qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
5,942 | I am a complete noob when it comes to the 3d printing world. I just finished assembling my printer and I plug it into my computer with the included usb cable and nothing happens. My computer does recognize the printer being plugged in but it just says "unrecognized device in com 4". Nothing else past that. Somebody please help me with the following steps that need to be taken to get my CPU talking with my printer. | [
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"text": "Your question addresses (USB) computer connection, so that will be addressed in this answer. For connection to the pri... | 2018/05/08 | [
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5,951 | If I have to make an injection mold (for resin based raw material) using 3D printing, what raw material should I choose – PLA, ABS, HIPS etc. | [
{
"answer_id": 5958,
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"text": "P20 mold steel is one standard. Hardened parts are required for long life, depending on the service and mate... | 2018/05/10 | [
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5,952 | My main application for my 3D printer (Zortrax M200 Plus) is making 28 mm scale miniatures for role-playing games. Basically people and animals at 1:60 scale, which means that things like arms, legs, or weapons are only a few millimeters thick. If I use the automatically generated supports of the Z-Suite software, the supports end up being thicker than the model parts, and are impossible to remove.
I had a bit more luck creating support structures with Meshmixer, but am not totally happy with those. So I am looking for other software to edit .STL files to add supports automatically, preferably with an option to edit those support structures easily afterwards. Any ideas?
Note that Zortrax printers only work with proprietary Z-Suite software, so the software that adds the support also needs to be able to export the model with the supports into an STL file, not just gcode. | [
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"answer_id": 5956,
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"text": "I don't think you'll find automated software to create supports \"the way I want them to look.\" So...\n\nIt ... | 2018/05/10 | [
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5,954 | My print popped out from the bed and glued to the nozzle. As the printer was printing next hour or so, a lot of pla was extruded and formed on the nozzle.
I'm wondering what will be the best way to remove pla from the nozzle without overheating wires?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
a remark: was trying to heat the nozzle over 180, but I am getting a thermal runout. The pla is hard, I don't want to broke the throat.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jC20j.jpg) | [
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"text": "If you grab the blob with a pliers and twist, all or most of it may pop off. If not, heat the extruder up perh... | 2018/05/10 | [
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5,961 | I would love to re-use my failed prints by re-extruding the plastic to be used in the 3D printer once again. One thing that stands in my way is finding an effective way to shred the plastic into smaller bits for the extrude to use. What is a good thing to look for to accomplish this? Maybe a really big 'paper' shredder? | [
{
"answer_id": 5964,
"author": "profesor79",
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"text": "there is a project called `precious plastic` and there is a [plastic shredder](https://bazar.preciousplastic.com... | 2018/05/12 | [
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5,962 | Looking at the following code, from [Line 139](https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/2ce73937f3c57aac28a8d5f11a6ed9135a27cdca/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h#L139), [pins\_RAMPS.h](https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/2ce73937f3c57aac28a8d5f11a6ed9135a27cdca/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufVqI.png "Screenshot of code snippet")
Here is the actual code:
```
#if ENABLED(EXTRUDER_USE_E1)
#define E0_STEP_PIN 36
#define E0_DIR_PIN 34
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30
#ifndef E0_CS_PIN
#define E0_CS_PIN 44
#endif
#else
#define E0_STEP_PIN 26
#define E0_DIR_PIN 28
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 24
#ifndef E0_CS_PIN
#define E0_CS_PIN 42
#endif
#endif
#if DISABLED(X_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(Y_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(Z_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(EXTRUDER_USE_E1)
#define E1_STEP_PIN 36
#define E1_DIR_PIN 34
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30
#ifndef E1_CS_PIN
#define E1_CS_PIN 44
#endif
#endif
```
I've already tried everything that the online community tells me to do to solve this problem, but that all doesn't help me. Almost everyone is saying that I just have to swap these lines of code and it will work, but it's not working. Any ideas ?
By the way E0 is not working because I've burnt a pot on it :) | [
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"text": "At first it was unclear from where the snippet you posted is taken from as it was not stated in the question (*this h... | 2018/05/13 | [
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5,968 | So I recently installed a genuine E3D V6 (direct) on my AM8 (Anet a8 with upgraded frame). I have already been able to fix most of the print quality problems. But the last one is a hard one for me.
It prints super fine up until a certain height. Then the extruder starts slipping and starts making weird noises like its clogged but I will be able to push through filament properly after cancelling the print. I thought it was heat creep but when touching the spiral heat break it is just a tad warm. I can comfortably put my finger on it and keep it there.
I also tried two different brands of filament and it seems to happen roughly at the same spot.
I tried PID tuning (the temps are literally perfect and super straight with no fluctuations), I tried cleaning the extruder gear and checked if it was worn or anything. Then I tightened everything on the extruder, making sure everything was nice and snug.
I am not exactly a newbie when it comes to fixing my own printer and troubleshooting the problems but this one I have never seen or had before.
Do you guys have any tips for me to point me in the right direction?
Running Marlin 1.1.8. I have a BLTouch on it and an AnyCubic UltraBase. | [
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"text": "I have had some similar problems as you describe with my custom build CoreXY printer. I used an all-metal heat break ... | 2018/05/14 | [
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5,969 | I have not been able to print smooth and round shapes using Cura 3.3.1 (or earlier) without bumps. I think they are seams? The filament is PLA.
Combing is enabled, which I thought makes it so that the nozzle travels over already printed areas, instead of flying over the air...*right*?
I have been able to keep the seems hidden for the most part when there are sharp corners. *Sometimes* cura hides the seems properly...sometimes it doesn't.
Here is an example shape I have tried printing with several different settings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrinP.png)
The object above was printed using "random" seam corner preference. If I had chosen "sharpest corner", the bumps would all just stack up in one place, but still stick out.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NuTiI.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPmd3.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5T3w.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ygxYP.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvuy1.png)
Just look at the travel lines below! Why is it jumping all over the place?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/73rsT.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gu0TJ.png)
I have tried "Avoid printed parts when traveling" enabled and disabled, doesn't seem to make much difference.
I feel that there should be a configuration that results in the nozzle not jumping through the air like that, but I can't find it. Perhaps that's not related to the bumps?
The printer is a MonoPrice Mini Delta. | [
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"text": "Have you correctly calibrated your steps per mm a.k.a. esteps? Tom made a great video about it:\n\n[3D printing guides... | 2018/05/15 | [
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5,971 | I have a spool of translucent PLA filament that doesn't work well with the filament sensor on my Prosi i3 MK3. The translucency trips up the sensor, making it think the filament ran out. I thought I'd create a filament profile in Slic3r and disable the sensor in the "Start G-code" block that gets inserted at the beginning of the exported gcode file.
I've got the following code:
```
M900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}30{endif}; Filament gcode
M406 ; Disable filament sensor
M117 Filament sensor OFF
```
The first line is provided by Prosi's default PLA profile. The second line should disable the sensor, and the third line should print the "Filament sensor OFF" message. If I look in the gcode, it's there:
```
G92 E0.0
M221 S95
M900 K30; Filament gcode
M406 ; Disable filament sensor
M117 Filament sensor OFF
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
```
But if I print this gcode file, I see no message, and when checking the sensor in the "Tune" menu while printing, the sensor is still on.
I thought I might have a problem with line endings, but looking at the file in a hex editor, all the lines seem to end with a `0A` line feed character, including mine.
Why isn't my printer doing anything with the M406 and M117 messages? Full gcode file [here](https://pastebin.com/YDTN2Qes). | [
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"text": "Have you correctly calibrated your steps per mm a.k.a. esteps? Tom made a great video about it:\n\n[3D printing guides... | 2018/05/15 | [
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5,988 | I've just installed two TMC2208 drivers on my RAMPS board. I followed a very good step by step tutorial and after some issues, I got it nearly to work.
One problem I still have is that when I tell the printer to lift the Z axis by 5 mm, it lifts it by 10 cm.
I haven't changed anything regarding the steps/mm. Previously I had the Pololus, with 1/16 microstepping and now I also have 1/16 on configuration\_adv.h file on Marlin 1.1.8
However what I noticed when doing a `M122` is a line which reads:
```
msteps 256
```
which sounds like the microstepping was set at 1/256 instead.
Maybe somebody could tell me if I missed something?
**UPDATE:**
After some more digging into it, here is what I've done so far:
* Solder the pins on the driver. Original from Watterrot
* Solder the bridge pads for enabling UART communication
* Solder the pin for the communication heading upwards
* Change the `configuration_adv.h` on Marlin (1.1.8) and enable all that is to enable: USE\_TMC2208, Enable debugging, selecting the Z axis, etc
* Check the pins on `pins_RAMPS.h` and make sure they are available in my setting
* Make a Y cable with the 1 kOhm resistor for the TX pin
* Hook everything up
No matter what I did, the motor moves twice as much as requested. Although I set up 1/16 microstepping, the same I had with my Pololus, I performed the reverse calculation to find out that the actual microstepping on the driver is 1/8.
After more investigation, the issue seems to be that the driver is not recognized at all by the Marlin/Board. Thinking that it was a problem with the TX/RX communication, I dug into the available info out there and I found this, [Bug: TMC2208 UART Communication uses wrong pins for SoftwareSerial #9396](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9396).
I proceeded to change the assigned pins for serial RX/TX, but everything is exactly the same.
I tried a different Asquine (original), another RAMPS board and even the 1.1.x and 2.0 bugfix branches from Marlin.
It seems that the driver is on "legacy" mode and software manipulation is not possible. Although I went through the steps to enable it. | [
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"text": "I don't have these controllers, but I read that with default settings the TMC2208 will interpolate the microsteps set... | 2018/05/18 | [
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5,989 | I've made a 9H-printing model tonight, and only a little part of it failed (because a support dropped off). I want to reprint only that little part.
How can I do that in Cura? **How can I tell Cura to generate a gcode file so only that little part (inside the transparent cube below) will be printed?**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJflC.png)
I've placed the model upside-down on the Cura plate to "cut off" what was well printed. I've made a simple 3D cube model in Blender and placed it so it intersect with the part I want to print (I've set the "mesh type" of that cube to "don't support overlaps" for that). I've tried using "GechKz fixes: disable Union Overlapping Volumes" and the "Merge meshes" option, but the merge aligns the cube origin and the model origin (which I don't want).
What's the proper way to do such partial printing? | [
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"text": "The [most recent versions of Cura](https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/16274-where-is-the-split-part-function-in-cu... | 2018/05/19 | [
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5,996 | I noticed that one edge (which is also the starting point of the print) is always bigger than the other three. Additionally, the walls do not have the same thickness as well. The wall thickness (starting from the thick edge) starts very thin and gets thicker till reaching the thick edge again. Does anyone have a clue whats the issue?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oeept.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEvrT.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZmxi.jpg) | [
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"answer_id": 6002,
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"text": "As Fifcondo suggests, the problem is likely with your source file. One easy way to verify this is to slice tw... | 2018/05/20 | [
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5,997 | I'm trying to build a headrest for my Sayl office chair. For that, I'm designing a 3d-printed part that's going to fit on one of the existing rods of the chair.
Check out this picture:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMzGy.jpg)
How would you go about in getting the exact measurements of that white rod? I tried a caliper, and I'm able to get the width and depth, and I can just assume that the rod's profile is a perfect ellipse, which is probably a close estimate. But say that I want to get a more precise measurement. Is there any technique to do that? | [
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"text": "You could pull it apart and have it 3d scanned if you want to know the exact dimensions. There are companies that can... | 2018/05/20 | [
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6,016 | I've been having this problem with my delta 3D printer where my nozzle isn't moving flat with my print bed (as if the bed is bent) but I have used the edge of my steel ruler and it seems to be perfectly flat. I have properly leveled my bed with a piece of paper and have checked the whole printer to make sure it's square but the problem continues.
What else could be the problem?
### Addition info (from comments)
The gap grows and shrinks in a parabolic manner and it makes it impossible to get a good first layer. the printer is a FLsun Delta Kossel. The links don't appear to be loose. Is there a way I could share a video?
Upon further inspection I found a bit of play in one of the links, I tightened the bolt and the play is gone but it didn't fix the problem.
I have been playing around a bit and I found that the nozzle is closer to the bed in the center than it is near the edge.
I did some research and it's a calibration issue but I have no idea how to fix it. Does anyone know a quick and easy way to calibrate a Kossel Delta 3D printer? | [
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6,018 | I've just purchased an Alladinbox SkyCube 3D that I want to use to print board game miniatures and other fun stuff.
However, the instructions do not give the settings I need to put into software like Ultimaker Cura, and this is where I need some help so that I can generate the G-code files from models I download from MyMiniFactory.
I know it uses PLA and the extrusion temperature should be 210°C. However, I need help with the other settings.
Can someone please point me in the right direction? Is there a better software I could be using? Where can I find settings?
Thanks.
UPDATE: For those wondering "what" settings, I would probably start with the printer and extruder specifications. The following is my best guess.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXKEP.png "Machine settings - Printer")
and
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BVaF.png "Machine settings - Extruder1")
I'm basing these settings on the device specs on this page:
[Link to Alladinbox specs](https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_969800.html) | [
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"text": "Ultimaker Cura comes with pre-defined profiles for various materials. PLA filament is present in between them. This c... | 2018/05/24 | [
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6,022 | I want to print a structure that I can embed in a resin and later dissolve. I know that some fancy 3D printing systems have raft materials etc., that can be printed and later removed easily.
Can any one suggest a 3D printing material that can be dissolved in say water or another readily available solvent? | [
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"text": "ABS dissolves in acetone. Indeed actone can be used to clean up 3D prints, see [What's smoother? Acetone treate... | 2018/05/24 | [
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6,026 | Ok so I am trying to print a new fusion 360 file that I converted into an STL and then into gcode using cura and I got the gcode loaded onto the SD card and mounted into my Monoprice 3D printer, Maker Select 3D Printer v2, and tried to do a print. Now here is the strange part. When I choose "print file" and then select a gcode to print it takes me back to the main screen and from there the 3D printers screen displays "Printing...0%" for a few seconds. After this it just goes back to displaying "Stepper Disabled." And if it is not stepper disabled it is just a blank screen. I tried to mount and print multiple gcodes just to make sure that it was not the softwares fault and low and behold I was running into the same issue.
Now before using today all of the gcode was printing just fine, however for some reason today it decided to give me this issue. | [
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"text": "ABS dissolves in acetone. Indeed actone can be used to clean up 3D prints, see [What's smoother? Acetone treate... | 2018/05/25 | [
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6,035 | I am using 2 extruders. Is it possible to use them both at the same time.
Now I can use one at a time but not both at the same time.
Is there a gcode that supports this action? | [
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"text": "To print with 2 extruders simultaneously you need a firmware that supports that. Luckily, there is a firmware called ... | 2018/05/26 | [
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6,039 | I recently saw [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpvNEZCvk84) video of super-swellable polymer and felt inspired. Printing a swellable structure would be sort of interesting. However, sodium polyacrylate isn't a printable material. Does anyone know of a material that is? Preferably, swelling activated by water. | [
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"text": "To print with 2 extruders simultaneously you need a firmware that supports that. Luckily, there is a firmware called ... | 2018/05/26 | [
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6,041 | I have had problems with items sticking on the build plate, especially when they were big (as they didn't stick well, they corners warped -> all kind of problems).
I also wanted to upgrade my printer (Scratch XYCore-Bowden) to have the ability to use flexible filament so first I modified my extruder motor/cog-wheel so it pushes the filament straight into the Bowden tube (classic modification).
This worked okay for small parts (as was the case with PLA).
The heat-bed seems to flex when heating in an uniform manner so it's not perfectly flat which means the Marlin 3-point test doesn't work out.
To alleviate this I added a borosilicate glass on top of the heat bed for perfect 'flatness', but the inductive sensor didn't reach through those extra 3 mm of the glass, so I bought another inductive sensor (old was 4 mm LJ12A3-4-Z/BY PNP with a voltage divider, new is 8 mm NPN) and this started to function somehow:
As the sensor doesn't sense the surface (or the glass at all), but senses the heatbed under, which isn't either flat nor stable according to temperature, I added aluminium tape under the glass pane. This actually works perfectly well!
Now I am able to tune in the first layer distance really well, but still the flex filament floats around on the glass so I added blue painters tape which makes it work, very very well!
All well for flex printing!
Switched to PLA (which always worked okay whatever some small errors in print height, and not too wide items) and I have all pieces sticking to the bed in a manner **I just cant get them off...**
They get big scratches from the pincers, get broken, etc.,...
I have tried:
* Pincers (works for some items, doesn't work for some. About always makes marks);
* Ripping off the blue painter tape (the tape was removed everywhere except where the item was stuck. Plus now I have to add new tape);
* Cwukk the build plate in the freezer for an hour. It helps a lot but:
1. Still not easy to remove without making marks;
2. It's a serious hassle;
3. It's also a time waster.
**My question is:** How can you both reliably print and remove your item without breaking it?
Little image of the last part that I broke (the square impact in the middle is after ripping of the "hook" from this hanger when I tried to detach it from the heat bed), as it didn't work at all I had to put it in the freezer for an hour or so to be able to remove the rest:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbbjJ.jpg "Print damaged during removal") | [
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6,046 | I need to add some simple image renders of STL files to a document. I currently open the STL files in Preview or one of the slicers and grab a screen shot.
Is there an easier or automatic way to generate PNG images from STL files on a Mac? | [
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"text": "Typically you would install a (free) 3D model program as Fusion 360, FreeCAD, or many more options to choose from. On... | 2018/05/28 | [
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6,050 | I don't know how to say this but during the print, the printer will randomly have difficulty extruding the filament. I will have to give the filament a *boost* for it to keep going. Once I done the *boost*, the extruder keeps going perfectly fine for a while.
I am using a Prusa I3 clone bought second hand. I am using the settings that the previous owner gave me (I personally know him). He previously printed a lot of stuff with those settings and they seem to work well. I also bought the brand of same filament as he did for my first roll.
My question is:
**Has anyone had this problem or anything similar and if they did, how did they resolve it?**
If anymore precision or clarification is needed, please ask.
**EDIT**
When I say `boost` I mean that I have to push it down a bit more for it to countinue extruding.
I am using 3D branche filament (it's a local store in Montreal).
I do sometime hear it click before the print. When it does that. I stop the print and restart it. | [
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6,051 | If I set temperature say 220 °C, printer heats up to it and it only varies +/- 0.5 °C under non operating condition. But if I start a print, there's a shift of +/- 15 °C.
I've already auto tuned PID parameters and when I run `M503`, the printer shows the updated PID values.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8SCE.png)
What could be the reason?
Electronics details:
* Firmware used: Marlin
* Controller board: Printrboard rev D | [
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"text": "There could be a number of reasons for that behaviour:\n\nPlease check following items:\n\n1. part blower/fan co... | 2018/05/28 | [
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6,055 | In cura one of the options under "build plate adhesion" is "skirt", which seems to simply print a loop around, but not touching, my print. How is this supposed to help my prints stick to the bed? | [
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"text": "These skirts they don't contribute at all to help your product adhere better to the build plate other than priming yo... | 2018/05/29 | [
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6,067 | I have been having an issue with certain portions of the walls of certain prints becoming separated from the rest of the model. It happens with smooth vertical edges.
Specifically, this model, [ID Badge Holder](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2517008), on the edges where the lanyard would be attached. And on several places on this model, [Cat Necklace](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253220).
Here is the resulting issue:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VU11w.jpg "Detached print wall")
I am quite new to 3D printing, so I'm sure this is an easy fix, I just don't know about it yet.
I am printing with a Monoprice Select Mini V2, using Hatchbox PLA, and the default slicing settings inside Cura. I don't have problems with any of the D&D figures I've printed, or some of the other thicker square pieces I've printed. I know I've got kind of a bargain printer; if it's just a quality issue I have to learn to live with, no problem. But if an expert knows of some slicer settings to tweak for these kinds of prints with flat vertical walls, I'd love to give it a try. | [
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"text": "I have faced the same issue if it concerns just gaps between the walls (to the point you could put a nail in between t... | 2018/05/30 | [
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6,072 | I've got a Prusa i3 MK3. I have printed with PLA, PETG and tried HIPS. Haven't had any clogs with PLA and PETG, but with HIPS I've got a weird problem.
My first three test prints in HIPS went fine, but then I got a very bad clog (required total disassembly of the extruder) twice. And every time, it was at the same moment during a print. The object I was printing was a hollow cylinder. The walls were about 5 mm thick, getting thinner near the top edge. At the moment the walls started getting thinner, the problems started.
I've read that HIPS can clog if the filament moves too slow through the hotend. At the moment the clog occurred, the printer was printing a very narrow part, and the extruder had to move around a lot. Is it possible that, at that moment, the filament moves too slow and the problems starts? I have also printed two copies of the object in a single run, and then the problem didn't occur.
I hope my explanation makes sense, but here's what it comes down to: Does HIPS clog easily when the filament moves too slow, and if it does, what can I do to solve this? | [
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"text": "This has been sitting for a long time without an answer, so let me answer with an experience I've had with PETG rather ... | 2018/05/30 | [
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6,088 | I'm having an issue with my very first printer, a Monoprice Select Mini V2. After doing about 20 successful prints on it, the Z axis is suddenly acting very odd.
When I 'home' the Z axis and move the nozzle on the X and Y, I can do the paper test on all four corners of the bed without issue - the leveling is near-perfect. But when I start a print job, the nozzle is much lower - by at least 1-2 mm.
This causes the print head to grind against the print bed, which I unfortunately need to replace as it's pretty much destroyed. The nozzle is so much lower at the start of a print job than it is at the home position that it ground a permanent line on the bed. It's trying to go so low, there's enough pressure on the nozzle to not let any filament escape - leaving a bad gouge like I dragged a screwdriver across the print surface. Not good.
It's not the Z-axis limiter switch. I confirmed that is both working and secured tightly to the printer body. When homing the Z axis, I can hear the switch click and the printer stops at that position correctly. It's only when I start a print job that it ends up lower, almost as if it's ignoring the switch.
I also eliminated my slicer software from the equation by printing something I had printed successfully just a couple hours prior - without reslicing or modifying the GCODE file at all. I'm at the point now where I can't print anything that I could before, without having this problem. My heat and speed settings remained untouched.
How can I solve this? The issue popped up just after doing a successful print. What gives? I've heard of the opposite problem (Z-Axis 'too high'), especially after changing nozzles, but not 'too low', and I've never seen it where the print job actually starts lower than the true zero position. Help! | [
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"text": "Check the Z-drive for any component looseness. Look at belts, gears, anything with screws. Wiggle things merciless... | 2018/06/04 | [
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6,090 | We wanted to test the post process properties of PVA but did not want to print anything. We unloaded the ABS that was in the printer and then started loading some PVA. After the PVA was loaded we let it keep going through the loading process until it pushed all the PVA out and we had our test sample. We then stopped the loading process and started the loading process again to put the ABS back so we could continue with normal printing procedures. Now, the ABS will not load into the right side and started making a clicking/ticking noise. Our printer is a Flashforge Dreamer. What is wrong with my printer and how can I fix it? | [
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"text": "Run some cleaning filament through the extruder at the printing temperature of your PVA or ABS filament, whichever ... | 2018/06/04 | [
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6,096 | 2 days into a 5-day build, I came home from work and found the build ruined because the build plate had slipped.
I'm using a Raise 3D N2 Plus printer, with the standard glass build plate that comes with it, attached via 4 clips: two stationary ones at the back, and two standard binder clips at the front, which shipped with the printer, which hold the glass build plate plate to the heated surface beneath.
The left-side clip had come off of the heated surface, remaining clipped to the top and bottom of the glass plate, and the whole thing slipped an inch or so. I immediately canceled the build, and I can start another one, but before I do I'd like to know how this happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again.
What typically causes the plate clips to come free? Is there anything I can do about it? Will adding more clips around the edges help? I'd really prefer not to ruin more builds if I can help it... | [
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"text": "Your nozzle may have caught up with the print somehow pushing the binder clip off by moving the glass slate. \n\nAppar... | 2018/06/05 | [
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6,102 | Has anyone configured BLTouch with Marlin firmware?
I could only find videos about older firmware version. I followed [this document](https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/f5a1c8_77c6538efc934dbeab2f6e06e175ec35.pdf). To avoid causing any damage to the printer, I removed all connections, took the board out and connected a stepper to Z-axis terminal and BLTouch to Z-min and servo 1. All other axes are not connected. X-min and Y-min end stops were shorted using jumper (Mine is NC configuration).
After updating the firmware, I can move the X and Y steppers, but not Z stepper. There's a blue light glowing inside BLTouch, which turns off if I remove Servo connections.
The `M119` command shows all end stops are open.
Do I have to change pull up settings of end stop?
I cuurently have:
* Marlin 1.1.6
* BLTouch Classic
Here's my [configuration](https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hX5qZ3nnSY7cxfvX1J8z8wPrAGqynfKL) file
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIoLA.png) | [
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"text": "For security reasons, you cannot move Z until home position is applied to X, Y and Z.\n\nWith the level sensor at... | 2018/06/05 | [
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6,119 | I'm in the process of building my own head unit / stereo prototype for a car, which will have a 3D-printed enclosure.
My concern is that cars can get quite hot in the sun, and even more so if you live in hot climates. Some estimations put the interior of cars getting up to 50-60 °C, sometimes even in only 20 °C weather due to the 'greenhouse' effect created in the car. I live in a fairly temperate climate, but the summers can still get up to 20-29 °C (80-85 °F), and my car might get up to 60 °C/150 °F on a hot day.
The part won't be exposed *directly* to the sun, but will obviously be exposed to heat both from the interior of the car when in the sun, and potentially from the engine radiating heat through the firewall, though the latter factor will differ from car to car.
Should I be concerned using PLA for my part? If not, what material, if any, would be better suited for these possible temperatures (other than metal)? | [
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"text": "No, PLA cannot be used in cars standing in the sun. Temperatures can locally get over 50 °C (122 °F).\n\nI have printe... | 2018/06/07 | [
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6,130 | I changed the filament (PLA) in my Wanhao Duplicator I3+. I ended the first try to print when I saw that the 'lines' were too thin. I re-sliced with a higher temperature (195°C instead of 190°C). Now the print started without a problem but after about 25% no more filament came out of the extruder. What can be the reason and how can I resolve it?
The filament is from Vertex, grey. The object that I use to test is a 20 mm hollow cube from Thingiverse that I have used for the previous filament too.
I am not sure that this is a clogging problem since the print starts with no problems. It just stopped after 25%. When I started another print I was able to finish by increasing the temperature. | [
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"text": "My slicer (Cura-lulzbot) has a setting for initial printing temp, and then printing temp after the first few layers. ... | 2018/06/09 | [
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6,137 | I am the owner of a pretty Anycubic Mega I3 and it was very cool to own it.
However, now I have several problems when printing with it. It clicks all along, at high or low temperature, at 5 mm above the plate, and the result is very disgusting. It is the same with the basic black PLA, or with other PLA from ICE-Filaments but I can't do anything.
I use Cura and I've reset it several times, using the defaults options or not.
Here are two examples of some prints (normal cube):
[example 1](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/380420138920574986/455045425636835338/Snapchat-1209640225.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSqA2.jpg "First example of poorly printed cube")
and [Example 2](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/380420138920574986/455045425636835340/Snapchat-27434386.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hb1dJ.jpg "Second example of poorly printed cube") | [
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"text": "My slicer (Cura-lulzbot) has a setting for initial printing temp, and then printing temp after the first few layers. ... | 2018/06/09 | [
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6,149 | Just one quick question about the filament.
Can I leave the filament in the extruder for a prolonged period of time while the printer is off? | [
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"text": "Most filaments you can leave in the extruder indefinitely without any ill effects.\n\nThere are some filamen... | 2018/06/11 | [
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6,151 | I cannot get my extruder to work on my Creality Ender-4 printer. I have heated the nozzle but the extruder does not move.
I tested the motor and cable on another system and they work just fine.
Could it be the board or what could it be? | [
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"text": "Most filaments you can leave in the extruder indefinitely without any ill effects.\n\nThere are some filamen... | 2018/06/11 | [
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6,152 | So as the title said my heated bed stopped heating mid print.
I'm pretty confident the bed itself is not the problem as I've ran continuity tests from the wires and a resistance check (which showed a total resistance of about 1.5 ohms, which is where it should be). I've done voltage checks across the input terminals which showed a successful output of 12 V.
Finally I did a voltage test across the output terminal at D8 where the heated bed should be outputted to. The result came up with nearly 0 V. I then noticed that the LED that usually lights up for D8 was turned off. The weird thing is, I unplugged the wires from D8 and this time the LED lit up like it was supposed to. Due to this, I believe the problem to be with the MOSFET attached to D8.
My proposed solution would be to move the heated bed terminal to D9 instead of D8. I wish to this because despite the firmware set up for a fan, I do not have a fan attached to D9. This leaves this terminal open and with a potentially unharmed MOSFET. Despite this I have found no information on how to go about accomplishing this.
What do you guys think? Is that even a good idea or should the component (or board be replaced)? Any help would be greatly appreciated. | [
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"text": "you can swap pins in Marlin firmware.\nWhen you download it from GitHub, there is a file called [pins.h](https:/... | 2018/06/11 | [
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6,153 | Im planning on building an enclosure for my CR-10S and am debating whether to use MDF walls lined with an insulation foam that reduces noise and keeps the heat in or going with double pane glass walls.
My main concern is not necessarily keeping the enclosure hot as it is for noise reduction. Obviously the wood with insulation will give better sounds dampening, but I am wondering if anyone has tried both or at least heard a printer before and after with both and if the glass alone had a significant effect on the sounds reduction. | [
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"text": "you can swap pins in Marlin firmware.\nWhen you download it from GitHub, there is a file called [pins.h](https:/... | 2018/06/11 | [
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6,165 | If I'm working with standard PLA, and I want to print a box that I can stand on without any risk of it breaking, is there any good way to calculate the appropriate print settings?
I know that structural strength comes from the infill. Knowing this, and knowing the dimensions of the box, the weight of my body, the surface area of my shoes, and the material I'm working with, is there any good way to determine the minimum infill percentage I'd want to use in order to safely bear my weight? | [
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"text": "Strictly speaking, it is difficult to do calculations on these materials, but not impossible (I've heard about a few ... | 2018/06/13 | [
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6,172 | I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2. It is the kind where the moving plate (heat bed) provides the Y-axis and the moving extruder provides the X-axis. It has a fairly rigid sheet metal frame. In addition, I added steel rods has Z-braces.
I see some pretty obvious ghosting. This happens for an inch or so right after every sharp turn. Clearly, vibration is to be blamed. I found two simple techniques that improves the situation:
1. soft floor mats under the feet (allowing the machine to move freely)
2. bolt the machine to the desk (preventing the machine from moving)
Surprisingly, these two opposites provided exact same level of improvement for ghosting. My question is: *which approach is better*? Moreover, to further improvement, should I use...
* (extreme version of 1) hanging the printer from the ceiling using bungee cords (maximize the freedom to move); or...
* (extreme version of 2) bolt the printer to garage floor (0 freedom to move) ? | [
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"text": "Personally, I would select the 2nd option.\n\nThe forces and vibrations inside printer will propagate over every... | 2018/06/13 | [
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6,174 | Simple question: how do you reinsulate the MakerBot Smart Extruders?
Backstory:
I work at the library. We've recently replaced the MakerBot (extruder connection issues followed by software incompatibility) with a Prosi.
As a new hire, I'm obsessed with the 3D printers. I'm trying to make it my mission to get the MakerBot working again, just so we can have two printers running.
It takes quite the request chain to get materials in and I had some plumbing tape on hand, so I tried to wrap it with that, per [this thread](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1247/efficient-and-easy-way-to-thermally-insulate-the-heat-block-of-the-hotend). It's not going too well because of the housing around the Smart Extruder, which I cannot figure out to remove (easily and/or without voiding the warranty and taking it completely apart).
I imagine even with the cotton + Kapton tape, you'd need better access to the hotend than the housing allows.
Any help is appreciated! | [
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"text": "Strictly speaking, you do not require the insulation to be there. It is supposed to keep some of the heat contained i... | 2018/06/13 | [
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6,179 | I have got a problem that after upgrading my printer to an aluminum frame my extruder went from around 400 steps per mm at 16 micro steps (which did match the manufacturer's recommendation perfectly) to a bit over 1000 steps per mm at 16 micro steps.
This is a problem for me, since the limited amount of steps per second lower my maximum retraction speed.
What I tried since the rebuild:
1. Replace and adjust the current of the stepper driver - no change, even with another type of driver on different micro steps, of course with other values, but also about 2.5 times too high;
2. Connecting another motor with another cable - the other motor with nothing attached to it drove the same angle as my extruder stepper.
Could it be that the ATmega2560 on my MKS gen 1.4 board got damaged? Or did I change something in the firmware, which does have this effect?
I am using Marlin 1.8.5 and a E3D Titan 1:3 geared extruder and I am using the same setup as before! E3D claims to have 437 steps per mm on a 200 steps/revolution Nema 17 stepper and 16 micro steps. This value was working perfectly fine before.
### Update:
With an Arduino Nano I measured the amount of steps my board sends at 418.5 steps/mm (programmed in EEPROM and in firmware) on a specific amount of extrusion length
```
G92 E0 -> G1 F100 E30
```
and I got
```
5220 steps for 30mm extrusion (reproducible).
```
It should be
```
418.5 steps/mm*30mm = 12555 steps.
```
Where,
```
(12555/5220) * 418.5 steps/mm = 1007 steps/mm
```
to have the effect of 418.5 steps/mm
...which is, oddly, the exact number that I got by marking filament, extruding, measuring and calculating. | [
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6,186 | My Zortrax M200 has a skipping extruder motor, I’ve checked the seating of all connections and 3 different (electronic ribbon) cables and still can’t fix the issue. The gear is clean and have tried fresh filament.
* Does anyone have any possible thoughts on why this happens?
The extruded motor will move in the desired direction and then skip back.
Loading the filament is fine. Tried new nozzles, blockages checked, etc. | [
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"text": "1. Check the pins on the motor. Are they bent? If yes - straighten them out with a screw driver.\n2. This co... | 2018/06/17 | [
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6,188 | I have a question about Slic3r software.
I would like to subtract two parts. For example, I have an STL model, when I right click on the part, I can select **Settings...**, and in the **Settings** window, I can select modifier and I can select slab.with selecting proper thickness. Now we have two parts where one of them is inside of another. My problem is subtracting those two parts.
How can I subtract this part from another? | [
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6,204 | I have just assembled the Creality3D Ender-4 kit a couple of days ago.
I completed some rewiring and everything seems to be wired correctly, I'm able to auto-home successfully, but this is the problem I'm having:
I tried printing a [calibration cube](https://makerware.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865).
The first problem I noticed is that the printing is starting on one corner instead of the center as specified on the Printer Settings in CURA (check settings below).
Second problem is that I'm getting significant distortion. The movement of the printer seems to be fine, no jerks of weird sounds. I tried all I know but I honestly don't know how to proceed with this. I have a couple of hours of experience in 3D Printing so I'm completely lost.
This is the result I got (Model printed with Raft for adhesion):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qXkCz.png "Model printed with Raft for adhesion")
These are my CURA settings:
**Printer**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaqvA.png "CURA settings - Printer")
**Extruder**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SfRst.png "CURA settings - Extruder") | [
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6,221 | I finished the mount of my Anet A8, tested everything and apparently it was ok. I installed the driver that came with it, `CH341SER_MAC`, turned on the printer, connect USB cable, but nothing happened.
In Cura, I tried to add a printer many times and this message always appears
>
> The printer isn't connected.
>
>
>
In OSX, I discover in System Information, an **USB2.0-Serial**, that I think can be the printer. Is it a printer driver problem? Is it the Cura setting? I'm completely lost...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyfZ6.png "OSX System Information - USB") | [
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"text": "There are a lot of problems with the CH340 chipset drivers to be found on 3D SE and various forums on the internet. T... | 2018/06/24 | [
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6,233 | I purchased two DQ542MA drivers in order to run two NEMA 17 steppers. After about five days of use I noticed that the green indicator light had gone out on both drivers.
The DQ542MA driver running my NEMA 23 High Torque stepper was still running and it has been connected to that stepper for five months now. Using an Ohm meter to check I found that the [10amp 125v](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0451010MRL?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxU2g%2F1juGqdRmCQF0%252bT4VCAcmqQZMjh4%3D) LittleFuse connected to the power pins had blown on both drivers connected to the NEMA 17 steppers cutting off the power.
I decided to test the still working driver by disconnecting it from the NEMA 23 stepper and corresponding pins on the motherboard and connecting and resetting it to work with one of the NEMA 17 steppers. The minute I turned my printer back on, the still working stepper (now attached to the NEMA 17 stepper) immediately blew the same fuse. I don't understand why the NEMA 17 steppers blew the fuses of the drivers, seeing as how both are properly set to a RMS of 1.69 and a pulse/rev of 400, and both are connected to a 24v PSU.
**My question is:** "When I fix the drivers should I solder in a [15amp 125v](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0476015MRSN?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxU2g%2F1juGqTi%252bNtKN7qu4p8sgPytjpHvp9IQs9yJn3A%3D%3D) LittleFuse to better help the power flow and prevent any further blown fuses?" | [
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"text": "There are a lot of problems with the CH340 chipset drivers to be found on 3D SE and various forums on the internet. T... | 2018/06/25 | [
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6,238 | ***Note***: Before any negative flagging, we asked permission on Meta prior to posting & got a YES: **[Could this Printing Material Recommendation Question be or shaped to be valid on 3D SE?](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/281/could-this-printing-material-recommendation-question-be-or-shaped-to-be-valid-on/283#283)**
---
Which common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (with durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item?
**Item to replicate via 3D Printing:**
[Club Handle](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfX58.jpg) - 5/6 image album (a few images are attached below as well)
**Physics, Mechanics & Forces in play on object:**
Usage Intent is not to create an Impact or Hit but to **Flow in Circular motion** like this: [YouTube - 10 Best Indian Club Exercises](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIEOWh87ahY)
* Item with **PCO 28 PET Threading**
* 20 cm Length - Avg. 28 mm Diameter
Instead of me trying to figure out materials, I seek advice from experienced experts here.
Please advise and suggest on materials:
* Ideal top 3 materials recommended/ most suitable for this item?
* Other top 3 materials that are easier to get through "Entities" on 3dHubs?
* **Add Thought:** *Is "negative" printing is the way to go (Sculpting, lathe, threading, CNC types)?*
**Note:** The immediate answer people gave was to use **PP printing**, however I am looking for alternatives because PP printing is **not common or easy to find nearby** and **expensive**.
---
**Self Homework:**
So I looked through these **material guides** which show **different attributes** and **ratings** for various **parameters**:
* Print-ability
* Strength
* Stiffness
* Durability
* Price
For example, Polypropylene - [Simplify3D - Polypropylene](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/polypropylene/)
*Polypropylene is great for high-cycle, low strength applications due to its fatigue resistance, semi-flexible, and lightweight characteristics.*
**Entire Material Lists looked at:**
* [Simplify3D - Ultimate 3D Printing Materials Guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/)
* [Tinkercad - 3D Printing Materials Guide](https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/)
* [All3DP - 2018 3D Printing Materials Guide](https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-materials-guide-3d-printer-material/)
* [3DPrinting.com - 3D Printer Materials Guide](https://3dprinting.com/materials/)
* [Shapeways - Materials for every stage of any project](https://www.shapeways.com/materials)
---
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqbz5.jpg "Injection molded Polypropylene item - image 1")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6ZtT.jpg "Injection molded Polypropylene item - image 2") | [
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6,260 | I just re-ran all basic calibration steps from the Original Prusa i3 MK2 Manual.
Now, when doing the first layer calibration, lines that are running in positive X direction are ok, while those running in negative X direction are severely squished.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zzEl.jpg)
*(The "waviness" of my print bed is an artifact of the camera lens distortion of my smartphone)*
I already did Bed level correction, so each line is exactly the same width over its entire distance and tried to raise the live-adjust Z, but that leads to the thin lines not adhering at all. My printer is 100% stock, I modified nothing about it.
What can I do to troubleshoot this further? | [
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6,273 | When using Slic3r I noticed that `Slice now` and `Export G-Code` do different things. While `Slice now` is nice, it does not show any tool paths etc.
Is there an actual way to generate and visualize the G-code in Slic3r without saving the exported G-Code first? When aligning seams etc., it is quite annoying to always save the file to see a difference because `Slice now` seems to make little difference. | [
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"text": "After you use the Slice Now button (and the slicing progress bar shows completed), select the preview tab. To the ... | 2018/07/02 | [
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6,277 | My G29 command reports
```
+0.178 +0.281 +0.830
-0.614 -0.012 +0.371
-1.208 -0.849 -0.351
```
So should I tighten up the screw of the bed, close to 0,0 position or loosen it?
I have a feeling that when I loosen it, it gets away from zero and I expect the opposite to happen.
For bed leveling i use a capacitive probe and after playing around with the screws here is the result
```
+0.406 +0.127 +0.411
-0.161 -0.007 -0.041
-0.572 -0.652 -0.668
```
Finally the leveling process was found [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko)
But the question remains. The value `-0.572` corresponds close to `0,0` ? | [
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6,279 | I just received an old 3D printer from one of my school teachers. I have no idea whatsoever as to which brand it is, no instruction manual attached to it, or any other info about it.
How can I find some information about it?
Some links would be very useful. Remember when giving advice that I know nothing about 3D printers.
This is the printer:
*Backside*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GC3mb.jpg "Printer as seen from the back")
*Front*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmDtw.jpg "Printer as seen from the front")
*The X-axis stepper*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXuiX.jpg "The X-axis stepper")
*The electronics board*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTJwl.jpg "The electronics board") | [
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6,281 | I have an Anet A8, and recently updated the firmware to Marlin 1.1.8.
My only change was replacing the configuration files by the Anet A8 sample files built in with the firmware zip file.
Everything works fine but, sometimes, right after finishing a printing (while doing the "home all"), the LCD shows some weird data, like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H1Vn.jpg "LCD weird data")
The same happens when push the "confirm", after the mesh bed leveling.
I'd like to know why it happens. Is it a Marlin bug? | [
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6,291 | A little backstory to help you understand the situation. I put the 3D printer together and turned it on and everything seemed fine until I started printing. It didn't even get the first layer down when the screen reset and so did the print. I didn't think anything of it, I just went back and tried again, but this time right when I pressed start, the fuse blew.
I have done some research on the issue and haven't had any luck besides recommendations for putting in a secondary fuse before the power supply (which I will be doing in the near future). As for now though, my plan is to just replace the power supply fuse if possible. I went to the hardware store and picked up a Bussmann T5AL/250V fuse (photo attached below) and before I put it in, I just want to make sure this is the correct fuse and I'm not going to kill the entire printer this time.
*Picture showing the internals of the power supply unit:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYGTI.jpg "PSU, cover removed showing fuse")
*Picture of the fuse I bought:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QU6dU.jpg "Picture of the fuse I bought")
Any and all help is very much appreciated because as you might expect, I'm not too happy with the printer so far. | [
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6,293 | I have been using my Anet A2 for about a year. A few problems but none that I haven't been able to resolve. Today it suddenly stopped auto homing.
Using the position commands I can advance the X and Y positively but not negatively (after I manually re-position the carriages before turning the printer on). Also the Y stepper motor makes an unusual noise and it will over advance the Y axis. This behavior was preceded by a feed fault. The print started fine but the stepper motor stopped feeding shortly after the print started.
I am printing from an SD card as I always have. I changed SD cards thinking it might be a connection problem and I checked the G-code and all the commands including the E commands seem to be there. I have checked all the electrical connections - they seem to be fine.
Any suggestions to solve this? | [
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6,306 | I have an incoming project and the only 3D printer available to me is the TronXY X1.
So the question is: Can it handle at least four days of continuous load or should I search for an alternate solution?
*I don't want to damage (my only) 3D printer for this project.* | [
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6,315 | I came across several issues which seem to have been lowered.
Firstly, I changed from a 0.4 to a 0.5 mm nozzle. Because of the backpressure I was not able to print my PETG (Colorfabb XT filament) below 270°C which caused unresolvable oozing. After that I was able to extrude till 230°C.
The left print below shows the result. I disassembled the hotend, there was no leak or whatsoever. Maybe it was too cold for printing. However, the temperature displayed was 250°C. Then I replaced the cheap aluminum heat block with a copper alloy based one. After that my PIDs did not work anymore. I had to greatly enhance the d-term, otherwise there was a big overshoot. Guess there was a serious heat conducting issue with the old BQ hotend.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxd43.jpg "Prints using BQ Alu Heatblock (left) and Copper alloy heatblock (right)")
Anyway, from there it became better. However, I noticed that I still have severe underextrusion after travel moves (second piece, first picture, first piece, second picture). I use Cura, so I activated retraction with the feature to prime after travel moves. I got the wall closed just after 0.35 mm³.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oj1Ey.jpg "Prints using Copper alloy Heatblock (left)")
My Question: Is this underextrusion after travel moves normal for PETG/XT? I did not discover such behavior with PLA or ABS in the past.
Current Site Advice: Despite the weight, copper heat blocks seem to be worth the upgrade. | [
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6,321 | I have a Bowden extruder in my printer setup. Everything works great except this effect which must be related with retraction and is generated on Z layer change:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vasJH.jpg "Print layer effect")
The model itself, is printed in one layer perimeter / outline shell, with 0.25 mm layer height with the following settings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/D66PI.png "Printer settings") | [
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"text": "What you see on the outer surface is called \"[zits and blobs](https://www.simplify3d.com/preventing-blobs-on-3d-print... | 2018/07/08 | [
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6,326 | Why does this happen (circled in red), and how can I fix it? It is making my prints come out horrible.
Not shown in the picture, but the option "Coasting" was Enabled:
* Coasting Volume 0.064 mm3
* Minimum Volume Before Coasting: 0.8
* Coasting Speed 90%
---
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4sB6.jpg "Rendered G-code view of a sliced model") | [
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"text": "I have had a similar thing happen when slicing a large piece that has - in real life - walls of about 2 cm. By scalin... | 2018/07/08 | [
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6,329 | My first printer is Delta style Kossel clone and I have bad luck with Print In Place (PIP) models, especially with hinges. I suspect that my printer just can't achieve low enough tolerances to make the hinges work.
Are there any tricks I can employ to get better prints for PIP models? | [
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"text": "Delta printers are considered to be able to be accurate printers cause of the limited weight in the head (using Bowden... | 2018/07/08 | [
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6,331 | Waiting for a heatbed to get up to 85˚C for a relatively small part got me wondering why beds aren't hardware/G-code configurable for what area is heated? I'm sure it would be an increase in parts costs and electronics, but it seems that being able to just heat an area a little larger than the part(s) being built would save in time and energy use. | [
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"text": "I've wondered that myself a while ago and fact is that such beds or silicone heating pads do [exist](http://www.formbo... | 2018/07/08 | [
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6,336 | I am slicing with Cura and Slic3r and one important thing that I recently took my attention is that cura positions head in start point of the new layer and then lifts the nozzle. That caused my few printouts to fall as they collided with the nozzle.
Slic3r behavior is different: it raises the nozzle in last printed point and then moves to a new layer starting point (which for me is more obvious)
**Is there a way to instruct Cura to lift nozzle before it goes to the starting point of a new layer?** excluding Z-hops. | [
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"text": "To lift the head to prevent the nozzle to tip over your print you could use an option called `Z hop` in Cura. Just en... | 2018/07/09 | [
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6,338 | A member of our hackspace wants to get their 8- and 11- year old kids1 excited about 3D-printing and CNC cutting and makering in general. We have a weekly open training where people can design and print/CNC/laser an item of their choice like a dogboned box or a two-piece sword and hilt, or a name tag, or whatever. I need a few ideas prepared so we don't spend half our lesson on Thingiverse or in Fusion (more like a quarter)! I'm not a parent and my youngest friend is probably in their twenties.
What we have:
* a full bed 1200x1800 mm CNC (preferred, because it's loud and fast)
* Prusa mk3
* cheapo 80W 500x300 mm laser
* Fusion 360 based workflow, easy :)
* Arduinos and stuff
Ideas we've had: a minecraft creeper, done as a simple-ish box.
---
1: the (girls) are not interested in my normal kids' goto, which is: swords, shields. They are interested in: minecraft, dragons, horses. \_o\_/
edit: this is NOT an opinion-gathering post, though there may be more than one "correct" answer. We need specific applications of 3d printing for a young audience. This collection of answers will be useful to evangelize making to a whole new generation! | [
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6,342 | I am pondering about buying a Creality Ender-3, and I am honestly confused about some reviews. Some claim it is running 24 V, one did claim it was 12 V, most don't mention it. Since I know about some issues with the clamps, if I get myself an Ender-3, I want to replace the hotend with a proper one from day one. So knowing its voltage is needed to order the right parts. | [
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"text": "After checking the amazon listings of the ender-3, they contain more information than the gearbest listing: indeed it... | 2018/07/09 | [
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6,355 | Ok, I did it, I ordered myself an Ender-3, a genuine 24V e3D hotend, inductive sensor and some better tubing/clamps to cope with the problem the CR10/Ender line has occasionally.
But now I need to fix up my Cura for the machine coming in. The start is the CR10, and fixing the dimensions is easy.
But now comes the tricky part: Start and End G-code. For my TronXY I never bothered with changing it away from the "basic" settings that a "custom 3D printer" on Marlin gave, but this time I want to know what I type in there. The basic code, after I dragged out the G-code handbook from the RepRap wiki to add the missing comments is:
```
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 F200 E3 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
```
The [RepRap Wiki](https://reprap.org/wiki/Start_GCode_routines) suggests that there could be made so much more from this.
I would love to *swipe* the nozzle before starting to print, making sure that the curled up filament from this first extrusion doesn't get squished against the nozzle and make a bad first layer.
**How does an example (commented) G-code for swiping the nozzle look like?** | [
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"text": "What code we have so far\n------------------------\n\nThe code already made by Ultimaker Cura 3 (and then commented o... | 2018/07/10 | [
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6,358 | I am getting a 24 V based Ender 3. From the factory, it has an aluminium bed. So I also put this [LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4 mm](https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B071ZQ6VV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with 6-36 V operation current into the box together with a few other spare parts. Now, as I read up on these things something dawns on me: The normal input and output voltage of a simple switch is 5 V, as sensors are ran on 5 V on most boards (and in digital logics). The sensors run on 6 V plus though.
I do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24 V into the sensor input: What do I have to do (besides making a mount)? | [
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"text": "The inductive sensors work better when you apply a higher voltage than 5 V. Usually they are rated for 6-36 V, but ple... | 2018/07/10 | [
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6,375 | When I print large prints close to (but not exceeding) the maximum dimensions of the heated build platform on my Anet A8, the brim or skirt or the print itself is printed outside the heated bed, while there is some space left at the opposite sites. It appears as if the print is not in the center.
* Why is the print not centered on the bed?
*It was centered in the slicer before generating the G-code.*
* How can I center the print to make it fit on the heated build platform? | [
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"text": "When centered in the slicer correctly, without offsets defined in the slicer, the printer is most probably incorrectly... | 2018/07/11 | [
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6,377 | I'm printing parts for a HEVO ([HyperCube Evolution](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103) CoreXY), using Colorfabb XT filament. After several successful prints. I'm having a lot of failed prints. They start off pretty well but after ~15 layers the filament starts to string and blob.
Printer details
```
Model: RepRap i3
Extruder: E3D 1.75 all metal hotend.
Nozzle: .4
Print temp: 260°C (max. recommended).
```
Steps I took to troubleshoot
1. First I thought my nozzle was clogged. But it's not I can push the filament by hand without issues.
2. Lowered the speed to 35 mm/s.
3. Disabled retraction / disabled part cooling.
4. increased the max temp with 10 % to ensure the filament flow
Printed parts that fail:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wEjO.jpg "Top view printed part")
*Note: the two parts on the left are printed in one job*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jure.jpg "Side view printed part")
UPDATE 26/07
Dit a few more prints with PETG to eliminate the moisture problem. Same results.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6vj4.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GL1IF.jpg) | [
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"text": "This looks a lot like **under extrusion caused by heat creep**.\n\nHeat creep is when the nozzle temperature 'creep... | 2018/07/11 | [
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6,387 | I read something the other day about a guy who found a way to knock over completed prints with the printer head itself, then slide them to the edge of the build plate, where they fall into a box/basket. This allows printing several Eiffel Towers while you sleep for example. It doesn't work with skirts (duh), and the adhesion has to be just right not to wake up with a pile of spaghetti, but it still sounds useful.
Well, now I cannot re-find the description I read; does anyone know what this process is called? Is there an easy way I can perform such an end-of-print action on my CR-10 with a cura plugin? If such a thing takes a touch of end-time custom gcode, is there a proof of concept rough draft or demo I can start tinkering with? Any more info is helpful. | [
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"text": "You could cool down the heated bed (with e.g. `[M109][1] R28`) and cool down the hotend (with e.g. `[M190][1] R40`). ... | 2018/07/12 | [
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6,398 | I have built a 3D printer from parts. It is using a standard 12V power supply, an Arduino Mega 2560 replica and a RAMPS 1.4 board. The hotend cooling fan is connected to the 12V-AUX pin (the one right next to the x axis stepper driver) on the RAMPS board so that it continuously receives power as long as the machine is turned on. The printer is controlled by the Marlin firmware.
When I give power to the board, the cooling fan starts spinning with a lot of noise. It sounds like it is receiving a higher amount of current than it should. Moreover, the noise is not steady, but fluctuates slightly. After about 30 seconds, it gets slightly quieter; after about 40-50 seconds, there is a sudden break. From then on, the fan spins quietly and regularly.
According to measurements with a multimeter, the power supply is keeping a constant and correct voltage of slightly over 12V right from the beginning. Hence, I suspect the issue is somewhere on the RAMPS board.
I am worried about this being more than a problem of unpleasant noisiness. What could be the cause and is there more to worry about?
You can listen to a recording of the sound: [3D printer hotend cooling fan noise](https://soundcloud.com/user-769347820/3d-printer-hotend-cooling-fan-noise/s-OizCr)
Note that I am not talking about a fan for cooling the extruded plastic, but the one sitting on the extruder heatsink.
---
Shutting down the printer (even literally unplugging the power supply) and plugging it back in does not lead to the startup noise appearing again. Only when waiting for multiple minutes before reconnecting does it happen again.
The voltage to the fan is measured to be constant. The current, on the other hand, correlates with the sounds heard. It starts at 110 - 115 mA. When the fan is quiet, it is at about 90 mA. | [
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"text": "I propose examining the current voltage of the motor and the arm. The fluctuation of voltage causes the noise."
... | 2018/07/14 | [
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6,399 | I got myself the Ender 3. The Home position is about 1 mm left and 2 mm in front of the front left corner. Now, the hotend center axis is 11 mm from the carrier plate with the "Mk 10" cooler mounted right onto a pair of 5 mm pegs that are part of the plate. As I want to change to an e3D v6, which has a diameter of 22 mm, I will have to move out some distance (ca. 13 mm) to the current Z axis. This means, that any Y command will be off by this distance.
**How do I reconfigure the Home position to have an offset to the 0-positions gained from the limit switches?**
According to Repetier Host it runs on **Marlin 1.0**. Creality offers the firmware on [their website](https://www.creality3d.cn/download/firmware_c0001) as a **.hex** file - which is hard to edit. | [
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"text": "When homing the printer, the hot end carriage will be instructed to hit the (mechanical or optical) end stops. From t... | 2018/07/14 | [
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6,410 | I am wondering if this piece of G-code is valid:
```
G0 (Some comment (Its G0 command)) Y10 Z-5
```
I have tested this on my Chinese CNC machine and it strips out the comment and works flawlessly.
The machine processes this as `G0Y10Z-5` which seems like the correct approach to me.
I have however never seen such comment in real CNC practise.
It would be nice if anyone is able to test it out on their CNC/3D Printer.
Many G-code simulators on the internet fail to process such a line in their parser so it makes me confused. I haven't found anything about it on RepRap Wiki or even Google. | [
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"text": "This is not universally valid G-code, and how it is handled depends on the implementation. You can use this ... | 2018/07/16 | [
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6,413 | Scenario: I'm cruising [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/), and I find the awesomest thing. I NEED THIS IN MY LIFE. I download it, print it, and for whatever reason, it doesn't work quite right. OK, no big deal, I'll just download the source because the maker was so kind, modify it ever so slightly, and I will have the most awesomest thing evar!
Several hours later, I realized that I could have designed it from scratch in a software that is way more user friendly, deterministic, simpler, etc.
And then I **do** redesign it. From scratch. Maybe taking a measurement or two from the thing, or something related to the thing. And I refine it, and it turns out better than the original was.
Did I make a new thing? Did I only draw inspiration from the previous thing? Did I make a derivative work? Using Thingiverse's terminology, did I remix it?
I'm looking for some canonical guidelines to refer to for the US. Thingiverse can be an example, but god answers should not be limited to Thingiverse, nor my specific example.
I ran into this issue while trying to print out a case for a Raspberry Pi Zero. I'm not done redesigning it, but I've been wondering how I could share it on Thingiverse, and if any restrictions from the original model's licensing might affect me when I post my thing. | [
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"text": "When you remix, either by modifying the existing CAD files (STL or sCAD or whatever), or by rebuilding essent... | 2018/07/16 | [
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6,419 | I noticed that my version of Ultimaker Cura was out of date, so I tried to go to [their website](https://ultimaker.com) and download a new version. For whatever reason, I could not get the [download link](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/download-request/191) to work properly in Firefox with a slew of security extensions.
Where are reputable mirrors for Cura?
Download.Cnet.com and Sourceforge [came up as sources](https://duckduckgo.com/?q=download%20cura&t=ffsb&ia=web), but years ago they both [went to the darkside](http://insecure.org/news/download-com-fiasco.html) (SourceForge: [HowToGeek](https://www.howtogeek.com/218764/warning-don%E2%80%99t-download-software-from-sourceforge-if-you-can-help-it/), [thecomputerpeeps](https://thecomputerpeeps.com/2013/08/sourceforge-malware/)). I don't see anything else that looks even remotely reputable in the search results.
I did some analysis, and it appears that the drop down and form don't work correctly if you select "I don't want to share any personal information", leading me to think this is web page bug. | [
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"text": "Cura is a software tool developed by Ultimaker for 3D printers. There is a downloadable page for this too... | 2018/07/17 | [
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6,421 | Problem: Z-Axis doesn't work during a print. It attempts to work, maybe climbs on the Z-Axis, but screws back down. It whines, too. But, Z-Axis DOES work while not printing. It doesn't matter if the bed and nozzle heating or not, if it's not printing, it works as it should. I don't know what else I can do to troubleshoot this problem.
I have:
* Changed the Ramps 1.4 board twice
* Swapped drivers around, bought new drivers
* Swapped X-Axis and Z-Axis motor connections
* Cleaned threaded rod.
* Leveled two Z-Axis threaded rod riders to near atomic perfection.
* Changed firmware to each of the 3 latest updates
* Remounted motor so both face same cardinal direction
* Cursed
* Changed jumper configurations from 16th microstepper to 8th for more power. No dice. Fried two drivers that way.
* Dialed and redial and tridialed and quaddialed the driver pots
* Recalled the Z-motors work while not printing so it isn't the driver pots
* Cursed again
* Scoured the web for similar issues
* Looked for G-code that might limit Z-Axis elevation
* Died a little. Just a little
Hardware:
* RepRap Guru DIY Prusa i3 V2 3D Printer Kit
* Ramps 1.4
* A4988 Driver
* Firmware:
+ Marin 1.1.8,
- 1.1.7 (screen didn't function),
- 1.1.6 (screen didn't function),
+ RepRapGuru\_Marlin\_v4,
+ RepRapGuru\_Marlin\_v2
Additional information:
* My power supply is the original 12 V 360 W supply with the kit.
+ The 5 amp power in is 12.02 V, the 11 amp power port is 11.96 V and 12.18 V depending on which heater is on.
+ The bed measures 11.50 V and the hotend is 3.4 V
* While heating the bed and hotend I am using the LCD screen and rotary encoder to move my axes. It works as expected until printing. I have upgraded to an aluminum 12/24 V hotbed from the original PCB.
* Currently getting Repetier. Will update.
* The z-axis leadscrew is M5-0.8 mm | [
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6,427 | I made a few successful prints since I got my CR-10 two weeks ago and I didn't run into any major trouble. The printer is new.
Today I set it to "preheat" mode while I was preparing the SD card with the settings being 210°C for the nozzle and 60°C for the bed. When I wanted to start the print I noticed that the temperature showed as "actual temperature" on the printer's screen showed 233°C and it was going up steadily while the "requested" temperature was still 210°C.
Thiking it might be a mis-manipulation on my part I powered it down for a few minutes (I got scared by the high-temp) and then powered it back on. I then immediately requested the print to start. The CR-10 heated up to the proper value, started printing and kept heating the nozzle. I stopped it at 217°C.
I looked for an answer on the internet but all I could find is people having trouble with the nozzle not heating at all ... | [
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"text": "This is not an easy one to solve, the firmware of the printer should be keeping the printer at a certain temperature d... | 2018/07/19 | [
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6,438 | I am searching for 3D printing filaments, that are suitable for outdoor purposes, but printable on unheated beds.
I will mostly use it for sensor node enclosures (should withstand temperature up to 50°C/120°F) and car accessories (70°C/160°F).
If it requires annealing, it should have low shrinkage, since I will be printing parts that will fit into each other. | [
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"text": "This is not an easy one to solve, the firmware of the printer should be keeping the printer at a certain temperature d... | 2018/07/21 | [
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6,439 | Is hot glue suitable for FDM printing, or some process similar to it?
I think it has all of the required properties, and could produce a flexible transluscent print. It's cheap, hotends are cheap, and the technology has been around for a while.
I couldn't find any examples or anyone talking about such a material for use, on here or the general Internet. I wonder if there are tradeoffs or challenges that make it not worth pursuing. | [
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"text": "You could mount a hot glue gun to a 3D positioning frame, but you would immediately notice the following:\n\n* Ho... | 2018/07/21 | [
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6,443 | I own a DIY Hypercube Evolution equipped with Tevo Titan extruder, Clone Chimera hotend and Capricorn's High-temp PTFE tube. I use RAMPS with MigiOE and A4988's.
During prints, my extruder motor randomly clicks. I touched the filament and during the clicks I'ven't felt any problems with extrusion. I looked at the motor shaft to control if it clicks at special angles or randomly, but it clicks randomly. My prints do look very good: clear and shiny.
Do you have any suggestions? (the sound really gives me headache) | [
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6,447 | I'm trying to modify some parts on [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115095) thing. I'm kind of new to dealing with the modeling aspects of this.
I am attempting to widen the part essentially 3mm. This would involve modifying the chain segments, and the anchor points.
I have already attempted this with 3D Builder and the result was less than stellar. I split the part, cloned off about 3mm of the middle of the X-Chain (including the top & bottom bits). The intent was to break the part, translate one of the halves off 3mm, add back the 3mm into the gap.
When I put all the parts back together and merged them in 3D Builder, the resultant model, while visually on screen appeared to be one piece, the slicing proved otherwise.
Is there a way that I can do the above in FreeCAD? I'm learning this so tutorial links would be more than sufficient. But if there is someone who can explain this process to me in FreeCAD that would also be appreciated. | [
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6,451 | I am using a Flashforge Creator Dual Extrusion 3D Printer with RepG ([ReplicatorG](http://replicat.org/)), and tonight a print completely detached from the build plate.
I reset everything and watched it closely. It is a simple abs print at 230/110 degrees.
A few seconds after start of print, I noticed that the print bed temp had dropped to 109... and kept dropping.
This is new behavior. I haven't started to troubleshoot yet. I am looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot the issue.
**Edit 1:**
Tonight RepG would not connect to the printer. I reseated the USB cord
and now it does.
The test print is ABS at 230/110 from this open scad.
```
difference()
{
cylinder(d = 10, h = 2);
cylinder(d = 9, h = 2);
}
```
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2/Oscar
Once the print starts the print bed begins cooling. It is cooling before
any filament is laid down.
**Edit 2:**
Examination of the gcode shows the root cause. It does contain
```
M104 S230 T1 (set extruder temperature)
```
It does not contain a
```
M109 S110 (set build plate temperature)
```
When I manually add the M109 to the gcode file, the model prints normally, and the build plate temperature holds for the duration of the print.
The drop in temperature last week is due to the fact that I tend to preheat the printer before actually starting the print. Since there was no M109 the bed plate cooled to ambient temperature.
There isn't a hardware issue here. Most likely it is a Rep G configuration error of some sort.
**Edit 3:**
I resolved the issue by a fresh install of the latest Rep G. I rebuilt the profiles from scratch with G Code to set the correct bed temp. Thank you for your suggestions. | [
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6,462 | I have a new Tevo Tornado, which I have completed two good prints with, a 20x20 test cube from the supplied SD and the spool holder also from the SD. I say this to note that the printer was capable of producing a good print.
Print 3 was a design I created in Fusion and it printed badly, very disappointing holes missing. Stringing gaps between material just rubbish. I downloaded a simple print from Thingiverse just to see if it was my poor design skills or the printer and that came out just as poorly: lots of strings between details. Both of these were sliced in Cura. As that doesn't have a tornado driver, I downloaded one from the support group and the prints have not even started properly, see pictures for example.
I might be going down rabbit holes here but this is what I have found and tried:
* 1 relieved bed - done to ridiculous degree of accuracy, cold gross levelling then bed and nozzle at PLA working temp using feeler gauges. I have done 0.1 mm, 0.15 mm, 0.2 mm
Now I have added to the suspicion the z axis coupler see images below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KX2DWm.jpg "z axis flexible coupling#1")[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAWNmm.jpg "z axis flexible coupling#2")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/djWvKm.jpg "z axis flexible coupling#3")
YouTube videos, that I have seen, show couplers that are not a spring - any thoughts? I would certainly appreciate the time anyone has to impart their knowledge.
**EDIT 1**: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)
*The print bed is brand new from Tevo the unit has only done a few prints most aborted, and I also thought perhaps a residue from the feeler gauges had contaminated the bed, but I have cleaned it with alcohol wipes and also tried putting prints on to unused parts of the bed. You are right the g-code from the test print was from an unknown slicer, no doubt tuned by the manufacturer the part I designed in Fusion was sliced by cura. I have since tried the original test piece and it fouls the extruder nozzle almost straight away.*
*The main differences and there are not many between the set up parts, are that the Cura code does a G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-3.5 before starting layer 0 (both set z0,3). The test piece just does a G92 E0 G1 F7200 the feed rates are different the cura print sets M204 S500 and the test sample sets no acceleration. I assume there is a default in the Marlin firmware.. there is no doubt some globs of PLA stick like in dots between the strings, but the extrusion between direction changes do not kind of like join the dots where dots stick and joins don't.*
*I am going to change the coupler because, well, I don't know what else to do. Replacing it with a better one can't help. Other things I have thought about - PLA temps - I have gone up the whole range according to the manufacturers bandwidth in 5 degree increments no difference I have also done some bed changes but neither hotter nor colder (it's 30°C and humid at the moment, so maybe a materials property issue, but then again no difference in conditions between a successful first test and all the messes). I am storing the PLA in a gel bead box to reduce humidity. still basically stumped!*
**EDIT 2**: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)
*Thanks for your observation, it's a new bed and I clean down with alcohol wipes ( isopropyl) I don't think I have ever put a finger on the bed - very aware of that. While I don't know what I am talking about on the one hand I am semi convinced it is not the bed, anyway I am going to get a glass bed in part to deal with the protruding screw head issue.* | [
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6,470 | I specifically want to test
* calibration
* tolerances
* precision
* accuracy
I'm having trouble with Print in Place models and I'm trying to find out if there's something I can do to improve my print quality.
The printer I am using is a Kossel clone, specifically a FLSUN QQ and assume FDM printing. | [
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"text": "The best place to start looking is to go to [Thingiverse](http://www.thingiverse.com) and search on '[benchmar... | 2018/07/26 | [
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6,479 | I need to replace the lid of my water kettle and am searching for a filament, that is suitable for this purpose. The requirements are:
1. Stable at 100°C (212°F)
2. Resistant to steam/moisture
3. Food-safe
Has anyone experimented with this or similar purposes? | [
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"text": "There are few materials that go up to that temperature and beyond.\n\nA very nice generic overview is given by [Simpl... | 2018/07/27 | [
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6,489 | I'm very new to 3D printing, but so far I've been able to print a couple things off Thingiverse without issue. However, as I'm trying to print another part, I've run into a situation where Cura is totally confused as to what's touching the buildplate and what isn't:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/j56yL.png)
All I did was use the "mirror" feature to put it in a better orientation for printing....
Any ideas what's going on here? I'm using Cura 3.4 for Linux.
---
**Update:** I tried using the rotation tool instead as suggested by Oshac, but I get the same result:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4v0HG.png)
**Update 2:** Hmm so even when I just import the part without doing anything else, Cura is still confused:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jschr.png) | [
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6,495 | I had a Z probe installed but the wires came out of the header so I am trying to use software endstops, but any time I `G28` the nozzle will always ram into the bed. I am using Marlin Firmware. Which I am relatively new with. I'm used to having hardware endstops, but,
**I don't have a hardware endstop currently (no probe/no switch).**
* Is it possible to do this with software?
* I took out `G28`/`G29` in my G-code and it shows that it is going to z0.2 and working upward (but it still hits the bed). If the bed is level do I need a `G28`?
* Should Z probe offset be 0?
```
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
#endif
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.
// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.
#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE
#define PROBE_MANUALLY
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 1 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -55 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3.4
#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 0 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 3 // Z Clearance between probe points
// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#endif
``` | [
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6,511 | High performance polymers are becoming available for specific applications.
One of such materials is PEEK ([PolyEther Ether Ketone](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyether_ether_ketone)), a thermoplastic polymer in the polyaryletherketone (PAEK) family. PEEK competes with certain Aluminium alloys but is half the weight of Aluminium. For aerospace application this sounds very promising!
NASA has [shown](https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20170000214.pdf) that printing these types of polymers is feasible using low-cost, open source hardware.
**Does anybody know why the prices of PEEK are so high?**
Depending on the supplier/manufacturer you're looking at about 700 - 900 Euro per kg.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqNar.png) | [
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"text": "My assumptions about PEEK filament price are:\n\n* Raw material is more expensive. Compare price of [ABS](https://www.aliba... | 2018/07/31 | [
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6,522 | I´ve have read an article to change different pattern depending on amount of layers, but my question is if is possible to have different infill in the same part? For example:
* Base: has the infill of 25 % but the same base has some tabs for screws and mount the part for this area the infill need to be 40 % or greater.
* The walls and forms: this has the same of the whole part and can be filled at 25 % but some areas need to be filled at 15 % or less.
Probably someone has seen or reviewed another software to achieve this, or I'm fooling myself. | [
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"text": "This answer explains that you can have different infill within the same part. Firstly the implementation in **Ultimake... | 2018/08/01 | [
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6,524 | Following on from [What level of voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-level-of-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at/6521#comment9993_6521)
[DupeKx's answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-level-of-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at#answer-6521) states that both 12 V and 24 V can be used on the controller board. It also goes on to say that the controller board is used in both configurations in two different printers:
* Ender 3 and;
* CR-10
I would like to know how this dual voltage operation works:
* Does it use both voltages at the same time, or either one or the other?
* Are there two different electrical inlets or are they the same?
* Does it auto-detect or are there jumpers used to configure or are the components tolerant to both voltage levels?
Also related:
* What is the board used?
* Is the board a proprietary design or a standard third party board?
* Does anyone have any photos of the board and/or schematics? | [
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6,525 | We know from [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/183/11242), 3d printed materials continue to outgas after printing and being cured. My question relates to this:
* How much does heating the printed object after printing (or being cured) affect out-gassing?
* Does the continued out-gassing degrade the stability/quality of the print? | [
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"text": "The effect of temperature on outgas rates is a subject for Engineering.SE . As to continued outgassing - dep... | 2018/08/01 | [
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6,528 | I have been wondering about 3D metal printing (steel, aluminium), but after a short research on google I found only too expensive printers (markforged, desktop metal and a few other industrial ones). Is there any less expensive printer that is able to print metal parts on the market ? | [
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"text": "Anzalone and friends published [A Low-Cost Open-Source Metal 3-D Printer](https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/66785... | 2018/08/01 | [
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6,546 | I know very little about the history of 3D printing, except that SLA came first (in the 1980's?), and FDM development was probably held back by patents.
By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists, in the <€300 price range, as price-reduced clones of designs which had already seen several iterations.
Was this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines (as opposed to the >€2000 semi-professional lab budget prototyping class), or were the earlier iterations of these kit machines also suitable/adopted by hobbyists?
I realise that early popularity would grow exponentially, but I'm thinking particularly at what point people could build a printer without needing to compile their own firmware, solder any boards, etc. | [
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"text": "> \n> By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists [..]\n> \n> \n> Was this the start of ... | 2018/08/04 | [
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6,554 | I'm printing PLA with the Creality Ender 2 and my print comes out totally fine with the exception of the first layer.
Here's the weird part though, if I place a raft or a brim below/around the print - the raft or brim will print perfectly cleanly. Even on a raft though, the very first layer of the actual print comes out ugly, as seen in the photo below, but the raft itself will be perfectly printed.
Following that first ugly layer of the actual print, the rest of the print will be 100% clean. This happens consistently every time I print any object.
The perfectly printed raft can be seen on the right and the ugly first layer that printed on top of that raft can be seen on the left. Be sure to click the image to see the details of what I mean.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1Kem.jpg "Ugly first layer and raft") | [
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"text": "Sounds like you need to get the printing nozzle closer to the bed. In the case of the raft you can adjus... | 2018/08/05 | [
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6,557 | I've been seeing the 330 m and 110 m length estimates for 1.75 and 3.0 mm spools (of PLA, presumably). But a moment's thought staring at that will raise an obvious question.
Using πr², we get the area of the filament in square millimeters (rounding to two decimal points)
For 1.75 it's 2.41 mm²
For 3.00 it's 7.07 mm²
Then taking the ratio and multiplying:
(2.41/7.07) \* 330 m = 112 m which is close enough to 110 m.
BUT as all makers of filament and makers of extruders know, 3.00 mm is just a rounding off of the real dimension, which is 2.85 mm. Now do that:
For 2.85 it's 6.38 mm²
and:
(2.41/6.38) \* 330 m = 125 m which is at least 120 m.
So, whoever calculated the approximation of 110 m did the calculation based on the rounded rather than actual dimension. What am I missing here?
My point is not that the 330 and 110 would be inaccurate given the dimensions of 1.75 and 3.00. Rather, my point is that the 3.00 mm diameter is not what is really so; it's actually 2.85 mm and therefore the answer is longer than 110 m. | [
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"text": "Let's go about this scientific:\n\n$A\\_r=\\pi{r}^{2}=\\pi{\\frac{d}{2}}^{2}$\n\nAs a result the crossections are $A\... | 2018/08/05 | [
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6,558 | It would be helpful to me if I knew in advance how much the ***empty*** filament spool weighs.
Not having emptied any spool yet, I can't contribute data points, but has anyone compiled a list of empty weights from various manufacturers and sizes? | [
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"text": "Yes, there is a table on [Reddit - Empty spool weights for estimating remaining filament](https://www.reddit... | 2018/08/05 | [
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6,561 | I see plans for various spool holders, either for PLA in the open, or for whatever filament in a dry box, that use 608 bearings. Elsewhere, I see warnings not to oil your filament to make it go through the extruder better, because problems going through mean something else is wrong, and it's better to fix the other thing. So, if I use the 608's, will oil leak on the filament, and is this bad? | [
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"author": "fred_dot_u",
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"text": "Typically, oiling a filament would mean to use a vegetable based or non-petroleum type of lubricant, possibly even... | 2018/08/05 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6561",
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6,572 | I purchased a glass bed to use with my still-in-transit Ender 3. Since the bed came in before the printer, I pulled it out and used a flat edge ruler to see how flat the glass surface is.
It appears the glass is slightly "dished" in the center from one side and "raised" in the center on the other side. I am wondering if this is a sign of a defective glass, or if it is likely that the glass may change shape slightly as it is heated?
If it does change shape, should it be put with the dish side up or down?
Logic would say that if it does change shape, the bottom would probably get hotter since it is against the heater while the top is slightly cooler, so in theory the bottom may expand more "pulling" the center down?
I guess the bottom line is, should I send the glass back as defective or wait until the printer arrives and see what happens when I heat it up? | [
{
"answer_id": 6582,
"author": "Himanshu",
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"text": "Glass will not change its shape you can watch this interesting video: [YouTube - Fix Your Bowed Glass Build Surfa... | 2018/08/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6572",
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6,576 | Let's say I'm modeling a simple box with a lid. Just as an example, we'll say the **outer** edge along the top of the box is 50 mm x 50 mm. With 3D modeling software, it's easy to build a lid for this box to surround the top with an **inner** edge size of also exactly 50 mm x 50 mm ...but this seems like a bad idea. Surely I'll want some kind of of gap, to ensure an easy on/off. An *exact* fit seems like it's asking for trouble.
* How much gap do we leave for this kind of thing?
* Is it related to nozzle size?
* I suppose it also matters how tightly you want to fit, though I expect in cases where a tight fit matters some kind of snap or clip would be used.
* Are draft prints with larger layer sizes useful for figuring this, or do the rough layers make things seem tighter than they'll be in a final print? | [
{
"answer_id": 6578,
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"text": "***Short version:** basically, this depends on your printer, make, model, type, state of maintenance, extruder, slice... | 2018/08/07 | [
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6,586 | Recently, I have heard people talking about masterspool, when talking about 3D printing filament.
* What *exactly* is master spool?
* Where did the idea come from and when?
* Is it being widely adopted? Or to be specific, how many distributors/manufacturers have adopted this already, and is it gaining traction?
* Is this something that I should get excited by?
* If so, why is it such a good idea? | [
{
"answer_id": 6588,
"author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"author_id": 11242,
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"text": "A masterspool is the practice of printing your own spool out of filament, which will then be used to support you... | 2018/08/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6586",
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6,592 | Let's say you're printing a container or some other object with no infill. What's a good rule of thumb for how thick to make the outside? I'm looking for something along the lines of millimeters thick per square inch of area.
I'm thinking about PLA right now, but answers for ABS and other materials are welcome, too. | [
{
"answer_id": 6593,
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"text": "I make small objects (25mm^2) with 1 to 1.5 mm walls and larger objects (think coffee cups) with about 2.5 - 3 mm walls... | 2018/08/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6592",
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6,600 | I have a printer with a 0.1 mm typical layer thickness. Of course I can choose some different sizes in Cura or other slicing software, but most prints on this machine will be .1mm. In my (admittedly limited) experience thus far, the 0.1 mm seems typical for other printers, too.
I want to get a sense of just how thick this is. I know about the paper trick for leveling the print bed, but my understanding is the first layer pushes into the bed a little, meaning it's less than 0.1 mm and so paper isn't a good example for the typical layer.
Is there a similar item with close to 0.1 mm thickness I can use to visualize this? | [
{
"answer_id": 6601,
"author": "Davo",
"author_id": 4922,
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"text": "Sure. Get a 0.1mm thick feeler gauge. \n\n<http://duckduckgo.com/?q=feeler+gauge+.1mm>"
},
{
"answer_id": 6604... | 2018/08/08 | [
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