[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Solved Mysterious Clients

My router is an Asus RT-AC3100. Recently we've added a lot of devices to our home network. Two new wireless clients have appeared. One is: audiocast the other is: espressif. I've been wondering what their source is. (smartphones apps?) I did spend some time looking at audiocast but didn't find anything. The Asus router seem unaffected by these unknown wireless clients. I just blocked these clients from accessing the internet. See if anything happens. Anyway to figure-out the source of these wireless clients?

[Assistant]
Turn off all of your IOT devices and add them back one at a time until those names show up.

degrub said:
Turn off all of your IOT devices and add them back one at a time until those names show up.
Already tried that with audiocast. Could not discern any underlying program (app).
Good news with espressif. I recently bought an internet radio. It stopped working when I blocked espressif from accessing internet right after my first post. Internet radio back to working now.

Some progress with audiocast. Installed Nmap from the Linux Mint repository. Results below. Evidently LG Innotek is an LG product. We do have an LG TV which we have had for years before audiocast showed-up.
Nmap scan report for audiocast.Stargate (192.168.50.177)
Host is up (0.058s latency).
MAC Address: DC:03:98:7F:B8:AE (LG Innotek)
The article below is crap, but haven't found a better one.
Uncovering What LG Innotek Is: A Comprehensive Guide to Finding It On Your Network
Discover the answer to the question: What is LG Innotek on my network? Learn about this technology provider that offers advanced components for networks, computers, and TV displays. Explore what LG Innotek can do to provide high-quality performance and reliability in today's digital world.
solidarity-project.org

What to do when an unknown device is connecting to your Wi-Fi
Here’s how to work out what an unknown device is on your network and how to prevent it from connecting to your router.
www.techadvisor.com

Will still periodically continue to look into this.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: IP camera network design - VLAN, NICs, etc

I'm just starting to think about how to configure my network ip cameras and would welcome suggestions.

My current constellation:
Gateway/Router: Asus RT AC68U running Merlin
Main switch: Netgear ProSafe GS748T V5
Server: X11SM-F with two onboard NICs. Proxmox hypervisor.

I have a Netgear Smart GS724TPv2 Gig Switch which can be dedicated to the IP cameras.

I'm planning on installing zoneminder or frigate as a VM on my server because I don't want to buy/power yet another box.
I will want to be able to access the camera feeds when I'm away from the house, but am happy to vpn into my router to appear as though I'm on the local network.
This is in a home environment.
I want something that is sensibly secure.

Should I be thinking about a VLAN for the cameras? Would zoneminder/frigate go in that same VLAN? Would that involve dedicating one of my physical NICs on my server for the Zoneminder/frigate VM?

[Assistant]
el_pedr0 said:
I'm just starting to think about how to configure my network ip cameras and would welcome suggestions.

My current constellation:
Gateway/Router: Asus RT AC68U running Merlin
Main switch: Netgear ProSafe GS748T V5
Server: X11SM-F with two onboard NICs. Proxmox hypervisor.

I have a Netgear Smart GS724TPv2 Gig Switch which can be dedicated to the IP cameras.

I'm planning on installing zoneminder or frigate as a VM on my server because I don't want to buy/power yet another box.
I will want to be able to access the camera feeds when I'm away from the house, but am happy to vpn into my router to appear as though I'm on the local network.
This is in a home environment.
I want something that is sensibly secure.

Should I be thinking about a VLAN for the cameras? Would zoneminder/frigate go in that same VLAN? Would that involve dedicating one of my physical NICs on my server for the Zoneminder/frigate VM?
Click to expand...
You can do a VLAN for the cams if you want to isolate them but it really is not necessary. Bandwidth wise if the cams are on the same switch as the NVR all the cam traffic will be within the switch. I would keep it simple. I have a Netgear PoE switch running my cams all which have static IP addresses. My Debian 12 server running Zoneminder is connected to the same switch and all are on a UPS. If I have to fiddle with the router the cams can still record to Zoneminder. I also have micro SD cards in my cams that record motion just in case. I am messing with, or testing, Zoneminder installs.
As for outside the LAN checking the recordings you basically have two options: port forward (I used port 443) to Apache/Zoneminder or VPN in through the router. I have used both but the VPN route is more secure.
PM me if you have any questions about Zoneminder. I've been involved with that group for some time now.

Thanks for the reply - I likely will take you up on your zoneminder offer at some point.

I've just had another realisation: Two of my cameras are on the outside and are wired. So my ethernet cable is technically accessible. Maybe that alone makes VLAN the right way to go? (Not that I can really envisage someone going to the effort of cutting and replugging the cable to gain access to my network!)


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Xfinity Gigabit x2 Plan and ASUS RT-AX86U

Greetings all,

While I wait to get an Xfinity tech who knows what they are going, I figured I would go ahead and post something here...

Here's the Situation.

- I had Xfinity 1G service for a while. Was getting about 900M - 1G bps average down and 41.4Mbps up...fairly consistently. This while using my own Arris S33 Modem, and the ASUS RT-AX86U (running ASUSWRT-Merlin), connected with 2.5G port on both.
- Got an offer to switch to the Gigabit X2, which promised up to 2G bps down and 250 Mbps up
-After going round and round with Xfinity support...I found out the Arris S33 modem will NOT work with the UP speed and would need to get one of their Xfinity Gateways.
-Bit the bullet and decided to rent their latest version...The XB8 Gateway. I setup the Gateway in Bridge mode...so I can still use my ASUS Router . (I have a mesh network with other ASUS routers throughout my house).
- Got it all setup and activated and starting seeing 900M to 1G bps down and 235 Mbps up. Hmmm... Why is the DOWN speed still low???
-Found out the XB8 has a 2.5G port that I should be using to connect to my ASUS RT-AX86U 2.5G port. Let me give that a try.
-Modem Shows port is 2500Mbps and Router shows "eth0 (Int switch port: 3) (Logical Port: 3) (phyId: 1e) Link Up at 2500 mbps full duplex". COOL....that should work!!! NOT!!!
-Actually...with my router connected to the 2.5G Xfinity modem port, I'm getting SLOWER speeds then when I have the router connected to the 1G Xfinity Modem Ports.

You can see below (from spdMerlin on my router), where I switched service with Xfinity. Upload (Green) jumps up...and download is less than I had previously.
Then I switched to the 2.5G port on the Xfinity gateway...and you can see the dip in the download...to around 600 Mbps. Then I put it back to the 1G port..and it jumps back up to 900+ Mbps.

WTF.... Any ideas???

[Assistant]
What do you get if you take the modem/router out of bridge mode while keeping the same physical connections ?
And, btw, use a PC with a 2.5 Gbit/s NIC to test direct connected to the Xfinity equipment, not the router so you don't run into router limitations.

degrub said:
What do you get if you take the modem/router out of bridge mode while keeping the same physical connections ?
And, btw, use a PC with a 2.5 Gbit/s NIC to test direct connected to the Xfinity equipment, not the router so you don't run into router limitations.

Yea...I'm gonna play with that to see if it's a limitation of the Bridge mode. I just don't want to use the Router portion of the gateway. I like my ASUS RT-AX86U and have mesh configured throughout my house. I just ordered a 2.5G ethernet adapter to check out the connection without the router.

UPDATE: Was chatting with a Xfinity Tech who claims he was able to get 1976Mbps to my XB8. So WHY does my router seems to be stuck at around 1G or less? I just ordered a 2.5G ethernet adapter to test without the Router. Kinda have a feeling it's going to work....then I'm stuck wondering what is up with my RT-AX86U and the 2.5G WAN port..


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: in-addr.arpa: NXDOMAIN

How can I fix this in my network?

** server can't find 17.0.168.192.in-addr.arpa: NXDOMAIN

I can ping all clients but nslookup produces th above error.

Thanks

[Assistant]
It just means there's no known domain name associated w/ that public IP address. Nothing requires ALL public IPs to be associated w/ a domain name. So getting NXDOMAIN as a result is NOT really an error. If it bothers you, you can simply ignore it as follows.

Code:
nslookup 17.0.168.192 2>/dev/null

@eibgrad's reply is not quite correct.

Your output is a reverse DNS lookup for IP address 192.168.0.17. But your DNS server doesn't have an entry for that.

That usually means that your DNS server is not setup correctly. But without knowing much more about your DNS environment I can't speculate further.

ColinTaylor said:
@eibgrad's reply is not quite correct.

Your output is a reverse DNS lookup for IP address 192.168.0.17. But your DNS server doesn't have an entry for that.

That usually means that your DNS server is not setup correctly. But without knowing much more about your DNS environment I can't speculate further.
Click to expand...
I just have asus router then a RPi running dns and adguardhome.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Having random, but mostly small issues with internet connection. - Cox

Hey guys, been having som random issues with my internet connection over the past few months. I'm going to list the issues / troubleshooting I've done to help readers have a better idea of what's going on.

I pay for Cox 1G plan. Initially I had their panoramic gateway, and started having issues with that.
So, I gave them back their gateway, and bought an ARRIS S33, to completely separate the modem and router (even though I had the gateway in bridge mode). Also wanted to completely get rid of the modem rental fee.

After having cox out about 5 times, it seems like everything outside is fine, and one of the techs did replace the F connector in the wall jack I use as it had tarnished with age.
For a while things were fine, and then I noticed I would start losing download speeds slowly after a couple weeks. Not huge drops, but more than just normal peek times, and there were never issues reported in the cox app of problems, maintenance, etc.

So, I bought a new coaxial cable on Amazon, and I get really good speeds with it, and then i saw the slight drop after come time connected. So, I took out the F connector from the Tech, and put the one in the jack that came with my cable since I knew it was new and fresh.
That's been stable and then yesterday the internet connection completely dropped and I had to power cycle the modem to get it back and it's been fine since.

Here is where I'm at in my troubleshooting:
I don't think it's a modem issue as Cox has always been able to confirm network signal issues (over their network) and once addressed signal has returned to normal and the modem hasn't missed a beat.
I have noticed that I've had to reboot the router (Asus RT-AX86U) latest stock firmware a few times to get back up to my normal speeds. So wondering if possible incompatibility with modem and router. Have a Tp-link router I could swap in to test that possibility.

Also wondering Cox increasing their upload speeds to 100Mbps is also stressing the modem. I ask because the S34, is said to be compatible with Xfinity's next gen upload speeds while the S33 isn't. I know Cox and Comcast are two separate companies, and as stated the upload speeds from cox do work with the S33. Just wondering if there would be a reason to get the other modem at this point because of the higher uploads, even though working are pushing the modem too hard.

So pretty much after doing my research, talking to Cox, having them out, replacing the coax cable / jack connector, etc. Here is where I'm at, and what I'm bring to this community.

Line issues
Modem / Router incompatibility, or an older modem trying to handle upload speeds it was never intended to.

I've used all the resources I have to try and stabilize the problem(s).

Thanks for any feedback, or suggestions.

EDIT: I have disconnected the RT-AX86U and have switched in the TP-Link Archer AX4400 just to rule out Router / modem, or router related issues. So far things are stable. I had configured the TP-Link with all applicable settings that would be able to be set the same as the Asus in the event it would be easier to troubleshoot in case of issues. Both routers are on the latest firmware from earlier this year.

[Assistant]
Sounds like your modem is fine. If spec'd for 100 Mbit/s up, then no issue.
Many times power blips can cause issues. Ultimately causing failure. Lightning strikes nearby can cause issues months later.
Is the modem, router, switch, etc on a UPS ? If not, is it at least on a good quality surge protector ?
Power bricks can degrade and cause weird issues on electronic gear. They can be replaced on the ASUS. Sometimes, you just get a flaky router. If you start seeing frequent reports of router issues for a particular model that are cured by a power cycle or reset, then count your stars if yours doesn't , but you may have to change to a different model if issues start.

degrub said:
Sounds like your modem is fine. If spec'd for 100 Mbit/s up, then no issue.
Many times power blips can cause issues. Ultimately causing failure. Lightning strikes nearby can cause issues months later.
Is the modem, router, switch, etc on a UPS ? If not, is it at least on a good quality surge protector ?
Power bricks can degrade and cause weird issues on electronic gear. They can be replaced on the ASUS. Sometimes, you just get a flaky router. If you start seeing frequent reports of router issues for a particular model that are cured by a power cycle or reset, then count your stars if yours doesn't , but you may have to change to a different model if issues start.
Click to expand...
Hi, the modem / router are on a UPS, the modem is brand mew within the last couple months. The Router(S) are older with in a few years. Probably 3 or 4 years old ballpark. As far as the switch, I do have an 8 port switch for devices in the bedroom, and that's on a decent surge protector as it doesn't need to stay on if the power goes out. I was asking about the modem because right now according to ARRIS the only difference between the S33 (my modem) and the S34, is the S34 is compatible with Comcast /Xfinity's next gen upload speeds. While Cox (my provider) recently upgraded their 1 and 2 G plans to 100 Mbps uploads, there has been no mention of having to buy a new modem to be compatible. So since the S33 does give me the 100 Mbps upload (about 114/115). I'm going to call it as supported. However, I thought it also a good idea to ask, because since switching to owning my own modem, I've heard more and more, that just because a modem says it's supported, doesn't always mean it's fully supported. So, power protection is good here in terms of being covered outside the extreme that no one has control over.

iFrogMac said:
Not huge drops, but more than just normal peek times, and there were never issues reported in the cox app of problems, maintenance, etc.

Residential lines are not guaranteed, but shared between number of subscribers. The advertised plan speed is "up to" with some ISPs doing overprovisioning to get closer. Speed test servers load varies, also not guaranteed accurate measuring tool. My own residential line is up to 1000/50 and measures 600-990/50 in different hours of the day to different test servers. It works well and as expected in my understanding.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Omnidirectional WAP

I have a couple of Unifi wireless access points. Because of the low ceilings in my upstairs, the beam is too narrow with them being ceiling mounted. I'm looking for an omnidirectional wAP not unlike the Google units that come with Google Fiber. I believe theirs is a mesh. Unfortunately, I don't understand mesh systems well enough yet, and maybe that's what I need, but for my immediate use, a non-directional WAP would solve an immediate issue. What can you recommend that is not Netgear? Thanks.

[Assistant]
Glom said:
the beam is too narrow

It can't be too narrow because the antennas inside most common UniFi APs are low gain.
https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/115005212927-AP-Antenna-Radiation-Patterns

I'm using U6 Mesh APs and they are listed as omnidirectional with 3dBi on 2.4GHz and 5dBi on 5GHz band. Can be mounted on the ceiling, on the wall/pole or sit on top of a shelf/desk. Wall/pole mounting hardware as well as desktop stand are included, ceiling mount hardware is sold separately.

"U6 Mesh" is the model number, see https://techspecs.ui.com/unifi/wifi/u6-mesh. That seems like a good choice if the OP wants to stay in the UniFi ecosystem.

tgl said:
"U6 Mesh" is the model number

This is what I have. We don't know what @Glom has.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Switch from Cable WAN to Fiber WAN

I'm thinking about switching from Spectrum cable WAN to Frontier DSL/Fiber WAN. Any pros/cons? Spectrum is a pia and their cost is more but signal is stable. I've read Fiber is different technology and I may have to run an ethernet line from ONT to router(?). Currently have house wired with cable, including MoCA with a couple of filters for signal noise. Do I have to run Ethernet from ONT/box outside connection to router on second floor or can I use existing cable infrastructure? When I spoke to Frontier they weren't big on my personal router and wanted to provide eero mesh. I already have my own ASUS AiMesh (GT-AX6000 main, RT-AX58U node). How do I connect to my GT-AX6000 wireless router to ONT? Any help/suggestions would be appreciated. tia

[Assistant]
BeachGuy said:
I'm thinking about switching from Spectrum cable WAN to Frontier DSL/Fiber WAN. Any pros/cons? Spectrum is a pia and their cost is more but signal is stable. I've read Fiber is different technology and may have to run ethernet line from ONT to router. Currently have house wired with cable, including MoCA with a couple of filters for signal noise. Do I have to run Ethernet from ONT/box outside connection to router on second floor or can I use existing cable infrastructure? When I spoke to Frontier they weren't big on my personal router and wanted to provide eero mesh. I already have my own ASUS AiMesh (GT-AX6000 main, RT-AX58U node). How do I connect to my GT-AX6000 wireless router to ONT? Any help/suggestions would be appreciated. tia
Click to expand...

The fiber ISP will likely install an ONT with small battery backup plugged into your building AC power (typically requires the ONT to be mounted inside the building near an AC wall outlet). You then run Ethernet from the ONT to your router WAN.

fiber ISP <fiber> ONT w/battery backup on AC power <Ethernet> router

You can try a MoCA segment within the Ethernet WAN segment, but any trouble with it will affect the router's WAN connection and your entire LAN. I would use and confirm stable performance of the new fiber service first (for days) before adding MoCA to allow relocating the router... but ideally, run an Ethernet cable for the WAN connection, if you can, and leave MoCA out of it.

Fiber ISPs seem to like poking fiber through whatever wall of the building that will make it easist for them in all repects... like right into the living room behind the media center and near a wall outlet and where the router will be located (if they can get away with it on less expensive/average homes). Then they want to lease you their wireless mesh network equipment that can be easily deployed throughout the home. To do otherwise, have a prepared plan for the installer and keep it as simple/agreeable/do-able as possible.

I would keep your cable service until you are satisfied with the new fiber service.

OE

Thanks. Years ago Verizon (became Frontier) installed an ONT in our garage but we never subscribed to their service. I don't know if it's still viable but that's where they'll probably put it. I was wondering if I can hook up the ONT to the existing cable and have MoCA capture the signal to the router (maybe wishful thinking?)? Otherwise I'll have to run ethernet from ONT in garage to 2nd floor office.

i have ATT Gbit fiber. ONT on inside cabinet. GoCoax moca2.5 across dedicated RG6 to my wiring closet upstairs which has the ATT router. No issues. MOCA is an ethernet extender - just over coax instead of twisted pair. You know, ethernet used to be exclusively coax - big round yellow cable with vampire taps and transceivers to go to clients ?


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: schedule internet

sd Hello, Is there a way to set a internet access schedule [per device] with the unifi usg pro4?

[Assistant] You'd probably be better off asking that on Ubiquiti's forums, community.ui.com. Lots more expertise about UniFi over there than there is here.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: HP COLOR LASER MFP M283FDW WI-FI CONNECTIVITY UNSTABLE

I am having connectivity stability issues with my HP MFP M283FDW while using a wi-fi connection. I have reset the network settings and re-entered the SSID of my 2.4ghz band of my ASUS RT-AX82U router.

The printer shows it has a good connection to the network, but my computer’s HP Smart app is having trouble seeing it. I pinged it and it loses between 40-100% of the packets, depending on its “mood” that testing day.

On the attachment, you can see where the HP Smart app cycles between connected & disconnected.

I have used this printer wirelessly for 4 years with the HP SMART software and wi-fi connection without problems. Recently, I swapped my Netgear router for an ASUS. Since this is a new issue, I’m wondering if it could be the RT-AX82U router’s Firewall settings. I also thought it could be Windows Security Firewall settings, but the printer worked fine until the router swap.

I can order a USB-B cable and hook it directly to the router, but the firewall might still be a problem.

I am new to networking and know just enough to be dangerous in the rabbit-hole of this gaming router’s vast settings, so any tips are appreciated.

[Assistant]
Connect a LAN cable between the router and the printer. Assign a fixed IP address in the printer network config. Reserve that address in the ASUS. i think it uses the MAC id of the printer as well but i have not done this on ASUS in a few years. The IP address needs to be outside of the range used by the DHCP server.
You should be able to set it up as an IP printer as minimum. Windows should be able to find it and load the correct drivers.

It sounds like there is too much interference on the 2.4GHz band or too much power.

If you connect it by USB to the router, i think you loose all of the features except basic print and possibly scan. The router likely uses Linix LP printer drivers and maybe the scan driver. AIOs generally have not worked well.

Have your tried the HP support pages for poor wifi stability ?

This may help:

[Wireless Router] How to improve compatibility of IoT device with ASUS WiFi 6(802.11 ax) router? | Official Support | ASUS Canada

Make sure you are using the most up-to-date version of HP Smart. On older versions, it can do this horrible thing of storing local IP addresses for the printer rather than using the device name or MAC based ID. Do anything that changes the local IP of the printer, and things used to go wrong.
If you find that the version of HP Smart you are using is "old", then the radical fix is to back the machine up, uninstall smart, and remove any remaining printers from control panel that reference the printer - old versions of Smart will install both a Smart printer device and a conventional printer device. Reboot and reinstall the latest version of Smart and add the printer back - this time you'll have only the Smart printer device.
* On Windows 10 and earlier, you can sometimes fix the issue by statically or manually assigning the IP address of the printer to what it used to be when using the old router.
** Off to check that HP hasn't reintroduced the print by email bug - if they have I|'ll post a followup!


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Honeywell REDLINK gateway problem - some additional info

Hey everybody. I am one of the many unfortunate individuals that experiences ongoing problems with the Honeywell REDLINK gateway (THM6000R7001) where we periodically experience the disconnection of the ethernet port, which causes the Internet LED on the gateway to go into an amber condition. I don't have a fix to the problem, but I definitely have some details regarding how this condition occurs. So I thought I'd throw this info out here to the community to see if it stirs up any useful information.

I fully believe these ongoing problems with this product are inherent to the gateway itself, and not the networks they are used upon. I'm a lifelong technician engineer in the IT circles so these sorts of problems are nothing new to me. My network and its peripherals are pristine in execution and configuration and have been manicured over over many years. Regarding the problems with the Honeywell REDLINK gateway, it really makes no difference what network gear is used or how sophisticated or not the network may be - the problem can manifest itself on just about any sort of network layout.

First, a little bit about the condition. We will often see the problem occur out of the blue. We'll try to change our thermostat settings remotely via the Honeywell Total Connect Comfort app on our phones or PC and encounter a message that the gateway is not responding. We'll then check our gateway and find that of the three LED's the Internet LED will be amber and the other two being green. Don't confuse amber with red - the Internet LED will be AMBER. This is supposed to indicate the gateway is trying to receive an IP address via DHCP from the network router. It will just sit there as a solid amber color forever. So we fiddle around with things and learn that if we power-cycle the gateway we'll see it go through the normal power up sequence which ends with the Internet LED blinking amber, followed by it turning solid green, meaning it successfully received an IP address from DHCP on the router. All's great and the problem is resolved, right? No so fast. This may or may not be the end of the problem. Some will experience the problem again, either soon afterwards, or maybe weeks or months later.

I've read so many reports and responses regarding this behavior across untold number of forums, yet there has NEVER been a resolution determined - NEVER. From changes to network configuration, to kluges like adding additional routers, to sniffing the network with WireShark or other apps/appliances.

So here I have a couple additional pieces of information to add to the mix that I've never read anywhere else regarding this problem. I guess I hope that this can be beneficial in our desire to finally expose the exact problem and maybe approach Honeywell for a definite fix. I have found a couple ways that this problem can be created that I've never seen reported before. The first is using a regular old network IP address scanner app like Angry IP Scanner to find devices on our networks. Angry is a long time useful program that our industry has used for over a decade in both professional and personal usage - it is well regarded and used probably by millions of users. It certainly is not the only program to scan networks for finding IP clients - there are dozens of others. So, go ahead and download Angry on you PC and run it. It will find most any device on your network. Watch what happens to your Honeywell REDLINK Gateway while running it. That Internet LED will go amber shortly after running a scan. It will stay amber until the gateway is power cycled. That LED will stay green until you run another scan. Go ahead and give it a try - you'll see the problem again and again. Okay, so here's another way I've learned will cause this problem as well. I run a security camera system on my network - Blue Iris network video recorder. It's a wonderful app. Mine is running eight cameras and it works flawlessly. My cameras happen to be wireless, yet this is trivial - wireless or wired does not matter. I have a ninth camera I've configured as a spare. I configure and confirm it works properly with my system, then I physically disconnect and set it aside for a rainy day if ever needed. If I leave the camera configured in Blue Iris without disabling it, Blue Iris will try and find it through the network periodically. Upon Blue Iris looking for it, this behavior will cause the Honeywell REDLINK gateway internet LED to go amber, and again, it will stay that way until the gateway is power cycled. A short time later it will go amber again, doing this over an over. If I go into Blue Iris and simply disable this camera configuration the problem will cease. So, obviously the action of Blue Iris looking for this camera on the network affects the Honeywell Internet gateway in a similar fashion as the Angry IP scanner app does, as detailed above. I can only imagine that there are many apps or appliances that interact with our networks in a similar fashion that would cause this issue with this Honeywell REDLINK Gateway as well.

It seems quite obvious that the Honeywell REDLINK Gateway is sensitive to probing of the network. I believe that there may be a correlation with the security features built into these gateways that causes this behavior. Honeywell is very cautious with this technology as they want to be certain it cannot be easily hacked as you can imagine the disaster a hacker could cause to corporate industries by being able manipulate and disturb their comfort control infrastructure. Realize that users cannot gain access to these gateways via nominal methods like a web based configuration utility. You can't give the gateway a static IP address. Sure, you can give it a fixed IP address via DHCP, but you can't gain access to the gateway directly in order to give it static IP.

So that's my additional observations. The fact that appliances and app's that scan our network will cause the dreaded amber Internet LED problem. Wish I could provide additional details, but this is all I can add at this time.

Thoughts or possible solutions? I'd welcome any ideas, as I'm sure others would as well.

[Assistant]
There was a lengthy thread about this device here: https://www.snbforums.com/threads/d...dlink-internet-gateway-happening-again.67157/

ColinTaylor said:
There was a lengthy thread about this device here: https://www.snbforums.com/threads/d...dlink-internet-gateway-happening-again.67157/
Fully read that thread, numerous times in the past. Whole lotta hair being pulled out in there for sure. Good info, yet no resolution whatsoever, unfortunately. And really no details about how to create the problem at-will. Hoping my post will lead to more of a substantial understanding of what is actually happening when the problem occurs. I feel that a individual that has EXECPTIONAL capabilities with WireShark or a dedicated sniffer appliance could understand and better detail this issue. That person is not me though. I'm only semi okay with WireShark and some Cisco appliances. I'm not confident that anybody outside of Honeywell engineers themselves with their inherent understanding of the gateway, and with exemplary ethernet sniffing abilities and understanding would be able to truly solve this problem.

I suspect no amount of troubleshooting will resolve this problem. The REDLINK is affectively a black box. It's behaviour can only be observed from the outside without any knowledge of what's happening inside.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Finally got my own Cable Modem

Hey all, finally decided to get my own cable modem to get rid of the rental fee, and since Cox supports bring your own. Since I didn't need anything fancy, and just wanted and needed something with the latest supported specs for a gigabit connection I settled on the ARRIS Surfboard S33:
ARRIS Surfboard DOCSIS 3.1 Multi-Gigabit Cable Modem with 2.5 Gbps Ethernet Port, Approved for Cox, Xfinity, Spectrum and Others, Wireless Technology - New Condition - Walmart.com
Buy ARRIS Surfboard DOCSIS 3.1 Multi-Gigabit Cable Modem with 2.5 Gbps Ethernet Port, Approved for Cox, Xfinity, Spectrum and Others, Wireless Technology - New Condition at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com

So far everything is flawless.

Also didn't want a gateway if i didn't have to keep it (even though I had it in bridge mode)

[Assistant]
Thought I would give an update. It's almost been 24 hours with the new modem. Everything seems to be working smoothly. The Modem is connected to an Asus RT-AX86U on the gigabit port. I may switch to the 2.5 gigabit port if, at some point I feel like it might benefit wireless speeds. The Arris is slightly slower than the Cox provided gateway, but I'm still in the gigabit ballpark. The Techno color gateway can do up to about 940 Mbps down and the Arris goes upt ot about 929 Mbps so far, and the upload is about the same. Might be a chipset difference. The connection is stable, and I have about a 5 to 10 ns ping according to speedtest.

If anyone has this modem, and I can tweak the speed a bit, let me know. However, the difference doesn't seem big enough to even be concerned about. I had considered a Netgear modem, but I actually like the small footprint of this one. I would have liked a full set of status lights, but the light it has is easy to tell what's going on, it's bright, and lights different colors based on status.

The Arris S33 is pretty decent - one of the better DOCSIS 3.1 modems out there...

I've got the predecessor - the SB8200 - I've only got 500/50 (no need for Gigablast here at the house).

There's nothing to tweak on the modem - performance looks good as it is with your 929 down... one could always do the 2.5Gbit port on the router side, but even there, on the 1Gb/Sec plan, there's not much difference...

sfx2000 said:
The Arris S33 is pretty decent - one of the better DOCSIS 3.1 modems out there...

I've got the predecessor - the SB8200 - I've only got 500/50 (no need for Gigablast here at the house).

There's nothing to tweak on the modem - performance looks good as it is with your 929 down... one could always do the 2.5Gbit port on the router side, but even there, on the 1Gb/Sec plan, there's not much difference...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, I've been happy with the performance over all. Cox is coming tomorrow to pick up their gateway. I was gifted a year of cox complete care after they came out to fix issues outside the apartment. So the tech will probably want to test my modem just to make sure it got set up right. I'm hoping this will also remove the modem rental fee from my bill once they pick up the gateway. The person I spoke to on the phone to activate the modem said the rental fee will be removed now that I'm using my own modem. The other thing is, I gave them the Serial and MAC before plugging the modem in, but it still connected no problems when I plugged it in.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Why is the ethernet speed on my phone faster than my laptop when they are plugged into the same network with the same cable?

Hi All,*

A couple of months ago, I was getting around 900 Mbps on my laptop but now it’s slowed down to less than half that. I have Fios 1 Gig. Nothing on the PC has changed. My phone gets 900 plugged into the same network with the same cable. If anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciat it. TIA

DELL XPS 15 9520

PRO: 12th Gen Intel Core i7-12700H 2.30 GHz
RAM: 32.0 GB
STO: 500 GB
SYS: 64-bit op sys x64-based proc
OS: Windows 11 Home
VER: 24H2
BLD: 26120.1542
EXP: 1000.26100.18.0

Realtek USB GbE Family Controller 12.1.620.2024

Power management: Unchecked
Adaptive Link Speed: Disabled
ARP Offload: Enabled
Batt Mode Link Speed: Not Speed Down
EEE: Enabled
Flow Control: Rx & Tx Enabled
idle pwr dwn restr: No Restriction
idle pwr Saving: Enabled
IPv4 Checksum Offl: Rx & Tx Enabled
Jumbo Frame: Disabled
Lge Send Offlv2(IPv4): Disabled
Lge Send Offlv2(IPv6): Disabled
Misc Transf Settings: Enabled
Network Address: Not Present
NS Offload: Enabled
Priority & VLAN: Priority & VLAN Enabled
Receive Buffers: 37
Receive URBs: 6
Recv Seg Coal (IPv4): Enabled
Recv Seg Coal (IPv6): Enabled
Speed & Duplex: Auto Negotiation
TCP Cksm Offl(IPv4): Rx & Tx Enabled
TCP Cksm Offl(IPv6): Rx & Tx Enabled
Transmit Buffers: 37
Transmit URBs: 3
UDP Cksm Offl(IPv4): Rx & Tx Enabled
UDP Cksm Offl(IPv6): Rx & Tx Enabled
VLAN ID: Not Present
Wake on link change: Enabled
Wake on Magic Packet: Enabled
Wake on pattern match: Enabled
WOL&Shutdwn Lnk Speed: 10 Mbps First

*Please accept my apologies if this question is posted in the wrong place or generally improper for this forum. I've been lurking for years and respect the members' expertise immensely.

[Assistant]
ptd18b said:
My phone gets 900 plugged into the same network with the same cable.
How can your phone be cabled?

thiggins said:
How can your phone be cabled?
Maybe referring to the cable entering the home.
The fastest Wi-Fi device on internet speed-tests is still the Poco F3 phone. The laptop with the slowest speed-tests (it's just slower, not slow) is about 10% slower than the others, but I tend to put that down to the ruggedised design probably dropping the signal strength a little. When it comes to cabled connections, the new laptops and the NanoPc-T6 (RK3588 based) all have 2.5Gbps ports and report a touch faster (>2%) than the router itself. So there's some variance, but here at least not enough to lose and sleep.
Add to this that there may sometimes be bottlenecks outside your home network, and occasionally you can find devices connecting on 2.4GHz rather than 5GHz which all makes a difference.

Crimliar said:
Maybe referring to the cable entering the home.
Thanks, but still want to hear from @ptd18b


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Comcast wants me to upgrade

Comcast emails me periodically that I should upgrade my cable modem for better upload speeds. They're not trying to sell me a modem, they are suggesting I buy a new one on my own. They suggest that with better upstream bandwidth I'll get better video calls and such. There are 2 of us in the house and it's likely that both of us could be streaming video simultaneously.

My modem & router are pretty old, but still giving good performance. Speedtest.net says I'm getting 919 mbps down and 41 mbps up.

Current equipment:
Modem: Motorola MB8600 DOCSIS 3.1
Router: Asus RT-AC68U with Merlin firmware (I told you "pretty old")
WiFi: Netgear Orbi RBR50 main unit & 2 RBS50 satellites with wired backhaul
I'm using the AC68U only in wired mode. I bought the Orbis because Asus hadn't yet started selling AiMesh equipment and my home is too big for a single access point to cover.

My home was wired with Cat5E by the previous owner, and I have loads of 1 gbps unmanaged switches around my large home. I don't anticipate upgrading the in-wall wiring and all the switches. None of my wired equipment can go faster than 1 gigabit anyway.

I have narrowed Comcast's modem suggestions down to the Hitron CODA56. If I get that, I might as well upgrade my ancient router to the Asus RC-AX86U Pro (I need the vertical form factor due to limited space). I would continue using the Orbis for WiFi.

So my question to you all is: Do you think I'll see better performance upgrading to this new modem/router combo? I trust the SNBForums hive mind more than I trust Comcast. Thanks.

[Assistant]
No. You are probably getting what they are selling you. That suggested modem is also a DOCSIS 3.1.

What is your Internet plan?

I have a 1Gbps down/60Mbps up plan, with the same equipment as you, and I get what they sell me.

Dont have Comcast but if their not suggesting a 4.0 modem I'm stumped what 3.1 modem can do better...perhaps they want you to get one with 2.5 Gbit port to gain better download speed? Are ther 3.1 cable modems with more than 8 upload channels for upload?

RocketJSquirrel said:
Do you think I'll see better performance

Highly unlikely. Your Gigabit plan for 2 people is perhaps mostly unused anyway. Streaming UDH 4k video on two TVs fits in 60Mbps.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: How to interpret iPerf3 results?

I ran iPerf3 in server mode on a laptop, connected it via a network cable to a desktop and then ran iPerf3 in client mode on the desktop using iPerf3 <host ip address>.
The laptop is running Windows 10 and the desktop Windows 11.

I can see the following output on the server :

Server listening on 5201 (test #2)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Accepted connection from 169.254.24.181, port 60154
[ 5] local 169.254.228.205 port 5201 connected to 169.254.24.181 port 60155
[ ID] Interval Transfer Bitrate
[ 5] 0.00-1.00 sec 97.5 MBytes 817 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 1.00-2.00 sec 51.4 MBytes 431 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 2.00-3.00 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 3.00-4.01 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 4.01-5.00 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 5.00-6.00 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 6.00-7.00 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 7.00-8.00 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 8.00-9.00 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 9.00-10.00 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
[ ID] Interval Transfer Bitrate
[ 5] 0.00-10.02 sec 149 MBytes 125 Mbits/sec receiver

and this output on the client :
C:\iPerf>iperf3 -c 169.254.228.205
Connecting to host 169.254.228.205, port 5201
[ 5] local 169.254.24.181 port 60152 connected to 169.254.228.205 port 5201
[ ID] Interval Transfer Bitrate
[ 5] 0.00-1.02 sec 5.61 GBytes 47.4 Gbits/sec
[ 5] 1.02-2.01 sec 1.44 GBytes 12.4 Gbits/sec
[ 5] 2.01-3.01 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 3.01-4.01 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 4.01-5.01 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 5.01-6.01 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 6.01-7.01 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 7.01-8.01 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 8.01-9.01 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
[ 5] 9.01-10.01 sec 0.00 Bytes 0.00 bits/sec
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
[ ID] Interval Transfer Bitrate
[ 5] 0.00-10.01 sec 7.05 GBytes 6.05 Gbits/sec sender
[ 5] 0.00-10.01 sec 136 MBytes 114 Mbits/sec receiver

Can someone please help me understand how to properly interpret these results?
Why are the results drastically different between the server and client?
Is the data transfer done by having the client send data to the server?
Is "sender" referring to the client and "receiver" referring to the server?
In the server results, I see only mention of "receiver" at the end but in the client results, there are numbers for both "receiver" and "sender".

I'm doing this test to try to figure out what throughput I get when the test is done with a Cat5e cable (results above) and with a Cat6 cable (results not included above).

[Assistant]
With the same kit at each end of the same length cable, for moderate lengths [approx 1-10 Metres], at 1Gbps speed there should be little to no difference between Cat 5e & Cat 6.
Assuming that the cable is properly terminated and not damaged in any way. i.e. compare like for like as far as possible.
At the extreme end of the length supported by Cat 5e (100 Metres) there could be a difference as Cat 6 is supposed to be more resilient to electrical interference.
[High levels of electical interference will impact Cat 6 & Cat 5e *but* that should be preferentially dealt with, if possible, *before* simply using a 'better' cable.]

Cat 6 supports up to 10Gb Networking Standards [Needs *ALL* kit to support 10Gb networking standards ... Network Cards/Switches/etc]
Cat 5e supports up to 1Gb Networking Standards [Needs *ALL* kit to support 1Gb networking standards ... Network Cards/Switches/etc]

Cat5e & Cat 6 can be mixed at 1Gb *but* not at 10Gb.

Speed is driven by what is connected to the cable *but* 1Gb or 10Gb kit cannot be made to go faster regardless of the cable used.

N.B.
There are distance limits for Cat 5e [1Gb @ 100 Metres] & Cat 6 [10Gb @ 55 Metres] beyond these limits the max speed is not guaranteed.
Depending on the quality of the cable it *could* support the max speed beyond these limits but this is not a given.

Those iperf3 results seem seriously broken. What you should expect on a simple ethernet connection is pretty much rock-solid-steady throughput for the whole run, except maybe a bit of ramp-up behavior at the start, and possibly some wonkiness from a fractional-second interval at the end. Here's a sample of what I get with two Intel NUC machines plugged into the same ethernet switch:

-----------------------------------------------------------
Server listening on 5201
-----------------------------------------------------------
Accepted connection from 192.168.1.13, port 57810
[ 5] local 192.168.1.11 port 5201 connected to 192.168.1.13 port 57818
[ ID] Interval Transfer Bitrate
[ 5] 0.00-1.00 sec 108 MBytes 907 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 1.00-2.00 sec 112 MBytes 941 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 2.00-3.00 sec 112 MBytes 941 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 3.00-4.00 sec 112 MBytes 941 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 4.00-5.00 sec 112 MBytes 941 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 5.00-6.00 sec 112 MBytes 941 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 6.00-7.00 sec 112 MBytes 941 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 7.00-8.00 sec 112 MBytes 941 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 8.00-9.00 sec 112 MBytes 941 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 9.00-10.00 sec 112 MBytes 941 Mbits/sec
[ 5] 10.00-10.04 sec 3.88 MBytes 933 Mbits/sec
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
[ ID] Interval Transfer Bitrate
[ 5] 0.00-10.04 sec 1.10 GBytes 937 Mbits/sec receiver

and

Connecting to host nuc1, port 5201
[ 5] local 192.168.1.13 port 57818 connected to 192.168.1.11 port 5201
[ ID] Interval Transfer Bitrate Retr Cwnd
[ 5] 0.00-1.00 sec 114 MBytes 955 Mbits/sec 0 393 KBytes
[ 5] 1.00-2.00 sec 112 MBytes 940 Mbits/sec 0 393 KBytes
[ 5] 2.00-3.00 sec 112 MBytes 939 Mbits/sec 0 393 KBytes
[ 5] 3.00-4.00 sec 112 MBytes 944 Mbits/sec 0 393 KBytes
[ 5] 4.00-5.00 sec 113 MBytes 944 Mbits/sec 0 393 KBytes
[ 5] 5.00-6.00 sec 112 MBytes 937 Mbits/sec 0 393 KBytes
[ 5] 6.00-7.00 sec 113 MBytes 944 Mbits/sec 0 393 KBytes
[ 5] 7.00-8.00 sec 112 MBytes 936 Mbits/sec 0 393 KBytes
[ 5] 8.00-9.00 sec 112 MBytes 944 Mbits/sec 0 393 KBytes
[ 5] 9.00-10.00 sec 112 MBytes 937 Mbits/sec 0 393 KBytes
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
[ ID] Interval Transfer Bitrate Retr
[ 5] 0.00-10.00 sec 1.10 GBytes 942 Mbits/sec 0 sender
[ 5] 0.00-10.04 sec 1.10 GBytes 937 Mbits/sec receiver

BTW, the default test setup is with the client sending data. Add the '-R' (receive) switch to have the client receive data; you should get largely-comparable results. Newer iperf3 versions also accept '--bidir' to run concurrent send and receive.

I'm not sure what's going on with your results. Could be you have a broken version of iperf3, or there's something wrong with one or the other ethernet port, or something wrong with the cable. Do you observe any performance issues in ordinary use of these machines?

Twiglets said:
With the same kit at each end of the same length cable, for moderate lengths [approx 1-10 Metres], at 1Gbps speed there should be little to no difference between Cat 5e & Cat 6.
Assuming that the cable is properly terminated and not damaged in any way. i.e. compare like for like as far as possible.
At the extreme end of the length supported by Cat 5e (100 Metres) there could be a difference as Cat 6 is supposed to be more resilient to electrical interference.
[High levels of electical interference will impact Cat 6 & Cat 5e *but* that should be preferentially dealt with, if possible, *before* simply using a 'better' cable.]

Cat 6 supports up to 10Gb Networking Standards [Needs *ALL* kit to support 10Gb networking standards ... Network Cards/Switches/etc]
Cat 5e supports up to 1Gb Networking Standards [Needs *ALL* kit to support 1Gb networking standards ... Network Cards/Switches/etc]

Cat5e & Cat 6 can be mixed at 1Gb *but* not at 10Gb.

Speed is driven by what is connected to the cable *but* 1Gb or 10Gb kit cannot be made to go faster regardless of the cable used.

N.B.
There are distance limits for Cat 5e [1Gb @ 100 Metres] & Cat 6 [10Gb @ 55 Metres] beyond these limits the max speed is not guaranteed.
Depending on the quality of the cable it *could* support the max speed beyond these limits but this is not a given.
Click to expand...
I am aware that 1 Gbps is the official speed limit supported by Cat 5e cables. The reason why I'm doing this test is because I've seen some YouTubers test and confirm that unofficially, Cat 5e cables does support up to 2.5 Gbps (I wasn't trying to test if 10 Gbps is supported, only 2.5 Gbps).

This is why I am seeking help in this forum to make sure I am interpreting my test results properly.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Effect of security cameras on LAN

Hoping I can get a little help here. I am considering replacing my wired security NVR with a POE NVR and some high bandwidth cameras. My concern is the cameras recording all the time may slow my network down?

I wasn't sure if I could separate the cameras with a Vlan as here - https://www.snbforums.com/threads/h...-386-or-388-code-no-scripting-required.85850/ or just stick a switch in between the NVR and cameras and the traffic won't disturb much else. I am open to all ideas, just have no idea how to keep these devices from slowing other things down. You can tell I actually have no idea how my network actually operates!

I have an Asus RT AX89X ( bought in a rush after a breakdown of my RT AC88U. Managed to buy the only non Merlin supported Asus!). The AC88U was bought after advice here.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[Assistant]
VLANs won't help you here, in fact they add (a tiny amount of) network overhead. If you can plug all the cameras and the NVR into the same switch, that would work to keep the traffic off the rest of your network.

There's a separate discussion to be had about whether you want to isolate the camera traffic for security reasons. If you do, VLANs can help with that. But they won't help with bandwidth concerns.

I suspect you're overthinking this: security cams don't normally consume a lot of bandwidth. But if you want to spring for an extra switch, go for it.

TGL, Thanks! You are right I am overthinking it. I was going to move up to some 8mp cameras for better ID and was reading at 30fps they could use up to 16mbps. So I was worried 5 or 6 (at the most) potentially means 100mbps spinning around my network as a baseload. If the switch keeps that from the rest of the network it seems a modest cost. Thank you

Cameras network must be isolates from your internal network. Otherwise you'll potentially provide 5-6 wired connections to your internal network accessible from outside.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Getting 2.5gbe From Modem With Gigabit Router

My current setup is an ISP-provided modem that has a 2.5gbe port plugged into an ASUS RT-AX5400 which I bought for the additional features and performance as the ISP modem/router kind of sucks. When I bought it, I didn't have any devices that could do >1gbps so the fact that it was only gigabit didn't matter. I now have a couple of devices with 2.5gbe. I'm wondering if there's a way to get the full 2.5gbps connection to my 2.5gbe devices without replacing the router. The ASUS router supports link aggregation for both WAN and LAN afaik, but I'm not sure if that would help in this situation. Any help is appreciated!

[Assistant]
Does your ISP contract provide you with speeds greater than 1Gbps? Just because the ISP-supplied modem has a 2.5GbE port it doesn't mean that they're giving you that speed.

Even if they are providing you with a download speed greater than 1Gbps, as you said, your RT-AX5400 only has 1GbE ports. So the only way to get greater throughput would be if the ISP modem could be reconfigured to use two 1GbE ports in link aggregation mode. That would give a theoretical combined throughput to multiple LAN devices of up to 2Gbps (minus overheads).

ColinTaylor said:
Does your ISP contract provide you with speeds greater than 1Gbps? Just because the ISP-supplied modem has a 2.5GbE port it doesn't mean that they're giving you that speed.

Even if they are providing you with a download speed greater than 1Gbps, as you said, your RT-AX5400 only has 1GbE ports. So the only way to get greater throughput would be if the ISP modem could be reconfigured to use two 1GbE ports in link aggregation mode. That would give a theoretical throughput to LAN devices of up to 2Gbps (minus overheads).
Click to expand...
My ISP does provide 2gbps download speed.

So, using link aggregation I would still only get 1gbps per device on up to 2 devices simultaneously (minus overhead)?

mothercow said:
So, using link aggregation I would still only get 1gbps per device on up to 2 devices simultaneously (minus overhead)?
Check the options for your specific router model, but AFAIK you can only setup link aggregation for WAN or LAN, not both. Therefore a client connected to one of the LAN ports will still be limited to gigabit speed.

But the more LAN clients you have (concurrently active) the more likely you are to achieve near 2Gbps aggregated throughput.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: AT&T residential fiber's "Passthrough" mode and public IPs...

Does anyone understand how these work together? Is it my router that's sending a DHCP request to AT&T to get an IP address lease or is it still the gateway sending the DHCP requests and simply passing the IP address it gets back to the router?

I tried to get AT&T to refresh my public IP address but they claimed they can't do anything because they can't "see" the router, presumably it's because in Passthrough mode. So with that being the case is there anything I can do to prompt an IP lease release/renew?

[Assistant]
What router are you using (and what firmware version)?

Here it's an ASUS ZenWifi AX XT8, firmware v3.0.0.4.388_24621.

Do you have the split ONT and Router or the combined unit ?


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Link aggregation and NAS

Hello. I have a Qnap TS-251 NAS and Asus RT-AX88U router with two mesh routers. My internet is 1G down and 30 up. Both the main router and the NAS allow for link aggregation. I know enough to be dangerous. I gather that link aggregation mainly works well if you have more than one user on the network. In my case it's just me and the LG Oled TV. I use the NAS for Plex and general file server activities. Would enabling link aggregation between the router and the NAS increase my network speed or anything? Thanks.
-Mark

[Assistant]
ColinTaylor said:
No, there would be no benefit in your situation.
Thank you.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: 2nd VPN router and switching to non VPN router

How to use a 2nd network card for a VPN router and switching between the VPN & non VPN routers quickly

[Assistant]
Just use 1 WiFi network card, separate SSID's for each router and just bounce between SSID's. Quick and easy.

fryedchikin said:
Just use 1 WiFi network card, separate SSID's for each router and just bounce between SSID's. Quick and easy.
Perhaps I should've clarified a bit more... I'm coming off of a XB8 modem/router to a Asus AXE16000 that goes to a VLan switch while also having a Linksys WRT1900ACSv2 ... each of these 2 routers are directly connected to 2 seperate network cards on my Windows 10 Desktop.

The Asus has NordVPN installed directly to it while the Linksys is configured "normally".

I only have 1 Wifi device and that's connecting to the Wifi that's in the XB8 router.

The Asus is using 172.16.x.x while the Linksys is using 192.168.x.x to avoid DHCP issues but what I'm trying to do is.... be able to quickly switch between the 2 network cards so I can use the 1Gb speed that the "non-VPN" Linksys gives me while the Asus in VPN mode has about 165mb speed.

The speed sacrifice using VPN is crazy... You can see why I'm looking for a quick efficient way of switching between network cards for normal activities...

What about running VPN client on the PC itself? It's going to be much faster and easy to switch on/off.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Trying to diagnose why Google Pixel Devices won't update on network?

Hi, my Pixel devices (Watch and Phone) seem not to update on my home network since a few weeks, but for example I visit my parents I can run system updates normally.

I have a PiHole running with AsusWRT (Merlin) RT-AX86U.

Checking the system logs doesn't seem to give anything useful on the ASUS.
Code:
Aug 15 01:00:00 hostapd: eth6: STA <mac-address> IEEE 802.11: associated
Aug 15 01:00:00 hostapd: eth6: STA <mac-address> RADIUS: starting accounting session <random string>
Aug 15 01:00:00 hostapd: eth6: STA <mac-address> WPA: pairwise key handshake completed (RSN)
Aug 15 01:00:00 dnsmasq-dhcp[1508]: DHCPREQUEST(br0) 192.168.1.23 <mac-address>
Aug 15 01:00:00 dnsmasq-dhcp[1508]: DHCPACK(br0) 192.168.1.23 <mac-address>
Aug 15 01:09:59 kernel: wl0: random key value: <random string>
Aug 15 01:09:59 wlceventd: wlceventd_proc_event(662): eth6: Disassoc <mac-address>, status: 0, reason: Disassociated because sending station is leaving (or has left) BSS (8), rssi:0
Aug 15 01:09:59 wlceventd: wlceventd_proc_event(662): eth6: Disassoc <mac-address>, status: 0, reason: Disassociated because sending station is leaving (or has left) BSS (8), rssi:0
Aug 15 01:09:59 hostapd: eth6: STA <mac-address> IEEE 802.11: disassociated
Aug 15 01:09:59 hostapd: eth6: STA <mac-address> IEEE 802.11: disassociated
Aug 15 10:30:33 wlceventd: wlceventd_proc_event(685): eth6: Auth <mac-address>, status: Successful (0), rssi:0
Aug 15 10:30:33 wlceventd: wlceventd_proc_event(722): eth6: Assoc <mac-address>, status: Successful (0), rssi:-50
Aug 15 10:30:33 hostapd: eth6: STA <mac-address> IEEE 802.11: associated
Aug 15 10:30:33 hostapd: eth6: STA <mac-address> RADIUS: starting accounting session <random string>
Aug 15 10:30:33 hostapd: eth6: STA <mac-address> WPA: pairwise key handshake completed (RSN)
Aug 15 10:30:33 dnsmasq-dhcp[1508]: DHCPREQUEST(br0) 192.168.1.23 <mac-address>
Aug 15 10:30:33 dnsmasq-dhcp[1508]: DHCPACK(br0) 192.168.1.23 <mac-address>

But my guess is that there won't be any abnormalities in the log since the device connects normally and updating apps works fine too?
The PiHole also doesn't show any blocked domains, but deactivating the PiHole doesn't seem to provide any results.

I'm not sure how to continue investigating the issue

I love my parents but going there to just update my device seems overkill

[Assistant]
In the Pinhole
Whitelist

cdn.optimizely.com
www.google-analytics.com
app-measurement.com

You may need to whitelist other domains.

If it's just for a single situation, you can always temporarily (there's a timer) disable pi-hole blocking for a short period or even temporarily just for the one device.

bbunge said:
cdn.optimizely.com
www.google-analytics.com
app-measurement.com

Crimliar said:
If it's just for a single situation, you can always temporarily (there's a timer) disable pi-hole blocking for a short period or even temporarily just for the one device.
Thanks for the suggestion, I tried specifically whitelisting google domains and also turning off the pi hole entirely (also tried removing it as my DNS) to no avail.

I think I'll try to get some debug logcat data from the watch next


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: ICANN reserves .internal for private use at the DNS level

Finally a top level domain to use for your internal network:

ICANN approves use of .internal domain for your network
Vint Cerf revealed Google already uses the string, as do plenty of others
www.theregister.com

(I was using .lan, but plan to switch to this new .internal)

[Assistant]
Only took them like 20 years. I guess it wasn't a priority like the hundreds of senseless vanity TLDs that got approved these past few years because $$$.

I have always used .test for my local DNS (over 15 years) and see no reason to change.
.test is also less letters to type.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Jumbo frames

Just came to know about this, then I checked device manager under my realtek LAN adapter and it had jumbo frame set to disabled, am I right in assuming that setting it to the largest size of 16128 bytes is the best? I have a 930 MBPS down/350MBPS up connection and I do a lot of streaming

[Assistant]
Spartan said:
Just came to know about this, then I checked device manager under my realtek LAN adapter and it had jumbo frame set to disabled, am I right in assuming that setting it to the largest size of 16128 bytes is the best? I have a 930 MBPS down/350MBPS up connection and I do a lot of streaming
Jumbo frames will have no effect on your internet connection. It only effects LAN to LAN traffic.

ColinTaylor said:
Jumbo frames will have no effect on your internet connection. It only effects LAN to LAN traffic.
got it, thank you

Your GT-AX6000 routers don't support Jumbo Frame anyway.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: ..

..

[Assistant]
tiddlywink said:
Do you use it at home?

I don't use IPv6 anywhere, home or business, multiple networks. I have public IPv4 addresses available, IPv6 not needed.

tiddlywink said:
Perhaps I'm the outlier here for holding out for so long.

No. Used when needed, not used when not needed. If you have public IPv4 address on your WAN side you don't need it.

My ISP supports it but 1.5 month ago something broke on their side - all my configs got corrupted. They restored ipv4 but failed to fix ipv6 since. No matter how hard I attempted to help them debug the issue... It appears that GPON is not giving me any ipv6 address. Some kind of conflict or whatever. This is my sad ipv6 experience so far. And I already paid for cloudflare to take stuff from my server via ipv6 and translate into ipv4 for world access. Sad.

My ISP has still has a slow 6RD Tunnel in 2024. So you can enable it to get ~150mb IPv6.. So no, I have it disabled.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: vlan hardware

Im a total beginner in terms of vlan set up, the objective for me is to learn how to build in my home network setting first, then once im comfortable do the same at a restaurant. I have attached a drawing of the desired network i am aiming for at home.
I understand the basic concepts and have tried to set up once already with the hardware that i have with limited success.

The hardware I have is
TP-Link Archer AX55 / AX3000 4-Stream Wi-Fi 6 Router
TP-Link-SG108PE Smart Switch
TP-Link AP WA 901ND Access Point

The switch & access points you can configure vlans on but i can find none on the router.

So having spent a lot of time on google with regard to whether a router needs to be vlan capable im confused .

So the question is do i need to buy a different router to build the vlan network example attached?

[Assistant]
One of the problems in using typical consumer-grade hardware is that it often lacks important features (usually to keep things simple and affordable for the masses) that become important for more sophisticated configurations. And your typical consumer-grade router is a good example. Rarely do these support VLANs. Not unless you're able to find third-party firmware support (dd-wrt, tomato, etc.). And as you combine additional consumer-grade hardware (switches, APs, whatever), it just gets harder. In most cases, you're better off to consider prosumer-grade equipment like Ubiquity, from top to bottom, so you have ALL the capabilities you need, assured compatibility, extensibility, only need to deal w/ *one* vendor for support, etc.

All that said, the biggest problem here is that the router is NOT VLAN aware, which means there's no way for that router to manage each VLAN's subnet wrt DHCP, DNS, routing (local or internet), etc. If the router *was* VLAN aware, then you could define and configure each VLAN on the router and establish a trunk port from the switch to the router. Now when the router sees those VLAN IDs, it knows how to respond to each w/ DHCP, assign an appropriate default gateway, establish firewall rules to determine which VLANs can or can't talk to each other, etc.

So that's the biggest issue here. Trying to mix a VLAN aware switch w/ a NON VLAN aware router is problematic. (BTW, I'm assuming, the TP-Link switch is strictly a layer 2 device and has no routing capabilities of its own (sometimes switches add that capability, but not usually)). The separation you desire at the point of the switch can't be maintained up to the router unless the router itself knows of that separation (via VLANs). From the perspective of the router, there is NO DIFFERENCE between the various clients, and it will assume they all share the same local IP network. And therein lies the rub.

look at the ER605 + OC200 controller. The ER605 605 is VLAN aware and will allow you to VPN into the network securely. The OC200 controller will allow you to manage the devices on the network and it will handle coordination of APs etc.
Best would be to use all OMADA hardware , but check with TPlink to make sure the AP and switch you have is supported. They may not be supported by the controller

Why don't you try Pfsense for a router? It is free to use.

I use Cisco small business as I know it will work. If there is a problem, I know it is me not the software. I find it much faster to debug that way.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: fiber vs cable

Which is the preferred technology for an Internet connection, fiber or cable? I think fiber usually offers symmetric UL/DL, but that is not an issue for me. Why would someone prefer one technology over the other? (price not being a factor)

[Assistant]
Get the fiber if available in your area. I would trade 200/200 fiber for my 500/30 cable any day. Symmetrical line is better, the latency will be lower, the connection will be more reliable, the equipment to your place will be perhaps newer.

Justinh said:
Which is the preferred technology for an Internet connection, fiber or cable? I think fiber usually offers symmetric UL/DL, but that is not an issue for me. Why would someone prefer one technology over the other? (price not being a factor)
Fiber is more reliable, seldom (if ever) has issues.

Tech9 said:
Symmetrical line is better,
Yeah. Many people underestimate the importance of upload speed, but it does matter. Visiting a typical web page involves dozens to hundreds of request/reply cycles, so the requests have to go through quickly if you don't want a perception of lagginess.
Tech9 said:
... the equipment to your place will be perhaps newer.
This. In the city where I live, the cable plant is decades old, and it had a thoroughly earned reputation for flakiness even when it was new. I've had fiber service (Verizon FiOS) for over a dozen years now, and never had any problems that seemed to trace to the wiring. The first-generation ONT that they originally gave me had its share of issues and needed periodic rebooting, but the newer ones have been solid as a rock.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Sanity Check of New Network Layout

Hey there!

I am currently restructuring my network (see attached layout) and would greatly appreciate your thoughts
A few explanations to the network diagram before I ask all of my questions:
The ISP will replace the 1G fiber with 10G this year, so I marked it both. Then, the traffic goes into the firewall which does IDS/IPS (suricata, snort, etc) and acts as a Wireguard VPN gateway. The signal then goes through a managed switch for VLAN tagging, like, wifi clients into a VLAN, IoT devices into a VLAN, etc. So far, all of this is in the basement. Then, in the ground the floor, there is the ASUS router to which the wifi clients connect to (the BE98 does VLAN per SSID), in floor 1 and floor 2 an ASUS XT-8 repeater/AP for the same purposes.

Now my questions:

1) Does this layout make sense from a security and logical view?
2) When connecting to the guest ssid on the BE98 and, for example, VLAN tag 10 is added to it and AP isolation for the guest network is enabled, is the switch overwriting the isolation if I want devices in the guest network to communicate with each other? Or is my understanding (and layout?) completely flawed?
3) If I connect to one of the XT8's, that repeats the three (can repeat up to 3 SSIDs) different SSID's from the BE98, will the VLAN tagging happen here as well? My understanding would be yes, given the XT8 just repeat the signal and the "decision" for tagging is made at the BE98.

Thanks!

[Assistant]
This is quite messy project, honestly. You need serious investments for 10Gbps ISP going to your LAN. The firewall doing IDS/IPS at this speed has to be something serious, you better run the network on a 10GbE with PoE managed switch and deploy PoE APs. This is how my business networks run, but you are looking at thousands in new equipment. Home routers as APs, 2 out of 3 not VLAN capable - why? This need for speed will eat your wallet.

I would send this GT-BE98 back immediately (in case it was purchased already), get one GT-AX11000 Pro instead and make AiMesh with existing (somewhat*) matching 3-band XT8s. Additional firewall, smart switch - not needed. Keep the NAS of course, connect it to your main router. Seriously, what else do you need at home? What you can't do with Gigabit fiber and why the mismatch of beta tester edition Wi-Fi 7 and Wi-Fi 6?

* - limited to what AiMesh is in Asuswrt 4.0

Well, you could run Pfsense without IDS/IPS. Your ASUS is not going to have it as it has a much smaller CPU. There are some low wattage i7 out there that can move some data. Most businesses don't care about wattage and they just use the highest-powered CPU. The other thing you did not mention is it 10gig link rate or data speed.

ASUS has no chance of processing a 10gig data stream. The hardware is built too light and too small of CPU.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: multi gig understanding

Hello,

not sure about the category of my question.
Sorry for the stupid question, but network is not my thing.

I would like to know is there's any value on connecting an ethernet multi gig device (ie 2.5G) on a mutligig router if this device is the only one in the network to be more than 1gig connexion ?

Thanks in advance.

Kind regards,

Chris

[Assistant]
For now, there is no disadvantage. In true performance terms there may be an incredibly small decrease in latency, but with just the single device this may be so small as to be completely negated by other constraints. Over time we'll probably see a widening gap between the capabilities demanded by enthusiasts and the average consumer.
Bought a TV with an ethernet port recently? Odds are it'll still be 100Mbit.
We'll probably see some increase in wired performance on everyday products, but I'd expect the increases in wired speed to appear less often!
Now WiFi, that's a different bunny to pet!
I have a 2.5Gbps ONT, router, switch, SBCs, and it's once that they are capable, but I don't really see any real-world benefit (yet), and could easily live without that extra speed!

chrisbati said:
I would like to know is there's any value on connecting an ethernet multi gig device (ie 2.5G) on a mutligig router if this device is the only one in the network to be more than 1gig connexion ?

Depends ... what's the device and what's it being used for?

If you have, say, a NAS or media center that needs to stream out video concurrently to multiple other devices on your network, then this could be very worthwhile: even though no other device can pull more than 1Gbps, the total demand on the NAS could exceed that. Similar comments apply to cases such as multiple devices concurrently backing up to a NAS. Of course, any network infrastructure in between, such as switches, needs to be able to handle the traffic too.

If you don't have a use-case like that, then no you're probably not going to get any benefit.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: News Realtek 5 Gbps Ethernet solutions shown at Computex 2023

5 Gbps Ethernet just got a lot more intresting, as Realtek was showing multilple 5 Gbps solutions at Computex 2023 and not are these chips barely any larger than their 2.5 Gbps products, but they also offer low power usage and are expected to be very affordable compared to the competition, think $5 or less for the chips vs. $20-30 for similar solutions from other companies. Hit up the link for more details.

Realtek's 5 Gbps Ethernet Solutions Will Reduce Cost and Power Draw Significantly
Realtek has decided to take consumer Ethernet speeds to a new level later this year with a family of 5 Gbps parts that are unlike anything its competitors have announced so far. The RTL8126-CG PCIe 3.0 x1 controller is a tiny QFN56 chip that measures 8 by 8 millimetres and consumes up to 1.7...
www.techpowerup.com

[Assistant]
TheLostSwede said:
5 Gbps Ethernet just got a lot more intresting, as Realtek was showing multilple 5 Gbps solutions at Computex 2023 and not are these chips barely any larger than their 2.5 Gbps products, but they also offer low power usage and are expected to be very affordable compared to the competition, think $5 or less for the chips vs. $20-30 for similar solutions from other companies. Hit up the link for more details.

Click to expand...
I’ve had a chance to test a RTL8126 adapter and it works well:
https://www.jiribrejcha.net/2024/06...ry-pi-5-with-iocrest-realtek-rtl8126-adapter/


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: Building a Homelab

Hi - I was trying to find the best place to post this, and happy to contribute back the deployment walkthrough when it is all working. Given my existing network gear, I elected for this forum

I want to take my existing home network - designed to be wife friendly and update it to include a Home Lab and a Work Lab. My son lives away from home, but I want to put a few machines in the Home Lab (to do media streaming etc.) and create a work vlan

I already have a GT-AX11000 router and GT-AXE11000 router, and Netgear JGS524Ev2 24-Port and GS108Ev3 8 port managed switch. I would prefer not to start again on the hardware, but happy to look if prices are not too crazy.

My current thinking is as follows:
Code:
                Internet
                   |
                pfSense
       ---------------------------
      |             |             |
 Home Network   Home Lab      Work Lab
  (VLAN 10)      (VLAN 20)     (VLAN 30)
      |             |             |
 PCs, IoT         NAS,        Test Services
 Devices, TV     Media Server

Reading some of the articles, I am contemplating putting the ASUS kit on the Home Network only. I have been looking at some small boxes, such as the Protectli Vault FW4B, and possibly just park the ASUS in the Home network.

I am open to any thoughts on the network and pointers on tutorials if others have done something similar.

[Assistant]
Well, the best option would be to have one router/firewall (pfSense) to take care of all the traffic and the VLANs connected to a managed switch. Now the GS is managed but only has 8 ports. Is that enough for your purposes? Not much you can do with the JGS switch as it is unmanaged and you do need a managed switch for VLAN's. Also, i can't think of another purpose than to demote both GT routers to access points and use the ports as an extension of the GS-switch.

Honestly, you would be better off selling both GT routers and the unmanaged switch and get a bigger managed switch and a couple of decent access points. With those, you could deploy the VLANs all the way to unique SSID's for each VLAN. You could use the smaller GS-switch for local LAN port expansion.

robMad said:
Hi - I was trying to find the best place to post this, and happy to contribute back the deployment walkthrough when it is all working. Given my existing network gear, I elected for this forum

I want to take my existing home network - designed to be wife friendly and update it to include a Home Lab and a Work Lab. My son lives away from home, but I want to put a few machines in the Home Lab (to do media streaming etc.) and create a work vlan

I already have a GT-AX11000 router and GT-AXE11000 router, and Netgear JGS524Ev2 24-Port and GS108Ev3 8 port managed switch. I would prefer not to start again on the hardware, but happy to look if prices are not too crazy.

My current thinking is as follows:

Reading some of the articles, I am contemplating putting the ASUS kit on the Home Network only. I have been looking at some small boxes, such as the Protectli Vault FW4B, and possibly just park the ASUS in the Home network.

I am open to any thoughts on the network and pointers on tutorials if others have done something similar.
Click to expand...
My guess is your wireless would not work well. If you turned off wireless on the wireless routers and used 2 APs it might work.

I think you would be better off building a real network business class. Wireless routers are too limited when it comes to building real networks with lots of networks in them.


[System] You are a professional Wi-Fi router support assistant; I will provide forum posts as background material, and you should learn from them while remaining aware that forum content may be incomplete, outdated, or incorrect — when uncertain, explicitly note that you are uncertain and refer the user to official documentation or other authoritative sources for verification.

[User]
Title: HTTP to HTTPS redirect prevents log in to router

Tried logging in to my router today on the usual local 192.168... address but the browser throws me out by redirecting to https and I tried
3 different browsers and 2 computers hardwired and wireless.
So then I connected via a VPN to the WAN IP which after putting up a warning allowed me to connect to the router which is a
NR5103E connected to 3 cellular network
Anyone know what's going on ?

[Assistant]
the first thing to try is to use
https://192.168.50.1:8433
It may well be that it still won't let you straight in, but there'll be a link at the bottom of the page that then allows you to connect insecurely.

^like he said ^
When I run into that, I click into the address bar and remove the (http)"s", enter.

Yes I tried most things and it seems to be connecting Ok now and today I tried to put the ISP router into IP pass through to an ASUS AC68U without success so I'll have to concede defeat and use the built in UPNP system of the cameras for remote access. When I had a conventional ISP with a static IP I could get port forwarding to work no problem but I think these 4g LTE systems have limitations