[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: 8 Port Switch Stopped Working

I have a Linksys CM3024 cable modem with XFinity internet. That goes into an Eero wireless router. Then out of the router into an 8 port switch to run all the wired components (my PCs, network printer, PlayStation 3 & 4, etc.)

This has worked for over a decade with a basic unmanaged D Link switch. One day it didn’t work anymore. I figured that the switch had more than lived it’s life so I bought a cheap TP-Link TL-SG1008D for like $25 and replaced the D Link. Everything was fine for 3 months and then last night it stopped working again.

I reset everything and tried a different ethernet cable, but it just wouldn’t work. I was annoyed that it only lasted 3 months but figured that the cheap switch just died too.

I bought a Netgear GS108 today and hooked everything up, but it still doesn’t work. So maybe the switch never was the issue? The port lights are coming on and blinking, but none of the devices are connecting.

Wireless works, and if I plug my computer ethernet cord directly into the Eero, it works too. So I’m getting service from the Eero port. But when I run it into the switch, it doesn't seem to be going anywhere after that. PCs, PlayStations, printer, nothing is connected to the Internet.

I am at a loss for what to even look at. Any advice would be appreciated. I thought that it must be a hardware problem with the switch if every component hooked into it stops working at once, but hooking up a new one and getting the same results seems to contradict that.

[Assistant]
So, a switch doesn't usually have an issue if you replace one but, the CM / Eero might. Did you reboot everything in line with the host <> internet?

Seems a bit odd that you've gone through 3 switches with the same issue but 3 different vendors.

Is the issue that replacing the switch you don't get an IP?

Can you configure 2 devices with static IP's w/o a gateway and can they see each other / move data between them?

Did you leave the VLAN configured as 1 (default)?

Did you do a hard reset if possible to purge any configuration information from the new switches?

If I power cycle the Netgear switch, it will give me an IP on my computer of 192.168.4.70, but when I try to use a browser I get a DNS error for every website. My DNS servers are showing as 75.75.75.75 and 75.75.76.76

I rebooted the cable modem, router, and switch when the TP-Link stopped working last night, but I only rebooted the router today when I installed the new Netgear switch. My wife is on a zoom call at the moment, so I don’t want to power cycle the CM right now, but I can try that later and perhaps get an easy fix. I figured that the cable modem was doing it‘s part since I had wireless and wired from the back of the Eero, but I’m clearly out of my depth.

I didn’t change any default configurations In regards to VLAN.

I have not set up two machines with static IP. I just googled how to set a static IP in windows 10, and tried to do so, but i got an error saying “can’t save IP settings. Check one or more setting and try again.”

I do not see a paper clip port on the switch for a hard reset. I did unplug it, but don’t see any other method on this unit.

I'd venture that the switch is not the source of your problems. Plain unmanaged ethernet switches like the GS108 have basically no user-visible state --- they know which MAC addresses are hanging off which of their ports, but the protocols for automatically updating that info when you change cabling arrangements are ancient and very reliable. I could believe an outright-faulty switch, but not if you tried two different ones with the same results. The switch is *certainly* not in charge of giving you an IP address; it only knows about MAC addresses, which are a lower protocol layer.

Likewise, I don't think the cable modem is the problem. It doesn't, or shouldn't, know what's behind the router.

Faulty Ethernet cables are a thing too, but you said you already tried swapping cables.

That leaves the Eero router. Have you updated its firmware or configuration lately?

People on these forums often recommend factory-resetting routers and setting their configuration up from scratch. That always strikes me as having more than a whiff of waving a dead chicken; but in the absence of any other ideas, it seems worth trying here.

Also, if you have any friends you can borrow a router from, swapping something else in for the Eero would be informative. I wouldn't recommend springing for a new router just yet, but that might be the end game here.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Solved Root Cause for 100 mbps

I was expecting 1000 mbps on my ethernet. Instead, I am at a stable 100 mbps on all 10 jacks (home set-up). Troubleshooting

1. will router give 1000 mbps? - yes (direct)
2. will lap-up execute 1000 mbps when direct connected to the router while the laptop is on battery? - yes
3. are all 4-pairs are lighting up when tested at wall jacks as being connected in correct order of 1, 2, 3 to 8? - yes
4. is the cable between router and jack labled as cat 5e? - yes. Does it look like 5e? - yes
5. I am using the same order of wiring at both ends - yes (568B)

I am concluding that the decrease to 100 mbps from 1000 mbps is caused between the router and the wall jacks. The connection is: ASUS router through cat5e cables to keystone connectors at each LAN plug. The length of the cabling is from 50 to up to 150 feet. But again, all 4-pairs light-up as being connected. That's what's driving me nuts.

Causes... ?

Keystone connectors? why?
Cable noise? why? The 100 mbps is stable...

I will appreciate forum expert ideas on: what are a few likely root causes for the speed to drop from 1000 to 100, when all 4-pairs indicate connectivity?

I have a beautiful (aka. stable, fast) MOCA ethernet on coax cable, which is working perfectly. But some rooms do not have cable jacks, but have ethernet jacks. I am interested in having the Cat set-up move to 1000 mbps.

[Assistant]
Try a cheap, unmanaged switch between your problem wall jacks and a client device. Incompatibilities are everywhere.

Thank you. Let me know if I understood your interesting idea: Would a unmanaged switch increase the likelihood that 1000 mpbs will be seen by a laptop connected to the unmanaged switch instead of the keystone jack?

To test, I do not yet have a unmanaged switch to use, but I tested three laptops, to determine if the ethernet card in any of the laptops was incompatible with the jacks. Same result: only 100 mbps. And the same laptops give 1000 mbps when direct connected to the router.

PuckHead said:
I was expecting 1000 mbps on my ethernet. Instead, I am at a stable 100 mbps on all 10 jacks (home set-up). Troubleshooting

1. will router give 1000 mbps? - yes (direct)
2. will lap-up execute 1000 mbps when direct connected to the router while the laptop is on battery? - yes
3. are all 4-pairs are lighting up when tested at wall jacks as being connected in correct order of 1, 2, 3 to 8? - yes
4. is the cable between router and jack labled as cat 5e? - yes. Does it look like 5e? - yes
5. I am using the same order of wiring at both ends - yes (568B)

I am concluding that the decrease to 100 mbps from 1000 mbps is caused between the router and the wall jacks. The connection is: ASUS router through cat5e cables to keystone connectors at each LAN plug. The length of the cabling is from 50 to up to 150 feet. But again, all 4-pairs light-up as being connected. That's what's driving me nuts.

Causes... ?

Keystone connectors? why?
Cable noise? why? The 100 mbps is stable...

I will appreciate forum expert ideas on: what are a few likely root causes for the speed to drop from 1000 to 100, when all 4-pairs indicate connectivity?

I have a beautiful (aka. stable, fast) MOCA ethernet on coax cable, which is working perfectly. But some rooms do not have cable jacks, but have ethernet jacks. I am interested in having the Cat set-up move to 1000 mbps.
Click to expand...

What is your type of UTP? Solid or Stranded? If it's a Stranded UTP the problem is cable cut. In this situation all lights are up but it doesn't work as 1gbps.
Otherwise you need to check your keystone jacks and rj45 termination(poor contact).


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Installing my own cable vs. paying Comcast to do it

Hi!
I have no idea about any of this cable talk but I am diving in and looking for help!

My husband and I are building a home in rural WA state and Comcast wants $66,660 (!!!!) for a 'cost share' to hook us up...

If someone can direct me to where I should post about the possibility of diy cable laying, that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Andrea

[Assistant]
balemama said:
Hi!
I have no idea about any of this cable talk but I am diving in and looking for help!

My husband and I are building a home in rural WA state and Comcast wants $66,660 (!!!!) for a 'cost share' to hook us up...

If someone can direct me to where I should post about the possibility of diy cable laying, that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Andrea
Click to expand...
It happens.
Ridiculous estimate from Comcast to run internet to the home?
We just got our C of O and called Comcast (the only high speed internet provider in the area) to get internet to our home (don't need TV/cable, just internet). They want $3700 to run a line from my neighbors home to our new home (about 400 feet). That seems ridiculously expensive to me. They...
www.houzz.com
DIY? I don't think so. Do you know the distance from your house to ISP(a nearest device or a pole)? The pole should have internet devices like repeater, booster something.

Might want to complain over here @ https://forums.xfinity.com/categories/internet/602d56f7e6b3965d18e3a58a and they have reps that keep tabs on the forums and should reach out to you about the costs. 66K seems a bit high but, it might come down or if you wait them out for the build out of the area it could be avoidable. In the meantime maybe look at T-Mobile FIA for $50/mo.

balemama said:
Hi!
I have no idea about any of this cable talk but I am diving in and looking for help!

My husband and I are building a home in rural WA state and Comcast wants $66,660 (!!!!) for a 'cost share' to hook us up...

If someone can direct me to where I should post about the possibility of diy cable laying, that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Andrea
Click to expand...

A Comcast technician has replied to your post.

Comcast Direct forum | DSLReports, ISP Information
Comcast Direct forum, broadband news, information and community
www.dslreports.com


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Network fails when connecting Asus AP to AIMesh Node

So this is how my network setup is:

If connect the Asus AC68U to the CD6 Mesh Node, then the network fails complete, both the Mesh Node and then AC68U.

Anybody that has a good idea why that is?

I have ordered some cables so I can try and bypass the unmanaged 24 port switch, then it would be:
AC86U->Zenwifi CD6 -> Asus AC68U

[Assistant]
Hmm ... why do you have two "routers" in this diagram? Where is the actual internet egress connection?

I kind of suspect you might be creating a circular forwarding loop that's breaking things, but it's hard to tell with no details about how the CD6's are configured. In any case, it's highly unlikely that the switch is the source of your problems.

The AC86U is the AI mesh router and internet comes in at the ac86u.

What extra details do you need about CD6, they are AI mesh nodes so not much to setup to be honest.

I don't have two router. The CD6's both function as a mesh nodes. My text are misleading I guess. The CD6 comes as a pair with a router node and slave node, however in my case both are just acting as AI mesh nodes to the ac86u.

So are you sure you have both CD6's set up as plain access points (APs)? I'm suspicious that your "the router one" CD6 is trying to, well, route, and in this situation it shouldn't. Everything except the primary AC86U should be acting as a plain AP.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Small business network equipment

Please help us identify the equipment in the photos. My best guess is it's 15-20 plus years old and obsolete. Work in a small office where we have issues with the multi-line phone system. Wiring, patch panel, or switching device my because of the problems. Want to understand what equipment is being used and if it's repairable or upgradable or if it would make more sense to change over to a cloud-based system with a per-seat cost that includes tech support and phones for our four-person team. I wasn't there when the system was set up, possibly in the 15th century.

DHS phone switcher, office phone network?

Local servers on the bottom left?

Unlabeled phone patch panel in middle.

Office Network · Oct 19 – 25, 2021 📸
Shared album · Tap to view!
photos.google.com

[Assistant]
Welcome to the forums @granton.

Have you tried using better pictures and then using google image search?

granton said:
Please help us identify the equipment in the photos. My best guess is it's 15-20 plus years old and obsolete. Work in a small office where we have issues with the multi-line phone system. Wiring, patch panel, or switching device my because of the problems. Want to understand what equipment is being used and if it's repairable or upgradable or if it would make more sense to change over to a cloud-based system with a per-seat cost that includes tech support and phones for our four-person team. I wasn't there when the system was set up, possibly in the 15th century.

DHS phone switcher, office phone network?

Local servers on the bottom left?

Unlabeled phone patch panel in middle.

Click to expand...
What a messed up Stone Age.
Contact a local network technician.

My best guess is from the low res photo. I've seen some odd closets before and this isn't that bad.

Now, whether or not to upgrade to VOIP or IP phones is up to you as to what works best. The advantage of using a hosted phone service would be less physical equipment around the office. Using a soft phone app from the PC would be easy enough for most. Just need an interface for calls or you could even reroute them through a cell with multi ring. Porting the numbers over to the new service should be easy enough to do. IP pone service should be cheaper for monthly costs vs the POTS system.

If I'm seeing the networking components correctly here it looks like it's time to swap those out. One appears to be an old Linksys router. Maybe a I don't know what kind of switch. It's a bit hard to tell though from the single photo exactly what all is in there. Redoing it in todays standards though should be a nice improvement in performance at least when it comes to the network side.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Ubiquiti and Zyxel Experiences - Switching, Security, Customer Service

Can anyone with experience with Ubiquity and/or Zyxel speak to how well they perform for switching, security, and customer service? Comparisons are even better.

I am need of a quiet gigabit switch with PoE, and it seems that my choices for a single device come down to either Ubiquity (USW-48-POE or USW‐Pro‐48‐PoE) or Zyxel (GS1920-48HPv2). I don't have experience with either of these mfg's, though am slightly inclined towards ubiquity for reasons of US company ownership and given Zyxel has had a couple significant back door vulnerabilities identified in recent years.

I would probably prefer a cisco SMB solution, but there isn't a good combination for low noise that works for me.

[Assistant]
I don't have experience with the particular gear you mention, but I own some other gear from these two manufacturers, so here's an at-least-slightly-informed opinion.

I have two Ubiquiti EdgeRouter-X units that I've had for a couple of years, and I quite like them. They are well made for consumer-level gear and have not given me any trouble. I found them very confusing to set up at the beginning, but that might be just my own initial unfamiliarity with the software and Ubiquiti's terminology.

I've also got a pair of Zyxel NWA210AX wireless access points, and a pair of their powerline adapters, all acquired in the last couple of months. I like these too. Their management GUIs are very old-school looking but they get the job done in a straightforward, effective manner. It's too soon to give them a wholehearted recommendation for reliability, though.

Performance-wise, I'm not pushing the ERX units hard at all so I don't have much to say there. The Zyxel APs are very competitive with other AX WiFi gear; in terms of iperf3 and other benchmarks, they seem to beat out the ASUS and Netgear Orbi units I had before them. No complaints there. (As for the PLAs, see my mini-review from a few weeks ago over in the powerline forum.)

Both companies would like you to buy into their cloud management infrastructure, but you don't have to and I haven't. For this amount of gear I don't think it's worth the incremental security risk. If I were managing dozens of access points it'd be a different story.

As for customer service --- I've not had to deal with returns or warranty issues with either company, so I can't speak to that. Ubiquiti has a far more built-out web presence, better online documentation, and bigger user community. Zyxel's website is relatively sparse on support documentation, and while they do have some tech support people answering questions in their user forums, it's hard to tell how well-qualified those people are. (Don't take my word for it, poke around their websites for yourself.)

On the whole, I don't think you'll be unhappy if you buy Ubiquiti. Jury's still out for me on Zyxel; but so far I'm happier with their products than I was with either ASUS or Netgear.

I use the NWA210AX and am probably the reason @tgl got them.

The Zyxel os is similar to Cisco from the CLI perspective. It's a bit quirky though on some things.

I can't speak to the other stuff they have though. I haven't ventured into ubiquity though and can't comment there either

Tech Junky said:
I use the NWA210AX and am probably the reason @tgl got them.

Well, you and @shoman94 ...


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Would this topology work?

The reason for this layout is due to the fact some smart home devices can only use 2.4GHz and I'd like to keep band steering available on the main Wifi, hence having a separate IoT network.

And I'd like to keep guests off both networks and on their own separate one.

Since the FWG has 3 other ports, I wanted to use the last one for my NAS. Or should I have my NAS on the same LAN port as the main Main Wifi?

Port 1: Main Wifi
Port 2: Split via Switch - IoT Wifi + Guest Wifi (2 different APs, SSIDs)
Port 3: NAS
Port 4: WAN

The ports are 1gig ports if that matters
Sorry if its confusing, glad to clarify if required.

[Assistant]
If I'm understanding your diagram correctly the most obvious potential problem is network loop created from the FWG port 1 to port 2, via two switches and two access points.

It's also not clear how you're segregating your IoT and guest networks from your main network. I'm assuming you're doing it with VLANs, but I'm not sure how if all your switches are unmanaged.

ColinTaylor said:
If I'm understanding your diagram correctly the most obvious potential problem is network loop created from the FWG port 1 to port 2, via two switches and two access points.

It's also not clear how you're segregating your IoT and guest networks from your main network. I'm assuming you're doing it with VLANs, but I'm not sure how if all your switches are unmanaged.
Click to expand...
I see what you mean this won't work then. Thanks a lot for highlighting it.
Yea I'm not particularly savvy in networking so I probably will screw up using a managed switch haha.

Wireless AP, Wireless AP (IoT) and Wireless AP (Guest) can be on the same AP, VLAN separated SSIDs, depending on the hardware you use.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Need some recommendations for 2 switches

Can anyone point me to a few options for switches that would meet the below needs? I will ultimately need around 40ish ports, and would look to break it into two switches, such that I can have some critical devices on a UPS, but not others.

- Switches could be 24port (primary)+ 24 port (secondary) -OR- 10-16 port (primary) + 48 port (secondary)
- POE+ is needed on the secondary switch, and nice to have on primary switch (I could use injectors on the AP's, if needed). POE++ is even better.
- Quiet operation is key due to proximity to theater. Either finless or (better yet) quiet fan models
- Price is important, but I am imagining SMB/SMB+ level equipment
- L2+/L3 - I'm not entirely clear which is needed (L3?) Here's what I want to be able to do:

- Provide separation of traffic for security reasons for the following device types. I'm assuming through VLANs as:
Main Network for trusted devices/computers
Cameras
IoT devices
Renter
Guest
With the 'Main network' able to see the Cameras and IoT VLANs, but not the other way around.

Good long-range hardware/firmware/security patching support is important to me.

A year or so back I started looking at the Zyxel GS1920-24HPv2 switches, and I think some are still available - but not sure that these 'smart managed' class switches would do what I need. Is 'Smart managed' the same as L2+?

What recommendations do you have?

[Assistant]
I have no specific model numbers, but TP-Link switches have been good for me.

Cisco small business switches are very good. There are a lot of used ones out there.

One switch back plane is best but you will not find high densities switches quiet with POE++.

Thanks, coxuahs and Higgins.

Coxhaus, I think you mentioned previously I could accomplish this with either L2 or L3.

Is it safe to assume smart managed switch will not allow for the rules between the VLANs? I am struggling to understand the minimal layer to be able to setup VLANs, and rules for which VLANs can be accessed by which VLANs.

If I have multiple switches (and the primary switch is smaller, for power/ups reasons), do they need to be the same product line, or any two switches of the same layer (smart managed, L2, L2+, L3) will work together fine?


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Two routers to broadcast Two different SSID on access points

Hello,

I am wondering if I can get advice on how to set this up.
I have a regular networking router with my ISP and I have another with an VPN installed on it.
I wish to connect these routers to broadcast two SSID on my access points. (one with regular internet from my ISP and another with VPN network)
What will be needed to make this happen, will a managed switch running vlans be required?

Thanks,

[Assistant]
If you daisy-chain router B to router A, WAN to LAN respectively, and configure them w/ different local IP networks (e.g., 192.168.1.1/24 and 192.168.2.1/24), then you can configure the VPN on router B. Then anyone that connects to router B's SSID is automatically routed over the VPN, while anyone who connects to router A's SSID continues to use the ISP.

Note: clients of router B will also have access to router A's local network, which may or may NOT be desirable.

First, your access points must have VLAN support.
You will need a smart/managed switch supporting VLANs with a port for each access point, a port for each router and at least one port for the rest of your network.
If you need both networks on wired devices, they will also need to support VLANs and you will need ports for them on the smart switch.
Both Realtek and Intel wired network adapters have VLAN support for Windows.

samsungtv said:
Hello,

I am wondering if I can get advice on how to set this up.
I have a regular networking router with my ISP and I have another with an VPN installed on it.
I wish to connect these routers to broadcast two SSID on my access points. (one with regular internet from my ISP and another with VPN network)
What will be needed to make this happen, will a managed switch running vlans be required?

Thanks,
Click to expand...
You cannot use the same AP for two different networks through two different ISP's. You can utilize other methods to route certain traffic to a certain connection or use one for failback if the other goes down.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: How can you setup SSH 2FA for switches and routers?

Helping on a project that has a simple requirement — to lock down our switches and routers to have 2FA for administrator access. But, we’re out of our element on implementing this – and could use advice.
We do not have any sort of directory right now … at all … but will shortly have everyone in the Office 365 Admin with assorted different 365 licenses. So, to an extent, Azure/AD is available if we wanted. But, there’s no on-premise directory, and we’d prefer not to have another item to manage.
We were thinking to use something simple like JumpCloud’s RADIUS in the Cloud service, but we’re open to other ideas. Was hoping to avoid a full Duo, etc… implementation as it’s only for about 50 switches/routers, and only for admins, not users in anyway.
We’ve been able to create an instance of a RADIUS server in the cloud on JumpCloud, and we see the name, secret key, and believe that we have the right Ips, but when messing around in the Cisco console, to see if we can make anything stick, we’re just not getting anywhere. We don’t see the device show up in the JumpCloud dashboard, and not sure if we’re doing the aaa setup right either (or what is necessary from it).
It just seems this shouldn’t be so hard. We seem to be missing the fundamental piece of understanding of what’s necessary to setup simple 2FA for these devices, even using a service like JumpCloud’s RADIUS.
Any ideas? Suggestions as to alternatives? Just looking for something inexpensive and not a pain in the butt for basic 2FA.
Things to note:
- Automated/scripted access doesn’t need 2FA.
- Network monitoring doesn’t have to be 2FA.
- We can have an admin user without 2FA if we lock it to physical access (e.g., console port)
- Can assume everything is Cisco.
- Most of the routers are actually ASAs.
- Most models of switches are Cisco Catalyst (3650 and 4500).

[Assistant]
Welcome to the forums @SWtw.

Are you paying the licensing fees for these Cisco products still? Wonder why Cisco isn't helping here?

Also, this would probably best be answered on a Cisco board?

I have used Cisco's AAA security many years ago. I ran RADIUS on a Windows server with RAID5 with hot swap. It was used across private leased lines so I would think it would run across VPNs. Cloud computing did not exist back then. We had around 500 Cisco devices.
If you lose communication central security access goes down but console access still worked as I remember. Our leased lines almost never were down.

In the enterprise networking world, there is little help with networking that you don't pay for.

SWtw said:
JumpCloud’s RADIUS in the Cloud

I always get a chuckle out of things like this...

"here, put all the important security stuff into this cloud service..." and pray that it's not taken down by an insecure web server...

Again, VPN companies do the same thing - can't trust your internet provider, but surely you can trust us...


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Setting up VLANs on a Switch

I'm looking for help in setting up VLANs on a switch.

[Assistant] What you are describing you need is a Port based VLAN. Not having used the switch you have the emulator doesn't make it clear to me how you set up Port 1 as the common WAN access available to all VLANs. You might find better help looking at the manufacturer's site and FAQ.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: How to revert AQC 107 firmware

Hello

could some one please help me on reverting back the firmware to its orignal one ?

cheers

[Assistant]
Hello

sorry.. i searched every place its not clear just need some guidance.

thanks

AQC107 is aquantia aka Marvell. Rolling back fw isn't really an option to unless you're running Linux and then you change the kernel version to get one that works.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Do Belden RevConnect Keystones fit other mfg plates

Does anyone know if Belden RevConnect Keystones fit other mfg outlet keystone plates, or is their fit strictly proprietary to their faceplates?

[Assistant]
Avery said:
Does anyone know if Belden RevConnect Keystones fit other mfg outlet keystone plates
Yes. It's compatible.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Switch for IPTV (IGMP Snooping required?)

Hello.
I'm searching a 2.5G switch which will work with my IPTV.
I asked QNAP about QSW-1105-5T. They said that this device does not support IGMP Snooping and IPTV.
Then I asked Zyxel about MG-105. They said "The MG-105 is an unmanaged switch. The snooping cannot be configured - all multicast packets are flooded to other ports, which is a good approach for a five-port switch - the IGMP snooping is used for high port count switches, as the overhead caused by this approach starts to become a problem. IPTV will work with this switch without problem."
Is that possible that these two switch so different?
Can you recommend me an affordable 2.5G switch which supports IPTV? (4 port enough.)
Thanks!

[Assistant]
You will need a smart/managed switch.
Why do you need IGMP snooping?
How much are you willing to spend?
2.5 (or beter) smart switches are still fairly expensive.

This Zyxel is least expensive smart multigag I have found so far.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TC3VJ61/?tag=snbforums-20

It has 3 mult-gig (up to 10G)and 8 gigabit ports.

This Qnap switch has more 2.5 gig and costs more.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PDF97BX/?tag=snbforums-20

ali232 said:
Hello.
I'm searching a 2.5G switch which will work with my IPTV.
I asked QNAP about QSW-1105-5T. They said that this device does not support IGMP Snooping and IPTV.
Then I asked Zyxel about MG-105. They said "The MG-105 is an unmanaged switch. The snooping cannot be configured - all multicast packets are flooded to other ports, which is a good approach for a five-port switch - the IGMP snooping is used for high port count switches, as the overhead caused by this approach starts to become a problem. IPTV will work with this switch without problem."
Is that possible that these two switch so different?
Can you recommend me an affordable 2.5G switch which supports IPTV? (4 port enough.)
Thanks!
Click to expand...
"The MG-105 is an unmanaged switch. The snooping cannot be configured - all multicast packets are flooded to other ports, which is a good approach for a five-port switch - the IGMP snooping is used for high port count switches, as the overhead caused by this approach starts to become a problem. IPTV will work with this switch without problem."
: Wrong. IPTV works with any switches which don't support IGMP Snooping. BUT WiFi and network will have a lot of issues. So you need a switch which supports IGMP Snooping.
It's up to your budget. There is no 2.5gb unmanaged switch which supports IGMP Snooping. You should buy a managed switch. Netgear or TP-Link.
1gb unmanaged switch: TP-Link SG105 and SG108 support IGMP Snooping.

jea101 said:
You will need a smart/managed switch.
Why do you need IGMP snooping?
How much are you willing to spend?
2.5 (or beter) smart switches are still fairly expensive.

This Zyxel is least expensive smart multigag I have found so far.

It has 3 mult-gig (up to 10G)and 8 gigabit ports.

This Qnap switch has more 2.5 gig and costs more.

Click to expand...
Because he is using IPTV. He needs it.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: 5Gb gateway/router to 10Gb switches and 2.5Gb clients?

I almost feel silly asking this, but I'm giving up and coming to the experts here

In a couple of weeks, I'm going to get a new gateway/router from AT&T with 5Gb fiber internet service. It's a Arris BGW320 that has a 5Gb LAN port. I plan on connecting that 5Gb port to my Netgear ProSafe M5300-28G3 which has two 10Gb ports. I'll use the 2nd 10Gb port on the M5300 to connect to a Netgear XS708T (several 10Gb ports) in another room. My client devices have 2.5Gb ports.

My question - will my two Netgear switches with 10Gb ports pass the 5Gb internet service, and deliver/transfer the full 2.5Gb bandwidth to/between client devices, even though the Netgears are rated as 100/1000/10Gbs?

I see many switches that specifically designate 1/2.5/5/10Gbs, so I'm unclear if both client and switch need to negotiate the exact same speed in order to pass at the (lowest) rated throughput.

[Assistant]
To use 2.5 and 5GbE a device needs to support 802.3bz (NBASE-T). 10GBASE-T is an older standard and doesn't support 2.5 and 5GbE. I can't see anything on the Netgear datasheet that says it supports anything other than 10/100/1000 and 100/1000/10GBASE-T.

ColinTaylor said:
To use 2.5 and 5GbE a device needs to support 802.3bz (NBASE-T). 10GBASE-T is an older standard and doesn't support 2.5 and 5GbE. I can't see anything on the Netgear datasheet that says it supports anything other than 10/100/1000 and 100/1000/10GBASE-T.
Ah shoot. I was afraid of that. Any workarounds? Replacing both of my 100/1000/10GBase-T switches gonna be $$$.

Do you have a link to the specs of the BGW320? I'm assuming the 5Gb port is NBASE-T and not something "odd".


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Ethernet question

I recently upgraded my network cables to cat8 (I know overkill). I got a good price so I figured might as well upgrade past cat6 since it was the same price.

I’ve run into an issue with the Cat5e patch cable going from my modem to my router. I’ve tried replacing it with multiple cat8 cables at different lengths but all but 1 seem to keep consistent speeds. I’m talking 8 good quality cables showed big fluctuations in speed during speed tests where it would start off fast but slowly drop. I’ve eliminated everything down to the cables. 1 cat8 cable is holding up but it’s only 1 foot and I need something closer to 3 feet.

any suggestions on a replacement cable or something my novice mind didn’t think about?

[Assistant]
There is no standards for Cat8 cables. Marketing.

Buy a high quality Cat5e instead.

Not true, Cat8 is an IEEE standard. However pretty sure OP doesn’t need it, would see no difference from Cat 6, unless one has some special needs. Also I doubt one would be getting a good cat 8 cable for that cheap, next it’s kinda thick and has a higher bend radius. If it’s one of those flat cables it’s not standard likely probably a fake/non standard. There’s a lot of those.

L&LD said:
There is no standards for Cat8 cables. Marketing.

Buy a high quality Cat5e instead.
CAT.8 is the standard since 2016. But it's useless for now. Dirty companies are selling it to consumers with dirty marketing tactics.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: old router as switch to share printers?

I'd like to set up multiple network printers on a single cat5 cable. I have an old Netgear WNR 1500 router that I think could function as a switch of sorts but I can't figure out how to set this up.

Suggestions appreciated. Thank you -

[Assistant]
1. Disable its WAN.
2. Disable its DHCP server.
3. Disable its wireless AP(s) (unless you want it to continue acting as an AP as well).
4. Assign it a LAN ip in the same range as the rest of your network.
5. Assign it the same default gateway as used by the rest of your local network (usually the primary router's LAN ip).
6. Assign it the same DNS server as used by the rest of your local network (usually the primary router's LAN ip).

I'm NOT familiar w/ that specific router. But it's possible (although improbable) the router might be able of configuring its LAN side via DHCP, eliminating the need to manually configure 4, 5, and 6. But in my experience, once you disable the WAN (which does use DHCP), you're more typically forced to configure the LAN side manually.

noah way said:
I'd like to set up multiple network printers on a single cat5 cable. I have an old Netgear WNR 1500 router that I think could function as a switch of sorts but I can't figure out how to set this up.

Suggestions appreciated. Thank you -
It only supports 10/100mb. Buy a switch. 1gb switch is only for $10 to 20$ bucks. It's so cheap.

follower said:
It only supports 10/100mb. Buy a switch.
Most printer's Ethernet ports, at least for home printers, only have 100 Mbps Ethernet ports no need to connect them to a gig switch port on a switch.
eibgrad said:
4. Assign it a LAN ip in the same range as the rest of your network.
Some routers being repurposed as switches may require that you assign it an IP and gateway using its firmware. Other may allow you to assign it an IP using the networks router. Either way works but if you assign the IP on the device being repurposed it may only sporadically show up in a listing of attached clients.

Also if you want and the router's antennas are removable you can do that to save space.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Cat 6 Patch Panels - Keystone or Traditional?

Looking at patch panels... For residential ethernet - is it any better to use a traditional patch panel versus a plate that you insert the keystone jack? I will probably have 30-40 terminations, and will likely buy a whole-keystone jack punchdown tool, as well, but not sure if these types of patch panels are considered not as good.

[Assistant]
Avery said:
Looking at patch panels... For residential ethernet - is it any better to use a traditional patch panel versus a plate that you insert the keystone jack? I will probably have 30-40 terminations, and will likely buy a whole-keystone jack punchdown tool, as well, but not sure if these types of patch panels are considered not as good.
There is no definitive answer because either way will have advantages & disadvantages.
With Keystone couplers you will have twice as many contacts every-time you pass through a coupler... But you will eliminate human error re installation.
The Keystone couples will drive up your cost substantially, however... with your installation-time being accounted for... manually punching all terminations your time will add up... & if you're tired, the possibility of making mistakes will likely increase. Note: I really doubt using two Keystone couplers per line would impair ones ability to achieve 1G or faster speeds.

In either setup you end up up with a female RJ-45 Jack at both ends of the cable. You don't use couplers but take a jumper cable and plug one end into the patch panel and the other into a LAN port on your switch. You will be better off buying factory made jumper cables as it isn't worth the time and effort to make your own short cables with male jacks on both ends.

For the number of ports you want on a patch panel I would probably go with a pre-made patch panel as it would be more compact and finding a neat method to mount 30 - 40 keystone jacks is going to take some research. I have fabricated small patch panels using a quad electrical boxs and then mounting four duplex Decora style RJ-45 female jacks, but going bigger to this means both finding a box(s) and face plate covers.

I might not have been clear in my question. I'm referring to using keystones in one of these:
ICC 12 Port Blank Keystone Patch Panel with 89U Wall Mount Bracket for Slim Profile Keystone Jacks (Sold Separately), UL Listed, Black, IC107BP12V - ICC
The ICC 12-Port Blank Keystone Patch Panel with 89U Wall Mount Bracket offers a compact, ... Read More
icc.com
ICC 24 Port Blank Keystone 1U Patch Panel with 19” Metal Rackmount Housing for Slim Profile Keystone Jacks (Sold Separately), UL Listed, IC107BP241 - ICC
The ICC 24-Port Blank Keystone 1U Patch Panel offers a durable and efficient solution for ... Read More
icc.com

versus one of these 110 style patch panels:
ICC CAT6 Patch Panel, UL Listed & PoE++ Rated Gigabit Applications, Wall Mount 12 Port Network Patch Panel with Rear 110 IDC Terminal Blocks and 89D Wall Mount Bracket - ICC
This ICC CAT6 Patch Panel provides high-speed data connectivity for Gigabit Ethernet networks. Designed for ... Read More
icc.com
ICC CAT6 Patch Panel, UL Listed & PoE++ Rated Gigabit Applications, Rackmount 24 Port 1U 19-Inch Network Patch Panel with Rear 110 IDC Terminal Blocks for Gigabit Network Switch - ICC
Optimize your network’s performance with ICC’s 24-Port CAT6 Patch Panel, designed for high-speed Gigabit Ethernet ... Read More
icc.com


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Switch approach to PoE Devices and Backup Power

I am starting to design my home network topology, and could use some guidance on switch topology and backup power strategy. My AP's (5-7) and security/doorbell cameras (6) will be PoE - totaling maybe 125-150W. I see myself going with a fanless switch, but a a bit challenged on how to handle backup power.

In my head, if I lose power, a UPS will keep up the router and cable modem; however, runtime with all those PoE devices will be greatly diminished (at any size UPS). With my wife and I working from home, ideally I would keep connected as long as possible.

How do I approach this in the least complex way? Ideally I would keep up a few PoE devices, but not all.

Are some switches smart enough to know when they are on UPS power, and able to kill power/connectivity to certain PoE ports/devices? Or am I relinquished to having multiple switches, where a small one stays up and a big one goes down?

Many thanks for the guidance!

Note: I will need to have different VLANs for the cameras, various IoT devices, etc, but would like to keep the architecture simple, where possible.

[Assistant]
Avery said:
I am starting to design my home network topology, and could use some guidance on switch topology and backup power strategy. My AP's (5-7) and security/doorbell cameras (6) will be PoE - totaling maybe 125-150W. I see myself going with a fanless switch, but a a bit challenged on how to handle backup power.

In my head, if I lose power, a UPS will keep up the router and cable modem; however, runtime with all those PoE devices will be greatly diminished (at any size UPS). With my wife and I working from home, ideally I would keep connected as long as possible.

How do I approach this in the least complex way? Ideally I would keep up a few PoE devices, but not all.

Are some switches smart enough to know when they are on UPS power, and able to kill power/connectivity to certain PoE ports/devices? Or am I relinquished to having multiple switches, where a small one stays up and a big one goes down?

Many thanks for the guidance!

Note: I will need to have different VLANs for the cameras, various IoT devices, etc, but would like to keep the architecture simple, where possible.
Click to expand...

Having a switch disconnect clients when the power drops just to not overload an undersized UPS would sort of defeat the purpose of using a UPS.

My approach would be to size a UPS for its intended load and runtime, but keep it as small as possible to control its weight and cost including replacement battery cost every 3-5 years. To do this, you would plan ahead to limit the load and runtime accordingly.

If you need more UPS capacity and/or need a UPS at more than one location, then install more than one UPS. If this gets ridiculous and can't be helped with a better plan, then consider installing a backup power generator for the entire building/site.

Finally, I like to standardize on one minimally-sized but sufficient UPS capacity/build and replacement battery so that I can use the same battery in all of my UPSs. This minimizes all related overhead, imo, like only needing to source/hold one replacement battery. And when a UPS dies (they will), I can salvage its battery for use in another UPS.

So, the tricks are to determine this minimum load and runtime 'standard' for your application(s); where/how to distribute your loads/UPSs to not exceed this 'standard'; and which UPS make/build/battery size to standardize on.

For my simple home network, I use three ~750VA UPSs that all use the same 12VDC 9AH replacement battery... one at my office 'rack' (modem, router, passive switch, 1 or 2 PCs, ATA, and a few other miscellany), one at my media center (passive switch, TV, AVR, etc.), and one in the garage (wireless node/AP, ATA).

I recently bought a 1500VA UPS for someone else for a larger load/runtime. Besides selecting it to meet the application (~1000VA), I also selected it because is uses two of my 'standard' batteries ganged together. So, still standard... just weighs and costs more.

I'm currently sourcing replacement batteries from https://www.atbatt.com.

OE

use separate power injectors or a separate POE switch for the the APs you don't care about. Plug them into a non battery backup circuit on the UPS or a power strip on regular ac circuit. Everything else on as large a UPS as you want to deal with for x runtime.

i have core network gear scattered around my house with separate small UPS ( >1000 VA) so i can last at least an hour. Allows me to ride through most power interruptions. If you want to run longer than that ( check your ISP's ability to stay up as well), you might look into a natural gas powered generator for your house. My ISP uses small ones ( generac usually) to maintain power to their distributed outdoor clusters that supply my service.

Avery said:
I am starting to design my home network topology, and could use some guidance on switch topology and backup power strategy. My AP's (5-7) and security/doorbell cameras (6) will be PoE - totaling maybe 125-150W. I see myself going with a fanless switch, but a a bit challenged on how to handle backup power.

In my head, if I lose power, a UPS will keep up the router and cable modem; however, runtime with all those PoE devices will be greatly diminished (at any size UPS). With my wife and I working from home, ideally I would keep connected as long as possible.

How do I approach this in the least complex way? Ideally I would keep up a few PoE devices, but not all.

Are some switches smart enough to know when they are on UPS power, and able to kill power/connectivity to certain PoE ports/devices? Or am I relinquished to having multiple switches, where a small one stays up and a big one goes down?

Many thanks for the guidance!

Note: I will need to have different VLANs for the cameras, various IoT devices, etc, but would like to keep the architecture simple, where possible.
Click to expand...

One piece of advice would be to consider putting the cameras on a separate switch. Of course, it depends on the camera resolution, number of cameras (eventually that you expect to have) and so forth.

Are you planning to use a network video recorder (NVR) for the cameras? Do you plan to have a RAID system such as Synology backup system? Do you want to have some sliding window of time during which you retain the camera video (and sound if you plan to have audio capture as well)?

One thing I do is to use different color cable for different applications to make it easier to trace cable connections. Mine run in my attic and it helps to be able to visually delineate cables when I'm crawling on my stomach among R30 insulation, a low 4-12 pitch roof and rafters and HVAC ducting....


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: TP-LINK TX3000E and TXE75E

I have 2 of TX3000E. This time I'm gonna buy 2 of TXE75E. Have you guys used a TXE75E? I only use them not for WiFi but Bluetooth.
Anybody?

[Assistant]
Why not just pop the heat sink off and upgrade the M2 under it to an Intel AX210 for $35/ea?

Tech Junky said:
Why not just pop the heat sink off and upgrade the M2 under it to an Intel AX210 for $35/ea?
I'm gonna use them for other computers. I don't even use my onboard AX210.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: QNAP's sub $1,400 16-port SFP28 L2 switch

Most likely overkill for most people here, but QNAP has launched what should be the most affordable 16-port SFP28 port currently in the market.

QSW-M5216-1T | Ultra-high-speed 25GbE fiber managed switch with 10GbE connectivity for backbone networks
The QSW-M5216-1T is a 16-Port 25GbE SFP28 fiber Managed Switch with one 10GbE NBASE-T port. Supporting Layer 2 switching and network management via a user-friendly web user interface, the QSW-M5216-1T provides an entry-level network management solution that is usable even by non-IT...
www.qnap.com

[Assistant]
ServeTheHome had a nice writeup on the switch...

The QNAP QSW-M5216-1T is a 16-port Desktop 25GbE Switch
In what might be the coolest SMB switch release this month, the QNAP QSW-M5216-1T is a 16-port 25GbE switch with a bonus 10Gbase-T port
www.servethehome.com

Might be nice for a homelab - too bad it isn't rack mountable (or maybe QNAP has a kit that would support that use case)

sfx2000 said:
ServeTheHome had a nice writeup on the switch...

The QNAP QSW-M5216-1T is a 16-port Desktop 25GbE Switch
In what might be the coolest SMB switch release this month, the QNAP QSW-M5216-1T is a 16-port 25GbE switch with a bonus 10Gbase-T port

Might be nice for a homelab - too bad it isn't rack mountable (or maybe QNAP has a kit that would support that use case)
Click to expand...
There's a rack mount kit in the box.

Great information about the newer 10GbE equipment. QNAP has been releasing a number of products within the price range for homes and small businesses. I expect 10GbE+ home networking will be the new normal in the not too distant future. The wireless router manufacturers are playing the game of catch up. At least we are seeing some newer routers supporting 10GbE (notable players being Linksys and Asus).


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Proposed home network topology - Please review

Good day

I am planning a network for my home, a building of 4 apartments. Two heads are better than one and so I want to get a review of the proposed topology attached here.

The downlink from telco to home is Fiber 200 Mbps.

Thankfully, please review and tell if there are any missing parts or issues to consider, including possible pitfalls or traffic considerations.

[Assistant]
Is this providing internet service to apartment renters ?
if so, you should investigate the liability laws for you providing access across your network versus each renter contracting with an isp for internet service.

what is the physical construction of the building/apartments and the physical layout and size ? A plot plan and elevation sketch is useful.

it looks like either way you will want to choose equipment that supports vlans, possibly a separate router

Saqr42 said:
Good day

I am planning a network for my home, a building of 4 apartments. Two heads are better than one and so I want to get a review of the proposed topology attached here.

The downlink from telco to home is Fiber 200 Mbps.

Thankfully, please review and tell if there are any missing parts or issues to consider, including possible pitfalls or traffic considerations.

Click to expand...

No problem.
A POE switch should support IGMP.
Recommendation: IGMP, QoS, (VLAN, if you need)

degrub said:
what is the physical construction of the building/apartments and the physical layout and size ? A plot plan and elevation sketch is useful.
The building is a traditional brick and mortar of total 400 sq. meters space. Plot plan is not available. Apartments are not rented.
I am already looking for POE switches with vLANs and LACP for link aggregation with the Synology server. vLAN feature is needed since I plan to separate iot devices from other devices' traffic. Please give recommendations and consideration to note in order to buy the most fit devices. I anticipate there will be moderate to high network use since the number of permanent connected clients is at least 20 including the Synology file and media server and a total of 10 mobile phones.
Where is the network bottleneck ? Is there a minimum down-link or the 200 Mbps will suffice ? Do I need a cabinet or enclosure for network devices ?

Updated network plan is attached.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: USB to Ethernet adapter killing network

Work just provided me with a laptop with no ethernet port (Lenovo P1). Since I prefer the reliability of a wired connection to wireless for work-related activities, I picked up a QGeeM USB C to Ethernet adapter and connected it to a Netgear Ethernet over Power adapter. The Lenovo successfully connected to my network using the adapter and everything seemed fine until another laptop connected to the paired EoP adapter lost its network connection. Replugging the problem EoP adapter restored the connection but only temporarily.

I thought there might be some weird incompatibility between the QGeeM and the Netgear adapters so I tried connecting to an AiMesh node (RT-AX56U) instead. That seemed to resolve the problem until the next morning when I discovered that all wired connections to the mesh node were dead and, worse yet, restarting the node did not restore connectivity. I had to reset the node and reconnect to the main router to get it working again.

Anybody have any ideas as to what might be going on here and what resolution there might be?

[Assistant]
Don't buy random xinese crap?
Never heard of that brand and you're not likely to get any support from it.
There's no way a USB Ethernet adapter should do what that thing has done.
Return if possible and buy something from a known company.

dciarnie said:
Work just provided me with a laptop with no ethernet port (Lenovo P1). Since I prefer the reliability of a wired connection to wireless for work-related activities, I picked up a QGeeM USB C to Ethernet adapter and connected it to a Netgear Ethernet over Power adapter. The Lenovo successfully connected to my network using the adapter and everything seemed fine until another laptop connected to the paired EoP adapter lost its network connection. Replugging the problem EoP adapter restored the connection but only temporarily.

I thought there might be some weird incompatibility between the QGeeM and the Netgear adapters so I tried connecting to an AiMesh node (RT-AX56U) instead. That seemed to resolve the problem until the next morning when I discovered that all wired connections to the mesh node were dead and, worse yet, restarting the node did not restore connectivity. I had to reset the node and reconnect to the main router to get it working again.

Anybody have any ideas as to what might be going on here and what resolution there might be?
Click to expand...
Refund it. Don't trust reviews on Amazon. Those reviews are always for chinese items. Chinese sellers give them it for free or dirty cheap price with coupons. There are so many fake reviews with never heard of items. You can see over thousands reviews per item. Yes fake reviews.
Get this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GRL3VCN/?tag=snbforums-20
Don't forget major brands don't sell USB ethernet adapters except TP-LINK.
Almost all of USB ethernet adapters come from china.
Long term proved USB ethernet adapter(and related in USB) Brands on Amazon.
TP-LINK
Plugable
StarTech
Ugreen
Anker
Amazon basics

I had a feeling that a crap adapter was the problem

What about a Belkin one like https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B086SV2FK4/?tag=smallncom-20


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: USB ethernet adapter versus PCI-E card

I've been having issues with an in-built intel's ethernet device (I219V) in my asus maximus viii hero motherboard which is causing latency spikes and i wanted to supplant it with another ethernet card.

What would be a better choice for a gaming desktop PC with a 6700k processor and internet speeds up to 1000mbit/s (100mbyte)?

Something like this usb 3.0 adapter:

http://www.dlink.com/uk/en/support/product/dub-1312-usb-3-gigabit-ethernet-adapter

Or a simple pci-e card:

http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/cat-11_TG-3468.html

Im looking for a smoother performance and lesser impact on a cpu.

[Assistant]
A PCIe card is preferred over USB 'anything' if latency and overhead is important.

Can't recommend for or against that particular card you link (no experience with them), but I would prefer an Intel based Ethernet solution in any case.

PCIe has lower overhead than USB and latency depends on the chipset. For example nvidia nforce PCIe (the ones used to give you more PCIe lanes) had higher latency. The chip giving more lanes isnt an issue because PCIe is essentially a switch so devices can communicate with each other without going through CPU but that nforce chip itself had higher latencies.

For example my soundcard has higher latencies than a usb soundcard that only just translates the signal and has CPU handle the processing because it has its own CPU and PCIe chip. So even though it lowers CPU usage significantly for very high quality sound there is a significant lag from the sound going in to the speakers whereas the usb wire has almost no latency.

It really depends on what you're looking for. PCIe can have lower latencies than usb and it really depends on the device that is being used. Direct CPU processing will usually have lower latencies if the CPU is fast enough which is why realtek NICs can have lower latencies than some NICs like marvell with its own CPU to handle the processing (both being onboard) but the marvell one lowers CPU usage and has more features. The latency difference is only like 0.1-0.2 ms. So check the chips used by the NICs as it usually isnt the brand's own chips.

As long as you use usb3 the difference is highly dependent on the chip used for the NIC. Compare the features and hardware specs and things like power savings (for usb if you want wake on LAN than power over usb during sleep/power down must be enabled), make sure to check what features are actually hardware accelerated and what is moved to the CPU. For PCIe you need at least 1 lane PCIe V2 or 2 lanes PCIe V1 for a single gigabit port wheares some usb3 ports even though claiming 5Gb/s are actually limited to 2Gb/s because they are connected via PCIe (this is also an important factor). If the usb3 port is connected via PCIe you might as well get the PCIe card otherwise choose the one that suits you best if the USB3 port is part of the chipset.

another thing about usb3 ports PCIe connected is that they are usually only connected by 1 PCIe lane for multiple usb3 ports so multiple usb3 ports share that 1Gb/s of bidirectional bandwidth. So unless you expect to use more bandwidth for usb3 never buy a PCIe usb3 card that is only 1 lane or more than 1 port with 1 lane.

Cel said:
I've been having issues with an in-built intel's ethernet device (I219V) in my asus maximus viii hero motherboard which is causing latency spikes and i wanted to supplant it with another ethernet card.

What would be a better choice for a gaming desktop PC with a 6700k processor and internet speeds up to 1000mbit/s (100mbyte)?

None of the above - the NIC you have is a good one. There's a reason why Asus puts that one on, and it is not because of it being a low-cost solution..

Check drivers, driver settings, turn off power management for that network interface...

Noticed you mention "gaming" computer - have you been "tuning" things? Return to stock clocks for a bit if you've been pushing the bCLK's, and check Asus for any BIOS updates..


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Can only sustain 1gbps for a while - then Ethernet driver drops it to 100

Hi all,

I have a pre-wired home with CAT 5E cable, it's a condo, so runs are very short, I assume max 20-30 feet per run from my media box to rooms in the condo.

Setup is, Router with 1gbps 5-port, feeding 3 ports around the house, 1 device is 100 (cable box), my other two are 1gbps. What I'd like to do, is to maintain a 1gbps from PC to Synology server! Both are 1gbps capable... BUT, having these issues:

1. Win 10 - Intel Ethernet device - auto negotiates only to 100mbps
2. When I manually change speed to 1gbps, it WORKS for a while - THEN, it STOPS altogether. NO LIGHT flashing on the ethernet port, THEN I have to drop Ethernet speed to Auto, or 100 Full Duplex, the connection comes back
3. While it stays on 1gbps, I can achieve upto 500 mbps transferring files, which is something I'd like to maintain.

This behavior somehow tells me something is causing too much dropped packets or error, which then cuts the connection, right?

Questions:
1. What do you think is the main issue? Cable/connectors/ethernet device?
2. I can't re-wire, but I can change my cables to the wall jacks, and RJ45 wall jacks to CAT6, would it help?
3. Anything else I can try?

Thanks

[Assistant]
get a 5 port switch GBit/s and connect the server and the pc to it. Connect a port on the switch to the router lan port. Leave the cable box on the router lan port where it is. Does that fix the issue ?

it could be that the wiring in the condo will not support more than 100 Mbit/s ethernet. This will confirm it.

Bypass the router and the condo wiring all together with a direct cable between the server and the PC. Does that solve the issue ?
Then you know where to focus.

degrub said:
get a 5 port switch GBit/s and connect the server and the pc to it. Connect a port on the switch to the router lan port. Leave the cable box on the router lan port where it is. Does that fix the issue ?

it could be that the wiring in the condo will not support more than 100 Mbit/s ethernet. This will confirm it.

Bypass the router and the condo wiring all together with a direct cable between the server and the PC. Does that solve the issue ?
Then you know where to focus.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I guess if that solves the issue (have to test), wouldn't solve my problem which is ideal server location.

Good advice though, I can try and see.

I had the same issue about a year ago, fixed it by installing new cables
The best bet is to bring your pc close to the router and testing cable by cable.
If win10 auto negotiate at 100 all cables then you know its the ports from your pc or router. So try an other port from your router, then if its still at 100... get a new network card.

simple as that

If the test go smoothly and you get 1000, its the condo wiring


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Ethernet via Phone Jack Installation - Which type of Company?

I'm trying to covert the phone line wiring in my house for ethernet. The house is pretty old and the cables don't seem suitable. I don't feel comfortable trying to do this myself.

What's most suitable - data cabling company vs low voltage electrician vs A/V installer for ethernet install (there are a few phone jack ports that could be replaced, but there are also some that don't have phone jack ports where new holes/runs would need to be done)

I'm trying to understand which kind of company can help and the pros and cons associated with each one.

The goal is to get the wiring suitable for high speed internet without having to hire multiple people.

[Assistant]
would be good to write at least what country you from if you looking for same internet company recommendation.

did you check if you telephone wiring is a twisted one (each 2 wirings are twisted)? if not it cannot be converted and you will need to put new ethernet cable class 5E (1Gb) or better 6A (10Gb).

Adooni said:
would be good to write at least what country you from if you looking for same internet company recommendation.

did you check if you telephone wiring is a twisted one (each 2 wirings are twisted)? if not it cannot be converted and you will need to put new ethernet cable class 5E (1Gb) or better 6A (10Gb).
Sorry, USA. This is my setup atm. I can't get access to the cables inside the wall.

those do not look at all as twisted wirings at all and those are only 2 - this is no way to do that. With 4 wirings will be hard to achieve more than 100Mbit but I am not fun such modification prefer to put new cat 6A internet cable.
this movie is showing how those wirings should looks
- those can be converted.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Point to Point Radio - how long of cable can I tolerate?

I am on an acreage. I receive internet via point to point radio. My router was set up on the far side of my house where the injector was for the point to point radio. I would estimate there is a 35 to 45 feet of cable between the radio on my roof and the injector. The router was hooked up the injector with a 6' cable. Everything worked well, but WIFI coverage was not ideal with the router on far side of the house. A couple days ago, I put a coupler on the 6' cable and ran a new 50' Cat7 cable to the central point in my house. Wifi coverage was great, but the internet was non-existent. I unplugged the cable from router and into a laptop and it worked fine, but I couldn't get the router to work with it. I put the router back on the 6' cable on far side of house and it worked well. My theory was the cable losses were simply too high and the router wouldn't work on end of 50' cable even though the laptop would. I then plugged the 6' cable into a ethernet hub and the 50' cable into the hub, and router back into the end of the 50' hub. The router then seemed to work better. Dumb question, does an ethernet hub boost the signal?

I then permanently pulled 50' of new Cat6 cable through the ceiling (this is different cable from the 50' cable I was using earlier). I was able to plug it directly into the injector without using that 6' cable, or coupler that I was using earlier. Router worked, and I figured the elimination of the 6' cable and connector was likely the solution. HOWEVER, tonight I suffering significant packet loss and slow internet at times. Screen loss below. I REALLY like the better wifi coverage I am getting with a central router, but I need to figure out why I'm losing packets. Two different and brand new 50' cables. I've read I should be able to run 100's of feet. What's up? Is there a limit on the cable length between the injector and the router?

[Assistant]
I need to apologize. I made an assumption the problem was with my equipment and cables and not the ISP. I just connected a laptop directly to the injector (no router) and saw the same packet loss and reduced speeds. I contacted the ISP and learned they are having problems. I DEFINITELY had some cable issues the other day, but the current problems are likely the result of ISP.

I am still curious on maximum cable lengths from the injector to the router and whether a ethernet hub "boosts" the signal? The injector in this case powers the point to point radio which is on my roof.

Cat 5E/6/6A Ethernet, 100m or 300-ish of your feet seems to be the commonly used single longest run suggestion.
You wouldn't be boosting the signal, as it's being retransmitted once it enters the router.

Thank you. I tried "coupling" cables two different ways. One way was to plug the 6' cable and 50' cable into a 5 port TP-Link hub. The other way was to use a single female to female coupler. The hub has an external power supply, and the female to female coupler is unpowered. Are you saying that both will preserve the signal the same? I felt like the 5 port TP-Link hub preserved the signal better, but that was just one test and I may have jumped to the wrong conclusion.

I know office buildings must have ethernet cable runs much longer than 300'. How do they do it?


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: To switch or not to switch

I am currently running a Netgear GS752TP switch as the main data distribution channel in my network with almost all devices (AP's, media, desktop,...) directly hardwired to it. In 2 instances, i use an additional Netgear GS108 switch to have more connection point in 2 locations. APs are Cisco WAP571 powered by the POE+ ports of the switch. Everything is working perfectly fine and above all, very reliable.

Last week i came accross a Cisco SG350-28P switch in brandnew condition on a 2nd hand website (similar to Craigslist) for 100 Euro which i thought was a bargain so i didn't hesitate and bough it - an impulse buy, you can say. I received the switch and it is truly in new condition and actually works perfect.

Now my dilemma is, to change the Netgear with the Cisco or not. Netgear has been fine but i will never need 48 ports and the fans are quite loud but not an issue as my cabinet is in the basement. The Cisco is 24 ports and significant less loud and all ports are POE+ with 4 60W POE ports. I thought that there maybe an advantage of having a Cisco switch working with Cisco AP's but i haven't been able to allocate anything specific in the setting on both devices.

Any advice or insights you all can provide on a do or don't?

[Assistant]
The extra POE power will be nice. I don't think you use VLANs so I am not sure whether you will notice the change out. But let us know if the wireless runs better.

I would run it as a L3 switch with VLANs.

It goes without saying update to latest firmware before putting into service.

Well, after i got the latest firmware update, i migrated from the Netgear to the Cisco switch today. All in all, a painless process as i did have some concerns about the LAG configuration as it looked more complicated than with the Netgear but not so. All seems to be working perfectly fine. I did notice that the Cisco has some features such as protected ports, which may come in handy if i do not want certain devices to have access to the rest of the network but for the rest not much to report. POE working well and the AP's as before. I will do some speed testing later on. I do have the impression that the Cisco has more features but i haven't gotten to that yet.

The Cisco SG350 switch have ACLs which I find nice for controlling local network flows.

I have no idea whether Netgear supports ACLs or not.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Any difference in Keystone jacks? Cat 6+?

Is there any difference amongst cat6 keystone jacks? I'm using Belden Cat6+ enhanced CMR UTP 2412.

If so, I'd welcome recommendations.

Reliable, consistent connections are ideal. Why are some labeled Cat6+, such as Leviton, Belden?

[Assistant]
Avery said:
Is there any difference amongst cat6 keystone jacks? I'm using Belden Cat6+ enhanced CMR UTP 2412.

If so, I'd welcome recommendations.

Reliable, consistent connections are ideal. Why are some labeled Cat6+, such as Leviton, Belden?
Click to expand...
difference: cable hole diameter. cat6 jack is fine for cat6+.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Wink My Review of TP-Link TL-PA8010P AV2 Powerline adapter tested with 20 outlets

Preface:
I’ve read many powerline Ethernet adapter reviews and most of them have done a superb job at highlighting the pros and cons of such solutions, complete with comprehensive benchmarks. Almost all reviews stated that the performance of these adapters is highly dependent on individual homes and the wiring conditions. Basically your mileage will vary widely and you end up in a “plug and pray” situation. In addition, almost all reviews are performed in a lab or office which does not represent a typical home use situation, which is what these products are designed for. My short review is meant to fill in gaps and perform a comprehensive test in a home with 20 different outlets spread out across 3 floors. Hopefully my tests will provide a real-life in-home results that are more representative of the adapter performance.

The adapters used today is the TP-Link PA8010P starter kit. This adapter is based on the AV2 standard and has a theoretical speed of 1200 Mbps. Several excellent reviews are published and you can read them below:

https://www.avforums.com/review/tp-link-av1200-powerline-starter-kit-review.11557
http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/review/p...200-gigabit-powerline-adapter-review-3610443/
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/2015/05/tp-link-av1200-review/

Test Assumption:
Most home users typically have their ISP modem placed in one room, along with a router or is using the built in routing functionality in the modem. With the prevalence of NAS devices, one might have a unit attached to the network in the same location as well. The modem remains static and is rarely moved to different locations in the house as the feed from the ISP demarcation point typically goes to one room or location. The powerline adapter is therefore installed near to the router or modem in order to provide connectivity to the secondary location.

In my test, the first powerline adapter is plugged into my basement office outlet that is the nearest to the gigabit switch, which connects directly to another switch in the utility room that has my FreeNAS server, Sophos UTM and router combo, along with my ISP modem. This is marked as the RED rectangle “T” on the floor plan. This adapter remains static throughout the test and is not moved. The second adapter is then connected to 20 different outlets in the house to test for connectivity and performance. These locations are marked on the floor plan as the numbered blue circles 1 to 20.
These are the most common locations where one might place a computer, access point, media streaming device, network camera or Smart TV that can take advantage of a wired network connection. The different locations are most likely traversing through different breakers or circuits which have a huge impact on performance.

Test Setup:

FreeNAS Server as Host Device
• CPU: Intel XEON E3 1265L V3
• Motherboard: Supermicro X10SAE
• RAM: 16 GB DDR3 with ECC
• Storage Pool: 6 X 3TB HGST 7K4000 Ultrastar in RAIDZ2

HP NC8430 Laptop as Client Device
• CPU: Core 2 Duo
• OS: Windows 8.1 Pro
• RAM: 8GB DDR3
• NIC Interface: Broadcom NetXtreme Gigabit

My House used in this test:
• Located in Ontario, Canada GTA area
• Built in 2012
• 120V
• 200 amp SIEMENS Panel Board

I tested throughput using LAN Speed Test Lite with 500 MB file size. According to the official publisher of LAN Speed Test (Lite), this tool builds a file in memory, then transfers it both ways to a target network shared drive (without effects of windows file caching) while keeping track of the time. It then calculates the read and write throughput. On the laptop, LAN Speed Test maps to a network shared drive on the FreeNAS server, and sends a 500MB file to the server and copies the file back from the server, thus testing both the send (TX) and receive (RX) speed. This test accurately reflects real life performance such as downloading a file from the internet, media streaming, local network file transfer or accessing your NAS.

Please note that the FreeNAS server is able to full saturate a gigabit network link (1000 mbps) so there are no bottlenecks affecting the test results.

Test Results:

The results indicate that you get the fastest speed when you are on the same floor but quickly deteriorates as you move farther way from the first adapter. I wasn’t able to get anything higher than 100 mbps on the first floor despite multiple retests. In my situation, powerline networking will be woefully inadequate if I wanted to setup a HTPC, SmartTV or 4K streaming box in the family room. The second floor has some pleasant surprises and I was able to achieve speed closer to a traditional wired 100 mbps LAN.

User Experience
I performed a few quick real-life application tests to gauge the user experience when connected via powerline networking:

NAS File Browsing – Loading and browsing of 200 photos (18 megapixels) proved to be a slow and painful experience, regardless of location. I experienced frequent stutter and stalling when browsing the folder.

Youtube 1080P Streaming – All streams played back without any issues

NAS Video Playback – Used VLC media player to play back several 1080P clips shot by Canon DSLR. Once loaded, video played back smoothly without stutter. Rewind or fast forwarding is very slow and experience frequent stutter and stalling.

Powerline Networking and Future Implications.

Fast Internet from ISPs – If you are fortunate enough to live in an area with fast internet access such as cable, DSL or fiber with speed in excess of 150 mbps +, you will not achieve the full bandwidth potential on your client devices when connected via powerline networking.

Multiple clients sharing one node – In situations where you have multiple clients (SmartTV, streaming box or HTPC) sharing a single adapter connection via a switch, you will quickly run into bottlenecks and decreased performance.

Browsing files on NAS – Most consumer grade NAS can easily sustain 65MB/sec (650 mbps) read and write speed and powerline networking will be a severe bottleneck. Moreover, clients browsing files on NAS through powerline connection experience frequent stuttering and stalling which further impacts the user experience.

Using powerline adapter to expand WIFI – One can expand WIFI to dead spots in the house by connecting a second access point or WIFI router to the powerline adapter to provide additional connectivity for wireless clients (Ipad, laptop, Iphones etc.) However, any modern WIFI standard such as 802.11n or 802.11ac will be bottlenecked by the powerline adapter. Multiple WIFI clients connected to the router or access point using bandwidth intensive applications (ie. all streaking HD videos) will quickly run into performance issue.

Powerline Networking vs WIFI vs MoCA 2.0
Powerline vs WIFI – Most modern WIFI router with the 802.11n and 802.11ac standard will handily outperform powerline adapters in most situations. In my house with two Cisco Meraki MR18 802.11n access points operating in mesh mode, all WIFI clients consistently operate at 150 mbps + speed. Latency is where powerline adapters come ahead with number as low as 3 to 2 ms compared to 10ms+ for WIFI.

Powerline vs MoCA 2.0 – MoCA adapters use your home’s coaxial cable to transfer data and you can read my review here - http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/lanw...6200-bonded-moca-2-0-network-adapter-reviewed
In short, MoCA adapters performs far more reliably and faster compared to powerline networking. The downside is you must have a coaxial outlet at the intended location where you want connectivity.

[Assistant]
Conclusion & My Thoughts

Powerline networking technology and standards underwent more than 15 years of transformation and AV2 standard is the latest iteration for high performance home networking. HomePlug Alliance oversees the technical standards and related marketing messaging and this where I would like to chime in with my personal thoughts:

Throughout my testing, one thing stood out, I was able to get connectivity on the client laptop within 5 seconds of plugging the adapter into the wall. This is a significant improvement compared to earlier generation of powerline adapters, where connectivity is not guaranteed when you move to a different circuit or location. In situations where WIFI and coax outlets are unavailable, Powerline networking becomes the only alternative for network connections. Powerline technology effectively enabled whole-house networking.

Lastly, I wholeheartedly disagree with the prominent marketing of 1200 mbps performance for these adapters as this number is clearly unattainable, be it in my own testing, other user testing or press reviews. I am also confident that very few houses will ever come close to half the advertised speed of the AV2 standard. I’ve spent a few years working at some of the world’s leading technology companies and every public facing marketing performance claims must undergo thorough legal review, backed by independent testing from in-house and third party labs. I fondly remember that every meeting with the legal department is akin to a mini court case whereby I must present my evidence and on occasion, bring in the actual hardware for a live demonstration in front of the legal director before my claim is approved. I appreciate the efforts and dedication of the in house legal counsel as this important gate review ensured that the product features and performance are truthful, factual and replicable across all conditions. The 1200 mbps performance claim for AV2 standard will never pass the legal scrutiny at these companies and the engineers and marketers would be sent back to the drawing board, along with a very serious warning from the general counsel.

Most consumers are unaware of the performance limitation of these adapter nor should they be burdened to spend the time to test each and every outlet in the house. I hope my review shed some light on the real life performance and user experience of powerline adapters and help you make an informed decision when implementing this in your home networking setup. When performance is the key selling point for powerline networking products, the HomePlug alliance and hardware manufacturers should revisit their marketing message strategy to better reflect real-life experience.

Thanks for sharing your detailed review. I have a few questions.

1) Did you take a LAN Speed Test reference measurement using a Gigabit Ethernet connection?

2) Did you plug each adapter directly into the wall outlet?

3) Was there anything else plugged into the same outlet? If there was, did you see a correlation between poor performance and other devices using the same outlet?

4) Did you perform the File Browsing and NAS playback tests over Gigabit Ethernet for reference?

I don't agree with all your conclusions regarding alternative technolgies. But that's another discussion.

Hello Tim - thanks for reading my review! Below are my response to your questions:

1) Did you take a LAN Speed Test reference measurement using a Gigabit Ethernet connection?
Please let me know if I understood your question correctly - are you asking if I used the client laptop device and performed a speed measurement to the FreeNAS server on a gigabit Ethernet connection? I did perform that test and I can update the result accordingly.

2) Did you plug each adapter directly into the wall outlet?
Each adapter is plugged directly into the wall with surge protectors or extension cord or bars.

3) Was there anything else plugged into the same outlet? If there was, did you see a correlation between poor performance and other devices using the same outlet?
No additional devices are plugged into the outlet.

4) Did you perform the File Browsing and NAS playback tests over Gigabit Ethernet for reference?
Yes and the performance is typical of a laptop connected via a wired gigabit network.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: HomePlug Monitor SW - release announcement

We just made generic monitoring program for HomePlug devices. It perform realtime monitoring of HomePlug network radio parameters such as SNR, Attenuation and Bit per Carrier. More features are scheduled to the future. Testers comments are welcome!

You can find the program here

L.

[Assistant]
lazna said:
We just made generic monitoring program for HomePlug devices. It perform realtime monitoring of HomePlug network radio parameters such as SNR, Attenuation and Bit per Carrier. More features are scheduled to the future. Testers comments are welcome!

You can find the program here

L.
Click to expand...
Pre-Alpha??? Shouldn't you keep it in-house until post-alpha, that is, no known bugs is rigorous testing with what you have?

stevech said:
Pre-Alpha??? Shouldn't you keep it in-house until post-alpha, that is, no known bugs is rigorous testing with what you have?

Hi stevech, thanks for reply. Pre-alpha does not mean development level rather displayed numbers precision. AFAIK there are not any other generic program to display such data so I need to tests on various devices/chipsets, and I have only few boxes. So every try ane shared results are helpful.

Did you try to run HPM? On what device? What about results?

L.

BTW: There are few bugs mentioned in readme.txt and in program forum.

relax said:
Any chance of an OS X version?

Nope. HPM is writen in Win command shell and thus is designed as Win only tool. Hopefully somebody get inspired and help you....


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Powerline Ethernet issues cross-phases?

In the US, common home power has two "phases". Historically, X10 which is just 100KHz, has difficulty coupling across the two phases unless you add an X10 signal-specific phase bridge/coupler, usually inside the breaker box. Some electrical code issues doing this.

Do the ethernet powerline devices have the same issue? Of course, the frequencies are much higher, and OFDM, but the attenuation across phases might still be an issue.

The symptom is that if unit A is in an outlet wired to phase A, then the signal at outlets on phase B are much weaker. This might yield lower data rates or reliability issues.

I've been using MoCA (IP over coax) - but that works only if the coax is where you need it to be!

[Assistant]
HP-AV doesn't have any problem with split phase wiring.
Give it a try.

I wonder why? There's no decent signal path, and X10 PLC is famous for needed an added phase bridge.

stevech said:
I wonder why? There's no decent signal path, and X10 PLC is famous for needed an added phase bridge.
HomePlug has not had a problem with working across phases for a few generations now. It uses both conducted and radiated signals.

See this Intellon Whitepaper.