[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Trouble with MOCA Set Up

Hello, I need some assistance with a MOCA set up that im trying to get up and running, my ISP is frontier with 1Gig fiber service, they have set up a MOCA adapter with an FCA251 configured on the WAN setting and works normally, I tried to set up a MOCA LAN network to no avail, MOCA light does not come on on neither GoCoax adapter, I have confirmed that the splitter I have in place is over 1000 Mhz (Its actually a 5-2000 Mhz), I have done a straight connection with both gocoax adapters and the MOCA light did come on. I dont know if I am doing something wrong or if there is a splitter somewhere in the attic preventing the MOCA connection and if that would be the case why is that the FCA251 is able to stablish a MOCA connection with the ONT on WAN setting?

Thank you in advance

[Assistant]
Do read through the posts from Krkaufman regarding Frontier devices.

@krkaufman ?
Frontier is your specialty, IMHO.

cotorassiel said:
frontier with 1Gig fiber service, they have set up a MOCA adapter with an FCA251 configured on the WAN setting
Why a FCA251 set to "WAN"? Do you also have TV signals on your coax?

The issue is likely due to the operating frequency associated with the FCA251["WAN"] setting overlapping with the standard MoCA Extended Band D range that the retail goCoax adapters are trying to use.
FCA251["WAN"]: 1475-1675 MHz
MoCA Ext. Band D: 1125-1675 MHz
What *should* have been done, absent TV signals on the coax, was to use an FCA252 adapter set to "25GW" ... either in coordination w/ an ONT natively supporting the associated operating frequency, or using a pair of the FCA252 adapters, with one installed at the ONT to proxy the MoCA WAN link. The critical bit is that the FCA252["25GW"] setting shifts the MoCA WAN to a frequency range NOT overlapping w/ MoCA's Extended Band D:
FCA252["25GW"]: 400-900 MHz
MoCA Ext. Band D: 1125-1675 MHz
The resulting setup, along with the MoCA LAN connections, might look something like the following...

You should contact Frontier to get you setup properly, since they may need to reconfigure the ONT to support the alternate MoCA WAN frequency, along with getting the FCA252 adapter(s) without charge.

p.s. More Re: the Frontier FCA252 adapter >here<.

---------------
degrub said:
Frontier is your specialty, IMHO.
Meh, few others seemingly jumping to respond to these setups doesn't really make them my specialty as much as a void of interest or knowledge on the part of others. There really isn't much to this Frontier workaround, and it's definitely well documented at this point.

cotorassiel said:
I have confirmed that the splitter I have in place is over 1000 Mhz (Its actually a 5-2000 Mhz)
FWIW, this likely isn’t a splitter optimized for MoCA. See the following:
MoCA-compatible splitter recommendations(… and warnings)
preferred MoCA filter: PPC GLP-1G70CWWS (Amazon US listing) … 70+ dB stop-band attenuation, spec’d for full MoCA Ext. Band D range, 1125-1675 MHz


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Issues with MoCA 2.5 - What am I doing wrong

So, I've got 2 goCoax MoCA adaptors working over a cable (its a joined cable in the attic, but its acting as a single cable). The connection works well. But now I want to add a third goCoax, so I'm trying to use a splitter to add the third one (building a network backbone using the coax/MoCA network). The splitter I bought is a BAMF SB-2006 which supports MoCA 2.5. But when I add the splitter into the mix, I can't get the MoCA lights to confirm the connection. I've got the cable on two of the outputs with nothing on the input connector and nothing on the other 4 outputs. The only change I'm making is adding the splitter to the mix.

I'm wondering:

1) Is the splitter, even though it supports MoCA 2.5 dropping the signal too much to allow a connection?
2) Can I just use a T junction and add a third cable to the mix without using a splitter? (Somehow I doubt this, but could I?)

Any advice?

[Assistant]
Why a 6 port splitter ? Use the smallest one that will do the job.
How many cables do you need to connect ?
Are these RG59 or RG6 coax cables ?

A sketch of the coax network showing all devices and terminations is sometimes useful for diagnostics.

What else is on the coax cables that you are trying to use ?

BTW, i suggest using a different splitter, specifically designed and Certified for MOCA 2.0. They should have lower loss between each output port. The satellite splitters like you have may not work.

Also, place a 70 dB MOCA POE filter on the inlet port to maintain improve moca signal quality. All open ports should have a 75 Ohm termination cap installed.

Here is a previous thread that may be useful
The Moca adapter is not working , please help
Hello everyone , I didn't know about Moca adapter until a couple days ago. I was and am currently using Powerline network adapter and that is working ok but I want to take it to the next level since I play competitive online games like BF5 so I bought the Actiontech Moca 2.0 ( ECB6200 ) ...
www.snbforums.com

AndyJT1 said:
The splitter I bought is a BAMF SB-2006 which supports MoCA 2.5.
Not really. See the following:

* MoCA-compatible splitter recommendations (… and warnings)

‘gist: A splitter can be optimized for satellite service or MoCA, but not both.

AndyJT1 said:
I've got the cable on two of the outputs with nothing on the input connector and nothing on the other 4 outputs.
As mentioned in one of the above links, even with the BAMF splitter, you may have luck if you were to add a “PoE” MoCA filter on the splitter’s input port, and cap all open/unused ports (including the MoCA filter) with 75-ohm terminators. (Using a right-sized MoCA-optimized splitter would be preferable, per your preferred topology.)

degrub said:
Why a 6 port splitter ? Use the smallest one that will do the job.
How many cables do you need to connect ?
Are these RG59 or RG6 coax cables ?

A sketch of the coax network showing all devices and terminations is sometimes useful for diagnostics.

What else is on the coax cables that you are trying to use ?

BTW, i suggest using a different splitter, for MOCA 2.0. They should have lower loss between each output port. The satellite splitters like you have may not work.

Also, place a 70 dB MOCA POE filter on the inlet port to maintain improve moca signal quality. All open ports should have a 75 Ohm termination cap installed.

Here is a previous thread that may be useful
Click to expand...
I got a 6 port as its a large house and my plan is to add at least another two MoCA adaptors in the near future, but want to get 3 working first. Already found a source for the 75 Ohm terminators. Do I really need a MoCA filter if I'm not using the input? or can I just get away with a 75 ohm terminator there?


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: MoCA setup to share both TV and DATA in the UK, some advice needed please.

Hi all,

I'm moving house to a rental property very soon and I already have access to the house. I'd normally run network cables, drill through walls as and where necessary but I can't do that here.

So I'm going to use MoCA. The first aim is to simply put a new AP in the loft to provide WiFi for upstairs. There is an existing coax distribution which is in the loft. TV aerial comes in, and goes into an old 3 way booster, to 3 different rooms in the house.

I have a couple of the GoCoax adapters, and I've linked these between the loft and what will be my office, and getting a decent speed - not quite 2.5Gb, but about two thirds of that which is fine for my needs. This is isolated from any TV side of things.

What I would like to do though is have data in the loft still (for the AP), but combine the TV aerial feed & MoCA signal down the coax to both the office and living room. I have a Homerun twin tuner which I use with Plex, so I'd like to send a TV feed to that in the Office, then it's just on the network. If possible, I'd like to send TV + Network to the living room as well. I could just stick with data and watch TV via plex, but it's not as good as having the aerial feed going into the TV's own tuner.

So I've done the diagram below to describe the setup, but I'm a little lost on how I send MoCA + TV down the coax to both rooms, assuming that is possible. Not sure what splitters / adapters I would need.

I can see that you can get these StarMax MoCA adapters that have TV, MoCA and LAN on them, so I'd assume you'd have these in the rooms like the office / living room, and it would do the splitting for you. As mentioned, just not sure how to combine and distribute from the loft to achieve this. Any advice would be appreciated.

[Assistant]
DeadMode said:
Hi all,

I'm moving house to a rental property very soon and I already have access to the house. I'd normally run network cables, drill through walls as and where necessary but I can't do that here.

So I'm going to use MoCA. The first aim is to simply put a new AP in the loft to provide WiFi for upstairs. There is an existing coax distribution which is in the loft. TV aerial comes in, and goes into an old 3 way booster, to 3 different rooms in the house.

I have a couple of the GoCoax adapters, and I've linked these between the loft and what will be my office, and getting a decent speed - not quite 2.5Gb, but about two thirds of that which is fine for my needs. This is isolated from any TV side of things.

What I would like to do though is have data in the loft still (for the AP), but combine the TV aerial feed & MoCA signal down the coax to both the office and living room. I have a Homerun twin tuner which I use with Plex, so I'd like to send a TV feed to that in the Office, then it's just on the network. If possible, I'd like to send TV + Network to the living room as well. I could just stick with data and watch TV via plex, but it's not as good as having the aerial feed going into the TV's own tuner.

So I've done the diagram below to describe the setup, but I'm a little lost on how I send MoCA + TV down the coax to both rooms, assuming that is possible. Not sure what splitters / adapters I would need.

I can see that you can get these StarMax MoCA adapters that have TV, MoCA and LAN on them, so I'd assume you'd have these in the rooms like the office / living room, and it would do the splitting for you. As mentioned, just not sure how to combine and distribute from the loft to achieve this. Any advice would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

I use a MOCA2.5 adapter paired with a Holland DPD2 2-way diplexer (low insertion loss, MoCA compatible 2-way splitter) to allow tapping into MoCA+Amped OTA coax around the house (US Region).

Diplexer coax connections:
IN/OUT port connects to MoCA+Amped OTA (house coax wall plate)
SAT port connects to MoCA adapter (to Ethernet)
VHF/UHF connects to TV antennas/tuners (will not connect a MoCA adapter)
Maximum of 16 MoCA adapters on one network.

MoCA2.5 adapters that have a 2.5GbE port seem to not include an internal 2-way coax splitter... this is an advantage, imo, that permits using your own select 2-way splitter such as the Holland DPD2 2-way diplexer suggested here.

My network notes and layout. I have one HDHomeRun Dual TV tuner near the garage attic TV antennas (best antenna signal and wired to garage node/AP LAN1-4 port restricted to Guest VLAN for Internet and peer access only)... and another in the house at the living room media center wired to unrestricted main LAN. (The Guest VLAN is used by all mobile devices that do not need main LAN access, including my own... Guest users get their own TV tuner hardware for the VLAN segmentation.)

My impression (no measurements) is that the MoCA+Amped OTA coax network does not require amplification... the MoCA adapters handle this. The OTA TV antenna signal likely deserves preamplification at the mast and then maybe distribution amplification before connecting to the MoCA+Amped OTA coax network.

My cable ISP coax is kept separate from the MoCA+Amped OTA coax, so a POE/MoCA filter is not required at the ISP demarc (and also not at the TV antennas).

OE

You want MOCA modems with the built in diplexor for TV signals if you run MOCA and TV signal on the same coax. i would not use a splitter. The best layout is if you can put your HD-Homerun on a direct cable from the antenna ( no splitters, POE filter needed ) . Otherwise, you will likely need a low noise 15 dB amp on the downlead from the antenna. You will loose about 3.5 dB for every insertion connection on the TV frequencies. The diplexor in the moca modem will not incur the signal loss, just the connection.

MOCA requires 75 Ohm impedance. Make sure the cable is 75 Ohm. You will have to replace the existing amplified splitter if moca signals are to be passed through it as it will filter them out. Best to put the AMP at the antenna if one is needed.

ChannelMaster , in the US, makes a good low noise amp that also filters LTE cell phone signal. Here is the one i use
Amplify Adjustable Gain Preamplifier
Official Channel Master Website - Learn more about the Channel Master Amplify (CM-7777HD) and buy direct from the manufacturer.
www.channelmaster.com

Since the existing tv setup had a 3 way amplified splitter, the amp will be required if you cannot put the HD Homerunn on the direct cable.

Thanks for the replies guys, plenty of food for thought there and a few devices I didn't even know existed. Perhaps the best bet is to have the Homerun in the loft coming off a switch that is also going to the AP. I guess that way, it stays pretty simple and I can just stick with sending data down the two coax runs to the Office and Living room.

There is a further slight complication in the loft in that I had to splice a power cable going to the loft light, so I could power the existing MoCA adapter and also a POE injector for the AP. I'm concerned that I don't want to put too much power draw on the cable I spliced, I'll have to have a look at the load from the HomeRun, a small switch, MoCA adapter + POE injector. I guess I could use a small POE switch and eliminate the injector!


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: MOCA 2.5 Help Needed - Why Are my Speeds Slow in 1 Direction?

I have the ScreenBeam (ActionTec) ECB7500 (moca 2.5)

I have two PCs (both Win11 Pro). Both have the same specs. When i transfer from PC1 to PC2 across the 2.5Gbps network i get 285MB/s. However, when transferring the same file (after clearing the system file cache via RAMMap) from PC2 to PC1 i only get 112MB/s. iperf3 tests are the same (ie. one direction is full, the other direction is half). My guess is the "bonded" feature is working only in one direction since you can see its roughly half the speed. Can't figure out why though. Maybe one of the moca devices is defective??

It used to work fine (speed was 285MB/s in both directions). Nothing has changed on the network.

I hooked both Moca devices directly to each other using a tiny coax adapter so its only inch apart from each other -- eliminating any concerns of distance or a corrupt cable. The same problem persists. I have moca filters but obv in this test they were not needed.

I swapped both devices and the speed and direction loss remains the same and in the same directions, despite using the other moca for a pc. You would think the direction would reverse. Wrong!

I connected my ethernet cable directly to both pcs and the speed returns to 280MB/s in both directions. So its not a Windows config issue.

ScreenBeam sent me their latest (soon to be released)firmware (v. 1.18.7.5) to upgrade to recently to see if it would resolve the issue. It did not. My org version was 1.18.2.0.

Their tech thinks i need to increase my TCP Window on both PCs to resolve the issue. I told him that using my ethernet cable with no moca devices shows the tcp window is not the issue cuz my speeds return to 285 MB/s in both directions. His response:

"Because of the nature of the MoCA connection, it has higher latency than an Ethernet connection. Even if the maximum UDP throughput is the same as Ethernet, high-speed TCP throughput requires more buffer (TCP window size) to reach the same throughput as Ethernet."

If that were true then the speed in both directions would be 112MB/s, which it is not. So latency isnt the issue. But nonetheless, i set on both pcs:

netsh int tcp set global autotuninglevel=experimental
Registry: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Tcpip\Parameters!Tcp1323Opts (DWORD) set to "3"

Unsurprisingly, it made no difference.

Any ideas? I'm all out.

[Assistant]
get into the diagnostic pages for the moca modems to check power levels and sync rates.
The only other thing to look at is the power wall warts. Swap them only and see if the problem moves with the power wart.

Registered here just to post this. Having the EXACT same issue in my case with GoCoax adapters. 2 windows machines with Realtek 8125b cards. All POE filters in place (outside and on cable modem). Web UI shows inter-node link is at full MOCA 2.5 speed. Both machines saturate the 2.5G connection over ethernet.

Speed in one direction about 215MB/s. Speed in the other direction is capped at 50MB/s

@kelllogg9 did you ever find a solution?

I'm seeing something similar with a pair of ScreenBeam ECB7250's, but worse: one direction achieves full-rate 2.35Gbps per iperf3, but the other direction can only manage a couple hundred Mbps. I've not yet tried the swap-the-adapters idea. Anyone have a clue what's causing this?


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Connecting my Asus GT-BE98 Pro router to a Verizon TV+ network

Hello,

I currently have Fios TV+ internet setup. ONT > CR1000A MOCA router > coax To VMS 4100 ATV Box > wireless To Verizon TV+ Box > HDMI to AVR > HDMI to TV. My problem is getting my Asus GT-BE98 Pro router onto the internet.

First, if I connect the Asus router Via Ethernet directly to the ONT the router works flawlessly with my 1Gb service I get 910 downloads and 925 upload but no TV streaming. So I add an Actiontec 6250 Moca 2.5 into the coax; still no TV (yes, I inserted the MOCA correctly)

Next I connect the Asus router Via Ethernet directly to the 10T Gb port on the Cr1000A now connected coax to the ONT> Cr1000A coax > the VMS 4100 ATV TV streaming works fine, so I bridge the CR1000A for an Asus AP. I turn off all the all radio/wireless. Lost TV and the Asus router tests 750-800 download - 250-300 upload. It would seem the new Verizon TV+ streaming requires not only coax MOCA but wireless too for the VMS. Turned all the radio/wireless back on, TV returns after multi resets' router, Asus remains 750-800 download - 250-300 upload crippled. If I try other settings on the Cr1000a, the Cr1000a router or VMS crashes. PS all bandwidths set to max

I would like to eliminate the Cr1000a from the network and use the ONT port for the Asus router and coax for the TV, or get the correct internet speeds from the CR1000a.

Can anybody help me with this?

Thank you for your time.

[Assistant]
Well, one option is to cancel the TV service and go with YouTube TV (or similar). As a spectator, I haven't seen anyone solve this for Verizon's new TV+ boxes; they seem to require connectivity through a Verizon router to maintain connectivity. (Have seen /r/FiOS reddit threads where people have reported success, but with the caveat that the TV+ boxes lose connectivity after around 7 days.)

I'd definitely recommend sifting through /r/FiOS to see if anyone's cracked it, yet.

Thank you for your response and time.

Yeah, the VMS Server seems to require coax and Wi-Fi connection. If I go for full ONT > GT-B98 I get the great up/down speeds but if I insert the 2.5 MOCA the signal seems to get held up in the VMS which I think it requires something from a Wi-Fi signal. I have to look into what the VMS is looking for, It could just be I have to match a static IP or certain settings that would mean I only have to match it in the GT-B98, but if it needs something encrypted I'm screwed. Next I'm going to try ONT > Gt-B98 + Coax MOCA and run Ethernet from GT-B98 to Verizon VMS port. (Need A Very Long CAT-8 cable) However, the quest isn't over .... I can't let Verizon win!

I think for now I'll have to live with the Verizon's TV + but I have to solve the internet speed problem; going to looking into the CR1000A settings to see if I can improve the speed from it's T10Gb port.

Furthermore, I will be back to report my progress - any help would be appreciated.

Joe Wee said:
Yeah, the VMS Server seems to require coax and Wi-Fi connection.
The TV+ client boxes are natively wireless-only, but can be wired-up via Ethernet or MoCA — provided you request the special “StreamTV MoCA Ethernet Adapter” (model# ASK-MAE311):
ASK-MAE311 product page
user guide
They’re supposedly provided gratis, one per TV+ client — if requested.

But this doesn’t resolve the FiOS gateway issue.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: So Mom gave me a MoCa project and I'm stumped...

Hello everyone. I am kind of new around here, and new to networking in general. From these forums and Reddit I was able to learn how to install Merlin on my AX86U Pro with Skynet and Diversion. Thanks to everyone's posts here that helped me get my AX86U Pro setup and running well with all the goodies. I learned a lot and I want to learn more.

Now a new project has landed in my lap from a family member and I am asking for help with this because my first two attempts did not work and I am not sure why. I don't remember how I set it up the first two times, but I have a new idea listed below.

The basic starting condition was Spectrum Internet connected by coax to a EN2251 Modem. This was connected to the 2.5Gbit port on the Asus AX11000 Router. I set that up and everything runs perfectly. However, the house is too big for this router and my relative ordered a ECB7250 starter kit, which came with two adapters, cables and splitters. She also bought three PoE Filters. She said "Here's another networking project for you" and I was happy to help. I was left confused as the initial setup attempts didn't work, so I put the network back the way I found it and got it up and running as before - so that I can humbly ask this community to explain how I should set this up and offer any insights.

Here's my new idea for the layout, please correct me if anything is wrong:

It is my understanding (now that I've read more) that I should: Wall Coax -> MoCa Adapter -> EN2251 Modem -> AX11000 At this point I should power up the MoCa and Modem, then the router. Once all the lights are on, I install the second MoCa Adapter in the far back room: Wall Coax -> MoCa -> PC. Power up the second adapter, wait for the lights and then power up the PC and test.

Final note, I've have also read that the EN2251 might have issues with MoCa and I would need a PoE filter but I have no idea where to put it. My best guess is in the main room in between the wall and modem?

Any help is appreciated. She is still in the time window to return the MoCa adapters and get a second router. Cost is a factor in this, she can't afford much more for this, except minor expenses.

Thanks in advance. I appreciate it a lot, and my Mom will too.

[Assistant]
As I read that post it sounds wrong because the Modem needs a Coax IN and sends Ethernet OUT. The MoCa devices only have one of each port. Honestly stumped, lol.

No, leave the incoming spectrum -> modem -> ASUS router wiring alone. What you want to do is connect some LAN port of the router to a MoCA adapter (with ethernet cable), plug the MoCA adapter into some coax that's in the house walls, plug the other MoCA adapter into the other end of that coax cable, plug that adapter's ethernet port to the PC or whatever device you need at the far end. Now you have the equivalent of a long ethernet cable from the router's LAN port to the PC.

The ideal situation here is that you have an identifiable coax cable that goes between the two points you need, has no other connections, and is not being used anymore for TV signals. If it is being used for TV, that's not fatal, but then you need signal splitters (those "PoE filters") to separate the TV and ethernet signals. The fly in the ointment is that in a pre-existing house it's frequently very hard to tell what is connected where and whether there are multiple cables connected via splitters. You might get away with not knowing the details if you only need the one MoCA pair and the entire house's coax plant is idle. Otherwise it's time for some sleuthing.

Currently Studying said:
Spectrum Internet connected by coax to a EN2251 Modem
You’ll need an extra 70+ dB MoCA filter on the cable modem, as a prophylactic, to protect the modem from MoCA signals. This “prophylactic” MoCA filter should be installed directly on the cable modem or on the splitter output port directly feeding the modem.

Of course, the extra “prophylactic” MoCA filter only matters once you have a working MoCA link. More critically, your plan lacks the 2-way splitter at the modem/router location to get both the cable modem and MoCA adapter connected to the room’s coax wall outlet; and also lacks any discussion of the coax junction, getting the locations interconnected via MoCA-compatible components and a “PoE” MoCA filter properly installed to secure the setup.

See:
outline/highlights for a cable+MoCA setup
Example diagram:


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Issues with Verizon CR1000B, Hitron MoCA HT-EM5 adpaters, and Netgear RAX70

Hi, I've posted this across multiple different internet forums but had no luck and am hoping for different results here at SNB.

Basically I have Verizon Fios with their given CR1000B router, and from that, I have both the coax port going through a splitter (2.5 GHz 5-2500 MHz rated but no terminator caps on the unused ports and a POE filter on the incoming signal but we only have internet) that are then connected to a Hitron HT-EM5 2.5G adapter. This adapter is then connected to an unmanaged Netgear gigabit switch, which then connects to a PC, Xbox, and PS5.

On the other end of the router, I have a Netgear RAX70 connected via Ethernet which is then set up in AP mode. On this Rax70 I have a PC and a JBL soundbar both hardwired. I also throughout both routers have a multitude of wireless devices (IoT, Phones, Tablets, Chromecasts, etc) Diagram is included below.

The issue I have is that when the RAX70 is in AP mode the PC connected to the MoCA adapter intermittently loses internet connection. Now, it doesn't just lose internet connection, the device adapter itself says that there's no ethernet connection period. As in, the same status as there being no cable inserted into the adapter. Now, when the PC connected to the RAX70 is off, however, this does not occur. Furthermore, when we turn the RAX70 into router mode and have 2 networks with a double NAT etc, this issue also does not occur.

I have tried troubleshooting this in multiple ways, seeing if there are IP conflicts, wiring issues, etc. I have even connected the PC to the MoCA adapter directly without the network switch, but nothing seems to work and I can't id the problem. I have used Wireshark, and nothing in Wireshark on both computers would give me any indication of a problem. I have tried getting new DHCP IP4 addresses, every possible combination of CMD commands (ipconfig), Powershell (winsh), you name it. I am honestly at my wit's end here.

I don't think it's a hardware issue, I don't think terminator caps are giving me this issue even if it is best practice. At this point I think it's either a software issue or a networking issue. I haven't connected the two desktops to the same router which could maybe show more, but at the moment that is not possible since I work from home and the other PC user also does a lot of work from their PC. Theoretically, I could just keep this its own separate network, but besides it being an inconvenience, I'm sure most if not everyone on this forum would love to figure this out and get these devices working in their intended manner. If anyone had any tips or pointers, or needs more info (logs, screenshots, etc), would happily provide. This has been killing me and idk know where else to go!

[Assistant]
I'm feeling a bit suspicious about using the FiOS router's coax port. I have a CR1000A, which I believe to be substantially the same hardware, and its user manual basically disclaims compatibility with everything:
Warning: The coax port is intended for connection to Verizon devices only. It must not be connected to any exterior or interior coaxial wires not designated for Verizon devices.
So what I'd try is getting another ethernet-to-MoCA adapter, plugging that into one of the FiOS router's spare ethernet ports, and using that to drive your MoCA link instead of using the FiOS router's own coax port.

A different line of thought: I imagine you are using the FiOS router's 1/2.5/5/10G port to connect to the RAX70, just because it's there? I had some weird compatibility issues with the 10G port on mine, and eventually stopped using it in favor of the two max-2.5G ethernet ports. It's not like you need any more speed than that for your FiOS connection.

And a third thing: you're evidently not using the FiOS router's wireless access point, but are you sure that's turned off? I found that you had to dig deep into the "advanced" settings to make it really shut off. I'm not sure that having that active could cause your reported problems, but the last thing you need here is any unintended data pathways in your LAN.

(Truth be told, my FiOS router is actually sitting on the shelf at the moment --- I eventually got fed up with it and replaced it with a pfSense router from Netgate. But that was about wanting more configuration control, not because I was still having compatibility issues.)

tgl said:
I'm feeling a bit suspicious about using the FiOS router's coax port. I have a CR1000A, which I believe to be substantially the same hardware, and its user manual basically disclaims compatibility with everything:
Warning: The coax port is intended for connection to Verizon devices only. It must not be connected to any exterior or interior coaxial wires not designated for Verizon devices.
So what I'd try is getting another ethernet-to-MoCA adapter, plugging that into one of the FiOS router's spare ethernet ports, and using that to drive your MoCA link instead of using the FiOS router's own coax port.

A different line of thought: I imagine you are using the FiOS router's 1/2.5/5/10G port to connect to the RAX70, just because it's there? I had some weird compatibility issues with the 10G port on mine, and eventually stopped using it in favor of the two max-2.5G ethernet ports. It's not like you need any more speed than that for your FiOS connection.

And a third thing: you're evidently not using the FiOS router's wireless access point, but are you sure that's turned off? I found that you had to dig deep into the "advanced" settings to make it really shut off. I'm not sure that having that active could cause your reported problems, but the last thing you need here is any unintended data pathways in your LAN.

(Truth be told, my FiOS router is actually sitting on the shelf at the moment --- I eventually got fed up with it and replaced it with a pfSense router from Netgate. But that was about wanting more configuration control, not because I was still having compatibility issues.)
Click to expand...
Hey tgl, long time no update. So I've been working on this in every configuration since this last comment. I've tried every suggestion you offered plus everything else I could either come up with on my own or research. As of now I'm still stuck with a double NAT config but I'd rather not have that if possible.

I can't think of any reasons as to why this still doesn't work other than

1) These Hitron MoCA adapters (HT-EM5) simply aren't good (Which is the general consensus around here it seems like?), there's no firmware updates for them either as far as I can tell

or

2) The RAX70 I'm using is having issues. But I'm still so confused as to why, the MoCA adapters and the RAX70 don't directly connect to each other, the CR1000B is doing all of the heavy lifting.

My next steps are to either 1) Buy a new MoCA adapter and test it out to see if its really a hardware issue and/or 2) downgrade the firmware of the RAX70.

In the meantime is there any software you suggest that could monitor the network activity of the device connected to the MoCA adapter to maybe see if it's an IP Conflict issue? I've used Wireshark and it seems like hit or miss when it comes to detecting it, unless my settings for it are all wrong.

Sorry, I know zip about network monitoring apps for Windows.

Re-reading your original post, it sure feels like this must be a software not hardware problem, if the issue goes away after turning off a PC that's not even connected to the MoCA gear. As you say, an IP assignment conflict could perhaps explain it --- but you did check that the two PCs report being given different IPs, right? Also, maybe it's the DHCP server that is dropping the ball. I forget whether the CR1000x GUI will show you its DHCP server's list of IP leases, but perhaps checking that would offer some insight.

Another experiment that could be worth trying is to plug the second PC directly into one of the CR1000B's LAN ports rather than going via the RAX70. Is the behavior any different from having the RAX70 in AP mode? Notably, does that PC get a different IP address that way? (I'm not recommending this as a permanent solution, just trying to gather data.)


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: List of MoCa 2.5 Devices [Updated 8/25/20]

I decided to make a list of MoCa 2.5 devices, since more are coming onto the market now. I won't be reviewing them in this post though. Since this forum does not support tables natively, I am using an image with a list of numbered links corresponding with the right column of the table. Please PM me with any missing information, or feedback, etc.

MoCa Network Extenders/Bridges:
Manufacture Model Eth. Port
Speed Coax TV
Passthrough MSRP Purchase Links
GoCoax WF-803M 1Gbps Yes Single: $59.99 https://www.gocoax.com/buy-now

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYDG7WN/?tag=snbforums-20
Actiontec ECB6250 1Gbps No Single: $109.99
Pair: $199.99 Single: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088KVYZGK/?tag=snbforums-20
Pair: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088KV2YYL/?tag=snbforums-20
Translite TL-MC84 2x 1Gbps Yes Pair: $179.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z3SB1HH/?tag=snbforums-20
Kiwee Broadband KB-M3-01 2.5Gbps Yes Pair: $199.99 Discontinued?
Kiwee Broadband KB-M3-01L 1Gbps Yes Unknown Discontinued? (Same as StarLink unit)
Teamly Digital TDNM250 2.5Gbps Yes Unknown Distributors Only. Selling to end-users soon?
StarLink MN2525 1Gbps Yes Pair: $115.99 https://www.ebay.com/itm/StarLink-MoCA-2-5-Ethernet-Adapter-MN2525-Full-Duplex-Gigabit-Ethernet-2-Pack-/392833435890

Other Devices:
Coming Soon!

Post Versions:
1.0, 6/7/2020: Created post
1.1, 8/1/2020: Added StarLink unit, updated prices
2.0, 8/25/2020: Migrated table & links to new format

[Assistant]
I don't believe the Actiontec is available outside telco OEM use... so most everyone reading this won't be able to purchase them. Also worth mentioning (and double checking if you can...) that all MoCA 2.5 devices today are using the Maxlinear chipset. I understand other vendors, such as Broadcom, have given up on MoCA and are concentrating on WIFI 6 and beyond instead for home networking.

Some of these are also OEM units; I believe the GoCoax is actually manufactured by CIG (Cambridge Industries Group):
https://www.cigtech.com/home-networking/
Or GoCoax is the retail branding they are using in the US; don't know. But the GoCoax WF-803M seems the same as the CIG WF-803M.

Booboo22 said:
Some of these are also OEM units; I believe the GoCoax is actually manufactured by CIG (Cambridge Industries Group):
https://www.cigtech.com/home-networking/
Or GoCoax is the retail branding they are using in the US; don't know. But the GoCoax WF-803M seems the same as the CIG WF-803M.

Interesting point, I'll look into it. Thanks.
And the Actiontec unit is no longer for OEMs only. It's on their website, and my post has a link to purchase from Amazon.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Perplexing MoCA issue

So I'll start by saying I'm new to MoCA. Short story, when copying large files (60+GB) from PC to media storage over the MoCA network, the transfer rate is around 20-22 MB/sec. When copying the same file from the PC to media storage over ethernet (really long one strewn across the house), I am seeing speeds of 90-95MB/sec. I'm ok with those speeds as they're getting copied to a 1Gbps device to a 5400rpm HDD. I can't for the life of me figure out why I am not seeing the same speeds across the MoCA network as i am going through just the ethernet cable.
Specs:
-PC has 2.5Gbps nic
-Router has 2.5Gbps ports
-MoCA GoCoax MA2500D
-MoCA link speeds are 2.5Gbps
-MoCA PHY rates are 3500ish on everything
-Ethernet cables are new Cat6a cables
-Coax cable is new RG6 cable
- MoCA devices given static IP addresses matching my subnet mask
-Settings left the same from the factory other than IP Address
-One of the MoCA devices came with older firmware (2.0.14 or something) and I was given the new firmware (2.0.16 or something) which I updated to. The other device already came with the newer firmware.
-Only one (in the office) is the master (Preferred NC box checked).

Test Case:
Not using ANY splitters, filters, other devices...
Really simple test case to see the speeds.......
PC->Router->MoCA->MoCA->Storage Device = 20-22MB/sec
PC->Router->Ethernet->Storage Device = 90-95MB/sec

There isn't too much to change in the MoCA admin pages. Not sure what they all mean though.

Does anyone have any ideas? Please. lol

[Assistant]
MOCA, like wifi is half duplex. So best sustained between a pair of modems between two devices should be about 1.25 Gbit/s *0.9 (overheads) = ~ 1 Gbit or at least 100 Mbyte/s

One thing that can be helpful is to connect the ethernet side of the moca modem into a switch rather than direct. There may be buffering issues or MTU/frame mismatch. Are you running Jumbo frames ? don't.

Do you have just a single pair of moca modems or is this part of a larger moca network ?

There should be diagnostics page that will give you a clue about mangled packets, retransmits, etc. The modems appear to be syncing at the correct value.

Change out the ethernet cables that you are using to connect the moca modems to the router and to the device.

If you have two PCs running windows with the same 2.5 Gbit/s ethernet connections, get a copy of iperf V2 (not V3 which is for linux), run parallel streams, maybe 10 or 20, in each direction and see what transfer bandwidth you get over moca and over direct ethernet.

GoCoax has been helpful in the past in resolving issues, so i would contact their support with what you are seeing.

degrub said:
MOCA, like wifi is half duplex. So best sustained between a pair of modems between two devices should be about 1.25 Gbit/s *0.9 (overheads) = ~ 1 Gbit or at least 100 Mbyte/s

One thing that can be helpful is to connect the ethernet side of the moca modem into a switch rather than direct. There may be buffering issues or MTU mismatch. Are you running Jumbo frames ? don't.

There should be diagnostics page that will give you a clue about mangled packets, retransmits, etc. The modems appear to be syncing at the correct value.

Change out the ethernet cables that you are using to connect the moca modems to the router and to the device.

If you have two PCs running windows with the same 2.5 Gbit/s ethernet connections, get a copy of iperf V2 (not V3 which is for linux), run parallel streams, maybe 10 or 20, in each direction and see what transfer bandwidth you get over moca and over direct ethernet.

GoCoax has been helpful in the past in resolving issues, so i would contact their support with what you are seeing.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the prompt reply.
-I tested without the switch for simplicity, but normally it is indeed connected to a 2.6Gbps unmanaged switch. Same results both ways though.
-Not sure how to set Jumbo Frames, but I'm pretty sure I'm NOT using them.
-I haven't seen mangled packets or retransmits, but dropped/bad packets are listed. Those values are always zero.
-The moca modems are directly connected to the router and the device.
-I was hoping to run iperf tonight, hopefully usable information is produced.
-I had contacted GoCoax, but their email turnaround time is painfully slow. It takes days to get a reply and sometimes miscommunications in emails requires days worth of re-sent information. I haven't given up with them yet though.

FatherTime said:
Thank you for the prompt reply.
-I tested without the switch for simplicity, but normally it is indeed connected to a 2.6Gbps unmanaged switch. Same results both ways though.
-Not sure how to set Jumbo Frames, but I'm pretty sure I'm NOT using them.
-I haven't seen mangled packets or retransmits, but dropped/bad packets are listed. Those values are always zero.
-The moca modems are directly connected to the router and the device.
-I was hoping to run iperf tonight, hopefully usable information is produced.
-I had contacted GoCoax, but their email turnaround time is painfully slow. It takes days to get a reply and sometimes miscommunications in emails requires days worth of re-sent information. I haven't given up with them yet though.
Click to expand...
Screen shots can be useful without having to translate.

So, if i understand the original post correctly, both moca modems are connected to 2.5 Gbit/s router/switch ports and the storage device has a 1 Gbit/s interface and is always connected to either the router switch or the unmanaged 2.5 Gbit/s switch ?

When you did the ethernet cable versus moca test all you did was plug in the ethernet cable to the router 2.5Gbit port and the switch 2.5Gbit port while unplugging the moca modems from each ?

You were using a simple file copy command in windows explorer or ctrl c, ctrl v ?

i think there have been some similar posts before about this issue.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: A MoCa mystery of some servers having slower speeds?

I have an access point connected via goCoax MA2500D on ATT Fiber (2.5 Gbps into the home). It is a direct coax connection between adapters, and the rest of the coax in the home isn't used/connected to anything. The issue I just stumbled across is my adapter seems to be slowing downloads from certain servers... for example, some speedtest/fast.com servers will download around 300~ Mbps and upload fine, but other servers will pull over 1 Gbps no problem. You'd think it's just a problem with those particular servers, right? Well no, because if I run a speed test on those exact same problem servers from my router instead of the AP, those servers pull full speed through the router where the MoCa was experiencing slower downloads.

OpenSpeedTest local tests pull just fine as well over MoCa... so again, MoCa is somehow a factor, but only certain servers are affected? I also tried physically swapping the AP to a different piece of hardware, and the situation was the exact same.

Example... here is a problem server on the MoCa AP:

Runs fine on the router:

[Assistant]
OpenSpeedTest between MoCa AP and local PC (WiFi 7 device):

If you want to test the moca throughput, you should do it between two PCs at each end of the moca connections. You can use iperf2 under windows . Don't use iperf 3 on windows as there are issues. You have to use the -p switch to saturate the moca link. About 10 parallel streams is good.. The two PCs need to be able to keep up with the test as well. Search on this subforum for an example cmd line for the test.

You cannot use a wifi device to test nor a router to test. result is not meaningful for evaluating what the moca modems and the PCs are doing. Going across the internet to another server adds too many variables as the path is not fixed and the server loads vary.

The reason to isolate the moca segment for testing is that if there is any traffic in the other direction across the coax during the period of the test ( from the pc or other users/router/ap, internet, etc) that will influence the result. MOCA is like wifi - it is half duplex. So on average with a MOCA2.5 direct connect setup, you get about 940 Mbit/s both directions. If the flow in in one direction, you can get up to the full available bandwidth of roughly 1.9 Mbits/s.

degrub said:
If you want to test the moca throughput, you should do it between two PCs at each end of the moca connections. You can use iperf2 under windows . Don't use iperf 3 on windows as there are issues. You have to use the -p switch to saturate the moca link. About 10 parallel streams is good.. The two PCs need to be able to keep up with the test as well. Search on this subforum for an example cmd line for the test.

You cannot use a wifi device to test nor a router to test. result is not meaningful for evaluating what the moca modems and the PCs are doing. Going across the internet to another server adds too many variables as the path is not fixed and the server loads vary.

The reason to isolate the moca segment for testing is that if there is any traffic in the other direction across the coax during the period of the test ( from the pc or other users/router/ap, internet, etc) that will influence the result. MOCA is like wifi - it is half duplex. So on average with a MOCA2.5 direct connect setup, you get about 940 Mbit/s both directions. If the flow in in one direction, you can get up to the full available bandwidth of roughly 1.9 Mbits/s.
Click to expand...
I understand the desire to cut other potential variables, but what I'm experiencing doesn't jive with that assessment, so I don't see the need to do that. It is 100% repeatable, and the testing I've done is not strictly over WiFi - even a hardwired device to the AP exhibits the same repeatable low download bandwidth from specific servers. One of the screenshots I posted was a WiFi 7 local speed test from the AP repeatably returning 1.7 Gbps throughput (proving that WiFi is definitely NOT a limitation anywhere near what I'm experiencing from certain speed test servers)... yet as soon as I target the speed servers in question, it is 300~ Mbps download from the AP whether over WiFi or a hardwired. Testing the exact same servers from the router (WiFi or hardwired), this 300~ Mbps download limitation entirely goes away. And again, this only affects certain servers through the MoCa AP - other servers will push full bandwidth no problem through the MoCa AP.

I have seen other posts where people have commented on having similar MoCa throughput issues, but none of them mentioned the degradation only occuring from specific servers.

Put in as simple of terms as possible:

--MoCa AP--
Server A: 300~ Mbps download, normal upload
Server B: normal download & upload
Local: max throughput

--Router--
Server A: normal download & upload
Server B: normal download & upload
Local: max throughput


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Coaxial Signal leaks / induction

Hello all,

I have some coaxial cables in the flat I moved in and because there's coaxial cabling, I thought, bingo, I'll plug some G.hn adapters and have gigabit LAN. Unfortunately, the G.hn mesh is only stable up to three adapters, no matter where I plug them. I tried two different vendors, similar results. At 4 adapters, it starts behaving very strangely.

I then decided to properly reverse engineer (if there is such a thing as proper reverse engineering) the coaxial cabling without tearing down the walls, I stumbled upon very strange effects.

From the outside, it looks like a unicable setup: one cable goes from the basement to the first socket on floor 1, then the second, and so on up to floor 2 (appartment is on two stories and there's a basement). There are 5 coaxial sockets in the flat and all have two coaxial cables in them (I opened every single one) in and an out, except the last one, which has only an in. The splitter for the house is in the basement (I have access to it), I have disconnected the coaxial cabling of the flat from it. The cable modem is in the basement and connected to the house splitter. Then the G.hn device in the basement is connected to the coaxial cable that goes up to the flat.

Someone else lives in floor 0, which is why this coaxial cable is so important to me, it's my only way to have a local network up to the basement with gigabit speed: laying additional cables is not an option, the alternative is powerline, which I tested: it offers 20Mbps between basement and flat....

Now to the weird part: I plugged G.hn devices in 4 sockets (basement, 2 on floor 1 and one on floor 2), then removed the Axing 967-11X socket in Room 2 on floor 1, leaving IN and OUT dangling out the wall. This should normally cause everything in floor 2 to lose G.hn signal from the basement and vice versa, only that did not happen, they "only" went down from 1700Mbps to 200Mbps.

So now I suspect something is quite wrong in my coaxial cabling, which would explain why the G.hn devices are having such a hard time building a mesh bigger than 3 devices.

Induction on coaxial cables should be inexistent in my understanding. The 1 cm of naked copper dangling out the wall in Room 2 should not cause enough induction for this to happen.

I'm out of ideas, so I'm open for any wild theory and how to verify it. What could explain this drop in bandwidth instead of complete loss of signal when I disconnected the unicable in the middle?

[Assistant]
Nope, induction between coax cables is not a thing --- the outer shield sees to that. There has to be something else going on. You mentioned a house splitter but provided no details; what is that (still) connected to? I'm suspicious that there's still some signal pathway involving that.

Somebody else did some experimentation in the past and demonstrated MoCA maintaining a connection between disconnected coax cables. To eliminate the possibility, you could terminate each end of the disconnected cable with a barrel connector and 75-ohm terminator.

That's how it looks like, very high level. The Cable provider is not connected to my local coax anymore, only up to the cable modem (basement). The rest is a segregated coax network. (again, this is all theory based on what I see coming out of the walls – I can't see through the walls if someone did something funny in the past...)

Cable provider <==> Cable Modem <=eth=> Router <=eth=> G.hn adapter <=coax=> oher G.hn adapters.

Thanks for mentioning induction is a thing if the cables are not properly terminated, that's helpful. I thought I was going crazy.

So I see two possible sources of issues (please pile on if you can think of other problems):
* Induction – only if there still is some cable not properly terminated somewhere.
* reflection – for example, a splitter somewhere in the wall with no 75Ohm cap on the unused connectors.

(I don't think I have an attenuation problem, I get 1.5Gbps+ from the basement up to the last coax socket in the flat, if I connect only three G.hn devices. And G.hn uses 0-200MHz, which I think has a low probability of being filtered out by some splitter for example – but that's just my personal gut feeling)

Any idea how I could narrow down the problematic location in my coax network?

Maybe it's worth hiring a professional with the right tools to measure everything from the basement to every socket in the apartment. I don't have the right equipment for this and buying it might end up being as expensive as getting a technician...


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Intermittent MOCA Problems

I am having problems with ECB6250 MOCA 2.5 adapters where the connection to the Mac Mini (see diagram) drops once or twice a day.
There are coax 2 splitters and both are MOCA capable.
The POE filter is outside the house inside the Comcast ONT.
Resetting the office MOCA adapter resolves the problem and all is well until the next drop.
All unused coax ports in the house have 75 ohm terminators (despite the old photo showing 1 empty jack).
There are no TV signals going over the coax, just Comcast DOCSIS 3.0 and MOCA.
I've attached screenshots from the office MOCA adapter (ECB6250 #1) .

Any idea what I can change to address the problem?

Thanks in advance!

Norm

[Assistant]
nrgiii2 said:
There are coax 2 splitters and both are MOCA capable.
Except they’re not; the 6-way isn’t a model I’d consider designed for MoCA. Based on the attached diagram, I’d consider shifting to a 2-way plus 4-way splitter configuration, instead (ex: Antronix MMC1002H-B + MMC1004H-B), with a 70+ dB “PoE” MoCA filter installed directly on the 2-way’s input port to maximize the reflective benefit. The top-level 2-way would connect to the modem location and the secondary 4-way splitter.

The Picolink splitter should be fine, given it shipped with your adapters, but it would be worthwhile ordering a replacement for it, as well, as a precaution. (Order from somewhere with a good return policy.)

Separately, you could take a pair of MoCA adapters and connect them at each end of a given in-wall run to check the MoCA stats (get the PHY rates) for each coax line, to see if any of the runs demonstrate inferior quality. If so, open the wallplates and check the termination quality for the cabling; you can test with the wall outlets bypassed, as well, to rule out a coax outlet as the issue source.

p.s. The PHY rates table shown does seem to indicate an issue with MoCA adapter #1, with the rates in the vertical column associated with adapter 1 all showing well below the preferable 3500-3600 range. Pretty odd for the diagonal “GCD” rates to be so low, as well; these are typically in the 600-700 range.

at least replace the 6 way with a powered "0 loss" MOCA 2 rated splitter. That may address the #1 moca adapter path loss issue if it is not a cable/termination issue. It will also keep the signal level to the COX modem at a high level (possibly too high - you will have to check in the modem down/up link pages) . You will want to get the COX modem off of the MOCA coax path eventually as they are likely to move to DOCCIS 3.1 which will take over 2 or 3 of the MOCA 2.5 bands leaving you with the equivalent of MOCA 2.0 bandwidth to share among the nodes. So 1) isolate the COX modem from the rest of the coax if possible and 2) replace that splitter with a MOCA 2 certified splitter(s).

degrub said:
at least replace the 6 way with a powered "0 loss" MOCA 2 rated splitter. That may address the #1 moca adapter path loss issue if it is not a cable/termination issue. It will also keep the signal level to the COX modem at a high level (possibly too high - you will have to check in the modem down/up link pages) . You will want to get the COX modem off of the MOCA coax path eventually as they are likely to move to DOCCIS 3.1 which will take over 2 or 3 of the MOCA 2.5 bands leaving you with the equivalent of MOCA 2.0 bandwidth to share among the nodes. So 1) isolate the COX modem from the rest of the coax if possible and 2) replace that splitter with a MOCA 2 certified splitter(s).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply.
I'm pretty sure Comcast is already using DOCSIS 3.1 in my area as they offer GB internet. I intentionally did NOT buy a 3.1 modem to avoid infringement into the MOCA spectrum.
I was wondering if DOCSIS 3.1 traffic could causing my problems even though I don't have a 3.1 modem? Would the POE filter be expected to block DOCSIS 3.1 ? I suspect not.
I can't really separate the modem and MOCA with the way the house is wired. I will be running ethernet to my wife's office if I can't resolve the MOCA issues.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: loose coax? moca help

See two photos.
The mess on the left is for cable tv? or satellite system? the wires on the outside of the house are cut and end. House does not have a satellite dish.

The green arrow shows a single line in for spectrum confirmed as seen in the box outside.

it goes into the two way splitter. The other two lines then go up I assume into the attic to drop down into four coax connections:
1. living room
2. master
3. second bedroom
4. third bedroom/office

I have 3) MOCA adapters I used successfully in my last house. I would like to use them in this new house.
My question is should modem be connected down here in the basement?

Also in the other photo what are the two open ends for?
Did they run two lines throughout the house to get the 4 connections then run them back down here to be open?

Lastly I would like to establish a connection for my home theater system which is in the unfished basement and there is no coax connection presently.
Could I run new cable from one of the open ends and stablish a 5th connection at my tv/receiver?

Thanks for any help.

[Assistant]
Get a simple coax "ring out" tester to identify each coax run and where it terminates ( wall plate, open coax, splitter, etc). Maybe 15-20 $ at local Home Depot or Lowes. Then make a sketch of what is where and which cable goes where and what it is attached to. Need to know details on all pieces of gear attached -splitter with model name and number, modem, TV boxes, etc. Then post the sketch/list with each item labeled. We can give you better advice and you won't be making assumptions. Hopefully, there are no connections inside the walls with splitters. Also, need to check what is behind each wall plate to verify no onward connection there.

That splitter probably needs to be replaced with a MOCA 2 certified splitter. If your Spectrum modem is using DOCCIS3.1 and if you share coax with MOCA, the MOCA bandwidth will be severely reduced. Best option is coax for moca that is not in the path of the Spectrum signal to their modem. If you have to share coax, then you/we need the map of the coax plant so we can come up with options that may work.

BTW, what are the name and model of the MOCA modems you have ?

See photos.
pretty simple set up.
Spectrum line in.
splits to:
A. Living room
B. Office/Bedroom 3

Then runs up into attic.
Coming back down and over to lines 3&4 which are open at the end are:
C. Bedroom 2
D. Master Bedroom

Also see photos of Spectrum Modem and Actiontec MOCA adapters. ( I have 3)
I had MOCA splitters but must have left them at the old house.

I recall doing this last time I needed a POE filter. Would that apply again here?

Forgot to mention.
Nothing is attached at the other end to any of the coax.
I have google wifi mesh running wireless.
phones on wifi in bedroom.
tv with roku running on wifi in living room
desktop and laptop running in office on wifi
in unfinished basement home theater set up TV, receiver, blu ray player PS4 all running off wifi currently.
At times my home theater system will get 170Mbps i should be getting 400Mbps from Spectrum.
hoping to get speeds up again with MOCA to home theater and office.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Advice sought regards best solution for providing ethernet to detached garage. Homeplug vs Mesh vs P2P Bridge?

Hi,

I am seeking for some appropriate recommendations for distributing my ethernet LAN to a detached garage to which the laying of a dedicated ethernet cable is not practical. Accordingly, alternate comparative solutions are sought together with the various pros and cons involved as well as some suggestions to the optimal means of implementing said solution(s).

To offer some background:

The garage, whilst detached, is in close proximity to the house (a small bungalow) and already has dedicated mains power although not ethernet. Ethernet distribution serves the front of the property via a pair of wireless mesh routers though they are located at the opposite end of the property to the garage. Provision of a dedicated buried ethernet cable is out of the question due to the preclusive cost of digging a trench the entire length of the existing concrete driveway.

The two routers in question are both Asus AX Routers (an AX88U and an AX86S) running the current Merlin firmware. They are presently configured in 'Mesh' mode with the AX86S (situated mid property) being the secondary node connected by 'wired backhaul' to the AX88U (the primary router Node) at the front of the property. The remainder of (the lesser used) areas are adequately served by Wi-Fi (to iPhone/iPad/Hue Smart Lighting/Misc Smart Homepod Speakers/Devices) with this setup, including to the kitchen (closest part of the building to the garage) at the rear and to the adjacent rear garden area.

Until recently I had not considered providing ethernet connectivity to the rear of the property or to the garage until an automated smart (Apple HomeKit compatible) roller shutter door was recently installed comprising an Ethernet/Wi-Fi bridge device and (in due course) a connected smart HD Security Camera. The Roller Door itself is currently configured with a 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi connection (a limit of the bridge device's restricted 802.11 b/g/n Wi-Fi capability) but this was difficult to establish and at times can be unreliable which is not ideal. However, the bridge device (much like the proposed security camera) provides for an alternate Ethernet connection (via USB to a USB/Ethernet adapter) which would be more secure and reliable. Security is also a prime consideration for the camera installation where, rather than utilising the option of a dual band Wi-Fi connection which the purchased camera enjoys, I would much prefer the added safety and security offered by connecting it to the LAN via it's RJ45 connector.

Initially my thoughts focused upon a 'HomePlug' type Powerline solution with the Tx adjacent to the AX88U and the Rx in the Garage potentially alongside another Mesh AX Router to act as 'wireless backhaul' for LAN ethernet distribution within the garage whilst simultaneously providing an additional Wi-Fi zone serving the rear of the property in much the same way I would have contemplated had it been it practical to lay an underground ethernet cable. However, reading various accounts of HomePlug issues of both connection quality and reliability in garage settings made me investigate whether there were other more practical solutions available.

Those suggested by others have included straightforward AI Mesh routing (third Router) in pure wireless backhaul, Point to Point Wireless Bridging, either in standalone format or within an AI Mesh with node functioning in Wireless Backhaul whilst the Bridge Function operates for the Ethernet connections to the LAN (though I confess I have no idea how to accomplish this nor the practicalities involved), Media Bridge Mode (I am unfortunately ignorant as to what this is and how it might be used) and finally, variations upon my original HomePlug theme!

Perhaps some of the more experienced folks might suggest a more appropriate/best practice solution and the best means by which to implement it.

Looking forward to expanding my very limited networking knowledge and thank you all in advance.

Best regards,

PC Pilot

[Assistant]
PC Pilot said:
The garage, whilst detached, is in close proximity to the house (a small bungalow) and already has dedicated mains power although not ethernet.
What about coax?

So, powerline or wireless to detached garage... no Ethernet unless you can wire to the back of the house and then go outside buried to the garage (garage power/devices and house power/devices must share a common Earth ground).

Skip powerline unless you have to, I think.

Skip MoCA2.5 unless you have coax between house and garage.

Point-to-point wireless may be too much equipment for such a short hop/small application.

Wireless AiMesh may require a house node located closer to the rear of the house to ensure a stable wireless backhaul to a node in the garage, ideally on a UPS. This wireless link between two nodes may be stronger than the existing wireless connection between garage clients and your house node. You would want to test for this before deciding where the house node should be located... maybe the existing central location is close enough for a wireless backhaul between two nodes. The garage node would share its WiFi between backhaul and wireless clients in the garage, so hopefully the wired and wireless garage clients do not require too much throughput.

If all of the garage clients are to be wireless, maybe you only need to move the house node closer to the garage... this would be most efficient all around.

Wireless media bridge simply uses a router in the garage in Bridge Mode to connect wirelessly to a house WLAN using all of its WiFi for the backhaul (strongest), but then only connects wired clients in the garage. I'd want WiFi in the garage so I'd skip media bridge, but it remains an option with the same equipment.

Beware that an exposed LAN connection in the garage could present a security risk... anyone in the garage could plug in to your house LAN unless you can get clever with VLAN-capable equipment... AiMesh may not be ready for this yet.

Fortunately, your existing AiMesh is wired; otherwise, your garage traffic would have two wireless hops back to the main router over WiFi shared with house clients.

You may discover that your existing wireless connection(s) from the garage are not so great simply due to the client build/quality... some IoT can be limited by design, so look out for that... test the networking with a capable wireless client like a laptop in the garage to know what is achievable with a capable wireless client.

OE

If you do happen to have a cable-TV coax line out to the garage, MoCA is a great choice as @krkaufman says. I'm betting you don't though. Powerline (homeplug) might work, although it works best if you can put the two modules on the same power circuit --- and if your place was wired by someone at all competent, the garage will not share a power circuit with anything inside the house. Still, powerline is quite cheap (I had good results with TP-Link AV2000 modules that I got on Amazon for $90 for the pair). So I'd try that first, especially if you can buy the gear from someplace return-friendly.

If neither of those work then you have to use a wireless solution. I think the main problem with the setup as you have it is that you need an additional router/AP at the rear of the house --- the mid-house one is evidently too far from the garage. Probably the bridge device you have would work fine once there's an AP that's close enough. You could replace it with another Asus unit running in "media bridge mode", but you'd be spending a lot of money for probably just marginal improvements.

One other thought, since you are mentioning security cameras: are you hopeful that those would keep working during a power outage? If so you will need a UPS in the garage to power the gear there, and one or more in the house to hold up whatever equipment you deem security-critical. I mention this because powerline is not a viable choice with that requirement: every powerline unit I've ever seen wants to draw power from the mains it's attached to.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Actiontec ECB6250 vs MAE340

have a FiOS ONT outside the house, I want to put either a ECB6250 or MAE340 on the inside opposite it.
I'll run Cat6 to the device, then use the existing coax to reach a 2nd ECB6250 or MAE340 at the Gateway1100 router so I can go from 100M to 300M.
Are they both capable or is one better or is there something better?
I also currently have a MoCA ext via a ActionTec MI424W to the 2nd floor. That is behind a spliter.

[Assistant]
Is this a dedicated coax for just this one run or is it shared with other moca or other services ?
Are you trying to go from 100 meters to 300 meters on a coax run ?
or was this 100 Mbit/s to 300 Mbit/s ?

sorry, should have been clearer. 100Mb to 300Mb.
dedicated from the original FiOS install.
hmm, lemme check that statement tmrw with light.

no TV on the coax. OTA comes from a different piece direct to TV


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Video conference hiccups - MoCA problem?

I am experiencing occasional hiccups / freezes during conference calls with my home network over MoCA.

I live in an apartment building that provides Gigabit Internet. It has a wireless access point in each unit (IBT U6-IW-US) with 4x GbE RJ45 ports. I am getting 925Mbps up and down over wired connections to my laptop, versus around 350Mbps over wireless. So obviously, a wired connection has my preference.

I decided to utilize the coax outlets in the apartment for a wired connection to my home office desk with 2x Motorola MM1025 MoCA 2.5 adapters, like this:

IBT Access Point - MoCA Adapter - Coax outlet - Coax cable behind walls - Coax connector - Coax cable behind walls - Coax outlet by desk - MoCA Adapter - Computer

All other coax outlets, including the 'incoming coax cable' from TV/Internet provider are disconnected. Also, I exclusively use CAT8 ethernet cables.

When I disable WiFi on my laptop and connect directly to the MoCa adapter, I am getting the 925Mbps speeds, but am occasionally experiencing hiccups. These hiccups do NOT happen when I connect directly to the access point (either wired or wirelessly).

What could be causing this? Thank you for reading...

[Assistant]
mobidutch said:
I am experiencing occasional hiccups / freezes during conference calls with my home network over MoCA.

I live in an apartment building that provides Gigabit Internet. It has a wireless access point in each unit (IBT U6-IW-US) with 4x GbE RJ45 ports. I am getting 925Mbps up and down over wired connections to my laptop, versus around 350Mbps over wireless. So obviously, a wired connection has my preference.

I decided to utilize the coax outlets in the apartment for a wired connection to my home office desk with 2x Motorola MM1025 MoCA 2.5 adapters, like this:

IBT Access Point - MoCA Adapter - Coax outlet - Coax cable behind walls - Coax connector - Coax cable behind walls - Coax outlet by desk - MoCA Adapter - Computer

All other coax outlets, including the 'incoming coax cable' from TV/Internet provider are disconnected. Also, I exclusively use CAT8 ethernet cables.

When I disable WiFi on my laptop and connect directly to the MoCa adapter, I am getting the 925Mbps speeds, but am occasionally experiencing hiccups. These hiccups do NOT happen when I connect wirelessly to the access point.

What could be causing this? Thank you for reading...
Click to expand...

Can you test with a temporary/healthy coax cable not run inside walls? This would rule out the coax inside the walls.

OE

OzarkEdge said:
Can you test with a temporary/healthy coax cable not run inside walls? This would rule out the coax inside the walls.

OE

As well as possible unknown splitters hiding somewhere, or connections to the cable plant that you're not aware of (i.e. you think it is a dedicated run but it isn't really).

mobidutch said:
I am experiencing occasional hiccups / freezes during conference calls with my home network over MoCA.

I live in an apartment building that provides Gigabit Internet. It has a wireless access point in each unit (IBT U6-IW-US) with 4x GbE RJ45 ports. I am getting 925Mbps up and down over wired connections to my laptop, versus around 350Mbps over wireless. So obviously, a wired connection has my preference.

I decided to utilize the coax outlets in the apartment for a wired connection to my home office desk with 2x Motorola MM1025 MoCA 2.5 adapters, like this:

IBT Access Point - MoCA Adapter - Coax outlet - Coax cable behind walls - Coax connector - Coax cable behind walls - Coax outlet by desk - MoCA Adapter - Computer

All other coax outlets, including the 'incoming coax cable' from TV/Internet provider are disconnected. Also, I exclusively use CAT8 ethernet cables.

When I disable WiFi on my laptop and connect directly to the MoCa adapter, I am getting the 925Mbps speeds, but am occasionally experiencing hiccups. These hiccups do NOT happen when I connect directly to the access point (either wired or wirelessly).

What could be causing this? Thank you for reading...
Click to expand...

In addition to what OE said when you're connected directly run a continuous ping and see if you're seeing latency spikes or packet loss. If so you at least have an explanation. If it happens with a known good piece of coax, then it is an issue with the adapters. If not, then something in your wall, or one of your couplers/connectors, etc.

Of course there is always the potential that it is totally unrelated to MOCA and your laptop just needs driver update or a better wired adapter. Also test a direct connection to their AP with just ethernet. If you still have the problem then either their AP has an issue or your laptop does.

I guess I sort of put that backwards. Start with a direct ethernet test to their AP. If all is good, test with a known good piece of coax and your moca adapters, so on and so forth.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: New to MoCA, no clue what I'm doing. Trying to make my first MoCA network.

I would like to make a MoCA network that connects my Tablo (in the basement - rec room) to the router upstairs (M1 red line) and connect an access point in the living room (AP2) to the upstairs router (M3 yellow line) but I have no clue what parts to get or how to set it up. I was told to get the MoCA 2.5 adapters, so I might get this.... ScreenBeam MoCA 2.5 Network Adapter for Higher Speed Internet, Ethernet Over Coax - Starter Kit (Model: ECB6250K02). To join the coax from the room with the router, to the living room coax line, I would use this... VCE Coaxial Cable Connector, RG6 Coax Cable Extender F-Type Gold Plated Adapter Female to Female for TV Cables,2 Pack. I don't think I'll need a filter because the main cable line to the modem I won't even be touching, as it and the coax to the Tablo will be isolated. Any help would be greatly appreacted, and try to keep it very simple, just list the parts and say... just use this.

[Assistant]
Or would I be better off and get a Mesh system and connect it to my main router and place a node in the basement for the Tablo and another node in the living room?
I've learned that a WiFi extender is bad because they'll cut the speed down in half.

If i understand your sketch correctly =

Red and Yellow are isolated runs of coax - correct ?

Green is ethernet ?

What is blue ? Is this an OTA TV signal to each TV through existing coax ?
What is a TABLO - is it a TV signal converter to digital (ethernet) box for streaming from an antenna ?

What is the mess in the snip below where all the colors meet supposed to be - it looks like ethernet, 2 coax cables, and ?
What is it you want to do ?

If what i assume above is correct, and you do not need to send OTA TV signal across the coax in the house, then simplest and highest bandwidth solution is 2 pairs of MOCA 2.5 modems (one for RED, one for yellow), a 5 port gigabit unmanaged switch ( for the snip above),.
If you need ethernet to TV3, then just add another pair of moca 2.5 modems.

If you need to send TV signal over the coax that MOCA is using, you will need to select MOCA modems with a separate coax port for TV signal. Actiontec 6200 moca2 modems are an example. Many of the MOCA 2.5 modems DO NOT HAVE this feature. You can use a moca2 rated splitter just ahead of the moca modem if you need to send TV signal to the TV on a separate piece of coax instead of using a moca modem with a built in diplexer.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: 'Simple' MoCa Set up not working, need help

I am new at MoCa and have limited networking expertise but hoping I would use MoCa to provide wired ethernet connectivity to several devices in another room. Unfortunately, I am running into an issue.

Set up as follows:

ATT Fiber ONT 1Gb)>ATT Fiber Modem>Unifi Router>Unifi Network Switch>MoCa Adapter to CoAx Cable end in network closet>At other end: CoAx to MoCa Adapter> Small network switch>Devices needing a wired network

I am thinking this should work!

Issue is that I have tried two different brands of adapters (ScreenBeam Bonded 2.5 and GoCoAx 2.5) and the speed is barely 75-80 Mbps, in fact slower than WiFi at devices. At other wired network locations around the house (non MoCa) the speeds are as expected (~1Gb), so the issue is not the fiber, modem, router or switch.

I tried the following:
- changed ports in the main switch where first adapter connects
- took small network switch in the remote location out and directly connected MoCa adapter to single devices-same slow speed and poor internet connectivity
- tested adapters by using a different CoAx cable that goes to another location in the house-MoCa worked reasonably well (speeds near 900 Mbps)

The CoAx outlet in the desired location is behind a heavy cabinet. From the outlet I am using an existing short CoAx cable to the MoCa adapter.

My impression is that either: 1. the CoAx cable between the adapters behind the wall is bad, 2. the short CoAx cable from the wall to the second MoCa adapter is bad, or 3. the female to female CoAx coupler in the wall outlet is bad. Any other thoughts?

Any suggestions as to testing before going thru the trouble of moving the cabinet to access CoAx outlet.

Any tips for directly testing the CoAx behind wall?

Many thanks.

[Assistant]
Are there any old splitters in the coax run ?

Otherwise, maybe a bad termination of coax on either end - look for hair size wire wisker in the terminated end. You should see foam coming through the connecter with the center conducter and no wire wiskers. It is also possible the coax is severely bent or stapled somewhere in the wall.

What is the label on the in wall coax ? RG59 or RG6 ? It may be embossed into the outer jacket or printed on the outer jacket.
How old is the coax in the wall ?
Was it working before ? What was it used for ?

When you have the GoCoax moca modems hooked up, what do the diagnostic pages report for sync rate, power, etc.

Many thanks for willingness to help.

No splitters in the run, this was a dedicated run, thus planning to use it for network now.

In the past the line was used for cable TV (never an issue). The house is 20 yrs old. x

The wire is RG6, it is 18AWG, fat cable, hoping it is not an acute bent or staple.

At the present I can only examine one end (the one in the network closet). It looks perfect. It was reterminated by the cable company and it seems to have a relatively new terminal. Behind cabinet, at this point I can't tell.

Lastly, on the management web pages, see picts. Not sure if I am missing something asked for.

Thanks.

The moca modems are synced at moca 2.5 speed, no dropped packets. Suggests the issue is elsewhere.
What are you using to speed test across the moca link ?

When you tested using another coax run -
"- tested adapters by using a different CoAx cable that goes to another location in the house-MoCa worked reasonably well (speeds near 900 Mbps)"

what was different between this physical setup and the original setup ?


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Help with building my MoCA network

Hello, I have dsl from AT&T which is very slow by today's standards. I'm thinking about subscribing to xfinity internet from Comcast because my father refuses to let AT&T drill a hole in our wall to get fiber. For now I think I'm going to get the 400 mbps down 10 mbps upload package they offer.

There is one room in my house which is a complete wifi deadspot because it has a cinder wall dividing it from the rest of the house. Right now I use powerline adapters to get an ethernet connection to said room.

I'm thinking about upgrading to MoCA adapters once I get the new internet because I fear that powerline isn't gonna cut it.

Please look at the diagram of my house I have attached to this post. (I'm sorry if it's bad I tried my best)

My confusion is that when I see most people's coax setup it goes...
Point of entry (coax) > 2 way splitter (one end goes to modem other one goes to amplifier)

On my house currently the point of entry goes straight into the amplifier as you can see in the diagram. Would the modem still work even though it's going through the amplifier and the passthrough on the MoCA? Also generally does the diagram look like everything would work okay?

I just looked today and all the coax cables running through my house are RG6.

If I was to do this setup I would just need to buy 2 splitters, 1 amplifier, and the point of entry MoCA filter. (currently have non moca splitters/amplifiers set up)

Modem I'm looking at is Motorola MB7621.
The router I want to buy is the google wifi one that comes with 3 router puck things. I am aware that most of you on this forum are not the target audience for this router but it seems pretty neat to me. (open to other suggestions)
I am also aware that only one of the routers needs to be plugged into your modem while the other 2 pucks can be wireless. However I want the one in the deadspot room to be wired so I think I'm just gonna wire up all of them to get the most speed.

Thanks!

[Assistant]
redski said:
because my father refuses to let AT&T drill a hole in our wall to get fiber.
Would changing the location of said hole influence his decision? What if the hole and associated gear were at the central junction, rather than into a finished room?

As for the suggested setup for cable Internet, what is the purpose of the amplifier? Would you also have cable TV service or just Internet via the cable provider? If just Internet, you might consider moving the modem and main router to the central junction, to minimize the need for amplification and to isolate the DOCSIS signals from the MoCA-infused coax plant, future-proofing for DOCSIS 3.1 and on. (An amplifier has no value relative to MoCA signals, since MoCA offers its own automatic power adjustment.)

Re: choice of splitters... satellite service (950-2150 MHz) prefers high output port isolation, while retail MoCA adapters (Ext band D, 1125-1675 MHz) prefer lower output port isolation ... so a given splitter can’t be optimized for both satellite and retail MoCA (band D). The choice isn’t as critical in small, simple setups with a “PoE” MoCA filter properly installed, but grows in importance with coax complexity.

krkaufman said:
Would changing the location of said hole influence his decision? What if the hole and associated gear were at the central junction, rather than into a finished room?

As for the suggested setup for cable Internet, what is the purpose of the amplifier? Would you also have cable TV service or just Internet via the cable provider? If just Internet, you might consider moving the modem and main router to the central junction, to minimize the need for amplification and to isolate the DOCSIS signals from the MoCA-infused coax plant, future-proofing for DOCSIS 3.1 and on. (An amplifier has no value relative to MoCA signals, since MoCA offers its own automatic power adjustment.)

Re: choice of splitters... satellite service (950-2150 MHz) prefers high output port isolation, while retail MoCA adapters (Ext band D, 1125-1675 MHz) prefer lower output port isolation ... so a given splitter can’t be optimized for both satellite and retail MoCA (band D). The choice isn’t as critical in small, simple setups with a “PoE” MoCA filter properly installed, but grows in importance with coax complexity.
Click to expand...

No my dad is pretty stubborn about stuff like this so cable internet it is.

I kind of just assumed you needed an amp because that is how my house is wired up currently, I don't have cable tv anymore the only signal that would be coming through would be xfinity internet.

I kind of like the place where the modem would be in the diagram for convenience purposes so would it still work? I understand it would be better at the central junction but everything is wired really nicely already. The current amp says "radio shack bi directional cable amplifier" so it's probably really old and I wasn't sure if it could work with MoCA.

Regarding splitters I was gonna buy these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113JAN8K/?tag=snbforums-20

and this filter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KO5KHSQ/?tag=snbforums-20

krkaufman said:
Would changing the location of said hole influence his decision? What if the hole and associated gear were at the central junction, rather than into a finished room?

As for the suggested setup for cable Internet, what is the purpose of the amplifier? Would you also have cable TV service or just Internet via the cable provider? If just Internet, you might consider moving the modem and main router to the central junction, to minimize the need for amplification and to isolate the DOCSIS signals from the MoCA-infused coax plant, future-proofing for DOCSIS 3.1 and on. (An amplifier has no value relative to MoCA signals, since MoCA offers its own automatic power adjustment.)

Re: choice of splitters... satellite service (950-2150 MHz) prefers high output port isolation, while retail MoCA adapters (Ext band D, 1125-1675 MHz) prefer lower output port isolation ... so a given splitter can’t be optimized for both satellite and retail MoCA (band D). The choice isn’t as critical in small, simple setups with a “PoE” MoCA filter properly installed, but grows in importance with coax complexity.
Click to expand...
if the amp isn't required should I just replace it with a 5 port MoCA splitter?


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: 2.5 moca extension

When I bought my house the satellite tv antenna was mounted on the roof of a detached garage with RG6 quad shield cable going to the receiver underground to the house. I didn't use the dish so I repurposed the cable for MoCa 1.0 protocol to get network connectivity to the garage. So I have on adaptor near my switch in the house and another in the garage, works as it should. I added a forth bay on the detached garage and additional out building which I would like to add network connectivity to both and at the same time upgrade to MoCa 2.5. The added sections I plan to use RG11 and daisy chain from original location in the garage. Can that be done or do they have to be all home runs to the original garage location?

[Assistant]
daisy chain using a moca 2 rated splitter is one way. Other way is to do point to point dedicated coax runs and using a Gbit switch to connect the moca modems to the same ethernet. Requires one more modem and a switch instead of a 3+ port splitter.
Upgrading is just changing out the modems if you want all nodes to have same speed possible.

Is the power in the existing garage and the new out buildings fed off of the same breaker panel or do the out buildings have a sub panel with separate earth/ground rod ?

I will go ahead source and get the MoCa 2 rated two way splitters and try that. Each location has it's own panel and ground one building has it's own electrical service on a different distribution transformer. The new building will have the RG11 routed from the existing garage underground through the basement of a rental house on the property and then underground to the new building only because the path is available. I want connectivity to the new building for environment monitoring, mesh wifi, security lighting switch control, 3 or more Hi Res IP PTZ's. Maybe long term run 10g fiber.

You are likely to get a ground loop then if both ends are earthed through the power supply and cable. shielding. Shields should only be earthed in one location for each cable run. No easy way to tell how severe and it will change with soil conditions. i would jump directly to fiber and forget MOCA. Pick a fiber spec that will work with your current equipment (at least Gbit/s) and leave a pull cord in the conduit in case you want to replace the fiber sometime in the future. ATT's fiber drops are designed for aerial so they have a support wire and are easy to pull without damage. Fiber does not like to be stressed when pulling so use long radius ells (radius >> bend radius limit for the fiber cable) or two 45 ells to make any turns.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Single unused cable as MOCA point-point entry from fiber

I've tried to find a direct answer to the question but have failed. I have a relatively new home (4 years) and 1Gbps fiber has recently been run to my home. I only have external RG6 coax entry points to the home where they all terminate in a network panel. If I have an entirely unused coax cable with no splices or splitters in it that runs into my home, would MOCA 2.5 adapters on both ends allow me to create the bridge to my router and use the full 1Gbps data of the fiber connection?

[Assistant]
movin4steve said:
I've tried to find a direct answer to the question but have failed. I have a relatively new home (4 years) and 1Gbps fiber has recently been run to my home. I only have external RG6 coax entry points to the home where they all terminate in a network panel. If I have an entirely unused coax cable with no splices or splitters in it that runs into my home, would MOCA 2.5 adapters on both ends allow me to create the bridge to my router and use the full 1Gbps data of the fiber connection?
Click to expand...

movin4steve said:
View attachment 57516
What you propose should work. However since you don't need/plan to run CATV video over the 30' RG6 cable you should also look at an Ethernet over coaxial cable adapter as another option. I can't tell you it will work better than MOCA but since it doesn't have to share frequencies with CATV it might.

CaptainSTX said:
What you propose should work. However since you don't need/plan to run CATV video over the 30' RG6 cable you should also look at an Ethernet over coaxial cable adapter as another option.

Is that actually a distinct thing from MoCA? I googled the phrase just now and what I found was MoCA adapters ... well, also a few sub-Gbps solutions that might or might not be MoCA-compatible, but surely aren't competitive anyway.

I am using MoCA 2.5 in one place in my house, and it works moderately well, but it has strange compatibility issues: depending on what gear I connect, I may or may not be able to get better than 1Gbps throughput from it. I'd be interested to know of alternatives if there really are some.