Split (1)

train · 100k rows

Subsets and Splits

No community queries yet

The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.

question stringlengths 26 34.7k	answers listlengths 2 38	date stringdate 2009-08-05 00:00:00 2023-03-05 00:00:00	source stringclasses 7 values	__index_level_0__ int64 82 9.91M
<p>When I've printed an object I've had to choose between high resolution and quick prints. What techniques or technologies can I use or deploy to speed up my high resolution prints?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 51, "author": "hroncok", "author_id": 53, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/53", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>You could experiment with slicing. For example, you might not need high resolution all over the object, but you can spe...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	82
<p>I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm concerned about the health risks that are associated with its operation. Some groups of scientists say it can be <a href="http://www.techworld.com/news/personal-tech/scientists-warn-of-3d-printing-health-effects-as-tech-hits-high-street-3460992/">harmful</a> for humans.</p> <p>What do I need to consider before buying a 3D printer if I care about my health? Are there any safe printers?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 9, "author": "Adam Davis", "author_id": 16, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16", "pm_score": 4, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Almost all 3D printers have issues that could cause health problems.</p>\n\n<p>FDM/FFF printers heat plastic to a te...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	83
<p>I know the minimum layer height will effect how detailed of an item you can print and the amount of time it takes to print something, but is it necessary to have an extremely low minimum layer height if you plan to print only larger objects?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 145, "author": "tbm0115", "author_id": 98, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>As with any manufacturing process, you'll need to learn to \"use the right tool for the job\". It depends on the requ...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	84
<p>Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly because it had a wide temperature range for its glass state - where it can be flowed with some force, but won't flow due only to gravity.</p> <p>Most metals have a very narrow, or non-existant, glass state. They transition from solid to liquid with almost no flowable-but-not-liquid state.</p> <p>Are there any metals or alloys that display a glass transition state?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 17, "author": "TextGeek", "author_id": 40, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I\"m no expert on this, but the article at <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous_metal\" rel=\"noreferrer...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	85
<p>What are the main differences when using ABS over PLA and vice versa?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 77, "author": "Kevin Morse", "author_id": 66, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/66", "pm_score": 6, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Paraphrasing <a href=\"http://www.protoparadigm.com/news-updates/the-difference-between-abs-and-pla-for-3d-printing...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	86
<p>My MakerBot printer supports only two filaments at the same time.</p> <p>What are techniques to print objects with more than two colors for one object?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 27, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>The most obvious solution is to pause the print and swap filament for another color.</p>\n\n<p>Another optio...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	87
<p>I'd like to print modifications for my bird feeder, both to patch over the hail damage from last summer and to try to deter the neighborhood squirrels. I have an FDM printer (and experience with nylon, ABS, and PLA, though don't restrict answers to those if there's something else that's better), what kind of filament would stand up best to daily exposure to sun, rain, snow, etc?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 18, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>PET(G) is a strong contender. It is very strong and water-resistant, and as such is often used to make pop ...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	88
<p>The surfaces of my printed parts using PLA plastic look rough and uneven.</p> <p>Would changing filament to a better one make any difference?</p> <p>If not, what kind of methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 21, "author": "dvdmn", "author_id": 44, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/44", "pm_score": -1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>It is called <strong>Acetone Finishing</strong></p>\n\n<p>Basically the 3D printed part stays in acetone vapor and the ...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	89
<p>With an ABS or PLA extrusion 3D printer, are there any potentially negative quality differences that could occur if I try to print at a higher resolution?</p> <p>I am not concerned about print time as the equipment is not under high demand. I am, however, worried the device may be more prone to fracture, likely to have defects, or have other issues I cannot currently imagine.</p>	[ { "answer_id": 63, "author": "Adam Davis", "author_id": 16, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16", "pm_score": 5, "selected": true, "text": "<p>The biggest effect I've see on resolution is due to plastic stress due to thermal gradients.</p>\n\n<p>The higher re...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	90
<p>I would like to print parts (e.g. jewellery) for use which I don't want to look or feel like a plastic, but metal-like, so briefly people won't see much difference.</p> <p>Are there any specific type of home-printers that can achieve that? Or it's rather kind of filament that you should use?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 47, "author": "hroncok", "author_id": 53, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/53", "pm_score": 5, "selected": true, "text": "<p>If you'd like to print on RepRap like <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling\" rel=\"nofollo...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	91
<p>I am aware of several "clear" filaments for a ABS or PLA printer. They, however, have a cloudy or frosted glass appearance. I do not believe this is possible to eliminate but I believe it can be reduced.</p> <p>Are there effective ways to make a print have a more transparent appearance?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 23, "author": "Dani Epstein", "author_id": 46, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Use Taulman t-glase and after a light sanding with really fine paper (optional really, but go for it if you can),...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	92
<p>My printed parts consist rafts, supports and other extraneous filament when printing with ABS or PLA.</p> <p>What are efficient general techniques of removing them?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 62, "author": "the third dimension", "author_id": 10, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>The best way to get rid of them is to change the design of the printed object to make them unnecessary.</p>...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	93
<p>I would like to understand the differences between rafts, skirts and brims. They appear in the software which I'm using to edit my 3D objects.</p> <p>Can anybody elaborate what are these and what are the main differences between them?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 55, "author": "nanofarad", "author_id": 62, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/62", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>All three of these features are used to improve the quality and success rate of prints, especially those failing due...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	94
<p>I've acquired all the parts to build a Reprap Prusa i3 rework, the only missing part is the frame. </p> <p>I'm in doubt between a MDF cut (cheaper) or acrylic (more expensive), of course a cheaper one is my preferred option until I see any disadvantage on making it of wood. </p> <p>I thought about variables like heat and humidity and the possibility of expansion/contraction of the frame, is this a valid concern? Will I have more precision buying the acrylic one or is it irrelevant?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 26, "author": "Dani Epstein", "author_id": 46, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/46", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Generally speaking, MDF will weather OK. In areas of high humidity you might experience warpage, but you can mitig...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	95
<p>There is a 3D desktop printer <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_project">RepRap</a> which can print most of its own components.</p> <p>Assuming each printed printer will print the next one and so on. Are there any limitation how many times this can be achieved?</p> <p>For example somebody printed for me printer and I do the same for my friends and they do the same for theirs. Can this go forever (since 3D model stays the same), or there are any serious side-effects/disadvantages of doing that continuously?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 37, "author": "Matt Clark", "author_id": 47, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>As long as you maintain each printer and keep a proper calibration, go for it, this is what they were designed to d...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	96
<p>On a number of occasions I've broken small plastic parts that are nearly impossible to replace but could easily be 3-D printed. The latest such mishap is the volume knob on the factory-installed radio on my car. </p> <p>I have little experience in 3D printing, and would like to be able to replace these parts with something very close to the original. Spending hours measuring and designing a replacement part that should be $5 isn't really an option. I need something to scan the broken pieces in 3D and somehow just seal up the seam where it's broken.</p> <p>Is there a scanning/printing/software system to do this that doesn't require a lot of 3D design experience?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 41, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 4, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The easiest way is as you currently do: model the pieces by hand, using (digital) calipers to measure them....	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	97
<p>I have a few kg of 3 mm filament when I only have use for 1.75 mm.</p> <p>How can I make 1.75 mm from 3 mm filament?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 42, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The best option is to find somebody in need of 3 mm filament and trade them for it (either in exchange...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	98
<p>I am printing a print using PLA on a Prusa i3 printer and an MK8 extruder, at 210 degrees celsius, 60 mm/sec, sliced with slic3r. The print consists of a base, with 4 tower-like projections that then join with a near-vertical overhang slope that isn't posing a problem for my printer.</p> <p>However, even before the overhang begins, I am getting large amounts of strings as the extruder head jumps between the four towers in the print, leading to a "spiderweb" effect between them. How can I deal with these strings, and are they a warning that there might be something amiss with my printer, or possible other failures in other parts of the print?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 52, "author": "nanofarad", "author_id": 62, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/62", "pm_score": 5, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Stringing is often a result of too-high a temperature, or insufficient retraction. When there is highly liquid filame...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	99
<p>I want to print a model of an animal cell.</p> <p>What I have so far: I managed to use different colors to print out the different parts of the cell.<br> My question is: what is the best way to connect plastic 3d printed parts?<br> Glue? Melted plastic? I need it to have a strong connection and not very visible when used well, and preferable dries fast.</p>	[ { "answer_id": 56, "author": "hroncok", "author_id": 53, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/53", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>For ABS print, I recommend <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone\" rel=\"nofollow\">acetone</a>. It is not a...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	100
<p>Is it possible to re-use ABS or PLA filament material from printed parts?</p> <p>If so, what is the techniques to reform it?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 67, "author": "Kevin Morse", "author_id": 66, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/66", "pm_score": 6, "selected": true, "text": "<p>There are a few options.</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>Machines are available which grind the used plastic into fine pieces, mel...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	101
<p>I print ABS on a LulzBot Taz 5 and frequently have issues with the corners of objects lifting off the bed.</p> <p>My extruder is at 230 °C and the bed is at 90 °C for the first layer and 100 °C for the rest of the layers.</p> <p>I have experimented with using ABS slurry (ABS + acetone) on the bed for increased adhesion, building a foam enclosure for the printer, and varying the fan speed. I have noticed the problem is more common the taller the parts are and the sharper the corner is.</p> <p>Adding ABS slurry helped for smaller parts (less than an inch tall) but with my more recent larger parts the adhesion to the bed was so good that the corners of the part lifting actually peeled the PEI tape off of the bed.</p> <p>I have tried using both a skirt and a brim with no change. The skirt stays on the bed, the brim gets pulled up with the corner.</p>	[ { "answer_id": 72, "author": "WalterV", "author_id": 78, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/78", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The solution I prefer to prevent ABS withdrawal is using <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/BlueTape\" rel=\"noreferrer\...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	102
<p>Taken from the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/60/47">answer provided by @EricJohnson</a>,</p> <p>When should I use a raft, and when should I use a brim? What advantages does each have over the other?</p> <p>Raft <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOghM.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOghM.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Brim <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MnlZ.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MnlZ.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>	[ { "answer_id": 68, "author": "Adam Davis", "author_id": 16, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>A raft helps when the part has few points of contact with the print bed, and doesn't therefore adhere well at point...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	103
<p>I made a test print for a small gear (~ 1.5 inches in diameter) a few months ago, with a hole through the center. On the first try, the filament (ABS) fused to the print bed, meaning that I had to spend ten minutes scraping off material to loosen it. One solution to this is to use painter's tape spread across the print bed.</p> <p>This yielded a good print during the next run. The problem with this method was that some of the tape subsequently fused to the backside of the gear; it was so tight that I had to discard the prototype. Multiple varieties of tape made no difference.</p> <p>Is there a way to continue using this tape without having it fuse to the filament?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 80, "author": "tbm0115", "author_id": 98, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>This can highly depend on the slicer you are using. Some software such as Makerware and Slic3r allow you to adjust the ...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	104
<p>Acetone can be used to smooth ABS prints. What safety precautions should be taken during its use?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 85, "author": "HDE 226868", "author_id": 61, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/61", "pm_score": 5, "selected": true, "text": "<p>There are a few main safety precautions you should consider.</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><strong><a href=\"http://sinkhacks.com...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	105
<p>I would like to print multiple parts continuously (non-interactively), so I can leave the printer alone for a longer time. So after finish, parts could be moved somehow out from the printing area, so the next can start.</p> <p>Are there any methods of achieving that with standard desktop printers without having to use multiple printers?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 146, "author": "tbm0115", "author_id": 98, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98", "pm_score": 5, "selected": true, "text": "<p>The only thing I can think of off hand is an old mod for the early MakerBot machines. It first was released for the Th...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	106
<p>For standard ABS and PLA filament, most distributors recommend storing the filament in an airtight bag. Does not doing this actually make print quality worse? I have left mine in the open for a year and have had no noticeable problems.</p>	[ { "answer_id": 87, "author": "HDE 226868", "author_id": 61, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/61", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p><strong>Humidity may be the problem.</strong></p>\n\n<p><a href=\"http://3dprint.com/68083/airtight-filament-delive...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	107
<p>I want to fabricate a sample holder and shadow masks to use in vacuum chambers. The type of printing material is not important to me PLA/ABS/PC-ABS/nylon).</p> <p>I'm worried that 3d printed objects (FDM) would degas under high vacuum. Is that an actual concern?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 183, "author": "Adam Davis", "author_id": 16, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16", "pm_score": 4, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Almost all of the FDM materials outgas even at normal atmospheric pressure, and, in fact, most plastics outgas. F...	2016/01/12	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	108
<p>I have a 3d printer that uses ABS filament. The software I use will generate vertical supports for my objects before printing that can be easily broken off after they have been used during print to hold sharp angles up that would normally fall.</p> <p>After breaking off the stints, the print is far from smooth. Is there a material that is best suited for "sanding" down prints without damaging the print?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 108, "author": "Kevin Morse", "author_id": 66, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/66", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I use normal wet/dry sandpaper and it works just fine. If I remember correctly, I usually start with 220 and then...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	109
<p>I'm going to 3D print a part that needs to meet certain strength requirements, due to its usages. I know how strong a particular plastic (eg. comrpessive/tensile/shear strength) is when dealt with in a solid chunk, but not when it is 3D printed. What is a good way to estimate the change?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 108, "author": "Kevin Morse", "author_id": 66, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/66", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I use normal wet/dry sandpaper and it works just fine. If I remember correctly, I usually start with 220 and then...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	110
<p>When you add a raft in Slic3r, the first layer of the raft prints at the first layer speed. After the raft is finished, the first layer of the print prints at the standard speed. How can I make the first layer of the actual print slow down to the first layer speed?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 139, "author": "kareem", "author_id": 157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/157", "pm_score": -1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You shouldn't need to. The purpose of a slower first layer is to help with need adhesion. With a raft the first lay...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	111
<p>Assuming you have a high quality printer with a fast processor, will you see a noticeable improvement by upgrading from 16X/32X microstepping drivers to 64X/128X microstepping drivers? (e.g. smoother surface finish). In what ways do they perform differently from the more common 16X or 32X stepper drivers. I'm thinking the RAPS128, Silencioso, and Trinamic drivers vs the DRV8825, A4988 and A4988.</p>	[ { "answer_id": 155, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Prints benefit from higher microstepping in two ways:</p>\n\n<p><strong>Noise level</strong></p>\n\n<p>Usi...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	112
<p>I've had my printer for almost a year now.</p> <p>Is there something I should be doing to maintain the motors?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 153, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>No, stepper motors do not require maintenance. They are a brushless kind of motor, so they do not have bru...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	113
<p>What materials which are <a href="http://www.shapeways.com/materials/">commonly used in 3D printing</a>, are food-safe?</p> <p>Are there any certifications/grading process for such materials, which can help me with my cross-checking and selection?</p> <hr> <p>I have been using an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling">FDM printer</a>.</p>	[ { "answer_id": 151, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 6, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Food safety is a property of both the process and the material. You can't stick food-safe material in a pri...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	114
<p>Suddenly, my printer has started producing prints that have a very pronounced layering. Normally, the alignment between layers is very good, and the prints look very smooth. Suddenly, the prints have become much worse and the layers are misaligned with respect to each other.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MgWVx.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MgWVx.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>The part on the left is my "normal" quality, while the part on the right show the deterioration. Here is another picture (in which the good part is on the right):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c1I5Q.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c1I5Q.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>The parts are both printed with 0.1mm layer height, and identical slicer settings/filament. I am printing on a custom-built FDM printer; the mechanism is roughly similar to that of an Ultimaker.</p>	[ { "answer_id": 180, "author": "Adam Davis", "author_id": 16, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There are many factors, here are a few things to check:</p>\n\n<p>I'd first suspect filament feeding. This type o...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	115
<p>I am working on a robotics project and need to print some gears. These will probably by under a LOT of pressure. Which material/filament should I choose so that the gears don't wear off easily?</p> <p>PS: Newbie here...</p> <p><strong>EDIT:</strong> According to my instuctor, it has to be some sort of plastic (not metal). It also has to be lightweight...</p>	[ { "answer_id": 154, "author": "Dawny33", "author_id": 163, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/163", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>So, as you say you want to materials for printing robotics parts. And as you have not given any budget constraint, I...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	116
<p>I am currently working on parts for a custom prosthesis.</p> <p>My main concern at the moment is to find biocompatible materials that can be 3D printed from a UP or a Reprap. The piece would need to be in contact with the skin for extended periods of time, probably around 17 hours a day on average.</p> <p>The main concerns I have are:</p> <ul> <li>Skin reactions caused by prolonged contact</li> <li>Skin reactions and bruising caused by friction</li> <li>Degradation of the materials due to prolonged exposure to skin secretions and sweat</li> <li>Risks of toxicity in the compounds generated by the aforementioned material degradation</li> </ul> <p><strong>Which materials can you recommend?</strong> </p> <p><strong>Any extensive data (from testing) would be greatly appreciated.</strong></p>	[ { "answer_id": 169, "author": "Adam Davis", "author_id": 16, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There are printers designed for medical use, and the manufacturers supply them with varying levels of <a href=\"ht...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	117
<p>I'm interested in finding online APIs where you could perform a call to some third party service with some print preparation request with my model (i.e. "heal a model" or "set up support") and get in return GCODE file I can send to a 3D printer. My input will be :</p> <ul> <li>The 3d model (obj, stl)</li> <li>My printer (makerbot, ultimaker, whatever) or a printer profile</li> <li>A printing profile</li> </ul> <p>This is opposed to all the classical 3D printing processes we have right now. Currently when printing in a 3D printer you would need to go through these phases:</p> <ol> <li>Create/Download a model</li> <li>Prepare the model for printing with some 3rd party desktop software</li> <li>Export the model as gcode</li> <li>Save the file to some flash drive</li> <li>Plug the flash drive into the printer</li> <li>Print the model with the printer interface</li> </ol> <p>I would like to know if this process can be simplified to a point where you can just print your model directly from your web browser without going through all these steps. I know I'm over simplifying things here, but I would still want to see if solutions like I suggested exist?</p> <p>Thanks</p>	[ { "answer_id": 169, "author": "Adam Davis", "author_id": 16, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There are printers designed for medical use, and the manufacturers supply them with varying levels of <a href=\"ht...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	118
<p>I would like to print edible cookies or ornamentation for a cake.</p> <p>Is printing with edible materials achievable by standard thermoplastic-like 3D desktop printer? Or you need to buy a special printer to do that?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 173, "author": "Daniel M.", "author_id": 156, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/156", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You can, but that doesn't mean it's very easy.</p>\n\n<p>You don't have to buy a special printer, but you need a ...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	119
<p>I would like to print fancy plastic cutlery sets or plastic glasses.</p> <p>Is it safe to do it? Or bad for your health, if so, why?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 192, "author": "Adam Davis", "author_id": 16, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Having performed a quick search through all the resources at the FDA Food Contact Substance resource, I cannot fin...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	120
<p>In my slicing software (Slic3r) some of the vertices/walls of my model seem to have disappeared, so that the inside of the model - which should be solid - is visible, while the surface appears as a thin shell.</p> <p>Why does this happen? Is it still safe to export the model for printing?</p>	[ { "answer_id": 190, "author": "kareem", "author_id": 157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/157", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Some STLs aren't exported properly from the CAD software.</p>\n\n<p>Use a repair tool or service like <a href=\"http...	2016/01/13	https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com	121