will check the needle. All hoses have been replaced, its weird the top gets fuel but the bottom gets none. + +Click to expand... + + +A stuck needle valve may very well be your problem. If it is stuck, it will not allow any fuel into the carb. A stuck needle valve is a curse of 2 stroke engines. Usually during a carb rebuild (like yours were), the needles are generally replaced as a matter of course. Yours might not have been. Please check it and let us know how it goes.","Does this boat have smart craft gauges? The engines that were installed, are they new complete drop-ins?" +"Hello, + +I have a 1997 Yamaha 25 hp two stroke outboard motor that the carbs were rebuilt. The bottom carb is not getting any fuel. The top carb gets fuel and the motor cranks right up. I have replaced the fuel lines as well but the bottom carb is still not getting fuel. Has anyone had this happen? I have tried everything can anyone help me? Thank you in advance.","Take the fuel hose going into the bottom carburettor and put it in a jar then crank the motor with the ignition off (kill switch out). If fuel comes out the fuel hose then it is definitely your carburettor needle valve. If nothing comes out it is probably your fuel pump given you have replaced the lines. I have had lines that were new, but had been lying around the workshop for a while and insects had made nests in them. Just because they have never been used doesn't mean they aren't blocked! + +Stuart","Take the fuel hose going into the bottom carburettor and put it in a jar then crank the motor with the ignition off (kill switch out). If fuel comes out the fuel hose then it is definitely your carburettor needle valve. If nothing comes out it is probably your fuel pump given you have replaced the lines. I have had lines that were new, but had been lying around the workshop for a while and insects had made nests in them. Just because they have never been used doesn't mean they aren't blocked! + +Stuart","Jwharton said: + + + + I guess it might come to that, what's the worst that could happen, a new drive shaft or would there be damage to the water pump housing too? + +Want to to say thanks to you guys for putting those suggestions out there, appreciate that. +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Just tried running her with muffs on and fishing some plastic weed wipper chord into the out nozzle at the head a couple of times and run more Salt Away into her and it's peeing like a champ! Thinking I must have some scale or sand in there somewhere giving me circulating problems? Anyway I'm not going to do anything drastic for a few weeks as the Sockeye salmon are hitting hard out there and some big Coho are coming thru. + +Cheers" +"This is a photo of the broken cable/tube, I was hoping someone could tell me what it is. Sorry for the poor quality composition (super blurry, think the old iphone focused on the background) + +I'm also interested in what other maintenance should be done on this engine. + +It has been winterized and maintained by a couple different marinas for the past several years except for my winterizing last year. + +I plan to replace the water pump. + +Maybe the fuel filter, anything else I should plan to do to keep this engine running well?","I found out that this is a speedo cable, not a big deal i guess. + +I am wondering though if the ends should be taped off, or melted shut/pinched off somehow to prevent water and the like from entering the lines. + +Still wondering what other maintenance should be done other than water pump. THanks","I found out that this is a speedo cable, not a big deal i guess. + +I am wondering though if the ends should be taped off, or melted shut/pinched off somehow to prevent water and the like from entering the lines. + +Still wondering what other maintenance should be done other than water pump. THanks",Motor has to be running for it to shift.----Provide more details here.---Is there oil in the lower unit ?----Is it the correct oil ?----Is it contaminated with water ?---Was the motor running during your test ? +"This is a photo of the broken cable/tube, I was hoping someone could tell me what it is. Sorry for the poor quality composition (super blurry, think the old iphone focused on the background) + +I'm also interested in what other maintenance should be done on this engine. + +It has been winterized and maintained by a couple different marinas for the past several years except for my winterizing last year. + +I plan to replace the water pump. + +Maybe the fuel filter, anything else I should plan to do to keep this engine running well?","Plugging the end of the speedo cable isn't going to hurt. It is design to transfer air pressure to the sensor, not water. With regards to other maintenance, is it a four stroke or a two stroke? If it is a four stroke then replace the sump oil and oil filter periodically. Either way you should also replace the gearbox oil (and fibre washers) to both keep it fresh and check for water ingress through the oil seals. Also keep an eye on the condition of the spark plugs. Put grease in all the grease nipples and on all the linkages under the cowling. Maybe do an annual compression test so see what condition the cylinders are in. Don't forget that a lot of work during a service is really inspection. Make sure to put your eye over everything. + +Stuart","Plugging the end of the speedo cable isn't going to hurt. It is design to transfer air pressure to the sensor, not water. With regards to other maintenance, is it a four stroke or a two stroke? If it is a four stroke then replace the sump oil and oil filter periodically. Either way you should also replace the gearbox oil (and fibre washers) to both keep it fresh and check for water ingress through the oil seals. Also keep an eye on the condition of the spark plugs. Put grease in all the grease nipples and on all the linkages under the cowling. Maybe do an annual compression test so see what condition the cylinders are in. Don't forget that a lot of work during a service is really inspection. Make sure to put your eye over everything. + +Stuart",Install a 250 HP motor. +I have a 2006 yamaha 25hp outboard 25esh I just clean the carbs cause it was running ruff now it runs better but there is a popping or puff sound when idling and then dies I adjusted the idle screw which now idles without dying but still has a mist or pop any help would be great im a newbie so take it easy on me,here a video of it running,here a video of it running,"Well, meanwhile...back at plan A. Presuming by it's location, this is a salt water boat, with sea water intrusion through the unfilled bracket holes, and the hull did not suffer a trailer sinking, filling it with rain water. The boat might not have a soggy stern, with the speculated wood pulp filling. The top of the transom cap would be most likely a source of fresh water coming in, and if removed to repair, a better evaluation can be made. If by chance, the stern has soaked up a bit of the ocean, it stands a very good chance of still being sound, as found in the drilling's. + + +1. Remove the cap rail for repair, and get a good look underneath. +2. Bore out the lowest of the existing holes, and probe for solid wood. + +If in fact, you find you are good to go on a dry-out, cpes, fill, epoxy, and paint. And still have any doubts in your mind, or wish to strengthen the stern further, make up some stainless re-reinforcement backing plates for the engine bracket. + +By the way Jim, I think it would look really good with a teak cap rail!" +I have a 2006 yamaha 25hp outboard 25esh I just clean the carbs cause it was running ruff now it runs better but there is a popping or puff sound when idling and then dies I adjusted the idle screw which now idles without dying but still has a mist or pop any help would be great im a newbie so take it easy on me,"shanec said: + + + + + + + +here a video of it running + +Click to expand... + + +Your video is currently set to private on YouTube.","shanec said: + + + + + + + +here a video of it running + +Click to expand... + + +Your video is currently set to private on YouTube.",That's what my mechanic told me. I have water in one cylinder too. Hopefully it's the head gasket he is replacing this or next week. Fingers crossed. +I have a 2006 yamaha 25hp outboard 25esh I just clean the carbs cause it was running ruff now it runs better but there is a popping or puff sound when idling and then dies I adjusted the idle screw which now idles without dying but still has a mist or pop any help would be great im a newbie so take it easy on me,Ok try it now if the video quality is not good enough let me know and ill do it again,Ok try it now if the video quality is not good enough let me know and ill do it again,Received the tank I got off ebay. It is good shape inside and out except it leaked from around the fuel indicator window. Noticed it when I was sloshing it out upside down removing some fuel while flushing it out. The plastic window was deformed. Hard to explain how it's assembled but I've tried making a new one to hold the molded gasket into shape. That is covered by a piece of glass then sandwiched between the gasket and plastic screwed down. This made in Japan tank is different than a OMC metal tank. There are no parts available for the vent assembly and I'm assuming the whole assembly is replaced. Called Yamaha and they said the assembly is no longer made by them. Kind of wish I just bought a new plastic Yamaha tank now. +I have a 2006 yamaha 25hp outboard 25esh I just clean the carbs cause it was running ruff now it runs better but there is a popping or puff sound when idling and then dies I adjusted the idle screw which now idles without dying but still has a mist or pop any help would be great im a newbie so take it easy on me,"When you say you adjusted the idle screw, are you referring to the idle speed or the idle mixture? The pop may be it running a bit lean. Have you taken a look at the spark plugs? + +Stuart","When you say you adjusted the idle screw, are you referring to the idle speed or the idle mixture? The pop may be it running a bit lean. Have you taken a look at the spark plugs? + +Stuart",All it was was not enough oil in the oil tank as I did not want it spilling out again and though there was enough in there for now as I tested out the outboard. This Yamaha goes into a limp mode type warning and that is what was happening as when I put in more oil it ran right. I thought a buzzer of something went off when oil was low. +I have a 2006 yamaha 25hp outboard 25esh I just clean the carbs cause it was running ruff now it runs better but there is a popping or puff sound when idling and then dies I adjusted the idle screw which now idles without dying but still has a mist or pop any help would be great im a newbie so take it easy on me,I have changed the spark plugs and gapped them correctly it is the idle screw that I adjusted and I think I just found the problem on my lower card the low idle air/fuel mixture screw is broke off. The carb on top has one I thought that it was like the idle screw only one for both carbs does that seem right,I have changed the spark plugs and gapped them correctly it is the idle screw that I adjusted and I think I just found the problem on my lower card the low idle air/fuel mixture screw is broke off. The carb on top has one I thought that it was like the idle screw only one for both carbs does that seem right,"The D6 370 makes 300hp @ 2400rpm and that is around the peak torque for that engine. Whilst they don't publish curves for most outboards it seems that a typical 4 stroke will make around 60% power in the 3000 - 3500rpm range. For a pair of 250's that is also 300hp, although with higher rpm's and less torque. The smaller props compensate for the lower torque. Both sets of engines give you similar hp at good cruising rpm's. If you go Honda or Suzuki you get better gear ratios than Yamaha and can swing larger props which would help you. The Yamaha however is a 4.2l engine vs the 3.6l Honda and Suzuki, so maybe slightly better on torque down low with the extra displacement. + +To compare probable cruise powers, lets say you cruise the D6 at 2900rpm and the outboards at 4000rpm. Both reasonable numbers for looking after your engine loads. The D6 will make around 350hp and the 4 strokes around 75% (maybe more) of max hp, so around 375hp+. So once you are up and going there won't be much in it for performance, with a slight edge for the outboards. If you go for outboards the biggest thing will be to not over-prop them. Prop them for good WOT rpm's when fully loaded. If you did over-prop to get extra speed, that is where the difference in torque might hurt you. Do have a good think about the outboard gear ratios though as the Yamaha will swing a smaller diameter prop than the Honda or Zuke and that may be important." +I have a 2006 yamaha 25hp outboard 25esh I just clean the carbs cause it was running ruff now it runs better but there is a popping or puff sound when idling and then dies I adjusted the idle screw which now idles without dying but still has a mist or pop any help would be great im a newbie so take it easy on me,,,Remove that floor.------Determine if stringers need repair.-----Likely they are rotten.----Check transom as well. +"Hello hope someone might give me some ideas. + +I have a 2003 20hp 2 stroke yamaha. It's been a great motor and has never put a foot wrong. + +Until last time I took it out. It was fine at first but when it got up to temperature it started acting strangely. + +When you increase the throttle it suddenly jumps to a high revs. The same when you decrease, it goes from a high revs then suddenly jumps to going slow. + +It's like it can either go fast or slow, but not in between. + +I can't find anyone who knows. + +It's not the cables, because it is the same when i push the throttle by hand. The throttle mechanism seems ok, nothing obviously wrong. + +Help!","Is then happening when in gear or when in neutral? If it is happening when in gear, does the boat accelerate quickly or do the revs just rise? If so, there is a chance that the prop has spun on the shaft and you will need to get a new bushing pressed into it. + +Stuart","Is then happening when in gear or when in neutral? If it is happening when in gear, does the boat accelerate quickly or do the revs just rise? If so, there is a chance that the prop has spun on the shaft and you will need to get a new bushing pressed into it. + +Stuart","Fins might be part of the problem, but I am not sure they will fix the problem when removed. With the engines vertical (parallel to the transom), how high is the cavitation plate when compared to the bottom of the hull directly in front of the engine? If the engines are set too low that could explain your speed issue and also why the fins were fitted in the first place." +"Hey + +Would appreciate some ideas... (yamaha 9.9 HT 4 stroke almost new but been sitting for a few months) +Motor starts great with choke out only (not with choke in), runs fine +If I push choke in an rev it goes perfectly fine but dies suddenly after like 5-10 seconds + +Did find some yellow residue in the fuel lines + +Have pulled off the carb, cleaned thoroughly, changed the carb for a different carb +Cleaned out all the fuel lines and pump with rubbing alcohol +Improved a little with starting but still doing the same thing... + +Any ideas on what to try next?","Hey there + +Don't discount the possibility that you will need to clean the carb a couple of times. It is quiet possible that more of that residue has come through into the jets again. If they are plugged it will be running lean (which pulling the choke out will help with). + +Stuart","Hey there + +Don't discount the possibility that you will need to clean the carb a couple of times. It is quiet possible that more of that residue has come through into the jets again. If they are plugged it will be running lean (which pulling the choke out will help with). + +Stuart",error +"Hey + +Would appreciate some ideas... (yamaha 9.9 HT 4 stroke almost new but been sitting for a few months) +Motor starts great with choke out only (not with choke in), runs fine +If I push choke in an rev it goes perfectly fine but dies suddenly after like 5-10 seconds + +Did find some yellow residue in the fuel lines + +Have pulled off the carb, cleaned thoroughly, changed the carb for a different carb +Cleaned out all the fuel lines and pump with rubbing alcohol +Improved a little with starting but still doing the same thing... + +Any ideas on what to try next?","thanks for the advice Stuart... I think you may be right, I did clean the carb before the fuel system and ran it before cleaning the fuel lines so it's quite possible more of that yellow jelly stuff got in there. +Will give the carb another clean tomorrow + + + +DangarStu said: + + + + Hey there + +Don't discount the possibility that you will need to clean the carb a couple of times. It is quiet possible that more of that residue has come through into the jets again. If they are plugged it will be running lean (which pulling the choke out will help with). + +Stuart + +Click to expand...","thanks for the advice Stuart... I think you may be right, I did clean the carb before the fuel system and ran it before cleaning the fuel lines so it's quite possible more of that yellow jelly stuff got in there. +Will give the carb another clean tomorrow + + + +DangarStu said: + + + + Hey there + +Don't discount the possibility that you will need to clean the carb a couple of times. It is quiet possible that more of that residue has come through into the jets again. If they are plugged it will be running lean (which pulling the choke out will help with). + +Stuart + +Click to expand...","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,...... She looks like a fine ole ship,...... + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you, some soft spots in the floor. Is it possible to just lay marine plywood over existing floor?" +"my 1983 yamaha starts great, fast idles fine. When under power and cruising the motor suddenly bogged down and i could barely keep the boat on plain. It dropped from 30 mph to 12 mph max speed. I cleaned the fuel filter, blead the fuel line thinking maybe an air pocket but that didnt do it. however after i blead the line it ran fine for about a half mile then did it all over again. Not sure what else it could be. Any ideas would be helpful. + +thanks","It does sound like a fuel problem so just follow the system from one end to the other. Start with the tank: is the vent open properly? Are the valves in the bulb in the fuel line working correctly? Are the fittings on the fuel line seated properly? You've already done the filter so next is the fuel pump. Make sure it is sealed well, the reed valves and clean and correctly aligned and the membranes aren't torn or frayed. The final step in the fuel system is going to be carburettors which may need a clean. + +Also, any chance it is an overheat situation? + +Stuart","It does sound like a fuel problem so just follow the system from one end to the other. Start with the tank: is the vent open properly? Are the valves in the bulb in the fuel line working correctly? Are the fittings on the fuel line seated properly? You've already done the filter so next is the fuel pump. Make sure it is sealed well, the reed valves and clean and correctly aligned and the membranes aren't torn or frayed. The final step in the fuel system is going to be carburettors which may need a clean. + +Also, any chance it is an overheat situation? + +Stuart","It could possibly be a bad oil sensor. If the sensor is not working, it will send the warning because it thinks you are low on oil. It may also put the engine into a guardian mode and not allow you to run it at higher speeds. Not sure if this has happened to you, but just my 2 cents." +"my 1983 yamaha starts great, fast idles fine. When under power and cruising the motor suddenly bogged down and i could barely keep the boat on plain. It dropped from 30 mph to 12 mph max speed. I cleaned the fuel filter, blead the fuel line thinking maybe an air pocket but that didnt do it. however after i blead the line it ran fine for about a half mile then did it all over again. Not sure what else it could be. Any ideas would be helpful. + +thanks","DangarStu said: + + + + It does sound like a fuel problem so just follow the system from one end to the other. Start with the tank: is the vent open properly? Are the valves in the bulb in the fuel line working correctly? Are the fittings on the fuel line seated properly? You've already done the filter so next is the fuel pump. Make sure it is sealed well, the reed valves and clean and correctly aligned and the membranes aren't torn or frayed. The final step in the fuel system is going to be carburettors which may need a clean. + +Also, any chance it is an overheat situation? + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +thank you for your comments + +I dont think its an over heating issue because the water coming out of the discharge is still very cool. When i rev it up in neutral its fine. It also worked fine on plane for about 10-12 minutes after i cleared the fuel line and checked the filter. I pumped the bulb and could hear air entering the tank so i think its vented ok. i didnt see any leaks or loose screws etc on the fuel pump... carburators sounds like a big job to me... im not sure its worth putting that kind of money into a motor this old.","DangarStu said: + + + + It does sound like a fuel problem so just follow the system from one end to the other. Start with the tank: is the vent open properly? Are the valves in the bulb in the fuel line working correctly? Are the fittings on the fuel line seated properly? You've already done the filter so next is the fuel pump. Make sure it is sealed well, the reed valves and clean and correctly aligned and the membranes aren't torn or frayed. The final step in the fuel system is going to be carburettors which may need a clean. + +Also, any chance it is an overheat situation? + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +thank you for your comments + +I dont think its an over heating issue because the water coming out of the discharge is still very cool. When i rev it up in neutral its fine. It also worked fine on plane for about 10-12 minutes after i cleared the fuel line and checked the filter. I pumped the bulb and could hear air entering the tank so i think its vented ok. i didnt see any leaks or loose screws etc on the fuel pump... carburators sounds like a big job to me... im not sure its worth putting that kind of money into a motor this old.",Progress report? +"my 1983 yamaha starts great, fast idles fine. When under power and cruising the motor suddenly bogged down and i could barely keep the boat on plain. It dropped from 30 mph to 12 mph max speed. I cleaned the fuel filter, blead the fuel line thinking maybe an air pocket but that didnt do it. however after i blead the line it ran fine for about a half mile then did it all over again. Not sure what else it could be. Any ideas would be helpful. + +thanks","this is from bobby v +I have a 90 hp 2stroke and the same happened to me i have a key west and the pick up line in the gas tank had a small crack witch caused the motor to suck air, i hope this could be of some help","this is from bobby v +I have a 90 hp 2stroke and the same happened to me i have a key west and the pick up line in the gas tank had a small crack witch caused the motor to suck air, i hope this could be of some help",Cut the wire ties and remove the screws that hold the plastic piece that holds the fuel lines and you should be able to move everything just enough to get to the tstats. +"my 1983 yamaha starts great, fast idles fine. When under power and cruising the motor suddenly bogged down and i could barely keep the boat on plain. It dropped from 30 mph to 12 mph max speed. I cleaned the fuel filter, blead the fuel line thinking maybe an air pocket but that didnt do it. however after i blead the line it ran fine for about a half mile then did it all over again. Not sure what else it could be. Any ideas would be helpful. + +thanks","bobbyv said: + + + + this is from bobby v +I have a 90 hp 2stroke and the same happened to me i have a key west and the pick up line in the gas tank had a small crack witch caused the motor to suck air, i hope this could be of some help + +Click to expand... + + +Yes thats helpfull. I'll check that out and see if that's the issue. Hopefully it is since it sounds like an easy fix.","bobbyv said: + + + + this is from bobby v +I have a 90 hp 2stroke and the same happened to me i have a key west and the pick up line in the gas tank had a small crack witch caused the motor to suck air, i hope this could be of some help + +Click to expand... + + +Yes thats helpfull. I'll check that out and see if that's the issue. Hopefully it is since it sounds like an easy fix.",After market -----CDI----has a rectifier / regulator for that motor. +Took boat out and looked back and noticed oil everywhere. It was over filling the internal tank. Blew the cap off and oil shot out prop. Unplugged the wire on external tank so pump would stop running. But by then it was too late. Plugs must have got fouled idk. Is this an electrical problem or possibly the oil pump? Really would like to fix it myself.,What was the outcome? I'm having the same issue...,What was the outcome? I'm having the same issue...,"Mack11 said: + + + + So I tried that and the shift rod wont stay in reverse when I try to push it down. + +Click to expand... + + +Got neutral to not engage but it wanting to still slip when trying to go into reverse. I'm thinking it may be a bad clutch dog" +Took boat out and looked back and noticed oil everywhere. It was over filling the internal tank. Blew the cap off and oil shot out prop. Unplugged the wire on external tank so pump would stop running. But by then it was too late. Plugs must have got fouled idk. Is this an electrical problem or possibly the oil pump? Really would like to fix it myself.,"Jessman72 said: + + + + What was the outcome? I'm having the same issue... + +Click to expand... + +Yes I put a new sensor on that is in the tank by the motor. Fixed the problem. Make sure float isn't stuck and the cap is on correctly.","Jessman72 said: + + + + What was the outcome? I'm having the same issue... + +Click to expand... + +Yes I put a new sensor on that is in the tank by the motor. Fixed the problem. Make sure float isn't stuck and the cap is on correctly.","Thanks for your expertise. The first time it would not read and just twitched I probably was 1/2 full on both tanks. So acording to what you have said, I am assuming that resistance from the tank sending units drop the voltage at the guage as the fuel gets lower in the tanks. Thus we should read twelve volts with the sender wire taken off the tanks, and if tanks are 1/2 full it could read 6 volts at the guage if I read you correctly. That being the case it appears that the guage has gone bad because I do have the six volts at the guage wire. The last time I filled up the guage read full, but as the fuel was used the guage would not read again. So it looks like with full tanks we have 12 volts at the guage and it makes the guage work. But as the voltage drops by using fuel, the guage does not respond. + + + + + +makomark said: + + + + Need a little help understanding what you mean by ""6-8 volts there"". + +Most every fuel gauge I've touched in the past 30-odd-years has a +12VDC source. If that isn't present, most won't work at all. + +The quick test for the gauge is to remove the sender wire and ensure it has power (12 VDC supply). The gauge should sit at empty. short the SENDER terminal to ground and it should go FULL. (A few imported gauges will be 'backwards'.) If you wanna check 1/2, use a 110 ohm resistor between GND and the SENDER terminals. + +You can check the sender units with an ohm meter. If full, they should be about 35 ohms between the sender wire and ground on the sender unit. If that is OK, do the same test, up at the gauge. That'll let you test the wiring in between. Repeat for the other side, too. + +You don't have to match brands but match the standard used by the gauge and the sender. Most are 240-33 ohms (empty-full). This is typically referred to as the ""US Standard"". + +Click to expand..." +"Put the boat in the water today (opening day of boating season here in Seattle.) Should note that it had about 1/2 a tank (5 gallons) of 2 year old gas so I topped it off with 5 gallons of new gas and fuel system cleaner. After a few priming lever pumps, hit the starter and it basically fired right up. warmed up and moved away from dock, but as soon as I hit it to get on plane I get maybe 2 seconds of full power then it falls on its face. if I idle for 30 seconds, it will repeat the 2 seconds of full power. New primary filter and plugs. Also, removed air silencer and noticed the emergency fuel enrichment lever was in 'on' position. moved it to the 'normal' position and it will barely run. Restricted fuel? Ideas on where to look?","Update. Did the fuel bulb pump routine and it came up to full power for about 6-7 seconds, then back to no power. After that, the fuel bulb is rock hard and trying to pump it further does nothing.","Update. Did the fuel bulb pump routine and it came up to full power for about 6-7 seconds, then back to no power. After that, the fuel bulb is rock hard and trying to pump it further does nothing.","Under the trim tab usually is another bolt. You can look at diagrams here to see all the bolts, just look up your engine." +"Put the boat in the water today (opening day of boating season here in Seattle.) Should note that it had about 1/2 a tank (5 gallons) of 2 year old gas so I topped it off with 5 gallons of new gas and fuel system cleaner. After a few priming lever pumps, hit the starter and it basically fired right up. warmed up and moved away from dock, but as soon as I hit it to get on plane I get maybe 2 seconds of full power then it falls on its face. if I idle for 30 seconds, it will repeat the 2 seconds of full power. New primary filter and plugs. Also, removed air silencer and noticed the emergency fuel enrichment lever was in 'on' position. moved it to the 'normal' position and it will barely run. Restricted fuel? Ideas on where to look?","if the gas is two years old has the boat set up with no running in 2 years? + +the first thing i would do is get rid of the gas and start fresh....check the plugs to see if they are wet with the new gas when it fails..its probably time for carb rebuilds..","if the gas is two years old has the boat set up with no running in 2 years? + +the first thing i would do is get rid of the gas and start fresh....check the plugs to see if they are wet with the new gas when it fails..its probably time for carb rebuilds..","I would focus on the fuel system. The flow of fuel is basically: + +primer bulb > fuel filter > mechanical fuel pump > vapor separator chamber > through another filter at the bottom of the high pressure fuel pump > pressure regulator > fuel rail > injectors. + +There's lots to check, but the fact that it gets better when you throttle down is a good observation. If it were me, I would check the mechanical fuel pump (look up Dangar Marine on YouTube.. I remember he has a good video summary of how to easily inspect these) and replace the fuel filter (even if it looks clean). If both of those things are working properly, then I would run the engine off of a small auxiliary tank that you know is filled with fresh fuel. Then see how performance is. If no improvement, then I would open up the vapor separator and change the internal filter there (or at least take a look at it to see if it's getting clogged). Also check the needle valve tip for damage. I would also send the injectors in to be cleaned/rebuilt by a shop who does that service (there are many). + +Also, you can try disconnecting the vacuum sensing hose that goes from the pressure regulator to the air intake. On the F115 it might not be easily done, but that is a very easy test to see if your fuel pressure is just bit too low. If you disconnect that line, that increases the fuel pressure slightly.. sometimes enough to get you over the edge of bogging at high speeds. It should be reconnected after the test, but that would at least tell you that you do indeed have a fuel delivery issue." +"Put the boat in the water today (opening day of boating season here in Seattle.) Should note that it had about 1/2 a tank (5 gallons) of 2 year old gas so I topped it off with 5 gallons of new gas and fuel system cleaner. After a few priming lever pumps, hit the starter and it basically fired right up. warmed up and moved away from dock, but as soon as I hit it to get on plane I get maybe 2 seconds of full power then it falls on its face. if I idle for 30 seconds, it will repeat the 2 seconds of full power. New primary filter and plugs. Also, removed air silencer and noticed the emergency fuel enrichment lever was in 'on' position. moved it to the 'normal' position and it will barely run. Restricted fuel? Ideas on where to look?","papyson said: + + + + if the gas is two years old has the boat set up with no running in 2 years? + +the first thing i would do is get rid of the gas and start fresh....check the plugs to see if they are wet with the new gas when it fails..its probably time for carb rebuilds.. + +Click to expand... + + +I realize the old gas that is mixed with the new is probably not 100% but that doesn't really explain the symptoms. Especially that when 'force fed' fuel via the bulb it ran at full power (briefly). Bad gas taken out of the picture, why would that be?","papyson said: + + + + if the gas is two years old has the boat set up with no running in 2 years? + +the first thing i would do is get rid of the gas and start fresh....check the plugs to see if they are wet with the new gas when it fails..its probably time for carb rebuilds.. + +Click to expand... + + +I realize the old gas that is mixed with the new is probably not 100% but that doesn't really explain the symptoms. Especially that when 'force fed' fuel via the bulb it ran at full power (briefly). Bad gas taken out of the picture, why would that be?",Most likely your trim motor is shorted to ground internally. You would have to change the motor.. why do you want to put the lights etc on a seperates battery? +"Put the boat in the water today (opening day of boating season here in Seattle.) Should note that it had about 1/2 a tank (5 gallons) of 2 year old gas so I topped it off with 5 gallons of new gas and fuel system cleaner. After a few priming lever pumps, hit the starter and it basically fired right up. warmed up and moved away from dock, but as soon as I hit it to get on plane I get maybe 2 seconds of full power then it falls on its face. if I idle for 30 seconds, it will repeat the 2 seconds of full power. New primary filter and plugs. Also, removed air silencer and noticed the emergency fuel enrichment lever was in 'on' position. moved it to the 'normal' position and it will barely run. Restricted fuel? Ideas on where to look?","If the boat has been sitting for two years without the carburettors being drained completely first they are almost certainly in need of a clean out. + +Stuart","If the boat has been sitting for two years without the carburettors being drained completely first they are almost certainly in need of a clean out. + +Stuart","Thank y'all both. Here's where I am now. + +I started with removing the head, and of course, a few of the 14 bolts were rusted and stuck. I'll have to learn next any tips on how to drill them out before going forward. One is at the bottom and semi-blocked by part of the lower cowling." +"Put the boat in the water today (opening day of boating season here in Seattle.) Should note that it had about 1/2 a tank (5 gallons) of 2 year old gas so I topped it off with 5 gallons of new gas and fuel system cleaner. After a few priming lever pumps, hit the starter and it basically fired right up. warmed up and moved away from dock, but as soon as I hit it to get on plane I get maybe 2 seconds of full power then it falls on its face. if I idle for 30 seconds, it will repeat the 2 seconds of full power. New primary filter and plugs. Also, removed air silencer and noticed the emergency fuel enrichment lever was in 'on' position. moved it to the 'normal' position and it will barely run. Restricted fuel? Ideas on where to look?","DangarStu said: + + + + If the boat has been sitting for two years without the carburettors being drained completely first they are almost certainly in need of a clean out. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +Agreed. What would I likely find in the carbs? Water? Contamination? If that was present, would the symptoms be as described or would it just run rough and/or not start? The engine starts with no difficulty at all, only problem is when I try to draw HP out of it (use more than a trickle of fuel)","DangarStu said: + + + + If the boat has been sitting for two years without the carburettors being drained completely first they are almost certainly in need of a clean out. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +Agreed. What would I likely find in the carbs? Water? Contamination? If that was present, would the symptoms be as described or would it just run rough and/or not start? The engine starts with no difficulty at all, only problem is when I try to draw HP out of it (use more than a trickle of fuel)","Going to fix it right. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Darn good idea,.... + +Be aware, P/T wood has chemicals that eats away aluminum,....." +"Put the boat in the water today (opening day of boating season here in Seattle.) Should note that it had about 1/2 a tank (5 gallons) of 2 year old gas so I topped it off with 5 gallons of new gas and fuel system cleaner. After a few priming lever pumps, hit the starter and it basically fired right up. warmed up and moved away from dock, but as soon as I hit it to get on plane I get maybe 2 seconds of full power then it falls on its face. if I idle for 30 seconds, it will repeat the 2 seconds of full power. New primary filter and plugs. Also, removed air silencer and noticed the emergency fuel enrichment lever was in 'on' position. moved it to the 'normal' position and it will barely run. Restricted fuel? Ideas on where to look?","Often what you will find inside looks to me to be a cross between sand a salt. It is, I presume, a combination of aluminium corrosion and residue left by the evaporated fuel. Carburettors generally have a couple of jets: a main jet and an idle jet. It is quite possible that your main jet is blocked so it will idle but when the throttle is open the main jet can't deliver the required fuel so it goes lean and stalls. + +Regards, +Stuart","Often what you will find inside looks to me to be a cross between sand a salt. It is, I presume, a combination of aluminium corrosion and residue left by the evaporated fuel. Carburettors generally have a couple of jets: a main jet and an idle jet. It is quite possible that your main jet is blocked so it will idle but when the throttle is open the main jet can't deliver the required fuel so it goes lean and stalls. + +Regards, +Stuart",Never mind all. Got it figured out +"Put the boat in the water today (opening day of boating season here in Seattle.) Should note that it had about 1/2 a tank (5 gallons) of 2 year old gas so I topped it off with 5 gallons of new gas and fuel system cleaner. After a few priming lever pumps, hit the starter and it basically fired right up. warmed up and moved away from dock, but as soon as I hit it to get on plane I get maybe 2 seconds of full power then it falls on its face. if I idle for 30 seconds, it will repeat the 2 seconds of full power. New primary filter and plugs. Also, removed air silencer and noticed the emergency fuel enrichment lever was in 'on' position. moved it to the 'normal' position and it will barely run. Restricted fuel? Ideas on where to look?",If that was the case (main jets clogged) would idling for 30 seconds and/or pumping the bulb result in temporary full power?,If that was the case (main jets clogged) would idling for 30 seconds and/or pumping the bulb result in temporary full power?,"OK. Lets say there is stage 0 (OFF), Stage 1 (Stern Light (light pole), and Stage 2 (Bow light(red/green) and stern light). + +I can see uses of the stern light for fishing at night when anchored. That does not require the bow light, just the stern light/light pole. That use does not require gauges, as the motor is off. So gauge lights would not be necessary, would they? + +Stage 2 needs the bow light, stern light and gauges, as this is intended for travelling at night. + + +Am I missing or misunderstanding something you said, in your relatively short answer?" +"Put the boat in the water today (opening day of boating season here in Seattle.) Should note that it had about 1/2 a tank (5 gallons) of 2 year old gas so I topped it off with 5 gallons of new gas and fuel system cleaner. After a few priming lever pumps, hit the starter and it basically fired right up. warmed up and moved away from dock, but as soon as I hit it to get on plane I get maybe 2 seconds of full power then it falls on its face. if I idle for 30 seconds, it will repeat the 2 seconds of full power. New primary filter and plugs. Also, removed air silencer and noticed the emergency fuel enrichment lever was in 'on' position. moved it to the 'normal' position and it will barely run. Restricted fuel? Ideas on where to look?","So getting full power when pumping the bulb normally points to either a restriction in the fuel line (closed tank breather etc) or a failing fuel pump. At the same time I would expect the bulb to be deflated at the time of the stall though, not hard. + +Stuart","So getting full power when pumping the bulb normally points to either a restriction in the fuel line (closed tank breather etc) or a failing fuel pump. At the same time I would expect the bulb to be deflated at the time of the stall though, not hard. + +Stuart","A ground has to go from the block, to the remote tank sensor, across the sensor and to the CDI. Via a problematic connector or two. + +A ground has to go from the block, to the main oil tank sensor, across the sensor and to the CDI. + +A lack of either ground will inhibit the automatic transfer system." +"Put the boat in the water today (opening day of boating season here in Seattle.) Should note that it had about 1/2 a tank (5 gallons) of 2 year old gas so I topped it off with 5 gallons of new gas and fuel system cleaner. After a few priming lever pumps, hit the starter and it basically fired right up. warmed up and moved away from dock, but as soon as I hit it to get on plane I get maybe 2 seconds of full power then it falls on its face. if I idle for 30 seconds, it will repeat the 2 seconds of full power. New primary filter and plugs. Also, removed air silencer and noticed the emergency fuel enrichment lever was in 'on' position. moved it to the 'normal' position and it will barely run. Restricted fuel? Ideas on where to look?","Bulb was extremely hard. I had to let it sit on the bottom of the compartment and lean on it with a lot of force to get it to do anything. When I was prepping it for initial start, the bulb acted much more normal in that I could just squeeze it and feel the fuel moving through. one note - I didnt change the secondary (on the engine) fuel filter. Is this advisable or does the primary normally keep gross contaminates out of the secondary?","Bulb was extremely hard. I had to let it sit on the bottom of the compartment and lean on it with a lot of force to get it to do anything. When I was prepping it for initial start, the bulb acted much more normal in that I could just squeeze it and feel the fuel moving through. one note - I didnt change the secondary (on the engine) fuel filter. Is this advisable or does the primary normally keep gross contaminates out of the secondary?","I did a little more testing this morning and here are my findings: + + +Rectifier(Bench test): + +-From input post A (one of the input terminals) to rectifier output: 6.78 M ohm + Reverse leads of meter: .671 M ohm +-From input post B (the other input terminal) to rectifier output: 3.226 M ohm + Reverse leads of meter: .374 M ohm +-Between input post A & B: 4.16 M ohm + +I originally stated, in my first post, that I was not getting continuity from the stator output wire back to my chassis, but when bench testing I was getting some. Here are my findings: + +Stator (Bench test): + +-Yellow output 1 to stator mounting screw hole: .521 M ohm +-Yellow output 2 to stator mounting screw hole: .511 M ohm +-Between the two yellow outputs: .3 ohm + +One of the problems I am have is my two reference books have conflicting information. I am not sure what to go by. I have included a few pictures of the relevant pages. The Mercury service manual does not even list the right stator for my year. +The rectifier seems bad. It should not have continuity in both directions (through the diodes). I checked for grounding in the rest of the wiring and found none. I am still questioning if the stator is good. I will be contacting CDI to see if the stator 174-4793 has the same bolt pattern. I am contemplating replacing both if I cannot determine if the stator is bad or not. +Thank you both for the input; I am at ease about the rectifier I just need to figure out the stator now. +Thank you, +chonka" +"I have a 2005 F225 that up until now, with 700 hours has been fantastic. It is a dual setup on a Grady White Chase 273. When I turn the key the alarms go on and I believe I am getting juice to the motor since I can hear an audible click. Sounds like the solenoid or relay is either defective or not engaging. I thought I read where this is a common problem. Any ideas? If so is it something a diyer could do. Thanks. Henry","Does the power to the gauges etc go off when you turn the key to try and start the engine i.e. power comes on when the key is turned one click, and then goes off as you try to turn the starter? If so, it is probably a bad battery or bad cable. Bad cables are a very common cause of this symptom.","Does the power to the gauges etc go off when you turn the key to try and start the engine i.e. power comes on when the key is turned one click, and then goes off as you try to turn the starter? If so, it is probably a bad battery or bad cable. Bad cables are a very common cause of this symptom.","Fishhawaii said: + + + + Hawaii +Thanks. + +Click to expand... + + +Just a little too far for me to travel to....." +"I have a 2005 F225 that up until now, with 700 hours has been fantastic. It is a dual setup on a Grady White Chase 273. When I turn the key the alarms go on and I believe I am getting juice to the motor since I can hear an audible click. Sounds like the solenoid or relay is either defective or not engaging. I thought I read where this is a common problem. Any ideas? If so is it something a diyer could do. Thanks. Henry",the click you hear is the starter solenoid picking...when you are trying to start it what reading do you get on the positive post on the starter?..compare this reading to the battery positive post....a fully charged battery will read 12.7 volts before you try to start the engine...the reading on the starter post should be 10.5 or better when trying to start..,the click you hear is the starter solenoid picking...when you are trying to start it what reading do you get on the positive post on the starter?..compare this reading to the battery positive post....a fully charged battery will read 12.7 volts before you try to start the engine...the reading on the starter post should be 10.5 or better when trying to start..,"daninski said: + + + + Have you done any diagnosis like check the plugs for spark or check to see if you spark plugs are wet or dry when this happens? + +Click to expand... + +New plugs, proper gap, and they are dry when I check them. Have to get a timing light to check for spark. Engine starts pretty easy. Normal, turn it over a couple times, pull the choke, and it starts. cuts out with the choke in or out. This is my first outboard, but have a good general knowledge of motors. Any help is appreciated." +where do you land the 2 power leads on the trim relay 2004 40hp,"I'm not sure if your relay is the same, but in this video I made of reinstalling the powerhead in my 50hp I go through connecting all the leads to the relay. I hope it helps you with your outboard. https://youtu.be/VYB4unYt8xQ + +Stuart","I'm not sure if your relay is the same, but in this video I made of reinstalling the powerhead in my 50hp I go through connecting all the leads to the relay. I hope it helps you with your outboard. https://youtu.be/VYB4unYt8xQ + +Stuart","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Be sure and use marine grade tinned cable. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, the local Marine Mart store carries that." +"Bought a 2014 f150 yamaha and I am going to use it for shrimp trawling.I want to select a propeller with the greatest diameter and a pitch that will allow me to achieve red line ie) until the rev retarder kicks in. How much prop tip clearance is maximum? + + Thanx for anyones expertise",You can fit a Mercury 16X11 or 13 aluminum in there with no problem. They have a big blade so check your WOT to be sure you get 6000 rpm. You will need to use their hub kit made for Yamaha applications.,You can fit a Mercury 16X11 or 13 aluminum in there with no problem. They have a big blade so check your WOT to be sure you get 6000 rpm. You will need to use their hub kit made for Yamaha applications.,"Should be on the exhaust cover. Remove plug screw and install the nipple! + +Once stripped or crossed threads, retab and get a correct threaded nipple!" +"last year i purchased a 2009 Echelon pontoon that came with a 115 yamaha 4 stroke outboard. Over the weekend the tim just stopped working while going across water. made it back to the dock and started inspecting. First of all i'm confused about the actual engine. the stamp/stick shows f90tlr however the engine cover itself has 115. Is it possible that someone swapped the covers and i actually only have a 90hp engine instead of 115 or is this normal of this engine to have the 115 sticker ? + +Now to the bigger issue. when i try to use the trim at the helm or trim button on the engine itself, all i get is a clicking sound. possible bad relay i guess ? If so can someone let me know what relay i need to purchase / replace ? I've searched but can't the exact part number. mostly because i'm confused on the engine. F90TLR is what is on the sticker on the engine. I will add that i unscrewed the ""manual lift"" screw so i could lift the unit up and no fluid came out. i then tightened it back down to lock my trim in place for the day. is that normal to have no fluid come out ? i can add pictures if needed. thanks for any help. + +ray","I should also add that the trim isn't working at all. When I press the trim button up or down, I only hear a clicking sound.","I should also add that the trim isn't working at all. When I press the trim button up or down, I only hear a clicking sound.","mechanicman said: + + + + I'm not sure of the exact setting. But did you run it before you took it apart? Did it run well? + +Maybe someone here may have the preset. But if not. + +Set them all at 1 turn out. Then if you can run it under load . Just above idle in gear. You can set the mixture. Start with one carb. Try 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time. Listen to the motor. You want to get the highest rpm possible. If it's too rich it will bog. If it's too lean it will bog. Once you set the first carb. Move to the next one. When you think they are set properly. You may have to adjust the idle. +Make sure you have someone drive the boat or tie it off at the dock. Or if you have a big enough container that will hold the water in gear without splashing out +If for some.e reason it will not start cold. Set mixture to 1 1/4- 1 1/2. Then work from there + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. The carbs were so dirty I didn't even try to start it before a good clean up. + +I'll try that.. + +F" +"last year i purchased a 2009 Echelon pontoon that came with a 115 yamaha 4 stroke outboard. Over the weekend the tim just stopped working while going across water. made it back to the dock and started inspecting. First of all i'm confused about the actual engine. the stamp/stick shows f90tlr however the engine cover itself has 115. Is it possible that someone swapped the covers and i actually only have a 90hp engine instead of 115 or is this normal of this engine to have the 115 sticker ? + +Now to the bigger issue. when i try to use the trim at the helm or trim button on the engine itself, all i get is a clicking sound. possible bad relay i guess ? If so can someone let me know what relay i need to purchase / replace ? I've searched but can't the exact part number. mostly because i'm confused on the engine. F90TLR is what is on the sticker on the engine. I will add that i unscrewed the ""manual lift"" screw so i could lift the unit up and no fluid came out. i then tightened it back down to lock my trim in place for the day. is that normal to have no fluid come out ? i can add pictures if needed. thanks for any help. + +ray","Here are some pictures of the motor. Also a video of my issue. + +http://imgur.com/9ifb14K,wMg35tv,oFgSpzo,0PsET4k +http://imgur.com/9ifb14K,wMg35tv,oFgSpzo,0PsET4k#1 +http://imgur.com/9ifb14K,wMg35tv,oFgSpzo,0PsET4k#2 +http://imgur.com/9ifb14K,wMg35tv,oFgSpzo,0PsET4k#3 + +https://youtu.be/K4odiL8pdq4","Here are some pictures of the motor. Also a video of my issue. + +http://imgur.com/9ifb14K,wMg35tv,oFgSpzo,0PsET4k +http://imgur.com/9ifb14K,wMg35tv,oFgSpzo,0PsET4k#1 +http://imgur.com/9ifb14K,wMg35tv,oFgSpzo,0PsET4k#2 +http://imgur.com/9ifb14K,wMg35tv,oFgSpzo,0PsET4k#3 + +https://youtu.be/K4odiL8pdq4","View attachment 1508 + +Pal, + +Do you have your batteries on charge when not in use? I have these dual circuit chargers at home and use them constantly when equipment is not in use. One in garage for the Harley and an extra battery, one in shed for tractor / yard equipment and am getting one for the boat, to perminently install, to charge both batteries seperately at same time while home on the trailer. + +Have had one for bike for a while now. Harley battery is going on 5 years old now and still strong as an ox. 1st battery only lasted 1 1/2 years on a Battery Tender, which went kaput and toasted the battery. They aren't cheap, around 170 ginkos, but neither are batteries." +"last year i purchased a 2009 Echelon pontoon that came with a 115 yamaha 4 stroke outboard. Over the weekend the tim just stopped working while going across water. made it back to the dock and started inspecting. First of all i'm confused about the actual engine. the stamp/stick shows f90tlr however the engine cover itself has 115. Is it possible that someone swapped the covers and i actually only have a 90hp engine instead of 115 or is this normal of this engine to have the 115 sticker ? + +Now to the bigger issue. when i try to use the trim at the helm or trim button on the engine itself, all i get is a clicking sound. possible bad relay i guess ? If so can someone let me know what relay i need to purchase / replace ? I've searched but can't the exact part number. mostly because i'm confused on the engine. F90TLR is what is on the sticker on the engine. I will add that i unscrewed the ""manual lift"" screw so i could lift the unit up and no fluid came out. i then tightened it back down to lock my trim in place for the day. is that normal to have no fluid come out ? i can add pictures if needed. thanks for any help. + +ray",One of teh most likely causes would be a bad cable end in the cabling to the relays and/or the tilt motor. Another possibility would be water in the tilt motor. If you unplug the tilt motor at the relay you can try applying power there or use a meter to check that it is making a circuit.,One of teh most likely causes would be a bad cable end in the cabling to the relays and/or the tilt motor. Another possibility would be water in the tilt motor. If you unplug the tilt motor at the relay you can try applying power there or use a meter to check that it is making a circuit.,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + When you say ALL oil inject systems are gone are you also including the sensors?...its the sensors that trip the alarm. If the alarm is oil system related amd not temp related then its grounding somewhere within whatever remains of the sensors circuitry + +Click to expand... + + + +as far as I can tell, both tanks, and all the wiring harness are missing. only thing i can find is a harness plug with 7 wires, green, green/red, blue, black, brown, yellow/red, and yellow." +"last year i purchased a 2009 Echelon pontoon that came with a 115 yamaha 4 stroke outboard. Over the weekend the tim just stopped working while going across water. made it back to the dock and started inspecting. First of all i'm confused about the actual engine. the stamp/stick shows f90tlr however the engine cover itself has 115. Is it possible that someone swapped the covers and i actually only have a 90hp engine instead of 115 or is this normal of this engine to have the 115 sticker ? + +Now to the bigger issue. when i try to use the trim at the helm or trim button on the engine itself, all i get is a clicking sound. possible bad relay i guess ? If so can someone let me know what relay i need to purchase / replace ? I've searched but can't the exact part number. mostly because i'm confused on the engine. F90TLR is what is on the sticker on the engine. I will add that i unscrewed the ""manual lift"" screw so i could lift the unit up and no fluid came out. i then tightened it back down to lock my trim in place for the day. is that normal to have no fluid come out ? i can add pictures if needed. thanks for any help. + +ray","aliboy said: + + + + One of teh most likely causes would be a bad cable end in the cabling to the relays and/or the tilt motor. Another possibility would be water in the tilt motor. If you unplug the tilt motor at the relay you can try applying power there or use a meter to check that it is making a circuit. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you, i'll give this a shot. Can you let me know which relay goes to the motor from this image ? + +http://cdn.boats.net/diagram/yamaha/OB/F90TLR_TXR_TJR_0410/IMAGES/ELECTRICAL_2.png","aliboy said: + + + + One of teh most likely causes would be a bad cable end in the cabling to the relays and/or the tilt motor. Another possibility would be water in the tilt motor. If you unplug the tilt motor at the relay you can try applying power there or use a meter to check that it is making a circuit. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you, i'll give this a shot. Can you let me know which relay goes to the motor from this image ? + +http://cdn.boats.net/diagram/yamaha/OB/F90TLR_TXR_TJR_0410/IMAGES/ELECTRICAL_2.png","Hopefully, that was the problem. Let us know if it solved it." +"last year i purchased a 2009 Echelon pontoon that came with a 115 yamaha 4 stroke outboard. Over the weekend the tim just stopped working while going across water. made it back to the dock and started inspecting. First of all i'm confused about the actual engine. the stamp/stick shows f90tlr however the engine cover itself has 115. Is it possible that someone swapped the covers and i actually only have a 90hp engine instead of 115 or is this normal of this engine to have the 115 sticker ? + +Now to the bigger issue. when i try to use the trim at the helm or trim button on the engine itself, all i get is a clicking sound. possible bad relay i guess ? If so can someone let me know what relay i need to purchase / replace ? I've searched but can't the exact part number. mostly because i'm confused on the engine. F90TLR is what is on the sticker on the engine. I will add that i unscrewed the ""manual lift"" screw so i could lift the unit up and no fluid came out. i then tightened it back down to lock my trim in place for the day. is that normal to have no fluid come out ? i can add pictures if needed. thanks for any help. + +ray",Sorry I can't tell from that diagram. Just operate the trim switch and see which relay is clicking. That will be the one and you should be able to quite easily trace the wires down towards the trim motor.,Sorry I can't tell from that diagram. Just operate the trim switch and see which relay is clicking. That will be the one and you should be able to quite easily trace the wires down towards the trim motor.,"I've taken another look at the housing since my last response and wonder how to replace the very small (ie 1/16"") o-ring that goes around the smallest shaft protruding from the housing. I'm wondering if I'd be able to get by with adding another small o-ring on the outside and hoping that the pressure of the fuel line connector will be enough to cause it to seal. Otherwise, it appears that the only way to replace that seal is to pull the lead/aluminum plug that blocks access to it from the other side. Thoughts and ideas are appreciated. +WW" +"Hello All, + +I wasnt sure how to describe this in the title. + +Have a late ninties 115 yamaha two stroke. + +We have removed the oil injection and installed a tiller on this motor. + +Ran beautiful until the last run of last year. + +Again now on first run of this year. + +Starts up, idles. + +If you rev it up in neutral it stutters just like it is hitting a rev limited. nah nah nah nah you know the sound. + +Will do the same once in gear and you try to accelerate. The more throttle the more it shakes. Not possible to plane out. + +Mechanic came to look. Did spark test, changed plugs. He thinks it might be the ignition pack ( located between cylinder heads at back of motor) +Has any one ever heard of this problem before? Before I go buy this part. + +Thank you for all help","So far we have tried. + +New plugs. Spark test. + +Check wiring harness for shorts. + +Disconnect tach. + +Install used working ignition pack fro working motor. No difference. + +Reinstalled oil injection tank and sensor to see if that was doing it. No change. + +Any thoughts are appreciated. Sounds like it is stuck in limp mode or something.","So far we have tried. + +New plugs. Spark test. + +Check wiring harness for shorts. + +Disconnect tach. + +Install used working ignition pack fro working motor. No difference. + +Reinstalled oil injection tank and sensor to see if that was doing it. No change. + +Any thoughts are appreciated. Sounds like it is stuck in limp mode or something.",The cap covers the diagnostic port. To which an interface cable is attached so that engine data can be seen on a PC running Yamaha software.. The cap protects the pins within the port when the port is not being used. The cap includes a jumper wire to connect two of the pins together when the port is not being used. +"Hello All, + +I wasnt sure how to describe this in the title. + +Have a late ninties 115 yamaha two stroke. + +We have removed the oil injection and installed a tiller on this motor. + +Ran beautiful until the last run of last year. + +Again now on first run of this year. + +Starts up, idles. + +If you rev it up in neutral it stutters just like it is hitting a rev limited. nah nah nah nah you know the sound. + +Will do the same once in gear and you try to accelerate. The more throttle the more it shakes. Not possible to plane out. + +Mechanic came to look. Did spark test, changed plugs. He thinks it might be the ignition pack ( located between cylinder heads at back of motor) +Has any one ever heard of this problem before? Before I go buy this part. + +Thank you for all help","big_builder said: + + + + ... + +Any thoughts are appreciated. Sounds like it is stuck in limp mode or something. + +Click to expand... + +Do you happen to live in an area where Stink Bugs exist? End of season is when they start finding places to hide out for the winter. They hosed me up last year badly. + +Your symptoms are very similar to what I went through. After paying for and waiting for a new neutral,safety switch and new shift cables, and again experiencing the exact same symptoms as before all that work, we found the problem to be Stink Bugs. No joke. My story even made a SeaTow advertisement. + +https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...49_FnRDMwyslYc8Yw&sig2=R1QesJjthJ9vkOeWjTMNew + +Page 26. + +So, if it isn't stink bugs, check your neutral switch. Its adjustable to a point. Mine was beyond that point. + + +Hopefully, this helps.","big_builder said: + + + + ... + +Any thoughts are appreciated. Sounds like it is stuck in limp mode or something. + +Click to expand... + +Do you happen to live in an area where Stink Bugs exist? End of season is when they start finding places to hide out for the winter. They hosed me up last year badly. + +Your symptoms are very similar to what I went through. After paying for and waiting for a new neutral,safety switch and new shift cables, and again experiencing the exact same symptoms as before all that work, we found the problem to be Stink Bugs. No joke. My story even made a SeaTow advertisement. + +https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...49_FnRDMwyslYc8Yw&sig2=R1QesJjthJ9vkOeWjTMNew + +Page 26. + +So, if it isn't stink bugs, check your neutral switch. Its adjustable to a point. Mine was beyond that point. + + +Hopefully, this helps.",Have you replaced or cleaned O2 sensor? +"Hello All, + +I wasnt sure how to describe this in the title. + +Have a late ninties 115 yamaha two stroke. + +We have removed the oil injection and installed a tiller on this motor. + +Ran beautiful until the last run of last year. + +Again now on first run of this year. + +Starts up, idles. + +If you rev it up in neutral it stutters just like it is hitting a rev limited. nah nah nah nah you know the sound. + +Will do the same once in gear and you try to accelerate. The more throttle the more it shakes. Not possible to plane out. + +Mechanic came to look. Did spark test, changed plugs. He thinks it might be the ignition pack ( located between cylinder heads at back of motor) +Has any one ever heard of this problem before? Before I go buy this part. + +Thank you for all help",what did the spark test that the tech did look like..did he say good or bad spark?..did he check compression?....,what did the spark test that the tech did look like..did he say good or bad spark?..did he check compression?....,Think it has full travel buts its not enough. maybe its not the right controller for the engine. mite just have to file the cam down.. or make a new one up +"I made the bad. Before I got the service manual, I pulled the carbs off the motor and dissembled them to get a head start on cleaning and rebuild. This included removing the pilot screws. I'm thinking that the manual will have instructions as to the initial settings for the screws along with procedure to adjust after the motor is running and warmed up. But the only instruction in the manual is to count the number on turns from seating (which I didn't do) and return them to those positions on reassembly. There is nothing in the manual about this adjustment, and I haven't been able to find anything on-line. I have two questions: + +First, does anybody have any idea of where I should start when I reassemble the carbs? And is the finer adjustment similar to other motors where you just richen the mixture until you get the highest RPM and them maybe lean out a little bit? + +Second, does anyone have any idea of what Yamaha does upon manufacturing. There must be some adjustment, or they would just publish the number turns to set the screws. + +Thanks in advance for your impute.","You are right in that they are best set by finding the highest idle and backing off a bit. You may also need to put a set of vacuum gauges onto the intake manifold to balance them afterwards. I think mine were set about 3 half turns out from seated from memory, possibly one or two more, but that will get you in the right ball park. + +Stuart","You are right in that they are best set by finding the highest idle and backing off a bit. You may also need to put a set of vacuum gauges onto the intake manifold to balance them afterwards. I think mine were set about 3 half turns out from seated from memory, possibly one or two more, but that will get you in the right ball park. + +Stuart",Thank you for your reply ClassicAQ. There are two washers. That's why I don't understand why it is so much play for the lever! +"I made the bad. Before I got the service manual, I pulled the carbs off the motor and dissembled them to get a head start on cleaning and rebuild. This included removing the pilot screws. I'm thinking that the manual will have instructions as to the initial settings for the screws along with procedure to adjust after the motor is running and warmed up. But the only instruction in the manual is to count the number on turns from seating (which I didn't do) and return them to those positions on reassembly. There is nothing in the manual about this adjustment, and I haven't been able to find anything on-line. I have two questions: + +First, does anybody have any idea of where I should start when I reassemble the carbs? And is the finer adjustment similar to other motors where you just richen the mixture until you get the highest RPM and them maybe lean out a little bit? + +Second, does anyone have any idea of what Yamaha does upon manufacturing. There must be some adjustment, or they would just publish the number turns to set the screws. + +Thanks in advance for your impute.","DangarStu said: + + + + You are right in that they are best set by finding the highest idle and backing off a bit. You may also need to put a set of vacuum gauges onto the intake manifold to balance them afterwards. I think mine were set about 3 half turns out from seated from memory, possibly one or two more, but that will get you in the right ball park. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Stuart, I went over to your youtube channel, took a look and subscribed. + +Greg","DangarStu said: + + + + You are right in that they are best set by finding the highest idle and backing off a bit. You may also need to put a set of vacuum gauges onto the intake manifold to balance them afterwards. I think mine were set about 3 half turns out from seated from memory, possibly one or two more, but that will get you in the right ball park. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks Stuart, I went over to your youtube channel, took a look and subscribed. + +Greg",Thank you so much +"I made the bad. Before I got the service manual, I pulled the carbs off the motor and dissembled them to get a head start on cleaning and rebuild. This included removing the pilot screws. I'm thinking that the manual will have instructions as to the initial settings for the screws along with procedure to adjust after the motor is running and warmed up. But the only instruction in the manual is to count the number on turns from seating (which I didn't do) and return them to those positions on reassembly. There is nothing in the manual about this adjustment, and I haven't been able to find anything on-line. I have two questions: + +First, does anybody have any idea of where I should start when I reassemble the carbs? And is the finer adjustment similar to other motors where you just richen the mixture until you get the highest RPM and them maybe lean out a little bit? + +Second, does anyone have any idea of what Yamaha does upon manufacturing. There must be some adjustment, or they would just publish the number turns to set the screws. + +Thanks in advance for your impute.","Thanks Greg, let me know how you get on with the adjustment. + +Stuart","Thanks Greg, let me know how you get on with the adjustment. + +Stuart","boscoe said: + + + + I don't think so. + +Click to expand... + + +How does one know that the poppet older style is stuck in the closed position? Water pressure goes above say 30lbs?" +"So she starts great, she idles great and she'll cruise at about half throttle or slower. As soon as I go to open her up the motor starts to what I'm calling bucking and or bogging down. She hasn't stalled on me maybe only because I don't let it get to that point. Thinking it may be there vst filter or just the fuel filter. Or both. Any help and advice would be appreciated. I've personally owned the boat for 3 years and have not changed my vst or fuel filter.",Sounds like starvation so I would change the fuel filter and re-test. It is due for a change anyway so best to do it first up.,Sounds like starvation so I would change the fuel filter and re-test. It is due for a change anyway so best to do it first up.,"Just to summarize the outcome of this post, I disconnected each component from the electrical circuit as specified in the repair manual and measured its resistance. The only inconsistency I found was the coil resistance mentioned previously. So I decided I had done everything I could and placed an order for a new coil. After I did that, the engine started great. So the manual was correct, and I shouldn't have questioned it. Thanks also for the help and support provided Chawk and Jim Dixon." +"I just installed a new oil injector pump, oil is not pumping to mix to the carburetor, i see no oil, going through the clear oil tubes, unscrewed small +screw to pump to release air in lines, and still not getting oil, does it matter what line on oil pump goes to each carburetor or am i air bound. +did compression check and was ok, any input would be great! +Thanks Bobby V","no one seems to know what my problem, i have not had any inputs with my promblem +any input would be great, thanks Bobby V","no one seems to know what my problem, i have not had any inputs with my promblem +any input would be great, thanks Bobby V",Thanks Stuart! +"I just installed a new oil injector pump, oil is not pumping to mix to the carburetor, i see no oil, going through the clear oil tubes, unscrewed small +screw to pump to release air in lines, and still not getting oil, does it matter what line on oil pump goes to each carburetor or am i air bound. +did compression check and was ok, any input would be great! +Thanks Bobby V","solved my own problem, the screw on the top of oil pump to relieve any air in the system +was leaking, drained all oil and removed screw, installed another small plastic washer with the same one that came with the new pump and the oil stopped leaking, watch how tight you install the screw, now i see no oil leaking. hope any one with this problem this will help them Bobby v","solved my own problem, the screw on the top of oil pump to relieve any air in the system +was leaking, drained all oil and removed screw, installed another small plastic washer with the same one that came with the new pump and the oil stopped leaking, watch how tight you install the screw, now i see no oil leaking. hope any one with this problem this will help them Bobby v","Hummm, +I used a universal pulley holder with two pins that went down through the flywheel holes (to help hold the flywheel-and was a major pain in ass, when trying to pop the flywheel off the shaft with the flywheel puller). +After a long battle, the flywheel popped off, and underneath, I discovered that I had damaged one of the copper wires on the stator with the flywheel holder (must have went in too far). +Now I'm wondering if that may be the reason the engine won't idle? +Any feedback on that thought?" +"I just installed a new oil injector pump, oil is not pumping to mix to the carburetor, i see no oil, going through the clear oil tubes, unscrewed small +screw to pump to release air in lines, and still not getting oil, does it matter what line on oil pump goes to each carburetor or am i air bound. +did compression check and was ok, any input would be great! +Thanks Bobby V","If you still can't get oil to the carbs, unplug the oil lines at (oil pump side) the one way valves in them and run the engine on premix until oil appears at the end of the tube. Plug it back into the valve and you should see oil at the carbs in a few minutes of running. I always run some premix after playing with the oil lines until I am sure that I have oil flowing to every carb.","If you still can't get oil to the carbs, unplug the oil lines at (oil pump side) the one way valves in them and run the engine on premix until oil appears at the end of the tube. Plug it back into the valve and you should see oil at the carbs in a few minutes of running. I always run some premix after playing with the oil lines until I am sure that I have oil flowing to every carb.",What is the identity of the motor? Any markings on any parts of the motor? +"On last fishing trip motor was running great, I stopped for a few minutes and went to take off again and the motor had no power. Can you give me some idea on where to start looking for the problem, understand that this motor has no power packs which was my first thought. Others have suggested filters. If you could give me some ideas i​t would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in Advance!","There is a filter at the bottom of the fuel pump in the vapor tank. Take out the 3- size 10-m bolts pull tank back just far enough to remove the phillips screws on the top and seperate the 2 sections. You see the pump and float, bottom of pump remove cup, rubber washer, rotate filter take out clean with air pressure re-install in reverse order. Do not remove fuel lines or wires off top of unit you don't need to. it's not hard at all. O-YEA drain tank at screw at bottom of tank and disconnect power at battery also clean tank you'll see. IT'S been a while since i have done one but if you can turn wrenches you can do it.","There is a filter at the bottom of the fuel pump in the vapor tank. Take out the 3- size 10-m bolts pull tank back just far enough to remove the phillips screws on the top and seperate the 2 sections. You see the pump and float, bottom of pump remove cup, rubber washer, rotate filter take out clean with air pressure re-install in reverse order. Do not remove fuel lines or wires off top of unit you don't need to. it's not hard at all. O-YEA drain tank at screw at bottom of tank and disconnect power at battery also clean tank you'll see. IT'S been a while since i have done one but if you can turn wrenches you can do it.","racerone said: + + + + In my opinion the starter should be taken apart for inspection.----Likely that solenoid was NOT the problem.----Inspect the starter , do not rush out and buy a new one. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the reply. What should I be looking for when inspecting the starter? I don't think the solenoid was bad either, but it definitely became fried in the cranking process. Won't even produce one volt to starter side post with ignition." +"Hello everyone im new to this and this is my first post but after hundreds of dollars i have no choice. I have a 2000 yamaha 50hp 4 stroke and it wont start. It wont turn over at all. +i have replaced the starter and silonoid and put a brand new battery in. If i have a charger connected to it and bump the key the starter does engage. Please somone help me",Neutral safety switch in the control box? Start relay?,Neutral safety switch in the control box? Start relay?,This is a modular unit....okay! Final coils rarely fail. I would more suspect this here baby. +"Hello everyone im new to this and this is my first post but after hundreds of dollars i have no choice. I have a 2000 yamaha 50hp 4 stroke and it wont start. It wont turn over at all. +i have replaced the starter and silonoid and put a brand new battery in. If i have a charger connected to it and bump the key the starter does engage. Please somone help me","Sorry to hear about your troubles. I have a very similar outboard so happy to try to help, but in the meantime here is a video I did on diagnosing this type of trouble. Maybe it will help you. Let me know how you get on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1h-blqDm4U + +Stuart","Sorry to hear about your troubles. I have a very similar outboard so happy to try to help, but in the meantime here is a video I did on diagnosing this type of trouble. Maybe it will help you. Let me know how you get on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1h-blqDm4U + +Stuart",Would this motor have the VST filter? I have good pressure at the pumps but motor will not stay running. Seems to not be getting enough fuel. +"Hello everyone im new to this and this is my first post but after hundreds of dollars i have no choice. I have a 2000 yamaha 50hp 4 stroke and it wont start. It wont turn over at all. +i have replaced the starter and silonoid and put a brand new battery in. If i have a charger connected to it and bump the key the starter does engage. Please somone help me",Where is the safety switch and start relay at? The safety switch is in the throttle control? And i will watch video,Where is the safety switch and start relay at? The safety switch is in the throttle control? And i will watch video,3 PSi is the standard in the CFR... +i have a 2003 Yamaha 90hp 2 stroke with a seized lower unit i have a chance to pick up a 2008 90 hp lower unit but its from a Yamaha 4 stroke . just wondering if it will fit my 2 stroke.,Won't fit. You know that by now though.,Won't fit. You know that by now though.,"you may have a high resistance between the battery and the switch....voltage may be present until you start to try to draw current and then the voltage is dropped across the high resistance...with the switch on you say no output to the switch....do you still have voltage at the input to the switch at this time?...if that voltage is there on the input with the switch off and is gone with the switch on then the problem is as described...probably right at the battery terminal..if the voltage is still there at the input with the switch on and missing on the output of the switch then you have a bad switch... + + +note...when measuring voltage....if you have an open then you can find it without trying to draw current...if however you have a high resistance connection you will have to draw current to measure the drop.." +i have a 2003 Yamaha 90hp 2 stroke with a seized lower unit i have a chance to pick up a 2008 90 hp lower unit but its from a Yamaha 4 stroke . just wondering if it will fit my 2 stroke.,"PBRMAN said: + + + + Won't fit. You know that by now though. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks PBRMAN for your answer. would have been so easy if it fit 6 bolts and done .","PBRMAN said: + + + + Won't fit. You know that by now though. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks PBRMAN for your answer. would have been so easy if it fit 6 bolts and done .","If the boat is brand new and s + +If the boat is brand new and still as the glas coat on the bottom (shiny stuff) does that need to be sanded off before the bottom is painted? Thank you." +"Hello All, +I'm hoping someone can give me the part number for a yamaha tiller arm for a 1990 (ish) 9.9 four stroker +Serial number 6G8 1403363 + +Maybe i even have that prefix incorrect? + + +the OB is on ebay without the arm so i'm trying to source one before i but it + +Many thanks + +Ian +London",You probably know this now but that piece is over 600. for all the parts involved.,You probably know this now but that piece is over 600. for all the parts involved.,Yes. Absolutely. +Hi i have a 2009 yam 4 stroke when it starts i get the water coming out but when im motering and i come off the power no water comes out and i dont no why need help please,Start with the water pump and when that is apart look below it all the way to the intakes for obstructions. Check your t-stat and be sure it isn't stuck open.,Start with the water pump and when that is apart look below it all the way to the intakes for obstructions. Check your t-stat and be sure it isn't stuck open.,"I had the same issue. Check the timing with an inductive light, does the spark jump? Number 3 will fire on #2 and visa versa? Turned out to be a rectifier issue." +"In January I hit something under the water going about 30 MPH. I was slowing down and in neutral when I hit is however it still bent my output shaft and brand new stainless steel Solas prop. I was about 1000 feet from the ramp so I idled over to the ramp and put boat back on trailer and left. I got my boat back and now I have a terrible vibration in the motor from idle all the way to 3000rpm, even with out the prop turning. Did I bend a crankshaft or rod?","dmcouch1975 said: + + + + In January I hit something under the water going about 30 MPH. I was slowing down and in neutral when I hit is however it still bent my output shaft and brand new stainless steel Solas prop. I was about 1000 feet from the ramp so I idled over to the ramp and put boat back on trailer and left. I got my boat back and now I have a terrible vibration in the motor from idle all the way to 3000rpm, even with out the prop turning. Did I bend a crankshaft or rod? + +Click to expand... + + +I'm guessing you have some broken gear teerh in your gearcase. Those gearcases aren""t super robust when it comes to impacting an ss prop. If you bent the shaft, you should probably have another look in there.","dmcouch1975 said: + + + + In January I hit something under the water going about 30 MPH. I was slowing down and in neutral when I hit is however it still bent my output shaft and brand new stainless steel Solas prop. I was about 1000 feet from the ramp so I idled over to the ramp and put boat back on trailer and left. I got my boat back and now I have a terrible vibration in the motor from idle all the way to 3000rpm, even with out the prop turning. Did I bend a crankshaft or rod? + +Click to expand... + + +I'm guessing you have some broken gear teerh in your gearcase. Those gearcases aren""t super robust when it comes to impacting an ss prop. If you bent the shaft, you should probably have another look in there.","if you bought it from Lowe's best to ask them who made it and then inquire there. + +a better choice for flotation is closed cell foam, usually formed in place from a two part mixture. + +As a rule, most white 'styrofoam' will absorb water over time.....if you can seal it and not violate the seal, it may work out..." +"I have an older Yamaha 100hp outboard. When going to do the lower unit gear oil, I discovered the previous owner had completely buggered the screwdriver slot on the drain plug. As with everything else on this vessel, I can predict that the plug is ""in there"", and won't come out without a fight, even if the thread were pristine. Suggestions? I believe its brass","There are a few ways you can go here. There might be enough thread to use an screwdriver (the ones you hit with a hammer to both seat them and turn them at the same time). If that doesn't work I would drill a small hole through the centre of it and then use an Easyout to get a grip on it and wind it out. A bit of head on the casing my help get it out too. Don't heat the aluminium too much though. If that all fails you'll need to carefully drill the whole plug out and then use a tap to clean/ repair the thread. + +Good luck! +Stuart","There are a few ways you can go here. There might be enough thread to use an screwdriver (the ones you hit with a hammer to both seat them and turn them at the same time). If that doesn't work I would drill a small hole through the centre of it and then use an Easyout to get a grip on it and wind it out. A bit of head on the casing my help get it out too. Don't heat the aluminium too much though. If that all fails you'll need to carefully drill the whole plug out and then use a tap to clean/ repair the thread. + +Good luck! +Stuart","The cost is 125.00 you will have to pull the air horn and send it in. We should have parts mfg in a couple of weeks. If you want more info call me at the shop monday 8:00 am to further discuss. I can tell you i just got fed up with the hard starting and this fixed the problem right now. This is a cnc machined and laser cut choke that will not fail you unlike the electric choke. I was willing to buy a new carb until i got the price and that cured that idea. I would have to guess that even if you do get it started it like to die when put in gear. However once you do get it warmed up runs great all day. I'am heading out for spring chinnok fishing this morning in portland oregon so keep that in mind when you call. I don't currently have a visa machine yet but if I keep getting e-mail like your I will get one. Thanks for the interest in this new product. + +scott +ALLIED SCREW MACHINE WORKS +BORING,OR" +"I have an older Yamaha 100hp outboard. When going to do the lower unit gear oil, I discovered the previous owner had completely buggered the screwdriver slot on the drain plug. As with everything else on this vessel, I can predict that the plug is ""in there"", and won't come out without a fight, even if the thread were pristine. Suggestions? I believe its brass","DangarStu said: + + + + There are a few ways you can go here. There might be enough thread to use an screwdriver (the ones you hit with a hammer to both seat them and turn them at the same time). If that doesn't work I would drill a small hole through the centre of it and then use an Easyout to get a grip on it and wind it out. A bit of head on the casing my help get it out too. Don't heat the aluminium too much though. If that all fails you'll need to carefully drill the whole plug out and then use a tap to clean/ repair the thread. + +Good luck! +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Of course, the re-tap HAS to be straight and true to enable a flat seating of the washer, I'm sure. You wouldn't happen to know off the top of your head the pitch and thread size of the plug? I'm going to try and recreate the slot with a die grinder and a small endmill first with a small amount of heat first. This boat has been sitting for a long period of time and is proving to be a real challenge. Rebuilt carbs and compression is good. Wiring is a nightmare. I though a quick fluid change would be a breeze. My mistake","DangarStu said: + + + + There are a few ways you can go here. There might be enough thread to use an screwdriver (the ones you hit with a hammer to both seat them and turn them at the same time). If that doesn't work I would drill a small hole through the centre of it and then use an Easyout to get a grip on it and wind it out. A bit of head on the casing my help get it out too. Don't heat the aluminium too much though. If that all fails you'll need to carefully drill the whole plug out and then use a tap to clean/ repair the thread. + +Good luck! +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + +Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Of course, the re-tap HAS to be straight and true to enable a flat seating of the washer, I'm sure. You wouldn't happen to know off the top of your head the pitch and thread size of the plug? I'm going to try and recreate the slot with a die grinder and a small endmill first with a small amount of heat first. This boat has been sitting for a long period of time and is proving to be a real challenge. Rebuilt carbs and compression is good. Wiring is a nightmare. I though a quick fluid change would be a breeze. My mistake",I am new to this page And I am also new to boating. But I noticed when I store my out drive In the up position they will collect rainwater I would assume your lower and is somewhat similar in design to mine and being tilted up would hold water sounds bad may be better to leave it down and in the water as long as water is not turning to ice. On another note do you know of any good resources to find the exact year of manufacture for a mercruiser 4.3 LG All I have is a transom number 0B708163. 2 sgi +"I have an older Yamaha 100hp outboard. When going to do the lower unit gear oil, I discovered the previous owner had completely buggered the screwdriver slot on the drain plug. As with everything else on this vessel, I can predict that the plug is ""in there"", and won't come out without a fight, even if the thread were pristine. Suggestions? I believe its brass","Yes, corrosion is always a nightmare on motors that have been sitting around for a while. I'm not sure of the exact thread size, but this site is great for tracking down part numbers which you can then google to get specifications: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/parts.html + +Stuart","Yes, corrosion is always a nightmare on motors that have been sitting around for a while. I'm not sure of the exact thread size, but this site is great for tracking down part numbers which you can then google to get specifications: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/parts.html + +Stuart",I think the boat does have smart craft gauges. They have the digital read out on the bottom of them.The engines are complete drop-ins. +"I have an older Yamaha 100hp outboard. When going to do the lower unit gear oil, I discovered the previous owner had completely buggered the screwdriver slot on the drain plug. As with everything else on this vessel, I can predict that the plug is ""in there"", and won't come out without a fight, even if the thread were pristine. Suggestions? I believe its brass","This is exactly what I did. The plug is brass, so it basically just made more of a mess of it. I was able to recreate a better. deeper slot, and used a stout screwdriver and vise grips. The end result was a bent screw driver tip. I believe I'm screwed","This is exactly what I did. The plug is brass, so it basically just made more of a mess of it. I was able to recreate a better. deeper slot, and used a stout screwdriver and vise grips. The end result was a bent screw driver tip. I believe I'm screwed","What model year is it? I would say something is restricting air flow. Does it only happen on cold startup, or does it happen even after the engine is warmed up? If it happens on both cold and warm startup, I would guess the cowling is putting a kink in one of the fuel lines." +"I have an older Yamaha 100hp outboard. When going to do the lower unit gear oil, I discovered the previous owner had completely buggered the screwdriver slot on the drain plug. As with everything else on this vessel, I can predict that the plug is ""in there"", and won't come out without a fight, even if the thread were pristine. Suggestions? I believe its brass","guitobache said: + + + + Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Of course, the re-tap HAS to be straight and true to enable a flat seating of the washer, I'm sure. You wouldn't happen to know off the top of your head the pitch and thread size of the plug? I'm going to try and recreate the slot with a die grinder and a small endmill first with a small amount of heat first. This boat has been sitting for a long period of time and is proving to be a real challenge. Rebuilt carbs and compression is good. Wiring is a nightmare. I though a quick fluid change would be a breeze. My mistake + +Click to expand... + +I was advised not to drill the plug out, because the magnet would come off on the backside. Do brass plugs have magnets on them?","guitobache said: + + + + Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Of course, the re-tap HAS to be straight and true to enable a flat seating of the washer, I'm sure. You wouldn't happen to know off the top of your head the pitch and thread size of the plug? I'm going to try and recreate the slot with a die grinder and a small endmill first with a small amount of heat first. This boat has been sitting for a long period of time and is proving to be a real challenge. Rebuilt carbs and compression is good. Wiring is a nightmare. I though a quick fluid change would be a breeze. My mistake + +Click to expand... + +I was advised not to drill the plug out, because the magnet would come off on the backside. Do brass plugs have magnets on them?",Thanks for that. The three wires and connectors are right but the arm may still be a bit longer. Trying to load a photo of mine but failing. Clicked on photo emblem above. Found photo and added but won’t seem to upload to post. +"I have an older Yamaha 100hp outboard. When going to do the lower unit gear oil, I discovered the previous owner had completely buggered the screwdriver slot on the drain plug. As with everything else on this vessel, I can predict that the plug is ""in there"", and won't come out without a fight, even if the thread were pristine. Suggestions? I believe its brass","I'm not 100% sure if the brass plugs have magnets, but if it really easy so stuck they you bent a screwdriver trying to remove it them you might not have much choice other than to drill it out. Did you apply some head around the plug while you were trying to remove it? If you do end up needing to drill it out it will probably be best to remove the gears from the casing to allow you to flush any metal fragments out (including the magnet should it bear there and drop inside). This of course makes it an even bigger job. How simple those instructions sound, ""Just remove the lower plug..."" I know how you feel.","I'm not 100% sure if the brass plugs have magnets, but if it really easy so stuck they you bent a screwdriver trying to remove it them you might not have much choice other than to drill it out. Did you apply some head around the plug while you were trying to remove it? If you do end up needing to drill it out it will probably be best to remove the gears from the casing to allow you to flush any metal fragments out (including the magnet should it bear there and drop inside). This of course makes it an even bigger job. How simple those instructions sound, ""Just remove the lower plug..."" I know how you feel.","Were/are you using ethanol-blended gas (what you buy at 99% of gas stations) or 100% real gas available at a few stations and often at marinas? What brand/type of fuel stabilizer do you use? If you say it was ethanol-blended fuel and you add the regular Red Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer (adding even more ethanol) I'd bet your carbs and fuel jets in them have gummed up and need pulled and cleaned. + +Pulled and cleaned, re-pumped up with fuel via the fuel bulb I'd bet the engine will then fire but will run rough like it is over-choked until you burn through that stale ethanol-blended gas. If you smell the gas, and it doesn't smell like gasoline but more like diesel fuel, heating oil, varnish, paint thinner, Kerosine, etc. you have some real old & stale gas on your hands." +"The motor has no more get up and go. I have changed the Racor. The filter on the upper unit looked a little dirty and was twisted - it looked like it had a lot of suction going on. I took the filter out - I opened the fuel pump and turned the motor over a couple of times. Fuel is being pumped. +Performance is a little better today - but she just does not have any power when you excelerate. +Any suggestions? +Thx, +Pattimo",Or maybe the injectors need to be cleaned?,Or maybe the injectors need to be cleaned?,"Bed23 said: + + + + I have a 1984 Johnson 15 horse serian number E5897783 that I just bought. Water seems to be cirulating very well. It has a nice stream comming of of the nipple, but the shaft seems like it is way to hot. A lot warmer then it should be. where the exaust is a little bit of water spits out of that that is very hot. The motor it self is not hot. I have replaced the Oil in the lower unit. The guy I bought it from works at a boat place and said the just replaced the water pump ( I have no idea if thats true). The screen is clear. Is there something wrong with the shaft being that hot, and how should I look to fix it? Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Which shaft, 'n Where is it gettin' Hot,..??" +"Anybody know what is wrong with the engine?after 10 15 min when I gas up the alarm sounds, indicating that the overheated, oil gasoline and water cooling works fine so,I stop the engine for a few minutes and start it again,do not know what is wrong with engine.","Could it be that there is something wrong with the cdi box,or clogged water cooling system,or faulty temperature sensor?We've had the engine a little over two years and had not changed spark plugs yet but oil and filter them we change.","Could it be that there is something wrong with the cdi box,or clogged water cooling system,or faulty temperature sensor?We've had the engine a little over two years and had not changed spark plugs yet but oil and filter them we change.","25Johnny said: + + + + Thanks but, looking for something stiff. It's going from bench seat to bench seat along the side on a rowboat. Think I'm going to use 1-1/4"" ridged plastic conduit. + +Click to expand... + + that should work fine! as long as you use the gray electrical conduit, that is rated for UV exposure!" +"Anybody know what is wrong with the engine?after 10 15 min when I gas up the alarm sounds, indicating that the overheated, oil gasoline and water cooling works fine so,I stop the engine for a few minutes and start it again,do not know what is wrong with engine.","Need to help +I have changed a new thermostat and a new impeller and the change new oil and filter nothing helps...","Need to help +I have changed a new thermostat and a new impeller and the change new oil and filter nothing helps...","I know this thread is old, but I try anyway. I am having the exact same problem om my 1999 40VEO autolube. After running on high throttle for some time, the engine starts loosing power gradually. If I reduce throttle a bit, it kicks back in. Did you ever figure out what was wrong? I have checked the carburators, the stator looks like brand new, and I have changed the coils." +"Anybody know what is wrong with the engine?after 10 15 min when I gas up the alarm sounds, indicating that the overheated, oil gasoline and water cooling works fine so,I stop the engine for a few minutes and start it again,do not know what is wrong with engine.","aada, when you replaced the impeller did you twist it in the proper direction so the bend of the fins matched the bed of what you removed? When you replaced the thermostat, did you put it in same as the one you took out and didn't put the new one in upside down?","aada, when you replaced the impeller did you twist it in the proper direction so the bend of the fins matched the bed of what you removed? When you replaced the thermostat, did you put it in same as the one you took out and didn't put the new one in upside down?",Maybe a bad injector? Definately do a compression test first if the compression is good no need for a leakdown. Is the injector firing you can use a screwdriver to listen to the injectors put the screwdriver on the injector and put your ear on the handle. That cylinder is getting too much fuel leads me to believe its leaking possibly causing the other cylinders to be running too lean. Hopefully there is no damage to the valves or pistons. What color are the plugs on the other engine? +"Anybody know what is wrong with the engine?after 10 15 min when I gas up the alarm sounds, indicating that the overheated, oil gasoline and water cooling works fine so,I stop the engine for a few minutes and start it again,do not know what is wrong with engine.","Hook the engine up to ""ear muffs"" and see if there is plenty of water coming from the pee-hole and the exhaust from the center of the propeller. Maybe take the cowling off the ourboard, pull out the thermostat and then have someone start the engine for a few seconds and see if plenty of water makes it's way all the way up there. IF it does, I think you're engine is probably fine and you may need a new water temperature sensor. Sensors go bad all the time but engines are simple. If the water is flowing fast and not steaming hot it is probably a sensor.","Hook the engine up to ""ear muffs"" and see if there is plenty of water coming from the pee-hole and the exhaust from the center of the propeller. Maybe take the cowling off the ourboard, pull out the thermostat and then have someone start the engine for a few seconds and see if plenty of water makes it's way all the way up there. IF it does, I think you're engine is probably fine and you may need a new water temperature sensor. Sensors go bad all the time but engines are simple. If the water is flowing fast and not steaming hot it is probably a sensor.","UPDATE: + +Alright here's some pics.. +The first pic is what i went 4.. +The last pic were the 2 springs that were free to move around.." +"Anybody know what is wrong with the engine?after 10 15 min when I gas up the alarm sounds, indicating that the overheated, oil gasoline and water cooling works fine so,I stop the engine for a few minutes and start it again,do not know what is wrong with engine.","Thanks for the reply +Now it's not the first time I've changed impeller and thermostat ... it's just a little different with 4 stroke engines a 2 strokes but one is that water cooling is hot but not so hot.I'm doing an experiment with the thermostat and see what happens..","Thanks for the reply +Now it's not the first time I've changed impeller and thermostat ... it's just a little different with 4 stroke engines a 2 strokes but one is that water cooling is hot but not so hot.I'm doing an experiment with the thermostat and see what happens..","Nick Moore McCabe said: + + + + I agree 100%. I've been told to lock the flywheel and try to manually turn the prop to test it. Gonna do that and if it fails, pick up a new prop and hub. My main concern is ruling out major lower unit problems, hoping the shift cable is the culprit. + +Click to expand... + + +You can try that for the high throttle slippage and revs you are experiencing but unless you think you have the strength in your arms and hands that matches the torque and HP of your engine at high throttle I doubt you'll find a spun hub by trying to see if you can twist the prop by hand with the flywheel locked unless it has been spun to oblivion. Locking the flywheel and trying to twist the hub? Can you generate the kind of torque the engine is delivering at that throttle setting? If you can twist that prop by hand with the flywheel locked, you'd never have been able to get on plane." +"Anybody know what is wrong with the engine?after 10 15 min when I gas up the alarm sounds, indicating that the overheated, oil gasoline and water cooling works fine so,I stop the engine for a few minutes and start it again,do not know what is wrong with engine.","I had heard that a small piece of zinc anode should be cause the engine to overheat,it also showed that the small piece of zinc anode is broken off and fell into the cooling system and blocks explain part of the cooling system,that I have removed and tested the engine in half an hour,and there was not no alarm,I hope that it is the cause of the engine overheating..","I had heard that a small piece of zinc anode should be cause the engine to overheat,it also showed that the small piece of zinc anode is broken off and fell into the cooling system and blocks explain part of the cooling system,that I have removed and tested the engine in half an hour,and there was not no alarm,I hope that it is the cause of the engine overheating..","Ok, battery cables are hot to starter/solenoids above where cables come in..." +I bought a pontoon with a rough running 2001 2 stroke 70 hp motor on it for a decent price assuming that it would be a quick fix. It idles alright and runs low speeds alright with a subtle miss. WOT it only runs at 4k rpm. I pulled the spark plugs. The bottom plug was wet. Replaced all 3 plugs. Ran the same and same plug was wet. Spark tested it and it sparked fine. Swapped coil pack with cylinder 2 and cinder 3 was still the problem. Did a compression test and all compression was even. Timing test showed that timing was off by about 1 tooth on all cylinders at idle speed? Is that a possible problem or is it just off because of the miss? Also pulled the fuel pump and squeezed primer bulb. Fuel didn't appear to leak through the membrane. I really don't want to pull the carb and clean it because I have never done a link and sync. I have disassembled plenty of carbs though. But I am nearly at the end of my knowledge on this type of problem. (Also pulled the inline filter and there was no water and a couple of very very small black specks. Any ideas or anyone else with this problem? Am I missing something????,Also it runs smooth with only the top plug in. Runs alright with only the second plug in. (Seems a little less smooth but that could be my imagination) and it won't fire at all with only the 3rd plug in.,Also it runs smooth with only the top plug in. Runs alright with only the second plug in. (Seems a little less smooth but that could be my imagination) and it won't fire at all with only the 3rd plug in.,"I have been vacuuming endlessely, I believe the mosue that was living in the cuddys underfloor is being washed out see I didn't pull the floor up under the hardtop. + +I've taken the boat out 6 times Each time I remove bilge plug and fill the hull w/ water. Attempingto rinse out all this mouse poop. saw dust/leaves ect. Get a good little bit each time, I thinkthe only way to completely clean the below floor is to pull it up. + + +I’ll probablley start pulling cuddie floor up up inside bowarea it’s kindof soft in the middle section." +I bought a pontoon with a rough running 2001 2 stroke 70 hp motor on it for a decent price assuming that it would be a quick fix. It idles alright and runs low speeds alright with a subtle miss. WOT it only runs at 4k rpm. I pulled the spark plugs. The bottom plug was wet. Replaced all 3 plugs. Ran the same and same plug was wet. Spark tested it and it sparked fine. Swapped coil pack with cylinder 2 and cinder 3 was still the problem. Did a compression test and all compression was even. Timing test showed that timing was off by about 1 tooth on all cylinders at idle speed? Is that a possible problem or is it just off because of the miss? Also pulled the fuel pump and squeezed primer bulb. Fuel didn't appear to leak through the membrane. I really don't want to pull the carb and clean it because I have never done a link and sync. I have disassembled plenty of carbs though. But I am nearly at the end of my knowledge on this type of problem. (Also pulled the inline filter and there was no water and a couple of very very small black specks. Any ideas or anyone else with this problem? Am I missing something????,Clean bottom carburetor.--------Inspect fuel pump diaphragm.------------Inspect reeds on # 3 while carburetor is off.,Clean bottom carburetor.--------Inspect fuel pump diaphragm.------------Inspect reeds on # 3 while carburetor is off.,make sure the wires going to the tach are clean and tight....they may have used one or more of those wires for the light switch.... +I bought a pontoon with a rough running 2001 2 stroke 70 hp motor on it for a decent price assuming that it would be a quick fix. It idles alright and runs low speeds alright with a subtle miss. WOT it only runs at 4k rpm. I pulled the spark plugs. The bottom plug was wet. Replaced all 3 plugs. Ran the same and same plug was wet. Spark tested it and it sparked fine. Swapped coil pack with cylinder 2 and cinder 3 was still the problem. Did a compression test and all compression was even. Timing test showed that timing was off by about 1 tooth on all cylinders at idle speed? Is that a possible problem or is it just off because of the miss? Also pulled the fuel pump and squeezed primer bulb. Fuel didn't appear to leak through the membrane. I really don't want to pull the carb and clean it because I have never done a link and sync. I have disassembled plenty of carbs though. But I am nearly at the end of my knowledge on this type of problem. (Also pulled the inline filter and there was no water and a couple of very very small black specks. Any ideas or anyone else with this problem? Am I missing something????,"Fuel pump diaphragm is good. Reed valves are good. But can I take one carb off, clean it then put it back on without having to re synchronize the carbs?","Fuel pump diaphragm is good. Reed valves are good. But can I take one carb off, clean it then put it back on without having to re synchronize the carbs?",it was a disconnected wire at the battery +I bought a pontoon with a rough running 2001 2 stroke 70 hp motor on it for a decent price assuming that it would be a quick fix. It idles alright and runs low speeds alright with a subtle miss. WOT it only runs at 4k rpm. I pulled the spark plugs. The bottom plug was wet. Replaced all 3 plugs. Ran the same and same plug was wet. Spark tested it and it sparked fine. Swapped coil pack with cylinder 2 and cinder 3 was still the problem. Did a compression test and all compression was even. Timing test showed that timing was off by about 1 tooth on all cylinders at idle speed? Is that a possible problem or is it just off because of the miss? Also pulled the fuel pump and squeezed primer bulb. Fuel didn't appear to leak through the membrane. I really don't want to pull the carb and clean it because I have never done a link and sync. I have disassembled plenty of carbs though. But I am nearly at the end of my knowledge on this type of problem. (Also pulled the inline filter and there was no water and a couple of very very small black specks. Any ideas or anyone else with this problem? Am I missing something????,Also I just noticed that while the boat is running I can push in the key to choke it and it continues to run the same. Could that be an issue?,Also I just noticed that while the boat is running I can push in the key to choke it and it continues to run the same. Could that be an issue?,"The other Problem i have is the 3 big Phillips head screws that hold the whole assembly together and mount it to the side of my boat wont come out? I can try to unscrew each of those 3 screws and it will never loosen up and release it from the side of the boat? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... Reach up in-behind the panel, there's nuts on the ends of the screws,.... + +With a Brand New boat, I'd bring it back to the Dealer,...." +"Hello to the group and good day from Eastern Canada. + +Has anyone ever had the tilt/trim switch apart in the Yamaha Model 703 motor control? On mine, the switch operation on the handle is intermittent and obviously not making a proper electrical connection due to age and use. The ""down"" portion seems to work OK but the ""up"" does not work all the time. When underway, I need for the switch to work since I can't trim the motor by using the switch on the motor (obviously). + +It starts working when I spray an aerosol cleaner in around the switch but the fix does not last. I notice that the cost of a new switch is astronomical ( $80.00 or more US) compared to what it is and does. + +Can the old switch be taken apart and contacts cleaned or by doing so, is the switch destroyed? Is there a cross-referenced, less expensive switch that will work? Perhaps there is a link to a fix. + +Thanks in advance for any thoughts.","lander12 said: + + + + Hello to the group and good day from Eastern Canada. + +Has anyone ever had the tilt/trim switch apart in the Yamaha Model 703 motor control? On mine, the switch operation on the handle is intermittent and obviously not making a proper electrical connection due to age and use. The ""down"" portion seems to work OK but the ""up"" does not work all the time. When underway, I need for the switch to work since I can't trim the motor by using the switch on the motor (obviously). + +It starts working when I spray an aerosol cleaner in around the switch but the fix does not last. I notice that the cost of a new switch is astronomical ( $80.00 or more US) compared to what it is and does. + +Can the old switch be taken apart and contacts cleaned or by doing so, is the switch destroyed? Is there a cross-referenced, less expensive switch that will work? Perhaps there is a link to a fix. + +Thanks in advance for any thoughts. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi Lander, +Greetings from sunny South Africa! +I had the same problem on my 703 control. - A new one costs over $100! + +This is how I fixed mine... + +Remove the control handle from the box (One 10mm bolt at the rear of the box). Carefully remove the two screws and plate holding the red plastic (neutral), stop. +Remove the two holding screws for the switch. + +Once you have the switch out, VERY CAREFULLY insert two small flat screwdrivers on either side at the rear of the press-button. Part the housing slightly to free the two pins on either side and lift the button out of its housing. + +Inside the housing you will find a small copper plate and a small spring. Remove the plate and check for dirt and signs of arcing and clean it thoroughly. (Very fine sandpaper will do). + +Replace the plate and check that the small spring goes back in as before when you replace the button. - Reassemble the unit carefully and it should work ok. + +Let us know how you get on. + +Good luck!","lander12 said: + + + + Hello to the group and good day from Eastern Canada. + +Has anyone ever had the tilt/trim switch apart in the Yamaha Model 703 motor control? On mine, the switch operation on the handle is intermittent and obviously not making a proper electrical connection due to age and use. The ""down"" portion seems to work OK but the ""up"" does not work all the time. When underway, I need for the switch to work since I can't trim the motor by using the switch on the motor (obviously). + +It starts working when I spray an aerosol cleaner in around the switch but the fix does not last. I notice that the cost of a new switch is astronomical ( $80.00 or more US) compared to what it is and does. + +Can the old switch be taken apart and contacts cleaned or by doing so, is the switch destroyed? Is there a cross-referenced, less expensive switch that will work? Perhaps there is a link to a fix. + +Thanks in advance for any thoughts. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi Lander, +Greetings from sunny South Africa! +I had the same problem on my 703 control. - A new one costs over $100! + +This is how I fixed mine... + +Remove the control handle from the box (One 10mm bolt at the rear of the box). Carefully remove the two screws and plate holding the red plastic (neutral), stop. +Remove the two holding screws for the switch. + +Once you have the switch out, VERY CAREFULLY insert two small flat screwdrivers on either side at the rear of the press-button. Part the housing slightly to free the two pins on either side and lift the button out of its housing. + +Inside the housing you will find a small copper plate and a small spring. Remove the plate and check for dirt and signs of arcing and clean it thoroughly. (Very fine sandpaper will do). + +Replace the plate and check that the small spring goes back in as before when you replace the button. - Reassemble the unit carefully and it should work ok. + +Let us know how you get on. + +Good luck!","there is but what you pay in $'s we pay similar prices in £'s.... + +would rather fix the problem as the motor is still functional and circuit breakers don't cost much if ou know what rating to buy" +"Hello to the group and good day from Eastern Canada. + +Has anyone ever had the tilt/trim switch apart in the Yamaha Model 703 motor control? On mine, the switch operation on the handle is intermittent and obviously not making a proper electrical connection due to age and use. The ""down"" portion seems to work OK but the ""up"" does not work all the time. When underway, I need for the switch to work since I can't trim the motor by using the switch on the motor (obviously). + +It starts working when I spray an aerosol cleaner in around the switch but the fix does not last. I notice that the cost of a new switch is astronomical ( $80.00 or more US) compared to what it is and does. + +Can the old switch be taken apart and contacts cleaned or by doing so, is the switch destroyed? Is there a cross-referenced, less expensive switch that will work? Perhaps there is a link to a fix. + +Thanks in advance for any thoughts.",Many thanks for the well written post. I will try that at my earliest opportunity- the control box is still in my boat and it is presently under a rather large amount of snow although covered over and protected.,Many thanks for the well written post. I will try that at my earliest opportunity- the control box is still in my boat and it is presently under a rather large amount of snow although covered over and protected.,"Motor is somewhat about four years old. Maximum warranty here in the USA is only three years. Maybe less outside the USA. + +In any event, pre-ignition or detonation damage is not covered by the warranty. Warranty is for defective parts. Something external causing the failure of the motor is not covered by the warranty. + +A four year old motor with just 30 hours on it tells me it is not being used. Maybe it had very old and degraded gasoline in it. That can result in detonation." +"Hello to the group and good day from Eastern Canada. + +Has anyone ever had the tilt/trim switch apart in the Yamaha Model 703 motor control? On mine, the switch operation on the handle is intermittent and obviously not making a proper electrical connection due to age and use. The ""down"" portion seems to work OK but the ""up"" does not work all the time. When underway, I need for the switch to work since I can't trim the motor by using the switch on the motor (obviously). + +It starts working when I spray an aerosol cleaner in around the switch but the fix does not last. I notice that the cost of a new switch is astronomical ( $80.00 or more US) compared to what it is and does. + +Can the old switch be taken apart and contacts cleaned or by doing so, is the switch destroyed? Is there a cross-referenced, less expensive switch that will work? Perhaps there is a link to a fix. + +Thanks in advance for any thoughts.","lander12 said: + + + + Many thanks for the well written post. I will try that at my earliest opportunity- the control box is still in my boat and it is presently under a rather large amount of snow although covered over and protected. + +Click to expand... + + +Well, you either need a snow shovel, or you gotta wait till warmer weather! +Let us know how you get on. - Good Luck!","lander12 said: + + + + Many thanks for the well written post. I will try that at my earliest opportunity- the control box is still in my boat and it is presently under a rather large amount of snow although covered over and protected. + +Click to expand... + + +Well, you either need a snow shovel, or you gotta wait till warmer weather! +Let us know how you get on. - Good Luck!","It's been a while since I've dropped by and a tad late to answer haventaclue but wanted to post this pic that may help others who has the same question. +BTW on some switches, it's recommended not to switch batteries while motor is running." +"Hello to the group and good day from Eastern Canada. + +Has anyone ever had the tilt/trim switch apart in the Yamaha Model 703 motor control? On mine, the switch operation on the handle is intermittent and obviously not making a proper electrical connection due to age and use. The ""down"" portion seems to work OK but the ""up"" does not work all the time. When underway, I need for the switch to work since I can't trim the motor by using the switch on the motor (obviously). + +It starts working when I spray an aerosol cleaner in around the switch but the fix does not last. I notice that the cost of a new switch is astronomical ( $80.00 or more US) compared to what it is and does. + +Can the old switch be taken apart and contacts cleaned or by doing so, is the switch destroyed? Is there a cross-referenced, less expensive switch that will work? Perhaps there is a link to a fix. + +Thanks in advance for any thoughts.","bel-ami 2 said: + + + + Well, you either need a snow shovel, or you gotta wait till warmer weather! +Let us know how you get on. - Good Luck! + +Click to expand... + + +The snow level finally diminished to allow the boat to be uncovered and the controls to be removed to my shop. I removed the handle and removed the switch. Unfortunately, the plastic hold down clips on either end of the switch broke off probably due to age. Anyway, once apart, the terminals on the rocker and in the switch bottom were covered with a layer of contamination that I removed. I applied a layer of circuit paste on the terminals before re-assembling. I had to glue the switch halves together since the clips were broken. + +The ""up"" switch still did not work but on investigation, the wire controlling this circuit had a poor connection in the cable going to the motor. I do not think that this was the root cause of the problem but certainly contributed to it. I say this because previously, I was able to get the switch to work by spraying circuit cleaner into the switch. + +Once the connection was re-established, the switch works well now. + +And considerably less cost than a new switch. I remember thinking that something as easy to make and containing so few cheap parts could sell for so much. The switch alone would sell for around CDN $100.00 + +Perhaps this will be helpful to others.","bel-ami 2 said: + + + + Well, you either need a snow shovel, or you gotta wait till warmer weather! +Let us know how you get on. - Good Luck! + +Click to expand... + + +The snow level finally diminished to allow the boat to be uncovered and the controls to be removed to my shop. I removed the handle and removed the switch. Unfortunately, the plastic hold down clips on either end of the switch broke off probably due to age. Anyway, once apart, the terminals on the rocker and in the switch bottom were covered with a layer of contamination that I removed. I applied a layer of circuit paste on the terminals before re-assembling. I had to glue the switch halves together since the clips were broken. + +The ""up"" switch still did not work but on investigation, the wire controlling this circuit had a poor connection in the cable going to the motor. I do not think that this was the root cause of the problem but certainly contributed to it. I say this because previously, I was able to get the switch to work by spraying circuit cleaner into the switch. + +Once the connection was re-established, the switch works well now. + +And considerably less cost than a new switch. I remember thinking that something as easy to make and containing so few cheap parts could sell for so much. The switch alone would sell for around CDN $100.00 + +Perhaps this will be helpful to others.","Are you sure you are looking at the throttle butterflies ?----Or the other set which is the choke flappers ?---And does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or better on all 3 leads ?" +I have a yamaha 8 horsepower motor 2 stroke ... the tag says Yamaha 8cm 6g1 S 052380 need to know the year it was built. Thank you.,"If that ""S"" is in the lower right it will be the year code. According to this page: http://www.ebay.com.au/gds/Outboard...DENTIFICATION-CODES-/10000000175675727/g.html + +""S"" is either 2001 or 1980. Does that sound about right for your motor? + +Stuart","If that ""S"" is in the lower right it will be the year code. According to this page: http://www.ebay.com.au/gds/Outboard...DENTIFICATION-CODES-/10000000175675727/g.html + +""S"" is either 2001 or 1980. Does that sound about right for your motor? + +Stuart","We still can't figure it out... We addressed that oil lever and made sure all of the lines are out of the way. Everything looks like it goes to the right position. Still, power feels fine until you get half way up the throttle, around 3100 RPM, and then the rest of the way nothing really changes even as the levers move. Now I'm starting to wonder if it's as simple as a fuel flow problem. + +Could a failing fuel pump cause it to only provide so much fuel and then not any more fuel even though you're pushing the throttle further?" +"Hey guys this weekend at the lake running about 5200 rpms the boat lost power down to about 3500rpms and would not accelerate over that. I shut the engine down, then when I stated the engine it had a slight miss seemed like bad fuel, this happened on my etec so I took off to the next spot and the boat still ran sluggish, when running the engine shut off and to my worst fear number one cylinder went, put a small hole right behind the starter size of my pinky. Need less to say I am sick boat never never made a knock or tick just loss of power then nothing. I haven't owned the boat/ motor but a year bought used at a dealer not sure I have any warrant on the engine so.......how bad is this going to set me back guys? I seen Yamaha has power heads for these around 4k but I can only image there will be plenty of add ons like injectors sent out ect. anyone with a rough number??","Sorry to hear about your trouble, that's really bad luck. The cost will depend on a lot of things of course, and unfortunately making the repair may be more expensive than just replacing the powerhead. If the crankshaft is still good and it has just thrown a connecting rod through the block then it might be cheaper to repair, but those bits of metal will have been in there while it was running so it's not going to be pretty I'd imagine. The good news is that the motor will have lots of valuable parts in good condition (given it's age) so if you can get a powerhead from a wreckers then you can either sell or reuse all the parts from your current motor. The real answer to you question depends on how much of the work you are willing to do yourself. I just did a long series of videos on rebuilding my Yamaha 50HP and it cost me about $2000 in parts and many many hours of work. If I had paid someone to do the job the rebuild wouldn't have been worth it. + +I hope it goes well for you, +Stuart","Sorry to hear about your trouble, that's really bad luck. The cost will depend on a lot of things of course, and unfortunately making the repair may be more expensive than just replacing the powerhead. If the crankshaft is still good and it has just thrown a connecting rod through the block then it might be cheaper to repair, but those bits of metal will have been in there while it was running so it's not going to be pretty I'd imagine. The good news is that the motor will have lots of valuable parts in good condition (given it's age) so if you can get a powerhead from a wreckers then you can either sell or reuse all the parts from your current motor. The real answer to you question depends on how much of the work you are willing to do yourself. I just did a long series of videos on rebuilding my Yamaha 50HP and it cost me about $2000 in parts and many many hours of work. If I had paid someone to do the job the rebuild wouldn't have been worth it. + +I hope it goes well for you, +Stuart","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Through the fuel system + +Click to expand... + +Is there a fuel oil ratio you suggest? Just regular Yamalube ? +Thanks." +I have an 88 yamaha pro 50 which ran great up until this past year. I blew a head gasket which I replaced. I have everything back together and it runs great except after 30 seconds. Then it dies. I'm thinking it is the fuel pump but I wanted other people's opinions first. It seems that it just runs out of gas because I have to pump the bulb quite a bit to get gas back up to the carbs. I rebuilt and cleaned the carbs before putting everything back together so I don't believe they are the issue but I could be wrong. Does anyone have insight?,"Do you know why the head gasket blew? There is generally a reason for this happening other than just age, and you may still have that problem. Presuming that is fine I go be checking the fuel supply as you suggested. This could be the fuel pump or the vent valve on the tank being closed preventing fuel from being drawn. + +Stuart","Do you know why the head gasket blew? There is generally a reason for this happening other than just age, and you may still have that problem. Presuming that is fine I go be checking the fuel supply as you suggested. This could be the fuel pump or the vent valve on the tank being closed preventing fuel from being drawn. + +Stuart","Take it back to the mechanic, If he did a 100 hour service and rebuilt the lower unit he needs to do it again." +I have an 88 yamaha pro 50 which ran great up until this past year. I blew a head gasket which I replaced. I have everything back together and it runs great except after 30 seconds. Then it dies. I'm thinking it is the fuel pump but I wanted other people's opinions first. It seems that it just runs out of gas because I have to pump the bulb quite a bit to get gas back up to the carbs. I rebuilt and cleaned the carbs before putting everything back together so I don't believe they are the issue but I could be wrong. Does anyone have insight?,"As Dangar said... If you are using a portable fuel tank, make sure the vent is fully open. If it is, perhaps it is clogged with something. To test, losen the tank fill cap and see if the engine will run without dieing (don't go tearing across the water with a lose fill cap to test this and of course, NO SMOKING when doing any of this). If it still stalls, a clogged vent isn't your problem. Some portable tanks have a filter stuck in the end of the pick-up line that sits on the bottom of the tank. You can unscrew the fitting where the fuel line plugs into the tank and you shoudl be able to pull up and out the pick-up line that is attached and see if there could be a clogged filter at the end of it. If there's a filter there, pull it off, see if you can blow through it, and clean it. Replace and see if the engine runs. If not, start checking all fuel lines as the engine could be sucking air from a break or leak somewhere. Are all bands and connections tight? With the engine turned off, slowly start squeezing the priming bulb and keep squeezing until heavy resistance. Do this while someone watches all fuel line connections and checks all lines. At some point the carbs will fully fill and the floats will shut off any more fuel into the cups... you won't be able to squeeze more without a great deal of pressure. While doing this, have someone keep looking over the fuel lines and under the engine cowling and see if any gas is leaking or squirting from anywhere. Do they smell any gas anywhere? If gas leaks or squirts anywhere under pumping pressure, that same place can suck air when the fuel pump is trying to suck fuel from the tank. If you complete all this and find nothing changes and find no leaks but you can keep the engine running as long as you keep squeezing the priming bulb and manually feed fuel to the engine, I'd say it's a bad the fuel pump.","As Dangar said... If you are using a portable fuel tank, make sure the vent is fully open. If it is, perhaps it is clogged with something. To test, losen the tank fill cap and see if the engine will run without dieing (don't go tearing across the water with a lose fill cap to test this and of course, NO SMOKING when doing any of this). If it still stalls, a clogged vent isn't your problem. Some portable tanks have a filter stuck in the end of the pick-up line that sits on the bottom of the tank. You can unscrew the fitting where the fuel line plugs into the tank and you shoudl be able to pull up and out the pick-up line that is attached and see if there could be a clogged filter at the end of it. If there's a filter there, pull it off, see if you can blow through it, and clean it. Replace and see if the engine runs. If not, start checking all fuel lines as the engine could be sucking air from a break or leak somewhere. Are all bands and connections tight? With the engine turned off, slowly start squeezing the priming bulb and keep squeezing until heavy resistance. Do this while someone watches all fuel line connections and checks all lines. At some point the carbs will fully fill and the floats will shut off any more fuel into the cups... you won't be able to squeeze more without a great deal of pressure. While doing this, have someone keep looking over the fuel lines and under the engine cowling and see if any gas is leaking or squirting from anywhere. Do they smell any gas anywhere? If gas leaks or squirts anywhere under pumping pressure, that same place can suck air when the fuel pump is trying to suck fuel from the tank. If you complete all this and find nothing changes and find no leaks but you can keep the engine running as long as you keep squeezing the priming bulb and manually feed fuel to the engine, I'd say it's a bad the fuel pump.","View attachment 1508 + +Pal, + +Do you have your batteries on charge when not in use? I have these dual circuit chargers at home and use them constantly when equipment is not in use. One in garage for the Harley and an extra battery, one in shed for tractor / yard equipment and am getting one for the boat, to perminently install, to charge both batteries seperately at same time while home on the trailer. + +Have had one for bike for a while now. Harley battery is going on 5 years old now and still strong as an ox. 1st battery only lasted 1 1/2 years on a Battery Tender, which went kaput and toasted the battery. They aren't cheap, around 170 ginkos, but neither are batteries." +I have an 88 yamaha pro 50 which ran great up until this past year. I blew a head gasket which I replaced. I have everything back together and it runs great except after 30 seconds. Then it dies. I'm thinking it is the fuel pump but I wanted other people's opinions first. It seems that it just runs out of gas because I have to pump the bulb quite a bit to get gas back up to the carbs. I rebuilt and cleaned the carbs before putting everything back together so I don't believe they are the issue but I could be wrong. Does anyone have insight?,"Thanks for your response. I did what you said and somethings I got another forum. I used some clear vinyl tubing and ran the engine and saw bubbles coming through. I kept moving the tubing down the fuel system towards the gas tank until I found a spot where the bubbles weren't coming through. By doing this, I found out that the fuel pumps ""IN"" port was disintegrating. This is where the air was coming in. I replaced it and it stays running. + +My next problem is that the engine doesn't get past 2500 rpm. I tried what you said about pumping the bulb until I get a lot of resistance but I was not able to get there. Before it got to the point, fuel started to come out of the top of the bottom carb. I noticed while it was running that the fuel continued. I'm guessing I will need to get a carb kit for this one but would a something like this cause it to run so bad a WOT?","Thanks for your response. I did what you said and somethings I got another forum. I used some clear vinyl tubing and ran the engine and saw bubbles coming through. I kept moving the tubing down the fuel system towards the gas tank until I found a spot where the bubbles weren't coming through. By doing this, I found out that the fuel pumps ""IN"" port was disintegrating. This is where the air was coming in. I replaced it and it stays running. + +My next problem is that the engine doesn't get past 2500 rpm. I tried what you said about pumping the bulb until I get a lot of resistance but I was not able to get there. Before it got to the point, fuel started to come out of the top of the bottom carb. I noticed while it was running that the fuel continued. I'm guessing I will need to get a carb kit for this one but would a something like this cause it to run so bad a WOT?","The oil would end up in the cylinder, which would explain why your flywheel ""locked up"". Have your pulled spark plug to check?" +I have an 88 yamaha pro 50 which ran great up until this past year. I blew a head gasket which I replaced. I have everything back together and it runs great except after 30 seconds. Then it dies. I'm thinking it is the fuel pump but I wanted other people's opinions first. It seems that it just runs out of gas because I have to pump the bulb quite a bit to get gas back up to the carbs. I rebuilt and cleaned the carbs before putting everything back together so I don't believe they are the issue but I could be wrong. Does anyone have insight?,"Oh, I also forgot to say that I don't know why the gasket went bad. I have built and rebuilt a bunch of racing engines and tons of small engines and it looks like the gasket just went bad. The cylinders looked good and I did a leak down test and they all looked good.","Oh, I also forgot to say that I don't know why the gasket went bad. I have built and rebuilt a bunch of racing engines and tons of small engines and it looks like the gasket just went bad. The cylinders looked good and I did a leak down test and they all looked good.",The tach going haywire is a good indicator that your rectified/regulator is shot. Follow the OMC procedure for checking it and be prepared to replace it. +I have an 88 yamaha pro 50 which ran great up until this past year. I blew a head gasket which I replaced. I have everything back together and it runs great except after 30 seconds. Then it dies. I'm thinking it is the fuel pump but I wanted other people's opinions first. It seems that it just runs out of gas because I have to pump the bulb quite a bit to get gas back up to the carbs. I rebuilt and cleaned the carbs before putting everything back together so I don't believe they are the issue but I could be wrong. Does anyone have insight?,Never mind. I'm an idiot. It should have clicked when I was writing this down yesterday but there was some crap between the needle and the seat. I pulled it apart and cleaned it again and it runs great.,Never mind. I'm an idiot. It should have clicked when I was writing this down yesterday but there was some crap between the needle and the seat. I pulled it apart and cleaned it again and it runs great.,"I believe Sea Star switched from NPT to ORB fittings on their steering pumps within the past 10 years. I replaced my push-pull steering system with a Sea Star hydraulic system in 2016 and there were lots of warnings in the instructions about not using NPT fittings where an ORB fitting was required. In your case, if you are dealing with a pump from 1999, it probably is NPT. + +I recommend calling or writing Sea Star support about it. I talked to them when I was doing my project and they were super helpful. + +http://www.seastarsolutions.com/support-2/technical-support/hydraulic-steering/" +"Drained the lower unit fluid after sitting the winter and it came out tan colored, used it 10 times last summer... +Noticed a small crack in the housing in the upper, middle of the circular part (where the prop is).. +Hooked up the water, refilled the unit and ran it... +Put finger by crack while running and felt air.... +No noticeable fluid leaks... +Don't mean to sound naive...I am a newbie as far as ownership..can this be the problem with the discoloration or are there other issues I should concern myself with... +Thanks","Cracks just about anywhere are never good, but it sounds like the one you have is far enough aft to be where the exhaust comes down, not where the gears and oil are. I would be inclined to drain the oil and perform some sort of simple pressure test like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lzn-nshSlwkWith a test like this you will know if you have a leak in the case or a bad oil seal somewhere fast enough.Stuart","Cracks just about anywhere are never good, but it sounds like the one you have is far enough aft to be where the exhaust comes down, not where the gears and oil are. I would be inclined to drain the oil and perform some sort of simple pressure test like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lzn-nshSlwkWith a test like this you will know if you have a leak in the case or a bad oil seal somewhere fast enough.Stuart","Ayuh,..... By-pass that valve, 'n see if it'll run,....." +"Drained the lower unit fluid after sitting the winter and it came out tan colored, used it 10 times last summer... +Noticed a small crack in the housing in the upper, middle of the circular part (where the prop is).. +Hooked up the water, refilled the unit and ran it... +Put finger by crack while running and felt air.... +No noticeable fluid leaks... +Don't mean to sound naive...I am a newbie as far as ownership..can this be the problem with the discoloration or are there other issues I should concern myself with... +Thanks","Thanks, gonna replace o ring(s), pressure check and hope for the best. +Put a new water pump kit in about 50 hrs ago. +If pressure test fails gonna have to pull the unit and have the work done and weld the crack.","Thanks, gonna replace o ring(s), pressure check and hope for the best. +Put a new water pump kit in about 50 hrs ago. +If pressure test fails gonna have to pull the unit and have the work done and weld the crack.",Go to www.boats.net and pull up the diagrams and parts list for your engine. +I have a 50hp yamaha outboard motor 4 stroke 2004 ..ran fine for about 20mins and quit..fired back up for a few sec ..got back to lauch pull plugs and can not turn flywheel. Plz,"I'd drop the gearbox off to confirm that it is the powerhead that won't move and not a seized gearbox. + +Stuart","I'd drop the gearbox off to confirm that it is the powerhead that won't move and not a seized gearbox. + +Stuart","Quoting your comment""they will provide plenty of power compared to the single I/O"" this is where my confusion is, the D6 Volvo turns a much bigger prop(or duo drop) and has the added torque with diesel vs gas on the outboards.Aliboy are you sure I will have more torque/power/thrust with the 2 250 Outboards this is the crux of the matter will there be less stress on this power package pushing our heavy prawn boats.Your input is appreciated as I have to have my facts right as this will be an expensive build." +"Does Yamaha, or a parts supplier, sell a carb kit for a 2006 25ESH? I, of course, see individual parts for sale on this site and others but I haven't seen a kit similar to those I buy for Johnson/Evinrude etc.","I don't think they do. I spoke to a Yamaha dealer about this once and he said that when you do see kits they are just the individual parts put together by downstream resellers and usually more expensive than the sum of the parts. This may not hold true for all parts of the world, but seems to be the case here in Australia.","I don't think they do. I spoke to a Yamaha dealer about this once and he said that when you do see kits they are just the individual parts put together by downstream resellers and usually more expensive than the sum of the parts. This may not hold true for all parts of the world, but seems to be the case here in Australia.",I have had this eng for about an year and just now. The service center I bought it from had installed a new one then. I put a little compressed air where it connects up and no air comes out of the pee hole but air comes out of the exhaust. +"Does Yamaha, or a parts supplier, sell a carb kit for a 2006 25ESH? I, of course, see individual parts for sale on this site and others but I haven't seen a kit similar to those I buy for Johnson/Evinrude etc.","What do you need a carb kit for? Before you spend a fortune on one of those ""Carb Kits"" that has a whole bunch of stuff that replaces everything that is probably just fine. Do what I do... Spend a few bucks on a 3-4 cans of jet spray carb cleaner. Carb cleaner is cheap, outboard engine parts are expensive. pull the carbs, break them down and blast that cleaner through every orifice you can find. Most important, each carb will have a brass fuel jet. You'll see it down in an orifice and you'll be able to back it out with a long thin standard screw driver. Most carb brobs come from clogged or partially clogged fuel jets. When you unscrew it it will look like a little brass tube that has a tiny TINY hole in it. THat little hole is where clogging usually happens with gunk and gum. Blast through that with the carb cleaner and take some COPPER wire and run it through that hole a few times. Don't use a pin ot paper clip as you don't want to scratch that brass and create a point where more gunk can get stuck. Copper is softer than brass so you can run a thin copper sire through there a few times to break any gunk out without scratching the brass. Blast away with some more carb cleaner and put it all back together. Dont' let anyone tell you all floats, gaskets, etc. need replaced when pulling and taking a carb apart. That is a bunch of hooey as 95% of the time after a cleaning and putting everything back the engine will run perfectly. Again... NO SKIMPING ON THE CANS OF CARB CLEANER.","What do you need a carb kit for? Before you spend a fortune on one of those ""Carb Kits"" that has a whole bunch of stuff that replaces everything that is probably just fine. Do what I do... Spend a few bucks on a 3-4 cans of jet spray carb cleaner. Carb cleaner is cheap, outboard engine parts are expensive. pull the carbs, break them down and blast that cleaner through every orifice you can find. Most important, each carb will have a brass fuel jet. You'll see it down in an orifice and you'll be able to back it out with a long thin standard screw driver. Most carb brobs come from clogged or partially clogged fuel jets. When you unscrew it it will look like a little brass tube that has a tiny TINY hole in it. THat little hole is where clogging usually happens with gunk and gum. Blast through that with the carb cleaner and take some COPPER wire and run it through that hole a few times. Don't use a pin ot paper clip as you don't want to scratch that brass and create a point where more gunk can get stuck. Copper is softer than brass so you can run a thin copper sire through there a few times to break any gunk out without scratching the brass. Blast away with some more carb cleaner and put it all back together. Dont' let anyone tell you all floats, gaskets, etc. need replaced when pulling and taking a carb apart. That is a bunch of hooey as 95% of the time after a cleaning and putting everything back the engine will run perfectly. Again... NO SKIMPING ON THE CANS OF CARB CLEANER.","Ayuh,...... It sounds like the shift switch on the shift plate where the upper, 'n lower shift cables meet, is disconnected,..... + +Probably to hide the symptoms of a failin' lower shift cable,..... + +Btw,..... This should be posted in the Mercruiser forum,....." +"Hello all. I have a 18ft RIB with a 90HP Yamaha DFI 2 stroke with 120 hours. I have an opportunity to purchase a 2004 Honda 115HP 4 stroke with only 48 hours on it. Between the purchase price of the Honda, and what I hope to sell the Yamaha for, I estimate that it will be about a $2000 upgrade. My question is, do you think it is worth it? The Honda is significantly heavier, so I don't know it the extra 25 HP would make a huge speed difference. However, I like the notion of polluting less, and not having to deal with 2-stroke oil. Any advice would be much appreciated. Pros vs Cons? Thanks, + +Eric","Stay with the 90 Yamaha. The Yamaha 90 is probably one of the most reliable and highest power to weight ratio motors ever made. It is virtually bulletproof. At about 260 Lbs your Yamaha also weighs about 200lbs LESS than that Honda 115. That's right.. 200 LBS LESS! You are correct, you aren't going to get any more speed as you'll have hung an extra 200 lbs on the back of an RIB. As far as pollution is concerned, I don't know how long you've had the boat but if you've had it a few years and you only have 120 hours on it, you are polluting far less with that outboard than whoever you sell it to will be polluting with it. Furthermore, I'd bet that outboard would find it's way to a small commercial fisherman's boat eventually where it will be run at high RPM's for thousands of hours. The level of pollution from a 2-stroke increases with RPM. Unless you run the engine all the time at more than 80% throttle, you are actually polluting very little. Yes, 2-strokes smoke more at start up and such but that is the nature of burning an oil and fuel mix. It is at the high RPM's 2-strokes start to experience blow-by in which the some unburned fuel/oil mixture can exit the exhaust port. When operated at normal RPM's the 2-strokes actually pollute very little. With 90HP on an 18' RIB, I'd bet you are seldom cruising with that engine at more than 1/2 throttle. Just my 2 cents... Stick with what ya have.","Stay with the 90 Yamaha. The Yamaha 90 is probably one of the most reliable and highest power to weight ratio motors ever made. It is virtually bulletproof. At about 260 Lbs your Yamaha also weighs about 200lbs LESS than that Honda 115. That's right.. 200 LBS LESS! You are correct, you aren't going to get any more speed as you'll have hung an extra 200 lbs on the back of an RIB. As far as pollution is concerned, I don't know how long you've had the boat but if you've had it a few years and you only have 120 hours on it, you are polluting far less with that outboard than whoever you sell it to will be polluting with it. Furthermore, I'd bet that outboard would find it's way to a small commercial fisherman's boat eventually where it will be run at high RPM's for thousands of hours. The level of pollution from a 2-stroke increases with RPM. Unless you run the engine all the time at more than 80% throttle, you are actually polluting very little. Yes, 2-strokes smoke more at start up and such but that is the nature of burning an oil and fuel mix. It is at the high RPM's 2-strokes start to experience blow-by in which the some unburned fuel/oil mixture can exit the exhaust port. When operated at normal RPM's the 2-strokes actually pollute very little. With 90HP on an 18' RIB, I'd bet you are seldom cruising with that engine at more than 1/2 throttle. Just my 2 cents... Stick with what ya have.",That's me. Famous throughout my whole bedroom. +"I have a fishing boat, in Ecuador, with a pair of Yamaha 200HP outboards (circa 2007). Because of the open rear-deck, the battery cable are about 20' feet long (6m). It's getting harder to start the motors and the cables do appear to be corroded so I'm thinking its time to replace them. The old cables are 2/0 gauge but its impossible to find 2/0 gauge battery cable in Ecuador (I need about 80' of it). I can get 1/0 cable and I'm pretty sure that would be OK if not for the distance from the batteries to the motors. (It would be a major pain to move the batteries closer). + +So here's the situation: I can get just enough 2/0 welder's cable in black for the negatives. But the only other cable I can find is red in 1/0 (a size down) - There's plenty of that. Now I'm thinking the best solution is to use the 2/0 black for the negatives and and 1/0 red for the positives. They don't match but I can't think of any reason why that would matter - It's just a simple circuit, no? The alternative would be to use red everywhere and label the negative cable with black PVC. + +Am I OK mixing the sizes like this or should I use the red 1/0 throughout? + +Thanks...",There isn't any real problem in having mismatched cables other than the original problem that the thinner cable will have to carry a high current therefore getting hot and causing voltage drop. Another option might be to double up the thinner cable if you have a plentiful supply. This will give the same effect as a thicker cable.,There isn't any real problem in having mismatched cables other than the original problem that the thinner cable will have to carry a high current therefore getting hot and causing voltage drop. Another option might be to double up the thinner cable if you have a plentiful supply. This will give the same effect as a thicker cable.,Should have mentioned. It did it at first for a short time. Tried key and it fired up. Ran a little farther and didi it again. Stayed dead for about 25 miles then tried it again. Had power cranked up and ran another couple miles and hit a wave. Shut down and hasn't come back to life since. +"I have a fishing boat, in Ecuador, with a pair of Yamaha 200HP outboards (circa 2007). Because of the open rear-deck, the battery cable are about 20' feet long (6m). It's getting harder to start the motors and the cables do appear to be corroded so I'm thinking its time to replace them. The old cables are 2/0 gauge but its impossible to find 2/0 gauge battery cable in Ecuador (I need about 80' of it). I can get 1/0 cable and I'm pretty sure that would be OK if not for the distance from the batteries to the motors. (It would be a major pain to move the batteries closer). + +So here's the situation: I can get just enough 2/0 welder's cable in black for the negatives. But the only other cable I can find is red in 1/0 (a size down) - There's plenty of that. Now I'm thinking the best solution is to use the 2/0 black for the negatives and and 1/0 red for the positives. They don't match but I can't think of any reason why that would matter - It's just a simple circuit, no? The alternative would be to use red everywhere and label the negative cable with black PVC. + +Am I OK mixing the sizes like this or should I use the red 1/0 throughout? + +Thanks...","DangarStu said: + + + + There isn't any real problem in having mismatched cables other than the original problem that the thinner cable will have to carry a high current therefore getting hot and causing voltage drop. Another option might be to double up the thinner cable if you have a plentiful supply. This will give the same effect as a thicker cable. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for responding. It was a local ""expert"" who advised against mixing sizes. But I expect that's because he wanted to sell me all that red cable. Another ""expert"" had told me the existing cable was 2/0, so I just went and took a closer look and I see that the existing cable is actually 1/0! I should have known! That's why when I need a competent mechanic, I have to fly one in from the continent.","DangarStu said: + + + + There isn't any real problem in having mismatched cables other than the original problem that the thinner cable will have to carry a high current therefore getting hot and causing voltage drop. Another option might be to double up the thinner cable if you have a plentiful supply. This will give the same effect as a thicker cable. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for responding. It was a local ""expert"" who advised against mixing sizes. But I expect that's because he wanted to sell me all that red cable. Another ""expert"" had told me the existing cable was 2/0, so I just went and took a closer look and I see that the existing cable is actually 1/0! I should have known! That's why when I need a competent mechanic, I have to fly one in from the continent.",You are close.-----The black thingy at the front locks the barrels in.-----You were almost there when pulling the thing towards yourself.----Look close at how that locks. +"wot only gets to 4400 rpms and so cleaned fuel system...ie tank, hoses, filter and carbs. no change. then it would drop to 2300 rpm out of the blue at WOT and come back intermittently. and also run rough at idle. would reach 5000 in neutral WOT. Tach started going in and out. checked spark and had no spark on 1 and 3 and weak spark on 2. no. 4 stayed strong through all. moved coils around and problem did not follow. Regulator was putting out 12.6 v at idle and went up to 16 v as throttle increased. Changed reg, and CDI with one off a spare motor same problem but now won't start at all. could it be puls coils or charge coils?","There are a few things to check here. The service manual will give you all the specifications you are looking for, readmanuals.com is a good source of these. Take a look at the gap between the timing lobes and the pulser coil. Also check the output voltage of the pulser coil once you have adjusted the gap. Use a DVA adapter with your multimeter to check the voltage from the CDI to the ignition coils. Check the resistance of the high tension leads connecting the coils to the plugs, and finally check/ change the plugs. This should give you a complete end-to-end test of the ignition system to see where it is going wrong. + +Stuart","There are a few things to check here. The service manual will give you all the specifications you are looking for, readmanuals.com is a good source of these. Take a look at the gap between the timing lobes and the pulser coil. Also check the output voltage of the pulser coil once you have adjusted the gap. Use a DVA adapter with your multimeter to check the voltage from the CDI to the ignition coils. Check the resistance of the high tension leads connecting the coils to the plugs, and finally check/ change the plugs. This should give you a complete end-to-end test of the ignition system to see where it is going wrong. + +Stuart",Post your question on the Johnson/Evinrude forum on this site. +"It looks like no oil in cylinder or carburetor and the oil level is showing in the level window. I removed the plug and pulled it over multiple times with no oil seepage or Resistance. I also unbolted the carb and looked in the intake and no oil. Anything else before I start it up? + +Another question, the carb bolts were loose and the spacer that the carb mounts to had 2 gaskets against the manifold. Should it have a gasket on either side or is this correct ?","well I cleaned it up a bit and blew out any excess oil in the lower cowling and backfire screen, top off the oil now I'm ready to fire it up. + +After looking at the spacer I went ahead and doubled up the gaskets on the manifold side and reassembled it the way I got it seemed right","well I cleaned it up a bit and blew out any excess oil in the lower cowling and backfire screen, top off the oil now I'm ready to fire it up. + +After looking at the spacer I went ahead and doubled up the gaskets on the manifold side and reassembled it the way I got it seemed right","Has anyone had an issue with an air lock in the VST? I.E. If the VST can't vent itself during low speed filling, could the back pressure from the trapped air prevent the lift pump from filling the VST? Just a guess." +"This is a new engine to me and I know a lot of these little motors only have a forward as this one does and you spin them around and flip the handle for reverse thust. Is this engine designed to operate that way ?. + +Looking inside the case the throttle cable has been damaged by catching on the engine when the handle is flipped all the way over and I don't see anything in the manual about using reverse trust",well I messed around and rerouted it a bit but it still doesn't seem right,well I messed around and rerouted it a bit but it still doesn't seem right,"That model is Yamaha Command Link compatible. AKA NMEA 2000. + +The Engine Control Unit (ECU) is logging time. That time can be displayed on a Yamaha 6Y8 gauge or an MFD having NEMA 2000 capability. The engine hours will be from the time the ECU was first installed. I only say this because if someone were to have replaced the ECU, the ECU would be indicating less engine time than was actually put on the motor. + +Here is what can be displayed on the 6Y8 gauge. Oil pressure is not available. VTS is available." +Hi i have a yamama 15hp 4stroke engine with a blown cylinder head gasket. When i looked into the cylinder it looked like this do i need to get it rebored?,"hey doug, + +I'll share come cracking advice, go post the same answer at http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/ and watch the useful responses flood back at you. + +Thanks +Chris","hey doug, + +I'll share come cracking advice, go post the same answer at http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/ and watch the useful responses flood back at you. + +Thanks +Chris",Wild guess? might be printed on top or side of battery +Hi there I cannot get my battery to charge so I replaced all wiring to battery and batteries. I then found I may not even have charging wires. Unfortunately being in a country that doesn't use outboards that much I cant find any help on the ground. Would anyone be so kind as to take a look at these pictures and let me know what should be happening at the rectifier to get charge back to the battery? Thanks very much for any information.,"Sorry images didn't load from my phone, here are a few please let me know if you would like more. Thank you","Sorry images didn't load from my phone, here are a few please let me know if you would like more. Thank you",A few things to check. I believe you can check the emergency fill switch from the harness. It should open and close as its activated. I think it will be open at rest and closed when activated. If this switch is not working you may need to replace the oil control unit. This unit is not serviceable on my motor. With key to ACC I would think you should have 12vdc at pump if you don't find out where the 12 should be coming from. Check the 12vdc positive from the harness but put your meter negative on battery negative when checking. Buy a repair manual. Could be a harness issue. You can also empty the motor oil tank and manually activate each switch on the float switch and follow the continuity from each switch. I believe the bottom two float switch wires are grounded to start pump. I would like to know how the top float switch closing stops the pump? Buy a repair manual. +"I just took my boat out of storage and tried to test run my motors. My 1991 9.9 4 stroke High Output motor will only start and run fine if i partially block the air intake to the carb with my hand. +I have cleaned the carb, started with new fuel with carb cleaner added. +It seams to be getting to much air but am not sure why, it ran fine last year before storing for the winter. + +Any suggestions out there on how to fix this issue?????","I wish somebody would answer this question, I have the same issue.","I wish somebody would answer this question, I have the same issue.",Could have been fluid that leaked down from the motor instead of a crack. Take a screwdriver and try to push it into the transom from the inside. Try it around the area you saw the web in. If you can't get it to go in then likely there is no problem with the transom. If you can get it in then you need to decide whether to repair the transom or get rid of the boat. If you like the boat then it may be worth repairing the transom if it is needed. +"I just took my boat out of storage and tried to test run my motors. My 1991 9.9 4 stroke High Output motor will only start and run fine if i partially block the air intake to the carb with my hand. +I have cleaned the carb, started with new fuel with carb cleaner added. +It seams to be getting to much air but am not sure why, it ran fine last year before storing for the winter. + +Any suggestions out there on how to fix this issue?????","I have a different 9.9 - a 2002 Honda. But I did have similar problems. So take this with a grain of salt. +1. The problem is fuel related. when you partially block the air intake - that increases the richness of the mixture. Without your hand - the mix is too lean and won't burn. +2. the carb needs to be COMPLETELY cleaned. The idle mixture screw needs to come out as well. Some of these motors have that idle mixture screw sealed off. The Honda had a dial setting on that screw. It was a plastic piece glued to the end of a normal needle valve - but it limited the adjust-ability for emissions reasons. This also prevented me from being able to fully remove that screw. I took the rest of the carb apart - blew carb cleaner through every hole I could find - but it never fixed the problem at idle. More dramatic steps had to be taken. +3. I pried that off that glued on dial with a screwdriver. Then I took a dremel disk to the flat head of the screw so I could get a screwdriver to engage the screw. (made a slot) +4. back that mixture screw out...guess what - it was loaded with carbon and varnish. Clean up that screw, then shoot carb cleaner into the screw hole. Put it back together and adjust the idle. + +Adjusting the mixture: The only adjustment is the idle mix. The main jets on the carb are fixed. +1. Start by screwing the mixture screw all the way in. +2. Back out 1.5 turns. +3. Try and start it. +4. If it doesn't start, back it out by half turn increments and repeat till it starts. +5. Let it warm up +6. Once warm, turn the mixture screw back in till the RPM drops, back it out till it is smooth. + +The factory tune on these things is so lean - they barely run. I found that a slightly richer idle makes a world of difference in the performance of the engine - no misfires, no stumble from idle to higher throttle settings. It didn't work this good when new. + +Good luck!","I have a different 9.9 - a 2002 Honda. But I did have similar problems. So take this with a grain of salt. +1. The problem is fuel related. when you partially block the air intake - that increases the richness of the mixture. Without your hand - the mix is too lean and won't burn. +2. the carb needs to be COMPLETELY cleaned. The idle mixture screw needs to come out as well. Some of these motors have that idle mixture screw sealed off. The Honda had a dial setting on that screw. It was a plastic piece glued to the end of a normal needle valve - but it limited the adjust-ability for emissions reasons. This also prevented me from being able to fully remove that screw. I took the rest of the carb apart - blew carb cleaner through every hole I could find - but it never fixed the problem at idle. More dramatic steps had to be taken. +3. I pried that off that glued on dial with a screwdriver. Then I took a dremel disk to the flat head of the screw so I could get a screwdriver to engage the screw. (made a slot) +4. back that mixture screw out...guess what - it was loaded with carbon and varnish. Clean up that screw, then shoot carb cleaner into the screw hole. Put it back together and adjust the idle. + +Adjusting the mixture: The only adjustment is the idle mix. The main jets on the carb are fixed. +1. Start by screwing the mixture screw all the way in. +2. Back out 1.5 turns. +3. Try and start it. +4. If it doesn't start, back it out by half turn increments and repeat till it starts. +5. Let it warm up +6. Once warm, turn the mixture screw back in till the RPM drops, back it out till it is smooth. + +The factory tune on these things is so lean - they barely run. I found that a slightly richer idle makes a world of difference in the performance of the engine - no misfires, no stumble from idle to higher throttle settings. It didn't work this good when new. + +Good luck!",Interlux Brightside 1 part Polyurethane. Tons of colors and just roll it on and tip it with a brush. Will come out like a spray job +"I just took my boat out of storage and tried to test run my motors. My 1991 9.9 4 stroke High Output motor will only start and run fine if i partially block the air intake to the carb with my hand. +I have cleaned the carb, started with new fuel with carb cleaner added. +It seams to be getting to much air but am not sure why, it ran fine last year before storing for the winter. + +Any suggestions out there on how to fix this issue?????","mdscole said: + + + + I have a different 9.9 - a 2002 Honda. But I did have similar problems. So take this with a grain of salt. +1. The problem is fuel related. when you partially block the air intake - that increases the richness of the mixture. Without your hand - the mix is too lean and won't burn. +2. the carb needs to be COMPLETELY cleaned. The idle mixture screw needs to come out as well. Some of these motors have that idle mixture screw sealed off. The Honda had a dial setting on that screw. It was a plastic piece glued to the end of a normal needle valve - but it limited the adjust-ability for emissions reasons. This also prevented me from being able to fully remove that screw. I took the rest of the carb apart - blew carb cleaner through every hole I could find - but it never fixed the problem at idle. More dramatic steps had to be taken. +3. I pried that off that glued on dial with a screwdriver. Then I took a dremel disk to the flat head of the screw so I could get a screwdriver to engage the screw. (made a slot) +4. back that mixture screw out...guess what - it was loaded with carbon and varnish. Clean up that screw, then shoot carb cleaner into the screw hole. Put it back together and adjust the idle. + +Adjusting the mixture: The only adjustment is the idle mix. The main jets on the carb are fixed. +1. Start by screwing the mixture screw all the way in. +2. Back out 1.5 turns. +3. Try and start it. +4. If it doesn't start, back it out by half turn increments and repeat till it starts. +5. Let it warm up +6. Once warm, turn the mixture screw back in till the RPM drops, back it out till it is smooth. + +The factory tune on these things is so lean - they barely run. I found that a slightly richer idle makes a world of difference in the performance of the engine - no misfires, no stumble from idle to higher throttle settings. It didn't work this good when new. + +Good luck![ +All good info and than you + +Click to expand...","mdscole said: + + + + I have a different 9.9 - a 2002 Honda. But I did have similar problems. So take this with a grain of salt. +1. The problem is fuel related. when you partially block the air intake - that increases the richness of the mixture. Without your hand - the mix is too lean and won't burn. +2. the carb needs to be COMPLETELY cleaned. The idle mixture screw needs to come out as well. Some of these motors have that idle mixture screw sealed off. The Honda had a dial setting on that screw. It was a plastic piece glued to the end of a normal needle valve - but it limited the adjust-ability for emissions reasons. This also prevented me from being able to fully remove that screw. I took the rest of the carb apart - blew carb cleaner through every hole I could find - but it never fixed the problem at idle. More dramatic steps had to be taken. +3. I pried that off that glued on dial with a screwdriver. Then I took a dremel disk to the flat head of the screw so I could get a screwdriver to engage the screw. (made a slot) +4. back that mixture screw out...guess what - it was loaded with carbon and varnish. Clean up that screw, then shoot carb cleaner into the screw hole. Put it back together and adjust the idle. + +Adjusting the mixture: The only adjustment is the idle mix. The main jets on the carb are fixed. +1. Start by screwing the mixture screw all the way in. +2. Back out 1.5 turns. +3. Try and start it. +4. If it doesn't start, back it out by half turn increments and repeat till it starts. +5. Let it warm up +6. Once warm, turn the mixture screw back in till the RPM drops, back it out till it is smooth. + +The factory tune on these things is so lean - they barely run. I found that a slightly richer idle makes a world of difference in the performance of the engine - no misfires, no stumble from idle to higher throttle settings. It didn't work this good when new. + +Good luck![ +All good info and than you + +Click to expand...",What motor ???----And I do not believe the coils on your motor need 12 volts from the battery to make spark for the plugs !-----Work carefully and make sure you do not apply 12 volts to the coils ! +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,"First you have to verify that the ignition system is not firing on that cylinder. If it is not firing the plug You will need a Peak Reading adapter for a digital volt meter or an analog volt meter to test this system. + +Here is a link to a guide to help you. Around page 115 + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/cdi_troubleshooting_guide_-_2012_1?e=2044661/2001100","First you have to verify that the ignition system is not firing on that cylinder. If it is not firing the plug You will need a Peak Reading adapter for a digital volt meter or an analog volt meter to test this system. + +Here is a link to a guide to help you. Around page 115 + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/cdi_troubleshooting_guide_-_2012_1?e=2044661/2001100","Here is a link to photos +https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3wez47ot7ak8yol/AACt487_QdttdEHzCCT3uAvpa?dl=0" +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + First you have to verify that the ignition system is not firing on that cylinder. If it is not firing the plug You will need a Peak Reading adapter for a digital volt meter or an analog volt meter to test this system. + +Here is a link to a guide to help you. Around page 115 + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/cdi_troubleshooting_guide_-_2012_1?e=2044661/2001100 + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the info but I don't have a peak reading adapter. I have to assume the plug is not firing because it's clean as I put it in. So if I did have a adapter and it was not firing could it be the ECM , Ouch $$$$ . Is it time to call someone and have them put the computer on it ?. Will it show up using a diagnostic software?. Thanks again, Bob","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + First you have to verify that the ignition system is not firing on that cylinder. If it is not firing the plug You will need a Peak Reading adapter for a digital volt meter or an analog volt meter to test this system. + +Here is a link to a guide to help you. Around page 115 + +http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/cdi_troubleshooting_guide_-_2012_1?e=2044661/2001100 + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the info but I don't have a peak reading adapter. I have to assume the plug is not firing because it's clean as I put it in. So if I did have a adapter and it was not firing could it be the ECM , Ouch $$$$ . Is it time to call someone and have them put the computer on it ?. Will it show up using a diagnostic software?. Thanks again, Bob","Okay, the wires have power when connected. I'm assuming the pump is no longer functional. What type of pump should I get? I don't want to make any changes then what's set up. It has a wash down hose, a drain hose, and then the aerator spray nozzle." +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,Don't assume anything. Get a spark tester and see if you do not have ignition. When you run the engine what is the maximum RPM while running on the water?,Don't assume anything. Get a spark tester and see if you do not have ignition. When you run the engine what is the maximum RPM while running on the water?,Put piston on #1 to bottom of stroke.-----Post pictures of cylinder wall both sides.----Repeat with other 2 cylinders. +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Don't assume anything. Get a spark tester and see if you do not have ignition. When you run the engine what is the maximum RPM while running on the water? + +Click to expand... + +I always run under 4000 rpm. I was running 3800 during 30 MPH and both engines sounded good. No problem getting on plane .Once starting the engine it would not kick over until I advance the throttle with some smoke . Must of flooded it. But that only happen once.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Don't assume anything. Get a spark tester and see if you do not have ignition. When you run the engine what is the maximum RPM while running on the water? + +Click to expand... + +I always run under 4000 rpm. I was running 3800 during 30 MPH and both engines sounded good. No problem getting on plane .Once starting the engine it would not kick over until I advance the throttle with some smoke . Must of flooded it. But that only happen once.",Does lower cowl come off to gain access +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,"Push the throttle Wide open and see what your max RPM is. + +If one cylinder was not firing you would notice the power loss. + +If you find that you have ignition on that cylinder it may be time to have the injectors cleaned.","Push the throttle Wide open and see what your max RPM is. + +If one cylinder was not firing you would notice the power loss. + +If you find that you have ignition on that cylinder it may be time to have the injectors cleaned.",old impeller all there when you removed it? +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,"Chris; +You are right, Don't Assume anything . I put a spark tester and its firing. So you think it's a injector fouled and not getting fuel ? Sounds good to me. Before pulling out the injectors is there away to check and see if the ejector is getting power or single to work. +Thk's + +BoB + +ob","Chris; +You are right, Don't Assume anything . I put a spark tester and its firing. So you think it's a injector fouled and not getting fuel ? Sounds good to me. Before pulling out the injectors is there away to check and see if the ejector is getting power or single to work. +Thk's + +BoB + +ob","Reason this is not a good Idea.The cable you hook to the boat batteries including the ground has to be the same size or larger than the large cable off the alternator that charges your vehicles battery. If it is not, it is a fire hazard." +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,"Nope. Pull all the injectors and have them tested and then cleaned. They need to be serviced by a fuel injector cleaning service. + +This company has a fast turn around. + + +http://www.fuelinjectorman.com/","Nope. Pull all the injectors and have them tested and then cleaned. They need to be serviced by a fuel injector cleaning service. + +This company has a fast turn around. + + +http://www.fuelinjectorman.com/","It’s not really necessary to wax your boat after every use, but this should be done at least once or twice during the season to preserve the luster of the hull and protect against the elements and impurities. Use a quality carnauba wax and apply several coats." +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Nope. Pull all the injectors and have them tested and then cleaned. They need to be serviced by a fuel injector cleaning service. + +This company has a fast turn around. + + +http://www.fuelinjectorman.com/ + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks again Chris. +I'll pull them and send them tomorrow. they are located 100 miles south of Nokomis but I'll mail them .Going to have to put fishing on back burner for a week or so just when the large grouper are turning hot off shore. +Thanks aging; + +Bob","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Nope. Pull all the injectors and have them tested and then cleaned. They need to be serviced by a fuel injector cleaning service. + +This company has a fast turn around. + + +http://www.fuelinjectorman.com/ + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks again Chris. +I'll pull them and send them tomorrow. they are located 100 miles south of Nokomis but I'll mail them .Going to have to put fishing on back burner for a week or so just when the large grouper are turning hot off shore. +Thanks aging; + +Bob","Ayuh,.... The color of a resin is pretty irrelevant ain't it,..?? + +I've seen pink, green, 'n blue tinted,... + +What, Exactly is the ultimate goal,..??" +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,"Chris +Getting to the injectors was not a problem .Getting them out is another thing. I noticed a slot on the flange, using a screw driver had no results. I soaked them overnight with Blaster .None will move .Is there a special way that I'm not doing ? Do need a special pulling tool ?","Chris +Getting to the injectors was not a problem .Getting them out is another thing. I noticed a slot on the flange, using a screw driver had no results. I soaked them overnight with Blaster .None will move .Is there a special way that I'm not doing ? Do need a special pulling tool ?",what was the conclusion? +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,"No special too needed. Once all attaching hardware and the rails are removed a twist and wiggle usually gets them out, Sometimes the rubber ring sticks and requires more effort.","No special too needed. Once all attaching hardware and the rails are removed a twist and wiggle usually gets them out, Sometimes the rubber ring sticks and requires more effort.","papyson said: + + + + he said he got Deka batteries...he did mention auto zone but i didnt know they or walmart carried dekas....oriely does..either way they are not cheap and good batteries...10 year warranty on their batteries and 5 years on their rebrands...i think the rebrands are red top but not positive on that... + +Click to expand... + + +I agree Deka does make the best battery. Walmart batteries will cause many issues." +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,Pulling the injectors can be an issue and it is possible you may damage some of them getting them out. You just need to persevere and be patient using lots of penetrating oil and quite a bit of carefully applied force.,Pulling the injectors can be an issue and it is possible you may damage some of them getting them out. You just need to persevere and be patient using lots of penetrating oil and quite a bit of carefully applied force.,"lander12 said: + + + + Many thanks for the well written post. I will try that at my earliest opportunity- the control box is still in my boat and it is presently under a rather large amount of snow although covered over and protected. + +Click to expand... + + +Well, you either need a snow shovel, or you gotta wait till warmer weather! +Let us know how you get on. - Good Luck!" +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,"It's been a while .But let me thank you for pointing me in the right direction. +I pulled my injectors and sent them out . There was one bad and one intermittently working . They had some old ones but tested good he let me have for $50.00 each. New about $400. Thanks for referring the injector man .The engine works great with quicker response advancing the throttle. +Thanks again , +Bob","It's been a while .But let me thank you for pointing me in the right direction. +I pulled my injectors and sent them out . There was one bad and one intermittently working . They had some old ones but tested good he let me have for $50.00 each. New about $400. Thanks for referring the injector man .The engine works great with quicker response advancing the throttle. +Thanks again , +Bob","Ayuh,..... 99% of the dip-tubes I've seen are 3/8"",...... + +Some ole outboards, smaller,..... +Some Monster off-shore runners, with Monster motors, maybe 1/2"",......" +Just when I get one problem fixed something else comes up. When changing the sparks on my Yamaha 150 hp Z150TXRC motor I found one plug clean. No evidence of burning fuel. I swapped the coil with lead and end cap to another position. After a day of fishing plug was still clean. Problem did not change. Where to go next ? Any suggestion would help. Thanks,Glad to hear it. Keep that fuel system clean.,Glad to hear it. Keep that fuel system clean.,"johnnygjr said: + + + + Turning over is cranking over, do you mean not firing,starting? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes sir not firing, starting" +"I have a 2006 2 stroke 90 model that I have just replaced the water pump/impellar, spark plugs and foot oil. Took it out on a fishing trip yesterday and it ran fantastically (54-5600 rpm) all day. On the ride back to the launch, the motor killed while a full speed. The were was no alarm - it was pissing very well all day. It did not sputter. I did not hit anything. It burned the normal amount of oil (no leaks). There was nothing in the prop. I looked at my friend and we were puzzled at to what just happened. It started up with no problem and once I slowed down again it killed. strated up once again, gave it some gas and when i let down it killed. + +I have no mechanical skills when it comes to outboards.......any ideas on this one? + +Thanks for any advice",Check lower unit oil.---------Did you fill oil from the bottom till it came out the top ?,Check lower unit oil.---------Did you fill oil from the bottom till it came out the top ?,"boscoe said: + + + + Completely dismantle the carburetors and clean them in a heated ultrasonic cleaner. Make sure that all passages and orifices are free and clear. + +Click to expand... + + +I figure this is probably the problem, but why would it always run for one minute strong?" +"I have a 2006 2 stroke 90 model that I have just replaced the water pump/impellar, spark plugs and foot oil. Took it out on a fishing trip yesterday and it ran fantastically (54-5600 rpm) all day. On the ride back to the launch, the motor killed while a full speed. The were was no alarm - it was pissing very well all day. It did not sputter. I did not hit anything. It burned the normal amount of oil (no leaks). There was nothing in the prop. I looked at my friend and we were puzzled at to what just happened. It started up with no problem and once I slowed down again it killed. strated up once again, gave it some gas and when i let down it killed. + +I have no mechanical skills when it comes to outboards.......any ideas on this one? + +Thanks for any advice",Try adjusting the throttle control or drain the carbs and see what comes out? Check for water in the gas.,Try adjusting the throttle control or drain the carbs and see what comes out? Check for water in the gas.,"kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Any good paint stripper will take it down to aluminum it may take a couple three times first use a putty knife to get the majority off a section at a time. make sure its dry and brush the paint stripper in one direction only. scrape it and then pressure wash it. you will get the feel for how long to let it set before scrapeing it. let it dry after pressure washing it and hit it again with stripper. You need to get down to raw aluminum and then etch it first before putting on the top coat. +http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/metal-boat-building/removing-paint-repainting-aluminum-26317.html I found this thread I did mine with the zinc chromate and top coat with two part enamel wish I would have tried the water base acrylic. It took forever to strip around all the rivets on my 12 ft starcraft. Make sure you wipe it good with acetone to degrease it before you apply the etch coat prep is everything. lots of thin coats is better than one thick coat. If you get bugs let the paint cure first then pick the bugs off I also used a cheap HVLP spray gun it actually came out pretty good for my first aluminum boat. Figure on a couple weeks of prep and cure time on the paint before you put it in the water. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for taking the time to reply!! I am working on a fiberglasss boat ,thats is why I am concerned if you can use a pressure washer or stripper on it +Thanks" +"I have a 2006 2 stroke 90 model that I have just replaced the water pump/impellar, spark plugs and foot oil. Took it out on a fishing trip yesterday and it ran fantastically (54-5600 rpm) all day. On the ride back to the launch, the motor killed while a full speed. The were was no alarm - it was pissing very well all day. It did not sputter. I did not hit anything. It burned the normal amount of oil (no leaks). There was nothing in the prop. I looked at my friend and we were puzzled at to what just happened. It started up with no problem and once I slowed down again it killed. strated up once again, gave it some gas and when i let down it killed. + +I have no mechanical skills when it comes to outboards.......any ideas on this one? + +Thanks for any advice","Wouldn't it sputter before it killed if it were bad gas? The gas is 3 months old ad I keep the boat in a metal building. Will check the cable throttle tomorrow. Could this be any electrical problem? A friend mentioned that - but I don't see how an electrical problem would affect a running motor. + +Thank y'all, by the way.","Wouldn't it sputter before it killed if it were bad gas? The gas is 3 months old ad I keep the boat in a metal building. Will check the cable throttle tomorrow. Could this be any electrical problem? A friend mentioned that - but I don't see how an electrical problem would affect a running motor. + +Thank y'all, by the way.","After checking just about everything possible, I rigged the antenna up to another radio on the boat. Same problem. Then installed another antenna, and all is fine. Bad antenna - apparently something wrong with the shielding or the leads. Thanks all for your input and help." +"I have a 2006 2 stroke 90 model that I have just replaced the water pump/impellar, spark plugs and foot oil. Took it out on a fishing trip yesterday and it ran fantastically (54-5600 rpm) all day. On the ride back to the launch, the motor killed while a full speed. The were was no alarm - it was pissing very well all day. It did not sputter. I did not hit anything. It burned the normal amount of oil (no leaks). There was nothing in the prop. I looked at my friend and we were puzzled at to what just happened. It started up with no problem and once I slowed down again it killed. strated up once again, gave it some gas and when i let down it killed. + +I have no mechanical skills when it comes to outboards.......any ideas on this one? + +Thanks for any advice","And if it turns out to be bad gas, do I just drain it and add fresh gas and run it through? Or do I have to clean the carburetor.","And if it turns out to be bad gas, do I just drain it and add fresh gas and run it through? Or do I have to clean the carburetor.","should have done your research, BEFORE, you started cutting......" +"I have a 2006 2 stroke 90 model that I have just replaced the water pump/impellar, spark plugs and foot oil. Took it out on a fishing trip yesterday and it ran fantastically (54-5600 rpm) all day. On the ride back to the launch, the motor killed while a full speed. The were was no alarm - it was pissing very well all day. It did not sputter. I did not hit anything. It burned the normal amount of oil (no leaks). There was nothing in the prop. I looked at my friend and we were puzzled at to what just happened. It started up with no problem and once I slowed down again it killed. strated up once again, gave it some gas and when i let down it killed. + +I have no mechanical skills when it comes to outboards.......any ideas on this one? + +Thanks for any advice","I had a problem with my 1996 Yamaha, but I cracked the plastic around where the fuel line came into the carb, tried to glue it together but it was sucking air, ie; check fuel lines not split or loose, also if using a tote tank check those lines as well. Could be all about the fuel delivery and if air is present the motor will want to use more fuel than it can get, due to air. +Graham","I had a problem with my 1996 Yamaha, but I cracked the plastic around where the fuel line came into the carb, tried to glue it together but it was sucking air, ie; check fuel lines not split or loose, also if using a tote tank check those lines as well. Could be all about the fuel delivery and if air is present the motor will want to use more fuel than it can get, due to air. +Graham","Great idea mate on the grease ? This is why we use the forum? +thanks everyone for your advice I'll try it all this week ??" +"I have a 2006 2 stroke 90 model that I have just replaced the water pump/impellar, spark plugs and foot oil. Took it out on a fishing trip yesterday and it ran fantastically (54-5600 rpm) all day. On the ride back to the launch, the motor killed while a full speed. The were was no alarm - it was pissing very well all day. It did not sputter. I did not hit anything. It burned the normal amount of oil (no leaks). There was nothing in the prop. I looked at my friend and we were puzzled at to what just happened. It started up with no problem and once I slowed down again it killed. strated up once again, gave it some gas and when i let down it killed. + +I have no mechanical skills when it comes to outboards.......any ideas on this one? + +Thanks for any advice","Re: 90 hp Yamaha power trim motor + +Yamaha 90 power trim motor.","Re: 90 hp Yamaha power trim motor + +Yamaha 90 power trim motor.",Ck your Lanyard switch. +"Pulled the back cover with the 2 bolts off of the lower unit, (gear oil is leaking out of the prop shaft seal). The old fishing line tore it up story. OK, never had to replace one but the 1 large bearing is in the way, do I need a puller or special tools to remove it? (just never had to replace one of these seals and want to be sure) thanks for any info.","The large bearing you are referring to is probably the trust washer and should just slide off the prop shaft. Behind that will be the oil seals (there is usually a pair facing in opposite directions. It is possible to drill into the bearings, put some screws in the hole and pulls the seals out that way, which avoids the need to remove the bearing housing, but there is a high chance of nicking the propshaft so I would try to remove the bearing housing if you can. To do this you need to undo the two fasteners that hold it in and (if you are lucky) put a screwdriver in the recesses and lever it out. If that doesn't work you'll need to put a puller on the housing to remove it. Once it is out it will be easy to remove the seals without the propshaft in the way. + +I know that is probably a bit hard to picture but you should be able to find the process on YouTube somewhere. + +Stuart","The large bearing you are referring to is probably the trust washer and should just slide off the prop shaft. Behind that will be the oil seals (there is usually a pair facing in opposite directions. It is possible to drill into the bearings, put some screws in the hole and pulls the seals out that way, which avoids the need to remove the bearing housing, but there is a high chance of nicking the propshaft so I would try to remove the bearing housing if you can. To do this you need to undo the two fasteners that hold it in and (if you are lucky) put a screwdriver in the recesses and lever it out. If that doesn't work you'll need to put a puller on the housing to remove it. Once it is out it will be easy to remove the seals without the propshaft in the way. + +I know that is probably a bit hard to picture but you should be able to find the process on YouTube somewhere. + +Stuart","You'd have to rig up a manifold of sorts to provide the T connection while allowing a positive shutoff on the empty tank. + +Then you'd have to mount it.....and then maintain it. + +I'd think the current setup is as simple as it gets - maybe not convenient, but simple." +"Pulled the back cover with the 2 bolts off of the lower unit, (gear oil is leaking out of the prop shaft seal). The old fishing line tore it up story. OK, never had to replace one but the 1 large bearing is in the way, do I need a puller or special tools to remove it? (just never had to replace one of these seals and want to be sure) thanks for any info.","thanks for the info but yes, I did see that process on utube done to a larger motor but remember this is a small 4hp motor, the rear cap with the 2 bolts slides right off of the prop shaft so I'm not working near the prop shaft. Just looking at what looks like a pressed in bearing with the seal behind it. I just can't find anywhere on the internet where someone is changing the prop shaft oil seal on a smaller motor. Looks like it would be a simple job if the bearing was out of the way but I'm still not sure if it is pressed it. If this link works its the bearing #41 with the seals that I'm after right behind it. Not sure if the bearing is pressed in because it doesn't budge. Its a Yamaha made mariner 4hp. So I have the cap off with the bearing attached to it. +http://www.ishopmarine.com/ishop/js...cCatFilter=MM&eCatSupFldr=supplier-050-025-MM","thanks for the info but yes, I did see that process on utube done to a larger motor but remember this is a small 4hp motor, the rear cap with the 2 bolts slides right off of the prop shaft so I'm not working near the prop shaft. Just looking at what looks like a pressed in bearing with the seal behind it. I just can't find anywhere on the internet where someone is changing the prop shaft oil seal on a smaller motor. Looks like it would be a simple job if the bearing was out of the way but I'm still not sure if it is pressed it. If this link works its the bearing #41 with the seals that I'm after right behind it. Not sure if the bearing is pressed in because it doesn't budge. Its a Yamaha made mariner 4hp. So I have the cap off with the bearing attached to it. +http://www.ishopmarine.com/ishop/js...cCatFilter=MM&eCatSupFldr=supplier-050-025-MM","Well, that picture is not that bad. Whoever wired it used neoprene to insulate the wires from chaffing against the metal bracket. A plastic hole sleave would have been a better solution. + +You can probably purchase the harness, but that is problamatic, since you are not exactly sure of what engine you have. Typically, you will have one of two types of set-up. The first will be a hardwire situation, where each wire off the engine runs directly to your console - ignition wires, heat sensor wire, oil pressure wire, tach wire, etc. The other situation is when each of the engine function wires run into a large multi-pin connector plug. That plug is then mated to a multi-wire plug that takes the wires to your console. At the console, you will have another multi-pin wire with leads to the ignition, gauges, warning buzzer, and so worth. + +Personally, I would make my own. That way, I know exactly what I am dealing with. I think if you do some Google searches, you'll find a discussion on the setup. Start by typing in something like ""Marine 305 wiring harness"". + +The bottom line is that you are going to need to spend some time unraveling what you have and how it should be wired up. It's a great learning experience and you will build a lot of confidence in your engine and setup." +"Pulled the back cover with the 2 bolts off of the lower unit, (gear oil is leaking out of the prop shaft seal). The old fishing line tore it up story. OK, never had to replace one but the 1 large bearing is in the way, do I need a puller or special tools to remove it? (just never had to replace one of these seals and want to be sure) thanks for any info.",If you heat the housing with a propane torch the bearing may fall out.,If you heat the housing with a propane torch the bearing may fall out.,"Okay on all aluminum. Not sure about mandatory, but I would certainly have one in order to bail out water while underway. I've had enough time in john boats where I've been damn near swamped and the only thing that saved me from taking an unplanned swim was cranking up the engine, run like hell and pull the drain plug." +"Pulled the back cover with the 2 bolts off of the lower unit, (gear oil is leaking out of the prop shaft seal). The old fishing line tore it up story. OK, never had to replace one but the 1 large bearing is in the way, do I need a puller or special tools to remove it? (just never had to replace one of these seals and want to be sure) thanks for any info.","Apologies, didn't read the 4hp part properly. Hmmm, little hard to see from the parts diagram, can you post a picture?","Apologies, didn't read the 4hp part properly. Hmmm, little hard to see from the parts diagram, can you post a picture?","Sorry about multiple posts, but I am researching this on the fly. I see that there are many threads over a lot of years on this topic and the bottom line is that certain of the yamaha models( I am new to the brand) have rectifiers only and no regulator. Is there typically a plug in yamaha rectifier/regulator that can solve this problem or do we need to go aftermarket? I am also getting the impression that for most of the time we just get away with it. Shame to find out that we cannot always get away with it when some electronics is fried." +"Pulled the back cover with the 2 bolts off of the lower unit, (gear oil is leaking out of the prop shaft seal). The old fishing line tore it up story. OK, never had to replace one but the 1 large bearing is in the way, do I need a puller or special tools to remove it? (just never had to replace one of these seals and want to be sure) thanks for any info.","here is a picture of it, leaking seal is behind the bearing.","here is a picture of it, leaking seal is behind the bearing.","The ""not smooth"" part indicates something is amiss....do the pump's check valves woork when you turn the wheel hard over to both sides? if not, one may be stuck partially open. + +The other item to check is the cylinder's pivot mount...if it is corroded, it can induce that condition as well...also, it can induce a side load on the cylinder and cause leakage there... + +If they are both good, then bleed it again. Once done, check the cylinder to make sure it isn't drifting...if that is ok, I'd bet on the pump needing an overhaul...a good hydraulic shop can likely perform that task." +"Pulled the back cover with the 2 bolts off of the lower unit, (gear oil is leaking out of the prop shaft seal). The old fishing line tore it up story. OK, never had to replace one but the 1 large bearing is in the way, do I need a puller or special tools to remove it? (just never had to replace one of these seals and want to be sure) thanks for any info.",??????--------Heat the housing and the bearing will fall out.,??????--------Heat the housing and the bearing will fall out.,Thanks for the reply emac. I'm really regretting the purchase of this boat now that I see how extensive this cracking is. I may take it to a qualified repair shop to have them give the boat a once-over and let me know what i'm looking at here. Originally I had hoped this was just old age cracks..but the transom cracks have be really worried. +"Pulled the back cover with the 2 bolts off of the lower unit, (gear oil is leaking out of the prop shaft seal). The old fishing line tore it up story. OK, never had to replace one but the 1 large bearing is in the way, do I need a puller or special tools to remove it? (just never had to replace one of these seals and want to be sure) thanks for any info.",Worked like a charm! thanks! when you put the 2 new seals in do they both go in facing the same way?,Worked like a charm! thanks! when you put the 2 new seals in do they both go in facing the same way?,Sounds like the pump has gone bad?? +"Pulled the back cover with the 2 bolts off of the lower unit, (gear oil is leaking out of the prop shaft seal). The old fishing line tore it up story. OK, never had to replace one but the 1 large bearing is in the way, do I need a puller or special tools to remove it? (just never had to replace one of these seals and want to be sure) thanks for any info.","Glad you got it out. Yep, that exploded parts diagram you posted shows them both going the same way.","Glad you got it out. Yep, that exploded parts diagram you posted shows them both going the same way.","rmmu said: + + + + Question to Racerone and/or Classicaq (obviously guys with great expertise) about the above procedure. I am just a weekend boater learning how to service my outboard, but have informally heard that it is convenient to put the outboard into gear before dropping the lower leg. + + +The reason stated was that, when you re-install the lower leg and push the drive shaft back up, it's splines have to mesh with the female splines in the top unit. If they are slightly off, the shaft won't go up, so if the unit was left in gear, it is convenient to just jiggle the prop while pushing up and the splines would mesh. + + +Is there any merit in that approach, or alternatively, any disadvantage? + +Click to expand... + + +Definitely has merit. But just the same, if the LU is in neutral gear when reinstalling and you encounter the same problem you'd only need to very slightly angle the LU to find the groove. Once you've done this, push LU up while moving back to center line. 6--Half dozen....both methods give you the same result. Some have better success dropping in gear, others in neutral." +"Pulled the back cover with the 2 bolts off of the lower unit, (gear oil is leaking out of the prop shaft seal). The old fishing line tore it up story. OK, never had to replace one but the 1 large bearing is in the way, do I need a puller or special tools to remove it? (just never had to replace one of these seals and want to be sure) thanks for any info.",No more oil leak! thanks everyone!,No more oil leak! thanks everyone!,"These old Yamaha motors were great motors with very few issues such as electrical problems. To make this motor work for you , you have to ascertain if the motor is in good shape so a compression test is needed. Get a compression gauge, disconnect all of the spark plug wires, open the throttle to wide open by pressing in the over ride gear selection, remove all of the spark plugs and do one cylinder at a time. You need to have 90 to 115 psi on each cylinder and the pressure should be even. Best with no more than 15 lbs difference. If its 75 or lower in one or more cylinders then its tear down time unfortunately. If you continue to use the engine it will fail and do very serious damage to the engine making it not economical to fix $$$.If its good then remove the carbs and have them professionally cleaned and adjusted to factory specs.Remove the gear box and install new seals and water pump impeller. Remove and replace the thermostats. Clean the fuel tank if its in the boat or if its and portable one, replace ALL OF THE FUEL FILTERS. Install new NGK-B7HS spark plugs and fire it up. Now you have an engine that you know is in good shape with no guesses. Even paying for this work its a tiny fraction for what new motors cost of what it will cost you if you just hope its OK and then you have to rebuild." +"Pulled the back cover with the 2 bolts off of the lower unit, (gear oil is leaking out of the prop shaft seal). The old fishing line tore it up story. OK, never had to replace one but the 1 large bearing is in the way, do I need a puller or special tools to remove it? (just never had to replace one of these seals and want to be sure) thanks for any info.",Nice work.,Nice work.,"It is an icon of an engine ( not flashing) +round tach gauge which is above the rotund +speed gauge with gas gauge +2016 Yamaha 150 four stroke +Thanks" +"Boats producing 20 volts, when I unplugged the power cable feeding the motor from the on off switch it stopped producing 20 volts. Anyone have any suggestions.","Can you give a bit more information on this one? What model engine is it? By cable feeding the motor are you referring to the batter lead or wires from the kill switch? Where are you measuring when you get the 20V reading? It is generally the job or a regulator to keep the charging voltage to a safe level. Your motor may not have one installed. + +Stuart","Can you give a bit more information on this one? What model engine is it? By cable feeding the motor are you referring to the batter lead or wires from the kill switch? Where are you measuring when you get the 20V reading? It is generally the job or a regulator to keep the charging voltage to a safe level. Your motor may not have one installed. + +Stuart","Limp mode is triggered by low oil or high temp, not by a fuel related issue. Do you have yam oil/temp gauge? The gauge will indicate which of sensors is triggered by a blinking bar over the oil/temp symbol." +"I have a 2007 Yamaha 60 hp 4 stroke outboard. While at the lake I suddenly lost power, I later discovered that I had gas in my oil when I checked the oil level. I also found that I had a bad fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump, changed the oil and took it back out, for about 30 minutes it ran fine then it lost power again and I still have gas getting in the oil. I am also loosing fuel pressure in the line from the tank to the motor when running. When it is not running it does not loose pressure at all even after a few weeks of sitting. I am planning on taking it to a mechanic but wanted to see if I could find some more info here first. Thanks.","Have you done a compression test on this motor? It is possible that the rings are very worn and fuel is getting past them, it is also possible that the valve guides are worn and fuel is getting up into the rocker cover. Is this was happening though it would undoubtedly be blowing a lot of smoke. The other possibility is that it is leaking from the fuel pump into the rocker cover and draining down into the sump from there. The fuel pump is driving off one of the cam lobes and there will no doubt be a seal between that may have failed. + +Stuart","Have you done a compression test on this motor? It is possible that the rings are very worn and fuel is getting past them, it is also possible that the valve guides are worn and fuel is getting up into the rocker cover. Is this was happening though it would undoubtedly be blowing a lot of smoke. The other possibility is that it is leaking from the fuel pump into the rocker cover and draining down into the sump from there. The fuel pump is driving off one of the cam lobes and there will no doubt be a seal between that may have failed. + +Stuart",Thanks +"I have a 2007 Yamaha 60 hp 4 stroke outboard. While at the lake I suddenly lost power, I later discovered that I had gas in my oil when I checked the oil level. I also found that I had a bad fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump, changed the oil and took it back out, for about 30 minutes it ran fine then it lost power again and I still have gas getting in the oil. I am also loosing fuel pressure in the line from the tank to the motor when running. When it is not running it does not loose pressure at all even after a few weeks of sitting. I am planning on taking it to a mechanic but wanted to see if I could find some more info here first. Thanks.",Check that fuel pump(I know it's new) for a leak into the engine.,Check that fuel pump(I know it's new) for a leak into the engine.,"It's been a while since I've dropped by and a tad late to answer haventaclue but wanted to post this pic that may help others who has the same question. +BTW on some switches, it's recommended not to switch batteries while motor is running." +"I have a 2007 Yamaha 60 hp 4 stroke outboard. While at the lake I suddenly lost power, I later discovered that I had gas in my oil when I checked the oil level. I also found that I had a bad fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump, changed the oil and took it back out, for about 30 minutes it ran fine then it lost power again and I still have gas getting in the oil. I am also loosing fuel pressure in the line from the tank to the motor when running. When it is not running it does not loose pressure at all even after a few weeks of sitting. I am planning on taking it to a mechanic but wanted to see if I could find some more info here first. Thanks.","Stuart Allen said: + + + + Have you done a compression test on this motor? It is possible that the rings are very worn and fuel is getting past them, it is also possible that the valve guides are worn and fuel is getting up into the rocker cover. Is this was happening though it would undoubtedly be blowing a lot of smoke. The other possibility is that it is leaking from the fuel pump into the rocker cover and draining down into the sump from there. The fuel pump is driving off one of the cam lobes and there will no doubt be a seal between that may have failed. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +No I haven't I'll check on all that thanks for your time.","Stuart Allen said: + + + + Have you done a compression test on this motor? It is possible that the rings are very worn and fuel is getting past them, it is also possible that the valve guides are worn and fuel is getting up into the rocker cover. Is this was happening though it would undoubtedly be blowing a lot of smoke. The other possibility is that it is leaking from the fuel pump into the rocker cover and draining down into the sump from there. The fuel pump is driving off one of the cam lobes and there will no doubt be a seal between that may have failed. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + +No I haven't I'll check on all that thanks for your time.","Thank you for the response, most helpful. + +The next question is, does anyone know where to find a complete wiring diagram? My on line search has led to a few dead ends. It needs to be downloadable as packages take about 3 weeks to get to me. + +The motor is a S200 TXRB. + +Headed out to check some voltages now. + +Cheers." +"I have a 2007 Yamaha 60 hp 4 stroke outboard. While at the lake I suddenly lost power, I later discovered that I had gas in my oil when I checked the oil level. I also found that I had a bad fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump, changed the oil and took it back out, for about 30 minutes it ran fine then it lost power again and I still have gas getting in the oil. I am also loosing fuel pressure in the line from the tank to the motor when running. When it is not running it does not loose pressure at all even after a few weeks of sitting. I am planning on taking it to a mechanic but wanted to see if I could find some more info here first. Thanks.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Check that fuel pump(I know it's new) for a leak into the engine. + +Click to expand... + +I will thanks","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Check that fuel pump(I know it's new) for a leak into the engine. + +Click to expand... + +I will thanks","so you got one new engine and now neither ignition switch works properly...??? sounds like somebody hacked the wiring somewhere.... + +2X on the Q in post #6... + +The ignition switch should supply +12VDC to the ignition when its in RUN and nothing when OFF....may read lower if an older style ignition is used (w/ a ballast resistor). If the +12VDC remains when the engine is running, and the switch off, the ignition keeps working....if the wiring is correct, the alternator could be a source if it has malfunctioned." +"I got a motor that is a 90s model. The twist throttle will not go all the way to full throttle. I know this + +1. from the sound of the motor +2. the diagram on the twist handle + +Can you guys get me on track with what this could be? Perhaps a common issue?","I was trying to set the timing on a friends 15 yammy and noticed the same problem. Reading the manual I'm thinking that it wasn't going to full throttle because it was in neutral and there is a mechanism to stopping it over revving in neutral. I'll test this theory tomorrow and let you know what I find out. If yours isn't revving in gear there is a chance it may be a fault with this same mechanism. Failing that there is a chance that the teeth on the two shafts where the tiller bends are misaligned. This would mean undoing the two bolts on the cowling half to separate the teeth and let you re-align the two halves of the throttle linkage. This probably means turning the tiller end back towards idle so that it has more travel again. There are also stop screws under the cowling for idle and full throttle. + +Stuart","I was trying to set the timing on a friends 15 yammy and noticed the same problem. Reading the manual I'm thinking that it wasn't going to full throttle because it was in neutral and there is a mechanism to stopping it over revving in neutral. I'll test this theory tomorrow and let you know what I find out. If yours isn't revving in gear there is a chance it may be a fault with this same mechanism. Failing that there is a chance that the teeth on the two shafts where the tiller bends are misaligned. This would mean undoing the two bolts on the cowling half to separate the teeth and let you re-align the two halves of the throttle linkage. This probably means turning the tiller end back towards idle so that it has more travel again. There are also stop screws under the cowling for idle and full throttle. + +Stuart","Ayuh,... Both pictures are bad gelcoat, no paint anywhere,..... + +The spider cracks will probably come back through new gelcoat,... + +Either way, yer lookin' at Alota sandin' to restore it,.... + +Personally, I'd sand it, fair it out, sand it again, 'n paint it with a quality 2-pt. urethane paint,...." +"Hi. I have a 2004 Yamaha 50TLRNC. When I press either one of the 2 switches to operate the tilt/trim, I am getting a click. I have narrowed the click down to the RECTIFIER & REGULATOR ASSY on the top/aft/ starboard side of the engine. In researching the possible reasons why I am getting a click, I keep coming up with 2 different relays. I don't see any relays on this motor. But the click is definitely coming from the RECTIFIER & REGULATOR ASSY. Up until yesterday, my PTT was working fine. This is a 4 stroke engine. Any ideas? +Thanks +Brett","If you trace the wires from either your hydraulic motor on the leg or the trailer switch on the side of the cowling, they should lead you to the trim-tilt relay. This is where the click you are hearing is most likely coming from. That relay will have power coming in, switch wires coming in and then power out to the motor. Try isolating each component. If you supply power straight to the hydraulic motor does it move? If so, it sounds like you might have some corroded connections where it or the input power attach to the relay. I'd say your switch is working just fine if you are hearing the click. Also keep in mind that bad connections will cause high resistance and a voltage drop over those connections so makes sure they are all clean and tight. + +I did a video recently on electric start outboards that don't turn over, some of the concepts will probably be helpful to you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1h-blqDm4U + +Stuart","If you trace the wires from either your hydraulic motor on the leg or the trailer switch on the side of the cowling, they should lead you to the trim-tilt relay. This is where the click you are hearing is most likely coming from. That relay will have power coming in, switch wires coming in and then power out to the motor. Try isolating each component. If you supply power straight to the hydraulic motor does it move? If so, it sounds like you might have some corroded connections where it or the input power attach to the relay. I'd say your switch is working just fine if you are hearing the click. Also keep in mind that bad connections will cause high resistance and a voltage drop over those connections so makes sure they are all clean and tight. + +I did a video recently on electric start outboards that don't turn over, some of the concepts will probably be helpful to you: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1h-blqDm4U + +Stuart","Ayuh,... Take it back apart, 'n reset it to where it belongs..." +twin 115 four stroke engines only one has problem,"Time to check all electrical connections, ALL of them.","Time to check all electrical connections, ALL of them.","There is always a way,you just have to find te way." +"Hello my names garrett, +i have a 1998 yamaha 130hp v4 it has low hours. i went to start it today and it ran at idle for 10 mins then puddled out like there was bad gas, so i wetwent and bought new boat gas. Tried starting and it won't. I checked the arc on the spark plugs its not getting any. So i disconnected the main wiring harness running from the control handle/throttle/killswitch. And put a wire from the battery to the starter and tested the plugs they are getting arc now. But still will not start. I checked all the grounds, they are grounded. And i never do it but i even tried starting fluid and all last tempts and still no start. +Keep in mind i had this exact problem last year. I bought all new coils, a new cdi ignition, countless spark plugs. And all final attempts i took it to a mechanic. He fixed it but would not tell me what he did. + +Has any one had this problem, or know what to do? Im all confused cause the motors got lest than a 100hrs on it.",is there a difference in rpms when you jump from battery to starter?,is there a difference in rpms when you jump from battery to starter?,I would say there is still junk in the fuel system.---Keep flushing / cleaning until problem goes away. +"Hello my names garrett, +i have a 1998 yamaha 130hp v4 it has low hours. i went to start it today and it ran at idle for 10 mins then puddled out like there was bad gas, so i wetwent and bought new boat gas. Tried starting and it won't. I checked the arc on the spark plugs its not getting any. So i disconnected the main wiring harness running from the control handle/throttle/killswitch. And put a wire from the battery to the starter and tested the plugs they are getting arc now. But still will not start. I checked all the grounds, they are grounded. And i never do it but i even tried starting fluid and all last tempts and still no start. +Keep in mind i had this exact problem last year. I bought all new coils, a new cdi ignition, countless spark plugs. And all final attempts i took it to a mechanic. He fixed it but would not tell me what he did. + +Has any one had this problem, or know what to do? Im all confused cause the motors got lest than a 100hrs on it.",No it don't run. It just keeps turning over.,No it don't run. It just keeps turning over.,"No lubricant on the friction plate. + +I suspect the diaphragm is acting as a dashpot to slow down the rate of the carburetors closing. The SM describes how to adjust the diaphragm. If needed. If the motor does not stumble or die when you quickly retard the throttle to idle I would suspect that the diaphragm is adjusted and working correctly." +"I have a 1999 F9.9 Yamaha kicker motor with the 703 remote Throttle and electric Stsrt. Model ELRX. My boat is a 1997 17 ft. Starcraft Superfisherman 170. I troll a lot and I have been having lot of trouble keeping the motor at trolling speed. The motor runs fine for a while but always seems to lose or bleed off rpms to the point of stalling. Starts back up just fine , I am just getting tired of always working with the throttle to keep it up to speed. Any thoughts about this. I'm thinking either something with the throttle control or the linkage on the carb. + Can you help?","Well I finally figured out what was wrong with my 1999 Yamaha F9.9 kicker motor. I need to vent my fuel tank and after consulting a factory manual that I bought, I need to reset and readjust the Throttle cable and clean out the carb. Seems to be running just fine right now , I'm going out in the morning to check it out.","Well I finally figured out what was wrong with my 1999 Yamaha F9.9 kicker motor. I need to vent my fuel tank and after consulting a factory manual that I bought, I need to reset and readjust the Throttle cable and clean out the carb. Seems to be running just fine right now , I'm going out in the morning to check it out.","Need some more info. What type of anchor are you using, what type of bottom are you anchoring in and what scope is your rhode on?" +"I just changed the water pump impeller on my 2003 40hp TLRB 2-stroke outboard. Replaced all parts in the kit, no problems. Used ear muffs to test engine, and got intermittent strong stream, then weak to almost dripping stream, so I shut it down. Started back up and stream was ok. Took boat to the river today, started it and had very weak stream. I ran it for a minute an heat alarm sounded so I shut it down. Let it cool a bit, then cleaned telltale hole with wire, started and stream was strong. Ran boat 3 hours with no problems. Got home and put earmuffs on, weak stream again. Driving me crazy. I have pushed the wire up into the tube, but have not taken the tube apart under the cowlling, it just doesnt act like an obstruction. Any thoughts?",old impeller all there when you removed it?,old impeller all there when you removed it?,I will be headed to my electric motor guy this morning. But I was told that these little starters are magnets (or something) and not rebuildable. Will let you all know +"I just changed the water pump impeller on my 2003 40hp TLRB 2-stroke outboard. Replaced all parts in the kit, no problems. Used ear muffs to test engine, and got intermittent strong stream, then weak to almost dripping stream, so I shut it down. Started back up and stream was ok. Took boat to the river today, started it and had very weak stream. I ran it for a minute an heat alarm sounded so I shut it down. Let it cool a bit, then cleaned telltale hole with wire, started and stream was strong. Ran boat 3 hours with no problems. Got home and put earmuffs on, weak stream again. Driving me crazy. I have pushed the wire up into the tube, but have not taken the tube apart under the cowlling, it just doesnt act like an obstruction. Any thoughts?",if the tell tale stream is sometimes strong and the alarm goes off when it is not then the telltale is not your problem...you got an obstruction or something floating around in the cooling system it self.. as it is sooner or later you are going to lose a piston...i would do as Kom suggested...the alarm is telling you that you have a problem and its not one that will just go away... good luck...,if the tell tale stream is sometimes strong and the alarm goes off when it is not then the telltale is not your problem...you got an obstruction or something floating around in the cooling system it self.. as it is sooner or later you are going to lose a piston...i would do as Kom suggested...the alarm is telling you that you have a problem and its not one that will just go away... good luck...,"Simple Job. Get a complete pump kit w/housing. + +It never hurts to own a service manual." +"I just changed the water pump impeller on my 2003 40hp TLRB 2-stroke outboard. Replaced all parts in the kit, no problems. Used ear muffs to test engine, and got intermittent strong stream, then weak to almost dripping stream, so I shut it down. Started back up and stream was ok. Took boat to the river today, started it and had very weak stream. I ran it for a minute an heat alarm sounded so I shut it down. Let it cool a bit, then cleaned telltale hole with wire, started and stream was strong. Ran boat 3 hours with no problems. Got home and put earmuffs on, weak stream again. Driving me crazy. I have pushed the wire up into the tube, but have not taken the tube apart under the cowlling, it just doesnt act like an obstruction. Any thoughts?","papyson said: + + + + old impeller all there when you removed it? + +Click to expand... + + +I think that the answer to this question is important. Any missing bits of rubber from the old impeller can wind up getting caught in the cooling passages downstream and can block the water flow. If the old impeller was intact when removed, then something else is blocking the cooling passages.","papyson said: + + + + old impeller all there when you removed it? + +Click to expand... + + +I think that the answer to this question is important. Any missing bits of rubber from the old impeller can wind up getting caught in the cooling passages downstream and can block the water flow. If the old impeller was intact when removed, then something else is blocking the cooling passages.","I'm sorry about your boat. This is of course extremely unpleasant. That's why I don't want to buy my own boat because I don't like to do repairs and I understand that problems may arise with it. When I want to go out into the open ocean, I turn to miami boat rentals and choose a vessel that suits me in terms of technical parameters and appearance. I am sure that in such places the maintenance of yachts is carefully monitored and I am sure that I will not have any problems. Maybe you should think about it too?" +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you",Year and model Number of the engines please.,Year and model Number of the engines please.,"using outboards? + +minimizing the length of fuel hose used will let the fuel pump work easier.....when was the last time the fuel pumps were serviced?" +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","Sounds too slow. could be a lot of things though, so more info required. Does the boat live in the water or on a trailer?","Sounds too slow. could be a lot of things though, so more info required. Does the boat live in the water or on a trailer?","Yeah, I would replace that filter inside the VST along with the fuel filter that connects to the mechanical fuel pump. And I would definitely send in the injectors to be cleaned.. if there was dried gunk going to the electric pump, then the injectors are probably clogged. + +There might be another fuel/water separator filter in the bilge area, but not all boats have them." +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","Thank you everyone for your help. + +The boat is not much famous in your place, it is Gulf Craft fisherman 2400, weight is 2600lb, 25feet, v hull. + +Yes,it lives on salt water, I will get some more information about it after I receive it during this week. I had a test drive and this was my findings, maybe the hull has some algae. will inspect it more soon and update you.","Thank you everyone for your help. + +The boat is not much famous in your place, it is Gulf Craft fisherman 2400, weight is 2600lb, 25feet, v hull. + +Yes,it lives on salt water, I will get some more information about it after I receive it during this week. I had a test drive and this was my findings, maybe the hull has some algae. will inspect it more soon and update you.","jhopper said: + + + + i was wondering do you mix the gas where you put the gas nozzle in.? + +Click to expand... + + +Please explain again" +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","Gulf Craft from Dubai? I used to sell them a few years ago. Was out in an old clients GC WA31 a few days back. If it is a Dubai GC it is likely a balsa core hull, so shouldn't be overly heavy unless water logged from some damage etc. From memory the GC WA31 will do over 30knts with a pair of 115's, so your speed is well down as are your WOT rpms. Most likely cause is a dirty hull if it lives in salt water. Hull must be perfectly clean of growth and props/lowers must also be perfectly clean. It only takes a very small amount of marine growth to massively degrade performance.","Gulf Craft from Dubai? I used to sell them a few years ago. Was out in an old clients GC WA31 a few days back. If it is a Dubai GC it is likely a balsa core hull, so shouldn't be overly heavy unless water logged from some damage etc. From memory the GC WA31 will do over 30knts with a pair of 115's, so your speed is well down as are your WOT rpms. Most likely cause is a dirty hull if it lives in salt water. Hull must be perfectly clean of growth and props/lowers must also be perfectly clean. It only takes a very small amount of marine growth to massively degrade performance.","Two good sources of information on refurbishing and refinishing are on the websites of West Marine and Jamestown Distributors. + +For a non-skid deck coating, look into Kiwigrip. I've used it and I'm fairly pleased with the results. However, it is a pretty aggressive non-skid - i.e. it leaves a very rough surface. If you do a lot of barefootin', I wouldn't recommend it." +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","aliboy said: + + + + Gulf Craft from Dubai? I used to sell them a few years ago. Was out in an old clients GC WA31 a few days back. If it is a Dubai GC it is likely a balsa core hull, so shouldn't be overly heavy unless water logged from some damage etc. From memory the GC WA31 will do over 30knts with a pair of 115's, so your speed is well down as are your WOT rpms. Most likely cause is a dirty hull if it lives in salt water. Hull must be perfectly clean of growth and props/lowers must also be perfectly clean. It only takes a very small amount of marine growth to massively degrade performance. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi aliboy, this is a GC fisherman 2400, an old boat from 1996, yes the hull was dirty, now I am doing antifoiling and general maintenance, also propellers were bent. + +I will do another test this week after maintenance and registration completes + +Here are the photos attached + +Thank you","aliboy said: + + + + Gulf Craft from Dubai? I used to sell them a few years ago. Was out in an old clients GC WA31 a few days back. If it is a Dubai GC it is likely a balsa core hull, so shouldn't be overly heavy unless water logged from some damage etc. From memory the GC WA31 will do over 30knts with a pair of 115's, so your speed is well down as are your WOT rpms. Most likely cause is a dirty hull if it lives in salt water. Hull must be perfectly clean of growth and props/lowers must also be perfectly clean. It only takes a very small amount of marine growth to massively degrade performance. + +Click to expand... + + +Hi aliboy, this is a GC fisherman 2400, an old boat from 1996, yes the hull was dirty, now I am doing antifoiling and general maintenance, also propellers were bent. + +I will do another test this week after maintenance and registration completes + +Here are the photos attached + +Thank you","A hanging float could cause that, but I've never heard of that being a problem. I would replace the VST filter and the needle valve. If you find that the old filter looks fine when you remove it, then measure the fuel pressure within 3 seconds at key-on, and again after the engine starts. Those values should be somewhere around 45 and 38 psi respectively. If those aren't right, then check for leaks and check the pressure regulator (making sure the fuel pressure drops as you add vacuum pressure). It might be stuck." +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","mnakkach said: + + + + also propellers were bent. + +Click to expand... + + +How bad? You should consider getting them re-conditioned. Your RPM at WOT should be a lot higher than what you were seeing.","mnakkach said: + + + + also propellers were bent. + +Click to expand... + + +How bad? You should consider getting them re-conditioned. Your RPM at WOT should be a lot higher than what you were seeing.","What model motor? + +No one ever wants to state the model of the motor. Is this some sort of top secret information?" +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you",Thanks for the photos. With a bit of luck you will have fixed your problems with a clean hull and repaired props. Let us know how you get on please.,Thanks for the photos. With a bit of luck you will have fixed your problems with a clean hull and repaired props. Let us know how you get on please.,"Yes, there are four wires in the harness to the remote oil tank. One pair for the electric oil pump ground. The other pair for the sensor switch ground. + +The ground for the pump is apparently good since you say that when you apply that ground the pump runs. What is unknown is if the other ground for the sensor switch is reaching the CDI. + +The sensor switch is there to prevent the remote tank from running completely out of oil without the user knowing it. With sufficient oil in the tank the switch will be closed. Ground applied to the CDI. CDI will command automatic transfer of oil. Up until the point that the float switch drops to a low oil level. The switch then opens. No more ground to the CDI. Auto transfer function is terminated. When the main tank gets low (because no more auto transfer of oil) the alarm sounds. Assume there is no spare oil in the boat. The user can now force the pump to run pumping what oil remains in the remote tank to the main tank. He best start heading for home." +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","Engine maintenance is done, we went on test drive, max RPM was 4700, speed was 40km/h when propellers trim was completely down, we pushed it bit up and it made 50km/h at 5000rpm. + +The technician mentioned something about the fins, he thinks the boat will run faster without the fins and suggested to remove them. + +What do you say?","Engine maintenance is done, we went on test drive, max RPM was 4700, speed was 40km/h when propellers trim was completely down, we pushed it bit up and it made 50km/h at 5000rpm. + +The technician mentioned something about the fins, he thinks the boat will run faster without the fins and suggested to remove them. + +What do you say?","tilting the motor out a notch, will it in essence plane the boat level ? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Try each hole til ya find the one that works best,...." +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","Fins might be part of the problem, but I am not sure they will fix the problem when removed. With the engines vertical (parallel to the transom), how high is the cavitation plate when compared to the bottom of the hull directly in front of the engine? If the engines are set too low that could explain your speed issue and also why the fins were fitted in the first place.","Fins might be part of the problem, but I am not sure they will fix the problem when removed. With the engines vertical (parallel to the transom), how high is the cavitation plate when compared to the bottom of the hull directly in front of the engine? If the engines are set too low that could explain your speed issue and also why the fins were fitted in the first place.","interesting, so i guess ill put a drain hole in the lowest point as RW recommended. thanks guys" +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","The fins will definitely take away from your top end. kimcrwbr1 is correct, you will want to see 5500rpm. Reinstall the missing trim tab on the SB engine, take off the fins and retest.","The fins will definitely take away from your top end. kimcrwbr1 is correct, you will want to see 5500rpm. Reinstall the missing trim tab on the SB engine, take off the fins and retest.","Today, I took the gear case off to change the impeller, and so had the opportunity to deal with the speedo clog from the top (the hose nipple) all the way to the intake hole in the gearcase. +The hose nipple is plastic, so I could not remove it. I took a welding wire like 1/16” and fashioned a drill and hammered the end like a flat head screw driver and gave it a point and drilled from the top down and horizontal at the intake hole in the front of the gear case. It took like 2 hours of work, and the compressor would not push the gunk out. I then put Ospho down the top with another 1/16” welding wire, it made a paste out of what was left and I had the keep drilling and taking it out and cleaning the wire every time and little by little the stoppage was removed till the compressor finally blew through. Then I put a straw and sprayed Isoprpyl Alcohol through it to clean it and then more compressed air. The job is done! +ANSWER TO MY QUESTION ON THIS THREAD: : the vertical depth from the tip of the hose nipple to where it hits bottom is 24.5cm . The horizontal depth of the gearcase intake hole is 3.4cm. (I was short by like 2 inches on the vertical hole the last time, and that was where the clog was.)" +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","Thank you everyone for trying to help, i have taken some pictures today after moving the trim down to full. Hope this help...","Thank you everyone for trying to help, i have taken some pictures today after moving the trim down to full. Hope this help...","I would do a leak-down test on all cylinders. Seems like the head gasket is still leaking, so there might be some internal damage that you didn't notice when you changed the gasket previously." +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","Hard to see from the pictures, but the engines could be one hole to low. Hold a straight bit of wood or a long ruler etc along the hull (fore and aft direction) and check where that 'hits' the engine. It should be on, or below, the cavitation plate for most boats. Engine needs to be 'vertical' with the cavitation plate parallel to the hull bottom (it is trimmed under a little too far in the pictures).","Hard to see from the pictures, but the engines could be one hole to low. Hold a straight bit of wood or a long ruler etc along the hull (fore and aft direction) and check where that 'hits' the engine. It should be on, or below, the cavitation plate for most boats. Engine needs to be 'vertical' with the cavitation plate parallel to the hull bottom (it is trimmed under a little too far in the pictures).","boscoe said: + + + + There is no lock or brake inherent in the motor. I would suspect that the rings are corroded to the cylinder walls. + +Just to make sure that it is not something within the lower unit however I would remove the lower unit and then see if the flywheel can be rotated. + +Click to expand... + + +Boscoe, thanks for confirming that there is no lock or brake. + +I personally find it strange that the pistons move 1cm up/down. Surely the rings would not have that much 'play' in the piston, or do you think the rings can ""move"" that much whilst corroded in the cylinder? + +I'll take the lower part off, just to make sure nothing is blocking the shaft. + +Thanks." +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","Ok, will remove the fins and keep changing the trim angle till I find the best point. will do the test by next week.","Ok, will remove the fins and keep changing the trim angle till I find the best point. will do the test by next week.","The label on the bracket looks like this picture. Disregard the red arrow. You'll notice letters after the horsepower number. These letters indicate the model of your 40hp. Just knowing the serial number will not get you to know what model it is. I believe the ""P"" you mentioned in your last post indicates a model year of 1983, but I'm not positive. If you can, take a picture of your label and post it here. On the opposite bracket is sometimes a label indicating manufactured date. Look for this label as well." +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + The fins will definitely take away from your top end. kimcrwbr1 is correct, you will want to see 5500rpm. Reinstall the missing trim tab on the SB engine, take off the fins and retest. + +Click to expand... + + +Dear Doscksidemarineservices, please explain what do you mean by ""Reinstall the missing trim tab on the SB engine""?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + The fins will definitely take away from your top end. kimcrwbr1 is correct, you will want to see 5500rpm. Reinstall the missing trim tab on the SB engine, take off the fins and retest. + +Click to expand... + + +Dear Doscksidemarineservices, please explain what do you mean by ""Reinstall the missing trim tab on the SB engine""?",I was wondering if there is a way I could pump in some type of resin. I would have no problem drilling a few holes and pumping something in. I just don't know what is available. I do know it is a balsa core. I'll have to check to see if I can get to it from the back side although some spots may still be hard to reach. +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","I have removed the fins and tried without, no difference on speed, still max was 50km/h at 5k rpm max.Not sure if I will put them back or not.","I have removed the fins and tried without, no difference on speed, still max was 50km/h at 5k rpm max.Not sure if I will put them back or not.","Had a look at Boatinfo, no good. Need diagram how to conect to gauges and key. there are 9 wires from engine and 5 fron key." +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","You should still put a straight edge on the hull as I suggested above. If the engines are mounted one hole too low that will affect your speed and max rpms. The other way to check is to get the boat running in flat water at 4000rpm - 4200rpm and see whether the cavitation plate is just skimming the surface of the water. If it is, that is about right, but if it is under the water surface your engines are too low. + +Assuming that this is a balsa core hull like the GC's I have dealt with, you should also 'tap test' the hull bottom to check for moisture in the core. You can do this using the back of a screwdriver handle or (best) a small hammer to go around the hull hitting it hard enough for the hammer to bounce a little. Good hull areas will make a 'sharp' sound and water logged areas will make a 'dull' sound. Water in a balsa core could give you lower performance as well as being a safety issue due to reduced strength in the hull.","You should still put a straight edge on the hull as I suggested above. If the engines are mounted one hole too low that will affect your speed and max rpms. The other way to check is to get the boat running in flat water at 4000rpm - 4200rpm and see whether the cavitation plate is just skimming the surface of the water. If it is, that is about right, but if it is under the water surface your engines are too low. + +Assuming that this is a balsa core hull like the GC's I have dealt with, you should also 'tap test' the hull bottom to check for moisture in the core. You can do this using the back of a screwdriver handle or (best) a small hammer to go around the hull hitting it hard enough for the hammer to bounce a little. Good hull areas will make a 'sharp' sound and water logged areas will make a 'dull' sound. Water in a balsa core could give you lower performance as well as being a safety issue due to reduced strength in the hull.",Or just check the throttle switch contact points. Carbon build up on the points will cause intermittent issues w/continuity. +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","I have placed the bar and found it touching the cavitation plate, I took a thick screwdriver and tried tapping, i heard tak tak, tog tog and tob tob on other places . I don't understand if this is normal or not, i asked my maintenance shop who serviced my boat earlier and said the boat is clean, no moisture inside.","I have placed the bar and found it touching the cavitation plate, I took a thick screwdriver and tried tapping, i heard tak tak, tog tog and tob tob on other places . I don't understand if this is normal or not, i asked my maintenance shop who serviced my boat earlier and said the boat is clean, no moisture inside.",The markings on the fuse holders indicate the the maximum load for that particular type of fuse holder. The correct fuse for each circuit is determined by the load it carries. +"Hello, + +I am new this forum, I lately purchased a used boat, it is 24ft fishing boat, 2400LB without engines, it has 2 Yamaha 115hp Enduro twin engines, at full speed 4500rpm it was able to reach only 24miles per hour (40kmh). + +Is this normal? is there a kind of calculator to know the approx. speed based on engine HP and boat size? + +Thank you","https://www.enoclubricants.com/Products/PDS/Automotive - ENOC/2 T OILS/Protec 2T Super Outboard.pdf + +Aliboy, if you are living in UAE you should be able to help me on this. please check the below image and let me know if this is ok for my 2 stroke enduro engine + +Also i found another oil from enoc which should be mixed at 100:1 pls check the above URL lin","https://www.enoclubricants.com/Products/PDS/Automotive - ENOC/2 T OILS/Protec 2T Super Outboard.pdf + +Aliboy, if you are living in UAE you should be able to help me on this. please check the below image and let me know if this is ok for my 2 stroke enduro engine + +Also i found another oil from enoc which should be mixed at 100:1 pls check the above URL lin","Guys, can anyone tell me where the Choke Solenoid is supose too get electricity from? +i followed the wiriing and found that it got it from the starter relay. is that correct? because it only gets electricity a short while, while im using the starter too start the engien, shouldnt it get power all the time?" +"I am at my wits end. I purchased this boat around the middle of November 2014. As a precautionary measure I replaced the Prop, changed the oil, replace the water pump (impeller) and changed the oil in the Lower Unit. When I purchased it, it started right up and seem to run ok. I took it to the water last week for the first time and it would not accelerate. It would start up and idle even though it was a rough idle it would idle. If I put it in gear and ease forward on the throttle it would go, but very, very slow. If I increased the throttle it would not respond it would only get worse. I put a new kit in the carburetor but that did not help. I took the carburetor off and cleaned it again and still not change. I checked the spark plugs and they seem to be wet with excess gas. So I thought it might be a fire problem. I pulled off the top Plug Coil wire and there was not change in the engine, it was just like that cylinder wasn't being used. Then I pulled of the bottom Plug Coil wire and the engine died. I thought it might have been the Coil at fault, (possibly the ECM) didn't want to think about that, so I purchased a new Coil and it still does the same thing. I don't know what else to do right now. I need some expert advice. The engine is a: F25ELRY. VIN # 65WL300904. Please help me if you can. I will greatly appreciate it.","Compression test ?------------Does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" inch or better ?","Compression test ?------------Does spark jump a gap of 3/8"" inch or better ?","Thanks Racerone. I did pull the plug later that day, did not see and slivers or shavings on the magnet. I decided to go ahead and change the oil. I swept the drain pan with a stronger magnet and again did not see any shavings. Still stumped lol." +"I am at my wits end. I purchased this boat around the middle of November 2014. As a precautionary measure I replaced the Prop, changed the oil, replace the water pump (impeller) and changed the oil in the Lower Unit. When I purchased it, it started right up and seem to run ok. I took it to the water last week for the first time and it would not accelerate. It would start up and idle even though it was a rough idle it would idle. If I put it in gear and ease forward on the throttle it would go, but very, very slow. If I increased the throttle it would not respond it would only get worse. I put a new kit in the carburetor but that did not help. I took the carburetor off and cleaned it again and still not change. I checked the spark plugs and they seem to be wet with excess gas. So I thought it might be a fire problem. I pulled off the top Plug Coil wire and there was not change in the engine, it was just like that cylinder wasn't being used. Then I pulled of the bottom Plug Coil wire and the engine died. I thought it might have been the Coil at fault, (possibly the ECM) didn't want to think about that, so I purchased a new Coil and it still does the same thing. I don't know what else to do right now. I need some expert advice. The engine is a: F25ELRY. VIN # 65WL300904. Please help me if you can. I will greatly appreciate it.","I put a spark gap tester on the top plug and I could not see a spark on the top plug. It was day and hard to see. But on the no. 2 plug if I adjusted the gap more than 3/8 inches and try to start it, it would not start. The top plug wire didn't make any difference. It would not start if the bottom plug wire was disconnected.","I put a spark gap tester on the top plug and I could not see a spark on the top plug. It was day and hard to see. But on the no. 2 plug if I adjusted the gap more than 3/8 inches and try to start it, it would not start. The top plug wire didn't make any difference. It would not start if the bottom plug wire was disconnected.","No idea how to upload pictures to this forum. I get a ""uploading pictures"" message and then nothing. Frustrating." +"I am at my wits end. I purchased this boat around the middle of November 2014. As a precautionary measure I replaced the Prop, changed the oil, replace the water pump (impeller) and changed the oil in the Lower Unit. When I purchased it, it started right up and seem to run ok. I took it to the water last week for the first time and it would not accelerate. It would start up and idle even though it was a rough idle it would idle. If I put it in gear and ease forward on the throttle it would go, but very, very slow. If I increased the throttle it would not respond it would only get worse. I put a new kit in the carburetor but that did not help. I took the carburetor off and cleaned it again and still not change. I checked the spark plugs and they seem to be wet with excess gas. So I thought it might be a fire problem. I pulled off the top Plug Coil wire and there was not change in the engine, it was just like that cylinder wasn't being used. Then I pulled of the bottom Plug Coil wire and the engine died. I thought it might have been the Coil at fault, (possibly the ECM) didn't want to think about that, so I purchased a new Coil and it still does the same thing. I don't know what else to do right now. I need some expert advice. The engine is a: F25ELRY. VIN # 65WL300904. Please help me if you can. I will greatly appreciate it.","I decided to go out and check the spark since it is night here in Navarre, FL. The top plug wire is firing across a 3/8 to 1/2"" gap. but the bottom plug wire only fires if the gap is 1/8 or less. What does that tell?","I decided to go out and check the spark since it is night here in Navarre, FL. The top plug wire is firing across a 3/8 to 1/2"" gap. but the bottom plug wire only fires if the gap is 1/8 or less. What does that tell?",Hi Thanks for your response-my engine ID starts 6BLK? +"I am at my wits end. I purchased this boat around the middle of November 2014. As a precautionary measure I replaced the Prop, changed the oil, replace the water pump (impeller) and changed the oil in the Lower Unit. When I purchased it, it started right up and seem to run ok. I took it to the water last week for the first time and it would not accelerate. It would start up and idle even though it was a rough idle it would idle. If I put it in gear and ease forward on the throttle it would go, but very, very slow. If I increased the throttle it would not respond it would only get worse. I put a new kit in the carburetor but that did not help. I took the carburetor off and cleaned it again and still not change. I checked the spark plugs and they seem to be wet with excess gas. So I thought it might be a fire problem. I pulled off the top Plug Coil wire and there was not change in the engine, it was just like that cylinder wasn't being used. Then I pulled of the bottom Plug Coil wire and the engine died. I thought it might have been the Coil at fault, (possibly the ECM) didn't want to think about that, so I purchased a new Coil and it still does the same thing. I don't know what else to do right now. I need some expert advice. The engine is a: F25ELRY. VIN # 65WL300904. Please help me if you can. I will greatly appreciate it.","I have been checking my engine while waiting to see if anyone had anything answers to the problem I described. I disconnected the ""Pulser Coil"" and it will not start up. I disconnected the ""Lightning Coil"" and no affect on the idling, it will start up and run the same. I disconnected the ""Power Coil"" and it will start up and run with out it being connected. Is there any way to check the ""CDI Unit""? I connected my digital Voltmeter across pins 9 & 10, turn the engine over and the display read OL (overload) on the AC Volt scale. What is the function of the various coils mentioned above. Does anyone have any knowledge of the F25ELRY engine??? Help please.","I have been checking my engine while waiting to see if anyone had anything answers to the problem I described. I disconnected the ""Pulser Coil"" and it will not start up. I disconnected the ""Lightning Coil"" and no affect on the idling, it will start up and run the same. I disconnected the ""Power Coil"" and it will start up and run with out it being connected. Is there any way to check the ""CDI Unit""? I connected my digital Voltmeter across pins 9 & 10, turn the engine over and the display read OL (overload) on the AC Volt scale. What is the function of the various coils mentioned above. Does anyone have any knowledge of the F25ELRY engine??? Help please.","maybe a can help, lets start by trying a different fuel tank remove fuel connectors place line directly in fuel tank connect directly to fuel filter at motor. remove clear bowl engine fuel filter ther should be a black o ring in top lip of filter bowl. push in choke while running under load does motor speed up if yes lean on fuel. modles with butterfly choke run under load with breather off make shure choke shutters are not sucking shut. as for the engine that shuts down and restarts after sitting you my not have a fuel problem your motor my be going into guardian.over heat/bad float snd in oil tank. has the warring buzzer been verified if your warning horn is bad one of thes conditions may be your problem without you knowing.when the motor experences one of these conditions you will have to turn off key to reset only then will you be able throttle past idle.as for possible ign switch this can be checked by simply unpluging larg black cannon connector located inside engine pan after motor has been started run boat normanly if problem goes away key and kill switch need inspecting.you will have to reconnect engine harness to shut down motor. good luck guys let us know what you find" +"I am at my wits end. I purchased this boat around the middle of November 2014. As a precautionary measure I replaced the Prop, changed the oil, replace the water pump (impeller) and changed the oil in the Lower Unit. When I purchased it, it started right up and seem to run ok. I took it to the water last week for the first time and it would not accelerate. It would start up and idle even though it was a rough idle it would idle. If I put it in gear and ease forward on the throttle it would go, but very, very slow. If I increased the throttle it would not respond it would only get worse. I put a new kit in the carburetor but that did not help. I took the carburetor off and cleaned it again and still not change. I checked the spark plugs and they seem to be wet with excess gas. So I thought it might be a fire problem. I pulled off the top Plug Coil wire and there was not change in the engine, it was just like that cylinder wasn't being used. Then I pulled of the bottom Plug Coil wire and the engine died. I thought it might have been the Coil at fault, (possibly the ECM) didn't want to think about that, so I purchased a new Coil and it still does the same thing. I don't know what else to do right now. I need some expert advice. The engine is a: F25ELRY. VIN # 65WL300904. Please help me if you can. I will greatly appreciate it.",Well since no one chimed in. I decided to keep at it. I found the problem. I swapped the spark plugs and had a different situation. I replaced the bad plug (with 2 new ones) and that did the trick. Thanks for all your help.,Well since no one chimed in. I decided to keep at it. I found the problem. I swapped the spark plugs and had a different situation. I replaced the bad plug (with 2 new ones) and that did the trick. Thanks for all your help.,"Hi sorry to butt in,any chance of a schematics for a two battery system Jeff in lay man's terms,so as even I can understand it." +"I just bought a boat with a '93 9.9 4 stroke. +starts ok, but dies... It'll run great if someone keeps squeezing the bulb +New to the forum... Thanks","You might want to check the fuel pump, there could be a hole in the diaphram.","You might want to check the fuel pump, there could be a hole in the diaphram.","If there is spark, yes you can rule out the kill switch." +can anyone explain the proper operation of these systems...thanks,Please describe the problem you are having.,Please describe the problem you are having.,"Welcome to the forum. + +I would start by finding out if 12 volts are available to the switch. With the switch in the off position probe for power on one of the connectors at a time. Make sure you have a good ground while you do this. Even if you find power on one connector, check the others. Then turn the switch on. Now you should have power on the connectors that supply your lights. + +Also, (you could try this first) if you haven't done so, take out each bulb and make sure the contacts on the bulb and in the socket are clean and shiny. While you're there, turn the switch on and (carefully!) test for power on the contacts in the socket. + +Dan" +I have a 2000 ox66 225 Vmax that is surging at high speeds and fuel blowing out exhaust at idle. It cuts in and out at full throttle then when I slow down you can see fuel blowing out the exhaust. Any ideas?,"One of the mechanical fuel pumps is leaking fuel into the pulse port. Leaving all the fuel lines connected, Loosen the two 10mm bolts, wiggle the pump to loosen it from the block and squeeze the fuel ball. If fuel leaks out of the back of the pump, replace them.","One of the mechanical fuel pumps is leaking fuel into the pulse port. Leaving all the fuel lines connected, Loosen the two 10mm bolts, wiggle the pump to loosen it from the block and squeeze the fuel ball. If fuel leaks out of the back of the pump, replace them.",New one to me. Let us know what you find. +I have a 2000 ox66 225 Vmax that is surging at high speeds and fuel blowing out exhaust at idle. It cuts in and out at full throttle then when I slow down you can see fuel blowing out the exhaust. Any ideas?,"I would also check compression and the ignition to make sure you are getting spark on all cylinders. A none firing cylinder (or low cyl pressure from bad rings) would just blow any unburnt fuel out the exhaust, as well as cause running issues. + +Along with what Chris mentioned, if you can't pump the primer bulb up till it's hard (engine off of course), that's a sign that something isn't sealing i.e., floats sticking, fuel pump diaphram leaking by internally or the fuel pump leaking thru the diaphram and into the pulse port. + +I had an old mercury do this one time and you could pump the primer bulb and hear fuel flowing into the engine. It was the fuel pump diaphram leaking into the pulse port and filling up the engine.","I would also check compression and the ignition to make sure you are getting spark on all cylinders. A none firing cylinder (or low cyl pressure from bad rings) would just blow any unburnt fuel out the exhaust, as well as cause running issues. + +Along with what Chris mentioned, if you can't pump the primer bulb up till it's hard (engine off of course), that's a sign that something isn't sealing i.e., floats sticking, fuel pump diaphram leaking by internally or the fuel pump leaking thru the diaphram and into the pulse port. + +I had an old mercury do this one time and you could pump the primer bulb and hear fuel flowing into the engine. It was the fuel pump diaphram leaking into the pulse port and filling up the engine.","johnnygjr said: + + + + deepsea,I was referring clayster to look in manual for ideas on his issue,I was not indicating there was any pressure relief valves in my post on that engine. Sorry for the confusion. + +Click to expand... + + +No worries. I personally don't think there is any ""pressure relief valve"" on that engine. I'm betting it has a small pressure release port drilled in each cylinder near the main exhaust ports. Those small ports serve to reduce compression pressure at lower turnover/cranking RPM and provide some relief for easier pull starting. If it was an old engine and he got it to fire and it smoked alot perhaps he brioke lose some carbon that caused one or more of those ports that may have been 80 or 90% clogged to clog 100%. I looked at the schematics and didn't see any ports drawn on them from the angle of the schematic but that doesn't mean they aren't there. I recommend he contact Sim Yamaha and ask of that engine has pressure relief ports in addition to the main exhaust ports before wrenching that far into it to see for himself... Then again, if he has the time there's no better way to figure out an engien than to start taking it apart!" +I have a 2000 ox66 225 Vmax that is surging at high speeds and fuel blowing out exhaust at idle. It cuts in and out at full throttle then when I slow down you can see fuel blowing out the exhaust. Any ideas?,i checked and two of the mechanical fuel pumps were leaking. Went a head and replaced all three since i had it apart. went and did a test run yesterday and it was a lot better but still cutting out(surging) at lower speeds(3500 rpm's). Have to work until Thursday so I'll have to wait until then to do anymore troubleshooting. Want to say thanks for the help though.,i checked and two of the mechanical fuel pumps were leaking. Went a head and replaced all three since i had it apart. went and did a test run yesterday and it was a lot better but still cutting out(surging) at lower speeds(3500 rpm's). Have to work until Thursday so I'll have to wait until then to do anymore troubleshooting. Want to say thanks for the help though.,"Chris the motor is a 1995 model. The model # is 130TX T. Thank you. +Vearl" +I have a 2000 ox66 225 Vmax that is surging at high speeds and fuel blowing out exhaust at idle. It cuts in and out at full throttle then when I slow down you can see fuel blowing out the exhaust. Any ideas?,i checked and two of the mechanical fuel pumps were leaking. Went a head and replaced all three since i had it apart. went and did a test run yesterday and it was a lot better but still cutting out(surging) at lower speeds(3500 rpm's). Have to work until Thursday so I'll have to wait until then to do anymore troubleshooting. Want to say thanks for the help though.​,i checked and two of the mechanical fuel pumps were leaking. Went a head and replaced all three since i had it apart. went and did a test run yesterday and it was a lot better but still cutting out(surging) at lower speeds(3500 rpm's). Have to work until Thursday so I'll have to wait until then to do anymore troubleshooting. Want to say thanks for the help though.​,"Disconnect the leads from heater terminals and check resistance between element terminals. There should be some resistance (ohms) there, not much, but some. Resistance increases as elements heat up. Then check each terminal to the casing. There sould be VERY HIGH resistance there, if not infinity (or over a meg). If either of these are not true, element is toast. May be hard to get a new one, but very easy to replace. +Thanks, I'll check that out. + + Always make sure the Klixon (little round thermal safety shut off clamped to the tank with 2 wires on it) is in good shape. If any doubt, replace it. They are cheap +Thanks again. I was thinking of checking that hi-temp shutoff (Klixon?) the thermostats (There might be two, an upper and a lower?) and the heating element when I go out again. Sure wish I was more knowlegable about a multimeter. I have studied lots of sites and still am not real sure I have it right. +Well, I'll write down what I come up with when I go out again I guess. + +(I was careful to have the water full-no air pockets- before I turned it on)" +I have a 2000 ox66 225 Vmax that is surging at high speeds and fuel blowing out exhaust at idle. It cuts in and out at full throttle then when I slow down you can see fuel blowing out the exhaust. Any ideas?,Had a friend look at it and found that the port side head gasket was blown.,Had a friend look at it and found that the port side head gasket was blown.,"If your going to pull it to clean it Replace it, Why are you pulling it in the first place? A code come up?" +I have a 2000 ox66 225 Vmax that is surging at high speeds and fuel blowing out exhaust at idle. It cuts in and out at full throttle then when I slow down you can see fuel blowing out the exhaust. Any ideas?,How did he determine that?,How did he determine that?,Noninterference. +I have a 2000 ox66 225 Vmax that is surging at high speeds and fuel blowing out exhaust at idle. It cuts in and out at full throttle then when I slow down you can see fuel blowing out the exhaust. Any ideas?,not sure i will have to ask him.,not sure i will have to ask him.,"Trouble with an impact driver is that the part to which the screw is attached could be damaged. The shaft could very well be bent from the force of the driver. Plus, I don't think that the shaft is solid enough for the driver to work. + +Red lock tite is just my guess." +"Good day to all on the forum and a happy and prosperous 2015 ! + +My 1999 Yamaha 130 BETO has had minor problems in the past. Fuel pump diaphram, timing etc. +I acquired the Yamaha workshop manual and set it up according to factory specs. (Carbs, Timing etc.) +It starts and runs runs fine now. Fuel consumption is quite good, little or no smoke. +I use the boat about twice a month in a fresh water river. + +I have just one question... + +At WOT (wide open throttle), it goes fine. 80 kilometers per hour at 5,600 revs. +From idle and in gear, if I open the throttle fairly quickly to take off. It has a slight hesitation (no misfire), before the full power comes in, and then it takes off like a rocket. +If I open the throttle normally, it goes fine. + +My question is, is this normal or is there a setting not quite right somewhere? +The boat is a fiberglass Challenger 16ft mono hull. 13 X 19 stainless propeller. +Fuel is 93 octane unleaded (no ethenol), oil is Fuchs TCW-3 Outboard. +Any comments or assistance would be greatly appreciated. + +Thanks - Dennis.","Dennis, You stated you set it up according to the manual, carbs/timing. +Do you mean or did you perform the sync n link according to the manual? It's a process of setting your throttle cable, carb linkage and timing linkage correctly.","Dennis, You stated you set it up according to the manual, carbs/timing. +Do you mean or did you perform the sync n link according to the manual? It's a process of setting your throttle cable, carb linkage and timing linkage correctly.","Oil stored in the oil reservoir is mechanically driven into the manifold. Oil is not delivered anywhere else. So you either have a leak coming from the tank or one or more of the hoses delivering oil to the manifold. + +The other causes could be a faulty oil check valve or the oil pump is not metered to spec, either of which causes excess oil to enter the manifold. When the engine is off and tilted up, normally the back pressure in the oil hose is held in check by the check valves. If a check valve is bad any pressure in the hose will cause oil to flow into manifold, excess oil. Depending on the tilt angle of engine, this excess oil flows out of carb throat and drips down into lower cowling, lower cowling into mid section and out where you've witnessed. + +To figure out where the cause of the leak/unchecked flow of oil, I'd first refer to your service manual on how to verify the oil pump is to spec. Then give a good cleaning/wipe down to oil tank, hoses, manifold. Run engine to normal operating temp, then maybe a few minutes more. Shut down, tilt engine up and watch for leaking oil. If you have a silencer over carbs, remove it before tilting engine up so you can see the carb throats. If you see oil dripping out of throat, one of the oil check valves is bad." +"Good day to all on the forum and a happy and prosperous 2015 ! + +My 1999 Yamaha 130 BETO has had minor problems in the past. Fuel pump diaphram, timing etc. +I acquired the Yamaha workshop manual and set it up according to factory specs. (Carbs, Timing etc.) +It starts and runs runs fine now. Fuel consumption is quite good, little or no smoke. +I use the boat about twice a month in a fresh water river. + +I have just one question... + +At WOT (wide open throttle), it goes fine. 80 kilometers per hour at 5,600 revs. +From idle and in gear, if I open the throttle fairly quickly to take off. It has a slight hesitation (no misfire), before the full power comes in, and then it takes off like a rocket. +If I open the throttle normally, it goes fine. + +My question is, is this normal or is there a setting not quite right somewhere? +The boat is a fiberglass Challenger 16ft mono hull. 13 X 19 stainless propeller. +Fuel is 93 octane unleaded (no ethenol), oil is Fuchs TCW-3 Outboard. +Any comments or assistance would be greatly appreciated. + +Thanks - Dennis.",Check your timing adjustment again. To set up the timing correctly you will need a dial indicator. When all is done these engines run better on 87 or 89 octane fuel.,Check your timing adjustment again. To set up the timing correctly you will need a dial indicator. When all is done these engines run better on 87 or 89 octane fuel.,The system is self purging. +"Good day to all on the forum and a happy and prosperous 2015 ! + +My 1999 Yamaha 130 BETO has had minor problems in the past. Fuel pump diaphram, timing etc. +I acquired the Yamaha workshop manual and set it up according to factory specs. (Carbs, Timing etc.) +It starts and runs runs fine now. Fuel consumption is quite good, little or no smoke. +I use the boat about twice a month in a fresh water river. + +I have just one question... + +At WOT (wide open throttle), it goes fine. 80 kilometers per hour at 5,600 revs. +From idle and in gear, if I open the throttle fairly quickly to take off. It has a slight hesitation (no misfire), before the full power comes in, and then it takes off like a rocket. +If I open the throttle normally, it goes fine. + +My question is, is this normal or is there a setting not quite right somewhere? +The boat is a fiberglass Challenger 16ft mono hull. 13 X 19 stainless propeller. +Fuel is 93 octane unleaded (no ethenol), oil is Fuchs TCW-3 Outboard. +Any comments or assistance would be greatly appreciated. + +Thanks - Dennis.","Hi Greg and Chris, +Thank you so much for your prompt reply! - It really is appreciated! +I did do the whole setup according to the manual from the dial gauge set up, sync and link, throttle cable, right down to idling adjustment and idle mixture screws at 9/10ths out from fully closed. +I set according to the measurements given in the manual. My one drawback is that here in good old South Africa, only 93 and 95 octane fuel is available. The river that we boat on is 5,000 feet above sea level. +I understand the motor is a 2 stroke and will be a bit rough, but from idle (750 rpm), up to about 1500 rpm the motor is rough although all cylinders are firing. After that it is smooth as a four stroke! +I am going to go through the settings again just to make sure I got it right. +Thanks again for your interest and advice. +Kind Regards, +Dennis.","Hi Greg and Chris, +Thank you so much for your prompt reply! - It really is appreciated! +I did do the whole setup according to the manual from the dial gauge set up, sync and link, throttle cable, right down to idling adjustment and idle mixture screws at 9/10ths out from fully closed. +I set according to the measurements given in the manual. My one drawback is that here in good old South Africa, only 93 and 95 octane fuel is available. The river that we boat on is 5,000 feet above sea level. +I understand the motor is a 2 stroke and will be a bit rough, but from idle (750 rpm), up to about 1500 rpm the motor is rough although all cylinders are firing. After that it is smooth as a four stroke! +I am going to go through the settings again just to make sure I got it right. +Thanks again for your interest and advice. +Kind Regards, +Dennis.","Almost every trailer bearing, race and seal have a manufacture's initials and a number stamped on it. Most any auto or marine parts store can match them up. However, when I deal with bearings, I usually use NAPA." +"Good day to all on the forum and a happy and prosperous 2015 ! + +My 1999 Yamaha 130 BETO has had minor problems in the past. Fuel pump diaphram, timing etc. +I acquired the Yamaha workshop manual and set it up according to factory specs. (Carbs, Timing etc.) +It starts and runs runs fine now. Fuel consumption is quite good, little or no smoke. +I use the boat about twice a month in a fresh water river. + +I have just one question... + +At WOT (wide open throttle), it goes fine. 80 kilometers per hour at 5,600 revs. +From idle and in gear, if I open the throttle fairly quickly to take off. It has a slight hesitation (no misfire), before the full power comes in, and then it takes off like a rocket. +If I open the throttle normally, it goes fine. + +My question is, is this normal or is there a setting not quite right somewhere? +The boat is a fiberglass Challenger 16ft mono hull. 13 X 19 stainless propeller. +Fuel is 93 octane unleaded (no ethenol), oil is Fuchs TCW-3 Outboard. +Any comments or assistance would be greatly appreciated. + +Thanks - Dennis.",Did you pull the carbs and give then a thorough cleaning? Paying attention to the Idle Jet in the bottom of the fuel bowl.,Did you pull the carbs and give then a thorough cleaning? Paying attention to the Idle Jet in the bottom of the fuel bowl.,"deepsea,I was referring clayster to look in manual for ideas on his issue,I was not indicating there was any pressure relief valves in my post on that engine. Sorry for the confusion." +"Good day to all on the forum and a happy and prosperous 2015 ! + +My 1999 Yamaha 130 BETO has had minor problems in the past. Fuel pump diaphram, timing etc. +I acquired the Yamaha workshop manual and set it up according to factory specs. (Carbs, Timing etc.) +It starts and runs runs fine now. Fuel consumption is quite good, little or no smoke. +I use the boat about twice a month in a fresh water river. + +I have just one question... + +At WOT (wide open throttle), it goes fine. 80 kilometers per hour at 5,600 revs. +From idle and in gear, if I open the throttle fairly quickly to take off. It has a slight hesitation (no misfire), before the full power comes in, and then it takes off like a rocket. +If I open the throttle normally, it goes fine. + +My question is, is this normal or is there a setting not quite right somewhere? +The boat is a fiberglass Challenger 16ft mono hull. 13 X 19 stainless propeller. +Fuel is 93 octane unleaded (no ethenol), oil is Fuchs TCW-3 Outboard. +Any comments or assistance would be greatly appreciated. + +Thanks - Dennis.","Hi Chris, +Thanks for the reply! Good point! I did take the carbs off and clean them some time back, but as you have mentioned there may be some gunk that has gotten through in the meantime. I'll strip the carbs again when I redo the timing etc, and check the Idle Jets. Thanks Chris, I'll let you know the results once everything is done and I've tried it out on the water. - May take a while but I'll post the results on the forum. +Thanks again . +Kind Regards, +Dennis.","Hi Chris, +Thanks for the reply! Good point! I did take the carbs off and clean them some time back, but as you have mentioned there may be some gunk that has gotten through in the meantime. I'll strip the carbs again when I redo the timing etc, and check the Idle Jets. Thanks Chris, I'll let you know the results once everything is done and I've tried it out on the water. - May take a while but I'll post the results on the forum. +Thanks again . +Kind Regards, +Dennis.","Sorry about multiple posts, but I am researching this on the fly. I see that there are many threads over a lot of years on this topic and the bottom line is that certain of the yamaha models( I am new to the brand) have rectifiers only and no regulator. Is there typically a plug in yamaha rectifier/regulator that can solve this problem or do we need to go aftermarket? I am also getting the impression that for most of the time we just get away with it. Shame to find out that we cannot always get away with it when some electronics is fried." +"I recently got my step dads boat when he passed away. it has a 40 horse yamaha that did not pump water. I bought a new impeller and installed it,and it still does not pump water. Any advice would be greatly appreciated","1. When you say it doesn't pump, do you mean it is over heating or are you relying on water coming from the pee hole? +Those pee holes clog real easy with insects and pushing a piece of stiff wire or metal cloths hanger in it with engine running in/on water will clear out the hole. + +2. Was the impeller you removed missing any pieces? If so, a piece may have lodged into the water tube? + +Otherwise: + +You may need to remove the lower unit, and while lowering it, look up where the water pump cover is to see if the water tube was in the top of the water pump casing. Some engines are difficult to keep the tube aligned when pushing the lower unit up. Sometimes people don't notice the tube isn't going into the pump.","1. When you say it doesn't pump, do you mean it is over heating or are you relying on water coming from the pee hole? +Those pee holes clog real easy with insects and pushing a piece of stiff wire or metal cloths hanger in it with engine running in/on water will clear out the hole. + +2. Was the impeller you removed missing any pieces? If so, a piece may have lodged into the water tube? + +Otherwise: + +You may need to remove the lower unit, and while lowering it, look up where the water pump cover is to see if the water tube was in the top of the water pump casing. Some engines are difficult to keep the tube aligned when pushing the lower unit up. Sometimes people don't notice the tube isn't going into the pump.",thanks +"Hello, i currently have a small yamaha 15hp outboard, I think its a 15d , looks about 20years old , the problem is Iam trying to remove rhe lower leg to change the impeller but it won't budge, I have disconected the shift linkage and removed the four bolts , doesn't appear to be anymore bolts but it will not budge !!!! Am I missing something??? Thanks","Under the trim tab usually is another bolt. You can look at diagrams here to see all the bolts, just look up your engine.","Under the trim tab usually is another bolt. You can look at diagrams here to see all the bolts, just look up your engine.",Do you have any pics of the work in progress. The maaco in my area doesn't do much to impress me on their paint jobs. +My 2003 15 HP stalls after 3 seconds of running. It is a electric start. It has brand new gas. I see the fuel flowing through the fuel filter. What could the problem be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.,"The carb may be overfilling causing the engine to flood, or the engine needs a sync n link. +Does it die or Is it hard to start after it stalls after those 3 seconds? + +Unless you know how it's done, you will need a manual to do it correctly and/or troubleshoot the problem.","The carb may be overfilling causing the engine to flood, or the engine needs a sync n link. +Does it die or Is it hard to start after it stalls after those 3 seconds? + +Unless you know how it's done, you will need a manual to do it correctly and/or troubleshoot the problem.","No. In the video I was turning the prop and you could hear it ""ticking"". Didn't help that I could tell." +"I have twin 2005 Yamaha z150txrc HPDI engines. I had the oil tank low level alarm go off on the right engine. Checking the engine tank I found it below or at the low level line.Filled it manual and it was OK until it got down to the same level. Checked and found the pump on the main tank works oK when the switch on the engine is worked.So why working the switch it pumps oil to the engine tank but when the engine running it does not? Any help on this problem would sure be appreciated. Thanks, Bob",Got some info on that it might be the sensor on the oil tank on the engine. Checked it out per M/M using a ohm meter checked OK. Also compared it to the left engine it was the same. Swapped sensor with the left engine .Went fishing all day and had no alarm .Checked mid day and both oil tanks on the engine read full. At the end of the day both main oil tanks were down showing they were being pumped. So I guess it was PFM .Disconnected the harness and reconnected it I might have cleared a problem. If the problem swapped to the left engine than I know I have a intermittent sensor. Thank to all the helped me on this.,Got some info on that it might be the sensor on the oil tank on the engine. Checked it out per M/M using a ohm meter checked OK. Also compared it to the left engine it was the same. Swapped sensor with the left engine .Went fishing all day and had no alarm .Checked mid day and both oil tanks on the engine read full. At the end of the day both main oil tanks were down showing they were being pumped. So I guess it was PFM .Disconnected the harness and reconnected it I might have cleared a problem. If the problem swapped to the left engine than I know I have a intermittent sensor. Thank to all the helped me on this.,"Sh1t just sometimes happens. Parts fail internally and smoke gets out. + +There is little external that I can think of that will cause an internal failure of a CDI. + +You can find them used on Ebay for much less than the price of a new one. + +Would not hurt to inspect all electrical connections to make sure every thing is clean and tight." +"I have twin 2005 Yamaha z150txrc HPDI engines. I had the oil tank low level alarm go off on the right engine. Checking the engine tank I found it below or at the low level line.Filled it manual and it was OK until it got down to the same level. Checked and found the pump on the main tank works oK when the switch on the engine is worked.So why working the switch it pumps oil to the engine tank but when the engine running it does not? Any help on this problem would sure be appreciated. Thanks, Bob",Sounds like you nailed it! Was a good idea to swap to see if problem moved as well. Sounds like you just had a bad connection or loose wire.,Sounds like you nailed it! Was a good idea to swap to see if problem moved as well. Sounds like you just had a bad connection or loose wire.,"if it is real teak, only use oil - no varnish....whether to sand or not is a function of the wood's surface condition...if it is gouged up, some sanding may be in order....I believe they have a few chemical washes and they will help to lift the dirt out. Biggest tip - buy from a single OEM to ensure compatibility and FOLLOW the directions....dock buddies may be able to make recommendations for local sources; if not, visit a few and ask questions....deal with somebody who you are comfortable with...many times, that local knowledge is worth paying for." +"I have twin 2005 Yamaha z150txrc HPDI engines. I had the oil tank low level alarm go off on the right engine. Checking the engine tank I found it below or at the low level line.Filled it manual and it was OK until it got down to the same level. Checked and found the pump on the main tank works oK when the switch on the engine is worked.So why working the switch it pumps oil to the engine tank but when the engine running it does not? Any help on this problem would sure be appreciated. Thanks, Bob",Sometimes the sensor float just hangs up.,Sometimes the sensor float just hangs up.,"Do you have a yamaha tach gauge? If so, the gauge has visual alerts for low oil and high temp. Look at gauge. If you don't have gauge then it's a guessing game. Easiest to to first rule out is oil....verify main tank is full. If it is then safe to assume it's the high temp alarm. Question is, is the alarm tripping because of overheating or because of bad thermosensor. Test sensors." +Maybe I should not get involved but I was wondering if it's possible to add a engine temp gage . Is there away to tap into the t temp. sensor on the engine somewhere else ? My engine's are Yamaha 2004 150 Z150TXRC HPDI,"No, you can't tap into the temp sensor. Those sensors work on resistance and only turn the alarm on when the engine gets to a certain temp. +A temp gauge is installed where it's sensor is in contact with the water as it leaves the engine. It has a bimetallic sensor on the end. +Some engines have a blank plastic plug on top of the exhaust box next to where the pee tube comes out. +If you find it, remove it and run the engine with water on or in the water to verify it is in fact the right plug. +If it is you can install the temp gauge senser there and run it to your gauge on the dash.","No, you can't tap into the temp sensor. Those sensors work on resistance and only turn the alarm on when the engine gets to a certain temp. +A temp gauge is installed where it's sensor is in contact with the water as it leaves the engine. It has a bimetallic sensor on the end. +Some engines have a blank plastic plug on top of the exhaust box next to where the pee tube comes out. +If you find it, remove it and run the engine with water on or in the water to verify it is in fact the right plug. +If it is you can install the temp gauge senser there and run it to your gauge on the dash.","Is hundreds of dollar cost effective? + +The 2002 F80 and F100 share a number of common parts. But a few differences. Find out the differences and add up the total for parts. + +Could be just jets. Could be carburetors. + +Then add labour." +Maybe I should not get involved but I was wondering if it's possible to add a engine temp gage . Is there away to tap into the t temp. sensor on the engine somewhere else ? My engine's are Yamaha 2004 150 Z150TXRC HPDI,"If you could find a temp gauge that reads off resistance instead of actual water temp (and of course it would need to be the same resistance specs as the installed temp alarm) it should read the resistance of the temp alarms and work ok. +I would probably install a water pressure gauge instead of a temp sensor. The pressure gauge is going to read regardless of water temp of course, where as a temp sensor is going to read at different temps while the engine runs depending on how warm/cold the surrounding water is. The pressure gauge would give you a better indication of the status of your water pump after you run the engine enough with a new water pump so you can see the ""normal"" max water pressure. + +The draw back to a water pressure gauge is this; some impellers are small diameter (which mean they work by building up pressure) whereas other impellers are large diameter (which mean the work on volume of water). My 99 Yamaha SX150TXRX OX-66 uses the larger diameter impeller so of course it is designed to produce more volume of water vice higher pressure of water. Eitherway, you would be able to gain a sense of how the water pump is working.","If you could find a temp gauge that reads off resistance instead of actual water temp (and of course it would need to be the same resistance specs as the installed temp alarm) it should read the resistance of the temp alarms and work ok. +I would probably install a water pressure gauge instead of a temp sensor. The pressure gauge is going to read regardless of water temp of course, where as a temp sensor is going to read at different temps while the engine runs depending on how warm/cold the surrounding water is. The pressure gauge would give you a better indication of the status of your water pump after you run the engine enough with a new water pump so you can see the ""normal"" max water pressure. + +The draw back to a water pressure gauge is this; some impellers are small diameter (which mean they work by building up pressure) whereas other impellers are large diameter (which mean the work on volume of water). My 99 Yamaha SX150TXRX OX-66 uses the larger diameter impeller so of course it is designed to produce more volume of water vice higher pressure of water. Eitherway, you would be able to gain a sense of how the water pump is working.",I wouldn't recommend anything in the engine compartment that's not designed to go in an engine compartment. Just not worth the risk. +"Hey guys, my customer had a reverse problem (no reverse). He said he threw it in reverse with high rpms taking it off the trailer. The shifter is the old style with no Neutral lockout button. Anyway, I looked at it today. Nothing visually wrong. Shift cable is moving thru the full range etc. +Put it in fwd gear (engine off) turned prop counter and it engaged like normal. + +The first time I put it in reverse and turned the prop, there was nothing? It just free spun. After shifting a few times it went into reverse and engaged, but I could turn it thru the gear (meaning the clutch dog wasn't holding it appears). + +I brought the lower unit home and took the prop shaft out. The FWD teeth on the clutch dog are normal. +What I cannot remember now is, are the reverse teeth on the clutch dog the same as the fwd teeth OR are they suppose to be more squared? + +If the squared teeth are normal, any ideas why it will break thru when I turn the prop by hand in reverse? Whether I turned it clock or counterclockwise, it did the same thing. + +Here's the pictures of it.","Surprised no one could answer this. +Anyway, after inspecting everything I put it all back together. What I noticed after it was all together, the end play on the prop shaft was less than it was when I first took it apart. +Somehow the bell housing locknut wasn't tightened enough so it was allowing the reverse gear to be too far aft which didn't allow the clutch dog to engage fully. + +All together and now I can't turn the prop shaft in reverse without turning the drive shaft. Will install back on engine in a few hours.","Surprised no one could answer this. +Anyway, after inspecting everything I put it all back together. What I noticed after it was all together, the end play on the prop shaft was less than it was when I first took it apart. +Somehow the bell housing locknut wasn't tightened enough so it was allowing the reverse gear to be too far aft which didn't allow the clutch dog to engage fully. + +All together and now I can't turn the prop shaft in reverse without turning the drive shaft. Will install back on engine in a few hours.","I am going to tag on here as ask - what about the new plastic material that is used for window framing, garage door frames, etc? I've seen a couple brands out there. I am bringing a 1989 bass boat back to life and the only really soft area of the floor is the driver / passenger area and the space between where the drain is. I am thinking of just cutting a template and putting down the plastic. My dad said he did this on his old Bayliner a few years ago. Pros/Cons? I was originally thinking of sheet aluminum but its really expensive." +"Good evening,I have to decide which of these motors to purchase.The specs are the same, difference in HP I suppose is due to difference in the injector pump.If I don't need top end but more concerned with just thrust(heavy loads) and being kind to the block by propping down.My question is why would I spend more for the 250,am I wasting my money they are basically the same motor.Any input would be appreciated thanks.",What kind of boat is this going on?,What kind of boat is this going on?,"am_dew said: + + + + Thanks Gary. I went ahead and bought a Costco group 24 marine deep cycle. $68 out the door. I know Costco generally sells quality stuff and they back their products well so all in all, it was hopefully a wise purchase. + +Click to expand... + + +The ones with the blue top? I have ran two of these for the last 4+ years without one single hiccup." +"Good evening,I have to decide which of these motors to purchase.The specs are the same, difference in HP I suppose is due to difference in the injector pump.If I don't need top end but more concerned with just thrust(heavy loads) and being kind to the block by propping down.My question is why would I spend more for the 250,am I wasting my money they are basically the same motor.Any input would be appreciated thanks.","Thanks for replying,I'm replacing a 250 Saltwater Series engine on a 30 ft flat bottom aluminum boat.Empty it can scoot along at 30 or so(pretty good) under load of approx. an extra 5,000 lbs it can go maybe 12knots at 2,500 rpm( from experience and propping down as much as possible I don't push it under load as I will blow the block.It's kind of a compromise when I was experimenting with props.I'm hoping the 4 stroke and gear ratios on 200 or 250 will be a little easier on the block with this program with that said I did okay with the old 250 Saltwater Series,but what do you think 200 or 250 when considering this application or?","Thanks for replying,I'm replacing a 250 Saltwater Series engine on a 30 ft flat bottom aluminum boat.Empty it can scoot along at 30 or so(pretty good) under load of approx. an extra 5,000 lbs it can go maybe 12knots at 2,500 rpm( from experience and propping down as much as possible I don't push it under load as I will blow the block.It's kind of a compromise when I was experimenting with props.I'm hoping the 4 stroke and gear ratios on 200 or 250 will be a little easier on the block with this program with that said I did okay with the old 250 Saltwater Series,but what do you think 200 or 250 when considering this application or?","vlotta said: + + + + Thank you for helping out but these are surge brakes, no power to the breaking system unless I'm in reverse and then it is only to activate the reverse solenoid + +The fix for this was to elevate the hitch so that the boat would need more forward force to activate the surge brakes. I was informed this is common with people pulling boats that are level with diesel engines to much back pressure (acts like i'm braking) when off the gas causes the boat to push forward and apply the surge brakes slightly, just enough to heat the breaks up by not to slow the truck down this is why i didn't notice them dragging only indication was the heat when I got to the ramp. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thank you for posting. I have learned something new." +"Every time I start the engine for the first time it cranks right up. After shutting down a bit and trying to refire the engine, the starter motor engages and then locks up with the flywheeel as if the batteries didn't have enough juice. I turn the key off, try again and it fires. I replaced the starter motor, same problem. I installed new batteries, same problem. All the connections look clean and tight. I'm baffled. + +Any ideas ??? + +Thanks in advance, + +Nick","see what the voltage is on the positive post on the starter with the key turned to start and the motor trying to go.it should be at least 10.5.....if it is not then you have a voltage drop going back to the battery..compare the voltage reading between the battery positive post and the starter post while trying to turn the engine...you could also have a drop fromn the negative side to the motor ground... +how long has the motor been running after you crank it and run it the first time?is the motor getting too hot? +you mentioned new batteries(i take that as more than one)...how are they hooked up and to what?","see what the voltage is on the positive post on the starter with the key turned to start and the motor trying to go.it should be at least 10.5.....if it is not then you have a voltage drop going back to the battery..compare the voltage reading between the battery positive post and the starter post while trying to turn the engine...you could also have a drop fromn the negative side to the motor ground... +how long has the motor been running after you crank it and run it the first time?is the motor getting too hot? +you mentioned new batteries(i take that as more than one)...how are they hooked up and to what?","Thanks for Your Replys, First to answer tonyaus Replys, I have changed my add on NAPA 12 Micron water seperator, as well as a inline filter after that and before the fuel gets to the motor, when i changed the spin on water seperator filter i dumped it and there was no trash of water, i had added a double dose od marine sta bel to the fresh fuel, motor does not miss like a plug problem, it will rev as hig as i dare try when out of gear, get under way, runs fine at 1000, and fine for a time at 2, but get on it and before it gets to 3 it will bog down, slow down and it will recover, and as long as you dont push it to hard runs fine, but keep giving it trottel and at some point it runs out of gas, + +DWard i was never able to locate a cross over from the Standard Schrader connection on my furl gauge to the Small Schrader connection on the Fuel Rail of my motor, i would still love to fine on, but i went ahead and pull the rig out of the water while i had help, i tried Snap On and a number of other Tool Companys, i may need to try a Yamaha Dealer, the one in this part of the Country don want any one to be able to do their own work, if you know where i can get a crossover like i need please let me know, i plan to order all my parts on line before i tare into it so once i open it up i can replace the filters and o rings and what not and close it back up, +DWard do i have to drop that lower motor clowing in order to get the intake manifold out? + +Thanks Again +LakeRat1" +"Every time I start the engine for the first time it cranks right up. After shutting down a bit and trying to refire the engine, the starter motor engages and then locks up with the flywheeel as if the batteries didn't have enough juice. I turn the key off, try again and it fires. I replaced the starter motor, same problem. I installed new batteries, same problem. All the connections look clean and tight. I'm baffled. + +Any ideas ??? + +Thanks in advance, + +Nick","Papyson, Thanks for your attention. The engine, I don't believe is getting hot. Good water stream, I change the impeller every year. The time seems variable. I'll motor up to a flat after sometimes a 15-20 minute run. Shut down, pole for an hour then try to start. I do not run this motor hard. I have two batteries / Interstate marine purchased exactly a year ago. They are maintained year round on a Minn Kota dual bank battery charger. The second battery is for a trolling motor only.","Papyson, Thanks for your attention. The engine, I don't believe is getting hot. Good water stream, I change the impeller every year. The time seems variable. I'll motor up to a flat after sometimes a 15-20 minute run. Shut down, pole for an hour then try to start. I do not run this motor hard. I have two batteries / Interstate marine purchased exactly a year ago. They are maintained year round on a Minn Kota dual bank battery charger. The second battery is for a trolling motor only.","Go to an RV dealer and buy a jug of "" tank fresh "" after you do the bleach treatment to kill any live growth in your system. Instructions are on the tank fresh container, works great, leaves your water system like new." +"Every time I start the engine for the first time it cranks right up. After shutting down a bit and trying to refire the engine, the starter motor engages and then locks up with the flywheeel as if the batteries didn't have enough juice. I turn the key off, try again and it fires. I replaced the starter motor, same problem. I installed new batteries, same problem. All the connections look clean and tight. I'm baffled. + +Any ideas ??? + +Thanks in advance, + +Nick","I would check the cable terminals on both main power cables. A failing connection due to corrosion under the heatshrink or just a bad connection could cause what you are getting. Since it may be heat related I would start by very carefully inspecting the -ve cable connection at the engine. Even if it looks OK, pull it off, check the cable to lug connection, clean the area where it contacts the block and bolt it all up again.","I would check the cable terminals on both main power cables. A failing connection due to corrosion under the heatshrink or just a bad connection could cause what you are getting. Since it may be heat related I would start by very carefully inspecting the -ve cable connection at the engine. Even if it looks OK, pull it off, check the cable to lug connection, clean the area where it contacts the block and bolt it all up again.",What difference is there between a 74 and 76 Merc 7.5 ??----Post some details. +"Every time I start the engine for the first time it cranks right up. After shutting down a bit and trying to refire the engine, the starter motor engages and then locks up with the flywheeel as if the batteries didn't have enough juice. I turn the key off, try again and it fires. I replaced the starter motor, same problem. I installed new batteries, same problem. All the connections look clean and tight. I'm baffled. + +Any ideas ??? + +Thanks in advance, + +Nick","aliboy, Thanks, Will do. Keep you guys posted.","aliboy, Thanks, Will do. Keep you guys posted.","Agree totally with Makomark on wire and terminals. + +I would start with the battery wiring. If you are using a dual battery setup. install a top quality four position battery switch that allows you to select individually battery 1 (typically for starting & running the motor), battery 2 (for all other equipment), both batteries for charging and battery backup, and OFF. Diagrams for that wiring setup are all over the Internet. If you are doing only a one battery setup wire in a single cut-off switch that's easy to access so that when that switch is in the ""off"" position, you are absolutely sure everything on the boat is off EXCEPT the bilge pump, which should be wired directly to the battery. Use top quality marine cables from the battery to the engine and make sure the connections are clean and tight. Do not use wing nuts for the connections to the battery terminals, but rather good quality SS lock nuts. + +If you plan on installing a bilge pump, I would do that next. The bilge pump should be wired such that the float switch will turn it on independently of the manual switch. Again, diagrams for that set up are all over the internet. + +Next, wire in the harness from the engine to your console key switch and instruments. Depending on what engine you have and its age, and the engine-dependent instruments you will be running, it may be worthwhile to purchase that harness from the engine manufacturer. Otherwise make your own. Use different color wiring for each engine circuit and document what color does what, and be consistent with your color codes. Replicate the NMEA wiring standards as close as possible to save future headaches. You can purchase roles of different colored marine wire from West Marine or Jamestown Distributors. + +Finally, assess what other power draws you will need to wire up - running lights, VHF, fish finder, GPS, etc. For those, add up the total max draw in amps. Then from standard wiring charts, figure what gauge wire will be needed to handle all of that. For example, if you are pulling 20 amps, and your running the wiring ten feet from the battery, you should use 10 gauge (AWG) wire. Then, figure out how many fused switches you will need on the accessories bus, and install the bus in your console. Install two heavy duty connectors near the house battery - one for positive feed, and one for negative feed. From those run your 10 AWG (or whatever you calculated) to the accessories bus in your console area. It may be a good idea to install another cut off switch on the positive lead to the accessories bus. Then wire in each of your accessories." +"My 2002? Yamaha 2 stroke 50 TLRA will not rev over 2800 rpm underload. +Problem occurred after 6 mo. Period of non use. Prior to running, I drained old treated fuelfrom tank and refilled with new 91 octane and topped off oil tank. Cranked up in driveway on hose, thenlaunched, warmed up and ran at 4400 rpms for approx 20 minutes. Returning to launch at 4400 rpm and openthrottle to 5200 for 30 seconds and engine lost power/dropped rpms to approx2800. Will only rev to 2800-3000 under load, but will rev higher in nuetral or reverse. +So far, I have conducted basic checks to include: +· Checked compression cold – 110 all cylinders; +· Installed new NGK plugs – some oil on old plugsbut not fouled; +· Checked fuel filter on engine – no water; +· Changed spin on water sep. canister filter; +· Checked/siphoned 6 gallon tank for water – no wateror trash; +· Ran in slip in forward – opened throttle butmotor only revs to 2800; even stopped and started disconnecting plugs and couldnot tell a bad plug/ignition coil; +· Check throttle linkage for full range of motionwith full throttle; +· Checked spark with inline spark checker-crankedand lighted bulb all 3 plugs. +I was relieved to see good compression, motor starts andrestarts quickly. Revs past 2800 in neutraland reverse. +I have not pulled carbs down since condition as filters wereclean but have cleaned carbs within last year. Also use non ethanol treated fuel. Any suggestions? I’m thinking abad coil not firing under load?",Have you checked the fuel pump?,Have you checked the fuel pump?,"racerone said: + + + + Normal-----What is your motor doing / not doing ? + +Click to expand... + + +Not starting. No misfires just nothing after a pull." +"My 2002? Yamaha 2 stroke 50 TLRA will not rev over 2800 rpm underload. +Problem occurred after 6 mo. Period of non use. Prior to running, I drained old treated fuelfrom tank and refilled with new 91 octane and topped off oil tank. Cranked up in driveway on hose, thenlaunched, warmed up and ran at 4400 rpms for approx 20 minutes. Returning to launch at 4400 rpm and openthrottle to 5200 for 30 seconds and engine lost power/dropped rpms to approx2800. Will only rev to 2800-3000 under load, but will rev higher in nuetral or reverse. +So far, I have conducted basic checks to include: +· Checked compression cold – 110 all cylinders; +· Installed new NGK plugs – some oil on old plugsbut not fouled; +· Checked fuel filter on engine – no water; +· Changed spin on water sep. canister filter; +· Checked/siphoned 6 gallon tank for water – no wateror trash; +· Ran in slip in forward – opened throttle butmotor only revs to 2800; even stopped and started disconnecting plugs and couldnot tell a bad plug/ignition coil; +· Check throttle linkage for full range of motionwith full throttle; +· Checked spark with inline spark checker-crankedand lighted bulb all 3 plugs. +I was relieved to see good compression, motor starts andrestarts quickly. Revs past 2800 in neutraland reverse. +I have not pulled carbs down since condition as filters wereclean but have cleaned carbs within last year. Also use non ethanol treated fuel. Any suggestions? I’m thinking abad coil not firing under load?","aliboy said: + + + + Have you checked the fuel pump? + +Click to expand... + + +Good idea. I cleaning carbs now and soaking jets in carb clean. + +Will report back, Thanks aliboy","aliboy said: + + + + Have you checked the fuel pump? + +Click to expand... + + +Good idea. I cleaning carbs now and soaking jets in carb clean. + +Will report back, Thanks aliboy",There is an issue with the J Blocks (part of the smart Craft wiring). There is an updated data cable that goes between the engines for this issue. +"My 2002? Yamaha 2 stroke 50 TLRA will not rev over 2800 rpm underload. +Problem occurred after 6 mo. Period of non use. Prior to running, I drained old treated fuelfrom tank and refilled with new 91 octane and topped off oil tank. Cranked up in driveway on hose, thenlaunched, warmed up and ran at 4400 rpms for approx 20 minutes. Returning to launch at 4400 rpm and openthrottle to 5200 for 30 seconds and engine lost power/dropped rpms to approx2800. Will only rev to 2800-3000 under load, but will rev higher in nuetral or reverse. +So far, I have conducted basic checks to include: +· Checked compression cold – 110 all cylinders; +· Installed new NGK plugs – some oil on old plugsbut not fouled; +· Checked fuel filter on engine – no water; +· Changed spin on water sep. canister filter; +· Checked/siphoned 6 gallon tank for water – no wateror trash; +· Ran in slip in forward – opened throttle butmotor only revs to 2800; even stopped and started disconnecting plugs and couldnot tell a bad plug/ignition coil; +· Check throttle linkage for full range of motionwith full throttle; +· Checked spark with inline spark checker-crankedand lighted bulb all 3 plugs. +I was relieved to see good compression, motor starts andrestarts quickly. Revs past 2800 in neutraland reverse. +I have not pulled carbs down since condition as filters wereclean but have cleaned carbs within last year. Also use non ethanol treated fuel. Any suggestions? I’m thinking abad coil not firing under load?","aliboy said: + + + + Have you checked the fuel pump? + +Click to expand... + + +Fuel Pump is original 2002 pump. Prior owner ran ethanol fuel. How do I check the pump? + +Also have changed small oil injection intake manifold hoses and would like to change the hoses between the tank and oil pump while I have the carbs off. Will I have to bleed the oil pump if I only remove/change the supply hose from tank? + +Thank you aliboy.","aliboy said: + + + + Have you checked the fuel pump? + +Click to expand... + + +Fuel Pump is original 2002 pump. Prior owner ran ethanol fuel. How do I check the pump? + +Also have changed small oil injection intake manifold hoses and would like to change the hoses between the tank and oil pump while I have the carbs off. Will I have to bleed the oil pump if I only remove/change the supply hose from tank? + +Thank you aliboy.",Thanks for the info. and i know about the marine alternator and will for sure get one. +"My 2002? Yamaha 2 stroke 50 TLRA will not rev over 2800 rpm underload. +Problem occurred after 6 mo. Period of non use. Prior to running, I drained old treated fuelfrom tank and refilled with new 91 octane and topped off oil tank. Cranked up in driveway on hose, thenlaunched, warmed up and ran at 4400 rpms for approx 20 minutes. Returning to launch at 4400 rpm and openthrottle to 5200 for 30 seconds and engine lost power/dropped rpms to approx2800. Will only rev to 2800-3000 under load, but will rev higher in nuetral or reverse. +So far, I have conducted basic checks to include: +· Checked compression cold – 110 all cylinders; +· Installed new NGK plugs – some oil on old plugsbut not fouled; +· Checked fuel filter on engine – no water; +· Changed spin on water sep. canister filter; +· Checked/siphoned 6 gallon tank for water – no wateror trash; +· Ran in slip in forward – opened throttle butmotor only revs to 2800; even stopped and started disconnecting plugs and couldnot tell a bad plug/ignition coil; +· Check throttle linkage for full range of motionwith full throttle; +· Checked spark with inline spark checker-crankedand lighted bulb all 3 plugs. +I was relieved to see good compression, motor starts andrestarts quickly. Revs past 2800 in neutraland reverse. +I have not pulled carbs down since condition as filters wereclean but have cleaned carbs within last year. Also use non ethanol treated fuel. Any suggestions? I’m thinking abad coil not firing under load?","Found sawdust looking crap in carb bowls; and disassembled fuel pump. FP diaphrams stiff but not torn. + +Jets and needles are getting brite & shiney in Berrymans Carb Soak. + +What about bleeding oil pump with new supply hose? Will run and udate post. + +Thanks","Found sawdust looking crap in carb bowls; and disassembled fuel pump. FP diaphrams stiff but not torn. + +Jets and needles are getting brite & shiney in Berrymans Carb Soak. + +What about bleeding oil pump with new supply hose? Will run and udate post. + +Thanks","What is it that you are trying to accomplish? + +What is the complete serial number of your motor?" +"My 2002? Yamaha 2 stroke 50 TLRA will not rev over 2800 rpm underload. +Problem occurred after 6 mo. Period of non use. Prior to running, I drained old treated fuelfrom tank and refilled with new 91 octane and topped off oil tank. Cranked up in driveway on hose, thenlaunched, warmed up and ran at 4400 rpms for approx 20 minutes. Returning to launch at 4400 rpm and openthrottle to 5200 for 30 seconds and engine lost power/dropped rpms to approx2800. Will only rev to 2800-3000 under load, but will rev higher in nuetral or reverse. +So far, I have conducted basic checks to include: +· Checked compression cold – 110 all cylinders; +· Installed new NGK plugs – some oil on old plugsbut not fouled; +· Checked fuel filter on engine – no water; +· Changed spin on water sep. canister filter; +· Checked/siphoned 6 gallon tank for water – no wateror trash; +· Ran in slip in forward – opened throttle butmotor only revs to 2800; even stopped and started disconnecting plugs and couldnot tell a bad plug/ignition coil; +· Check throttle linkage for full range of motionwith full throttle; +· Checked spark with inline spark checker-crankedand lighted bulb all 3 plugs. +I was relieved to see good compression, motor starts andrestarts quickly. Revs past 2800 in neutraland reverse. +I have not pulled carbs down since condition as filters wereclean but have cleaned carbs within last year. Also use non ethanol treated fuel. Any suggestions? I’m thinking abad coil not firing under load?","Not sure about the 50, but on the larger yamahas I run premix in the tank when first firing them up after playing with the oil system and then pull the oil tubes at the intake end to see if they are letting oil through with the engine running. The larger engines also have some type of check valves in the oil lines and don't easily self bleed until you pull the hose off the intake. Probably would be OK if run for a while on pre-mix, but I just pull the hoses and check each one to be sure.","Not sure about the 50, but on the larger yamahas I run premix in the tank when first firing them up after playing with the oil system and then pull the oil tubes at the intake end to see if they are letting oil through with the engine running. The larger engines also have some type of check valves in the oil lines and don't easily self bleed until you pull the hose off the intake. Probably would be OK if run for a while on pre-mix, but I just pull the hoses and check each one to be sure.","Patience is the key to working on old boat wiring...the first thing to determine is exactly what you have and how it is wired..especially if there has been additions to the original..make a little drawing of the wiring as you determine how its wired and make sure you understand it...a multi meter and ability to use it is another key point... if you don't understand how it is wired and replace all the switches etc and then have problems then you have another real mess on your hands...at this point you will HAVE to figure out what you got...keep in mind that you could also have bad components in an old boat and the switch and wiring for the device could be good..thats another area where the meter is required... + +most boats were built with wiring as an afterthought and the connections are crimped..they are notorious for corrosion and bad connections..also where the small connections on gauges and switches are made they just crimp the connectors on..with time and expansion and heat they become bad... there is nothing wrong with crimping if its done right with the proper tool and connectors but you will be lucky if that is the case.. + +when digging into the wiring under the console I would have the battery disconnected unless I was at the measuring voltage point.in the trouble shooting procedure.. + +keep in mind that if a good wire was used in the original wiring that the wires themselves are probably..... + + +good luck and try not too get frustrated..." +"My engine loses power, bottom left spark plug is wet, replaced it a couple of times and it runs for 5 minutes, loses power and spark plug is wet again..any ideas?",Wet with fuel or water?,Wet with fuel or water?,"I just re-read your OP. The problem with using your compressor is the air is not dried, notice how much moisture comes out when you purge the tank each day...you do purge it, right? +N is not super light, it’s close to normal “air”, so it won’t dissipate upwards as quickly as say helium or even propane. +I would have lots of holes drilled, to near the bottom of your transom. +You don’t need blasts of N, just a trickle, & it will move liquid or water vapour easier than ice. +Its used in tires not so much as it doesn’t change pressure with temperature,(it does), but it keeps moisture out, so you don’t get frost crystals & leaks in really cold weather, & prevents combustion on jet tires in case of hit brakes. +They use lots of it in the oil/gas industry, displaces moisture & prevents corrosion in empty pipes/vessels, along with lessening explosion hazard. We have onboard N generators that fill the jet fuel tanks as they’re emptied." +"I have a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB. + +When doing some testing the cylinders 1 & 2 read 1300 RPM, and cylinders 2 & 3 read 3600 RPM on a digital tach/timing light. +What does this mean or indicate? + +Ignition Coil 1 fires cylinders 1 and 4, while Ignition coil 2 fires cylinders 2 & 3. +The ignition coils check good (resistance values and Peak VDC input voltages are the same). +I get the same results when the coils are swapped. + +I understand its a waste-spark ignition system, but the crankshaft is turning at the same speed, so how is the RPM reading different?","Re: RPM on Cylinders 3 & 4 twice that on Cylinders 1 & 2 + +Sorry guys. + +Should have proof read my post. Title should say ""RPM on Cylinders 3 & 4 twice that on Cylinders 1 & 2"" + +Cylinders 1 & 2 read 1300 RPM - Cylinders 3 & 4 read 3600PM with a digital tach/timing light.","Re: RPM on Cylinders 3 & 4 twice that on Cylinders 1 & 2 + +Sorry guys. + +Should have proof read my post. Title should say ""RPM on Cylinders 3 & 4 twice that on Cylinders 1 & 2"" + +Cylinders 1 & 2 read 1300 RPM - Cylinders 3 & 4 read 3600PM with a digital tach/timing light.",I believe I have the same issue. I'd like to have a mechanics opinion before I have to buy another control box. +"I have a 26' Glacier Bay with two well maintained, under 1000 hrs Yamaha 150's. + +Each engine has its own battery and battery switch allowing each engine to start using battery one, two or both. + +Recently an issue has developed which I can't get my head around................ + +The starboard engine will start easily on battery one or two. The port engine will only start once the starboard engine is running and then only with its battery switch set to both. +Both battery switches are in good condition and working correctly. I have also swapped batteries around and even replaced them with new ones, but whatever I do the situation remains the same. + +I would very much appreciate others thoughts on this. + +Thanks",Had the same thing on a single. No start on one battery but both got it going. Turned out to be a bad ground wire. Check your isc valve as well. Might need a clean.,Had the same thing on a single. No start on one battery but both got it going. Turned out to be a bad ground wire. Check your isc valve as well. Might need a clean.,Got my motor back up and going. +"I have a 26' Glacier Bay with two well maintained, under 1000 hrs Yamaha 150's. + +Each engine has its own battery and battery switch allowing each engine to start using battery one, two or both. + +Recently an issue has developed which I can't get my head around................ + +The starboard engine will start easily on battery one or two. The port engine will only start once the starboard engine is running and then only with its battery switch set to both. +Both battery switches are in good condition and working correctly. I have also swapped batteries around and even replaced them with new ones, but whatever I do the situation remains the same. + +I would very much appreciate others thoughts on this. + +Thanks","Check the battery cables (+ve and -ve) going from the port battery to the port switch and engine. From what you have posted I suspect a bad cable end or connection.The cable ends may look OK, but they can corrode under the heat shrink and be bad even when looking OK. Try bending the cable at the heat shrink to see if one end bends more easily than the others. I would also take the -ve cable off the engine block and clean up the connection at that point. This is a reasonably common failure point on some Yamahas.","Check the battery cables (+ve and -ve) going from the port battery to the port switch and engine. From what you have posted I suspect a bad cable end or connection.The cable ends may look OK, but they can corrode under the heat shrink and be bad even when looking OK. Try bending the cable at the heat shrink to see if one end bends more easily than the others. I would also take the -ve cable off the engine block and clean up the connection at that point. This is a reasonably common failure point on some Yamahas.","Go to an RV dealer and buy a jug of "" tank fresh "" after you do the bleach treatment to kill any live growth in your system. Instructions are on the tank fresh container, works great, leaves your water system like new." +"I have a 26' Glacier Bay with two well maintained, under 1000 hrs Yamaha 150's. + +Each engine has its own battery and battery switch allowing each engine to start using battery one, two or both. + +Recently an issue has developed which I can't get my head around................ + +The starboard engine will start easily on battery one or two. The port engine will only start once the starboard engine is running and then only with its battery switch set to both. +Both battery switches are in good condition and working correctly. I have also swapped batteries around and even replaced them with new ones, but whatever I do the situation remains the same. + +I would very much appreciate others thoughts on this. + +Thanks",Much appreciate the input. I'll take a look and let you know.,Much appreciate the input. I'll take a look and let you know.,"makomark said: + + + + not exactly sure what you plan is based on your post.... if the mounting pad is solid, I'd leave it in place and cut some hole 'in front' of the mount's holes to add a washer and a locknut to secure the mount's bolts. If the pad is not solid, you'll have to replace it...it needs to be solid enough to hole the engine in place to maintain the engine's alignment relative to the gimbal bearing. On the foam, back in the 80's there were those that used foam and those that didn't and lots of changes. For the little bit of volume under the front mounting pad, it won't make any difference. if you do use any foam, make sure it is a 'closed cell' type so it doesn't absorb any water... + +Click to expand... + + I wasn't sure how the pad was constructed and I didn't want to cut out more than I had to. Yesterday, using a 3"" hole saw, I cut out around the mounting holes. It isn't as bad as I thought, so I'm going to soak it with cpes then fill the voids with epoxy. About an inch below the mounting pad, it looks like another layer of fiberglass, then below that is void. It looks like the previous owner used expanding foam to fill that area under the pad to keep bilge water out, but all it did is soak up the water." +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?",did you remove(back off) the big nut on the other sude if the tilt tube?,did you remove(back off) the big nut on the other sude if the tilt tube?,I believe that motor has both a low oil sensor switch and an over heat sensor. Check your oil level and make sure it's good. Then find the sensor and check the connections. Do the same for the overheat sensor. +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?",Yes. Lube nut on port side and retaining nut on stbd side both removed.,Yes. Lube nut on port side and retaining nut on stbd side both removed.,"I looked it up and it takes from 10-20V input power. So, I think I am safe. Whew! I just need to make sure I don't buy maintenance free batteries when I need to buy batteries." +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?",Beat the thing out. Forget about the block of wood. The cable will need to be replaced anyway. Just be careful not to mushroom the end so it will fit through the tilt tube.,Beat the thing out. Forget about the block of wood. The cable will need to be replaced anyway. Just be careful not to mushroom the end so it will fit through the tilt tube.,"Yeah I plan on pumping it out from here on out. I have changed oil on a bunch of stuff with aluminum pans but it sounds like these ones are really soft. I was just wanting to see if anyone else has used this spec before and ensure I didn’t already destroy the threads. I would imagine if they were gone my wrench wouldn’t have clicked. If this washer is indeed a crush washer like it looks like then I doubt any damage was done. + +Is the mity vac the way to go for an extractor or will the cheaper electric pumps off amazon hold up for a while?" +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?",Remove the tube from the motor.--------Split the tube with a grinder.-------------------Perhaps salvage the cable.------------Replace the tube and intall a steering cable ( new or existing ) into it.,Remove the tube from the motor.--------Split the tube with a grinder.-------------------Perhaps salvage the cable.------------Replace the tube and intall a steering cable ( new or existing ) into it.,having trouble loading pictures +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","DON'T hit the end of the rod with a hammer or it will NEVER come out. +How much heat? +A little propane torch might not be enough?","DON'T hit the end of the rod with a hammer or it will NEVER come out. +How much heat? +A little propane torch might not be enough?","OK so this is what I have found. + +After a couple days on a 2 amp trickle charger has made a big difference. I have had a battery maintainer on the battery off and on over the winter to keep it charged. Although it checked out with a load tester and had the power to start the engine, it is clear that it still needed a few days on charge before running the engine. The Alternator runs much cooler now. + +In addition, with the bad connection in the fuse block fixed and all contacts cleaned, the dash voltmeter reads far more accurately and the charging system dummy light doesn't stay on. The bad connection read 12.5 volts with the key off and 10.8 with the load of the key on. + +I have yet to take it out on the water to see how it performs, I will be sure to update after I do. + +Thanks again for all the help. Chawk_man, I will be sure to message you, a wiring diagram is always valuable. Thanks!" +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","I am not hitting it with the wood, I am holding a piece of wood against the end of the rod to prevent mushrooming it while hitting it with a 5 lb sledge. If I can get it out the cable is fine, I replaced it only a couple months ago. If I can't get it out then I will need to do what racerone describes, which is the big job I am trying to avoid. As for heat, yes I am using just a hand held propane torch with a friend hammering at the same time after soaking with PB Blaster. I also let out a string of four letter words at the top of my lungs, that did not work either.","I am not hitting it with the wood, I am holding a piece of wood against the end of the rod to prevent mushrooming it while hitting it with a 5 lb sledge. If I can get it out the cable is fine, I replaced it only a couple months ago. If I can't get it out then I will need to do what racerone describes, which is the big job I am trying to avoid. As for heat, yes I am using just a hand held propane torch with a friend hammering at the same time after soaking with PB Blaster. I also let out a string of four letter words at the top of my lungs, that did not work either.","ClassicAQ said: + + + +I'd say yamaha is spot on. Since you're familiar w/auto mechanics, if you pulled the transmission pan and found metal shavings bc the customer says they're experiencing transmission issues....same issue here. Plenty of used/rebuilt LUs on ebay/craigslist tho if he's looking to save $$$. + +Click to expand... + +I'd say you could be wrong. I would go so far to say that you are wrong. Not enough facts for you to know one way or the other." +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?",PS Thanks for all the suggestions thus far,PS Thanks for all the suggestions thus far,A big ----If -------------If you ran this motor with a defective water pump you may want to do a compression test before you spend any money on this motor. +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","One method that can free stuck bolts etc is to drill a hole (or holes) through the tube/casing etc into he stuck area and use that to insert penetrating oil. Let it soak, apply heat, cool, add more oil etc. Once it is free you can either fill up the holes with epoxy metal or thread the hole and insert a grub screw with Locktite as a hole filler. Maybe in your case even add an extra grease zerk.","One method that can free stuck bolts etc is to drill a hole (or holes) through the tube/casing etc into he stuck area and use that to insert penetrating oil. Let it soak, apply heat, cool, add more oil etc. Once it is free you can either fill up the holes with epoxy metal or thread the hole and insert a grub screw with Locktite as a hole filler. Maybe in your case even add an extra grease zerk.","The upper helm now turns but not sure if it is activating the PAS. I know that there is no electronics on the PAS so I assume there is a mechanical spring that activates the valve. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Hard to explain, But,.... + +Where the P/S part attaches to the normal manual steerin' system at the point they meet, there's a tiny shuttle-valve that applies power to the tiller,.... +As the cable pushes or pulls, the valve where they meet senses, 'n helps push or pull,... +It only moves a few thousandths of an inch, 'n happens extremely fast, so ya don't really feel it,..." +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","Most people use regular marine grease to lube the steering. +After a while it dries out and you get a stuck cable. +I use any kind of oil. +Even trans fluid works. +Clean the cable, extend it all the way and get all the gunk out.' +Clean the tube with a tube brush. Northern Tool has/had a good selection. +Then coat the cable with oil and reinstall. +Then as you use the boat, a can of WD or any spray lube will keep it free. +The same goes or the kingpin, Marine grease sets up and your fighting a hard turning motor. +I use a thin white lithium grease. I grease about every 3rd trip. +I had to add extra grease fittings because the previous owner didn't grease anything.","Most people use regular marine grease to lube the steering. +After a while it dries out and you get a stuck cable. +I use any kind of oil. +Even trans fluid works. +Clean the cable, extend it all the way and get all the gunk out.' +Clean the tube with a tube brush. Northern Tool has/had a good selection. +Then coat the cable with oil and reinstall. +Then as you use the boat, a can of WD or any spray lube will keep it free. +The same goes or the kingpin, Marine grease sets up and your fighting a hard turning motor. +I use a thin white lithium grease. I grease about every 3rd trip. +I had to add extra grease fittings because the previous owner didn't grease anything.","If you could find a temp gauge that reads off resistance instead of actual water temp (and of course it would need to be the same resistance specs as the installed temp alarm) it should read the resistance of the temp alarms and work ok. +I would probably install a water pressure gauge instead of a temp sensor. The pressure gauge is going to read regardless of water temp of course, where as a temp sensor is going to read at different temps while the engine runs depending on how warm/cold the surrounding water is. The pressure gauge would give you a better indication of the status of your water pump after you run the engine enough with a new water pump so you can see the ""normal"" max water pressure. + +The draw back to a water pressure gauge is this; some impellers are small diameter (which mean they work by building up pressure) whereas other impellers are large diameter (which mean the work on volume of water). My 99 Yamaha SX150TXRX OX-66 uses the larger diameter impeller so of course it is designed to produce more volume of water vice higher pressure of water. Eitherway, you would be able to gain a sense of how the water pump is working." +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","Thanks, Jerry. But the problem at this point is not that simple....I have a steering rod (the stainless part at the end of the cable) absolutely frozen solid in the tilt tube. PB Blaster, heat and hammering have not gotten it to budge. I am going to take aliboy's suggestion and drill a small hole in the steel tilt tube and spray the PB in that way to see if it will help free it up. If it works I will then drill the hole larger and tap it and install a zerk fitting to prevent this from happening in the future. I was a little reluctant to do this because I am concerned that when the bit pops through the tilt tube it will hit and damage the stainless rod, but at this point I have nothing to lose because it doesn't look like it will come out any other way. Will post an update afterward. Thanks to all!","Thanks, Jerry. But the problem at this point is not that simple....I have a steering rod (the stainless part at the end of the cable) absolutely frozen solid in the tilt tube. PB Blaster, heat and hammering have not gotten it to budge. I am going to take aliboy's suggestion and drill a small hole in the steel tilt tube and spray the PB in that way to see if it will help free it up. If it works I will then drill the hole larger and tap it and install a zerk fitting to prevent this from happening in the future. I was a little reluctant to do this because I am concerned that when the bit pops through the tilt tube it will hit and damage the stainless rod, but at this point I have nothing to lose because it doesn't look like it will come out any other way. Will post an update afterward. Thanks to all!",Thought I would post the eventual issue in case someone else is searching this. Turns out I had the gasket on the wrong side of the plate. Duh +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","Stop. The cable is trashed. Drilling holes is not going to get this apart. Cut the cable on the attaching side and bang it out the opposite way. If you cannot get it out, purchase a new tilt tube. Support the engine to unload the tube and feed the new one through. + +You can spray all the Blaster you want. You can heat it all you want. The dirt and grease on the steering cable had bound up in the tilt tube and wedged itself fast. + +If you are able to get this apart with out having to change the tilt tube, borrow a reem and clean the tube. See if you can get some 2-4-C grease from Mercury or Quick Silver.","Stop. The cable is trashed. Drilling holes is not going to get this apart. Cut the cable on the attaching side and bang it out the opposite way. If you cannot get it out, purchase a new tilt tube. Support the engine to unload the tube and feed the new one through. + +You can spray all the Blaster you want. You can heat it all you want. The dirt and grease on the steering cable had bound up in the tilt tube and wedged itself fast. + +If you are able to get this apart with out having to change the tilt tube, borrow a reem and clean the tube. See if you can get some 2-4-C grease from Mercury or Quick Silver.","Had a good trip from to Catalina Sunday. A little frustration at the launch ramp. Port motor started right up, that's the one that has the problems. Starboard wouldn't start, not even turn over. After cussing on it, and that didn't fix it, I took truck/boat to back end of launch area. Worked on it for almost 3 hours before I figured out one fo the two paraled batteries connections wasn't connected. My guess is that the mechanic had to take the battery set-up apart to get the new rigging harness and didn't but it back. Between that and me cleaning up all electrical connections, it was good to go. By then the wind/chop picked up so it was a good test. Had to adjuct friction of throttles on the water, which worked out okay as well. Hope the intermittent issue has been finally solved." +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","I'm not sure I have the knowledge or tools to replace the tube myself. On this engine (90 HP Yamaha) it appears that the tube is integral to the engine mounting bracket and the only way to replace it is to remove the engine entirely and replace the entire bracket. This is beyond my ability. But maybe I am not looking at it right. + +But it does make sense that the rod may come out the other way, so I guess it's time to sacrifice the cable, cut it off and bang in the other direction and hope that all I end up having to do is clean the tube and replace the steering cable.","I'm not sure I have the knowledge or tools to replace the tube myself. On this engine (90 HP Yamaha) it appears that the tube is integral to the engine mounting bracket and the only way to replace it is to remove the engine entirely and replace the entire bracket. This is beyond my ability. But maybe I am not looking at it right. + +But it does make sense that the rod may come out the other way, so I guess it's time to sacrifice the cable, cut it off and bang in the other direction and hope that all I end up having to do is clean the tube and replace the steering cable.","Is this a tiller motor or throttle control? + +best is to drop the lower unit, I bet u bent the shift shaft, if not it could have flattened your clutch dog" +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?",The nuts come off and the tube slides out. Very simple.,The nuts come off and the tube slides out. Very simple.,Ditto +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","So far everyone has advised using heat and brute impact force to free this and it hasn't worked, so lets go the other direction- use a large c-clamp and some ingenuity to apply direct force, and then freeze the tilt tube with Walters Cold Shock. allow a couple of minutes for the Cold Shock to fracture, and then assist the clamps' pressure with a good lick with your hammer.","So far everyone has advised using heat and brute impact force to free this and it hasn't worked, so lets go the other direction- use a large c-clamp and some ingenuity to apply direct force, and then freeze the tilt tube with Walters Cold Shock. allow a couple of minutes for the Cold Shock to fracture, and then assist the clamps' pressure with a good lick with your hammer.","The location of the Linkage nuts DOES make a difference. Not just in my experience, but as indicated by Leroy of Leroy’s Ramblings on reinstalling the lower unit on this motor. +In my experience, moving the linkage nuts Up caused the forward gear to engage earlier in moving the shift lever at the helm forward. Moving the nuts Down reversed this." +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?",it should not be this hard to remove if it was working a few weeks ago...its a good possibility that something bent the rod...if that happened then when you turned the steering you moved the bent part into the tube...and if thats the case the part that got bent was on the left hand side of the motor as looked at from the rear of the motor...then banging on it from that side forced the bent into a worse locked status...if thats the case then it will never come out banging on that same side..if thats the case then you gotta bang on from the other side...if that means cutting the cable then so be it...you probably looking at buying the whole thing anyway..,it should not be this hard to remove if it was working a few weeks ago...its a good possibility that something bent the rod...if that happened then when you turned the steering you moved the bent part into the tube...and if thats the case the part that got bent was on the left hand side of the motor as looked at from the rear of the motor...then banging on it from that side forced the bent into a worse locked status...if thats the case then it will never come out banging on that same side..if thats the case then you gotta bang on from the other side...if that means cutting the cable then so be it...you probably looking at buying the whole thing anyway..,You'll definitely want to be able to see through each jet after cleaning. Doesn't take much debris to clog their orifice. +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","Rod is not bent, boat has not moved since the last time the motor turned and it is under a canopy. I think it is just old dry grease mixed with a little dirt that has now rolled on itself and is wedged in there. pounding only making the wedge tighter as suggested by Chris at Dockside Marine. Regardless of the reason it seems unlikely that more force on the port side will move it out to starboard. Been busy with work so have not done anything since the last couple comments were posted but I am leaning towards cutting cable and trying to move it out the other way, maybe save the tube and replace only the cable. If not then the tilt tube also will be replaced. Will post the final when its done.","Rod is not bent, boat has not moved since the last time the motor turned and it is under a canopy. I think it is just old dry grease mixed with a little dirt that has now rolled on itself and is wedged in there. pounding only making the wedge tighter as suggested by Chris at Dockside Marine. Regardless of the reason it seems unlikely that more force on the port side will move it out to starboard. Been busy with work so have not done anything since the last couple comments were posted but I am leaning towards cutting cable and trying to move it out the other way, maybe save the tube and replace only the cable. If not then the tilt tube also will be replaced. Will post the final when its done.","Sanny - thanks for the recommendation, but a bit late. Ended up putting on 5 coats of high-end marine varnish. I cut the first coat with mineral spirits to get it to soak in better. It turned out well, but we'll see how long it holds up." +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Stop. The cable is trashed. Drilling holes is not going to get this apart. Cut the cable on the attaching side and bang it out the opposite way. If you cannot get it out, purchase a new tilt tube. Support the engine to unload the tube and feed the new one through. + +You can spray all the Blaster you want. You can heat it all you want. The dirt and grease on the steering cable had bound up in the tilt tube and wedged itself fast. + +If you are able to get this apart with out having to change the tilt tube, borrow a reem and clean the tube. See if you can get some 2-4-C grease from Mercury or Quick Silver. + +Click to expand... + + +;;;;;;;;","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Stop. The cable is trashed. Drilling holes is not going to get this apart. Cut the cable on the attaching side and bang it out the opposite way. If you cannot get it out, purchase a new tilt tube. Support the engine to unload the tube and feed the new one through. + +You can spray all the Blaster you want. You can heat it all you want. The dirt and grease on the steering cable had bound up in the tilt tube and wedged itself fast. + +If you are able to get this apart with out having to change the tilt tube, borrow a reem and clean the tube. See if you can get some 2-4-C grease from Mercury or Quick Silver. + +Click to expand... + + +;;;;;;;;",did they check the stator output?....it is probably a stator but it can be checked with the proper meter...you don't need the rectifier hooked up to run...it charges your battery...with a light load a good battery that is fully charged when you put the boat in the water has many engine starts in it if the engine starts correctly.. I think that what I would do with a 34 year old motor... +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","So after taking a Holiday break went back at the stuck steering rod issue. Decided there was nothing to lose by putting a pipe wrench on the end sticking out the port side (just starboard of where the steering arm connector from the motor attaches to the rod) since this region never gets drawn into the tube during normal operation anyway, and any teeth marks could be taken off with emory cloth. So with one person applying heat and the other applying torque with the pipe wrench we finally got the rod to twist ever so slightly. From there is was just a matter of continuing to twist back and forth while adding copious amounts of PB Blaster and eventually it started to move horizontally and then out. About two hours from the time we started using the wrench until we had worked it out. Smoothed out the rod with emory cloth, reemed the tube and it's back together and turning smooth. Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions. In the end it was all your advice plus being too stubborn to give up and also walking away from it for awhile that got the job done for the price of 3 cans of PB Blaster and a can of propane!","So after taking a Holiday break went back at the stuck steering rod issue. Decided there was nothing to lose by putting a pipe wrench on the end sticking out the port side (just starboard of where the steering arm connector from the motor attaches to the rod) since this region never gets drawn into the tube during normal operation anyway, and any teeth marks could be taken off with emory cloth. So with one person applying heat and the other applying torque with the pipe wrench we finally got the rod to twist ever so slightly. From there is was just a matter of continuing to twist back and forth while adding copious amounts of PB Blaster and eventually it started to move horizontally and then out. About two hours from the time we started using the wrench until we had worked it out. Smoothed out the rod with emory cloth, reemed the tube and it's back together and turning smooth. Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions. In the end it was all your advice plus being too stubborn to give up and also walking away from it for awhile that got the job done for the price of 3 cans of PB Blaster and a can of propane!","I don't use ethanol crap in either my cars or my outboard. I love my O-rings, floats and gaskets, so I only feed them nice refined fossil hydrocarbons. + + + + +Thanks, +Alfie Stewart +Motorbike Accident" +"90 HP Yamaha. Steering rod is frozen in tilt tube. Cable nut is removed so nothing holding the rod in the tube except its own stubborness! I have bathed it in PB Blaster, heated it with a torch, put a block of wood on the end and hit it with as much force as I feel is safe to avoid damage (which is quite a bit, as it is stainless and with the wood block I don't think I can really hurt it). I have been working on this off and on for several days and still it will not budge. Odd that only a few weeks ago I had the boat out and steering felt fine. At any rate, anyone have any additional suggestions?","Attaboy, Timbo!","Attaboy, Timbo!",Do a compression check. +"I have a four stroke 115 that idles great but when you go to accelerate it stalls. If you can slowly play with it and get it past that spot it runs fine at high rpms (just getting it to that point is the issue.) The fuel injection system has been cleaned, new spark plugs have been installed and new fuel filters. It happens so quick that it is pretty hard to diagnose so i was wondering if it could possibly be a sensor or something of that sort. Any input would be helpful. Thanks!","Year/ Model#s? +Check the fuel pump pressure? +Any water in the Vapor/separator?","Year/ Model#s? +Check the fuel pump pressure? +Any water in the Vapor/separator?","A gap formed in a break of the coil will likely get worse...the gap will likely increase. +The high voltage has to jump the coil gap AND the sparkplug gap. The spark in the sparkplug gap will be weaker than it should be. +If the secondary (high voltage winding) is open, you need to replace the coil!" +"I have a four stroke 115 that idles great but when you go to accelerate it stalls. If you can slowly play with it and get it past that spot it runs fine at high rpms (just getting it to that point is the issue.) The fuel injection system has been cleaned, new spark plugs have been installed and new fuel filters. It happens so quick that it is pretty hard to diagnose so i was wondering if it could possibly be a sensor or something of that sort. Any input would be helpful. Thanks!",F115TXRA. The pressure stays steady and then when it stalls comes up some. No water anywhere.,F115TXRA. The pressure stays steady and then when it stalls comes up some. No water anywhere.,"I'm getting fuel in the cylinders. Plugs aren't firing. + + + + +deepsea21 said: + + + + Have you been running ethanol blended gas in it? If so that is probably your problem. By choking the engine you were manually feeding more fuel to it through the carb that was probably clogged and couldn't deliver enough fuel without choking it. + +Buy a couple of cans of jet spray carb cleaner (carb cleaner is cheap and the outboard service center is expensive). Pull the carb, take it all apart (everything you can take apart including the little brass fuel jet and fuel bowl taken out & off) and blast that carb cleaner through every orifice you can find. Check the little hole in that brass fuel jet and make sure it is perfectly clean and clear. If it isn't, run a little piece of COPPER wire through it (softer than brass) and clean out any gum the carb cleaner spray couldn't blast away. + +If there is old ethanol blended fuel in your tank get rid of it. How you dispose of it is your own business (have a trash pile that needs burned?) Put fresh fuel in, hook up the fuel line and pump the bulb with someone back by the engine to catch the fuel in a cup as it squirts out from the fuel line that would feed the carb you've pulled and have cleaned. Keep pumping and squirting to get all that old fuel out of the lines. + +Put it all back together and then re-pump the fuel bulb until you get resistance and it is hard as that means the fuel bowl is filled. Then, see if she fires up. + + +An engine is simple... you need air, spark and fuel. + +Click to expand..." +"I have a four stroke 115 that idles great but when you go to accelerate it stalls. If you can slowly play with it and get it past that spot it runs fine at high rpms (just getting it to that point is the issue.) The fuel injection system has been cleaned, new spark plugs have been installed and new fuel filters. It happens so quick that it is pretty hard to diagnose so i was wondering if it could possibly be a sensor or something of that sort. Any input would be helpful. Thanks!","I have had this problem before, my mechanic told me its a combination on cleaning the carb, cause the butterflies dont open correctly and the exhaust buildup.","I have had this problem before, my mechanic told me its a combination on cleaning the carb, cause the butterflies dont open correctly and the exhaust buildup.","Silicone is used by people who have never had to remove it ten years later. +Not surprising but the same caulk you use on your house works on a boat. Dap Alex plus is my go-to. Takes paint, cleans up with water, sticks to everything and lasts for years. If you have to remove it it is soft enough that it comes off pretty easy. I rarely use 5200 except for places below the waterline for permanent install. Thing is once you take the cap off, that's it. Begins to catalyze and after a week or two you have a solid lump inside the tube. I buy the little tubes but even then I throw away more than I ever use. +For things that might be removed, I like to use dum dum. Also known as rope caulk. Usually found in with the weatherstripping. you put this between the deck and what you're bolting, and then tighten the fasteners. It's non hardening, so years later if you want to remove that thing it will come away clean. I put this around the stainless thru hull fittings for the bilge pump outlet. Works great. +There are bazillions of dedicated products, but the best are the simplest/cheapest. In the old days the only thing they used was white lead and linseed oil mixed to peanut butter consistency. This was known as bedding compound and got slapped on everything. Sorta like window glazing putty, if you know what that is." +"I have a four stroke 115 that idles great but when you go to accelerate it stalls. If you can slowly play with it and get it past that spot it runs fine at high rpms (just getting it to that point is the issue.) The fuel injection system has been cleaned, new spark plugs have been installed and new fuel filters. It happens so quick that it is pretty hard to diagnose so i was wondering if it could possibly be a sensor or something of that sort. Any input would be helpful. Thanks!",Check your ground wire. Has to be clean and secure.,Check your ground wire. Has to be clean and secure.,The “Hull Truth” boating forum has lots of people who have/are rebuilding boats of all styles with all kinds of problems. Worth a look. As far as the Mercruiser goes I’d say this forum is a good place to start. I’m assuming your doing the work yourself. +"I have a four stroke 115 that idles great but when you go to accelerate it stalls. If you can slowly play with it and get it past that spot it runs fine at high rpms (just getting it to that point is the issue.) The fuel injection system has been cleaned, new spark plugs have been installed and new fuel filters. It happens so quick that it is pretty hard to diagnose so i was wondering if it could possibly be a sensor or something of that sort. Any input would be helpful. Thanks!","Fuel injected, yes? How long since you last ran the motor before this started happening? Did it come on all of a sudden or did you notice any other less than perfect performance issue, even minor, leading up to this? How did you clean the injection system? Does it do the same thing in whether in or out of gear? When you say it runs fine at high RPM's, for how long? Can you keep it at high RPM for 5 or 10 mins with no problem, while underway?","Fuel injected, yes? How long since you last ran the motor before this started happening? Did it come on all of a sudden or did you notice any other less than perfect performance issue, even minor, leading up to this? How did you clean the injection system? Does it do the same thing in whether in or out of gear? When you say it runs fine at high RPM's, for how long? Can you keep it at high RPM for 5 or 10 mins with no problem, while underway?","Sorry to say....but I think this is a better outboard. As you must know Tohatsu and Honda are marriage partners for over 20 years. +Honda has been manufacturing 4 stroke outboards since 1964......the very first in the industry.....a full 20 years ahead of Yamaha. +Honda/Tohatsu offers the only 5 year warranty in the business. Don't take my word for it....keep checking around." +"hello everyone im new to the site,i need help im having a problem with my engine its a 2006/f250 4 stroke yam.it was running fine i started it one day and the ignition key got stuck and burnt the starter/when i removed the couling i had smoke, long story short i put a new starter in ,engine starts fine i changed oil and plugs,runs great but it wont go past 2600 rpms what did i do wrong or is there a fuse blown ?",Test the coils.,Test the coils.,"yeah we are completely replacing the fuel delivery system, fuel pickup, anti-siphon valve, all hoses, water/fuel separator. Everything downstream of the primer bulb will be replaced. We fueled the engine from a separate tank and it ran much better, still getting some fluctuations in rpms could be from bad or fouled plugs(changing those today). Thanks for your help, have a super day." +"Upon returning from a fishing trip and powering on the trailer this weekend, my engine shut off 3 or 4 times while I was powering on to the trailer. After shut off the engine made several clicking noises. After I got the boat home, there was not water coming from the pee port when using the muffs, but water did come out when the hose was connected to the hose flushing port. +I had just finished putting about 50 miles on it with no problems over two days. I hope it just a happy coincidence it failed when I got it on the trailer and not 20 miles out in the marsh. + +Engine is a 2004 Yamaha F115TXRC. + +Is this a failed water pump/impeller?",Water pump and thermostat time,Water pump and thermostat time,"I tried the same a few years ago with an old 17' Wellcraft center console with a 120 Johnson. Took a chainsaw to the top of the transom to remove all the wood between the outter and inner fiberglass and then cut 2 pieces of 3/4 marine plywood to fit in perfectly. Globbed a lot of West epoxy between the boards and on the outside and pounded them into place in the transom. Screwed some boards on to act as clamps and let it sit. Got more epoxy and glassed (with mat) to cover the top and some in the bilge to strengthen the bottom. Transom was solid as a rock. Boat was fine until one day came back and noticed a lot of water in the back. Five minitues later I had to put the boat on a bank to keep the engine from going under since it was taking on water. Drained the water from the hull and put it on a trailer to find an 18"" crack in the bottom since the stringers were rotted. Got very lucky since two nights before I had 4 others on board to go to dinner. +The 120 is now on a 19' Baja and I gave the Wellcraft away for free as a project boat (pretty sure it is still sitting untouched in the yard where I dropped it off). + +If you have a rotted transom, you probably have rot somewhere else. If this is going to be a family boat, be safe and go through everything or buy another hull. (I might have a 19' Baja for sale if you're interested)" +"Upon returning from a fishing trip and powering on the trailer this weekend, my engine shut off 3 or 4 times while I was powering on to the trailer. After shut off the engine made several clicking noises. After I got the boat home, there was not water coming from the pee port when using the muffs, but water did come out when the hose was connected to the hose flushing port. +I had just finished putting about 50 miles on it with no problems over two days. I hope it just a happy coincidence it failed when I got it on the trailer and not 20 miles out in the marsh. + +Engine is a 2004 Yamaha F115TXRC. + +Is this a failed water pump/impeller?","Yams don't like flushing muffs most of the time, will overheat and not show a piss stream. The flushing attachment works because you are putting pressure in the system and it fills the block and pisses. The problem with it dying going on the trailer indicates that the engine is not running up to snuff. Compression. Spark. Fuel Quality. The worry about the cooling system. Try it in the water and see what results you get.","Yams don't like flushing muffs most of the time, will overheat and not show a piss stream. The flushing attachment works because you are putting pressure in the system and it fills the block and pisses. The problem with it dying going on the trailer indicates that the engine is not running up to snuff. Compression. Spark. Fuel Quality. The worry about the cooling system. Try it in the water and see what results you get.","Or do they just not exist? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Usually not,...." +"Upon returning from a fishing trip and powering on the trailer this weekend, my engine shut off 3 or 4 times while I was powering on to the trailer. After shut off the engine made several clicking noises. After I got the boat home, there was not water coming from the pee port when using the muffs, but water did come out when the hose was connected to the hose flushing port. +I had just finished putting about 50 miles on it with no problems over two days. I hope it just a happy coincidence it failed when I got it on the trailer and not 20 miles out in the marsh. + +Engine is a 2004 Yamaha F115TXRC. + +Is this a failed water pump/impeller?",The clicking is normal. Isc valve resetting. Check all your connections and tps settings.,The clicking is normal. Isc valve resetting. Check all your connections and tps settings.,Thanks ! +"Hi,I'm new here...observed that the 2 exhaust outlet at the back of my outboard discharging water during idle.It lets out sprays of water when I give it more gas.Water from peep hole is good,engine is warm to touch during idle.Is this normal??Appreciate any advice,thanks.",Normal.,Normal.,Have you verified that the charge coil output is correct? And there there is good connectivity from the charge coil to the CDI? +"I have a 2002 F115 that has a problem on hot restart. 99% of the time it fires right up cold or on restart. On occasion, after a run of say 15-30 mins, will not start up. This may happen early or late in a day. Starter cranks but will not fire. Wait 15 mins or so, and usually starts up, but frustrating. Gas is good, re-squeeze bulb, sometimes tilt motor up and down and remove cowl. I have a 10u water sep filter on it as well. + +Any ideas?","You need to check for spark when she does this +also u can try and see if the motor starts in nutral with a little throttle +if it dies your TPS sensor needs adhusting +you also have an idle valve that needs to be checked yearly with the YDS program","You need to check for spark when she does this +also u can try and see if the motor starts in nutral with a little throttle +if it dies your TPS sensor needs adhusting +you also have an idle valve that needs to be checked yearly with the YDS program","Post your question on the Yamaha Forum on this site. Go to top left of this page and click on ""Forum Home."" Then select Yamaha outboards. + +Having said that, just because you have power going to the gauges and they are not reading anything doesn't mean they are bad. You need to make sure they are receiving the signals from the engine's ECU or other source. Your speed is typically measured by a pitot tube on the leading edge of your engine or by a separate device on the bottom edge of your transom. The hose from the pitot goes straight you your speedometer. RPM's are measured by a signal from your ECU or stator. Your fuel gauge uses a resistance reading from a float rheostat in your fuel tank." +"I have a 2002 F115 that has a problem on hot restart. 99% of the time it fires right up cold or on restart. On occasion, after a run of say 15-30 mins, will not start up. This may happen early or late in a day. Starter cranks but will not fire. Wait 15 mins or so, and usually starts up, but frustrating. Gas is good, re-squeeze bulb, sometimes tilt motor up and down and remove cowl. I have a 10u water sep filter on it as well. + +Any ideas?","Justintime- + +Assume no spark as it would be difficult to check. Coil? I am trying to go ahead and replace what may be the problem as diagnostics do not seem to have been able to find an issue. + +Thanks","Justintime- + +Assume no spark as it would be difficult to check. Coil? I am trying to go ahead and replace what may be the problem as diagnostics do not seem to have been able to find an issue. + +Thanks","This might be a long shot, but have you warmed the engine up thoroughly before backing out? +I have the identical power plant, (2008), with 322 hours. +it has never liked being put in reverse when cold. +It starts instantly, (use only a single stroke of the throttle to set the choke), then, as long as I let it idle til temp gets to around 140F, it never misses a beat. Try to back out 30 seconds after starting, it will die." +"I have a 2002 F115 that has a problem on hot restart. 99% of the time it fires right up cold or on restart. On occasion, after a run of say 15-30 mins, will not start up. This may happen early or late in a day. Starter cranks but will not fire. Wait 15 mins or so, and usually starts up, but frustrating. Gas is good, re-squeeze bulb, sometimes tilt motor up and down and remove cowl. I have a 10u water sep filter on it as well. + +Any ideas?","Well hope yo got big pockets because your just going to throw money at it + +You need to run the motor on a new fuel tank amd primer line + +Ypu need to do a spark amd compression check + +You need to use a timing light to check spark on all cylinders","Well hope yo got big pockets because your just going to throw money at it + +You need to run the motor on a new fuel tank amd primer line + +Ypu need to do a spark amd compression check + +You need to use a timing light to check spark on all cylinders",Get a factory harness with the appropriately colored wires...its the only way to go if you want to sell it in the future...not only are the colors important but you will find the copper under the insulation is not readily available at your favorite big box store... +"I have a 2002 F115 that has a problem on hot restart. 99% of the time it fires right up cold or on restart. On occasion, after a run of say 15-30 mins, will not start up. This may happen early or late in a day. Starter cranks but will not fire. Wait 15 mins or so, and usually starts up, but frustrating. Gas is good, re-squeeze bulb, sometimes tilt motor up and down and remove cowl. I have a 10u water sep filter on it as well. + +Any ideas?","I would hook a fuel pressure gauge up first. Get the engine hot, create the no start condition and check the fuel pressure.","I would hook a fuel pressure gauge up first. Get the engine hot, create the no start condition and check the fuel pressure.","DangarStu said: + + + + Yes, in some outboards it can be really tricky to get the water pipe to mate cleanly with the water pump. Once I also had the rubber grommet get pushed into the pipe so be really careful with that connection. Try shining a torch in until the gap is too small to see. An extra pair of hands really helps here. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks Stuart. I took it back apart to find the impeller had broken apart and clogged the outtake. I think I put it in right (seems to only go on one way with the chuck) but didn't lube it up with anything, so maybe that was the issue. Makes sense as I thought I saw a brief stream for a second or two after I put it back together the first time." +"I have a 2002 F115 that has a problem on hot restart. 99% of the time it fires right up cold or on restart. On occasion, after a run of say 15-30 mins, will not start up. This may happen early or late in a day. Starter cranks but will not fire. Wait 15 mins or so, and usually starts up, but frustrating. Gas is good, re-squeeze bulb, sometimes tilt motor up and down and remove cowl. I have a 10u water sep filter on it as well. + +Any ideas?",Seems that I read a post similar to this a while back and it was the Throttle Position Sensor. Mine did this a few times as well and seems if I let it idle before killing it I don't have that issue. I have the same engine and same year,Seems that I read a post similar to this a while back and it was the Throttle Position Sensor. Mine did this a few times as well and seems if I let it idle before killing it I don't have that issue. I have the same engine and same year,"I am not familiar with your specific motor, but what I have done in a similar situation is use the Menu at the top of the MarineEngine.com home page. Navigate to ""Engine Parts"", then select ""Yamaha Outboard Parts"" and then put in your motor Model Number. You can then view very useful parts diagrams which will give you the name and Part# for all parts. + +By the looks of it, your plastic bit may be part of the carburetor, if so, select the ""Fuel System"" or ""Carburetor"" diagram to see whether you can find it." +"I have a 2002 F115 that has a problem on hot restart. 99% of the time it fires right up cold or on restart. On occasion, after a run of say 15-30 mins, will not start up. This may happen early or late in a day. Starter cranks but will not fire. Wait 15 mins or so, and usually starts up, but frustrating. Gas is good, re-squeeze bulb, sometimes tilt motor up and down and remove cowl. I have a 10u water sep filter on it as well. + +Any ideas?","Thanks, pas_bon. + +I can easily do that and no cost too.","Thanks, pas_bon. + +I can easily do that and no cost too.",Is the screen in place on the fuel pump ??-------Inspected inside of your fuel tank ? +"I have a 2002 F115 that has a problem on hot restart. 99% of the time it fires right up cold or on restart. On occasion, after a run of say 15-30 mins, will not start up. This may happen early or late in a day. Starter cranks but will not fire. Wait 15 mins or so, and usually starts up, but frustrating. Gas is good, re-squeeze bulb, sometimes tilt motor up and down and remove cowl. I have a 10u water sep filter on it as well. + +Any ideas?",Is the tank vent clear?,Is the tank vent clear?,Anybody please? +"I have a Yamaha f115 tiller steered outboard on my 24' carolina Skiff. + +This engine has operated flawlessly since the day it was new in 2008. + +Regular mtc has been performed and always fresh fuel. + +Today as I was leaving a Marina heading back home the engine rpms started to jump around followed by a long single repeating warning buzzer. Eventually the engine stalled and I could not restart it. + +I was towed in to a nearby restaurant dock by a commercial guy. + +I called a freind and had him go to West Marine for a new fuel ball, replaced it and still no luck. + +Engine cranks like mad but I still have the buzzer sounding. + +I do not have any gauges as this is tiller only. + +2008 Yamaha f115 +The engine RPMs began to fall eventually the engine stalled. I was able to restart it and it ran for a moment then sputtered and died again. It has not started since. +This acted like a fuel problem. +1, I replaced the ball on the fuel line. No change. +2, replaced VST filter, no change. +3, replaced the water separator filter, no change +4, replaced the injectors, no change. +5, oill level is fine, but dirty. +6, pressure gauge on the rail shows 45lbs and climbing while cranking. +7, there is spark on all cylinders. +8, YDS software shows no issues! I am able to fire the cylinders, injectors and run the pumps using the YDS. There is fuel in the rail and the plugs do get wet! +9, The battery is fully charged. +10, There is no more alarm. + +It still wont start. + + +I am out of ideas...",Compression test and check ignition timing and valve timing.,Compression test and check ignition timing and valve timing.,"Inspect the fuel fill hose to the tank and the vent hose from the tank. Either or both could have a restriction. 21 year old boat, might be time to replace both. And the tank sender. Get the best sender possible for not much money. www.centroidproducts.com" +"I have a Yamaha f115 tiller steered outboard on my 24' carolina Skiff. + +This engine has operated flawlessly since the day it was new in 2008. + +Regular mtc has been performed and always fresh fuel. + +Today as I was leaving a Marina heading back home the engine rpms started to jump around followed by a long single repeating warning buzzer. Eventually the engine stalled and I could not restart it. + +I was towed in to a nearby restaurant dock by a commercial guy. + +I called a freind and had him go to West Marine for a new fuel ball, replaced it and still no luck. + +Engine cranks like mad but I still have the buzzer sounding. + +I do not have any gauges as this is tiller only. + +2008 Yamaha f115 +The engine RPMs began to fall eventually the engine stalled. I was able to restart it and it ran for a moment then sputtered and died again. It has not started since. +This acted like a fuel problem. +1, I replaced the ball on the fuel line. No change. +2, replaced VST filter, no change. +3, replaced the water separator filter, no change +4, replaced the injectors, no change. +5, oill level is fine, but dirty. +6, pressure gauge on the rail shows 45lbs and climbing while cranking. +7, there is spark on all cylinders. +8, YDS software shows no issues! I am able to fire the cylinders, injectors and run the pumps using the YDS. There is fuel in the rail and the plugs do get wet! +9, The battery is fully charged. +10, There is no more alarm. + +It still wont start. + + +I am out of ideas...","Recheck engine spark without ydis IMPORTANT! (using ydis for spark test should only be for testing ignition coil and ecu output) +check stop switch/kill switch and loom (if white cable is grounded fuel injection is cut along with ignition and isc stopped) i'm unsure if ydis tests can be carried out with this lanyard on (switch off) +During cranking, the ignition timing should be at 10degree BTDC until the engine starts +check pulsar coils +check isc valve functioning (Unlikely the problem)","Recheck engine spark without ydis IMPORTANT! (using ydis for spark test should only be for testing ignition coil and ecu output) +check stop switch/kill switch and loom (if white cable is grounded fuel injection is cut along with ignition and isc stopped) i'm unsure if ydis tests can be carried out with this lanyard on (switch off) +During cranking, the ignition timing should be at 10degree BTDC until the engine starts +check pulsar coils +check isc valve functioning (Unlikely the problem)","Check the air and fuel pressure as suggested. The air was @78-82 psi. The fuel was right at 90 psi. Ran a shop tank but had the same problem. Checked the tps unloaded and saw that resistence increased and decreased smoothly. The engine started and idled great, idled out and increased rpm above 2000 no problem. Then continued to add throttle, got just up to 4500 rpm when it cut out. Restarted at an idle and headed back to the dock, eventually made it after the engine stalled several times. Restarted after letting it sit for a while. Anyone have further thoughts?" +"I have a Yamaha f115 tiller steered outboard on my 24' carolina Skiff. + +This engine has operated flawlessly since the day it was new in 2008. + +Regular mtc has been performed and always fresh fuel. + +Today as I was leaving a Marina heading back home the engine rpms started to jump around followed by a long single repeating warning buzzer. Eventually the engine stalled and I could not restart it. + +I was towed in to a nearby restaurant dock by a commercial guy. + +I called a freind and had him go to West Marine for a new fuel ball, replaced it and still no luck. + +Engine cranks like mad but I still have the buzzer sounding. + +I do not have any gauges as this is tiller only. + +2008 Yamaha f115 +The engine RPMs began to fall eventually the engine stalled. I was able to restart it and it ran for a moment then sputtered and died again. It has not started since. +This acted like a fuel problem. +1, I replaced the ball on the fuel line. No change. +2, replaced VST filter, no change. +3, replaced the water separator filter, no change +4, replaced the injectors, no change. +5, oill level is fine, but dirty. +6, pressure gauge on the rail shows 45lbs and climbing while cranking. +7, there is spark on all cylinders. +8, YDS software shows no issues! I am able to fire the cylinders, injectors and run the pumps using the YDS. There is fuel in the rail and the plugs do get wet! +9, The battery is fully charged. +10, There is no more alarm. + +It still wont start. + + +I am out of ideas...",Check for a kill swtch malfunction.,Check for a kill swtch malfunction.,"kimcrwbr1, +Yea this is fun (NOT)! +The stringers are defiantly coming out and new ones going in. +My plan is to restore to original design with stick steering. The current stick steering and cable steering is not 100% original. Previous owner did a crappy fix and I'm not satisfied with it. I will probably use a new ""Ezy-glide"" system. Looks like they're the only company that manufactures a reliable stick steering system. +If you read my previous thread I explained my reasoning for taking on this project. +Nostalgia has it's price. +I've never worked with fiberglass, but looks pretty straight forward. +Thanks for the advice and please keep it coming. + +BTW, here are some photos. The one with the truck is the day I picked her up. Craigslist purchase for $1100. +Next photo is after some elbow grease on the finish." +"Engine starts ok but does not run any length of time then splutters and stops. + +When put in gear and revved up it sometimes loses power and stops. + +Have had the carbs off twice, cleaned out jets with fresh fuel and compressed air. Did find some water in the fuel bowl but not much dirt, now looks ok. + +Was some dirt and water in the fuel filter but have cleaned and dried out several times. + +Did find some dirt and water in the bottom of the fuel tank, so completely drained, cleaned and dried the tank and filled with fresh fuel, still no better. + +Any ideas on what else I can try?","Year/model? +The low speed air screw might need to be adjusted? +Set at 1 and 1/2 turn out for inital adjustment then after it's warm you adjust.","Year/model? +The low speed air screw might need to be adjusted? +Set at 1 and 1/2 turn out for inital adjustment then after it's warm you adjust.","screen inside of tank,possibly. You will have to trace your fuel lines physically from the fuel/water separator/s back to the tank/s. Is there 2 tanks? Are there 2 gas filler necks with caps?" +"Engine starts ok but does not run any length of time then splutters and stops. + +When put in gear and revved up it sometimes loses power and stops. + +Have had the carbs off twice, cleaned out jets with fresh fuel and compressed air. Did find some water in the fuel bowl but not much dirt, now looks ok. + +Was some dirt and water in the fuel filter but have cleaned and dried out several times. + +Did find some dirt and water in the bottom of the fuel tank, so completely drained, cleaned and dried the tank and filled with fresh fuel, still no better. + +Any ideas on what else I can try?",Fuel line fittings good?,Fuel line fittings good?,"fishingoats was correct, there was no pressure on that Schrader valve. In fact, if I took the valve out and attempted to start the engine, no gas even came out of that location so there is no pressure in the vst tank but just the actual line itself that heads to the injector rail. So I have no way of testing fuel pressure unless I get that clip that attaches to the rail. When I hold the fuel injector rail and have someone crank over the engine, there is a spray that goes almost 2ft so I have to believe that is enough pressure. The only thing I can think of is that the fuel pump is still not strong enough or screen is blocked preventing it from getting enough fuel to the injectors themselves." +"I have a weird tilt problem. Can tilt full up or down once, then don't have any tilt. Let it sit overnight and I have tilt for a minute or so and it stops again. Relays and relay contacts check good. I see there is an internal circuit breaker in the tilt motor. Can it behave that way? The way it looks in the diagram I'd think it would be a fusable link. Any suggestions? + +Bob +Cape Coral, FL",Battery voltage? Loose connections?,Battery voltage? Loose connections?,"I don't have a meter to check, I had a mechanic try to isolate, but he was not able to. I can ease the throttle after it is warm and get to full throttle and seems to do ok but sitting still at idle when cold I have to let it idle a while. If I raise the idle to 2500 rpm it will stay there for a minute and then stall out." +"I have a weird tilt problem. Can tilt full up or down once, then don't have any tilt. Let it sit overnight and I have tilt for a minute or so and it stops again. Relays and relay contacts check good. I see there is an internal circuit breaker in the tilt motor. Can it behave that way? The way it looks in the diagram I'd think it would be a fusable link. Any suggestions? + +Bob +Cape Coral, FL","No. + +The back side or the tilt motor housing was rusted through where the cable lays between the tilt motor and the stern bracket. The housing was coming in contact with the commutator causing it to heat up and it would trip the thermal breaker inside the tilt motor. Let it sit a few hours and the thermal breaker would reset and you could tilt it full up or full down once before it tripped the thermal breaker again.","No. + +The back side or the tilt motor housing was rusted through where the cable lays between the tilt motor and the stern bracket. The housing was coming in contact with the commutator causing it to heat up and it would trip the thermal breaker inside the tilt motor. Let it sit a few hours and the thermal breaker would reset and you could tilt it full up or full down once before it tripped the thermal breaker again.",can you explain it how to run with timing light? +"Hi all. +Firstly I have a 2000 Yamaha 70hp 2 stroke outboard. +It appears that my tilt/trim motor has completely stopped working. +I have tested the relay and all connections and tests good, second test will be the tilt/trim motor. Problem is I cannot access it + + + + + + + + + + + + + +I turned the manual release screw clockwise to relieve the pressure so that I can tilt the outboard up and down manually by hand. What happened is the outboard went down and now will not go back up no matter how hard I try to lift it. I cannot find any reason why its not free to lift up but it just does not. +So my problem is now I cannot access my tilt/trim motor to try and fix and I cannot get my outboard up so trailering it to an outboard repair shop is out. +Please help, am I missing something? +Any info would be appreciated +Steve","I had the same problem . I have twin 150 engines . Motor down but will not come up. Could not release the lock on the left side of the engine. ( later I found out that most of the engines out there you can't release it. It's not mechanical but directs fluid a different way. But that's another story. +My boat was on a floating dock and I have no trailer . I disconnected the through bolt holding the tilt bracket. Than I was going to hoist the engine up to get at the tilt motor. Could not raise the engine at the dock and had to take it to a marina and pay big bucks to replace the motor. +But before you do that try this first to see if it's you motor. Remove the wires at the engine going to the motor. Apply 12 volts and listen if the motor is working or not working. If not you should have any problem lifting your motor and replace the tilt motor. You could get them on line for about $300 I paid $500 to the marine , ouch. Good luck; +Flabob1","I had the same problem . I have twin 150 engines . Motor down but will not come up. Could not release the lock on the left side of the engine. ( later I found out that most of the engines out there you can't release it. It's not mechanical but directs fluid a different way. But that's another story. +My boat was on a floating dock and I have no trailer . I disconnected the through bolt holding the tilt bracket. Than I was going to hoist the engine up to get at the tilt motor. Could not raise the engine at the dock and had to take it to a marina and pay big bucks to replace the motor. +But before you do that try this first to see if it's you motor. Remove the wires at the engine going to the motor. Apply 12 volts and listen if the motor is working or not working. If not you should have any problem lifting your motor and replace the tilt motor. You could get them on line for about $300 I paid $500 to the marine , ouch. Good luck; +Flabob1",well i think i found my problem. I found some broken/bare wires that are coming out of the stator under the flywheel. Can't get to them yet but i can see them barely +"Hi all. +Firstly I have a 2000 Yamaha 70hp 2 stroke outboard. +It appears that my tilt/trim motor has completely stopped working. +I have tested the relay and all connections and tests good, second test will be the tilt/trim motor. Problem is I cannot access it + + + + + + + + + + + + + +I turned the manual release screw clockwise to relieve the pressure so that I can tilt the outboard up and down manually by hand. What happened is the outboard went down and now will not go back up no matter how hard I try to lift it. I cannot find any reason why its not free to lift up but it just does not. +So my problem is now I cannot access my tilt/trim motor to try and fix and I cannot get my outboard up so trailering it to an outboard repair shop is out. +Please help, am I missing something? +Any info would be appreciated +Steve","When applying the 12 volts don't forget to reverse the + and - . That will give yo a up and down . + +flabob1","When applying the 12 volts don't forget to reverse the + and - . That will give yo a up and down . + +flabob1","Stuart Allen said: + + + + Hey there + +There are a few things that could be going on here. Given you said you cleaned the reed valves and it starts easily I'm presuming those valves where closing well. If they don't they can cause fuel to come back out through the carburettors. Also, because you cleaned the carburettors I'm going to assume the needle and seat for the float bowl is working well and the fuel pump isn't causing them to overflow. From the smoke and fuel is sounds like it is running rich. Are the chokes opening completely? You may also need to balance the carbs with a set of vacuum gauges to smooth out that idle, but it sounds like you've got something a bit more seriously wrong with it first. I'd also be inclined to put a timing light on it and see where it is at there. + +Stuart + +Click to expand... + + + +Good morning stuart and thanks for your reply + +Yes, the seat and needle for the carburetor are OK. I took them out last night to double check. +The choke is also opening completely, so it's OK too + +Just for the hell of it, I'm going to take apart the reed valves and check them again, if everything is fine, I'll put it back together tonight and tomorrow I will borrow a timing light from work and see how the ignition timing is" +"Hi all. +Firstly I have a 2000 Yamaha 70hp 2 stroke outboard. +It appears that my tilt/trim motor has completely stopped working. +I have tested the relay and all connections and tests good, second test will be the tilt/trim motor. Problem is I cannot access it + + + + + + + + + + + + + +I turned the manual release screw clockwise to relieve the pressure so that I can tilt the outboard up and down manually by hand. What happened is the outboard went down and now will not go back up no matter how hard I try to lift it. I cannot find any reason why its not free to lift up but it just does not. +So my problem is now I cannot access my tilt/trim motor to try and fix and I cannot get my outboard up so trailering it to an outboard repair shop is out. +Please help, am I missing something? +Any info would be appreciated +Steve",Fuse?,Fuse?,"You ain't wrong.... It definitely got messy last time we were out by the keys. + +Thanks again" +"My 2005 150 is messing with me. Had some bad fuel so I drained the tank, changed the plugs and fuel filter. Runs better but still no power especially tough on getting to plane out which never was an issue even with 4 passengers and kids on the tube. Think I have to get it scanned - not sure where to take it to determine the problem and not be overcharged. Guidance is appreciated.",Replace the filters in the VST and get the injectors cleaned.,Replace the filters in the VST and get the injectors cleaned.,"rejesterd said: + + + + Yep that's the one. + +Click to expand... + +Will get that today, thank you." +"My 2005 150 is messing with me. Had some bad fuel so I drained the tank, changed the plugs and fuel filter. Runs better but still no power especially tough on getting to plane out which never was an issue even with 4 passengers and kids on the tube. Think I have to get it scanned - not sure where to take it to determine the problem and not be overcharged. Guidance is appreciated.","Can I pull the VST injector myself, I know how to get the 4 others. Nothing on you tube for the VST. Thought to pull all the injectors myself and take them in for testing/cleaning to save a bit of $.","Can I pull the VST injector myself, I know how to get the 4 others. Nothing on you tube for the VST. Thought to pull all the injectors myself and take them in for testing/cleaning to save a bit of $.","Suggest you post that on the Mercruiser Forum. Go to the top left of this page, click on ""Forum Home"", scroll down to I/O and Inboard, then click on Mercruiser." +"My 2005 150 is messing with me. Had some bad fuel so I drained the tank, changed the plugs and fuel filter. Runs better but still no power especially tough on getting to plane out which never was an issue even with 4 passengers and kids on the tube. Think I have to get it scanned - not sure where to take it to determine the problem and not be overcharged. Guidance is appreciated.",The VST houses the high pressure fuel pump and filter. It is under the intake manifold.,The VST houses the high pressure fuel pump and filter. It is under the intake manifold.,"Its usually best to replace the steering cable...they wear on the inside. + +Your choice of grease is more than adequate for the helm assembly, just use it sparingly. I'd be inclined to inspect the assembly and replace it if the internal parts are worn....they wear out as well..." +"My 2005 150 is messing with me. Had some bad fuel so I drained the tank, changed the plugs and fuel filter. Runs better but still no power especially tough on getting to plane out which never was an issue even with 4 passengers and kids on the tube. Think I have to get it scanned - not sure where to take it to determine the problem and not be overcharged. Guidance is appreciated.","http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...YxYeBQ1a2QBJgFQV9ibewtA&bvm=bv.82001339,d.dGc","http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...YxYeBQ1a2QBJgFQV9ibewtA&bvm=bv.82001339,d.dGc",Actually it is more like the engine is turned off. It doesn't sputter or buck but rather just stops. Normally it starts right back up but will stall again if throttle is advanced at all even just putting it in gear will stop it. +"I an see water spraying out the exhaust port on the back of the motor. It's not noticeable at idle, but much more apparent when running the motor around 1500-2000 rpm. Is this normal or do I have a serious motor issue, like a blown head gasket or worse? 
+
+Bob
+Cape Coral, FL
+

",Normal.,Normal.,"I should think so but don’t have the manual to hand. Let me know what you have checked so far, I’ll be back home in a few days, I’ll look up the troubleshooting resistance values and post them up." +"Hi there, +I bought second hand Yamaha 40 HEO from 1992, 3 cylinder +It starts lovely, but recently above 2500 rpm shows some kind of ''kr'' krk'' sound, not loud but is there +otherwise it runs fine, I use original Yamalube and sparks replaced month ago +this is my boat running +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mW0SYKdgTW0 + +thanks",Sounds like an ignition miss.---------------Use a timing light to see which cylinder.--------Do a compression test also.,Sounds like an ignition miss.---------------Use a timing light to see which cylinder.--------Do a compression test also.,Very much appreciated!!!!!! +"Hi there, +I bought second hand Yamaha 40 HEO from 1992, 3 cylinder +It starts lovely, but recently above 2500 rpm shows some kind of ''kr'' krk'' sound, not loud but is there +otherwise it runs fine, I use original Yamalube and sparks replaced month ago +this is my boat running +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mW0SYKdgTW0 + +thanks","thanks, +also is it normal that sparks goes every couple of months? +I changed them twice a year, old ones looks good but engine runs rough","thanks, +also is it normal that sparks goes every couple of months? +I changed them twice a year, old ones looks good but engine runs rough","sogboat said: + + + + + + + +Furthermore, can any one tell me.. +Should #1 freely move, or does it have to be running to move it? Assuming this is forward / reverse? Cuz mine is seemingly stuck. + +What is #2, #3 for? + +Click to expand... + + +You're in luck. A free digital download of your engines service manual is here: +https://www.vansoutboardparts.com/s...amaha-shop-manuals/608-1992-yamaha-4n-5n/file + +#1 is the gear shifter. It should move into forward and reverse freely, though shifting into either gear should only be done when crankshaft is spinning (engine running). In reference to the 2nd video...that is the starter neutral in gear protection. Its purpose is to prevent the engine from starting if the gear shifter is not in neutral. + +Not sure what #2 is. #3 looks to be the manual trim/tilt lever. + +In reference to your 1st video. I find it best to use the word ""engaged"" when referring to the choke, as to not get confused with the carb butterfly as open or closed. So if the choke is engaged, the butterfly is closed, thereby decreasing the amount of air into the intake, thus causing a rich mix for cold starting. The choke should be engaged for first start of the day. After the engine is warm you should no longer need the choke engaged. From the video, it looks as though the tiller throttle is not functioning. When the engine is running in neutral as it is in the video, when you turn the throttle grip the rpms should increase or decrease. + +With the engine off, neutral gear, and cowling off, twist the tiller grip to max throttle then back to no throttle. Watch the throttle cable where it attaches to the throttle lever near or on the carb. As you twist the throttle grip, the cable should be also pulling the throttle lever open and releasing to close. If not, then you've got an issue with the throttle cable. + +RE: Smoking +Looks to be an excessive amount of smoke. However, it looks as though the prop boss was not completely submerged. When submerged, exhaust exiting prop boss would not be seen since it's underwater. Another note...it's an old 2 stroke. Excessive smoking is not uncommon. Just be sure you've got the proper fuelil ratio mixed per yamaha's suggested ratio. + +Now that you have a service manual, follow the instructions in the section ""periodic adjustment and maintenance"" for applying grease. You'll need a tube of marine grease, a grease gun, and a zirk fitting for the gun. Grease all points. Who knows how long its been since the engine was properly greased. It could be the reason the shifter is not moving." +"Hi there, +I bought second hand Yamaha 40 HEO from 1992, 3 cylinder +It starts lovely, but recently above 2500 rpm shows some kind of ''kr'' krk'' sound, not loud but is there +otherwise it runs fine, I use original Yamalube and sparks replaced month ago +this is my boat running +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mW0SYKdgTW0 + +thanks","Many good sparkplugs are thrown away !!----------Not much goes wrong with the plugs.----------------I suggest you do a compression test.---------Then test that spark will jump a gap of 3/8"" or 1 cm with ease.-------------That will help you determine where the problems might be.---------------Trouble shooting does not cost $$ , it just saves you $$$","Many good sparkplugs are thrown away !!----------Not much goes wrong with the plugs.----------------I suggest you do a compression test.---------Then test that spark will jump a gap of 3/8"" or 1 cm with ease.-------------That will help you determine where the problems might be.---------------Trouble shooting does not cost $$ , it just saves you $$$",Change it out +"Hi there, +I bought second hand Yamaha 40 HEO from 1992, 3 cylinder +It starts lovely, but recently above 2500 rpm shows some kind of ''kr'' krk'' sound, not loud but is there +otherwise it runs fine, I use original Yamalube and sparks replaced month ago +this is my boat running +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mW0SYKdgTW0 + +thanks","compression is good and tested, official mechanic for Yamaha has tested boat and for him engine si fine +he also said that this engine is not favorizing low rpms, and last time I did run it pretty low for fishing, after that it chokes and coughs a bit","compression is good and tested, official mechanic for Yamaha has tested boat and for him engine si fine +he also said that this engine is not favorizing low rpms, and last time I did run it pretty low for fishing, after that it chokes and coughs a bit","We had a similar issue a few years back and the issue was a dirty earth connection on the block. There are several of them and the mechanic cleaned them all. This was after servicing all the filters, VST, pumps etc as you have done." +"Hi there, +I bought second hand Yamaha 40 HEO from 1992, 3 cylinder +It starts lovely, but recently above 2500 rpm shows some kind of ''kr'' krk'' sound, not loud but is there +otherwise it runs fine, I use original Yamalube and sparks replaced month ago +this is my boat running +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mW0SYKdgTW0 + +thanks",????----------Please read post # 4 again and report actual results of the tests.----------That motor should idle at low rpm all day long.----------Something is wrong with the motor and it should be easy to determine what is wrong !!!!,????----------Please read post # 4 again and report actual results of the tests.----------That motor should idle at low rpm all day long.----------Something is wrong with the motor and it should be easy to determine what is wrong !!!!,Great thanks for the info. When I get home and check it out I'll let you know! Hopefully it will be an easy fix! +"After being under way for 30 minutes of so my 86 150 ETLJ dropped to 1500 RPM, had no guts. Stalls when idling down to shift. Difficult to restart. + +Topped off with fresh fuel and emptied a can of Sea Foam through the carbs while hooked to hose and ""muffs"". Seemed to be slight improvement in idle. + +Next time back in the water, no improvement. Difficult to idle down and shift in to gear without stalling. Once underway, no guts and 1500 max RPM. Fast idle to 2200 RPM, engine fluctuates then drops back to 1500. Will not hold fast idle. + +Should mention that after each time out i top off with fresh fuel and the appropriate amount of stabilizer. + +After researching posts on similar issues, I am afraid I am looking at a carb rebuild, bu before I do thought I should invite input from others regarding what other options I might check out before I commit to rebuilding the carbs. All input welcome.",Do a compression check first before doing anything else. You may have lost a cylinder or two.,Do a compression check first before doing anything else. You may have lost a cylinder or two.,What is the reason your pulling the tank? +"After being under way for 30 minutes of so my 86 150 ETLJ dropped to 1500 RPM, had no guts. Stalls when idling down to shift. Difficult to restart. + +Topped off with fresh fuel and emptied a can of Sea Foam through the carbs while hooked to hose and ""muffs"". Seemed to be slight improvement in idle. + +Next time back in the water, no improvement. Difficult to idle down and shift in to gear without stalling. Once underway, no guts and 1500 max RPM. Fast idle to 2200 RPM, engine fluctuates then drops back to 1500. Will not hold fast idle. + +Should mention that after each time out i top off with fresh fuel and the appropriate amount of stabilizer. + +After researching posts on similar issues, I am afraid I am looking at a carb rebuild, bu before I do thought I should invite input from others regarding what other options I might check out before I commit to rebuilding the carbs. All input welcome.","Not sure why folks blame the carburetors first.--------As said you start off with a compression test and then a spark test.----------A proper spark test uses a tool with an adjustable gap set at 7/16"" ---------You should see spark jump that gap with a snap you can hear.","Not sure why folks blame the carburetors first.--------As said you start off with a compression test and then a spark test.----------A proper spark test uses a tool with an adjustable gap set at 7/16"" ---------You should see spark jump that gap with a snap you can hear.","Sorry, should have said get engine to TDC No 1 rocking" +"It never ends, does it ? +New problem today. I have twin Yamaha 150 HPDI, 2004 . It was low tide in my canal approx 1 to 2 ft. with a mud silt bottom. Turning the boat around slowly backing up both engines shut down at the same time. Thinking that I got tangled in some old dock line only to find the props clean of line. What's common to boat engines ? ,Fuel ? Disconnected the tank vent line , checks OK. Remove fuel line aft of each filter and pumped bulb.It had good flow. +Hooked water to the flush engines and found water flowing out all drains and weep holes. With one engine just slightly less on one .Engines crank but no start as if there's no fuel or spark. Is it possible to suck up in both engine enough silt/mud to pack up the water pump impellers on both ?Will there still be water flow out of the drains if so ? After engine are cooled down they still will not start. Is there some kind of reset to do if they did over heat ? +I'm stumped and want to go fishing. Any help on the problem would sure be welcome.","flabob1 said: + + + + It never ends, does it ? +New problem today. I have twin Yamaha 150 HPDI, 2004 . It was low tide in my canal approx 1 to 2 ft. with a mud silt bottom. Turning the boat around slowly backing up both engines shut down at the same time. Thinking that I got tangled in some old dock line only to find the props clean of line. What's common to boat engines ? ,Fuel ? Disconnected the tank vent line , checks OK. Remove fuel line aft of each filter and pumped bulb.It had good flow. +Hooked water to the flush engines and found water flowing out all drains and weep holes. With one engine just slightly less on one .Engines crank but no start as if there's no fuel or spark. Is it possible to suck up in both engine enough silt/mud to pack up the water pump impellers on both ?Will there still be water flow out of the drains if so ? After engine are cooled down they still will not start. Is there some kind of reset to do if they did over heat ? +I'm stumped and want to go fishing. Any help on the problem would sure be welcome. + +Click to expand... + + +Found the Problem. +Sometimes you think of the worse without checking the obvious first. The "" KILL SWITCH "" Dummy me. The cord on the kill switch wrapped around the steering wheel hub and pulled it out. Missed a day of fishing for no reason.","flabob1 said: + + + + It never ends, does it ? +New problem today. I have twin Yamaha 150 HPDI, 2004 . It was low tide in my canal approx 1 to 2 ft. with a mud silt bottom. Turning the boat around slowly backing up both engines shut down at the same time. Thinking that I got tangled in some old dock line only to find the props clean of line. What's common to boat engines ? ,Fuel ? Disconnected the tank vent line , checks OK. Remove fuel line aft of each filter and pumped bulb.It had good flow. +Hooked water to the flush engines and found water flowing out all drains and weep holes. With one engine just slightly less on one .Engines crank but no start as if there's no fuel or spark. Is it possible to suck up in both engine enough silt/mud to pack up the water pump impellers on both ?Will there still be water flow out of the drains if so ? After engine are cooled down they still will not start. Is there some kind of reset to do if they did over heat ? +I'm stumped and want to go fishing. Any help on the problem would sure be welcome. + +Click to expand... + + +Found the Problem. +Sometimes you think of the worse without checking the obvious first. The "" KILL SWITCH "" Dummy me. The cord on the kill switch wrapped around the steering wheel hub and pulled it out. Missed a day of fishing for no reason.","""I have a clear bowl & the + +""I have a clear bowl & the filter that was on didn't have that many hours on it,the problem was the layup & trying to leave before daylight.I know I screwed up,when I am lobster fishing I check the bowl everyday,I should have checked the bowl when the boat was at my cousins but I was to busy thinking about catching cod & haddock.The sad thing is it doesn't take gallons of water just a little bit of water will cause the reaction if you don't use the gas within the 3 week period.We are having a hard time here in Maine with gas right from the pumps,a friend of mine that works on engines put some gas that he bought right into a glass jar & in no time it started to change.The Honda dealer here was pulling his hair out by the end of the boating season & he even called the gas supplier to bitch them out but it didn't do any good.""" +"My F200 v6 yamaha has been running great all summer long,I use her to pull a small shrimp trawl along SC coastal water.Went out Friday,made the first 2 hr trawl put her back out pulled for another 30 min and got a brief drop in RPM's about 200 for 5-10 seconds then died.I noticed a faint smell of something burnt but very faint.Checked all fuel parts water separator canister,fuel rail was pressurized ,everything checked out.pumped the bulb ,turned her over just fine,but no ignition.Checked fuses under cowling ,all good.Does anyone have an idea where to start? Worst of all we were killing the shrimp !!! + + Any ideas, Moonman60","Do a compression test, just to see the general health of the motor. +Outboard ignition . com has test procedures for the electrical system. +On the Yam motors look at the Yam. parts icon. +Then go to 200 then it show 3 parts. +Go to each individual part and it has test procedures for that part. +Check each part and see if that helps??","Do a compression test, just to see the general health of the motor. +Outboard ignition . com has test procedures for the electrical system. +On the Yam motors look at the Yam. parts icon. +Then go to 200 then it show 3 parts. +Go to each individual part and it has test procedures for that part. +Check each part and see if that helps??",i would move the transducer to the other side (or move the pump) to give it a clear field of view and to reduce the electrical noise from the motor.... +"My F200 v6 yamaha has been running great all summer long,I use her to pull a small shrimp trawl along SC coastal water.Went out Friday,made the first 2 hr trawl put her back out pulled for another 30 min and got a brief drop in RPM's about 200 for 5-10 seconds then died.I noticed a faint smell of something burnt but very faint.Checked all fuel parts water separator canister,fuel rail was pressurized ,everything checked out.pumped the bulb ,turned her over just fine,but no ignition.Checked fuses under cowling ,all good.Does anyone have an idea where to start? Worst of all we were killing the shrimp !!! + + Any ideas, Moonman60","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + Do a compression test, just to see the general health of the motor. +Outboard ignition . com has test procedures for the electrical system. +On the Yam motors look at the Yam. parts icon. +Then go to 200 then it show 3 parts. +Go to each individual part and it has test procedures for that part. +Check each part and see if that helps?? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanx Jerryjerry05, Good links but the problem was the high pressure pump in the VST tank locked up.When I checked for fuel rail pressure there was some there but not enough.","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + Do a compression test, just to see the general health of the motor. +Outboard ignition . com has test procedures for the electrical system. +On the Yam motors look at the Yam. parts icon. +Then go to 200 then it show 3 parts. +Go to each individual part and it has test procedures for that part. +Check each part and see if that helps?? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanx Jerryjerry05, Good links but the problem was the high pressure pump in the VST tank locked up.When I checked for fuel rail pressure there was some there but not enough.",Or the lanyard is pulled. +"I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines. It was rough seas the other day and I was traveling at 300 RPMS when the alarm sounded steady. the engines did not drop in RPMS ,all indications looked good. I was able to advance each engine . I shut down the left engine and the alarm continued. Shutting both down it stopped. Continued on and about 10 min. later it sounded again . This time I shut down the right engine first but it still continued. +We were close to were we wanted to go so we anchored for a few hours. On the way back going at different speeds it never sounded again. Could it be something common to both engines that sounded the alarm and nothing to do with the engines? Does it matter what engine you shut down first to determining which is at fault ? The main oil tank was full .Did not check engine small tank .If for some reason it did't get oil would the alarm sound steady. It was rough seas I thought maybe sloshing around the oil was the cause. Tk's for some help in advance. +Bob","flabob1 said: + + + + I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines. It was rough seas the other day and I was traveling at 300 RPMS when the alarm sounded steady. the engines did not drop in RPMS ,all indications looked good. I was able to advance each engine . I shut down the left engine and the alarm continued. Shutting both down it stopped. Continued on and about 10 min. later it sounded again . This time I shut down the right engine first but it still continued. +We were close to were we wanted to go so we anchored for a few hours. On the way back going at different speeds it never sounded again. Could it be something common to both engines that sounded the alarm and nothing to do with the engines? Does it matter what engine you shut down first to determining which is at fault ? The main oil tank was full .Did not check engine small tank .If for some reason it did't get oil would the alarm sound steady. It was rough seas I thought maybe sloshing around the oil was the cause. Tk's for some help in advance. +Bob + +Click to expand... + + +I found the problem. The four pin connector at the main tank had a broken wire on the back one of one of the pins. Which made it intermittent . Removed pin and solid wire on . Reinstalled pin , checks OK.","flabob1 said: + + + + I have twin 2004 150 HPDI engines. It was rough seas the other day and I was traveling at 300 RPMS when the alarm sounded steady. the engines did not drop in RPMS ,all indications looked good. I was able to advance each engine . I shut down the left engine and the alarm continued. Shutting both down it stopped. Continued on and about 10 min. later it sounded again . This time I shut down the right engine first but it still continued. +We were close to were we wanted to go so we anchored for a few hours. On the way back going at different speeds it never sounded again. Could it be something common to both engines that sounded the alarm and nothing to do with the engines? Does it matter what engine you shut down first to determining which is at fault ? The main oil tank was full .Did not check engine small tank .If for some reason it did't get oil would the alarm sound steady. It was rough seas I thought maybe sloshing around the oil was the cause. Tk's for some help in advance. +Bob + +Click to expand... + + +I found the problem. The four pin connector at the main tank had a broken wire on the back one of one of the pins. Which made it intermittent . Removed pin and solid wire on . Reinstalled pin , checks OK.","Thanks for info and help, could not get link to work" +Ok so I have a 1989 30 hp outboard runs for 30 minutes then stalls. Not Overheating head is about 195 degrees when it stalls will re-fire but will not run for more then 30 seconds. If I let it sit about 15 minutes it will re-fire and run for about 20 minutes then same thing as stated above. It has spark when this happens but still will not fire???? I'm at a loss any ideas would e great thanks in advance.,the head is 195 degrees? if this is true it is Overheating for sure!,the head is 195 degrees? if this is true it is Overheating for sure!,"If you remove some weight, check the hull and prop and find nothing out of the ordinary are you SURE it's not performing the same as it was when you purchased it? Is it still reaching the same RPM as it did at WOT or has that dropped? Where are you getting your MPH speed readings from? A GPS will always give an accurate reading, a speedo that measures via a pick-up tube or one tied into the engine's sending unit that reads teh same way (via water pressure) can start to read slower and slower as growth/sand/silt, etc starts to plug up the pick-up tube or hole. I personally pay no attention to the speedo that is tied into my F115 as that stupid thing and the little port on the leading edge of the lower unit that reads the water pressure seem to always need cleaning to report a somewhat accurate reading... Lousy design = lousy readings." +Ok so I have a 1989 30 hp outboard runs for 30 minutes then stalls. Not Overheating head is about 195 degrees when it stalls will re-fire but will not run for more then 30 seconds. If I let it sit about 15 minutes it will re-fire and run for about 20 minutes then same thing as stated above. It has spark when this happens but still will not fire???? I'm at a loss any ideas would e great thanks in advance.,Is the fuel tank breather clear and open?,Is the fuel tank breather clear and open?,Strange indeed. Post your question on the Evinrude forum on this website. There are some real experts that hang out there. +"Thinking of getting a 99 Mercury 225 or 97 Yam 225. + Was wondering about the economy and comparing the Yam to a Mer + Both are EFI both run good. + Pros and cons from every one who owns either. + Gonna post this in the Yamaha section too. + + I heard the Yams are a bit harder on gas. + Was wondering why as they use almost the same fuel system?? + + Thanks,J",Are these the same engine with a different paint colour ??,Are these the same engine with a different paint colour ??,Some simple maintenance is requred.----These motors have a history of bad / cracked coils.---So pull the flywheel off with the proper puller ( 3 bolts ) and inspect.-----It will likely have 2 bad coils or 2 new ones.----See this all the time. +"Thinking of getting a 99 Mercury 225 or 97 Yam 225. + Was wondering about the economy and comparing the Yam to a Mer + Both are EFI both run good. + Pros and cons from every one who owns either. + Gonna post this in the Yamaha section too. + + I heard the Yams are a bit harder on gas. + Was wondering why as they use almost the same fuel system?? + + Thanks,J",I think so.,I think so.,"If a motor with a choke plate has to have the throttle advanced to facilitate a cold start then something is not correct with the motor. + +Yes, in your case advancing the throttle apparently works. I can't disagree with what you say works for you. + +I am saying that advancing the throttle is trying to compensate for something else that is amiss. + +Just like if a hot motor is flooded then opening the throttle will allow more air to flow through which will facilitate clearing out the extra fuel. When the air/fuel mix gets right then the motor will start. The throttle is being opened to compensate for a problem within the motor." +"Thinking of getting a 99 Mercury 225 or 97 Yam 225. + Was wondering about the economy and comparing the Yam to a Mer + Both are EFI both run good. + Pros and cons from every one who owns either. + Gonna post this in the Yamaha section too. + + I heard the Yams are a bit harder on gas. + Was wondering why as they use almost the same fuel system?? + + Thanks,J","I would get the yamaha. Mercury FI outboards are more expensive to repair. ex...the VST filter on the HP pump is a few hundred dollars. The pump is also $$$$ and prone to failure. + +Fuel injected outboards are not any more fuel efficient than carbed outboards, unless they are direct injected.","I would get the yamaha. Mercury FI outboards are more expensive to repair. ex...the VST filter on the HP pump is a few hundred dollars. The pump is also $$$$ and prone to failure. + +Fuel injected outboards are not any more fuel efficient than carbed outboards, unless they are direct injected.","Ayuh,.... There are shop manuals for motors, 'n drives, but not for the boat, 'n hull,....." +"Thinking of getting a 99 Mercury 225 or 97 Yam 225. + Was wondering about the economy and comparing the Yam to a Mer + Both are EFI both run good. + Pros and cons from every one who owns either. + Gonna post this in the Yamaha section too. + + I heard the Yams are a bit harder on gas. + Was wondering why as they use almost the same fuel system?? + + Thanks,J","What OB's are direct injected? + +So if I buy a 200hp carbed it's as good on gas as a EFI?? +Then why make it? +Yea I had a 225Mer and the pumps were very costly!!!","What OB's are direct injected? + +So if I buy a 200hp carbed it's as good on gas as a EFI?? +Then why make it? +Yea I had a 225Mer and the pumps were very costly!!!",\\yes +"Thinking of getting a 99 Mercury 225 or 97 Yam 225. + Was wondering about the economy and comparing the Yam to a Mer + Both are EFI both run good. + Pros and cons from every one who owns either. + Gonna post this in the Yamaha section too. + + I heard the Yams are a bit harder on gas. + Was wondering why as they use almost the same fuel system?? + + Thanks,J","Mercury Optimax + +Yamaha HPDI. + +Evinrude ETech. + + +The FI outboards are easier to start. No choke.","Mercury Optimax + +Yamaha HPDI. + +Evinrude ETech. + + +The FI outboards are easier to start. No choke.","Found sawdust looking crap in carb bowls; and disassembled fuel pump. FP diaphrams stiff but not torn. + +Jets and needles are getting brite & shiney in Berrymans Carb Soak. + +What about bleeding oil pump with new supply hose? Will run and udate post. + +Thanks" +"Thinking of getting a 99 Mercury 225 or 97 Yam 225. + Was wondering about the economy and comparing the Yam to a Mer + Both are EFI both run good. + Pros and cons from every one who owns either. + Gonna post this in the Yamaha section too. + + I heard the Yams are a bit harder on gas. + Was wondering why as they use almost the same fuel system?? + + Thanks,J","Usually (actually almost all the time) an electronic application is cheaper to manufacture. Everyone gets hung up in OH| ""electronics"" so it must be expensive/better. Not so ,Also Mechanical is more failsafe, electro is proprietary and brings the manufacturer more money in repairs. (not to mention reprogramming etc.) Yes a carbed engine will get the same gas mileage as a fuel injection at the same sustained speed, which a boat motor doen't really change throttle positions as much as you do in your car around town (Carbed car has to rely on a lil squirt from the accelerator pump so as to make up for the lag of the vaccum decrease when you press the accelerator. so there is a little waste. almost unmeasurable except by epa standards. +At pgh boat show couple years ago I was in a discussion/negotiation to buy a merc 350 c.i. IO in a Cobalt. I was complaining about the Fuel injection, I did not want an additional electronic gizmo to break and strand me out on lake Erie or anywhere else. Merc rep later tracked me down and offered me the same new engine with a carborator option, (more money of course) he told me that Merc offers them with a carb as most experienced charter boat captains will not do electronic ignition. etc etc. and they do not want to strand or be liable for their paying passengers. +an + + + + + +Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + What OB's are direct injected? + +So if I buy a 200hp carbed it's as good on gas as a EFI?? +Then why make it? +Yea I had a 225Mer and the pumps were very costly!!! + +Click to expand...","Usually (actually almost all the time) an electronic application is cheaper to manufacture. Everyone gets hung up in OH| ""electronics"" so it must be expensive/better. Not so ,Also Mechanical is more failsafe, electro is proprietary and brings the manufacturer more money in repairs. (not to mention reprogramming etc.) Yes a carbed engine will get the same gas mileage as a fuel injection at the same sustained speed, which a boat motor doen't really change throttle positions as much as you do in your car around town (Carbed car has to rely on a lil squirt from the accelerator pump so as to make up for the lag of the vaccum decrease when you press the accelerator. so there is a little waste. almost unmeasurable except by epa standards. +At pgh boat show couple years ago I was in a discussion/negotiation to buy a merc 350 c.i. IO in a Cobalt. I was complaining about the Fuel injection, I did not want an additional electronic gizmo to break and strand me out on lake Erie or anywhere else. Merc rep later tracked me down and offered me the same new engine with a carborator option, (more money of course) he told me that Merc offers them with a carb as most experienced charter boat captains will not do electronic ignition. etc etc. and they do not want to strand or be liable for their paying passengers. +an + + + + + +Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + What OB's are direct injected? + +So if I buy a 200hp carbed it's as good on gas as a EFI?? +Then why make it? +Yea I had a 225Mer and the pumps were very costly!!! + +Click to expand...","I wouldn't throw any money at it, you still need gaskets , seals etc.probably not worth it" +"I need some help/advice about a 25hp Yamaha. This pastSaturday as I was running back to the ramp at WOT my motor started losing rpm’sall the way to the point it stopped. When I tried to restart it, it wouldn’tturn over – locked up. It wouldn’t turn by electric start or by pull rope.Earlier I had noticed there was no water coming out of the “tattle tale”, I figuredit was just plugged up and I didn’t have anything to unplug it with and figuredit was getting water just not coming out the “tattle tale”. I trolled to thetruck, loaded up and checked to see if the motor would turn after it had cooledoff, it wouldn’t. After getting home about an hour later I pulled the cowlingoff and was able to turn the fly wheel by hand then it would pull and turn overby the rope and starter. I figured I would just unplug the discharge line andit would be fine – WRONG. I disconnected all of the discharge tubing, it wasclear. With it disconnected I hooked up muffs to a water hose and started themotor, it would not put out any water. I pulled the thermostat out and triedit, still no water. Figured my water pump must be fried so it pulled it down.Water pump impeller looked fine, not much if any visible wear, no nicks andseemed to have good memory. The bowl and bottom plate looked good and no blockageor debris found. I could blow air thru the discharge hose and feel it come outthe pipe going from the pump to the head of the motor so no blockage there. Ireinstalled the lower unit and tried it all again with the same results, nowater flow with the thermostat in or out, motor in gear or out, idling or at elevatedrpm’s. Has anyone ever seen this and what should I do to fix it? Could it bethe water pump even though it looks ok? Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Thanks, +HalfFast!","I had a similar problem and it had all he same symptoms as yours, to include blowing air down from the tell-tale to up through the pick up tube from the water pump. And I got air flow and smoke tested it also.. (but probably not enough flow) I took the power head off and all the covers off the water jacket system. There was powdered sediment in there that I had to pick out like a dental cleaning, (but it was not completely blocking anything) but that was not the problem, that was some of the result of the problem I was having. (new pump was also put in, bucket tested the pump before re-install etc. lot of water coming out of the pump . reassembled , same results. Took it apart again ,had the adapterplate laying on a bench with the water pick up tube still in there and noticed somethng had fallen from the top of the pick up tube and got stuck at the opening, It looked like a small washer with a pin hole in the center of it. Picked it out and crushed it between fingers ( it had kinda of dried /glued itself together) and it was the same dried up powder found in the engine, In summary it was a clog at the top of the water pipe. When I ran the motor it would act like a valve/sink stopper and stop waterflow. When compressed air was blown through the tell-tale it would open up a small ;; hole in the center of the clog, etc etc. so you would get air flow which is stronger than the running waterpressure of the pump, thus faking you out. . pulled out the water pick up tube , cleaned it out and it now runs fine. I do not how your motor is designed, so yours may be different.","I had a similar problem and it had all he same symptoms as yours, to include blowing air down from the tell-tale to up through the pick up tube from the water pump. And I got air flow and smoke tested it also.. (but probably not enough flow) I took the power head off and all the covers off the water jacket system. There was powdered sediment in there that I had to pick out like a dental cleaning, (but it was not completely blocking anything) but that was not the problem, that was some of the result of the problem I was having. (new pump was also put in, bucket tested the pump before re-install etc. lot of water coming out of the pump . reassembled , same results. Took it apart again ,had the adapterplate laying on a bench with the water pick up tube still in there and noticed somethng had fallen from the top of the pick up tube and got stuck at the opening, It looked like a small washer with a pin hole in the center of it. Picked it out and crushed it between fingers ( it had kinda of dried /glued itself together) and it was the same dried up powder found in the engine, In summary it was a clog at the top of the water pipe. When I ran the motor it would act like a valve/sink stopper and stop waterflow. When compressed air was blown through the tell-tale it would open up a small ;; hole in the center of the clog, etc etc. so you would get air flow which is stronger than the running waterpressure of the pump, thus faking you out. . pulled out the water pick up tube , cleaned it out and it now runs fine. I do not how your motor is designed, so yours may be different.","Took some more pictures today.. hopefully someone has an idea on whats going on. I tried to raise the motor, and it won't raise. The hydrolic motor just wines... I think it's out of fluid." +"I need some help/advice about a 25hp Yamaha. This pastSaturday as I was running back to the ramp at WOT my motor started losing rpm’sall the way to the point it stopped. When I tried to restart it, it wouldn’tturn over – locked up. It wouldn’t turn by electric start or by pull rope.Earlier I had noticed there was no water coming out of the “tattle tale”, I figuredit was just plugged up and I didn’t have anything to unplug it with and figuredit was getting water just not coming out the “tattle tale”. I trolled to thetruck, loaded up and checked to see if the motor would turn after it had cooledoff, it wouldn’t. After getting home about an hour later I pulled the cowlingoff and was able to turn the fly wheel by hand then it would pull and turn overby the rope and starter. I figured I would just unplug the discharge line andit would be fine – WRONG. I disconnected all of the discharge tubing, it wasclear. With it disconnected I hooked up muffs to a water hose and started themotor, it would not put out any water. I pulled the thermostat out and triedit, still no water. Figured my water pump must be fried so it pulled it down.Water pump impeller looked fine, not much if any visible wear, no nicks andseemed to have good memory. The bowl and bottom plate looked good and no blockageor debris found. I could blow air thru the discharge hose and feel it come outthe pipe going from the pump to the head of the motor so no blockage there. Ireinstalled the lower unit and tried it all again with the same results, nowater flow with the thermostat in or out, motor in gear or out, idling or at elevatedrpm’s. Has anyone ever seen this and what should I do to fix it? Could it bethe water pump even though it looks ok? Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Thanks, +HalfFast!","b521 said: + + + + I had a similar problem and it had all he same symptoms as yours, to include blowing air down from the tell-tale to up through the pick up tube from the water pump. And I got air flow and smoke tested it also.. (but probably not enough flow) I took the power head off and all the covers off the water jacket system. There was powdered sediment in there that I had to pick out like a dental cleaning, (but it was not completely blocking anything) but that was not the problem, that was some of the result of the problem I was having. (new pump was also put in, bucket tested the pump before re-install etc. lot of water coming out of the pump . reassembled , same results. Took it apart again ,had the adapterplate laying on a bench with the water pick up tube still in there and noticed somethng had fallen from the top of the pick up tube and got stuck at the opening, It looked like a small washer with a pin hole in the center of it. Picked it out and crushed it between fingers ( it had kinda of dried /glued itself together) and it was the same dried up powder found in the engine, In summary it was a clog at the top of the water pipe. When I ran the motor it would act like a valve/sink stopper and stop waterflow. When compressed air was blown through the tell-tale it would open up a small ;; hole in the center of the clog, etc etc. so you would get air flow which is stronger than the running waterpressure of the pump, thus faking you out. . pulled out the water pick up tube , cleaned it out and it now runs fine. I do not how your motor is designed, so yours may be different. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you very much for the input!!! That very well could be it as i dont think the water pump is in bad enough shape to not pump anything. It will at least give me something else to look at. I was out of ideas. Does the water tube just pull out from the power head? I will look at that this evening.","b521 said: + + + + I had a similar problem and it had all he same symptoms as yours, to include blowing air down from the tell-tale to up through the pick up tube from the water pump. And I got air flow and smoke tested it also.. (but probably not enough flow) I took the power head off and all the covers off the water jacket system. There was powdered sediment in there that I had to pick out like a dental cleaning, (but it was not completely blocking anything) but that was not the problem, that was some of the result of the problem I was having. (new pump was also put in, bucket tested the pump before re-install etc. lot of water coming out of the pump . reassembled , same results. Took it apart again ,had the adapterplate laying on a bench with the water pick up tube still in there and noticed somethng had fallen from the top of the pick up tube and got stuck at the opening, It looked like a small washer with a pin hole in the center of it. Picked it out and crushed it between fingers ( it had kinda of dried /glued itself together) and it was the same dried up powder found in the engine, In summary it was a clog at the top of the water pipe. When I ran the motor it would act like a valve/sink stopper and stop waterflow. When compressed air was blown through the tell-tale it would open up a small ;; hole in the center of the clog, etc etc. so you would get air flow which is stronger than the running waterpressure of the pump, thus faking you out. . pulled out the water pick up tube , cleaned it out and it now runs fine. I do not how your motor is designed, so yours may be different. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you very much for the input!!! That very well could be it as i dont think the water pump is in bad enough shape to not pump anything. It will at least give me something else to look at. I was out of ideas. Does the water tube just pull out from the power head? I will look at that this evening.","makomark said: + + + + Thats a good one.....from my experience, the fitting on the top of the tube threads into a poly bung on top of the tank so corrosion shouldn't be an issue. If the tube threads into a metal bung/plate setup, you should be able to remove the plate and separate things that way....a picture whould help here... + +Click to expand... + + +May be going to pick boat up from Mechanic tomorrow will get some pictures for you if I do. + +Tank has a metal insert, similar to the tank bushing pictured at the following URL. + +http://www.suremarineservice.com/Heat/Fuel-Tanks-Fuel-Pick-up-tubes-and-Accessories/SS-WTB_2.html + +The existing pickup is threaded into this piece and corroded into place. The nut holding this piece in place would come right off however the pickup and piece would fall into the tank, I am unsure I would be able to get it out given the limited access. + +The pickles I find myself in, lol. + +Jeremy" +"I need some help/advice about a 25hp Yamaha. This pastSaturday as I was running back to the ramp at WOT my motor started losing rpm’sall the way to the point it stopped. When I tried to restart it, it wouldn’tturn over – locked up. It wouldn’t turn by electric start or by pull rope.Earlier I had noticed there was no water coming out of the “tattle tale”, I figuredit was just plugged up and I didn’t have anything to unplug it with and figuredit was getting water just not coming out the “tattle tale”. I trolled to thetruck, loaded up and checked to see if the motor would turn after it had cooledoff, it wouldn’t. After getting home about an hour later I pulled the cowlingoff and was able to turn the fly wheel by hand then it would pull and turn overby the rope and starter. I figured I would just unplug the discharge line andit would be fine – WRONG. I disconnected all of the discharge tubing, it wasclear. With it disconnected I hooked up muffs to a water hose and started themotor, it would not put out any water. I pulled the thermostat out and triedit, still no water. Figured my water pump must be fried so it pulled it down.Water pump impeller looked fine, not much if any visible wear, no nicks andseemed to have good memory. The bowl and bottom plate looked good and no blockageor debris found. I could blow air thru the discharge hose and feel it come outthe pipe going from the pump to the head of the motor so no blockage there. Ireinstalled the lower unit and tried it all again with the same results, nowater flow with the thermostat in or out, motor in gear or out, idling or at elevatedrpm’s. Has anyone ever seen this and what should I do to fix it? Could it bethe water pump even though it looks ok? Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Thanks, +HalfFast!","You know I can't give you a simple answer on that with your engine, I don't know it. I am goind to first caution you to not just go ahead and pull that tube out and you then get stuck having to take more stuff apart and sometimes it don't go back together too easily and you will need to take it to the marina and spend big bucks. But I will give you best answer I can which is a long one, apologies for that ahead of time. +Does the water tube just pull out. That is a double edge sword. Because That is how my problem started. The guy who did the last impeller install accidentally pulled the water tube out. ( I did not know this till I dis-assembled the motor and found the pre-mentioned problem . or I probably would have fixed my motor in way less time. ) so he tried to re-install it from the bottom without taking the power head off. (which can be done on my model, sometimes. ) So what he did was get it cocked out of alignment and only partially into its accepting grommet , and the tube was allowed to bend more than normal cause to get the lower unit to push back up to its position he let the tube bend in the wrong direction where it has more room to bend, rather than getting stopped by the inside wall of the housing and completely helping the tube to push all the way into the grommet. there-by first restricting the flow and creating a pocket for the gunk that gets created from not enough water flow pressure whereas the exhaust pressure allows un burnt oil and gas mixture to back feed into the water system, creating a foamy mud type solution, which when it dries makes a kinda like powder type residue that sticks to the wall of the water system. And in this case was allowed to drain down (when the engine was stopped and put away) to the area described, build up and block, Kinda like blocked heart artery. +In my motor a real good coordinator, Fastjeff, told me that sometimes he gets it in from the bottom or he will turn the motor upside down resting on the flywheel, and he will make up a long screw (maybe a piece of all-thread with a nut on it. And insert it into the water pick up tube and use it as a kinda of a pusher to push it up into the receiving grommet. He uses the pusher cause you can’t get you hand far enough in there to push the tube up and in. +If you don’t know your motor and what is up there,(how it connects to the adapterplate powerhead, you may not want to pull your tube out, If it comes out, I can not tell you how yours is set up. Now if yours is similar to my set up , (you have to understand that mine was doomed by a backasswards previous install so the only way I could fix mine was to dis-assemble everything) . In your case you may be assembled correctly and just have a clog or a piece of debree that can be moved up through that area with some thin wire, meticulassly feeding it in and scraping it loose. All I am saying is I had a similar problem with symptoms such as yours and that is where I found the hidden problem to be. (the important word is “Hidden” and hidden in spite of diagnostic tests demonstrating that there is no problem in that area.)) These outboards can really create mixed confusing symptoms that will lead a good say auto mechanic in the wrong direction. By the way,, in my case I could not find anything that would dissolve that residue, I tried injecting a few things up into it and through the flush inlet with HVAC injection cans, and nothing worked, At least nothing that would not melt my impeller. Used 50/50 dish soap let sit overnight, used kerosene Tri-sodium phosphate oil soap, etc etc. that stuff is like the residue from General motors Dexcool that ruined all their cooling and heater systems when it first came out. +P.S. also on my motor there is a plastic bushing up in the end of the asme area that melts when the motor gets too hot, I seemed to always have some water flow so mine was not melted.","You know I can't give you a simple answer on that with your engine, I don't know it. I am goind to first caution you to not just go ahead and pull that tube out and you then get stuck having to take more stuff apart and sometimes it don't go back together too easily and you will need to take it to the marina and spend big bucks. But I will give you best answer I can which is a long one, apologies for that ahead of time. +Does the water tube just pull out. That is a double edge sword. Because That is how my problem started. The guy who did the last impeller install accidentally pulled the water tube out. ( I did not know this till I dis-assembled the motor and found the pre-mentioned problem . or I probably would have fixed my motor in way less time. ) so he tried to re-install it from the bottom without taking the power head off. (which can be done on my model, sometimes. ) So what he did was get it cocked out of alignment and only partially into its accepting grommet , and the tube was allowed to bend more than normal cause to get the lower unit to push back up to its position he let the tube bend in the wrong direction where it has more room to bend, rather than getting stopped by the inside wall of the housing and completely helping the tube to push all the way into the grommet. there-by first restricting the flow and creating a pocket for the gunk that gets created from not enough water flow pressure whereas the exhaust pressure allows un burnt oil and gas mixture to back feed into the water system, creating a foamy mud type solution, which when it dries makes a kinda like powder type residue that sticks to the wall of the water system. And in this case was allowed to drain down (when the engine was stopped and put away) to the area described, build up and block, Kinda like blocked heart artery. +In my motor a real good coordinator, Fastjeff, told me that sometimes he gets it in from the bottom or he will turn the motor upside down resting on the flywheel, and he will make up a long screw (maybe a piece of all-thread with a nut on it. And insert it into the water pick up tube and use it as a kinda of a pusher to push it up into the receiving grommet. He uses the pusher cause you can’t get you hand far enough in there to push the tube up and in. +If you don’t know your motor and what is up there,(how it connects to the adapterplate powerhead, you may not want to pull your tube out, If it comes out, I can not tell you how yours is set up. Now if yours is similar to my set up , (you have to understand that mine was doomed by a backasswards previous install so the only way I could fix mine was to dis-assemble everything) . In your case you may be assembled correctly and just have a clog or a piece of debree that can be moved up through that area with some thin wire, meticulassly feeding it in and scraping it loose. All I am saying is I had a similar problem with symptoms such as yours and that is where I found the hidden problem to be. (the important word is “Hidden” and hidden in spite of diagnostic tests demonstrating that there is no problem in that area.)) These outboards can really create mixed confusing symptoms that will lead a good say auto mechanic in the wrong direction. By the way,, in my case I could not find anything that would dissolve that residue, I tried injecting a few things up into it and through the flush inlet with HVAC injection cans, and nothing worked, At least nothing that would not melt my impeller. Used 50/50 dish soap let sit overnight, used kerosene Tri-sodium phosphate oil soap, etc etc. that stuff is like the residue from General motors Dexcool that ruined all their cooling and heater systems when it first came out. +P.S. also on my motor there is a plastic bushing up in the end of the asme area that melts when the motor gets too hot, I seemed to always have some water flow so mine was not melted.",Thought I would post the eventual issue in case someone else is searching this. Turns out I had the gasket on the wrong side of the plate. Duh +"I need some help/advice about a 25hp Yamaha. This pastSaturday as I was running back to the ramp at WOT my motor started losing rpm’sall the way to the point it stopped. When I tried to restart it, it wouldn’tturn over – locked up. It wouldn’t turn by electric start or by pull rope.Earlier I had noticed there was no water coming out of the “tattle tale”, I figuredit was just plugged up and I didn’t have anything to unplug it with and figuredit was getting water just not coming out the “tattle tale”. I trolled to thetruck, loaded up and checked to see if the motor would turn after it had cooledoff, it wouldn’t. After getting home about an hour later I pulled the cowlingoff and was able to turn the fly wheel by hand then it would pull and turn overby the rope and starter. I figured I would just unplug the discharge line andit would be fine – WRONG. I disconnected all of the discharge tubing, it wasclear. With it disconnected I hooked up muffs to a water hose and started themotor, it would not put out any water. I pulled the thermostat out and triedit, still no water. Figured my water pump must be fried so it pulled it down.Water pump impeller looked fine, not much if any visible wear, no nicks andseemed to have good memory. The bowl and bottom plate looked good and no blockageor debris found. I could blow air thru the discharge hose and feel it come outthe pipe going from the pump to the head of the motor so no blockage there. Ireinstalled the lower unit and tried it all again with the same results, nowater flow with the thermostat in or out, motor in gear or out, idling or at elevatedrpm’s. Has anyone ever seen this and what should I do to fix it? Could it bethe water pump even though it looks ok? Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Thanks, +HalfFast!","Alright. Thanks for the heads up. I owned a 94' Mercury 150 and used to change the water pumps in it yearly just for good measure and the water tube in it slid into/through a rubber grommet on the bottom of the power head. Maybe this one will be the same way but with the words of advice I will proceed with extreme caution. + +Thanks again for your input!!","Alright. Thanks for the heads up. I owned a 94' Mercury 150 and used to change the water pumps in it yearly just for good measure and the water tube in it slid into/through a rubber grommet on the bottom of the power head. Maybe this one will be the same way but with the words of advice I will proceed with extreme caution. + +Thanks again for your input!!","aliboy said: + + + + Just as an aside - are all the F150 owners aware of the balancer issues and what to watch out for? + +Click to expand... + + +Balancer Issue? what should we be aware of with this? thanks + +kevin" +"I need some help/advice about a 25hp Yamaha. This pastSaturday as I was running back to the ramp at WOT my motor started losing rpm’sall the way to the point it stopped. When I tried to restart it, it wouldn’tturn over – locked up. It wouldn’t turn by electric start or by pull rope.Earlier I had noticed there was no water coming out of the “tattle tale”, I figuredit was just plugged up and I didn’t have anything to unplug it with and figuredit was getting water just not coming out the “tattle tale”. I trolled to thetruck, loaded up and checked to see if the motor would turn after it had cooledoff, it wouldn’t. After getting home about an hour later I pulled the cowlingoff and was able to turn the fly wheel by hand then it would pull and turn overby the rope and starter. I figured I would just unplug the discharge line andit would be fine – WRONG. I disconnected all of the discharge tubing, it wasclear. With it disconnected I hooked up muffs to a water hose and started themotor, it would not put out any water. I pulled the thermostat out and triedit, still no water. Figured my water pump must be fried so it pulled it down.Water pump impeller looked fine, not much if any visible wear, no nicks andseemed to have good memory. The bowl and bottom plate looked good and no blockageor debris found. I could blow air thru the discharge hose and feel it come outthe pipe going from the pump to the head of the motor so no blockage there. Ireinstalled the lower unit and tried it all again with the same results, nowater flow with the thermostat in or out, motor in gear or out, idling or at elevatedrpm’s. Has anyone ever seen this and what should I do to fix it? Could it bethe water pump even though it looks ok? Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Thanks, +HalfFast!",sounds like you understood that long wordy post perfectly. I had to put a lot of cautions in it so I would not mess you up on my long shot guess for an answer. I found that even when someone tries to answer me here in the forum that although they may not be exactly spot on with the problem they however enabled me to look at other ideas and in the process I was fortunate to find the problem. good luck keep me posted. may buy a yahama some day. never know.,sounds like you understood that long wordy post perfectly. I had to put a lot of cautions in it so I would not mess you up on my long shot guess for an answer. I found that even when someone tries to answer me here in the forum that although they may not be exactly spot on with the problem they however enabled me to look at other ideas and in the process I was fortunate to find the problem. good luck keep me posted. may buy a yahama some day. never know.,"Chris79 said: + + + + Still running like a dream Gary. Around 10 hrs use now. + +I emailed a technical advice guy in the US about it (sells performance parts for outboards) and his response was.. + +""One thing is for sure, you will not damage either the ECU or any other part. Maximum you will detect flat spot when throttling or throttle response will spoil if the air is too much."" + +Thats as far as Ive gotten with info since last post, but someone has told me the ECU can be re-programmed with the 60HP data. Can't confirm this and dont really think it will make much difference. + +The restrictor is staying out of my engine. + +Click to expand... + + +couple of questions for you. did you shim when you took out the restricter plate and how is your idle quality. i have a 50 hp efi bigfoot and i put a 60 ecu in it with no change. just need some ideas to make it a 60." +"I need some help/advice about a 25hp Yamaha. This pastSaturday as I was running back to the ramp at WOT my motor started losing rpm’sall the way to the point it stopped. When I tried to restart it, it wouldn’tturn over – locked up. It wouldn’t turn by electric start or by pull rope.Earlier I had noticed there was no water coming out of the “tattle tale”, I figuredit was just plugged up and I didn’t have anything to unplug it with and figuredit was getting water just not coming out the “tattle tale”. I trolled to thetruck, loaded up and checked to see if the motor would turn after it had cooledoff, it wouldn’t. After getting home about an hour later I pulled the cowlingoff and was able to turn the fly wheel by hand then it would pull and turn overby the rope and starter. I figured I would just unplug the discharge line andit would be fine – WRONG. I disconnected all of the discharge tubing, it wasclear. With it disconnected I hooked up muffs to a water hose and started themotor, it would not put out any water. I pulled the thermostat out and triedit, still no water. Figured my water pump must be fried so it pulled it down.Water pump impeller looked fine, not much if any visible wear, no nicks andseemed to have good memory. The bowl and bottom plate looked good and no blockageor debris found. I could blow air thru the discharge hose and feel it come outthe pipe going from the pump to the head of the motor so no blockage there. Ireinstalled the lower unit and tried it all again with the same results, nowater flow with the thermostat in or out, motor in gear or out, idling or at elevatedrpm’s. Has anyone ever seen this and what should I do to fix it? Could it bethe water pump even though it looks ok? Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Thanks, +HalfFast!","b521, Thanks for your help! My motor is fixed. It wasn't the same thing that was wrong with yours but you gave me something else to look at that led to finding the problem. I'll try to explain, evidently I my motor had been set up to fail kind of the same way yours was - (by a previous mechanic doing a shotty job replacing the water pump). After dropping the lower unit again, I got the motor in a position where i could look thru the water tube to the head of the motor - AHA, there it was, pushed up the water tube a few inches was a rubber grommet. This grommet is supposed to go into the discharge of the water pump housing and the tube inserted thru it when assembled. Evidently when the water pump was replaced before I purchased the motor, the mechanic had not noticed the grommet and when the water pump was reinstalled the grommet was just pushed up the water tube but was still in contact enough to allow for enough of a seal to force water thru the motor. Evidently after quite a while the grommet had worked itself far enough up the tube that it finally lost the ability to seal and force any water thru the motor. When pulling the lower unit myself the first time i failed to notice the grommet myself as it had pushed so far up the water tube, the water pumps I had worked on before used an o-ring inside the pump housing to seal the water tube and I assumed this one was the same and did not check it. My bad. With your input and at least having something else to look at, I found it!! After reinstalling the grommet back into the pump housing and reinstalling the lower unit everything works great! I could even use my discharge hose for a wash down hose now! LOL. + +Sorry for such a long post but I wanted to try to explain what my actual problem was in case it may help someone else down the road. + + +b521 Thanks again for your input!","b521, Thanks for your help! My motor is fixed. It wasn't the same thing that was wrong with yours but you gave me something else to look at that led to finding the problem. I'll try to explain, evidently I my motor had been set up to fail kind of the same way yours was - (by a previous mechanic doing a shotty job replacing the water pump). After dropping the lower unit again, I got the motor in a position where i could look thru the water tube to the head of the motor - AHA, there it was, pushed up the water tube a few inches was a rubber grommet. This grommet is supposed to go into the discharge of the water pump housing and the tube inserted thru it when assembled. Evidently when the water pump was replaced before I purchased the motor, the mechanic had not noticed the grommet and when the water pump was reinstalled the grommet was just pushed up the water tube but was still in contact enough to allow for enough of a seal to force water thru the motor. Evidently after quite a while the grommet had worked itself far enough up the tube that it finally lost the ability to seal and force any water thru the motor. When pulling the lower unit myself the first time i failed to notice the grommet myself as it had pushed so far up the water tube, the water pumps I had worked on before used an o-ring inside the pump housing to seal the water tube and I assumed this one was the same and did not check it. My bad. With your input and at least having something else to look at, I found it!! After reinstalling the grommet back into the pump housing and reinstalling the lower unit everything works great! I could even use my discharge hose for a wash down hose now! LOL. + +Sorry for such a long post but I wanted to try to explain what my actual problem was in case it may help someone else down the road. + + +b521 Thanks again for your input!","The first diagram scares me to some extent...... + +first off, you need the tow package to get full functionality out of a 7 pin connector on the truck - + +second, I'd suggest you use a battery and a couple jumpers and verify the trailer wiring - for colors and integrity....not everybody uses ""the standard"" + +Then, verify the desired functions on the truck and note their location(s) on the connector pins + +Ideally, the ""color standard"" will have been followed and the pin utilizations as well...if not, one side will have to have wires relocated to match the other. + +The benefit to using the 'standards' is knowing the hookup will work the first time you plug things together. + +Finally, to remove ambiguity, one typically has to specify the connector orientation on a pin out diagram as things get mirrored when you look ""from the other end""." +"I need some help/advice about a 25hp Yamaha. This pastSaturday as I was running back to the ramp at WOT my motor started losing rpm’sall the way to the point it stopped. When I tried to restart it, it wouldn’tturn over – locked up. It wouldn’t turn by electric start or by pull rope.Earlier I had noticed there was no water coming out of the “tattle tale”, I figuredit was just plugged up and I didn’t have anything to unplug it with and figuredit was getting water just not coming out the “tattle tale”. I trolled to thetruck, loaded up and checked to see if the motor would turn after it had cooledoff, it wouldn’t. After getting home about an hour later I pulled the cowlingoff and was able to turn the fly wheel by hand then it would pull and turn overby the rope and starter. I figured I would just unplug the discharge line andit would be fine – WRONG. I disconnected all of the discharge tubing, it wasclear. With it disconnected I hooked up muffs to a water hose and started themotor, it would not put out any water. I pulled the thermostat out and triedit, still no water. Figured my water pump must be fried so it pulled it down.Water pump impeller looked fine, not much if any visible wear, no nicks andseemed to have good memory. The bowl and bottom plate looked good and no blockageor debris found. I could blow air thru the discharge hose and feel it come outthe pipe going from the pump to the head of the motor so no blockage there. Ireinstalled the lower unit and tried it all again with the same results, nowater flow with the thermostat in or out, motor in gear or out, idling or at elevatedrpm’s. Has anyone ever seen this and what should I do to fix it? Could it bethe water pump even though it looks ok? Any help would be greatly appreciated. +Thanks, +HalfFast!","Way to go Halfast +On a lil bit of a stretch the problems are quite similar and relatively at the same source, (just different ends of it ) and most importantly they produced the same symptoms of trouble. which is why I answered you, as when I had my problem, a lot of people tried but no one could quite put their finger on it. it took a lot of playing around untill finally that lil washer type thing fell out of my tube. Lessons to be learned is these outboards make it so you have to check things that you take for granted in say automotive repair diagnosis. Especially these freakin impeller systems. At first I wondered who in the heck invented this gizmo, why do they still use it and why do all outboards use them. actually it is a nice gizmo, (It is a combination of a circulation and a pressure pump so as it can push water upward, very sophisticated indeed) but formerly I was thinking well why the heck do they not give you easier access to it, (like a cover opening/door into the housing. and maybe run it off of a gear takeoff so you don't have to disconnect drive shaft and shift rod ect etc. ) yes I know some of the answers, such a streamlined profile through the water, lightweight, and it has to be low so as to be constantly primed and wet/lubed, and the impeller was designed for a pump to be able to deal with sand, mud, and seaweed/algie etc and still be able to work. Well it has been around for a gazillion years so guess I can't question it, just understand it and keep it in good operating condition.","Way to go Halfast +On a lil bit of a stretch the problems are quite similar and relatively at the same source, (just different ends of it ) and most importantly they produced the same symptoms of trouble. which is why I answered you, as when I had my problem, a lot of people tried but no one could quite put their finger on it. it took a lot of playing around untill finally that lil washer type thing fell out of my tube. Lessons to be learned is these outboards make it so you have to check things that you take for granted in say automotive repair diagnosis. Especially these freakin impeller systems. At first I wondered who in the heck invented this gizmo, why do they still use it and why do all outboards use them. actually it is a nice gizmo, (It is a combination of a circulation and a pressure pump so as it can push water upward, very sophisticated indeed) but formerly I was thinking well why the heck do they not give you easier access to it, (like a cover opening/door into the housing. and maybe run it off of a gear takeoff so you don't have to disconnect drive shaft and shift rod ect etc. ) yes I know some of the answers, such a streamlined profile through the water, lightweight, and it has to be low so as to be constantly primed and wet/lubed, and the impeller was designed for a pump to be able to deal with sand, mud, and seaweed/algie etc and still be able to work. Well it has been around for a gazillion years so guess I can't question it, just understand it and keep it in good operating condition.","Precision blend! + +I pumped the tank today, and buttoned it up for the winter. + +It's a plastic tank, about 30 years old. I'm positive it sat for a few years. + +I think it's time to replace it, which should be an adventure on its own." +"I have a 1999 200 HP Yamaha. The other day it ran rough. Top end OK for about 20 Seconds, then bogs down and dies. Wants to surge at 3/4 Throttle also. Suspect O2 sensor, pulled and cleaned. Checked Fuel system such as filters and they were OK, When priming my Water separator I had noticed Fuel leaking coming out of the Prop exhaust and my bulb would not get hard. I had thought it was jus spillage coming from the cowling section after draining the silver thing... Went to start the motor and it acted like it was locked up. Pulled plugs, cranked motor and fuel blew out the top 2 cylinders....Swapped bulbs and same issue...So, what is happening. Also when at idle I can prime the bulb and flood engine. This does not happen on my other motor...What do you think? +Thanks","Model# Serial# +Carb or FI? +Sounds like the fuel pumps diaphragm is shot? +The floats need adjusting?","Model# Serial# +Carb or FI? +Sounds like the fuel pumps diaphragm is shot? +The floats need adjusting?","So If i were looking for a bilge pump would I cut out some of the floor, I am researching online and not getting much as far as adding or locating the pump any information to point me in the right direction would he much appreciated , sorry if these questions seem stupid this is my first actual boat its been a learning curve" +"I have a 1999 200 HP Yamaha. The other day it ran rough. Top end OK for about 20 Seconds, then bogs down and dies. Wants to surge at 3/4 Throttle also. Suspect O2 sensor, pulled and cleaned. Checked Fuel system such as filters and they were OK, When priming my Water separator I had noticed Fuel leaking coming out of the Prop exhaust and my bulb would not get hard. I had thought it was jus spillage coming from the cowling section after draining the silver thing... Went to start the motor and it acted like it was locked up. Pulled plugs, cranked motor and fuel blew out the top 2 cylinders....Swapped bulbs and same issue...So, what is happening. Also when at idle I can prime the bulb and flood engine. This does not happen on my other motor...What do you think? +Thanks",It is a Saltwater series not sure the serial number at this time. I will look into these ideas and follow up with the solution. Thanks for the insight,It is a Saltwater series not sure the serial number at this time. I will look into these ideas and follow up with the solution. Thanks for the insight,"Hi Bondo, +Contacted an old work colleague who has repaired th hole with the TIG. Understand there is the likelyhood of another hole in the future. Do you know of a more longterm repair ie replacing centre of hull were corrosion is at it's worst. Regards." +"1989 Yamaha 50HP long shaft. +Motor has run very strong for past 3 years. +Took it out the other day. Had a very hard time starting. Cranked on and off for probably 5 min trying to get it running. + +Once it started and warmed up took off to our favorite fishing hole approx 2 minutes away. Motor ran fine. Lots of power as always. + +Started up again fine. Took off and planned out, when motor began to loose power and sputter and run rough. +Lowered my RPM and it began to run fine again. +Again, up on plane, and within 10 seconds power was lost again. Back to idle and it ran fine. + +Thought maybe it was missfiring, but as i removed each spark plug wire, the motor ran differently with each one, so i wasnt able to pinpoint which cylinder was the problem. + +Here is a link to my youtube video of what its doing. + +http://youtu.be/ojTMLisLPhs + +any thoughts? + +Thanks in advance","Could be a fuel issue and not electrical. As the RPMs increases, the motor requires more fuel. If there is a problem anywhere in the fuel delivery system, the motor may be starving for fuel at higher RPMs and be receiving enough at lower RPMs, hence smoother operation. Suggest you look to your fuel system, including filters, pumps, degraded lines, dirt, fuel contamination or leaks.","Could be a fuel issue and not electrical. As the RPMs increases, the motor requires more fuel. If there is a problem anywhere in the fuel delivery system, the motor may be starving for fuel at higher RPMs and be receiving enough at lower RPMs, hence smoother operation. Suggest you look to your fuel system, including filters, pumps, degraded lines, dirt, fuel contamination or leaks.",You have to go to a host sharing site and download your photo there. Then link that site to here. +"1989 Yamaha 50HP long shaft. +Motor has run very strong for past 3 years. +Took it out the other day. Had a very hard time starting. Cranked on and off for probably 5 min trying to get it running. + +Once it started and warmed up took off to our favorite fishing hole approx 2 minutes away. Motor ran fine. Lots of power as always. + +Started up again fine. Took off and planned out, when motor began to loose power and sputter and run rough. +Lowered my RPM and it began to run fine again. +Again, up on plane, and within 10 seconds power was lost again. Back to idle and it ran fine. + +Thought maybe it was missfiring, but as i removed each spark plug wire, the motor ran differently with each one, so i wasnt able to pinpoint which cylinder was the problem. + +Here is a link to my youtube video of what its doing. + +http://youtu.be/ojTMLisLPhs + +any thoughts? + +Thanks in advance","Model? +Compression? +Rebuild the fuel pump. +Clean the carbs? +While the carb is off check the reeds. +You using Ethanol in the fuel? +It can melt the inside of the fuel lines.","Model? +Compression? +Rebuild the fuel pump. +Clean the carbs? +While the carb is off check the reeds. +You using Ethanol in the fuel? +It can melt the inside of the fuel lines.",thanks for info but cant open link.?? +"On my way back in last night, I was in an area of the lake I'm unfamiliar with and found myself too close to shore. Hit a submerged stump at nearly full throttle before I could veer into deeper water. Powerhead is seemingly fine, but the prop will not engage when put in gear. I took the motor off the boat today and laid it down. I removed the prop hoping it was a shear pin, but now I know this motor does not have one (splined shaft). I could spin the prop in forward and could feel/hear gears turning inside. However, I could not shift it into reverse-- the shift lever just refused to go backward. + +At this point, I'm planning to take off the lower unit to see what's bent/broken/etc. A few questions: + +1. Any guesses on what the problem might be and/or what I ought to be looking for? + +2. Any words of caution or other ""hey, watch out for X"" specifically pertaining to the lower unit removal of this outboard? + +3. While I have the thing disassembled, what maintenance should I get done in addition to (hopefully) fixing the original problem? + +Thanks so much for taking the time to read my post and offer any suggestions. + +Cheers.",It's also worth noting that the gearcase and prop have no visible damage and the oil is contained with no leaks. This seems especially lucky since the strike was hard enough to tilt the motor completely out of the water. I had to push it back down.,It's also worth noting that the gearcase and prop have no visible damage and the oil is contained with no leaks. This seems especially lucky since the strike was hard enough to tilt the motor completely out of the water. I had to push it back down.,"ram95 said: + + + + If I put it in gear and quickly open the throttle while holding three fingers over the air intake it winds right up. If I don't put my fingers over the intake it falls on its nose and quits. + +Click to expand... + + +Citing your statement above...when you cover the air intake you richen the mix (more fuel, less air), and the motor responds. I'm not familiar with your carb, but I recon it should have a idle mix screw. This screw has a specific ""turn out"" spec. This spec is found in your service manual. + +With the engine off, turn in the screw gently until it seats. Note the number of turns. Let's say it took 1 full turn in to seat. Then turn out the screw 3/4. Start engine and see how it responds. The more you turn in the screw the more you richen the mix. Just like putting your hand over the intake, except more precise of course. Make your adjustments to the idle mix screw small, 1/4 turns at a time." +"On my way back in last night, I was in an area of the lake I'm unfamiliar with and found myself too close to shore. Hit a submerged stump at nearly full throttle before I could veer into deeper water. Powerhead is seemingly fine, but the prop will not engage when put in gear. I took the motor off the boat today and laid it down. I removed the prop hoping it was a shear pin, but now I know this motor does not have one (splined shaft). I could spin the prop in forward and could feel/hear gears turning inside. However, I could not shift it into reverse-- the shift lever just refused to go backward. + +At this point, I'm planning to take off the lower unit to see what's bent/broken/etc. A few questions: + +1. Any guesses on what the problem might be and/or what I ought to be looking for? + +2. Any words of caution or other ""hey, watch out for X"" specifically pertaining to the lower unit removal of this outboard? + +3. While I have the thing disassembled, what maintenance should I get done in addition to (hopefully) fixing the original problem? + +Thanks so much for taking the time to read my post and offer any suggestions. + +Cheers.","Is this a tiller motor or throttle control? + +best is to drop the lower unit, I bet u bent the shift shaft, if not it could have flattened your clutch dog","Is this a tiller motor or throttle control? + +best is to drop the lower unit, I bet u bent the shift shaft, if not it could have flattened your clutch dog","Ok. Now what size? I've,did some research. Should I drill new smaller holes for the rivets? Or should I put them into the existing screw holes which are 1/4"" minimum?" +"On my way back in last night, I was in an area of the lake I'm unfamiliar with and found myself too close to shore. Hit a submerged stump at nearly full throttle before I could veer into deeper water. Powerhead is seemingly fine, but the prop will not engage when put in gear. I took the motor off the boat today and laid it down. I removed the prop hoping it was a shear pin, but now I know this motor does not have one (splined shaft). I could spin the prop in forward and could feel/hear gears turning inside. However, I could not shift it into reverse-- the shift lever just refused to go backward. + +At this point, I'm planning to take off the lower unit to see what's bent/broken/etc. A few questions: + +1. Any guesses on what the problem might be and/or what I ought to be looking for? + +2. Any words of caution or other ""hey, watch out for X"" specifically pertaining to the lower unit removal of this outboard? + +3. While I have the thing disassembled, what maintenance should I get done in addition to (hopefully) fixing the original problem? + +Thanks so much for taking the time to read my post and offer any suggestions. + +Cheers.","Thanks for the reply, @justintime! Yep, tiller handle. I'll keep an eye out for both of those problems and repost afterward to let you know. Still likely a few days out from getting to this project so if anyone has any other thoughts/comments, lemme know! Much appreciated.","Thanks for the reply, @justintime! Yep, tiller handle. I'll keep an eye out for both of those problems and repost afterward to let you know. Still likely a few days out from getting to this project so if anyone has any other thoughts/comments, lemme know! Much appreciated.","Only way to tell is to remove in and bang, then grind the rust off and see how much metal you have. It will be a judgement call. Certainly replace the bolts." +"On my way back in last night, I was in an area of the lake I'm unfamiliar with and found myself too close to shore. Hit a submerged stump at nearly full throttle before I could veer into deeper water. Powerhead is seemingly fine, but the prop will not engage when put in gear. I took the motor off the boat today and laid it down. I removed the prop hoping it was a shear pin, but now I know this motor does not have one (splined shaft). I could spin the prop in forward and could feel/hear gears turning inside. However, I could not shift it into reverse-- the shift lever just refused to go backward. + +At this point, I'm planning to take off the lower unit to see what's bent/broken/etc. A few questions: + +1. Any guesses on what the problem might be and/or what I ought to be looking for? + +2. Any words of caution or other ""hey, watch out for X"" specifically pertaining to the lower unit removal of this outboard? + +3. While I have the thing disassembled, what maintenance should I get done in addition to (hopefully) fixing the original problem? + +Thanks so much for taking the time to read my post and offer any suggestions. + +Cheers.",Got it apart and found a sheared drive shaft at the pinion gear. Thanks for the thread views and replies. Cheers.,Got it apart and found a sheared drive shaft at the pinion gear. Thanks for the thread views and replies. Cheers.,"ourgang said: + + + + ... P.S. I rang out the sw. and it's good.... + +Click to expand... + + +If you did that test with a multimeter on the ohms scale, you didn't prove out anything....you need to test the switch with much higher current (amps, not milliamps) to verify it. + +the purple wire getting 'hot' means a bad connection or a bad wire..." +"On my way back in last night, I was in an area of the lake I'm unfamiliar with and found myself too close to shore. Hit a submerged stump at nearly full throttle before I could veer into deeper water. Powerhead is seemingly fine, but the prop will not engage when put in gear. I took the motor off the boat today and laid it down. I removed the prop hoping it was a shear pin, but now I know this motor does not have one (splined shaft). I could spin the prop in forward and could feel/hear gears turning inside. However, I could not shift it into reverse-- the shift lever just refused to go backward. + +At this point, I'm planning to take off the lower unit to see what's bent/broken/etc. A few questions: + +1. Any guesses on what the problem might be and/or what I ought to be looking for? + +2. Any words of caution or other ""hey, watch out for X"" specifically pertaining to the lower unit removal of this outboard? + +3. While I have the thing disassembled, what maintenance should I get done in addition to (hopefully) fixing the original problem? + +Thanks so much for taking the time to read my post and offer any suggestions. + +Cheers.","Also, here's a link for the F9.9 & T9.9 service manual just in case this can help someone else: + +https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6B...Zjc5LTkzN2YtZWJmOWRkNzk2ODJk/edit?hl=en&pli=1","Also, here's a link for the F9.9 & T9.9 service manual just in case this can help someone else: + +https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6B...Zjc5LTkzN2YtZWJmOWRkNzk2ODJk/edit?hl=en&pli=1",Most engines come with a power cable connecting to the starters solenoid +"On my way back in last night, I was in an area of the lake I'm unfamiliar with and found myself too close to shore. Hit a submerged stump at nearly full throttle before I could veer into deeper water. Powerhead is seemingly fine, but the prop will not engage when put in gear. I took the motor off the boat today and laid it down. I removed the prop hoping it was a shear pin, but now I know this motor does not have one (splined shaft). I could spin the prop in forward and could feel/hear gears turning inside. However, I could not shift it into reverse-- the shift lever just refused to go backward. + +At this point, I'm planning to take off the lower unit to see what's bent/broken/etc. A few questions: + +1. Any guesses on what the problem might be and/or what I ought to be looking for? + +2. Any words of caution or other ""hey, watch out for X"" specifically pertaining to the lower unit removal of this outboard? + +3. While I have the thing disassembled, what maintenance should I get done in addition to (hopefully) fixing the original problem? + +Thanks so much for taking the time to read my post and offer any suggestions. + +Cheers.","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Be sure and check the gear backlash before you put it into service. +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=020F6DfPyog +This is a good video you can apply to most gearboxes. The way I do it is line the high spots on the gear either forward or reverse and with firm pressure on the shifter you can test the lash for each gear without the water pump unless the pump housing also is the pinion height adjustment. The worst mistake is to have the backlash too close the gears will cook in no time. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the heads up as well as the video, @kimcrwbr1. If the backlash is inside or outside the tolerance discussed in the video (3/32""), how is that remedied?","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Be sure and check the gear backlash before you put it into service. +http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=020F6DfPyog +This is a good video you can apply to most gearboxes. The way I do it is line the high spots on the gear either forward or reverse and with firm pressure on the shifter you can test the lash for each gear without the water pump unless the pump housing also is the pinion height adjustment. The worst mistake is to have the backlash too close the gears will cook in no time. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the heads up as well as the video, @kimcrwbr1. If the backlash is inside or outside the tolerance discussed in the video (3/32""), how is that remedied?",I just removed the camshaft and check for the intake valves. They are all moving freely. My motor is a 2003 with carbs. I think it's a bad sensor. The manual shows an electrothermal valve for my motor that I could not find it. This electrothermal valve feeds to the CDI. I might have to cut up the shield for the harness to find out where it goes. I took the oil pressure sensor from my bad motor and put in my good motor and it runs fine. however I took a resistant measurements and they both have different measurements. I installed the oil pressure sensor from my running motor into the bad motor but I have not start the bad motor up yet. I am waiting for the thermostat to come back and check it again to see if that's the problem. +"On my way back in last night, I was in an area of the lake I'm unfamiliar with and found myself too close to shore. Hit a submerged stump at nearly full throttle before I could veer into deeper water. Powerhead is seemingly fine, but the prop will not engage when put in gear. I took the motor off the boat today and laid it down. I removed the prop hoping it was a shear pin, but now I know this motor does not have one (splined shaft). I could spin the prop in forward and could feel/hear gears turning inside. However, I could not shift it into reverse-- the shift lever just refused to go backward. + +At this point, I'm planning to take off the lower unit to see what's bent/broken/etc. A few questions: + +1. Any guesses on what the problem might be and/or what I ought to be looking for? + +2. Any words of caution or other ""hey, watch out for X"" specifically pertaining to the lower unit removal of this outboard? + +3. While I have the thing disassembled, what maintenance should I get done in addition to (hopefully) fixing the original problem? + +Thanks so much for taking the time to read my post and offer any suggestions. + +Cheers.","Getting the "" backlash "" correct is very important.-----------------Getting proper "" tooth contact "" is even more important , in fact very important !!!","Getting the "" backlash "" correct is very important.-----------------Getting proper "" tooth contact "" is even more important , in fact very important !!!",Time to inspect the impeller and the housing for wear. +"On my way back in last night, I was in an area of the lake I'm unfamiliar with and found myself too close to shore. Hit a submerged stump at nearly full throttle before I could veer into deeper water. Powerhead is seemingly fine, but the prop will not engage when put in gear. I took the motor off the boat today and laid it down. I removed the prop hoping it was a shear pin, but now I know this motor does not have one (splined shaft). I could spin the prop in forward and could feel/hear gears turning inside. However, I could not shift it into reverse-- the shift lever just refused to go backward. + +At this point, I'm planning to take off the lower unit to see what's bent/broken/etc. A few questions: + +1. Any guesses on what the problem might be and/or what I ought to be looking for? + +2. Any words of caution or other ""hey, watch out for X"" specifically pertaining to the lower unit removal of this outboard? + +3. While I have the thing disassembled, what maintenance should I get done in addition to (hopefully) fixing the original problem? + +Thanks so much for taking the time to read my post and offer any suggestions. + +Cheers.","Yes, seals & gaskets are on the way along with the drive shaft and a new impeller. Should be here by Friday (12/12) or the following Monday. Safe to say, I'll be re-reading all this great advice and looking very closely at everything once again. At the very least, you'll hear from me one more time when I post a working motor on this thread, but don't be surprised if you see more questions first! This is my first time in a lower unit so I am eating up all you've got to say, folks. Much appreciated.","Yes, seals & gaskets are on the way along with the drive shaft and a new impeller. Should be here by Friday (12/12) or the following Monday. Safe to say, I'll be re-reading all this great advice and looking very closely at everything once again. At the very least, you'll hear from me one more time when I post a working motor on this thread, but don't be surprised if you see more questions first! This is my first time in a lower unit so I am eating up all you've got to say, folks. Much appreciated.","Fuel flow restriction somewhere. Your diaphram pump can fill the carbs with fuel and she'll run strong until the carbs are drained then she chokes and is fuel starved... throttle back and the carbs fill again ready for another push until that fuel is burned off. Check adn change all filters you have along the way and remember there may be a filter on the fuel pick-up line that sits on the bottom of your gas tank that is clogged. Many don't know that before the Racor filter (if you have one), before the under cowling filter and all the others that may be in line beyond that... there may be that stupid filter on your tank pick-up line installed by the boat manufacturer purely for warranty reasons in case they left some crap in the tank when it left the factory. If there is a filter on that pick-up... pull it off and throw it away as it never should have been put there and is not needed with all the other filters along the way." +Hello to the group and good day. This motor is off my boat and on a stand in my garage. I would like to turn the motor over on the starter but the controls are still on my boat. Is there a wiring sequence for the starter to by-pass the switch on the controls? I think that the starter should engage if certain connections on the starter are grounded out but I did not want to damage something important while attempting this risky exercise although I did this routinely on my old Chev truck. I think that the connections were from the battery cable to the solenoid post. Thanks in advance.,If the main power cables are all connected you just need to put +12V on the solenoid operating terminal. I would remove the spark plugs and keep clear of the plug wires.,If the main power cables are all connected you just need to put +12V on the solenoid operating terminal. I would remove the spark plugs and keep clear of the plug wires.,"37 psi at idle is plenty. I would assume the high pressure pump is fine. + +If you can still pump the bulb and it works better, there has to be a leak somewhere." +Hello to the group and good day. This motor is off my boat and on a stand in my garage. I would like to turn the motor over on the starter but the controls are still on my boat. Is there a wiring sequence for the starter to by-pass the switch on the controls? I think that the starter should engage if certain connections on the starter are grounded out but I did not want to damage something important while attempting this risky exercise although I did this routinely on my old Chev truck. I think that the connections were from the battery cable to the solenoid post. Thanks in advance.,Thanks for the post. The next challenge is to locate the solenoid. There are a series of relays mounted close to the starter but do not seem to be connected to it. I'll check the manual.,Thanks for the post. The next challenge is to locate the solenoid. There are a series of relays mounted close to the starter but do not seem to be connected to it. I'll check the manual.,"oops! +just noticed a typo in my post, I should have said ""so i do not wish to use a rule float switch""" +Hello to the group and good day. This motor is off my boat and on a stand in my garage. I would like to turn the motor over on the starter but the controls are still on my boat. Is there a wiring sequence for the starter to by-pass the switch on the controls? I think that the starter should engage if certain connections on the starter are grounded out but I did not want to damage something important while attempting this risky exercise although I did this routinely on my old Chev truck. I think that the connections were from the battery cable to the solenoid post. Thanks in advance.,"Follow the large red cable from the starter motor terminal to the solenoid. It will probably be only a few inches long. The solenoid will have at least two large cables on it and one or two small wires. The large cables are the +ve from the battery and the +ve feed to the starter motor (the one you followed to the solenoid). There is likely two small wires on the solenoid. One probably black that is the earth wire, and another one that might be yellow, or purple (or any other colour) that is the +ve from your key switch to operate the solenoid when you turn the key. Disconnect this wire and apply +12v from the battery to this terminal via a separate wire.","Follow the large red cable from the starter motor terminal to the solenoid. It will probably be only a few inches long. The solenoid will have at least two large cables on it and one or two small wires. The large cables are the +ve from the battery and the +ve feed to the starter motor (the one you followed to the solenoid). There is likely two small wires on the solenoid. One probably black that is the earth wire, and another one that might be yellow, or purple (or any other colour) that is the +ve from your key switch to operate the solenoid when you turn the key. Disconnect this wire and apply +12v from the battery to this terminal via a separate wire.","how doe's this look? +https://www.amazon.com/BRP-Johnson-...89&sr=8-1&keywords=omc+side+mount+control+box" +"I found oil spills inside the transom area after the engine was in the tilt position. Also that same engine burns much more oil than the other identical motor. I found that by looking at the remote oil tank. MAy be there is a leak. +I did see a trace of oil in the water yesterday after a cold start. Any suggestions any one would be appreciated ?",Two things I can think of. One would be a leak and the 2nd would be that it is over-oiling due to the oil pump linkage being out of adjustment. Have you checked that the linkage is still properly connected?,Two things I can think of. One would be a leak and the 2nd would be that it is over-oiling due to the oil pump linkage being out of adjustment. Have you checked that the linkage is still properly connected?,I would run the S/N of the motor and then go to a parts guide and find the part number to find the right carb. Cant go by the numbers on the carb itself. +"I found oil spills inside the transom area after the engine was in the tilt position. Also that same engine burns much more oil than the other identical motor. I found that by looking at the remote oil tank. MAy be there is a leak. +I did see a trace of oil in the water yesterday after a cold start. Any suggestions any one would be appreciated ?",I will look and get back with results. Thanks.,I will look and get back with results. Thanks.,blown inline fuse in a red wire coming off the battery? +"I found oil spills inside the transom area after the engine was in the tilt position. Also that same engine burns much more oil than the other identical motor. I found that by looking at the remote oil tank. MAy be there is a leak. +I did see a trace of oil in the water yesterday after a cold start. Any suggestions any one would be appreciated ?","OK, check the oil pump, no visible leak that I can see. checked linkage and it looked ok. I would like to adjust it linkage and I am not sure how. I know it's running much richer thatn the other (port) engine.","OK, check the oil pump, no visible leak that I can see. checked linkage and it looked ok. I would like to adjust it linkage and I am not sure how. I know it's running much richer thatn the other (port) engine.","First thing would be to post this in the correct forum (Nissan Tohatsu). +There, Paul can probably answer your question...." +"I found oil spills inside the transom area after the engine was in the tilt position. Also that same engine burns much more oil than the other identical motor. I found that by looking at the remote oil tank. MAy be there is a leak. +I did see a trace of oil in the water yesterday after a cold start. Any suggestions any one would be appreciated ?",Email me and I can send u a diagram,Email me and I can send u a diagram,"It sounds as if you have it now well in hand and with Kimcrwbrt and chawk_man with well added comments. I was 30 years in Vancouver working in the marine trades, now inland not far from Lake Ontario. Have a great boating season.." +"i am trying to figure out the year of a yamaha 150 engine. the identification plate is to faded to get all the numbers and letters off it. what other ways are there of finding out the correct year it was built? looks like the plate reads c150tlr. cant make out the next character which is the year. the cowl reads saltwater series 2. it has power trim & tilt with a 20"" shaft.",6g4 is the primary number plug it in at Yamaha outboard parts page,6g4 is the primary number plug it in at Yamaha outboard parts page,"Answered my own question by searching the internet: +Yamaha - 2 plants in Japan, one in France, one in Brazil. +Merc - 40, 50, 60hp in China. +Merc - less than 30hp by Tohatsu in Japan. +Merc - over 75hp in USA." +"I have been having fuel problems for months now. Last year, my auxilary tank had water. Mechanice changed inside engine fuel filters and water separators ran good for the rest of the season last year. This year first time out , one of my engine cut out in the middle of the day and wouldn't start. Limped back to dock with one motor. Mechanic cleaned the screen inside the fuel pump assembly and the very next day it ran great but died after hours of trolling. This time it did started back up on my way home and ran all the way home. I pan on changing the filters again but then they were not visibly dirty or contaminated by water. Before I break my bank for the fuel pump, does any body have any suggestions or have seen this kind of behaviour before ? Thanks.","Try running the engine that keeps dying by itself for a while. If it doesn't quit running by itself, I would say you may be starving it for fuel when they are both running.","Try running the engine that keeps dying by itself for a while. If it doesn't quit running by itself, I would say you may be starving it for fuel when they are both running.","OK thank you. I know there’s a major concern with 225 an exhaust corrosion issues. Not sure if this year motor, a 2006 still suffers from this. Too bad because it’s a solid engine just a $3500 repair when needed." +"I have been having fuel problems for months now. Last year, my auxilary tank had water. Mechanice changed inside engine fuel filters and water separators ran good for the rest of the season last year. This year first time out , one of my engine cut out in the middle of the day and wouldn't start. Limped back to dock with one motor. Mechanic cleaned the screen inside the fuel pump assembly and the very next day it ran great but died after hours of trolling. This time it did started back up on my way home and ran all the way home. I pan on changing the filters again but then they were not visibly dirty or contaminated by water. Before I break my bank for the fuel pump, does any body have any suggestions or have seen this kind of behaviour before ? Thanks.","All fixed, fuel in the AUX tank. Lots of it. Had to drain the tank. + +Next question, I am new with outboard boats. Since there isn't a blower in the bilge area, is it safe to use hair dryer or heat gun there to remove a hose? I am trying to get the hose off the live well pump, and need to warm it up. + +Thanks.","All fixed, fuel in the AUX tank. Lots of it. Had to drain the tank. + +Next question, I am new with outboard boats. Since there isn't a blower in the bilge area, is it safe to use hair dryer or heat gun there to remove a hose? I am trying to get the hose off the live well pump, and need to warm it up. + +Thanks.","The auto paint store can mix an exact match. They will gun your housing and determine the formula. You will need only 1/4 pint to do the entire lower unit. Acceptable primers are available in rattle cans. The base coat needs to be activated with the proper reducer based on temperature. Then activate an epoxy clear. Normally 4 parts clear to 1 part activator. This can be applied after allowing about 15 to 20 minutes set time for base coat. Your finish will be superior to OEM. Don't mix up more than you need...pot life is only about 24 hours in the freezer. When I mix clear coat, I get a couple small items ready to clear with the extra, like a fuel tank, powerhead, or cowling." +"I have been having fuel problems for months now. Last year, my auxilary tank had water. Mechanice changed inside engine fuel filters and water separators ran good for the rest of the season last year. This year first time out , one of my engine cut out in the middle of the day and wouldn't start. Limped back to dock with one motor. Mechanic cleaned the screen inside the fuel pump assembly and the very next day it ran great but died after hours of trolling. This time it did started back up on my way home and ran all the way home. I pan on changing the filters again but then they were not visibly dirty or contaminated by water. Before I break my bank for the fuel pump, does any body have any suggestions or have seen this kind of behaviour before ? Thanks.",Just cut the hose,Just cut the hose,"maybe it will work with this? its a lot of water... so you think the fuel will be okay to use? +https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=949182095098079&set=pcb.949182138431408&type=1&theater" +"Hi all, + +First post here... + +Just curious as to what kind of life guys are getting out of their F115's or what they expect to get out of them? I know it is all dependent on how hard and often it is ran, maint., etc. + +I have one on my 20' Jones Brothers Cape Fisherman 2007 model. Mine was the last one built with a 115. The 150's are standard now. Max rated is 200hp. Boat weighs an average of 3500# during most use. I have the motor professionally serviced at regular intervals, keep it flushed, etc. No issues to date other than replacing a fuel/water float sensor two yrs ago. + +Used for inshore/nearshore, occasional offshore, island hopping, no skiing or towing. + +Motor has 825 hrs. Is it time for a compression check? + +Thanks in advance!","Defintely do a compression check. I have the 2 stroke 115 HP ""C"" model. I have talked to many mechanics and they say my model is good for over 2000 hrs. Mine is 14 years old and still going strong. The VST filter needs to be addressed on a regular basis, on your model.","Defintely do a compression check. I have the 2 stroke 115 HP ""C"" model. I have talked to many mechanics and they say my model is good for over 2000 hrs. Mine is 14 years old and still going strong. The VST filter needs to be addressed on a regular basis, on your model.","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,.... The Sender is adjusted by bendin' it's arm.... + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks bondo, I'll give that a try!" +"Hi all, + +First post here... + +Just curious as to what kind of life guys are getting out of their F115's or what they expect to get out of them? I know it is all dependent on how hard and often it is ran, maint., etc. + +I have one on my 20' Jones Brothers Cape Fisherman 2007 model. Mine was the last one built with a 115. The 150's are standard now. Max rated is 200hp. Boat weighs an average of 3500# during most use. I have the motor professionally serviced at regular intervals, keep it flushed, etc. No issues to date other than replacing a fuel/water float sensor two yrs ago. + +Used for inshore/nearshore, occasional offshore, island hopping, no skiing or towing. + +Motor has 825 hrs. Is it time for a compression check? + +Thanks in advance!","If you take care of it. +No reason you can't get 2000+. +I'm a trained Force/ Chrysler mechanic and I keep my motors(twin 1988/85's) up to snuff. +They have probably over 2000hrs. + +The people who DON'T service their motor and say oh it's not really necessary to change the impeller every couple of years or the cheap oils will work or I don't need a grease gun. +Their the ones on here asking why did my motor go out?? +Like ""soilnsky"" suggested do a filter change on the vapor separator, make sure there is a water sep filter other than the one on the motor. +If you have ANY oil tank or reservoir. It needs to be cleaned out at least 1 time a year. +The oil, like diesel fuel can grow an algae and it can clog the system and in bad cases it can get sucked up and cause piston failure. +One of my customers had twin 225's and both reservoirs had algae, about 1/4 to 1/2 cup.","If you take care of it. +No reason you can't get 2000+. +I'm a trained Force/ Chrysler mechanic and I keep my motors(twin 1988/85's) up to snuff. +They have probably over 2000hrs. + +The people who DON'T service their motor and say oh it's not really necessary to change the impeller every couple of years or the cheap oils will work or I don't need a grease gun. +Their the ones on here asking why did my motor go out?? +Like ""soilnsky"" suggested do a filter change on the vapor separator, make sure there is a water sep filter other than the one on the motor. +If you have ANY oil tank or reservoir. It needs to be cleaned out at least 1 time a year. +The oil, like diesel fuel can grow an algae and it can clog the system and in bad cases it can get sucked up and cause piston failure. +One of my customers had twin 225's and both reservoirs had algae, about 1/4 to 1/2 cup.","I had a 21' Trophy on rollers which was a pain to load. Switched trailers to bunk boards then installed 'poly' type strips on the 2""x4"" boards. Best thing I've ever done. But don't unhook until the stern is in the water otherwise your boat maybe sitting on top of the concrete ramp. Here's a link on how to install: http://www.rockettrailers.com/pdf/bunk-slick-install-quide-57107-57108.pdf" +"Hi all, + +First post here... + +Just curious as to what kind of life guys are getting out of their F115's or what they expect to get out of them? I know it is all dependent on how hard and often it is ran, maint., etc. + +I have one on my 20' Jones Brothers Cape Fisherman 2007 model. Mine was the last one built with a 115. The 150's are standard now. Max rated is 200hp. Boat weighs an average of 3500# during most use. I have the motor professionally serviced at regular intervals, keep it flushed, etc. No issues to date other than replacing a fuel/water float sensor two yrs ago. + +Used for inshore/nearshore, occasional offshore, island hopping, no skiing or towing. + +Motor has 825 hrs. Is it time for a compression check? + +Thanks in advance!",Thanks guys. Have always kept up on the mx every 50-100 hrs with a Yam Tech. I'll raise the issue of vapor separator and oil res cleaning on the next service.,Thanks guys. Have always kept up on the mx every 50-100 hrs with a Yam Tech. I'll raise the issue of vapor separator and oil res cleaning on the next service.,Hey Thanks for that link. I guess I'll get both manuals. +"Hi all, + +First post here... + +Just curious as to what kind of life guys are getting out of their F115's or what they expect to get out of them? I know it is all dependent on how hard and often it is ran, maint., etc. + +I have one on my 20' Jones Brothers Cape Fisherman 2007 model. Mine was the last one built with a 115. The 150's are standard now. Max rated is 200hp. Boat weighs an average of 3500# during most use. I have the motor professionally serviced at regular intervals, keep it flushed, etc. No issues to date other than replacing a fuel/water float sensor two yrs ago. + +Used for inshore/nearshore, occasional offshore, island hopping, no skiing or towing. + +Motor has 825 hrs. Is it time for a compression check? + +Thanks in advance!","Make sure you change the thermostat yearly or u will make oil and foul the plugs + +i seen over 6000 hrs on them","Make sure you change the thermostat yearly or u will make oil and foul the plugs + +i seen over 6000 hrs on them",I pulled plugs and the third cylinder is not burning properly. Thought maybe weak fire. Pulling one wire at a time rpm drops about same no matter which wire I pull. The top cylinder seems to have more fire as I get a “bite” when I pull that wire compared to middle and bottom cylinders. Do could ever just get weak? Simply way to test? +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,"Llrowley1253 said: + + + + I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this? + +Click to expand... + + +Do you hear a click when you push in the key? If not, your automatic choke is not working. Do you still have problems starting if you use the manual choke? If it is hard starting with the manual choke, you might want to check the compression on each cylinder.","Llrowley1253 said: + + + + I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this? + +Click to expand... + + +Do you hear a click when you push in the key? If not, your automatic choke is not working. Do you still have problems starting if you use the manual choke? If it is hard starting with the manual choke, you might want to check the compression on each cylinder.","Quote ["" oil has a reservoir that auto mixes at correct feed rate""] I know I own an E-Tec, this just and extra mixture in the tank to lubricate the fuel pump and injectors because you have run contaminated fuel through it, it could save you some $$$ each injector is over $300 and they don't like water, to me it is not worth it to use that gas in that engine, older engines are a lot more tolerant to that kind of stuff use it in your car." +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,"solinsky said: + + + + Do you hear a click when you push in the key? If not, your automatic choke is not working. Do you still have problems starting if you use the manual choke? If it is hard starting with the manual choke, you might want to check the compression on each cylinder. + +Click to expand... + + + +It has a manual choke.","solinsky said: + + + + Do you hear a click when you push in the key? If not, your automatic choke is not working. Do you still have problems starting if you use the manual choke? If it is hard starting with the manual choke, you might want to check the compression on each cylinder. + +Click to expand... + + + +It has a manual choke.",never ever have your humming bird on while you start the engine. start the engine........then power up the hummingbird. (same advice that is in the owners manual) +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,Covering the lower carb with your hand I think was the clue. By covering the carb you are creating a richer fuel to air mixture. You are running to lean on that carb. Why ?. First I would check the gasket under the carb and all other possible lines & gaskets that could be sucking air. A carburetor has a float system which is basely a bowl with fuel in it that is used for starting. Think of a toilet and how it works. If the float is adjusted wrong ( sticking up ) there could be less fuel in the bowl.Which could cause a lean mixture on starting. Assuming it only starts when you cover one carb as you said I would removed it and have it rebuilt and replace it with a new gasket. You said you checked the butterflies on each carb. Check again and make sure the lower one is as closed as the other. Here again if it's open to much you are sucking to much air and leaning it out. Good Luck,Covering the lower carb with your hand I think was the clue. By covering the carb you are creating a richer fuel to air mixture. You are running to lean on that carb. Why ?. First I would check the gasket under the carb and all other possible lines & gaskets that could be sucking air. A carburetor has a float system which is basely a bowl with fuel in it that is used for starting. Think of a toilet and how it works. If the float is adjusted wrong ( sticking up ) there could be less fuel in the bowl.Which could cause a lean mixture on starting. Assuming it only starts when you cover one carb as you said I would removed it and have it rebuilt and replace it with a new gasket. You said you checked the butterflies on each carb. Check again and make sure the lower one is as closed as the other. Here again if it's open to much you are sucking to much air and leaning it out. Good Luck,"Pull plug wires one at a time while she is running to see if she's firing on all 4,use plastic pliers" +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,"There is a cold start technique that works for every carb'd Yamaha 2 stroke that I have tried. You need to check that your choke butterflies are properly connected to the manual choke and operating when you pull the choke out. If that is all good, try the following - +1) Pump the primer bulb hard +2) Pull out the choke +3) Put the fast idle lever up to around 1/3rd throttle (if you have the controls with a separate fast idle lever this is about 1"" past the point where it gets hard to move - the initial easy movement doesn't do anything) +4) Wind the engine over to start +5) If it doesn't start after 2 or 3 seconds of winding, try pumping the fuel bulb again and then wind over again","There is a cold start technique that works for every carb'd Yamaha 2 stroke that I have tried. You need to check that your choke butterflies are properly connected to the manual choke and operating when you pull the choke out. If that is all good, try the following - +1) Pump the primer bulb hard +2) Pull out the choke +3) Put the fast idle lever up to around 1/3rd throttle (if you have the controls with a separate fast idle lever this is about 1"" past the point where it gets hard to move - the initial easy movement doesn't do anything) +4) Wind the engine over to start +5) If it doesn't start after 2 or 3 seconds of winding, try pumping the fuel bulb again and then wind over again",Baton Rouge +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,"A 2004 115TXRC/TLRC has both a manual choke and an electric choke. Actually, the mechanical choke is driven by an electromechanical device when the key is pushed in. + +Pull the manual lever and see if the choke plates close on both carburetors. Then, push the key switch in with the key in the on position and see if the choke plates close. They should in both cases. Putting your hand over the carburetor inlets is doing the same thing that the choke plates should be doing. Yours might need to be adjusted. + +I disagree with opening the throttle somewhat during a cold start event. When a motor is cold there is not enough fuel for the amount of air that is flowing through the carburetor. The choke plate closing causes additional fuel to be provided. Opening the throttle during cold start is allowing more air in at the very same time that there is already too much air.","A 2004 115TXRC/TLRC has both a manual choke and an electric choke. Actually, the mechanical choke is driven by an electromechanical device when the key is pushed in. + +Pull the manual lever and see if the choke plates close on both carburetors. Then, push the key switch in with the key in the on position and see if the choke plates close. They should in both cases. Putting your hand over the carburetor inlets is doing the same thing that the choke plates should be doing. Yours might need to be adjusted. + +I disagree with opening the throttle somewhat during a cold start event. When a motor is cold there is not enough fuel for the amount of air that is flowing through the carburetor. The choke plate closing causes additional fuel to be provided. Opening the throttle during cold start is allowing more air in at the very same time that there is already too much air.","Thanks Bob + +Over the last week or so since I checked the new boat and found this moisture I've done a lot of reading about this stuff and seen a lot of praise for CPES when used for certain tasks. I assumed previously that it was the same as Git-rot but the latter does not seem as well liked from balance of reading a lot of comments in relation to both products. + +Never tried either. + +Good news is I just got an email back from Steve Smith giving me a link for a european supplier of CPES. +www.lignu.nu + +It works out very expensive though unfortunately at 132 EUR for 1.9 litres delivered (£110/$175!!!) +Not sure what volume I'd need to treat mine, but I though it was expensive paying about the same for a whole gallon of West Epoxy, never mind this price! Still, if it needs it and will help prevent problems further on it's money well spent I guess. + +When you mentioned brittleness of dried wood, can you elaborate on what context you mean by it being brittle? Do you mean just as it is when fresh? Or something else?Cheers +Jim" +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,"We will have to agree to disagree on the open throttle Boscoe. I run a charter fleet that has had many of these engines and whilst I understand what you are saying, it isn't true in practice. Don't forget that opening the throttle with the choke closed will change the airflows (and hence fuel delivery) over both the main and idle jets. It is not just a case of 'extra air'.","We will have to agree to disagree on the open throttle Boscoe. I run a charter fleet that has had many of these engines and whilst I understand what you are saying, it isn't true in practice. Don't forget that opening the throttle with the choke closed will change the airflows (and hence fuel delivery) over both the main and idle jets. It is not just a case of 'extra air'.","result. +dropped the leg and selected reverse before putting it back together. +when linning up the gear selector rod nuts noticed whoever put it back together the last time must of tried to put it together in neutral and the long brass nut wasnt lining up. +well its all together now and no more jumping in and out of gear, +thanks for any help and that site for manuals it really handy, +cheers" +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,"If a motor with a choke plate has to have the throttle advanced to facilitate a cold start then something is not correct with the motor. + +Yes, in your case advancing the throttle apparently works. I can't disagree with what you say works for you. + +I am saying that advancing the throttle is trying to compensate for something else that is amiss. + +Just like if a hot motor is flooded then opening the throttle will allow more air to flow through which will facilitate clearing out the extra fuel. When the air/fuel mix gets right then the motor will start. The throttle is being opened to compensate for a problem within the motor.","If a motor with a choke plate has to have the throttle advanced to facilitate a cold start then something is not correct with the motor. + +Yes, in your case advancing the throttle apparently works. I can't disagree with what you say works for you. + +I am saying that advancing the throttle is trying to compensate for something else that is amiss. + +Just like if a hot motor is flooded then opening the throttle will allow more air to flow through which will facilitate clearing out the extra fuel. When the air/fuel mix gets right then the motor will start. The throttle is being opened to compensate for a problem within the motor.","Richwon4 said: + + + + So what is the big advantage of four blade vs. three blade? Does it manifest itself in significant MPH? + +Click to expand... + +Typically a 4-blade gives better acceleration out of the hole than a 3-blade but the 3-blade gives a little better top end." +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,"All I can say is that 12 years of running over a dozen of these engines, plus helping dozens of others, this is what works very time. I know the theory, I've rebuilt carbs, rebuilt engines, checked chokes, cleaned jets, comes back to the same procedure each time for the fastest cold start. I had a classic case recently where a guy beside me at the ramp had virtually flattened his battery trying to cold start his SWS2 150. He was packing it up and getting ready to drive home in disgust. I went over, asked if I could show him something, went through the procedure described, and the engine fired up on the 2nd or 3rd wind on an almost flat battery. The guy was dumbfounded and said that his engine never started that easily even with a fully charged battery. If you own one of these engines, try it yourself next time it is hard to start when cold.","All I can say is that 12 years of running over a dozen of these engines, plus helping dozens of others, this is what works very time. I know the theory, I've rebuilt carbs, rebuilt engines, checked chokes, cleaned jets, comes back to the same procedure each time for the fastest cold start. I had a classic case recently where a guy beside me at the ramp had virtually flattened his battery trying to cold start his SWS2 150. He was packing it up and getting ready to drive home in disgust. I went over, asked if I could show him something, went through the procedure described, and the engine fired up on the 2nd or 3rd wind on an almost flat battery. The guy was dumbfounded and said that his engine never started that easily even with a fully charged battery. If you own one of these engines, try it yourself next time it is hard to start when cold.",do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?if so then set the meter on rx1 and zero it...disconnect the positive lead at the battery...take a reading from the disconnected lead to motor ground....write the reading down...then turn the key to on....take a reading and write it down...now turn the key to start...take a reading and get back to us with the 3 readings please.. +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,"As I said, I agree with you that a motor with a problem can be finessed to make it work. But, the core problem is not being fixed. A temporary solution is being used each time to get the motor started. + +A fellow with a crappy leaking carburetor or a leaking fuel injectors might have a flooding issue each time the motor is turned off. It can be very hard to start again when hot. There is a way to start a flooded engine. One can use that procedure each time or one can fix the problem that is causing the override procedure to be needed in the first place. + +A guy will ****ty brakes might have to pump them before each stop to get them to work properly. Or, he can repair his brakes and not have to do anything with each stop. + +Maybe the OP will want to use your procedure. Maybe the OP will want to fix the motor so that your procedure is not needed. His call.","As I said, I agree with you that a motor with a problem can be finessed to make it work. But, the core problem is not being fixed. A temporary solution is being used each time to get the motor started. + +A fellow with a crappy leaking carburetor or a leaking fuel injectors might have a flooding issue each time the motor is turned off. It can be very hard to start again when hot. There is a way to start a flooded engine. One can use that procedure each time or one can fix the problem that is causing the override procedure to be needed in the first place. + +A guy will ****ty brakes might have to pump them before each stop to get them to work properly. Or, he can repair his brakes and not have to do anything with each stop. + +Maybe the OP will want to use your procedure. Maybe the OP will want to fix the motor so that your procedure is not needed. His call.",check with West Marine... +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,"Here is what I am talking about. Using a half assed solution to override a problem and not actually fix a problem. + +A guy has a problem with a 27 year old Yamaha because the spark plug caps come loose from the spark plugs. Instead of fixing the problem (replacing the caps) he solved it by using a band aid approach. + +Hey, it works. Can't argue with success I suppose. He could have used glue and it would have also worked.","Here is what I am talking about. Using a half assed solution to override a problem and not actually fix a problem. + +A guy has a problem with a 27 year old Yamaha because the spark plug caps come loose from the spark plugs. Instead of fixing the problem (replacing the caps) he solved it by using a band aid approach. + +Hey, it works. Can't argue with success I suppose. He could have used glue and it would have also worked.","Thanks Boscoe that seems clear but what is the red wire for from the control box. I am appalled that the main dealer did not know this. I am in the UK, I think the USA equivalent model is the T25. The FT 25 is heavier built than the standard 25hp and is 60lbs heavier and a carb rather than FI, not sure if that is good or bad!" +I have a 2004 115 h.p. Yamaha 2 stroke w/manual choke. It has been nearly impossible to get it started when cold i.e. first start up in the morning. After it finally gets started it will start right up after that all day. It was always a little hard to start but now it takes about 15 min. of playing around with it to finally get it to start. I took the cover off the carbs and the butterflies seem to be working as they should. When I put my hand over the bottom carb and completely cover the carb it fires right up. I'm at a loss as to what could be causing it to act this way. I don't use Ethanol and last year I had a new fuel pump installed and the jets adjusted. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? A local Yamaha expert said there was a few years where Yamaha had bad chokes. Anyone know about this?,"I must admit that I have never understood why, in a motor with 4 carbueretors ( 2 of 2 each), would at least 1 or 2 be working enough to start the motor if there was a problem with the others. Must we assume that a problem be experienced by all at the same time? In this post, Llrowley choked the bottom 2 carbs and the motor started.","I must admit that I have never understood why, in a motor with 4 carbueretors ( 2 of 2 each), would at least 1 or 2 be working enough to start the motor if there was a problem with the others. Must we assume that a problem be experienced by all at the same time? In this post, Llrowley choked the bottom 2 carbs and the motor started.",trial run it in the water. take it to a shop and have it [boat motor &trailer]checked out. +"I have a 1992 Yamaha 85hp TLRQ outboard. I have water in the middle and bottom cylinders. More in the bottom than the middle. Top cylinder looks good and appears to be clean, seems to be firing ok. I replaced the head gasket and head cover gasket and did find water in those 2 areas. Replaced per mfg specs via service manual. Original head gasket looked good to me, no blow by. Started it up, same problem. It idles fine before and after gasket replacement. Under load it bogs when you try and throttle up. But idles like a champ. Water in the bottom plug has a milk shake look to it. I'm good with motors but outboards are fairly new for me. Can you help me out, where is that water coming from????",Update: I replaced the exhaust gaskets and put on a new inner exhaust cover. The gasket looked bad when I took off the inner cover. There was a tear near the bottom of the gasket and a water line where it looked like it was getting in. After I replaced all that it appears to have fixed it. Had to run it at idle for a while to clear out any moisture but it looks good now. Hope this helps someone else out. Many thanks to jeoreeves for helping me out.,Update: I replaced the exhaust gaskets and put on a new inner exhaust cover. The gasket looked bad when I took off the inner cover. There was a tear near the bottom of the gasket and a water line where it looked like it was getting in. After I replaced all that it appears to have fixed it. Had to run it at idle for a while to clear out any moisture but it looks good now. Hope this helps someone else out. Many thanks to jeoreeves for helping me out.,"Thank you for responding but unfortunately, I'm not looking for a remote for it. I am just looking for aftermarket parts for the throttle control. I have looked it seems in every place that I could look that discussed after market parts. So I was just looking for suggestions on the best place to look for after market parts instead of getting the same results for OEM parts." +"Yamaha 225/97 exhaust + I asked this before. + I understand there was a problem with the exhaust in the mid section. + Not sure what years were affected???? + Thinking of getting a 97/225 and need ANY input.Good or BAD!!! + + Thanks,J",It is the F225's that had the exhaust corrosion issue if that is what you are referring to.,It is the F225's that had the exhaust corrosion issue if that is what you are referring to.,Are you looking for the hose fitting that mates with the engine side fitting? +"What is the purpose of the yellow wire that is connected to ground and the 8 pin (middle) connector on the TCI/CDI ??? I'm curious since it's the only ground wire that's connected through a bullet connector and could be disconnected by itself. + +It's also my understanding that this motor uses a TCI instead of a CDI to control the ignition timing, and the tach signal is generated by the TCI. + +From searching the internet, it appears the pulser coils provide the crankshaft position and RPM which are used by the trigger circuits for the ignition coils. + +Does anyone know if the tach signal is derived specifically from Pulser Coil #1 or Pulser Coil #2, or if the TCI actually samples the input form both coils to generate the tach signal?","In most Yams the tachometer signal originates with the lighting coil. In your model it is fed to the CDI and then on to the tachometer in the green ten pin wire. + +The F90TLRB uses a CDI. + +After all else fails, read the owner's manual.","In most Yams the tachometer signal originates with the lighting coil. In your model it is fed to the CDI and then on to the tachometer in the green ten pin wire. + +The F90TLRB uses a CDI. + +After all else fails, read the owner's manual.","And unless the boat stays under cover when not in use, make sure what ever you select is rated high on UV tolerance..." +"What is the purpose of the yellow wire that is connected to ground and the 8 pin (middle) connector on the TCI/CDI ??? I'm curious since it's the only ground wire that's connected through a bullet connector and could be disconnected by itself. + +It's also my understanding that this motor uses a TCI instead of a CDI to control the ignition timing, and the tach signal is generated by the TCI. + +From searching the internet, it appears the pulser coils provide the crankshaft position and RPM which are used by the trigger circuits for the ignition coils. + +Does anyone know if the tach signal is derived specifically from Pulser Coil #1 or Pulser Coil #2, or if the TCI actually samples the input form both coils to generate the tach signal?","Thank you boscoe. + +I thought this motor would have a CDI but someone else told me it had a TCI and an inductive ignition so I relied on their experience, but they achieve spark by different means. It's still a black box though, so all you can really do is check the ins and outs. + +So the tach signal comes from the lighting coils, thru the regulator, to the CDI, and gets modified or passed on by the CDI to the tachometer.I've traced every wire in the motor, so it has to come out of the CDI on a Pink wire in the 8-pin connector on my CDI. It's also a pink wire to the tach on my boat for some reason. + +My yamaha tach needle will swing full scale and return to the running rpm intermittently. I've already checked all the wires and connections from the motor to the gauge, so will have to scope the lighting coils, regulator output to the CDI, the CDI output, and the signal at the tach.","Thank you boscoe. + +I thought this motor would have a CDI but someone else told me it had a TCI and an inductive ignition so I relied on their experience, but they achieve spark by different means. It's still a black box though, so all you can really do is check the ins and outs. + +So the tach signal comes from the lighting coils, thru the regulator, to the CDI, and gets modified or passed on by the CDI to the tachometer.I've traced every wire in the motor, so it has to come out of the CDI on a Pink wire in the 8-pin connector on my CDI. It's also a pink wire to the tach on my boat for some reason. + +My yamaha tach needle will swing full scale and return to the running rpm intermittently. I've already checked all the wires and connections from the motor to the gauge, so will have to scope the lighting coils, regulator output to the CDI, the CDI output, and the signal at the tach.","Good morning and Thanks for the help. Is that a matter of just unplugging the wires on the switch and swapping sides? Also there is a longer single red wire that i assumed was power for some add on if needed that has a orange wire with a white stripe made into a plastic plug. the orange and wite wire has a plastic plug that could plug into the one it is made into? Would just be a loop, not sure what to do with tis one." +"What is the purpose of the yellow wire that is connected to ground and the 8 pin (middle) connector on the TCI/CDI ??? I'm curious since it's the only ground wire that's connected through a bullet connector and could be disconnected by itself. + +It's also my understanding that this motor uses a TCI instead of a CDI to control the ignition timing, and the tach signal is generated by the TCI. + +From searching the internet, it appears the pulser coils provide the crankshaft position and RPM which are used by the trigger circuits for the ignition coils. + +Does anyone know if the tach signal is derived specifically from Pulser Coil #1 or Pulser Coil #2, or if the TCI actually samples the input form both coils to generate the tach signal?","newboater67 said: + + + + Thank you boscoe. + +I thought this motor would have a CDI but someone else told me it had a TCI and an inductive ignition so I relied on their experience, but they achieve spark by different means. It's still a black box though, so all you can really do is check the ins and outs. + +So the tach signal comes from the lighting coils, thru the regulator, to the CDI, and gets modified or passed on by the CDI to the tachometer.I've traced every wire in the motor, so it has to come out of the CDI on a Pink wire in the 8-pin connector on my CDI. It's also a pink wire to the tach on my boat for some reason. + +My yamaha tach needle will swing full scale and return to the running rpm intermittently. I've already checked all the wires and connections from the motor to the gauge, so will have to scope the lighting coils, regulator output to the CDI, the CDI output, and the signal at the tach. + +Click to expand... + + +Yamaha terminology is confusing. The computer on the motor is referred to as a CDI. However, it appears to have a transistorized ignition system and not a capacitive discharge ignition system. I say this because there is no charge coil in the stator assembly. Only a lighting coil and pulser coils. + +It appears that the tachometer signal wire comes from the CDI via a blue wire that is in a four pin connector. The blue wire changes to a green wire that connects to the ten pin connector and then runs up to the helm for a connection to the tachometer. This is what the wiring diagram in the service manual shows anyway. + +A pink wire to a Yamaha multifunction tachometer is normally used for the trim sender signal. + +Yamaha does some crazy wiring stuff.","newboater67 said: + + + + Thank you boscoe. + +I thought this motor would have a CDI but someone else told me it had a TCI and an inductive ignition so I relied on their experience, but they achieve spark by different means. It's still a black box though, so all you can really do is check the ins and outs. + +So the tach signal comes from the lighting coils, thru the regulator, to the CDI, and gets modified or passed on by the CDI to the tachometer.I've traced every wire in the motor, so it has to come out of the CDI on a Pink wire in the 8-pin connector on my CDI. It's also a pink wire to the tach on my boat for some reason. + +My yamaha tach needle will swing full scale and return to the running rpm intermittently. I've already checked all the wires and connections from the motor to the gauge, so will have to scope the lighting coils, regulator output to the CDI, the CDI output, and the signal at the tach. + +Click to expand... + + +Yamaha terminology is confusing. The computer on the motor is referred to as a CDI. However, it appears to have a transistorized ignition system and not a capacitive discharge ignition system. I say this because there is no charge coil in the stator assembly. Only a lighting coil and pulser coils. + +It appears that the tachometer signal wire comes from the CDI via a blue wire that is in a four pin connector. The blue wire changes to a green wire that connects to the ten pin connector and then runs up to the helm for a connection to the tachometer. This is what the wiring diagram in the service manual shows anyway. + +A pink wire to a Yamaha multifunction tachometer is normally used for the trim sender signal. + +Yamaha does some crazy wiring stuff.","If so, what type of cloth to use? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,.... Seein's yer lookin' for waterproofing, 'n not strength, mat will work with poly resin,.... + +If yer usin' epoxy, I'd use something light, like say 6oz cloth,....." +hi all im new to this site and hopeing somone can help me rite here goes I have a 40 hp yam 1989 itsits loosing power I e not reving out I noticed the bottom plug was black and wet so I done a compresion test all cylinders are 135 psi its sperking very well so I thought petrol I cleaned carbs then noticed the top and middle cylinder it kills the engjne wen you turn the mix screw in but the bottom one dont make no differece at all turn it fully jn and nothjng happens at all plz help me,"Reed valves ok on the bottom cylinder.---------"" sparking very well "" means nothing here.-----------Answer this , will spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or more.","Reed valves ok on the bottom cylinder.---------"" sparking very well "" means nothing here.-----------Answer this , will spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or more.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Yes, with a new engine. These engines just rot away over time. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks. Do you think its repairable or not?" +hi all im new to this site and hopeing somone can help me rite here goes I have a 40 hp yam 1989 itsits loosing power I e not reving out I noticed the bottom plug was black and wet so I done a compresion test all cylinders are 135 psi its sperking very well so I thought petrol I cleaned carbs then noticed the top and middle cylinder it kills the engjne wen you turn the mix screw in but the bottom one dont make no differece at all turn it fully jn and nothjng happens at all plz help me,"3 + +I would of thought so the spark is very good well thats wot my mate has said","3 + +I would of thought so the spark is very good well thats wot my mate has said","aliboy said: + + + + Could be (amongst a lot of other things) a bad gudgeon pin/bearing. There is a simple test. Take out the spark plugs and put a long piece of dowel or similar down one of the plug holes. Rotate the engine by hand until the dowel shows that that cylinder is a TDC (top of the stroke). Rotate the flywheel another 3 or 4 degress past TDC then stop. Next push firmly on the dowel to see if the piston can be moved by the dowel. Do this for each cylinder by rotating each one just past TDC. On a good engine the piston will not move. On an older engine you might just detect a very tiny movement. ON a bad engine you will feel a definite movement and usually hear a 'click/clunk' type noise. This test gives a rough check of both the gudgeon and big end bearings. It isn't perfect, but is a quick way to check for what is a reasonably common problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you guys for the quick response!! I do have the lower unit removed and found that I had a broken control bracket. I ordered a new one $44... That may have been some of the noise I had thought was the lower crank vibrating around in there. But after letting it run for 10-15 seconds the flywheel does have a rough motion to it I wondered if one of my magnets came off the inside of the flywheel or maybe I'm just over thinking this whole thing and it's just simply a new control arm that I needed. I took off the pull start cover and tried to get down into the flywheel to check it out but I do not have a fly wheel puller so I was a stand still. Motor runs great with lower unit not on, but still some off noise coming from the flywheel. I'm going to get a puller this week and try to get in there just for peace of mind I know everything is good to go for this motor. Is it possible I'm missing a couple magnets and my timing / spark is being thrown off? + +I did not try the wood dowel trick yet, but I really do appreciate the input. As for now waiting on a couple parts for the motor and we'll see what happens!" +hi all im new to this site and hopeing somone can help me rite here goes I have a 40 hp yam 1989 itsits loosing power I e not reving out I noticed the bottom plug was black and wet so I done a compresion test all cylinders are 135 psi its sperking very well so I thought petrol I cleaned carbs then noticed the top and middle cylinder it kills the engjne wen you turn the mix screw in but the bottom one dont make no differece at all turn it fully jn and nothjng happens at all plz help me,???-----Will spark jump a gap of 1 cm yes or no ?,???-----Will spark jump a gap of 1 cm yes or no ?,I have that switch also. Now I know what it does. +hi all im new to this site and hopeing somone can help me rite here goes I have a 40 hp yam 1989 itsits loosing power I e not reving out I noticed the bottom plug was black and wet so I done a compresion test all cylinders are 135 psi its sperking very well so I thought petrol I cleaned carbs then noticed the top and middle cylinder it kills the engjne wen you turn the mix screw in but the bottom one dont make no differece at all turn it fully jn and nothjng happens at all plz help me,"racerone said: + + + + ???-----Will spark jump a gap of 1 cm yes or no ? + +Click to expand... + + +so my mate said its deffinatly jumping that far m8","racerone said: + + + + ???-----Will spark jump a gap of 1 cm yes or no ? + +Click to expand... + + +so my mate said its deffinatly jumping that far m8",I would suspect a fault in the circuitry that provides key on battery power to the ECU. The yellow wire from the key switch to the motor. +hi all im new to this site and hopeing somone can help me rite here goes I have a 40 hp yam 1989 itsits loosing power I e not reving out I noticed the bottom plug was black and wet so I done a compresion test all cylinders are 135 psi its sperking very well so I thought petrol I cleaned carbs then noticed the top and middle cylinder it kills the engjne wen you turn the mix screw in but the bottom one dont make no differece at all turn it fully jn and nothjng happens at all plz help me,update ive cheked reed valves they look fine the spark definatly jumps 1cm m8,update ive cheked reed valves they look fine the spark definatly jumps 1cm m8,"I would certainly go with an EasyOut (screw extractor) I would definitely take the head off to clean out any bits that may be inside there. It isn't such a bad job. Here are some videos I did doing that on a smaller Yamaha. https://youtu.be/rEMFx0Dm3LQ https://youtu.be/1tkuBGBRbrQ + +Best of luck, +Stuart" +hi all im new to this site and hopeing somone can help me rite here goes I have a 40 hp yam 1989 itsits loosing power I e not reving out I noticed the bottom plug was black and wet so I done a compresion test all cylinders are 135 psi its sperking very well so I thought petrol I cleaned carbs then noticed the top and middle cylinder it kills the engjne wen you turn the mix screw in but the bottom one dont make no differece at all turn it fully jn and nothjng happens at all plz help me,"You need 4 things for that motor to run.--------------You have strong spark.----------You have compression.------You say carburetors are clean,-----Next is crankcase compression.----- and you say reeds are good so that leaves the lower crankshaft seal as suspect.","You need 4 things for that motor to run.--------------You have strong spark.----------You have compression.------You say carburetors are clean,-----Next is crankcase compression.----- and you say reeds are good so that leaves the lower crankshaft seal as suspect.",I couldnt find a stamp and the sticker is faded not legible. It is on the title tho on mine the sticker is on the drivers side tube where the two meet at the center tube. +hi all im new to this site and hopeing somone can help me rite here goes I have a 40 hp yam 1989 itsits loosing power I e not reving out I noticed the bottom plug was black and wet so I done a compresion test all cylinders are 135 psi its sperking very well so I thought petrol I cleaned carbs then noticed the top and middle cylinder it kills the engjne wen you turn the mix screw in but the bottom one dont make no differece at all turn it fully jn and nothjng happens at all plz help me,funny you shoul say that because the power heads off im gona put a new one in it I just hope ifs that,funny you shoul say that because the power heads off im gona put a new one in it I just hope ifs that,"First of all, all those underlined words you typed? That means they are misspelled and if you right click on them it will correct the spelling for you. It just makes it easier for us to understand your question better. + +Generally speaking, no, you should not use a single ram to operate a twin installation. If you convert to unassisted hydraulic, it will simplify the engine compartment because you can delete the power steering pump, cooler, hoses, and actuator. You will need dual rams and a single (2.4) helm." +"My motor has not be started in + +My motor has not be started in 9 months. It started just fine but I am noticing fuel leaking from top of lower carb. Is there some kind of overflow? What is the fix for the problem. Mike C.","carbs float is sticking + +carbs float is sticking","carbs float is sticking + +carbs float is sticking","Re: paulyoung194135 + +what type of ign system, points?? Bad tach , shift interupter switch." +"My motor has not be started in + +My motor has not be started in 9 months. It started just fine but I am noticing fuel leaking from top of lower carb. Is there some kind of overflow? What is the fix for the problem. Mike C.","that was it... took carb off a + +that was it... took carb off and cleaned float needle and works just fine...thanks","that was it... took carb off a + +that was it... took carb off and cleaned float needle and works just fine...thanks","Ayuh,.... What does the paperwork call it,..?? + +Without proper paperwork, you'll never get it registered,.... + +That number appears to be pre-'73, so the date ain't in it,...." +"My motor has not be started in + +My motor has not be started in 9 months. It started just fine but I am noticing fuel leaking from top of lower carb. Is there some kind of overflow? What is the fix for the problem. Mike C.","cool man + +cool man","cool man + +cool man",Pull the head and inspect as pistons can be scuffed and still have decent compression.... +"My motor has not be started in + +My motor has not be started in 9 months. It started just fine but I am noticing fuel leaking from top of lower carb. Is there some kind of overflow? What is the fix for the problem. Mike C.","I had the same problem with my Yamaha 90 (1981 model) been standing 18 months all on its lonesome, lower carb spilling fuel out of the vent. Removed the bowl drain screw, pumped fuel through it then used a plastic cable tie to gently clear the scum out of it, then tapped (or Klapped as we say in South Africa) gently with a piece of wood and rubber mallet and then for good measure used a piece of heavy duty solder wire to push up onto the float through the drain screw and presto back in business. Thanks guys great advice!","I had the same problem with my Yamaha 90 (1981 model) been standing 18 months all on its lonesome, lower carb spilling fuel out of the vent. Removed the bowl drain screw, pumped fuel through it then used a plastic cable tie to gently clear the scum out of it, then tapped (or Klapped as we say in South Africa) gently with a piece of wood and rubber mallet and then for good measure used a piece of heavy duty solder wire to push up onto the float through the drain screw and presto back in business. Thanks guys great advice!","The wiring diagram is in the back of your Yamaha service manual. + +When you use the term ""venting solenoid"" are you talking about the VST vapor shut off valve?" +"I have a 17 ft aqua sport. I believe the actual model is an osprey. Original dry weight is around 1850 lbs. I'm not the original owner and it's had improvements/modifications done and refurbished before I bought it. It came with a 100 hp mariner, 1988 on it. I know... It actually ran great until just a few months ago. Blew the lower unit and ended up scrapping it. I have never been able to find the specs for the mariner so I'm not sure exactly what it weighed. But it was heavy, just not sure how heavy. I grew up with yamahas, so I decided to switch my controls and harness. That's all done. If I had it my way I would put a 90 2- stroke on it, but as I'm sure you know they are not easy to come by. So I'm set on a 4 stroke. 4 strokes I have found to be a lil tricky. The specs on a 90 are almost identical to a 115, weight wise. I'm guessing that's why I can find used 115s but no 90s? I live in the Virgin Islands, so that also makes it tricky. I've tried the Florida thing before, don't want to do that again. I have found a used 115 here for a decent price. Only question is, will it be too heavy? Of course the guy wanting to sell it to me thinks It'll be just fine, but I'm not so sure. Does anybody out the have any advice or tips? Thanks in advance",a four stroke is going to be heavier....for example a 4 stroke 60 hp mercury weighs approx the same as the 90 evinrude 2 stroke that i replaced...as far as hp is concerned you do not want to exceed the specs on the boat tag for both legal and safety reasons...,a four stroke is going to be heavier....for example a 4 stroke 60 hp mercury weighs approx the same as the 90 evinrude 2 stroke that i replaced...as far as hp is concerned you do not want to exceed the specs on the boat tag for both legal and safety reasons...,"Ed ke6bnl said: + + + + I am new to this but that sure sounds like it is running out of fuel, fuel filter or sucking air in the fuel pick up line. + +Click to expand... + + +Fuel filter is quite new, so I it shouldn't be that. +It feels like the problem occurs att the same rpm all the time. Do you think it is a possible air leak anyway? Shouldn't the problem occur more intermittent with an air leak?" +"I have a 17 ft aqua sport. I believe the actual model is an osprey. Original dry weight is around 1850 lbs. I'm not the original owner and it's had improvements/modifications done and refurbished before I bought it. It came with a 100 hp mariner, 1988 on it. I know... It actually ran great until just a few months ago. Blew the lower unit and ended up scrapping it. I have never been able to find the specs for the mariner so I'm not sure exactly what it weighed. But it was heavy, just not sure how heavy. I grew up with yamahas, so I decided to switch my controls and harness. That's all done. If I had it my way I would put a 90 2- stroke on it, but as I'm sure you know they are not easy to come by. So I'm set on a 4 stroke. 4 strokes I have found to be a lil tricky. The specs on a 90 are almost identical to a 115, weight wise. I'm guessing that's why I can find used 115s but no 90s? I live in the Virgin Islands, so that also makes it tricky. I've tried the Florida thing before, don't want to do that again. I have found a used 115 here for a decent price. Only question is, will it be too heavy? Of course the guy wanting to sell it to me thinks It'll be just fine, but I'm not so sure. Does anybody out the have any advice or tips? Thanks in advance","boats built prior to 2002 were rated for 2 strokes and the additional weight of a 4 stroke were not considered.. +http://www.searay.com/page.aspx/pageid/162277/Contact-Support.aspx","boats built prior to 2002 were rated for 2 strokes and the additional weight of a 4 stroke were not considered.. +http://www.searay.com/page.aspx/pageid/162277/Contact-Support.aspx",as to the question on type of hose...use any good hose but not back rubber.... +"hello everyone im new to the site,i need help im having a problem with my engine its a 2006/f250 4 stroke yam.it was running fine i started it one day and the ignition key got stuck and burnt the starter/when i removed the couling i had smoke, long story short i put a new starter in ,engine starts fine i changed oil and plugs,runs great but it wont go past 2600 rpms what did i do wrong or is there a fuse blown ?","It could be a many reasons to not getting RPM but i dnt think so it is anything related to starter motor, it can be some fuel issue, is their any warning alarm?","It could be a many reasons to not getting RPM but i dnt think so it is anything related to starter motor, it can be some fuel issue, is their any warning alarm?",Thanks for reply. Yes i checkd for big spark. I think we hav figured it out. The plastic pick up tube in tank had a crack in it up near the top. Its running a whole lot better but it still not exactly right. It wants to bog a couple times when giving WOT. It will finally take off after few times of working lever back an forth. When loading on trlr i could not get it to open up enough to load it. So we took it home and my buddy went thru all carbs an said they lookd like they were new. We checkd timing idling on muffs and WOT out on lake and timing is good. He did find it has bad rectifier. Could this make motor run bad? Thanks again +Does this Yamaha 40hp fourstroke 2003 support NMEA2000?,Why this question ??????,Why this question ??????,You measure engine performance in GPH (gallons per hour) for boat engines. You get the best economy by running it at max spark advance usually around 3/4 throttle. +Does this Yamaha 40hp fourstroke 2003 support NMEA2000?,"I`m looking for a Simrad NSS7 and the SIMRAD devices support NMEA-2000 networking, so they can read data from an engine that supports NMEA-2000...","I`m looking for a Simrad NSS7 and the SIMRAD devices support NMEA-2000 networking, so they can read data from an engine that supports NMEA-2000...","slickmick9514 said: + + + + Thought I saw a diagram on this forum on how to plumb a header tank to an engine. I have a water heater that is located above the engine and need to plumb a header tank. Where do I tap into the engine for the supply and return to the header tank? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,... What motor,..?? + +'n What's a header tank,..?? + +It's the water heater's, heat loop that's plumbed into the motor..." +Does this Yamaha 40hp fourstroke 2003 support NMEA2000?,"this is carburater type engine,I seen only EFI engines with NMEA 2000 connector.","this is carburater type engine,I seen only EFI engines with NMEA 2000 connector.",I overhauled my bunk board last year and attached Poly bought at TAP's Plastic. CAUTION: Do not remove your bow hook until you're at the bottom of the ramp...these strips are slick +"Hi, + +So I decided to try and start my Yamaha 2HP again after leaving it for the winter and it would not start it used to run fine the last time I had it going any way here's where I have got, + +So I started of with the basics like cleaning spark plug, Checking for spark etc etc. So it sparked every now and then while trying to start it so I took of the fly wheel cover and thought it may need a new condenser so I purchased a new one and checked the spark using a rattle gun to turn the flywheel the new condenser did not seem to make a difference they both sparked the same + Fuel was getting to the spark plug because it was wet. + +So where to now ? + +Thanks.",Don't worry I have fixed it!,Don't worry I have fixed it!,"I totally agree ! + +My Primary Pump was hooked up this way with an Auto/Manual switch w/Indicator (at least it has no OFF) at the helm. +But when the Perko Battery switch was set to OFF......All Bildge Pump operation where suspended. + +Instead of rewiring it ! + +I added a slightly smaller (more Energy efficient) Bildge Pump & Float Lower in the bildge. +It's always connected directly to one of the batteries in Dual Battery set-up. +If it was a heavy rain period (Lots of Battery drain), I could use the other battery for starting. + +FYI: I was resistant to Not putting a fuse (others recomended) on this New primary pump line (I finally went with a fuse that 2.5X it's pump recommended fuse rating). + +Hence, the old Primary pump is now my Secondary pump ! + + + + + + + +RicardoMarine said: + + + + The draining of a battery is not the problem. If a bilge pump needs to remove water in our absence, let's give it all the battery power we can. +The issue is where the Auto/OFF/Manual helm switch receives it's power. +These typically receive power at the helm, which is dependant on the hull harness, which is dependant on the MBSS making a battery bank selection. When we leave our boats unattended, we usually turn the MBSS off. Now the helm power is also off, so how is the ""Auto"" mode able to power a float switch? +Answer: It cannot! + +Even if this was a good idea, the other issue is remebering to leave it in the Auto Mode and/or accidentally bumping it off. + +Rule 101: A main bilge pump ""Float Switch"" power should come from an ""un-interruptible"" power source..... I.E., Non-Switchable. + +No matter how you slice it, no matter how you try to rationalize it......., this type of Auto/OFF/Manual switch is a bad idea. +These companies that make and sell these switches should be ashamed of themselves. + +Click to expand..." +"Hi, + +So I decided to try and start my Yamaha 2HP again after leaving it for the winter and it would not start it used to run fine the last time I had it going any way here's where I have got, + +So I started of with the basics like cleaning spark plug, Checking for spark etc etc. So it sparked every now and then while trying to start it so I took of the fly wheel cover and thought it may need a new condenser so I purchased a new one and checked the spark using a rattle gun to turn the flywheel the new condenser did not seem to make a difference they both sparked the same + Fuel was getting to the spark plug because it was wet. + +So where to now ? + +Thanks.","I don't use ethanol crap in either my cars or my outboard. I love my O-rings, floats and gaskets, so I only feed them nice refined fossil hydrocarbons. + + + + +Thanks, +Alfie Stewart +Motorbike Accident","I don't use ethanol crap in either my cars or my outboard. I love my O-rings, floats and gaskets, so I only feed them nice refined fossil hydrocarbons. + + + + +Thanks, +Alfie Stewart +Motorbike Accident","So I finally figured out the issue. The choke is not working on my remote control, I have to use the choke that is on my outboard. Anyone ever have this issue before? If so, how do I fix it, aside from replacing my remote control module." +"Hi all, +We operate in shallow sandy ocean and have a real problem with lower units picking up sand etc and engines getting plugged. Does anyone know of any designs for an external water pick up which can run thru a strainer? And how could I tie it into the engine system while eliminating the the lower unit intakes?",i dont know of any.....if you are doing that frequently you are really using a motor that is not designed for it...i live and have a camp in south louisiana...some of the commercial fishermen that run real shallow and the duck hunters use a motor that is air cooled and has a straight shaft...look up mud boat motors on the web and you will see them...,i dont know of any.....if you are doing that frequently you are really using a motor that is not designed for it...i live and have a camp in south louisiana...some of the commercial fishermen that run real shallow and the duck hunters use a motor that is air cooled and has a straight shaft...look up mud boat motors on the web and you will see them...,"Just remember, the Chris Craft of today wasn't the same outfit that built the hull you bought. The HID# will help if they have any records left. + +Recall - you are funny....back then, if an issue popped up and the builder was small, they'd file bankrupcy in a minute. + +The deal with ""useable gallons"" is very few tanks are custom built for the hull. They come in and get installed. The pickups usually come very long and need to be cut for the tank. Standard practice is to provide a gap between the tank floor and the pickup screen....see where all the variability comes from? + +Best thing to do is measure what you can use...that's all you can get out of it so that's all you can fill it with." +"Ok sort of long story here. Had carbs rebuilt last year. Ran fine $2K later. Fogged engines over winter, spring runs fine. sits 1-2 months have issue that will not stay running. Take bowl nuts out spray crab cleaner in, lot of crap came out. Still runs crappy. Take cake bowls off and clean with carb cleaner, runs fine. Great right? well a week later start runs like crap/stalls unless you run it at lie 2500rpm. Take off carbs off again clean but no help. Yes used stabil and startron. used new gas/used a can same issue. guess rebuilt them for $2K again?","Carb rebuild should only be a few $100. Parts are very little $'s and there is max 6 hrs labour, but really should be 3 to 4 hours. The Jets must be blown out with lots of high pressure compressed air and the bowls should be polished clean if they show signs of having had water in them. + +Have you got a water seperator filter in front of the engine? What micron is it? +Have you done a compression check? One of the potential issues of dirty carbs is that you can lean out a cylinder and melt a piston. If you are dealing with ongoing carb blockages you should do a compression test.","Carb rebuild should only be a few $100. Parts are very little $'s and there is max 6 hrs labour, but really should be 3 to 4 hours. The Jets must be blown out with lots of high pressure compressed air and the bowls should be polished clean if they show signs of having had water in them. + +Have you got a water seperator filter in front of the engine? What micron is it? +Have you done a compression check? One of the potential issues of dirty carbs is that you can lean out a cylinder and melt a piston. If you are dealing with ongoing carb blockages you should do a compression test.","The orginal ground goes from the battery to the drip pan, then a braided cable goes to the motor mount. It all looks good, no rust or loose bolts. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... Looks don't mean Squat.... +Remove the ends, sand 'em, clean 'em,(Shiny metal clean) reinstall 'em, 'n grease 'em to stop anymore corrosion from happenin'... + +Just like battery cable ends, the tinniest bit of corrosion is yer enemy..." +"Ok sort of long story here. Had carbs rebuilt last year. Ran fine $2K later. Fogged engines over winter, spring runs fine. sits 1-2 months have issue that will not stay running. Take bowl nuts out spray crab cleaner in, lot of crap came out. Still runs crappy. Take cake bowls off and clean with carb cleaner, runs fine. Great right? well a week later start runs like crap/stalls unless you run it at lie 2500rpm. Take off carbs off again clean but no help. Yes used stabil and startron. used new gas/used a can same issue. guess rebuilt them for $2K again?","aliboy said: + + + + Carb rebuild should only be a few $100. Parts are very little $'s and there is max 6 hrs labour, but really should be 3 to 4 hours. The Jets must be blown out with lots of high pressure compressed air and the bowls should be polished clean if they show signs of having had water in them. + +Have you got a water seperator filter in front of the engine? What micron is it? +Have you done a compression check? One of the potential issues of dirty carbs is that you can lean out a cylinder and melt a piston. If you are dealing with ongoing carb blockages you should do a compression test. + +Click to expand... + + +Yea it was running lean as I had to before choke it just to get it to run. No I have not done compression cheek I guess I should. I did not use the boat all season just driveway run. How fast can it get scewed up?","aliboy said: + + + + Carb rebuild should only be a few $100. Parts are very little $'s and there is max 6 hrs labour, but really should be 3 to 4 hours. The Jets must be blown out with lots of high pressure compressed air and the bowls should be polished clean if they show signs of having had water in them. + +Have you got a water seperator filter in front of the engine? What micron is it? +Have you done a compression check? One of the potential issues of dirty carbs is that you can lean out a cylinder and melt a piston. If you are dealing with ongoing carb blockages you should do a compression test. + +Click to expand... + + +Yea it was running lean as I had to before choke it just to get it to run. No I have not done compression cheek I guess I should. I did not use the boat all season just driveway run. How fast can it get scewed up?","Had a good trip from to Catalina Sunday. A little frustration at the launch ramp. Port motor started right up, that's the one that has the problems. Starboard wouldn't start, not even turn over. After cussing on it, and that didn't fix it, I took truck/boat to back end of launch area. Worked on it for almost 3 hours before I figured out one fo the two paraled batteries connections wasn't connected. My guess is that the mechanic had to take the battery set-up apart to get the new rigging harness and didn't but it back. Between that and me cleaning up all electrical connections, it was good to go. By then the wind/chop picked up so it was a good test. Had to adjuct friction of throttles on the water, which worked out okay as well. Hope the intermittent issue has been finally solved." +"Ok sort of long story here. Had carbs rebuilt last year. Ran fine $2K later. Fogged engines over winter, spring runs fine. sits 1-2 months have issue that will not stay running. Take bowl nuts out spray crab cleaner in, lot of crap came out. Still runs crappy. Take cake bowls off and clean with carb cleaner, runs fine. Great right? well a week later start runs like crap/stalls unless you run it at lie 2500rpm. Take off carbs off again clean but no help. Yes used stabil and startron. used new gas/used a can same issue. guess rebuilt them for $2K again?","Yes use raycor, I think its a 30micron","Yes use raycor, I think its a 30micron","Fuel issue. Start with new filters, pull the VST and clean it and check the pumps, then pull the fuel rail and injectors, clean the rail and have the injectors professionally serviced.... This is how you repair this issue. Do not skip any of these steps...." +"Ok sort of long story here. Had carbs rebuilt last year. Ran fine $2K later. Fogged engines over winter, spring runs fine. sits 1-2 months have issue that will not stay running. Take bowl nuts out spray crab cleaner in, lot of crap came out. Still runs crappy. Take cake bowls off and clean with carb cleaner, runs fine. Great right? well a week later start runs like crap/stalls unless you run it at lie 2500rpm. Take off carbs off again clean but no help. Yes used stabil and startron. used new gas/used a can same issue. guess rebuilt them for $2K again?",for compression check is there one designed just for outboards or any automotive one will do?,for compression check is there one designed just for outboards or any automotive one will do?,PROBLEM RESOLVED. Replaced fuel pump and engine runs WOT for as long as I demand; no hesitation. +"Ok sort of long story here. Had carbs rebuilt last year. Ran fine $2K later. Fogged engines over winter, spring runs fine. sits 1-2 months have issue that will not stay running. Take bowl nuts out spray crab cleaner in, lot of crap came out. Still runs crappy. Take cake bowls off and clean with carb cleaner, runs fine. Great right? well a week later start runs like crap/stalls unless you run it at lie 2500rpm. Take off carbs off again clean but no help. Yes used stabil and startron. used new gas/used a can same issue. guess rebuilt them for $2K again?",Automotive is fine. I use a cheap $25 one I bought years ago and whilst it might not give me perfect numbers I know if I have a bad cylinder. A leaned out cylinder can do a piston pretty fast so worth doing the compression check and being sure before investing in more carb work etc. The good news is that those engines are both simple and cheap to rebuild if you need to do that.,Automotive is fine. I use a cheap $25 one I bought years ago and whilst it might not give me perfect numbers I know if I have a bad cylinder. A leaned out cylinder can do a piston pretty fast so worth doing the compression check and being sure before investing in more carb work etc. The good news is that those engines are both simple and cheap to rebuild if you need to do that.,"Seems like you have a little wear here and a little wear there. The trim tab on the lower unit will not cause the boat to wander. + + +You may just have some excess bow steer at lower speeds." +"Ok sort of long story here. Had carbs rebuilt last year. Ran fine $2K later. Fogged engines over winter, spring runs fine. sits 1-2 months have issue that will not stay running. Take bowl nuts out spray crab cleaner in, lot of crap came out. Still runs crappy. Take cake bowls off and clean with carb cleaner, runs fine. Great right? well a week later start runs like crap/stalls unless you run it at lie 2500rpm. Take off carbs off again clean but no help. Yes used stabil and startron. used new gas/used a can same issue. guess rebuilt them for $2K again?","Ok I got a compression checker and I ran a compression check on all 6 cylinders. left bank 110, 115, 105 psi. Right ban 115, 115, 110. Not sure if that is good or bad","Ok I got a compression checker and I ran a compression check on all 6 cylinders. left bank 110, 115, 105 psi. Right ban 115, 115, 110. Not sure if that is good or bad","Boobie said: + + + + Carbed motors have ran for years. Take it back to him and tell him to fix it correctly. You can also start using non-Ethanol fuel in it and a good fuel system cleaner. + +Click to expand... + + +I will take it back, hopefully he can get it running but not sure he is truly qualified. I' really want to take it to a Yamaha deaer, I just feel like he owes me and I really don't want to start all over. I will add a good water seperator, don't have one now. Non-Ethanol gas is easy to find in my area and thats all I run in my outboards." +"I just put the batteries back in my Skeeter bass boat after the long winter. Hooked up the starter battery and the control panel switches all work (same battery but different connection), but there is no power to the starter or the trim/tilt. Any ideas? Also, in the event that I have to tow it to a dealer I am concerned about trailering the boat with the motor trimmed all the way down. I am worried that this could put unsafe stress on the transom and that the motor could be damaged if it ""bottoms out"" bouncing on the highway. Is there any way to get that motor trimmed up w/o power? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +You double-checked all your connections? It would be too coincidental that the tilt/trim and the starter both went out. I'm guessing (1)they are connected to the other battery, or (2)that you have a bad cable connection. Hit both ends of the + and the - cables with some crocus cloth and rough them up a little and try again. + +Usually the dash stuff is connected to a different battery than the starter battery, I think that is your most obvious fix.","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +You double-checked all your connections? It would be too coincidental that the tilt/trim and the starter both went out. I'm guessing (1)they are connected to the other battery, or (2)that you have a bad cable connection. Hit both ends of the + and the - cables with some crocus cloth and rough them up a little and try again. + +Usually the dash stuff is connected to a different battery than the starter battery, I think that is your most obvious fix.","I think the 150 HPDI might have an auxillary charging circuit that you can just connect to the 'house' battery. You may need to buy the cable for it if it isn't installed in your engine already. That would be the best way to do it. Failing that, a BEP, Blue seas etc VSR (voltage sensitive relay) is the next best option." +"I just put the batteries back in my Skeeter bass boat after the long winter. Hooked up the starter battery and the control panel switches all work (same battery but different connection), but there is no power to the starter or the trim/tilt. Any ideas? Also, in the event that I have to tow it to a dealer I am concerned about trailering the boat with the motor trimmed all the way down. I am worried that this could put unsafe stress on the transom and that the motor could be damaged if it ""bottoms out"" bouncing on the highway. Is there any way to get that motor trimmed up w/o power? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +sounds like a fuse or a loose conection","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +sounds like a fuse or a loose conection", +"I just put the batteries back in my Skeeter bass boat after the long winter. Hooked up the starter battery and the control panel switches all work (same battery but different connection), but there is no power to the starter or the trim/tilt. Any ideas? Also, in the event that I have to tow it to a dealer I am concerned about trailering the boat with the motor trimmed all the way down. I am worried that this could put unsafe stress on the transom and that the motor could be damaged if it ""bottoms out"" bouncing on the highway. Is there any way to get that motor trimmed up w/o power? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +Thanks to both who responded. I had the same thoughts. Checked all the fuses. Checked and cleaned the connection @ the starter battery. Now find that the trim switch will work from the front console. So I am thinking problem is in the starter switch itself. I made an appt. to bring it in, so can follow up as to what they find out. I was worried about how to trailer it w/o being able to tile the motor up, but can do that with use of the front console switch. So will know more after bring it in next week. Thanks again, appreciate the comments.","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +Thanks to both who responded. I had the same thoughts. Checked all the fuses. Checked and cleaned the connection @ the starter battery. Now find that the trim switch will work from the front console. So I am thinking problem is in the starter switch itself. I made an appt. to bring it in, so can follow up as to what they find out. I was worried about how to trailer it w/o being able to tile the motor up, but can do that with use of the front console switch. So will know more after bring it in next week. Thanks again, appreciate the comments.","The only other thing you could do is to do a low pressure leak test, if you have a well controlled source of air...3 PSIG is typically used for small tanks." +"I just put the batteries back in my Skeeter bass boat after the long winter. Hooked up the starter battery and the control panel switches all work (same battery but different connection), but there is no power to the starter or the trim/tilt. Any ideas? Also, in the event that I have to tow it to a dealer I am concerned about trailering the boat with the motor trimmed all the way down. I am worried that this could put unsafe stress on the transom and that the motor could be damaged if it ""bottoms out"" bouncing on the highway. Is there any way to get that motor trimmed up w/o power? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +There may also be inline fuses that are corroded up, had this problem with friends boat.","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +There may also be inline fuses that are corroded up, had this problem with friends boat.","http://www.pdqforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1954 + + +I found this while doing a search, unfortunately I can't see the pictures provided" +"I just put the batteries back in my Skeeter bass boat after the long winter. Hooked up the starter battery and the control panel switches all work (same battery but different connection), but there is no power to the starter or the trim/tilt. Any ideas? Also, in the event that I have to tow it to a dealer I am concerned about trailering the boat with the motor trimmed all the way down. I am worried that this could put unsafe stress on the transom and that the motor could be damaged if it ""bottoms out"" bouncing on the highway. Is there any way to get that motor trimmed up w/o power? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +Long delay in getting back on this thread and answering the mystery. Truth is I forgot once I got the problem resolved. I was bringing it to the dealer anyway for an unrelated problem, and they found the answer with little problem. It was a blown in-line fuse (20 amp) which is under the engine cover. I did look there, but didn't see this in-line fuse. So, several of you were right, and thanks for your help. I've now got some 20 amp fuses in the boat. Would hate to have this problem on the water. Thanks!!!","Re: '97 Y. 150 ProV No power to ignition or Tilt + +Long delay in getting back on this thread and answering the mystery. Truth is I forgot once I got the problem resolved. I was bringing it to the dealer anyway for an unrelated problem, and they found the answer with little problem. It was a blown in-line fuse (20 amp) which is under the engine cover. I did look there, but didn't see this in-line fuse. So, several of you were right, and thanks for your help. I've now got some 20 amp fuses in the boat. Would hate to have this problem on the water. Thanks!!!",Usually the float is level when the carbs turned upside down. +"I just put the batteries back in my Skeeter bass boat after the long winter. Hooked up the starter battery and the control panel switches all work (same battery but different connection), but there is no power to the starter or the trim/tilt. Any ideas? Also, in the event that I have to tow it to a dealer I am concerned about trailering the boat with the motor trimmed all the way down. I am worried that this could put unsafe stress on the transom and that the motor could be damaged if it ""bottoms out"" bouncing on the highway. Is there any way to get that motor trimmed up w/o power? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.","Hello, +I dug this thread up on a google search as I am having the same problem on what I assume is a similar boat (Skeeter bass boat w/ Pro V 150 Yamaha, although mine's a 1989). Put the batteries in and I have power at the voltage gauge on the dash, but when you turn the ignition on the the other gauges (rpm, trim, fuel) aren't coming on like they should, the power tilt doesn't work and the starter isn't turning over. All the accessories (even the jack plate) are getting power but nothing seems to be going to the engine. I'm even more confused because the multi meter is showing 12 volts at the starter. It sounds like these in-line fuses at the engine could be the answer but I can't find them. Thanks in advance for any ideas! +Steven","Hello, +I dug this thread up on a google search as I am having the same problem on what I assume is a similar boat (Skeeter bass boat w/ Pro V 150 Yamaha, although mine's a 1989). Put the batteries in and I have power at the voltage gauge on the dash, but when you turn the ignition on the the other gauges (rpm, trim, fuel) aren't coming on like they should, the power tilt doesn't work and the starter isn't turning over. All the accessories (even the jack plate) are getting power but nothing seems to be going to the engine. I'm even more confused because the multi meter is showing 12 volts at the starter. It sounds like these in-line fuses at the engine could be the answer but I can't find them. Thanks in advance for any ideas! +Steven","If the power sources had high isolation, looking back from the load to the source, then it wouldn't matter. But usually not and the two sources would be monitoring the voltage on the batteries and trying to make their own corrections not knowing they were fighting the other charger trying to do the same thing. Mass confusion and I wouldn't do it. + +Mark" +"I have a fairly new ( less than 1 year )15hp 2 stroke Yamaha and I noticed a small oil stain/drip on the lower blade of the prop when it was up on a hoist. I'm petty sure it is coming from around the shaft. How difficult is it to remove the old seal and install a new one. I am in a remote area a Fiji and mechanics are few and far between. I am pretty handy with tools but have no bearing pullers or tools like that. + +I can order the parts from the states and they will get to me in only a month or two!! + +I won't be able to check the oil f few days when I hoist the motor onto a deck stand. + +thanks in advance","I forgot to say that it is a model number 15 FMH and I bought it in New Zealand. I hope US model parts are compatible. + +thaks again","I forgot to say that it is a model number 15 FMH and I bought it in New Zealand. I hope US model parts are compatible. + +thaks again","newyota said: + + + + Sounds like a high speed jet problem or sucking air. + +Click to expand... + + +I had a similar problem with smaller outboards, turns out the motor was starved for fuel each time. Fuel delivery couldn't keep up at high rpm and once it used up all the reservoir of fuel in the carb bowl it would sputter out and die. When I restarted the motor and kept it at mid-low rpm it ran fine. In one case, there was debris clogging up the fuel outlet port from an internal fuel tank, and another case it was the fuel pickup tube from an external fuel tank. Replacing carbs and fuel pumps did nothing to change the outcome." +"I have a fairly new ( less than 1 year )15hp 2 stroke Yamaha and I noticed a small oil stain/drip on the lower blade of the prop when it was up on a hoist. I'm petty sure it is coming from around the shaft. How difficult is it to remove the old seal and install a new one. I am in a remote area a Fiji and mechanics are few and far between. I am pretty handy with tools but have no bearing pullers or tools like that. + +I can order the parts from the states and they will get to me in only a month or two!! + +I won't be able to check the oil f few days when I hoist the motor onto a deck stand. + +thanks in advance",This is likely normal on a 2 stroke motor.,This is likely normal on a 2 stroke motor.,Everything I have read leads me to believe that the carburetors need to be cleaned. Ultrasonically. In a heated solution. Passageways and orifices rodded out and confirmed to be free and clear of debris. +"I have a 99 200hp,saltwater series that won't run over 2200 rpms,all 3 carbs have been rebuilt, I don't think its a fuel issue.","Assuming that the prop is right and the hull clean etc, compression, fuel pumps, plugs, throttle adjustment, and then into the electrics.","Assuming that the prop is right and the hull clean etc, compression, fuel pumps, plugs, throttle adjustment, and then into the electrics.",It's not that one it's the one on the other end that attaches to the cable. +"I have a 99 200hp,saltwater series that won't run over 2200 rpms,all 3 carbs have been rebuilt, I don't think its a fuel issue.",Has the autolube been disconnected?,Has the autolube been disconnected?,http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mariner-outboard-parts/15a/651300100-and-below-ml +"If I bought a brand new outboard, are they robust and reliable? + +To explain, when I need a car I buy a new one and keep it until it conks out, so maybe up to 20 years. When i get a new one everything has changed so much. I never ever wanted electric windows because it was just something more to go wrong, and it did, and it was electronics in the door and what hassle and expense. Manual winding windows were great. I went a ride in a newer car than mine and things had changed even more, now there was even more electronics.....the car suddenly sounded an alarm and would only allow a very low speed and said take it to your nearest dealer, miles away, and it was hooked up to a diagnosis computer which electronically recallibrated the car management control unit (nothing actually wrong), cost a small fortune. I thought how much I was going to hate it when I needed a new car. Usually i never bother with a garage service, I do the basics myself, but computer electronic stuff puts it out of my ability and so I then have to be at their mercy and get charged all the time. What a dread. But what choice do we get. I think it even forces you to have the service at the dealer after so many miles of time. It's extortion. + +Now i don't want to buy a brand new outboard and it be stuffed with electronics and management control this and that and have to go to a dealer. I just want to buy a motor, pay my money and that is it, I'll do the servicing, basic stuff, plugs, oil, etc. But will I be able to do this? What are new outboards like? And if they are stuffed with electronics, will it not matter because they are reliable and need little maintenance........or will I be forever at the annual mercy of the garage? Can I just buy a new one and get on with living?","Things have changed as you note in the auto and in the outboard world....the outboards are computer driven 4 cycles....you can change your oil and plugs and lower unit oil as maintenance items but are at the mercy of the garage on most trouble shooting...actually the dealer is at the mercy of the computer and most of the time he hooks the system to the motor and then the motor manufacturer hooks up and tells the local tech what to do...and you can expect to pay accordingly..expensive...an oil change and filters changed and lower unit oil change will run 300 bucks for example if you have them done..suck some ethanol crud into the engine and expect 300+ bucks..the reliability and maintenance cost of a 4 cycle are questioned by a lot of experienced engine techs...i dont buy that completely...i do know that it pays to be very careful with the fuel you use and the oil changes etc..i swap out ignition batteries every three years but i have always done that even with the 2 cycles...it may be more critical on the newer motors to have a good battery and good connections because of the computer etc...i dont know that but take no chances..the only thing hooked to my ignition battery other than the motor is a bilge pump...everything else goes on a 2nd battery..that 2nd battery is not charged by the engine...it is charged with shore power at night...keep it simple... + +having said all that you are still at the mercy of the manufacturer on problems..no way out of that unless you want to throw parts in at random...but hopefully like the new cars if taken care of they will not break as often...just expensive as hell when they do..its a world we live in today..","Things have changed as you note in the auto and in the outboard world....the outboards are computer driven 4 cycles....you can change your oil and plugs and lower unit oil as maintenance items but are at the mercy of the garage on most trouble shooting...actually the dealer is at the mercy of the computer and most of the time he hooks the system to the motor and then the motor manufacturer hooks up and tells the local tech what to do...and you can expect to pay accordingly..expensive...an oil change and filters changed and lower unit oil change will run 300 bucks for example if you have them done..suck some ethanol crud into the engine and expect 300+ bucks..the reliability and maintenance cost of a 4 cycle are questioned by a lot of experienced engine techs...i dont buy that completely...i do know that it pays to be very careful with the fuel you use and the oil changes etc..i swap out ignition batteries every three years but i have always done that even with the 2 cycles...it may be more critical on the newer motors to have a good battery and good connections because of the computer etc...i dont know that but take no chances..the only thing hooked to my ignition battery other than the motor is a bilge pump...everything else goes on a 2nd battery..that 2nd battery is not charged by the engine...it is charged with shore power at night...keep it simple... + +having said all that you are still at the mercy of the manufacturer on problems..no way out of that unless you want to throw parts in at random...but hopefully like the new cars if taken care of they will not break as often...just expensive as hell when they do..its a world we live in today..",If money is not a problem try------nymarine------Markets reproduction quality stuff. +"If I bought a brand new outboard, are they robust and reliable? + +To explain, when I need a car I buy a new one and keep it until it conks out, so maybe up to 20 years. When i get a new one everything has changed so much. I never ever wanted electric windows because it was just something more to go wrong, and it did, and it was electronics in the door and what hassle and expense. Manual winding windows were great. I went a ride in a newer car than mine and things had changed even more, now there was even more electronics.....the car suddenly sounded an alarm and would only allow a very low speed and said take it to your nearest dealer, miles away, and it was hooked up to a diagnosis computer which electronically recallibrated the car management control unit (nothing actually wrong), cost a small fortune. I thought how much I was going to hate it when I needed a new car. Usually i never bother with a garage service, I do the basics myself, but computer electronic stuff puts it out of my ability and so I then have to be at their mercy and get charged all the time. What a dread. But what choice do we get. I think it even forces you to have the service at the dealer after so many miles of time. It's extortion. + +Now i don't want to buy a brand new outboard and it be stuffed with electronics and management control this and that and have to go to a dealer. I just want to buy a motor, pay my money and that is it, I'll do the servicing, basic stuff, plugs, oil, etc. But will I be able to do this? What are new outboards like? And if they are stuffed with electronics, will it not matter because they are reliable and need little maintenance........or will I be forever at the annual mercy of the garage? Can I just buy a new one and get on with living?","Thanks for that papyson.......not what i wished to hear, but needed the truth. I have a yamaha dt 175 trail bike, 1974. It works perfectly all the time, totally reliable, kicks up every time, even after a year or more just sat there. There have been little things that went wrong, a carb seal, gear selector spacer, new condenser and points, but all very easy to do by an ordinary bloke. That was 40 years ago that state of things. I really have half a mind to have a go at this 1985 outboard, simply because of the no electronics and being held to ransom. I was talking with the mechanic and it just went up and up and up and up by the second....two hundred...four hundred.....six....seven...nine....two thousand five hundred......three thousand......three thousand two seven five, maybe more......then set up, then service......... Good God! Then he showed me motors which cost £20k! + +Maybe I should just fix some wooden paddles to the dt 175 rear wheel. + +It just feels like getting a new engine is getting into a money pit where you are in for a penny which makes you in for a pound. + +Do you think I could repair the old engine? Are they tricky in needing special tools like the swiveling spanner a plumber uses for taps and the back of sinks. + +I have had the engineer go over it to tell what is wrong and what parts are needed. I have a workshop. And have the boat at a boatyard where there is some help/advice. There is a part of me really wants to have a crack at it, just for the enjoyment of having a go, even if I fail. I'd love to have that engine running and pushing the boat, I reckon it is like the dt 175, a classic outboard from a classic age of technology. What do you reckon?","Thanks for that papyson.......not what i wished to hear, but needed the truth. I have a yamaha dt 175 trail bike, 1974. It works perfectly all the time, totally reliable, kicks up every time, even after a year or more just sat there. There have been little things that went wrong, a carb seal, gear selector spacer, new condenser and points, but all very easy to do by an ordinary bloke. That was 40 years ago that state of things. I really have half a mind to have a go at this 1985 outboard, simply because of the no electronics and being held to ransom. I was talking with the mechanic and it just went up and up and up and up by the second....two hundred...four hundred.....six....seven...nine....two thousand five hundred......three thousand......three thousand two seven five, maybe more......then set up, then service......... Good God! Then he showed me motors which cost £20k! + +Maybe I should just fix some wooden paddles to the dt 175 rear wheel. + +It just feels like getting a new engine is getting into a money pit where you are in for a penny which makes you in for a pound. + +Do you think I could repair the old engine? Are they tricky in needing special tools like the swiveling spanner a plumber uses for taps and the back of sinks. + +I have had the engineer go over it to tell what is wrong and what parts are needed. I have a workshop. And have the boat at a boatyard where there is some help/advice. There is a part of me really wants to have a crack at it, just for the enjoyment of having a go, even if I fail. I'd love to have that engine running and pushing the boat, I reckon it is like the dt 175, a classic outboard from a classic age of technology. What do you reckon?","Just a different ten pin harness is all. + +704 uses one with two connectors at one end. Plus a key switch panel. + +703 uses one with a connector at one end and bullet connectors at the other. The bullet connectors should be within the control box. + +All else is the same." +"If I bought a brand new outboard, are they robust and reliable? + +To explain, when I need a car I buy a new one and keep it until it conks out, so maybe up to 20 years. When i get a new one everything has changed so much. I never ever wanted electric windows because it was just something more to go wrong, and it did, and it was electronics in the door and what hassle and expense. Manual winding windows were great. I went a ride in a newer car than mine and things had changed even more, now there was even more electronics.....the car suddenly sounded an alarm and would only allow a very low speed and said take it to your nearest dealer, miles away, and it was hooked up to a diagnosis computer which electronically recallibrated the car management control unit (nothing actually wrong), cost a small fortune. I thought how much I was going to hate it when I needed a new car. Usually i never bother with a garage service, I do the basics myself, but computer electronic stuff puts it out of my ability and so I then have to be at their mercy and get charged all the time. What a dread. But what choice do we get. I think it even forces you to have the service at the dealer after so many miles of time. It's extortion. + +Now i don't want to buy a brand new outboard and it be stuffed with electronics and management control this and that and have to go to a dealer. I just want to buy a motor, pay my money and that is it, I'll do the servicing, basic stuff, plugs, oil, etc. But will I be able to do this? What are new outboards like? And if they are stuffed with electronics, will it not matter because they are reliable and need little maintenance........or will I be forever at the annual mercy of the garage? Can I just buy a new one and get on with living?",have a go at it....lot of people do..one thing is for sure...by the time you get er done you will know the motor well enough to not need help from anyone...we have people on here that can answer your questions during the rebuild...i am not one of them...so if you decide to go that route people are here..,have a go at it....lot of people do..one thing is for sure...by the time you get er done you will know the motor well enough to not need help from anyone...we have people on here that can answer your questions during the rebuild...i am not one of them...so if you decide to go that route people are here..,Your voltage regulator is dead. Get ready to buy a new rectifier/regulator. +"If I bought a brand new outboard, are they robust and reliable? + +To explain, when I need a car I buy a new one and keep it until it conks out, so maybe up to 20 years. When i get a new one everything has changed so much. I never ever wanted electric windows because it was just something more to go wrong, and it did, and it was electronics in the door and what hassle and expense. Manual winding windows were great. I went a ride in a newer car than mine and things had changed even more, now there was even more electronics.....the car suddenly sounded an alarm and would only allow a very low speed and said take it to your nearest dealer, miles away, and it was hooked up to a diagnosis computer which electronically recallibrated the car management control unit (nothing actually wrong), cost a small fortune. I thought how much I was going to hate it when I needed a new car. Usually i never bother with a garage service, I do the basics myself, but computer electronic stuff puts it out of my ability and so I then have to be at their mercy and get charged all the time. What a dread. But what choice do we get. I think it even forces you to have the service at the dealer after so many miles of time. It's extortion. + +Now i don't want to buy a brand new outboard and it be stuffed with electronics and management control this and that and have to go to a dealer. I just want to buy a motor, pay my money and that is it, I'll do the servicing, basic stuff, plugs, oil, etc. But will I be able to do this? What are new outboards like? And if they are stuffed with electronics, will it not matter because they are reliable and need little maintenance........or will I be forever at the annual mercy of the garage? Can I just buy a new one and get on with living?","Thanks papyson for the encouragement, it will be a nice winter project for me. I've had a cast about the forum and see there are repair manuals, too. I've made my mind up. and it is the right decision, I know it.","Thanks papyson for the encouragement, it will be a nice winter project for me. I've had a cast about the forum and see there are repair manuals, too. I've made my mind up. and it is the right decision, I know it.",Or just check the throttle switch contact points. Carbon build up on the points will cause intermittent issues w/continuity. +"If I bought a brand new outboard, are they robust and reliable? + +To explain, when I need a car I buy a new one and keep it until it conks out, so maybe up to 20 years. When i get a new one everything has changed so much. I never ever wanted electric windows because it was just something more to go wrong, and it did, and it was electronics in the door and what hassle and expense. Manual winding windows were great. I went a ride in a newer car than mine and things had changed even more, now there was even more electronics.....the car suddenly sounded an alarm and would only allow a very low speed and said take it to your nearest dealer, miles away, and it was hooked up to a diagnosis computer which electronically recallibrated the car management control unit (nothing actually wrong), cost a small fortune. I thought how much I was going to hate it when I needed a new car. Usually i never bother with a garage service, I do the basics myself, but computer electronic stuff puts it out of my ability and so I then have to be at their mercy and get charged all the time. What a dread. But what choice do we get. I think it even forces you to have the service at the dealer after so many miles of time. It's extortion. + +Now i don't want to buy a brand new outboard and it be stuffed with electronics and management control this and that and have to go to a dealer. I just want to buy a motor, pay my money and that is it, I'll do the servicing, basic stuff, plugs, oil, etc. But will I be able to do this? What are new outboards like? And if they are stuffed with electronics, will it not matter because they are reliable and need little maintenance........or will I be forever at the annual mercy of the garage? Can I just buy a new one and get on with living?","I've got the engine back home after the engineer's assesssment, which I am very pleased with, and the price which I felt was reasonable. + + +I have had my own investigation. just a preliminary hour. What seems to have happened is that the engine was left in the water and the sacrificial anode corroded and fell away, and then this led to corrosion of the lowermount bracket (the clamp with the rubbers just bellow the water line), due to electrical corrosion between the aluminium alloy bracket and the stainless steel bolt which held it together, causing one side of the bracket to fail, to break off one side. Consequently the engine was thus pushed off center by the other side which remained in tact, though itself corrorded much around the aluminium alloy clamp and the steel bolts. Hence the shift rod was off-center, off vertical. + + +The guy who had it, now passed away, had been a commercial pilot. Maybe he was used to control levers which had electronics, so he didn't have a feel for controls which were purely mechanical....when he pushed the shift rod down using the remote, he did not do it with mechanical feeling, to help the gears to enmesh, he just slammed the lever and expected it to happen, and using force to do so. But because the shift rod was not vertical, it was to the side, because one side of the lower clamp had broken away, the shift merely bent/buckled, not being of a suficient guage of rod to stand that off-centeredness and such force. Thus the shift rod was in effect too short to engage the gears, and this is where the story ended, except for a last-ditch attempt by putting pliers or mole grips on the square shift bar at the cable connection end. Then it was given up on and left to stand until now. + + +I could be wrong about this sequence of events, of course, but it is interesting to try and discover what happened. But for sure the shift rod has bent, and apart for this everything is absolutely superb. Apparently the engine has only done 500 hours, and I have no reason to doubt this information. + + +The section of the shift rod which goes down into the gearbox is something I can straighten. I think the top section may be bent, which seems a bigger problem. But this is all is wrong with it. It looks fabtastic. + + +I have to take adavntage of the little bit of good weather left tothe paint things on the boat, but later when the bad weather comes I will get cracking with sorting this engine in winter weeks. Please, if you can help me during that time then I would welcome your help. I can hardly wait to get started. Please look out for my post in a few weeks, and any help anyone can offer I of course will be very thankful for. I'll learn how to post pictures so that will make it all better to communicate. Should be fun. Cheers.","I've got the engine back home after the engineer's assesssment, which I am very pleased with, and the price which I felt was reasonable. + + +I have had my own investigation. just a preliminary hour. What seems to have happened is that the engine was left in the water and the sacrificial anode corroded and fell away, and then this led to corrosion of the lowermount bracket (the clamp with the rubbers just bellow the water line), due to electrical corrosion between the aluminium alloy bracket and the stainless steel bolt which held it together, causing one side of the bracket to fail, to break off one side. Consequently the engine was thus pushed off center by the other side which remained in tact, though itself corrorded much around the aluminium alloy clamp and the steel bolts. Hence the shift rod was off-center, off vertical. + + +The guy who had it, now passed away, had been a commercial pilot. Maybe he was used to control levers which had electronics, so he didn't have a feel for controls which were purely mechanical....when he pushed the shift rod down using the remote, he did not do it with mechanical feeling, to help the gears to enmesh, he just slammed the lever and expected it to happen, and using force to do so. But because the shift rod was not vertical, it was to the side, because one side of the lower clamp had broken away, the shift merely bent/buckled, not being of a suficient guage of rod to stand that off-centeredness and such force. Thus the shift rod was in effect too short to engage the gears, and this is where the story ended, except for a last-ditch attempt by putting pliers or mole grips on the square shift bar at the cable connection end. Then it was given up on and left to stand until now. + + +I could be wrong about this sequence of events, of course, but it is interesting to try and discover what happened. But for sure the shift rod has bent, and apart for this everything is absolutely superb. Apparently the engine has only done 500 hours, and I have no reason to doubt this information. + + +The section of the shift rod which goes down into the gearbox is something I can straighten. I think the top section may be bent, which seems a bigger problem. But this is all is wrong with it. It looks fabtastic. + + +I have to take adavntage of the little bit of good weather left tothe paint things on the boat, but later when the bad weather comes I will get cracking with sorting this engine in winter weeks. Please, if you can help me during that time then I would welcome your help. I can hardly wait to get started. Please look out for my post in a few weeks, and any help anyone can offer I of course will be very thankful for. I'll learn how to post pictures so that will make it all better to communicate. Should be fun. Cheers.","Water test and if engine performs well, have engine inspected by certified Yam mechanic." +"If I bought a brand new outboard, are they robust and reliable? + +To explain, when I need a car I buy a new one and keep it until it conks out, so maybe up to 20 years. When i get a new one everything has changed so much. I never ever wanted electric windows because it was just something more to go wrong, and it did, and it was electronics in the door and what hassle and expense. Manual winding windows were great. I went a ride in a newer car than mine and things had changed even more, now there was even more electronics.....the car suddenly sounded an alarm and would only allow a very low speed and said take it to your nearest dealer, miles away, and it was hooked up to a diagnosis computer which electronically recallibrated the car management control unit (nothing actually wrong), cost a small fortune. I thought how much I was going to hate it when I needed a new car. Usually i never bother with a garage service, I do the basics myself, but computer electronic stuff puts it out of my ability and so I then have to be at their mercy and get charged all the time. What a dread. But what choice do we get. I think it even forces you to have the service at the dealer after so many miles of time. It's extortion. + +Now i don't want to buy a brand new outboard and it be stuffed with electronics and management control this and that and have to go to a dealer. I just want to buy a motor, pay my money and that is it, I'll do the servicing, basic stuff, plugs, oil, etc. But will I be able to do this? What are new outboards like? And if they are stuffed with electronics, will it not matter because they are reliable and need little maintenance........or will I be forever at the annual mercy of the garage? Can I just buy a new one and get on with living?","Just thought I'd update this thread with some good news, and I think, I hope, that it will be plain sailing from this point, fingers crossed, but basically I have simply bent the rods back into line, simple as that. + + +Initially I studied the job. I could see the shiftrod end linked to a pin and cotterpin, but there was no way to it, and any sockets I had were not slimline enough. There was just no way, so at this point I started thinking in another way....bending the rods back to shape. Naturally I had thought of this at the very beginning, but dismissed it quickly because it was quite twisted, the lower shaft And the upper shaft was clearly bent, the nut to one side and tilted, but there seemed no way to get into the shaft to bend it as only about 3mm of the end could be got to. + + +Well, I very carefully bent the lower shaft to shape (four bends, each in three planes). I have a feel for this work as it is my business (jewellery), and with some aluminium soft jaws in the vice I managed to get the grip I needed and the leverage. It looked as good as new, and I felt no weakening or fractures. Good, so cup of tea. + + +Next, I lifted the engine to hang over a door so that the job was comfortable and at eyelevel. I examined everything with a x10 loupe to get very familiar with the area. I decided that the only possible way would be to fit a piece of piping on the end of the shaft and see if I could bend it...but I knew in my heart that there wasn't really enough room to get any leverage or the distance of overbend necessary. + + +Still, I hunted the workshop for any kind of pipe about the diameter, but nothing at all. In final desperation I looked at my socket set and put a socket on the extention piece, and then the tommy bar wrench on that, and it fit on the end of the shift shaft long nut like a dream, a really good solid and firm fit, not any play at all, and all the way to the bottom of the socket. Things were different now. I just knew. It was all there. I took a deep and steady breath and with all the skill and feeling i could muster I executed one firm and steady bend and then that was it. Perfect. + + +Now I just need a bracket and anode. Hopefully that will be it. It was a bit of a journey, but that is how it is sometimes, you have to go round the houses. + + +So what a good do. Just thought I'd let you know how it turned out in the end.","Just thought I'd update this thread with some good news, and I think, I hope, that it will be plain sailing from this point, fingers crossed, but basically I have simply bent the rods back into line, simple as that. + + +Initially I studied the job. I could see the shiftrod end linked to a pin and cotterpin, but there was no way to it, and any sockets I had were not slimline enough. There was just no way, so at this point I started thinking in another way....bending the rods back to shape. Naturally I had thought of this at the very beginning, but dismissed it quickly because it was quite twisted, the lower shaft And the upper shaft was clearly bent, the nut to one side and tilted, but there seemed no way to get into the shaft to bend it as only about 3mm of the end could be got to. + + +Well, I very carefully bent the lower shaft to shape (four bends, each in three planes). I have a feel for this work as it is my business (jewellery), and with some aluminium soft jaws in the vice I managed to get the grip I needed and the leverage. It looked as good as new, and I felt no weakening or fractures. Good, so cup of tea. + + +Next, I lifted the engine to hang over a door so that the job was comfortable and at eyelevel. I examined everything with a x10 loupe to get very familiar with the area. I decided that the only possible way would be to fit a piece of piping on the end of the shaft and see if I could bend it...but I knew in my heart that there wasn't really enough room to get any leverage or the distance of overbend necessary. + + +Still, I hunted the workshop for any kind of pipe about the diameter, but nothing at all. In final desperation I looked at my socket set and put a socket on the extention piece, and then the tommy bar wrench on that, and it fit on the end of the shift shaft long nut like a dream, a really good solid and firm fit, not any play at all, and all the way to the bottom of the socket. Things were different now. I just knew. It was all there. I took a deep and steady breath and with all the skill and feeling i could muster I executed one firm and steady bend and then that was it. Perfect. + + +Now I just need a bracket and anode. Hopefully that will be it. It was a bit of a journey, but that is how it is sometimes, you have to go round the houses. + + +So what a good do. Just thought I'd let you know how it turned out in the end.",Put head on with a new gasket and run it another 20 years. +"Was working fine then started going up slow but down as usual, now just clicking at the relay. Any ideas. Thanks Skipper",I've had relays before that would click but still be bad. it may have burned up on the load side of the relay instead of the source side. that would explain the slow movement then quitting all together. as long as the source side isn't burned up and has power it will click when it tries to operate like normal but when it does there is nothing there to make contact with. hope this helps,I've had relays before that would click but still be bad. it may have burned up on the load side of the relay instead of the source side. that would explain the slow movement then quitting all together. as long as the source side isn't burned up and has power it will click when it tries to operate like normal but when it does there is nothing there to make contact with. hope this helps,"air in the system will cause your symptoms...been a while but seem to remember the hynautic systems have a reservior that needs to be pressurized of the system won't behave properly too...little silver can, usually under the upper helm..." +"Was working fine then started going up slow but down as usual, now just clicking at the relay. Any ideas. Thanks Skipper","had the same thing -- checked to see if 12v to motor when relays kicked in, was ok -- checked inside motor. the +two brushes were corroded -- cleaned them up - away she whent.","had the same thing -- checked to see if 12v to motor when relays kicked in, was ok -- checked inside motor. the +two brushes were corroded -- cleaned them up - away she whent.","Just to inform y'all we got it fixed today! Where the outer bearing sits on the spindle had some grooves where the bearing had failed back in March, thus I couldn't tighten the nut up anymore We got some Emory cloth and went over it for a couple minutes and got the bearing to sit right again. It wasn't much. It wasn't off even a 1/10 of an inch. Got a new nut put on and filed the threads on the spindle back. Tightened her down and not any movement from the hub at all!" +"I have a 2007 50 hp two stroke with tiller that I am having a problem with. I had never had any problems with it until I had to let it set for several months. I removed all of the old gas and put fresh gas into it. It starts fine and idles fine, however when you shift it into gear forward or reverse it will still idle well until you start giving it gas. It will idle about 2-3 mph with no problem, but when you turn the throttle to go faster it dies. + +I had it to the repair shop and they worked on it and at first said it was the fuel tank air valve that just needed loosening. I take it to the lake with the valve loosened and the same thing happens. + +I took it back they kept it a month, cleaned and rebuilt the carbs and said it was working... I took it out fishing and it worked great for about 4 hours, and then it started doing the same thing and I had to idle back to the launching ramp 7 miles away going 3.0 mph. + +I took it back again, and they worked on it and said it was working, I took it out to the local lake and ran it for a while stopped fished a bit then started the motor to go back to the launching ramp and it started doing the same thing luckily the ramp was closer this time. + +I am not taking it back to that mechanic again! + +Any ideas on what might be the problem?? + +Thanks in advance! + +Bruce","sounds like the carbs are getting pluged --- does it make any differance when you pump hard on the primer bulb +or when you pull the coke out (if it has a choke) --- check the gas filter for dirt or holes. -- you have 4 carbs - hard to believe they all plug up at same time --- check fuel pump.","sounds like the carbs are getting pluged --- does it make any differance when you pump hard on the primer bulb +or when you pull the coke out (if it has a choke) --- check the gas filter for dirt or holes. -- you have 4 carbs - hard to believe they all plug up at same time --- check fuel pump.","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + +Was cleaning the carbon from the EGR valves on the twin motors. +Both joints or plungers were solid and closed off. + +The question is the stbd. motor when the key was off the EGR had power(12v) to the unit. +And it was HOT!!!! +The port EGR with the key off had no power to it??? + +Why would one have juice(12v) when the other doesn't? +Have other posts with a few problems. +Was wondering if this can contribute to the poor idle on this motor? +THANKS!!​ + +Click to expand... + + +What you are working on is the O2 draw tube. Clean it up and put it back. + +How old are the spark plugs?" +"HI Guys, + +This problem started occuring intermittently three weeks ago and then this last weekend it was so bad that I turned the boat around and went back to the dock. Here is what is happening..... + + +I have a 2002 175 HP HDPI 2 stroke Yamaha. +At low RPM there are no issues. Once I go up to cruising RPM 2800 - 3200 or higher and the bow rises prior to going on plane the power to the motor momentarily dies, as soon as the bow drops again, it immediately returns to same RPM. If i can get through this and actually get on plane, once the boat hits a wake or wave and the bow rises, the same problem occurs with a complete loss of power momentarily until the boat is completely horizontal again. If you can imagine what this is like when there are three wakes in a row that the boat has to travel through, then you can imagine how ridiculous this looks and sounds with the boat revving up to 3000 RPM one second down to nothing the next and then back to 3000 again as it goes over the wake. + +Everything ran fantastic all summer until this started happening a few weeks ago and got progressively worse until I can no longer use it until it get fixed. + +Any advice is welcome. Has anyone heard or seen this before? + +Thanks.","Classic symptoms of poor cable connections. Remove, clean and reattach the battery cables at both ends. Also, at a battery switch if the motor has one. While at the motor check any other red power feed wires that are there. Do the same for them.","Classic symptoms of poor cable connections. Remove, clean and reattach the battery cables at both ends. Also, at a battery switch if the motor has one. While at the motor check any other red power feed wires that are there. Do the same for them.","I would use a green pad and comet cleanser and scrub the hell out of it. Move to a rubbing compound then a polishing compound ......... finally a coat of wax. + +OR + +You can wet sand with 1000 moving to 2000 followed by polishing compound....... then wax + +OR you can cheat and be cheap Go get a tub of Vaseline and rub it into the finish then buff off with a rag...... go ahead and try a spot on the transom. It will look great but not last more than the season." +"HI Guys, + +This problem started occuring intermittently three weeks ago and then this last weekend it was so bad that I turned the boat around and went back to the dock. Here is what is happening..... + + +I have a 2002 175 HP HDPI 2 stroke Yamaha. +At low RPM there are no issues. Once I go up to cruising RPM 2800 - 3200 or higher and the bow rises prior to going on plane the power to the motor momentarily dies, as soon as the bow drops again, it immediately returns to same RPM. If i can get through this and actually get on plane, once the boat hits a wake or wave and the bow rises, the same problem occurs with a complete loss of power momentarily until the boat is completely horizontal again. If you can imagine what this is like when there are three wakes in a row that the boat has to travel through, then you can imagine how ridiculous this looks and sounds with the boat revving up to 3000 RPM one second down to nothing the next and then back to 3000 again as it goes over the wake. + +Everything ran fantastic all summer until this started happening a few weeks ago and got progressively worse until I can no longer use it until it get fixed. + +Any advice is welcome. Has anyone heard or seen this before? + +Thanks.","When was the VST filter and the HP filter changed last? Yamaha will run up to RPM with dirty filters and fall on its face when under a heavy load IE...Rough water. + +Make sure the oil tank on the engine is full and unplug the harness on the reserve tank take it for a ride and see if the problem still occurs. + +FYI, cruising RPM for your engine is in the 4000rpm range.","When was the VST filter and the HP filter changed last? Yamaha will run up to RPM with dirty filters and fall on its face when under a heavy load IE...Rough water. + +Make sure the oil tank on the engine is full and unplug the harness on the reserve tank take it for a ride and see if the problem still occurs. + +FYI, cruising RPM for your engine is in the 4000rpm range.","Need to know more to help. Do you hear the trim motor quietly running or does no sound mean just dead silence? If the trim motor doesn't run, does the engine wind over on the key?" +"HI Guys, + +This problem started occuring intermittently three weeks ago and then this last weekend it was so bad that I turned the boat around and went back to the dock. Here is what is happening..... + + +I have a 2002 175 HP HDPI 2 stroke Yamaha. +At low RPM there are no issues. Once I go up to cruising RPM 2800 - 3200 or higher and the bow rises prior to going on plane the power to the motor momentarily dies, as soon as the bow drops again, it immediately returns to same RPM. If i can get through this and actually get on plane, once the boat hits a wake or wave and the bow rises, the same problem occurs with a complete loss of power momentarily until the boat is completely horizontal again. If you can imagine what this is like when there are three wakes in a row that the boat has to travel through, then you can imagine how ridiculous this looks and sounds with the boat revving up to 3000 RPM one second down to nothing the next and then back to 3000 again as it goes over the wake. + +Everything ran fantastic all summer until this started happening a few weeks ago and got progressively worse until I can no longer use it until it get fixed. + +Any advice is welcome. Has anyone heard or seen this before? + +Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + Classic symptoms of poor cable connections. Remove, clean and reattach the battery cables at both ends. Also, at a battery switch if the motor has one. While at the motor check any other red power feed wires that are there. Do the same for them. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. I will try it this weekend. It does have a battery switch too.","boscoe said: + + + + Classic symptoms of poor cable connections. Remove, clean and reattach the battery cables at both ends. Also, at a battery switch if the motor has one. While at the motor check any other red power feed wires that are there. Do the same for them. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks. I will try it this weekend. It does have a battery switch too.","Jerryjerry05 said: + + + + First! What we working on? + +And Yes the diaphragm if it's got a rip or hole it won't firm up when squeezin. + +Also IF??? the floats aren't set or there is something holding the needle valve open it won't firm. + +Is it running OK? Other than that? Do a compression test. +Some motors the pump operates on the compression from a certain cylinder. Again what we working on? +The squeezie could be bad? The diaphragm? The inline connectors? The hose could be delaminating from Ethanol? +The carbs high speed jet clogged? The linkage not advancing? + +Click to expand... + + +Working on a Yamaha 40hp motor is a 92 but clean as brand new one + +I replaced the fuel lines from tank to motor... disconnected from motor the squeeze ball gets firm first squeeze. + +Has had nothing but non ethanol gas run in it with periodic sea foam and stabil + +Just didn't want to start replacing parts at random + +other than this it runs like a dream. Fires up on 1st turn of the key every time and will idle as long as you let it run with no flaw at all" +"HI Guys, + +This problem started occuring intermittently three weeks ago and then this last weekend it was so bad that I turned the boat around and went back to the dock. Here is what is happening..... + + +I have a 2002 175 HP HDPI 2 stroke Yamaha. +At low RPM there are no issues. Once I go up to cruising RPM 2800 - 3200 or higher and the bow rises prior to going on plane the power to the motor momentarily dies, as soon as the bow drops again, it immediately returns to same RPM. If i can get through this and actually get on plane, once the boat hits a wake or wave and the bow rises, the same problem occurs with a complete loss of power momentarily until the boat is completely horizontal again. If you can imagine what this is like when there are three wakes in a row that the boat has to travel through, then you can imagine how ridiculous this looks and sounds with the boat revving up to 3000 RPM one second down to nothing the next and then back to 3000 again as it goes over the wake. + +Everything ran fantastic all summer until this started happening a few weeks ago and got progressively worse until I can no longer use it until it get fixed. + +Any advice is welcome. Has anyone heard or seen this before? + +Thanks.","I had an authorized dealer change out the filters during winterization last year. Oil tank is full. I will try unplugging the reserve this weekend along with cleaning all power cable / battery connections. + +Thanks for the help. I will let you know how it goes.","I had an authorized dealer change out the filters during winterization last year. Oil tank is full. I will try unplugging the reserve this weekend along with cleaning all power cable / battery connections. + +Thanks for the help. I will let you know how it goes.", +"Good morning,I'm building a new 34 ft prawn boat should be 7,000 lbs and at least 12,000 lbs. loaded would anyone know how my performance will be powering with 2-250HP Yamaha's vs a 330 HP Volvo I/O diesel.My comrades continue to power their commercial boats with Volvos and continually have issues I'm inclined to use outboards as long as they will give me performance the test is having sufficient thrust/torque to get up on a plane with loads.I see water taxis are believers of Volvo's but maybe they are considering fuel/hrs of use(diesel)considerations.Any experienced opinions are appreciated as this decision re power choice is very important in my competitive business. +Dan","Diesel I/O is going to be more efficient on fuel. Trouble is that at the 300hp+ rating the options for diesel I/O are very limited. Either the D6 Volvo, the V8 Yanmar on the Yanmar leg, or if your emission standards allow the 6LP Yanmar @ 315hp on a Merc leg. The Merc leg isn't the best option, so the V8 Yanmar on the still not really proven Yanmar leg or the Volvo 'Green Grenade' on the more proven Volvo leg. I don't consider the CMD diesel at 300hp+ to be a commercial option. +For outboards you quote the Yamahas, but personally I would look at the Honda 225's if you can. Set up properly they are very robust engines. Yamaha has not had the greatest design success with it's 4 strokes and have had possibly more issues than any of the other large manufacturers. They still enjoy a good reputation, but much of that comes from the fantastic 2 strokes they produced previously. There is no doubt that your fuel use will increase with the outboards, but they will provide plenty of power compared to the single I/O.","Diesel I/O is going to be more efficient on fuel. Trouble is that at the 300hp+ rating the options for diesel I/O are very limited. Either the D6 Volvo, the V8 Yanmar on the Yanmar leg, or if your emission standards allow the 6LP Yanmar @ 315hp on a Merc leg. The Merc leg isn't the best option, so the V8 Yanmar on the still not really proven Yanmar leg or the Volvo 'Green Grenade' on the more proven Volvo leg. I don't consider the CMD diesel at 300hp+ to be a commercial option. +For outboards you quote the Yamahas, but personally I would look at the Honda 225's if you can. Set up properly they are very robust engines. Yamaha has not had the greatest design success with it's 4 strokes and have had possibly more issues than any of the other large manufacturers. They still enjoy a good reputation, but much of that comes from the fantastic 2 strokes they produced previously. There is no doubt that your fuel use will increase with the outboards, but they will provide plenty of power compared to the single I/O.","Sorry for the late reply I was off line. + +Thanks for the info. Although I would like a Humminbird they are too pricey here so I am looking for a Garmin Now. I see a Garmin 526s combo with a transducer whichhas worldwide map and I htink I can link it into my motor and the Garmin 10 motor amnagement system so that looks like the go to me. + +Anyone got any thoughts? How does your set up go CHawk? + +Regards + +Chris" +"Good morning,I'm building a new 34 ft prawn boat should be 7,000 lbs and at least 12,000 lbs. loaded would anyone know how my performance will be powering with 2-250HP Yamaha's vs a 330 HP Volvo I/O diesel.My comrades continue to power their commercial boats with Volvos and continually have issues I'm inclined to use outboards as long as they will give me performance the test is having sufficient thrust/torque to get up on a plane with loads.I see water taxis are believers of Volvo's but maybe they are considering fuel/hrs of use(diesel)considerations.Any experienced opinions are appreciated as this decision re power choice is very important in my competitive business. +Dan","Quoting your comment""they will provide plenty of power compared to the single I/O"" this is where my confusion is, the D6 Volvo turns a much bigger prop(or duo drop) and has the added torque with diesel vs gas on the outboards.Aliboy are you sure I will have more torque/power/thrust with the 2 250 Outboards this is the crux of the matter will there be less stress on this power package pushing our heavy prawn boats.Your input is appreciated as I have to have my facts right as this will be an expensive build.","Quoting your comment""they will provide plenty of power compared to the single I/O"" this is where my confusion is, the D6 Volvo turns a much bigger prop(or duo drop) and has the added torque with diesel vs gas on the outboards.Aliboy are you sure I will have more torque/power/thrust with the 2 250 Outboards this is the crux of the matter will there be less stress on this power package pushing our heavy prawn boats.Your input is appreciated as I have to have my facts right as this will be an expensive build.","Confused. Title says will not crank. Body of message says that it will turn over but not crank. + +If the starter motor is turning the outboard motor then it is cranking. I suspect that you mean that it is cranking but not starting." +"Good morning,I'm building a new 34 ft prawn boat should be 7,000 lbs and at least 12,000 lbs. loaded would anyone know how my performance will be powering with 2-250HP Yamaha's vs a 330 HP Volvo I/O diesel.My comrades continue to power their commercial boats with Volvos and continually have issues I'm inclined to use outboards as long as they will give me performance the test is having sufficient thrust/torque to get up on a plane with loads.I see water taxis are believers of Volvo's but maybe they are considering fuel/hrs of use(diesel)considerations.Any experienced opinions are appreciated as this decision re power choice is very important in my competitive business. +Dan","The D6 370 makes 300hp @ 2400rpm and that is around the peak torque for that engine. Whilst they don't publish curves for most outboards it seems that a typical 4 stroke will make around 60% power in the 3000 - 3500rpm range. For a pair of 250's that is also 300hp, although with higher rpm's and less torque. The smaller props compensate for the lower torque. Both sets of engines give you similar hp at good cruising rpm's. If you go Honda or Suzuki you get better gear ratios than Yamaha and can swing larger props which would help you. The Yamaha however is a 4.2l engine vs the 3.6l Honda and Suzuki, so maybe slightly better on torque down low with the extra displacement. + +To compare probable cruise powers, lets say you cruise the D6 at 2900rpm and the outboards at 4000rpm. Both reasonable numbers for looking after your engine loads. The D6 will make around 350hp and the 4 strokes around 75% (maybe more) of max hp, so around 375hp+. So once you are up and going there won't be much in it for performance, with a slight edge for the outboards. If you go for outboards the biggest thing will be to not over-prop them. Prop them for good WOT rpm's when fully loaded. If you did over-prop to get extra speed, that is where the difference in torque might hurt you. Do have a good think about the outboard gear ratios though as the Yamaha will swing a smaller diameter prop than the Honda or Zuke and that may be important.","The D6 370 makes 300hp @ 2400rpm and that is around the peak torque for that engine. Whilst they don't publish curves for most outboards it seems that a typical 4 stroke will make around 60% power in the 3000 - 3500rpm range. For a pair of 250's that is also 300hp, although with higher rpm's and less torque. The smaller props compensate for the lower torque. Both sets of engines give you similar hp at good cruising rpm's. If you go Honda or Suzuki you get better gear ratios than Yamaha and can swing larger props which would help you. The Yamaha however is a 4.2l engine vs the 3.6l Honda and Suzuki, so maybe slightly better on torque down low with the extra displacement. + +To compare probable cruise powers, lets say you cruise the D6 at 2900rpm and the outboards at 4000rpm. Both reasonable numbers for looking after your engine loads. The D6 will make around 350hp and the 4 strokes around 75% (maybe more) of max hp, so around 375hp+. So once you are up and going there won't be much in it for performance, with a slight edge for the outboards. If you go for outboards the biggest thing will be to not over-prop them. Prop them for good WOT rpm's when fully loaded. If you did over-prop to get extra speed, that is where the difference in torque might hurt you. Do have a good think about the outboard gear ratios though as the Yamaha will swing a smaller diameter prop than the Honda or Zuke and that may be important.",Castle_Cape - very useful information. Thanks for posting that. +"Good morning,I'm building a new 34 ft prawn boat should be 7,000 lbs and at least 12,000 lbs. loaded would anyone know how my performance will be powering with 2-250HP Yamaha's vs a 330 HP Volvo I/O diesel.My comrades continue to power their commercial boats with Volvos and continually have issues I'm inclined to use outboards as long as they will give me performance the test is having sufficient thrust/torque to get up on a plane with loads.I see water taxis are believers of Volvo's but maybe they are considering fuel/hrs of use(diesel)considerations.Any experienced opinions are appreciated as this decision re power choice is very important in my competitive business. +Dan","Aliboy your comments are good stuff.I have paid a high price in the past for using too large propellers(2 blown blocks stupid me).Must use small propellers the top end speed not as important as being kind to motors when going to a plane under load.I've had discussions re gear ratios with Yamaha am inclined to stick with the 3.3L250 have a saving with mechanical controls yes but more importantly they have a gear ratio of 2:1 my Saltwater series had a ratio of 1.83:1 and the 4.2 has a ratio of 1.75:1 I think these figures are close if memory serves me right,with that said the Yamaha dealer felt the larger cylinders on the 4.2 would more than compensate for higher gear I don't really buy this completely these new engine designs have to prove themselves.Kind of like 2:1 with small propellers.We don't have many service outlets for Suzuki and Honda here in Nanaimo BC Yamaha is the motor of choice in this area with that said my comrade runs300 HP Mercurys on his charter boat and is quite happy(I may do some homework on these but am hesitant).On the boat weight issue I understand some Grady Whites weighing around 12,000 lbs are powered by twin 250's.My thoughts are do my aluminum build at 7,000lbs with a loaded weight of no more than 12,000lbs.If I couldn't keep within this weight I'd have to rethink my project.What are your thoughts re my weights.","Aliboy your comments are good stuff.I have paid a high price in the past for using too large propellers(2 blown blocks stupid me).Must use small propellers the top end speed not as important as being kind to motors when going to a plane under load.I've had discussions re gear ratios with Yamaha am inclined to stick with the 3.3L250 have a saving with mechanical controls yes but more importantly they have a gear ratio of 2:1 my Saltwater series had a ratio of 1.83:1 and the 4.2 has a ratio of 1.75:1 I think these figures are close if memory serves me right,with that said the Yamaha dealer felt the larger cylinders on the 4.2 would more than compensate for higher gear I don't really buy this completely these new engine designs have to prove themselves.Kind of like 2:1 with small propellers.We don't have many service outlets for Suzuki and Honda here in Nanaimo BC Yamaha is the motor of choice in this area with that said my comrade runs300 HP Mercurys on his charter boat and is quite happy(I may do some homework on these but am hesitant).On the boat weight issue I understand some Grady Whites weighing around 12,000 lbs are powered by twin 250's.My thoughts are do my aluminum build at 7,000lbs with a loaded weight of no more than 12,000lbs.If I couldn't keep within this weight I'd have to rethink my project.What are your thoughts re my weights.","Hi Boscoe, I don't have a serial number plate, all I have off the engine freeze plug is 1018888 and the carb sticker says its for an F2.5A ""Family"" It's pre 2016 as it has the older style water pump." +"Good morning,I'm building a new 34 ft prawn boat should be 7,000 lbs and at least 12,000 lbs. loaded would anyone know how my performance will be powering with 2-250HP Yamaha's vs a 330 HP Volvo I/O diesel.My comrades continue to power their commercial boats with Volvos and continually have issues I'm inclined to use outboards as long as they will give me performance the test is having sufficient thrust/torque to get up on a plane with loads.I see water taxis are believers of Volvo's but maybe they are considering fuel/hrs of use(diesel)considerations.Any experienced opinions are appreciated as this decision re power choice is very important in my competitive business. +Dan","Your memory is correct I think re the ratios. 7000lbs for 34ft is probably doable, but you will need to be careful how much extra gear you add. I guess 6mm or 7mm plate for the bottom with a good stringer system and 5mm (sorry but I think in metric) on the sides with reinforcing in the work areas.","Your memory is correct I think re the ratios. 7000lbs for 34ft is probably doable, but you will need to be careful how much extra gear you add. I guess 6mm or 7mm plate for the bottom with a good stringer system and 5mm (sorry but I think in metric) on the sides with reinforcing in the work areas.","tileslayer said: + + + + Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle + +Click to expand... + + +Your words above in bold are a good indication of where the most likely problem is located...the fuel pump. Depending on how you store your outboard, the only time when priming the engine is needed is during a cold start (1st start of the day). With a healthy fuel pump, no matter how many times you start and cut engine you should not need to re-prime engine after initial cold start. + +See schematic below of your fuel pump, located center right in picture. Dismount the pump and check for leaks. If you've got a friend nearby, have them squeeze primer bulb as you look at fuel pump for leaks. If it leaks, replace it with a new fuel pump. + +If no visible leak is seen, re-mount fuel pump. Take the boat back out on the water and run it. When it starts running rough, feel the primer bulb with your hand. You should feel flow running through the bulb as the engine is running. If the bulb is collapsing, that's indication #1 of a bad fuel pump. + +If the bulb did collapse, now you'll get the engine started and run it again. But this time keep your hand on the primer bulb and don't let it collapse. As the engine continues to run, you prime the bulb keeping it tight (don't over prime, just till bulb is tight). Keep repeating this for a few minutes as the engine runs in the mid rpms. If the engine continues to run, that's indication #2 of a bad fuel pump. And you don't need a #3 to complete this troubleshooting. It's a bad fuel pump. Replace. Luckily they're not expensive." +"I have a 2000 model F100. It starts great, runs great up to about 3500 RPM...smooth, quiet and steady. I can run it all day at that RPM. If I give it more throttle it will skip and miss and sputter and bog down. I can back off the throttle and give it about 15 seconds, throttle it back up and then it will run great up to 3500 RPM. + +I have had the carbs removed and ""boiled out,"" new plugs, new fuel filter, and I have replaced all of the gas so that it is fresh. Is there an automatic timing advance in this motor that could be bad?","Louegee, +Still with the forum ? I also have a f100 2000. I have a lot of questions for you.","Louegee, +Still with the forum ? I also have a f100 2000. I have a lot of questions for you.","Perhaps the start of -----"" you must throw it away and buy a new one "" mind set.-----I am going over a 1963 18 HP Johnson right now.-----Lots of used parts are available for those if you know where to look." +Oil not refilling primary tank on engine. Checked voltage to pump at auxiliary tank nothing present. Had power temporarily at then lost it check connections and connectors in engine compartment. Emergency switch doesn't have power to it as well. Does any one have an idea as to where the problem could lye.,"If you don't have power to the pump, there is the problem. It is just a matter of finding out why no power. Start with the connector in the engine pan that provides power to the pump. Does the yellow wire have 12 volts on it when the key is in the ON position? + +If so, then the problem is outside the motor, in the harness that runs to the oil pump. + +If not, trace the yellow wire in the engine harness back to its source of key on power. + +The emergency switch never has power to it. Ever.","If you don't have power to the pump, there is the problem. It is just a matter of finding out why no power. Start with the connector in the engine pan that provides power to the pump. Does the yellow wire have 12 volts on it when the key is in the ON position? + +If so, then the problem is outside the motor, in the harness that runs to the oil pump. + +If not, trace the yellow wire in the engine harness back to its source of key on power. + +The emergency switch never has power to it. Ever.","Thanks, guys. I will also make a post at yamahaoutboards. +And look for filings in the gear oil." +"You guys have been a huge help to me in the past on a little 15 hp Mariner. Was able to do the work that some of you suggested myself, and haven't had a problem since. This one will be out of my league. + +My son came about a 23' fiberglass boat with this Yamaha 250 on it. Owner had just gotten a new rig and wanted this gone. Told son that he +had bought the motor new, had it installed on boat, and had had it serviced by dealer once a year. Sitting on galv. trailer. Used in salt water. +Let a Yamaha dealer check compression, said perfect. Motor runs very well for a little while, then starts to get hot, seems to go into limp mode if it has such a thing. Replaced water pump impeller, have not run yet, but worried that old one did not look bad. I'm thinking it's not getting enough water, maybe corrosion. + +Mfg. date 07/2002, other info is: Z250 turb, 60V U 10002 HPDI + +Any thoughts? Thanks much. We are on the GA coast. + +Steve","Forgot to add, engine runs perfect for several laps around 250 acre lake, then acts like stated in above post. Then, you can switch if off, wait about a minute, and she runs fine again for same amount of time, the acts like it's getting hot again. +Also, mfg. date is 07/2002, but Yamaha code calls it a 2003. + +Thanks in advance for any comments. + +Steve","Forgot to add, engine runs perfect for several laps around 250 acre lake, then acts like stated in above post. Then, you can switch if off, wait about a minute, and she runs fine again for same amount of time, the acts like it's getting hot again. +Also, mfg. date is 07/2002, but Yamaha code calls it a 2003. + +Thanks in advance for any comments. + +Steve","racerone said: + + + + Look this motor over very carefully for corrosion.----Knows issues with corrosion on lower mounts even in fresh water.------------Have the owner send some pictures perhaps.-----Might save you a trip.-----Aluminum on them may not be of a high quality. + +Click to expand... + + +Pictures seem difficult to get- none were posted to the original ad. In the pictures I did get, the motor seemed appropriate for the motors history as I know it." +"You guys have been a huge help to me in the past on a little 15 hp Mariner. Was able to do the work that some of you suggested myself, and haven't had a problem since. This one will be out of my league. + +My son came about a 23' fiberglass boat with this Yamaha 250 on it. Owner had just gotten a new rig and wanted this gone. Told son that he +had bought the motor new, had it installed on boat, and had had it serviced by dealer once a year. Sitting on galv. trailer. Used in salt water. +Let a Yamaha dealer check compression, said perfect. Motor runs very well for a little while, then starts to get hot, seems to go into limp mode if it has such a thing. Replaced water pump impeller, have not run yet, but worried that old one did not look bad. I'm thinking it's not getting enough water, maybe corrosion. + +Mfg. date 07/2002, other info is: Z250 turb, 60V U 10002 HPDI + +Any thoughts? Thanks much. We are on the GA coast. + +Steve","Start with an inspection of the pressure relief valve and the thermostats. + +Put a pressure gauge on garden hose inlet port to monitor water pressure while the motor is running. Should be a minimum of 11 psi at WOT. + +The term limp mode is not a Yamaha term. The motor does have self protection in the event of low oil quantity or over temperature in which case the RPM will be limited to about 2500 RPM. Having a Yamaha tachometer installed will tell the operator the reason for the warning horn sounding. What type of tachometer is installed? If a Yam, what is it doing with the alarm activates?","Start with an inspection of the pressure relief valve and the thermostats. + +Put a pressure gauge on garden hose inlet port to monitor water pressure while the motor is running. Should be a minimum of 11 psi at WOT. + +The term limp mode is not a Yamaha term. The motor does have self protection in the event of low oil quantity or over temperature in which case the RPM will be limited to about 2500 RPM. Having a Yamaha tachometer installed will tell the operator the reason for the warning horn sounding. What type of tachometer is installed? If a Yam, what is it doing with the alarm activates?","High Pressure pump is 44 psi then drops down to 33 psi and holds good until it falls on its self.Fuel tank is venting, rechecked vent line and have blown out the vent line.The primer bulb is not getting sucked flat, its not rock hard nor is it super soft. going to pull the VST again." +"You guys have been a huge help to me in the past on a little 15 hp Mariner. Was able to do the work that some of you suggested myself, and haven't had a problem since. This one will be out of my league. + +My son came about a 23' fiberglass boat with this Yamaha 250 on it. Owner had just gotten a new rig and wanted this gone. Told son that he +had bought the motor new, had it installed on boat, and had had it serviced by dealer once a year. Sitting on galv. trailer. Used in salt water. +Let a Yamaha dealer check compression, said perfect. Motor runs very well for a little while, then starts to get hot, seems to go into limp mode if it has such a thing. Replaced water pump impeller, have not run yet, but worried that old one did not look bad. I'm thinking it's not getting enough water, maybe corrosion. + +Mfg. date 07/2002, other info is: Z250 turb, 60V U 10002 HPDI + +Any thoughts? Thanks much. We are on the GA coast. + +Steve","Thanks very much Boscoe, I'll check into these.","Thanks very much Boscoe, I'll check into these.","SkeeterDog said: + + + + Hey guys! I've got a Yamaha 175 that has low pressure on one cylinder after the PO ran it after the oil pump died. Now I'm pretty good with tools, but I haven't the faintest idea how to fiddle with outboards. How would I go about fixing this problem? I read ""Pull the heads"" in old posts but I don't know what I'm looking for. Any tips to get started? What all will I need to do to get her wet again? Thanks! + +Click to expand... + + +Usually catastrophic events occur when any gasoline engine is run without oil. Oil is the engine's life blood. It will die without it. Likely it is the reason for your low compression reading. Does the motor run at all? There might be other related problems that have yet to announce themselves. + +It is entirely likely that you're looking at a major engine re-build. If you decide to take on this huge task, I would agree with racerone- get a repair manual, study it and follow it." +"You guys have been a huge help to me in the past on a little 15 hp Mariner. Was able to do the work that some of you suggested myself, and haven't had a problem since. This one will be out of my league. + +My son came about a 23' fiberglass boat with this Yamaha 250 on it. Owner had just gotten a new rig and wanted this gone. Told son that he +had bought the motor new, had it installed on boat, and had had it serviced by dealer once a year. Sitting on galv. trailer. Used in salt water. +Let a Yamaha dealer check compression, said perfect. Motor runs very well for a little while, then starts to get hot, seems to go into limp mode if it has such a thing. Replaced water pump impeller, have not run yet, but worried that old one did not look bad. I'm thinking it's not getting enough water, maybe corrosion. + +Mfg. date 07/2002, other info is: Z250 turb, 60V U 10002 HPDI + +Any thoughts? Thanks much. We are on the GA coast. + +Steve",If it hasn't been done yet I would change the high pressure fuel filter and also the vst screen.,If it hasn't been done yet I would change the high pressure fuel filter and also the vst screen.,The brass fitting keeps the ball pushed at all times if I squeeze the primer ball fuel will flow through even if discontinued from the engine +"You guys have been a huge help to me in the past on a little 15 hp Mariner. Was able to do the work that some of you suggested myself, and haven't had a problem since. This one will be out of my league. + +My son came about a 23' fiberglass boat with this Yamaha 250 on it. Owner had just gotten a new rig and wanted this gone. Told son that he +had bought the motor new, had it installed on boat, and had had it serviced by dealer once a year. Sitting on galv. trailer. Used in salt water. +Let a Yamaha dealer check compression, said perfect. Motor runs very well for a little while, then starts to get hot, seems to go into limp mode if it has such a thing. Replaced water pump impeller, have not run yet, but worried that old one did not look bad. I'm thinking it's not getting enough water, maybe corrosion. + +Mfg. date 07/2002, other info is: Z250 turb, 60V U 10002 HPDI + +Any thoughts? Thanks much. We are on the GA coast. + +Steve","Thanks for the comments, can't wait to have time to check into these suggestions.","Thanks for the comments, can't wait to have time to check into these suggestions.","rejesterd said: + + + + I would still look at the impeller and take some pictures for us. The impeller and it's base plate should look almost pristine.. no deformation in the fins and no gouges on the plate. To me, that's the most likely issue. Next time you get the warning, make sure the pee stream is actually hot. If it's cool or only slightly warm to the touch, it's probably not overheating and you have a bad thermoswitch or CDI unit. + +Click to expand... + +The thing that makes me think that the engine IS getting hot is that when the buzzer went off, the engine started running poorly. (missing)." +"You guys have been a huge help to me in the past on a little 15 hp Mariner. Was able to do the work that some of you suggested myself, and haven't had a problem since. This one will be out of my league. + +My son came about a 23' fiberglass boat with this Yamaha 250 on it. Owner had just gotten a new rig and wanted this gone. Told son that he +had bought the motor new, had it installed on boat, and had had it serviced by dealer once a year. Sitting on galv. trailer. Used in salt water. +Let a Yamaha dealer check compression, said perfect. Motor runs very well for a little while, then starts to get hot, seems to go into limp mode if it has such a thing. Replaced water pump impeller, have not run yet, but worried that old one did not look bad. I'm thinking it's not getting enough water, maybe corrosion. + +Mfg. date 07/2002, other info is: Z250 turb, 60V U 10002 HPDI + +Any thoughts? Thanks much. We are on the GA coast. + +Steve","I think it could be the dirt in the Vapor Seperator Tank clogging the screen PBRMAN mentions. Not familiar with that specific engine but often they get crud from ethanol gas in the VST tank that houses the fuel pump. As the fuel is flowing and and being drawn into the fuel pump the engine is vibrating and stirring up all that crud that gets clogged in the VST screen that feeds the fuel pump. Shut it down, fuel flow stops, crud falls back the bottom of the VST tank. Fire it up again and the crud starts clogging the filter again until you get fuel starvation again. It will repeat itself until you clean the screen and any crud sitting on the bottom of the VST tank that gets vibrated and up from the bottom and sucked into the filter screen again.","I think it could be the dirt in the Vapor Seperator Tank clogging the screen PBRMAN mentions. Not familiar with that specific engine but often they get crud from ethanol gas in the VST tank that houses the fuel pump. As the fuel is flowing and and being drawn into the fuel pump the engine is vibrating and stirring up all that crud that gets clogged in the VST screen that feeds the fuel pump. Shut it down, fuel flow stops, crud falls back the bottom of the VST tank. Fire it up again and the crud starts clogging the filter again until you get fuel starvation again. It will repeat itself until you clean the screen and any crud sitting on the bottom of the VST tank that gets vibrated and up from the bottom and sucked into the filter screen again.",Not worth it IMO. Get another. +"You guys have been a huge help to me in the past on a little 15 hp Mariner. Was able to do the work that some of you suggested myself, and haven't had a problem since. This one will be out of my league. + +My son came about a 23' fiberglass boat with this Yamaha 250 on it. Owner had just gotten a new rig and wanted this gone. Told son that he +had bought the motor new, had it installed on boat, and had had it serviced by dealer once a year. Sitting on galv. trailer. Used in salt water. +Let a Yamaha dealer check compression, said perfect. Motor runs very well for a little while, then starts to get hot, seems to go into limp mode if it has such a thing. Replaced water pump impeller, have not run yet, but worried that old one did not look bad. I'm thinking it's not getting enough water, maybe corrosion. + +Mfg. date 07/2002, other info is: Z250 turb, 60V U 10002 HPDI + +Any thoughts? Thanks much. We are on the GA coast. + +Steve",Thanks very much deepsea21,Thanks very much deepsea21,"chawk_man said: + + + + Suggest that you post this on the Merc outboard forum on this site. ick on Forum Home at the top left of his page, and click on Mercury Outboards. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks, but I did that already and got no response so far, under the Mercury and Mariner heading. But appreciate the response." +"You guys have been a huge help to me in the past on a little 15 hp Mariner. Was able to do the work that some of you suggested myself, and haven't had a problem since. This one will be out of my league. + +My son came about a 23' fiberglass boat with this Yamaha 250 on it. Owner had just gotten a new rig and wanted this gone. Told son that he +had bought the motor new, had it installed on boat, and had had it serviced by dealer once a year. Sitting on galv. trailer. Used in salt water. +Let a Yamaha dealer check compression, said perfect. Motor runs very well for a little while, then starts to get hot, seems to go into limp mode if it has such a thing. Replaced water pump impeller, have not run yet, but worried that old one did not look bad. I'm thinking it's not getting enough water, maybe corrosion. + +Mfg. date 07/2002, other info is: Z250 turb, 60V U 10002 HPDI + +Any thoughts? Thanks much. We are on the GA coast. + +Steve","Want to thank everyone for the help, much appreciated! My son sold the rig, win-win for both parties, appears that problem was as suggested, VST filter. Everyone happy. Thanks, Steve","Want to thank everyone for the help, much appreciated! My son sold the rig, win-win for both parties, appears that problem was as suggested, VST filter. Everyone happy. Thanks, Steve",The electric primer is only used on electric start / remote controlled 15 HP models I believe. +"Hello,I have twin 225's (2005) +Occasionally getting a steady alarm and reduction of rpm","Under what operating conditions? + +Is it temperature related or oil pressure related? What is your Yamaha tachometer telling you?","Under what operating conditions? + +Is it temperature related or oil pressure related? What is your Yamaha tachometer telling you?","I don't have a great amount of experience doing this. However, I had one project that turned out very well. + +I used a product called Sea Cast: http://www.transomrepair.net/index.php?cPath=1 + +It's a mixture of resin and hardener that you combine with recycled chopped glass and you pour it in place of a wood core. What you would have to do is glass your exterior skin back in place and then make a new skin for the inside. On my boat the inside skin was shot so I got a 4X8 piece of 1/4"" masonite and cut that as a form to match the shape of the skin. Then I covered the masonite with wax paper and laid up a layer of woven cloth and another layer of chop stranded cloth. + +To install the inside skin you can rip pieces of 2X2 to the correct thickness, set them against the outer skin sticking out the top of the cap, then push the inner skin against those, and glass the inside to the sides, bottom and top deck. Once the resin sets up you can just pull the spacers out of the top. Be sure to let the resin on the outer and inner skins fully cure before you pour the transom. + +Filling the transom was pretty easy. I made a 24"" wide funnel that fit into the open cap space between the skins. To mix the resin I got a large drill mounted paint mixer and used a 1/2"" drill. Once the SeaCast was uniformly mixed I poured it in to the top through the funnel and used rubber dead blow hammers to pound the transom while the resin was fluid to drive out any air pockets/bubbles. The transom will get REALLY HOT as the hardener and resin react with each other. No worries, just be aware it will be hot to the touch. After it all cures you can glass in to cover the SeaCAst then re-drill holes for your bilge, splashwell drain, and tie down hooks. + +I can't really tell you how much easier or cost effective this was compared to rebuilding with marine grade plywood because this was my one and only time doing this. I do know that marine grade plywood was very expensive to get in my area so I decided if I had to special order supplies I might as well give it a whirl with the composite stuff. + +I sold that boat about 7 years after doing that work. The transom was rock solid the day I sold it and most likely will outlast all the other components in the boat. That thing was so crazy strong you could probably use the boat as a barge tug. There may be more experienced folks to chime in about using wood cores, but my experience with SeaCast was excellent and if I ever had to rebuild another transom I'll use the stuff again. + +KJ" +"Hello,I have twin 225's (2005) +Occasionally getting a steady alarm and reduction of rpm",Has the engine been checked for the exhaust corrosion issue?,Has the engine been checked for the exhaust corrosion issue?,"heres the pics of the extended hitch I had done for 75.00 from a welding shop down the street.I believe that did a great job,I will put on my safety chains back on and extend the wiring and should be ready for my 1,000 mile journey I think its just right now(I hope LOL)" +"What do you folks think i should do? + +I bought an old 22ft cabin cruiser and am doing it all out from the shell. I am very happy with this as it is just how i want it, or should i say 'we' as this is something my long-term girlfriend is enthusiastically involved with, too. We go caravan touring and now want to do the same but on the waterways. + +I took the outboard, Yam 9.9 1985, electric start and with remote, to the marine engineers for them to have a look at, as I bought it not knowing if it worked (the previous owner passed away). + +Well, the engineer had an investigation of it and a asked me to call in. He said he'd turned it over, but couldn't run it because it needed a lowercase bracket and new shafts that run down through the outboard as they were twisted due to this bracket having broken. All-in-all, he says he can do the work and fit the parts and it would cost me about £600 on top of his time to investigate it but the price could increase if more was found to be needed, and with all this needed until the engine could be tried in the tank there is no guarantee that it will work at all or how long it will work with reliability; the water-cooling system might have a blockage in it, maybe, or any other thing that might mean it will not last or be trouble-free even if it runs. + +His gut reaction was to suggest i just get a brand new one, about £2.5k. + +It is a bit of a jump up from what i was expecting to have to spend to have a running and serviced motor, but I can see the sense in his words IF such a brand new motor would give good and long service and be reliable and incur no more expectant cost. So would such a new engine last me ten or more years without any trouble, could i expect that if i got a new one? + +Are there any other reasons/ideas you might have that i haven't thought of (and I am a total beginner with boating) for what you suggest I should do. + + + +Also, I think we will progress from canals onto rivers at some point, so if I buy a replacement should I get a bigger engine to cope with rivers, and what size do you think i should get, then I will not need to change the engine as our pleasure cruising progresses. + +Cheers.",the 9.9 for that boat is just a kicker motor...thats a motor to get you in when the big motor breaks down..it will move the boat real slow and will take you forever to get anywhere....you will need a larger motor..quite a bit larger...actual size depends on the weight and design of the boat...talk to your 'engineer' and get his recommendation..get ready to spend more than 2.5k...,the 9.9 for that boat is just a kicker motor...thats a motor to get you in when the big motor breaks down..it will move the boat real slow and will take you forever to get anywhere....you will need a larger motor..quite a bit larger...actual size depends on the weight and design of the boat...talk to your 'engineer' and get his recommendation..get ready to spend more than 2.5k...,"Hi All, +Again thanks for all the advice …. I was able to find a fairly new company that sold a DIY transom repair Kit. They walked through the whole repair via Skype and they sold me all the materials that I require to complete my transom repair . + + What a really awesome product with a company to back it. They were able to ship my repair kit overnight due to the no hazmat restrictions, I mean they sent me everything even fiberglass. The only item they weren't able to ship me overnight was the resin witch I picked up a gallon of 3M at home depot with hardener. We gutted the transom on Saturday applied the kit the same day . + + Re fiber glassed the cap on the back on ,made filler with the powdery stuff they provided and picked and only had to pick up a qt of Awl Craft 2000 at West marine . I have to tell ya with their Skype system and with a knowledgeable fiberglass engineer right there It turned out pretty good , I mean a couple of runs in the paint which my motors covered anyway other than that the job looks pretty damn good and the repair was right around 1000 my mechcanic swapped them for free for swap of the 2 blown 200s that were on the boat when we started. + +Here are some of the pic from my DIY transom repair on my 9925 Grady White... Took her out and ran her hard everything looks good so far. You guys really need to check out this product ,I am getting another smaller kit to repair a soft spot in my deck. + +I also told them about this awesome forum and i think they are going to Join and offer transom advice.. I have to say they really helped me I couldn't and wouldn't of done this repair without them.. And i have to say It was really quite interested and gratifying to be able to take part in the repair of my own boat.. Plus it saved me a bundle ... + + + + + + +Well anyway thank you all for everything ,,next pics are gonna be some fish that I land,, Heres the website for anyone that is interested. +www.transomrepairkit.com. + +Thanks ,Bill" +"Hi there, +I have Yamaha 40HP 2 stroke outboard and have two questions about it: +first how to determine what year of production is engine? +It says on stamp...40 HEO + +second, my temp gauge doesn't work...it's brand new unit and I think I connected wires properly but it doesn't move the temp needle +any ideas or pics what to connect? + +thanks","The complete engine ID is needed. It will begin with the number 6. One the side of the motor, on the decal, right below the model identity. + +A temperature gauge needs 12 volt positive, a ground, and a reference signal from a sender. The sender itself also needs to be grounded. What type of gauge is it? Does the needle move at all when the key switch is turned on or off?","The complete engine ID is needed. It will begin with the number 6. One the side of the motor, on the decal, right below the model identity. + +A temperature gauge needs 12 volt positive, a ground, and a reference signal from a sender. The sender itself also needs to be grounded. What type of gauge is it? Does the needle move at all when the key switch is turned on or off?","Not sure what types of tips and tricks you are after, but here is a vid I did on changing the impeller on my larger Yamaha: https://youtu.be/IqNk4P94wOs + +Let me know if there is anything specific you are having trouble with, +Stuart" +"hi I have found a s/hand 1997 90hp Yamaha for sale $3000(aus) +comes with gauges, power tilt/trim, oil injected and has 340 hours on the clock, and 120psi on all 3 cylinders. +i was wondering if this sounds like a good choice/good price and also if there are things I can look for when I go to check it out. +i am assured I can hear it running so I wanted to know if there's a few tests I can perform to garuantee it's seaworthy. +any response will be welcomed thank you","Is the motor on a boat so you can check it out at full throttle in the water? If not, it is hard to tell with it on a stand or hanging on the stern of a boat out of the water how it will perform in the water when under a load.","Is the motor on a boat so you can check it out at full throttle in the water? If not, it is hard to tell with it on a stand or hanging on the stern of a boat out of the water how it will perform in the water when under a load.","Yes, but I thought it drained in there by accident just like oil drains into 4 stroke cylinders when not sat on the proper side." +"hi I have found a s/hand 1997 90hp Yamaha for sale $3000(aus) +comes with gauges, power tilt/trim, oil injected and has 340 hours on the clock, and 120psi on all 3 cylinders. +i was wondering if this sounds like a good choice/good price and also if there are things I can look for when I go to check it out. +i am assured I can hear it running so I wanted to know if there's a few tests I can perform to garuantee it's seaworthy. +any response will be welcomed thank you","anthony13 said: + + + + hi I have found a s/hand 1997 90hp Yamaha for sale $3000(aus) +comes with gauges, power tilt/trim, oil injected and has 340 hours on the clock, and 120psi on all 3 cylinders. +i was wondering if this sounds like a good choice/good price and also if there are things I can look for when I go to check it out. +i am assured I can hear it running so I wanted to know if there's a few tests I can perform to garuantee it's seaworthy. +any response will be welcomed thank you + +Click to expand... + + +I agree, boat should be run under load. +You should also pull the drain plug from the lower gearcase. Note the color of the oil. If it looks milky you have a seal problem which has allowed water to get into the gearcase. Also, note any metal filings on the drain plug. + +The 90 HP Yamaha has been around for quite awhile and has preformed well.","anthony13 said: + + + + hi I have found a s/hand 1997 90hp Yamaha for sale $3000(aus) +comes with gauges, power tilt/trim, oil injected and has 340 hours on the clock, and 120psi on all 3 cylinders. +i was wondering if this sounds like a good choice/good price and also if there are things I can look for when I go to check it out. +i am assured I can hear it running so I wanted to know if there's a few tests I can perform to garuantee it's seaworthy. +any response will be welcomed thank you + +Click to expand... + + +I agree, boat should be run under load. +You should also pull the drain plug from the lower gearcase. Note the color of the oil. If it looks milky you have a seal problem which has allowed water to get into the gearcase. Also, note any metal filings on the drain plug. + +The 90 HP Yamaha has been around for quite awhile and has preformed well.",Look in manual to see if lower cowl can be removed +"Hello, I just rebuilt my 225 EFI VMax and tried to start it. Seems to be no spark or fuel entering the cylinders. The wiring seems to be fine but I may have something wrong. I am suspect of something not set properly. I also have a constant alarm and the oil light is on on my control panel but the oil reservoir on the motor is full and the main reservoir has oil. It is low but it does have oil. I have pulled the spark plugs #1 and #2 and they both do not seem to be wet and do not see spark. I am just hoping that there is someone on here who has been across this before and could lend a hand. Thanks!!","If the kill switch circuit is activated then when the motor is cranked the horn should sound. Spark is terminated. Possibly fuel delivery also. + +There can be several oil lights on a Yamaha tachometer. Red, yellow and green. Exactly what is it that you are seeing?","If the kill switch circuit is activated then when the motor is cranked the horn should sound. Spark is terminated. Possibly fuel delivery also. + +There can be several oil lights on a Yamaha tachometer. Red, yellow and green. Exactly what is it that you are seeing?",I checked pretty sure +"Hello, I just rebuilt my 225 EFI VMax and tried to start it. Seems to be no spark or fuel entering the cylinders. The wiring seems to be fine but I may have something wrong. I am suspect of something not set properly. I also have a constant alarm and the oil light is on on my control panel but the oil reservoir on the motor is full and the main reservoir has oil. It is low but it does have oil. I have pulled the spark plugs #1 and #2 and they both do not seem to be wet and do not see spark. I am just hoping that there is someone on here who has been across this before and could lend a hand. Thanks!!",I am seeing the oil light on my shift panel. This is a Triton Bass Boat if that helps.,I am seeing the oil light on my shift panel. This is a Triton Bass Boat if that helps.,"take a look on the underside of the dash and see if there are any markings on the socket....also see if it goes to a 12VDC supply.... + +it's probably easier to change the outlet (socket) to match whatever you want to plug into it.... + +If they are still available, you could ask the previous owner what it was installed for." +"I am unable to get over 3500 RPM while running, although in neutral I can get over 6000. I have narrowed the problem down to intermittent output on all cylinders and at least 1 cylinder dead. I have replaced coils, caps and leads but the problem still persists. The engine runs fine to 3200rpm but then will not gain anymore power. Not to sure where to look next",Do a compression check.,Do a compression check.,"Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Nope. Pull all the injectors and have them tested and then cleaned. They need to be serviced by a fuel injector cleaning service. + +This company has a fast turn around. + + +http://www.fuelinjectorman.com/ + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks again Chris. +I'll pull them and send them tomorrow. they are located 100 miles south of Nokomis but I'll mail them .Going to have to put fishing on back burner for a week or so just when the large grouper are turning hot off shore. +Thanks aging; + +Bob" +"Good morning I've been running a 250 Saltwater Series on a commercial prawn boat.Through trial and error(blown blocks) I've got it propped right and don't want to change the size but wish to repower with a new 3.3L250 or a 4.2L 250 - the 250 Saltwater series had a gear ratio of1.81:1 the 3.3L 250 has a ratio of 2:1 and the 4.2L has a ratio of 1.75:1.With these ratios in mind I'm inclined to repower with the V6 3.3L I like the lower gear ratio as it should help with less stress on the motor with heavy loads which is critical.The 2500-3500 RPM range was where the blocks blew with heavy loads.With that said the dealers are very rock and roll on promoting the 4.2 yes they may have more torque due to the bigger cylinders but we have this reduction issue and why pay more(instrument cost $2,500)I'm skeptical as to how much more torque they have and they are lighter.I'm confused, which would be the best most dependable motor for my heavy load application and I'm not comfortable that the dealers are addressing my concerns.Maybe someone can give me their objective opinion.Thanks",3.3 liter with mechanical controls.,3.3 liter with mechanical controls.,"Re: 90 hp Yamaha power trim motor + +Yamaha 90 power trim motor." +"Good morning I've been running a 250 Saltwater Series on a commercial prawn boat.Through trial and error(blown blocks) I've got it propped right and don't want to change the size but wish to repower with a new 3.3L250 or a 4.2L 250 - the 250 Saltwater series had a gear ratio of1.81:1 the 3.3L 250 has a ratio of 2:1 and the 4.2L has a ratio of 1.75:1.With these ratios in mind I'm inclined to repower with the V6 3.3L I like the lower gear ratio as it should help with less stress on the motor with heavy loads which is critical.The 2500-3500 RPM range was where the blocks blew with heavy loads.With that said the dealers are very rock and roll on promoting the 4.2 yes they may have more torque due to the bigger cylinders but we have this reduction issue and why pay more(instrument cost $2,500)I'm skeptical as to how much more torque they have and they are lighter.I'm confused, which would be the best most dependable motor for my heavy load application and I'm not comfortable that the dealers are addressing my concerns.Maybe someone can give me their objective opinion.Thanks",Thanks for opinion I'm inclined to go this way but was shot down in flames by a dealer who promoted the 4.2L250 over the 3.3L but he didn't give specifics of how much more torque is offered in the 4.2 (I got real tired of blowing up blocks on my Saltwater Series from overloading and over propped we've solved these issues).I don't want to be and can ill afford to make an error in my new purchase.Thanks,Thanks for opinion I'm inclined to go this way but was shot down in flames by a dealer who promoted the 4.2L250 over the 3.3L but he didn't give specifics of how much more torque is offered in the 4.2 (I got real tired of blowing up blocks on my Saltwater Series from overloading and over propped we've solved these issues).I don't want to be and can ill afford to make an error in my new purchase.Thanks,"If it was me I’d be working on both at the same time. Get board of sanding, work on the engine, waiting on parts work on the boat. The Hull Truth is as resource that will offer suggestions of what your getting into and how to overcome obstacles that you will no doubt come across. I use The Hull Truth as an example of a resource that might help, there is likely many more sources of information on the internet, heck there could even be a forum or a Facebook page that is focused on restoring old Marquis boats. It’s your project and I’m sure your going to learn lots. I’d suggest take some pictures and post everything you know about your partially disassembled engine.(I’d start a new thread) It’s a starting point." +"I am a Norwegian living in Trondheim, where it is impossible to acquire accessories for old outboard engines, and I am therefore kindly asking help from anyone who would be able to and want to accommodate my request + + + The trim/tilt harness of my 1981 85hp Yamaha is broken, except for the wiring from the (remote) switch and the trim motor. + To me the cabling accessory seems like an Evinrude/Johnson type from the same period (see attached photos), with the following wires connected to the relay bracket: + + + +A three-wire input from the (remote) switch – UP (blue)/DWN (green) and 12V (red +12V (red ) from the battery, and GND (black) +along with the two outputs for the trim motor: + + + +· UP (blue) and DWN (green) + +What I need is the cabling harness connected to the relay bracket, along with the bracket and relays. + + +If anyone has access to such a harness/accessory and would want to help me out, I would gladly pay up-front for the pertinent equipment and transportation to Trondheim, Norway – along with any reasonable remuneration",Post a picture of the exact part you are looking for.,Post a picture of the exact part you are looking for.,"You were right, had the injectors cleaned and it runs like new. + + +Thanks, +Butch" +"I am a Norwegian living in Trondheim, where it is impossible to acquire accessories for old outboard engines, and I am therefore kindly asking help from anyone who would be able to and want to accommodate my request + + + The trim/tilt harness of my 1981 85hp Yamaha is broken, except for the wiring from the (remote) switch and the trim motor. + To me the cabling accessory seems like an Evinrude/Johnson type from the same period (see attached photos), with the following wires connected to the relay bracket: + + + +A three-wire input from the (remote) switch – UP (blue)/DWN (green) and 12V (red +12V (red ) from the battery, and GND (black) +along with the two outputs for the trim motor: + + + +· UP (blue) and DWN (green) + +What I need is the cabling harness connected to the relay bracket, along with the bracket and relays. + + +If anyone has access to such a harness/accessory and would want to help me out, I would gladly pay up-front for the pertinent equipment and transportation to Trondheim, Norway – along with any reasonable remuneration","Thanks a lot for the prompt response! + + +Please find some photos attached. The harness is obviously not original– it looks more like an Evinrude/Jonhnson type from the same period (1980-86?). The label on the bracket reads: 176584 03-F-X MEXICO.","Thanks a lot for the prompt response! + + +Please find some photos attached. The harness is obviously not original– it looks more like an Evinrude/Jonhnson type from the same period (1980-86?). The label on the bracket reads: 176584 03-F-X MEXICO.",Ditch the amp gauge. Not necessary. All you need is a volt gauge. Can't picture a dash short burning out your alt. I think you are looking down the wrong road. +"I'm looking at picking up a 1998 used boat with original Yamaha counter rotating outboard 150 hp Saltwater series engines. Claim of 450 hours. + +The part numbers are +S150TXRW +S150TLRW + +I get that the codes are: +S=Saltwater Series +150=HP +T=High Thrust +X=Standard rotation +L=Counter rotation +R=Remote +W=1998 year + +I had a V4 Johnson 115 in 1995 on a four winns. It was terrible. It ate rings. So I'm leery of two strokes...but the newer four strokes push this boat out of my financial range. + +Questions: + +How do I keep it from eating piston rings? Is that a Johnson thing? I see a regular reference to ""Ring Free"" - some sort of expensive magical potion you add to the fuel. +Are there common points of failure associated with these engines? +Anything to worry about on the lower unit? +Is there a particular oil that is the most effective? (I hate to start an oil war)","I assume these are the carb'd ones. If so, they are amongst the best carb'd 2 strokes ever made. Maybe the best. We have put 2000 hours+ on some of these engines without any issues. The only thing to be careful of with these engines is that are slightly weak in the wrist pins. Will never be an issue unless they are run badly overloaded. If the boat reaches good WOT rpm's with a normal load on then they should be absolutely fine. Correctly propped to reach max WOT rpm's those engines should burn around 16gh (60lph) at a 4000rpm cruise. They have no issues with eating rings etc and given clean fuel are about as reliable as any outboard can be. Do run Ring Free through every service, but don't panic if you can't for some reason. I pulled one of these down recently that had done 2300 hours with no Ring Free for the past 1000 hours and very little flushing (lives in salt water) for the same period (4 years). Engine had damaged a piston due to an oil pump issue. Other than the damage from the oil pump failure the engine was in amazing condition. No significant carbon buildup, no issues with blocked cooling passages etc. Not saying that you shouldn't flush or use Ring Free etc, just that these engines are tough and will handle a bit more rough use than many others will.","I assume these are the carb'd ones. If so, they are amongst the best carb'd 2 strokes ever made. Maybe the best. We have put 2000 hours+ on some of these engines without any issues. The only thing to be careful of with these engines is that are slightly weak in the wrist pins. Will never be an issue unless they are run badly overloaded. If the boat reaches good WOT rpm's with a normal load on then they should be absolutely fine. Correctly propped to reach max WOT rpm's those engines should burn around 16gh (60lph) at a 4000rpm cruise. They have no issues with eating rings etc and given clean fuel are about as reliable as any outboard can be. Do run Ring Free through every service, but don't panic if you can't for some reason. I pulled one of these down recently that had done 2300 hours with no Ring Free for the past 1000 hours and very little flushing (lives in salt water) for the same period (4 years). Engine had damaged a piston due to an oil pump issue. Other than the damage from the oil pump failure the engine was in amazing condition. No significant carbon buildup, no issues with blocked cooling passages etc. Not saying that you shouldn't flush or use Ring Free etc, just that these engines are tough and will handle a bit more rough use than many others will.","Ayuh,.... I use Rustoleum, with hardener... + +If ya want a sand texture, add some Clean sand..." +"I'm looking at picking up a 1998 used boat with original Yamaha counter rotating outboard 150 hp Saltwater series engines. Claim of 450 hours. + +The part numbers are +S150TXRW +S150TLRW + +I get that the codes are: +S=Saltwater Series +150=HP +T=High Thrust +X=Standard rotation +L=Counter rotation +R=Remote +W=1998 year + +I had a V4 Johnson 115 in 1995 on a four winns. It was terrible. It ate rings. So I'm leery of two strokes...but the newer four strokes push this boat out of my financial range. + +Questions: + +How do I keep it from eating piston rings? Is that a Johnson thing? I see a regular reference to ""Ring Free"" - some sort of expensive magical potion you add to the fuel. +Are there common points of failure associated with these engines? +Anything to worry about on the lower unit? +Is there a particular oil that is the most effective? (I hate to start an oil war)",Sounds like I'm buying the boat from you!!! Thanks for providing some perspective.,Sounds like I'm buying the boat from you!!! Thanks for providing some perspective.,"Also, post your question on the Honda forum on this site. Go to the top left of this page, click on ""Forum Home"" and then click on Honda Outboards. There are several Honda techs and very knowledgeable people who hang out on that forum." +"I'm looking at picking up a 1998 used boat with original Yamaha counter rotating outboard 150 hp Saltwater series engines. Claim of 450 hours. + +The part numbers are +S150TXRW +S150TLRW + +I get that the codes are: +S=Saltwater Series +150=HP +T=High Thrust +X=Standard rotation +L=Counter rotation +R=Remote +W=1998 year + +I had a V4 Johnson 115 in 1995 on a four winns. It was terrible. It ate rings. So I'm leery of two strokes...but the newer four strokes push this boat out of my financial range. + +Questions: + +How do I keep it from eating piston rings? Is that a Johnson thing? I see a regular reference to ""Ring Free"" - some sort of expensive magical potion you add to the fuel. +Are there common points of failure associated with these engines? +Anything to worry about on the lower unit? +Is there a particular oil that is the most effective? (I hate to start an oil war)","After experiencing their four strokes I have gone off Yamaha as a brand, but we have had 6 of those SWS2 engines at the 200hp, 175hp and 150hp ratings in a self drive hire fleet and they are about as good as it gets for ease of maintenance and reliability. +One thing when cold starting them is to make sure that the choke operates when you push the key in when in the ON position. You will hear the click from the engine. They need that choke for the first cold start each day, but after that should start perfectly all day without the choke. The other thing that they all seem to like at a cold start is a bit of throttle, so lift the fast idle lever until you have maybe 1/4 to 1/3 throttle for a cold start. Once you get the technique sorted they are usually very good starting engines, but if you don't use teh choke properly they can be frustrating when cold.","After experiencing their four strokes I have gone off Yamaha as a brand, but we have had 6 of those SWS2 engines at the 200hp, 175hp and 150hp ratings in a self drive hire fleet and they are about as good as it gets for ease of maintenance and reliability. +One thing when cold starting them is to make sure that the choke operates when you push the key in when in the ON position. You will hear the click from the engine. They need that choke for the first cold start each day, but after that should start perfectly all day without the choke. The other thing that they all seem to like at a cold start is a bit of throttle, so lift the fast idle lever until you have maybe 1/4 to 1/3 throttle for a cold start. Once you get the technique sorted they are usually very good starting engines, but if you don't use teh choke properly they can be frustrating when cold.",What year engine do you have? +"I'm looking at picking up a 1998 used boat with original Yamaha counter rotating outboard 150 hp Saltwater series engines. Claim of 450 hours. + +The part numbers are +S150TXRW +S150TLRW + +I get that the codes are: +S=Saltwater Series +150=HP +T=High Thrust +X=Standard rotation +L=Counter rotation +R=Remote +W=1998 year + +I had a V4 Johnson 115 in 1995 on a four winns. It was terrible. It ate rings. So I'm leery of two strokes...but the newer four strokes push this boat out of my financial range. + +Questions: + +How do I keep it from eating piston rings? Is that a Johnson thing? I see a regular reference to ""Ring Free"" - some sort of expensive magical potion you add to the fuel. +Are there common points of failure associated with these engines? +Anything to worry about on the lower unit? +Is there a particular oil that is the most effective? (I hate to start an oil war)",Double post,Double post,"After you find what's wrong with the starter, you still need to fix the hard starting problem. Firat do a spark test, then look at potential fuel issues. That motor should ""pop"" right off. When cold it is probably not getting enough fuel." +"I'm looking at picking up a 1998 used boat with original Yamaha counter rotating outboard 150 hp Saltwater series engines. Claim of 450 hours. + +The part numbers are +S150TXRW +S150TLRW + +I get that the codes are: +S=Saltwater Series +150=HP +T=High Thrust +X=Standard rotation +L=Counter rotation +R=Remote +W=1998 year + +I had a V4 Johnson 115 in 1995 on a four winns. It was terrible. It ate rings. So I'm leery of two strokes...but the newer four strokes push this boat out of my financial range. + +Questions: + +How do I keep it from eating piston rings? Is that a Johnson thing? I see a regular reference to ""Ring Free"" - some sort of expensive magical potion you add to the fuel. +Are there common points of failure associated with these engines? +Anything to worry about on the lower unit? +Is there a particular oil that is the most effective? (I hate to start an oil war)",Thanks for the feedback....new owner of a 1998 Grady White Voyager hard top.,Thanks for the feedback....new owner of a 1998 Grady White Voyager hard top.,one more +I am having exhaust exit where the shifting linkage goes from the lower unit to the upper. I have checked for blockage in the lower unit and do not see any. I don't know where to go from there.,"Need a model, year???","Need a model, year???","daninski said: + + + + Have you done any diagnosis like check the plugs for spark or check to see if you spark plugs are wet or dry when this happens? + +Click to expand... + +New plugs, proper gap, and they are dry when I check them. Have to get a timing light to check for spark. Engine starts pretty easy. Normal, turn it over a couple times, pull the choke, and it starts. cuts out with the choke in or out. This is my first outboard, but have a good general knowledge of motors. Any help is appreciated." +I am having exhaust exit where the shifting linkage goes from the lower unit to the upper. I have checked for blockage in the lower unit and do not see any. I don't know where to go from there.,It's a 15D 1989 or 90 I think. Ser # is 684CS 030835,It's a 15D 1989 or 90 I think. Ser # is 684CS 030835,"Tlew said: + + + + Does it run good at lower rpms, and when rpms are increased and more fuel is demand is when it gets worse? Or is it the same at any range until it warms up? + +Click to expand... + +It runs great with the fake lake on or in the water at low rpms, and it even runs good for about 10 minutes at high rpms - then it starts bogging down and +and i have to back off the throttle to 4 or 5 rpms. +I am thinking I have clogged everything up with the bad gas but I'm not sure. +Thanks" +I am having exhaust exit where the shifting linkage goes from the lower unit to the upper. I have checked for blockage in the lower unit and do not see any. I don't know where to go from there.,"I live in Sebastian too. +Bring it by. +Send me a PM with an address or phone #","I live in Sebastian too. +Bring it by. +Send me a PM with an address or phone #","Your CDI unit might be stuck in over rev mode. Go to the CDI and you wil see a grey wire that loops back into the CDI. This is your rev limiter wire. Cut this wire and try again. You can always join the ends again if that was not the problem , but I'm sure this will cure your problem." +I am having exhaust exit where the shifting linkage goes from the lower unit to the upper. I have checked for blockage in the lower unit and do not see any. I don't know where to go from there.,Thanks for the help. Your PM was full. 3215131,Thanks for the help. Your PM was full. 3215131,I assumed I would connect the gauges to the ports that the bleeders are connected at. +I am having exhaust exit where the shifting linkage goes from the lower unit to the upper. I have checked for blockage in the lower unit and do not see any. I don't know where to go from there.,"It's empty. +I sent U a PM.","It's empty. +I sent U a PM.","I have 3 of them. My experience is that these problems +are almost always fuel related. Good luck." +I am having exhaust exit where the shifting linkage goes from the lower unit to the upper. I have checked for blockage in the lower unit and do not see any. I don't know where to go from there.,??????????????,??????????????,Finding out the correct name for part is 68F-8591B-00-00 yamaha driver Found a few used on ebay around $400. Has anybody heard of these going bad? This must be problem but I wish I could tell for sure. Thanks For Listening! John +"Have a 200 (VX200TLRA) that the heat alarm keeps going off sometimes as soon has you crank it, sometimes when it is runiing around 3500rpm's. Have replaced water impellar and heat sensors and checked the bypass valve Need something else to check. water pressure seems to be good all the time. Thanks","plowboy63 said: + + + + Have a 200 (VX200TLRA) that the heat alarm keeps going off sometimes as soon has you crank it, sometimes when it is runiing around 3500rpm's. Have replaced water impellar and heat sensors and checked the bypass valve Need something else to check. water pressure seems to be good all the time. Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +I think your problem may be in your water jackets. Salt builds up over time. You will need to remove the water jackets and scape out the salt. I find using a shop Vac when I am scaping off the salt helps keep everything clean. After I have all the surfaces scaped, I spray all the surfaces with Corrision X. + +God luck!","plowboy63 said: + + + + Have a 200 (VX200TLRA) that the heat alarm keeps going off sometimes as soon has you crank it, sometimes when it is runiing around 3500rpm's. Have replaced water impellar and heat sensors and checked the bypass valve Need something else to check. water pressure seems to be good all the time. Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +I think your problem may be in your water jackets. Salt builds up over time. You will need to remove the water jackets and scape out the salt. I find using a shop Vac when I am scaping off the salt helps keep everything clean. After I have all the surfaces scaped, I spray all the surfaces with Corrision X. + +God luck!","Okay, so the whole reason nothing works, lights/gauges etc, is because the panel has no hot wire leading from the fuse panel to the battery. Where would I hook a hot wire to the fuse panel? I know how to connect to the battery obviously, but where would this go on the fuse box. I'm gonna try and upload a pic of my fuse box to show you what I'm talking about." +"It's a model F2.5MSH. Earlier this season, the engine was hard-to-start +and would not stay running unless choked. Shortly there after it would +not start, period. I opened the carburetor drain screw and drained it +tank and all. There were a lot of drops of water in the drainage. +I filled the tank with fresh fuel and everything was fine. +So, I figured that was the end of it. + +NO! This week it happened, again. I dumped the whole fuel tank and +found about a quarter-cup of water in the bottom of the drainage. +The engine is used by a bunch of different people....but, in general +everyone is good about closing the tank vent. Where is this water +coming from??? Has anyone else had this problem?? This engine +does NOT have a fuel/water separator!!",Sounds like someone's got water in the jug they use to fill the motor.,Sounds like someone's got water in the jug they use to fill the motor.,"what brand sterndrive is it? mine has sepparate solenoides for up and down . one craked , wouldn't work." +"what part of a 40hp 4 stroke Yamaha motor runs the tack? stator,trigger power pak or what? The wires go to the engine and plug in but I don't know where they run to from there. Tack went crazy and not reading right and then the motor started missing out. any help would keep me from getting out my sledge hammer. thanks.",What year and model/serial#,What year and model/serial#,"Piston needs to come out and be replaced. Together with the rings. Cylinder wall honed to clean up any damage. Hopefully it will be within limits after clean up. + +Looks like detonation damage to me. Would not be a bad idea to clean the carburetors while you are repairing the motor." +"what part of a 40hp 4 stroke Yamaha motor runs the tack? stator,trigger power pak or what? The wires go to the engine and plug in but I don't know where they run to from there. Tack went crazy and not reading right and then the motor started missing out. any help would keep me from getting out my sledge hammer. thanks.","A green wire in the ten pin harness provides the tachometer signal for remote controlled models. + +If this is a tiller handled model then the green wire should come from within the tiller handle. + +The source signal for the tachometer comes from the rectifier/regulator in the F40 model.","A green wire in the ten pin harness provides the tachometer signal for remote controlled models. + +If this is a tiller handled model then the green wire should come from within the tiller handle. + +The source signal for the tachometer comes from the rectifier/regulator in the F40 model.","Thanks for Your Replys, First to answer tonyaus Replys, I have changed my add on NAPA 12 Micron water seperator, as well as a inline filter after that and before the fuel gets to the motor, when i changed the spin on water seperator filter i dumped it and there was no trash of water, i had added a double dose od marine sta bel to the fresh fuel, motor does not miss like a plug problem, it will rev as hig as i dare try when out of gear, get under way, runs fine at 1000, and fine for a time at 2, but get on it and before it gets to 3 it will bog down, slow down and it will recover, and as long as you dont push it to hard runs fine, but keep giving it trottel and at some point it runs out of gas, + +DWard i was never able to locate a cross over from the Standard Schrader connection on my furl gauge to the Small Schrader connection on the Fuel Rail of my motor, i would still love to fine on, but i went ahead and pull the rig out of the water while i had help, i tried Snap On and a number of other Tool Companys, i may need to try a Yamaha Dealer, the one in this part of the Country don want any one to be able to do their own work, if you know where i can get a crossover like i need please let me know, i plan to order all my parts on line before i tare into it so once i open it up i can replace the filters and o rings and what not and close it back up, +DWard do i have to drop that lower motor clowing in order to get the intake manifold out? + +Thanks Again +LakeRat1" +"what part of a 40hp 4 stroke Yamaha motor runs the tack? stator,trigger power pak or what? The wires go to the engine and plug in but I don't know where they run to from there. Tack went crazy and not reading right and then the motor started missing out. any help would keep me from getting out my sledge hammer. thanks.",its a 2004 year and I will get back with model number. thanks.,its a 2004 year and I will get back with model number. thanks.,if your vent is coming out of the top of the tank then the tank will be full before it leaks gas thru the vent...same as before...however if you fill an extension above the tank(like your new fuel fill) then when you top off the tank and fill the extension you may get some leak from the vent if the end of the vent tube is below the tank...just dont overfill and you should be ok... +"what part of a 40hp 4 stroke Yamaha motor runs the tack? stator,trigger power pak or what? The wires go to the engine and plug in but I don't know where they run to from there. Tack went crazy and not reading right and then the motor started missing out. any help would keep me from getting out my sledge hammer. thanks.",Thanks Boscoe. its not a tiller its on a pontoon.,Thanks Boscoe. its not a tiller its on a pontoon.,"I have little confidence that the engine is running at peak performance. I don't think it's over propped or just an engine height issue because when I first took it out it ran at higher RPMs. Somehow the linkage for forward came off and we repaired that, and ever since then it hasn't ran at higher rpms. + +WOT with light load is usually 4000, sometimes not even that." +"what part of a 40hp 4 stroke Yamaha motor runs the tack? stator,trigger power pak or what? The wires go to the engine and plug in but I don't know where they run to from there. Tack went crazy and not reading right and then the motor started missing out. any help would keep me from getting out my sledge hammer. thanks.","Check your charging voltage. A bad rectifier can sometimes cause tach issues,","Check your charging voltage. A bad rectifier can sometimes cause tach issues,","I would ohm the switch before you replace the relay. When up button is depressed you should have continuity between the red and blue leads going thru the switch. It seems your problem is intermittent so test several times. + +If you have continuity check connections, if they are good a relay is your most likely culprit." +"How do I get the old seals out ? Mine are leaking. Can anyone take me thru the process from start to finish ? +Motor 2004 F 150 TXRC","Your best bet is get the manual. +The prop shaft seals 2 can't be pushed out from the inside so you have to pry them out. +Being VERY careful not to groove the sealing surface. +I think that's the only 2 seals/The rest are O-rings.","Your best bet is get the manual. +The prop shaft seals 2 can't be pushed out from the inside so you have to pry them out. +Being VERY careful not to groove the sealing surface. +I think that's the only 2 seals/The rest are O-rings.","I use a saw horse that i have built up to about 6' tall,with a 6' 1x4 on top with the conners rounded of as not to punch a hole in the tarp. together with the 2 pedastal seats it makes a ridge the lenght of the boat." +We were running at 28 mph when I knocking started instantly. It only has the knock when its in gear and over 8 mph. I can run it in neutral at full RPM and it has no knock. boat shop is saying they think it is a rod but in my experience with motors a rod will knock as soon as the motor runs and it is always moving and it won't knock unless its in gear. Any ideas what it could be???,"Check the lower unit for metal shavings or chunks. +Does it do it in R ? +Sounds like the clutch dog might be bad?????? +Take the lower unit apart and check the dog for wear. +Post some pics.","Check the lower unit for metal shavings or chunks. +Does it do it in R ? +Sounds like the clutch dog might be bad?????? +Take the lower unit apart and check the dog for wear. +Post some pics.",What country are you in? +We were running at 28 mph when I knocking started instantly. It only has the knock when its in gear and over 8 mph. I can run it in neutral at full RPM and it has no knock. boat shop is saying they think it is a rod but in my experience with motors a rod will knock as soon as the motor runs and it is always moving and it won't knock unless its in gear. Any ideas what it could be???,Keep operating it at full power in neutral and you won't have to worry about it.,Keep operating it at full power in neutral and you won't have to worry about it.,"using outboards? + +minimizing the length of fuel hose used will let the fuel pump work easier.....when was the last time the fuel pumps were serviced?" +We were running at 28 mph when I knocking started instantly. It only has the knock when its in gear and over 8 mph. I can run it in neutral at full RPM and it has no knock. boat shop is saying they think it is a rod but in my experience with motors a rod will knock as soon as the motor runs and it is always moving and it won't knock unless its in gear. Any ideas what it could be???,Thanks Jerry! going to get it now and will check that right away. if that's all good ill post the video I took of it when it happened.,Thanks Jerry! going to get it now and will check that right away. if that's all good ill post the video I took of it when it happened.,"take a look on the underside of the dash and see if there are any markings on the socket....also see if it goes to a 12VDC supply.... + +it's probably easier to change the outlet (socket) to match whatever you want to plug into it.... + +If they are still available, you could ask the previous owner what it was installed for." +"I have an 02 90hp Yam + 90TLRA + 6HI L 509357 + + The alarm starts as soon as the key's turned on. + I have unhooked the temp sensor so it doesn't get a signal from that. + The motor is cool, hasn't been started. + The oil tank is clean no crud. It is 2/3 full. + The alarm shuts down if I move the float up to about half way. + But if it goes all the way to the top the alarm sounds. + I figure the alarm sender(level gauge assy.) is bad????? + + Any thing I should test or look for? + + The tach doesn't have any lights or any indicators just the buzzer. + + + Thanks,Jerry","I got a manual from the owner and did some tests on the sending unit. +Turns out according to the tests the sender is bad. +Ordered a new one and it's on the way.","I got a manual from the owner and did some tests on the sending unit. +Turns out according to the tests the sender is bad. +Ordered a new one and it's on the way.",That's an excellent result. Anything else was probably going to get expensive. +"How do I replace the gear oil in lower gear case. I see a wash plug and an oil level plug but I cannot see the oil drain plug. + + Please advise, thanks","Am70ETLD does not have a ""wash"" plug if by that you mean a port that is used to flush a motor with fresh water. There are two plugs. One for the drain/fill and one to vent air as the lower unit gets filled with oil. Both are on the right hand side of the lower unit towards the front.","Am70ETLD does not have a ""wash"" plug if by that you mean a port that is used to flush a motor with fresh water. There are two plugs. One for the drain/fill and one to vent air as the lower unit gets filled with oil. Both are on the right hand side of the lower unit towards the front.","PAL: I looked at the heater, and all is as you describe it. I have seen pictures online of it also. I have a question though: The heating element seems to be not of the screw-in variety, but seems to be ""bolted"" or held down with four rather large bolts, and there must be a gasket there too. The scew in types seem to have a crenelated flange , and seem to be obviously removable by unscrewing, but this one looks more like it is a pressure fitted element. Is this possible? What part would I need in that case? This is from a 1981 SeRay, and is the six gallon with the engine heating capability. I thought I would first oreder the element, but some little voice tells me I should probably order all - the sarcrificial magnesium rod thingy, the Klixon/thermo, and the element, all at once." +"How do I replace the gear oil in lower gear case. I see a wash plug and an oil level plug but I cannot see the oil drain plug. + + Please advise, thanks","Thanks Boscoe, I did locate the drain plug and have now changed the oil. THere is a second plug close to the oil vent which is engraved with the word 'wash"" It is the same size as the oil vent. I can only assume it could be for flushing out the oil chamber after draining. What kind of flushing liquid could be used assuming it is there for that reason? +Thanks once again for your information,","Thanks Boscoe, I did locate the drain plug and have now changed the oil. THere is a second plug close to the oil vent which is engraved with the word 'wash"" It is the same size as the oil vent. I can only assume it could be for flushing out the oil chamber after draining. What kind of flushing liquid could be used assuming it is there for that reason? +Thanks once again for your information,","boscoe said: + + + + Try a test first before doing anything further. Empty the main oil tank. The one on the motor. Remove the sight sump to do this. Clean, reattach and secure the sump. Make sure the remote tank has oil in it. At least half + +Turn the key switch to the ON position only. Wait a bit. Take note of the time. The pump should start to run. Oil should start to be pumped from the remote tank to the main tank. The main tank should fill within 180 seconds. If not, the pump will time out. If the tank fills within 180 seconds the pump and the filter are doing their job. If the pump times out before 180 seconds has gone by the filter may be partially clogged and/or the voltage to the pump could be low. + +Click to expand... + +I changed the filter and drained the main tank to the bottom mark when I turned the key on got an alarm and the pump was running. after about thirty seconds I turned the key off to see if that would shut down the alarm and It did but the pump would not come back on even tried to lift the float switch and nothing happened except I got an alarm +then it started raining. going to put it in the water and try it... +Thanks" +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob","If the prime start devices are not working (or electrically connected) then they will provide too much fuel when the motor is warmed up causing it to run rich. + +If the carburetors are not synchronized it can make all the difference in the world in idle and run quality.","If the prime start devices are not working (or electrically connected) then they will provide too much fuel when the motor is warmed up causing it to run rich. + +If the carburetors are not synchronized it can make all the difference in the world in idle and run quality.","Ayuh,... As I said in yer thread in the Mercruiser forum,... Nope, it Won't work that way.... + + +Btw,... Why are you posting the same question is Many forums here,..?? +All that does is create Confusion, 'n drive many of Us Crazy...." +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob","Thanks boscoe, I am in the process of refitting the carbs after ultrasonic cleaning and soaking and am hoping to get help with balancing. +I do not know about prime start electrics I have a manual prime start lever next to accelerator. +Thanks again for your time.","Thanks boscoe, I am in the process of refitting the carbs after ultrasonic cleaning and soaking and am hoping to get help with balancing. +I do not know about prime start electrics I have a manual prime start lever next to accelerator. +Thanks again for your time.",Thanks! +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob","These are the gizmo's I am talking about. + +What is this lever that you are talking about? Is it part of a side mount control box? If so, that has nothing to do with starting the motor.","These are the gizmo's I am talking about. + +What is this lever that you are talking about? Is it part of a side mount control box? If so, that has nothing to do with starting the motor.",Maybe you have a plugged vent fitting/line. +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob","Hi, I have 4 carbs there is a solenoid and a black round thing with 2 wires coming out of it. The lever is on side of control box. +I will try and put a picture on.","Hi, I have 4 carbs there is a solenoid and a black round thing with 2 wires coming out of it. The lever is on side of control box. +I will try and put a picture on.","Hamfisted said: + + + + Hello ! Yes, it's been a long time. What motor are you working on ? Can you get any stainless wire to pass into the outlet nipple? Stainless leader wire is a good tool for this. The water jacket itself can't really be disassembled, but you can remove some plates and covers to gain access to limited areas. Your best bet is to work to get a wire or small drill bit to be able to pass into the outlet nipple and free up whatever is blocking. Running the motor in a tub of fresh water and white vinegar is a good way to do a mild sediment flush on the motor. The CLR is a more aggressive way to clean out the water jacket, but you have to be sure to get a good fresh water flush out after using it. + +Click to expand... + + + +Awesome! I will try those things and see if I have luck. I've been on TheHullTruth forum as well with bunch of suggestions (some of them repetitive as the responders don't always read the whole thread). I'll see if this has any good results and let you know. Thanks a bunch!! -Mike" +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob","The lever on the side of a 703 control box is just a means to advance the throttle without putting the motor into gear. This gizmo should not be used when starting a motor. In fact, it can make the motor harder to start.","The lever on the side of a 703 control box is just a means to advance the throttle without putting the motor into gear. This gizmo should not be used when starting a motor. In fact, it can make the motor harder to start.","Definitely a wasted spark system. + +Good idea. Not throwing parts at the symptom of some problem. Which might not exist. + +Do you have a multi meter with volt and ohm settings? + +1. Have you tested the ignition coil, the high tension leads and the spark plug caps? + +2. Have you disconnected the white wire bullet connector on the lead from the CDI assembly to eliminate the kill system? + +3. Have you tested the charge coil for voltage to the CDI assembly? + +4. Have you tested the pulser coil for voltage to the CDI assembly? + +5. Have you tested the CDI assembly for voltage to the ignition coil?" +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob","4 carbs no chokes - two primers, the primers are open when cold, they also are two needles that are seated in wax -- +they need 12 volts to warm the wax and release the needels to lean out engine -- they should get the 12 volts when +engine is running.","4 carbs no chokes - two primers, the primers are open when cold, they also are two needles that are seated in wax -- +they need 12 volts to warm the wax and release the needels to lean out engine -- they should get the 12 volts when +engine is running.","racerone said: + + + + I am not there to help you / prod you with your work.-----I would say a blockage in the carburetor or a compression issue.---Are the valves moving ?-----How did it run for you before you stored it for a year ? + +Click to expand... + +It has always run fine. Prime start and jets are operational. Starts and idles fine. Runs smooth up to 3/4 throttle. No top end. +i am wondering how the spark is advanced. (mechanically like on the old ones or electronically)?" +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob","Thanks bundee, thats something else to take a look at. When I took the carbs apart the small jet on the bottom of each carb was screwed right in, thats how they have been from new, is this correct. The engine is a bit rough when starts although when revved it clears although every time starting is a problem. I think I will blow carbs out with air and buy a Carbtune kit. Thanks a million and if you can think of anything else I would be grateful. +Cheers, Rob","Thanks bundee, thats something else to take a look at. When I took the carbs apart the small jet on the bottom of each carb was screwed right in, thats how they have been from new, is this correct. The engine is a bit rough when starts although when revved it clears although every time starting is a problem. I think I will blow carbs out with air and buy a Carbtune kit. Thanks a million and if you can think of anything else I would be grateful. +Cheers, Rob","Yamaha90hptrouble said: + + + + Hi everybody if anybody could throw my way some words of advice would be greatly appriciated !!! My 1997 90hp 2 stroke yamaha outboard is making me crazy .... The engine starts no problem and idles fine but as soon as i put it in gear it wont give me full power and occasionally stalls ....for about 20 min ....then like magic it will spark and run fine for the rest of the day ....until the next time i put it in the water. I think i have identify the problem as electric ....intermittent spark on the middle cylinder( has 3 cylinders): -carbs rebuild twice -fuel pump and lines checked -swapped spark plugs and ingition coils and the problem stay with the middle cylinder -i check the spark on the plugs with the engine at idle and didn't have a spark on the middle plug, tried few minutes later and i did have a spark. Could it be a faulty cdi unit ??? That is the conclusion that i arrive to but i would like another opinion before i start to look for a super expensive cdi unit. I disconnect and connect again all the wiring and check all the earths. The other day in took the boat out with a friend and i had the same problem (wont give me full power) and he twisted the plug cap while i was giving full throttle and the pug started to spark and the engine ran fine for the rest of the day....swapped again the plugs and the coils went out a day later ...same problem on the same cylinder ...twisted the spark plug cap while giving full throttle ....no change ....drove it around the marina for 20 minutes and then like magic the middle plug started to spark and the engine run fine for the rest of the day. Any ideas????? I live in a remote area and the only mechanic in the area is super busy so i am on my own on this one. + +Click to expand... + + ever figure out the issue?" +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob","robanfield said: + + + + Thanks bundee, thats something else to take a look at. When I took the carbs apart the small jet on the bottom of each carb was screwed right in, thats how they have been from new, is this correct. The engine is a bit rough when starts although when revved it clears although every time starting is a problem. I think I will blow carbs out with air and buy a Carbtune kit. Thanks a million and if you can think of anything else I would be grateful. +Cheers, Rob[/QUOT +The jet that is near the bottom of the float bowl should be tight. + dose this look like your carb set -- these carbs have got be very clean + +Click to expand...","robanfield said: + + + + Thanks bundee, thats something else to take a look at. When I took the carbs apart the small jet on the bottom of each carb was screwed right in, thats how they have been from new, is this correct. The engine is a bit rough when starts although when revved it clears although every time starting is a problem. I think I will blow carbs out with air and buy a Carbtune kit. Thanks a million and if you can think of anything else I would be grateful. +Cheers, Rob[/QUOT +The jet that is near the bottom of the float bowl should be tight. + dose this look like your carb set -- these carbs have got be very clean + +Click to expand...",Get a very small mechanic LOL +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob","bundee said: + + + + + +robanfield said: + + + + Thanks bundee, thats something else to take a look at. When I took the carbs apart the small jet on the bottom of each carb was screwed right in, thats how they have been from new, is this correct. The engine is a bit rough when starts although when revved it clears although every time starting is a problem. I think I will blow carbs out with air and buy a Carbtune kit. Thanks a million and if you can think of anything else I would be grateful. +Cheers, Rob[/QUOT +The jet that is near the bottom of the float bowl should be tight. + dose this look like your carb set -- these carbs have got be very clean + +Click to expand... + + +Yes absolutely spot on.After I removed the smaller nut/jet there is a screw underneath which was tight on all 4 carbs, is this correct? I think there must be a bit of a blockage in one of the very small holes in the carb + +Click to expand...","bundee said: + + + + + +robanfield said: + + + + Thanks bundee, thats something else to take a look at. When I took the carbs apart the small jet on the bottom of each carb was screwed right in, thats how they have been from new, is this correct. The engine is a bit rough when starts although when revved it clears although every time starting is a problem. I think I will blow carbs out with air and buy a Carbtune kit. Thanks a million and if you can think of anything else I would be grateful. +Cheers, Rob[/QUOT +The jet that is near the bottom of the float bowl should be tight. + dose this look like your carb set -- these carbs have got be very clean + +Click to expand... + + +Yes absolutely spot on.After I removed the smaller nut/jet there is a screw underneath which was tight on all 4 carbs, is this correct? I think there must be a bit of a blockage in one of the very small holes in the carb + +Click to expand...","Unlikely to be gears, but easy to check. Remove the spark plugs, put the engine into fwd gear and rotate the flywheel by hand whilst watching the prop. See how many turns of the flywheel are required for one turn of the prop after putting marks on both so you can measure the part turns (if any). That will tell you the gear ratio. Other way is to drop the lower unit and rotate the drive shaft by hand whilst in fwd gear. + +It is much more likely to be the prop. Is the prop the same brand and model as previous? If it is a different brand or model you are probably just dealing with a prop that has more slip on your setup." +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob",I have just noticed you are showing a small spring and another jet? I have only removed 4 bowl screws and 2 bottom jets.,I have just noticed you are showing a small spring and another jet? I have only removed 4 bowl screws and 2 bottom jets.,"I have found that the instructions and videos on two sites most helpful over the years - West Marine and Jamestown Distributors. Their painting tutorials and paint application charts are excellent. Also, BoatUS has some good articles on repair, maintenance, and restoration. + +I disagree with Eric on one key point. Your anchor rope length (scope) should be at least five times the depth of water you are likely to anchor in. Here is a link to a good write up from West Marine: https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/How-To-Anchor-Securely + +Anchor type depends on the types of bottom you are most likely to deal with. Here is another West Marine article on various anchor types. +https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Selecting-The-Right-Anchor" +"Hi to all, +The above engine was not running correctly so I stripped the carbs out and found that when I had previously serviced the engine one of the 0 rings had slipped out of position. (MY FAULT) +I renewed 0 rings and refitted carbs and started engine. It was 100% better to start and then it started to run as if it was on choke and at 1500 revs but running ""lumpy"" not smooth. +I could not slow down idle speed. +I have fitted new plugs. +I am now going to change bulb and fuel line to engine. +I am going to get carbs ultrasonically cleaned but if anybody could point me in the right direction as to engine running as if on choke it would be a great help. + +Thanks to all who have the time to offer help + +Cheers, Rob","The screw underneath as a smaller hole in it, got to be clean - clean. The set of carbs in my picture had these + holes pluged, not propley drained for winter - runs not bad now (95%) hope to get it a 100% adding some sea foam to the gas tank. Keep trying","The screw underneath as a smaller hole in it, got to be clean - clean. The set of carbs in my picture had these + holes pluged, not propley drained for winter - runs not bad now (95%) hope to get it a 100% adding some sea foam to the gas tank. Keep trying","boscoe said: + + + + What has your local Yamaha outboard motor dealer said? + +From Yamaha Ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yamaha-...25AEHT-F25AE-F25AET-Manual-6-97-/323388016292 + +https://ypec-sss.yamaha-motor.co.jp/ypec/ypec/b2c/html5/app/en_GB/parts-search/index.html + +It used to be that I could search the Yamaha Australia parts catalogs. System won't let me in since it says I am not in your region. Do a search there. You should find your model. + +I get all sorts of Google hits https://www.google.com/search?q=f25...1.69i57j0l2.3678j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 + +https://www.huntsmarine.com.au/pages/yamaha-year-models + +https://www.eastcoastyamaha.co.za/o...ing-the-model-codes-east-coast-yamaha-marine/ + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks, that helped! key thing is that it's an F25A, the ""ET"" part in not relevant when searching for manuals. I have the info I need now I think. + +I haven't asked the dealer because basically all I'm trying to do at this point is to get the carb off. Shouldn't be that hard right? But can't see or feel the bolt head on the engine side of the intake tube. With some help from the manual I'll probably find it. Worst case I guess I'll take the magneto cover off." +I have 2 '94 yamaha hpdi 300's with about 650 hrs of use on each one. One motor does not respond as the other one does and is always about 1000 rpms behind the other one. acording to my mechanic the motor is not changing from 4 cylnders to 6 as it suposed to when put in gear. We have replaced the old shift position switch for a new one and have installed new gear cables but have not been able to correct the poblem. Any Sugestions???,Check the ground to the switch. Check the continuity of the wiring from the switch to the ECU.,Check the ground to the switch. Check the continuity of the wiring from the switch to the ECU., +I have 2 '94 yamaha hpdi 300's with about 650 hrs of use on each one. One motor does not respond as the other one does and is always about 1000 rpms behind the other one. acording to my mechanic the motor is not changing from 4 cylnders to 6 as it suposed to when put in gear. We have replaced the old shift position switch for a new one and have installed new gear cables but have not been able to correct the poblem. Any Sugestions???,Also check the wire from the switch to the ECU to make sure that it is not grounded. The switch closes to make it run on 4 cylinders only. If the wire is grounded to the block the ECU will think the switch is closed and not let the other two cylinders fire.,Also check the wire from the switch to the ECU to make sure that it is not grounded. The switch closes to make it run on 4 cylinders only. If the wire is grounded to the block the ECU will think the switch is closed and not let the other two cylinders fire.,"I think you nailed it....short somewhere. Question is, how did leaving the key on overnight cause you to have a short circuit? + +Mark" +I have 2 '94 yamaha hpdi 300's with about 650 hrs of use on each one. One motor does not respond as the other one does and is always about 1000 rpms behind the other one. acording to my mechanic the motor is not changing from 4 cylnders to 6 as it suposed to when put in gear. We have replaced the old shift position switch for a new one and have installed new gear cables but have not been able to correct the poblem. Any Sugestions???,Sounds like the problem I'm having on my Yamaha 4stroke 115. I ran the diagnostic program and I only got an old code for the Shift Pos Switch.,Sounds like the problem I'm having on my Yamaha 4stroke 115. I ran the diagnostic program and I only got an old code for the Shift Pos Switch.,"Though I've never worked on your particular engine, I highly doubt the bottom cowling needs to be removed in order to access the 2 carb bolts. What it sounds like is you don't have the proper tool to remove bolts without removing cowling. This is when owning the service manual for your model/year engine comes in handy, as it specifies the necessary tools and procedure. Invest in one, it's well worth it." +"I recently have picked up a boat with a 1994 Yamaha 130hp on it. The engine sat for about 2 years before I got it. The engine was recently serviced and they had to rebuild/clean the carb and fix a pin size leak in the fuel pump. The person I got the boat from said just before the boat sat the engine had a complete rewiring done. + +When I put my boat in at the dock in the morning my engine some times will start after about 5 or so cranks, or will just sometimes leave me scratching my head before I use a few sprays of engine start. After that my engine has no trouble starting throughout the rest of the day. + +What could be my problem? I also put new spark plugs in when I got the engine.","Those 2 stroke carb'd yamahas are choke reliant when cold. How are you operating the choke, and is it operating properly if it is an electric one? I have had a lot of them and the process is always teh same when cold - +1) pump the fuel primer hard +2) Lift the fast idle lever to 1/4 - 1/3rd throttle position. +3) Engage the choke (press key, pull knob or however yours works) +4) Wind over engine +If it doesn't start within a few winds, go back and reprime then try again. +Has worked for every carb'd yamaha that I have tried.","Those 2 stroke carb'd yamahas are choke reliant when cold. How are you operating the choke, and is it operating properly if it is an electric one? I have had a lot of them and the process is always teh same when cold - +1) pump the fuel primer hard +2) Lift the fast idle lever to 1/4 - 1/3rd throttle position. +3) Engage the choke (press key, pull knob or however yours works) +4) Wind over engine +If it doesn't start within a few winds, go back and reprime then try again. +Has worked for every carb'd yamaha that I have tried.","Can't help much on the painting, but go on line to Jamestown Distributors. + +http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?resultPref=all&page=GRID&ptype=document + +and go to their ""How To"" section. Lots of real good info and advice there. + +Somewhere on your boat there will be a manufacturer's plate, usually on the gunnel at the rear. That will tell you the maximum horsepower for that boat. One of the pieces of advice I've gotten many times over the years is to always power a boat at or near its maximum allowable horsepower. If that plate is missing, do an internet search to try to find out the maximum." +"I recently have picked up a boat with a 1994 Yamaha 130hp on it. The engine sat for about 2 years before I got it. The engine was recently serviced and they had to rebuild/clean the carb and fix a pin size leak in the fuel pump. The person I got the boat from said just before the boat sat the engine had a complete rewiring done. + +When I put my boat in at the dock in the morning my engine some times will start after about 5 or so cranks, or will just sometimes leave me scratching my head before I use a few sprays of engine start. After that my engine has no trouble starting throughout the rest of the day. + +What could be my problem? I also put new spark plugs in when I got the engine.",Is it a 2or 4 stroke,Is it a 2or 4 stroke,"Under what operating conditions? + +Is it temperature related or oil pressure related? What is your Yamaha tachometer telling you?" +"engine has 4 carbs no cokes - 2 carbs have enrichment injectors (prime starters) -- the prime starters +when running have a steady 13.17 volts - should they pulesate - or what could my problem be for my +hard cold start - have a spare set carbs and primers, changed it as a set - same thing. stan","The two primers are two needles that when cold are open -- they are wax seated so as the engine warms up + the two needles close, this gives you a richer fuel for start up","The two primers are two needles that when cold are open -- they are wax seated so as the engine warms up + the two needles close, this gives you a richer fuel for start up","Hello, anybody out there wise to this problem?" +"Could use some advice from the experts on this one... I have a 1995 yamaha outboard, 85 hp, could not get lower unit off to replace impeller, have all bolts out including the hidden one under zinc trim tab. Took it to local outboard shop and they de-mounted it from transom, hung it upside down from shop crane for two days, hit it with anti-seize fluid and no go. Cost me for the try and re-mounting. So is there any other ways to get the dam thing freed up ??? Guy I bought the boat from obviously had not changed the impeller for some time. It's a great motor otherwise, bulletproof and dependable, any advice would be appreciated. +Thanks",I use an adapter on the end of the crankshaft.-------Drill a hole in the skeg for a chain loop.---------then use a hydraulic or similar puller.,I use an adapter on the end of the crankshaft.-------Drill a hole in the skeg for a chain loop.---------then use a hydraulic or similar puller.,"Thanks for the reply, Gotboat. + +I bought an agle grinder from Harbour Frt and a pack of metal cutting disks for about $19.00. + +The grinder was on sale for $10.00. If it lasts this job, it will be worth it. + +The shop that will be installing the new stingers, deck and transom told me not to grind everything down. They will do that. + +All I need to do is get the big pieces out." +"Could use some advice from the experts on this one... I have a 1995 yamaha outboard, 85 hp, could not get lower unit off to replace impeller, have all bolts out including the hidden one under zinc trim tab. Took it to local outboard shop and they de-mounted it from transom, hung it upside down from shop crane for two days, hit it with anti-seize fluid and no go. Cost me for the try and re-mounting. So is there any other ways to get the dam thing freed up ??? Guy I bought the boat from obviously had not changed the impeller for some time. It's a great motor otherwise, bulletproof and dependable, any advice would be appreciated. +Thanks","I would loosen all of the lower unit attach bolts so that if the lower unit drops it will come down about only a quarter of an inch. + +I would see if access can be gained to the drive shaft right at the base of the motor. On some Yams if the motor is turned hard to one side you will see a bit of the drive shaft. + +I would then start the motor and let it get hot. With water being supplied to it of course. I would then get an impact gun with an appropriate tool and use it to hammer on the drive shaft as close as you can to where the drive shaft enters the crank shaft. Hopefully, the crank shaft expanding due to heat, with vibration acting on the drive shaft, will permit the lower unit to break free. If so it will drop down and be held by the lower unit fasteners. Maybe the anti-seize fluid used will help it along.","I would loosen all of the lower unit attach bolts so that if the lower unit drops it will come down about only a quarter of an inch. + +I would see if access can be gained to the drive shaft right at the base of the motor. On some Yams if the motor is turned hard to one side you will see a bit of the drive shaft. + +I would then start the motor and let it get hot. With water being supplied to it of course. I would then get an impact gun with an appropriate tool and use it to hammer on the drive shaft as close as you can to where the drive shaft enters the crank shaft. Hopefully, the crank shaft expanding due to heat, with vibration acting on the drive shaft, will permit the lower unit to break free. If so it will drop down and be held by the lower unit fasteners. Maybe the anti-seize fluid used will help it along.",Looks to me like alot of wasted space and needless weight. What condition is the transom in? Take a hammer and tap all over you can tell by the tone if there is dryrot underneath it goes thunk. You can drill holes on the inside and see if you can push a ice pick into the wood. Once you get it all stripped down just use a quality AC grade plywood 5/8 is normally good depending on stringer spacing. Does it have a in hull fuel tank? There are alot of things you can do to gain freeboard that motor is going to drink alot of fuel look at the new bass boats you can always get a nice center console gives you freedom to move all around. +"Could use some advice from the experts on this one... I have a 1995 yamaha outboard, 85 hp, could not get lower unit off to replace impeller, have all bolts out including the hidden one under zinc trim tab. Took it to local outboard shop and they de-mounted it from transom, hung it upside down from shop crane for two days, hit it with anti-seize fluid and no go. Cost me for the try and re-mounting. So is there any other ways to get the dam thing freed up ??? Guy I bought the boat from obviously had not changed the impeller for some time. It's a great motor otherwise, bulletproof and dependable, any advice would be appreciated. +Thanks","racerone said: + + + + I use an adapter on the end of the crankshaft.-------Drill a hole in the skeg for a chain loop.---------then use a hydraulic or similar puller. + +Click to expand... + + +I get having a hole in the skeg and pulling on it if the top end was secured by lifting lugs to something solid. Not sure I understand the adapter for the end of the crankshaft part. + +Thanks","racerone said: + + + + I use an adapter on the end of the crankshaft.-------Drill a hole in the skeg for a chain loop.---------then use a hydraulic or similar puller. + +Click to expand... + + +I get having a hole in the skeg and pulling on it if the top end was secured by lifting lugs to something solid. Not sure I understand the adapter for the end of the crankshaft part. + +Thanks","and see if it does leak at all. What are the options? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,..... Air test it at say 5 psi or less,....." +"Could use some advice from the experts on this one... I have a 1995 yamaha outboard, 85 hp, could not get lower unit off to replace impeller, have all bolts out including the hidden one under zinc trim tab. Took it to local outboard shop and they de-mounted it from transom, hung it upside down from shop crane for two days, hit it with anti-seize fluid and no go. Cost me for the try and re-mounting. So is there any other ways to get the dam thing freed up ??? Guy I bought the boat from obviously had not changed the impeller for some time. It's a great motor otherwise, bulletproof and dependable, any advice would be appreciated. +Thanks","Jwharton said: + + + + I get having a hole in the skeg and pulling on it if the top end was secured by lifting lugs to something solid. Not sure I understand the adapter for the end of the crankshaft part. + +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Sounds like he tapped some bolts into the flywheel and used a plate or similar device to react the load that is applied to the lower unit. + +I question a load of almost any magnitude being applied to the drive shaft in a direction that is counter to the normal load that is applied, which is mostly just the weight of the drive shaft pushing downward. Damage could be done to the internals of the lower unit by pulling the lower unit in one direction while pulling the drive shaft in the opposite direction. + +People don't change impellers when they should. They also don't grease drive shafts when they should. Some folks don't give a damn and don't do any maintenance. To them maintenance is a four letter word. They then bitch about the lack of quality in the motor.","Jwharton said: + + + + I get having a hole in the skeg and pulling on it if the top end was secured by lifting lugs to something solid. Not sure I understand the adapter for the end of the crankshaft part. + +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Sounds like he tapped some bolts into the flywheel and used a plate or similar device to react the load that is applied to the lower unit. + +I question a load of almost any magnitude being applied to the drive shaft in a direction that is counter to the normal load that is applied, which is mostly just the weight of the drive shaft pushing downward. Damage could be done to the internals of the lower unit by pulling the lower unit in one direction while pulling the drive shaft in the opposite direction. + +People don't change impellers when they should. They also don't grease drive shafts when they should. Some folks don't give a damn and don't do any maintenance. To them maintenance is a four letter word. They then bitch about the lack of quality in the motor.",When does the alarm sound? +"Could use some advice from the experts on this one... I have a 1995 yamaha outboard, 85 hp, could not get lower unit off to replace impeller, have all bolts out including the hidden one under zinc trim tab. Took it to local outboard shop and they de-mounted it from transom, hung it upside down from shop crane for two days, hit it with anti-seize fluid and no go. Cost me for the try and re-mounting. So is there any other ways to get the dam thing freed up ??? Guy I bought the boat from obviously had not changed the impeller for some time. It's a great motor otherwise, bulletproof and dependable, any advice would be appreciated. +Thanks","Does the casing separate at all, or does it not even move?","Does the casing separate at all, or does it not even move?","Yes. And we have all new spark plugs. Thanks. Checked and no water in gas and hput in new gas. New plugs. #4 is new carb.; compression check 2 times and all even around 150 psi; new gas line, no vacuum leaks, swapped coils 3 times; value adjustment checked; fuel pressure running at 4 psi. + +What is the psi for the fuel pump? Are there problems on this model T50 TLRC Yamaha 50 hp 4 stroke? What would you recommend we try? Thank you.​ +Last edited by jan joyce; Today at 09:09 PM. Reason: add more information​" +"Could use some advice from the experts on this one... I have a 1995 yamaha outboard, 85 hp, could not get lower unit off to replace impeller, have all bolts out including the hidden one under zinc trim tab. Took it to local outboard shop and they de-mounted it from transom, hung it upside down from shop crane for two days, hit it with anti-seize fluid and no go. Cost me for the try and re-mounting. So is there any other ways to get the dam thing freed up ??? Guy I bought the boat from obviously had not changed the impeller for some time. It's a great motor otherwise, bulletproof and dependable, any advice would be appreciated. +Thanks","aliboy said: + + + + Does the casing separate at all, or does it not even move? + +Click to expand... + + + +Doesn't even budge. Really tight, tried some small oak wedges, rubber mallet and got nowhere. That's when I gave it to the outboard shop.","aliboy said: + + + + Does the casing separate at all, or does it not even move? + +Click to expand... + + + +Doesn't even budge. Really tight, tried some small oak wedges, rubber mallet and got nowhere. That's when I gave it to the outboard shop.",10 psi should be fine. Maybe mid to high speed should get 12 to 15 psi. +"Could use some advice from the experts on this one... I have a 1995 yamaha outboard, 85 hp, could not get lower unit off to replace impeller, have all bolts out including the hidden one under zinc trim tab. Took it to local outboard shop and they de-mounted it from transom, hung it upside down from shop crane for two days, hit it with anti-seize fluid and no go. Cost me for the try and re-mounting. So is there any other ways to get the dam thing freed up ??? Guy I bought the boat from obviously had not changed the impeller for some time. It's a great motor otherwise, bulletproof and dependable, any advice would be appreciated. +Thanks","One option I have heard people try is to loosen off all the nuts half way and then run the boat a short distance going in and out of gear. Could also do it in a tub I guess if you can keep enough water in it. +Failing that, slide a hacksaw or sabre saw blade in between the casings (if you can) and cut the shaft.","One option I have heard people try is to loosen off all the nuts half way and then run the boat a short distance going in and out of gear. Could also do it in a tub I guess if you can keep enough water in it. +Failing that, slide a hacksaw or sabre saw blade in between the casings (if you can) and cut the shaft.",That's good to know . Thank you +"Could use some advice from the experts on this one... I have a 1995 yamaha outboard, 85 hp, could not get lower unit off to replace impeller, have all bolts out including the hidden one under zinc trim tab. Took it to local outboard shop and they de-mounted it from transom, hung it upside down from shop crane for two days, hit it with anti-seize fluid and no go. Cost me for the try and re-mounting. So is there any other ways to get the dam thing freed up ??? Guy I bought the boat from obviously had not changed the impeller for some time. It's a great motor otherwise, bulletproof and dependable, any advice would be appreciated. +Thanks","aliboy said: + + + + One option I have heard people try is to loosen off all the nuts half way and then run the boat a short distance going in and out of gear. Could also do it in a tub I guess if you can keep enough water in it. +Failing that, slide a hacksaw or sabre saw blade in between the casings (if you can) and cut the shaft. + +Click to expand... + + +I guess it might come to that, what's the worst that could happen, a new drive shaft or would there be damage to the water pump housing too? + +Want to to say thanks to you guys for putting those suggestions out there, appreciate that. +Thanks","aliboy said: + + + + One option I have heard people try is to loosen off all the nuts half way and then run the boat a short distance going in and out of gear. Could also do it in a tub I guess if you can keep enough water in it. +Failing that, slide a hacksaw or sabre saw blade in between the casings (if you can) and cut the shaft. + +Click to expand... + + +I guess it might come to that, what's the worst that could happen, a new drive shaft or would there be damage to the water pump housing too? + +Want to to say thanks to you guys for putting those suggestions out there, appreciate that. +Thanks",I suspect that you do not have a functional warning horn. You can verify that by grounding the pink wire on your heat sensor when the key is on. You should hear the horn. Also check to see if your oil tank under the cowl is filling. If the oil level is down to the lower line you will go in to rpm reduction. If the oil transfer filter on the back of the remote tank is restricted you will fill to slowly to keep up with consumption. +"Could use some advice from the experts on this one... I have a 1995 yamaha outboard, 85 hp, could not get lower unit off to replace impeller, have all bolts out including the hidden one under zinc trim tab. Took it to local outboard shop and they de-mounted it from transom, hung it upside down from shop crane for two days, hit it with anti-seize fluid and no go. Cost me for the try and re-mounting. So is there any other ways to get the dam thing freed up ??? Guy I bought the boat from obviously had not changed the impeller for some time. It's a great motor otherwise, bulletproof and dependable, any advice would be appreciated. +Thanks","Jwharton said: + + + + I guess it might come to that, what's the worst that could happen, a new drive shaft or would there be damage to the water pump housing too? + +Want to to say thanks to you guys for putting those suggestions out there, appreciate that. +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Just tried running her with muffs on and fishing some plastic weed wipper chord into the out nozzle at the head a couple of times and run more Salt Away into her and it's peeing like a champ! Thinking I must have some scale or sand in there somewhere giving me circulating problems? Anyway I'm not going to do anything drastic for a few weeks as the Sockeye salmon are hitting hard out there and some big Coho are coming thru. + +Cheers","Jwharton said: + + + + I guess it might come to that, what's the worst that could happen, a new drive shaft or would there be damage to the water pump housing too? + +Want to to say thanks to you guys for putting those suggestions out there, appreciate that. +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Just tried running her with muffs on and fishing some plastic weed wipper chord into the out nozzle at the head a couple of times and run more Salt Away into her and it's peeing like a champ! Thinking I must have some scale or sand in there somewhere giving me circulating problems? Anyway I'm not going to do anything drastic for a few weeks as the Sockeye salmon are hitting hard out there and some big Coho are coming thru. + +Cheers",I always put a drop of oil on the threads of the spark plugs before installing them….help stop corrosion! +"Hey guys, + +2000 OX66 V250TXRY + +I am in the process of reconnecting the oil injection system on the motor. The previous owner had purchased it already disconnected as well. needless to say i have no idea as to why, when, or if there was a good reason. + +The motor came with the main (on engine) tank, float, switch, and pump (Mikuni). It did not have the linkage arm nor the drive shaft. I bought a remote tank and electric pump from local dealers used pile. the float and pump both work in remote tank. I also now have linkage arm and drive shaft all installed. + +Currently i am in the process of testing everything with a fine comb and priming everything. However, while going through my Yam service manual and testing the ENGINE oil tank Float, (SW1,SW2,SW3) i noticed that the float the manual describes if different from the one i actually have. The one in the book shows a single float where are the one i have has 2. It appears that the bottom float is only for SW3 or ""NO OIL"" . The manual i have for the Oil injection system (downloaded with service manual ) says SW2 should show ""OL- Continuity- OL-"" when connected to voltmeter as the float drops from top to bottom. My float shows just "" OL- Continuity"" and then stops at the circlip around the shaft. This is with meter leads between the black and the Blue/green wire. + +Is there 2 different variations to the float assy? If so are all variations compatible with the engine? There are No markings on my float other than the letter ""Z"" or ""N"" depending on how u look at it stamped in the rubber on the cap. + +Thanks in advance. Im just paranoid that the oil injection was removed for a reason other than the guy just didnt trust it, or maybe he just wanted to kill mosquitos, who knows.",Correction: The motor is an SX250TXRY. oops,Correction: The motor is an SX250TXRY. oops,"Ayuh,..... Sounds like Bad gas, or Bad gas flow to the carb,...." +"I have a 1989 Yamaha 200 2 stroke. I have replaced the water pump and housing because there want any water coming out of the piss hole.Now the only way to get water to come out of the piss hole is to hold the ears tightly to the lower unit. Once water starts to come out its fine but if I shut the engine off and wait a few minutes, it wont pickup on its own. I have put a hose on the tube that goes into the top of the water pump and water comes out fine so I think everything is ok in the top end. Any ideas? What am I missing?",How old is the water pump? Is it marine use?,How old is the water pump? Is it marine use?,"Suggest that you post this on the Merc outboard forum on this site. ick on Forum Home at the top left of his page, and click on Mercury Outboards." +"I have a 1989 Yamaha 200 2 stroke. I have replaced the water pump and housing because there want any water coming out of the piss hole.Now the only way to get water to come out of the piss hole is to hold the ears tightly to the lower unit. Once water starts to come out its fine but if I shut the engine off and wait a few minutes, it wont pickup on its own. I have put a hose on the tube that goes into the top of the water pump and water comes out fine so I think everything is ok in the top end. Any ideas? What am I missing?","Are you getting out flow from the prop etc. If so you might have a restricted pee line. Make up some kind of small tip that you could hook up to a hose and back flush from the pee hole. Mine was blocked with no flow once and it worked for me. Thanks to a post on the forum. +Good luck; +flabob1","Are you getting out flow from the prop etc. If so you might have a restricted pee line. Make up some kind of small tip that you could hook up to a hose and back flush from the pee hole. Mine was blocked with no flow once and it worked for me. Thanks to a post on the forum. +Good luck; +flabob1",Ok try it now if the video quality is not good enough let me know and ill do it again +"My twin 05 300hpdi just started to cut out. Yesterday we were cruising in heavy seas and started to notice that the engines would sputter at random at 3500rpm. Today we took the boat out and when we tried to open up the throttle it started to cut out right away. +This is a new boat to me. The boat was mothballed for 2 years. When I bought it I had all new filters installed, water separator, filter on the side of the engine and the VST filter. +When I removed the water separator today it was full of water on both engines as well as the filter on the side of the engine. I installed new sierra water separators filled them with fuel prior to installation. Took the boat back out again today and it still cuts out and died but would restart. The engines ran for at least 15 min putting through the harbor so I would think that all the air should be out. Any help as to what is going on here would be great + +thanks +dan","Sorry to say, you need to empty the fuel tanks completely, Inspect the tanks for leaks, clean the vst's again and put in fresh fuel. + +I will write this part in big letters. + +THERE IS NO SHORT CUT TO CORRECT THIS!","Sorry to say, you need to empty the fuel tanks completely, Inspect the tanks for leaks, clean the vst's again and put in fresh fuel. + +I will write this part in big letters. + +THERE IS NO SHORT CUT TO CORRECT THIS!","I saw that the starboard cabinets and seats are tilted to the right. Did buoyancy foam expand under the deck when the deck was being repaired? How tough will it be to get the seats and seat cabinets off of the starboard side of the deck? + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,....... That, would be my guess,...... + +This depends on how much access ya got for a grinder, or saws-all,....." +"My twin 05 300hpdi just started to cut out. Yesterday we were cruising in heavy seas and started to notice that the engines would sputter at random at 3500rpm. Today we took the boat out and when we tried to open up the throttle it started to cut out right away. +This is a new boat to me. The boat was mothballed for 2 years. When I bought it I had all new filters installed, water separator, filter on the side of the engine and the VST filter. +When I removed the water separator today it was full of water on both engines as well as the filter on the side of the engine. I installed new sierra water separators filled them with fuel prior to installation. Took the boat back out again today and it still cuts out and died but would restart. The engines ran for at least 15 min putting through the harbor so I would think that all the air should be out. Any help as to what is going on here would be great + +thanks +dan","Like Dockside said no short cuts. When a boat sits to long a list of things go wrong. A couple other things you might check that I found in the past are: +Your fuel tank vent lines . Could be restricted by bugs etc. Also you vent line may be clasped or bent. +Fuel tank check valve . Located at the tank where your fuel line connects to. it's a ball check valve that could be restricted. ( I removed mine years ago ) +Also if you got a lot of water in your tank there is a SOCK that you put into your tank and it sucks up the water. I used it to see if tere was any water in my tank and I was lucky didn't find any. Sorry can't remember what the name was but it works great. +Good luck +flabob1","Like Dockside said no short cuts. When a boat sits to long a list of things go wrong. A couple other things you might check that I found in the past are: +Your fuel tank vent lines . Could be restricted by bugs etc. Also you vent line may be clasped or bent. +Fuel tank check valve . Located at the tank where your fuel line connects to. it's a ball check valve that could be restricted. ( I removed mine years ago ) +Also if you got a lot of water in your tank there is a SOCK that you put into your tank and it sucks up the water. I used it to see if tere was any water in my tank and I was lucky didn't find any. Sorry can't remember what the name was but it works great. +Good luck +flabob1","racerone said: + + + + Some will argue.----I would run it at 50:1------It will last many more hrs that way. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the reply. Yes, I'm going to run it at 50:1 until I see some form of documentation from the manufacturer that they recommend 100:1. + +Now, if I can just get my hands on an owner's manual... + +Best Regards, +Jeff" +help i have yamaha 4o fe6e9 i am only geting 4 nots at full frotel and used 5 galons in 10 miles,"Lots of things to check. Has it always been like this or just started to do this? +Some possibilities - +Spun prop hub +Damaged prop +Engine set too deep +Engine is too small +Hull is dirty +Engine is out of tune or damaged +Need a lot more information to try and work out what is going on.","Lots of things to check. Has it always been like this or just started to do this? +Some possibilities - +Spun prop hub +Damaged prop +Engine set too deep +Engine is too small +Hull is dirty +Engine is out of tune or damaged +Need a lot more information to try and work out what is going on.","bondo said: + + + + Ayuh,.... The Sender is adjusted by bendin' it's arm.... + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks bondo, I'll give that a try!" +"2006 F150, my first Yamaha. Previous owner had replaced water pump impeller at some point. I replaced it when I bought the engine. It's a solid stream, but not very forceful like my (sold) Honda 225. I checked the tube back to the block and it's clean. Engine does not overheat, so I'm thinking it's just a characteristic of the Yamaha? Worst scenario is there may be a piece of an old impeller in there somewhere. Opinions?",Should be as strong as the old Honda.,Should be as strong as the old Honda.,"The T/T sender is a simple reostat. Put an ohm meter on the signal wire coming to the gauge from the T/T lever on the back of the engine. With the engine tilted all the way up (and safety lock in place) have someone slowly exercise the lever. If you read resistance varying as they move the lever, then you likely have a bad gauge, or a gauge that is not translating the resistance properly. If no variation on the ohm meter, then you have a bad sender, or bad wiring." +"2006 F150, my first Yamaha. Previous owner had replaced water pump impeller at some point. I replaced it when I bought the engine. It's a solid stream, but not very forceful like my (sold) Honda 225. I checked the tube back to the block and it's clean. Engine does not overheat, so I'm thinking it's just a characteristic of the Yamaha? Worst scenario is there may be a piece of an old impeller in there somewhere. Opinions?","IMO Honda's piss hard, Yamaha's not so much.","IMO Honda's piss hard, Yamaha's not so much.","racerone said: + + + + Is there a lock nut on it ?----You risk $$$ damage by experimenting / not getting it correct.------Adjust so that the same amount of lever movement touches the gears going to forward and reverse.-----Or hurry to a shop as they set this up in minutes. + +Click to expand... + +Ok thanks, should I even fool with it anymore or just get it to a shop? Sounds like it’s relatively easy for them to do, and would be better just to allow them to do it instead of risking damage to the motor." +"2006 F150, my first Yamaha. Previous owner had replaced water pump impeller at some point. I replaced it when I bought the engine. It's a solid stream, but not very forceful like my (sold) Honda 225. I checked the tube back to the block and it's clean. Engine does not overheat, so I'm thinking it's just a characteristic of the Yamaha? Worst scenario is there may be a piece of an old impeller in there somewhere. Opinions?","Yams are weak pissers. Tell tale water has to go through a fuel cooler and in some cases also a rectifier/regulator before it exits the motor. Not much energy left by the time it gets to the port. + +If your motor does not sound the over temp alarm you are fine. + +Jerryjerry05 is an assshole.","Yams are weak pissers. Tell tale water has to go through a fuel cooler and in some cases also a rectifier/regulator before it exits the motor. Not much energy left by the time it gets to the port. + +If your motor does not sound the over temp alarm you are fine. + +Jerryjerry05 is an assshole.","I haven't tried it yet, but I hear lots of good things about KiwiGrip non-skid. If you Google KiwiGrip, you'll find a lot reports on it." +"Buddy and I were fishing the other day and when I went to come in to put on trailer I couldn't get lever in forward. Kinda locked up for a few seconds. Couldn't get it in forward position.. BTW I'm talking about a Yamaha 30 hp Jet. +Anyway, I jiggled the throtle handle and got it in reverse then got it in forward....however now I have the throtle down about half and engine is racing but not going forward except inching maybe. Put it almost full throtle and same thing. What do you think went wrong all of a sudden.??? I know its hard to analyze a problem over the net but just thought maybe somebody had the same exact problem. Thanks for any help...Pete","Sounds like the cable might be binding? +Unhook it at the motor and see if the shifter moves freely. +Then try the shift at the drive.","Sounds like the cable might be binding? +Unhook it at the motor and see if the shifter moves freely. +Then try the shift at the drive.","Yes,looms look good but are a hitch to work with.put a drain hole at lowest point of the loom." +"Just bought a boat with a 200 OX 66 2 stroke that is giving me problems when idling. When you crank the boat it will idle then sputter real bad and cut off. I have to pump the fuel hose to get it to stay on until I can rev the engine up to get it warmed up. when sputtering it will sometimes surge also. After running the boat at 3-4000 rpms it will idle fine but if I cut it off for 30 minutes or so then crank back up the sputtering continues. Any ideas on what this could be? Thanks in advance. Also, the alarm isn't working on the engine, how major is that to have fixed?","What do the plugs look like? What is the compression? Is the top end speed within spec rpm?The injectors in that engine remain faily simple to remove.You can have them professionally cleaned for 25 ea.Aditionally,all fuel filters require replacement.","What do the plugs look like? What is the compression? Is the top end speed within spec rpm?The injectors in that engine remain faily simple to remove.You can have them professionally cleaned for 25 ea.Aditionally,all fuel filters require replacement.",Most late model yammi's as rigged will allow the tilt and trim to operate when the key is in the off position. That is why I think you have an electrical problem somewhere else and not a problem inside the engine. +"Just bought a boat with a 200 OX 66 2 stroke that is giving me problems when idling. When you crank the boat it will idle then sputter real bad and cut off. I have to pump the fuel hose to get it to stay on until I can rev the engine up to get it warmed up. when sputtering it will sometimes surge also. After running the boat at 3-4000 rpms it will idle fine but if I cut it off for 30 minutes or so then crank back up the sputtering continues. Any ideas on what this could be? Thanks in advance. Also, the alarm isn't working on the engine, how major is that to have fixed?","When you squeeze the primer ball does it eventually get hard? If it does not, check the mechanical fuel pumps. When they go bad the leak fuel into the engine and cause idling issues.","When you squeeze the primer ball does it eventually get hard? If it does not, check the mechanical fuel pumps. When they go bad the leak fuel into the engine and cause idling issues.","In this case pressure testing before and after repairs will tell you if you did it "" right ""------------also let you know where the leak actually was.--------------No real special tools needed, a wrench to turn the big nut can be made up.--------I own a Yamaha 3 cylinder 30 amongst many other motors." +Can someone please advise me how to find parts for this engine on this site? I am looking for Starter Relay Assy and Wire Harness Assy. Thanks.,"This is a US website. The last 85HP (a C85) sold here in the states was in 1996. + +I suspect that you are writing from outside the US or this is a non-US model that has been brought into the US. + +US dealers have nil information concerning models that are not sold in the USA.","This is a US website. The last 85HP (a C85) sold here in the states was in 1996. + +I suspect that you are writing from outside the US or this is a non-US model that has been brought into the US. + +US dealers have nil information concerning models that are not sold in the USA.","Just to be certain - I'm talking about a tiny filter that could have been placed on the end of the fuel pick-up line that sits down in the bottom of the fuel tank... It's the 1st filter fuel may have to pass through before it ever gets to any fuel lines, F/W filters, the fuel bulb or to the engine" +Can someone please advise me how to find parts for this engine on this site? I am looking for Starter Relay Assy and Wire Harness Assy. Thanks.,Can you recommend an international website that offers parts for this motor?,Can you recommend an international website that offers parts for this motor?,sorry about that its top bow deck by the hatch no stringers involved thanks +Can someone please advise me how to find parts for this engine on this site? I am looking for Starter Relay Assy and Wire Harness Assy. Thanks.,"Sorry, I don't know of one.","Sorry, I don't know of one.","Just realized the S/N on engine reads Z200TRXY, so does the situation change if this is an HPDI? Both cowlings and other engine read LX200TRXY so I assumed both were OX66's. + +Both have O2 sensors. + +The boat is a World Cat 266. It was originally powered with Honda 130's. The previous owner repowered with rebuilt Yamaha 200's. Not sure why they would mix engines. I have had the boat for 4 years. Both seem to drink the same amount of fuel and oil, maybe with the HPDI using more oil. + +I have been doing a lot of reading the past couple of days. I would suspect that the O2's are dirty. I do run Ring Free." +I'm looking for the original size of prop for this motor. Currently running a 21 pitch that only allows 4300 Rpms at WOT at 43 mph. The hole shot is very slow and I know it due to the 21. I'm thinking a 17 or 19 might get the Rpms in the 4500 to 5500 as the manual says is optimal for this motor. Any suggestions?,"There are no specific propellers that are supplied with the larger motors. Either a boat builder or a dealer picks and chooses the propeller they want to use. + +You can go to www.yamahaoutboards.com and then go to the performance bulletins section. Try and find a boat similar to yours with a V4 115 Yam on the back and you can see what propeller was used for the PB.","There are no specific propellers that are supplied with the larger motors. Either a boat builder or a dealer picks and chooses the propeller they want to use. + +You can go to www.yamahaoutboards.com and then go to the performance bulletins section. Try and find a boat similar to yours with a V4 115 Yam on the back and you can see what propeller was used for the PB.","If you were to open up the remote control's throttle arm, under the toggle switch is the rocker contact. This contact should be clean. If when you open and expose contact it has black burn marks....need to clean that off. That minute layer of soot is preventing the toggle switch from conducting through the rocker contact. Had intermittent t/t issues as you've described...then intermittent became permanent. Opened the throttle arm as described above...cleaned contacts, reassembled. Worked like new and has done so since cleaning, over a year ago. Same contact points are under the cowling switch." +"Have a problem with my outboard cutting out sometimes. + +Today it cut out after being run for about 20 mins, was running away fine then the power just died away and it spluttered to a stop. After starting and spluttering for about 20 mins i did get it going again and got back in on medium revs. + +It was fully fuelled and oiled. + +The outboard is fairly old, probably 10 to 20 years old. + +It has cut out before from time to time, usually when running at high revs and after being run a while, but I can usually get it started again without too much bother. + +Any help would be much appreciated.",I guess it means a new engine to be safe :-(,I guess it means a new engine to be safe :-(,"Where did you get your information from? + +This is the internet. Be very careful." +"I am thinking about buying a Winner Bass Boat with a 1988 175HP V6 Yamaha Engine on it. The engine model number is: 175ETLG, SER. NO. 402122. Can anyone tell me something about this engine. Is it prone to problems and what to look out for. It is a good looking rig. If I can I'll send the link where you can see it. http://images.craigslist.org/00N0N_27fiTHxU4zW_600x450.jpg. Do you think it's too old. Any info you can supply about this engine will be greatly appreciated. Thank you look forward to hearing from you. + +Jp","jp_banks said: + + + + I am thinking about buying a Winner Bass Boat with a 1988 175HP V6 Yamaha Engine on it. The engine model number is: 175ETLG, SER. NO. 402122. Can anyone tell me something about this engine. Is it prone to problems and what to look out for. It is a good looking rig. If I can I'll send the link where you can see it. http://images.craigslist.org/00N0N_27fiTHxU4zW_600x450.jpg. Do you think it's too old. Any info you can supply about this engine will be greatly appreciated. Thank you look forward to hearing from you. + +Jp + +Click to expand... + + If someone knows something about this engine please let me know. I don't have much time to make a decision. Thank you.","jp_banks said: + + + + I am thinking about buying a Winner Bass Boat with a 1988 175HP V6 Yamaha Engine on it. The engine model number is: 175ETLG, SER. NO. 402122. Can anyone tell me something about this engine. Is it prone to problems and what to look out for. It is a good looking rig. If I can I'll send the link where you can see it. http://images.craigslist.org/00N0N_27fiTHxU4zW_600x450.jpg. Do you think it's too old. Any info you can supply about this engine will be greatly appreciated. Thank you look forward to hearing from you. + +Jp + +Click to expand... + + If someone knows something about this engine please let me know. I don't have much time to make a decision. Thank you.",Thanks for the reply and suggestions. Will do some more homework before I start. +"Just bought a used 90hp Yamaha. Motor has good compression and runs good. Guy said it was a 1984. Tried to do the serial number look up but hit a brick wall. Thought I would try here. I use the inboard forum a lot but first time on the outboards. Hope you guys can help just as much! +Here is the info. I think I read something about the AETO being an early US model? But any help would be great! Thanks!! AL + +serial# 6H1L452021 +model (best I can tell) 90AETO",OK I see that a lot of people looked at thiss thread but I haven't heard anything. Anyone at least know where I might be able to find out any info on the motor??,OK I see that a lot of people looked at thiss thread but I haven't heard anything. Anyone at least know where I might be able to find out any info on the motor??,"Found sawdust looking crap in carb bowls; and disassembled fuel pump. FP diaphrams stiff but not torn. + +Jets and needles are getting brite & shiney in Berrymans Carb Soak. + +What about bleeding oil pump with new supply hose? Will run and udate post. + +Thanks" +"Just bought a used 90hp Yamaha. Motor has good compression and runs good. Guy said it was a 1984. Tried to do the serial number look up but hit a brick wall. Thought I would try here. I use the inboard forum a lot but first time on the outboards. Hope you guys can help just as much! +Here is the info. I think I read something about the AETO being an early US model? But any help would be great! Thanks!! AL + +serial# 6H1L452021 +model (best I can tell) 90AETO","I have a Yamaha 90 AETO currently. This one was bought new in 2000! I believe they first built them in 1984 and continued to for quite a while. Triple carb motor, mine goes well excepting small leak from oil tank sensor.","I have a Yamaha 90 AETO currently. This one was bought new in 2000! I believe they first built them in 1984 and continued to for quite a while. Triple carb motor, mine goes well excepting small leak from oil tank sensor.",This is why I need a wiring diagram that covers whatever kind of mod etc this engine has lol +"Just bought a used 90hp Yamaha. Motor has good compression and runs good. Guy said it was a 1984. Tried to do the serial number look up but hit a brick wall. Thought I would try here. I use the inboard forum a lot but first time on the outboards. Hope you guys can help just as much! +Here is the info. I think I read something about the AETO being an early US model? But any help would be great! Thanks!! AL + +serial# 6H1L452021 +model (best I can tell) 90AETO","Below is an url for a workshop manual for the 90 AETO amongst other motors, might be useful + +http://folk.uio.no/froder/stuff/50GETO_6H2_28197_Z9_11.pdf","Below is an url for a workshop manual for the 90 AETO amongst other motors, might be useful + +http://folk.uio.no/froder/stuff/50GETO_6H2_28197_Z9_11.pdf",I had hoped the valves would need adjusting but they were actually pretty tight. All intake valves measured 007 or 008 and all the exhaust valves measured 011. Didn't get to do the leak down yet. +"Hi Folks ! +I've got a 40 hp 2 stroke yamaha which has a damaged prop ! +The prop is a 11 3/4 x 12-G can i replace it with a 11 3/4 x 10-G ???? +What difference will this make ?? +Cheers in advance !","Not an expert at this but have changed props to improve performance by trialling various. +You need to know the ""operating range"" of the motor, say 5000 - 5500 revs (or what the manufacturer states) and ensure boat will still reach this range and not exceed it. Exceeding means under propped (too fine) and not attaining bottom of range at wot means too coarse. Is quite important!","Not an expert at this but have changed props to improve performance by trialling various. +You need to know the ""operating range"" of the motor, say 5000 - 5500 revs (or what the manufacturer states) and ensure boat will still reach this range and not exceed it. Exceeding means under propped (too fine) and not attaining bottom of range at wot means too coarse. Is quite important!","Hi +Yes it does look very similar . +Thanks for finding this. +Much appreciated." +"I just bought a brand new boat with a 2011 F70 Yamaha 4 Stroke took it out for the first time today it fired up just fine and we ran the break in process for the motor and after running it around for awhile decided to do some fishing shut down the motor fished for awhile and when we were going to leave the motor would not crank the starter would not do anything the battery was fully charged I could hear the fuel pump energizing but nothing else would happen. After a little bit of messing around in the motor checking the fuses and wiring connections and triple checking the boat was not in gear I found nothing out of the ordinary. Out of the blue then the motor fired and we headed for home and it ran just fine no problems at all when we got back to the dock we shut it down and then tried to fire it and again nothing happened. After we got home just for giggles we hit the key and it at that point turned over. To me it seems like it acts up when the motor is hot but then when it cools then it fires is there a sensor in the F70 that could be the culprit we are going to be taking it to the shop where we bought it but I would just like to hear if anyone else has had the same problem? +Any help would be appriciated! +Thank You +Derek","Sounds like you have a bad connection at the battery or on the engine,fuel pump doesn't take a lot of juice to turn on.but when you try to crank it over it takes alot of voltage.Also if it happens again,see if your gauges cut out then you know you have a bad connection","Sounds like you have a bad connection at the battery or on the engine,fuel pump doesn't take a lot of juice to turn on.but when you try to crank it over it takes alot of voltage.Also if it happens again,see if your gauges cut out then you know you have a bad connection","Bass Bandit said: + + + + Can't enter year and model into www.simyamaha.com + +Click to expand... + +Of course you can not. www.simyamaha.com is a US website. You do not have a US Yamaha." +"I just bought a brand new boat with a 2011 F70 Yamaha 4 Stroke took it out for the first time today it fired up just fine and we ran the break in process for the motor and after running it around for awhile decided to do some fishing shut down the motor fished for awhile and when we were going to leave the motor would not crank the starter would not do anything the battery was fully charged I could hear the fuel pump energizing but nothing else would happen. After a little bit of messing around in the motor checking the fuses and wiring connections and triple checking the boat was not in gear I found nothing out of the ordinary. Out of the blue then the motor fired and we headed for home and it ran just fine no problems at all when we got back to the dock we shut it down and then tried to fire it and again nothing happened. After we got home just for giggles we hit the key and it at that point turned over. To me it seems like it acts up when the motor is hot but then when it cools then it fires is there a sensor in the F70 that could be the culprit we are going to be taking it to the shop where we bought it but I would just like to hear if anyone else has had the same problem? +Any help would be appriciated! +Thank You +Derek","Did you ever find a resolution for this issue, I am experiencing the exact same symptoms on my F70 with jet drive.","Did you ever find a resolution for this issue, I am experiencing the exact same symptoms on my F70 with jet drive.",So I should put a switch so that it charges from the motor when running and from the solar when the motor isnt running +i hav a selva (yamaha) 4 hp 4 stroke and when i opened to check the engine oil i found it is like milk,"Bargello Perfume said: + + + + i hav a selva (yamaha) 4 hp 4 stroke and when i opened to check the engine oil i found it is like milk + +Click to expand... + + +Generally means there is water in the oil...might not be a good thing that it is milky...","Bargello Perfume said: + + + + i hav a selva (yamaha) 4 hp 4 stroke and when i opened to check the engine oil i found it is like milk + +Click to expand... + + +Generally means there is water in the oil...might not be a good thing that it is milky...","Stickyskilet said: + + + + thanks for the reply... I didn’t test at WOT... but the 15.5 was idle, and the 15.75 was about half throttle... would lead me to believe it’d climb to around 16 at wot. + +to be clear... I’m not hung up on having the charging system at all. I’d be just as happy to disconnect the rectifier and leads altogether if it’s safe to do so.[/QUOTE + +You can do that. The motor came from the factory with the rectifier. You are just returning it to its original configuration. + +Click to expand..." +i hav a selva (yamaha) 4 hp 4 stroke and when i opened to check the engine oil i found it is like milk,"Surfmonkey said: + + + + Generally means there is water in the oil...might not be a good thing that it is milky... + +Click to expand... + + +do you know what i have to check? maybe gaskit?","Surfmonkey said: + + + + Generally means there is water in the oil...might not be a good thing that it is milky... + +Click to expand... + + +do you know what i have to check? maybe gaskit?",Most motors need to be running to shift.----Or if on a stand you need to turn the prop to get reverse.-----Been that way since about 1950 on most motors. +i hav a selva (yamaha) 4 hp 4 stroke and when i opened to check the engine oil i found it is like milk,I would take it into the shop and let them make determination if it is water or gas in the oil.,I would take it into the shop and let them make determination if it is water or gas in the oil.,Anyone ? +"Background: Boat purchased, previous owner ran nothing but non ethanol gas, I have done the same. Boat ran fine on test drive. Boat ran fine for 2 weeks after purchase. Yesterday I was cruising 12-15 mph, and appeared to run out of gas. Changed tanks like normal primed it yadda yadda... boat would crank run a few minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die. Prime it again choke it crank it run good for 5 minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die again. Basically I limped it back to the dock like this. The boat has never been run over about 15 mph. Now trying to repair it the float ball (primer bulb, whatever you call it) you can prime it but never seems to tighten up. I replaced this thinking bad ball, same results. + +checked the fuel filter and cleaned it, not bad but did it anyway. Still having the same issue. So before I randomly start replacing parts such as fuel pump, etc would anybody have a suggestion? + +Thanks",the ball should tighten up and become hard....then it will not remain hard when you are running...visually inspect everything in the gas system...make sure the carb(s) are not overflowing if you continue to pump bulb....make sure the connector on the fuel line connecting to the motor is fully snapped into place and the oring is good...will the motor run ok if someone is pumping the bulb?....to net it out the bulb should pump up hard..if no fuel is visable anywhere then suspect a air leak on the tank side of the bulb feed...make sure the tank is vented...,the ball should tighten up and become hard....then it will not remain hard when you are running...visually inspect everything in the gas system...make sure the carb(s) are not overflowing if you continue to pump bulb....make sure the connector on the fuel line connecting to the motor is fully snapped into place and the oring is good...will the motor run ok if someone is pumping the bulb?....to net it out the bulb should pump up hard..if no fuel is visable anywhere then suspect a air leak on the tank side of the bulb feed...make sure the tank is vented...,"capt bob- how important if you use 2 bilge pumps- is putting one way valves in? Can one or the other pump water back thru the other one? Is it necessary to put one way valve to prevent that from happening? + +Mine is totally manual- there is a switch on the console to turn power on- I would like to wire it such that it turns on if necessary--via float switch or whatever without any effort from me like you say- accidently turning it on (when you dont need it) or off when you do---or forgetting to do either- could spell disaster with dead batteries or a flooded boat---but maybe I should just leave things as they are. Thanks" +"Background: Boat purchased, previous owner ran nothing but non ethanol gas, I have done the same. Boat ran fine on test drive. Boat ran fine for 2 weeks after purchase. Yesterday I was cruising 12-15 mph, and appeared to run out of gas. Changed tanks like normal primed it yadda yadda... boat would crank run a few minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die. Prime it again choke it crank it run good for 5 minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die again. Basically I limped it back to the dock like this. The boat has never been run over about 15 mph. Now trying to repair it the float ball (primer bulb, whatever you call it) you can prime it but never seems to tighten up. I replaced this thinking bad ball, same results. + +checked the fuel filter and cleaned it, not bad but did it anyway. Still having the same issue. So before I randomly start replacing parts such as fuel pump, etc would anybody have a suggestion? + +Thanks","Treetime said: + + + + Background: Boat purchased, previous owner ran nothing but non ethanol gas, I have done the same. Boat ran fine on test drive. Boat ran fine for 2 weeks after purchase. Yesterday I was cruising 12-15 mph, and appeared to run out of gas. Changed tanks like normal primed it yadda yadda... boat would crank run a few minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die. Prime it again choke it crank it run good for 5 minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die again. Basically I limped it back to the dock like this. The boat has never been run over about 15 mph. Now trying to repair it the float ball (primer bulb, whatever you call it) you can prime it but never seems to tighten up. I replaced this thinking bad ball, same results. + +checked the fuel filter and cleaned it, not bad but did it anyway. Still having the same issue. So before I randomly start replacing parts such as fuel pump, etc would anybody have a suggestion? + +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Repair made. Apparently the fuel line had a leak somewhere. I replaced the lines and everything works great.","Treetime said: + + + + Background: Boat purchased, previous owner ran nothing but non ethanol gas, I have done the same. Boat ran fine on test drive. Boat ran fine for 2 weeks after purchase. Yesterday I was cruising 12-15 mph, and appeared to run out of gas. Changed tanks like normal primed it yadda yadda... boat would crank run a few minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die. Prime it again choke it crank it run good for 5 minutes sound like it was starving for fuel then die again. Basically I limped it back to the dock like this. The boat has never been run over about 15 mph. Now trying to repair it the float ball (primer bulb, whatever you call it) you can prime it but never seems to tighten up. I replaced this thinking bad ball, same results. + +checked the fuel filter and cleaned it, not bad but did it anyway. Still having the same issue. So before I randomly start replacing parts such as fuel pump, etc would anybody have a suggestion? + +Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +Repair made. Apparently the fuel line had a leak somewhere. I replaced the lines and everything works great.","I would guess both issues are related to the rewiring that was done. Sounds like it went into limp mode. But I think that voltage drop when you hit the trim is normal. + +Get the service manual from yamahapubs.com if you don't have it, because it will give you all the specs on peak output voltage for the stator and all the rest. Also, start from the place where you know it's not working (that tach) and go backwards from there with the multimeter. Go all the way to the computer, which could just be fried at this point." +"Looking for advice on how to fix this broken earth wire. + +I was changing oil this morning and I decied to pull the side covers off my 200 Hp and I notice this wire had corroded and broken off. I have not noticed any issues with the motor but now that I've seen it I would like to fix it. Does anyone know what it is and how to fix it??","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Does the wire go into the loop? Can you strip it back a little and solder on another lug connector? + +Click to expand... + + +Nah. Its to far gone. I was wondering how important that earth was because it seems to have been like this for sometime","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Does the wire go into the loop? Can you strip it back a little and solder on another lug connector? + +Click to expand... + + +Nah. Its to far gone. I was wondering how important that earth was because it seems to have been like this for sometime","take a look on the underside of the dash and see if there are any markings on the socket....also see if it goes to a 12VDC supply.... + +it's probably easier to change the outlet (socket) to match whatever you want to plug into it.... + +If they are still available, you could ask the previous owner what it was installed for." +"Looking for advice on how to fix this broken earth wire. + +I was changing oil this morning and I decied to pull the side covers off my 200 Hp and I notice this wire had corroded and broken off. I have not noticed any issues with the motor but now that I've seen it I would like to fix it. Does anyone know what it is and how to fix it??","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + I wouldnt just ignore it get a good schematic and try and determine the purpose. It may be just a redundent ground or possibly it has something to do with electrolosis? + +Click to expand... + +Good point will do..","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + I wouldnt just ignore it get a good schematic and try and determine the purpose. It may be just a redundent ground or possibly it has something to do with electrolosis? + +Click to expand... + +Good point will do..","Thanks ira11y Sounds like its working well. Ive seen the same results. My engine maxs out the rev limiter at 6200. One thing I have noticed is the fuel consumption and economy have changed as well. It's using more fuel which shows the fuel mapping/sensors are capable of noticing the extra air and compensating by adjusting the fuel flow according and not running lean. + +DaveLadely is 2002 model carby? No ECU? You can still remove the air intake restrictor to pick ups some extra HP." +"The two LED combo gauges are toast on my 1988 90 triple and I think replacements are way over priced. So I'm thinking of replacing with more conventional gauges like speedo , tach , fuel , trim and 12 volt with possibly water pressure. Any technical issues to overcome ? Any recommendations on brand ? Looks like Teleflex and Faria are the main players ? Anyone done this that can pass along tips ? Anything I need to know when ordering ?","hydrasport cc said: + + + + The two LED combo gauges are toast on my 1988 90 triple and I think replacements are way over priced. So I'm thinking of replacing with more conventional gauges like speedo , tach , fuel , trim and 12 volt with possibly water pressure. Any technical issues to overcome ? Any recommendations on brand ? Looks like Teleflex and Faria are the main players ? Anyone done this that can pass along tips ? Anything I need to know when ordering ? + +Click to expand... + + + +No one has an opinion/experience with this ???","hydrasport cc said: + + + + The two LED combo gauges are toast on my 1988 90 triple and I think replacements are way over priced. So I'm thinking of replacing with more conventional gauges like speedo , tach , fuel , trim and 12 volt with possibly water pressure. Any technical issues to overcome ? Any recommendations on brand ? Looks like Teleflex and Faria are the main players ? Anyone done this that can pass along tips ? Anything I need to know when ordering ? + +Click to expand... + + + +No one has an opinion/experience with this ???","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + You are hearing a click but it is not your starter.....Find and replace the slave solenoid. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks much! I'll give that a try. + +Jeff" +Motor ran fine last summer with plenty of power but when I took it out this year it does not have the same power. Runs seven MPH slower and turns seven to eight hundred less RPMs. Could this be a fuel problem or if water pump is worn and temp is elevated would this slow it down?,"river said: + + + + Motor ran fine last summer with plenty of power but when I took it out this year it does not have the same power. Runs seven MPH slower and turns seven to eight hundred less RPMs. Could this be a fuel problem or if water pump is worn and temp is elevated would this slow it down? + +Click to expand... + + +After changing water pump I have notice a slight knock or rattle, but not continuous.","river said: + + + + Motor ran fine last summer with plenty of power but when I took it out this year it does not have the same power. Runs seven MPH slower and turns seven to eight hundred less RPMs. Could this be a fuel problem or if water pump is worn and temp is elevated would this slow it down? + +Click to expand... + + +After changing water pump I have notice a slight knock or rattle, but not continuous.",Sounds like someone's got water in the jug they use to fill the motor. +"Morning +My name Héðinn and I am from Iceland +I recently bought a boat Humber 6.3 mtr with 2x 70hp Yamaha 2t motors +one of the motors has a damaged lower unit +I am currently searching for a new lower unit +I was told that it will not fit a 2003 motor because the shaft is too thick +Then I was offered a lower unit from 2002 60hp motor. +Can you tell me if this will fit? + +Is it true that the lower unit of the older engines may not fit the 2004 model year + +if I can not use what is available here in Iceland, where do you recomend buying lower unit online + +I have pictures in attachment + +Many thanks!! + +P. S. Excuse my poor English.",PM sent.,PM sent.,"Yamaha US parts books go back to 1984. + +What is it that you are looking for? + +Yamaha does not offer a modification conversion kit." +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","What does the autolube part have to do with a no charging issue? + +What is the complete identity of the motor?","What does the autolube part have to do with a no charging issue? + +What is the complete identity of the motor?",would you think it is a problem if i put atf fluid in the power steering? +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","Is is a yahaha 25hp 2 stroke autolube, no year marked on it but must be at least 10 years old. + +Only details i can find are 25NEO 6L2 L 451571. + +Have tested the regulator and it tests fine, 0.5 ohms continuity when tested one way, open circuit when testing with the leads the other way around. + +Where do I go from here?","Is is a yahaha 25hp 2 stroke autolube, no year marked on it but must be at least 10 years old. + +Only details i can find are 25NEO 6L2 L 451571. + +Have tested the regulator and it tests fine, 0.5 ohms continuity when tested one way, open circuit when testing with the leads the other way around. + +Where do I go from here?",Guyjg....it dont really matter if you have a regulated supply...the current will decrease with resistance increase in the load....lets take a corroded negative battery terminal on a boat for example....if you measure from the negative terminal of the battery to the positive terminal from the terminal with no load lets say you read 12.7v...if you move the negative lead from the battery to the block with no load you will still read 12.7...ok...try to turn the motor over and take the same readings and you will see a difference in voltage between the motor ground and the negative post on the battery....no amount of regulation will remove that drop...the current from the battery will decrease compared to a good cable....its like pushing water through a hose with some restriction in it..water flow will drop...the same would apply to the positive side of the battery having a problem except the reading would differ between the starter positive post and the battery positive post... the heat you feel on an corroded cable or connection is because the bad spot has become a resistor..all resistors dissipate heat...a small low wattage resistor would burn up in this situation....actually with a connection you are drawing less current from the battery in most cases..i say most cases because you can blow a fuse if the connectoin is intermittent and you draw an arc..but thats a whole new discussion and unimportant on 99.9 % of our problems...Aliboy is basically correct in his statement that a regular meter draws a very small amount of current when measuring voltage...the better the meter the less current but thats why a regular meter is inaccurate(and will damage) in most electronic circuits and not used....they build expensive meters and oscilloscopes for that purpose...but they would still read the drop in voltage under load...(i know you know all this Guyjg but i figure if i put it up then some who dont understand it will read it) +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","Get a copy of the service manual. It should provide the procedure for testing the rectifier/regulator. In general, the output should be approximately 14.5 volts. If no output then check the lighting coil for specifications and proper AC voltage output.","Get a copy of the service manual. It should provide the procedure for testing the rectifier/regulator. In general, the output should be approximately 14.5 volts. If no output then check the lighting coil for specifications and proper AC voltage output.","dark_star said: + + + + Check the arrow on the bulb make sure it points toward the motor. + +Click to expand... + + +yes the arrow is pointing towards the fuel filter which then goes to the motor" +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","Thanks, can you recommend anywhere for getting a service manual?","Thanks, can you recommend anywhere for getting a service manual?","Maybe,just maybe you did run out of gas but the tank was not empty. (Withdraw broke,anti syfon failure)" +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","Better to check for continuity using the continuity function of a VOM rather than the resistance/ohm setting. + +From the green lead to the green lead their should be no continuity. + +From either green lead to the red lead there should be continuity. + +From red to either green their should be no continuity. + +From black to either green lead or the red lead there should be continuity. + +The check for the lighting coil is .28 ohm from green lead to green lead. Make sure that neither green lead is shorted to ground. + +The output spec for the lighting coil is 10 volts or more at 3000 RPM and 15 plus or minus 1.5 volts at 5500 RPM. Remember that the output of the coil is AC. + +Generally, if the lighting coil is producing specification voltage but the rectifier is not then the conclusion is that the rectifier has failed. But make sure it has a good ground path.","Better to check for continuity using the continuity function of a VOM rather than the resistance/ohm setting. + +From the green lead to the green lead their should be no continuity. + +From either green lead to the red lead there should be continuity. + +From red to either green their should be no continuity. + +From black to either green lead or the red lead there should be continuity. + +The check for the lighting coil is .28 ohm from green lead to green lead. Make sure that neither green lead is shorted to ground. + +The output spec for the lighting coil is 10 volts or more at 3000 RPM and 15 plus or minus 1.5 volts at 5500 RPM. Remember that the output of the coil is AC. + +Generally, if the lighting coil is producing specification voltage but the rectifier is not then the conclusion is that the rectifier has failed. But make sure it has a good ground path.",Nice to meet you William. +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","Thanks. + +I was using a multimeter to test the resistance, what is a VOM? + +The two green wires on the rectifier come from under the flywheel, is that the coil from the alternator, lighting coil you mentioned? + +Can these two green wires be disconnected from the rectifier and tested when the engine is running?","Thanks. + +I was using a multimeter to test the resistance, what is a VOM? + +The two green wires on the rectifier come from under the flywheel, is that the coil from the alternator, lighting coil you mentioned? + +Can these two green wires be disconnected from the rectifier and tested when the engine is running?",Sounds like an ignition miss.---------------Use a timing light to see which cylinder.--------Do a compression test also. +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","Melvin Hall said: + + + + Thanks. + +I was using a multimeter to test the resistance, what is a VOM? A multimeter. + +The two green wires on the rectifier come from under the flywheel, is that the coil from the alternator, lighting coil you mentioned? Yes + +Can these two green wires be disconnected from the rectifier and tested when the engine is running? Yes + +Click to expand... + + + +See comments above.","Melvin Hall said: + + + + Thanks. + +I was using a multimeter to test the resistance, what is a VOM? A multimeter. + +The two green wires on the rectifier come from under the flywheel, is that the coil from the alternator, lighting coil you mentioned? Yes + +Can these two green wires be disconnected from the rectifier and tested when the engine is running? Yes + +Click to expand... + + + +See comments above.",From what I looked up on the part numbers for the carburetors and jets they are the same parts numbers for both 40 HP and 50 HP models. Not sure about the exhaust part #'s So I'm guessing it may be just returning the carburetors to get it up to 50 HP?? +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","Thanks, + +Tested the conitinuity of the lighting coil and was less than half an ohm. + +Measured the coil output voltage, was about 7vac at idle, raised to 19vac flat out. + +coil was not shorted to earth. + +Would this point towards the rectifier then? + +The battery was at 13v with the engine off, with it running it did go up to 13.2v at idle, 13.6v flat out. + +Is there a maximum capacity size the battery should be? + +With the engine running i can get the fishfinder to switch on, but when i try to turn on the vhf or lights or anything else the fishfnder goes dead.","Thanks, + +Tested the conitinuity of the lighting coil and was less than half an ohm. + +Measured the coil output voltage, was about 7vac at idle, raised to 19vac flat out. + +coil was not shorted to earth. + +Would this point towards the rectifier then? + +The battery was at 13v with the engine off, with it running it did go up to 13.2v at idle, 13.6v flat out. + +Is there a maximum capacity size the battery should be? + +With the engine running i can get the fishfinder to switch on, but when i try to turn on the vhf or lights or anything else the fishfnder goes dead.","you need to drop lower gearcase and changeout waterpump,pull thermostats, Put hose on water tube,flush upwards,and flush downwards thru stats opening" +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","Keep in mind that the output of current from your rectifier is very small. More than likely less than five amps at wide open throttle. It sounds as if the system is working. + +From what you are describing I would suspect the problem is related to the battery or the wiring. Even if you had no electrical output at all from the motor a good battery and good wiring should be able to provide enough current to operate a fish finder, a VHF radio and some lights for a period of time without dropping its voltage to the point that the fish finder turns itself off due to low voltage. One test of a battery is a load test. An electrical load of XYZ amps is applied while the voltage of the battery is observed. The voltage is not to drop below 10.5 volts. + +You can take the battery to an auto parts store and get it load tested for free. You yourself can inspect all of the electrical connections to make sure they are clean and tight.","Keep in mind that the output of current from your rectifier is very small. More than likely less than five amps at wide open throttle. It sounds as if the system is working. + +From what you are describing I would suspect the problem is related to the battery or the wiring. Even if you had no electrical output at all from the motor a good battery and good wiring should be able to provide enough current to operate a fish finder, a VHF radio and some lights for a period of time without dropping its voltage to the point that the fish finder turns itself off due to low voltage. One test of a battery is a load test. An electrical load of XYZ amps is applied while the voltage of the battery is observed. The voltage is not to drop below 10.5 volts. + +You can take the battery to an auto parts store and get it load tested for free. You yourself can inspect all of the electrical connections to make sure they are clean and tight.","faztbullet said: + + + + Turn it upside down..... + +Click to expand... + + +Wow, that was the ticket. Thank you. +Once I hooked up the shift linkage I turned it upside down and 2 mins later it was in. +Much appreciated. +Gravity is my friend !!" +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","Thanks, + +The battery i got with the boat was a pretty heavty jcb battery, i thought there might be a problem with it so i bought a new 40ah car battery and tried it, just seemed to work the same. I can get the fishfinder to work, but when turning on anything else it just goes dead. + +I have connected in two solar panels to try and raise the voltage a bit, it seems to help a bit but not much.","Thanks, + +The battery i got with the boat was a pretty heavty jcb battery, i thought there might be a problem with it so i bought a new 40ah car battery and tried it, just seemed to work the same. I can get the fishfinder to work, but when turning on anything else it just goes dead. + +I have connected in two solar panels to try and raise the voltage a bit, it seems to help a bit but not much.","Please state the problem in the title rather then ""need help""" +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","It seems as though the voltage is disappearing somewhere, but have not figured out where yet","It seems as though the voltage is disappearing somewhere, but have not figured out where yet","Outdrive turns pretty easily with just the lower helm connected. + +Click to expand... + + +Ayuh,...... Then the problem is in the upper helm unit,......" +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.",Could the rectifier be on its way out? will have to test it again.,Could the rectifier be on its way out? will have to test it again.,"Ayuh,... As I said in yer thread in the Mercruiser forum,... Nope, it Won't work that way.... + + +Btw,... Why are you posting the same question is Many forums here,..?? +All that does is create Confusion, 'n drive many of Us Crazy...." +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","Replace the rectifier and see however if you want to throw money at the problem. + +I don't think it is is the rectifier. Poor wires or electrical connections will cause the problems that you describe. Particularly the ground wiring.","Replace the rectifier and see however if you want to throw money at the problem. + +I don't think it is is the rectifier. Poor wires or electrical connections will cause the problems that you describe. Particularly the ground wiring.","light brown is likely the TAN wire and usually goes to the warning horn...and I'd guess what you call a circle connection is a bullet connector... + +assuming the accessories in question are feed by the fuse block, do you have battery voltage at the input to the fuse block? (sometimes they use a MAIN switch that will isolate the fuse block...honestly its been a while since i was in one that old...if you have the +12VDC at the input to the fuse block and the fuses are good, then you need to make sure the ground wire(s) make it back to the battery." +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","I tested the battery and then tested at my control box, there was more than a half a volt difference, so i suspected the supply cable. + +I connected a heavier cable from the battery to the control box and tested again. + +This time there was no voltage drop, tried switching on my functions and everything worked ok, so the cable must have been the problem!","I tested the battery and then tested at my control box, there was more than a half a volt difference, so i suspected the supply cable. + +I connected a heavier cable from the battery to the control box and tested again. + +This time there was no voltage drop, tried switching on my functions and everything worked ok, so the cable must have been the problem!",Most likely your trim motor is shorted to ground internally. You would have to change the motor.. why do you want to put the lights etc on a seperates battery? +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.",Thanks for all your help!,Thanks for all your help!,"Hey Bikewider, If the oil pump motor is working, and your float sensor inside the small oil tank on the motor is not ""stuck"" in the floating or UP position then most likely your in-line mini filter from onboard oil tank to remote oil tank on the motor is clogged." +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.",You are welcome. I hope that the problem has been solved. Seems so.,You are welcome. I hope that the problem has been solved. Seems so.,"Do you have any marine technical schools nearby? + +Nothing to do with GI benefits but you might find a Yamaha dealer to putz around with. He might let you attend the Yamaha courses in Kennesaw, Ga. They are free to him." +"Have tested the battery voltage before starting the engine, 12.9v, it did not raise when running the engine at idle or at full throttle, so have come to the conclusion it is not charging. + +If the most likely problem is with the rectifier, I would need help identifying it and how to test it? + +Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.","I've rewired the cabling to thee control box and all my functions can work now ok. + +This has lead me onto my next problem though. When the vhf is on, and i turn on the fishfinder the vhf picks up the interference, clicking noises. Is the way to clear this to move the transducer cable away from the supply cable of the vhf?","I've rewired the cabling to thee control box and all my functions can work now ok. + +This has lead me onto my next problem though. When the vhf is on, and i turn on the fishfinder the vhf picks up the interference, clicking noises. Is the way to clear this to move the transducer cable away from the supply cable of the vhf?","It's not very clear what you are asking. + +First, I assume you are trying to interface with the Garmin 750 GPSMAP chartplotter (not the NUVI) correct? + +The red & black wire in the second picture is the power cable for getting 12 volt power to the VHF. Go up on the Garmin site, find the GPSMAP 700 series, and download the installation instructions. It will show you how to make the connections. + +http://support.garmin.com/support/manuals/manuals.htm?partNo=010-00835-04" +"Does anyone have experience with the latest Yamaha F4 thru F70 fuel hose connector recall? I'm not using a Yamaha tank but that doesn't necessarily mean the connector doesn't need recall. Also, they are indicating replacement of the hose connector on the engine...things seem to be working fine.","What sort of experience are you looking for? + +Things seem to be working just fine with switches and air bags in some GM cars also.","What sort of experience are you looking for? + +Things seem to be working just fine with switches and air bags in some GM cars also.","Suggest change oil and only fill half way up the dipstick. +if the oil level climbs over use, I'd say that's your problem.+ +It will also smell like gas." +"Does anyone have experience with the latest Yamaha F4 thru F70 fuel hose connector recall? I'm not using a Yamaha tank but that doesn't necessarily mean the connector doesn't need recall. Also, they are indicating replacement of the hose connector on the engine...things seem to be working fine.","I was just wondering if anyone had actually taken it in, think I'll do it this summer","I was just wondering if anyone had actually taken it in, think I'll do it this summer",Raritan is my choice for anything id they build it... +"Hi guys I just bought my first boat and would appreciate some help. + +Boat: 1992 23.8' ProLine center console. +Engine: 2003 Yamaha 200 HPDI. Two Stroke + +here's what i think is a problem. + +I dont feel like the boat is running as fast as it should. With the throttle half way the boat is great, but from half way to full open throttle it doesnt feel like the boat goes any faster, the engine spins faster but i dont feel any advance in the speed. + +I did some research and i think my prop is too small but i am not sure. My prop size is +14 x 17. +any help would be appreciated, if you guys need pictures of the engine i would be more then happy to post some. Thank you !!","Check the Yamaha site.. picking a propeller. http://www.yamahaoutboards.com/propellers/picking-a-propeller Find a boat that is comparable to yours if yours isn't listed, match the horse power and see what dia./pitch prop has been recommended.","Check the Yamaha site.. picking a propeller. http://www.yamahaoutboards.com/propellers/picking-a-propeller Find a boat that is comparable to yours if yours isn't listed, match the horse power and see what dia./pitch prop has been recommended.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + You are hearing a click but it is not your starter.....Find and replace the slave solenoid. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks much! I'll give that a try. + +Jeff" +"The other day on lake erie my motor started to act up. As I would accelerate the.motor would try to cut out once I hit about 20mph. I would have to put the control back into neutral and try again to try to fix the problem. This worked less than half the time. My dad went in the back and took the cal off and he could manually.move the throttle with no problems and I had to steer from the console.. throttle cable bad? Sparks? There is no hesitation in the motor when my dad does it manually from the engine. Only when I try to do it with my controls.. thanks for any help, Ed","With the cowling off the engine and the engine shut off, have some observe the throttlw linkage in the engine as you advance the throttle. If I were to guess the throttle cable/linkage has come lose somewhere in there. You advance the throttle and the cable is moving lose in the engine 1/2 way with the linkage opening the throttle only 1/2 way. As you move back to neutral, the linkage closes the throttle 1/2 way and the cable moves the other 1/2 way. The throttle cable should be fastened to a fixed point somewhere such that when the throttle is advanced, there is no movement of the cable.. only the linkage that is attached to the throttle.","With the cowling off the engine and the engine shut off, have some observe the throttlw linkage in the engine as you advance the throttle. If I were to guess the throttle cable/linkage has come lose somewhere in there. You advance the throttle and the cable is moving lose in the engine 1/2 way with the linkage opening the throttle only 1/2 way. As you move back to neutral, the linkage closes the throttle 1/2 way and the cable moves the other 1/2 way. The throttle cable should be fastened to a fixed point somewhere such that when the throttle is advanced, there is no movement of the cable.. only the linkage that is attached to the throttle.","Hmmm...food for thought. Older Johnson's, an '80 115 and a '90 150 hp. Both run pretty hard (full throttle) much of the time. I guess these would be out of the realm of basic tranportation. That would be my '77 20 Merc. So, I guess I'll spend more on oil, and hopefully less on repairs." +"I have a Yamaha 225 HP 2-stroke V6 outboard engine from 1990-1993. +The automatic primer sometimes engages even when the motor is warm and thus flooding it to a stop. +Could it be that the solenoids get power even when they should not? Or is it something with the primer itself? + + +Regards +Peter","If you squeeze the primer ball does it get hard or can you keep squeezing fuel through it? If you can keep squeezing fuel through it, you have a bad fuel pump and it will flood the engine and cause it to stall.","If you squeeze the primer ball does it get hard or can you keep squeezing fuel through it? If you can keep squeezing fuel through it, you have a bad fuel pump and it will flood the engine and cause it to stall.","Re: 20LG missing on #2 Cylinder UPDATE!! + +I have a 1989 Yamaha 2 stroke 20 Hp that is misfiring. I got this engine from a lady who told me her grandfather bought it new, used it several times then passed away and it sat until now. Here is what I have done: + +-Cleaned out tank and lines, changed fuel filter. +- installed new plugs (two sets) +-removed carbs cleaned them completely, they were not dirty at all. + +Tried starting, ran, but a bit rough. Took it out for a run on my boat ran ok for 15 minutes and then dropped cylinder.#2 cylinder misfiring, pull that plug cap and engine hardly changes, but pull #1 plug cap and it dies immediately. + +Since then: + +-checked plug caps and wires, they are like new. Ohms check on caps OK +-swapped coils around and problem remained with #2 cylinder +- swapped out plugs +- tried different tank with known good one +- checked timing both #1 and #2 both good +- checked both coils with meter +- removed flywheel and inspected charge coil and trigger coils, again like new and checked with meter....ohms check. +- rebuilt fuel pump, no change. +- removed carbs and cleaned again. +- checked all wiring connections a good. +- removed flywheel and swapped trigger coils around, no change. + + +This leads me to believe that the CDI box may be buggered. + +Please help" +"I have a Yamaha 225 HP 2-stroke V6 outboard engine from 1990-1993. +The automatic primer sometimes engages even when the motor is warm and thus flooding it to a stop. +Could it be that the solenoids get power even when they should not? Or is it something with the primer itself? + + +Regards +Peter","Chris, + +Thanks for the hint. It seems like I can keep squeezing but 95% of a season the motor runs fine. No start problems. +I have actually connected two light bulbs, one to each solenoid for the primer and when the motor floods next time I will have a look at the bulbs. If anyone is lit then I know it's the thermo sensor that gives a false signal. If none of the bulbs are lit then the problem lies within the primer. + +Again, thanks + +Regards +Peter","Chris, + +Thanks for the hint. It seems like I can keep squeezing but 95% of a season the motor runs fine. No start problems. +I have actually connected two light bulbs, one to each solenoid for the primer and when the motor floods next time I will have a look at the bulbs. If anyone is lit then I know it's the thermo sensor that gives a false signal. If none of the bulbs are lit then the problem lies within the primer. + +Again, thanks + +Regards +Peter",Synchronize your throttle valves they should all be closed at idle and the TPS volts should be 0.48 to 0.52 . your oil pump arm should be up against the stop on the oil pump . Yamaha does not recommend you bleed the oil running it on a premixed tank as this model the oil pump feeds the VST and the cylinders at the same time .When you have got your throttle valves correct with the TPS volts then disconnect the oil pump link arm and move the oil pump arm by hand to its fully opened position while its idling this will bleed it. +"I have a Yamaha 225 HP 2-stroke V6 outboard engine from 1990-1993. +The automatic primer sometimes engages even when the motor is warm and thus flooding it to a stop. +Could it be that the solenoids get power even when they should not? Or is it something with the primer itself? + + +Regards +Peter","Not the primer, the fuel pumps.","Not the primer, the fuel pumps.","Thank you for the detailed response! + +After tracing more wiring I found a bad connection on the fuse block for the ignition fuse. It gets hot enough to burn your hand and appears to be where that volt is lost with the key on. All accessories are wired separately on the fuse block. The only thing that draws anything significant is the ignition coil. + +The grounds on the block are in good condition and I don't believe this boat has seen any salt water. The wiring harness didn't show much for voltage drops and looks to be in very good condition. It may have been replaced by a previous owner. + +Thanks again!!" +"I have a Yamaha 225 HP 2-stroke V6 outboard engine from 1990-1993. +The automatic primer sometimes engages even when the motor is warm and thus flooding it to a stop. +Could it be that the solenoids get power even when they should not? Or is it something with the primer itself? + + +Regards +Peter","Chris, after replacing fuel lines and primer ball along with the fuel filter there's no leakage. The primer ball tells the system is full. However, it seems like the fuel pumps are faulty but not saturating the engine according to your suggestion but instead not giving it enough fuel. Pumping the primer ball will make it run again. I have ordered new membrans to the two fuel pumps. Hopefully a replacement of those will sort this problem out. Regards Peter","Chris, after replacing fuel lines and primer ball along with the fuel filter there's no leakage. The primer ball tells the system is full. However, it seems like the fuel pumps are faulty but not saturating the engine according to your suggestion but instead not giving it enough fuel. Pumping the primer ball will make it run again. I have ordered new membrans to the two fuel pumps. Hopefully a replacement of those will sort this problem out. Regards Peter",Only thing to suggest is to try another stop button. That or just pull the lanyard each time in lieu of pressing the button. +Hey everyone new to this forum have my first question I have a 1994 Yamaha 6hp 2stroke short shaft was wondering how to set the timing on it thanks for any input,"What timing are you going to set ?,ignition timing ? because 2 stroke doesn't have valve timing. + +wajira","What timing are you going to set ?,ignition timing ? because 2 stroke doesn't have valve timing. + +wajira","Yes, there are four wires in the harness to the remote oil tank. One pair for the electric oil pump ground. The other pair for the sensor switch ground. + +The ground for the pump is apparently good since you say that when you apply that ground the pump runs. What is unknown is if the other ground for the sensor switch is reaching the CDI. + +The sensor switch is there to prevent the remote tank from running completely out of oil without the user knowing it. With sufficient oil in the tank the switch will be closed. Ground applied to the CDI. CDI will command automatic transfer of oil. Up until the point that the float switch drops to a low oil level. The switch then opens. No more ground to the CDI. Auto transfer function is terminated. When the main tank gets low (because no more auto transfer of oil) the alarm sounds. Assume there is no spare oil in the boat. The user can now force the pump to run pumping what oil remains in the remote tank to the main tank. He best start heading for home." +Hey everyone new to this forum have my first question I have a 1994 Yamaha 6hp 2stroke short shaft was wondering how to set the timing on it thanks for any input,I'm guessing so the motor wouldn't start has good compression getting spark and gas was running and cut it off then wouldn't start again I put new plugs in it so my uncle said check the timing?,I'm guessing so the motor wouldn't start has good compression getting spark and gas was running and cut it off then wouldn't start again I put new plugs in it so my uncle said check the timing?,Go to your local RV service center for advise.----------------Very common with the camping crowd.-------Every day stuff for those folks. +Hey everyone new to this forum have my first question I have a 1994 Yamaha 6hp 2stroke short shaft was wondering how to set the timing on it thanks for any input,"you can check the ignition timing, but for the you need ignition timing light ignition timing at idle BTDC 5' +- 3' . + +How plugs are look like ? may be fuel mixture is not correct.","you can check the ignition timing, but for the you need ignition timing light ignition timing at idle BTDC 5' +- 3' . + +How plugs are look like ? may be fuel mixture is not correct.",Before you order a sensor check the connector on the main oil tank. Unplug the connector and first pull on each wire . If you find a broken wire at the pin you could push out the wire or pin .You have to release the pin before pushing it out. I had the same problem with the engine tank going down and the alarm sounding. I found the wire broken just behind the pin. I just soldiered the wire back on and was able to insert the pin again. Good luck. +"I need help to determine which Yamaha model is same as my Mariner 5hp and get an owners/service manual + +Mariner 5hp s/n 5M 6e3 s 125028. Any idea of the year (mid 1980's I believe) + +This model mariner is absent on all websites and posts from years ago all are requesting what year and where can I get an owners manual? + +The motor says made in Japan and I have a Yamaha 2p/3p/4p manual for my 2hp and the drawings of the 4p look identical to my mariner (same choke/kill but/gear shift). + +It seems like these Mariners are a huge mystery! + +Please someone set me straight or send me in the right direction. + +I have been on the Mercury/Mariner forum with no replies. + +Thanks",A Yamaha USA 5MSHS is going to be the closest to your model motor.,A Yamaha USA 5MSHS is going to be the closest to your model motor.,"boscoe said: + + + + what is the complete model of your motor? There was no 250txrd provided by yamaha usa in 2005. + +A 250txrd would be a two stroke carburetted model. A two stroke carburetted 250 hp model was not available in the usa. I am guessing that you have a z250txrd or a vz250txrd. Why is it so hard to type those extra letters? + +The z250txrd and the vz250txrd have an ecu. Similar, but different, to cdi. The brains of the motor. From the automatic oil transfer system standpoint they work the same. From 1996 and later that is. + +Click to expand... + + +z250txrd hpdi" +"I need help to determine which Yamaha model is same as my Mariner 5hp and get an owners/service manual + +Mariner 5hp s/n 5M 6e3 s 125028. Any idea of the year (mid 1980's I believe) + +This model mariner is absent on all websites and posts from years ago all are requesting what year and where can I get an owners manual? + +The motor says made in Japan and I have a Yamaha 2p/3p/4p manual for my 2hp and the drawings of the 4p look identical to my mariner (same choke/kill but/gear shift). + +It seems like these Mariners are a huge mystery! + +Please someone set me straight or send me in the right direction. + +I have been on the Mercury/Mariner forum with no replies. + +Thanks",thanks. I will try and find a manual.,thanks. I will try and find a manual.,"you need to check for 12v + at the starter/solenoid, if nothing there then check the battery cables," +"I’m looking for some help/advise. I have a Suzuki DT25 that I have removed the oil injection from. Basically I unbolted and removed the oiler and pump shaft and covered the hole with a block plates made to fit. + +I’ve recently picked up a 1997 Yamaha 30hp 3 cylinder that has factory oil injection on it and want to remove it as well. I’m assuming it will be a very similar process? However, I was told that I had to drill/tap the oil injection ports and plug the holes?? + +Has anyone else done this and would you mind sharing what all needs to be done?",Will carburetors behave the same with mixed fuel ?,Will carburetors behave the same with mixed fuel ?,"Ace, Good Luck." +"I’m looking for some help/advise. I have a Suzuki DT25 that I have removed the oil injection from. Basically I unbolted and removed the oiler and pump shaft and covered the hole with a block plates made to fit. + +I’ve recently picked up a 1997 Yamaha 30hp 3 cylinder that has factory oil injection on it and want to remove it as well. I’m assuming it will be a very similar process? However, I was told that I had to drill/tap the oil injection ports and plug the holes?? + +Has anyone else done this and would you mind sharing what all needs to be done?",I would assume so. I have zero problems with my Zuke. And have heard of others that have removed it from Yamaha's with no problems. In fact the 25hp 3 cylinder does not even offer oil injection.,I would assume so. I have zero problems with my Zuke. And have heard of others that have removed it from Yamaha's with no problems. In fact the 25hp 3 cylinder does not even offer oil injection.,"SoCalAngler said: + + + + Related question.... + +Whatever data the motor is able to provide via Command Link Gauge, can this SAME data be provided via a FF/GPS that is NMEA 2000 ready (ex. Lowrance 9 Elite Ti2)? + +Click to expand... + + +Yes. As annotated." +"I’m looking for some help/advise. I have a Suzuki DT25 that I have removed the oil injection from. Basically I unbolted and removed the oiler and pump shaft and covered the hole with a block plates made to fit. + +I’ve recently picked up a 1997 Yamaha 30hp 3 cylinder that has factory oil injection on it and want to remove it as well. I’m assuming it will be a very similar process? However, I was told that I had to drill/tap the oil injection ports and plug the holes?? + +Has anyone else done this and would you mind sharing what all needs to be done?","Why would you take a perfectly good system and remove it? + +Look to the future, not to the past.","Why would you take a perfectly good system and remove it? + +Look to the future, not to the past.",?----What exactly is broken.-----The shift rod screws out of the lower unit.------You have removed the pivot pin ?----You have removed the driveshaft ?----Any pictures of the broken shift rod ? +"I’m looking for some help/advise. I have a Suzuki DT25 that I have removed the oil injection from. Basically I unbolted and removed the oiler and pump shaft and covered the hole with a block plates made to fit. + +I’ve recently picked up a 1997 Yamaha 30hp 3 cylinder that has factory oil injection on it and want to remove it as well. I’m assuming it will be a very similar process? However, I was told that I had to drill/tap the oil injection ports and plug the holes?? + +Has anyone else done this and would you mind sharing what all needs to be done?","I've heard of too many people having them run too lean and causing a failure. We like to make modifications to these motors to get a little more out of them, so removing the oiler allows us to maintain a more consistent oil to fuel ratio.","I've heard of too many people having them run too lean and causing a failure. We like to make modifications to these motors to get a little more out of them, so removing the oiler allows us to maintain a more consistent oil to fuel ratio.","At this point im probably talking to a wall, however iv made progress. Pulled the carbs, cleaned again. This time with much more aggression. Like 150 psi air nozzle. Blew some sort of gunk from deep in the idle circuit. Wouldnt you know the miss at idle went away. I began to look down the throats of the carbs and noticed that #3 carb at idle was drawing fuel through the main jet while the others were not. Also the idle mixture screw doesnt seem to do anything on that carb. I have no idea what would cause that. Iv googled to the ends of the earth and used google translate to look at something written in Hindi. Nothing. If any of you guys have an idea id greatly thankful. I also reset the float heights to exactly 15mm as the book calls. Thanks guys" +"I’m looking for some help/advise. I have a Suzuki DT25 that I have removed the oil injection from. Basically I unbolted and removed the oiler and pump shaft and covered the hole with a block plates made to fit. + +I’ve recently picked up a 1997 Yamaha 30hp 3 cylinder that has factory oil injection on it and want to remove it as well. I’m assuming it will be a very similar process? However, I was told that I had to drill/tap the oil injection ports and plug the holes?? + +Has anyone else done this and would you mind sharing what all needs to be done?","I guess the simplest fix would be to order a 25hp 3 cylinder intake, since the 25hp Yamaha's did not come with oil injection. Then I would not have the oil injection ports to deal with. + +However, I have 40hp Tohatsu carb’s, I guess they would still bolt up??","I guess the simplest fix would be to order a 25hp 3 cylinder intake, since the 25hp Yamaha's did not come with oil injection. Then I would not have the oil injection ports to deal with. + +However, I have 40hp Tohatsu carb’s, I guess they would still bolt up??",Check the shifting linkage where it came apart for the lower unit removal. +"I've got a 1990 yamaha 150 with only 300 hrs on it. It ran great before I replaced it and now I'm putting it back on due to a theft. Anyways it has all new plugs wires coils, newly rebuild carbs from top to bottom, new arm that holds it in sync, now oil pump and water pump. I got it on the the boat with all the new parts and had it running great. We went out fishing and ran like a bat out of hell. The next night we went out and got about half way to my fishing spot ( about a mile ) and the thing bogged down and wouldn't exceed 1800 rpms with out shuttering like its bouncing off a rev limiter. Can anyone help? I've seen posts about it but no one tells what fixed it",Sounds suspiciously like rpm limiter related to an overheat or low oil. It is possible that your warning horn is non functional also so you aren't aware of either. Do you have an arrow on your tach indicating either?,Sounds suspiciously like rpm limiter related to an overheat or low oil. It is possible that your warning horn is non functional also so you aren't aware of either. Do you have an arrow on your tach indicating either?,Is this the HVLP gun http://www.used.forsale/hvlp-spray-gun you are talking about above? is any gun ok or is there a brand you guys like to use? +"I've got a 1990 yamaha 150 with only 300 hrs on it. It ran great before I replaced it and now I'm putting it back on due to a theft. Anyways it has all new plugs wires coils, newly rebuild carbs from top to bottom, new arm that holds it in sync, now oil pump and water pump. I got it on the the boat with all the new parts and had it running great. We went out fishing and ran like a bat out of hell. The next night we went out and got about half way to my fishing spot ( about a mile ) and the thing bogged down and wouldn't exceed 1800 rpms with out shuttering like its bouncing off a rev limiter. Can anyone help? I've seen posts about it but no one tells what fixed it","No, there isn't an arrow for the rpm. There is one above the oil level but it has always been like that and it was running great with it like that","No, there isn't an arrow for the rpm. There is one above the oil level but it has always been like that and it was running great with it like that","What type of spark plug does it take? If you look up the specs for the plug you'll get the thread diameter. + +Stuart" +"I've got a 1990 yamaha 150 with only 300 hrs on it. It ran great before I replaced it and now I'm putting it back on due to a theft. Anyways it has all new plugs wires coils, newly rebuild carbs from top to bottom, new arm that holds it in sync, now oil pump and water pump. I got it on the the boat with all the new parts and had it running great. We went out fishing and ran like a bat out of hell. The next night we went out and got about half way to my fishing spot ( about a mile ) and the thing bogged down and wouldn't exceed 1800 rpms with out shuttering like its bouncing off a rev limiter. Can anyone help? I've seen posts about it but no one tells what fixed it",I suspect that you do not have a functional warning horn. You can verify that by grounding the pink wire on your heat sensor when the key is on. You should hear the horn. Also check to see if your oil tank under the cowl is filling. If the oil level is down to the lower line you will go in to rpm reduction. If the oil transfer filter on the back of the remote tank is restricted you will fill to slowly to keep up with consumption.,I suspect that you do not have a functional warning horn. You can verify that by grounding the pink wire on your heat sensor when the key is on. You should hear the horn. Also check to see if your oil tank under the cowl is filling. If the oil level is down to the lower line you will go in to rpm reduction. If the oil transfer filter on the back of the remote tank is restricted you will fill to slowly to keep up with consumption.,"Cheap solution is roll-on truck bed liner in your favorite color. Carpeting OK if you are fine with replacing it every few years...it gets awfully funky real quick on a boat. Vinyl laminate is simply too slick for a marine installation. The slightest amount of dampness and you'll have a difficult time of it keeping your feet under you. There's a product I used on my 24' called Dura-bak. It's sorta like bed liner on steroids. It has embedded chunks of polyurethane crumble and you put it on with a special roller that they send you. It's a little bit hard on bare feet but if you have footwear it's great. The other option is to seal off the ply with several layers of epoxy and then install something like Sea-dek which is an EPDM foam with an adhesive backing. Comes in sheets. They offer cutting service if you want a professional looking installation. You create templates, send those back and they cut the parts out. +If you want the ultimate then you'll want to overlay the wood with teak and holly decking plywood. If you want the ultimate ultimate then you'll want what's known as a ""laid"" teak deck which is teak strips screwed and bunged to the substrate with seams filled with caulking. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/1518. If you're handy doing wood work it's a very nice way to finish off a boat." +"I've got a 1990 yamaha 150 with only 300 hrs on it. It ran great before I replaced it and now I'm putting it back on due to a theft. Anyways it has all new plugs wires coils, newly rebuild carbs from top to bottom, new arm that holds it in sync, now oil pump and water pump. I got it on the the boat with all the new parts and had it running great. We went out fishing and ran like a bat out of hell. The next night we went out and got about half way to my fishing spot ( about a mile ) and the thing bogged down and wouldn't exceed 1800 rpms with out shuttering like its bouncing off a rev limiter. Can anyone help? I've seen posts about it but no one tells what fixed it","PBRMAN said: + + + + I suspect that you do not have a functional warning horn. You can verify that by grounding the pink wire on your heat sensor when the key is on. You should hear the horn. Also check to see if your oil tank under the cowl is filling. If the oil level is down to the lower line you will go in to rpm reduction. If the oil transfer filter on the back of the remote tank is restricted you will fill to slowly to keep up with consumption. + +Click to expand... + + + Yes that is correct my horn is not working. There is plenty of oil in the tank and it is keeping up with consumption. However my oil low level light is on warning me of such thing but it has always been like this even when it was running great. The problem just happened out of the blue while I was on a plane about an hour On my way! To my destination and just suddenly bogged down and would not exceed the 1800 rpm.","PBRMAN said: + + + + I suspect that you do not have a functional warning horn. You can verify that by grounding the pink wire on your heat sensor when the key is on. You should hear the horn. Also check to see if your oil tank under the cowl is filling. If the oil level is down to the lower line you will go in to rpm reduction. If the oil transfer filter on the back of the remote tank is restricted you will fill to slowly to keep up with consumption. + +Click to expand... + + + Yes that is correct my horn is not working. There is plenty of oil in the tank and it is keeping up with consumption. However my oil low level light is on warning me of such thing but it has always been like this even when it was running great. The problem just happened out of the blue while I was on a plane about an hour On my way! To my destination and just suddenly bogged down and would not exceed the 1800 rpm.","Hello again, +Wanted to let anyone know, that might be interested, that the problem was the ""Trim Sender"". It was a plastic unit that was broken and would not stay tight on the tube........I got a ""Trim Sender Kit"" from the Yamaha Dealer; this one made of metal. Clamped it on the tube so extending part pushed the trim lever arm...........and now the gauge works. +Patrick" +"Can someone tell me why I have to take my F150 to dealer for oil filter change? + +It is right out side the motor and very easy to change. + +I can not find article relating to this restriction. + +I have always changed my oil filter and oil on my outboard engines. + +Thanks for info + +Nic","You don't have to take it to a dealer. You can change it yourself. You can do any maintenance on the motor of which you are capable. + +Yamaha may ""recommend"" that the motor be taken to a dealer for the filter change but remember that they are selling motors to folks that have no idea which way the point of a screw driver goes. There are some folks that can botch an oil filter change and then blame Yamaha for the problem. Yamaha wants people to own Yamaha motors when some of those people should not be allowed outside the asylum.","You don't have to take it to a dealer. You can change it yourself. You can do any maintenance on the motor of which you are capable. + +Yamaha may ""recommend"" that the motor be taken to a dealer for the filter change but remember that they are selling motors to folks that have no idea which way the point of a screw driver goes. There are some folks that can botch an oil filter change and then blame Yamaha for the problem. Yamaha wants people to own Yamaha motors when some of those people should not be allowed outside the asylum.",a www search should lead you to the Wizard Outboard forum www site - dedicated strictly to that brand name..... +"Can someone tell me why I have to take my F150 to dealer for oil filter change? + +It is right out side the motor and very easy to change. + +I can not find article relating to this restriction. + +I have always changed my oil filter and oil on my outboard engines. + +Thanks for info + +Nic","You can change all filters, oil, gear lube, impellors, zincs, etc. yourself if you are able and capable. You can service and repair anything you want on your outboard. You own it! Yamaha doesn't own it. No need to pay and wait for ""Service"" by an authorized service center which, I hate to say, can sometimes do poor job. FYI... I stopped using that grossly overpriced Yamalube years ago for oil changes... As soon as I had a good break-in on the outboard I switched to Mobile 1 Full Synthetic as many have (available in 5QT jug at Walmart). Some say it may foam, others say it doesn't have this and that and I say BS. If it can handle 15,000 RPM in a Formula 1 race car it itsnt' going to foam at 6,000 in my outboard. Get a replacement filter, some Mobile 1 FS and do it yourself. Quick and easy but remember... with a full oil change only put in as much as is recommended for your engine. The dip sticks on these engines show a wide range and so long as you are anywhere above the low end of that range you are fine. DO NOT FILL IT TO THE TOP OF YOUR DIPSTICK range as you would with a car. I think you'll find you are fully filled per the specs and find your oil level around the middle of the dip stick rage.","You can change all filters, oil, gear lube, impellors, zincs, etc. yourself if you are able and capable. You can service and repair anything you want on your outboard. You own it! Yamaha doesn't own it. No need to pay and wait for ""Service"" by an authorized service center which, I hate to say, can sometimes do poor job. FYI... I stopped using that grossly overpriced Yamalube years ago for oil changes... As soon as I had a good break-in on the outboard I switched to Mobile 1 Full Synthetic as many have (available in 5QT jug at Walmart). Some say it may foam, others say it doesn't have this and that and I say BS. If it can handle 15,000 RPM in a Formula 1 race car it itsnt' going to foam at 6,000 in my outboard. Get a replacement filter, some Mobile 1 FS and do it yourself. Quick and easy but remember... with a full oil change only put in as much as is recommended for your engine. The dip sticks on these engines show a wide range and so long as you are anywhere above the low end of that range you are fine. DO NOT FILL IT TO THE TOP OF YOUR DIPSTICK range as you would with a car. I think you'll find you are fully filled per the specs and find your oil level around the middle of the dip stick rage.","A light coating is normal in that area,There are no air filters, Check your oil injection hoses for security" +"I have a 1998 yamaha 115 v4, i found a 1996 130v4, is the blocks the same? The 130 has a piston gone and damaged cylinder. Would just a carb swap make my 115 a 130 hp. Thanks","yes both the block is same,displacement is 1730 cm3, i think you can swap it. + +wajira","yes both the block is same,displacement is 1730 cm3, i think you can swap it. + +wajira","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + If the fuse is blowing as soon as you install it, this will be easy to find. Problem is, it is not in front of me and you will need to do the exploration. Put a light bulb in place of the fuse, Start unplugging things, when the light goes out you are close. + +Click to expand... + + +Another reason EVERYONE should purchase and learn how to use a cheap multimeter!" +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 200hp 2 stroke and went out to fireworks last night and all worked well. had some battery cable issues (corrosion) earlier and replaced with good connectors. Fireworks over she started right up. No waked to the Tiki Bar in Rye and tied up to the dock. when it was time to leave engine wouldn't crack. just a whir from the starter (would not pop up and engage the flywheel). Running lights, fish finder, radio, engine tilt all work fine. Is there still corrosion on a battery cable I might have missed or is it time for a new starter?","Probably a stuck 'bendix' on the starter. You can take the starter off and clean the bendix if it is just a bit of dirt, but it may also be broken, so depends what you find. A quick squirt of CRC, WD40 etc may get you going if it is just a bit dirty, but if you do that, take the starter off and clean the bendix afterwards as you don't want to leave it oily.","Probably a stuck 'bendix' on the starter. You can take the starter off and clean the bendix if it is just a bit of dirt, but it may also be broken, so depends what you find. A quick squirt of CRC, WD40 etc may get you going if it is just a bit dirty, but if you do that, take the starter off and clean the bendix afterwards as you don't want to leave it oily.","Check Engine Light +Diagnostic Trouble Codes +Remote Control + +I would check all battery connections including the battery switches.... And the Hub Power connection." +"I have a 2003 Yamaha 200hp 2 stroke and went out to fireworks last night and all worked well. had some battery cable issues (corrosion) earlier and replaced with good connectors. Fireworks over she started right up. No waked to the Tiki Bar in Rye and tied up to the dock. when it was time to leave engine wouldn't crack. just a whir from the starter (would not pop up and engage the flywheel). Running lights, fish finder, radio, engine tilt all work fine. Is there still corrosion on a battery cable I might have missed or is it time for a new starter?","aliboy said: + + + + Probably a stuck 'bendix' on the starter. You can take the starter off and clean the bendix if it is just a bit of dirt, but it may also be broken, so depends what you find. A quick squirt of CRC, WD40 etc may get you going if it is just a bit dirty, but if you do that, take the starter off and clean the bendix afterwards as you don't want to leave it oily. + +Click to expand... + +Thank you for your reply. I've removed the starter and disassembled it. looks like it needs new brushes. Do you know the best place to get a rebuild kit?","aliboy said: + + + + Probably a stuck 'bendix' on the starter. You can take the starter off and clean the bendix if it is just a bit of dirt, but it may also be broken, so depends what you find. A quick squirt of CRC, WD40 etc may get you going if it is just a bit dirty, but if you do that, take the starter off and clean the bendix afterwards as you don't want to leave it oily. + +Click to expand... + +Thank you for your reply. I've removed the starter and disassembled it. looks like it needs new brushes. Do you know the best place to get a rebuild kit?",Clean bottom carburetor.--------Inspect fuel pump diaphragm.------------Inspect reeds on # 3 while carburetor is off. +"Hello everyone new to the forum and Yamaha ownership. This past weekend purchased a used center console with a 1988 Yamaha outboard model # 90ETLG serial # 465761. Motor runs great no issues there, however the two main gauges in the console have issues. Gauge on the left is a LCD speedometer/fuel/hour meter and the gauge on the right is tach/trim/volts ? . The speedo does not work at all meaning with the key on I hit the mode button and nothing happens. The tach works as does the trim but the tach LCD is VERY difficult to read I believe it is sun faded or just wearing out. Is there any way to repair these items or do they have to be replaced ? +The trim/tilt question. I had the seller demonstrate that the trim/tilt worked and it worked fine using the trim button on the outboard and the one on the throttle. Trailered her home tried it once in the driveway and it worked. Came out to the garage the next day and a small amount of fluid on the garage floor. Looked like it leaked out of trim area. Now the trim/tilt doesn't work, meaning I can hear the motor/pump turning but no movement. It may be low on fluid. When looking at the stern of the boat from the motor side it looks like the reservoir is on the left with a large phillips head screw is that where the fluid is put in ? And use Dexron II transmission fluid ? The boat has sat since October of last year and may have been stored in the upright position ( with pressure on it ) . Sorry my first post is so long be kind to a newbie",I went back out to the garage and looked at the trim/tilt again. Looking at the transom from the outboard motor side there are two pump/cylinder looking items. The one on the right has a hex bolt maybe halfway up the one on the left has the phillips head screw. Is the hex where the fluid is filled and the phillips where you bleed the system ?,I went back out to the garage and looked at the trim/tilt again. Looking at the transom from the outboard motor side there are two pump/cylinder looking items. The one on the right has a hex bolt maybe halfway up the one on the left has the phillips head screw. Is the hex where the fluid is filled and the phillips where you bleed the system ?,H??ave you looked in shop manual yet for a diagram +"Hi all +Can any one give me an exact or rough idea of the age of this motor? Does it have elec or manuel trim/tilt? +Also are there any problems i should be aware of, or is it a solid motor. +I have emailed the seller on ebay but had no response as yet. +Cheers","http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151345400958?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 + +here is the link","http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151345400958?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 + +here is the link","Hex nut should be tightened down onto the ""locker"" and the cable underneath the locker." +"I am having 2 issues. 1st issue motor cranks and runs perfect until it gets warmed up. Then when I go to idle down a bit, it wants to spit and sputter and shut off. Once it's off its very hard to get started. Almost like it's flooded or choke is sticking. 2nd issue tilt trim motor just clicks up and down. I can tap the motor itself and get it to work. Then it goes back to just clicking. Replace brushes maybe? Any help would be greatly appreciatted.","You either need to work on your trim motor or replace it. Probably got some moisture in there doing it's thing. Your motor is EFI, no choke. Have you ever had your injectors cleand? Fuel system serviced? You may need to see your dealer.","You either need to work on your trim motor or replace it. Probably got some moisture in there doing it's thing. Your motor is EFI, no choke. Have you ever had your injectors cleand? Fuel system serviced? You may need to see your dealer.",When the level gets low check the wires from the sensor to the pump and see if you have power. Also check to see if you have power to the small tank sensor as that is basically just a switch +"I recently bought another boat, had problems with the carbs, and discovered they needed a good cleaning. I’ve read over and over again to use an ultrasonic cleaner. The carbs on my Yamaha F90 have a dozen or so openings and passageways so I finally decided to break down and buy one. + +It’s been hard to find a lot details on using an Ultrasonic Cleaner in one place, so I’m posting this info for anyone who may find it useful. A number of people have helped me along my journey, so I’m hoping someone else can use this information. Use it at your own risk. It’s only one opinion and it’s also my first time using an ultrasonic cleaner to clean carburetors. + +I decided on a Solid Tech 6L ultrasonic cleaner with 150 watts of cleaning power and 200 watts of heating power. It actually only holds about 5 quarts of solution and sells for $229 on eBay. My Yamaha F90 carbs have a primer starter assembly on carbs 1 and 3 and I wanted a basket big enough to be able to do at least one completely disassembled carburetor at a time. + +I bought a small round fine mesh stainless steel sink strainer for $1 at Family Dollar. I hung it inside the larger basket with cable ties to hold the jets, drain screw, float valve seat and SS screws. + +SharperTek makes a solution called 1220 Degreaser/Carburetor Cleaner for $45-65 per gallon and a Shellac Buster for $175 for 5 gallons, specifically for cleaning carburetors. I wanted a cheaper alternative and did a lot of internet surfing and found several sites and outboard motor forums that said a 50% solution of Simple Green and Distilled Water was a good mix for cleaning carburetors. I wasn’t really very happy with the results but this is the first time I’ve used an ultrasonic cleaner as well. I used Brakleen and CRC Carb Cleaner on my previous carb rebuild on a Honda 50 but those carbs don’t have half the openings my carbs for the Yamaha F90 have. + +I degassed each of the test solutions I used by running them in the ultrasonic cleaner for 15 minutes before putting a carb in for an actual cleaning cycle. + +CARB 1 – I tried a 25% Simple Green and 75% distilled water solution for 20 minutes and wasn’t really happy with the results. I went to a 50% solution of Simple Green and distilled water for two more 30 minute cycles. The 50% solution did a better job of cleaning, but it also turned the aluminum a darker mottled shade of gray. I thoroughly rinsed the parts in hot water. There was still a tint of black inside the carburetor throat that could be wiped off with your finger. I blew Brakleen through all the holes and dried them with compressed air. Several hours later I noticed there was a spotted soap like powder residue left from the Simple Green on all the parts. It was inside the carb, float bowl, primer assy, etc. The Simple Green solutions did not damage any rubber goods (o-rings, seals, jet caps, etc.). + +Overall, I wasn’t very happy with the results I got using Simple Green, but it’s possible a 50% mix is too strong or I had them in the solution too long between the two batches of Simple Green solutions and 3 cleaning cycles. I did pull the basket out of the solution and rinsed everything off in hot water when waiting in between cleaning cycles so I didn’t damage the cleaner the first day. I have read that certain materials can be attacked if left in certain cleaning solutions too long, like aluminum in an ammonia based solution. + +CARB 2 – I tried an 11% mix of LA’s Totally Awesome all-purpose concentrated cleaner, degreaser and spot remover. It’s more environment friendly, can be dumped in your septic system, and is available at Walmart and most of the Dollar stores. I bought 64 ounces for $3 at Family Dollar. It’s about $1.50 for a 32 oz spray bottle of concentrate at Walmart. + +I used 14 ounces of LA’s Totally Awesome cleaner and 1 gallon of distilled water. 14 ounces was easier to measure than the 12.8 ounces I wanted for a 10% test solution. I ran Carb 2 through two 30 minute cleaning cycles with the solution heated to 120 degrees F. I didn’t run the heater any higher since the temperature builds up to 140-145 degrees during the cleaning cycle. + +All parts came out bright and clean and I didn’t need to rinse them off. I dried all the parts with compressed air, blew Brakleen through all the holes and dried again with compressed air. All the stainless steel looked better than new. The aluminum carb stayed the original color, but looked much better. The Totally Awesome solution will damage rubber, like the rubber caps for the #42 jets in my Yamaha F90 carbs. It did not harm hard plastics like the spacers for the intake manifold or cable ties. It did turn the jets on Carb 2 different shades of color though. I checked them with a 20x loupe and there isn’t any apparent damage. It may not remove a shellac buildup. I had a little bit of shellac in the bottom of the bowl, but it wiped right out with a gauze pad and some Brakleen. + +I ran Carb 1 back through the Totally Awesome solution for 30 minutes and it came out just like carb 2. I probably could have run it for a much shorter period of time but wanted to make sure there wasn’t any residue left in any of the places I can’t see. Oddly enough, the solution did NOT change the color of the jets for Carb 1. + +CARB 3 – Looked good after one 30 minute cycle. The solution did NOT change the color of the jets for Carb 3. I ran it through one more cycle just for good measure. + +CARB 4 – Looked good after one 30 minute cycle. The solution did NOT change the color of the jets for Carb 4. I ran it through one more cycle just for good measure. + +I’m very happy with the results I had using the 11% mix of LA’s Totally Awesome cleaner/degreaser. I used the same solution to clean all 4 carbs, both primer start assemblies and a few miscellaneous items. I have no idea why the color changed on the jets in Carb 2. I would definitely use this solution again. My carbs were not dirty/greasy so I don’t know how well it does with grease or built up sludge. + +I haven’t found anything that specifies an on time and off time for my ultrasonic cleaner. The user’s manual is a whopping 7 pages and only says not to run it continuously for more than 1 hour. I ran an initial 15 minute degas to get any air bubbles out of the solution, waited 20 minutes, ran a 30 minute cleaning cycle, waited 30 minutes and ran another 30 minute cleaning cycle. I waited a 1-2 hours in between carbs but don’t know if it’s necessary or if it’s not long enough. Just being a little cautious. + +I definitely think it was worth the trouble. It did a really good job of cleaning the hard to get to places. I hope this helps someone who wants to make the leap. Feel free to email me at [email protected] if you have any questions I might be able to help you with. + +Bob Murry +Cape Coral, FL",Now you need a balancer.,Now you need a balancer.,That primer unit is an electric valve that opens to put fuel into the carburetor throat via those wee hoses.----Check those hoses for leaks.----Possibly the hose from the fuel pump that supplies that primer is leaking.---Or the primer itself has a leaking o-ring on it.----Should be an easy fix.-----Engine should be cranking when you push in the key !! +"I have a 75hp EFI Yamaha and it has run fine. Yesterday it started and ran fine at about 5000 rpms. Ater 20 minuets of running as I slowed down the engine started to run rough and eventually stalled out. I was not able to immediatly start it but after about 10 minuets it started and ran fine again. At the end of the day as I was pulling into the dock it did the same thing and I noticed what appeared to be a film of gas on the water. Thanks, Any ideas would be appreciated.","It could be something simple but it might be a blown thermostat and your motor is running cold thereby collecting condensate in the crankcase until it pushes into the intake via the crankcase vent. Check your oil and if it is high and emulsified change the t-stat, oil, filter run 10 min change again. run and hour and change again. Monitor closely. +Then again your vst maybe flooding or your lift pump may have a leaking diaphragm.","It could be something simple but it might be a blown thermostat and your motor is running cold thereby collecting condensate in the crankcase until it pushes into the intake via the crankcase vent. Check your oil and if it is high and emulsified change the t-stat, oil, filter run 10 min change again. run and hour and change again. Monitor closely. +Then again your vst maybe flooding or your lift pump may have a leaking diaphragm.","john allen said: + + + + Thanks for the help + +Click to expand... + + +Ran the factory manual test for the CDI box. It completely failed the test three times. So again, Thank you John" +"I bought a new Yamaha trim motor and while installing the motor there is a spring that doesn't seem to fit correctly that was on the old motor between the pump housing and the motor, it just kind of sits on top of that housing, doesn't really seem to fit in any specific position. In the parts diagram it is spring part 6h1-4385h-00-00. I pulled the old, very rusty motor off and the spring is just laying kind of lopsided on top of the housing in the hydrolic oil. Also as hard as I tried some small rust particals fell into the opening. I picked a few small particals out but wonder if I should pull the whole unit and flush it upside down? Looked simple but what a PAIN, plus the rear left bolt is all but IMPOSSIBLE to get a socket on because it is right under the motor bracket. + +banjomaniac","OK, I had to order the filter, nobody within 100 miles had it. Now, if you are going to replace your trim motor on a similar model as mine, pull the tilt trim off the boat. I didn't know this and it is a pretty easy job to pull it off. I had to pull the spring apart or kind of un wind it and it will fit around the edges of the screws, I'll add a picture of the spring the way it was when I pulled off the old rusted motor. I will post more when the filter gets here and I put it all back together, I'm going to flush out that area below the +pump motor that the filter disintegrated in and might have gotten some rust in from the old motor. Also, the main ram cap is corroded to the point the dust seal is just falling off, and that cap isn't available as a separate part, have to spend hundreds on a new tilt piston sub assembly, what a rip off. Until it gives me problems, I'm just gonna keep grease on that main cap and the rod and it might never leak","OK, I had to order the filter, nobody within 100 miles had it. Now, if you are going to replace your trim motor on a similar model as mine, pull the tilt trim off the boat. I didn't know this and it is a pretty easy job to pull it off. I had to pull the spring apart or kind of un wind it and it will fit around the edges of the screws, I'll add a picture of the spring the way it was when I pulled off the old rusted motor. I will post more when the filter gets here and I put it all back together, I'm going to flush out that area below the +pump motor that the filter disintegrated in and might have gotten some rust in from the old motor. Also, the main ram cap is corroded to the point the dust seal is just falling off, and that cap isn't available as a separate part, have to spend hundreds on a new tilt piston sub assembly, what a rip off. Until it gives me problems, I'm just gonna keep grease on that main cap and the rod and it might never leak","I'm not familiar with your exact set up. I had a time where I was at the fuel dock and I was ready to leave, but one engine wouldn't start - the starter solenoid didn't even click. Turns out the gear control lever was not exactly in neutral. Could it be something like that on yours?" +"I bought a new Yamaha trim motor and while installing the motor there is a spring that doesn't seem to fit correctly that was on the old motor between the pump housing and the motor, it just kind of sits on top of that housing, doesn't really seem to fit in any specific position. In the parts diagram it is spring part 6h1-4385h-00-00. I pulled the old, very rusty motor off and the spring is just laying kind of lopsided on top of the housing in the hydrolic oil. Also as hard as I tried some small rust particals fell into the opening. I picked a few small particals out but wonder if I should pull the whole unit and flush it upside down? Looked simple but what a PAIN, plus the rear left bolt is all but IMPOSSIBLE to get a socket on because it is right under the motor bracket. + +banjomaniac","Bummer. ""If mechanicking was fun everybody would be doing it"" said a famous tech. That grease is a good idea. I do from day one.","Bummer. ""If mechanicking was fun everybody would be doing it"" said a famous tech. That grease is a good idea. I do from day one.","The 43C cables require an adapter kit to work with the Morse SR controls. This mid 70's Bertram uses what appears to be 3/8"" brass key stock with a 1/4-28 up one end and the cross hole at the other, 2"" long. The cross hole is now sloppy, there are some 12 of these on the boat. PHone call to Teleflex did not prove fruitful, but these will be easy to make at a machine shop." +"I recently sold my 02 Honda 225 and purchased an 06 Yamaha F150TXR. The Honda had a poorly designed mid-shaft bushing which was water lubricated (and also silt and sand lubricated if you happened to operate in shallow water) and prone to failure, even destroying the middle casing on some engines. Since I am new to Yamahas, I was wondering if the Yamaha design is any better than the Hondas'? How is the Yamaha bushing lubricated and what is the reliability of this part? TIA",Same crap different engine.,Same crap different engine.,"lander12 said: + + + + Your UTube link does not seem to work. The dot between tu and be may be the problem. + +Why did you change your impeller back in July? Was it to correct a problem similar to your present one? + +Click to expand... + + +Lander12, try this link here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INKxpviiKJc" +"I recently sold my 02 Honda 225 and purchased an 06 Yamaha F150TXR. The Honda had a poorly designed mid-shaft bushing which was water lubricated (and also silt and sand lubricated if you happened to operate in shallow water) and prone to failure, even destroying the middle casing on some engines. Since I am new to Yamahas, I was wondering if the Yamaha design is any better than the Hondas'? How is the Yamaha bushing lubricated and what is the reliability of this part? TIA","Yamaha offers a water resistant grease with which the bushing and the drive shaft needs to be lubricated yearly or every 100 hours, whichever occurs first. + +If the bushing fails then it is fairly simple to remove and replace it with a new one. Never heard of a Yamaha drive shaft bushing issue failing the mid-section. + +If one does maintenance as one is supposed to the bushing issue is all but a moot point.","Yamaha offers a water resistant grease with which the bushing and the drive shaft needs to be lubricated yearly or every 100 hours, whichever occurs first. + +If the bushing fails then it is fairly simple to remove and replace it with a new one. Never heard of a Yamaha drive shaft bushing issue failing the mid-section. + +If one does maintenance as one is supposed to the bushing issue is all but a moot point.",You do not want to charge the 24v batteries with the motor. The ignition switch and bilge pump are normally separate from the accy circuit. switch the guages from the ignition switch and run the lights and accessories from a dedicated accy circuit. If you have to pull two wires from the start battery 8g tinned wire to the fuse block. Put a inline fuse at the battery positive to the accy switch for the fuse block. You can never have too many fuses so fuse all the accys individually and put a light for accy power on the dash so you dont leave it on by mistake. +"I recently sold my 02 Honda 225 and purchased an 06 Yamaha F150TXR. The Honda had a poorly designed mid-shaft bushing which was water lubricated (and also silt and sand lubricated if you happened to operate in shallow water) and prone to failure, even destroying the middle casing on some engines. Since I am new to Yamahas, I was wondering if the Yamaha design is any better than the Hondas'? How is the Yamaha bushing lubricated and what is the reliability of this part? TIA",Well said boscoe. Just a little maintenance! Doesn't everyone service the water pump yearly?,Well said boscoe. Just a little maintenance! Doesn't everyone service the water pump yearly?,Has any one ever used a product called zing it was recomended at a boat shop i went to i have a fiberglass boat and i have brown missisipi river stains on my boat and this zing has acid in it i just want to make sure it will not hurt my fiberglass it says it is safe for it but i would like some expert opinions. +"can anyone give me a quick how to on flush mount control removal. I have removed the handle, plastic bezel and 3 screws on the aluminum piece behind the plastic bezel. The panel it is attached to is supposed to simply slide up, but I cannot remove the round aluminum piece behind the bezel. Are there attaching screws from behind? Thanks in advance Brian",What control box type is it? By brand and model.,What control box type is it? By brand and model.,Looks like all of that is in the gear pump. Ughhhhhh. I have heard not to take those apart as more issues than you have will arise......... +"can anyone give me a quick how to on flush mount control removal. I have removed the handle, plastic bezel and 3 screws on the aluminum piece behind the plastic bezel. The panel it is attached to is supposed to simply slide up, but I cannot remove the round aluminum piece behind the bezel. Are there attaching screws from behind? Thanks in advance Brian","Sorry forgot to add that its a Yamaha 6xo-48206-12-00, after scraping off all the corrosion and removing the plastic insert I found 4 more screws--- as long as I can get the screws out I should be ok. Thanks for your reply, much appreciated","Sorry forgot to add that its a Yamaha 6xo-48206-12-00, after scraping off all the corrosion and removing the plastic insert I found 4 more screws--- as long as I can get the screws out I should be ok. Thanks for your reply, much appreciated","I know the feeling my boat has a Johnson outboard motor, it has it right on the cover, but the engine was made by Suzuki. I finally found my manual on iboat.com" +"Hello + +Does someone know if the Yamaha F8 has a rev limiter? I had to change the prop to a lower pitch one, because I wasn't reaching the optimal RPM level when the boat was loaded. But unloaded, I measure 6200 rpm on WOT which looks pretty high. + +Best Regards + +Daniel","laslo105 said: + + + + Hello + +Does someone know if the Yamaha F8 has a rev limiter? I had to change the prop to a lower pitch one, because I wasn't reaching the optimal RPM level when the boat was loaded. But unloaded, I measure 6200 rpm on WOT which looks pretty high. + +Best Regards + +Daniel + +Click to expand... + + + +Has been solved. Rev Limiter is about 6200","laslo105 said: + + + + Hello + +Does someone know if the Yamaha F8 has a rev limiter? I had to change the prop to a lower pitch one, because I wasn't reaching the optimal RPM level when the boat was loaded. But unloaded, I measure 6200 rpm on WOT which looks pretty high. + +Best Regards + +Daniel + +Click to expand... + + + +Has been solved. Rev Limiter is about 6200","wilsonpie said: + + + + Did you get resolved? I have the exact same problem on a 2006 115TXR. + +Click to expand... + + +A 115TXR is a completely separate animal from the OP's F115." +"I have a 2000 40hp 2-stroke Yamaha outboard. The trim sender had truely stuck in the down position. I got it to work a little bit, but not enoght for the spring to be able to shift it back. +Picked up a new one on ebay, installed it, and behold it works, but here is the problem. My Faria trim gauge is not correct for the sender since it has been changed (the ohm values). +The new one have a range from 72 ohm to 225 ohm. This means the guage never it up, and goes to far into ""down"" + +Can any help with the year of the trim sensor, so I can find a new gauge. The old sensor from Yamaha is.... please sit down....600$. I live in europe. + +Hope somone can help.",Without your complete model identity is will be difficult if not impossible for anyone to help you.,Without your complete model identity is will be difficult if not impossible for anyone to help you.,Should have mentioned. It did it at first for a short time. Tried key and it fired up. Ran a little farther and didi it again. Stayed dead for about 25 miles then tried it again. Had power cranked up and ran another couple miles and hit a wave. Shut down and hasn't come back to life since. +"I have a 2000 40hp 2-stroke Yamaha outboard. The trim sender had truely stuck in the down position. I got it to work a little bit, but not enoght for the spring to be able to shift it back. +Picked up a new one on ebay, installed it, and behold it works, but here is the problem. My Faria trim gauge is not correct for the sender since it has been changed (the ohm values). +The new one have a range from 72 ohm to 225 ohm. This means the guage never it up, and goes to far into ""down"" + +Can any help with the year of the trim sensor, so I can find a new gauge. The old sensor from Yamaha is.... please sit down....600$. I live in europe. + +Hope somone can help.","Thx,boscoe + +It is called 40Y is the same as 50Y from the year 2000","Thx,boscoe + +It is called 40Y is the same as 50Y from the year 2000","So the engine can be started with fuel sprayed into the air intake, but it doesn't remain running. Also, the YDS stationary injector test fails for all injectors. I wouldn't suspect both injector drivers failed independently. If the repair manual doesn't tell you how to test them, it might still give the spec on output peak voltage (which you can measure while cranking it). + +When you turn the key to the On position, can you hear the fuel pump whirr and prime the system? If the stationary injector test fails for all injectors and you don't hear the fuel pump turn on, I would suspect a bad relay, fuse or wiring harness. I'm not sure how the fuses are grouped on your engine, but the manual should tell you. On my little F50, I have one fuse that groups the ECM, ignition coil, electric fuel pump, fuel injector, idle speed control, and the vapor separator. If your ignition coils and injectors are on the same fuse, then I would say that's not your problem (though you can check it for continuity anyway), because the engine wouldn't fire up when spraying fuel into the air intake if the ignition coil wasn't getting power. So in that case, I'd move on to checking the fuel pump relay(s). Then the wiring harness. + +If all that looks good, then I would test the output peak voltage of the ECM and the pulser coil. The manual should have steps/specs for that." +I bought this boat and it was all like new. 1998 model motor. put a new water pump in it and it would not pump with the flusher on the lower unit. pulled the screen off the lower unit where the water intake is suppose to be and there is no hole anywhere behind the screen. It will take water in a little weep hole on the lower unit about 4 inches from the screen. I put the boat in the water and it pumps OK. Is this normal or did the factory not drill out a hole behind the intake screen? Thanks for any input. Skipper,"Should be a decent sized inlet, try removing the LU, water pump & lower plate and blow compressed air down the rectangular section leading down to the inlet, it's probably blocked. +That little hole is backup, I think it's only just sufficient at idle","Should be a decent sized inlet, try removing the LU, water pump & lower plate and blow compressed air down the rectangular section leading down to the inlet, it's probably blocked. +That little hole is backup, I think it's only just sufficient at idle","From your description it sounds like you have the installation correct. Check Yandina.com for the correct wiring diagram. +I'd connect the genny output to your house bank, and let the Yandina do its thing from there. You will be drawing from those when the engines are off and you are on the genny or nothing." +"I am new to site and need some help. +I recently purchased a boat with a '88 Yamaha 30 hp motor. There was water in the gear oil. After watching some youtube videos of putting in lower unit seal kits, I decided I would try it. I built a pressure tester and pressure tested the lower unit before I did anything else to test my tester and see where the leaks are. I submerged it when pressure testing with less than 10 lbs pressure. No air leaked from the prop shaft, only a few bubbles from the drive shaft when I turned it, but air is pouring out of the housing right in front of the shift linkage. Is this normal or do I have a cracked housing (from water in it freezing?) or another issue? It is not where I expected to see air coming from. + +I have not removed the water pump housing or anything else yet. I appreciate any advice, Thanks.",There is normally a seal on the shift shaft as well. Is this what is leaking? Don't forget that you ideally should vacumm test as well. Some of the seals are holding vacuum rather than pressure.,There is normally a seal on the shift shaft as well. Is this what is leaking? Don't forget that you ideally should vacumm test as well. Some of the seals are holding vacuum rather than pressure.,Leak down the engine. +"I am new to site and need some help. +I recently purchased a boat with a '88 Yamaha 30 hp motor. There was water in the gear oil. After watching some youtube videos of putting in lower unit seal kits, I decided I would try it. I built a pressure tester and pressure tested the lower unit before I did anything else to test my tester and see where the leaks are. I submerged it when pressure testing with less than 10 lbs pressure. No air leaked from the prop shaft, only a few bubbles from the drive shaft when I turned it, but air is pouring out of the housing right in front of the shift linkage. Is this normal or do I have a cracked housing (from water in it freezing?) or another issue? It is not where I expected to see air coming from. + +I have not removed the water pump housing or anything else yet. I appreciate any advice, Thanks.","It actually looks like it is coming from in front of the shift shaft but I cant tell for sure. I will test it again out of the water and spray some soap on it and I should be able to tell. I don't see anything in the lower unit seal kit that looks like the right size for the shift shaft, is that a separate item?","It actually looks like it is coming from in front of the shift shaft but I cant tell for sure. I will test it again out of the water and spray some soap on it and I should be able to tell. I don't see anything in the lower unit seal kit that looks like the right size for the shift shaft, is that a separate item?","If the ""Standard's"" color doesn't match what you have, look for the device at the far end and then note the 'active' wire's color and amend your existing drawing...you are creating the drawing as you go so you don't have to repeat the learning exercise, right? + +the Marine grade wiring can be obtained (given enough lead time) economically thru various sources. Only change I'd suggest to CHawk's list is to get separate connectors and ""double walled"" heat shrink tubing. The 'plain' crimp ons are much cheaper than those with the tubing attached. the tubing type mentioned has an adhesive lining the inside of the 'regular' (single walled) tube that helps exclude water, moisture, and other corrosive things. Trade is that it does take more time to add the tube to each connector. Finally, use liquid neoprene to finish all the connections that you make. I've seen boats that I rewired 30 years ago and electrical problems (with the wiring) just don't exist." +"I am new to site and need some help. +I recently purchased a boat with a '88 Yamaha 30 hp motor. There was water in the gear oil. After watching some youtube videos of putting in lower unit seal kits, I decided I would try it. I built a pressure tester and pressure tested the lower unit before I did anything else to test my tester and see where the leaks are. I submerged it when pressure testing with less than 10 lbs pressure. No air leaked from the prop shaft, only a few bubbles from the drive shaft when I turned it, but air is pouring out of the housing right in front of the shift linkage. Is this normal or do I have a cracked housing (from water in it freezing?) or another issue? It is not where I expected to see air coming from. + +I have not removed the water pump housing or anything else yet. I appreciate any advice, Thanks.","Sorry, I can't tell you for that particular engine, but there is usually some sort of seal around the shift shaft.","Sorry, I can't tell you for that particular engine, but there is usually some sort of seal around the shift shaft.",What happens when engine reaches 2500 rpms?...Bog down? Sputter like its fuel starved? What happens when you squeeze the primer bulb when experiencing this issue? +"I am new to site and need some help. +I recently purchased a boat with a '88 Yamaha 30 hp motor. There was water in the gear oil. After watching some youtube videos of putting in lower unit seal kits, I decided I would try it. I built a pressure tester and pressure tested the lower unit before I did anything else to test my tester and see where the leaks are. I submerged it when pressure testing with less than 10 lbs pressure. No air leaked from the prop shaft, only a few bubbles from the drive shaft when I turned it, but air is pouring out of the housing right in front of the shift linkage. Is this normal or do I have a cracked housing (from water in it freezing?) or another issue? It is not where I expected to see air coming from. + +I have not removed the water pump housing or anything else yet. I appreciate any advice, Thanks.","yup its shift shaft leaking. I pulled it out, looked ok so I put it back in and pressure tested, no leak. Pushed it down to put in forward, no leaks. Pulled it up for reverse, seal popped loose and leaked like crazy. Plastic bumps that expand into casing to hold it look worn and not holding it in there solid. The lower unit seal kit does not have any parts for the shift shaft. Thanks for help aliboy.","yup its shift shaft leaking. I pulled it out, looked ok so I put it back in and pressure tested, no leak. Pushed it down to put in forward, no leaks. Pulled it up for reverse, seal popped loose and leaked like crazy. Plastic bumps that expand into casing to hold it look worn and not holding it in there solid. The lower unit seal kit does not have any parts for the shift shaft. Thanks for help aliboy.","Sorry, I forgot to say that we did do the impeller as well. I'll pull the t-stats to see what they look like. Hopefully that is all that it is. Thank you for your help this far. I'll let you guys know how I make out." +"I am new to site and need some help. +I recently purchased a boat with a '88 Yamaha 30 hp motor. There was water in the gear oil. After watching some youtube videos of putting in lower unit seal kits, I decided I would try it. I built a pressure tester and pressure tested the lower unit before I did anything else to test my tester and see where the leaks are. I submerged it when pressure testing with less than 10 lbs pressure. No air leaked from the prop shaft, only a few bubbles from the drive shaft when I turned it, but air is pouring out of the housing right in front of the shift linkage. Is this normal or do I have a cracked housing (from water in it freezing?) or another issue? It is not where I expected to see air coming from. + +I have not removed the water pump housing or anything else yet. I appreciate any advice, Thanks.","Nearly all lower units have a prop shaft seal x 2 (vacuum and pressure), a shift shaft seal, and a drive shaft seal x 1 (or 2). Figured it had to be the one you hadn't checked. Good luck with the repair.","Nearly all lower units have a prop shaft seal x 2 (vacuum and pressure), a shift shaft seal, and a drive shaft seal x 1 (or 2). Figured it had to be the one you hadn't checked. Good luck with the repair.","I was able to get prop off. It appears it was stuck to far in but once off the splined shaft it sits on spins freely in neutral. Spins in reverse but forward appears stuck or froze will not turn. +Shifter shifts freely in between forard neutral and reverse. + +I have not pulled carrier yet to inspect ill do that today. +For some reason it appears that the safety for starting is not releasing as you cant pull pullstart now.any thoughts on what else may be wrong." +"Hi, + +I have a Yamaha F50 4 stroke outboard motor and all of a sudden it seems, the water which used to spray very well out of the vent hole, is not coming out very much at all. It just sort of dribbles out when the engine is at idle (it used to pee out at a good rate) and comes out a little better when cruising at about 3000 rpm. + +I checked the pickup screens at the bottom of the lower unit and there was no clog. I also unplugged the flush fitting at the front of the engine and saw that water was shooting out at pretty good pressure at that point. + +I also tried hooking up a garden hose with the suction cups to the lower unit screen area and tried to force water through to see if water would shoot out the vent hole any better. It didn't. + +So I really don't know what to do at this point. I did drive the boat for short periods of time and didn't get any over heating, but I'm still worried that there is something wrong with the water pump or something. + +I'm pretty new at this stuff but I am fairly handy and I really don't want to take this to a mechanic if I don't have to. + +What else should I try to narrow down what might be the cause or is this indicative to a water pump issue?? + +As I said it was almost like a light switch - one minute it was peeing out water fine like it always has, and a while later when I went to use the boat again I noticed that it wasn't. + +Thanks for any help.","Just to follow up. + +I cleaned out the vent hole using a piece of wire and this fixed the problem. The vent hole must've have been plugged up slightly.","Just to follow up. + +I cleaned out the vent hole using a piece of wire and this fixed the problem. The vent hole must've have been plugged up slightly.",OK. Seal it as best as you can until the replacement part shows up. +"Hi, + +I have a Yamaha F50 4 stroke outboard motor and all of a sudden it seems, the water which used to spray very well out of the vent hole, is not coming out very much at all. It just sort of dribbles out when the engine is at idle (it used to pee out at a good rate) and comes out a little better when cruising at about 3000 rpm. + +I checked the pickup screens at the bottom of the lower unit and there was no clog. I also unplugged the flush fitting at the front of the engine and saw that water was shooting out at pretty good pressure at that point. + +I also tried hooking up a garden hose with the suction cups to the lower unit screen area and tried to force water through to see if water would shoot out the vent hole any better. It didn't. + +So I really don't know what to do at this point. I did drive the boat for short periods of time and didn't get any over heating, but I'm still worried that there is something wrong with the water pump or something. + +I'm pretty new at this stuff but I am fairly handy and I really don't want to take this to a mechanic if I don't have to. + +What else should I try to narrow down what might be the cause or is this indicative to a water pump issue?? + +As I said it was almost like a light switch - one minute it was peeing out water fine like it always has, and a while later when I went to use the boat again I noticed that it wasn't. + +Thanks for any help.",Glad to hear you fixed it... Next time if it is more difficult and a short piece of wire doesn't fix it... Use weed trimmer line that will snake its way back through everything and clear a clog without causing damage.,Glad to hear you fixed it... Next time if it is more difficult and a short piece of wire doesn't fix it... Use weed trimmer line that will snake its way back through everything and clear a clog without causing damage.,I'm going wih 25hp max. +I recently purchased a 2000 Yamaha 50hp. I understand that the mixing ratio is 50:1. I went to Walmart and purchased a mixing bottle to assist with the process. I went online to look at mixing charts to confirm that the mixing bottle was correct. Both the bottle and the charts are not matching up. Can someone please point me in the right direction so that I am not adding to little or to much oil. Thanks.,50:1... 2.6 ounces of oil to one gallon of gasoline for a 50:1 mixture,50:1... 2.6 ounces of oil to one gallon of gasoline for a 50:1 mixture,Well since no one chimed in. I decided to keep at it. I found the problem. I swapped the spark plugs and had a different situation. I replaced the bad plug (with 2 new ones) and that did the trick. Thanks for all your help. +"All of a sudden there is a loss of power in forward motion and the entire boat shutters. Would like suggestions on what to check or what has happened. +Only took out for a few hours in 2013 and problem started on last trip; it felt like the boat was overloaded.","fuel starvation, or limp mode, or you hit something","fuel starvation, or limp mode, or you hit something",I'm still waiting for advice +"All of a sudden there is a loss of power in forward motion and the entire boat shutters. Would like suggestions on what to check or what has happened. +Only took out for a few hours in 2013 and problem started on last trip; it felt like the boat was overloaded.",What is the HP?,What is the HP?,"right so my mate had a guy come today , +the spark now jumps good and bright , will jump half inch no problem. +when i got over to him we started the engine up ran it for a while, +stopped it let it sit for 5 mins, +engine wouldnt start again, +back to the same really hard to start had to give it a lot of trottle, +once started u could hear the cylinders jumping in and out, +got a proper spark tester and spark is jumping very good with a good crack to it, +thing is driving him nuts, +the guy who looked at it was a electric engineer and found a bad wire so replaced it," +what should I do first when bringing it up and running after 3 years of setting,"I remember my dad had a 3.5HP Evinrude from the 50's or 60's. It sat down in our basement for as long as I could remember. Heavy as crap with the onboard fuel tank and such. Fast forward to the 80's I told my dad it was time to get rid of that dead engine and he bet me it would start. So, we filled a trash can, put gas in it and sure as crap on the 3rd or 4th pull she started. I wouldn't take that engine out on a boat as I am sure all the fuel lines and gaskets were totally shot but it started and ran to full throttle! Small engines are the best. After 3 years... drain all fuel but there is prob no fuel left in anything (which is prob a good thing). Pull the carb and fully clean it.. especially that little brass fuel jet . Hook it up to a fresh tank of gas and fully prime the fuel bulb. Give her a few pulls and I bet she starts. Before you run far from the dock, I'd run her in a trash can on a tank of gas with Seafoam added for a while... Never know that may shake lose in those dry fuel lines that could create a problem on the water that could be found on land.","I remember my dad had a 3.5HP Evinrude from the 50's or 60's. It sat down in our basement for as long as I could remember. Heavy as crap with the onboard fuel tank and such. Fast forward to the 80's I told my dad it was time to get rid of that dead engine and he bet me it would start. So, we filled a trash can, put gas in it and sure as crap on the 3rd or 4th pull she started. I wouldn't take that engine out on a boat as I am sure all the fuel lines and gaskets were totally shot but it started and ran to full throttle! Small engines are the best. After 3 years... drain all fuel but there is prob no fuel left in anything (which is prob a good thing). Pull the carb and fully clean it.. especially that little brass fuel jet . Hook it up to a fresh tank of gas and fully prime the fuel bulb. Give her a few pulls and I bet she starts. Before you run far from the dock, I'd run her in a trash can on a tank of gas with Seafoam added for a while... Never know that may shake lose in those dry fuel lines that could create a problem on the water that could be found on land.",Now that I have forgotten to give additional info --- this is an I/O with merc. outdrive -- tilt / trim is a single button operation and works fine... it is just the gauge.. any info would help +"I have a 40 HP, 3 cylinder, 2 cycle Yamaha. + +Boat goes well. Then slows down by itself. I ease off on the gas and when running very slowly there is a noticeable kick and it runs well again. This action often repeats.",fresh gas? no water in gas?vent on tank open and working?does it fail if someone is pumping the bulb?,fresh gas? no water in gas?vent on tank open and working?does it fail if someone is pumping the bulb?,"Yamaha's traditionally have a weak spark,is it getting fuel? Layed up for that long I find it hard to believe the carb doesn't need cleaning" +"I have a 40 HP, 3 cylinder, 2 cycle Yamaha. + +Boat goes well. Then slows down by itself. I ease off on the gas and when running very slowly there is a noticeable kick and it runs well again. This action often repeats.","Fuel flow restriction somewhere. Your diaphram pump can fill the carbs with fuel and she'll run strong until the carbs are drained then she chokes and is fuel starved... throttle back and the carbs fill again ready for another push until that fuel is burned off. Check adn change all filters you have along the way and remember there may be a filter on the fuel pick-up line that sits on the bottom of your gas tank that is clogged. Many don't know that before the Racor filter (if you have one), before the under cowling filter and all the others that may be in line beyond that... there may be that stupid filter on your tank pick-up line installed by the boat manufacturer purely for warranty reasons in case they left some crap in the tank when it left the factory. If there is a filter on that pick-up... pull it off and throw it away as it never should have been put there and is not needed with all the other filters along the way.","Fuel flow restriction somewhere. Your diaphram pump can fill the carbs with fuel and she'll run strong until the carbs are drained then she chokes and is fuel starved... throttle back and the carbs fill again ready for another push until that fuel is burned off. Check adn change all filters you have along the way and remember there may be a filter on the fuel pick-up line that sits on the bottom of your gas tank that is clogged. Many don't know that before the Racor filter (if you have one), before the under cowling filter and all the others that may be in line beyond that... there may be that stupid filter on your tank pick-up line installed by the boat manufacturer purely for warranty reasons in case they left some crap in the tank when it left the factory. If there is a filter on that pick-up... pull it off and throw it away as it never should have been put there and is not needed with all the other filters along the way.",Is this what I would need https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Out...-Diagnostic-cable-set-Plug-play-/330918278833 +This is a 2009 40hp F40LA. I don't think this problem is specific to the model. So this is in MN where we have gas that has ethanol and causes many problems with engines. So this outboard probably sat for a year as is with no winterizing or draining gas. So it did start but ran poorly a month ago when I started to work on it and then finally failed to run unless a shot of starting fluid was sprayed in the intake. Here are steps taken: Drained fuel from tank. Replaced fuel separator filter that is between external fuel tank and outboard. Replace filter in water sensor. This is fuel injected so removed the VST and found it was filled with vanishing from sitting. Removed the VST body assembly and cleaned it out. Removed fuel pump from VST and cleaned it and filter. Same done for fuel pressure regulator. Put everything back together and it started 1 time and then would never fire. If again I sprayed starting fluid in the intake it would fire 1 time and then quit after burning up that. I pulled the injectors and the rail I cleaned the injectors externally and all looked good. I held the fuel rail as someone turned over the engine and there was a fairly good spray of fuel coming out. I reinstalled the rail and still would not start. If I took the rail off and sprayed some starting fluid in each port and replaced the injectors it would start for a brief second and then quit. How can I tell if it is a fuel pump problem or injector? I don't have a fuel gauge and I that is what I may need to get. But from the fuel I see coming out of the injectors during my test I can't understand why I don't see just a hint of it firing. Unless the pressure has to be so great to get inside chamber and that is what is wh. I really appreciate anything you can share regarding this problem. I don't have a trailer so trying to do this myself to save some $$$ as nothing is cheap. Thanks!,"isc valve may be stuck closed, it is part of the throttle & body easily tested with ydis. Does the engine stay running with a little throttle? +To check the fuel pressure you need an adapter that clips onto the top of the rail.","isc valve may be stuck closed, it is part of the throttle & body easily tested with ydis. Does the engine stay running with a little throttle? +To check the fuel pressure you need an adapter that clips onto the top of the rail.","Basics first, spark, fuel, compression ,you have to determine where to start, does it have a safety kill switch? many possibilities" +This is a 2009 40hp F40LA. I don't think this problem is specific to the model. So this is in MN where we have gas that has ethanol and causes many problems with engines. So this outboard probably sat for a year as is with no winterizing or draining gas. So it did start but ran poorly a month ago when I started to work on it and then finally failed to run unless a shot of starting fluid was sprayed in the intake. Here are steps taken: Drained fuel from tank. Replaced fuel separator filter that is between external fuel tank and outboard. Replace filter in water sensor. This is fuel injected so removed the VST and found it was filled with vanishing from sitting. Removed the VST body assembly and cleaned it out. Removed fuel pump from VST and cleaned it and filter. Same done for fuel pressure regulator. Put everything back together and it started 1 time and then would never fire. If again I sprayed starting fluid in the intake it would fire 1 time and then quit after burning up that. I pulled the injectors and the rail I cleaned the injectors externally and all looked good. I held the fuel rail as someone turned over the engine and there was a fairly good spray of fuel coming out. I reinstalled the rail and still would not start. If I took the rail off and sprayed some starting fluid in each port and replaced the injectors it would start for a brief second and then quit. How can I tell if it is a fuel pump problem or injector? I don't have a fuel gauge and I that is what I may need to get. But from the fuel I see coming out of the injectors during my test I can't understand why I don't see just a hint of it firing. Unless the pressure has to be so great to get inside chamber and that is what is wh. I really appreciate anything you can share regarding this problem. I don't have a trailer so trying to do this myself to save some $$$ as nothing is cheap. Thanks!,I can check the isc but don't have access to test with ydis. Engine will not stay running with applying a little throttle. There is a Schrader valve on the vst that I can connect a pressure gauge to and will be doing that today. It is almost like the injectors are not spraying enough or far enough into the intake for it to fire. As I indicated when I spray starting fluid in the injector ports and quickly put the injectors and fuel rail back in place it will fire up on that instantly but then die again.,I can check the isc but don't have access to test with ydis. Engine will not stay running with applying a little throttle. There is a Schrader valve on the vst that I can connect a pressure gauge to and will be doing that today. It is almost like the injectors are not spraying enough or far enough into the intake for it to fire. As I indicated when I spray starting fluid in the injector ports and quickly put the injectors and fuel rail back in place it will fire up on that instantly but then die again.,"Upper arrow shows rubber hose for speedo pitot. I think. +I cannot find another hole in the lower unit that could be the pitot hole. +Lower arrow shows the hole in question. Notice the channel in the case leading to the hole is clearer in this picture. + +(I have a Yami 90. Pitot is in the leading edge of LU about 2"" above the prop shaft). Can't find it there on the 200. +Maybe it was on the leading edge and got epoxied over. Very fugly case on this thing. + + + + +A few questions. +If it is not the pitot hole, what is it for? +Where is the pitot hole? +Most importantly, before I drop the lower unit, is there anything I should know. +- I see the bolts going upwards into the exhaust housing. Including the one under the missing trim tab. +- ground wire and rubber hose to disconnect. +- how does the shift linkage disconnect? +- is there anything else to deal with? Water line? +- why is there a ground to the LU? Corrosion?" +This is a 2009 40hp F40LA. I don't think this problem is specific to the model. So this is in MN where we have gas that has ethanol and causes many problems with engines. So this outboard probably sat for a year as is with no winterizing or draining gas. So it did start but ran poorly a month ago when I started to work on it and then finally failed to run unless a shot of starting fluid was sprayed in the intake. Here are steps taken: Drained fuel from tank. Replaced fuel separator filter that is between external fuel tank and outboard. Replace filter in water sensor. This is fuel injected so removed the VST and found it was filled with vanishing from sitting. Removed the VST body assembly and cleaned it out. Removed fuel pump from VST and cleaned it and filter. Same done for fuel pressure regulator. Put everything back together and it started 1 time and then would never fire. If again I sprayed starting fluid in the intake it would fire 1 time and then quit after burning up that. I pulled the injectors and the rail I cleaned the injectors externally and all looked good. I held the fuel rail as someone turned over the engine and there was a fairly good spray of fuel coming out. I reinstalled the rail and still would not start. If I took the rail off and sprayed some starting fluid in each port and replaced the injectors it would start for a brief second and then quit. How can I tell if it is a fuel pump problem or injector? I don't have a fuel gauge and I that is what I may need to get. But from the fuel I see coming out of the injectors during my test I can't understand why I don't see just a hint of it firing. Unless the pressure has to be so great to get inside chamber and that is what is wh. I really appreciate anything you can share regarding this problem. I don't have a trailer so trying to do this myself to save some $$$ as nothing is cheap. Thanks!,The schrader valve on top of the vst is a vent used when draining the vst. me thinks there wont be pressure there :rolleyes:,The schrader valve on top of the vst is a vent used when draining the vst. me thinks there wont be pressure there :rolleyes:,Pictures. +This is a 2009 40hp F40LA. I don't think this problem is specific to the model. So this is in MN where we have gas that has ethanol and causes many problems with engines. So this outboard probably sat for a year as is with no winterizing or draining gas. So it did start but ran poorly a month ago when I started to work on it and then finally failed to run unless a shot of starting fluid was sprayed in the intake. Here are steps taken: Drained fuel from tank. Replaced fuel separator filter that is between external fuel tank and outboard. Replace filter in water sensor. This is fuel injected so removed the VST and found it was filled with vanishing from sitting. Removed the VST body assembly and cleaned it out. Removed fuel pump from VST and cleaned it and filter. Same done for fuel pressure regulator. Put everything back together and it started 1 time and then would never fire. If again I sprayed starting fluid in the intake it would fire 1 time and then quit after burning up that. I pulled the injectors and the rail I cleaned the injectors externally and all looked good. I held the fuel rail as someone turned over the engine and there was a fairly good spray of fuel coming out. I reinstalled the rail and still would not start. If I took the rail off and sprayed some starting fluid in each port and replaced the injectors it would start for a brief second and then quit. How can I tell if it is a fuel pump problem or injector? I don't have a fuel gauge and I that is what I may need to get. But from the fuel I see coming out of the injectors during my test I can't understand why I don't see just a hint of it firing. Unless the pressure has to be so great to get inside chamber and that is what is wh. I really appreciate anything you can share regarding this problem. I don't have a trailer so trying to do this myself to save some $$$ as nothing is cheap. Thanks!,"fishingoats was correct, there was no pressure on that Schrader valve. In fact, if I took the valve out and attempted to start the engine, no gas even came out of that location so there is no pressure in the vst tank but just the actual line itself that heads to the injector rail. So I have no way of testing fuel pressure unless I get that clip that attaches to the rail. When I hold the fuel injector rail and have someone crank over the engine, there is a spray that goes almost 2ft so I have to believe that is enough pressure. The only thing I can think of is that the fuel pump is still not strong enough or screen is blocked preventing it from getting enough fuel to the injectors themselves.","fishingoats was correct, there was no pressure on that Schrader valve. In fact, if I took the valve out and attempted to start the engine, no gas even came out of that location so there is no pressure in the vst tank but just the actual line itself that heads to the injector rail. So I have no way of testing fuel pressure unless I get that clip that attaches to the rail. When I hold the fuel injector rail and have someone crank over the engine, there is a spray that goes almost 2ft so I have to believe that is enough pressure. The only thing I can think of is that the fuel pump is still not strong enough or screen is blocked preventing it from getting enough fuel to the injectors themselves.","It sounds like the tilt/trim is pulling so much current that it's likely screwing up your ignition system. The first thing to check is your battery cables. Disconnect, bend them back and forth, and if you hear a crackling sound, they are internally corroded and need to be replaced. Check the ends that connect to the battery lugs and selector switch for corrosion. Check the battery connections. They should be spotlessly clean and the terminals very tight with lock nuts installed. If you have a selector switch, bypass it temporarily. Use an auto jumper cable to connect battery ground directly to the engine chassis. Use the other auto jumper cable to jump from battery positive to where ever the main positive connector is on the engine. If that clears it up, isolate exactly where the problem is. Often times the contacts on the battery selector switch get corroded inside. If that is where the problem is, some of those selector switches can be disassembled and cleaned up. Other cannot and need to be replaced." +This is a 2009 40hp F40LA. I don't think this problem is specific to the model. So this is in MN where we have gas that has ethanol and causes many problems with engines. So this outboard probably sat for a year as is with no winterizing or draining gas. So it did start but ran poorly a month ago when I started to work on it and then finally failed to run unless a shot of starting fluid was sprayed in the intake. Here are steps taken: Drained fuel from tank. Replaced fuel separator filter that is between external fuel tank and outboard. Replace filter in water sensor. This is fuel injected so removed the VST and found it was filled with vanishing from sitting. Removed the VST body assembly and cleaned it out. Removed fuel pump from VST and cleaned it and filter. Same done for fuel pressure regulator. Put everything back together and it started 1 time and then would never fire. If again I sprayed starting fluid in the intake it would fire 1 time and then quit after burning up that. I pulled the injectors and the rail I cleaned the injectors externally and all looked good. I held the fuel rail as someone turned over the engine and there was a fairly good spray of fuel coming out. I reinstalled the rail and still would not start. If I took the rail off and sprayed some starting fluid in each port and replaced the injectors it would start for a brief second and then quit. How can I tell if it is a fuel pump problem or injector? I don't have a fuel gauge and I that is what I may need to get. But from the fuel I see coming out of the injectors during my test I can't understand why I don't see just a hint of it firing. Unless the pressure has to be so great to get inside chamber and that is what is wh. I really appreciate anything you can share regarding this problem. I don't have a trailer so trying to do this myself to save some $$$ as nothing is cheap. Thanks!,What is the serial number of the motor? Early F40LA's had a bulletin issue for VST fuel pumps. Did you have the bulletin work done?,What is the serial number of the motor? Early F40LA's had a bulletin issue for VST fuel pumps. Did you have the bulletin work done?,"My bad. Didn't pay close attantion. Do the same thing I recommended, but scroll down to the Mercruiser forum." +This is a 2009 40hp F40LA. I don't think this problem is specific to the model. So this is in MN where we have gas that has ethanol and causes many problems with engines. So this outboard probably sat for a year as is with no winterizing or draining gas. So it did start but ran poorly a month ago when I started to work on it and then finally failed to run unless a shot of starting fluid was sprayed in the intake. Here are steps taken: Drained fuel from tank. Replaced fuel separator filter that is between external fuel tank and outboard. Replace filter in water sensor. This is fuel injected so removed the VST and found it was filled with vanishing from sitting. Removed the VST body assembly and cleaned it out. Removed fuel pump from VST and cleaned it and filter. Same done for fuel pressure regulator. Put everything back together and it started 1 time and then would never fire. If again I sprayed starting fluid in the intake it would fire 1 time and then quit after burning up that. I pulled the injectors and the rail I cleaned the injectors externally and all looked good. I held the fuel rail as someone turned over the engine and there was a fairly good spray of fuel coming out. I reinstalled the rail and still would not start. If I took the rail off and sprayed some starting fluid in each port and replaced the injectors it would start for a brief second and then quit. How can I tell if it is a fuel pump problem or injector? I don't have a fuel gauge and I that is what I may need to get. But from the fuel I see coming out of the injectors during my test I can't understand why I don't see just a hint of it firing. Unless the pressure has to be so great to get inside chamber and that is what is wh. I really appreciate anything you can share regarding this problem. I don't have a trailer so trying to do this myself to save some $$$ as nothing is cheap. Thanks!,So the sticker says F40LA and then next line is 6BG L 1008188 F . No I was not aware of a VST fuel pump bulletin. I'm not sure if the number I provided is the s/n or not. It is up at a cabin so not easy to work on or get this information right away. Appreciate feedback and I can call dealer too and see if there is a bulletin related to this.,So the sticker says F40LA and then next line is 6BG L 1008188 F . No I was not aware of a VST fuel pump bulletin. I'm not sure if the number I provided is the s/n or not. It is up at a cabin so not easy to work on or get this information right away. Appreciate feedback and I can call dealer too and see if there is a bulletin related to this.,"racerone said: + + + + Some will argue.----I would run it at 50:1------It will last many more hrs that way. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the reply. Yes, I'm going to run it at 50:1 until I see some form of documentation from the manufacturer that they recommend 100:1. + +Now, if I can just get my hands on an owner's manual... + +Best Regards, +Jeff" +This is a 2009 40hp F40LA. I don't think this problem is specific to the model. So this is in MN where we have gas that has ethanol and causes many problems with engines. So this outboard probably sat for a year as is with no winterizing or draining gas. So it did start but ran poorly a month ago when I started to work on it and then finally failed to run unless a shot of starting fluid was sprayed in the intake. Here are steps taken: Drained fuel from tank. Replaced fuel separator filter that is between external fuel tank and outboard. Replace filter in water sensor. This is fuel injected so removed the VST and found it was filled with vanishing from sitting. Removed the VST body assembly and cleaned it out. Removed fuel pump from VST and cleaned it and filter. Same done for fuel pressure regulator. Put everything back together and it started 1 time and then would never fire. If again I sprayed starting fluid in the intake it would fire 1 time and then quit after burning up that. I pulled the injectors and the rail I cleaned the injectors externally and all looked good. I held the fuel rail as someone turned over the engine and there was a fairly good spray of fuel coming out. I reinstalled the rail and still would not start. If I took the rail off and sprayed some starting fluid in each port and replaced the injectors it would start for a brief second and then quit. How can I tell if it is a fuel pump problem or injector? I don't have a fuel gauge and I that is what I may need to get. But from the fuel I see coming out of the injectors during my test I can't understand why I don't see just a hint of it firing. Unless the pressure has to be so great to get inside chamber and that is what is wh. I really appreciate anything you can share regarding this problem. I don't have a trailer so trying to do this myself to save some $$$ as nothing is cheap. Thanks!,"Your motor has had the modification performed. + +I see that the warranty just ran out last month. Why not take the motor to a dealer and have him ask Yamaha for some goodwill assistance getting the problem fixed? Depending upon the problem, and the fact that your warranty just expired, Yamaha might be willing to help you.","Your motor has had the modification performed. + +I see that the warranty just ran out last month. Why not take the motor to a dealer and have him ask Yamaha for some goodwill assistance getting the problem fixed? Depending upon the problem, and the fact that your warranty just expired, Yamaha might be willing to help you.",the water in some of these waterfront places and sometimes even small towns treat that water and that is the result...a couple tips when you fill up your tanks:let the water run before filling to get rid of any water in the supply lines that may be stagnant or exposed to the sun...heat aggravates this smell and makes it worse..the 2nd thing is the type of hose you use to feed your boat...rubber hose will give a smell to your water....black rubber hose and sun dont mix...the white rv hose works well but it has ribs inside it and almost impossible to splice fittings on without a eventual leak...been there and went thru all that...thats a bad smell when you go to your boat and the water has been in the tank and you run the faucet.... +This is a 2009 40hp F40LA. I don't think this problem is specific to the model. So this is in MN where we have gas that has ethanol and causes many problems with engines. So this outboard probably sat for a year as is with no winterizing or draining gas. So it did start but ran poorly a month ago when I started to work on it and then finally failed to run unless a shot of starting fluid was sprayed in the intake. Here are steps taken: Drained fuel from tank. Replaced fuel separator filter that is between external fuel tank and outboard. Replace filter in water sensor. This is fuel injected so removed the VST and found it was filled with vanishing from sitting. Removed the VST body assembly and cleaned it out. Removed fuel pump from VST and cleaned it and filter. Same done for fuel pressure regulator. Put everything back together and it started 1 time and then would never fire. If again I sprayed starting fluid in the intake it would fire 1 time and then quit after burning up that. I pulled the injectors and the rail I cleaned the injectors externally and all looked good. I held the fuel rail as someone turned over the engine and there was a fairly good spray of fuel coming out. I reinstalled the rail and still would not start. If I took the rail off and sprayed some starting fluid in each port and replaced the injectors it would start for a brief second and then quit. How can I tell if it is a fuel pump problem or injector? I don't have a fuel gauge and I that is what I may need to get. But from the fuel I see coming out of the injectors during my test I can't understand why I don't see just a hint of it firing. Unless the pressure has to be so great to get inside chamber and that is what is wh. I really appreciate anything you can share regarding this problem. I don't have a trailer so trying to do this myself to save some $$$ as nothing is cheap. Thanks!,"If you pulled the fuel rail with the injectors still plugged into it and turned it over and saw fuel ""spraying"" (not squirting) from all injectors this doesn't seem to be a fuel problem. The fuel and air mix is injected/introduced on the intake stroke, then it is compressed on compression stroke, then fired on the combustion stroke and exhausted on the exhause stroke. Each ""stroke"" represents travel of the cylinder be it up or down. On the intake stroke, there is no compression so as long as you have a good SPRAY from the injectors I don't see a fuel pump problem in your case. However, you could have a leaking injector problem. In other words... your injectors are always under pressure but if they are leaking regardless of when they get the signal to spray they could be spraying fuel all the time creating an over-rich situation. Before you start chasing ghosts, I'd send your injectors out for testing and cleaning. I send mine to Dale who runs fuelinjectorman.com in FL. Cheap testing, cleaning, etc. You can clean them youself and they may spray fine but you can't tell if they fully shut off when they are supposed to. You'll see this problem from leaking injectors.","If you pulled the fuel rail with the injectors still plugged into it and turned it over and saw fuel ""spraying"" (not squirting) from all injectors this doesn't seem to be a fuel problem. The fuel and air mix is injected/introduced on the intake stroke, then it is compressed on compression stroke, then fired on the combustion stroke and exhausted on the exhause stroke. Each ""stroke"" represents travel of the cylinder be it up or down. On the intake stroke, there is no compression so as long as you have a good SPRAY from the injectors I don't see a fuel pump problem in your case. However, you could have a leaking injector problem. In other words... your injectors are always under pressure but if they are leaking regardless of when they get the signal to spray they could be spraying fuel all the time creating an over-rich situation. Before you start chasing ghosts, I'd send your injectors out for testing and cleaning. I send mine to Dale who runs fuelinjectorman.com in FL. Cheap testing, cleaning, etc. You can clean them youself and they may spray fine but you can't tell if they fully shut off when they are supposed to. You'll see this problem from leaking injectors.","Thanks Boscoe, I did locate the drain plug and have now changed the oil. THere is a second plug close to the oil vent which is engraved with the word 'wash"" It is the same size as the oil vent. I can only assume it could be for flushing out the oil chamber after draining. What kind of flushing liquid could be used assuming it is there for that reason? +Thanks once again for your information," +This is a 2009 40hp F40LA. I don't think this problem is specific to the model. So this is in MN where we have gas that has ethanol and causes many problems with engines. So this outboard probably sat for a year as is with no winterizing or draining gas. So it did start but ran poorly a month ago when I started to work on it and then finally failed to run unless a shot of starting fluid was sprayed in the intake. Here are steps taken: Drained fuel from tank. Replaced fuel separator filter that is between external fuel tank and outboard. Replace filter in water sensor. This is fuel injected so removed the VST and found it was filled with vanishing from sitting. Removed the VST body assembly and cleaned it out. Removed fuel pump from VST and cleaned it and filter. Same done for fuel pressure regulator. Put everything back together and it started 1 time and then would never fire. If again I sprayed starting fluid in the intake it would fire 1 time and then quit after burning up that. I pulled the injectors and the rail I cleaned the injectors externally and all looked good. I held the fuel rail as someone turned over the engine and there was a fairly good spray of fuel coming out. I reinstalled the rail and still would not start. If I took the rail off and sprayed some starting fluid in each port and replaced the injectors it would start for a brief second and then quit. How can I tell if it is a fuel pump problem or injector? I don't have a fuel gauge and I that is what I may need to get. But from the fuel I see coming out of the injectors during my test I can't understand why I don't see just a hint of it firing. Unless the pressure has to be so great to get inside chamber and that is what is wh. I really appreciate anything you can share regarding this problem. I don't have a trailer so trying to do this myself to save some $$$ as nothing is cheap. Thanks!,"Quick check... Hook up your injectors, fuel rail. etc and put all in working order... Crank it over several times. No start... pull your plugs and see if they may be wet or smell of raw fuel.","Quick check... Hook up your injectors, fuel rail. etc and put all in working order... Crank it over several times. No start... pull your plugs and see if they may be wet or smell of raw fuel.","escription: ARJAY POURABLE TRANSOM COMPOUND is ceramic filled polyester exhibiting exceptional physical properties. In particular, the compressive strength has been documented by an independent testing laboratory to be 3,895 psi (ASTM 695). This is several times that of plywood and 8 to 10 times that of PVC foam. In addition, the failure mode shows elastic yielding before failure. This makes the ARJAY POURABLE TRANSOM COMPOUND material an excellent choice for critical applications such as coring for FIBERGLASS BOAT TRANSOM REPAIR, FIBERGLASS BOAT BULKHEAD REPAIR, FIBERGLASS BOAT STRINGER REPAIR ,FIBERGLASS BOAT ENGINE BED REPAIR. ARJAY PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS.formulates its Ceramic Pourable Compound with premium polyester resins and high strength ceramic spheres resulting in high tensile and flexural strength. This lightweight compound is ideal for filling large volumes where strength and rigidity are major concerns. The Ceramic Pourable Compound mixes and pours easily from the 5-gallon pail.. $133.00 +5280 95th Street North, Suite 1, St. Petersburg, FL 33708 | Office:727-391-7639 | Store:727-392-1312" +"Hoping someone on this forum might be able to provide some advise. Is checking the fuel pump filter a simple process of dropping the VST tank, inspecting the filter, cleaning or replacing the filter? Are there other VST, fuel pump or float parts I should check while the tank is removed? (Are there other parts I should be prepared to check and replace?) Any advise in this regard would really be appreciated. Thank you, BlackMoon","I have an '02 F115 and getting to the VST tank and filter is a pain on that engine. I've had to change that filter twice in the past 3 years thanks to ethanol. You can clean that filter and the tank with carb spray but for the price, if I'm going in that deep to get to it, I'll put a new one in and save the old. 1st time I didn't change the gasket on the top of the VST tank. I pulled the gasket and cleaned everything well then used it again. 2nd time I bought a new one and replaced it as it was quite compressed and I wasn't sure of its ability to seal anymore. IF your VST tank is burried, at the same time you change that VST filter, change all other in-lines that lead up to it and use a clear glass bottle to hand-squeeze plenty of fuel through so you make sure you've fluched everything out that could be in the lines.","I have an '02 F115 and getting to the VST tank and filter is a pain on that engine. I've had to change that filter twice in the past 3 years thanks to ethanol. You can clean that filter and the tank with carb spray but for the price, if I'm going in that deep to get to it, I'll put a new one in and save the old. 1st time I didn't change the gasket on the top of the VST tank. I pulled the gasket and cleaned everything well then used it again. 2nd time I bought a new one and replaced it as it was quite compressed and I wasn't sure of its ability to seal anymore. IF your VST tank is burried, at the same time you change that VST filter, change all other in-lines that lead up to it and use a clear glass bottle to hand-squeeze plenty of fuel through so you make sure you've fluched everything out that could be in the lines.","chawk_man said: + + + + I just installed a higher grade replacement antenna (Shakespeare) on my boat. Now, VHF (West marine) hangs up on channel 68 when GPS (Garmin 4208) is on. Why is that happening and what can I do to fix it? Thanks for any help. + +Click to expand... + + +1st..Check that all the grounds are good. +2nd..Be sure the cables from the GPS and radio are not ""bundled together"" and keep them seperate. The GPS power to the transducer may be may be putting out enough RF around the cable that it is simulating a signal on the radio. +3rd.. Try installing ""shielded cable"" on the power inputs to both the radio and GPS, grounding the shield only on one end of the cable shield (not both ends) and seperating all the cables." +"I am at a stand still. my tilt will only go up, not down. When I push the down button all a get is click. I checked the voltage at the down relay, one w/ green wire, and it was 12.17. I reversed the wires to the relays, and when I pushed the up button it went down and click for the down button. Both relays show 12.17 volts at the stud on the relays. So I believe it's not the motor, its either the ground or the down relay, but what is baffling me, is the power it shows at the down relay. Again, I'm at a stand still. Thanks for any help.","Your up relay is probably not earthing(or it's F*%ked). put a voltmeter with one probe on the blue post (load side) and the other to the engine block, there should be little/no voltage difference when pressing the down button (make sure all wires are connected when doing this). For the tilt motor to go up and down the polarity is reversed, thus requiring two relay's, both of which are grounded when switched off. When the down switch is pressed the down relay switches from ""grounded"" to positive and the ""up"" relay stays off allowing the tilt motor to earth through the ""up"" relay. +When you got 12.17v was that on the output side of the down relay or from the switch? +also make sure that only the down relay is switching on. Some times there can be a short in the trim switch which allows 12v down both the blue and green wire thus activating both relays (pretty far fetched)","Your up relay is probably not earthing(or it's F*%ked). put a voltmeter with one probe on the blue post (load side) and the other to the engine block, there should be little/no voltage difference when pressing the down button (make sure all wires are connected when doing this). For the tilt motor to go up and down the polarity is reversed, thus requiring two relay's, both of which are grounded when switched off. When the down switch is pressed the down relay switches from ""grounded"" to positive and the ""up"" relay stays off allowing the tilt motor to earth through the ""up"" relay. +When you got 12.17v was that on the output side of the down relay or from the switch? +also make sure that only the down relay is switching on. Some times there can be a short in the trim switch which allows 12v down both the blue and green wire thus activating both relays (pretty far fetched)",I am running a 2010 merc with low hours...I am not going to touch it... +Going to changing out the impeller on a F115 and was wondering if anyone actually uses the Yamabond on the O-rings and the Loctite 562(?)on the bolts. I can not locate the Loctite shown in the service manual. I have seen a couple of You Tube videos and they say to apply marine grade grease to the O-rings and bolts. No one seems to be using the Loctite or Yamabond. Any replies will be appreciated. Thanks.,"Yama-what? marine grease does the job. Use Yamaha grease ""WR no 2"" for the drive shaft Bushing and splines.","Yama-what? marine grease does the job. Use Yamaha grease ""WR no 2"" for the drive shaft Bushing and splines.","FYI, I did the replacement with the CH1752P on Friday and it went very well. The key is to read through the install guide a few times to get very familiar with the process and parts. + +Shifting and throttling works very smoothly now." +Going to changing out the impeller on a F115 and was wondering if anyone actually uses the Yamabond on the O-rings and the Loctite 562(?)on the bolts. I can not locate the Loctite shown in the service manual. I have seen a couple of You Tube videos and they say to apply marine grade grease to the O-rings and bolts. No one seems to be using the Loctite or Yamabond. Any replies will be appreciated. Thanks.,Thanks for the info. I kinda figured that grease would work just to hold the O-rings in place during assembly. And why wouldn't Yamaha recommend some anti-seize compound for the bolts instead of a thread locker? (That is not available anyway?) I do have some moly grease for the drive shaft and shifter splines. Have to use on the rear wheel splines on my motorcycle when re-installing after a tire change.,Thanks for the info. I kinda figured that grease would work just to hold the O-rings in place during assembly. And why wouldn't Yamaha recommend some anti-seize compound for the bolts instead of a thread locker? (That is not available anyway?) I do have some moly grease for the drive shaft and shifter splines. Have to use on the rear wheel splines on my motorcycle when re-installing after a tire change.,"You can saw a split down a wooden dowel rod and slide sand paper into the slit and wrap it so it is just lose in the tilt tube and use a drill to clean the tube. Use marine grade grease and replace the steering cable in the tube. Replacing the seals should also be done . +Oldman570" +"hi all, + is there anything hard about changing a impeller on my old Yamaha outboard its a 70hp bet 1984-5 I think. + + thanks for any help",It shouldn't be too hard. Check You Tube for videos. I will be changing the impeller on my F115 and found a few videos to use a tutorial.,It shouldn't be too hard. Check You Tube for videos. I will be changing the impeller on my F115 and found a few videos to use a tutorial.,"I think you nailed it....short somewhere. Question is, how did leaving the key on overnight cause you to have a short circuit? + +Mark" +"My HPDI starts and runs great with a good holeshot, runs at top end good. When I put it in neutral it idles up from about 10 to 18 on my Yamaha guage an the exhaust boils the water bad. Also my lights on my Ranger keypad flicker with the rpms of the motor. Had a TPS sensor and a shift switch put on last week with no fix to the problem I found out today. Any suggestions. Guessing electrical issue maybe.","Was it plugged into computer(YDIS)sensors checked, static tests? was there a reason for replacing TPS? and were the throttle valves synced before TPS being set?","Was it plugged into computer(YDIS)sensors checked, static tests? was there a reason for replacing TPS? and were the throttle valves synced before TPS being set?","Thank you, + +This gives me a starting point. I am going to do some more testing tomorrow morning. I will report back after that. + +Chonka" +"I'm at my wits end!! Am I missing something? + +details: +Engine: 1989 Yamaha V4 130 2 stroke +boat: 1989 19 ft Grady white tournament + +situation: engine seems starved for gas and higher RPM - under load +doesn't happen all the time (May happen more after I fill the tank?) +when it does- it will run at low speeds +And The bulb goes flat + + + +what I've done: +opened the gas cap when the problem happens - no help +replaced fuel filter +changed out the ""O"" ring +replaced fuel lines +took out ball bearing gas check valve and replaced w/ a manual check valve +fresh gas +new plugs +new bulb + +Can't replicate problem in driveway.... + +i would appreciate any assistance!!!!!! + +mike",Check the dip tube in the tank for a clogged screen. That means that you have to remove the anti siphon nipple and unscrew the fitting from the tank.,Check the dip tube in the tank for a clogged screen. That means that you have to remove the anti siphon nipple and unscrew the fitting from the tank.,"Our rigs are similar. My boat is a 15 ft 1957 Crestliner Voyager (with a 1956 body), and a 1971 Johnson 40 hp. I'm fixing mine up this winter, too. I'd like to say I'm restoring it, but this old boat was heavily modified, and cut, so I have to make do with the shell I have. I'm still going to try and turn it into a nice cruising and fishing boat. Instead of going original, I'm going to just have that 50's retro feel to it. I'm hoping to get some pin-tucked bench seats, with a couple of matching swivel seats and chrome trim, similar to seats in the corner cafe. I want to put in some storage compartments, LED lights, and a radio. + +September" +"I'm at my wits end!! Am I missing something? + +details: +Engine: 1989 Yamaha V4 130 2 stroke +boat: 1989 19 ft Grady white tournament + +situation: engine seems starved for gas and higher RPM - under load +doesn't happen all the time (May happen more after I fill the tank?) +when it does- it will run at low speeds +And The bulb goes flat + + + +what I've done: +opened the gas cap when the problem happens - no help +replaced fuel filter +changed out the ""O"" ring +replaced fuel lines +took out ball bearing gas check valve and replaced w/ a manual check valve +fresh gas +new plugs +new bulb + +Can't replicate problem in driveway.... + +i would appreciate any assistance!!!!!! + +mike","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Check the dip tube in the tank for a clogged screen. That means that you have to remove the anti siphon nipple and unscrew the fitting from the tank. + +Click to expand... + + +Sorry- I forgot to mention that I did check that screen (very clean ) and replaced it as well","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Check the dip tube in the tank for a clogged screen. That means that you have to remove the anti siphon nipple and unscrew the fitting from the tank. + +Click to expand... + + +Sorry- I forgot to mention that I did check that screen (very clean ) and replaced it as well",not sure yet only way to know is to take it out and run it a few times . But i think it is a bad battery maybe shorted. Switched my perko to one battery and it acted fine no surging . Then back to the other after a few minutes it started acting up again. hopefully it. +"I'm at my wits end!! Am I missing something? + +details: +Engine: 1989 Yamaha V4 130 2 stroke +boat: 1989 19 ft Grady white tournament + +situation: engine seems starved for gas and higher RPM - under load +doesn't happen all the time (May happen more after I fill the tank?) +when it does- it will run at low speeds +And The bulb goes flat + + + +what I've done: +opened the gas cap when the problem happens - no help +replaced fuel filter +changed out the ""O"" ring +replaced fuel lines +took out ball bearing gas check valve and replaced w/ a manual check valve +fresh gas +new plugs +new bulb + +Can't replicate problem in driveway.... + +i would appreciate any assistance!!!!!! + +mike",How are the LP pumps?,How are the LP pumps?,"How long does the smoke last. White smoke is usually unburnt diesel from a failed start(s) burning off like oil in a hot fry pan. It usually disappears after anywhere from 5- 30 minutes. Have you let it run for at least half an hour? How long does it take for the fuel to actually ignite after the fuel pump starts? If it was white when the fuel starts pumping that is usually low voltage at the glow plug, but if it does ignite it would disappear. 12.1 is not low enough to do that, but it is not very high either. Is that before you turn the furnace on or while the glow plug is on?" +"I'm at my wits end!! Am I missing something? + +details: +Engine: 1989 Yamaha V4 130 2 stroke +boat: 1989 19 ft Grady white tournament + +situation: engine seems starved for gas and higher RPM - under load +doesn't happen all the time (May happen more after I fill the tank?) +when it does- it will run at low speeds +And The bulb goes flat + + + +what I've done: +opened the gas cap when the problem happens - no help +replaced fuel filter +changed out the ""O"" ring +replaced fuel lines +took out ball bearing gas check valve and replaced w/ a manual check valve +fresh gas +new plugs +new bulb + +Can't replicate problem in driveway.... + +i would appreciate any assistance!!!!!! + +mike","aliboy said: + + + + How are the LP pumps? + +Click to expand... + +Had the sme issue. Water in the fuel system that was not picked up at low speed/idle","aliboy said: + + + + How are the LP pumps? + +Click to expand... + +Had the sme issue. Water in the fuel system that was not picked up at low speed/idle","If you know the insulation damage was from the reverse polarity, then I'd get some double wall shrink tube and recover the wire...if you don't, corrosion will work its magic and then the starter won't want to spin the engine when you turn the crank...hard to say about the adjacent wires in the harness...would be good idea to inspect them..." +"I'm at my wits end!! Am I missing something? + +details: +Engine: 1989 Yamaha V4 130 2 stroke +boat: 1989 19 ft Grady white tournament + +situation: engine seems starved for gas and higher RPM - under load +doesn't happen all the time (May happen more after I fill the tank?) +when it does- it will run at low speeds +And The bulb goes flat + + + +what I've done: +opened the gas cap when the problem happens - no help +replaced fuel filter +changed out the ""O"" ring +replaced fuel lines +took out ball bearing gas check valve and replaced w/ a manual check valve +fresh gas +new plugs +new bulb + +Can't replicate problem in driveway.... + +i would appreciate any assistance!!!!!! + +mike","If the fuel system pans out to be ok. Check the temp of the engines while running. If the engine is not getting up to temp, you will get condensate in the combustion chamber and it will put the fire out. + +If the engine is getting up to temp, pull the carbs and blow the debris out backwards thru the float seat.","If the fuel system pans out to be ok. Check the temp of the engines while running. If the engine is not getting up to temp, you will get condensate in the combustion chamber and it will put the fire out. + +If the engine is getting up to temp, pull the carbs and blow the debris out backwards thru the float seat.","Hoo Hoo! This place is my new fav! +My friend suggested not to modify, glad i didn't - now I own more antique gear! Yay! Is this all American?, that'd be nice! +So I just picked up a tank with lines, all should be on the up and up now! Plus alot saved compared to the shop around the way! +Sorry - but, Thanx again!!! I have friends I will get to sign on here soon! + +One other question - I do I put a pic up for an avatar? Wanna show my lil jon boat off!" +"I'm at my wits end!! Am I missing something? + +details: +Engine: 1989 Yamaha V4 130 2 stroke +boat: 1989 19 ft Grady white tournament + +situation: engine seems starved for gas and higher RPM - under load +doesn't happen all the time (May happen more after I fill the tank?) +when it does- it will run at low speeds +And The bulb goes flat + + + +what I've done: +opened the gas cap when the problem happens - no help +replaced fuel filter +changed out the ""O"" ring +replaced fuel lines +took out ball bearing gas check valve and replaced w/ a manual check valve +fresh gas +new plugs +new bulb + +Can't replicate problem in driveway.... + +i would appreciate any assistance!!!!!! + +mike",It sound like your fuel system is clogged up. check the lines from one end to the other end if the fuel is constantly flowing or there are enough fuel flowing. It happened to me and it turn out to be a clogged fuel lines.,It sound like your fuel system is clogged up. check the lines from one end to the other end if the fuel is constantly flowing or there are enough fuel flowing. It happened to me and it turn out to be a clogged fuel lines.,"villtur said: + + + + But remember that your motor, or any motor for that matter, has only so many hphours. If you get more hp out of it then it's life will get shorter. + +Click to expand... + +Yes. that is part of the truth even if it were tuning programming, but in this case I just rewrite the program inside the ECU from original F60 to F50. This is the same as buy a new ECU. + +It can also be transcribed from F50 to F60, but whether it is someone like it" +"Hello, + New to the forum and was hoping for some advice on oil. I have owned a 1997 Yamaha 200 Saltwater Series II for about two years. I have been using the oil from walmart but it seems to be burning more than normal. The last batch was the Penzoil. My local dealer stated only use yamaha oil. I have a source at a good price for Sierra but cannot find a review. I believe on spending a few bucks more for quality if it will avoid future problem. Walmart site states the Pennzoil is synthetic but it smokes like crazy.",Anyone?,Anyone?,Well it looks like I'm wrong about the small jet with the rubber grommet. Will have to use a screw extractor I guess to get it out then buy a new jet and reinstall. +"This Motor is on a Party Barge & in the water, The Bat. Is fully charged, the motor was run about 3 or 4 weeks ago, every now and then in the past, I have noticed that when I turn the key to start the motor it would take a couple tries before it would get power to the starter and spend motor over, This time no such Luck, I just hear a faint click back at the motor + +I Have tried moving the Shift Lever but that has no effect, I am thinking it might be the starter Solenoid + +I can get to the motor by using my small fishing boat to get back there and pull the cover off, + +Can you tell me what I need to test & how to go about it,? +Can I do test for the problem & Fix it with out pull the Barge out, I have a trailer to load it on, Just will have tow the Barge a couple miles to a Boat Ramp to load it up + +Thanks for Any Help That You Can Give + +Lake Rat + +PS: I am 77",i am 75...it sounds like a battery problem or connection to the battery to me...if you hear the click of the solenoid it is not the neutral switch...the switch is in series with the solenoid...it could also be a badly corroded battery wire...this may not be obvious to the eye...it usually happens near the connection lug and is internal corrosion..you can take a knife and skin a little insulation back and look for grey matter(sometimes green)..you can also check the flexibility of the wires right at the lugs..corrosion will harden them...do you have a multi meter and know how to use it? ..if so a fully charged battery in good shape will read 12.7 volts...then you can look for a voltage drop between the positive post on the battery and the post on the starter post...keep in mind that you will only see the drop if you are pulling current...so you have to look for the drop while trying to start the engine...,i am 75...it sounds like a battery problem or connection to the battery to me...if you hear the click of the solenoid it is not the neutral switch...the switch is in series with the solenoid...it could also be a badly corroded battery wire...this may not be obvious to the eye...it usually happens near the connection lug and is internal corrosion..you can take a knife and skin a little insulation back and look for grey matter(sometimes green)..you can also check the flexibility of the wires right at the lugs..corrosion will harden them...do you have a multi meter and know how to use it? ..if so a fully charged battery in good shape will read 12.7 volts...then you can look for a voltage drop between the positive post on the battery and the post on the starter post...keep in mind that you will only see the drop if you are pulling current...so you have to look for the drop while trying to start the engine...,"In my Yamaha experience, alarm upon key turn is related to low cranking battery volts. The other immediate alarm trigger is low oil or the oil sensor firing a false positive due to bad conductivity within the oil harness." +"This Motor is on a Party Barge & in the water, The Bat. Is fully charged, the motor was run about 3 or 4 weeks ago, every now and then in the past, I have noticed that when I turn the key to start the motor it would take a couple tries before it would get power to the starter and spend motor over, This time no such Luck, I just hear a faint click back at the motor + +I Have tried moving the Shift Lever but that has no effect, I am thinking it might be the starter Solenoid + +I can get to the motor by using my small fishing boat to get back there and pull the cover off, + +Can you tell me what I need to test & how to go about it,? +Can I do test for the problem & Fix it with out pull the Barge out, I have a trailer to load it on, Just will have tow the Barge a couple miles to a Boat Ramp to load it up + +Thanks for Any Help That You Can Give + +Lake Rat + +PS: I am 77","Thanks papyson >< I will give That a check, I do have a multi meter, I will take good wire brush and polish up all the connections + +it will be a couple days before I can get back to that > < I will post back what Find + +Rat","Thanks papyson >< I will give That a check, I do have a multi meter, I will take good wire brush and polish up all the connections + +it will be a couple days before I can get back to that > < I will post back what Find + +Rat","Most likely, the problem is in the mic. How old is that radio? If it is more than 10 years old you should get a new one anyway because all the new ones have the DSC function ((Digital Selective Calling) installed. When hooked up to your GPS (via NMEA 0183 or NMEA 2000) that will provide your exact location to the Coast Guard when the distress switch is activated." +"Motor isn't peeing much. It runs out of the hole and runs down the shaft because of the lack of water pressure coming out. i have tried to clear the hole with a paper clip. Didn't help. The pick ups on the foot of the motor are clean as well. +Trying to see what to check next. I was told to check the thermostat. I'm not sure where to find that on this year motor (1987). Should i take the foot off and check the water pump? I think its fairly new though. +The pee hole goes in to the shaft and i'm not sure where it goes from there. I cant see any evidence of a tube leading to the pee hole under the cowling.",Try running something further into the pee hole... Weed trimmer line works well.,Try running something further into the pee hole... Weed trimmer line works well.,"yes I understand. + +the proper method of brakes both on same axle unfortunately thats not a option please reread post1. + +looks like I'm gonna wing it w/ one brake (I did purchase 2 brakes) but currently can only mount one. + +thanks I guess + +I think it's better to have one brake than none? remember my vessel/trailer is less than 3K LBs + +my new tow vehicle has 13"" front/rear disc brakes however it only weighs 4750LBs" +"Hi all, + I have a question regarding a 1989 yamaha 50esf-jd lower unit. This boat is my brother-in-laws and he has asked me to look at it for him. The shaft was broke in two down towards the bottom and damaged most of the parts in the lower end. I replaced everything from the engine housing oil seal down to the auger. New shaft, seals, water pump, I did not replace the bearing because I though it came in the kit I ordered but it did not and the bearing felt good. So my question is, after I put everything back together I test ran it with the hose connection for 2minutes and then I backed it in the water to give it a test run. I started it on the trailer and after less then a minute it died. After inspection I noticed that the auger was locked against the wear ring so back home I went. After removing the lower unit again I notice that all the new seals I just put in where all burnt and destroyed. It appears as though the shaft ""dropped"" down burning up the seals and then locking the auger to the wear ring. The shaft bearing thrust ring was also ground almost flush with the shaft. All seals, and lower unit was filled with grease during/after instalation. Can anyone explain what I may have done wrong to cause the shaft to ""drop down"" as it did. Is it the bearing that actually holds the shaft up? Thanks for any help.",?????,?????,Pull up the lever half way and see what happens. +"Hi, +I own a 1989 Yamaha 200 hp outboard. I've had it since new. Just replaced the lower unit last week. The lower unit went bad only due to no gear grease. My bad. During replacement, everything went well and seemed to line up properly and bolt back together with out a problem. However, after I fired it up, I could not get the lower unit to engage either forward or reverse. What did I not do right? +Steven B +California","Steven B said: + + + + Hi, +I own a 1989 Yamaha 200 hp outboard. I've had it since new. Just replaced the lower unit last week. The lower unit went bad only due to no gear grease. My bad. During replacement, everything went well and seemed to line up properly and bolt back together with out a problem. However, after I fired it up, I could not get the lower unit to engage either forward or reverse. What did I not do right? +Steven B +California + +Click to expand... + + +Steve, +Have the same motor. You failed t0 connect the shifter cable. You can see the female end I you look up at the bottom of your engine. Coming off your gear casing is the male end connect those and your good to go Any questions? I can help you out [email protected]","Steven B said: + + + + Hi, +I own a 1989 Yamaha 200 hp outboard. I've had it since new. Just replaced the lower unit last week. The lower unit went bad only due to no gear grease. My bad. During replacement, everything went well and seemed to line up properly and bolt back together with out a problem. However, after I fired it up, I could not get the lower unit to engage either forward or reverse. What did I not do right? +Steven B +California + +Click to expand... + + +Steve, +Have the same motor. You failed t0 connect the shifter cable. You can see the female end I you look up at the bottom of your engine. Coming off your gear casing is the male end connect those and your good to go Any questions? I can help you out [email protected]","I emailed Yamaha Aust they gave the below response and included parts diagrams from 2005 for a 40XWTL +2 65W-43880-00 MOTOR ASSY 1 being the part No.... That doesn't seem to help and doesn't coincide with US Model part number, so it seems they use different part numbers, maybe the same part?????? +[FONT="]The US model is here so assuming the first two numbers mean nothing????? +67C-43880-00-00, 67C-43880-01, 67C-43880-01-00[/FONT]... + +67C438800000, 67C4388001, 67C438800100 + + +Hi Michael, + +We have attached parts diagram for the trim motor assembly. + +Supersession Part number, Item 2 - Motor Assembly is 65W-43880-01. + +Unfortunately, there is no equivalent year model in the US due to the +introduction of legislated EPA regulations around this period. + +Hope this helps. + +Kind Regards, + +Technical Support Officer (Marine) +YAMAHA MOTOR AUSTRALIA + +67C438800000, 67C4388001, 67C438800100" +"So last trip went was 60 miles to destination. About 40 miles out it just stalled? It fired right back up and made it all the way. Thought maybe i pulled on the kill switch lanyard, was hoping actually. No issues all day running around the island. On our way to barn died at about 10 miles, fired right up made it a mile or so, died. The longer we let it rest the further we'd make it after starting. Did this til 20 mi of port but just kept getting worse. So fired up the kicker and made it 10 miles before vessel asist got to us. Anyway just changed all fuel filters. Water separator, element filter looked fine but VST was clogged, tried blowing into it and no flow until I blew a little more and cleared it out. So I thought that was it and intalled a new one. Tried it today with almost certainty It was good, but nope only went about 2 miles then started happening. I tried squeezing the primer bulb while out there and afted a few pumps it would stay squezed? When I got home,after another tow, I tried the bulb again with the cover off and it worked like normal, I could see the flow in the element filter which was just a little low and hear the vst filling up. It filled up and the bulb got hard. So next I'm gonna try the low pressure fuel pumps but I read somewhere that if the bulb got hard and there most likely ok? Anyway, I just wanted to see what anyone can tell me based on all this info here in my short story. Does it sound like the pumps? Could it be the primer bulb? Should I have replaced the element filter even though it wasnt restricted it all.. I almost passed out testing it, not too smart! I hope its not the main pump in the vst but could it be. Oh yeah, I cleaned the oxygen sensor out but it wasnt bad the sensor itself was clean and dry , a little gunk on the sniffer though. Thanks for ANY help or info out there guys!! Be safe!",Removed the low pressure pumps without disconnecting hoses. Squeezed primer bulb and bottom pump leaking. Will replace all 3 and test again,Removed the low pressure pumps without disconnecting hoses. Squeezed primer bulb and bottom pump leaking. Will replace all 3 and test again,The clicking is normal. Isc valve resetting. Check all your connections and tps settings. +"I have a 2003 Yamaha F200 and have an issue regarding throttle once the engine has been running for about ½ hour. It will warm up and run for about 30 minutes, but if I stop and restart the engine or come back to an idle for some time I can no longer take it past about 3000 rpm or use any more than about ½ throttle – the engine labours and pulls back to about 2000 rpm and will only let me pull up past 3000 rpm very slowly over about 5 minutes. + +I recently had rusty water in the fuel, so I have already done the following: +· Serviced all injectors and their baskets +· Cleaned out entire fuel rail system of contamination (I have even pressure on both sides) +· All filters/separators have been replaced +· Flushed all fuel lines and primer bulb +· New high pressure fuel pump (old one had rusted due to water in fuel) +· Flushed fuel tank +· New spark plugs +I am lost as to what else it could be…any advise would be greatly appreciated!I have a 2003 Yamaha F200 and have an issue regarding throttle once the engine has been running for about ½ hour. It will warm up and run for about 30 minutes, but if I stop and restart the engine or come back to an idle for some time I can no longer take it past about 3000 rpm or use any more than about ½ throttle – the engine labours and pulls back to about 2000 rpm and will only let me pull up past 3000 rpm very slowly over about 5 minutes. + +I recently had rusty water in the fuel, so I have already done the following: +· Serviced all injectors and their baskets +· Cleaned out entire fuel rail system of contamination (I have even pressure on both sides) +· All filters/separators have been replaced +· Flushed all fuel lines and primer bulb +· New high pressure fuel pump (old one had rusted due to water in fuel) +· Flushed fuel tank +· New spark plugs +I am lost as to what else it could be…any advise would be greatly appreciated!","""Serviced all injectors and their baskets"" + +Who did this for you? Were the injectors professionally cleaned and flowed?","""Serviced all injectors and their baskets"" + +Who did this for you? Were the injectors professionally cleaned and flowed?","What is wrong with the single lever control you have now?If it works , just put new cables in it. Cables don't last forever . +Straight up on this page it says ""Boat Accessories"" with a blue flag by it, +put your mouse pointer on that and a list will pop down, click on ""STEERING AND CONTROLS"" +Lots of parts there. + +Click to expand... + + +1. The neutral safety switch is broken, the electronic housing is cracked and a wire terminal broke off from the inside. Sure I can solder it back on and glue tape the housing. Or just solder the grounds together and jump it all together and run the risk of putting it in gear at the wrong time +2. I've never used this shifter before not entire sure how it work. I'm sure with new cables on it I could figure it out. I can only push in the shifter lever when the throttle lever is in a certain spot and then I move the shifter and it pops in in gear ( forward, reverse I do not know yet) +3. If I'm going to spend close to $100 on new cables then I would like to know if there is another controller all together I might be able to use instead. Most likely used because new ones sure ain't cheap. + +i have no engine brackets for the cable, just a morse shifter and one locked up shifter cable, no throttle cable" +"I have a 2003 Yamaha F200 and have an issue regarding throttle once the engine has been running for about ½ hour. It will warm up and run for about 30 minutes, but if I stop and restart the engine or come back to an idle for some time I can no longer take it past about 3000 rpm or use any more than about ½ throttle – the engine labours and pulls back to about 2000 rpm and will only let me pull up past 3000 rpm very slowly over about 5 minutes. + +I recently had rusty water in the fuel, so I have already done the following: +· Serviced all injectors and their baskets +· Cleaned out entire fuel rail system of contamination (I have even pressure on both sides) +· All filters/separators have been replaced +· Flushed all fuel lines and primer bulb +· New high pressure fuel pump (old one had rusted due to water in fuel) +· Flushed fuel tank +· New spark plugs +I am lost as to what else it could be…any advise would be greatly appreciated!I have a 2003 Yamaha F200 and have an issue regarding throttle once the engine has been running for about ½ hour. It will warm up and run for about 30 minutes, but if I stop and restart the engine or come back to an idle for some time I can no longer take it past about 3000 rpm or use any more than about ½ throttle – the engine labours and pulls back to about 2000 rpm and will only let me pull up past 3000 rpm very slowly over about 5 minutes. + +I recently had rusty water in the fuel, so I have already done the following: +· Serviced all injectors and their baskets +· Cleaned out entire fuel rail system of contamination (I have even pressure on both sides) +· All filters/separators have been replaced +· Flushed all fuel lines and primer bulb +· New high pressure fuel pump (old one had rusted due to water in fuel) +· Flushed fuel tank +· New spark plugs +I am lost as to what else it could be…any advise would be greatly appreciated!","All of the above works were carried out by my local Yamaha service shop, they sent the injectors off to be cleaned and flowed by an injector spe******t. + +The only other thing I can think of that hasn't been replaced is the lift pump???","All of the above works were carried out by my local Yamaha service shop, they sent the injectors off to be cleaned and flowed by an injector spe******t. + +The only other thing I can think of that hasn't been replaced is the lift pump???","Took the boat out today for a test and it performed better than it has in the past. We did run into a few issues..... + +1. While going through a section of no wake are the high temp alarms came on.- The t-stats are still out as well as the poppet. Will be ordering those soon and this should fix this issue. + +2. While running at WOT we started to trim the engine and get more speed. At one point the boat surges ahead and the speed greatly increases. It took me by surprise. Then all of a sudden the engine dies. I figured we broke something. tried restarting and it does start but dies after going into gear. Does this few times and then I notice the glass fuel filter is empty. So I pump the bulb several times, it refills and then restarted the motor and all seemed fine. It dies this few times, so I can only assume there is a fuel delivery issue. I think its not drawing enough fuel.-- again new fuel pumps and new lines. 3/8"" fuel lines. I plan to test again but what do you guys think? + +3. While running at 3/4 throttle every now and then you can feel a ""miss"" or ""hiccup"" in the engine. Would this be fuel or spark issue? + +4. The boat is a 1992 Hydrosport 17' bass boat. + +5. I do not have a tach hooked up to this motor. The boat does have one and it was working with an older eventide that was removed from it. Can I use the current tach with this Yamaha?" +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?","I had a similar problem on my 1999 Sx150TXRX. Once I hit around 40 mph the alarm would sound. Water pump and thermostats were all good, engine was mounted correctly also. + +My motor is a saltwater motor and I bought it in Florida where it was used often. + +The problem was; the water passages had a lot of saltwater buildup, scaly so to speak. I used vinegar and water, I sprayed it, let it soak a bit, then scraped it off with a scraper and wire brush. Fixed the problem! + +Take the outer cover (cooling covers) off your cylinder heads and check for buildup. You will need new gaskets for the covers.","I had a similar problem on my 1999 Sx150TXRX. Once I hit around 40 mph the alarm would sound. Water pump and thermostats were all good, engine was mounted correctly also. + +My motor is a saltwater motor and I bought it in Florida where it was used often. + +The problem was; the water passages had a lot of saltwater buildup, scaly so to speak. I used vinegar and water, I sprayed it, let it soak a bit, then scraped it off with a scraper and wire brush. Fixed the problem! + +Take the outer cover (cooling covers) off your cylinder heads and check for buildup. You will need new gaskets for the covers.",If its on the exhaust side it is the idle relief hole....hope you have a machine shop. +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?",How about servicing the water bypass.,How about servicing the water bypass.,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + When does it begin to alarm? + +Assuming alarm is not oil level related, if alarm triggers when key is turned to ON, then likely volt issue. Check your starting battery is holding full charge. + +When engine will not throttle over 2k with alarm...this is called limp mode, to protect engine from further damage. + +Click to expand... + + +Not really. Limp mode indicates to many that one can ""limp"" home with the motor not running well. Nothing is further from the truth. If and when the buzzer sounds and the motor is running at reduced RPM's the motor should be turned off immediately. If not sooner. + +Technically it is known as RPM reduction mode. As to say, to help protect the engine from further damage. But the operator has a big part to play as well. + +Many have tried to limp home to their peril." +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + How about servicing the water bypass. + +Click to expand... + + +What is the water bypass and where is it? I have a manual. Thanks for chiming in. I'd really like to figure this out and the Service Pros have failed 3x at fixing this issue. + +Thanks!","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + How about servicing the water bypass. + +Click to expand... + + +What is the water bypass and where is it? I have a manual. Thanks for chiming in. I'd really like to figure this out and the Service Pros have failed 3x at fixing this issue. + +Thanks!","hardrider5 said: + + + + Fuel System Problem 2002 F225 Yamaha twins (700 hours) on a Parker 2520 +I’m a Master Auto Tech and decided to write this so I might be able to save others some time and expense. I launched my boat a couple weeks ago and while the engines were warming up, one died from a fuel system issue. If we pumped the fuel line bulb it would restart and then die again after a couple minutes. About ten minutes later the second engine died with the same symptoms. +I was pretty sure this could not be fuel pump failures especially on twin engines 10 minutes apart. So the testing began. It started with checking the feed pump fuses which were good. I was told to listen for the low pressure pumps coming on for 10 seconds after the key was turned on. I heard pumps running. I was told to check the pressure of the high pressure pumps and both tested good at 38 – 40 PSI. Fuel pressure would drop in half as the engine neared stalling. So now I was sure it had to be either bad fuel or the fuel supply system and I started down a path of unnecessary repairs trying to cure the problem. +I took samples of fuel and let it stand to see if water was a problem. I even tested the alcohol level. Both water separator filters were replaced with the clear bottom filters so they could be drained. Both engine filters were replaced. I replaced both fuel lines from the tank to the filters. I punched out the one way valves the fuel lines attached to at the tank. I measured and cut the fuel tank pickup tubes because they were originally installed a little too long. I was sure this would fix the problem and after all that I discovered none of the listed changes did a thing. Both engines died exactly as they had before I did a thing. +You may be asking yourself why I did not run a separate tank of fuel before all this and I will tell you I did. Put a piece of cut fuel hose into a 5 gallon gas can and attached the other end to one of the water separator filters and started the motor after pumping the bulb. That engine continued to run. After discovering the actual problem I’m sure the 5 gallon can set on the stern of the boat was feeding the fuel line with fuel from a siphon effect. +So after working on this boat for a couple days I decided to remove enough parts from the engine to gain access to these low pressure pumps and guess what I found. Both low pressure pumps were dead. The pump noise I had heard at the beginning were the high pressure pumps and the low pressure pumps were silent. Removal of the pumps and hot wiring them also showed they would not pump at all. I’m still at a loss to understand how two separate pumps on two different engines fail within 10 minutes of each other but they did. Both engines had 700 hours and both had failed pumps. I’m attaching photos to help others try to avoid the same waisted time. I’ve read allot of posts about this problem but have read none indicating the findings and correction. Good Luck !! My problem has been solved. +Had I taken this to a good shop like West Coast they would have found the problem quickly but with Yamaha pumps listing out at $500 each plus labor I’m still pretty happy spending about $500 total with the aftermarket pumps costing me $160 ea. Time will tell if that was a good decision and now I know where the components are located should I have a future failure of either pump or VST issues. I educated myself learning more about my boat and that is a good thing in my book. + +Good Luck. It was pretty easy after finding the real problem. + +Click to expand... + + +Update - well the new pumps are holding up fine into a second season. First trip out this season I had one engine not exceeding 2500 RPM. Took VST apart on that engine and found the screen full of very fine red material. Cleaned the screens on both motors and replaced the small ""filters"" on top of VST. Engines run fine again." +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?",Year and model number?,Year and model number?,"Thanks for the reply but one thing I forgot to mention (sorry!). When I reconnect the fat red wire coming from the starter back to the battery, the console lights and gauges come on. About 15 seconds after that is when the buzzers sounds. This would be the exact behavior if I were to just turn the ignition key on and not start the engine." +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?","docksidemarineservices said: + + + + year and model number? + +Click to expand... + + + +1992 p150tlrq","docksidemarineservices said: + + + + year and model number? + +Click to expand... + + + +1992 p150tlrq","Try using a different search engine....in the mean time, try this: + +http://www.yachtsurvey.com/GasDiesel.htm" +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?",Bypass or pop-it is between the cylinder heads on the back of the engine on the starboard side down low. Two 10mm bolts and a hose connect to the cover. You will see it.,Bypass or pop-it is between the cylinder heads on the back of the engine on the starboard side down low. Two 10mm bolts and a hose connect to the cover. You will see it.,"Finish doing the prep using the instructions from the two part polyurethane you decide to use. Follow the recommendations exactly as far as primer prep and topcoat. Thinners, temps and coat thickness will make a big difference in the final product. You can do a gloss overcoat but it is very important with cure times and temps once you start spraying figure on three days with no longer than 10-12hrs between coats for good adhesion. Lots of thin coats is much better than one or two thick coats." +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?","Your problem is identical to the problem I had on my SX150 as I commented earlier. Only difference is you say it happens at rpm and I noticed mine by speed. + +If the water bypass was malfunctioning (sticking closed) you would have the same issue at lower rpm/speed. The bypass would already be fully open well open around 2500 +/- rpm. + +FYI, the bypass works likes this. +If it was stuck open, at lower speed you may run hot/overheat because it is bypassing more water around the cylinders than allowing the cooling water to flow up thru the cylinders. +If was sticking shut at higher rpms, you probably wouldn't notice and most likely wouldn't overheat! +At higher speeds, the bypass opens to relieve excess water pressure in the heads and helps keep the exhaust cooler, again, you probably wouldn't overheat. + +In a nutshell, if wp, tstats and bypass are all working fine, no matter what you do, if the cooling passages are scaled up, the water just cannot remove the heat at higher rpms. The scaling prevents it. + +Hope this helps you out","Your problem is identical to the problem I had on my SX150 as I commented earlier. Only difference is you say it happens at rpm and I noticed mine by speed. + +If the water bypass was malfunctioning (sticking closed) you would have the same issue at lower rpm/speed. The bypass would already be fully open well open around 2500 +/- rpm. + +FYI, the bypass works likes this. +If it was stuck open, at lower speed you may run hot/overheat because it is bypassing more water around the cylinders than allowing the cooling water to flow up thru the cylinders. +If was sticking shut at higher rpms, you probably wouldn't notice and most likely wouldn't overheat! +At higher speeds, the bypass opens to relieve excess water pressure in the heads and helps keep the exhaust cooler, again, you probably wouldn't overheat. + +In a nutshell, if wp, tstats and bypass are all working fine, no matter what you do, if the cooling passages are scaled up, the water just cannot remove the heat at higher rpms. The scaling prevents it. + +Hope this helps you out",Most any universal sender should work how deep is the fuel tank? adid you confirm the sender was bad? Turn the ignition switch on and short the two wires to the sender together and the guage should read full? +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?","The scaling sounds like it may be the culprit. Even though the motor has only been in fresh water, the scaling still happens? +So, Trynhooker, did you use a small drill bit to ream out the tiny holes? +Also, on the replacement gaskets... are they dry and you need to use some type of adhesive along with the gaskets? +See photo for torque specs. Is this correct? 5.8 ft.lbs seems awfully light, but if there is sealant involved, makes sense. + +Thanks again for your input. I sure hope this solves my overheating issue.","The scaling sounds like it may be the culprit. Even though the motor has only been in fresh water, the scaling still happens? +So, Trynhooker, did you use a small drill bit to ream out the tiny holes? +Also, on the replacement gaskets... are they dry and you need to use some type of adhesive along with the gaskets? +See photo for torque specs. Is this correct? 5.8 ft.lbs seems awfully light, but if there is sealant involved, makes sense. + +Thanks again for your input. I sure hope this solves my overheating issue.","Most likely just the cover had residual water in it and froze and cracked. +To check R/R is to test diodes in it with a multimeter. If the R/R is cracked (the housing or the hard plastic sealer) it may be bad." +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?",Until you remove the bypass and inspect it for proper operation...........do not do anything else yet. You can test the other theory afterwards.,Until you remove the bypass and inspect it for proper operation...........do not do anything else yet. You can test the other theory afterwards.,Bump.. +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?","If the torque specs you listed are from the manual for your engine I assume they should be correct (don't have book with me). Just make sure you follow the pattern and torque to 2.9 following the order then go back and go to 5.8. Go slow as to not snap a bolt. +I didn't use any drill bits to clean. Use something like a small punch/etc., to clean out the holes. Preferably something like brass that's a softer metal and won't do any damage etc. + +Your manual should say whether or not to use a sealant on those gaskets. I use the Johnson/Evinrude stuff in the small can with the brush attached to the cap. It's real sticky/gooey stuff and it helps make a good seal on some gaskets. Can't rem the name off hand lol + +NEVER use it on head gaskets however! Your book should show which gaskets use sealants etc. + +Something I didn't see in your original post. You say it's been happening a long time. Do you mean since you've had the boat? +If so, tilt the motor down straight down/horizontal, then make sure the cavitation plate on the lower unit is even with the bottom/keel of your boat. There are 2 plates on the lower unit. The one that sticks out the back is the cavitation plate. Or the one right above the trim tab.. +As you go faster, the boat rides higher off the water and if the engine is too high, it will cause the water pump inlet to be higher on the surface possibly sucking in air. + +And by all means, since your checking these things, check what Docks suggested! His theory may be your issue as well. Everything is a theory until it fixes the problem! + +I use this site to view diagrams etc if you can't find one or need to blow the pics up to see better. Just change to your exact engine tho. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1999/SX150TLRX/CYLINDER CRANKCASE 2/parts.html","If the torque specs you listed are from the manual for your engine I assume they should be correct (don't have book with me). Just make sure you follow the pattern and torque to 2.9 following the order then go back and go to 5.8. Go slow as to not snap a bolt. +I didn't use any drill bits to clean. Use something like a small punch/etc., to clean out the holes. Preferably something like brass that's a softer metal and won't do any damage etc. + +Your manual should say whether or not to use a sealant on those gaskets. I use the Johnson/Evinrude stuff in the small can with the brush attached to the cap. It's real sticky/gooey stuff and it helps make a good seal on some gaskets. Can't rem the name off hand lol + +NEVER use it on head gaskets however! Your book should show which gaskets use sealants etc. + +Something I didn't see in your original post. You say it's been happening a long time. Do you mean since you've had the boat? +If so, tilt the motor down straight down/horizontal, then make sure the cavitation plate on the lower unit is even with the bottom/keel of your boat. There are 2 plates on the lower unit. The one that sticks out the back is the cavitation plate. Or the one right above the trim tab.. +As you go faster, the boat rides higher off the water and if the engine is too high, it will cause the water pump inlet to be higher on the surface possibly sucking in air. + +And by all means, since your checking these things, check what Docks suggested! His theory may be your issue as well. Everything is a theory until it fixes the problem! + +I use this site to view diagrams etc if you can't find one or need to blow the pics up to see better. Just change to your exact engine tho. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1999/SX150TLRX/CYLINDER CRANKCASE 2/parts.html","Thanks ClassicAQ! + +Yes I removed the pilot and main jets. I took the whole thing completely apart, sprayed every hole (including the teeny tiny ones) and soaked it. Since then I've only used ethanol-free premium. + +The bulb is relatively hard at low throttle, then it becomes soft at higher throttle. It doesn't collapse, but it also doesn't have any pressure on it. When I pump it (at high throttle), the engine runs just the slightest bit better, but still acts like it's running out of gas." +"This has been happening for awhile and it seems only to happen when going 4500 rpm or higher. +I can run at 3500 and alarm never sounds. I just spent $1000 dollars at the dealership where they put in a new impeller, water pump & 2 new thermostats. +Still happening. I shot video this time and noticed the psi gauge is definitely loosing pressure when up on plane. I took heat readings from each cylinder side and noticed the port side was 10 degrees warmer. The motor was peeing out the side just fine. In my research on this forum I stumbled upon this previous post. I have PM the original post member hoping he can elaborate on this fix. The post was done 5 years ago so I am reaching out to anyone else who would be willing to help. My last trip out, even at 3500 rpm the alarm went off but took awhile. When I do WOT, it alarms within a minute. + +I'm going nuts trying to figure this out and the so-called $100 per hour experts are not able to figure it out. + +""I have recently struck a consession of Yamaha outboards with similar cocerns to yours. After replacing t/stat and water pumps, i found in all 4 cases, yes 4, that the water tube from the pump to the lower end of the power head, was corroded where is has the rubber grommet around it. It is nessesary to remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe, but it is not a difficult nor time consuming repair. +Hope this may help."" + +I need more specifics on how to do this ""remove the g/box and lower leg to replace this pipe"". + +Does the lower unit need to drop? +Is the g/box the black cover on the front side of motor? +What is the ""lower leg""?",Curious if you resolved the issue?,Curious if you resolved the issue?,Remove the tube from the motor.--------Split the tube with a grinder.-------------------Perhaps salvage the cable.------------Replace the tube and intall a steering cable ( new or existing ) into it. +I have a YAMAHA Digital Multi-function Speedometer Gauge and the hose barb water tube broke off the back of the gauge. Can this be replaced? If so how do I get in the gauge and what part number do I need to order?,"The gauge is not considered as a repairable item. There are no replacement parts available for it. + +If you look at the back of the case you will see four rounded projections. If you take a Dremel or similar tool you can grind these off. Then, you can pry the front of the display and the innards from the case. You might then find a way to attach a hose to whatever piece of the original tube that might remain. Put the case back on the gauge and use a dab of superglue on each of the parts that ground off.","The gauge is not considered as a repairable item. There are no replacement parts available for it. + +If you look at the back of the case you will see four rounded projections. If you take a Dremel or similar tool you can grind these off. Then, you can pry the front of the display and the innards from the case. You might then find a way to attach a hose to whatever piece of the original tube that might remain. Put the case back on the gauge and use a dab of superglue on each of the parts that ground off.","I have the exact same bearings as the other side , and the other side is good. I pulled +the driver side off to see if I was missing anything. And Kim I have bearing buddies, I just hadn't put it back on when I took this video." +"Hi to all. My name is Eddie besides being new on the site, I'm having engine issues. I have an 2002 Yamaha 2002. I bought the oil mixer and installed it. Now I get this buzzing sound when In turn the start switch ( link to video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3xsdhxfWPs&feature=youtu.be ) +Any ideas to what can be wrong will be appreciated. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3xsdhxfWPs&feature=youtu.be","What part are you calling an ""Oil Mixer""? What work did you actually do. It sounds like you have a low oil warning (could be temperature as well), but not sure what you have actually been changing/installing.","What part are you calling an ""Oil Mixer""? What work did you actually do. It sounds like you have a low oil warning (could be temperature as well), but not sure what you have actually been changing/installing.",the only place I know of that deals a lot with those engines is skidim-dot-com. they used to offer an ignition system alternative that would bolt right on to the GT-40's....look them up and ask. there may be some other 'newer' info on some of the boat model specific sites - planetnautique (sp?) comes to mind... +"Hi to all. My name is Eddie besides being new on the site, I'm having engine issues. I have an 2002 Yamaha 2002. I bought the oil mixer and installed it. Now I get this buzzing sound when In turn the start switch ( link to video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3xsdhxfWPs&feature=youtu.be ) +Any ideas to what can be wrong will be appreciated. + +https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3xsdhxfWPs&feature=youtu.be","Yes, what in the heck is an ""oil mixer"". + +A 2002 150 Yamaha should have come with an automatic oil transfer and injection system. You add oil to a remote tank and the system does all the work for you from there. + +If the kill switch has been activated then the warning buzzer will sound if the key is turned to the start position. The motor will crank, but not start, and the buzzer will sound.","Yes, what in the heck is an ""oil mixer"". + +A 2002 150 Yamaha should have come with an automatic oil transfer and injection system. You add oil to a remote tank and the system does all the work for you from there. + +If the kill switch has been activated then the warning buzzer will sound if the key is turned to the start position. The motor will crank, but not start, and the buzzer will sound.","Thanks for info.yes it takes motor oil..all the lines are missing .is this unit worth anything to sell,or is it obsolete now thanks." +"need some info guys! i recently bought me a 1999 15 hp honda, the motor is in excellent condition with only 10 hrs of use. the motor starts up second pull everytime, but there seems to be a problem with it idling correctly, i think it might be the tiller arm as he had just replaced it with a new one. when i try to give it gas it's like there is hardly any throttle it barely moves from slow to start but can't get past start to full throttle? And at the carb i can push the throttle over like a half inch more with my finger, but the tiller only goes so far. the rod connected to the carb throttle, i've tried to adjust but it doesn't help. any ideas? also, i need to know what each adjustment is for on this carb? i know the bottom one drains the gas, & top with the spring is the idle adjustment? but the one on the side is for? any input would be appreciated!",sorry guys.. i posted in the wrong forum...,sorry guys.. i posted in the wrong forum...,"Hamfisted said: + + + + Hello ! Yes, it's been a long time. What motor are you working on ? Can you get any stainless wire to pass into the outlet nipple? Stainless leader wire is a good tool for this. The water jacket itself can't really be disassembled, but you can remove some plates and covers to gain access to limited areas. Your best bet is to work to get a wire or small drill bit to be able to pass into the outlet nipple and free up whatever is blocking. Running the motor in a tub of fresh water and white vinegar is a good way to do a mild sediment flush on the motor. The CLR is a more aggressive way to clean out the water jacket, but you have to be sure to get a good fresh water flush out after using it. + +Click to expand... + + + +Awesome! I will try those things and see if I have luck. I've been on TheHullTruth forum as well with bunch of suggestions (some of them repetitive as the responders don't always read the whole thread). I'll see if this has any good results and let you know. Thanks a bunch!! -Mike" +"Local repair shop (not a yamaha dealer) tells me I have a leaking seal or hose under the power head. However, it's still cooling the motor fine and moving a lot of water. Only fresh water use. He says it will cost $600-$700 for him to remove the power head to fix this, so he recommends not bothering. What do you think? + +steve",check the cooling cover gasket on the side of the crankcase. maybe the bottom of the gasket is leaking into the cowling and appears to be from somewhere else. there are 2 gaskets in there because there is an inner cover and an outer cover,check the cooling cover gasket on the side of the crankcase. maybe the bottom of the gasket is leaking into the cowling and appears to be from somewhere else. there are 2 gaskets in there because there is an inner cover and an outer cover,"fisherman421 said: + + + + I'm new to the forum but have read several posts in the past and successfully used some of the advise given. Thanks in advance. +I purchased a used Sea Hunt 186 with a Yamaha 115 2 stroke both 2003 at the end of last year and launched on Saturday Jun 6 2015, with fresh high test gas. Motor runs fine above 1500 RPM but stalls below 1200 and will not come to idle. Starting it at high rev then putting into gear the motor stalls. We got in ok but was a little nerve wracking. Also burned 10 gallons in about an hours and a half cruising at around 1500 to 2000 RPS inside water way. Basically going slow not on plane. Water separator filter has been replaced, fuel filter emptied and screen cleaned, new plugs gaped at .039. Going to look at the idle mix adjustments 5/8s. Any and all comments would greatly be appreciated. + +Click to expand... + + +OLD POST: +trying to reach out to everyone that has carb issues on the 1980's thru early 2000's Yamaha 2 stroke v4 115. HOPEFULLY this will help any future owners figuring out what their carb issue is. It took me quite some messing around, trial and error, etc., to figure this out. + +I finally narrowed the poor idle, bog, stalling, issue. The below process is ONLY for LOW SPEED. If you have mid or top end bog, you have clogged main jets! They are found in the fuel bowl (bottom of carb) area. This how to will NOT cover mid/top end bog. + +SIMPLE HOW TO: +On the top of each carb you'll see TWO brass plugs. These must be removed, as well as the idle mixture screws (2 on each carb). Under teh brass plugs you will see FOUR small holes in each open area. I use a small welding rod tip to clean each opening. Be careful. Spray carb cleaner or similar to aid in cleaning. +NEXT, at the opening where the choke butterflies are, on TOP you will see TWO jets. These must be removed and cleaned. I also use a welding rod tip to clean out the junk. Spray carb cleaner as well. + +Reassemble. Factory calls for 5/8 turns out on each mixture screw. + +I battled the ""lean sneeze"" carb backfire/stall issue for quite some time. Finally figured out which part of the carb controlled LOW SPEED/IDLE. +Lean sneeze is where you hear a pop in the carb area when idling. Sometime the motor would stall, sometimes not. Seemed to run better on partial choke. + +---------------- +Now if you have a bog when going to full throttle or mid range, you likely have a main jet(s) that are clogged. They are located at the LOWER end of the carbs. OTHER ISSUES CAN BE: clogged fuel filter, weak fuel pump, collapsed fuel line/internal part of fuel line. ALL of which I had replaced when I was trying to figure stuff out. + +I must say that these yamaha carbs have been the most finicky carbs I've ever owned. They seem like they constantly get gummed up with old fuel. ANd I use E0 - non ethanol. Sometimes seems I'm wasting my time with E0. The good news is, I can have both carbs out, cleaned, and re-installed in just over an hour. + +Hope this brief HOW TO helps folks." +"Local repair shop (not a yamaha dealer) tells me I have a leaking seal or hose under the power head. However, it's still cooling the motor fine and moving a lot of water. Only fresh water use. He says it will cost $600-$700 for him to remove the power head to fix this, so he recommends not bothering. What do you think? + +steve","trynhooker said: + + + + check the cooling cover gasket on the side of the crankcase. maybe the bottom of the gasket is leaking into the cowling and appears to be from somewhere else. there are 2 gaskets in there because there is an inner cover and an outer cover + +Click to expand... + + +Interesting, I'm not sure which cover you are referring to though. At this link for the upper casing would this be part 29 or 31 labeled ""Apron""? + +http://www.yamaha-motor.com/partvie...TBOARD_MOTORS)/UPPER_CASING_(T9.9ELRD_-_2005) + +thanks for your help! + +steve","trynhooker said: + + + + check the cooling cover gasket on the side of the crankcase. maybe the bottom of the gasket is leaking into the cowling and appears to be from somewhere else. there are 2 gaskets in there because there is an inner cover and an outer cover + +Click to expand... + + +Interesting, I'm not sure which cover you are referring to though. At this link for the upper casing would this be part 29 or 31 labeled ""Apron""? + +http://www.yamaha-motor.com/partvie...TBOARD_MOTORS)/UPPER_CASING_(T9.9ELRD_-_2005) + +thanks for your help! + +steve","I will get out the hair dryer. +Thanks for input." +"Local repair shop (not a yamaha dealer) tells me I have a leaking seal or hose under the power head. However, it's still cooling the motor fine and moving a lot of water. Only fresh water use. He says it will cost $600-$700 for him to remove the power head to fix this, so he recommends not bothering. What do you think? + +steve","Oh, wait, I think you are talking about parts 8 and 9 in this drawing: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/partvie..._MOTORS)/CYLINDER_CRANKCASE_(T9.9ELRD_-_2005) + +Let me take a look. This should be accessible so I can see if it is leaking while running? + +steve","Oh, wait, I think you are talking about parts 8 and 9 in this drawing: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/partvie..._MOTORS)/CYLINDER_CRANKCASE_(T9.9ELRD_-_2005) + +Let me take a look. This should be accessible so I can see if it is leaking while running? + +steve","Right now I'm just about to place an order for everything on the list from boat.net for the service maintenance for this engine plus the timing belt to be on the safe side. Will definitely be looking for the service manual for sure, love to have one every time I get a new toy. Doing an oil and gear oil change too plus all the anodes for fresh water. Almost $500 in total, that hurts." +"Local repair shop (not a yamaha dealer) tells me I have a leaking seal or hose under the power head. However, it's still cooling the motor fine and moving a lot of water. Only fresh water use. He says it will cost $600-$700 for him to remove the power head to fix this, so he recommends not bothering. What do you think? + +steve","correct, pieces 8, 9 and 10. You might be able to see under there while it's running on the flush rig. You might need a telescoping mirror to see clearly","correct, pieces 8, 9 and 10. You might be able to see under there while it's running on the flush rig. You might need a telescoping mirror to see clearly","Sorry, it is an 115 hp engine" +"Local repair shop (not a yamaha dealer) tells me I have a leaking seal or hose under the power head. However, it's still cooling the motor fine and moving a lot of water. Only fresh water use. He says it will cost $600-$700 for him to remove the power head to fix this, so he recommends not bothering. What do you think? + +steve","trynhooker said: + + + + correct, pieces 8, 9 and 10. You might be able to see under there while it's running on the flush rig. You might need a telescoping mirror to see clearly + +Click to expand... + + +Well, it appeared to be dry in that area. Family wanted to use the boat this weekend so I went ahead and put it in. The normal stream is flowing very fast so it's clearly getting cooled well. I'm going to keep an eye on it and as long as it doesn't change in September I'll haul it to a guy that I trust a little further away who told me it was only a $200 fix. This is used on a relatively small private lake so even if one of the kids overheat it, they can phone someone to come get them and if it gets toasted I'll buy a new motor. + +thanks + +steve","trynhooker said: + + + + correct, pieces 8, 9 and 10. You might be able to see under there while it's running on the flush rig. You might need a telescoping mirror to see clearly + +Click to expand... + + +Well, it appeared to be dry in that area. Family wanted to use the boat this weekend so I went ahead and put it in. The normal stream is flowing very fast so it's clearly getting cooled well. I'm going to keep an eye on it and as long as it doesn't change in September I'll haul it to a guy that I trust a little further away who told me it was only a $200 fix. This is used on a relatively small private lake so even if one of the kids overheat it, they can phone someone to come get them and if it gets toasted I'll buy a new motor. + +thanks + +steve","Brian silk said: + + + + I cannot find that number in the catalogue. What is the timer called ? It should not matter . As long as it is using its internal temp sensor. I apologise if I missed your original post. Being the guru.I am rub ragged at this time of year. + +Click to expand... + +Many thanks Brian for your reply. I attach pics of the timer. I believe it is 701 10 0005. 12.1 volt was taken while the heater was running. I only ran the heater for about 15 minutes. I have since purchased a new glow plug. I will be back at the boat over the weekend and will do some further running tests. I will probably fit the new glow plug. Will keep you updated .:rolleyes:" +"Hi all, anyone know where to get a service manual for a 2002 +15 hp service manual? + +Thanks, + +T","Any Yamaha dealer or from Yams supplier, Crestec.","Any Yamaha dealer or from Yams supplier, Crestec.","a good brand of two stroke oil would be amsoil johnson manufacturer recommends the johnson 50:1 lubricant johnson also says if you cant find this that any BIA,TC-W or TC-2 certified lubricant my be used but i have always used the amsoil for all of my 2-strokes and it works wonderfully burns clean and does not leave carbon build up and i personally love the smell it gives off it just smells like it is burning clean and i have never had any problems with build up on any power valves, reeds, pistons or cylinder heads" +I have a 2010 F70 outboard. I was changing the gear oil today and it came out kind of milky and when I refilled the gear oil it slowly leaked out of the water intake vents. Through research it sounds like the shift shaft seal is bad. Is this a simple fix? Can anyone walk me through it? I'm pretty handy but don't have a service manual so I'm not sure which seal it is. Thanks for your help.,"there are seals on the shift shaft, lower water pump cover, prop shaft. If oil leaked as you stated, it could be shift shaft or water pump seals. +If you have no experience doing this, get a manual so you can see. Or..support you local legitimate small business man and let him do the work..","there are seals on the shift shaft, lower water pump cover, prop shaft. If oil leaked as you stated, it could be shift shaft or water pump seals. +If you have no experience doing this, get a manual so you can see. Or..support you local legitimate small business man and let him do the work..",Johnson / Evinrude have had a very simple / successful electric primer valve on motors from 9.9 to 300 HP.---Used since 1980 or so.------A competent individual can easily add one to any other brand of motor.-----There are lots of used ones around. +Idling seems to high- how can I lower it- any help would be appreciated.,You can't. The idle is computer controlled. An idle air control valve is used in conjunction with the engine control unit to control the idle RPM. See your Yamaha mechanic.,You can't. The idle is computer controlled. An idle air control valve is used in conjunction with the engine control unit to control the idle RPM. See your Yamaha mechanic.,What lever? +Idling seems to high- how can I lower it- any help would be appreciated.,"boscoe said: + + + + You can't. The idle is computer controlled. An idle air control valve is used in conjunction with the engine control unit to control the idle RPM. See your Yamaha mechanic. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks for that information -","boscoe said: + + + + You can't. The idle is computer controlled. An idle air control valve is used in conjunction with the engine control unit to control the idle RPM. See your Yamaha mechanic. + +Click to expand... + +Thanks for that information -",Sounds like an ignition miss.---------------Use a timing light to see which cylinder.--------Do a compression test also. +Idling seems to high- how can I lower it- any help would be appreciated.,"where as the idle speed is computer controlled, if the throttle cable/lever isn't adjust properly, it could be forcing your throttle to pull on the throttle linkage i.e., causing the idle to seem too high. Or as one might say, throttling up the engine. + +Disconnect the throttle cable, make sure all the linkages are all the way back to the idle position. start the engine and see if the idle goes down. If it does, hold the throttle cable up beside where it connects, it should fit right on without having to pull the lever or adjust the cable length. If it doesn't fit, the cable is not adjusted correctly.","where as the idle speed is computer controlled, if the throttle cable/lever isn't adjust properly, it could be forcing your throttle to pull on the throttle linkage i.e., causing the idle to seem too high. Or as one might say, throttling up the engine. + +Disconnect the throttle cable, make sure all the linkages are all the way back to the idle position. start the engine and see if the idle goes down. If it does, hold the throttle cable up beside where it connects, it should fit right on without having to pull the lever or adjust the cable length. If it doesn't fit, the cable is not adjusted correctly.",Compression is solid and was in the low 120's on all three cylinders. Motor actually has ver very low hours and has just sat outside for that long. Everything on the motor has been fully serviced but I do agree that it does not sound or feel as if all 3 cylinders are firing. Plugs are new but have pulled them several times and the cyl 2 plug is always pretty oily especially compared to #1 and 3. +"Greetings, + +this is my first post and I am looking for help on a two year old pain in my side + +I have a 99 F50 that came with the analog tach and T/T gauges and the 703 remote + +I upgraded my boat 2 years ago and in the process of transferring the motor to the new one, I unhooked the gauges without paying attention to how they were wired up, thinking it would be simple plug and play but it hasn't been. It seems no matter what combination I try I can not get the gauges to work fully, so I am turning to you guys to help + +From the 703 there is solid colored wires: Black, Blue, Yellow, Green + +On the Tach: the blue and black wires attach via bullet connectors to the black and blue from the 703. +T/T: Blue and black also attach via bullet connectors. + +Each gauge has a snap connector, so those connect. + +Tach: Green, black and yellow wires connect to the corresponding 703 colored wires + +That leaves me with two yellow wires with red stripes coming out of each gauge and a black with red stripe wire coming out of the harness that connects the gauges. + +It seems no matter which combination I try to hook them up in the T/T gauge either reads all the way high or no reading at all. + +The tach has worked, the back lights work. But the T/T hasn't and the oil light that would light up with key on hasn't. + +Thanks for any help +Eric",This is the Yamaha way. I have no idea what brand tachometer or trim meter you have.,This is the Yamaha way. I have no idea what brand tachometer or trim meter you have.,Many thanks for the well written post. I will try that at my earliest opportunity- the control box is still in my boat and it is presently under a rather large amount of snow although covered over and protected. +"Hi everyone. I have a problem. I have a 1989 yam Pro 50 LG. 3 carb, 3 cyl. The top cylinder is defiantly getting fuel and fire but is not ""working"" lol... I am a rookie boat mechanic at a local marine shop so I have checked all of the basics. all 3 cylinders are at 113,115,114 from top to bottom. I know carbs are clean because I went through them yesterday trying to figure this problem out and they look fine All linked and synced back up I put new plugs in it (because the top plug was really soaked in oil and gunk, and it ran really good again for about 12 miles today then started this again.. Like I say... I am a rookie boat mechanic so I know a little... have about 2 years hands on, under my belt. I have a big catfish tournament coming up...any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks for any replies! Oh one more thing... It will crank and idle rough on the muffs, but in water with the back pressure, I have to throttle it way up to crank and it will not idle at all.",Not familiar with that model but I know the link & sync needs to be performed with the exhaust in the water with the back pressure that creates.,Not familiar with that model but I know the link & sync needs to be performed with the exhaust in the water with the back pressure that creates.,"I have a Four Winns 195 Sundowner and she wont accept fuel. I read some previous postings about the vent but where the heck is mine? I have a cream coloured flattish cap on the transom but cannot seem to recognize what everyone tells me I should be seeing....Is it inside the tube where I put the gas or is it separate? I have looked outside, inside etc and Dont know what I am looking for.....Help!" +"Hi everyone. I have a problem. I have a 1989 yam Pro 50 LG. 3 carb, 3 cyl. The top cylinder is defiantly getting fuel and fire but is not ""working"" lol... I am a rookie boat mechanic at a local marine shop so I have checked all of the basics. all 3 cylinders are at 113,115,114 from top to bottom. I know carbs are clean because I went through them yesterday trying to figure this problem out and they look fine All linked and synced back up I put new plugs in it (because the top plug was really soaked in oil and gunk, and it ran really good again for about 12 miles today then started this again.. Like I say... I am a rookie boat mechanic so I know a little... have about 2 years hands on, under my belt. I have a big catfish tournament coming up...any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks for any replies! Oh one more thing... It will crank and idle rough on the muffs, but in water with the back pressure, I have to throttle it way up to crank and it will not idle at all.","On muffs, there is no back pressure. If you set the idle on muffs fuel will not be enough to keep the engine running in the water. Quick fix which you asked for in a pinch... crank up the idle RPM on muffs and then hit the water. See if that works.","On muffs, there is no back pressure. If you set the idle on muffs fuel will not be enough to keep the engine running in the water. Quick fix which you asked for in a pinch... crank up the idle RPM on muffs and then hit the water. See if that works.","Check the shift switch, you will need a computer to check it out. If the motor does not get a signal from it when starting up then when u put it it in gear and add RPM’s it will start to drop cylinders until it will bog out and die. If u don’t have a computer then u will need to look at the little switch by the shift slide, it should be pushed in when in neutral and open when in gear. They are a pain in the but to do without a computer because u don’t know if it’s on or off" +"Hi everyone. I have a problem. I have a 1989 yam Pro 50 LG. 3 carb, 3 cyl. The top cylinder is defiantly getting fuel and fire but is not ""working"" lol... I am a rookie boat mechanic at a local marine shop so I have checked all of the basics. all 3 cylinders are at 113,115,114 from top to bottom. I know carbs are clean because I went through them yesterday trying to figure this problem out and they look fine All linked and synced back up I put new plugs in it (because the top plug was really soaked in oil and gunk, and it ran really good again for about 12 miles today then started this again.. Like I say... I am a rookie boat mechanic so I know a little... have about 2 years hands on, under my belt. I have a big catfish tournament coming up...any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks for any replies! Oh one more thing... It will crank and idle rough on the muffs, but in water with the back pressure, I have to throttle it way up to crank and it will not idle at all.","OK y'all... I lied... well my gauge did... I am on a new compression gauge now and I'm showing 65, 120,116 from top to bottom... If I am correct, this motor has no valves that can be stuck open so to cause that much compression drop on cylinder 1, I'm looking at possibly Head gasket, Hole in piston, scored or stuck rings.....My question is, what else can cause this motor to loose compression besides all of these things? I want to start with the easier stuff before tearing my motor down. Thanks again guys for ANY info... my tournament is this sat. and this is gonna be a DIY for me....","OK y'all... I lied... well my gauge did... I am on a new compression gauge now and I'm showing 65, 120,116 from top to bottom... If I am correct, this motor has no valves that can be stuck open so to cause that much compression drop on cylinder 1, I'm looking at possibly Head gasket, Hole in piston, scored or stuck rings.....My question is, what else can cause this motor to loose compression besides all of these things? I want to start with the easier stuff before tearing my motor down. Thanks again guys for ANY info... my tournament is this sat. and this is gonna be a DIY for me....","This could very well be a thermoswitch issue, giving the high temp false alarm." +"Hi everyone. I have a problem. I have a 1989 yam Pro 50 LG. 3 carb, 3 cyl. The top cylinder is defiantly getting fuel and fire but is not ""working"" lol... I am a rookie boat mechanic at a local marine shop so I have checked all of the basics. all 3 cylinders are at 113,115,114 from top to bottom. I know carbs are clean because I went through them yesterday trying to figure this problem out and they look fine All linked and synced back up I put new plugs in it (because the top plug was really soaked in oil and gunk, and it ran really good again for about 12 miles today then started this again.. Like I say... I am a rookie boat mechanic so I know a little... have about 2 years hands on, under my belt. I have a big catfish tournament coming up...any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks for any replies! Oh one more thing... It will crank and idle rough on the muffs, but in water with the back pressure, I have to throttle it way up to crank and it will not idle at all.","Can't be a hole in the piston. Probably shot rings and hopefully not a scored cylinder but they tend to go together. Put a few good squirts of oil in the cylinder and test compression again. If pressure jumps, bad news... re-ring at best, re-ring to the next size up and and re-bore of the cylinder at worst which is costly. Not worth a re-bore of a cylinder on an engine that age in my opinion unless you have a friend who can turn a block.","Can't be a hole in the piston. Probably shot rings and hopefully not a scored cylinder but they tend to go together. Put a few good squirts of oil in the cylinder and test compression again. If pressure jumps, bad news... re-ring at best, re-ring to the next size up and and re-bore of the cylinder at worst which is costly. Not worth a re-bore of a cylinder on an engine that age in my opinion unless you have a friend who can turn a block.",Sounds like the cable from the engine to your console and controls may have an issue. Start with a meter and check the lines from the switches to see if the lines are intact to the motor. also check all points on the main cable to make sure there are no hot spots (short) or serious kinks that may have caused a break in the wires. I would also check your kill switch again look for continuity when you have the clip in place. +"I have a 1992 2 stroke 115 hp that starts up but does not run over 10 mph at full throttle until I have traveled about a mile on the water. Fuel pump has been replaced carbs checked and adjusted. Started to do this last year. Have had it to a yamaha mech three times and spent nearly $900. and the problem is still there. He said everything checks out, even sea trailed it twice. He found two screws loose on the cdi module and tightened them said that could be it. It wasn't the fix I needed. Could a coil be bad and working once it warms up? Does the cdi module need replaced?","Usually the issues that arise when things heat up are the opposite of the problem you're having i.e. coils heat up then start mis firing etc. +Have you tried running the engine with a portable fuel tank? That's an easy way to rule out any problems with the installed fuel tank (if you have one). +Are the thermostats installed?","Usually the issues that arise when things heat up are the opposite of the problem you're having i.e. coils heat up then start mis firing etc. +Have you tried running the engine with a portable fuel tank? That's an easy way to rule out any problems with the installed fuel tank (if you have one). +Are the thermostats installed?", +"I have a 1992 2 stroke 115 hp that starts up but does not run over 10 mph at full throttle until I have traveled about a mile on the water. Fuel pump has been replaced carbs checked and adjusted. Started to do this last year. Have had it to a yamaha mech three times and spent nearly $900. and the problem is still there. He said everything checks out, even sea trailed it twice. He found two screws loose on the cdi module and tightened them said that could be it. It wasn't the fix I needed. Could a coil be bad and working once it warms up? Does the cdi module need replaced?",Is the engine getting up to running temp?,Is the engine getting up to running temp?,"ClassicAQ said: + + + + 1st.....never ever never ever run up ur rpms in neutral. Any thing above 1500 and ur asking for trouble. Doing so provides no diagnostic value or outcome, thus is useless. + +When in gear ear and throttling up if the engine sounds deep throaty then this is fuel related, most likely clogged jet(s). Pull carbs, pull jets, soak, clear....check floats to spec, reassemble. + +Click to expand... + + +Yup your right I should of never run the engine that high in neutral. I did have the carbs pulled apart and soaked in seafoam/ gas as the carbs were gummed up then reassembled . The same problem persists , when I throttle up in gear it sounds like it's only running on a couple of cylinders then it cuts out and doesn't sound throaty . The mechanic I'm using seems to think electrical problem as its intermittent any other ideas would be helpful." +"I have a 1992 2 stroke 115 hp that starts up but does not run over 10 mph at full throttle until I have traveled about a mile on the water. Fuel pump has been replaced carbs checked and adjusted. Started to do this last year. Have had it to a yamaha mech three times and spent nearly $900. and the problem is still there. He said everything checks out, even sea trailed it twice. He found two screws loose on the cdi module and tightened them said that could be it. It wasn't the fix I needed. Could a coil be bad and working once it warms up? Does the cdi module need replaced?","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Is the engine getting up to running temp? + +Click to expand... + +Yes the motor warms to proper temp. Motor runs good with muffs. Sink and link, timing spark and compression all good. Had 2 loose screws on cdi. Tightened and still doesn't run when launched. Coil harness, starter, trigger ok.","Docksidemarineservices said: + + + + Is the engine getting up to running temp? + +Click to expand... + +Yes the motor warms to proper temp. Motor runs good with muffs. Sink and link, timing spark and compression all good. Had 2 loose screws on cdi. Tightened and still doesn't run when launched. Coil harness, starter, trigger ok.","I've flushed the engine with a hose after every use since I'm on saltwater. When connecting with that hose adapter is shoots the water through quite strong so that doesn't seem clogged at that point. Maybe clogged down lower? + +(Forgive my ignorance, I'm learning)" +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.",you do have a problem...the motor will run but the time to fix it is now to prevent heavy expense later..take a reading with a cold engine...take a reading with a warm/hot engine..take a reading after adding a little oil to the low piston...record all these readings and get back to us...,you do have a problem...the motor will run but the time to fix it is now to prevent heavy expense later..take a reading with a cold engine...take a reading with a warm/hot engine..take a reading after adding a little oil to the low piston...record all these readings and get back to us...,"Good for you! Just learn everything you can about the boat, motor, and outdrive. At some point in time you will be stuck on the water. Most times, it is something you can fix on the spot if you know your boat." +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.",How much oil do you usually pour in the cylinder for the wet test?,How much oil do you usually pour in the cylinder for the wet test?,"Same fuel tank. Separate squeeze-bulbs. Separate Racor filters. + +I have not touched the plugs and I do not know how to read the codes. Can you enlighten me on that? Will a standard OBD reader work? If not, what do I need? + +Sorry, FNG with these engines. Long time inboard guy. Will read read read in an attempt to learn as much as possible." +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.",couple of squirts from a small oil can..you want enough to get to the edges of the piston...you are actually checking for a worn ring or cylinder..was the #4 the last cylinder checked?the reason i ask was the battery turning the motor strongly and at the same rpm as the others?retake the readings with a strong battery and do #4 first...if the reading are the same you are going to have to pull the head and see whats going on if you decide to address the problem now.......,couple of squirts from a small oil can..you want enough to get to the edges of the piston...you are actually checking for a worn ring or cylinder..was the #4 the last cylinder checked?the reason i ask was the battery turning the motor strongly and at the same rpm as the others?retake the readings with a strong battery and do #4 first...if the reading are the same you are going to have to pull the head and see whats going on if you decide to address the problem now.......,"Reply back with your engines model/year. Where exactly are you seeing the water leak? Junction of apron and upper casing? Is there water leaking inside the bottom cowling, or is the water leak only seen exterior? Pictures help too." +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.","I retested cylinder 4. It was 175 cold, 175 hot, and 185 with a couple squirts of oil. I didn't recheck the other 3 cylinders yet since they all read the same in the initial tests. I haven't done a leak down test yet. It'll probably have to wait for this weekend.","I retested cylinder 4. It was 175 cold, 175 hot, and 185 with a couple squirts of oil. I didn't recheck the other 3 cylinders yet since they all read the same in the initial tests. I haven't done a leak down test yet. It'll probably have to wait for this weekend.","Yes circuit breakers i have. I do know to unhook the batts when hooking to a charger. This alt is only 37amp im also thinking its to small really for charging a starting battery and 2 trolling batts. I also know that a Alt will not keep the trolling batts up but it will help. So im thinking a 65amp delco style would be a better choice and that style i do know how to hook up properly. +On the current Alt there are 4 wires connected +Orange B+ +2 Black - One goes directly to engine block the other to? I assume common ground for gauges? +One Purple from the regulator that says Resistor. Again i assume resistor on the coil. The Purple wire is hooked to the same post as the Red Regulator wire." +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.",Has valve clearance been checked since the motor was new ?,Has valve clearance been checked since the motor was new ?,Remove the carb and check it carefully for loose fuel line connections- the needle valve also might not be seating properly and is causing flooding. +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.","I don't really know. I was going to check the valves this weekend before I did a leak test. + +I just bought the pontoon boat/motor from a neighbor a few weeks ago before family came to visit so I'd have something big enough to take out the whole family. Was running a 16' CC with a 50hp before that. My neighbor had the boat serviced at a local marina about 1-1/2 years ago and put 52 hours on it since then. They did all the fluids, impeller, etc. Don't know if they checked the valves though. The motor has a total of 509 hours on it. The last several months he put it in the water long enough to run and warm up the motor, then flushed it. + +I took the boat out for a full days fishing while family was here and it ran fine and sounded good. Went night fishing one night and smelled gas when I got back to the dock. It was spraying gas from behind the carbs. Pulled carb assembly, found two hose leaks and replaced all the fuel hoses. Put the carbs back on, and it sounded different to me, almost like it was missing. Thought I might have to clean the carbs, so I decided to make sure everything else was sound before tearing the carbs apart, and got the funky compression numbers.","I don't really know. I was going to check the valves this weekend before I did a leak test. + +I just bought the pontoon boat/motor from a neighbor a few weeks ago before family came to visit so I'd have something big enough to take out the whole family. Was running a 16' CC with a 50hp before that. My neighbor had the boat serviced at a local marina about 1-1/2 years ago and put 52 hours on it since then. They did all the fluids, impeller, etc. Don't know if they checked the valves though. The motor has a total of 509 hours on it. The last several months he put it in the water long enough to run and warm up the motor, then flushed it. + +I took the boat out for a full days fishing while family was here and it ran fine and sounded good. Went night fishing one night and smelled gas when I got back to the dock. It was spraying gas from behind the carbs. Pulled carb assembly, found two hose leaks and replaced all the fuel hoses. Put the carbs back on, and it sounded different to me, almost like it was missing. Thought I might have to clean the carbs, so I decided to make sure everything else was sound before tearing the carbs apart, and got the funky compression numbers.",Let us know what you found and how you fixed it. +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.",I had hoped the valves would need adjusting but they were actually pretty tight. All intake valves measured 007 or 008 and all the exhaust valves measured 011. Didn't get to do the leak down yet.,I had hoped the valves would need adjusting but they were actually pretty tight. All intake valves measured 007 or 008 and all the exhaust valves measured 011. Didn't get to do the leak down yet.,"delmo777 said: + + + + I'm pretty sure it's a 170 mercruiser but I have to delve in a bit more, the motor is missing the valve covers so I'm not sure, could be 200 mercruiser. + +Click to expand... + + +The 200 Mercruiser would be the only version to have a 4bbl carb. on it" +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.","From what I've read, the 10 psi increase from 175 to 185 psi on cylinder 4 indicates a ring or valve issue in that cylinder. Could decarbonizing the motor possibly help this situation?","From what I've read, the 10 psi increase from 175 to 185 psi on cylinder 4 indicates a ring or valve issue in that cylinder. Could decarbonizing the motor possibly help this situation?","Ahh, above the water line you may be okay, just a bit difficult to get the shine from the rattlecans. (or are you talking about rolling it?)" +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.","Now I'm really confused. My compression readings show 210,210,210,175 for cylinders,1,2,3,& 4. Cylinder 4 checked at 175 psi cold, 175 psi warm and increased to 185 psi after I added 2 squirts of oil to the cylinder, which I believe indicates a ring or valve issue on cylinder 4. The leak down test shows leakage around 2-4% for cylinders 1,2 and 4 and I can hear a slight his through the oil filler cap. I can NOT pressurize cylinder 3. Cylinder 3 will not hold any pressure and it's leaking 100% through the carbs. I can't get any closer to the motor to isolate it since this motor is on a pontoon boat on a lift and I don't have a trailer. + +How am I getting 210 PSI of compression on cylinder 3 when I can't get it to hold any pressure for the leak down test, not even 10-15 psi? I've read a leak through the carbs would mean something bad on the intake side, intake valve, seat, etc. + +The motor actually sounds like it's running good, but I have not taken it out on the water. I wanted to try to figure out was possibly wrong with the motor I case it was bad enough that I should quit running it and work on fixing it instead.","Now I'm really confused. My compression readings show 210,210,210,175 for cylinders,1,2,3,& 4. Cylinder 4 checked at 175 psi cold, 175 psi warm and increased to 185 psi after I added 2 squirts of oil to the cylinder, which I believe indicates a ring or valve issue on cylinder 4. The leak down test shows leakage around 2-4% for cylinders 1,2 and 4 and I can hear a slight his through the oil filler cap. I can NOT pressurize cylinder 3. Cylinder 3 will not hold any pressure and it's leaking 100% through the carbs. I can't get any closer to the motor to isolate it since this motor is on a pontoon boat on a lift and I don't have a trailer. + +How am I getting 210 PSI of compression on cylinder 3 when I can't get it to hold any pressure for the leak down test, not even 10-15 psi? I've read a leak through the carbs would mean something bad on the intake side, intake valve, seat, etc. + +The motor actually sounds like it's running good, but I have not taken it out on the water. I wanted to try to figure out was possibly wrong with the motor I case it was bad enough that I should quit running it and work on fixing it instead.","As you pass through TDC, intake and exhaust valves should not be transitioning and moving.. so if you see one closing and one starting to open as you pass through TDC, that's wrong. So I would check each set independently. As for aligning both sets, there are marks on the timing chains and the camshaft sprockets for each set. So you line those up, then you just align the hash marks on the driven sprockets after you put them back in the head." +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.","The answer is the idiot with the gauges. I rechecked the results above twice, with two different sets of leak-down gauges. Decided this still didn't make any sense so went to redo all the readings one more time and noticed while I was pressurizing the cylinder that the flywheel moved, taking the cylinder off TDC. So this time I locked down the flywheel before I pressurized the cylinder. + +So now the leak down results are less than 5% on all four cylinders. I expected to see a higher leak down rate on cylinder 4. + +What does it mean to have low compression but good leak down numbers?","The answer is the idiot with the gauges. I rechecked the results above twice, with two different sets of leak-down gauges. Decided this still didn't make any sense so went to redo all the readings one more time and noticed while I was pressurizing the cylinder that the flywheel moved, taking the cylinder off TDC. So this time I locked down the flywheel before I pressurized the cylinder. + +So now the leak down results are less than 5% on all four cylinders. I expected to see a higher leak down rate on cylinder 4. + +What does it mean to have low compression but good leak down numbers?","If you cannot find a make or model number a picture will do. Depending on which helm you have, I use a company that does factory rebuilds." +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.","newboater67 said: + + + + What does it mean to have low compression but good leak down numbers? + +Click to expand... + + +Could be that a cylinder is scored but the scoring is below the piston rings when the piston is at top dead center. When the piston is at top dead center for a differential pressure check the piston rings are preventing any leakage that would be apparent below the piston rings. A score will cause less compression build up when a piston is dynamically tested versus when it is tested statically via a differential pressure check. + +I personally don't think that having one cylinder at 175 psi while the others are at 210 constitutes a major issue. How does the motor run? Is there blowby or high oil consumption? If not, the motor may be just fine. I think the three cylinders having 210 psi (seems too high) is a bigger issue than one cylinder having 175 psi (seems more normal). Was a calibrated gauge used for the compression check?","newboater67 said: + + + + What does it mean to have low compression but good leak down numbers? + +Click to expand... + + +Could be that a cylinder is scored but the scoring is below the piston rings when the piston is at top dead center. When the piston is at top dead center for a differential pressure check the piston rings are preventing any leakage that would be apparent below the piston rings. A score will cause less compression build up when a piston is dynamically tested versus when it is tested statically via a differential pressure check. + +I personally don't think that having one cylinder at 175 psi while the others are at 210 constitutes a major issue. How does the motor run? Is there blowby or high oil consumption? If not, the motor may be just fine. I think the three cylinders having 210 psi (seems too high) is a bigger issue than one cylinder having 175 psi (seems more normal). Was a calibrated gauge used for the compression check?","Yes, in some outboards it can be really tricky to get the water pipe to mate cleanly with the water pump. Once I also had the rubber grommet get pushed into the pipe so be really careful with that connection. Try shining a torch in until the gap is too small to see. An extra pair of hands really helps here. + +Stuart" +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.","Thanks for the reply boscoe. + +The motor seems to run fine. No blowby and doesn't consume oil. The gauges are not calibrated. I use an OTC 5605 compression test kit and an OTC 5609 leakage test kit which are DIY test kits. + +I decided to pop the flywheel to check the crankshaft timing mark against the cam pulleys and it was off a couple teeth. I made sure they were set correctly and checked the carb sync which was off, so I resync'ed the carbs. Then I set the TPS to the correct voltage at 900 RPM and took it out for a run. + +It runs good, accelerates and decels properly. It's on a 25ft pontoon boat. It was too windy and choppy to open it up to full throttle, but ran without any issues to around 4000-4500 RPM. Have to wait for a better day to give it a good long run at different RPMs and see how it performs. + +I just bought the boat a month ago. I know the previous owner only used regular Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. I was thinking of putting some hours on it with a tank of enriched ring free plus and stabil marine, and then rechecking the compression and leakage. It may be okay. I just didn't want to risk blowing the motor if there was something that need to be addressed now. + +Thanks Again, +Bob","Thanks for the reply boscoe. + +The motor seems to run fine. No blowby and doesn't consume oil. The gauges are not calibrated. I use an OTC 5605 compression test kit and an OTC 5609 leakage test kit which are DIY test kits. + +I decided to pop the flywheel to check the crankshaft timing mark against the cam pulleys and it was off a couple teeth. I made sure they were set correctly and checked the carb sync which was off, so I resync'ed the carbs. Then I set the TPS to the correct voltage at 900 RPM and took it out for a run. + +It runs good, accelerates and decels properly. It's on a 25ft pontoon boat. It was too windy and choppy to open it up to full throttle, but ran without any issues to around 4000-4500 RPM. Have to wait for a better day to give it a good long run at different RPMs and see how it performs. + +I just bought the boat a month ago. I know the previous owner only used regular Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. I was thinking of putting some hours on it with a tank of enriched ring free plus and stabil marine, and then rechecking the compression and leakage. It may be okay. I just didn't want to risk blowing the motor if there was something that need to be addressed now. + +Thanks Again, +Bob",Thank you. I will start looking into that. +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.","newboater67 said: + + + + I just bought the boat a month ago. I know the previous owner only used regular Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. I was thinking of putting some hours on it with a tank of enriched ring free plus and stabil marine, and then rechecking the compression and leakage. It may be okay. I just didn't want to risk blowing the motor if there was something that need to be addressed now. + +Thanks Again, +Bob + +Click to expand... + + +Good idea. + +Low compression from wear will seldom blow a motor. The wear obviously will increase with time and the compression will get worse to the point that the motor may not start easily, idle properly or run well. I ran a 1962 Ford Falcon with low low compression for a number of years. Smoked like hell from the breather tube because of oil getting past worn piston rings and into the combustion chamber. Other than the smoking, and the use of more oil consumption than normal, it ran well. It never did blow. I finally scrapped the car when I got the money to upgrade to a 1965 Ford Falcon. Those were the days. + +Test again after you have fifty or so hours on the motor and let us know the results.","newboater67 said: + + + + I just bought the boat a month ago. I know the previous owner only used regular Sta-bil fuel stabilizer. I was thinking of putting some hours on it with a tank of enriched ring free plus and stabil marine, and then rechecking the compression and leakage. It may be okay. I just didn't want to risk blowing the motor if there was something that need to be addressed now. + +Thanks Again, +Bob + +Click to expand... + + +Good idea. + +Low compression from wear will seldom blow a motor. The wear obviously will increase with time and the compression will get worse to the point that the motor may not start easily, idle properly or run well. I ran a 1962 Ford Falcon with low low compression for a number of years. Smoked like hell from the breather tube because of oil getting past worn piston rings and into the combustion chamber. Other than the smoking, and the use of more oil consumption than normal, it ran well. It never did blow. I finally scrapped the car when I got the money to upgrade to a 1965 Ford Falcon. Those were the days. + +Test again after you have fifty or so hours on the motor and let us know the results.","Burnblaze said: + + + + hey so I found the oil tank connection, was tied up underneath the block. I forgot to ask what the blue cable with the bullet connection is for, have you seen this? + +Click to expand... + +Blue is the wire colour for a solenoid activated choke. Which your model does not have. Thus the wire is not used. Redundant." +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.",That's funny. I had a blue Ford Falcon convertible in my JR year of high school. Can't remember the year though (of the car). That motor blew a year later and I bought a 65 MG Midget for $75 that wouldn't start because the starter was stuck in the flywheel.,That's funny. I had a blue Ford Falcon convertible in my JR year of high school. Can't remember the year though (of the car). That motor blew a year later and I bought a 65 MG Midget for $75 that wouldn't start because the starter was stuck in the flywheel.,"I suggest you post your question on the Mercury outboard forum on this site. At the top left on this page, click on ""Forum Home"", then click on ""Mercury""." +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.","I'll toss my simple 2 cents in... If the engine is running and performing well from idle throughout the entire RPM range and you aren't losing or ""making"" oil, I wouldn't start taking things apart right away as you could do more harm than good by breaking seals, unseating the head gasket, etc. that are all still unbroken from the factory. With 509 hours on the engine, it should still be a strong engine as these engines are built like car engines these days usually good for at least 2000 hours with proper treatment and maintenance. One old mechanic told me to think about it this way... Take your hours and multiply by 40 as in 40 MPH average speed you use you car between city/hwy. That would give you the equivalent of a car engine with 20K miles on it. Take that and multiply by 2 because unlike a car that rolls on wheels, an outboard pushing a boat through water is like driving a car up Mount Everest all the time. So you have about 40K ""car"" miles on the outboard. Most of these engines have a life of 2000 hours which puts you at 160,000 ""car"" miles or about the life of a car engine before it's time to consider stopping repairs and buying a new one. Seemed to make sense to me!","I'll toss my simple 2 cents in... If the engine is running and performing well from idle throughout the entire RPM range and you aren't losing or ""making"" oil, I wouldn't start taking things apart right away as you could do more harm than good by breaking seals, unseating the head gasket, etc. that are all still unbroken from the factory. With 509 hours on the engine, it should still be a strong engine as these engines are built like car engines these days usually good for at least 2000 hours with proper treatment and maintenance. One old mechanic told me to think about it this way... Take your hours and multiply by 40 as in 40 MPH average speed you use you car between city/hwy. That would give you the equivalent of a car engine with 20K miles on it. Take that and multiply by 2 because unlike a car that rolls on wheels, an outboard pushing a boat through water is like driving a car up Mount Everest all the time. So you have about 40K ""car"" miles on the outboard. Most of these engines have a life of 2000 hours which puts you at 160,000 ""car"" miles or about the life of a car engine before it's time to consider stopping repairs and buying a new one. Seemed to make sense to me!",Will carburetors behave the same with mixed fuel ? +"I got compression results of 210, 210, 210, and 175 PSI, on a 2003 Yamaha F90TLRB (61P L 1000850). The service manual says compression should be a minimum of 135 PSI. Do I have a problem with cylinder #4? I'm new to this but everything I've read says they should be within 10% of each other.","Thanks to everyone for your replies. It would seem I'm back to a fuel leak, where this all started to begin with. I thought I was going to have to tear down the carbs, so did all the mechanical checks first and had the compression/leak down results. + +Originally had leaking carbs and found two holes in the check valve hoses to the back of carbs 3 & 4. Reterminated the check valve hoses and replaced all the fuel hoses since they were showing their age on the inside of the hoses. + +Took it out last night and it ran fine but it was too choppy to get over 4000-4500 RPM. Took it out again this morning and it ran fine for awhile, then I could hear and see the RPMs dropping off on the tach, then pick up, drop off, etc. + +Got back to the dock and have fuel leaking from the carbs again. Have the boat on a lift and no trailer so I can't get really close to the motor to tell exactly where it's leaking from, but it looks like it's down the backside of carbs 3 and/or 4 again. Didn't really feel like popping the carbs again today, so will leave it for another day and come back with a better attitude. + +Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll be the black hoses from the check valve again.","Thanks to everyone for your replies. It would seem I'm back to a fuel leak, where this all started to begin with. I thought I was going to have to tear down the carbs, so did all the mechanical checks first and had the compression/leak down results. + +Originally had leaking carbs and found two holes in the check valve hoses to the back of carbs 3 & 4. Reterminated the check valve hoses and replaced all the fuel hoses since they were showing their age on the inside of the hoses. + +Took it out last night and it ran fine but it was too choppy to get over 4000-4500 RPM. Took it out again this morning and it ran fine for awhile, then I could hear and see the RPMs dropping off on the tach, then pick up, drop off, etc. + +Got back to the dock and have fuel leaking from the carbs again. Have the boat on a lift and no trailer so I can't get really close to the motor to tell exactly where it's leaking from, but it looks like it's down the backside of carbs 3 and/or 4 again. Didn't really feel like popping the carbs again today, so will leave it for another day and come back with a better attitude. + +Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll be the black hoses from the check valve again.","""won't start in neutral till you put a few revs on"" + +What does ""put a few revs on"" mean. Are you saying that the motor has to be cranked for a long period of time before it starts? + +There is nothing in a Yamaha F115 that is known as a ""striker plate"". What ever that might be. There is nothing in a Yamaha known as ""trigger plate"" either. + +My suggestion (you asked) is to find a mechanic that is knowledgeable with respect to the Yamaha F115." +"Hi, I am looking for some opinions. I am looking at a ZX300TXRC VMax engine on e-bay. It is a supposedly mostly fresh-water engine with about 230 hours, of which 50% are less than 2000 rpms. My plan is to put this engine on a 2001 Boston Whaler 210 Ventura. (The boat is about 3500 lbs dry with a 100-gallon fuel tank.) I am not after high speed, just a lot of torque and reliability. So my main question is this -- do these engines have a reputation for reliability? I have had numerous Yamaha outboards before, but they were all carbureted. In fact, I just sold my last Whaler with twin 200HP 1989 Yamahas that run so sweet I almost hated to let the boat go. So this is my first foray into the HPDI world. Bottom line -- if used sensibly and taken care of, can I expect a fairly long and trouble-free life with this engine? Thanks in advance. ---WhalerAce","Reliability = less than average. + +Long life = it will be a gamble + +Problem = usually detonation will take out a cylinder. More than likely number 2. Very expensive repair.","Reliability = less than average. + +Long life = it will be a gamble + +Problem = usually detonation will take out a cylinder. More than likely number 2. Very expensive repair.","not sanded off but dewaxed and + +not sanded off but dewaxed and roughed up a bit. + +best thing to do is read the paint maker's directions and follow them to the letter" +"Hi, I am looking for some opinions. I am looking at a ZX300TXRC VMax engine on e-bay. It is a supposedly mostly fresh-water engine with about 230 hours, of which 50% are less than 2000 rpms. My plan is to put this engine on a 2001 Boston Whaler 210 Ventura. (The boat is about 3500 lbs dry with a 100-gallon fuel tank.) I am not after high speed, just a lot of torque and reliability. So my main question is this -- do these engines have a reputation for reliability? I have had numerous Yamaha outboards before, but they were all carbureted. In fact, I just sold my last Whaler with twin 200HP 1989 Yamahas that run so sweet I almost hated to let the boat go. So this is my first foray into the HPDI world. Bottom line -- if used sensibly and taken care of, can I expect a fairly long and trouble-free life with this engine? Thanks in advance. ---WhalerAce","I've only owned one Yamaha outboard, which is my 1999 SX150TXRX OX 66 saltwater series. The engine runs flawless and the only thing I've had to do outside of routine maintenance, was to take the cooling covers off the heads and scrape the scale buildup off. Was having overheat issue above 35mph and that resolved the problem. The engine was previously used in saltwater exclusively and was taken great care of. However, scale buildup does occur and flushing doesn't always remove everything. + +If I ever have to change engines, I will stick with Yamaha or Suzuki. Suzuki's are one tough engine according to all of my instructors (while attending marine tech school in 2009)! + +My fav engine is a broke one of course...that's how I make a living. But all engines will perform well if properly taken care of with routine maintenance. The exception of course is getting a lemon which occurs on boat engines, cars and everything else with a motor. +Buying any used motor is a gamble unless your able to see, run and test the engine yourself or with a mechanic. +I did take a gamble when I bought my Yamaha used from Florida. But it came complete with controls and everything and I lucked out and bought a great Yamaha engine. I bought my Trophy boat off ebay when I lived in Florida, but I was able to inspect the boat before I purchased it since the seller was about an hour from me. + +Good luck what ever you decide to do. +FYI, does the boat you're wanting to put this on support this large HP engine? There is a reason the USCG sticker gives a max HP.","I've only owned one Yamaha outboard, which is my 1999 SX150TXRX OX 66 saltwater series. The engine runs flawless and the only thing I've had to do outside of routine maintenance, was to take the cooling covers off the heads and scrape the scale buildup off. Was having overheat issue above 35mph and that resolved the problem. The engine was previously used in saltwater exclusively and was taken great care of. However, scale buildup does occur and flushing doesn't always remove everything. + +If I ever have to change engines, I will stick with Yamaha or Suzuki. Suzuki's are one tough engine according to all of my instructors (while attending marine tech school in 2009)! + +My fav engine is a broke one of course...that's how I make a living. But all engines will perform well if properly taken care of with routine maintenance. The exception of course is getting a lemon which occurs on boat engines, cars and everything else with a motor. +Buying any used motor is a gamble unless your able to see, run and test the engine yourself or with a mechanic. +I did take a gamble when I bought my Yamaha used from Florida. But it came complete with controls and everything and I lucked out and bought a great Yamaha engine. I bought my Trophy boat off ebay when I lived in Florida, but I was able to inspect the boat before I purchased it since the seller was about an hour from me. + +Good luck what ever you decide to do. +FYI, does the boat you're wanting to put this on support this large HP engine? There is a reason the USCG sticker gives a max HP.","In my opinion the starter should be taken apart for inspection.----Likely that solenoid was NOT the problem.----Inspect the starter , do not rush out and buy a new one." +"Hi, I am looking for some opinions. I am looking at a ZX300TXRC VMax engine on e-bay. It is a supposedly mostly fresh-water engine with about 230 hours, of which 50% are less than 2000 rpms. My plan is to put this engine on a 2001 Boston Whaler 210 Ventura. (The boat is about 3500 lbs dry with a 100-gallon fuel tank.) I am not after high speed, just a lot of torque and reliability. So my main question is this -- do these engines have a reputation for reliability? I have had numerous Yamaha outboards before, but they were all carbureted. In fact, I just sold my last Whaler with twin 200HP 1989 Yamahas that run so sweet I almost hated to let the boat go. So this is my first foray into the HPDI world. Bottom line -- if used sensibly and taken care of, can I expect a fairly long and trouble-free life with this engine? Thanks in advance. ---WhalerAce","Unless you're a mechanic with compression gauges and tools who knows what to test and what to look for in a used Ebay engine, I'd be skittish about buying it. Hours & use? Who knows regardless of what is reported/claimed. Especially a 300 VMax. If used in fresh water as reported, it was most likely used on a bass boat and I don't know anyone with a bass boat who spends 50% of their time running below 2000 RPM! They rocket to where they want to get and let the trolling motor do the work from there. If they aren't fishing they are trying to set speed records all the time on the lake in the early morning with such an engine. The claims made about hours given the age of the engine and the time spent at low RPM sounds ""fishy"" to me. I'd stear clear of it.","Unless you're a mechanic with compression gauges and tools who knows what to test and what to look for in a used Ebay engine, I'd be skittish about buying it. Hours & use? Who knows regardless of what is reported/claimed. Especially a 300 VMax. If used in fresh water as reported, it was most likely used on a bass boat and I don't know anyone with a bass boat who spends 50% of their time running below 2000 RPM! They rocket to where they want to get and let the trolling motor do the work from there. If they aren't fishing they are trying to set speed records all the time on the lake in the early morning with such an engine. The claims made about hours given the age of the engine and the time spent at low RPM sounds ""fishy"" to me. I'd stear clear of it.","Moeller Yamaha paint $55.00 a 12oz can +in Canada." +"Hello, I have these 2 green stock wires inside of a blue colored loom running from under the flywheel just down to the side of the engine, their pretty long. they are on the fuel filter side. They both have small female round connectors. Can someone tell me what these 2 wires are for? You​ don't need them hooked up to anything to run the motor. Model# 9.9SJ Thanks in advance for any info......",More than likely they are from the lighting coil. They can be connected to a rectifier or a rectifier/regulator so that a battery can be recharged or lights are powered.,More than likely they are from the lighting coil. They can be connected to a rectifier or a rectifier/regulator so that a battery can be recharged or lights are powered.,"If it isn't gonna be off for a long time, the tires in the yard approach is the easiest. + +Building a cradle is a good thought but - before you spend the money and the time ponder this - how do you plan to get the boat from the trailer to the cradle?? + +As far as support - you can mimic what the trailer does and you'll be just fine" +"Greetings, + +I just fired up my motor after a long cold winter and noticed water coming from the R/R housing, the R/R unit now has horizontal crack in the cover. Ironically this is the first winter I paid for indoor storage, but we had 40 days where the morning temp was below zero, so I guess I am not surprised it cracked. + +Questions: + +1. The whole R/R assembly costs $275, but the cover is only $35, can anyone tell me if it's just a broken cover or when this unit froze did it likely trash the whole R/R Unit. If I tear it apart, can I visually tell if the R/R is spent? + +2. If I choose to do this repair myself, it looks like I have to remove the whole fuse box assembly to unbolt the R/R bracket (complicated by not impossible, right?), but what other things should I be aware, other damage to look for? + +Thanks!!! +Lunkr","Most likely just the cover had residual water in it and froze and cracked. +To check R/R is to test diodes in it with a multimeter. If the R/R is cracked (the housing or the hard plastic sealer) it may be bad.","Most likely just the cover had residual water in it and froze and cracked. +To check R/R is to test diodes in it with a multimeter. If the R/R is cracked (the housing or the hard plastic sealer) it may be bad.",Running no oil isn't good. Running with water isn't good. I assume the lower unit needs a rebuild. It will have to come apart for further inspection. +PLEASE PLEASE HELP. HELP I just changed the Impella on my 1994 150HPYamaha. Is this normal or not. As soon as the engine started up I did not have any water peeing out Now out of caution I turned it off. I did not let it run more then 5 or 10 seconds. Is this normal or should I let it run a bit longer to see if it will come out. The only thing that should be noted was when I replace the Impella with the new one. I had to use the old housing and the old stainless steel cup instead of the new one. The reason was the new stainless cup would not fit or lock into the old housing. On top the new cup was 2 raised tips and the old had just 1. So it would go back correctly I used the old cup. Do I have anything to worry about or did the Impella go on backwards??? Help,"Did you fire the engine with the boat in the water? You need the water level to be above the cavitation plate for the pump to push water. If you had it on a hose with earmuffs, next time squeeze the earmuffs against the sides of the lower unit and hold them tight until the pressure from the hose has forced water up through the pump and it is spitting out everywhere. Then, stand back and have someone start the engine. It should keep pumping and peeing out the tell-tail pee hole.","Did you fire the engine with the boat in the water? You need the water level to be above the cavitation plate for the pump to push water. If you had it on a hose with earmuffs, next time squeeze the earmuffs against the sides of the lower unit and hold them tight until the pressure from the hose has forced water up through the pump and it is spitting out everywhere. Then, stand back and have someone start the engine. It should keep pumping and peeing out the tell-tail pee hole.","Just showed up this year even after I had carbs rebuilt and it ran good last year + +usually starts after a couple cranks" +"Flushed my motor and first start of the years since last October. Water was coming from lower end. + +Not sure it's suppose to. It's also coming out of nipple at the top.",I believe it's just a drain port to let out excess water so it won't freeze in winter,I believe it's just a drain port to let out excess water so it won't freeze in winter,"Reed valves ok on the bottom cylinder.---------"" sparking very well "" means nothing here.-----------Answer this , will spark jump a gap of 3/8"" or more." +"Flushed my motor and first start of the years since last October. Water was coming from lower end. + +Not sure it's suppose to. It's also coming out of nipple at the top.","Ok good. I wasn't and still not 100% sure about it. The hole is obviously there for a reason, however, I'm not sure about the water coming from the part near the rod (confused) + +i emailed a shop near me and they were great with my 40 Johnson I had. I'm sceptical of shops sometimes and worried they will make up a problem to screw me over. I've never had a 4 stroke or yamaha. I've had only Johnson before. I've done some searching on Google but nothing pertains to water and it's all articles and videos about oil leaks.","Ok good. I wasn't and still not 100% sure about it. The hole is obviously there for a reason, however, I'm not sure about the water coming from the part near the rod (confused) + +i emailed a shop near me and they were great with my 40 Johnson I had. I'm sceptical of shops sometimes and worried they will make up a problem to screw me over. I've never had a 4 stroke or yamaha. I've had only Johnson before. I've done some searching on Google but nothing pertains to water and it's all articles and videos about oil leaks.","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + The fuel pump only has two hoses correct? The hole between the bolt holes is the pulse port from the crankcase, there should be two check valves in the fuel pump take it apart and soak with carb cleaner and blow it out goot with air pressure. Make sure both check valves are working and clean out all the hole good going into the crankcase. Then put it back together and see if it works. could be a piece of crap in a check valve. Replace the fuel lines in the motor! + +Click to expand... + + +ok, I'll try that when I get home and let you know when I get it done. Thanks" +"Flushed my motor and first start of the years since last October. Water was coming from lower end. + +Not sure it's suppose to. It's also coming out of nipple at the top.","Water runs out of the lower unit all kinds of places when hooked up to a hose. You only see it because it's hooked up to a hose instead of in the water. As long as the tell-tale pee hole is spitting water you should be fine as long as your thermostat is working properly. Lots of people forget about their thermostats. Don't forget about it as it can rust shut or fail and you won't know it as the tell-tail pee hole will keep on spitting. Result... You fry an engine. I check my thermostat every year just to be safe and change it every 2-3 years even if it looks good as I run in salt water. Oil, thermostats, marine sta-bil in the fuel ALL THE TIME, and fuel filters are cheap, new outboards are EXPENSIVE. I learned the hard way long ago and have never be penny wise and dollar foolish since.","Water runs out of the lower unit all kinds of places when hooked up to a hose. You only see it because it's hooked up to a hose instead of in the water. As long as the tell-tale pee hole is spitting water you should be fine as long as your thermostat is working properly. Lots of people forget about their thermostats. Don't forget about it as it can rust shut or fail and you won't know it as the tell-tail pee hole will keep on spitting. Result... You fry an engine. I check my thermostat every year just to be safe and change it every 2-3 years even if it looks good as I run in salt water. Oil, thermostats, marine sta-bil in the fuel ALL THE TIME, and fuel filters are cheap, new outboards are EXPENSIVE. I learned the hard way long ago and have never be penny wise and dollar foolish since.",Use a pair of jumper cables from your battery negative post to engine ground. Positive cable connects to large post on starter. If it cranks then take positive to solonoid positive. If that cranks you have loose or corroded battery cables. Often battery cables will corrode inside And difficult to see. +"Flushed my motor and first start of the years since last October. Water was coming from lower end. + +Not sure it's suppose to. It's also coming out of nipple at the top.","I'll add water pump impellers to that list as well. Lose a fin on an impeller, it will still pump but you'll have little pieces of rubber forced up through the cooling system that can clog little water channels throughout the engine. I replace mine every 2 years... Again, whether it looks like it needs it or not.","I'll add water pump impellers to that list as well. Lose a fin on an impeller, it will still pump but you'll have little pieces of rubber forced up through the cooling system that can clog little water channels throughout the engine. I replace mine every 2 years... Again, whether it looks like it needs it or not.","retiredbob said: + + + + I just bought a used pontoon boat to use in freshwater. It has a Yamaha 50hp 4 stroke OB. In reading the manual on-line, I see the 'suggestion' to use Yamalube oil, Ring Free Fuel Additive and Yamaha Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer. + +How important is it to use the Yamaha ""recommended"" products -vs- other brand products.? + +What brand oil can I use (dino or synthetic) ? + +Should I use the Ring Free Fuel additive when using 87 octane brand name gas with 10% ethanol.? + +Can I use Sta-Bil Marine additive in lieu of Yamaha fuel stabilizer? + + +Thanks in advance + +Click to expand... + + +Is this a 4 stroke or is that a typo? Ring free is for 2 stroke engines, Yamalube is also for 2 stroke engines." +I have just purchased one as a back up but it would be handy if I could hook it up to the control box on my boat.,"No. if you are using it as an emergency ""get home"" motor just lower it, put it in gear, throttle it up and and set it to push the boat straight ahead. Leave your main, dead outboard down in the water and use it to steer with while underway.","No. if you are using it as an emergency ""get home"" motor just lower it, put it in gear, throttle it up and and set it to push the boat straight ahead. Leave your main, dead outboard down in the water and use it to steer with while underway.",Bueller ? Bueller ? +I have a 2000 yamaha 225 ox66 . Idles and runs fine but has been gradually losing power for about 8 months. Had a trip saturday. Ran fine at first but lost more and more power as the day went on. On the way in to ramp it finally dropped to idle speed with the the throttle wide open. I've changed plugs and fuel filters with no help. It feels as if I'm pulling a barge. Thought it might be the power pack. Any help?,"well first things first, check compression with engine hot. see if your losing compression. don't worry so much about different compr readings (unless say one is at 125 and another is like 80), be more concerned with difference in 2 adjacent cylinders usually meaning head gasket leak. check all cylinders are firing. +is primer hose and bulb in good shape? pull connection off engine side of primer hose and check the inside of hose for deteriation. +easiest way to rule out problem with boat fuel tank and lines is to run engine from a portable tank with known good components. +if you have problems with engine fuel pump etc, no matter how far the throttle is, the engine cannot run any faster because it can't get more fuel to support going any faster. +could even be an issue with stator, as sometimes as they heat up they start failing. + + +easy stuff first tho, rule out fuel system and spark.","well first things first, check compression with engine hot. see if your losing compression. don't worry so much about different compr readings (unless say one is at 125 and another is like 80), be more concerned with difference in 2 adjacent cylinders usually meaning head gasket leak. check all cylinders are firing. +is primer hose and bulb in good shape? pull connection off engine side of primer hose and check the inside of hose for deteriation. +easiest way to rule out problem with boat fuel tank and lines is to run engine from a portable tank with known good components. +if you have problems with engine fuel pump etc, no matter how far the throttle is, the engine cannot run any faster because it can't get more fuel to support going any faster. +could even be an issue with stator, as sometimes as they heat up they start failing. + + +easy stuff first tho, rule out fuel system and spark.","Ayuh,.... All ya gotta do is wire the hour meter to the Ignition,... + +Ya only want Power goin' to it, when the key is On... + +If ya pull Power from the tach leads, I'd pull the Power, yet ground it back to yer ground buss bar..." +"Hello everyone, + +I recently launch my boat for the season this year and noticed what I will call a slight surging in low gear @ approx. 1100PRM. Does not do it at intermediate speed or WOT. The motor has 68 hours on it, the original spark plugs have not been changed. I use Startron and Ring Free additives religiously so I Know it not a fuel problem. Should I be changing the plugs every season even though they don't have 100 hrs on them? + +Input greatly appreciated as I am first time boat owner. + +John",i have a 2011 merc 60 hp bigfoot efi....when the motor was brand new it got contaminated with bad fuel from a built in tank....after replacing and cleaning system and going to new external tanks the last problem was the same as yours...the surge is so slight that it is not noticeable to a passenger in the boat..and goes away at 12 or 1300 rpm...i thought the problem may go away if i run cleaner etc in the gas..it didnt and i am living with it and will continue to do so...it is so slight that i am not worried about it...the motor idles good and the surge is not there at 1100 rpm in neutral if i ease it to that point...all other speed it runs perfect...curious to know what you find...mine is not covered on warranty as the dealer knows and recorded my screwup on bad gas..and its too expensive to start throwing parts in it to try to fix..,i have a 2011 merc 60 hp bigfoot efi....when the motor was brand new it got contaminated with bad fuel from a built in tank....after replacing and cleaning system and going to new external tanks the last problem was the same as yours...the surge is so slight that it is not noticeable to a passenger in the boat..and goes away at 12 or 1300 rpm...i thought the problem may go away if i run cleaner etc in the gas..it didnt and i am living with it and will continue to do so...it is so slight that i am not worried about it...the motor idles good and the surge is not there at 1100 rpm in neutral if i ease it to that point...all other speed it runs perfect...curious to know what you find...mine is not covered on warranty as the dealer knows and recorded my screwup on bad gas..and its too expensive to start throwing parts in it to try to fix..,EBay? +"Hello everyone, + +I recently launch my boat for the season this year and noticed what I will call a slight surging in low gear @ approx. 1100PRM. Does not do it at intermediate speed or WOT. The motor has 68 hours on it, the original spark plugs have not been changed. I use Startron and Ring Free additives religiously so I Know it not a fuel problem. Should I be changing the plugs every season even though they don't have 100 hrs on them? + +Input greatly appreciated as I am first time boat owner. + +John","papyson said: + + + + i have a 2011 merc 60 hp bigfoot efi....when the motor was brand new it got contaminated with bad fuel from a built in tank....after replacing and cleaning system and going to new external tanks the last problem was the same as yours...the surge is so slight that it is not noticeable to a passenger in the boat..and goes away at 12 or 1300 rpm...i thought the problem may go away if i run cleaner etc in the gas..it didnt and i am living with it and will continue to do so...it is so slight that i am not worried about it...the motor idles good and the surge is not there at 1100 rpm in neutral if i ease it to that point...all other speed it runs perfect...curious to know what you find...mine is not covered on warranty as the dealer knows and recorded my screwup on bad gas..and its too expensive to start throwing parts in it to try to fix.. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks for sharing your similar experiences, I going to install new plugs and check plug wiring harness. Other than that if it's an issue with voltage or EFI ports it should be a warranty issue (I'm covered for 5 years from purchase). Just a pain in the butt to have to deal with with such low hours and diligent maintenance having been followed.","papyson said: + + + + i have a 2011 merc 60 hp bigfoot efi....when the motor was brand new it got contaminated with bad fuel from a built in tank....after replacing and cleaning system and going to new external tanks the last problem was the same as yours...the surge is so slight that it is not noticeable to a passenger in the boat..and goes away at 12 or 1300 rpm...i thought the problem may go away if i run cleaner etc in the gas..it didnt and i am living with it and will continue to do so...it is so slight that i am not worried about it...the motor idles good and the surge is not there at 1100 rpm in neutral if i ease it to that point...all other speed it runs perfect...curious to know what you find...mine is not covered on warranty as the dealer knows and recorded my screwup on bad gas..and its too expensive to start throwing parts in it to try to fix.. + +Click to expand... + + + +Thanks for sharing your similar experiences, I going to install new plugs and check plug wiring harness. Other than that if it's an issue with voltage or EFI ports it should be a warranty issue (I'm covered for 5 years from purchase). Just a pain in the butt to have to deal with with such low hours and diligent maintenance having been followed.","Unbelievable! Twice the oil that should have been in the engine? Overfilling a 4-stroke's oil can be (and is) a very bad thing. Unlike a car, cylinders in an outboard are horizontal, not verticle. The question is how much oil was forced into the lowest cylinders and was any damage caused. Obviously oil was being forced around the rings if it was smoking as you explained and, rest assured, there was excessive stress being placed on components as it wasn't performing as it should have been. + +I personally would take it to a local mechanic (any auto mechanic will do) and have them check the compression on all cylinders. It won't take more than a few minutes. I wouldn't take it to another Yamaha dealer as they are thick as thieves (just like contractors) and any will know exactly where the engine came from when they search the serial # in the Yamaha database. If the lower cylinders read less compression than the top cylinders I'd be taking those readings back to the dealer and telling them they have a major problem on their hands and you don't want that engine back until all cylinders are reading virtually identical compression... I mean, its a brand new engine! That dealer that screwed up will never tell you the engine could have been damaged and they certainly aren't going to run compression checks on the cylinders to confirm any damage they may have caused. Simply draining oil will stop the smoking and it will run better but is it running like a brand new engine should that you've never had the opportunity to get used to and establish a mental baseline for what normal operation is? You'll never know. + +I'll be interested to hear other responses but this is the 1st thought that comes to my mind." +"Hello. I am new to the forum and have a question that maybe someone can answer or point me in the right direction. + +I just came into possession of a Sea Pro CC with a 2003, Yamaha, 150 HP outboard, 2 stroke oil injected engine. + +The engine runs perfect until it reaches about 4,000 RPMs then it starts to sputter and kick in and out. The spark plugs have been cleaned and re-gapped, and all the contacts have been cleaned. The water separator looks very new, but I am going to put on a new filter on anyway. + +Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.","I think it is a fuel flow issue to the cylinders. Whatever you do, don't push it. STOP NOW! You'll fry cylinders at high RPM as I learned the hard way about partiallly clogged fuel jets. Pull those brass fuel jets from every carb and make sure they are perfectly clean and clear. Blow carb cleaner through them. If I were to guess, you have partially clogged fuel jets gummed up with this ethanol fuel we have been subjected to. The problem doesn't show up until you are trying to feed serious fuel at higher RPM's. Clean those jets and see if the problem goes away. Even if the problem goes away, pull all the carbs and clean them all thoroughly with carb cleaner. Restricted fuel to any cylinder in a 2-stroke is the kiss of death. Low fuel at high RPM = Low lubrication provided by the oil in the fuel to that cylinder.","I think it is a fuel flow issue to the cylinders. Whatever you do, don't push it. STOP NOW! You'll fry cylinders at high RPM as I learned the hard way about partiallly clogged fuel jets. Pull those brass fuel jets from every carb and make sure they are perfectly clean and clear. Blow carb cleaner through them. If I were to guess, you have partially clogged fuel jets gummed up with this ethanol fuel we have been subjected to. The problem doesn't show up until you are trying to feed serious fuel at higher RPM's. Clean those jets and see if the problem goes away. Even if the problem goes away, pull all the carbs and clean them all thoroughly with carb cleaner. Restricted fuel to any cylinder in a 2-stroke is the kiss of death. Low fuel at high RPM = Low lubrication provided by the oil in the fuel to that cylinder.","""I subscribe to the fewer the + +""I subscribe to the fewer the thru hull holes the better philosophy. One should make sure that the hose is rated for suction side service, i.e. wire reinforced and is the same size (I/D) as the inlet port on the raw water pump. In my case, the line is 1 1/4"" and everything from the pump to the thru hull is 1-1/4"". What is not obvious in the photos is that the thru hull fitting is of this type + +http://tinyurl.com/Bronze-thruHull + +And that the ""scoop/strainer"" is a bolt on, not part of the thru hull. If I had to do it over again, I'd get one where the strainer section could be removed for cleaning as every once in a great while, some wiley crustatian decides to take up residence inside the thruhull itself. + +Note: I'm not recommending Defender as I've never used them...but I've never heard a bad thing about them either...""" +"Hello. I am new to the forum and have a question that maybe someone can answer or point me in the right direction. + +I just came into possession of a Sea Pro CC with a 2003, Yamaha, 150 HP outboard, 2 stroke oil injected engine. + +The engine runs perfect until it reaches about 4,000 RPMs then it starts to sputter and kick in and out. The spark plugs have been cleaned and re-gapped, and all the contacts have been cleaned. The water separator looks very new, but I am going to put on a new filter on anyway. + +Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.","deepsea21 said: + + + + I think it is a fuel flow issue to the cylinders. Whatever you do, don't push it. STOP NOW! You'll fry cylinders at high RPM as I learned the hard way about partiallly clogged fuel jets. Pull those brass fuel jets from every carb and make sure they are perfectly clean and clear. Blow carb cleaner through them. If I were to guess, you have partially clogged fuel jets gummed up with this ethanol fuel we have been subjected to. The problem doesn't show up until you are trying to feed serious fuel at higher RPM's. Clean those jets and see if the problem goes away. Even if the problem goes away, pull all the carbs and clean them all thoroughly with carb cleaner. Restricted fuel to any cylinder in a 2-stroke is the kiss of death. Low fuel at high RPM = Low lubrication provided by the oil in the fuel to that cylinder. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for your input.","deepsea21 said: + + + + I think it is a fuel flow issue to the cylinders. Whatever you do, don't push it. STOP NOW! You'll fry cylinders at high RPM as I learned the hard way about partiallly clogged fuel jets. Pull those brass fuel jets from every carb and make sure they are perfectly clean and clear. Blow carb cleaner through them. If I were to guess, you have partially clogged fuel jets gummed up with this ethanol fuel we have been subjected to. The problem doesn't show up until you are trying to feed serious fuel at higher RPM's. Clean those jets and see if the problem goes away. Even if the problem goes away, pull all the carbs and clean them all thoroughly with carb cleaner. Restricted fuel to any cylinder in a 2-stroke is the kiss of death. Low fuel at high RPM = Low lubrication provided by the oil in the fuel to that cylinder. + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for your input.","Is tank vent open? loosen bolt on carb bowl is fuel there? Are you following the factory starting procedure? Is primer solenoid working,are you using it?" +"Hi everyone I work on a boat and we change motors to Yamaha 350. I want connect fuel sensor (its work with variation voltage) to motor vessel view and remove past analog gage, I want to know is it possible? If it is ok how can I it? +Tanks a lot","What type of gauges do you have? + +Is it just fuel flow information that you want?","What type of gauges do you have? + +Is it just fuel flow information that you want?","Rob- + +There is a water-separating fuel filter installed so we are good there. Should the fuel ball feel completely full when the engine is running? I did try squeezing with the engine running and it was fairly easy to squeeze. I have a 3 tank I can attach it to and see if the vent is clogged. Thank you." +"Hi everyone I work on a boat and we change motors to Yamaha 350. I want connect fuel sensor (its work with variation voltage) to motor vessel view and remove past analog gage, I want to know is it possible? If it is ok how can I it? +Tanks a lot",Are we talking about a flow/usage or fuel tank level?,Are we talking about a flow/usage or fuel tank level?,"Sorry, most carburetor "" problems "" turn out to be something else !" +"Hi everyone I work on a boat and we change motors to Yamaha 350. I want connect fuel sensor (its work with variation voltage) to motor vessel view and remove past analog gage, I want to know is it possible? If it is ok how can I it? +Tanks a lot","in Yamaha 350 we have one panel(vessel view) that we can show some information for example GPS information and capacity of fuel tank(graphic bar) on it, I want to know is it possible connect my fuel sensor(measure capacity of fuel in tank) to panel directly please illustrate it for me +Tanks","in Yamaha 350 we have one panel(vessel view) that we can show some information for example GPS information and capacity of fuel tank(graphic bar) on it, I want to know is it possible connect my fuel sensor(measure capacity of fuel in tank) to panel directly please illustrate it for me +Tanks","Glad you got it. + +I guess that's an understandable error, for 70 Hp up- you do use Neutral, but for 50 Hp and below, it's Reverse Gear used. +Art" +"Hi everyone I work on a boat and we change motors to Yamaha 350. I want connect fuel sensor (its work with variation voltage) to motor vessel view and remove past analog gage, I want to know is it possible? If it is ok how can I it? +Tanks a lot",You will need to have a WEMA style fuel sender in your tank for this to work correctly.,You will need to have a WEMA style fuel sender in your tank for this to work correctly.,"If that's a 4 stroke,a valve adjustment would help" +"Hi everyone I work on a boat and we change motors to Yamaha 350. I want connect fuel sensor (its work with variation voltage) to motor vessel view and remove past analog gage, I want to know is it possible? If it is ok how can I it? +Tanks a lot","Yamaha does not use the term ""vessel view"". I am guessing that what you have is the Yamaha Command Link speedometer. Is this correct? Or, do you have a combination speed/fuel meter. Both of these have a right hand side bar scale that depicts tank level information. Both can accept a GPS input. + +Are these the type of gauges that you have http://yamahaoutboards.com/Marine_Rigging_Parts_Catalog/#12/z + +Either will accept an input from a fuel tank sender. I prefer the capacitance probe type. it is all solid state and can be custom fit to a tank. www.centroidproducts.com","Yamaha does not use the term ""vessel view"". I am guessing that what you have is the Yamaha Command Link speedometer. Is this correct? Or, do you have a combination speed/fuel meter. Both of these have a right hand side bar scale that depicts tank level information. Both can accept a GPS input. + +Are these the type of gauges that you have http://yamahaoutboards.com/Marine_Rigging_Parts_Catalog/#12/z + +Either will accept an input from a fuel tank sender. I prefer the capacitance probe type. it is all solid state and can be custom fit to a tank. www.centroidproducts.com","The only other thing you could do is to do a low pressure leak test, if you have a well controlled source of air...3 PSIG is typically used for small tanks." +"Hi everyone I work on a boat and we change motors to Yamaha 350. I want connect fuel sensor (its work with variation voltage) to motor vessel view and remove past analog gage, I want to know is it possible? If it is ok how can I it? +Tanks a lot","Hi every one, first thank you for notice to my problem, I have one diagram from Yamaha motor that illustrate how connect fuel sensor to multi-function color gage (that I introduce vessel view in my last post) but it is not clear for me because until now I don’t connect fuel sensor to multi-function color gage thus first show you last connection diagram of fuel sensor to analog gage and picture of my fuel sensor and then Yamaha motor diagram. 1. Is it possible I connect directly this fuel sensor to multi-function color gage?","Hi every one, first thank you for notice to my problem, I have one diagram from Yamaha motor that illustrate how connect fuel sensor to multi-function color gage (that I introduce vessel view in my last post) but it is not clear for me because until now I don’t connect fuel sensor to multi-function color gage thus first show you last connection diagram of fuel sensor to analog gage and picture of my fuel sensor and then Yamaha motor diagram. 1. Is it possible I connect directly this fuel sensor to multi-function color gage?","What model year is it? I would say something is restricting air flow. Does it only happen on cold startup, or does it happen even after the engine is warmed up? If it happens on both cold and warm startup, I would guess the cowling is putting a kink in one of the fuel lines." +"Hi everyone I work on a boat and we change motors to Yamaha 350. I want connect fuel sensor (its work with variation voltage) to motor vessel view and remove past analog gage, I want to know is it possible? If it is ok how can I it? +Tanks a lot","If your colour gauge is by Yamaha it is known as a Command Link Plus display. + +There is a small harness that plugs into the back of the dislay. The harness has four wire pairs, one pair per tank for up to four tanks. + +Simply run a pair of wires from the tank sender wires to one of the wire pairs in the harness. Observe the correct polarity. Ground the tank sender wire to the boats ground system. Then, set up the display to display fuel in the tank to which the sender is attached. + +Voila. You will have tank level displayed in the bars on the right side of the display.","If your colour gauge is by Yamaha it is known as a Command Link Plus display. + +There is a small harness that plugs into the back of the dislay. The harness has four wire pairs, one pair per tank for up to four tanks. + +Simply run a pair of wires from the tank sender wires to one of the wire pairs in the harness. Observe the correct polarity. Ground the tank sender wire to the boats ground system. Then, set up the display to display fuel in the tank to which the sender is attached. + +Voila. You will have tank level displayed in the bars on the right side of the display.","Re: transom repair + +Yes you could go thru all the wood repair steps laid out in the list that Rick posted or you can clean out the rotted wood in your transom then just pour Seacast in there let it set up and then clean up and fiberglass that needs to be redone. You can get more complete directions from the web site www.transomrepair.net and any of the many youtube videos out there. You can also give ECO-WOLF, INC a call and they will give you lots of help 386 428 4722. The wood way is the way your boat was made and it is a time consuming and messy way to do it or you could do it the Seacast way and come out with a stronger reansom and an easier way to fix it without the chance of rot ever again + +Bruce" +"Took my 2003 Yamaha 115 (175 hours) out Tuesday..started right up. Motored around for about 1/2 hour, then as soon as I tried to adjust the trim, the engine stopped. +When I tried to restart it, it just ""clicked"" as though the battery was dead. I tried to tilt the engine, but that just clicked as well. Had to get towed back. +About an hour later, I tried to tilt the engine again and it worked, but the engine still just clicked. +Started to write this post Wednesday and decided to check the transmission, figuring if it slipped in/out of gear, maybe it wouldn't start. It's on the same control as the trim...just a guess. Anyway, I went down to the boat, put the key in, and it started right up. +I can't trust this to have self-remedied, but have no idea what to check. The only facts I really have are 1) Boat started; batteries were good. 2) the instant I pressed the trim control, the engine died. (Coincidence??) 3) Nothing was done to the boat or batteries or engine (except a quick washdown) after it got back at dock. +Is it possible for a running engine to stop due to some electrical malfunction, perhaps a problem with the trim? +Any help/suggestions/advice would be most welcome! Thanks.","You have a bad connection on the battery cables. Check all of the connections, engine and battery.","You have a bad connection on the battery cables. Check all of the connections, engine and battery.","Hello Racerone: + I know you have to have running water on your motor to test it or to flush it out and most tests are done at idle speed, in nuetral...So To test the idle speed or if the motor needs to be adjusted, Is it safe to put it in gear and for how long? I might have to use a timing light on it. +Thanks for your Help.!" +"Took my 2003 Yamaha 115 (175 hours) out Tuesday..started right up. Motored around for about 1/2 hour, then as soon as I tried to adjust the trim, the engine stopped. +When I tried to restart it, it just ""clicked"" as though the battery was dead. I tried to tilt the engine, but that just clicked as well. Had to get towed back. +About an hour later, I tried to tilt the engine again and it worked, but the engine still just clicked. +Started to write this post Wednesday and decided to check the transmission, figuring if it slipped in/out of gear, maybe it wouldn't start. It's on the same control as the trim...just a guess. Anyway, I went down to the boat, put the key in, and it started right up. +I can't trust this to have self-remedied, but have no idea what to check. The only facts I really have are 1) Boat started; batteries were good. 2) the instant I pressed the trim control, the engine died. (Coincidence??) 3) Nothing was done to the boat or batteries or engine (except a quick washdown) after it got back at dock. +Is it possible for a running engine to stop due to some electrical malfunction, perhaps a problem with the trim? +Any help/suggestions/advice would be most welcome! Thanks.","I agree with Dockside. Are you using wing nuts on your battery connections? Many do... Including me 'cause they are easy. They will vibrate lose and if you are going to use them, at least place a lock washer under them. Standard flat washer... They'll vibrate lose and sometimes you'll have power from a weak connection that will run some lights and such but try to draw serious amps on start-up... Clicking.","I agree with Dockside. Are you using wing nuts on your battery connections? Many do... Including me 'cause they are easy. They will vibrate lose and if you are going to use them, at least place a lock washer under them. Standard flat washer... They'll vibrate lose and sometimes you'll have power from a weak connection that will run some lights and such but try to draw serious amps on start-up... Clicking.",I am glad that helped. How did it run? +"Took my 2003 Yamaha 115 (175 hours) out Tuesday..started right up. Motored around for about 1/2 hour, then as soon as I tried to adjust the trim, the engine stopped. +When I tried to restart it, it just ""clicked"" as though the battery was dead. I tried to tilt the engine, but that just clicked as well. Had to get towed back. +About an hour later, I tried to tilt the engine again and it worked, but the engine still just clicked. +Started to write this post Wednesday and decided to check the transmission, figuring if it slipped in/out of gear, maybe it wouldn't start. It's on the same control as the trim...just a guess. Anyway, I went down to the boat, put the key in, and it started right up. +I can't trust this to have self-remedied, but have no idea what to check. The only facts I really have are 1) Boat started; batteries were good. 2) the instant I pressed the trim control, the engine died. (Coincidence??) 3) Nothing was done to the boat or batteries or engine (except a quick washdown) after it got back at dock. +Is it possible for a running engine to stop due to some electrical malfunction, perhaps a problem with the trim? +Any help/suggestions/advice would be most welcome! Thanks.",i would replace the wing nuts if you have them with standard nuts...and throw an old or cheap box end wrench in the battery compartment..then when you are back there charging batteries etc check them for tightness as part of the routine...use anti corrosive on the terminals and you are set to go...good battery connections prevent all kind of potential problems such as wire crystallization etc...,i would replace the wing nuts if you have them with standard nuts...and throw an old or cheap box end wrench in the battery compartment..then when you are back there charging batteries etc check them for tightness as part of the routine...use anti corrosive on the terminals and you are set to go...good battery connections prevent all kind of potential problems such as wire crystallization etc...,"Sounds like you have a bad connection at the battery or on the engine,fuel pump doesn't take a lot of juice to turn on.but when you try to crank it over it takes alot of voltage.Also if it happens again,see if your gauges cut out then you know you have a bad connection" +"I have a 2006 F150 with 170 hours and when I slow down quickly from a normal cruise speed and come off plane the motor makes a high pitched squeal for a 2-3 seconds. It does not make the noise if I gradually slow down, only when I slow down quickly. It sounds similar to a bad alternator bearing on a car (which is a constant sound) or even a squealing belt on a car. There is no noise at idle or upon acceleration to a planning speed, so I don't think it is the balancer, but I could be wrong. I have read some posts about a shaft bushing problem, but it seems if that were the problem, it would be a constant noise. Any ideas? Thanks",Just guessing but squeals have been attributed to low gear case oil. Is is fully filled?,Just guessing but squeals have been attributed to low gear case oil. Is is fully filled?,Thank you all for your help on this. I think I have it covered as soon as the parts show up. +"I have a 1985 15sk that I bought a few years ago and had it worked on because it was stuck in the forward gear. When I got it back I took it to the lake and ran it to see how well it would perform. It ran fine for a few minutes but then I had a loss in power/speed at full throttle. It runs great at half throttle but immediately has the loss at full throttle. I spoke to the shop that worked on it and they wanted me to bring it back to them (after an argument about a seal kit that may or may not have been installed) but I do not like the way I was treated and they were VERY expensive. I am trying to run it on a 1448 flat bottom jon boat and my father seems to think that the problem is cavitation, but I know nothing about this. The prop is a little worn but nothing serious and I have checked the splines inside the prop, and on the drive shaft. Ive also checked all the bearings and there appears to be no problem with any of them. Does anyone have any insight as to what the problem may be?","jrile005 said: + + + + I have a 1985 15sk that I bought a few years ago and had it worked on because it was stuck in the forward gear. When I got it back I took it to the lake and ran it to see how well it would perform. It ran fine for a few minutes but then I had a loss in power/speed at full throttle. It runs great at half throttle but immediately has the loss at full throttle. I spoke to the shop that worked on it and they wanted me to bring it back to them (after an argument about a seal kit that may or may not have been installed) but I do not like the way I was treated and they were VERY expensive. I am trying to run it on a 1448 flat bottom jon boat and my father seems to think that the problem is cavitation, but I know nothing about this. The prop is a little worn but nothing serious and I have checked the splines inside the prop, and on the drive shaft. Ive also checked all the bearings and there appears to be no problem with any of them. Does anyone have any insight as to what the problem may be? + +Click to expand... + + +Hi, +If it runs fine at half throttle, and loses power at full tap, you may find that you have a fuel starvation problem. I suggest you check for fuel line leaks or it may be sucking air into the line. Also maybe strip and clean carburetor/s. I doubt whether the prop would have anything to do with it.","jrile005 said: + + + + I have a 1985 15sk that I bought a few years ago and had it worked on because it was stuck in the forward gear. When I got it back I took it to the lake and ran it to see how well it would perform. It ran fine for a few minutes but then I had a loss in power/speed at full throttle. It runs great at half throttle but immediately has the loss at full throttle. I spoke to the shop that worked on it and they wanted me to bring it back to them (after an argument about a seal kit that may or may not have been installed) but I do not like the way I was treated and they were VERY expensive. I am trying to run it on a 1448 flat bottom jon boat and my father seems to think that the problem is cavitation, but I know nothing about this. The prop is a little worn but nothing serious and I have checked the splines inside the prop, and on the drive shaft. Ive also checked all the bearings and there appears to be no problem with any of them. Does anyone have any insight as to what the problem may be? + +Click to expand... + + +Hi, +If it runs fine at half throttle, and loses power at full tap, you may find that you have a fuel starvation problem. I suggest you check for fuel line leaks or it may be sucking air into the line. Also maybe strip and clean carburetor/s. I doubt whether the prop would have anything to do with it.","Thanks for the suggestion. Hate to have o pull the head, but seem to have no choice." +"I have a 1985 15sk that I bought a few years ago and had it worked on because it was stuck in the forward gear. When I got it back I took it to the lake and ran it to see how well it would perform. It ran fine for a few minutes but then I had a loss in power/speed at full throttle. It runs great at half throttle but immediately has the loss at full throttle. I spoke to the shop that worked on it and they wanted me to bring it back to them (after an argument about a seal kit that may or may not have been installed) but I do not like the way I was treated and they were VERY expensive. I am trying to run it on a 1448 flat bottom jon boat and my father seems to think that the problem is cavitation, but I know nothing about this. The prop is a little worn but nothing serious and I have checked the splines inside the prop, and on the drive shaft. Ive also checked all the bearings and there appears to be no problem with any of them. Does anyone have any insight as to what the problem may be?","I think it is a fuel flow issue to the cylinders. Whatever you do, don't push it. STOP NOW! You'll fry cylinders at high RPM as I learned the hard way about partiallly clogged fuel jets. Pull those brass fuel jets from every carb and make sure they are perfectly clean and clear. Blow carb cleaner through them. If I were to guess, you have partially clogged fuel jets gummed up with this ethanol fuel we have been subjected to. The problem doesn't show up until you are trying to feed serious fuel at higher RPM's. Clean those jets and see if the problem goes away. Even if the problem goes away, pull all the carbs and clean them all thoroughly with carb cleaner. Restricted fuel to any cylinder in a 2-stroke is the kiss of death. Low fuel at high RPM = Low lubrication provided by the oil in the fuel to that cylinder.","I think it is a fuel flow issue to the cylinders. Whatever you do, don't push it. STOP NOW! You'll fry cylinders at high RPM as I learned the hard way about partiallly clogged fuel jets. Pull those brass fuel jets from every carb and make sure they are perfectly clean and clear. Blow carb cleaner through them. If I were to guess, you have partially clogged fuel jets gummed up with this ethanol fuel we have been subjected to. The problem doesn't show up until you are trying to feed serious fuel at higher RPM's. Clean those jets and see if the problem goes away. Even if the problem goes away, pull all the carbs and clean them all thoroughly with carb cleaner. Restricted fuel to any cylinder in a 2-stroke is the kiss of death. Low fuel at high RPM = Low lubrication provided by the oil in the fuel to that cylinder.","boscoe said: + + + + The 86 ~ 89 Pro V150's used the same CDI part number. I would suspect that the 86 thru 89 models are all but identical. For practical purposes any different part numbers would not matter. You can go and open the Yamaha parts catalogs for all four years and determine if and when there are any part number differences. + +Why do you feel the need to know the specific year? If you get to the specific year are you going to want to know the specific month in which the motor was made? The motor left Yamaha with a sticker that indicated the month and year of manufacture. Keep in mind that even though it was a specific model year motor it might have been made in the previous year. Just like you can buy a 2019 automobile that was made in 2018. + +Click to expand... + + +Not crazy important, but if I get this running the ad I write up with an 86, 87, 88 or 89 150 pro v won't look quite as s3xy... Sure wouldn't be the first ad I would look at if I were buying..." +"I have a 2012 f20hp yamaha, will I get an alert buzzer if I have any cooling problems? Thanks for your help.",What does the owner's manual say?,What does the owner's manual say?,Is the motor stored with the carburetors empty ?? +"I have a 1979 15HP manual start Yamaha. When you start it, it will consume all the gas in the filter bowl and then shut off. +I prime (pump bulb) it until the bowl fills , start it and it does the same thing. What could be my problem? Is it a fuel pump or am I letting air get in somewhere. I looked at the diaphrams and they look and feel fine. I have no idea if you can look at them and tell If they are good or bad. Any help will be appreciated.",Possibly borrow / try another tank and hose.,Possibly borrow / try another tank and hose.,Thanks for the information before flushing raw water system with coolant I removed the thermostat +"I have a 1979 15HP manual start Yamaha. When you start it, it will consume all the gas in the filter bowl and then shut off. +I prime (pump bulb) it until the bowl fills , start it and it does the same thing. What could be my problem? Is it a fuel pump or am I letting air get in somewhere. I looked at the diaphrams and they look and feel fine. I have no idea if you can look at them and tell If they are good or bad. Any help will be appreciated.","racerone said: + + + + Possibly borrow / try another tank and hose. + +Click to expand... + + +I've tried 3 different tanks, but I've only got 1 fuel line and bulb. Same things happens every time. +Just to give you some follow up info. I bough a new tank and line but never could get the primer bulb to get tight unless I turned and twisted the gas tank around. Got another tank and bulb tightens right up (when the bowl is full)","racerone said: + + + + Possibly borrow / try another tank and hose. + +Click to expand... + + +I've tried 3 different tanks, but I've only got 1 fuel line and bulb. Same things happens every time. +Just to give you some follow up info. I bough a new tank and line but never could get the primer bulb to get tight unless I turned and twisted the gas tank around. Got another tank and bulb tightens right up (when the bowl is full)","boscoe said: + + + + As I said, be careful of what you read on the innerweb. Yamaha data indicates it to be a 1986 model year motor. +View attachment 25115 + +Click to expand... + + +would you be the same Boscoe on the yamaha forum?" +"I have a 1979 15HP manual start Yamaha. When you start it, it will consume all the gas in the filter bowl and then shut off. +I prime (pump bulb) it until the bowl fills , start it and it does the same thing. What could be my problem? Is it a fuel pump or am I letting air get in somewhere. I looked at the diaphrams and they look and feel fine. I have no idea if you can look at them and tell If they are good or bad. Any help will be appreciated.","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Does it have a three port type fuel pump? Possible pulse issue to the pump. Is the diaphram in the pump stiff if so put in a kit. + +Click to expand... + + +I'm not sure what you mean by a three port. I looked at the diaphram and they were not stiff. +Can the diaphragm be flipped over? I had though about just buying the diaphrams. I'm not really mechanically inclined but I can take somthng apart and put It back together. I appreciate any help","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + Does it have a three port type fuel pump? Possible pulse issue to the pump. Is the diaphram in the pump stiff if so put in a kit. + +Click to expand... + + +I'm not sure what you mean by a three port. I looked at the diaphram and they were not stiff. +Can the diaphragm be flipped over? I had though about just buying the diaphrams. I'm not really mechanically inclined but I can take somthng apart and put It back together. I appreciate any help","Right, the plunger. You have to remove the pump to get to it." +"I have a 1979 15HP manual start Yamaha. When you start it, it will consume all the gas in the filter bowl and then shut off. +I prime (pump bulb) it until the bowl fills , start it and it does the same thing. What could be my problem? Is it a fuel pump or am I letting air get in somewhere. I looked at the diaphrams and they look and feel fine. I have no idea if you can look at them and tell If they are good or bad. Any help will be appreciated.","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + The fuel pump only has two hoses correct? The hole between the bolt holes is the pulse port from the crankcase, there should be two check valves in the fuel pump take it apart and soak with carb cleaner and blow it out goot with air pressure. Make sure both check valves are working and clean out all the hole good going into the crankcase. Then put it back together and see if it works. could be a piece of crap in a check valve. Replace the fuel lines in the motor! + +Click to expand... + + +ok, I'll try that when I get home and let you know when I get it done. Thanks","kimcrwbr1 said: + + + + The fuel pump only has two hoses correct? The hole between the bolt holes is the pulse port from the crankcase, there should be two check valves in the fuel pump take it apart and soak with carb cleaner and blow it out goot with air pressure. Make sure both check valves are working and clean out all the hole good going into the crankcase. Then put it back together and see if it works. could be a piece of crap in a check valve. Replace the fuel lines in the motor! + +Click to expand... + + +ok, I'll try that when I get home and let you know when I get it done. Thanks","TPS Proiblem Solved + +Problem Solved - After 40 hours plus time spent Testing and Changing parts, I found the problem with the TPS. The optional Water Press Sensor I installed about six months after installing the engine had failed, Note: I never got any Fault Code showing on the YDS for the Water Sensor only the TPS system. I unplugged the Sensor and All is well. If anyone wants futher info please contact me. + + +Cheers, + + +Ken" +"I have a 1979 15HP manual start Yamaha. When you start it, it will consume all the gas in the filter bowl and then shut off. +I prime (pump bulb) it until the bowl fills , start it and it does the same thing. What could be my problem? Is it a fuel pump or am I letting air get in somewhere. I looked at the diaphrams and they look and feel fine. I have no idea if you can look at them and tell If they are good or bad. Any help will be appreciated.","Burchillb said: + + + + ok, I'll try that when I get home and let you know when I get it done. Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +I've done everything suggested and now it wont even attempt to fire, much less run. I had to screw something up when I put it back together but it was about dark so I'll redo everything when I get off today. Everything was so simple I don't have a clew what I could have done wrong but I did something. +Thanks","Burchillb said: + + + + ok, I'll try that when I get home and let you know when I get it done. Thanks + +Click to expand... + + +I've done everything suggested and now it wont even attempt to fire, much less run. I had to screw something up when I put it back together but it was about dark so I'll redo everything when I get off today. Everything was so simple I don't have a clew what I could have done wrong but I did something. +Thanks","My plan was to put motor in forward gear, remove the 4 bolts and looks like I need to remove the anode also and there looks to be a bolt there also. Drop lower unit and then remove the impeller housing. Pull old impeller and put new one on. Replace the housing and reverse order all the bolts. + +I have thought about a manual also - I believe the motor is a 2008 + +thanks for replies" +"I have a 1979 15HP manual start Yamaha. When you start it, it will consume all the gas in the filter bowl and then shut off. +I prime (pump bulb) it until the bowl fills , start it and it does the same thing. What could be my problem? Is it a fuel pump or am I letting air get in somewhere. I looked at the diaphrams and they look and feel fine. I have no idea if you can look at them and tell If they are good or bad. Any help will be appreciated.","You may have caused another problem working on the pump. However getting back to basics. Replace the fuel line from the tank to the motor, getting the hose from a marine dealer not auto parts house. I am 65 have seem hoses collapse from the inside, the fuel suction will close an old deteriated hose. Another trick is to cut a V in the pick up tube in the tank if not already done as in some circumstantes the pick up tube will get flat on the bottom of the tank and create a vacuum. + Good luck.","You may have caused another problem working on the pump. However getting back to basics. Replace the fuel line from the tank to the motor, getting the hose from a marine dealer not auto parts house. I am 65 have seem hoses collapse from the inside, the fuel suction will close an old deteriated hose. Another trick is to cut a V in the pick up tube in the tank if not already done as in some circumstantes the pick up tube will get flat on the bottom of the tank and create a vacuum. + Good luck.","Hi Chris I live in Canada and we are all metric up here. I run 2 Garmin and a Lawrence and far prefer them over the Hummingbird that came with the last boat I bought, so I swapped it out to my old boat when I sold it, but that is just personal preference. The sounders I use now I can program either way. I can`t say if it was possible with the Hummingbird or not but anything sold into Canada will be metric. You can find manuals for any of these on line and none of them are produced in Canada so they should all be metric programmable." +"I have a 1979 15HP manual start Yamaha. When you start it, it will consume all the gas in the filter bowl and then shut off. +I prime (pump bulb) it until the bowl fills , start it and it does the same thing. What could be my problem? Is it a fuel pump or am I letting air get in somewhere. I looked at the diaphrams and they look and feel fine. I have no idea if you can look at them and tell If they are good or bad. Any help will be appreciated.","Doyle said: + + + + You may have caused another problem working on the pump. However getting back to basics. Replace the fuel line from the tank to the motor, getting the hose from a marine dealer not auto parts house. I am 65 have seem hoses collapse from the inside, the fuel suction will close an old deteriated hose. Another trick is to cut a V in the pick up tube in the tank if not already done as in some circumstantes the pick up tube will get flat on the bottom of the tank and create a vacuum. + Good luck. + +Click to expand... + + +OK, I've done everything everyone has suggested plus I put in a carburetor kit. When I first fired it up, it would only run with the choke out, as soon as you pushed the choke in it would shut off. I played with the adjustment screws and I think it running like it should. I'll know when I put it in the water. Thanks for every ones help and and suggestions.","Doyle said: + + + + You may have caused another problem working on the pump. However getting back to basics. Replace the fuel line from the tank to the motor, getting the hose from a marine dealer not auto parts house. I am 65 have seem hoses collapse from the inside, the fuel suction will close an old deteriated hose. Another trick is to cut a V in the pick up tube in the tank if not already done as in some circumstantes the pick up tube will get flat on the bottom of the tank and create a vacuum. + Good luck. + +Click to expand... + + +OK, I've done everything everyone has suggested plus I put in a carburetor kit. When I first fired it up, it would only run with the choke out, as soon as you pushed the choke in it would shut off. I played with the adjustment screws and I think it running like it should. I'll know when I put it in the water. Thanks for every ones help and and suggestions.","boscoe said: + + + + So what do you think is the problem? By the way, the green/white wire does not come from or go to the pulser coil. + +Click to expand... + + correct it does not, it goes to the lighting coil. so I pulled the dly wheel off, fixed the wire. still no voltage to cylinder 2. I installed the the cdi I ordered off ebay and checked all three cylinders and they all check now have. 2v while idling and every cylinder has spark. I'm going to try to take it out on the water tmw evening to try it out. so as of now, it was a bad cdi. I'll update tmw." +"I have a 1979 15HP manual start Yamaha. When you start it, it will consume all the gas in the filter bowl and then shut off. +I prime (pump bulb) it until the bowl fills , start it and it does the same thing. What could be my problem? Is it a fuel pump or am I letting air get in somewhere. I looked at the diaphrams and they look and feel fine. I have no idea if you can look at them and tell If they are good or bad. Any help will be appreciated.",Please let us know if you are running fine now.,Please let us know if you are running fine now.,Ditto +"Replaced water pump, full kit. Replaced Thermostat and cleaned sensor. +Motor pees ok in normal neutral. Motor pees better in faster neutral. +(sensor/alarm does not go off) + +Place engine in gear and within a few seconds peeing stops and sensor/alarm sounds. + +PLEASE HELP + +WHAT IS WRONG? + +ALL ADVISE IS APPRECIATED...","Is it doing this with the boat and engine in the water, the engine in a trash can filled with water, or the engine dry and hooked up to ear muffs and a garden hose?","Is it doing this with the boat and engine in the water, the engine in a trash can filled with water, or the engine dry and hooked up to ear muffs and a garden hose?","Even at 7500 feet? + + I'm taking it in Monday to the dealer. I get the feeling that I'll get the ""We couldn't find anything wrong with it"" response though. I'll post back on here when I get it back." +"I have a 2000 Yamaha 6hp 2 stroke that I bought second hand a couple of years ago The motor starts and runs very reliably. I am using it on a 12' boat for trolling and operate mostly at low speed. At low speed it runs a little rough and on occasion quits. I am trying to run in the 1.5 to 2.5 mph range which is typical for trolling for lake trout. Is it possible to improve low speed performance by tuning and if so what needs to be done? + +Last year I had the impeller replaced and nearly had a heart attack due to the cost. Does anyone know where I can find a description of how to remove the gear foot to access the impeller in the future? I have had the bolts out but can't figure out how the shift rod comes apart. + +At high speeds performance is fine but I get a high pitch squeal or whine but have no idea of what it is coming from? + + +Any advice/insight would be appreciated.",Should be no more than one hr labour -How much was your repair bill ??--Fairly simple process.-----Whine ?----Check your gear oil ASAP.,Should be no more than one hr labour -How much was your repair bill ??--Fairly simple process.-----Whine ?----Check your gear oil ASAP.,Thank you +"I have a 2000 Yamaha 6hp 2 stroke that I bought second hand a couple of years ago The motor starts and runs very reliably. I am using it on a 12' boat for trolling and operate mostly at low speed. At low speed it runs a little rough and on occasion quits. I am trying to run in the 1.5 to 2.5 mph range which is typical for trolling for lake trout. Is it possible to improve low speed performance by tuning and if so what needs to be done? + +Last year I had the impeller replaced and nearly had a heart attack due to the cost. Does anyone know where I can find a description of how to remove the gear foot to access the impeller in the future? I have had the bolts out but can't figure out how the shift rod comes apart. + +At high speeds performance is fine but I get a high pitch squeal or whine but have no idea of what it is coming from? + + +Any advice/insight would be appreciated.",125 to replace the impeller. I changed the gear oil last fall but not change in noise at high speed.,125 to replace the impeller. I changed the gear oil last fall but not change in noise at high speed.,No. The red wire is battery power. On all of the time. Yellow is the wire for key on power. +"I have a 2000 Yamaha 6hp 2 stroke that I bought second hand a couple of years ago The motor starts and runs very reliably. I am using it on a 12' boat for trolling and operate mostly at low speed. At low speed it runs a little rough and on occasion quits. I am trying to run in the 1.5 to 2.5 mph range which is typical for trolling for lake trout. Is it possible to improve low speed performance by tuning and if so what needs to be done? + +Last year I had the impeller replaced and nearly had a heart attack due to the cost. Does anyone know where I can find a description of how to remove the gear foot to access the impeller in the future? I have had the bolts out but can't figure out how the shift rod comes apart. + +At high speeds performance is fine but I get a high pitch squeal or whine but have no idea of what it is coming from? + + +Any advice/insight would be appreciated.","For ultra low speed trolling in a small boat with a small engine, don't play with the engine settings... Tie an empty 5 gallon bucket to a line and toss it off the stern to create some drag.","For ultra low speed trolling in a small boat with a small engine, don't play with the engine settings... Tie an empty 5 gallon bucket to a line and toss it off the stern to create some drag.","Ayuh,...... W h y do you need ballast,..??..??" +"Hi boaters, + +Pretty frustrating as I've called a few places only to find out they don't carry a replacement fuel pump for my 2007, yamaha 25 HP 2 stroke (model MSH). Am I missing something here? I checked my manual, there is no replacement part listed for the fuel pump. + +Just some background. My motor coughs/backfires at low rpms, does not do this at higher RPM's. Motor starts fine, gas was recently replaced. I opened up my cowling for a visual inspection the other day to find a tiny bit of fuel/oil underneath my fuel pump. I wonder if my motor symptoms could be from a faulty fuel pump? + +The motor is also idling at high RPM's (like 1.5 RPM), but I think this is a separate issue that may have to do with idle/mix screw. + +Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I could take the skiff out now, but it's a pain to dock due to coughing/high rpm at idle. I can call a guy, but both seem like a simple fix that maybe I could do myself. Thanks everyone and really look forward to hearing some responses! + +-Brad",Do you have a model # by chance ?----2 stroke or 4 stroke motor ?----Have you looked on -------boats.net-----Some parts are listed there.,Do you have a model # by chance ?----2 stroke or 4 stroke motor ?----Have you looked on -------boats.net-----Some parts are listed there.,"PROBLEM SOLVED , PROBLEM SOLVED , PROBLEM SOLVED +I disconected the oil pressur switch wire and taped it up ! Took it out for a ride for a good hour . +PROBLEM SOLVED" +"Hi boaters, + +Pretty frustrating as I've called a few places only to find out they don't carry a replacement fuel pump for my 2007, yamaha 25 HP 2 stroke (model MSH). Am I missing something here? I checked my manual, there is no replacement part listed for the fuel pump. + +Just some background. My motor coughs/backfires at low rpms, does not do this at higher RPM's. Motor starts fine, gas was recently replaced. I opened up my cowling for a visual inspection the other day to find a tiny bit of fuel/oil underneath my fuel pump. I wonder if my motor symptoms could be from a faulty fuel pump? + +The motor is also idling at high RPM's (like 1.5 RPM), but I think this is a separate issue that may have to do with idle/mix screw. + +Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I could take the skiff out now, but it's a pain to dock due to coughing/high rpm at idle. I can call a guy, but both seem like a simple fix that maybe I could do myself. Thanks everyone and really look forward to hearing some responses! + +-Brad","racerone said: + + + + Do you have a model # by chance ?----2 stroke or 4 stroke motor ?----Have you looked on -------boats.net-----Some parts are listed there. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, sorry. + +It's a 2 stroke (model MSH). + +I checked a few websites, still nada. Maybe I'm not looking in the right spots? I even checked the existing fuel pump itself, no part # there either.","racerone said: + + + + Do you have a model # by chance ?----2 stroke or 4 stroke motor ?----Have you looked on -------boats.net-----Some parts are listed there. + +Click to expand... + + +Yes, sorry. + +It's a 2 stroke (model MSH). + +I checked a few websites, still nada. Maybe I'm not looking in the right spots? I even checked the existing fuel pump itself, no part # there either.",i have a 2000. might be interested the next time i have that type of problem. what is cost/ballpark? +"Hi boaters, + +Pretty frustrating as I've called a few places only to find out they don't carry a replacement fuel pump for my 2007, yamaha 25 HP 2 stroke (model MSH). Am I missing something here? I checked my manual, there is no replacement part listed for the fuel pump. + +Just some background. My motor coughs/backfires at low rpms, does not do this at higher RPM's. Motor starts fine, gas was recently replaced. I opened up my cowling for a visual inspection the other day to find a tiny bit of fuel/oil underneath my fuel pump. I wonder if my motor symptoms could be from a faulty fuel pump? + +The motor is also idling at high RPM's (like 1.5 RPM), but I think this is a separate issue that may have to do with idle/mix screw. + +Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I could take the skiff out now, but it's a pain to dock due to coughing/high rpm at idle. I can call a guy, but both seem like a simple fix that maybe I could do myself. Thanks everyone and really look forward to hearing some responses! + +-Brad","The fuel pump is right where the Yamaha parts catalog says that it is. + +From what I am reading, the fuel pump is not the problem.","The fuel pump is right where the Yamaha parts catalog says that it is. + +From what I am reading, the fuel pump is not the problem.",When you disconnect the cables let us know what its doing and take it from there. +"Hi boaters, + +Pretty frustrating as I've called a few places only to find out they don't carry a replacement fuel pump for my 2007, yamaha 25 HP 2 stroke (model MSH). Am I missing something here? I checked my manual, there is no replacement part listed for the fuel pump. + +Just some background. My motor coughs/backfires at low rpms, does not do this at higher RPM's. Motor starts fine, gas was recently replaced. I opened up my cowling for a visual inspection the other day to find a tiny bit of fuel/oil underneath my fuel pump. I wonder if my motor symptoms could be from a faulty fuel pump? + +The motor is also idling at high RPM's (like 1.5 RPM), but I think this is a separate issue that may have to do with idle/mix screw. + +Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I could take the skiff out now, but it's a pain to dock due to coughing/high rpm at idle. I can call a guy, but both seem like a simple fix that maybe I could do myself. Thanks everyone and really look forward to hearing some responses! + +-Brad","boscoe said: + + + + The fuel pump is right where the Yamaha parts catalog says that it is. + +From what I am reading, the fuel pump is not the problem. + + + + + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for the diagram boscoe, but were you able to find a part # for the fuel pump? Could you elaborate a little more on why you don't feel it's the fuel pump causing the issues? I appreciate any thoughts on the matter really. + +There is a small drip of fuel coming from underneath the fuel pump itself, but that could also maybe be the fuel line. I just wonder what is making the motor cough at low RPM's and how I can lower the RPM's at neutral.","boscoe said: + + + + The fuel pump is right where the Yamaha parts catalog says that it is. + +From what I am reading, the fuel pump is not the problem. + + + + + +Click to expand... + + +Thank you for the diagram boscoe, but were you able to find a part # for the fuel pump? Could you elaborate a little more on why you don't feel it's the fuel pump causing the issues? I appreciate any thoughts on the matter really. + +There is a small drip of fuel coming from underneath the fuel pump itself, but that could also maybe be the fuel line. I just wonder what is making the motor cough at low RPM's and how I can lower the RPM's at neutral.","Take it back to the dealer.------Did they not run it for you , show you how to operate this motor ?" +"Hi boaters, + +Pretty frustrating as I've called a few places only to find out they don't carry a replacement fuel pump for my 2007, yamaha 25 HP 2 stroke (model MSH). Am I missing something here? I checked my manual, there is no replacement part listed for the fuel pump. + +Just some background. My motor coughs/backfires at low rpms, does not do this at higher RPM's. Motor starts fine, gas was recently replaced. I opened up my cowling for a visual inspection the other day to find a tiny bit of fuel/oil underneath my fuel pump. I wonder if my motor symptoms could be from a faulty fuel pump? + +The motor is also idling at high RPM's (like 1.5 RPM), but I think this is a separate issue that may have to do with idle/mix screw. + +Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I could take the skiff out now, but it's a pain to dock due to coughing/high rpm at idle. I can call a guy, but both seem like a simple fix that maybe I could do myself. Thanks everyone and really look forward to hearing some responses! + +-Brad","As I see it the pump does not come as a separate and complete assembly. Maybe that is what you are looking for. It is integral to the fuel bowl which is available for purchase. Item 3 in the illustration above. However, all of the piece parts that comprise the fuel pump can be purchased. Why buy a bunch of stuff you don't need if for instance just a diaphragm has gone bad. + +Coughing and back firing is indicative of a lean air/fuel mixture. The fact that the motor runs well when at high power tells me the fuel pump is doing the job that it needs to do. + +Running at high idle RPM could also be related to the air/fuel mix and/or just a simple idle RPM adjustment. + +Now if there is a fuel leak then get that fixed. It could be related to the problem you are having. Fuel leaks are not normal and can be problematic at the least and dangerous at the worst. + +Are you the original owner? Has anyone ever messed with the idle air jet and/or the idle RPM adjustment screw? Is the choke adjusted properly?","As I see it the pump does not come as a separate and complete assembly. Maybe that is what you are looking for. It is integral to the fuel bowl which is available for purchase. Item 3 in the illustration above. However, all of the piece parts that comprise the fuel pump can be purchased. Why buy a bunch of stuff you don't need if for instance just a diaphragm has gone bad. + +Coughing and back firing is indicative of a lean air/fuel mixture. The fact that the motor runs well when at high power tells me the fuel pump is doing the job that it needs to do. + +Running at high idle RPM could also be related to the air/fuel mix and/or just a simple idle RPM adjustment. + +Now if there is a fuel leak then get that fixed. It could be related to the problem you are having. Fuel leaks are not normal and can be problematic at the least and dangerous at the worst. + +Are you the original owner? Has anyone ever messed with the idle air jet and/or the idle RPM adjustment screw? Is the choke adjusted properly?",Do you have a fuse block with a extra slot? Is you spot light going to be permanent? If so hard wire it with a fuse on the hot side and put your switch on the dash? Always use tinned marine grade wire when adding accys. Fuse everything. +"Hi boaters, + +Pretty frustrating as I've called a few places only to find out they don't carry a replacement fuel pump for my 2007, yamaha 25 HP 2 stroke (model MSH). Am I missing something here? I checked my manual, there is no replacement part listed for the fuel pump. + +Just some background. My motor coughs/backfires at low rpms, does not do this at higher RPM's. Motor starts fine, gas was recently replaced. I opened up my cowling for a visual inspection the other day to find a tiny bit of fuel/oil underneath my fuel pump. I wonder if my motor symptoms could be from a faulty fuel pump? + +The motor is also idling at high RPM's (like 1.5 RPM), but I think this is a separate issue that may have to do with idle/mix screw. + +Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I could take the skiff out now, but it's a pain to dock due to coughing/high rpm at idle. I can call a guy, but both seem like a simple fix that maybe I could do myself. Thanks everyone and really look forward to hearing some responses! + +-Brad","boscoe said: + + + + As I see it the pump does not come as a separate and complete assembly. Maybe that is what you are looking for. It is integral to the fuel bowl which is available for purchase. Item 3 in the illustration above. However, all of the piece parts that comprise the fuel pump can be purchased. Why buy a bunch of stuff you don't need if for instance just a diaphragm has gone bad. + +Coughing and back firing is indicative of a lean air/fuel mixture. The fact that the motor runs well when at high power tells me the fuel pump is doing the job that it needs to do. + +Running at high idle RPM could also be related to the air/fuel mix and/or just a simple idle RPM adjustment. + +Now if there is a fuel leak then get that fixed. It could be related to the problem you are having. Fuel leaks are not normal and can be problematic at the least and dangerous at the worst. + +Are you the original owner? Has anyone ever messed with the idle air jet and/or the idle RPM adjustment screw? Is the choke adjusted properly? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the response and your time once again, Roscoe. + +I am actually not the original owner and I do know the previous owner mentioned he has messed with the idle adjustment screw before. I'm thinking this is part of the problem, at least with the high RPM's at idle. The choke seems fine. Do you think the coughing at low RPM (<2 RPM) also has something to do with the idle adjustment? I hope so because it sounds like a simple fix. As for the leak, it's not very much at all, just very little oil that I found on the bottom of the fuel pump. + +I'm thinking of turning idle adjustment screw once the motor is warmed up tomorrow and turning it counter clockwise until the RPM's begin to lower at idle. Would you agree that this is the best approach? If the manual says the idle adjustment should be at 3 1/4 turns for example, does that start from turning the screw counterclockwise all the way to the beginning to where it is loose and then counting 3 1/4 turns? Also, does the engine have to be warmed up before adjusting the screw or can I do it before starting it up? It's a lot easier when motor is off and not shaking to adjust, but whatever is best. + +Sorry for all the questions, basic ones at that. I'm great at fixing things in the house, not so much with boats. Thanks Roscoe!","boscoe said: + + + + As I see it the pump does not come as a separate and complete assembly. Maybe that is what you are looking for. It is integral to the fuel bowl which is available for purchase. Item 3 in the illustration above. However, all of the piece parts that comprise the fuel pump can be purchased. Why buy a bunch of stuff you don't need if for instance just a diaphragm has gone bad. + +Coughing and back firing is indicative of a lean air/fuel mixture. The fact that the motor runs well when at high power tells me the fuel pump is doing the job that it needs to do. + +Running at high idle RPM could also be related to the air/fuel mix and/or just a simple idle RPM adjustment. + +Now if there is a fuel leak then get that fixed. It could be related to the problem you are having. Fuel leaks are not normal and can be problematic at the least and dangerous at the worst. + +Are you the original owner? Has anyone ever messed with the idle air jet and/or the idle RPM adjustment screw? Is the choke adjusted properly? + +Click to expand... + + +Thanks for the response and your time once again, Roscoe. + +I am actually not the original owner and I do know the previous owner mentioned he has messed with the idle adjustment screw before. I'm thinking this is part of the problem, at least with the high RPM's at idle. The choke seems fine. Do you think the coughing at low RPM (<2 RPM) also has something to do with the idle adjustment? I hope so because it sounds like a simple fix. As for the leak, it's not very much at all, just very little oil that I found on the bottom of the fuel pump. + +I'm thinking of turning idle adjustment screw once the motor is warmed up tomorrow and turning it counter clockwise until the RPM's begin to lower at idle. Would you agree that this is the best approach? If the manual says the idle adjustment should be at 3 1/4 turns for example, does that start from turning the screw counterclockwise all the way to the beginning to where it is loose and then counting 3 1/4 turns? Also, does the engine have to be warmed up before adjusting the screw or can I do it before starting it up? It's a lot easier when motor is off and not shaking to adjust, but whatever is best. + +Sorry for all the questions, basic ones at that. I'm great at fixing things in the house, not so much with boats. Thanks Roscoe!","This might be a long shot, but have you warmed the engine up thoroughly before backing out? +I have the identical power plant, (2008), with 322 hours. +it has never liked being put in reverse when cold. +It starts instantly, (use only a single stroke of the throttle to set the choke), then, as long as I let it idle til temp gets to around 140F, it never misses a beat. Try to back out 30 seconds after starting, it will die." +"Hi boaters, + +Pretty frustrating as I've called a few places only to find out they don't carry a replacement fuel pump for my 2007, yamaha 25 HP 2 stroke (model MSH). Am I missing something here? I checked my manual, there is no replacement part listed for the fuel pump. + +Just some background. My motor coughs/backfires at low rpms, does not do this at higher RPM's. Motor starts fine, gas was recently replaced. I opened up my cowling for a visual inspection the other day to find a tiny bit of fuel/oil underneath my fuel pump. I wonder if my motor symptoms could be from a faulty fuel pump? + +The motor is also idling at high RPM's (like 1.5 RPM), but I think this is a separate issue that may have to do with idle/mix screw. + +Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I could take the skiff out now, but it's a pain to dock due to coughing/high rpm at idle. I can call a guy, but both seem like a simple fix that maybe I could do myself. Thanks everyone and really look forward to hearing some responses! + +-Brad","Just an update for anyone who may need this help down the road searching the internet like I did...Never did hear from Roscoe again or anyone else for that matter and that's a shame because a lot of people need help out there with their boats. + +I ended up fixing the problem as it was the RPM idle adjustment (do this while running and watch the RPM gauge until you get the right idle speed a little < 1 rpm for me). I also added some seafoam and now I don't get any misfires and idles beautifully. Just remember when doing your idle adjustment that a little turning does a lot and counterclockwise reduces the idle speed and clockwise increases it. If anyone needs help down the road with this, just pm me, but it was fairly simple overall once you locate the right screw under to cowling.","Just an update for anyone who may need this help down the road searching the internet like I did...Never did hear from Roscoe again or anyone else for that matter and that's a shame because a lot of people need help out there with their boats. + +I ended up fixing the problem as it was the RPM idle adjustment (do this while running and watch the RPM gauge until you get the right idle speed a little < 1 rpm for me). I also added some seafoam and now I don't get any misfires and idles beautifully. Just remember when doing your idle adjustment that a little turning does a lot and counterclockwise reduces the idle speed and clockwise increases it. If anyone needs help down the road with this, just pm me, but it was fairly simple overall once you locate the right screw under to cowling.",Also I just noticed that while the boat is running I can push in the key to choke it and it continues to run the same. Could that be an issue? +"Hi boaters, + +Pretty frustrating as I've called a few places only to find out they don't carry a replacement fuel pump for my 2007, yamaha 25 HP 2 stroke (model MSH). Am I missing something here? I checked my manual, there is no replacement part listed for the fuel pump. + +Just some background. My motor coughs/backfires at low rpms, does not do this at higher RPM's. Motor starts fine, gas was recently replaced. I opened up my cowling for a visual inspection the other day to find a tiny bit of fuel/oil underneath my fuel pump. I wonder if my motor symptoms could be from a faulty fuel pump? + +The motor is also idling at high RPM's (like 1.5 RPM), but I think this is a separate issue that may have to do with idle/mix screw. + +Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I could take the skiff out now, but it's a pain to dock due to coughing/high rpm at idle. I can call a guy, but both seem like a simple fix that maybe I could do myself. Thanks everyone and really look forward to hearing some responses! + +-Brad","Seafoam is a great thing. I will caution you and all with 2 stroke outboards... With the introduction of ethanol in our fuel, you can get major gumming issues in all outboards. When it comes to 2-stroke outboards, it can be especially deadly. Be sure to use the green marine Stabil ALL THE TIME. When it comes to winter storage, if you don't fog it and let it run itself out of gas, at least pull the fuel line and let it run until it runs itself out of gas and squirt some oil in the cylinders and then dry crank for 2 seconds. I fried a cylinder in a 75HP 2-stroke because I had a little gum built up in one of the brass fuel jets on one of the three carbs. It idled fine and it ran well but at high RPM it came up short on the top end. I didn't think too much of it but that one cylinder out of the three was receiving maybe 40% less fuel than it should have. That means it was getting less lubrication than it should have. Rings fried, cylinder walls scored, costly mistake. For craps and giggles, take those brass fuel jets out of the carbs each spring and make sure the orifices are perfectly clear and clean. Blast them with carb cleaner and run a thin copper wire through them to clear any really tough gum out (copper is softer than brass so it shouldn't scratch them and provide a place for gum to build up quickly). As they say, 2-strokes can last forever so long as they are run on a regular basis. Let them sit with this ethanol fuel in them and that will be the kiss of death.","Seafoam is a great thing. I will caution you and all with 2 stroke outboards... With the introduction of ethanol in our fuel, you can get major gumming issues in all outboards. When it comes to 2-stroke outboards, it can be especially deadly. Be sure to use the green marine Stabil ALL THE TIME. When it comes to winter storage, if you don't fog it and let it run itself out of gas, at least pull the fuel line and let it run until it runs itself out of gas and squirt some oil in the cylinders and then dry crank for 2 seconds. I fried a cylinder in a 75HP 2-stroke because I had a little gum built up in one of the brass fuel jets on one of the three carbs. It idled fine and it ran well but at high RPM it came up short on the top end. I didn't think too much of it but that one cylinder out of the three was receiving maybe 40% less fuel than it should have. That means it was getting less lubrication than it should have. Rings fried, cylinder walls scored, costly mistake. For craps and giggles, take those brass fuel jets out of the carbs each spring and make sure the orifices are perfectly clear and clean. Blast them with carb cleaner and run a thin copper wire through them to clear any really tough gum out (copper is softer than brass so it shouldn't scratch them and provide a place for gum to build up quickly). As they say, 2-strokes can last forever so long as they are run on a regular basis. Let them sit with this ethanol fuel in them and that will be the kiss of death.",i would be very careful eliminating the spring...as doing so may eliminate the anti-syphon feature which would be my primary concern...and may be something that engineer may not know about....just my two cents... +"I purchased a used Yamaha 4hp 2 Stroke motor. I do not have the exact year but it is approximately 10 years old. It runs great out of the water. Starts right up and runs fine in a big barrel of water. It is used on a 12 foot small aluminum boat. I took the motor out on the water. It started right up but when I apply throttle it stalls right away. I started it up again and the same thing happened. I could not start it again during that outing. I had to paddle home. My arms still hurt I had nothing in the boat except for myself and I cant imagine the motor being underpowered. Do I need to let it warm for a long period of time? What could be the issue? Damn Craigslist... Any help would greatly be appreciated. + +Thank you for the help, +Andy","Andy... If you are a DIY'er and are handy, go to your nearest auto parts place and buy a few cans of carb cleaner with the straws attached as well as that 1 gallon bucket of carb cleaner with the submersion screen included that you can pull the carbs and submerge them for a while. Sink the carbs after you have pulled them and saved all the gaskest. Then sink all for the recommended period of time and then pull it and blow all out of the little orifices you can find on them with the carb cleaner and that straw. Put them back with the gaskets you saved and see if that fixes your problem. Save all the rubber gaskets you find when you break the carbs down and don't sink them in that carb cleaner... They are usually fine and can often be re-used for one break down if they look OK.","Andy... If you are a DIY'er and are handy, go to your nearest auto parts place and buy a few cans of carb cleaner with the straws attached as well as that 1 gallon bucket of carb cleaner with the submersion screen included that you can pull the carbs and submerge them for a while. Sink the carbs after you have pulled them and saved all the gaskest. Then sink all for the recommended period of time and then pull it and blow all out of the little orifices you can find on them with the carb cleaner and that straw. Put them back with the gaskets you saved and see if that fixes your problem. Save all the rubber gaskets you find when you break the carbs down and don't sink them in that carb cleaner... They are usually fine and can often be re-used for one break down if they look OK.","Ayuh,...... 1 will work just fine, til it fills with water,.... + +Havin' 2 just doubles the leak potential,.... + +Changin', 'n inspectin' the contents of the filter at the 1st sign of a problem, or annually, is the Best practice,...." +"I purchased a used Yamaha 4hp 2 Stroke motor. I do not have the exact year but it is approximately 10 years old. It runs great out of the water. Starts right up and runs fine in a big barrel of water. It is used on a 12 foot small aluminum boat. I took the motor out on the water. It started right up but when I apply throttle it stalls right away. I started it up again and the same thing happened. I could not start it again during that outing. I had to paddle home. My arms still hurt I had nothing in the boat except for myself and I cant imagine the motor being underpowered. Do I need to let it warm for a long period of time? What could be the issue? Damn Craigslist... Any help would greatly be appreciated. + +Thank you for the help, +Andy",step 1: compression test,step 1: compression test,I don't think it is doable with the electronic controls. Not needed. The engine is designed to automatically run a bit faster than normal when it is cold. The idle speed will come down once the motor is out of warm up mode. +"Well at the 200 hour mark I decided to check out a few things getting ready for summer activities, so I check the oil and yep it's VERY HIGH! first time I'v had this issue in the 12 or so years I've had the boat. So I pull the thermostat and sure enough STUCK OPEN. + +Is it everyone's consensus that this will cause and engine to ""Make Oil""? + +Also should I replace it with a hotter thermostat? I believe there OEM is 50C and there may be a 60C option?",Also I've been reading that a busted fuel pump diaphragm can create the same situation???,Also I've been reading that a busted fuel pump diaphragm can create the same situation???,"You can buy a ""Grayscale display"" fish finder without GPS, the price is less than 100USD :http://www.boatfishfinder.com/tag/grayscale-display/" +"Well at the 200 hour mark I decided to check out a few things getting ready for summer activities, so I check the oil and yep it's VERY HIGH! first time I'v had this issue in the 12 or so years I've had the boat. So I pull the thermostat and sure enough STUCK OPEN. + +Is it everyone's consensus that this will cause and engine to ""Make Oil""? + +Also should I replace it with a hotter thermostat? I believe there OEM is 50C and there may be a 60C option?","Yeah... I have the same engine. Making oil seems most commonly associated with a failure of the mechanical fuel pump diaphram that you can easily replace. The thermostat has nothing to do with it. Ummm... As an old time outboard tech told me long ago... for craps and giggles, replace that thermostat every other year... thermostats are cheap, engines are expensive. Don't fry a $15K engine over a $25 thermostat!","Yeah... I have the same engine. Making oil seems most commonly associated with a failure of the mechanical fuel pump diaphram that you can easily replace. The thermostat has nothing to do with it. Ummm... As an old time outboard tech told me long ago... for craps and giggles, replace that thermostat every other year... thermostats are cheap, engines are expensive. Don't fry a $15K engine over a $25 thermostat!","a '64 hull you're willing to dump $10K in...????? Wow!! + +Hard to tell from a pic.....better off getting a few quotes from reputable shops. + +If the gelcoat on it is gone, better off painting it. Make sure the hull is sound before starting - floor and transom are your worry spots....the hull should be bulletproof due to its age." +"I just purchased a used f90txrd. Currently it seems to randomly miss during Idle running on a garden hose. checked the fuel filter, spark plugs, and compression (195/191/199/197). tried squeezing the fuel ball when motor is in idle with no difference in effect. engine starts to run smooth if throttle is increased. currently do not have the correct tach for the motor will the tach from a 98 50hp yamaha (has an adjustment dial on the back) work as it wires into the control and does register rpms (not sure how exact it would be.). Any suggestions would be helpful. + +Currently I do not have the diagnostic cable or software for this motor so I can't provide any of the onboard diagnostics as of yet. + +Tried different gas as well.","Garden hose running causes strange things to happen. These high tech motors measure everything and running on a garden hose introduces things their ""brain"" isn't programmed to deal with. I'd say, put it in the water and use it normally and see if you have the same idle issues. Even exhaust back pressure from the engine expelling exhaust underwater as it normally would will play with the CPU's attempts to compensate to an environment it wasn't programmed to work in.","Garden hose running causes strange things to happen. These high tech motors measure everything and running on a garden hose introduces things their ""brain"" isn't programmed to deal with. I'd say, put it in the water and use it normally and see if you have the same idle issues. Even exhaust back pressure from the engine expelling exhaust underwater as it normally would will play with the CPU's attempts to compensate to an environment it wasn't programmed to work in.",without knowing the details of the boat wiring it is hard to help you....the last question you asked is a definite no on straight 115 house wiring...cut the house breaker off and leave everything plugged in...take a ohmmeter and you should read zero or close to it between neutral and ground if you unplug the heater receptacle and read back towards the source...i assume you have a ground wired to the heater end of the plug that goes into the receptacle that plugs in to connect the heater.....what i think you have is neutral and hot swapped somewhere on the boat...and if you got a generator that will complicate things... +Is there enough benefit to put Iridium plugs over standard OEM?,"Does the engine mfg suggest Iridium plugs? + +NGK LFR6A-11","Does the engine mfg suggest Iridium plugs? + +NGK LFR6A-11","It is not an air adjustment screw. It is a fuel adjustment screw. + +The Yamaha 2007 manual does not give information for the adjustment screw. Should be an EPA plug/cap blocking access to the screw. If and when that plug/cap is removed, the procedure is to turn the screw inwards, counting the number of turns until the screw is lightly seated. Then use that as your setting when the carburetor has been cleaned and is being reassembled." +Is there enough benefit to put Iridium plugs over standard OEM?,I don't think so. Manual calls for NGK LFR6A-11 Standard Spark Plug. Just wondered if maybe they were better in an irdium version,I don't think so. Manual calls for NGK LFR6A-11 Standard Spark Plug. Just wondered if maybe they were better in an irdium version,"Place batteries on a block of wood,not on concrete,preferably in an area that's not going to freeze and put a trickle charger on them" +Is there enough benefit to put Iridium plugs over standard OEM?,"I have the same engine and just use the plugs specified. Never had a problem with plugs. Plugs last forever these days and if they fail you have other issues causing them to fail in outboards given their use by recreational boaters. 100,000 miles on a car before plug problems show up? On a boat the plugs should last for years and years.","I have the same engine and just use the plugs specified. Never had a problem with plugs. Plugs last forever these days and if they fail you have other issues causing them to fail in outboards given their use by recreational boaters. 100,000 miles on a car before plug problems show up? On a boat the plugs should last for years and years.","In a word, if I understand you correctly, - no. There is an 'electrical law' called ""Ohms Law"". Basically what it says is that the voltage drop through any item (in this case maybe a bad cable connection) equals the Resistance of that item (R) x the current (I). In other words the voltage (V) lost across the bad cable is calculated as V=IxR. So the amount of voltage at the solenoid is the battery voltage ~12.8v less the voltage drop across the cables. Drops too much voltage in the cables and there won't be enough at the engine. This is why you need to use bigger diameter cables (bigger diameter = lower resistance) for longer cable runs or larger engines etc. Hope this makes sense." +Motor will not tilt trim up. Goes down no problem. Can hear tilt motor running but it's not moving more than just a little bit.,"Have you checked the fluid level in the trim system? Sounds like it's very low on fluid as it pumps so much and stops while the motor keeps running as it can't build more pressure. Check to see that it is fully filled. If not, fill it and cycle up and down while checking for any leaks throughout the hydraulic lines as it must have leaked somewhere. The hydraulic fluid doesn't vanish or burn away so I'd say there is a leak in the system somewhere if it is low. Unless you find the leak, it will work for a while and then you'll run into the same thing as the level gradually drops and you'll find when trying to trim up it will stop at lower and lower angles of trim.Google ""changing fluid on yamaha outboard power trim"" and you'll find lots of info and videos how to check and do it.","Have you checked the fluid level in the trim system? Sounds like it's very low on fluid as it pumps so much and stops while the motor keeps running as it can't build more pressure. Check to see that it is fully filled. If not, fill it and cycle up and down while checking for any leaks throughout the hydraulic lines as it must have leaked somewhere. The hydraulic fluid doesn't vanish or burn away so I'd say there is a leak in the system somewhere if it is low. Unless you find the leak, it will work for a while and then you'll run into the same thing as the level gradually drops and you'll find when trying to trim up it will stop at lower and lower angles of trim.Google ""changing fluid on yamaha outboard power trim"" and you'll find lots of info and videos how to check and do it.",Test run with a portable fuel tank and hose.---Change fuel filters. +I have a 1996 yamaha 40hp 2 stroke every time I put the throttle forword the engine die.,Where is the rest of the story ?----------Did this happen all of a sudden ? -----Just bought the motor ?---------Checked for water in the fuel ? ---------------Has the motor sat for a long time ?,Where is the rest of the story ?----------Did this happen all of a sudden ? -----Just bought the motor ?---------Checked for water in the fuel ? ---------------Has the motor sat for a long time ?,"Just do what your selling dealer service manager recommends, then the warranty stands" +I have a 1996 yamaha 40hp 2 stroke every time I put the throttle forword the engine die.,"I'd bet the carbs need cleaned. Those little brass pin hole orifices have a way of getting clogged... especially after storage if you didn't winterize, run it out of fuel, etc. prior to storage. You can thank ethanol like the rest of us. Start using the marine stabil or ethanol fuel stabilizer all the time.","I'd bet the carbs need cleaned. Those little brass pin hole orifices have a way of getting clogged... especially after storage if you didn't winterize, run it out of fuel, etc. prior to storage. You can thank ethanol like the rest of us. Start using the marine stabil or ethanol fuel stabilizer all the time.",Thats a good point. I bought the motor as rebuilt and he told me there was new oil in there but I never looked. Its not a new problem the motor came with a new 703 remote and cables I fitted everything. The remote was a pull type and I had to change it to push type. I had to shorten the throttle cable end aswell because the cable was too long and throttle wouldnt go completely back with remote. Maybe I have done something wrong? +I have a 1996 yamaha 40hp 2 stroke every time I put the throttle forword the engine die.,"Additionally, especially on a 3-4-6 cylinder 2-stroke... You have to keep those carbs clean all the time. You may not notice one cylinder running lean due one of those carbs being 1/2 clogged. You can end up frying a cylinder, cooking your rings, and needing a full re-boring of the block. Been there, done that, and learned the hard way. I moved on to 4 strokes as they are more tollerant of neglect than 2 stroke that doesn't get run all the time. A 2 stroke's worst enemy is lack of use.","Additionally, especially on a 3-4-6 cylinder 2-stroke... You have to keep those carbs clean all the time. You may not notice one cylinder running lean due one of those carbs being 1/2 clogged. You can end up frying a cylinder, cooking your rings, and needing a full re-boring of the block. Been there, done that, and learned the hard way. I moved on to 4 strokes as they are more tollerant of neglect than 2 stroke that doesn't get run all the time. A 2 stroke's worst enemy is lack of use.","A light coating is normal in that area,There are no air filters, Check your oil injection hoses for security" +I have a 1996 yamaha 40hp 2 stroke every time I put the throttle forword the engine die.,"Hi guys, I am new the forum, I have a similar problem with my 1990 115hp yamaha motor. Sometime I come out ot the hole okay other time the motor stalls. If I slowly push the throttle forward and manual choke at the same time the motor never dies and the boat come out of the hole and plane with ease. Could this also be a dirty carb. or maybe something else? + +Thanks for you reply in advance.","Hi guys, I am new the forum, I have a similar problem with my 1990 115hp yamaha motor. Sometime I come out ot the hole okay other time the motor stalls. If I slowly push the throttle forward and manual choke at the same time the motor never dies and the boat come out of the hole and plane with ease. Could this also be a dirty carb. or maybe something else? + +Thanks for you reply in advance.",When the torque comes from the engine the pinion is PUSHED UP on most motors.----Don't think yours is any different. +"This is European motor with designation F9.9AM and 6G8 UL 702374 but doesn't seem to translate to U.S. model. Best I can figure it is basically model FT9.9EXK. I want to buy new carb but it is obsolete. So I am wondering if I can use the updated carb. My problems are that the automatic choke not working plus the screw for idle adjustment broken off carb body. I have adjusted the throttle control cable to get the idle correct for start up but choke not working. I am forced to start motor (motor converted to electric start) and wait for it to warm up before I can accelerate without stalling. Quite a pain! + +The difference I believe is only the automatic choke apparatus. They changed the carb in 1992. I have seen the new carb and all looks the same except the automatic choke and the throttle adjustment linkage which isn't a problem. The 1992 would fit on my motor. + +Here is my carb: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1985/FT9.9EXK/CARBURETOR/parts.html# + +Here is the 1992 carb: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1992/T9.9EXHQ/CARBURETOR/parts.html +The new carb choke has a temperature sensor solenoid which wires to an engine temperature sensor. If my '85 has a sensor where this could be attached I don't know about it. Will this work? + +So I am hoping to hear from anyone who understand this better than me. (that probably means anyone!) + +Thanks.","Are you sure as to the date of manufacture? + +Can you state which carburetor, by part number, that was installed on your motor?","Are you sure as to the date of manufacture? + +Can you state which carburetor, by part number, that was installed on your motor?","Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,... What's a MMC controller,..??" +"This is European motor with designation F9.9AM and 6G8 UL 702374 but doesn't seem to translate to U.S. model. Best I can figure it is basically model FT9.9EXK. I want to buy new carb but it is obsolete. So I am wondering if I can use the updated carb. My problems are that the automatic choke not working plus the screw for idle adjustment broken off carb body. I have adjusted the throttle control cable to get the idle correct for start up but choke not working. I am forced to start motor (motor converted to electric start) and wait for it to warm up before I can accelerate without stalling. Quite a pain! + +The difference I believe is only the automatic choke apparatus. They changed the carb in 1992. I have seen the new carb and all looks the same except the automatic choke and the throttle adjustment linkage which isn't a problem. The 1992 would fit on my motor. + +Here is my carb: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1985/FT9.9EXK/CARBURETOR/parts.html# + +Here is the 1992 carb: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1992/T9.9EXHQ/CARBURETOR/parts.html +The new carb choke has a temperature sensor solenoid which wires to an engine temperature sensor. If my '85 has a sensor where this could be attached I don't know about it. Will this work? + +So I am hoping to hear from anyone who understand this better than me. (that probably means anyone!) + +Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + Are you sure as to the date of manufacture? + +Can you state which carburetor, by part number, that was installed on your motor? + +Click to expand... + +No I can't be sure of the year as the plate on the motor doesn't match up with any I've found. The TEIKEI carb part number on the carb body is: + +7FE +6G809 + +Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + Are you sure as to the date of manufacture? + +Can you state which carburetor, by part number, that was installed on your motor? + +Click to expand... + +No I can't be sure of the year as the plate on the motor doesn't match up with any I've found. The TEIKEI carb part number on the carb body is: + +7FE +6G809 + +Thanks.","ClassicAQ said: + + + + Depends on the part. Obviously parts for an '80 are obsolete, but some parts could be replaced by a superseded part. Also, some of your engine parts have a part number on it. If what you're needing to replace does, google search the part number for replacement. + +Click to expand... + + + thank you" +"This is European motor with designation F9.9AM and 6G8 UL 702374 but doesn't seem to translate to U.S. model. Best I can figure it is basically model FT9.9EXK. I want to buy new carb but it is obsolete. So I am wondering if I can use the updated carb. My problems are that the automatic choke not working plus the screw for idle adjustment broken off carb body. I have adjusted the throttle control cable to get the idle correct for start up but choke not working. I am forced to start motor (motor converted to electric start) and wait for it to warm up before I can accelerate without stalling. Quite a pain! + +The difference I believe is only the automatic choke apparatus. They changed the carb in 1992. I have seen the new carb and all looks the same except the automatic choke and the throttle adjustment linkage which isn't a problem. The 1992 would fit on my motor. + +Here is my carb: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1985/FT9.9EXK/CARBURETOR/parts.html# + +Here is the 1992 carb: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1992/T9.9EXHQ/CARBURETOR/parts.html +The new carb choke has a temperature sensor solenoid which wires to an engine temperature sensor. If my '85 has a sensor where this could be attached I don't know about it. Will this work? + +So I am hoping to hear from anyone who understand this better than me. (that probably means anyone!) + +Thanks.","An FT9.9EXK used a 6G8-45301-01-00 carburetor. That carburetor has been replaced by a -09-00 that is available. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/parts.html?client=multipart&SKUs=6G8-14301-09-00+","An FT9.9EXK used a 6G8-45301-01-00 carburetor. That carburetor has been replaced by a -09-00 that is available. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/parts.html?client=multipart&SKUs=6G8-14301-09-00+","Dstecea said: + + + + And thank you for the reply. I don't mean to be a pain, I'm just annoyed with it. I have had it apart 5 times now and still can't use it. + +Click to expand... + + +I would take it apart one more time and post some pictures. +You are missing something." +"This is European motor with designation F9.9AM and 6G8 UL 702374 but doesn't seem to translate to U.S. model. Best I can figure it is basically model FT9.9EXK. I want to buy new carb but it is obsolete. So I am wondering if I can use the updated carb. My problems are that the automatic choke not working plus the screw for idle adjustment broken off carb body. I have adjusted the throttle control cable to get the idle correct for start up but choke not working. I am forced to start motor (motor converted to electric start) and wait for it to warm up before I can accelerate without stalling. Quite a pain! + +The difference I believe is only the automatic choke apparatus. They changed the carb in 1992. I have seen the new carb and all looks the same except the automatic choke and the throttle adjustment linkage which isn't a problem. The 1992 would fit on my motor. + +Here is my carb: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1985/FT9.9EXK/CARBURETOR/parts.html# + +Here is the 1992 carb: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1992/T9.9EXHQ/CARBURETOR/parts.html +The new carb choke has a temperature sensor solenoid which wires to an engine temperature sensor. If my '85 has a sensor where this could be attached I don't know about it. Will this work? + +So I am hoping to hear from anyone who understand this better than me. (that probably means anyone!) + +Thanks.","boscoe said: + + + + An FT9.9EXK used a 6G8-45301-01-00 carburetor. That carburetor has been replaced by a -09-00 that is available. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/parts.html?client=multipart&SKUs=6G8-14301-09-00+ + +Click to expand... + +Good find - I didn't see that before. Do you think the year matters? + +Thanks, Jim","boscoe said: + + + + An FT9.9EXK used a 6G8-45301-01-00 carburetor. That carburetor has been replaced by a -09-00 that is available. + +http://www.boats.net/parts/search/parts.html?client=multipart&SKUs=6G8-14301-09-00+ + +Click to expand... + +Good find - I didn't see that before. Do you think the year matters? + +Thanks, Jim","The best way to deal with a 19 year old boat electrical problems is to start from scratch, new over old doesn't work, otherwise you will be dealing with electrical issues for the rest your ownership, not difficult to do, I have done three (mine, and two friends) some teen years ago and not a problem, your rocker switches should be fix to a removable dash make the wiring outside then install as one unit, jump the + of all switches with 14g the use a single 10g to power it from the B+ block under the console, look up marine wiring code so you will have different color codes for every accessory, easy to find at the other end and easy to troubleshoot, you can make your harness out side and thread it as one." +"This is European motor with designation F9.9AM and 6G8 UL 702374 but doesn't seem to translate to U.S. model. Best I can figure it is basically model FT9.9EXK. I want to buy new carb but it is obsolete. So I am wondering if I can use the updated carb. My problems are that the automatic choke not working plus the screw for idle adjustment broken off carb body. I have adjusted the throttle control cable to get the idle correct for start up but choke not working. I am forced to start motor (motor converted to electric start) and wait for it to warm up before I can accelerate without stalling. Quite a pain! + +The difference I believe is only the automatic choke apparatus. They changed the carb in 1992. I have seen the new carb and all looks the same except the automatic choke and the throttle adjustment linkage which isn't a problem. The 1992 would fit on my motor. + +Here is my carb: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1985/FT9.9EXK/CARBURETOR/parts.html# + +Here is the 1992 carb: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Outboard/1992/T9.9EXHQ/CARBURETOR/parts.html +The new carb choke has a temperature sensor solenoid which wires to an engine temperature sensor. If my '85 has a sensor where this could be attached I don't know about it. Will this work? + +So I am hoping to hear from anyone who understand this better than me. (that probably means anyone!) + +Thanks.","Jimske said: + + + + Good find - I didn't see that before. Do you think the year matters? + +Thanks, Jim + +Click to expand... + +Hi and thanks again. I ordered the carb and it looks exactly like the old one. Haven't installed it yet. Will do this weekend. I can't figure out how the auto choke works on this carb or even IF it has an auto choke. Can anyone explain the choke on this carb to me. Thanks in advance. + +Jim","Jimske said: + + + + Good find - I didn't see that before. Do you think the year matters? + +Thanks, Jim + +Click to expand... + +Hi and thanks again. I ordered the carb and it looks exactly like the old one. Haven't installed it yet. Will do this weekend. I can't figure out how the auto choke works on this carb or even IF it has an auto choke. Can anyone explain the choke on this carb to me. Thanks in advance. + +Jim","Nope, on the roof sealer. Yep, on a Product called Coat-It. + +http://www.glazecoat.com/Coat it.htm" +trying to wire a five pin ignition switch for Yamaha 28hp outboard but no success,"The ignition switch relates to the control box, tiller handle or the switch panel that it fits. What is the application? + +You can got to yamahaoutboards.com and view the Yamaha parts catalog and see all of the switches that are used. + +Then, get what you need from a Yamaha dealer.","The ignition switch relates to the control box, tiller handle or the switch panel that it fits. What is the application? + +You can got to yamahaoutboards.com and view the Yamaha parts catalog and see all of the switches that are used. + +Then, get what you need from a Yamaha dealer.",hi the engine was replaced last year with the same engine that was in the boat the alternator was bought new same as previous alt wires were conneted but no rpm power light is on tec when you turn on egnition +trying to wire a five pin ignition switch for Yamaha 28hp outboard but no success,"Red is 12v +yellow is ignition +brown is start +white is stop +black is ground +green is tach +blue is gauge and lights for gauges","Red is 12v +yellow is ignition +brown is start +white is stop +black is ground +green is tach +blue is gauge and lights for gauges","welder18 said: + + + + Sorry no i'm not familiar with the parts name and not speaking in english but i try! + + +I remove the hose between the fuel pump and carburetor and fuel plash from it when i pump the primer. + +So the fuel go to the carburetor but not in the cylinder. + +When i shoot the gas directly in cylinder or intake it starts great but shut off fast. + +Spark plug + fire = Great + +Oil level = full + +Click to expand... + + +Ok, now I understand. Sounds like fuel is not getting to carbs while engine is running. Follow these steps: + +* Reconnect fuel pump hose to carbs. Dismount fuel pump. Have a friend prime the bulb as you look for a fuel leak behind the fuel pump. If it leaks, replace. If not, see below. +* Mount fuel pump. Start engine. Keep your hand around primer bulb, but do not squeeze. Take notice of the bulb and if it remains partially full or if it collapses. If it collapses, cut engine off. Re-prime bulb and start engine. This time, keep the primer bulb from collapsing by gently squeezing bulb. Don't let it collapse. Does engine continue to run? If so, replace fuel pump cause it's dead." +trying to wire a five pin ignition switch for Yamaha 28hp outboard but no success,"Sorry, I thought you were looking for a switch. In a Yamaha the switches are normally plug and play. But, if you are wiring one up from scratch then refer to the illustration below. + +There are five colors to be concerned with. + +Red is 12 volt positive battery power TO the switch +Black is the ground +Yellow is key ON power FROM the switch TO the motor when the key is in the start or ON position +White is the kill switch wire TO the motor that applies the ground to the CDI to stop the motor from running when the switch is in the OFF position +Brown is 12 volt positive power TO the starter motor when the key is in the START position","Sorry, I thought you were looking for a switch. In a Yamaha the switches are normally plug and play. But, if you are wiring one up from scratch then refer to the illustration below. + +There are five colors to be concerned with. + +Red is 12 volt positive battery power TO the switch +Black is the ground +Yellow is key ON power FROM the switch TO the motor when the key is in the start or ON position +White is the kill switch wire TO the motor that applies the ground to the CDI to stop the motor from running when the switch is in the OFF position +Brown is 12 volt positive power TO the starter motor when the key is in the START position","I would use a marine caulking compound meant for underwater fittings(thru-hulls).SIKKAFLEX, BOATLIFE, OR 3M(not 5200 as it is too permanent) Apply the sealant on the male threads and tighten as you would normally. This is what we use on threaded fittings that thread onto thru-hull fittings." +trying to wire a five pin ignition switch for Yamaha 28hp outboard but no success,can you tell me what letters get what wire connected thanks,can you tell me what letters get what wire connected thanks,"If the motor in question is a two stroke type, then the initial setting is 2 turns outward from being lightly seated. Plus or minus 3/4 turn." +"hi , im working on a 99 40 hp two stroke. model #C40TLRX. I rebuilt the carbs and found the slow jets were clogged. cleaned them and now it runs much better. i want to verify the sync and timing on the motor. my manual is very vague on the CDI INDICATOR setting. if you set the retard stop and the wot stop how does that affect the cdi indicator? as yall can probably tell I DONT UNDERSTAND. any help would be appreciated. oh yea i wanted to thank bosco for the enrichment system info . that i now understand thanks again........david",??????,??????,"Hey, PAL, + +Thought I would add a little chart showing battery charge state. + +State of Charge12 Volt batteryVolts per Cell +%chg Voltage on battery Voltage per cell +% chg_____Battery VDC__Cell VDC +100%_____12.7_________2.12 +90% _____12.5_________ 2.08 +80% _____12.42________ 2.07 +70%_____ 12.32________ 2.05 +60% _____12.2_________ 2.03 +50% _____12.06________ 2.01 +40% _____11.9_________ 1.98 +30% _____11.75________ 1.96 +20% _____11.58________ 1.93 +10%_____11.31________ 1.89 +00%_____10.5_________ 1.75 + +As you can see, 12 VDC output of a ""fully charged battery"" is low, actually less than 50% charged....... + +Sorry for multi posts. Power kicking out here ALOT during this blizzard in NY and I'm stupid....​" +"hi , im working on a 99 40 hp two stroke. model #C40TLRX. I rebuilt the carbs and found the slow jets were clogged. cleaned them and now it runs much better. i want to verify the sync and timing on the motor. my manual is very vague on the CDI INDICATOR setting. if you set the retard stop and the wot stop how does that affect the cdi indicator? as yall can probably tell I DONT UNDERSTAND. any help would be appreciated. oh yea i wanted to thank bosco for the enrichment system info . that i now understand thanks again........david",I reread the manual on the sync procedure. It mentions carb pickup when referring to timing marks ?? Could someone please walk me through the sync procedure on this motor ? Thanks .....david,I reread the manual on the sync procedure. It mentions carb pickup when referring to timing marks ?? Could someone please walk me through the sync procedure on this motor ? Thanks .....david,Check the oil in your lower unit. Could be contaminated with water and have a seized bearing etc. +can anyone help im looking for a replacement long shaft gearbox does anyone know what size of gearbox I can use 40 hp 50 hp or will a 60 hp gearbox fit from mariners kind regards,please help ta,please help ta,"Good advice here so far, and with a rotten transom to have no rot in the deck and stringers would be very rare, since they usually go first. If you're going deep enough to replace a transom, you need to remove the top cap and check the floor out well to. With the top cap off you can get to the transom from the inside without disturbing the outer skin of the boat. I've replaced several transoms over the years and have never had a rotten transom without rotten wood other places as well. As racerone said.....Do it right the first time. Some pictures of the project would help alot on detail repair help." +can anyone help im looking for a replacement long shaft gearbox does anyone know what size of gearbox I can use 40 hp 50 hp or will a 60 hp gearbox fit from mariners kind regards,Try the Mariner forum.,Try the Mariner forum.,Until you remove the bypass and inspect it for proper operation...........do not do anything else yet. You can test the other theory afterwards.