"Assuming that the will that bequeathed the money to your son did not stipulate any restrictions or set up a trust to hold the money until your son turns 25, or something like that, I don't think you have much choice except to put the money in a UTMA account (which of course can be invested in whatever  the trustee (which could be you, or you and your wife jointly) decides.  Note: not a UGMA account since the money is not a gift. You also don't have any option except to turn the account over to your son when he turns eighteen. The point is, the investment can be in anything as long as the account is registered as a UTMA account.  But do remember also that your son is entitled to sue you for breach of fiduciary duty if you don't take good care of the money, so that blowing it all in risky investments is also not a good idea. If you are worried about taxes and your son's income being taxed at your rate, one way of deferring the issue is to buy US Savings Bonds. The interest can be deferred from taxation until the bonds are redeemed. Edit added in response to JoeTaxpayer's comments: But a better strategy is to declare the accrued interest each year as unearned income of the child on the kiddie tax form that is part of your tax return, and pay the tax, if any, that results To ease your mind or conscience, think of the tax that you pay on your child's behalf as a gift to your child! In any case, there will likely not be much tax due since the first $950 of unearned  income of a child is tax-free and the next $950 taxed at 10%. Then, when the bonds are cashed in, the interest that accrued (and was ""taxed"") in earlier years can be deducted  from the interest (cash in price minus purchase price) that you (or your son) will be told is the interest that the bonds earned. Of course, if kiddie tax is not a concern (and it shouldn't be, given the amount available for investment), an even better strategy is to set up the UTMA account(s) in long-term investments in low-cost index funds or ETFs (as JoeTaxpayer suggests) and pay the tax, if any, as it comes due."


I know I can not trade futures realistically (I never claimed I could). All I wanted was some exposure to commodities.  If I could just trade many of these things in an ETF like GLD or XLV, I would have done that.   On the topic of margin, I appreciate your explaining that to me. I admit readily that I could never invest in futures straight, but I would like to get into commodities and other types of investments. I have tried to look for value in the market, but I have not found many things I would put my money in. I have gone as far as to look through OTC ADRs to find some foreign value, and I found nothing. I just want to be able to trade in any market, and I would consider shorting, but I don't like to be too risky. I want to go long on positions, and it seemed like commodities may be a good speculation to LOOK INTO. Taking rough rice as an example, there are millions (if not billions) of people who eat rice to survive. People will always need oil to fuel their cars. People will always need electricity. So I guess what I am trying to do is look into things that allow me to profit, regardless of where equities are going. The only thing I want to do is trade the options of the futures, not the actual futures themselves. I hope I did not confuse you. If I can earn even $20 from buying an option at a lower price and selling higher, it would allow me to have a greater breadth of tools to use when the market may be overvalued.


Your logo and slogan mean very little at this point. Don't waste too much time on them.  Have him spend his downtime going door-to-door. He should introduce himself as a new plumber in the area, and hand them a $100 coupon for free plumbing work, good once per household, for one call, not including parts.  Most plumbing bills are well over a hundred bucks, so he'll still make money on the call, and I'm willing to bet that people will tell their friends about the plumber that's offering a hundred bucks in free labor, partially because most people naturally feel indebted when they get something for free.  Not only that, but one of peoples' biggest fears in calling a plumber is the bill -- getting $100 knocked right off the top is a great way to get past that psychological barrier.  If he does good work, that leads to recommendations. I'd avoid offering referral bonuses -- you want people referring him because he's Jesus with a wrench, not because they get a Starbucks gift card.  That said, make sure he follows up with clients a few weeks to a month after doing work for them, and checks in to make sure they are still satisfied. Happy clients are clients that refer you to other people.  He can also give those coupons to gardeners, maids, or other people that do in-house work. Those people want the referral bonus -- figure out a sensible fee structure. Alternatively, he can offer to refer them to his clients when they need gardening and so on.  Register on Google Maps, Yelp, etc. Plumbing is location-based, so going too broad on the 'net side of things won't help hugely at this stage.  See if your local hardware stores, supermarkets, and so on will let him put fliers or business cards next to the Drano and toilet parts.


Bad signs:


I was reading about the development of our modern highway system. Remember 'what's good for General Motors is good for America'? The car manufacturers had a lot to do with the building of the interstates.  The problem is every new generations thinks the problems it sees are new when they are are really just the same ol' same ol' in news togs. Ultimately, much of our inclination to fuck up is down to our lives being so short. Nobody remembers.


seriously money is debt has to be the most ridiculous comparison i've ever heard. that statement implies commutativity and certainly i would never say debt is money. i could take on debt to get money, but the debt itself is a liability and not an asset.  your last paragraph about fiat money is correct, but i should say that with modern financial markets price discovery isn't some magic voodoo thing.


If there's no prepayment penalty, and if the extra is applied to principal rather than just toward later payments, then paying extra saves you money. Paying more often, by itself, doesn't. Paying early within a single month (ie, paying off the loan at the same average rate) doesn't save enough you be worth considering


"You don't state where you are, so any answers to this will by necessity be very general in nature. How many bank accounts should I have and what kinds You should have one transaction account and one savings account. You can get by with just a single transaction account, but I really don't recommend that. These are referred to with different names in different jurisdictions, but the basic idea is that you have one account where money is going in and out (the transaction account), and one where money goes in and stays (the savings account). You can then later on, as you discover various needs, build on top of that basic foundation. For example, I have separate accounts for each source of money that comes into my personal finances, which makes things much easier when I sit down to fill out the tax forms up to almost a year and a half later, but also adds a bit of complexity. For me, that simplicity at tax time is worth the additional complexity; for someone just starting out, it might not be. (And of course, it is completely unnecessary if you have only one source of taxable income and no other specific reason to separate income streams.) how much (percentage-wise) of my income should I put into each one? With a single transaction account, your entire income will be going into that account. Having a single account to pay money into will also make life easier for your employer. You will then have to work out a budget that says how much you plan to spend on food, shelter, savings, and so on. how do I portion them out into budgets and savings? If you have no idea where to start, but have an appropriate financial history (as opposed to just now moving into a household of your own), bring out some old account statements and categorize each line item in a way that makes sense to you. Don't be too specific; four or five categories will probably be plenty. These are categories like ""living expenses"" (rent, electricity, utilities, ...), ""food and eating out"" (everything you put in your mouth), ""savings"" (don't forget to subtract what you take out of savings), and so on. This will be your initial budget. If you have no financial history, you are probably quite young and just moving out from living with your parents. Ask them how much might be reasonable in your area to spend on basic food, a place to live, and so on. Use those numbers as a starting point for a budget of your own, but don't take them as absolute truths. Always have a ""miscellaneous expenses"" or ""other"" line in your budget. There will always be expenses that you didn't plan for, and/or which don't neatly fall into any other category. Allocate a reasonable sum of money to this category. This should be where you take money from during a normal month when you overshoot in some budget category; your savings should be a last resort, not something you tap into on a regular basis. (If you find yourself needing to tap into your savings on a regular basis, adjust your budget accordingly.) Figure out based on your projected expenses and income how much you can reasonably set aside and not touch. It's impossible for us to say exactly how much this will be. Some people have trouble setting aside 5% of their income on a regular basis without touching it; others easily manage to save over 50% of their income. Don't worry if this turns out a small amount at first. Get in touch with your bank and set up an automatic transfer from your transaction account to the savings account, set to recur each and every time you get paid (you may want to allow a day or two of margin to ensure that the money has arrived in your account before it gets taken out), of the amount you determined that you can save on a regular basis. Then, try to forget that this money ever makes it into your finances. This is often referred to as the ""pay yourself first"" principle. You won't hit your budget exactly every month. Nobody does. In fact, it's more likely that no month will have you hit the budget exactly. Try to stay under your budgeted expenses, and when you get your next pay, unless you have a large bill coming up soon, transfer whatever remains into your savings account. Spend some time at the end of each month looking back at how well you managed to match your budget, and make any necessary adjustments. If you do this regularly, it won't take very long, and it will greatly increase the value of the budget you have made. Should I use credit cards for spending to reap benefits? Only if you would have made those purchases anyway, and have the money on hand to pay the bill in full when it comes due. Using credit cards to pay for things is a great convenience in many cases. Using credit cards to pay for things that you couldn't pay for using cash instead, is a recipe for financial disaster. People have also mentioned investment accounts, brokerage accounts, etc. This is good to have in mind, but in my opinion, the exact ""savings vehicle"" (type of place where you put the money) is a lot less important than getting into the habit of saving regularly and not touching that money. That is why I recommend just a savings account: if you miscalculate, forgot a large bill coming up, or for any other (good!) reason need access to the money, it won't be at a time when the investment has dropped 15% in value and you face a large penalty for withdrawing from your retirement savings. Once you have a good understanding of how much you are able to save reliably, you can divert a portion of that into other savings vehicles, including retirement savings. In fact, at that point, you probably should. Also, I suggest making a list of every single bill you pay regularly, its amount, when you paid it last time, and when you expect the next one to be due. Some bills are easy to predict (""$234 rent is due the 1st of every month""), and some are more difficult (""the electricity bill is due on the 15th of the month after I use the electricity, but the amount due varies greatly from month to month""). This isn't to know exactly how much you will have to pay, but to ensure that you aren't surprised by a bill that you didn't expect."


"If it is planned, then one can get a Bankers Check payable overseas; if destination is known. 1.) What will happen to the money? It will eventually go to Government as escheating. Unlcaimed.org can help you trace the funds and recover it. 2.) Will the banks close the accounts?   3.) After how much time will the banks close the accounts? Eventually Yes. If there is no activity [Note the definition of activity is different, A credit interest is not considered as activity, a authentic phone call / correspondence to change the address or any servicing request is considered activity] for a period of One year, the account is classified as ""Dormant"". Depending on state, after a period of 3-5 years, it would be inactive and the funds escheated. i.e. handed over to Government. 4.) Is there anything else to do? Any ideas? Before leaving? Try keeping it active by using internet banking or credit / debit cards linked to the account. These will be valid activities.  5.) Is there any way to send a relative to the US with any kind of paper of power, to unfreeze the accounts? 6.) The banks say they would need a power of attorney, but does that person actually need to be an attorney in the US, or can it simply be   a relative WITH a paper (a paper that says power of attorney) or what   is a power of attorney exactly, is it an actual attorney person, or   just a paper? 7.) Is there any other way to unfreeze the accounts? Although I can confirm first hand; I think there would be an exception process if a person cannot travel to the Bank. It could even be that a person is in some remote state, not well etc and can't travel in person. I think if you are out of country, you could walk-in to an US embassy and provide / sign relevant documents there and get it attested. Although for different purpose, I know a Power of Attorney being created in other country and stamped / verified by US embassy and sent it over to US. This was almost a decade back. Not sure about it currently."


"As the others said, you're doing everything right. So, at this it's not a matter of what you should do, it's a matter of what do you want to do? What would make you the happiest?  So, what would you like to do most with that extra money? The point is, since you're already doing everything right with the rest of your money, there's really nothing you can do that's wrong with this money. Except using it on something that increases your monthly expenses, like a down payment on a car.  In fact, there's no reason you have to do anything ""sensible"" with this money at all. You could blow it at nightclubs if you wanted to, and that would be perfectly ok. In fact, since you've got everything else covered, why not ""invest"" it in making some memories? How about vacations to exotic and rugged places, while you're still young enough to enjoy them?"


"Some reasons I take low-interest loans are: Leverage. If the loan's rate is low enough, then I can invest the cash in something fairly low-risk, and make more money than I pay in interest. The interest rate has to be pretty low, say below 4% or so. My auto loan is low enough and my home loan is low enough if you count the tax deduction. Obviously you have to invest in something riskier than cash here, though. And consider taxes, which lower the rate you're paying on a home loan, but also lower the returns you're getting on any bonds you invest in. Liquidity and flexibility. If I have N thousands in cash instead of tied up in my house, then I could use that money to survive many months of unemployment for example, or handle any other emergency. But if you become unemployed or have some other emergency, it will be too late to get a home loan. Credit rating. It's good to use some credit, just so you can get more if you need it. But this isn't a reason to take a particular loan, just a reason to have some kind of credit card or loan. Budgeting. When budgeting, it's best to think of expenses such as cars and houses in terms of a monthly cost, so you can see how they nudge out or allow other spending. (When negotiating with a car dealer, of course, use total cost so you don't get screwed by him messing with interest rates.) I wouldn't take a loan just to ease the budgeting (you can always manually ""amortize"") but it's a nice side effect. For credit cards, there are more buyer protections and you get a nice transaction log (again useful in budgeting). Also you don't have to carry around cash, or worry about your checking account balance. So credit cards are just convenient. But even though my card has a very low rate, it isn't low enough that I want to keep a balance month-to-month, so I don't use credit cards to actually borrow money."


@Tim - in this case, a futures contract isn't like an options contract. It's simply a method of entering into an agreement for delivery at a future date.  While the speculators appear to have taken over, there are practical examples of use of the futures market.  I am a gold miner and I see that my cost is $1200/oz given my quality of ore. I see the price of gold at $1600 and instead of worrying that if it goes too low, I run at a loss, I take advantage and sell contracts to match my production for the next year (or as long as the contracts go, I forget how far out gold futures are).  Of course I give up the higher price if gold goes higher, but this scenarion isn't speculation, it's a business decision.  The bread maker, on the other hand, might buy wheat futures to guarantee his prices for the next year.


As far as I can tell, it works like this: (Note, I am assuming you were 18 on Jan 1 2009) Contribution limits: So by the end of 2012, you will have been allowed to contribute $20,000 of new money. You say you've contributed $10,000, so you still can contribute another $10,000 of new money this year (But let's assume you do not...). Now, your original $10,000 has grown to $25,000.  You can withdraw this without penalty.  Next year, you will be given an allotment of another $5000 of new money (bringing your total lifetime limit to $25,000 - $10,000 = $15,000 new money) PLUS, you will be allowed to re-contribute up to $25,000 of OLD money. Of course, the government doesn't make a distinction between old and new money, so the net effect is (assuming a 25k withdrawal): 2012 limit: $10 000 2013 limit: $40 000 less 2012 contributions. From http://www.cra-arc.gc.ca/tx/ndvdls/tpcs/tfsa-celi/cntrbtn-eng.html: The TFSA contribution room is made up of: From this wording, it means the 25 k you withdraw will go to the 2013 contribution room (bullet 3).  If you don't re-contribute, it will roll over into the 2014 contribution room (Under bullet 2)   For correctness, I must add that I did not include any indexing of the annual amount.


"A non-trading stock or non-marketable security or unlisted security is one that does not trade continually on an exchange. For tax purposes, this can mean a whole new ball of wax which I would prefer the experts address with an edit to this answer or a new answer. For financial accounting purposes, this is when, say, one owns shares in an unlisted corporation and should be treated very carefully less one delude oneself. For trading stock, the value can be known immediately by checking any valid data provider's price and marking to market.  For non-trading stock, the value has to be ""marked to model"".  This can get one into Enron sized trouble. In this case, it's best to either leave the value of the stock at the purchase price and recognize gains upon sale, use a price from another honest transaction by third parties which are most likely difficult to attain, or to use some shorthand measure like applying the market P/E. Be wary of strangely high figures for value from the purchase price by using a market average, and don't throw away the shares just yet if a strangely low one arises.  This method can lead to strange results."


From the etoro website: In the financial trading industry, rollover is the interest paid or earned for holding currency overnight. Each currency has an interest rate associated with it, and because currencies are traded in pairs, every trade involves two different interest rates. If the interest rate on the currency you bought is lower than the interest rate on the currency you sold, then you will pay rollover fees. If the interest rate on the currency you bought is higher than the interest rate of the currency/commodity you sold, then you will earn rollover fees. http://www.etoro.com/blog/product-updates/05062014/important-upcoming-change-fee-structure/


If you break down the math it comes out to a loss to the IRS. Does every Fortune 500 store profits over seas? How much does Comcast store? Because they pay 33% in taxes. Paying 15 comes to a loss for the IRS. These companies are not improving on anything anywhere. Record profits and yet it's not invested back anywhere that helps the citizens. Why would it be invested after they have more money? Apple didn't when they made 30b, 40b, 50b 60b now almost 70b profit after taxes. Why would they if they make 80b?


Consider consulting a fee-only Certified Financial Planner. It will be worth the money to have your game-plan looked at by somebody who is trained and experienced in such matters, helping you avoid big mistakes and making the right decision for your personal situation. It should cost only a relatively small percentage of the overall inheritance.


"This is most likely protecting Square's relationship with Visa/Mastercard/AMEX/etc. Credit card companies typically charge their customers a much higher interest rate with no grace period on cash advances (withdrawals made from an ATM using a credit card). If you use Square to generate something that looks like a ""merchandise transaction"" but instead just hand over a wad of banknotes, you're forcing the credit card company to apply their cheaper ""purchases"" interest rate on the transaction, plus award any applicable cashback offers†, etc. Square would absolutely profit off of this, but since it would result in less revenue for the partner credit card companies, that would quickly sour the relationship and could even result in them terminating their agreements with Square altogether. † This is the kind of activity they are trying to prevent:  1. Bill yourself $5,000 for ""merchandise"", but instead give yourself cash.  2. Earn 1.5% cashback ($75).  3. Use $4,925 of the cash and a $75 statement credit to pay your credit card statement.  4. Pocket the difference.  5. Repeat. Note, the fees involved probably negate any potential gain shown in this example, but I'm sure with enough creative thinking someone would figure out a way to game the system if it wasn't expressly forbidden in the terms of service"


>u telling me there were that much savings and reserve in the system?  Yes. You're telling me there wasn't? The loans were bundled and *sold to investors* to get more capital to loan. It was not magically created as you seem to think.  [There were about $4trillion saved in the US at the time](http://research.stlouisfed.org/fred2/series/WSAVNS). The mortgages were sold all over the world, where there is easily more trillions of savings and reserve.   You still have not addressed M2 being around 10x M1. You keep floundering but not addressing anything of substance.


"Well, the first one is based on the ""Pert"" formula for continuously-compounded present value, while the second one is the periodically-compounded variant.  Typically, the continuously-compounded models represent the ideal; as the compounding period of time-valued money shrinks towards zero, and the discount rate (or interest rate if positive) stays constant over the time period examined, the periodic equation's results approach that of the continuously-compounded equation. Those two assumptions (a constant rate and continuous balance adjustment from interest) that allow simplification to the continuous form are usually incorrect in real-world finance; virtually all financial institutions accrue interest monthly, for a variety of reasons including simpler bookkeeping and less money paid or owed in interest. They also, unless prohibited by contract, accrue this interest based on a rate that can change daily or even more granularly based on what financial markets are doing. Most often, the calculation is periodic based on the ""average daily balance"" and an agreed rate that, if variable, is based on the ""average daily rate"" over the previous observed period. So, you should use the first form for fast calculation of a rough value based on estimated variables. You should use the second form when you have accurate periodic information on the variables involved. Stated alternately, use the first form to predict the future, use the second form in retrospect to the past."


They can't. It looks like they are using the average numbers per family for the cost of education, fire, police, and emergency services. It also says subsidized housing...but I can't confirm that non-citizens can get subsidized housing (without breaking any laws).  Personally, I would rather our firefighters not have to check ID's before they do their job. Also, I would much rather have educated immigrants than denying them education and then dealing with all of the problems that come with lack of education.


"Normally these are only generated upon an acquisition.  When you acquire a business, all the tangible and intangible assets are market to ""fair value"", with goodwill as the plug to total to the actual purchase price.    So the cash out the door is the purchase price.  Then the asset is amortized.  In the normal course you wouldn't create the intangible - the sales people salary would just be an expense."


This is more a question about economics than about personal finance. The answer, though, is straight-forward. Samsung makes enough profit on the phones that they are willing to eat the costs of a 0% loan, with the attendant risk of non-payment and the loss due to inflation. By offering financing, they expect to sell more phones. So, it's a slight cost to Samsung, but one they can easily afford due to the markups and increased volume of sales.


It would be very unusual (and very erroneous) to have a company's stock be included in the Long Term Investments on the balance sheet.  It would cause divergent feedback loops which would create unrepresentative financial documents and stock prices.  That's how your question would be interpreted if true.  This is not the case. Stock prices are never mentioned on the financial documents.  The stock price you hear being reported is information provided by parties who are not reporting as part of the company.  The financial documents are provided by the company.  They will be audited internally and externally to make sure that they can be presented to the market. Stock prices are quoted and arbitrated by brokers at the stock exchange or equivalent service.  They are negotiated and the latest sale tells you what it has sold for.  What price this has been reported never works its way onto the financial document. So what use are stock prices are for those within the company?  The stock price is very useful for guessing how much money they can raise by issuing stock or buying back stock.  Raising money is important for expansion of the company or to procure money for when avenues of debt are not optimal; buying back stock is important if major shareholders want more control of the company.


Can't be true.  I read r/economy and I know **real** inflation is 15%, **real** unemployment is 25%, we're in a double-dip recession, a second tsunami of mortgage foreclosure is coming, hundreds of cities are going to default on their bonds, and ...  And we're all going to die on the side of the road.  Alone.  In the rain.  Edit: [See](http://www.reddit.com/r/economy/comments/2dm13e/job_surge_suggests_higher_wages_are_coming/cjr00wh)?  And this guy is an optimist.


">You call me ""naïve"" for being concerned for my fellow man? How is that ""naïve""?   Being concerned for people isn't naive, it is naive to think slightly above minimum wage retail employees ever had a fighting chance. Unskilled/uneducated workers are always the first to go.  >It simply makes me sad that all these humans will suffer.   But honestly, retail employees are at the lowest rungs of these issues and obviously the most at risk and always have been.  McDonalds would be hurting too if not for fast food being cheaper than whole food and America's addictiong to cheap fast food in large quantities.    >That doesn't make me naïve - that makes me a decent human being.  You are naive to think these people ever had a chance to begin with. Their jobs depend on retail profitability which has been steady and now quickly declining.   What do you suggest? Welfare? Unemployment doles? Will that make society better off?    >The fact that you are willing to call me names simply because I express concern for these people speaks for itself. The fact that I've been downvoted heavily for saying it speaks badly of the compassion of the people reading this subreddit.  Naive isnt a particularly nasty name, but perhaps I should call you gullible. It isnt about compassion as much as ignorance to the facts of life.  America used to be about limitless profit so bad business models survive.  But when your business model is based on zero sum profitability in an evolving retail world where Sears has NOT been an innovator and has instead lost marketshare to more innovative companies. It is naive and gullible to think the Sears' employees ever had a chance.  The good news is a $9/hr job is easier to find than a $100,000/year job. These Sears employees can go work at Khols or Panera Bread for very little loss in income."


Just playing devil's avocado here, but if you can't stop smoking weed long enough to find a job then it's really your problem. Almost every job I've applied to has had a drug test, including office jobs. If you can't lay off the devil's lettuce for 2 goddamn weeks and maybe drink some fucking water then what do you expect?              This is coming from a chronic weed smoker.


With most of the schools following the Phonics method, Sheetal Academy in Chembur is no different, we to use the Phonics approach and we are considered as the Best Phonics Classes in Chembur. One of the main benefits of using phonics is that it teaches children to decipher words on their own, which means they ultimately need less help to read, making them independent learners and efficient readers. Another advantage of learning phonics is that it gives children a foundation for learning new words, thereby building vocabulary and communication skills. Empowered with the knack of Phonics application, children turn out to be fast and fluent readers.


Ultra-low rates can spur an unhealthy boon in M&A deals/Corporate takeovers as management (defensively) and raiders (offensively) lever up cheaply to acquire companies. This can be problematic down the line when takeovers/large investments (that were funded with cheap debt) dont pan out and interest rates rise, and with it the cost of servicing that debt.


"A few ideas: If you can find cards that don't have fees, you could use re-loadable debit/gift cards as your ""envelopes"". You can write the purpose for each card on its face. Carrying around more than a few cards will get unwieldy fast -- how many categories do you need? Use the rewards card strategy that was recommended to you. Put all of your spending on this. Carry a slip of paper in your wallet for each of your categories of spending. When you charge against a category, punch/mark/tear off a piece of the paper according to some scheme that will allow you to track the amount. You don't have to carry the envelopes around with you all the time. You wouldn't carry around the grocery envelope all the time -- unless you often just randomly decide to go grocery shopping while you're out and about. When you are going out and know you need to have cash for a certain purpose, pull some money from your envelope, put a paper clip around it with maybe a slip of paper, and put it into your wallet. You could carry around a few different categories of money this way without too much hassle. This requires planning your spending for the day. (The best way to avoid spending money is to not have it.)"


"I feel like any ""mental health"" issue that can be solved in two days isn't the kind of thing that warrants missing work.  And if a person is just stressed the fuck out and needs to unwind a little, *just say that -* Tumblr already exists; we don't need more people self diagnosing their idiotic and pretend disorders.  On top of that, since everybody knows this isn't ""real"" in the way that alcoholism or depression is real (though I don't doubt something's bothering her) all this is is a big ""dear everybody, I can't really handle my job.  Remember me next time there's a layoff!""  This has given everyone too much information, it's too much detail for her boss, and it's too fucking ""omg gimme hugs"" garbage for her CEO."


"Here's the slippage I was talking about - - - this is when I was trading DXO or around that time.  the ultra shares----interesting read at least.  ""Based on data from October 22, 2008 to January 26, 2009, the S&P 500 had a daily standard deviation of 3.62%.  If you were to invest in SDS, an UltraShort ETF which has the S&P 500 as its underlying index, and were to hold it for a year, you should expect to lose between 34% and 74% of your money, if the S&P 500 is flat for that period.  This assumes that there are no transaction costs, and that the expense ratio is 0% (in fact, it's 0.91%.)  My experiment also assumed that daily stock market returns follow a normal distribution.  In fact, the the distribution of daily stock market returns is leptokurtotic (it has fat tails.)  According to my mathematical intuition (the Ph.D. is in math, in case you were curious,) if I had performed the experiment with a leptokurtotic distribution, the losses would have been larger.  Obviously, this could be checked, but the results are bad enough as it is.""   http://www.altenergystocks.com/archives/2009/02/ultrapromises_fall_short.html"


"Is all interest on a first time home deductible on taxes? What does   that even mean? If I pay $14,000 in taxes will My taxes be $14,000   less. Will my taxable income by that much less? If you use the standard deduction in the US (assuming United States), you will have 0 benefit from a mortgage.   If you itemize deductions, then your interest paid (not principal) and your property tax paid is deductible and reduces your income for tax purposes.  If your marginal tax rate is 25% and you pay $10000 in interest and property tax, then when you file your taxes, you'll owe (or get a refund) of $2500 (marginal tax rate * (amount of interest + property tax)). I have heard the term ""The equity on your home is like a bank"". What   does that mean? I suppose I could borrow using the equity in my home   as collateral? If you pay an extra $500 to your mortgage, then your equity in your house goes up by $500 as well.   When you pay down the principal by $500 on a car loan (depreciating asset) you end up with less than $500 in value in the car because the car's value is going down.   When you do the same in an appreciating asset, you still have that money available to you though you either need to sell or get a loan to use that money. Are there any other general benefits that would drive me from paying   $800 in rent, to owning a house? There are several other benefits. These are a few of the positives, but know that there are many negatives to home ownership and the cost of real estate transactions usually dictate that buying doesn't make sense until you want to stay put for 5-7 years.   A shorter duration than that usually are better served by renting.  The amount of maintenance on a house you own is almost always under estimated by new home owners."


"If you sell a stock, with no distributions, then your gain is taxable under §1001.  But not all realized gains will be recognized as taxable.  And some gains which are arguably not realized, will be recognized as taxable. The stock is usually a capital asset for investors, who will generate capital gains under §1(h), but dealers, traders, and hedgers will get different treatment.  If you are an investor, and you held the stock for a year or more, then you can get the beneficial capital gain rates (e.g. 20% instead of 39.6%).  If the asset was held short-term, less than a year, then your tax will generally be calculated at the higher ordinary income rates.  There is also the problem of the net investment tax under §1411.  I am eliding many exceptions, qualifications, and permutations of these rules. If you receive a §316 dividend from a stock, then that is §61 income.  Qualified dividends are ordinary income but will generally be taxed at capital gains rates under §1(h)(11).  Distributions in redemption of your stock are usually treated as sales of stock.  Non-dividend distributions (that are not redemptions) will reduce your basis in the stock to zero (no tax due) and past zero will be treated as gain from a sale. If you exchange stock in a tax-free reorganization (i.e. contribute your company stock in exchange for an acquirer's stock), you have what would normally be considered a realized gain on the exchange, but the differential will not be recognized, if done correctly. If you hold your shares and never sell them, but you engage in other dealings (short sales, options, collars, wash sales, etc.) that impact those shares, then you can sometimes be deemed to have recognized gain on shares that were never sold or exchanged. A more fundamental principle of income tax design is that not all realized gains will be recognized.  IRC §1001(c) says that all realized gains are recognized, except as otherwise provided; that ""otherwise"" is substantial and far-ranging."


Laptop LCD Screen--Laptoplcdscreenstore.com is a world recognized laptop screen store where you can purchase laptop screen of popular brands such as Dell, Acer, Compaq, LENOVO, Asus and many more. Providing an unmatchable quality at unbeatable prices, the store offers special deals on selected laptop LCD screens exclusively for you.


"First thing I'd say is don't start with investing. The foundation of solid finances is cash flow. Making more than you spend, reliably; knowing where your money goes; having a system that works for you to make sure you make more than you spend. Until you have that, your focus may as well be on getting there, because you can't fix much else about your finances until you fix this. A number you want to know is your percentage of income saved, and a good goal for that is about 15%, with 10-12% going to retirement savings and the rest to shorter-term goals and emergency fund and so forth. (Of course the right percentage here depends on your goals and situation, but for most people this is a kind of minimum savings rate to be in good shape.) Focus on your savings rate. This is your profitability, if you view yourself as a business. If it's crappy or negative, your finances will be a mess. Two ways to improve it are to spend less or to improve your earnings power. Doing both is even better. The book Your Money or Your Life by Dominguez and Robin is good for showing how to obsessively focus on cash flow, even though you may not share their zeal for early retirement. A simpler exercise than what they recommend: take 3 months of your checking and credit card statements, go through each expenditure and put them in a spreadsheet column, SUM() that column. Then add up 3 months of after-tax paychecks. Divide both numbers by three and compare. (The 3 months is to average out your spending, which probably varies a lot by month.) After positive cash flow and savings rate, the next thing I'd go through is insurance. Risk management for what you have. This can include checking you have all the important insurance coverages (homeowner's/renter's, auto, potentially umbrella, term life, disability, and of course health insurance, are some highlights); and also adjusting all your policies to be most cost-effective, which usually means raising the deductible if you have a good emergency fund. Often you can raise the deductible on policies you have, and use the savings to add more catastrophe coverage (such as term life if you didn't have it, or boosting the liability protection on your homeowner's, or whatever). Remember, cover catastrophes as cheaply and comprehensively as possible, but don't worry about reimbursement for non-catastrophic expenses. I like this book, Smart and Simple Financial Strategies for Busy People by Jane Bryant Quinn, because it covers all the main personal finance topics, not just investing; and because it is smart and simple. All the main stuff to think about is in the one book and the advice is solid and uncomplicated. Investing can truly be dead easy; most people would be fine with this advice: Honestly, I do micro-optimize and undermine my investing, and I'm guessing most people on this forum do. But it's not something I could defend objectively as a good use of time. It probably is necessary to do some reading to feel financially literate and confident in an investment plan, but the reading isn't really because a good plan is complicated, it's more to understand all the complicated things that you don't need to do, since that's how you'll know not to do them. ;-) Especially when salespeople and publications and TV are telling you over and over and over that you need to know a bunch of crap and do a bunch of things. People who have a profitable ""business of me"" are the ones who end up with a lot of money. Not people who spend a lot of time screwing with investments. (People who get rich investing invest professionally - as their ""business of me"" - they don't goof around with their 401k after work.) Financial security is all about your savings rate, i.e. your personal profitability. No shortcuts, other than lotteries and rich uncles."


If your business is a Sole Proprietorship and meets the criteria, then you would file form Schedule C. In this case you can deduct all eligible business expenses, regardless of how you pay for them (credit/debit/check/cash). The fact that it was paid for using a business credit card isn't relevant as long as it is a true business expense. The general rules apply: Yes - if you sustain a net loss, that will carry over to your personal tax return. Note: even though it isn't necessary to use a business credit card for business expenses, it's still an extremely good idea to do so, for a variety of reasons.


If cost was your only concern then yes, that is true.  But there is a tension between costs and keeping your customers happy.  This is especially true in a service based business like a restaurant where customer satisfaction can be directly correlated to employee satisfaction.


> but if the Bitcoin is deemed currency  I struggle to see how Bitcoin specifically links to   > helps fund terrorist organizations  You know cash is used (Like seriously its the mobs favorite form of payment) in the same way and Bitcoin at least has the feature of being traceable right?


This question came up again (Living in Florida working remotely - NY employer withholds NYS taxes - Correct or Incorrect?) and the poster on the new version didn't find the existing answers to be adequate, so I'm adding a new answer.   NYS will tax this income if the arrangement is for the convenience of the employee. If the arrangement is necessary to complete the work, then you should have no NYS tax. New York state taxes all New York-source salary and wage income of nonresident employees when the arrangement is for convenience rather than by necessity (Laws of New York, § 601(e), 20 NYCRR 132.18). Source: http://www.journalofaccountancy.com/issues/2009/jun/20091371.html Similar text can also be found here: http://www.koscpa.com/newsletter-article/state-tax-consequences-telecommuting/ The NYS tax document governing this situation seems to be TSB-M-06(5)I. I looked at this page from NYS that was mentioned in the answer by @littleadv. That language does at first glance seem to lead to a different answer, but the ruling in the tax memo seems to say that if you're out of state only for your convenience then the services were performed in NYS for NYS tax purpose. From the memo: However, any allowance claimed for days worked outside New York State must be based upon the performance of services which of necessity, as distinguished from convenience, obligate the employee to out-of- state duties in the service of his employer.


"His entire ""opinion"" is really just backing up Damore. Only in the last two paragraphs does he even mention what the actual title of the article is about where he goes on to say:  >Either Pichai is unprepared to understand the research, is not capable of handling complex data flows or was simply too afraid to stand up to a mob.  >Regardless of which weakness applies, this episode suggests he should seek a non leadership position.  Brilliant work, Mr. Brooks. Your analysis is spot on and not only should Damore not have been fired, but Pichai should resign as CEO of Google because of it. A better message would be sent to Google's customers, employees and shareholders by doing so. /s"


I'm assuming if Greece were to leave or be asked to leave to EMU/EURO currency, they would have to negotiate some kind of a FX Rate. I'm just taking a wildly uneducated stab at this, but i would bet they would negotiate for x% devaluation and then let the market do what it will.


"So a guy that went to a shitty college moved to an $800 plus per month apartment in Manhattan to be an actor and applied for low skill jobs near minimum wage. That's the shittiest plan I've ever heard.  “When I first walked into Express, I said, ‘Oh my God, this place is awesome and there’s music and it looks like a happening place"".  Anyone want to claim that he's not an idiot?"


So you cant compare one model of Tesla to one model of any of its main competitors, you have to compare it to all of their cars?  That doesn't make any sense.  I know you can see that high end cars are where the profits of most companies come from.  It's not like they are making billions from a 15,000 dollar Malibu.  At this point, even if the other major manufactures could get off their collective butts, they couldn't build in the supercharger infrastructure fast enough to catch up in any meaningful manner.


I noticed that as well. It's practically a direct copy paste from the post, even the intro making it sound as if the content was written specifically for medium.    Are both articles written by the same authors? If not this seems somewhat unethical.


"There's actually a lot of smaller questions in your question, so I'll answer just a few here. The standard bond index for high yield corporates is the Barclays Capital High Yield Corporate index, which is the basis for JNK.  I am not familiar with the index behind HYG, the ""iBoxx $ Liquid High Yield index."" The ETFs are managed quantitatively to try to track the index as closely as possible.  AFAIK these ETFs do not attempt to take active positions. New issues are typically purchased with cash which is constantly coming in from interest and principal payments from other bonds.  There is rarely a need to sell bonds just to buy new issues.  Selling bonds is more common when a fund is experiencing redemptions. These ETFs and the high yield bonds they buy are not derivatives (your question seems to be confused on that point). The US Treasury is not directly involved in any way.  They are indirectly involved, as they are indirectly involved in US equities markets or world markets for that matter, although perhaps they have greater influence in the bond world. Moody's has extensive studies of default rates by ratings."


"This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](https://www.nytimes.com/2017/07/25/upshot/maybe-weve-been-thinking-about-the-productivity-slump-all-wrong.html?smid=re-share) reduced by 82%. (I'm a bot) ***** > Just maybe, if the labor market tightens and good workers are harder to find - and wages rise - that will be the impetus to get companies to consider more of those big-ticket innovations that generate productivity growth.  > You could imagine the same thing happening if wages rose because of market forces; that same fast food restaurant might invest in kiosks and robots if the labor market were so tight that no workers were willing to take the job for $10. If you look at long-term patterns of productivity growth, they roughly fit this idea, that a booming job market tends to be followed by a productivity boom, and that deep recessions are followed by productivity slumps.  > In this way of thinking about productivity, inventors and business innovators are always cooking up better ways to do things, but it takes a labor shortage and high wages to coax firms to deploy the investment it takes to actually put those innovations into widespread use.   ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/6s3yzv/maybe_we\u00e2ve_been_thinking_about_the_productivity/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ ""Version 1.65, ~185009 tl;drs so far."") | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr ""PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome."") | *Top* *keywords*: **productivity**^#1 **wage**^#2 **worker**^#3 **growth**^#4 **market**^#5"


Did you know that bill-pay is a third party system? The way they run it encourages multiple overdrafts, Just last week I had 150$ in fees. Not to mention they recently had a class action they lost in which they were fucking over service members with home loans. I've been with them since 2002, they're just as shady as every other institute that charges you money to use your money.


China is doing this more out of necessity than any futuristic, environmentalist mindset. They're starting to see the writing on the wall - they will suffer some of the most damage due to the crap we as a species have put our planet through.


"Schwab is a highly diversified operation and has a multitude of revenue streams.  Schwab obviously thinks it can make more off you than you will cost in ATM fees and it's probably safe to assume most Schwab clients use more services than the ATM card. It's not worthwhile to discuss the accounting of ATM/Debit/Credit card fee norms because for a diversified operation it's about the total relationship, not whether each customer engagement is specifically profitable.   People who get Schwab accounts soley for the ATM fee refunds are in the minority.  In 2016 10-k filing Schwab posted $1.8B in net earnings, 10 million client accounts with a total of $2.78T in client assets.  A couple grand in ATM fees over several years is a rounding error.  ""ATM"" doesn't even appear in the 2016 10-K."


"You have a very narrow, short-term view of things. It's bad for society in the long-run. ""Get your cash now, fuck everyone else.""  That's the way it is, I suppose ... and that's why things are falling apart all around us."


"Also here's a source for the $3.7 trillion number.      http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-12-08/u-s-municipal-bond-market-28-larger-than-estimated-federal-reserve-says.html    It's not 'incorrect data'.        EDIT:  Furthermore, in order to know the ""extent"" of the crime (your own admission) we NEED to know the size of the entire market otherwise you can't have any perspective or determine extent.  So there's no reason it shouldn't be mentioned in the article."


You'd think people would understand how capital and R&D expenditures work on /r/business. If this wasn't a default sub way back in the day, I don't think we'd have this as the top comment about a company that exclusively sells 6-figure cars with 5-figure margins.


Yet the underlying truth is the same. Bid fixing. We know it was done on a wide scale and we know it illegal. It doesn't matter what you think of the author you can verify that yourself and the court agreed.  You can make all the excuse you want but if all you want to do is quibble about why he shot out one number for the total bond market instead of muni bonds from 2007-2008 (actually one of the least relevant points to the story no matter which number you use) then you're missing the forest for the trees or your going out of your way to excuse widespread illegal business activity. Bid fixing is bid fixing. That it only impacted the smaller mini bond market isn't something that negates the larger story here.


"House prices do not go up.  Land prices in countries with growing economies tend to go up.  The price of the house on the land generally depreciates as it wears out. Houses require money; they are called money pits for a reason.  You have to replace HVAC periodically, roofs, repairs, rot, foundation problems, leaks, electrical repair; and all of that just reduces the rate at which the house (not the land) loses value. To maintain value (of the house proper), you need to regularly rebuild parts of the house.  People expect different things in Kitchens, bathrooms, dining rooms, doors, bedrooms today than they do in the past, and wear on flooring and fixtures accumulate over time. The price of land and is going to be highly determined by the current interest rates.  Interest rates are currently near zero; if they go up by even a few percent, we can expect land prices to stop growing and start shrinking, even if the economy continues to grow.  So the assumption that land+house prices go up is predicated on the last 35 years of constant rigorous economic growth mixed with interest rate decreases.  This is a common illusion, that people assume the recent economic past is somehow the way things are ""naturally"".  But we cannot decrease interest rates further, and rigorous economic growth is far from guaranteed. This is because people price land based on their carrying cost; the cost you have to spend out of your income to have ownership of it.  And that is a function of interest rates.  Throw in no longer expecting land values to constantly grow and second-order effects that boost land value also go away. Depending on the juristiction, a mortgage is a hugely leveraged investment.  It is akin to taking 10,000$, borrowing 40,000$ and buying stock.  If the stock goes up, you make almost 5x as much money; if it goes down, you lose 5x as much.  And you owe a constant stream of money to service the debt on top of that. If you want to be risk free, work out how you'd deal with the value of your house dropping by 50% together with losing your job, getting a job paying half as much after a period of 6 months unemployment.  The new job requires a 1.5 hour commute from your house.  Interest rates going up to 12% and your mortgage is up for renewal (in 15 years - they climbed gradually over the time, say), optionally. That is a medium-bad situation (not a great depression scale problem), but is a realistic ""bad luck"" event that could happen to you.  Not likely, but possible. Can you weather it?  If so, the risk is within your bounds.  Note that going bankrupt may be a reasonable plan to such a bit of bad luck.  However, note that had you not purchased the house, you wouldn't be bankrupt in that situation. It is reasonably likely that house prices will, after you spend ~3% of the construction cost of the house per year, pay the mortgage on the land+house, grow at a rate sufficient to offset the cost of renting and generate an economically reasonable level of profit.  It is not a risk-free investment. If someone tries to sell you a risk-free investment, they are almost certainly wrong."


"Is evaluating stocks just a loss of time if the stock is traded very much? Not at all! Making sound investment decisions based on fundamental analysis of companies will help you to do decide whether a given company is right for you and your risk appetite. Investing is not a zero-sum game, and you can achieve a positive long-term (or short-term, depending on what you're after) outcome for yourself without compromising your ability to sleep at night if you take the time to become acquainted with the companies that you are investing in. How can you ensure that your evaluation is more precise than the   market ones which consists of the evaluation of thousands of people   and professionals? For the average individual, the answer is often simply ""you probably cannot"". But you don't have to set the bar that high - what you can do is ensure that your evaluation gives you a better understanding of your investment and allows you to better align it with your investment objectives. You don't have to beat the professionals, you just have to lose less money than you would by paying them to make the decision for you."


"Definitely depends on the field. I work in derivatives (but not on the pure quant side, though), and that's one of the fields that tends to hire the most mathsy guys. Basically involves applying a lot of stochastic calculus and probabilistic concepts to practical pricing problems.   If you want a nice little application from a math perspective (but not necessarily practical), check out ""A Closed-Form Solution for Options with Stochastic Volatility"" by Heston (1992). Should give a decent idea of how typically the problem solving process works in derivative-land: start with a practical problem relating to a probabilistic/modelling concept (eg implied distribution of expected returns) -> apply some math -> come up with some sort of solution.  *edit: clarification 1st paragraph"


for news, I go to [this news aggregater](http://drudgereport.com/), which is number one with a **billion** page views a month  notice below the links (3 columns) there are names of prominent people who write important articles.  clicking any of those takes you to their most recent works (many are daily)


"If the wording is ""within 10 days"" then its 10 days. Calendar days. Otherwise they would put ""10 business days"", for example. Usually, if you need to do something within 10 days from today, the first day to count is today. I would expect ""within"" to mean that you can fund in any of the days up to the 10th. But that's me, trying to read English as English. Why don't you call the bank and ask them?"


A few reasons make sense: They have a defined process for rentals, risk assessment, and customer credit. Especially for a large corporation, making changes to that process is not trivial, adds risk/uncertainty, and will be costly. Such changes for a relatively small customer base might not makes sense. Many rental companies DO allow you to rent with a debit card. Why do some businesses take cash only?  With a debit card, there is no third party guarantee. With a credit card, the cash is coming from a well-established third party who will pay (assuming no disputes) and has a well-established history of paying. Even if the merchant holds your account, it is still your cash under the control of you and your bank until the deposit clears the merchants bank. It is not surprising they view that as more risk and potentially not worth hassling with debit.


Here, you can get that service whatever you want in the best location. We organize the professional wedding engagements and more special party. As you know, everyone wants unique and fabulous party which is mind blowing party with our party organizer. Make the professional party with our unique wedding engagements west palm beach that's offer everything. There are so many options to celebrate the party. But, before that you should choose the best located area in Florida.


If you look at a trade grid you can see how this happens. If there are enough bids to cover all shares currently on the sell side at a certain price, those shares will be bought and increased price quotes will be shown for the bids and ask. If there are enough bids to cover this price, those will get bought and higher prices will be shown and this process will repeat until the sell side has more power than the buy side. It seems like this process is going on all day long with momentum either on the upside or downside. But I think that much of this bidding and selling is automatic and is being done by large trading firms and high tech computers. I also feel that many of these bids and asks are already programmed to appear once there is a price change. So once one price gets bought, computers will put in higher bids to take over asks. It's like a virtual war between trading firms and their computers. When more money is on the buy side the stock will go up, and vice versa. I sort of feel like this high-frequency trading is detrimental to the markets and doesn't really give everyone a fair shot. Retail investors do not have the resources and knowledge in order to do this sort of high frequency trading. It also seems to go against certain free market principles in my opinion.


It would be worth looking at their details as they will outline clearly what the 2% is on. Having said that the 2% will probably be on the value of the portfolio at the time the charge is calculated. (It might be that they don't levy this on the cash section of portfolio, it might be that they do.) They will usually make you sign a direct debit form so that they can take the fees straight from you. There are much better deals around than this, 2% is a huge fee if you had an portfolio that is worth £100,000 after some years the fees they would be charging you would be £2,000 a year. it's worth shopping around for a better deal, as it can prove costly to change ISA provider at later date.


"I feel like the idea ""vote with your dollars"" has been around for a long time now but very few people have enacted it seriously.  Just think how much shit businesses get away with because they have little to no actual worry of anybody taking their business elsewhere.  A serious large amount of people would have to actually do so to make an impact, but they don't.  Meanwhile we know what happens when people actually do stop buying from businesses, e.g the disappearance of brick and mortar music stores since the advent of digital.  So what's the difference?  Obviously it is convenience.  When it was convenient for people to get their music digitally they stopped buying cds.  But it is apparently too inconvenient to adjust you buying for political reasons.  Which is of course shortsighted when you take the long term consequences into account as inconveniences (and in many cases these consequences are far worse than a mere inconvenience)"


"Excellent analysis. I agree that one of the main reasons millenials are so critical of advertising is we have grown up with it our entire lives. The author calls the millenials ""digital natives,"" which is an absolute misnomer and a term I have been using for years to refer to the generation to come, the true digital natives who have been downloading apps since before they were creating memories. We ought to be called Advertising Natives. I am fully aware people are trying to sucker me out of my money for mostly frivolous causes, so I have add blinders on and generally research products before I buy them. Gone are the days of claiming something is NEW AND IMPROVED having any affect on consumers."


The author makes a quick jump here conflating Walker's efforts against public sector unions and the long-term decline in private sector unions.  These two are analytically, politically, and perhaps even morally distinct.  He then makes a correlation argument: union membership has declined and conditions for the worker have gotten worse.  He doesn't substantiate the latter point, nor does he draw a causal link between the two.  There are decent explanations for the secular decline of union membership: sectoral shifts in the economy away from labor-intensive manufacturing and toward technology, information, and service-sectors in which unions are traditionally not present nor as necessary.  > The weakening of unions has had a huge political effect as well: the realignment of the white working class. Since the ’60s, exit polls have shown that unionized blue-collar whites vote Democratic at a rate 20 to 30 percent higher than their nonunion counterparts. The decline in union membership has weakened Democrats in such heavily white, increasingly deunionized states as West Virginia and Wisconsin…  The author is placing the cart before the horse here.  White working class voters don't think that Democrats represent their interests, so why would they continue to financially support unions that guarantee that their dues will go to politicians who don't represent them?  White working class voters are going to voluntarily join associations that support their own interests and identities, and that's apparently not unions.  If the white working class thought that the Democrats represented their interests, union membership would probably not have declined to such a degree in these regions.


In Ontario, common law marriage requires 3 years of cohabitation, and doesn't give rights to property (which remains separate). I'd say in your situation you can still file as single, but I'd suggest asking your tax accountant to be sure.


First thing you need to do is  to find out whether your landlord  will accept credit card payments.  If yes, then I recommend you to try the easiest method first. Pay rent though a rent payment service.  So, you need to log in with rental service and then chose the credit card using which you would like to pay rent and schedule your rent payments.


There are two basic types of lines of credit typically offered at a retail bank: Overdraft line of credit is essentially a revolving personal loan that you can draw upon as needed or automatically draw on when you overdraw on your checking account. Typically with a commercial bank there is a fee to use the automatic overdraft in addition to interest. Some credit unions don't charge a fee. Interest is typically computed using average daily balance. A Home equity line of credit is a revolving loan that is secured against your home. Interest on home-improvement related expenses is deductible. Since the bank gets a lien on your home, the rates are low. Sometimes you can even get debit cards that will hit the line. I think these are a good idea if:


"Suppose the stock is $41 at expiry. The graph says I will lose money. I think I paid $37.20 for (net debit) at this price. I would make money, not lose. What am I missing? The `net debit' doesn't have anything to do with your P/L graph. Your graph is also showing your profit and loss for NOW and only one expiration. Your trade has two expirations, and I don't know which one that graph is showing. That is the ""mystery"" behind that graph. Regardless, your PUTs are mitigating your loss as you would expect, if you didn't have the put you would simply lose more money at that particular price range. If you don't like that particular range then you will have to consider a different contract. it was originally a simple covered call, I added a put to protect from stock going lower.. Your strike prices are all over the place and NBIX has a contract at every whole number.... there is nothing simple about this trade. You typically won't find an ""always profitable"" combination of options. Also, changes in volatility can distort your projects greatly."


"Company Distribution is attempting to show a histogram of how many companies fall within a given range so you can visualize the number of companies that meet a certain parameter.  For example if you move the ""Market Cap"" sliders so the minimum slider is just before the large rise in the distribution and move the maximum slider so it is just after the fall off in distribution, you can see that most companies have a market cap between ~5700 and ~141B."


"Whatever the percentage divisions are, I'm a big fan of keeping things in separate accounts.  This works especially well for fixed bills.  It is essentially a bank account version of the envelope method.  If I take out everything from your paycheck I know is reserved (including reserving savings), for me it is a lot easier to not even miss the money when I'm going towards ""fun"" expenditures - which come from the checking account."


"If you're willing to do a little more work and bookkeeping than just putting money into the 401(k) I would recommend the following. I note that you said you chose some funds based on performance since the expense ratios are all high. I would recommend against chasing performance because active funds will almost always falter; honor the old saw:  ""past performance is no guarantee of future returns"". Assuming the cash in your Ally account is an emergency fund, I would use it to pay off your credit card debt to avoid the interest payments. Use free cash flow in the coming months to bring the emergency fund balance back up to an acceptable level. If the Ally account is not an emergency fund, I would make it one! With no debt and an emergency fund for 3-12 months of living expenses (pick your risk tolerance), then you can concentrate on investing. Your 401(k) options are unfortunately pretty poor. With those choices I would invest this way: Once you fill up your choice of IRA, then you have the tougher decision of where to put any extra money you have to invest (if any). A brokerage account gives you the freedom of investment choices and the ability to easily pull out money in the case of a dire emergency. The 401(k) will give you tax benefits, but high fund expenses. The tax benefits are considerable, so if I were at a job where I plan on moving on in a few years, I'd fund the 401(k) up to the max with the knowledge that I'd roll the 401(k) into a rollover IRA in the (relatively) short term. If I saw myself staying at the employer for a long time (5+ years), I'd probably take the taxable account route since those high fund fees will add up over time. One you start building up a solid base, then I might look into having a small allocation in one of my accounts for ""play money"" to pick individual stocks, or start making sector bets."


so you and your friend are trying to make a federal case over the fact that he's going to have to pay $1-3 in a month's time?   [they had this rather popular series of self-help books a while back.](http://www.amazon.com/Sweat-Small-Stuff---small-Series/dp/0786881852/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1339809567&sr=8-1&keywords=don%27t+sweat+the+small+stuff) perhaps the two of you should explore it.


You can probably recover it by checking with the unclaimed property division of the state where you opened the account.  See The Office of the Comptroller of the Currency website for more information.


Trying desperately to normalize the Rating agencies before the Fed unwind so they can stamp everything AAA and pretend that all is great.  They world has not forgotten the magnitude of the Fraud these rating agencies commited and are now preparing to commit and the collusion with the regulators and banks and insurance agencies.  Who are you going to sell that shit to, entire countries went bankrupt because they bought the shit you rated AAA.  Remember Northern rock . .that was the Tip of the Ice berg    And now, 1 month before the Fed gets ready to sell the same shit, the rating agencies conveniently reappear pretending to be able to rate sovereign countries.  This is going to be a whole lot of fun


I'll point out that you don't actually have to pay your income taxes on time, just make sure to file on time.  You will be charged interest (currently 5% ann., compounded daily).  This is no big deal, I know plenty of people who do this. Note that if they pay you interest you have to report it on your taxes, but if you pay them it's not deductible.


"One practical application would be to protect yourself from a ""flash crash"" type scenario where a stock suddenly plunges down to a penny due to transient market glitches. If you had a stop-loss order that executed at a penny (for a non-penny stock) it would be probably be voided by the exchange, but you might not want to take that risk."


"Lots of questions: In general, no. Market Capitalization and Equity represent 2 different things.  Equity first, the equity of a firm is the value of the assets (what it owns) less its liabilities (what it owes) and consists (broadly) of two components - share capital (what the firm gets when it sells to investors as part of an IPO or subsequent share issue) and retained earnings (what the firm has as a result of making profits and not paying them out as dividends). This is the theoretical liquidation value of the firm - what it is worth if it stops trading, sells all its assets and pays all its debts. Market Capitalization is the current value of the future cash flow of the firm as perceived by the market - the value today of all the dividends that the firm will pay in the future for as long as it exists. This is the theoretical going concern value of the firm - what it is worth as a functioning business. In general, Market Capitalization is bigger than Equity - if it isn't the firm is worth more as scrap than as an operating business. Um ... no. If you don't have any shares then you are by definition not an owner. Having shares is what makes you an owner. What I think you mean is, is it possible for the owner(s) of a private company to sell all of its shares when it goes public? The answer is yes. It is uncommon for a start-up owner to do this but it is standard practice for ""corporate raiders"" who buy failing companies, take them private, restructure them and then take them public again - they have done their job and they are not interested in maintaining an ownership stake. Nope. See above and below. Not at all, equity is an accounting construct and market capitalization is about market sentiment. Consider the following hypothetical firm: It has $1m in equity, it makes $4m in profit and will do for the foreseeable future, it pays all of that $4m out as dividends - if we work on a simple ROI of 10% then this firm is worth $40m dollars - way more than its equity."


I mean, it doesn't really apply to a lease/buy decision in a home.  The variability due to the variables I discussed makes it not worth the analysis when you're talking about return differences of maybe 1-2%.  Even if your house costs $1 million, that's only a difference of $10,000... MAYBE if there's no difference in the other variables, but there will be.  My point is that it's not worth doing.  DCF models are used for valuation of large projects, not simple home buying problems.  There are way better ways to evaluate such a simple problem.


There is some element of truth to what your realtor said.  The seller takes the house off the market after the offer is accepted but the contract is contingent upon, among other things, buyer securing the financing. A lower down payment can mean a higher chance of failing that. The buyer might be going through FHA, VA or other programs that have additional restrictions. If the buyer fails to secure a financing, that's weeks and months lost to the seller. In a seller's market, this can be an important factor in how your bid is perceived by the seller. Sometimes it even helps to disclose your credit score, for the same reason. Of course for your situation you will have to assess whether this is the case. Certainly do not let your realtor push you around to do things you are not comfortable with. Edit:  A higher down payment also helps in the situation where the house appraisal does not fare well.  As @Dilip Sarwate has pointed out, the particular area you are interested in is probably a seller's market, thus giving sellers more leverage in picking bids. All else equal, if you are the seller with multiple offers coming in at similar price level, would you pick the one with 20% down or 5% down? While it is true that realtors have their own motives to push through a deal as quickly as possible, the sellers can also be in the same boat. One less mortgage payment is not trivial to many. It's a complicated issue, as every party involved have different interests. Again, do your own due diligence, be educated, and make informed decisions.


I would assume that under a certain threshold, HMRC doesn't even want to hear from you, because extracting taxes from you costs them more money than you are going to pay. On the other hand, I cannot find anything written about that subject.  I'd suggest to call them at 0300 200 3300 and ask them. Have the annual cost of the server ready, and tell them that you will stop asking for donations if say 6 months of cost is covered. There may be an official threshold that I was unable to find.  Obviously if you receive £1000 in donations and spend £100 for the server, they will want tax payment. If its £110 in donations and £100 for the server, they will likely not care. If they tell you to register as self-employed, it's not difficult, just a bit of a pain. In that case you'd have to pay tax on your income (donations) minus cost (cost for the server and any other cost).


"I can't give you proper legal advice, but if I called their customer service and used half an hour of my time to wait and explain the situation in detail, and their official response was ""just use the points,"" I would do just that. Of course you would have stronger legal standing if you had recorded their answer, or had it in writing from them. But I don't think spending these points will come crashing down on you. And morally I see absolutely no problem with spending these points; it is not as if you are stealing from someone else. These points can usually be given away in any kind of crazy manner. Sometimes there are lotteries or events where they give away 100,000 points for new customers who open up an account on a specific weekend. Sometimes they give points to customers who want to terminate their contracts as an attempt to coax them into staying. They have given you a lot of points and don't really care. As a result you are probably staying their customer forever – and will most likely tell this story to many friends. This is free advertising for them. Heck, maybe they would even make a news story out of this some day, it could be good publicity. Everyone is essentially getting these points ""for free"" but in fact the company has a business case by improving their image and customer retention with these points. So you can spend these points with a sound mind morally. Legally you would have to contact a lawyer, but I think chances for legal repercussions are small if you have done your duty, informed them and their customer service basically said it's ok."


I won't add to the timelines, as I agree or don't care but my two cents are


Yes, but only in a relatively short term. False news or speculations can definitely change the stock price, sometimes even significantly. However, the stock price will eventually (in the long-term) correct itself and head to the right direction.


You are still selling one investment and buying another - the fact that they are managed by the same company should be irrelevant.  So yes, it would get the same tax treatment as if they were managed by different companies.


Given that a lot of rental car places tend to be co-located these days, I've just started making multiple reservations. There's generally no penalty for not picking up the car and if one flakes out, you still have a reservation elsewhere.


Reminds me of when I had a warehouse job about 10 years ago. I started at the same time as a lot of temp employees. A lot of these temps were promised permanent jobs after 6 months. That didn't happen quite on schedule and one I worked with kept complaining about it loudly. So they hired him. I was in the room when he was told he had to get a drug test the next day. It wasn't a happy face. I never had a chance to compare and contrast though because he never showed up again.


To be fair, it could go completely tits up, so don't buy more than you can afford to lose.  That being said, I'm a huge crypto evangelist, but I tend to stick to Bitcoin and Bitcoin Cash. Ethereum is trying to solve a problem that isn't there by adding the programming language to the base code. I think Bitcoin has a better approach by leaving the base code simple and adding layers like TCP/IP did. But Ethereum is the #2 crypto in the world right now so maybe I'm wrong.


When we 'delta-hedge', we make the value of a portfolio 0.  No - you make the risk relative to some underlying 0.  The portfolio does have a value, but if whatever underlying you're hedging against changes slightly the value of your portfolio should not change. But, what is the derivative of a portfolio?  It's the instantaneous rate of change of the portfolio) relative to some underlying phenomenon.  With a portfolio of many stocks, there's not one single factor that drives the value of your portfolio. You have sensitivity to each underlying stock (price and volatility), interest rates, the market as a whole, etc. For simplicity, we might imagine a portfolio that has holdings in .... a call .... a stock .... and a bank account (to borrow and lend money).  You will have a delta relative to the stock and a delta relative to the underlying instrument on the option, etc.  Those can only be aggregated for each factor (e.g. if the call is an option on the same stock) Theta is the only one you can calculate for the portfolio as a whole - it will be the aggregate theta of all of your positions (since change in time is constant across all investments).  All of the others are not aggregatable since they are measuring sensitivities to different phenomena.


But this leads to states competing and losing out in general.  If they were to pick based on price and merits of location they'd end up paying taxes somewhere in the US if they wanted to come at all.  I just don't like when states compete to undercut each other like that.


You make it sound like consumers literally have no choice in the matter. That's absurd. The fact that many people don't make an effort to be responsible consumers is no one else's fault.   As long as businesses are not outright lying about their products or services, there's no reason for the government to be in loved.  It's really not hard to control the impulse to buy a tabloid or a snickers bar.


"Per capita joint-stock market capitalization is strongly correlated (Pearson's r = .51) with the transparency.org corruption perceptions index (higher index score is cleaner, more transparent government). So if by ""capitalism"" you mean joint-stock capitalism the data suggests you're wrong.  When I studied this about a year ago, China's per capita joint-stock market capitalization was a little over $2,000 while their corruption index was a miserable 3.5. On the other hand, the US had a per capita joint-stock market capitalization of about $38,000 and a pretty good corruption index score of 7.1.  If you graph this regression on a log scale Morocco and Colombia occupy similar positions as China. The nearest statistical ""neighbors"" to the US are France and Norway. Are China, Morocco and Colombia less corrupt than the US, France and Norway?"


Well, you're business/accounting acumen is nothing to brag about and your character is still out for judgment, though your insistence on trying to make this point despite being wrong is sort of working against you. Other than that, I don't know anything else about you to make that kind of assessment.  Though you are tenacious, I'll give you that. You keep arguing with me despite saying you were done with this. So that could possibly be a positive character trait.


Peer to peer lending isn't FDIC insured.  You can lose all your investment with peer to peer lending, whereas you will not lose your deposited money in a savings account, even if it doesn't grow very fast.


As mentioned by others, dollar cost averaging is just a fancy term for how many shares your individual purchases get when you are initially adding money to your investment accounts.  Once the money is invested, annual or quarterly rebalancing serves the purpose of taking advantage of higher rates of growth in particular market sectors. You define the asset allocation based on your risk profile, time to retirement, etc., then you periodically sell the shares of the investments that have grown faster than the rest and buy more shares of the investments that are relatively cheaper.


"Yeah I knew you would bring that up. But what about the guy who is getting called a racist but really does have black friends? What do you say to that guy? That's like the old saying, ""If you bust on gays you must be gay."" Super retarded logic, but expected. I am getting a full picture now, keep it coming.   Look, muslims all follow this Koran book, it's their fucking bible, which has over a 100 verses about fucking up non-believers. I don't think anything more has to be said than that if you are a logical thinker. Now if none of the muslims were acting up, maybe you could say ""hey, it's just a book, they don't follow it to the T"" but tons of them are going around quoting the book, praising the peadophile who's the head of the whole thing, and stabbing, hacking and running over innocent people.   Seriously man, what part of that don't you get?"


"I don't like buying individual bonds for my own portfolio.  I actually used to buy long-term government strip bonds (Canadas or provincial bonds) but I stopped.  Here are some reasons why: My broker allows me to purchase bonds via their web application.  However, to sell a bond, I had to call in to the fixed-income trading desk.  That was inconvenient.  (But your broker may be different.) Bonds don't typically trade on a formal exchange.  So, there's no cheap & easy way (as far as I know) to get an independent quote for a bond's value – I had to trust what my broker said my bond was worth when assessing my portfolio performance.   I asked my broker once how they arrive at the ""market value"" shown – i.e. whether it was last bid, ask, or actual trade – and I was told they use a third party bond quotation / valuation information provider for the data, and that quotes are an estimate of what the bond would be worth, based on similar bonds.  I quickly learned that wasn't the value I could actually get when selling it: When you're dealing with your broker to buy and sell bonds, you're likely dealing with theirs or a related investment bank which makes a market for specific issues of bonds.  While I wasn't being charged an explicit commission to buy or sell bonds, it was evident the broker makes money off the spread:  That is, the difference between what they would be willing to sell a bond for and what they would be willing to buy that same bond for.  They will buy your bond back from you cheaper than what they could turn around and sell it to somebody else for.  That's why they don't charge an explicit commission... it's built in and hidden! Anyway, when I finally discovered my broker would seldom actually offer me the ""market value"" quoted for my bonds (typically, it would be bought back for a few percent less than it were theoretically worth), I gave up.  I don't think bonds simply are liquid enough, nor the costs transparent enough for retail investors.  (Or maybe it's just me :-) However, I do think bonds remain an important part of a diversified portfolio:  Bonds ought to be represented in a diversified portfolio using low-cost bond index mutual funds or exchange-traded funds.  Since these funds buy & sell bonds in large quantities, they get a better deal on the spreads.  So, while you do pay an explicit management fee for a fund, you are probably saving since you're not getting shafted on the spreads."


Because the normal and **perfectly effective** regulatory controls in place for the past 130 years, that allowed the states to monitor and intervene in any predatory lending, was dismantled by Bush in 2003, when he blocked all 50 state attorney generals from routinely investigating what they noticed was a sudden growth in questionable banking practices.  Not only that, when [ALL 50 state attorney generals protested](http://www.atg.wa.gov/BlogPost.aspx?id=28620), Bush used the OCC to threaten to sue any state AGs who persisted.    i.e., in 2003 Bush forcefully undid the longstanding Consumer Protection laws and castrated the state AGs, right as the state AGs were proceeding to stop the uptick in illicit bank practices, leading to the mortgage crisis a few years later. It wasn't until the Dodd-Frank Wall Street Reform and Consumer Protection Act of 2010 that Congress **restored** what Bush dismantled in 2003.  (for your historical reference:  OCC = office of comptroller of currency.  The OCC and the states have long had a fair and balanced dual system, set by the vast majority of past Supreme Court rulings and the National Bank Act.  Bush abolished that precedent and used the OCC to give banks the power for the first time to fight off the state regulators.)


"Because it is a Roth IRA (not traditional), you never pay penalties for withdrawing any amount up to your total contributions amount. This is because you are funding it with after tax money. But it sounds like your Roth had $11K in it and you zeroed it out? If you were less than 59.5 years old at the time you made the withdrawal, then if you did not return anything to the account, then you would pay tax on the 6K as income this year at your normal tax rate, plus an additional 10% penalty on that 6K ($600). The 5K in contributions is not taxable. Now, since it's been more than 60 days since you withdrew the money, you cannot put the 6K in earnings back in without paying the penalty, however, you can still contribute $5500 per year (or $6500 if you're over 50). So, you can put back $5500 and then you would only have to pay tax + 10% on the $500 difference. Update: I would recommend talking to an accountant. The fact that you intended to buy a house might provide a mechanism for getting the money back in if you wish. If this was your first house or you have not owned a home in the last 2 years, then you would be considered a ""first-time homebuyer"" and there is a special exception allowing you to remove 10K without penalty. If you end up not purchasing the home, you have 120 days to contribute those funds back in (treated as a rollover- thank you littleadv for the link to this). As for the final 1K overage, I believe you can count that towards your $5500/yr contribution when you put the entire amount back. Lastly, after digging into this, you have hit so many edge cases with your scenario (6K in earnings being between 5500 for under 50 and 6500 for over 50, it's been 70 days which is between the 60 day normal cutoff and the 120 day extended cutoff for home purchase falling through, and 11K total being just over the 10K cutoff for the same), that I'm starting to wonder if this is some sort of contrived case for an accounting exam!?"


Will citizens advice be able to help me, or am I only going to get told to seek legal advice anyway? They are just advisory. i.e. help/guide people. They are not responsible for any outcome. What can I do as I'm not the person who's made payment or been paid, but I also don't want to cause the estate agent lots of work from my mistake, but legally no bank will talk to me anyway. You are right. You estate agent would have to follow-up with banks [which you have already done]. Will I have to seek legal action or the estate agent? Once you follow-up with the Banks and the Ombudsman, you should proceed to legal. Legally if it is a mistake on your part, the beneficiary is NOT entitled to the money and has to refund it. However establishing this takes a while and hence most of the times beneficiary does not pay back the money that is not rightfully his.


Replace your own brake pads Disc brake pads are usually snap-in replacement parts. YouTube has tons of videos showing how to do it. Find one with a car similar to your own. And it cannot be over-emphasized... Keep up on the routine maintenance. You can look up the schedule on your car manufacturer's website.


If you had purchased the land directly from your NRI account in your name [with power of attorney] in your wife's name, it would have been very simple to get the funds back. Whenever you sell the land, transfer the funds into NRO account. From NRO account you can repatriate back USD 1 Million. A CA certificate is required detailing the purpose and that tax is paid on the funds, talk to your bank and it should be easy. The gains will be taxable in India as well as in the US. You can claim rebate to the extent of taxes paid in India.


The only reason to lend the money in this scenario is cashflow. But considering you buy a $15000 car, your lifestyle is not super luxurious, so $15000 spare cash is enough.


Good for lazy investors, time-restricted investors, investors with little knowledge, investors who want a hybrid of advice and tools without paying the crazy fees of mutual funds or an advisor. The biggest advantage, is that it is easy, quick and convenient If you have the time and knowledge, this might not be for you


W kolekcji fototapet do kuchni i jadalni znajdziecie Państwo soczyste, pobudzające zmysły, pachnące obrazy i zdjęcia m.in. produktów spożywczych, które doskonale wpisują się w dekoracyjne aranżacje właśnie tego typu pomieszczeń. Aromatyczne i smaczne wnętrze, namawiające do inspiracji i podróży kulinarnych stworzysz dzięki naszym wzorom fototapet do kuchni i jadalni. A przy okazji dodadzą smaku twoim codziennym posiłkom.


1% is below interchange, so you either 1) take mostly debit, 2) have someone willing to literally lose money paying the banks for you, or 3) have hidden/padded fees somewhere else.  Edit: Or 4) Have customers pay the fees through surcharging.


Good addition. When learning finance and business, /u/msattam, realize the world does not work cleanly like it does in a textbook. You have added complexity, both systemic and human caused. And that there is a very good reason that we must understand agency issues and how to mitigate those risks.


Pay off the debt first.  Life circumstances change without notice, and starting any stage of life with a debt puts you at a disadvantage.  Luckily, your debt is small.  Please also consider accumulating a 6 month emergency fund before making investments. This will further protect you when life hands you a curveball.


"If you're under 18 there's not much you can do. As a minor, your kinda just stuck. There are routes to go, but not many.  If you're over 18, here's what you can do.  Now these steps won't help you not anger your mother. They're ""what you can do"" but it doesn't mean you ""should"". Keep in mind that it might be better just to have a conversation. In that conversation, if you think you need to say, ""I will file a complaint with the FBI, and have you arrested if you don't stop! You're breaking the law and invading my privacy."" Again these are drastic steps to take. More moderate steps may be advisable."


>Coal is already dead because of natural gas       I don't believe you.     >The usa sits on 28% of total global coal reserves. 260 billion short tons of recoverable coal reserves.    >Despite significant U.S. coal production since the industrial revolution, recoverable domestic coal reserves at current mining levels would last 222 years.     >https://www.eia.gov/todayinenergy/detail.php?id=2930


The problem is that at full employment demand in the market is supposed to increase as people spend money. More money in the market means more inflation, but because wages have not risen even at full unemployment inflation is not rising.   If it is not rising the problem is that it might really be deflating, deflation is the enemy of the rich as the price for goods, services and assets decline.


Start with the bank where you have your checking and savings account. They can streamline some of the paperwork, because they can see how much you make, and have access to several years worth of bank statement. Legitimate mortgage companies do publish their rates. But there is no guarantee that you will qualify for the best rate without them knowing your credit score, salary, and down payment information.  There is no way to know that you have the best rate because of the time lag involved. You will pick the best one you can work with, but the rates can change every day.  Even when you lock in the rates, other companies can drift lower. Once you have started down the application process you will reach a point where switching companies will cost you time and money. Once you decide to purchase a house, the contract usually only gives you a few weeks to prove that you have financing in place. Therefore you will have to start the process before deciding on the house. Some advance work is needed to give you an idea of the maximum monthly payment you can afford, which will then based on the rate and down payment determine the maximum house you can buy. I have had good luck with my credit union, but there is no guarantee that yours will be competitive. Keep in mind that while rates are very important, some people also value customer service, and also like that the mortgage won't be sold to out of town investors.


You are expected to file 1099 for each person you pay $600 a year. I.e.: not a one time payment, but the total over the course of the year. Since we don't know how much and what else you paid - we cannot answer this question. The real question you're asking is that if you're treating the enterprise as a hobby, whether you're supposed to file 1099s at all. The answer to that question is yes. You should talk to your tax adviser (a EA/CPA licensed in your state) about this, and whether it is the right thing for you to do treating this as a hobby at all.