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+{"text": "ALSO AVAILABLE\n\nAcknowledgments\nIn writing this book I have been taken on another wonderful and\nunique journey. Not only have I discovered more delicious dishes, I\nhave also learnt so much more about the rich history and culture of\ncolonial Vietnam. I am always amazed and appreciative as to where the\nlove of food has taken me.\nIndochine would not have been possible without the love and support from\nfour very special people:\nMy mum and dad, who scouted all the wet markets of Vietnam in search of\nthe freshest produce so we could cook and shoot each recipe.\nMy beautiful loving partner, Suzanna Boyd, who keeps wowing me with\nher talents in photography, design and, now, food styling! I would have\nbeen absolutely lost without you.\nAlan Benson, you are incredible. Your photography is truly stunning and\nyou seem to create these amazing images with such grace. I thank you for\nyour professionalism and great friendship.\nMuch respects to the publishing team of Kylie Walker, Hugh Ford, Kim\nRowney, Leanne Kitchen and Livia Caiazzo.\nBig hugs to the entire Red Lantern Family; without your dedication, passion\nand hard work, I would not have found the time to complete this book. I\nthank you.\nTo my wonderful family in France, thank you all so much for sharing your\nknowledge and love for French–Vietnamese cuisine and culture.\nThank you also to all the cooks, restaurateurs, hoteliers and friends in\nVietnam who were so generous with their time and knowledge; and lastly,\nthank you to Vietnam Airlines for your continuous support.\n\nThis book is for my ever-supportive family: Cuc Phuong, Lap, Pauline, Lewis and Leroy\nNguyen.\n\nTwo wise men of Hanoi\nTHERE’S NOT A BREATH OF WIND THIS morning and the jade-\ncoloured waters of Hoan Kiem Lake are mirror flat. A motorbike pulls up in\nfront of me; the young driver is selling chilled green young coconuts. I give\nhim 10 000 dong (AUD 50 cents), he chops the top off with a large cleaver\nand then hands me the coconut. I sit down and sip on my refreshing juice\nand watch the world go by.\nI notice two elderly men, smartly dressed and wearing black berets, taking\na stroll, the elegant bamboo walking sticks in their hands seemingly more for\nshow than necessity. They stroke their long silver beards as they walk,\nnodding to each other in agreement as they talk. All the activity around me\nseems to stop as I watch these two men. They stop at a cart selling fresh soy\nbean milk, close enough for me to hear that they are not speaking\nVietnamese but fluent French.\nIt is not often that I approach strangers and ask to join them for a coffee,\nbut on this particular day I feel so compelled to talk to these men, that this is\nexactly what I do.\n‘Xin chao,’ I say a little nervously as I tentatively walk towards them.\n‘Bonjour,’ they reply.\nI can’t speak French, so I continue in Vietnamese and ask if I can join\nthem. They accept, so I order three Vietnamese iced coffees and ask them\nhow they both came to learn the French language so well.\n‘We both went to French schools,’ one of the men explains. ‘When the\nFrench occupied Vietnam, they divided it into three different ‘countries’, all\nwith different administrative regions; the north was called Tonkin, the centre\nwas Annam and the south, Cochin China. Along with Laos and Cambodia,\nVietnam became part of French Indochina, or Indochine as it is often called.\n‘Both our parents worked for the French, so we were given a French\neducation. We are old school friends; we’re both in our late eighties now and", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "many of our friends have passed, so we make sure we catch up every\nmorning for our walk. Afterwards we usually head to our friend’s charcuterie\nstore to buy freshly baked baguettes and pâté for our families.’\nBaguettes and pâté… The French had such a profound impact on the\nVietnamese way of life yet I’ve never stopped to really consider the culinary\nlegacy they left behind, or how much influence it has had on my own and\nother Vietnamese families’ cooking techniques. I explain that I’ve only ever\nhad a vague notion of this period of French occupation, that it lasted from\n1862 to 1954, but that I’ve never delved deeper into it.\nAs I sit in the park, drinking iced coffee and listening to two old men\ntelling the stories of their youth, I realise a door is opening for me, that the\nseed of a new adventure has been planted. From that very moment, I commit\nto spending the next month travelling through Vietnam to discover how the\nFrench influenced what the Vietnamese cook and eat today, and how the\nFrench presence was felt in daily life and if it continues to do so. I’m barely\nable to contain my excitement as I tell them my plans.\nOne of the men puts a calming hand on my shoulder. ‘Begin your journey\nfirst by simply walking through the old streets of central Hanoi,’ he tells me.\n‘And as you walk, don’t always just look straight ahead but be sure to look\nup!’\nAs they send me on my way, I think how it is always the lives and stories\nof the people I meet who give such depth and heart to my research on\nVietnam’s culinary arts. I have a renewed spring in my step, and I have those\ntwo wise gentle men of Hanoi to thank for that.\n\nCONTENTS\nCover\nAlso Available\nTitle Page\n \nAcknowledgments\nHanoi\nDalat\nSaigon\nFrance\nBasics\nGlossary\nIndex\nCopyright\n\nList of Recipes\nHanoi beef soft noodle rolls\nDuck à l’orange\nSlow–cooked oxtail and beef brisket in aromatic spices\nChargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green papaya\nChargrilled pork skewers in Vietnamese baguette\nBeef sirloin wok–tossed with garlic and green peppercorns\nCrab steamed in beer\nCrispy frogs’ legs\nBeef noodle soup\nPan–fried cinnamon prawns\nChicken and pork liver pâté\nRed braised pork belly\nSteamed Murray cod with passionfruit sauce\nMeringue et passion\nFried chocolate truffles with pink pepper\n\nIT’S 5.30 AM; IT’S MUGGY BUT STILL BEARABLE, AND I’m\nslouched against the front gates of Lenin Park, not fully awake. Why am I\nhere? I had to ask myself the same question as I stumbled bleary eyed out of\nbed this morning, but I’m here on good advice.\n‘No visit to Hanoi is complete without checking out Lenin Park,’ my\nfriend told me. ‘But be sure to get there early — it’s all over by 7.30 am.’\nI can’t believe how busy it is; the sun is hardly up and already there’s a\nbottleneck getting into the front gate! The entrance is lined with sacks of\nfreshly steamed corn sitting atop old bicycles, each cob selling for about\nAUD 25 cents. Morning joggers grab one on their way into the park for a\nquick, healthy breakfast.\nAs I walk through the gates it’s almost like entering a different world, a\ntranquil oasis in the midst of this busy, hectic city. I’m taken aback by the\nsheer size of this great open space; magnificent aged trees tower over the\nlarge central lake, creating much-needed cooling shade. People are jam-\npacked in all corners of the park; both young and old are jogging, stretching,\npractising tai chi and martial arts, and playing cane ball and shuttlecock. The\natmosphere is almost festival like, so much so that the buzz in the air soon\nsnaps me out of my soporific state.\nI’m drawn to some pop music blaring from a set of speakers in the western\ncorner of the park. I’m sure it’s a song from Modern Talking, a Europop\nband from Germany that was popular in the early eighties. Why they became\nso popular within Vietnamese circles around the world, I really don’t know. I\nremember my brother Lewis being such a fan, dressing like them and\nplaying their songs over and over again.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "I arrive in time to catch the quirky sight of thirty or so men and women, all\nover the age of fifty, strutting their stuff to the beat, doing the cha-cha-cha,\nsalsa and the lambada. The dancers are assembled in small groups, taking\ntheir cues from each dance leader, and I can’t help but laugh with joy at such\na sight. I take a few photos and they begin to gravitate towards my camera,\ndancing even harder with more hip action and sass. I cheer them on and they\nlove it!\n\nAs hard as it is to draw myself away from them, I continue my walk, this\ntime in search of something to appease my growling stomach. As I know\nonly too well, where there are people there are food carts, but I have to be\nquick because they’ll soon pack up and go home. The locals come here at\n\nthe crack of dawn when it is cool, they do their exercise, have their breakfast\nand then head off to work. There are noodle soups, tofu and sticky rice on\noffer — a perfect start to the day.\nFor fifty years this enormous stone building\nshowcased French power, a political statement\nsymbolising French rule over Vietnam’s oldest\ncity.\nBreakfast finished, I leave the park. Time has passed quickly and already\nit’s peak hour. A swarm of motorbikes buzz past me, and away from the\ncooling shade of the trees, I really feel the heat beginning to kick in. I walk\ntowards town and arrive in an area known as the French Quarter. I stop\nsmack bang in the middle of a busy intersection on Trang Tien Street and\nlook up to see a building that I have seen many times before, but have\nalways walked past, never thinking to stop or look up and admire its\ngrandeur.\nIt is the Hanoi Opera House, one of the city’s most striking landmarks. The\nOpera House was completed in 1911, and is often referred to as ‘little\nGarnier’ because it was built as a small-scale replica of the Opera House in\nParis, designed by Charles Garnier. I enter the building through a grand\nentrance and then walk up ornate stairs, admiring the massive gilt-framed\nmirrors, luxurious red suede curtains and the Art Nouveau design on the\nwalls and on the high domed ceiling. I feel like I am in Europe.\nKeen to see more French colonial architecture I move on a few blocks to\nNgo Quyen Street where I find the Presidential Palace designed by French\narchitect Auguste-Henri Vildieu in 1895 as the headquarters for the French\nGovernor-General of Indochina. For fifty years this enormous stone building\nshowcased French power, a political statement symbolising French rule over\nVietnam’s oldest city. When Vietnam gained independence from France in\n1954, Ho Chi Minh famously refused to live in the main palace, choosing\ninstead to live in a modest cottage out the back. Today the palace serves as a\n\nstrong reminder of French colonial rule, and it is where the Vietnamese\ngovernment entertains and houses their official guests.\nStanding at the base of its magnificent staircase, looking up at its freshly\npainted green French shutters and its decorative wrought-iron glass\nporchway, I begin to think about what life must have been like during French\ncolonial rule. The French may have left Vietnam over fifty years ago, but\nthey certainly changed a nation in many ways.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Madame Van at the Metropole\nA VINTAGE CITROËN TRACTION PULLS UP IN THE sweeping\nentrance of a grand building. The doorman, wearing a black suit and white\ngloves, opens the car door and helps his guests out, leaving their Louis\nVuitton suitcases for the porter. He ushers them inside where they are\ngreeted by elegant female hosts dressed in traditional ao dai. I can’t help but\nfeel that I’ve just witnessed a scene from the cult film, Indochine. I cross the\nroad to take a closer look.\nAs I enter the legendary Sofitel Metropole, I feel as though I have slipped\nback in time. Built at the turn of the nineteenth century, this French colonial\nhotel oozes the nostalgic flair and charm of a bygone era, with its wood\npanelling, French doors, beautifully crafted furniture and low ceiling fans.\nAs captivated as I am by the lobby, I naturally gravitate towards the\nrestaurant. A long–time favourite for the city’s elite, Le Beaulieu Restaurant\nis renowned for its fine French food and magnificent old–world wines.\nThe restaurant menu reads well: chicken cooked in red wine; carved leg of\nlamb with potato purée; roasted lobster with garlic butter and fresh pumpkin\nmousse; slow–cooked lamb shanks with white beans and honey roasted\ncarrots…\n‘Can I help you?’ the restaurant manager asks.\nI briefly tell him of my mission and ask if he knows much about French–\ninspired Vietnamese dishes and if the restaurant serves such food.\nHe clicks his fingers and says in a charming French accent, ‘I have got just\nthe right person for you. Please take a seat and wait a moment.’\nHe returns a few minutes later, holding the hand of a chef, enthusiastically\nleading her towards me.\n‘This is Madame Van,’ he says. ‘She has been a chef here for almost\ntwenty years and she knows everything about French–Vietnamese cuisine.’\n\nI introduce myself to her and ask her to tell me a little about the hotel, how\nshe came to be a chef here, and if she can give me some insight into the\nFrench influence on Vietnamese cooking.\nMadame Van speaks in a very clear, soft voice. She sits upright, the palms\nof her hands neatly placed on her knees. She speaks to me in English…\n‘The hotel was built in 1901 and as soon as it opened its doors it became the\nplace to stay for the colonial society, heads of state, ambassadors, famous\nwriters, actors and the well–to–do. Well–known guests included Charlie\nChaplin, Somerset Maugham and Graham Greene, who wrote most of The\nQuiet American while staying here. So when I got a job offer here, I was so\nexcited. Initially I wasn’t employed as a chef, but as a French interpreter. I\nmajored in French at university and my job was to translate the cooking\ninstructions and techniques from the French chefs for the local Vietnamese\ncooks. Not many Vietnamese spoke any English or French back then, but\neven with my perfect French and Vietnamese, it was still quite difficult for\nme to verbally explain these techniques and recipes to the Vietnamese. So I\nended up practising the recipes myself so I could show the chefs how to\nmake the dishes, step by step. This made my job so much easier, but I\nactually ended up being able to cook the dishes so well that the hotel\nscrapped the interpreter role and gave me a job as head chef.’\nI majored in French at university and my job\nwas to translate the cooking instructions and\ntechniques from the French chefs for the local\nVietnamese cooks.\nI am so impressed with her achievements and blown away by her talent.\nShe tells me that her cooking career has taken her to over ten countries,\nallowing her to showcase Vietnamese cuisine to the world. I ask her what\ndishes she cooks that she thinks may have borrowed ideas from the French.\n‘There are so many,’ she says. ‘Take vit nau cam for example, which is\nvery similar to duck à l’orange. The Vietnamese traditionally only ate duck\nboiled or in noodle soups, but now we grill it, roast or flash–fry it. When we", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "made stocks, we used to add uncooked vegetables for a clear soup, but now,\nfor our beef broth in particular, we chargrill or roast the vegetables before we\nadd them to the pot — this is a typical French technique.\n‘There is a dish that I cook often, bo sot vang, which is beef cooked in rice\nwine. The Vietnamese never used to braise their meats in wine, but now we\neven use red wine in our cooking. Today in the streets of Hanoi you can find\nladies selling pho sot vang, beef noodle soup in a red wine broth. And did\nyou know that before the French came to Vietnam, the Vietnamese people\nhardly ever ate beef or buffalo? The French arrived and saw an abundance of\ncattle and buffaloes in the fields and wondered why we didn’t eat them. We\nconsidered these animals as working animals; they ploughed the rice fields\nfor us and thus helped to provide our staple — rice. But the French\neventually had their way and, sure enough, beef soon became the much–\nloved meat it is now.’\nWe talk some more, then it’s time for me to leave. I feel quite\noverwhelmed with how much I’ve learnt in such a short time. Madame Van\nscribbles in my notebook the name of a place where I might find some good\nstreet food, quickly says her goodbyes and returns to the kitchen. I glance at\nwhat she’s written. It simply says ‘corner of Hang Cot, under the railway\nbridge’. I tuck it into my pocket — a little food–discovery adventure awaits.\n\nHanoi beef soft noodle rolls\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED STARTER\nI was so excited when I discovered this Hanoian dish.\nIt is pure genius — just like a beef pho but rolled into\nnoodles. When buying fresh rice noodle sheets, make\nsure they are at room temperature and not\nrefrigerated, as they need to be soft to roll well. If\nthey are cold, they will simply break into pieces.\nINGREDIENTS\n300 g (10½ oz) beef fillet, very thinly sliced (1 mm/1/16 inch thick)\n500 g (1 lb 2 oz) fresh flat rice noodle sheets (20 x 10 cm/8 x 4 inches)\n1 bunch Asian basil\n1 bunch sawtooth coriander\n1 bunch rice paddy herb\n2 long red chillies, julienned\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)\nMARINADE\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n2 teaspoons sugar\npinch of salt\n½ teaspoon ground black pepper\n1 lemongrass stem, white part only, finely chopped\n2 garlic cloves, finely chopped\n\n2 red Asian shallots, finely chopped\n1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds\n½ teaspoon sesame oil\n3 tablespoons vegetable oil\nMETHOD\nTo make the marinade, combine the fish sauce, sugar, salt and pepper in a\nmixing bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the lemongrass, garlic,\nshallots, sesame seeds, sesame oil and vegetable oil and mix well. Add the\nbeef and turn to coat in the marinade, then cover and set aside at room\ntemperature for 20 minutes.\nHeat a frying pan or chargrill pan over medium heat. Working in two\nbatches, add the beef and sear for about 30 seconds on each side, or until\nbrowned. The beef should be cooked to medium.\nOnce all the beef is cooked, place a rice noodle sheet on a chopping board,\nwith the shorter end closest to you. Now place some Asian basil leaves,\nsawtooth coriander leaves and a piece of beef along the base of the rice\nnoodle sheet. Place a stem of rice paddy herb and a piece of chilli on top,\npositioning them so they are sticking out of the roll a little. Fold the rice\nnoodle sheet up to enclose the herbs and beef, and continue to roll towards\nthe top to form a nice tight roll. Repeat this process for the rest of the rice\nnoodle sheets. Serve with the dipping fish sauce.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Duck à l’orange\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nThis Vietnamese adaptation of the classic French dish\nis amazingly moreish, and I actually prefer it to the\ntraditional version. Try to source fresh young coconut\nwater for this recipe, because the tinned variety has a\nbit of added sugar, which will make the dish far too\nsweet.\nINGREDIENTS\n1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) whole duck\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n4 red Asian shallots, chopped\n6 garlic cloves, chopped\n2 lemongrass stems, white part only, bruised\n2 star anise\n2 cinnamon sticks\n¼ teaspoon five–spice\njuice of 5 oranges\ngrated zest of 1 orange\n2 tablespoons shaoxing rice wine\n3 tablespoons fish sauce\n2 tablespoons sugar\n1 teaspoon ground black pepper\n700 ml (24 fl oz) young coconut water (approximately)\n\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMETHOD\nTo chop the duck into quarters, use poultry scissors or a large sharp knife to\ncut down each side of the backbone, then remove and discard the backbone.\nRemove the legs by cutting through the thigh joint, then cut the breast in half\nlengthways through the breastbone. Rub the duck pieces with salt.\nHeat a large frying pan over medium heat, then add the oil and sear the\nduck, skin side down first, for 3 minutes on each side, or until browned.\nRemove the duck from the pan and set aside. Drain the fat from the pan,\nleaving about 2 tablespoons in the pan.\nReturn the duck to the pan again over medium heat. Add the shallots,\ngarlic, lemongrass, star anise, cinnamon and five–spice and cook for 3\nminutes, or until fragrant. Add the orange juice, orange zest, rice wine, fish\nsauce, sugar, pepper and enough coconut water to cover the duck. Bring to\nthe boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Cover the pan and cook for 2 hours, or\nuntil the duck is tender. Transfer the duck to a serving platter.\nBring the liquid in the pan to the boil and cook for 10 minutes to reduce\nthe sauce. Pour the sauce over the duck and garnish with the star anise and\ncinnamon sticks. Serve with baguettes.\n\nThirty-six streets and lost\nI ALWAYS GET LOST IN THE CONFUSING NARROW STREETS\nand lanes of the Old Quarter, but this is often when I discover new things\nand different street foods. I glance at my map, but quickly fold it up again as\nI’m not very good with maps either, so I randomly pick a direction and start\nwalking.\nThe Old Quarter is just north of Hoan Kiem Lake, and it is a completely\ndifferent experience walking around here compared to the French Quarter.\nIt’s chaotic; the streets pulsate with life, and you find yourself having to\nwalk on the narrow roads, dodging traffic, because the footpaths are\ncrammed with street stalls and parked motorbikes. I guess this is the main\nreason why I never have the chance to ‘Look Up’ as I’m walking, but this\ntime I will — but with great caution.\nHanoi has had various names throughout its long history: Tong Binh, Dai\nLa, Ke Cho, Dong Do, Dong Quan and Thang Long before it was given the\nname Hanoi (meaning ‘within the river’) by King Minh Mang in 1831. As\nthe names of the city evolved, so too did the architecture of the Old Quarter,\nwhich today still reflects its rich and eclectic past as a great trading city, with\nsome ancient buildings and pagodas dating back to ancient Chinese\ndynasties.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Truong Dinh Tuyen and his wife\nThe Old Quarter is the historic heart of Hanoi, home to thousands of years\nof history. Hanoi sits on the right bank of the Red River, so named for its\nreddish-brown colour, but the river once ran through the city centre, down\ncanals and winding waterways, which were built to allow cargo boats better\naccess to the city. Later, the French colonists filled in the canals, creating a\nnetwork of winding streets known as the ‘thirty-six traditional handicraft\nstreets’.\nIf you have been to the Old Quarter you will notice that most streets start\nwith ‘Hang’, which doesn’t mean ‘street’ as you would expect, but actually\nmeans ‘merchandise’, as each is usually named after the commodity that was\nonce sold there. Still today, these streets retain their French translations.\nThere’s Hang Bong (Rue du Coton), which sells cotton; Hang Bac (Rue des\nChangeurs), selling silver; Hang Duong (Rue du Sucre), selling sugar; and\nHang Non (Rue des Chapeaux), selling hats.\n\nI come across a street called Cha Ca, which translates to ‘fried fish’, and\nsure enough almost all the restaurants on this street serve cha ca, a\ntraditional Hanoian dish of snakehead fish or catfish marinated in turmeric\nand dill, cooked at the table and served with soft vermicelli noodles.\nI am stopped in my tracks by a group of French people who walk past me\nand into one of the cha ca restaurants. An elderly Vietnamese man at the\ndoor greets them in French, which immediately grabs my attention. I enter\nthe restaurant and wait to be escorted to a table, then take a seat and watch\nfor a chance to engage the old man in a chat. I order the local speciality.\nOut comes a clay brazier with burning coal and a plate of bite-sized\nmarinated catfish, deep orange in colour from the turmeric; a platter filled\nwith vibrant fresh dill, spring onions, bean sprouts and chilli; a bowl of\nfluffy vermicelli noodles; some roasted peanuts and some nuoc cham, for\ndipping. I am given a pan and told to start cooking. The fish is already\npartially cooked so I’m really only finishing it off in the pan. I throw the fish\nin, the oil sizzles and splatters all over the table then, when it’s almost done,\nI throw in the dill. I pile some noodles into my bowl, add the fish, some\nfresh herbs, then all the toppings. I drizzle over the nuoc cham, mix it all\ntogether and eat.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Hanoi’s Old Quarter\nWow! The dish has everything: great colours, wonderful textures, varying\ntemperatures and incredible contrasting flavours. The dill is abundant but\nsubtle and the turmeric and galangal are very well balanced — not\noverpowering at all. This dish may well become one of my favourite\nHanoian dishes.\nThe old man brings me some mam tom, a shrimp paste dipping sauce,\nwhich he says adds more depth to the dish. He sits down next to me while I\neat and we begin to chat.\nHis name is Truong Dinh Tuyen and he was born in 1923. Quite tall for a\nVietnamese and very handsome, Tuyen is still strong and nimble for his age,\nand has a smile that warms the room. He tells me that this recipe is almost a\nhundred years old and has been passed down from generation to generation.\n‘When I was a boy, we used to serve this dish a little differently,’ he says.\n‘We served the fish on large trays on bamboo skewers; you could eat as\nmany as you wanted. At the end of the meal I would count the empty\nskewers then charge accordingly.’\nThis got me thinking about the possible French origins of the dish. Usually\nVietnamese eat fish in cutlets, with bones and all to savour the sweetness; it\nwasn’t typically Vietnamese to fillet the fish or pan-fry it — this seemed\nmore like something the French would do.\n‘So is this dish influenced by the French?’ I ask.\nHe thinks for a minute then replies, ‘No, I don’t believe so. They may have\npossibly influenced the way we eat it now, but it has always been a Hanoian\ndish. What I do know for sure is that the French love to eat this dish in\nwinter; it has been a favourite of theirs for over fifty years.’\n\nHanoi’s Old Quarter\nI ask about dill and how that came to be used, as dill is native to Europe,\nnot something used in traditional Vietnamese cooking.\nMr Tuyen’s daughter rushes over and says sternly, ‘This dish is not French,\nit is Vietnamese! Come in here, I’ll show you!’ She takes my hand and pulls\nme into her kitchen.\n‘This is catfish, straight from the strong currents of the Red River, which is\nwhy the flesh is lean and firm. I clean the fish, blanch it in boiling water for\na few seconds, then cut it into chunks. Our secret family marinade is a\nmixture of turmeric, galangal, spring onions, red shallots and shrimp paste. I\ncut the fish into chunks so I can fit it between bamboo sticks; no other\nreason. I then chargrill it over special charcoal that I buy from Huong\nPagoda. It’s a charcoal that does not smoke and it imparts a much better\nflavour. I take the fish off the heat when it is almost cooked, then take it out\nto the customers to finish off the cooking themselves. Now, I don’t think\nthere is anything French in that, do you?’\n\nMr Tuyen and his family\nI sensed that I might have offended Mr Tuyen’s daughter, as she is quite\nadamant that the cha ca dish was not influenced by the French at all — like\nmost Hanoians, she is so very proud of her culture and her regional dish.\nHowever, the French did undoubtedly introduce dill into Vietnam, but\nwhether it was a French or Vietnamese person who first used dill in this dish,\nwe might never know.\n\nMr Tuyen secretly hands me a piece of paper with a name and phone\nnumber on it.\n‘This lady is an old schoolmate of mine. Give her a call; she has a great\nknowledge of food. Tell her I sent you.’", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Slow–cooked oxtail and beef brisket in\naromatic spices\nSERVES 6–8 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nThis is a great example of how the Vietnamese have\nturned a traditional French stew into a classic\nVietnamese dish. There are many versions of bo kho\nthroughout Vietnam, and this one is the northern\nversion. I use sarsaparilla in this recipe as I find it\ncomplements the star anise, but if you can’t find\nsarsaparilla, use stout instead.\nINGREDIENTS\n3 star anise\n2 cloves\n1 piece of cassia bark\n½ teaspoon five–spice\n2 teaspoons shaoxing rice wine\n1 tablespoon hoisin sauce\n170 ml (5½ fl oz/2/3 cup) sarsaparilla\n700 g (1 lb 9 oz) beef brisket, cut into 5 x 2 cm (2 x ¾ inch) pieces\n700 g (1 lb 9 oz) oxtail, washed\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n2 red Asian shallots, chopped, plus 4 extra, peeled and left whole\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\n\n4 tablespoons tomato paste (concentrated purée)\n2 tablespoons annatto oil\n2 litres (70 fl oz/8 cups) beef stock base for pho\n250 g (9 oz) carrots, peeled and thinly sliced\n1 handful Vietnamese basil leaves\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMETHOD\nHeat a small frying pan over low heat and dry–roast the star anise, cloves\nand cassia bark separately for 2–3 minutes, or until fragrant. Allow to cool,\nthen grind the spices using a mortar and pestle. Combine the ground spices\nand the five–spice in a large mixing bowl, then add the rice wine, hoisin\nsauce and sarsaparilla. Add the beef brisket and oxtail and mix well. Cover\nand place in the fridge to marinate overnight.\nPlace a large wok over medium heat, then add the oil, chopped shallots and\ngarlic. Stir–fry for about 3 minutes, or until the shallots become translucent.\nWorking in two batches, add the beef brisket and increase the heat. Continue\nto stir–fry until the meat is sealed on all sides. Remove to a large saucepan\nor stockpot.\nAdd the oxtail, tomato paste and annatto oil to the wok and stir–fry for 4\nminutes. Remove from the wok and add to the saucepan with the brisket.\nPlace the saucepan over medium heat. Add the stock and bring it all to the\nboil, skimming any impurities off the surface, then lower the heat to a slow\nsimmer. Add the whole shallots and cook for a further 2 hours, or until the\nmeat is very tender. Once the beef is cooked, add the carrots and cook for a\nfurther 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with the\nVietnamese basil. Serve with the baguettes.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "The last of the Mohicans\nI STEP ONTO THE STREET OUTSIDE MR TUYEN’S restaurant, the\nnumber for his old friend on a piece of paper in my hand. I decide to call her\nstraight away. Her name is Delphine and she agrees to see me. She lives only\nten minutes away and I’m excited at the thought of soon meeting her.\nI hurry down Thuoc Bac Street, breathing in aromatic wafts of ginseng,\ncinnamon and dried ginger as I walk past the many Chinese herbal medicine\nshops that line the street. It is insanely hot and my cap is dripping wet, but it\ndoesn’t bother me because I’m keen to get there.\nMadame Delphine’s house is directly across the road from a stunning jade-\ncoloured lake called Thien Quang, on Nguyen Du Street. It is in the groovy\npart of town, a well-to-do area dotted with funky cafés, modern restaurants\nand brand-name stores. I note how appropriate it is that her house is next\ndoor to an international clothing store called French Connection.\nI press the button and seconds later the heavy door screeches open, then\nslams loudly behind me as I walk up the narrow spiral metal stairs.\n‘Xin chao,’ a woman’s voice calls out from a nearby room. ‘Madame\nDelphine is expecting you.’\nThe housekeeper leads me into the house, pointing at my shoes to make\nsure I take them off before entering. The room is dark, hot and musty; it is\nbare except for a few wooden stools, a small electric fan and an altar table\nwith a few sticks of smoking cinnamon-scented incense. The walls are\ncovered in old black-and-white pictures, blanketed in a thick layer of dust. I\nblow the dust off one to reveal a photograph of Ho Chi Minh sitting with a\nfamily in that very room.\nAs I lean in to study the picture more closely, I’m a little startled by a soft\nvoice that speaks to me from across the room.\n‘Welcome Luke, I am Delphine. I am pleased to meet you.’\n\nI turn to see a woman’s silhouette sitting cross-legged on an oriental day\nbed in the corner.\n‘Open a few shutters and let some light in,’ she says.\nThe room fills with dust-speckled light and she reaches out to me.\nGripping both my hands tightly in hers, she runs her fingers across my\npalms.\nMadame Delphine’s parents\n\n‘I can see that you are a good person with a very bright future,’ she says,\nher fingers lightly tracing the lines in my palm. ‘You are young but you have\nan old soul and you are always striving to learn more. Take a seat next to me,\nLuke. Here, have some tea.’\nShe lets go of my hands and while she is busy pouring the tea, I sneak a\nsideways glance at her. There is such a regal presence about her; she sits\nwith great posture and each of her movements is slow and considered. I look\nat her short silver hair, kind almond eyes and her worn, petite hands.\nShe taps me on my thigh. ‘So what would you like to learn today my son?’\nI tell her the story of my life, about how my family fled Vietnam in the late\nseventies, arriving in Thailand, where I was born. I tell her about our life in\nthe refugee camp before coming to Australia, where I was raised. I talk\nabout how I have spent most of my life cooking and studying regional\nVietnamese food, travelling the country from north to south to discover age-\nold recipes and cooking techniques.\n‘I want to find out more,’ I explain. ‘I want to learn what life was like in\nVietnam during the colonial rule, what the Vietnamese used to eat then, what\nthe French brought over to this country and how they have influenced\nVietnamese cuisine. I can only learn this from people like yourself and your\nfriends such as Mr Tuyen, who lived through this period.’\n‘Well it’s a good thing you are doing this now Luke, because Mr Tuyen\nand I are ‘the last of the Mohicans’ — we might not be around for much\nlonger!’ She chuckles to herself then begins to tell me her story…", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Madame Delphine’s family villa\n‘My birth name is Ho Thi Thuy Tan. I was born in 1932 into a very noble\nfamily. My grandparents were the king and queen of Tonkin and Annam. My\ngrandfather governed all of the northern areas and was the head of the largest\nFrench college in Vietnam, called Albert Sarraut College, named after the\nfirst French governor. This is where all my uncles, aunties, siblings, both my\nparents and I were educated. We were taught only in the French language\nand were all given French names — mine was Delphine.\n‘My parents were arranged in marriage to each other at the age of eight,\nwhich was quite normal back then. They both later became advisors to the\n\nFrench, known as Vietnamese mandarins. Our whole family lived like the\nFrench; we ate the same food they did, dressed like them, spoke their\nlanguage and were even given French citizenship. My parents travelled by\nship to Paris often, for two months at a time, to complete their masters and\ndoctorates in law.’\nShe stops and points to one of the photographs. ‘Believe it or not, those\nmen are all my great uncles, but they could be easily mistaken for being\nFrench. We lived a very fortunate life, travelled all over Vietnam for\nholidays, staying in one of the many villas we owned. But this all changed in\n1945 when Ho Chi Minh and his National Liberation Committee called for\nthe August Revolution, declaring independence. This was the beginning of\nthe Franco-Viet Minh War. In 1954, the French eventually lost the nine-year\nbattle and were forced back to France, and many of my uncles and aunties\nwent with them.\n‘Although we had lost all our possessions and all our homes, my parents\ndecided to stay in Hanoi to raise their children. I was already married, but\nmy husband and I were virtually penniless; we worked hard to pursue our\nstudies and get good jobs, so that we could give our own five children their\neducation. Today they are all doctors and lawyers living happily with their\nown families in Europe.’\nAs Delphine is speaking, I look up again at all the photographs on the\nwall; they really take me back to those colonial times. I feel very lucky to be\nhaving this unique experience and I don’t want to leave, so I ask her if she\nthinks cha ca, the fried fish dish of Hanoi, was inspired by the French.\n‘Dill was definitely brought over by the French,’ she says. ‘So I guess any\nVietnamese dish with dill in it was influenced by the French in some way —\nbut that doesn’t mean the French created that dish. My grandfather, on one\nof his trips back from Paris, brought a kohlrabi vegetable with him to Dalat.\nIt was he who introduced this vegetable to Vietnam. He loved the texture of\nit and enjoyed eating it raw in salads or wok-tossed in a simple stir-fry.\nYou’ll be surprised as to just how many\ntraditional Vietnamese dishes have French roots\n\n— you will have an amazing journey\ndiscovering all this.\n‘Take charcuterie, for example. There are countless stores in Hanoi still\nselling these products. I go to a store in the Old Quarter particularly for their\npàté; that store has been there for over a hundred years. You also have all the\nwonderful bakeries and patisseries, as well as the street food vendors selling\npork-filled baguettes. And don’t forget all our salads, which the Vietnamese\ncall xa lat; they are all dressed with various types of vinaigrettes, which are\ntypically French.’\nI feel so honoured that I have met this wonderful and interesting woman.\nBefore I leave, she gives me the address of her favourite charcuterie shop,\nthen she sends me on my way.\n\nDelphine’s great grandfather", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Chargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green\npapaya\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nWhen chargrilling or deep–frying prawns, I always\nleave the head and tail intact as I enjoy their crispy\ntexture. Please be adventurous and give it a go.\nINGREDIENTS\n2 tablespoons oyster sauce\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n1 tablespoon light soy sauce\n½ teaspoon sesame oil\n2 tablespoons sugar\n6 garlic cloves, chopped\n1 bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped\n6 raw jumbo prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined, heads and tails intact\n1 green papaya, peeled and julienned\n5 perilla leaves, sliced\n5 Vietnamese mint leaves, sliced\n5 mint leaves, sliced\n1 tablespoon crushed roasted peanuts\n1 tablespoon fried garlic\nVietnamese mint sprig, to garnish\nMETHOD\n\nCombine the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, garlic\nand chilli in a mixing bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the prawns\nand toss to coat in the marinade, then set aside at room temperature for 20\nminutes.\nIn another mixing bowl, combine the green papaya, herbs, peanuts and\nfried garlic. Set aside.\nDrain the prawns, reserving the marinade. Place the marinade in a wok or\nsmall saucepan and bring to the boil, then cook for 4 minutes until reduced\nand slightly thickened.\nMeanwhile, heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium–high heat.\nChargrill the prawns for 3–4 minutes on each side, basting the prawns with\nthe marinade every minute or so. Add the cooked prawns to the papaya\nmixture, drizzle 2 tablespoons of the marinade into the bowl and toss all the\ningredients together. Transfer to a serving platter and garnish with the\nVietnamese mint.\n\nChargrilled pork skewers in Vietnamese\nbaguette\nSERVES 6\nThere is an array of delectable fillings designed for\nthe Vietnamese baguette; this one is my new personal\nfavourite. Wandering around the small streets of old\nHanoi, I see ladies selling these pork-filled baguettes.\nThe smoky aromas coming from their chargrills lures\nme in every time.\nINGREDIENTS\n500 g (1 lb 2 oz) pork neck\n6 spring onions (scallions), white part only, sliced\n4 tablespoons fish sauce\n1 tablespoon honey\n2 tablespoons sugar\n1 teaspoon ground black pepper\n2 garlic cloves, finely chopped\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n6 Vietnamese baguettes, split\n1 Lebanese (short) cucumber, sliced into batons\n2 large handfuls coriander (cilantro) sprigs\nsriracha hot chilli sauce, to serve\nhoisin sauce, to serve\n\nMETHOD\nThinly slice the pork neck across the grain into 3 mm (1/8 inch) thick slices,\nthen set aside. Using a mortar and pestle, pound the spring onion to a fine\npaste.\nCombine the fish sauce, honey, sugar and pepper in a large mixing bowl,\nstirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the pork, spring onion paste and garlic.\nToss to coat the pork in the marinade, then pour the oil over the top. Cover\nand place in the fridge to marinate for 2 hours, or overnight for a better\nresult.\nSoak 12 bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes to prevent them burning.\nThread the pork onto the skewers. Heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to\nmedium–high heat and brush with some oil. Add the skewers in two batches\nand chargrill for 2 minutes on each side, or until browned and cooked\nthrough.\nPlace two pork skewers into a baguette, pull out the bamboo skewers, then\nadd some cucumber, coriander, chilli sauce and hoisin sauce, to taste. Repeat\nwith the remaining pork skewers.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Beef sirloin wok–tossed with garlic and green\npeppercorns\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nWhen the French arrived in Vietnam, they were\nsurprised to see that the locals did not eat beef often,\nas cows were regarded mainly as working animals.\nThis recipe is the Vietnamese version of the popular\nFrench dish, pepper steak.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 tablespoon hot water\n3 tablespoons oyster sauce\n1 teaspoon sesame oil\n1 teaspoon caster (superfine) sugar\n500 g (1 lb 2 oz) beef sirloin, trimmed and cut into 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) dice\n1 tablespoon vegetable oil\n1 garlic clove, crushed\n½ small onion, cut into large dice\n10 fresh green peppercorns (or use peppercorns in brine, drained)\n50 g (1¾ oz) butter\npinch of salt\ngenerous pinch of cracked black pepper\n1 sprig fresh green peppercorns, to garnish\nlight soy sauce and sliced chilli, for dipping\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\n\nMETHOD\nCombine the hot water, oyster sauce, sesame oil and sugar in a mixing bowl,\nstirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the beef and toss to coat well, then set\naside to marinate for 10 minutes. Remove the beef from the marinade and\ndrain well.\nPlace a wok over the highest heat until smoking hot. Drizzle the oil around\nthe top of the wok; the oil should ignite into flames, so take care. Add the\nbeef in batches and seal it on all sides, shaking and tossing the beef in the\nwok. The beef should be charred and the wok flaming.\nAdd the garlic, onion, green peppercorns and butter to the wok and\ncontinue to stir-fry for 4 minutes, constantly moving the ingredients around\nin the wok with a wooden spoon. Add the salt and cracked black pepper,\nthen turn out onto a serving platter. Garnish with the sprig of green\npeppercorns. Serve with a small bowl of soy sauce and sliced chilli for\ndipping, and with baguettes.\n\nBikes, beer and the story of a nation\nI’M ON THE LOOKOUT FOR A RIDE TO TAKE me back to my hotel.\nFour motorbike taxis shout ‘Xe om, xe om,’ beckoning me to go with them.\nOne man grabs my arm in desperate need for business, so I show him the\naddress and he agrees to take me there, but then attempts to charge me triple\nthe usual price. I shake my head and walk away, and try to wave down a cab\ninstead. He takes the bait and quickly stops me, agreeing to my price. It\nworks every time! I hop on the back of his bike and secure my helmet.\n\n‘Business is hard these days, you know,’ he says over his shoulder as he\nrevs up the bike. ‘Sometimes I spend hours in the scorching heat without\ngetting a fare. There are too many cab companies opening up in the city;\ncompetition means they are getting cheaper, and they’re all air-conditioned,\ntoo. How can I compete? Fuel just gets more and more expensive, and some\ndays I am left with only a few dollars in my pocket at the end of the day. I’ve\ngot five kids to feed!’\nWe arrive at the hotel and because I feel extremely guilty for haggling over\njust a few bucks, I cave in and agree to give him his initial asking price. I ask\nhim if he’d like to join me for a coffee.\nHe introduces himself as Cuong and asks me where I’d been that day. I\nexcitedly tell him about my visit with Madame Delphine.\nHe looks at me, squinting his eyes with confusion. ‘Why are you so\ninterested in the French colonisation? Don’t you realise what they did to our\npeople? You talk as if they did wonderful things for our country and\nintroduced great Western ways to Vietnam. Well, you are wrong. In fact, the\nestablishment of the colonial administration created a huge burden for our", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "country. The costs of having French officials and military here were very\nhigh and who do you think paid for all that? The Vietnamese people did —\nmy grandparents, your grandparents — with outrageously high taxes.\n‘Now if you think that was criminal. In 1902 the French decided to\nmonopolise the making and selling of alcohol. They made drinking of\nalcohol compulsory by law. Every village in Vietnam had to drink a set\namount of alcohol each year and, of course, the French made it illegal for\nanyone to privately distil their own alcohol, something that has been part of\nthe Vietnamese way of life for many years. If you were caught distilling your\nown, you would be imprisoned.\n‘Once the French owned the alcohol market, they moved on to salt\nproduction. The administration bought salt directly from the producers, and\nthen would sell it to the Vietnamese for triple the price. If that wasn’t\nenough, the French then gained control of all the poppy fields and\nencouraged the Vietnamese to smoke opium, resulting in a huge increase in\nthe number of Vietnamese who were addicted to this drug.\n‘With alcohol, salt and opium sales and increasing high taxes, the colonial\nadministration’s income soared. All profits were taken back to France, while\nthe Vietnamese were exploited and treated like slaves, with millions dying\nfrom starvation and malnutrition.’\nHe stops, trying to calm his emotions, then looks at me intently. ‘Now, do\nyou think all that was worth it, just to get some cooking tips off the French?’\nThankfully, the coffees arrive at that moment, giving me time to choose\nmy next words carefully. I explain to him that I realise that Vietnam has had\na very long history of war and hardships — ruled by China for a thousand\nyears, then the French for eighty years, and then the American War. These\ntough times have shaped Vietnam into the country it is today; it has survived\nand grown stronger, and has evolved into a hard-working nation with a fast-\ngrowing economy. Look at all the different genres of art, music and theatre\nthat have been created in the last few centuries, the varying styles of\narchitecture just in Hanoi alone, and then there’s the fabulous food! And\nlook at what we are drinking right now — coffee, introduced by the French.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "The Vietnamese people have taken all things\ngreat from China, France and America and have\nadapted them into their own culture.\nCuong shakes my hand and smiles. ‘I apologise if I got worked up,’ he\nsays. ‘All my ancestors have always experienced famine and poverty, many\nwere slaves to French rubber companies, some fought in the American War,\nand some died at sea attempting to flee the country. Then, there’s me. I’m\nalmost fifty and I’m still only a motorbike taxi driver. But I should stop\nbeing so bitter; at least my kids are all at school and my family eat well.’\nHe stands up to leave. ‘Come on, I’ll show you a place that you might find\ninteresting.’\nWe hop on his bike and ride through a tangled web of tiny streets and\nnarrow lanes, stopping at a busy little intersection on the corner of Luong\nNgoc Quyen and Ta Hien streets. We sit on miniature plastic stools, beside a\nkeg of beer with a small sign that reads, ‘Bia Hoi — 3000 dong’.\n‘This place is known as Bia Hoi corner, and this is where I come most\ndays after work,’ he tells me. ‘Bia hoi means fresh beer, and I’m told that it’s\nthe cheapest beer in the world. I brought you here because I was thinking\nabout what you said about coffee and it being a large part of our culture.\nWell, I think beer is too. Vietnam now has a huge beer drinking culture, and\nI guess we owe that to the French. Take one of our most famous premium\nbeers in Vietnam, 333. This beer was actually introduced by the French\nwhen they started a brewery in Ho Chi Minh in 1893, but then it was called\n33. When the French got booted out, a Vietnamese company took over the\nbrewery and changed the name to 333.’\nWe drink a few beers together and watch as the street begins to fill with\npeople, both local Vietnamese and tourists, all keen to try this cheap beer. A\nyoung backpacker stands up and shouts, ‘Beers are on me!’ Everybody claps\nand cheers. Sixty beers and it cost him AUD 9.00, or 15 cents a glass.\nFor the price, the beer isn’t too bad. It’s low on alcohol and slightly\ncarbonated, as it spends very little time in the fermentation process, usually\n\ngoing straight from brew tank to keg. Street vendors push their carts along\nthe street, selling grilled dried squid, green papaya and dried beef salad, and\npork skewers in crisp baguettes — the perfect drinking food.\nThere are so many Vietnamese dishes that are steamed in beer, cooked in\nbeer or have a beer sauce, that I figure if beer was introduced by the French,\nthen it was the French who influenced these very dishes. I voice my thoughts\nto Cuong who shakes his head, has a bit of a giggle and continues to drink.\nWe sit on that crazy corner of the Old Quarter and share a few more beers\nand many more stories. I go to pay but he pushes my hands away. It is\ncustomary for him to pay as it was he who invited me. He wishes me all the\nbest on my journey of discovery through Vietnam.\n\nCrab steamed in beer\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nAfter coffee and baguettes, beer is the next greatest\nthing that the French introduced to Vietnam. Not only\nhas it become one of Vietnam’s favourite beverages,\nbut it has also become widely used in the kitchen for\ncooking.\nINGREDIENTS\n4 raw blue swimmer crabs\n1 teaspoon sesame oil\n2 tablespoons oyster sauce\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n6 garlic cloves, chopped\n2 teaspoons sugar\npinch of salt\n1 teaspoon ground black pepper\n200 ml (7 fl oz) Asian beer\n6 spring onions (scallions)\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n50 g (1¾ oz) butter\n1 onion, cut into wedges\n4 red Asian shallots, chopped\nMETHOD", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Remove the upper shell of the crab, pick off the gills, which look like little\nfingers, and discard them. Clean the crab under running water and drain.\nPlace the crab on its stomach and chop the crab in half lengthways with a\nheavy cleaver. Now chop each half into 4 pieces, chopping each piece\nbehind each leg. With the back of the cleaver, gently crack each claw (this\nmakes it easier to extract the meat). Repeat for all the crabs.\nCombine the sesame oil, oyster sauce, fish sauce, 1 tablespoon of the\ngarlic, the sugar, salt and pepper in a large mixing bowl, stirring to dissolve\nthe sugar. Add the crabs and toss to coat in the marinade. Set aside to\nmarinate for 20 minutes.\nPlace the crabs in a large metal or bamboo steamer and cover with the lid.\nSit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and steam\nfor 5 minutes. Remove the lid and pour the beer over the crabs, then cover\nagain and continue to steam for a further 10 minutes.\nTrim the spring onions and then chop the white part into 4 cm (1½ inch)\nlengths. Thinly slice the green part of 3 stems.\nHeat a wok over high heat, then add the oil and butter, then the onion,\nshallots, the remaining garlic and the white spring onion lengths. Stir-fry for\n2 minutes until fragrant, then add the steamed crabs and wok-toss for a\nfurther minute. Transfer to a serving platter and garnish with the spring\nonion greens. Serve with Asian beer.\n\nCrispy frogs’ legs\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n2 tablespoons shaoxing rice wine\n1 teaspoon sugar\npinch of salt and pepper\n500 g (1 lb 2 oz) frogs’ legs\n1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) vegetable oil, for deep-frying\n50 g (1¾ oz/1/3 cup) potato starch\n30 g (1 oz) butter\n1 spring onion (scallion), thinly sliced\n2 red Asian shallots, chopped\n1 bird’s eye chilli, thinly sliced\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\nSALT AND PEPPER SEASONING MIX\n1 tablespoon salt\n1 teaspoon sugar\n1 teaspoon ground white pepper\n1 teaspoon ground ginger\n½ teaspoon five–spice\nMETHOD\nCombine the rice wine, sugar, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl, stirring to\ndissolve the sugar. Add the frogs’ legs and toss to coat in the marinade, then\ncover and set aside at room temperature for 20 minutes.\n\nMeanwhile, to make the salt and pepper seasoning mix, combine the\ningredients in a bowl and set aside.\nHeat the oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of\nbread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Remove the frogs’ legs\nfrom the marinade and drain. Working in batches, dust the frogs’ legs with\nthe potato starch, shake off the excess starch, then add them a few at a time\nin quick succession to the oil. Deep-fry for 3 minutes, or until lightly golden\nand crisp, then carefully remove from the oil and place on kitchen paper to\ndrain.\nDrain off all but 2 teaspoons of oil from the wok, then return the wok to\nthe heat. Add the butter, spring onion, shallots, chilli and garlic. Toss to\ncombine, then return the frogs’ legs to the wok. Continue to toss while\nsprinkling over 2 teaspoons of the salt and pepper seasoning mix, or more to\ntaste. Serve immediately.\n\nHidden streets of Hanoi\nTHE SKY IS BLACK; THE MOON IS NOWHERE to be seen. I’m on\nNha Tho Street, which is strangely deserted. I stop in the middle of the\nempty road and look up at St Joseph’s Cathedral, the oldest church in Hanoi,\ntowering above me. It was built in the late 1800s and was one of the first\nbuildings erected by the French colonists, who demolished an ancient\npagoda to do so. It is an eerie but spectacular gothic-looking structure. I see\nwhy people call Hanoi ‘little Paris’ — St Joseph’s bears many similarities to\nthe Notre Dame, which it was intended to replicate.\n\nAt the end of a narrow lane, I notice the glow of burning charcoal and like\na moth to a flame, I’m drawn to its light.\nA boy sits beside the fire, grilling whole shallots, garlic and ginger.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "‘What is all this for?’ I ask him.\n‘It’s for my mother’s pho broth. We have to prepare it now so it’s ready for\nour noodle stall tomorrow morning. Come back at 6 am and it’ll be ready\nthen.’\nI remember Madame Van from the Metropole telling me how Vietnamese\ncooks have adapted to the French technique of chargrilling their vegetables\nfor their beef broths. I ask him if I can stay and watch.\nHe points to a small house nearby. ‘You’ll have to ask my mum.’\nFrom the main street you’d never guess that this neighbourhood even\nexists. The tiny hobbit-like houses with their doors in shades of light green,\npastel blue and purple surround a deep water well, shaded by several large\ntamarind trees. I’m so happy that I’ve discovered this hidden gem.\nAt the house, an elderly lady squats on a concrete floor, slicing onions on a\nwooden chopping block, while a teenage girl slices spring onions by the\nbucket load. I tell them that I am a cook from Australia and ask if it’s okay if\nI watch them cook their broth.\n‘Sure thing!’ the older woman says, then the two look at each other and\nburst into hysterical laughter; it’s quite unusual to meet a young Vietnamese\nmale who wants to learn how to cook street food. The older woman hands\nme a tiny chopping board, a blunt rusty cleaver and a red plastic colander\nfull of fresh sirloin.\n‘Start slicing!’ she says, trying her best to stifle her giggles.\nUnfazed, I grab the tools and wedge myself in between them. Their home\nis the smallest I’ve ever seen in Vietnam; it’s like a doll’s house — there is\nbarely enough room even for the three of us.\nHis mother wears a back brace, which she tells me she puts on as soon as\nshe wakes up. I tell her that crouching on the floor all day will only hurt her\nback more, that she needs a work bench to prepare the food on. She looks\naround her cramped house and tells me she has nowhere to put it.\n‘I have been cooking this dish for over thirty years. I used to do all the\npreparation myself, but now I need my children to help me. Nowadays my\nback won’t allow me to even lift the pot onto the small burner.’\n\nHer son returns with the blackened shallots, garlic and ginger. She takes\nthem from him and peels the skin, then thinly slices them.\n‘Grilling these aromatic vegetables helps bring out maximum flavour and\naroma,’ she explains. ‘It brings out their natural sweetness and also imparts\ngreat colour to the stock.’\nHer son lifts a large pot onto a clay charcoal burner, his mother adds some\noxtail and beef brisket, then the chargrilled shallots, garlic and ginger, and a\nspice bag filled with roasted cassia bark, cardamom, cloves, fennel seeds,\ncoriander seeds, peppercorns and star anise. The son fetches water from the\nwell then pours it in. She brings it to the boil, reduces the heat, then lets it\nsimmer, allowing it to release all of its magical aromas overnight while they\nsleep.\n\nBeef noodle soup\nSERVES 8\nINGREDIENTS\n4 tablespoons salt\n1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) oxtail (chopped into 3 cm/1¼ inch pieces)\n1 garlic bulb, unpeeled\n4 large onions, unpeeled\n150 g (5½ oz) ginger, unpeeled\n1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) beef bones\n2 kg (4 lb 8 oz) beef brisket\n185 ml (6 fl oz/¾ cup) fish sauce\n80 g (2¾ oz) rock sugar\n1.6 kg (3 lb 8 oz) fresh rice noodles, 1 cm (½ inch) wide (you will need\nabout 200 g/7 oz per person)\n400 g (14 oz) trimmed sirloin, thinly sliced against the grain\n4 spring onions (scallions), sliced\nground black pepper\ncoriander (cilantro) sprigs, to garnish\n230 g (8 oz/2 cups) bean sprouts\n1 bunch Asian basil\n2 bird’s eye chillies, sliced\n1 lime, cut into wedges\nSPICE POUCH\n2 teaspoons coriander seeds\n2 teaspoons sichuan peppercorns", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "2 teaspoons cumin seeds\n2 teaspoons fennel seeds\n8 cloves\n5 star anise\n2 x 10 cm (4 inch) pieces of cassia bark\n1 tablespoon black peppercorns\n40 cm (16 inch) square muslin cloth\nMETHOD\nFill a large saucepan with cold water, add 3 tablespoons of the salt, then\nsubmerge the oxtail in the water. Soak for 1 hour, then drain.\nTo make the spice pouch, dry-roast each ingredient separately in a frying\npan over medium–low heat, shaking the pan constantly, for 1–2 minutes, or\nuntil fragrant. Cool, then coarsely grind using a mortar and pestle or electric\nspice grinder. Add the ground spices to the muslin square and tie up tightly\nin a knot. Set aside.\nHeat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium–high heat and grill the\nunpeeled garlic bulb, onions and ginger, turning often, for 15 minutes, or\nuntil all sides are blackened. Cool slightly then, when cool enough to handle,\npeel off the blackened skins and discard them, and then roughly chop. By\ndoing this, the garlic, onion and ginger become sweet and fragrant, releasing\nmore flavour into the stock.\nPut the oxtail, beef bones, brisket and 6 litres (210 fl oz) of cold water in a\nstockpot and bring to the boil. While the stock is boiling, constantly skim\nany impurities off the surface for 15 minutes (this will ensure a clean, clear\nbroth), then reduce the heat to a low simmer. Add the fish sauce, remaining 1\ntablespoon of salt, rock sugar, garlic, onion, ginger and spice pouch. Cover\nand simmer for 4 hours, or until the stock has reduced by a third. Strain the\nstock through some muslin into another pan. Remove the brisket, set aside to\ncool, then thinly slice. Skim any fat off the stock and discard it.\nDivide the noodles into eight equal portions. Working with one portion at a\ntime, blanch them in boiling water for 20 seconds. Drain, then transfer to a\nserving bowl. Place 3 or 4 slices of brisket on top of the noodles, followed\n\nby 3 or 4 pieces of raw sirloin. Pour over the hot stock to cover the noodles\nand beef.\nGarnish each bowl with 1 tablespoon of sliced spring onion, a pinch of\npepper and a coriander sprig. At the table, add bean sprouts, Asian basil,\nchilli and a squeeze of lime.\n\nPan–fried cinnamon prawns\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n1 teaspoon oyster sauce\n2 teaspoons sugar\n¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon\n¼ teaspoon ground cumin\n¼ teaspoon red curry powder (I like to use Ayam brand)\n300 g (10½ oz) raw large prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined, tails intact\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n2 cm (¾ inch) piece of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced\n2 teaspoons chopped garlic\n2 red Asian shallots, chopped\n6 spring onions (scallions), cut into 5 cm (2 inch) lengths\n1 long red chilli, sliced\nsteamed jasmine rice, to serve\nMETHOD\nCombine the fish sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, cinnamon, cumin and curry\npowder in a mixing bowl. Add the prawns and toss to coat in the marinade,\nthen cover and place in the fridge to marinate for 10 minutes.\nHeat the oil in a large frying pan over high heat. Add the ginger, garlic and\nshallots and fry for 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the prawns and cook for\n1 minute on each side. Add the spring onion and 2 tablespoons of water and\n\ntoss for a further minute. Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with the\nchilli. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Mrs Chan’s 150-year-old charcuterie\nstore\nI AM WALKING AIMLESSLY UP AND DOWN Hang Bong Street in\nthe scorching heat, and have been doing so for twenty minutes now,\ndesperately searching for Madame Delphine’s favourite charcuterie store.\nI’m about ready to give up.\nI gulp down some more water and pour the rest over my head, then watch\nas steam rises from my shoulders. It’s then that I notice a little store across\nthe road, sandwiched between two handicraft stores, a queue twenty deep\ncurling out the front door. The sign above says ‘Quoc Huong’. Finally, I’ve\nfound it!\nThe counter is stacked with pork terrines wrapped and bound in banana\nleaf, the shelves behind are filled with jars of pork floss and every type of\npickle imaginable. Open trays of mayonnaise, pork and chicken liver pàté\nhave wooden spatulas in them, perfect for scooping up as much as you need.\nSome people stock up on whole terrines and containers of pàté, while others\nare here for just a few steamed fish cakes or pieces of dried beef to snack on.\nThe store has charm and character, a real artisan feel to it.\nTowards the back there is a cooking area, the benches lined with old\nblackened ovens. Cane baskets and plastic colanders are piled high, with\ncontainers of spices and ingredients scattered on any available floor space.\nWoks set on portable gas stoves are his sing and simmering with their lids\non; I’m intrigued as to what is cooking beneath.\nAn elderly woman stands behind the counter, greeting each of her\ncustomers by name. Her name is Mrs Chan and she proudly tells me that her\nstore is over 150 years old, a small family business passed down through\nfour generations. She introduces me to her two sons and three daughters.\nThere is such a gentle warmth in this room, and I can sense the passion that\neach has for this wonderful store. Noticing my curiosity, the eldest daughter\n\ntells me what’s cooking in the woks: it’s the family’s age-old recipe for dried\nbeef.\n‘The beef is first marinated overnight in secret herbs and spices. It is then\ncooked in a simmering stock for one hour. It is cooled then sliced super thin\nand stir-fried in a dry wok for half an hour. After that we put it in the ovens\non low heat to dry for two hours, then toss it in a mixture of medicinal\nherbs.’\nShe gives me a little piece to taste. Though it’s dried, it is still moist; the\ntexture is nice and chewy, with the perfect balance of saltiness and sweetness\nand just the right amount of spice. She tells me that this isn’t the kind of\ndried beef that is kept for months in the pantry, but is designed to be eaten\nright away, put in green papaya salads or simply eaten as a snack, and\nbecause of the medicinal herbs that are tossed through it, it’s also good for\nsore throats.\nHer mother passes me an old family photograph, giggling girlishly. ‘That’s\nme when I was just a few years old,’ she says, pointing to the young girl in\nthe photo. ‘And the lady carrying me is my aunty. She is now 103 years old\nand still going strong. See what eating good food can do for your health!’\nI ask her if the family were making pàté and pork terrines 150 years ago,\nor if that was something that was introduced when the French arrived. She’s\nnot sure so she calls her aunt.\n‘My aunty says that the family have always been making terrines, pork\nfloss and dried beef, but pàté came at a much later stage, about the same\ntime the French were here, when the Vietnamese people also began to eat\nbaguettes.’\nPàté and baguettes — they have become such staples in Vietnamese\ncuisine that I find it hard to imagine life without them…", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Chicken and pork liver pâté\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nPàté is found everywhere throughout Vietnam,\nseemingly on every street corner, and always served\nwith a crisp baguette, another culinary legacy of the\nFrench occupation.\nINGREDIENTS\n200 g (7 oz) pork livers\n200 g (7 oz) chicken livers\n100 g (3½ oz) butter, softened\n100 g (3½ oz) minced (ground) pork\n2 red Asian shallots, finely chopped\n2 garlic cloves, finely chopped\n2 tablespoons brandy or Cognac\n4 tablespoons pouring (whipping) cream\n1 teaspoon sugar\n2 teaspoons salt\n½ teaspoon ground white pepper\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMETHOD\nClean the livers of fat and sinew. Cut the pork livers to match the size of the\nchicken livers. Wash under cold water, dry well with kitchen paper and set\naside.\n\nPut 2 teaspoons of the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat.\nWhen the butter starts to bubble, add half the livers and fry for 1–2 minutes\nuntil browned, then turn them over and brown the other side for 1–2\nminutes, making sure the livers remain pink in the middle. Remove to a\nplate, then repeat the process with a little more butter and the remaining\nlivers.\nAdd 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan and gently cook the pork mince for\nabout 2 minutes, or until cooked through but not browned. Remove and set\naside. Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper, then add 2 teaspoons of butter\nand gently fry the shallots and garlic for 5 minutes, or until very soft and\nslightly caramelised. Increase the heat, then return the livers and pork to the\npan, pour over the brandy or Cognac and ignite the alcohol. Once the flame\nsubsides, pour the liver mixture into a food processor and process until\nsmooth. With the motor running, add the remaining butter and the cream.\nSeason the pàté with the sugar, salt and white pepper; taste and adjust the\nseasoning if necessary. Pour into a container and refrigerate for about 2\nhours, or until set. Before serving, remove from the fridge and let stand at\nroom temperature for 30 minutes. Serve with baguettes.\n\nRed braised pork belly\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nLocal Hanoians line up for hours for Mrs Chan’s red\nbraised pork belly, which they take home and stuff\ninto freshly baked crisp baguettes along with some\npàté and mayonnaise.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) boneless pork belly\n½ teaspoon Chinese red food colouring\n4 garlic cloves, finely chopped\n2 tablespoons soy sauce\n1 tablespoon five–spice\n1 tablespoon salt\n1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) young coconut water\nMETHOD\nPlace the pork in a dish. In a small bowl, mix the red food colouring with 1\ntablespoon of cold water, stirring to dissolve. Brush the mixture all over the\npork until well coloured. Combine the garlic, soy sauce, five-spice and salt.\nMassage this mixture into the pork, then cover the pork and place in the\nfridge to marinate for 1 hour.\nBring the coconut water to the boil in a large saucepan over high heat.\nPlace the pork flat on the work surface, skin side down, and roll up tightly\nfrom the narrow end, from the bottom up. Tie the pork with kitchen string at\n2 cm (¾ inch) intervals, then place the pork into the boiling coconut water.\n\nCover the pan, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1½ hours, or\nuntil tender, turning the pork regularly during cooking time.\nOnce cooked, allow the pork to cool in the liquid before slicing the\namount you require. Serve with rice, vermicelli noodles or in crisp\nVietnamese baguettes. The pork will keep for up to 4 days in the fridge.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Chef Didier Corlou\nIT’S 5 PM AND THE SUN IS BEGINNING TO set. It’s the perfect time\nto chat to a chef: lunch service is finished and preparations for dinner are\nalmost complete. The evening sky is a stunning purplish pink and there’s a\nrare cool breeze in the air, so I decide to walk. I’m on my way to meet Didier\nCorlou, a master chef originally from Brittany in France. I have heard so\nmuch about Didier, but have never had the chance to meet him in person.\nDidier’s restaurant, the much-renowned La Verticale, is located on a quiet\ntree-lined street called Ngo Van So, not too far from the city centre. My jaw\ndrops as I arrive and take in the sight before me. What a dream to have a\nrestaurant like this, set in a classic art deco 1930s four-storey French villa, a\nbuilding steeped in so much history and with so much charm!\nI pick up the perfume of aromatic spices as I enter the front room. I feel as\nif I’ve walked into an Asian apothecary as I find myself surrounded by huge\ncoils of cinnamon, jars of star anise, sichuan peppers and coriander seeds.\nThere is an assortment of aged fish sauce, pink nuoc mam salt, Phu Quoc\npeppers, home-made goat’s cheese, curry powder concoctions in test tubes,\nand shelves stocked with Didier’s cookbooks. The building retains its\noriginal tiles and walls; the kitchen is the only modern thing in sight. I spot\nDidier from afar; he is being interviewed by a camera crew. He stops and\nwaves at me, signalling that he won’t be long.\nMinutes later he greets me and asks if I want a glass of wine. He looks\nexhausted but his energy is contagious. He speaks at a million miles an hour\nwith a thick French accent, which keeps me on the edge of my seat.\n‘I’ve spent the last three days with two different camera crews from\nFrance. We’ve gone to th markets, eaten street food, and tomorrow I go to\nQuy Nhon to meet up with seafood suppliers,’ he says without hardly\nstopping for breath. ‘I’ve just opened my latest restaurant, Madame Hien, a\nfew months ago, it is bigger, busier, non-stop — still smoothing things out\n\nthere, but it is good. I have a function for the French consulate tonight, and\nI’m working on a new menu. So… how are you?’\nWe talk about life in general for a bit, then I get down to what I’ve come\nfor: I ask him to tell me how he ended up in Vietnam.\n‘I spent many years as Executive Chef at Pullman Hotels in France, before\ngetting transferred to Hanoi in 1991 to set up the new restaurants at the\nSofitel Metropole. I was there for fifteen years before setting up my own\nrestaurant. I initially started out introducing Vietnam to French cuisine,\nblending French sauces with Vietnamese flavours, but as the years go on and\nVietnamese cuisine evolves, I find that Vietnamese food now influences my\nFrench cooking.\n‘I have worked and cooked all over the world, but nothing beats living in\nVietnam. I fell in love with it as soon as I arrived. The people are\nwonderfully hospitable, the landscape so beautiful, the produce is\nfantastically fresh, the culture is strong and the food…well… what can I say,\nit’s the best in the world! I think that both cuisines are quite similar: both the\nFrench and Vietnamese love subtle flavours, focus on fresh produce and both\neat similar things — offal, eel, frogs, smoked ham, cured sausage and even\nsnails. The two cuisines work in such harmony together.’\nI ask him about pho noodle soup and if it has French origins. Didier\nexplains that he did a series of seminars on pho many years ago and released\na booklet to discuss the topic and the possible origins of the soup. He grabs a\ncopy of the booklet and passes it to me to read…\n\nPho is essentially a soup, served with noodles, consommé, thinly sliced\nbeef and sometimes onion. Each diner adds some fish sauce, chilli, fragrant\nfresh herbs and spices, and a squeeze of lemon. Traditionally, pho was only\nserved in the morning and Hanoians only ate the soup on Sundays or in", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "times of poor health, but nowadays it is eaten at any time of day, most often\nas street food. While pho is known andloved all over Vietnam, it is claimed\nthat Hanoi is the best place to go for pho.\nAs I had suspected, the exact origins of pho are a mystery and no one\nseems to know for sure if it wasa Vietnamese creation or if it was adapted\nfrom a blend of culinary traditions, although most will agree that there are\ndefinite French and Chinese influences.\nThe presentation of the food is truly\nexceptional, the balance of flavours and textures\nis incredible … For me, this meal is the perfect\nrepresentation of the evolution of Vietnamese\ncuisine.\nDidier’s booklet explains that Nguyen Dinh Rao, president of the Unesco\nGastronomy Club in Hanoi, insists that the birthplace of pho was in Nam\nDinh city, in the Red River Delta in northern Vietnam. He claims that at the\nbeginning of the twentieth century a large textile industry was established\nthere, and many of the new city workers and French and Vietnamese soldiers\nall wanted a dish that was less rustic than the traditional soups of the area.\nThe bouillon and the rice noodles are distinctly Vietnamese he claims, but to\nmeet the taste of the Europeans, beef and other ingredients were added.\nOne theory is that the word pho comes from a corruption of the French\nfeu, meaning fire. Others agree that pho was inspired by the boiled French\ndish, le pot au feu. Didier agrees, pointing out that pot au feu and pho stock\nare both made using marrow bones and charred onion to give a better colour\nand flavour.\nAfter reading the excerpts from Didier’s booklet, my respect for the man\ngrows tenfold. Never have I met a person as knowledgeable and as\npassionate about Vietnamese cuisine and culture as he. I could spend all\nnight chatting to him but Didier has to get back to his kitchen. Instead of\nrushing off I decide I will stay for dinner.\n\nI walk up the spiral staircase to the main dining room, glancing at the\nframed black-and-white pictures of Didier’s Breton family on the wall, of his\nHanoian wife, their two children and his Vietnamese in-laws. I realise then\nthat his new restaurant, Madame Hien, is named after his mother-in-law.\nI have a quiet corner table to myself. It is set not only with a wine glass,\nknife and fork, but also with chopsticks, salt, pepper, ground chilli, star anise\nand black cardamom. Like the table setting and Didier’s cooking, the room\ntoo reflects both Vietnamese and French influences. Antique tiles and thick\nstone columns work nicely with wooden red chairs and contemporary\nVietnamese artwork.\nI don’t need to order the food, it begins to arrive in a slow procession:\ncoconut palm rice paper rolls with chives and black truffles; Dalat artichoke\nwith clams and vinaigrette dressing; sea bass fillet fried with sweet chillies,\nbok choy and fresh star anise; and goat’s cheese with truffles and sprouts\nmarinated in pollen liquor.\nThe presentation of the food is truly exceptional, the balance of flavours\nand textures is incredible and the colonial ambience — brilliant. For me, this\nmeal is the perfect representation of the evolution of Vietnamese cuisine.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Stephan, Tin and the Green Tangerine\nHANOI ON A SATURDAY NIGHT — I HAVE NEVER seen anything\nlike it. The streets are heaving with people and motorbikes. It’s anarchy on\nthe roads: the motorised do as they please, riding up onto the footpaths,\nhonking their horns and bullying the pedestrians out of their way. I am one\nof those on foot and even I can barely walk, yet despite the snail’s pace at\nwhich we all move, no one complains.\nSaturday night is market night. The surrounding streets of the Old Quarter\nhave been closed and vendors are now free to sprawl their goods onto the\nstreets. Fake Gucci boots are up for sale alongside flash-fried nem rolls\nfilled with crab, prawns and pork; frogs’ legs, chilli and lemongrass are\ntossed in a flaming wok beside a stand that sells propaganda postcards. A\nballoon seller pushes past, struggling to control a bunch of balloons so large\nthat I wonder why they haven’t lifted her up into the clouds. Everything is\nhappening here and there’s nothing you can’t find.\nI manage to break free from the human traffic and head towards my\ndestination. I have arranged to meet one of Hanoi’s leading restaurateurs,\nand we’ve planned to meet at a popular food stand.\nStephan and his wife, Tin, are already there, sitting kerb side with a beer\nin hand. I notice that they’re both smartly dressed; very appropriate attire I\nthink to myself, as street food is such a theatrical experience. This place\nserves only two dishes: bo nuong vi, marinated beef cooked at the table, and\nbo sot vang, beef slowly braised in wine. This is the French-inspired dish\nthat Madame Van recommended to me, and I have been waiting to try it all\nweek.\nA boy drops a portable gas cooker on our table, turns it on high, then\nplaces a heavy iron plate on top to heat up. The waiter brings out an\nenormous platter of finely sliced beef, which has been marinated in garlic\noil, sesame oil and lemongrass. There’s another platter laden with various\nfresh mint leaves, star fruit, bean sprouts and rice paper. We sit in the open\n\nair, chatting, drinking and chargrilling our beef, a thick cloud of fragrant\nsmoke rising above us.\n\nStephan is French–Vietnamese, and both he and Tin are the owners of\nGreen Tangerine on Hang Be, a restaurant set in a beautifully restored\nFrench townhouse. I wanted to meet up with them to learn about Stephan’s\nfamily history and to hear more about their very successful restaurant.\n‘My father was a captain in the French army,’ Stephan tells me. ‘He met\nmy mother in Hanoi where they eventually married. When colonial rule\nended, my parents were forced to go to Brittany, where I was born. We only\nspoke French at home; we were forbidden to speak Vietnamese. The only\ntime we heard Vietnamese spoken was when my parents would fight and\nargue. Because of that we began to believe that Vietnamese was an ugly\nlanguage, so we didn’t want to learn it anyway. We knew nothing about\nVietnam or my mother’s heritage, and we were forbidden to find out.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "I left my job and began to cook more and more,\nre-creating all the wonderful food my parents\ncooked in France, using imported French\ningredients to cook Vietnamese food.\n‘The only positive thing we knew about Vietnam was its food. Every day,\nmy parents used French ingredients to cook authentic Vietnamese dishes.\nAs I grew older I began to wonder why we weren’t allowed to talk about\nVietnam yet we were eating Vietnamese cuisine on a daily basis.\nDetermined to discover my heritage, I rebelled. At family gatherings I\nwould ask uncles, aunties and grandparents about Vietnam’s culture and\ntraditions. When they were all gathered together as a family, it was so\nobvious that there was more Vietnamese cultural energy than there was\nFrench. So why were they all in such denial?\n‘In 1993 I signed on for a job as an engineer in biology. We travelled to\nVietnam to screen for hepatitis and HIV. My family ordered me not to go,\nbut we all do what we are told not to.\n‘My work eventually took me to Hanoi. At that stage I had been in\nVietnam for almost two years and I enjoyed every moment of it. One night\nmy friends and I visited a restaurant that served Pan-Asian cuisine; it was\nnew and different so I had to check it out. The food was delicious and the\nbusiness was run really well. It was owned by Tin and her family, and that’s\nwhere we met. We had the same passion for food — and for each other. We\nmarried not long after.\n‘As my love for food grew, I left my job and began to cook more and\nmore, re-creating all the wonderful food my parents cooked in France, using\nimported French ingredients to cook Vietnamese food. So the idea of Green\nTangerine was born. Tin’s mother hits the markets at 4 am every day,\nsourcing the freshest produce and, like Vietnamese cuisine, Green\nTangerine is constantly evolving.’\nThe next dish arrives and Stephan opens his arms wide as if about to\nembrace it. ‘Street food is king!’ he says as the waiter sets down a basket of\n\ncrisp baguettes and individual bowls of bo sot vang. The sauce is thick,\ndeep in colour from the red wine and annatto. Star anise, cinnamon and\nfive-spice release aromas that we can’t resist. We pick up our baguettes, tear\noff pieces and quickly drown our bread in it. The brisket is soft, moist and\ntender from being cooked for many hours. It is refined and so delicious. It is\nindeed a meal fit for royalty and we are feasting like kings and queens.\n\nSteamed Murray cod with passionfruit sauce\nSERVES 4\nStephan and Tin are very proud of this dish as it\ndisplays both Vietnamese and French cooking\ntechniques and flavours.\nINGREDIENTS\n4 x 200 g (7 oz) Murray cod fillets, skinned (or other skinless firm white fish\nfillets)\n½ bunch dill\n28 English spinach leaves\n370 g (13 oz/2 cups) steamed jasmine rice, warm\n300 g (10½ oz) passionfruit, juiced with seeds\n80 g (2¾ oz) sugar\njuice of 1 lemon\nMETHOD\nTo mould the fish and the spinach parcels you will need four 4 cm (1½ inch)\nand eight 12 cm (4½ inch) round pastry cutters.\nTo steam and mould the fish fillets, first place four greased 4 cm (1½ inch)\nround pastry cutters into the middle of four greased 12 cm (4½ inch) round\npastry cutters. Place a fish fillet in between the two cutters so that it becomes\na circular shape. Sprinkle the fish with some dill, salt and pepper. Repeat\nwith the other three fillets.\nLine a large bamboo steamer with baking paper and punch a few holes in\nthe paper. Place the fish fillets (still in the pastry cutters) in the steamer and", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "cover with the lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling\nwater and steam for 8 minutes. Remove and set aside.\nMeanwhile, blanch the spinach in boiling water for 30 seconds, then\nrefresh in iced water and drain. Divide the spinach leaves over the remaining\nfour 12 cm (4½ inch) pastry cutters, overlapping the leaves slightly to form a\nstar-like shape. Divide the warm steamed rice into four portions and mould\nthe steamed rice into the spinach-lined cutters, then enclose the leaves\naround the rice and press down firmly to make a neat parcel. Set aside.\nIn a small saucepan, combine the passionfruit, sugar and lemon juice.\nCook over medium heat for 5 minutes, or until the sugar dissolves and the\nsauce thickens a little. Set aside.\nPlace a spinach parcel onto each serving plate, then remove the pastry\ncutters. Place the steamed fish on top of the spinach and carefully remove\nthe pastry cutters. Pour 1 tablespoon of passionfruit sauce over the top and\ngarnish with a sprig of dill.\n\nMeringue et passion\nSERVES 4\nINGREDIENTS\n2 eggs, separated\n170 g (6 oz) caster (superfine) sugar\n125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) strained passionfruit juice (about 8 passionfruit)\n125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) milk\n1 tablespoon plain (all–purpose) flour\n100 g (3½ oz) mascarpone\nicing (confectioners’) sugar, for dusting (optional)\nMETHOD\nPreheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2). Line a baking tray with baking\npaper.\nTo make the meringues, use an electric mixer to whisk the egg whites until\nsoft peaks form, then slowly add 130 g (4½ oz) of the sugar. Whisk until the\nmeringue is shiny and stiff peaks form.\nSpoon the meringue into four large mounds onto the prepared tray, spacing\nthem apart. Use a palette knife to smooth them into neat balls. Alternatively,\npipe the meringues into four large mounds using a large piping (icing)\nnozzle. Place in the oven and cook for 45–50 minutes. Remove from the\noven and set aside to cool.\nTo make the passionfruit sauce, put the passionfruit juice and 20 g (¾ oz)\nof the sugar in a saucepan, stirring occasionally until the sugar has dissolved.\nBring to a simmer and cook for 2 minutes, or until reduced and thickened.\nRemove the pan from the heat and place in the fridge to cool.\n\nHeat the milk in a small saucepan. Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks and the\nremaining 20 g (¾ oz) of sugar until pale and thick. Add the flour and beat\nwell, then transfer to a small saucepan. Slowly add the warm milk to the egg\nyolk mixture over very low heat, stirring until thickened. Remove the pan\nfrom the heat, cover the custard directly with plastic wrap, and set aside until\ncooled to room temperature. When the custard has cooled, add the\nmascarpone and 2 tablespoons of the passionfruit sauce and stir to combine.\nFill a piping bag with the passionfruit custard.\nUsing a small spoon, gently scoop out a small hole from the base of the\nmeringues and then pipe the passionfruit custard into the hole. Place each\nfilled meringue onto a serving plate. Combine the remaining passionfruit\nsauce with 3 tablespoons of water to thin it a little, then pour the sauce\naround each meringue. If you like, dust with icing sugar before serving.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Fried chocolate truffles with pink pepper\nSERVES 4–6\nThis is one of Green Tangerine’s signature desserts. It\nwould have to be the most unusual chocolate dessert I\nhave ever seen, which is why I love it!\nTRUFFLES\n100 g (3½ oz) dark chocolate, chopped\n30 ml (1 fl oz) thickened cream\n20 g (¾ oz) unsalted butter\n1 teaspoon ground pink peppercorns\nBATTER\n2 eggs\n50 g (1¾ oz) sugar\n100 g (3½ oz/2/3cup) plain (all–purpose) flour\n25 g (1 oz) unsweetened cocoa powder, plus extra to serve\nvegetable oil, for deep–frying\nMETHOD\nTo make the truffles, melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan\nof simmering water. Add the cream, butter and pink pepper and mix well\nuntil smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and press a piece of plastic\nwrap onto the surface of the chocolate to prevent a skin forming.\nChill the chocolate mixture in the fridge for about 20 minutes, to firm up a\nlittle. After this time, roll the chocolate into small marble-sized balls, or use\n\na melon baller to scoop the mixture into small balls, and arrange them on a\ntray lined with baking paper. Place the tray and chocolate balls in the freezer\nfor 1 hour.\nTo make the batter, combine the eggs, sugar, flour and cocoa powder in a\nmixing bowl. Mix together well, making sure you get rid of any lumps, then\nslowly add 50 ml (1¾ fl oz) water, mixing well to form a smooth, thick\nbatter. Cover and set aside at room temperature for 10 minutes.\nHalf-fill a medium-sized saucepan with the oil and heat to 180°C (350°F),\nor until a cube of bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Using an\noiled tablespoon, coat each truffle ball, one at a time, with the batter, then\ntransfer into the hot oil, pulling the spoon away from you to the other side of\nthe pan — the batter will slide off the spoon, creating a long teardrop. Deep-\nfry the truffle for 30 seconds, then carefully transfer to kitchen paper to\ndrain. Repeat this process with the remaining chocolate balls.\nBefore serving, sprinkle a little cocoa powder over the top of the chocolate\ntruffles.\n\nList of Recipes\nChargrilled beef and asparagus mustard rolls\nGreen mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab\nQuail cooked in orange and coconut water\nPumpkin flowers stuffed with prawns and dill\nRabbit in red wine\nBeef tongue slow-braised in red wine\nCoq au vin\nHeart of palm and tomato salad with Vietnamese herbs\nDalat artichoke and pork rib soup\nWok-tossed cabbage with garlic\nWarm beef and watercress salad\nAsparagus wok-tossed with Asian mushrooms\nCaramelised pork belly with quail eggs\nVietnamese baguette\nBaguette with steamed pork balls\nGreen tea-smoked duck\n\nI’M ABOVE THE CLOUDS, FLYING OVER SOFT FLUFFY puffs of\nwhite; if only I could jump out, spread my arms and lay on them. As the\nplane begins its descent, the clouds gracefully disappear, revealing a\nlandscape like no other I’ve seen in Vietnam. A vibrant patchwork green of\nrolling hills as far as the eye can see, a landscape of pine forests, French\nvillas and beautiful lakes — I feel as if I’ve stumbled into the French Alps in\nspringtime.\nThe doors open and the gush of crisp, cool air that enters the plane sends\nme rummaging through my bag for my jacket. After the intense heat of the\nlast week, the cooler climate is welcome relief indeed! I have arrived in the\nCentral Highlands of Vietnam, in a town called Dalat, the ‘city of eternal\nspring’.\nThe name Da Lat comes from the hill tribe groups, the original inhabitants\nof the region, and its name means ‘stream of the Lat people’. Dalat is 1500\nmetres above sea level, and its cool climate and high rainfall make it ideal\nfor growing vegetables and herbs.\n\nGuests having lunch in the gardens of the Dalat Palace in the early 1900s\n\nDalat train station in the early 1900s; Dalat train station as it is today; Guests arriving at the Dalat\nPalace by plane\n\nVilla built by the French in the early 1900s;", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Vietnamese workers and their French employer\nIn 1893, Swiss-born French physician Dr Alexandre Yersin, a protégé of\nDr Louis Pasteur, visited the region, its ever green trees and hills reminding\nhim of his homeland. So enamoured was he of the town’s charms, he\nrecommended the French colonial administration form a health resort in the\narea. Soon hotels, chalets and villas began to spring up all over town, and\nFrench government officials, military personnel and foreign dignitaries,\nlooking for a respite from the oppressive heat of the cities, flocked here on\nweekends — a playground for the colony’s rich when en vacance.\nThe area became known as ‘le petit Paris’, and much of its French colonial\npast is still evident today. One of the oldest French hotels still standing is the\nluxurious Dalat Palace, built in 1922. It became the epicentre around which\nthe rest of the town developed, and housed the social elite. Hoping to get just\na glimpse of the glitz and glamour of life back then, I have booked a room\nthere.\nAs I wheel my bags out of the airport, my dream life begins to unfold. I\nspot a man dressed in a black suit, standing in front of a beautifully restored\nblack and gold vintage Citroën, holding a sign: ‘Mr Luke Nguyen’.\n‘That’s me! That’s me!’ I shriek as I run towards him, barely able to\ncontain my excitement. Not very cool, I must admit. I had seen this type of\n\ncar in Hanoi, but now I’m about to ride in one.\nI nestle into the car’s soft, dark red seats and breathe in the scent of old\nleather. The drive through town transports me to the Europe of a hundred\nyears ago, as we pass lakes, churches, convents, windmills and a treasure\ntrove of French provincial architecture. The car pulls into the grounds of the\nDalat Palace, down a long driveway surrounded by hectares of lush rolling\nlawns and flower beds. This place is like a country estate and I feel like a\nking.\n\nDalat Palace\nTHE CITROËN SLOWS TO A HALT IN FRONT OF THE Dalat Palace\nhotel and I step out onto red carpet. In the lobby, four hosts warmly greet\nme, offering a variety of Asian and European teas. The hotel’s decor is\nmagnificently elegant: the lobby is dotted with plush chairs, an elaborate\nchandelier hangs from the high ceiling, and even the floor tiles are works of\nart. There is no need to check in. I’m guided up a grand staircase to my\nroom, with Edith Piaf’s La vie en rose playing in the background.\nMy room has French doors that open out onto a view of the picturesque\nXuan Huong Lake. There’s no shower, only a claw-foot bathtub. I imagine\nmyself here a hundred years ago; I would spend all day in my room soaking\nin the tub or writing letters to friends and family with my fountain pen, and\nsealing the envelopes with hot wax… But letter writing will have to wait; I\nhead down to the hotel’s signature restaurant, Le Rabelais, and take a seat at\na table dressed with pressed linen and set with fine crystal.\n\nThe waitress, dressed as they did centuries ago with a ruffled petal-shaped\napron and head piece, shows me the ‘1926 Menu’. This menu is a re-creation\nof an original menu found in the Dalat museum, and has been carefully\nreplicated by the hotel’s chefs…\n‘Young rabbit aspic with apple foie gras, pickled shallot and mushroom;\nBread consommé with beef and porto sauce;\nRoasted chicken and red beans with bacon, and\nfine green salad of the moment;\nSelection of cheeses;\nFresh fruit tart with raspberry coulis.’\nThere is no way I can eat all that myself, so I opt for the à la carte menu\nand order a dish called ‘The best of Dalat, from the hill to the garden’, as I’m\ncurious to see what produce is grown here.\nMy meal arrives and it is truly decadent: asparagus soup; smoked duck\nrillettes; pumpkin flowers stuffed with goat’s cheese; and artichoke and\navocado rice paper rolls served with raspberry chutney — all beautifully\narranged and finished with a scattering of edible flowers. The chef, dressed", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "in crisp starched whites and a very tall chef’s hat, comes out to check on my\nmeal. His name is Linh and he has been cooking in the Rabelais’ kitchen for\nover fifteen years. He tells me that in the early 1900s Dalat was well known\nas good hunting grounds for wild boar, black bears, deer, panthers, tigers,\nelephants and peacocks, and that guests once stood out on the restaurant\nbalcony and shot these animals for entertainment. Sadly, hunting was so\npopular in Dalat that most of these animals no longer exist here.\nBut I’m not interested in hunting, I want to learn more about the fresh\nherbs and vegetables that grow so abundantly throughout Dalat, which\nvarieties were introduced by the French and what other foods and influences\nthey brought with them. I ask chef Linh where he sources his produce. He\ntells me he has many suppliers, but one grower in particular supplies all of\nhis European herbs, such as thyme, sage and rosemary — a small farm just\non the outskirts of town called the Golden Garden.\nThe sun is shining but the air is cool so I wrap myself in a scarf, borrow a\nmotorbike from the hotel and head to the hills, to embark on my French\ndiscovery tour of Dalat.\nThe Palace’s vintage Citroën\n\nDalat Palace in the early 1900s.\n\nChargrilled beef and asparagus mustard rolls\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED STARTER\nDijon mustard is a fantastic French ingredient that the\nVietnamese now enjoy using in many of their dishes.\nHere the mustard is married with the Asian flavours\nof soy and fish sauce to make a surprisingly\nwonderful combination.\nINGREDIENTS\n500 g (1 lb 2 oz) beef sirloin\n1 tablespoon soy sauce\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n2 teaspoons sesame oil\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\n2 tablespoons sugar\n1 teaspoon salt\n1 teaspoon ground black pepper\n10 asparagus spears, trimmed\n2 carrots, peeled and sliced to the length of the asparagus (you’ll need 10\npieces of carrot)\n2½ tablespoons dijon mustard\n10 spring onions (scallions), white part only\n1 tablespoon vegetable oil\n1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds\nlight soy sauce and sliced red chilli, for dipping\n\nMETHOD\nTrim the beef and thinly slice it into ten 5 x 8 cm (2 x 3¼ inch) pieces.\nCombine the soy sauce, fish sauce, sesame oil, garlic, sugar, salt and pepper\nin a mixing bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the beef and toss to coat\nin the marinade, then cover and set aside at room temperature for 20\nminutes.\nMeanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to the boil, add the asparagus and\nblanch for 2 minutes. Drain, then place the asparagus in iced water to stop\nthe cooking process. Drain and set aside. Repeat the process to blanch the\ncarrots.\nLay the beef slices on a chopping board and spread 1 teaspoon of mustard\nover each slice. Now add 1 piece of asparagus, carrot and spring onion to\neach slice of beef. Roll up the beef to enclose the vegetables. Repeat to make\n10 rolls in total.\nHeat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium heat. Drizzle the beef\nrolls with the vegetable oil, then chargrill the rolls for 3 minutes on each\nside. Garnish with the sesame seeds and serve with a small bowl of soy\nsauce and sliced chilli for dipping.\n\nGreen mango and pomelo salad with soft\nshell crab\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nGreen mangoes are fantastic in salads. They are a\nlittle sweet, a little sour and have such great texture.\nWhen choosing green mango, go for the smaller\nvariety, and make sure it is green and firm. If green\nmango is unavailable, try green papaya or green apple\ninstead.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 pomelo\n1 green mango, peeled and julienned (see note)\n1 handful perilla leaves, torn\n1 handful mint leaves, torn\n1 handful Vietnamese mint leaves, torn\n1 spring onion (scallion), thinly sliced\n1 tablespoon fried garlic\n2–3 tablespoons dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)\n1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) vegetable oil, for deep-frying\n4 soft shell crabs\n100 g (3½ oz) potato starch\n1 tablespoon chopped roasted peanuts\n2 tablespoons fried red Asian shallots", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "1 bird’s eye chilli, sliced\nMETHOD\nPeel the pomelo and then roughly segment it by simply tearing small pieces\nwith your hands, doing your best to remove the tough outer pith. Put the\npomelo in a mixing bowl with the green mango, herbs, spring onion and\nfried garlic. Dress with the dipping fish sauce and set aside.\nHeat the oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of\nbread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Pat the crabs dry with\nkitchen paper, then cut each crab in half and dust with the potato starch.\nWorking in small batches, deep-fry the crabs for 4 minutes, carefully turning\nthem over in the oil after 2 minutes, until crisp. Remove and place on\nkitchen paper to absorb the excess oil.\nArrange the salad on a platter. Place the crabs on top and garnish with the\npeanuts, fried shallots and chilli.\nNote To prepare the green mango, first peel and cut off the flesh in thin\nslices around the stone, then slice into fine julienne. Alternatively, you can\nuse a serrated vegetable shredder, known as a kom kom peeler (sold in Asian\nfood stores), to do this.\n\nQuail cooked in orange and coconut water\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nQuails are really enjoyable to eat; they are full of\nflavour, inexpensive and incredibly versatile. The\ntrick to a perfectly cooked quail is to always keep it\nmoist, so don’t forget to baste the quail during\ncooking time.\nINGREDIENTS\n6 quails\n40 g (1½ oz) butter\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) young coconut water (or chicken stock)\n125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) shaoxing rice wine\n2 tablespoons fish sauce\n4 tablespoons orange juice\n½ teaspoon grated orange zest\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\n2 tablespoons sugar\n6 pitted prunes\n1 tablespoon potato starch\n2 tablespoons Grand Marnier\nMETHOD\n\nPreheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). To butterfly the quails, place\nthem on a chopping board, breast side up. Using poultry scissors or a sharp\nknife, cut down along each side of the backbone. Discard the backbone. Put\nthe quail, skin side up, on the board and press firmly down on the ribcage,\npressing it out flat.\nCombine the butter, coconut water, rice wine, fish sauce, orange juice and\nzest, garlic and sugar in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Place the quails in\na single layer in a flameproof baking dish, add the prunes, then pour over\nthe orange and coconut water mixture. Bake for 45 minutes, occasionally\nbasting the quails with the liquid.\nRemove the baking dish from the oven and place on the stovetop over\nhigh heat. Transfer the quails to a serving platter. Sprinkle the potato starch\ninto the baking dish, stir constantly for 1 minute, then reduce the heat and\nsimmer for 2 minutes until the sauce is thickened. Add the Grand Marnier\nand stir to combine. Pour the sauce over the quails and serve.\n\nPumpkin flowers stuffed with prawns and dill\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED STARTER\nI learnt so much about edible flowers while in Dalat.\nChef Linh offers a fantastic ‘Flower Menu’ at the\nDalat Palace for guests who want to sample the\nregion’s edible flowers. Pumpkin flowers are enjoyed\nthroughout Vietnam, but I have never seen them\nserved anywhere else in the world, so if you can’t\nsource them use zucchini flowers instead.\nINGREDIENTS\n350 g (12 oz) raw prawns (shrimp), peeled, deveined and roughly chopped\n½ bunch dill, picked\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n1 garlic clove, finely chopped\npinch of salt and pepper\n12 pumpkin flowers, stems intact with stamens removed (or use zucchini\nflowers)\nvegetable oil, for deep-frying\n2 egg whites\n155 g (5 ½ oz/1 cup) potato starch\n6 violet flowers, to garnish (optional)\n1 lime, cut into wedges\nMETHOD", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Using a mortar and pestle, pound the prawns into a fine paste. Place into a\nmixing bowl and add half the dill, the fish sauce, garlic, salt and pepper.\nUsing your hands, mix everything together for 2 minutes, or until combined\nwell. Take a teaspoon of the paste and carefully stuff each pumpkin flower.\nFill a wok or deep-fryer one-third full of oil and heat to 180°C (350°F), or\nuntil a cube of bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Meanwhile,\nput the egg whites into a bowl and beat well. Put the potato starch into\nanother bowl. Carefully dip each filled pumpkin flower into the egg white to\ncoat. Drain off the excess, then dust each flower with the potato starch until\ndry. Shake off the excess starch, then deep-fry the flowers in three batches\nfor 3–4 minutes, or until crisp, being careful that they don’t brown too much.\nRemove and place on kitchen paper to drain.\nPlace the pumpkin flowers on a platter and garnish with the remaining dill\nand the violets, if using. Serve with lime wedges to squeeze over.\n\nWines of the Central Highlands\nI’M ON MY MOTORBIKE, JUST MOMENTS OUT of town, when it\nbegins to storm in thick, heavy drops of rain that hurt when they hit my skin.\nThe dirt road quickly turns to mud, so I hurry to find some shelter. I pull into\na place that has a distinct German–French feel to it — something you might\nsee in Alsace — and, to my surprise, it’s a winery. I can’t believe it: a wine\nproducer in Vietnam!\nKeen to sample some wine, I search for a cellar door but there isn’t one. I\nopen one of the heavy wooden doors and call out ‘Xin chao’, but the place is\ndark and empty. Suddenly an elderly man appears from behind me, giving\nme a fright.\n‘Who are you looking for?’ he asks in a strong Dalat accent.\n‘I’m interested in trying some Vietnamese wines,’ I explain.\nHe removes his wet coat and sandals, wipes some of the red mud off his\nfeet, then turns on some lights and invites me in. We take a seat on a high\nbench and he asks me where I’m from.\nWhen I tell him I’m from Australia, he says, ‘Now, as you try these wines,\ndon’t think of your big Australian reds.’ He opens a few bottles and\ncontinues. ‘Vietnamese palates are not that advanced yet. Like most other\nAsian countries, wine is not the first commodity that comes to mind when\nthinking about Vietnam. Vietnamese usually drink spirits that are high in\nalcohol, and are produced from distilling fermenting rice, corn or cassava.\nThe spirit is poured into tiny glasses and shot down quickly.\n‘Twenty years ago, there was no wine in Vietnam at all. It was only\nrecently, when the French began to return to Dalat that they realised its cool\nclimate and good red soil made it the perfect place for growing grapes. The\nFrench worked together with the Vietnamese and trained them how to\nproduce wine. First they started with strawberry wine made from the\nstrawberries grown here in Dalat. And from there, we started to produce\nwine from grapes.\n\n‘Our wine maker spent years in France learning the necessary skills, and\nnow he has returned to Dalat to produce wines like those from Bordeaux.\nBut Vietnamese palates are accustomed to cruder alcohols like rice whiskey,\nRussian vodka, and home-made liquors that are used for digestive and\nmedicinal purposes, so appreciating fine wines is an evolutionary process.’\nI sample some of the wines and while I have to admit that they are not\nfantastic, I can fully appreciate the drive and determination that Vang Wines\nhas in educating and ‘acclimatising’ the palates of Vietnamese people.\nAs I have observed Vietnamese cuisine evolve over the years, I have also\nseen the development and fast-growing passion for wine in Vietnam. But, for\nnow, I will continue to indulge in the fine French imports also on offer.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Rabbit in red wine\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nThis dish originated in the late 1800s and was\ntraditionally cooked with red wine. Today some\nVietnamese families prefer to cook the rabbit in rice\nwine. Start this dish a day ahead, to allow enough\ntime for marinating the rabbit.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 whole farmed rabbit (1.5 kg/3 lb 5 oz)\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n20 g (¾ oz) butter\n6 garlic cloves, chopped\n8 thyme sprigs\n2 star anise\n4 cloves\n100 g (3½ oz) smoked bacon, cut into\n1 cm (½ inch) dice\n100 g (3½ oz) chicken and pork liver pâté\n4 carrots, peeled and sliced into 2 cm (¾ inch) thick pieces\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMARINADE\n750 ml (26 fl oz) pinot noir\n\n1 brown onion, chopped\n2 fresh or dried bay leaves\n2 sage sprigs\n2 thyme sprigs\n2 rosemary sprigs\n4 tablespoons light soy sauce\n1 tablespoon sugar\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n6 garlic cloves, chopped\nMETHOD\nTo prepare the rabbit, first discard the head and then chop the rabbit into 7\npieces. To do this, cut the legs off the rabbit, then cut each leg in half. Cut\nthe body into 3 pieces widthways. Reserve the rabbit liver and dice it.\nCombine all the marinade ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Add the\nrabbit pieces and turn to coat in the marinade, then cover and place in the\nfridge to marinate overnight. Drain the rabbit well, reserving the marinade.\nPlace a large saucepan over medium heat, then add the oil and butter.\nWhen the butter starts to foam, add the garlic and thyme and cook until\nfragrant. Add the star anise, cloves and bacon and cook for about 4 minutes,\nor until the bacon browns. Increase the heat to high, then add the rabbit in\nbatches, sealing all sides. Add the chicken and pork liver pâté and rabbit\nliver and stir for 2 minutes.\nPour in the reserved marinade, making sure all the ingredients are\nsubmerged. If not, add more red wine (or use stock or water if you like).\nBring to the boil, skimming off any impurities, then reduce the heat to a low\nsimmer. Cover and cook for 1 hour.\nCook the carrots in boiling water for 10 minutes, or until tender, then\ndrain and set aside.\nRemove the rabbit from the saucepan and set aside. Strain all the liquid\nleft in the pan into another saucepan, discarding the solids. Place the pan\nover medium heat and bring the liquid to the boil, then continue to boil for\n\n10 minutes, or until the sauce is reduced by one-third. While the sauce is\nreducing, return the rabbit and carrots to the pan for 2 minutes, turning the\nrabbit to coat in the sauce. Transfer to a serving platter and pour the sauce\nover the top. Serve with baguettes.\nChicken and pork liver pâté\nINGREDIENTS\n200 g (7 oz) pork livers\n200 g (7 oz) chicken livers\n100 g (3½ oz) butter, softened\n100 g (3½ oz) minced (ground) pork\n2 red Asian shallots, finely chopped\n2 garlic cloves, finely chopped\n2 tablespoons brandy or Cognac\n4 tablespoons pouring (whipping) cream\n1 teaspoon sugar\n2 teaspoons salt\n½ teaspoon ground white pepper\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMETHOD\nClean the livers of fat and sinew. Cut the pork livers to match the size of the\nchicken livers. Wash under cold water, dry well with kitchen paper and set\naside.\nPut 2 teaspoons of the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat.\nWhen the butter starts to bubble, add half the livers and fry for 1–2 minutes\nuntil browned, then turn them over and brown the other side for 1–2\nminutes, making sure the livers remain pink in the middle. Remove to a\nplate, then repeat the process with a little more butter and the remaining\nlivers.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Add 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan and gently cook the pork mince for\nabout 2 minutes, or until cooked through but not browned. Remove and set\naside. Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper, then add 2 teaspoons of butter\nand gently fry the shallots and garlic for 5 minutes, or until very soft and\nslightly caramelised. Increase the heat, then return the livers and pork to the\npan, pour over the brandy or Cognac and ignite the alcohol. Once the flame\nsubsides, pour the liver mixture into a food processor and process until\nsmooth. With the motor running, add the remaining butter and the cream.\nSeason the pàté with the sugar, salt and white pepper; taste and adjust the\nseasoning if necessary. Pour into a container and refrigerate for about 2\nhours, or until set. Before serving, remove from the fridge and let stand at\nroom temperature for 30 minutes. Serve with baguettes.\n\nBeef tongue slow-braised in red wine\nSERVES 6–8 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nBeef tongue can be hard to find, so be sure to order it\nahead of time from your local Asian butcher.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 beef tongue (800 g/1 lb 12 oz)\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) pinot noir\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\ngenerous pinch of salt and ground black pepper\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n8 red Asian shallots, peeled and halved\n1 tablespoon soy sauce\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n1 tablespoon tomato paste (concentrated purée)\n2 tablespoons sugar\n4 carrots, peeled and sliced\n350 ml (12 fl oz) young coconut water\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMETHOD\nPlace the tongue in a large saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil.\nReduce the heat to a simmer, then skim off any impurities from the surface.\nSimmer for 50 minutes, or until tender (cooking time is about 1 hour per\nkilogram). Remove the tongue from the water. Cool slightly, then remove\nthe outer skin using a sharp knife. Remove the bone from the back by\n\nsimply pulling on it. Check for any small bones and gristle; remove and\ndiscard. Cut the tongue into 2 cm (¾ inch) dice.\nCombine the red wine, garlic, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. Add the\ntongue and toss to coat in the marinade, then cover and set aside to marinate\nfor 20 minutes. Strain, reserving the marinade.\nHeat a large saucepan over medium heat. When the pan is hot, add the oil\nand then the tongue and stir-fry for 3 minutes, or until browned. Add the\nshallots, soy sauce, fish sauce, tomato paste and sugar. Stir, then add the\ncarrots and reserved marinade.\nAdd the coconut water to the pan and bring to the boil. Skim off all\nimpurities, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 1½–2 hours, or\nuntil tender. Serve with baguettes.\n\nCoq au vin\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nSeeing this classic French dish served in restaurants\nin Dalat is no surprise because red wine is produced\nlocally, and thyme and bay leaves are also grown\nthroughout this wonderful fertile region.\nINGREDIENTS\n2 bay leaves\n2 thyme sprigs\n400 ml (14 fl oz) red wine\n2 tablespoons fish sauce\n1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) chicken drumsticks\n20 dried shiitake mushrooms\n80 g (2¾ oz) butter\n6 red Asian shallots, peeled and left whole\n1 tablespoon vegetable oil\n1 tablespoon plain (all-purpose) flour\n500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) young coconut water\n2 teaspoons tomato paste (concentrated purée)\n3 tablespoons chopped coriander (cilantro) leaves\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMETHOD", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Combine the bay leaves, thyme, red wine and half the fish sauce in a large\nmixing bowl. Add the chicken and toss to coat in the marinade, then cover\nand place in the fridge to marinate for 2 hours, or overnight for a better\nflavour.\nPut the dried mushrooms in a bowl, cover with water and soak for 20\nminutes, then drain.\nHeat a frying pan over medium heat, then add half of the butter. When the\nbutter begins to bubble, add the shallots and mushrooms and sauté for 5\nminutes, or until the shallots are browned. Remove and set aside.\nDrain the chicken and pat dry, reserving the marinade. Add the oil and the\nremaining butter to a large frying pan and seal the chicken on all sides until\nnice and golden. Sprinkle over the flour and stir to coat all the chicken, then\nadd the reserved marinade, shallots, mushrooms, coconut water, tomato\npaste and remaining fish sauce. Bring to the boil, then skim off any\nimpurities that rise to the surface. Reduce the heat to a low simmer and\ncook for 1 hour, or until the chicken drumsticks are tender. Garnish with the\ncoriander and serve with baguettes.\n\nMiss Huong in her Golden Garden\nI MAKE MY WAY DOWN A NARROW WINDING path to the Golden\nGarden. Twenty or so ladies, all dressed in black and wearing conical hats,\nsquat as they tend to their crops. Each woman carries a cane basket on her\nhip as she makes her way down lush green fields. The women work quickly\nand efficiently, plucking green vegetables out of the ground and then\nbundling them into bunches ready for the market. The scene before me\nmakes me smile — they are able to walk while still in a squatting position,\nsomething that makes them look like human crabs scurrying across the\nfields.\nHuong, the head grower, has worked in the garden for over ten years. She\ntakes me on a tour and I ask her if she could point out which herbs and\nvegetables were introduced to Vietnam by the French.\n‘You will be surprised how many varieties were introduced to Vietnam,’\nshe tells me. ‘Apart from the traditional seeds brought over to Dalat by\nFrench growers a hundred years ago, modern seeds from Europe and Japan\nhave also been introduced. The French brought over seeds for cabbage,\ntomato, carrot, beetroot, broccoli, cauliflower, capsicum, choko, potato,\nasparagus, leek, kohlrabi, pumpkin, artichoke, zucchini and celery.’\nIn the greenhouse, Huong shows me an array of high-grade organic herbs\nsuch as thyme, rosemary, dill, chocolate mint, sage, basil and rocket, also\nintroduced by the Europeans. She tells me that most of these herbs are\nsupplied exclusively to hotels and fine dining restaurants all over Vietnam.\nAs we walk back to my motorbike, I notice a few of her fellow workers\ncooking on an open flame under the shade of the greenhouse, so I veer\ntowards them to take a closer look. An aluminium pot simmers pork ribs\nwith artichokes; a woman tosses slices of heart of palm with cherry\ntomatoes, perilla and citrus dressing; another peels runny quail eggs and\nserves them on top of a bundle of steaming asparagus spears.\n\nThese dishes are all very traditional Vietnamese dishes that I ate as a kid,\nbut I didn’t realise until this moment that all these authentic Vietnamese\ndishes use vegetables that aren’t indigenous to Vietnam, but were actually\nintroduced by the French. I’m beginning to get a real insight into just how\nmuch impact the French did have on what we eat, and the culinary legacy\nthey left behind.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Heart of palm and tomato salad with\nVietnamese herbs\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nHeart of palm, or palm heart, is a versatile ingredient\nthat I’ve been using quite a lot lately as I love its light,\nalmost sweet flavour and crunchy texture. Heart of\npalm can be served raw in salads, stir-fried or\nsteamed.\nINGREDIENTS\n500 g (1 lb 2 oz) fresh heart of palm (or use tinned)\n6 cherry tomatoes, sliced lengthways into quarters\n½ red onion, thinly sliced\n5 perilla leaves, thinly sliced\n5 Vietnamese mint leaves, thinly sliced\n1 tablespoon fried garlic\nMANDARIN DRESSING\n2 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar\n100 ml (3½ fl oz) mandarin juice\n2 tablespoons white vinegar\n2 tablespoons fish sauce\n1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil\n1 garlic clove, chopped\n\n1 bird’s eye chilli, thinly sliced\nMETHOD\nTo make the mandarin dressing, put the sugar in a bowl with the mandarin\njuice and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the vinegar, fish sauce, olive oil,\ngarlic and chilli and stir well.\nTo prepare the fresh palm hearts, rinse them in cold water and remove any\nfibrous, tough material surrounding the heart. Place the palm hearts in a\nbowl of cold water and soak for 1 hour, then drain and slice into thin 10 x 1\ncm (4 x ½ inch) strips.\nCombine the palm heart strips, tomatoes, onion, perilla, Vietnamese mint\nand 4 tablespoons of the mandarin dressing in a mixing bowl. Transfer to a\nserving platter and garnish with the fried garlic.\nNote Leftover mandarin dressing can be stored in a jar in the refrigerator for\nup to 2 days and used to dress a green salad.\n\nDalat artichoke and pork rib soup\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nClear soups are served in Vietnamese cuisine to\nbalance out the bolder flavours of accompanying\ndishes. This soup is light and clean, and it’s also a\ngreat ‘cooling’ dish for your body.\nINGREDIENTS\njuice of 1 lemon\n2 globe artichokes (600 g/1 lb 5 oz in total), with stalks intact\n400 g (14 oz) pork ribs, chopped into 2 cm (¾ inch) pieces\n2 tablespoons fish sauce\n2 teaspoons sugar\n1 teaspoon salt\npinch of cracked black pepper\nsteamed jasmine rice, to serve\nMETHOD\nFill a large bowl with cold water and add the lemon juice. Cut off the\nartichoke stalks, peel off the tough skin, then slice the stalks into 4 cm (1½\ninch) lengths. Cut the artichokes into quarters, removing the tough outer\nleaves. As you prepare each artichoke, immediately submerge it in the\nacidulated water to prevent it from going black.\nFill a large stockpot with 2.5 litres (87 fl oz/10 cups) of water. Add the\npork rib pieces, drained artichokes, fish sauce, sugar, salt and pepper. Bring\n\nto the boil, then skim off any impurities for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to\na low simmer, then cover with a lid and simmer for 45 minutes, or until the\nartichokes and pork ribs are tender. Skim off any remaining impurities, then\ndivide the soup among serving bowls. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.\n\nWok-tossed cabbage with garlic\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF SHARED MEAL\nCabbages of all shapes, sizes and colours are grown\nin the lush fertile hills of Dalat. The locals use this\nversatile vegetable in everything — from noodle\nsoups and stir-fries to rice paper rolls and salads.\nINGREDIENTS\n500 g (1 lb 2 oz) cabbage, cut into bite-sized pieces\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n2 red Asian shallots, chopped\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n1 teaspoon sugar\npinch of ground black pepper\n4 cherry tomatoes, halved\n3 garlic chives, cut into 4 cm (1½ inch) lengths\n1 spring onion (scallion), cut into 4 cm (1½ inch) lengths\nsteamed jasmine rice, to serve\nMETHOD\nBlanch the cabbage in boiling water for 2 minutes, drain, then submerge in\na bowl of iced water. Drain well again.\nHeat a wok over medium heat, then add the oil and sauté the shallots and\ngarlic for 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the cabbage and toss for 2", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "minutes, charring the sides. Add the fish sauce, sugar and pepper and wok-\ntoss for a further 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, garlic chives and spring\nonion and wok-toss for another 2 minutes. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.\n\nA farmers’ market and more\nIT’S 5 AM AND MY HANDS ARE TURNING NUMB AS I walk\nthrough the mist on my way to the market. Farmers in trucks lower their\ntrays and fresh produce tumbles out onto the street outside the market.\nVendors shout and scream at the growers as they haggle for the best possible\nprice. It seems as though they are arguing, but this is their style of business.\nBig rusted scales struggle to weigh mounds of passionfruit, avocado,\nartichokes, cabbage, kohlrabi, chokos and pumpkins. Food vendors want\npart of the action, so they too come out to play, selling warm sticky rice with\nred beans, thick pork congee and steaming bowls of noodle soup. But it’s not\nonly fruit and vegetables available here; freshly slaughtered buffalo, pig and\ngoat are also on offer alongside growers selling buckets upon buckets of\nroses, orchids, sunflowers and blossoms, which illuminate the grey morning\nin magnificent colour. Strawberries are artfully arranged and become part of\nthe visual feast. I’m surprised to see strawberries grown in Vietnam, so I\nstop to sample one. I’m doubtful of its quality as the colour is not as red as\nthe ones at home, and the shape is long and not as spherical. But so little do I\nknow — these are the best strawberries I have ever tasted: perfectly ripe,\nfirm but juicy, with punches of sweetness and just the right amount of zing.\n\nI ask the grower if he can tell me more about the strawberries and how\nthey arrived in Dalat. He gently scoops some into the palms of his hands and\nsmells them. ‘Dalat is known as the city of eternal spring, a strawberry’s\nfavourite season,’ he explains. ‘This is how we can grow the best\n\nstrawberries in the world! There are many varieties, in all different shapes\nand sizes, but the one we grow here is the long wedge variety. Our\nstrawberries not only taste good, but also alleviate symptoms of kidney\nstones, inflammation, throat infections and fever, and are high in fibre,\nvitamin C and, wait for it, they are a proven aphrodisiac!’ He gives me a\ncheeky wink as he looks in the direction of the female growers next to us.\n‘I believe the French introduced them to Dalat in the early 1900s,’ he tells\nme. ‘Not only did they love eating them, but the noble French women were\nalso known to bathe regularly in strawberry juice to make their skin glow.’\nThe French were so indulgent and extravagant! Who in their right mind\nwould waste such a wonderful fruit in a bath. I can’t help but think about all\nthose strawberry desserts that could have been…\nFruit baths momentarily forgotten, my attention is instead taken by a spiral\nstaircase that leads to a second floor — the perfect spot to get a bird’s eye\nview of the market.\nIt’s not only the riot of colours that make it so\nstunning, but the way in which each stallholder\nhas intricately stacked and displayed their wares\nthat makes it a sight to behold.\nThere are many astonishingly beautiful landscapes throughout this country\nbut, from the top, as I lean over and marvel at the rainbow of colour below\n— limes, mandarins, green chillies, red capsicums, white rice, red shallots,\ncarrots, coriander and bitter melon — I think what a beautiful painting it\nwould make. It’s not only the riot of stunning colours but the way in which\neach stallholder has intricately stacked and displayed their wares that makes\nit a sight to behold.\nThe second floor is where you come to eat, with more than twenty food\nstalls offering dishes from all over Vietnam. I’m glad I’m here early, because\nI’m in time to see them prepare the food and cook for the day ahead. The\ncooks place money in a bucket, which is tied to a long rope. They lower the", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "bucket to the stalls below and shout out their order of herbs and vegetables.\nMoney is taken and orders are placed in the bucket; the cooks pull up the\nrope, collect their goods and off they go — chopping, slicing, dicing, pulling\nfragrant herbs off their stalks. It is the most entertaining, exciting and\ntheatrical way of shopping and cooking that I’ve ever seen.\nWoks fire up and I breathe in deeply the aromas of sautéed garlic, chilli\nand lemongrass. There’s movement and colour all around and I am enjoying\nevery moment. A clatter of plates and bowls and service begins — chicken\nroti; pork cutlets and broad beans; catfish cooked in caramel sauce; warm\nbeef and watercress salad; and caramelised pork belly with quail eggs.\nAs the morning mist begins to lift, making way for a crisp, sunny morning,\nlocals begin to arrive for their daily purchases. From above I watch how\npedantic the Vietnamese people are in choosing their produce as they look\nfor the perfect chilli and the freshest bean. Today they only buy in small\nquantities; tomorrow is a new day and they will return to the market to do it\nall over again.\n\nWarm beef and watercress salad\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nVietnamese salads were known as ‘goi’ before the\nFrench arrived and introduced ‘xa lat’, which were\nsalads with a vinaigrette dressing.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 bunch watercress, picked\n1 small onion, thinly sliced\n1 tomato, thinly sliced\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n3 garlic cloves, finely chopped\n300 g (10½ oz) beef sirloin, trimmed and thinly sliced\npinch of salt\n½ teaspoon cracked black pepper\n2 tablespoons dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)\n1 bird’s eye chilli, sliced\nVINAIGRETTE DRESSING\n2½ tablespoons white vinegar\n1 tablespoon garlic oil\n2 teaspoons sugar\nMETHOD\nTo make the vinaigrette dressing, place all the dressing ingredients in a bowl\nand stir well to dissolve the sugar. Put the watercress, onion and tomato in a\n\nmixing bowl, and dress the salad with the vinaigrette. Set aside.\nHeat a wok over medium heat, then add the oil and cook the garlic until\nfragrant. Increase the heat to high, then add the beef in two batches and stir-\nfry for 1–2 minutes until browned. Season with the salt and pepper.\nAdd the beef to the salad bowl, then dress with the dipping fish sauce. Mix\nwell, then transfer to a serving plate and garnish with the chilli.\n\nAsparagus wok-tossed with Asian\nmushrooms\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n3 garlic cloves, finely chopped\n200 g (7 oz) asparagus, trimmed and sliced into 4 cm (1½ inch) lengths\n70 g (2½ oz) oyster mushrooms\n70 g (2½ oz) black fungus\n70 g (2½ oz) enoki mushrooms, trimmed and separated\n70 g (2½ oz) shiitake mushrooms\n1½ tablespoons fish sauce\n2 teaspoons oyster sauce\n½ teaspoon sugar\npinch of salt and ground black pepper\n1 bird’s eye chilli, sliced\n¼ teaspoon toasted sesame seeds\nsteamed jasmine rice, to serve\nMETHOD\nHeat a wok over medium heat. Add the oil and fry the garlic for1 minute\nuntil fragrant, then add the asparagus and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add all the\nmushrooms and stir-fry for 1 minute, then add the fish sauce, oyster sauce,\nsugar and 1 tablespoon of water. Toss for a further minute, or until the\nmushrooms are tender, then season with the salt and pepper.\n\nTransfer to a serving bowl and garnish with the chilli and sesame seeds.\nServe with steamed jasmine rice.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Caramelised pork belly with quail eggs\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nTraditionally this dish is cooked with chicken eggs,\nbut the cooks at the Dalat markets serve it with quail\neggs, so I gave it a go and it was delicious. Use fresh\nyoung coconut water if you can source it, as the\ntinned variety has three per cent added sugar and will\nmake this dish far too sweet.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) boneless pork belly (see note)\n220 g (7¾ oz/1 cup) sugar\n1.5 litres (52 fl oz/6 cups) young coconut water\n125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) fish sauce\n5 spring onions (scallions), white part only, bashed\n1 teaspoon salt\n2 teaspoons ground white pepper\n12 quail eggs\n6 bird’s eye chillies, left whole\nsteamed jasmine rice, to serve\nMETHOD\nCut the pork belly into 4 x 2 cm (1½ x ¾ inch) pieces and set aside.\nTo make the caramel, put the sugar and 2 tablespoons of water in a large\nsaucepan and place over high heat. Cook for 5–6 minutes, stirring\n\noccasionally, or until the sugar becomes a rich golden colour, then carefully\nadd the pork pieces to the pan. Stir to coat the pork with the caramel.\nAdd the coconut water and slowly bring to the boil, skimming off the fat\nand impurities that rise to the surface. Reduce the heat to a simmer, then add\nthe fish sauce, spring onion, salt and white pepper. Cook for 1 hour, or until\nthe pork is tender.\nMeanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Reduce to a simmer,\nthen carefully submerge the quail eggs in the water and cook for 5 minutes.\n(You can use a spoon to lower the quail eggs into the simmering water.)\nRemove the quail eggs and peel them.\nAdd the peeled eggs and chilli to the pan with the pork and cook for a\nfurther 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and serve with steamed jasmine rice.\nNote If you find pork belly too fatty, replace half the quantity of belly with\npork neck.\n\nBaguettes and bahn mi\nHOPING TO GET A BEHIND-THE-SCENES glimpse of daily life in\nDalat, I leave the main road and head down the city’s narrow laneways and\nalleys. I walk past an open door and am hit by a blast of thick heat. I stop\nand watch as five men in white singlets, dripping in sweat, load freshly\nbaked baguettes from the oven into enormous woven bamboo baskets. They\ntie the baskets onto the back of a waiting motorbike, which then starts up\nand whisks away.\nI’ve stumbled across the biggest and busiest bakery in Dalat. Three women\nstand behind a wooden work bench, frantically making pork rolls for the\nlong queue that awaits. Golden-crusted baguettes, still warm from the oven,\nare quickly sliced then smeared generously with pâté and mayonnaise, filled\nwith pork terrine, pork belly, pickled vegetables, cucumber and coriander. A\nsprinkle of chilli, a dash of soy sauce and it’s done. Others wait for the many\nsweet cakes and pastries on offer — versions of French classics such as\nchocolate éclairs, custard tarts, mille-feuilles and buttery croissants — a\nsweet reminder of the cultural influences left by the French.\nI quickly join the line, my 10 000 dong note in my hand — unbelievably,\nthey cost less than one dollar. Queuing up to buy a baguette reminds me of\nwhen I was a young schoolboy. Each day would start at my parents’\nrestaurant in Cabramatta. Before school, I would help them set up the\nrestaurant, sweeping and mopping the floor and unpacking the tables and\nchairs. My parents would be in the kitchen prepping their sauces, stocks and\ningredients for the day ahead. They were way too busy to make my school\nlunch and instead would give me a one dollar coin and send me across the\nroad to the bakery to buy a freshly baked pork-filled baguette. At lunchtime,\nas I tucked into my gourmet pork roll, my classmates looked at me with\nenvy as they begrudgingly bit into their Vegemite or peanut butter\nsandwiches. But once in a while I would do them a deal; I would exchange\nlunches if they would do my homework. It was the perfect set-up, and I quite\nliked Vegemite sandwiches anyway…", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "I hand over my money and she passes me a pork roll, or bahn mi thit —\none of the most popular and internationally known Vietnamese dishes today;\nit’s the perfect marriage of French and Vietnamese ingredients and flavours.\nOver the years the Vietnamese have tweaked the traditional French\nbaguette and adapted it to suit the Vietnamese palate and style of cuisine.\nThe Vietnamese baguette is more fluffy and crispy than the French one; it’s\ndesigned to be a lighter bread so as not to overwhelm the fillings. Today,\nbaguettes are found on most street corners and restaurants in Vietnam. They\nare eaten in the morning with soft fried eggs and omelettes, eaten for lunch\nwith a variety of delectable fillings, and eaten in the evenings dipped into\ncurries or slow-braised dishes to soak and scoop up all the delicious sauce.\n\nVietnamese baguette\nMAKES 8\nBaguettes are one of the greatest things the French\nintroduced to Vietnam! They have become as much a\nstaple for the Vietnamese as they are for the French.\nINGREDIENTS\n160 g (5¾ oz/1 cup) rice flour\n675 g (1 lb 8 oz/4½ cups) unbleached plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for\ndusting\n2 teaspoons baking powder\n500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) lukewarm water\n1 tablespoon active dried yeast\n1½ teaspoons sugar\n1½ teaspoons salt\nwater spray\nMETHOD\nCombine the rice flour, 150 g (5½ oz/1 cup) of the plain flour and the baking\npowder in a bowl and set aside.\nPour the water into the bowl of an electric mixer with a dough hook\nattachment. Sprinkle the yeast over the water, then set aside for 7 minutes or\nso until the yeast starts to foam. Add the sugar and rice flour mixture and\nstir. Add the salt and remaining flour and, using the dough hook, knead on\nlow speed for 4 minutes. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and\nknead for another minute. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover with\n\nplastic wrap and allow it to rise for about 1½ hours, or until doubled in\nvolume.\nFlour your work surface and hands with about 1 tablespoon of flour. Turn\nthe dough out onto the work surface and divide it in half, then cut each half\ninto four equal pieces. Roll each portion into a large ball, then squash it\ngently with the palm of your hand, moulding it into an oval shape. Cover\nwith a damp tea towel and set aside for 10 minutes.\nUsing a rolling pin, roll out one portion to a pointy oval, about 20 cm (8\ninches) long and 15 cm (6 inches) at its widest point. Using floured hands,\nroll the top down into the middle, then roll the bottom up so they meet in the\nmiddle. Now roll to form a cylinder shape, stretching the dough slightly as\nyou go. Repeat with the rest of the dough. Place the baguettes on two baking\ntrays. Cover and leave to rise for another 30 minutes, or until doubled in\nsize. Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7).\nWith a sharp knife, make a shallow slash lengthways down the middle of\nthe baguettes. Bake the baguettes for 10 minutes, spraying them with a little\nwater after 5 minutes. Rotate the trays and bake for a further 10 minutes,\nspraying with water again after 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow\nto cool.\n\nBaguette with steamed pork balls\nMAKES 4\nINGREDIENTS\n4 Vietnamese baguettes, split\n2 Lebanese (short) cucumbers\n2 spring onions (scallions)\n200 g (7 oz) pickled carrot\n4 long coriander (cilantro) sprigs\n2 bird’s eye chillies, thinly sliced\nPORK BALLS\n150 g (5½ oz) raw tiger prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined\n300 g (10½ oz) minced (ground) pork\n100 g (3½ oz) water chestnuts, diced\n2 quail eggs\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\n2 red Asian shallots, chopped\n4 spring onions (scallions), chopped\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n1 tablespoon soy sauce\n2 teaspoons sugar\n1 teaspoon cracked black pepper\nSAUCE\n1 tablespoon vegetable oil\n3 garlic cloves, chopped", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "2 red Asian shallots, chopped\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) young coconut water\n2 teaspoons sugar\n2 teaspoons soy sauce\n2 teaspoons fish sauce\n1 teaspoon annatto oil\n1 teaspoon sesame oil\n1 tablespoon tomato paste (concentrated purée)\n1 tablespoon potato starch\nMETHOD\nTo make the pork balls, pound the prawns using a mortar and pestle into a\npaste. Put the prawn paste in a bowl with the remaining ingredients for the\npork balls and use your hands to combine well. Roll the mixture into 12 balls\nthe size of golf balls or use a spoon to scoop the mixture into balls.\nPlace each pork ball in a Chinese teacup or small rice bowl. Working in\nbatches, place the teacups in a metal or bamboo steamer and cover with the\nlid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and\nsteam for 15 minutes. Reserve the liquid that forms in the cup or bowl.\nTo make the sauce, place a large saucepan over medium heat. When the\npan is hot, add the oil, garlic and shallots and sauté for 2–3 minutes, or until\nfragrant. Add the coconut water, sugar, soy sauce, fish sauce, annatto oil,\nsesame oil and tomato paste. Season well with ground black pepper. Bring to\nthe boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Dissolve the potato starch in 1\ntablespoon of water, then slowly add to the sauce, stirring until it thickens.\nCarefully slide the steamed pork balls and their juice into the saucepan and\nsimmer for a further 5 minutes. Remove the pork balls from the pan,\nreserving the sauce.\nSplit the baguettes in half lengthways, but not all the way through. Cut the\ncucumbers into long batons. Trim the spring onions, then cut them in half\nlengthways into long batons. To fill each baguette, first add some pickled\ncarrot then a few pieces of cucumber to the inner side of the baguette, then\nadd 3 pork balls (cut them in half and squash them a little to fit in the\n\nbaguette), a spring onion half, a coriander sprig and some chilli. Drizzle over\n1 tablespoon of the sauce.\n\nMonsieur pierre, coffee and the honey\nbees\nI’M SITTING ON THE STEPS OF THE LOCAL cinema waiting to\nmeet Pierre Morère. Locals tell me that his grandparents once owned one of\nthe main coffee plantations in Dalat. As I wait, I count cafés — as you do\n— over fifteen and that’s only those I can spot from where I’m sitting. I find\nit fascinating that coffee has become such a huge part of our Vietnamese\nculture and everyday life, and it is in Dalat that the majority of Vietnam’s\ncoffee is grown. In fact, Vietnam is now the second-largest coffee exporter in\nthe world, trailing not too far behind Brazil.\nAn old cream-coloured Tarago van pulls up and a man with piercing blue\neyes leans out the window. ‘Are you Luke?’ he asks me, his Vietnamese\ntinged with a strong French accent. ‘Jump in!’\nTwenty minutes out of town, we come to a large parkland area.\n‘This is all national park; it is my backyard,’ Pierre tells me proudly as we\npull into the driveway of his home. Pierre has built a commercial kitchen in\nhis home — his ‘laboratory’ — where he makes his own butter biscuits that\nhe sells commercially. He brews some tea to have with the biscuits, and he\ntells me his story…\n‘My grandparents were one of the first to introduce Arabica coffee to\nVietnam. They arrived in Dalat in 1919, from France. They found some\nfertile land in the hills, hired twenty locals from ethnic minority villages and\ntogether they grew an empire, producing some of the best coffee beans in\nVietnam. By 1924 they had also established a rubber plantation, which\nproduced rubber for Michelin Tyres, and they also harvested delicious wild\nhoney, reared buffaloes, pigs, cows and sheep.\n‘The business was passed down to my parents who had intended to pass it\nto me, but when France lost Vietnam as their colony, my whole family were\nforced to return to Europe. My family were devastated; Vietnam was their", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "home and four generations of our family have lived here. They loved\nVietnam and its people, and they treated their workers with great respect. We\neventually left in the late 1950s, but as I got older my hunger to return to my\ncountry of birth grew stronger. I missed the lifestyle, the weather, the people\nand, of course, the food. I returned to Dalat in 1999 to continue what my\ngrandparents started and what my parents had left behind. I searched for\nmonths, tracking down the land where my family had their plantations, and\nin doing so I was reunited with two of the people who used to work for my\ngrandparents. I couldn’t believe it!\n‘Like my grandparents, I also bought land, set up a company called\nJangada and have hired these same two people to grow and produce Arabica\ncoffee and harvest honey. This was my destiny. Now I employ dozens of\nlocal ethnic people from surrounding villages to grow the best coffee in\nDalat, to make French butter biscuits and produce A-grade honey.’\nAs I sip on the dark coffee, I can taste all the\ncare and work that went into it. Ca Bang is\nright. Even though I usually drink my coffee\nwith milk and sugar, I simply don’t need it. It is\ndelightfully aromatic, strong in taste and colour,\nand not at all bitter.\nI listen to Pierre, astounded. I am so impressed with his determination,\nvision, passion and love for Vietnam and its people. And I can’t believe that\nhe had found the same two people who once worked for his grandparents all\nthose years ago. He happily agrees to take me to meet them.\nWe load the van up with boxes of butter biscuits and head north to the\nlocal ethnic village, half an hour away, situated in the rolling hills of\nrainforest and jungle, home to the Chel tribe. Dozens of scantily clad\nchildren chase after the van as we drive down narrow dirt roads and through\nthe village, dotted with several wooden huts, each painted in pastel greens\nand blues, a tradition that hasn’t changed in centuries.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Pierre introduces me to an elderly couple, Ha Bang and Ca Bang, who\ngently take me by the arm and warmly invite me into their home. We walk\npast a copper kettle boiling on an open fire in the yard, and enter a dimly lit\nroom. Ha Bang sits next to me at the long dusty table and rests his hand on\nmine. His palms are rough from hard work, deep wrinkles across his\nforehead tell many stories, and his dark skin and distinct facial features —\nwhich to me look more American Indian than Vietnamese — are unlike any\nother minority group in Vietnam.\n‘This is the coffee we produce here,’ says Ca Bang as she pours me some\ncoffee. ‘We usually don’t drink it with milk or sugar because it is better\nblack, and is already naturally sweet.’\nHa Bang tells me that it was Pierre’s grandfather who taught them how to\ngrow and produce such good coffee. ‘We have not changed the method\nsince,’ he says. ‘We still do it the original way, all by hand.\nWe harvest only once a year; we pick a tonne of berries and scatter them\naround the village to dry in the sun for around ten to fifteen days. We pound\nthe dried berries in large stone mortars to remove the husks, then we double\nroast the berries in huge hot woks. There is no added butter, oil or fish\nsauce.’\nFish sauce? I had no idea the Vietnamese roasted their coffee with fish\nsauce!\nAs I sip on the dark coffee, I can taste all the care and work that went into\nit. Ca Bang is right. Even though I usually drink my coffee with milk and\nsugar, I simply don’t need it. It is delightfully aromatic, strong in taste and\ncolour, and not at all bitter.\nHa Bang senses my enjoyment of their coffee. ‘Wait until you try my\nhoney!’ he says proudly. ‘Come on, I’ll show you.’\nNot far from the back of the house Ha Bang shows me a wooden beehive,\nseveral more of which are dotted about his coffee plantation. Pierre puts on\nhis white lab coat and protective headgear and skilfully lifts out a tray of\ndensely packed hexagonal beeswax cells. He shows us the honeycomb and\nexplains that the bees produce the honey by collecting pollen from the coffee\nplants. Within seconds, bees are swarming all around us and I am freaking\n\nout. As I discovered during my last trip to Dalat, I have a strange allergy to\nbee stings.\n‘Relax,’ Pierre tells me, although as I run around, waving my hands above\nmy head, I’m finding this hard to achieve. ‘If you run the bees will chase\nyou and they won’t give up until they get you.’\nI thank him for his comforting words and stop on the spot, trying to control\nmy flailing arms.\nFinally Pierre collects some honey into a glass and hands it over to me. He\nreturns the honeycomb tray to the queen bee and her army gets back to work.\nI stick my finger in the glass for a little taste. The honey is amber in colour,\ndense but transparent, warm in the mouth and delicately sweet. It is\ndelicious.\nPierre packs a few boxes of honey and puts it in his van along with the\nbiscuits that he’ll take to Nha Trang. He explains that he has a little store\nthere, where he sells his products to local Vietnamese tourists from the larger\ncities.\n‘At the moment I sell butter biscuits, coffee and honey, just like my family\ndid sixty years ago. My mother and father also bred cows, buffaloes and\nsheep, so I also want to do this, to complete the family business. Next week I\nhave twenty sheep arriving, and I hope to double that in a year as I want to\nprovide lamb to Vietnam’s hotels and restaurants. I will then continue my\nplan to produce cow’s milk and buffalo cheese and continue to share the\nFrench culture and cuisine with the Vietnamese people. I am so happy to be\nhere. I am finally home.’\n\nPierre removes the honeycomb from the hives", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Green tea-smoked duck\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nIt’s really quite easy to smoke foods and it adds so\nmuch depth of flavour and wonderful aroma to a dish,\nwith very little effort. You can also use a hooded\nbarbecue to smoke your duck.\nINGREDIENTS\n½ teaspoon cracked black pepper\n1 tablespoon light soy sauce\n2 teaspoons fish sauce\n1 teaspoon sesame oil\n2 duck breasts, boneless, skin on\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n1 piece of cassia bark\n2 star anise\n40 g (1½ oz/½ cup) Vietnamese green tea\n100 g (3½ oz/½ cup) soft brown sugar\n100 g (3½ oz/½ cup) jasmine rice\n2 spring onions (scallions), thinly sliced on the diagonal\n1 handful coriander (cilantro) leaves\n2 long red chillies, julienned\n2 Vietnamese baguettes\nlight soy sauce and sliced red chilli, for dipping\nMETHOD\n\nCombine the pepper, soy sauce, fish sauce and sesame oil in a large mixing\nbowl, stirring to combine well. Add the duck, turn to coat in the marinade,\nthen cover and place in the fridge to marinate for 30 minutes.\nRemove the duck from the marinade and drain off any excess marinade.\nPlace a frying pan over medium heat, then add the oil and seal and brown the\nduck breasts, skin side down, for 3 minutes. Remove from the pan and set\naside.\nPlace a piece of foil in the base of a wok, then add the cassia bark, star\nanise, green tea, brown sugar and rice. Place a small wire rack in the wok, to\nsit over the aromatics, and cover the wok with a lid. Turn the heat to high\nand heat until the wok begins to smoke, then place the duck breasts on the\nrack, skin side up. Reduce the heat to medium, then cover the wok and\nsmoke the duck for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the duck to rest\nin the wok for 5 minutes.\nThinly slice the duck and place on serving plates. Garnish with the spring\nonion, coriander and chilli. Serve with the baguettes and a small bowl of soy\nsauce and sliced chilli for dipping.\n\nList of Recipes\nSnails cooked in lemongrass and chilli\nBeef and lemongrass skewers\nScallops chargrilled in spring onion oil\nPrawn, mango and snow pea salad\nPumpkin soup with aromatic cream\nChicken slow-braised in green pepper\nLobster tail wok-tossed with garlic and black pepper\nCrème caramel\nPan-fried salmon in orange sauce\nCrab farci\nCrisp rice flour crepe with lobster and enoki mushroom\nCitrus-cured wagyu sirloin\nBeef slow-braised in young coconut water\nTurmeric and lemongrass mulloway steamed in banana leaf\nPandan and ginger panna cotta\n\nMY FIRST VISIT TO SAIGON WAS OVER FOURTEEN years ago,\nand I was the first of my family to return to Vietnam in more than thirty\nyears. Aunty Nine, my mother’s sister, would be meeting me at the airport\n— but how would I recognise her?\nI had not met any of my Vietnamese family before, so my memory of that\nday is very clear. As soon as I stepped out of the airport doors I was hit by a\nwall of tropical heat. The heat in Saigon is really quite hard to get used to; it\nhangs on you like a thick, heavy coat. My shoulders drooped and my vision\nblurred from the thick haze of humidity, but I could just make out a group of\npeople waving in the distance, and as I got closer I could hear them calling\nout my name.\n‘Aunty Nine?’ I called out hopefully. The group responded and surged as\none towards me, hugging me, stroking my face and giving me Vietnamese\nkisses — little light sniffs against the cheek. Aunty Nine introduced herself\nto me, and then my twenty or so family members — uncles, aunties, cousins\nand grandparents. But just as soon as I had met them, they all quickly\ndispersed and went home.\n\nI hopped on the back of Aunty’s motorbike and we headed towards the\ncentre of Saigon.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Vietnam was everything I had imagined it to be: buffaloes ploughed the\nfields, farmers tended to their vibrant green rice paddies, bicycles and cyclos\ncongested tree-lined streets, rickshaws rode high, elegant women wearing\ntraditional ao dai and locals in conical hats dotted kerbsides, eating street\nfood.\nThat first day, I noticed that many of the buildings had a very European\nfeel to them. Aunty pointed out a hotel called the Majestic, built by the\nFrench in 1925. She told me that my parents used to go there on romantic\ndates when they were in their early twenties. I was amazed at what I saw —\nsuch huge decadent French buildings situated in the middle of a Vietnamese\ncity. I asked Aunty a million questions, eager to learn more about Saigon’s\npast. As we rode through District 1, Aunty explained that during the French\noccupation Saigon was the capital of the French colony of Cochin China,\nand from 1955 to 1975 it was the capital of the independent state of South\nVietnam. In 1976, Saigon was officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City, after\nMr Ho Chi Minh, but the central part of the city is, today, still known as\nSaigon.\nI was amazed at what I saw — such huge\ndecadent French buildings situated in the\nmiddle of a Vietnamese city. I asked Aunty a\nmillion questions, eager to learn more about\nSaigon’s past.\nWe continued on through the centre of town towards District 3. I wasn’t at\nall hungry, but the scent of chargrilled lemongrass enticed us to stop. It is\nalways a bit daunting when trying street food for the first time — the low,\nsmall plastic chairs, the lack of refrigeration and the preparation of food on\nthe kerbside — but for some reason, this experience was not unfamiliar to\nme. As I sat there among the smoke and flames, eating chargrilled pork\ncutlets and lemongrass-scented beef wrapped in betel leaves, I felt extremely\ncomfortable and at ease, like I had just returned home. I remember thinking\nthen how much I already loved Saigon and that I would return to Vietnam\n\nmany times. I was already fascinated by its history, and was particularly\nintrigued by the period of the French occupation and what influence that had\nhad on Vietnamese culture.\nNow, fourteen years later, I’m standing in the streets of Saigon again, and\nalthough it has changed dramatically and at an alarmingly rapid pace, I’m\nrelieved to find that those iconic buildings still stand and the city still feels\nlike home to me. Street food is slowly disappearing, markets have been\ntaken over by large department stores and roads that were once lined with\nbicycles and cyclos are now clogged with motorbikes and cars.\nI take a deep breath and bravely step off the kerb into the flow of traffic. I\nlove being in Saigon again and it doesn’t take me long to get my groove\nback.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Ben Thanh night markets, escargot\nand frogs’ legs\nI HAVE LEARNT TO LOVE THE NEW SAIGON, but on my first day\nin the city I always head to the Ben Thanh night market for a tried and true\nSaigon experience…\nIt is 4 pm and already Le Loi Street is gridlocked with motorbikes; the\ntraffic has come to a complete halt. I get off my motorbike taxi and decide\nto walk. A few blocks later and the traffic still isn’t moving, and I soon see\nwhy. More than a dozen street food vendors are wheeling their huge stalls\nfrom their homes to the Ben Thanh markets. These vendors set up their\nstalls every evening on the streets outside the markets, with some stalls\nseating up to forty people. Amazingly, they pack all their cooking\nequipment, tables, chairs, fresh ingredients and live seafood onto huge\ntrolleys and push them across town. I want to see how they construct these\nmobile outdoor restaurants, so I sit on the kerb, order a soda chanh, which\nis just like the popular French drink known as citron presse, made with\nsoda, lemon and sugar shaken with ice, and watch the theatre of the Ben\nThanh night market.\nIt takes less than an hour for them to set up. Metal frames are joined,\ntarpaulin tops are secured, gas bottles are connected, tables and chairs are\nset, menu boards are lit up — and they are open for business.\nFive o’clock rolls in fast, and before you know it the surrounding streets\nhave become the liveliest place in town. Young Saigonese and tourists alike\ncome out to eat and experience street food. Vendors park their carts in the\nmiddle of the street, selling goods such as multicoloured sticky rice,\ngelatinous Hue dumplings, boiled duck embryo egg, chargrilled prawn\nskewers and barbecue pork buns. Elderly ladies push their bikes around,\ntheir baskets brimming with jackfruit, mangosteens, durian, rambutans or\ncorn.\n\nI sit there for over an hour, absorbing the night’s energy. I chat to the\nfriendly street vendors and help the ladies sell their exotic fruits to passing\ntourists. This is what I adore about Saigon: its vibrancy, its chaos and its\nstreet life — which always seems to be surrounded by an abundance of\nfood. Food, food and more food, yet suddenly I realise I haven’t eaten\nanything! One of the ladies suggests that I go to the end of the street and try\nthe variety of snails on offer.\nThe stall is tiny. Only five chairs line up in front of a low wooden table,\ntopped with large pots of snails, in all shapes and sizes. There are snails\ncooked in coconut milk, snails cooked in a lemongrass and chilli broth, and\nsnails cooked with coriander and basil. I can’t make my mind up, so I\nsimply take a seat and smile as the snail vendor passes me a tray piled up\nwith an assortment of each. There’s a toothpick to scoop the snails out of\ntheir shells, a bowl of sweet fish sauce to dip them in, and a heavenly cold\nbeer to wash it down. The different textures are incredible; some snails are\nfirm, some tender, while others slip and slide across my plate, and the\ningredients used to complement each type of snail — pure genius!\nSnails and frogs’ legs — these two things are iconic in French cuisine.\nBut surely the Vietnamese, notorious for their ability to turn anything into a\nmeal, were cooking these long before the French arrived? Could I be so\nbold as to suggest that these recipes weren’t French? I sit there eating my\nsnails, debating whether the possible world-wide backlash from the French\nis worth it. I’m not sure, but either way I need someone else’s opinion on\nthis, so I call a chef whom I’d met on a recent trip in Central Vietnam.\n‘Meet me tomorrow at the Temple Club in District 1 for a drink,’ he says.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Snails cooked in lemongrass and chilli\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nIf you love snails, you really must visit Saigon’s Ben\nThanh markets, where you’ll find over ten varieties of\nsnails on offer. If preparing them yourself, make sure\nyou soak the snails in salted water for ten minutes\nbefore rinsing them under cold water. Repeat this\nprocess three times to ensure they are clean and slime-\nfree.\nINGREDIENTS\n300 g (10½ oz) fresh snails in their shells\n2 lemongrass stems, bruised and sliced into 4 cm (1½ inch) lengths\n6 lemon leaves, bruised\n4 cm (1½ inch) piece of ginger, pounded\n2 long red chillies, pounded\nDIPPING SAUCE\n2 tablespoons fish sauce\n2 tablespoons sugar\n1 tablespoon vinegar\n125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) water\n1 bird’s eye chilli, chopped\n1 teaspoon chopped garlic\n1 teaspoon chopped lemongrass, white part only\n\n2 lemon leaves, thinly sliced\nMETHOD\nRemove the snails from their shells, then wash both the snails and their\nshells in salted water, leaving them to soak for 10 minutes before rinsing\nunder cold water. Repeat this process three times. Set aside.\nTo make the dipping sauce, combine all the ingredients in a bowl, stirring\nwell to dissolve the sugar.\nPut 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) of water in a saucepan, then add the bruised\nlemongrass, lemon leaves, ginger and chilli. Bring to the boil, then add the\nsnails. Cover the pan and cook for 5 minutes, or until tender. Transfer the\nsnails into a serving bowl and serve with the dipping sauce. Supply\ntoothpicks to pick the snails out of their shells.\n\nBeef and lemongrass skewers\nMAKES 6\nI come across a street vendor at the night market\nsitting on a low plastic stool, chargrilling lemongrass\nskewers on an old blackened grill, which she tells me\nhas been passed down through three generations. Her\nlemongrass is so aromatic and also much smaller and\nyounger than what we get back home. When making\nthis dish, I suggest sourcing organic lemongrass.\nINGREDIENTS\n600 g (1 lb 5 oz) minced (ground) beef\n200 g (7 oz) minced (ground) pork\n3 garlic cloves, finely chopped\n1 tablespoon finely chopped lemongrass, white part only\n2 teaspoons sugar\n1 teaspoon ground black pepper\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n12 thin lemongrass stems, tough outer leaves removed, root end intact, green\ntops trimmed a little\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n6 Vietnamese baguettes, warmed\n3 teaspoons chilli sauce\n3 teaspoons hoisin sauce\n\nMETHOD\nCombine the beef and pork, garlic, chopped lemongrass, sugar, pepper and\nfish sauce in a mixing bowl. Knead for 5 minutes until all the ingredients\nhave combined well. Cover, then place in the fridge for 1 hour to allow the\nflavours to develop.\nWith wet hands, divide the mixture into 12 portions and roll each portion\ninto a sausage shape, about 10cm (4 inches) in length. With oiled hands,\nmould the beef sausages onto the end of each lemongrass skewer, pressing\nthe meat gently back into shape. Brush with a little oil.\nHeat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium heat and cook the beef\nskewers for 6 minutes, turning every few minutes, until cooked. Remove the\nmeat from the lemongrass skewers and distribute 2 serves per baguette.\nSpread ½ teaspoon of chilli sauce and hoisin sauce into each baguette.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Scallops chargrilled in spring onion oil\nSERVES 4–6 AS A SHARED STARTER\nSpring onion oil is essential to Vietnamese cuisine,\nbut you won’t find it at Asian markets because it is so\nsimple to make. The French do a very similar dish\nwith grilled mussels.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) scallops in the shell, cleaned\n125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) vegetable oil\n4 spring onions (scallions), green part only, thinly sliced\n3 tablespoons crushed roasted peanuts\nMETHOD\nHeat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium heat. Add the scallops and\ncook for about 5 minutes, or until they open.\nMeanwhile, put the oil and spring onions in a saucepan over medium heat.\nCook the spring onions until they just start to simmer in the oil, then remove\nthe pan from the heat and allow to cool.\nWhen the scallop shells open, remove and discard the upper shell, then\nreturn the half shell to the grill and cook for about 2 minutes, or until you see\nthe scallops’ natural juices begin to simmer. Now add 1 teaspoon of the\nspring onion oil and ½ teaspoon of roasted peanuts to each scallop. Cook for\na further 2 minutes, then transfer to a platter. Serve with a chilled beer.\n\nSaigon to Paris and back again\nI WALK DOWN A LONG HALLWAY DIMLY LIT WITH candles. The\nwalls are draped in red velvet and large smoking coils of incense hang from\nthe ceiling. A spiral staircase leads me to the entrance of the Temple Club.\nThe club is set in an old French colonial house that was built in the early\n1900s. It was converted to a Chinese temple after the French left Vietnam\nand is now a stylish restaurant and lounge, its colonial past still very evident\nin the antique and Indochine-style wooden furniture. Antique fans stand next\nto a working gramophone and a chaise longue where David Thai is waiting\nfor me.\nI love chatting with David, and we could both talk about food for days if\nwe had the chance. He talks at a million miles an hour — it’s often hard to\nkeep up — and he always has so much energy and enthusiasm for life. We\norder a drink and he tells me his story…\n‘I was born in Saigon in 1971, the middle child of three boys. When\nSaigon fell to the north, my parents felt that their life was lost. They wanted\nto take the whole family, including my uncle and grandmother, and flee by\nboat to Malaysia. They paid big money to get us on that boat, but on the\nnight of our escape things didn’t go as planned. My youngest brother, who\nwas only two years old at the time, wouldn’t stop crying. My parents, afraid\nthat his crying would alert the authorities, took him off the boat and stayed\nbehind. They told us to go first and said they would try to get away as soon\nas they could. They sacrificed their freedom for us.\n‘Our journey took two weeks, the boat was overloaded and in bad\ncondition, so we spent most of our time frantically bailing water out of the\nboat. We were hungry, sick and low on energy; many people thought the\nboat would sink, so they just sat there and prayed. But we kept hoping, we\nkept bucketing out the water, day after day, until we eventually arrived in\nMalaysia, where we stayed in a refugee camp.\n\n‘Six months later my uncle and grandmother were accepted to go to\nFrance, leaving my brother and me behind. News reached my parents that\nwe were in the refugee camp alone, so they sold all their belongings to raise\nenough money for another boat to Malaysia.\n‘At that time, many families were doing what my parents did. Some sold\ntheir homes and land for gold — gold that they would take with them to start\ntheir new life. Boat owners caught on to this and worked with pirates to\nintercept these boats, to kill and rob everyone of their gold. This is what\nhappened to my parents. A bomb was already planted on board. Once the\nboat was out far enough, the bomb went off, then the pirates came and\nrobbed everyone. I never saw my parents or little brother again. I was only\nfive when I lost my family.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "David Thai (pictured in centre with red overalls) with his mother and father, siblings and cousins\n‘My grandmother in France arranged the paperwork to get my brother and\nme over there, and a year later we were living in Paris with her. She was like\n\na mother to us, but could only care for us for a few years before she became\ntoo old to manage. My uncles were too poor and had families of their own to\nlook after, so I was put into a French orphanage.\n‘When I was old enough, I enrolled in an Orphan Apprentice Cooking\nProgram. I completed a seven-year course in commercial cookery and\nwalked away with a diploma in French cooking and patisserie. My first job\nas a chef was in Versailles, where I worked for two years, saving enough\nmoney to buy myself a scooter and a return ticket to Saigon. I hadn’t been\nback for twenty years. I went straight to my village and met up with my\nfamily there. It was a very emotional experience for me; I cried for two days.\nI learnt so much while working and cooking in\nSaigon. I used my French cooking techniques\nand experience and married it with Vietnamese\ningredients.\n‘I couldn’t believe how much I missed my home country; I wanted to\ncome back for good, but how? I was now a French citizen. A few days later I\nwalked past the Grand Hyatt in Saigon, now known as the Park Hyatt, and\nsuddenly I knew what I had to do. I returned to France and applied for a job\nat the Hyatt in Paris under Michelin Star chef Christophe David. He took me\nunder his wing and trained me to be the best chef that I could be. Three years\nlater I was accepted for a position at the Hyatt in Saigon.\n‘I learnt so much while working and cooking in Saigon. I used my French\ncooking techniques and experience and married it with Vietnamese\ningredients. I found that the balance of flavours of both cuisines worked\nhand in hand. Yes, we can talk about how much the French influenced\nVietnamese food, but the more I cook Vietnamese food, I realise that the\nFrench learnt just as much from the Vietnamese.\n‘A few years later I was transferred to the Hyatt in Jordan to open a\nFrench–Vietnamese restaurant called Indochine. I stayed there for five years,\nthen returned to Vietnam and worked all over the country, spreading the\n\nflavours of Vietnamese–French cuisine. Now it is not only travellers who\nappreciate this food, it is also the local Vietnamese, particularly in Saigon.’\nDavid is now one of Vietnam’s leading chefs, cooking his contemporary\nstyle of Vietnamese–French cuisine. He is currently Executive Chef for a\nboutique hotel group called Epikurean, opening hotels all over Vietnam that\noffer luxury accommodation and unique Vietnamese–French food. I ask\nDavid what he knows about the origins of frogs’ legs and snails.\n‘The French have enjoyed eating snails for thousands of years,’ he\nexplains. ‘So much so, I believe that when they colonised Vietnam, they also\nintroduced a French species of snail. The Vietnamese were known to eat a\nsmaller type of snail, more like a tiny clam found in rivers, but slowly they\nadapted to eating all types of snails — those found in rivers and rice paddies\n— cooked in a variety of sauces.\n‘It’s the same with frogs’ legs. Nowadays there are more ways of eating\nfrogs’ legs in Vietnam than in France. But did the French introduce them to\nVietnam? In truth I cannot say.’\nThe variety of snails on offer at the Ben Thanh night market.\n\nThe Temple Club, Saigon.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Prawn, mango and snow pea salad\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nTraditional Vietnamese mango salads call for green\nmangoes, but David’s French version uses semi-ripe\nmangoes, which are softer in texture and are on the\nsweeter side. Use the larger mango varieties for this\nrecipe, not the smaller ones that you would use green.\nINGREDIENTS\n120 g (4¼ oz) snow peas (mangetout)\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n¼ red onion, thinly sliced\n2 cm (¾ inch) piece of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced\n2 teaspoons sambal oelek\n450 g (1 lb) large raw prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined, tails intact\njuice of 2 limes\n2 x 300 g (10½ oz) semi-ripe mangoes, peeled and julienned\ncoriander (cilantro) sprigs, to garnish\nDRESSING\n2 teaspoons dijon mustard\n2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar\n1 tablespoon vegetable oil\nMETHOD\n\nBring a saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the snow peas for 1 minute.\nDrain and briefly refresh in cold water, then drain again. Slice the snow peas\nlengthways.\nTo make the dressing, whisk together the mustard, vinegar and oil in a\nbowl. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Toss the snow peas with the\ndressing in a large mixing bowl and set aside.\nHeat a wok over medium heat, then add the oil and cook the onion and\nginger for 3 minutes until caramelised. Add the sambal oelek and prawns\nand stir-fry for 2 minutes, or until the prawns are just cooked. Deglaze with\nthe lime juice. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.\nAdd the prawns to the snow peas in the bowl, then add the mango and toss\nwell to combine all the ingredients. Transfer to a serving platter and garnish\nwith the coriander sprigs.\n\nPumpkin soup with aromatic cream\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n40 g (1½ oz) butter\n½ onion, chopped\n1 leek, white part only, sliced\n10 g (¼ oz) ginger, peeled and chopped\n700 g (1 lb 9 oz) jap or kent pumpkin (winter squash), peeled, seeded and\ncut into 1 cm (½ inch) dice\npinch of sea salt and ground black pepper\nAsian basil leaves, to garnish\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nAROMATIC CREAM\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) pouring (whipping) cream\n10 Asian basil leaves, sliced\npinch of sea salt and ground black pepper\nMETHOD\nTo make the aromatic cream, whisk the cream until thickened, then add the\nbasil and season with the sea salt and pepper.\nHeat a large saucepan over medium heat, then add the butter. When the\nbutter starts to foam, add the onion, leek and ginger and sauté for 2 minutes,\nor until fragrant. Add the pumpkin and stir, then reduce the heat to low and\ncook for 10 minutes. Add enough water to just cover the pumpkin, then\nsimmer for 15–20 minutes, or until the pumpkin is soft.\n\nTransfer the pumpkin to a blender and blend until smooth. Return the\npumpkin to the saucepan and reheat, seasoning with the sea salt and pepper.\nPour the soup into bowls and top each serving with a few tablespoons of\naromatic cream. Garnish with the Asian basil and serve with baguettes.\n\nChicken slow-braised in green pepper\nSERVES 4 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n1 x 1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) chicken\n50 g (1¾ oz) fresh green peppercorns (or use peppercorns in brine, drained)\n6 garlic cloves, finely chopped\n2 teaspoons sugar\n3 teaspoons salt\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n2 tomatoes, chopped\n1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1 cm (½ inch) dice\n2 tablespoons annatto oil\n1.5 litres (52 fl oz/6 cups) young coconut water (see note)\n4 tablespoons fish sauce\n8 red Asian shallots, peeled and left whole\n½ onion, cut into wedges\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMETHOD\nRinse the chicken and drain. Remove any fat from the cavity opening and\naround the neck. Cut off and discard the parson’s nose. Using a cleaver, cut\nthe chicken down each side of the backbone, then discard the backbone.\nNow cut between both breasts and legs to form 4 pieces.\nUsing a mortar and pestle, lightly bruise half of the green peppercorns.\nTransfer to a large mixing bowl and add half of the garlic, 1 teaspoon of the\nsugar and 2 teaspoons of the salt. Stir to combine, then add the chicken.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Turn to coat the chicken pieces well in the marinade, then cover and place\nin the fridge to marinate for 1 hour.\nHeat a large saucepan or wok over high heat, then add the vegetable oil\nand fry the remaining garlic for 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Now add the\nchicken and seal on both sides until lightly browned. Add the tomato, carrot\nand annatto oil. Stir, then add the coconut water, fish sauce, shallots, onion\nand remaining sugar and salt. Bring to the boil, skimming off any impurities\nthat rise to the surface, then reduce the heat to medium–low and simmer for\n40 minutes, uncovered, or until the chicken is cooked. Transfer the chicken\nto a serving bowl. Garnish with the remaining peppercorns and serve with\ncrisp baguettes.\nNote Try to source fresh young coconut water if you can, as the tinned\nversion has added sugar, making this dish too sweet.\n\nLobster tail wok-tossed with garlic and black\npepper\nSERVES 4–6 AS A SHARED STARTER\nDavid Thai had some awesome live lobsters in his\nkitchen and we whipped up this dish in minutes.\nPlease never overcook your lobster; once they change\ncolour, they are pretty much done. This is a perfect\ndish to cook on a boat or on the beach.\nINGREDIENTS\n4 small raw lobster tails, shells intact (about 150 g/5½ oz each)\n2 teaspoons vegetable oil\n50 g (1¾ oz) butter\n4 garlic cloves, crushed\n4 spring onions (scallions), cut into 4 cm (1½ inch) lengths\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n2 tablespoons lemon juice\n2 teaspoons sugar\n¼ teaspoon salt\n1 teaspoon cracked black pepper\n1 long red chilli, thinly sliced\n1 lime, cut into wedges\nMETHOD\nCut the lobster tails in half lengthways using a chef’s knife.\n\nPlace a wok over medium heat, then add the oil, butter, garlic and spring\nonion and cook for about 2 minutes, or until fragrant but not brown. Add the\nlobster tails, then increase the heat to high and stir-fry for 4 minutes, or until\nthe lobster changes colour. Add the fish sauce, lemon juice, sugar, salt and\npepper and stir-fry for a further 2–4 minutes, or until cooked through.\nRemove to a serving platter, garnish with the chilli and serve with the lime\nwedges.\n\nCrème caramel\nSERVES 8\nCrème caramel is a French classic that the Vietnamese\nhave adopted and made their own, calling it banh flan.\nNow, a hundred years later, the cycle of change\ncontinues as David Thai, a French-trained Vietnamese\nchef, offers his version of this much-loved dessert.\nINGREDIENTS\n250 g (9 oz) caster (superfine) sugar\n300 ml (10½ fl oz) mandarin juice\n2 long strips of mandarin peel (about 15 cm/6 inches), white pith removed\n300 ml (10½ fl oz) pouring (whipping) cream\n50 ml (1¾ fl oz) brandy\n50 ml (1¾ fl oz) Cointreau\n2 eggs\n4 egg yolks\nMETHOD\nTo make the caramel, put 100 g (3½ oz) of the sugar in a saucepan. Add 3\ntablespoons of the mandarin juice and bring to a simmer over medium heat\nuntil the liquid thickens and becomes a nice caramel colour, then add another\n2 tablespoons of mandarin juice to stop the caramelising process. Stir, then\npour the caramel into eight 125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) ramekins or moulds.\nPut 50 g (1¾ oz) of the sugar and 100 ml (3½ fl oz) of water in a saucepan\nand bring to the boil. Add the strips of mandarin peel and simmer for 5", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "minutes, then pour in the cream. Bring to boiling point, then take the pan off\nthe heat. Set aside for 20 minutes for the flavours to infuse, then remove and\ndiscard the mandarin peel.\nPreheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2). In a clean saucepan, combine\nthe remaining mandarin juice, the brandy and Cointreau. Bring to the boil\nand cook until the mixture is reduced by one-third.\nIn a mixing bowl, combine the remaining 100 g (3½ oz) of sugar, the eggs\nand egg yolks, then whisk until the sugar dissolves. Add the egg mixture to\nthe cream mixture and stir. Now add this mixture to the reduced mandarin\njuice and stir, then pour into the ramekins.\nPlace the ramekins into a deep baking tin. Pour enough hot water into the\ntin to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cook in the oven for 55–\n60 minutes, or until the mixture is firm with a slight wobble. Remove from\nthe oven and allow to cool. To serve, gently run a knife around the edge of\neach ramekin to loosen the custard, turn it upside down and allow the\ncaramel to fall out onto a serving plate.\n\nMrs Tuoc and her French heritage\nI’M AT A FANCY HOTEL IN CENTRAL SAIGON where over thirty\nwine makers and distributors from Australia are displaying their wines.\nLocal Vietnamese move from stall to stall, sniffing, swirling, sipping,\nspitting. I feel like I’m in Sydney but I have to remind myself that I’m\nactually in Saigon.\n\nMrs Tuoc as a baby.\nTuoc’s grandmother and her children.\n\nTuoc\nIt is unbelievable how much local palates have developed. In the early\ndays, it was only the families who worked closely with the French who were\nfortunate enough to be able to eat cheese and drink wine, but now it’s not\nunusual to see the younger generation out there enjoying French cheeses and\nbecoming wine connoisseurs.\nAs I stand among the crowd, sampling Petaluma Riesling, I am introduced\nto a lady who is part of the team responsible for bringing the wine makers to\nSaigon. Her name is Mrs Tuoc and I ask her where in Australia she’s from.\nShe laughs, ‘I’m from Saigon, mate!’\nI’m shocked, as she speaks fluent English with an Aussie twang, and she\nhas light brown hair and a fair complexion.\n‘Don’t worry, I get that a lot. My grandfather is French, and I work for\nAustrade so I hang out with a lot of Aussies and I’ve been to Australia", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "several times for work, too.’\nIntrigued by her background, I ask her to tell me more about her\ngrandfather and her French heritage. She tells me that we need to get a bottle\nof wine and sit down, as it is a very long and complicated story…\n‘What I am about to tell you, I only found out for myself just ten years\nago,’ she begins, and already I’m intrigued. ‘My grandfather, Henri\nCosserat, was one of the first troops of French soldiers to be deployed into\nCochin China, Vietnam, in 1890. Ten years later he met a lady from Hue\nwhom he married. I call her my grandmother, but she isn’t exactly.\n‘Also living in Henri’s house was his wife’s seventeen-year-old niece.\nHenri had an affair with the niece and she fell pregnant. The niece was too\nafraid to tell him, so she told his wife instead.\n‘In fear of losing face and dignity, the wife took the niece to a remote\nvillage where she paid a friend to look after her niece during her pregnancy.\nWhen she gave birth, her baby son was taken from her. The niece was\nbooted out of town and was told never to return and to never tell Henri about\nthe child. That child was my father.\n‘Growing up, my father was told that his parents had died in a boat\naccident and that he was one hundred per cent Vietnamese. He married my\nmum in his twenties and they moved to Quan Nam province, where I was\nborn. When we moved to Saigon my father met a lady who came from the\nsame village where he had grown up. She told him that she knew his\nadoptive parents well and also knew his very first wet nurse, the lady who\nhad breast-fed him before he was given to his adoptive parents. My father\ndesperately wanted to return to his village to meet this woman, so the next\nday he caught an overnight bus to his hometown to look for her.\n‘He found her home, but received the sad news that she had passed away\njust a few days before. At her funeral, he met her son Bi. Bi told my father\nthat he knew his birth mother. My father said it was not possible, that both\nhis parents had died when he was only one month old.\n‘Bi sat my father down and told him all he knew, and explained that my\nfather had an uncle living in Nha Trang. If my father wanted to find out\nmore, he’d need to find his uncle.’", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "At this point I have to interrupt and get another bottle of wine. I tell her\nthat her family story sounds like an episode from Days of Our Lives. She\nlaughs then tells me to drink up because there is a lot more to the drama.\nI started to pursue an interest in the culinary\naspects of my French roots, and it really\nchanged the way I cook at home.\n‘My father caught the first bus to Nha Trang, eager to find out more about\nhis parents. But the uncle, now in his nineties, denied everything and told my\nfather that he was mistaken. But my father persisted and would not leave\nuntil his uncle gave him more information. The uncle soon gave in and told\nmy father everything, including news that his mother had another child. This\nmeant that my father had a half brother. But that wasn’t all; he also informed\nmy father that Henri also had another child named Maurice, who lives in\nToulon, France.\n‘In just two days my poor father had found out that his parents didn’t\nreally die in a boat accident, that his father was French, that he has a half\nbrother from his mother’s side who lives in the same town as he, and that he\nhas another half brother from his father’s side who lives in France.\n‘When my father told me this crazy story I wanted to go to France straight\naway to meet Maurice. Growing up I was always teased at school for\nlooking more like a Westerner than a Vietnamese. I was the outcast. I was\nnever called by my name, but was always called Lai My, which means\n‘Mixed Vietnamese American’. I never understood why I looked different,\nbut now I know.\n‘So we flew over to Toulon to meet Maurice and his family. My father and\nI became closer than ever before; we discovered more about ourselves and\nparts of our lives began to make more sense. Maurice showed us a family\nphoto album with pictures of my grandparents. It was the first time that my\nfather saw a photo of his dad; it was quite an emotional and overwhelming\nexperience.\n\n‘We spent a week getting to know our French family. We listened to lots of\namazing stories, drank loads of fantastic wine and Maurice and his children\ncooked really interesting dishes. Their food wasn’t exactly authentic French\nfare because they used fish sauce in absolutely everything! They marinated\nrabbit meat in fish sauce before slowly braising it in red wine, and they even\nseasoned their duck à l’orange with fish sauce. It all worked remarkably well\ntogether though, and all the dishes were absolutely delicious. I started to\npursue an interest in the culinary aspects of my French roots, and it really\nchanged the way I cook at home. Since then I have tried almost all of the\nfantastic French–Vietnamese eateries in Saigon.’\nListening to Tuoc’s story about her family in France, I begin to think about\nmy own uncles, aunties and cousins in France, most of whom I have never\nmet. I am told they are all great cooks, but I wonder after all these years\nliving in France if their food would be more French than Vietnamese, would\nit perhaps be contemporary Vietnamese or would they have kept to\ntraditional Vietnamese cooking. I’ve never been to France before, so it’s at\nthat moment I decide that I’ll go to Paris to see what influences the French\nhave had on Vietnamese cuisine — not in Vietnam but on the Vietnamese\nwho are living in France.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Pan-fried salmon in orange sauce\nSERVES 2 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nI came across this dish at a traditional Vietnamese\nrestaurant in Saigon. I asked the chef where the dish\nwas from and she told me that the salmon was local,\nfrom a small mountain village called Ta Phin in\nnorthern Vietnam, home to the Red Dzao minority.\nThe water is very cold up there, making it a perfect\nbreeding place for salmon.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n1 teaspoon annatto oil\n¼ teaspoon sweet paprika\n¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon\n400 g (14 oz) salmon fillet, skin on, pin-boned\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n20 g (¾ oz) butter\n1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced\n1 teaspoon potato starch\n3 tablespoons orange juice\n2 teaspoons sugar\n1 long red chilli, julienned\n5 coriander (cilantro) sprigs\n\nMETHOD\nCombine the fish sauce, annatto oil, paprika, cinnamon and a pinch of salt\nand pepper in a mixing bowl. Add the salmon and turn to coat in the\nmarinade, then cover and set aside at room temperature for 10 minutes.\nHeat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in a large frying pan over medium–\nhigh heat. Remove the salmon from the marinade and drain off the excess.\nAdd the salmon, skin side down, and cook for 3 minutes, or until the skin is\ncrisp and golden brown. Turn the fillet over and cook for a further minute,\nthen transfer to a serving plate. The salmon should still be pink in the\nmiddle.\nMeanwhile, heat the remaining oil and the butter in another frying pan\nover medium heat. Add the leek and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes, or until\nthe leek is softened slightly. Add the potato starch and stir to combine.\nStirring constantly, add the orange juice and cook until the liquid is slightly\nthickened. Season the sauce with the sugar and a pinch of salt and pepper.\nPour the orange sauce over the fish and garnish with the chilli and\ncoriander.\n\nCrab farci\nSERVES 4 AS A STARTER\nFarci is a French cooking term meaning ‘to stuff’, and\nthe Vietnamese have adopted both this term and\nmethod into their own cuisine. Along with stuffed\ncrab, tomato farci and eggplant farci are also quite\npopular in Vietnam.\nINGREDIENTS\n4 live blue swimmer crabs\n10 dried wood ear mushrooms\n20 g (¾ oz) dried bean thread (glass) noodles\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\n4 red Asian shallots, chopped\n2 tablespoons finely sliced spring onion (scallion), green part only\n4 egg yolks\n1 teaspoon light soy sauce\n1 teaspoon fish sauce\npinch of salt and ground black pepper\nvegetable oil, for deep-frying\nlime wedges, to serve\nlight soy sauce and sliced red chilli, for dipping\nMETHOD\nTo prepare your crabs humanely, put them in the freezer for 1 hour to put\nthem to sleep. Drop the crabs into a pot of boiling water for 20 minutes, then", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "drain well. Place each crab on a hard surface with its stomach facing up. In\nat wisting motion, pull the legs and claws away from the body. Using both\nhands, put your fingers under the edge of the shell between the crab’s body\nand the shell. Pull apart in opposite directions until you hear a snapping\nsound, then remove the stomach and any visible membranes. Crack open the\nlegs and pick the meat out. Use a spoon to scoop out the flesh in the main\nbody of the crab. Wash and dry the four top shells.\nPut the dried mushrooms in a bowl, cover with water and soak for 20\nminutes, then drain and thinly slice. Put the bean thread noodles in a bowl,\ncover with water and soak for 20 minutes, then drain. Use kitchen scissors to\ncut them into 3 cm (1¼ inch) lengths.\nIn a mixing bowl, combine the crabmeat, mushrooms, noodles, garlic,\nshallots, spring onion, egg yolks, soy sauce, fish sauce and the salt and\npepper. Mix the ingredients well. Stuff the crab mixture evenly into the crab\nshells.\nPlace the filled crab shells in a metal or bamboo steamer and cover with\nthe lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and\nsteam for 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.\nFill a wok or deep-fryer one-third full of oil and heat to 180°C (350°F), or\nuntil a cube of bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Carefully\nslide the shells into the oil, shell side down first, and flash-fry for 1 minute\non each side. Remove and drain on kitchen paper. Serve with lime wedges,\nand a small bowl of soy sauce and sliced chilli for dipping.\n\nCrisp rice flour crepe with lobster and enoki\nmushroom\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nCREPE BATTER\n80 g (2¾ oz/½ cup) rice flour\n20 g (¾ oz) plain (all-purpose) flour\n½ teaspoon salt\n1 teaspoon ground turmeric\n160 ml (5¼ fl oz) coconut cream\n160 ml (5¼ fl oz) chilled soda water\n1 spring onion (scallion), thinly sliced\nFILLING\n50 g (1¾ oz) dried mung beans, soaked overnight, drained\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n1 teaspoon chopped garlic\n400 g (14 oz) lobster tails, shells removed, thinly sliced\n200 g (7 oz) boneless pork belly, fat trimmed, thinly sliced\n1 spring onion (scallion), thinly sliced\n50 g (1¾ oz) bean sprouts\n100 g (3½ oz) enoki mushrooms, trimmed and cut into 2 cm (¾ inch) lengths\npinch of salt and ground white pepper\nWRAPPING\n12 mustard lettuce leaves\n1 handful perilla leaves", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "1 handful mint leaves\n100 ml (3½ fl oz) dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)\nMETHOD\nTo make the crepe batter, sift the rice flour and plain flour into a bowl, add\nthe salt and turmeric and mix well. Pour the coconut cream and soda water\ninto the bowl and mix well with a whisk to form a smooth batter. Set aside to\nrest for 10 minutes before use. This makes enough batter for three 32 cm\n(12½ inch) crepes.\nTo make the filling, line a metal or bamboo steamer with baking paper and\npunch a few small holes in the paper. Place the mung beans in the steamer\nand cover with the lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly\nboiling water and steam the beans for 15 minutes, or until soft. Remove and\nset aside.\nPlace a frying pan over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of the oil, the garlic\nand lobster and stir-fry for 3 minutes, or until the lobster is just cooked.\nRemove the lobster and set aside. Wipe the pan clean, then add the\nremaining oil and repeat this process with the pork belly. Set aside.\nTo make the crepe, lightly grease a non-stick 32 cm (12½ inch) frying pan\nover medium heat and sprinkle a third of the spring onion into the pan. Pour\nabout a third of the batter into the middle of the pan, then pick the pan up by\nthe handle and tip it to spread the batter over the entire surface of the pan.\nPour the excess back into the original batter. (The crepe should be quite\nthin.)\nScatter a third of the mung beans, lobster, pork, spring onion, bean sprouts\nand enoki mushrooms over half of the crepe. Season with a pinch of salt and\nwhite pepper. Reduce the heat to low and cook for about 6 minutes, or until\nthe crepe is crisp and browned. Using a spatula, fold the crepe in half and\nslide it onto a large plate.\nCut each crepe into three or four pieces. Pick up a piece of lettuce, a\ncouple of perilla and mint leaves, place the crepe on the lettuce and roll it up.\nDip the crepe parcel in the dipping fish sauce. Repeat with the remaining\nbatter and filling ingredients.\n\nCitrus-cured wagyu sirloin\nSERVES 6–8 AS AN APPETISER\nI can eat this dish every week — it is so clean and\nfresh with a great depth of flavour and texture. Some\nclassic Vietnamese recipes call for the beef to be\nslightly poached before being cured in the citrus, but\nbecause we are using such great quality beef, there is\nreally no need. Roll the trimmed sirloin in plastic\nwrap and freeze it for an hour; this will make it easier\nto thinly slice.\nINGREDIENTS\n320 ml (11 fl oz) lemon juice\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n2 teaspoons sugar\n1 teaspoon salt\n1 teaspoon ground white pepper\n400 g (14 oz) wagyu sirloin, trimmed and sliced as thinly as possible\n1 teaspoon fried red Asian shallots\n1 teaspoon fried garlic\n¼ teaspoon toasted rice powder\n½ teaspoon garlic oil\n1 large handful sawtooth coriander leaves, roughly chopped\n1 large handful rice paddy herb, roughly chopped\n1 large handful bean sprouts\n\n½ small red onion, thinly sliced\n2 tablespoons chopped roasted peanuts\n1 bird’s eye chilli, sliced\ndipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham), to serve\nMETHOD\nCombine the lemon juice and fish sauce in a bowl, then mix through the\nsugar, salt and white pepper.\nArrange the wagyu sirloin in a single layer in a dish. Pour the lemon juice\nmixture over the beef, ensuring all the beef is covered, and set aside to\nmarinate for 10 minutes.\nCombine the fried shallots, fried garlic, toasted rice powder, garlic oil,\nherbs and bean sprouts in a mixing bowl. Remove the beef from the lemon\nmixture and gently squeeze off the excess lemon juice, being careful not to\ntear the meat, and place it in the bowl. Gently mix to combine the beef with\nthe other ingredients.\nTransfer small portions of the beef mixture to 20 Chinese or regular\nspoons. Garnish with the onion, peanuts and chilli, and drizzle with a little\ndipping fish sauce.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Beef slow-braised in young coconut water\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n4 tablespoons light soy sauce\n1 tablespoon shaoxing rice wine\n3 tablespoons annatto oil\n1 teaspoon salt\n1 teaspoon ground black pepper\n1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) beef chuck or oyster blade, cut into 4 cm (1½ inch) dice\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n50 g (1¾ oz) butter\n2 red Asian shallots, chopped\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\n500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) chicken stock\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) young coconut water\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) pineapple juice\n200 g (7 oz) carrots, peeled and cut into 2 cm (¾ inch) dice\n200 g (7 oz) potato, peeled and cut into 2 cm (¾ inch) dice\n100 g (3½ oz) red Asian shallots, peeled and left whole\n100 g (3½ oz) skinned and podded broad (fava) beans (about 300 g /10½ oz\nbroad beans in their pods)\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n1 teaspoon sugar\n2 long red chillies, julienned\nsteamed jasmine rice, to serve\n\nMETHOD\nCombine the soy sauce, rice wine, annatto oil, salt and pepper in a mixing\nbowl. Add the beef and toss to coat in the marinade, then cover and set\naside at room temperature for 20 minutes. Drain the beef from the\nmarinade.\nIn a large saucepan, heat the oil and butter over medium heat. When the\nbutter begins to bubble, turn the heat to high, then add the beef and seal on\nall sides until browned. Add the chopped shallots and garlic and stir\ntogether with the beef for 2 minutes.\nPour in the chicken stock, coconut water and pineapple juice, covering all\nof the beef. If necessary, add a little more of each to ensure the beef is\ncovered in the liquid. Bring to the boil, skimming off any impurities, then\nreduce the heat to low and cook for 1 hour, or until nearly tender.\nAdd the carrot, potato, whole shallots and broad beans and cook for a\nfurther 15–20 minutes, or until the meat is very tender and the vegetables\nare cooked through. Add the fish sauce and sugar and cook for a further 5\nminutes. Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with the chilli. Serve with\nsteamed jasmine rice.\n\nTurmeric and lemongrass mulloway steamed\nin banana leaf\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n1 sheet banana leaf (80 cm/32 inches in length), cut in half\n500 g (1 lb 2 oz) mulloway fillet, skin on\nsea salt\n2 tablespoons dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)\nMARINADE\n1 cm (½ inch) piece of galangal, peeled and roughly chopped\n4 cm (1½ inch) piece of fresh turmeric, peeled and roughly chopped\n1 lemongrass stem, white part only, very finely chopped\n2 teaspoons chopped garlic\n2 teaspoons red curry powder (I like to use Ayam brand)\n2 tablespoons vegetable oil\n2 tablespoons fish sauce\nSALAD\n5 dried goji berries\n1 small pomelo\n½ small green papaya, julienned\n5 perilla leaves, sliced\n5 Vietnamese mint leaves, sliced\nMETHOD", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Heat a frying pan over medium heat. Lay the pieces of banana leaf, one at a\ntime, in the pan for 30 seconds on each side until the leaves become soft and\npliable. Set aside.\nTo make the marinade, put the galangal and turmeric in a mortar and pestle\nand pound to form a paste. Transfer the galangal and turmeric to a large\nmixing bowl. Add the remaining marinade ingredients, mix well, then set\naside for 10 minutes for the flavours to develop.\nSeason the fish with sea salt, then add to the marinade. Cover the bowl\nwith plastic wrap and place in the fridge to marinate for 1 hour, turning the\nfish over in the marinade after 30 minutes.\nMeanwhile, to make the salad, put the goji berries in a bowl, cover with\nwater and soak for 15 minutes, then drain. Peel the pomelo and roughly\nsegment it by simply tearing small pieces with your hands, doing your best\nto remove the tough outer pith. Put the pomelo in a mixing bowl with the\ngoji berries, papaya, perilla and Vietnamese mint leaves, and toss.\nWrap the fish in one piece of the banana leaf, folding down the ends to\nsecure. Place the wrapped fish in a large metal or bamboo steamer and cover\nwith the lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water\nand steam for 7–10 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through.\nLay the other piece of the banana leaf on a long platter, then transfer the\nfish to the platter, skin side up. Arrange the salad on top of the fish and dress\nwith the dipping fish sauce.\n\nPandan and ginger panna cotta\nSERVES 6\nI was surprised to see panna cotta served in many\ncontemporary Vietnamese restaurants in Saigon. Xu,\none of Saigon’s leading restaurants, does an incredible\npandanus version. Pandan leaves have a wonderful\nfragrance and flavour; they are the Vietnamese\nequivalent of the vanilla bean. If you have some\nleaves left over, tie them in a knot and cook them with\nyour rice.\nINGREDIENTS\n3 teaspoons gelatine powder\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) milk\n5 pandan leaves, roughly chopped\n60 g (2¼ oz) ginger, peeled and grated\n110 g (3¾ oz/½ cup) sugar\n500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) pouring (whipping) cream\nMETHOD\nPut 2 tablespoons of water in a small bowl. Sprinkle over the gelatine, then\nset aside for 5 minutes to allow the gelatine to swell and soften.\nIn a food processor, blend the milk with the pandan leaves for 30 seconds.\nPut the pandan milk in a saucepan with the ginger and bring just to the boil.\nTake the pan off the heat and set aside for 15 minutes to allow the flavours to\n\ninfuse, then strain the mixture through a fine sieve into another pan, pressing\ndown on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible.\nReturn the strained milk in the pan to the heat and add the sugar and\nsoftened gelatine; bring back to the boil to completely dissolve the gelatine,\nstirring well. Turn off the heat, then whisk in the cream. Strain, then pour\ninto six 150 ml (5 fl oz) Asian teacups and refrigerate for about 3 hours, or\nuntil set. Serve in the teacups or remove the panna cottas from their moulds\nif you wish.\n\nList of Recipes\nPork omelette\nMussels tossed with butter, crisp garlic and Asian basil\nCaramelised frogs’ legs\nSnails in coriander and Asian basil\nRaw kingfish with passionfruit, lemongrass and Vietnamese herbs\nPan-fried stuffed squid\nSteamed Vietnamese mint-stuffed chicken\nMeatballs steamed in caul fat\nCousin Khanh’s lemongrass and kaffir lime crème brûlée\nVerrine of eggplant, asparagus & Asian mushrooms with goat’s curd\nPan-fried sea bass with bitter melon and pea purée\nPig’s ear and green mango salad\nLaurent’s quail flambé\nChristophe’s crab wok-tossed with basil and black olives\nLamb cutlets cooked in preserved bean curd", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "I’M ON A DIRECT FLIGHT FROM HO CHI MINH CITY to Paris.\nLunch is served and, to my surprise, Vietnam Airlines is offering some very\ninteresting French–Vietnamese dishes: salad of dried beef, tea-smoked duck,\nbeaufort cheese and chanterelle mushrooms; beef tenderloin with butter,\npotato and turmeric purée; and a cheese platter of crottin de chavignol,\nfourme d’ambert, comté and camembert. All the flight attendants speak\nFrench and they even know a thing or two about French wines. I have to say,\nit is the most decadent fourteen hours I have ever spent on a plane.\nWe arrive at 5.30 am; the streets are empty and my hotel room is not ready\nfor another eight hours, but who needs sleep — I’m in Paris! I drop my bags\noff at reception, grab a map and head out.\nI have always had a certain image in my mind of what Paris would be like:\nthere’d be Parisians dressed in black-and-white striped shirts cycling down\nthe streets, with fresh long baguettes in their baskets; there would be others\ntaking a leisurely stroll home from the bakery, their baguettes safely tucked\nunder their arms — and funnily enough, that’s exactly what I see. On every\nstreet corner, or so it seems, there are patisseries and boulangeries, most\n\nwith queues twenty or so deep running out the door, as Parisians wait\npatiently for their daily bread. I choose the one with the longest line and wait\nmy turn.\nSimply standing inside the patisserie is a wonderful experience — the\ndecorative walls, antique tiles, the wonderful aromas coming from the oven,\nand row upon row of tempting treats… But mon dieu, what to choose?\nThere’s golden piles of fresh baguettes with their perfect crisp-crunchy\ncrusts, wicker baskets filled with billowy mounds of butter-rich flaky\ncroissants, dangerously tempting pain au chocolat and, of course, les\nmacarons, in a rainbow of flavours of pistachio, vanilla, lemon, chocolate\nand strawberry, to name a few.\nMadame greets me with a smile and a bonjour, and I give her my order in\nmy terrible French. I’d heard Parisians can be a bit rude, but au contraire, I\nfind them extremely pleasant and friendly.\nAs usual, my excitement gets the better of me and I order way too many\nthings. I take a seat al fresco, facing the street — the perfect spot to watch\nthe world go by — and tuck into my breakfast. Even though I feel very\n\nParisian sitting here, it feels not too dissimilar to a kerbside café experience\nin Saigon, where I often enjoyed my coffee and baguette — only the chairs\nare a tad bigger and a lot fancier here. I’ve only been here a few hours and\nalready it’s clear how important coffee and bread is in the rhythm of French\ndaily life — it’s little wonder the French introduced the art of brewing coffee\nand baking bread to Vietnam.\nWith my map in hand, I continue to walk, crossing over the picturesque\nSeine River, looking out at the Eiffel Tower on the south bank and the Notre\nDame Cathedral on the Île de la Cité, in the middle of the river. Passing\nthrough arrondissements 1 to 4, I am amazed at the number of great cafés,\npatisseries, wine bars and restaurants — a food lover’s paradise. I wish I\ncould live in Paris for a while so I could try out all these wonderful eateries,\nbut sadly I’m not here to eat French food, I’m here to visit my mother’s side\nof the family, to see if living in France has changed their way of preparing\nand cooking Vietnamese dishes.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Mother Two and the crew\nHA THI HIEU IS MY MOTHER’S ELDEST SISTER, KNOWN to her\nsiblings as Sister Two. When my mother was busy working in the family\nmarket stall in Saigon, Sister Two looked after my brother and sister — so\nshe became ‘Mother Two’ to them. Then, when I was born, I followed\ntradition and called her Mother Two as well.\nMother Two has six children: Richard, Anton, Raymond, Isabella,\nChristophe and Laurent. My cousins have always been a big part of my\nfamily and even though we live in different countries our families have kept\nin close contact. Most of them have been to Australia and my three siblings\nhave been to visit them in France; it’s only me, for one reason or another,\nwho has never been able to be in the same country at the same time. But\nalthough we’ve never met, I feel so close to them and already know so much\nabout them.\nRichard, Raymond, Christophe and Laurent now live in Paris while\nMother Two, Anton and Isabella live in Marseille, where they were all\nbrought up. It is summer holidays in France, so Laurent has gone to visit his\nmother and sister, and I’m to catch the first train to Marseille and meet him\nthere.\nSomehow, with only a few words of French, I manage to get myself to the\nGare de Lyon in Paris and on a train to Marseille, in the south of France, a\njourney that takes about five hours. An attendant pushes a trolley through the\ncarriage and offers me a croissant, tea or coffee. I order a coffee and am\namazed at what I’m given. It’s what I know as Vietnamese drip coffee, but of\ncourse this drip system originated in France and was introduced to Vietnam\nin the late 1800s. I’m so excited to see something so familiar, and it’s my\nfavourite way to drink coffee. I ask him if he has any condensed milk to go\nwith it, but he looks at me like I am a bit peculiar and hands me a little pot of\nmilk instead.\n\nThi and Anne\nA few hours later I arrive at Marseille. A tall Indian man waves to me; he\napproaches, shakes my hand and in perfect Vietnamese introduces himself.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "‘Hi, I’m your cousin Sawa. I’m Isabella’s husband.’\nWe hop in his car and head towards Martigues, a small town a good thirty\nminutes’ drive from Marseille, and Sawa does not stop talking the whole\nway. He jumps from English to Vietnamese, passionately expressing his love\nfor good food and his loyalty to French wine.\nI am so impressed by her food; the dishes are\ntraditional Vietnamese dishes but the sauces are\nall very French.\nMartigues reminds me of Venice, with its colourful houses sitting shoulder\nto shoulder along boat-lined canals. A strip of French eateries and bars line\nthe picturesque waterfront and amongst them, a cute Vietnamese restaurant\nowned by my second cousin, Yen. Inside, the restaurant is filled with forty to\nfifty people. At first I think they are just guests of the restaurant but then I\nrealise they are — all of them! — actually my relatives who have come from\nall over the south of France to welcome Laurent home.\nHalf an hour later it seems and I am still meeting and greeting the clan,\ngiving each the customary French double kiss, which holds no familiarity\nwithin either my Vietnamese or Australian upbringing. More and more\nrelatives arrive, some Vietnamese, others with mixed French and Indian\nheritage. I do a quick head count: fifty-four relatives. I feel so fortunate that\nmy family is such a wonderful melting pot of cultures and cuisines. And I\ncan hardly wait to try the food!\nSawa pours me a fantastic red from Bordeaux to accompany the dishes\ncooked by Yen. She cooks mussels tossed in garlic, butter and Asian basil;\nflash fries some frogs’ legs then tosses them in a caramel sauce; she serves\nchilli salted school prawns with a creamy garlic mayonnaise. I am so\nimpressed by her food; the dishes are traditional Vietnamese dishes but the\nsauces are all very French.\nWord soon gets around the room that I am interested in how the family’s\ncooking has evolved over the last thirty years, and before I know it, another\ngathering is organised for the following day. We are to meet at cousin\n\nAnton’s house in Marseille, where my relatives are keen on whipping up\ntheir favourite dishes for me to try. It is going to be an exciting cook-off, as\nhalf of these new-found relatives are in the food industry, either running\ntheir own restaurants, bakeries, noodle bars or catering companies. This love\naffair with food has got to be in the Nguyen family DNA!\nAnton, Laurent and Luke;\n\nLaurent, Thi, Philippe, Luke and Sawa\n\nPork omelette\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nOmelettes are an everyday breakfast meal in most\nFrench households,and the Vietnamese have created\ntheir own versions that can be eaten for breakfast,\nlunch or dinner. My cousins in Marseille whipped this\nup for our lunch. It was so simple and so very tasty.\nINGREDIENTS\n6 eggs\n½ teaspoon salt\n½ teaspoon ground black pepper\n1 teaspoon fish sauce\n2 spring onions (scallions), white part only, sliced\n1 tablespoon vegetable oil\n½ small red onion, finely chopped\n2 garlic cloves, crushed\n100 g (3½ oz) minced (ground) lean pork\ncoriander (cilantro) leaves, to garnish\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMETHOD\nWhisk together the eggs, salt, pepper, fish sauce and spring onion in a\nmixing bowl.\n\nPlace a non-stick frying pan over medium heat, add the oil, then fry the\nonion and garlic until soft and fragrant. Add the pork and continue to fry,\nstirring, until browned.\nPour the omelette mixture into the pan and cover with a lid. Cook for 4\nminutes, or until the base is golden brown and the top is just set. Slide the\nomelette out of the pan onto a plate. Garnish with the coriander and serve\nwith baguettes.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Mussels tossed with butter, crisp garlic and\nAsian basil\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) small mussels\n1 tablespoon vegetable oil\n40 g (1½ oz) butter\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\n2 red Asian shallots, chopped\n2 teaspoons fish sauce\ngenerous pinch of salt and coarsely cracked black pepper\n10 Asian basil leaves, sliced\n1 tablespoon fried garlic\n1 long red chilli, julienned\nMETHOD\nScrub and debeard the mussels. Discard any open mussels or any open ones\nthat don’t close when tapped on the work surface.\nPlace a large wok over high heat, add 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) of water and\nbring to a rapid boil. Add the mussels, cover with a lid and cook until the\nmussels open slightly, stirring the mussels occasionally to ensure they cook\nevenly. Remove the mussels from the wok and set aside.\nWipe the wok clean with kitchen paper and place over medium heat, then\nadd the oil and butter. When the butter starts to bubble, add the garlic and\n\nshallots and cook for 2–3 minutes until browned. Return the mussels to the\nwok and toss for 1 minute. Discard any mussels that do not open.\nSeason with the fish sauce, salt and pepper, then add the basil and toss for\na further 30 seconds. Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with the fried\ngarlic and chilli.\n\nCaramelised frogs’ legs\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nI have never seen frogs’ legs cooked in this way\nbefore. Cousin Sawa explains that the French–\nVietnamese in Marseille created this dish forty years\nago. It’s certainly not something that you would find\nanywhere in Vietnam.\nINGREDIENTS\n4 tablespoons fish sauce\n2 tablespoons soy sauce\n1 tablespoon shaoxing rice wine\n2 tablespoons honey\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\n4 cm (1½ inch) piece of ginger, peeled and julienned\n2 red Asian shallots, chopped\n500 g (1 lb 2 oz) frogs’ legs\nvegetable oil, for deep-frying\n75 g (2½ oz/½ cup) potato starch\ncoriander (cilantro) sprigs, to garnish\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMETHOD\nCombine the fish sauce, soy sauce, rice wine, honey, garlic, ginger and\nshallots in a mixing bowl. Stir to combine well. Add the frogs’ legs and turn\n\nto coat in the marinade, then cover and place in the fridge to marinate for 1\nhour. Drain, reserving the marinade.\nHeat the oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of\nbread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Dust the frogs’ legs with\nthe potato starch and deep-fry in three batches for 3 minutes, or until golden\nin colour. Remove the frogs’ legs from the oil and place on kitchen paper to\ndrain.\nWipe the wok clean with kitchen paper, then add the reserved marinade to\nthe wok. Bring to the boil and cook for 2 minutes, or until the sauce is\nreduced and syrupy. Return the frogs’ legs to the wok and toss for 1 minute\nto coat the legs well with the caramelised sauce. Garnish with the coriander\nand serve with baguettes.\nNote You can make this dish substituting quail for the frogs’ legs.\n\nSnails in coriander and Asian basil\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nMy first meal in France was in a little restaurant in\nSaint Germain in Paris. I ordered a bottle of wine and\na serve of escargot cooked in butter, garlic and\nparsley. They were so good that I didn’t think I’d ever\nfind tastier snails in France — until I tried my\ncousin’s Vietnamese version.\nINGREDIENTS\n24 fresh snails\n200 g (7 oz) unsalted butter, at room temperature\n2 tablespoons chopped garlic\n1 small handful coriander (cilantro) leaves\n1 small handful Asian basil leaves\n1½ teaspoons salt\n½ teaspoon ground black pepper rock salt\nVietnamese baguettes, warmed, to serve\nMETHOD\nRemove the snails from their shells, then wash both the snails and their\nshells in salted water, leaving them to soak for 10 minutes before rinsing\nunder cold water. Repeat this process three times. Set the snails and the\nshells aside.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "In a food processor, blitz together the butter, garlic, coriander, Asian basil,\nsalt and pepper. Remove from the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set\naside at cool room temperature to allow the flavours to develop.\nPreheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Line the bottom of a baking tray\nwith rock salt.\nFill each snail shell with ½ teaspoon of the coriander and basil butter.\nPlace a snail in each shell, pushing it into the butter. Use the remaining\ncoriander and basil butter to fill up the shells. Place the shells in the rock salt\non the tray, butter side up. Place the tray in the oven and bake for 8–10\nminutes, or until the butter is sizzling hot and bubbling. Serve with warm\nbaguettes.\n\nThe Marseille cook-off\nARRIVING AT MY COUSIN ANTON’S HOUSE I AM introduced to\neven more family members, all here for the cook-off. They’ve come armed\nwith recipes and bags and bags of ingredients, all eager to show off their\nmuch-loved family dishes. Everyone begins to set up their work area, and it\ndoesn’t take long before their competitive natures kick in and they begin\nmuscling in on each other for the most bench space.\nThe clock strikes midday and the cook-off begins. There’s baguettes filled\nwith chargrilled pork neck and coriander; meatballs steamed in caul fat;\nmung bean dumplings rolled in coconut; hoisin-coated duck breast pan-fried\nand served with egg noodles; whole prawns fried on crisp rice flour cakes;\nchicken curry cooked in Indian spices; Vietnamese mint-stuffed steamed\nchicken; escargot grilled in butter, coriander and basil; chicken slow-braised\nin soy and coconut water. The table begins to groan under the weight of so\nmany dishes — there’s hardly any room to fit our wine glasses!\nOn and on they cook, well into the night, each person trying to outdo the\nother in an impressive show of technique and speed, each passionately\nexplaining the cooking process, some even letting slip a few treasured recipe\nsecrets. All the dishes reflect a combination of Vietnamese, Indian, French\nand Chinese cooking styles, which I guess is what Vietnamese cuisine is,\nessentially, today.\nLaurent pulls me aside. ‘The food is delicious, isn’t it,’ he says. ‘It’s a pity\nmy other three brothers aren’t here, because they are also fantastic cooks.\nWhen we head back to Paris, I will get them all together and they’ll cook for\nyou.’\nI am amazed to see an entire family of awesome cooks. I ask Laurent\nwhere it all began and if there was one person who inspired this great\npassion for food that they all seem to have inherited. He points to an elderly\nman at the back of the room.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "‘That is my father; he is a legendary cook. A French family, who were\nliving in Saigon in the early 1900s, adopted my father, giving him the French\nname Paul Sabourdy. This meant that he was automatically a citizen of\nFrance, so when the French pulled out of Vietnam, my father also had the\nright to leave. My father was married by this time and had a family of his\nown, but this didn’t mean we were all automatically given French\ncitizenship. He had to make the decision to leave us behind in Saigon, with\nthe firm promise that he would bring us over as soon as he could.\nI ask Laurent where it all began and if there was\none person who inspired this great passion for\nfood that they all seem to have inherited. He\npoints to an elderly man at the back of the\nroom.\n‘With nothing more than the clothes on his back, my father left for France\nin search of a better life for his family. He arrived in a small town called\nPort-de-Bouc, not far from Marseille. It was an area where many other\nVietnamese people had migrated to, and it was easy for him to settle there\nbecause the food, faces and language were all so familiar. My father\neventually opened his own little food store. He handmade rice noodles and\nfilled them with pork and mushrooms, he made Vietnamese cakes and sweet\ndumplings, steamed pork buns and even baked his own bread and pastries.\nHis store was constantly busy with local Vietnamese who queued up to buy\nhis famous handmade noodles.\n‘In 1976 the French government accepted my father’s sponsorship\napplication, which allowed my mum and us kids to come and live in France.\nWe were all so very excited about it; we thought that life would be easier,\nthat we would no longer live in hardship. But we were so wrong.\n‘We rarely saw my father, he was always busy working, and my mother\nwould look after us six kids on her own. We stayed in a refugee camp for a\nwhile until the government gave us a tiny flat. I remember we spent most\nnights huddled together trying to keep warm; we weren’t used to the freezing\n\nEuropean weather and we couldn’t afford any heating of course. When we\nwere old enough, we all found jobs in restaurants, so we were all very\nexperienced in the hospitality industry by the age of fourteen.\n‘Anton opened a Vietnamese restaurant with our other brother Richard,\nIsabella opened a Vietnamese– Indian restaurant with her husband, Sawa,\nand his mother, and Raymond, Christophe and I moved to Paris and together\nwe opened a hair salon. Christophe now has his own tattoo shop with our\nother cousins, and I too will soon leave the hair-dressing business and open\nmy own restaurant; it’s something I’ve always wanted to do.’\nLaurent and I spend the next two hours talking about our favourite\nVietnamese dishes, restaurant design concepts, our love for good food, and\nthe fascination we both have with the evolution of Vietnamese cuisine.\n\nRaw kingfish with passionfruit, lemongrass\nand Vietnamese herbs\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nPassionfruit is used in both French and Vietnamese\ncuisines, but I have only started using it in my own\ncooking since researching this book. I love it for its\nsweet yet sour characters. When you visit Vietnam,\nmake sure you try a freshly squeezed passionfruit\njuice.\nINGREDIENTS\n500 g (1 lb 2 oz) sashimi-grade kingfish\n3 passionfruit\n3 tablespoons dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)\n5 perilla leaves, thinly sliced\n5 small mint leaves\n10 small Vietnamese mint leaves\n1 lemongrass stem, white part only, thinly sliced\n1 bird’s eye chilli, thinly sliced\nMETHOD\nThinly slice the kingfish and transfer it straight onto a serving platter,\narranging the pieces so they overlap slightly.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Juice 2 of the passionfruit, then strain the juice, discarding the seeds. Add\nthe dipping fish sauce to the strained juice, stir to combine, then drizzle the\ndressing over the kingfish. Juice the remaining passionfruit (including the\nseeds) onto the kingfish, then sprinkle the herbs and lemongrass over the top.\nGarnish with the chilli and serve immediately.\n\nPan-fried stuffed squid\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n50 g (1¾ oz) dried wood ear mushrooms\n20 g (¾ oz) dried bean thread (glass) noodles\n12 small squid\n4 raw large king prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined\n250 g (9 oz) minced (ground) pork\n3 spring onions (scallions), chopped\n2 tablespoons chopped lemongrass, white part only\n2 tablespoons chopped water chestnuts\n1½ tablespoons sugar\n1 teaspoon salt\n1 teaspoon ground white pepper\n4 tablespoons vegetable oil\n2 tomatoes, chopped\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\ncoriander (cilantro) sprigs, to garnish\nMETHOD\nPut the dried mushrooms in a bowl, cover with water and soak for 20\nminutes, then drain and thinly slice. Put the bean thread noodles in a separate\nbowl, cover with water and soak for 20 minutes, then drain and use kitchen\nscissors to cut into 4 cm (1½ inch) lengths.\nRemove the innards from the squid by pulling the tentacles from the body,\nthen carefully remove the innards, taking care not to break the ink sac as you\n\ndo so. Discard the innards and ink sac. Cut across the head, underneath the\neyes, to separate the tentacles in one piece; discard the eyes. Push the\ntentacles outwards to squeeze the beak out, then discard it, reserving the\ntentacles. Slice off the wings from the body with a knife, remove the skin\nfrom the wings, then set aside. Remove the skin on the body by running your\nfinger underneath the skin, separating it from the flesh, then peel it off in one\npiece and discard.\nSet the tubes aside. Dice the squid tentacles and wings and the prawns and\nplace in a large bowl. Add the mushrooms, noodles, pork, spring onion,\nlemongrass, water chestnuts, 1 tablespoon of the sugar, salt and pepper and\ncombine well.\nLay the squid tubes flat on a board and pierce the tip of each tube with a\nknife. (This allows trapped air to escape when the tube contracts during\ncooking, and will prevent it from exploding.) Now stuff a quantity of\nmixture into the tube, leaving room to allow for contraction, and secure with\na toothpick. Repeat to fill all the tubes.\nPlace the squid in a steamer and cover with the lid. Sit the steamer over a\nwok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and steam for 20 minutes. Remove\nand set aside. Pat dry with kitchen paper.\nHeat a large frying pan over medium heat, then add the oil and pan-fry the\nsquid for 4 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Remove from the\npan and put in a warm place. Add the tomatoes, fish sauce and remaining 2\nteaspoons of sugar to the pan and stir. Bring to a simmer and reduce for 5\nminutes. Transfer the tomato sauce to a serving platter. Cut the squid into 1\ncm (½ inch) slices, then place on top of the sauce. Garnish with the\ncoriander.\n\nSteamed Vietnamese mint-stuffed chicken\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n1 x 1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) chicken, cleaned\nMARINADE\n4 red Asian shallots, finely chopped\n1 bunch Vietnamese mint, leaves picked and thinly sliced (reserve a few\nwhole leaves for garnish)\n12 lemon leaves, thinly sliced\n1 lemongrass stem, white part only, finely chopped\n2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic\n2 long red chillies, finely chopped\n1 teaspoon chilli powder\n1 tablespoon garlic oil\n1 teaspoon sesame oil\n2 tablespoons fish sauce\n2 tablespoons oyster sauce\n2 teaspoons sugar\ngenerous pinch of salt and ground black pepper\nSALT, PEPPER AND LEMON DIPPING SAUCE\n2 teaspoons sea salt\n1 tablespoon ground white pepper\njuice of 2 lemons", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "METHOD\nCombine all the marinade ingredients in a mixing bowl, stirring well to\ndissolve the sugar. Rub this mixture all over the chicken skin, pushing some\nmixture under the skin. Rub the chicken cavity with the mixture, then stuff\nthe remaining mixture into the cavity. Cover and place in the fridge to\nmarinate for 1 hour.\nMeanwhile, to make the salt, pepper and lemon dipping sauce, put all the\ningredients in a small bowl, stirring to combine well.\nPlace the chicken in a large metal or bamboo steamer and cover with the\nlid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and\nsteam for 45–55 minutes, or until cooked through (test the thickest part of\nthe chicken to see if it is cooked, between the thigh and the body).\nUsing a cleaver, chop the chicken through the bones into bite-sized\npieces. Serve with the reserved Vietnamese mint and the salt, pepper and\nlemon dipping sauce.\n\nMeatballs steamed in caul fat\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n20 g (¾ oz) dried bean thread (glass) noodles\n100 g (3½ oz) caul fat (see note)\n300 g (10½ oz) minced (ground) beef\n100 g (3½ oz) chicken livers, chopped\n2 quail egg yolks\n75 g (2½ oz/½ cup) frozen green peas\n2 tablespoons chopped red Asian shallots\n1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds\n2 tablespoons fried garlic\n1 teaspoon white peppercorns, coarsely ground\n1 tablespoon sugar\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n½ teaspoon sesame oil\n½ teaspoon salt\nsliced spring onion (scallion), to garnish\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nlight soy sauce and sliced chilli, for dipping\nMETHOD\nPut the bean thread noodles in a bowl, cover with water and soak for 20\nminutes, then drain and use kitchen scissors to cut into 5 mm (¼ inch)\nlengths. Season the caul fat with salt and pepper, then cut into six pieces.\n\nIn a large mixing bowl, combine the noodles, beef, chicken liver, egg\nyolks, green peas, shallots, sesame seeds, fried garlic, white pepper, sugar,\nfish sauce, sesame oil and salt. Mix all the ingredients together well.\nWith oiled hands, mould the mixture into six even-sized balls. Lay a sheet\nof caul fat on a chopping board or work surface, place a meatball in the\nmiddle and wrap it up in the caul. Repeat with the remaining balls and caul\nfat.\nPlace the meatballs in a metal or bamboo steamer and cover with the lid.\nSit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and steam\nfor 25 minutes. Remove the meatballs to a platter and garnish with the spring\nonion. Serve with baguettes and a small bowl of soy sauce and sliced chilli\nfor dipping.\nNote Caul fat is available from specialist butchers or ask your butcher to\norder it for you.\n\nCousin Khanh’s lemongrass and kaffir lime\ncrème brûlée\nSERVES 8\nCousin Khanh had worked as a chef in a Vietnamese\nrestaurant for many years, when he realised how\nmany similarities there were between Vietnamese and\nFrench cooking. Keen to extend his French cooking\nskills, he now works as an apprentice in a French\nkitchen. This is his recipe and, as is typical for\nVietnamese sweets, he steams the brûlée rather than\ncooking it in an oven.\nINGREDIENTS\n750 ml (26 fl oz/3 cups) pouring (whipping) cream\n1 vanilla bean\n8 kaffir lime (makrut) leaves, thinly sliced\n3 lemongrass stems, white part only, finely chopped\n120 g (4¼ oz) caster (superfine) sugar, plus 40 g (1½ oz) extra, for\nsprinkling\n12 free-range egg yolks\nMETHOD\nPour the cream into a saucepan. Split the vanilla bean lengthways and scrape\nthe seeds into the cream. Add the lime leaves and lemongrass and bring to", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "the boil, then turn off the heat. Cover the pan and allow the flavours to\ninfuse for 10 minutes.\nBeat the sugar and egg yolks together in a mixing bowl until creamy. Pour\nthe cream over the egg mixture, whisking constantly until combined. Strain\nthe cream and egg mixture into a large jug, discarding the solids, then pour\ninto eight 125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) Asian teacups, filling each about two-thirds\nfull.\nBring a wok or saucepan of water to a rapid boil. Place the teacups in a\nmetal or bamboo steamer and cover with the lid. Reduce the heat to low,\nthen sit the steamer over the wok and steam for 25–30 minutes, or until just\nset; they will still be slightly wobbly in the middle. Allow to cool to room\ntemperature, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours, or until\nset.\nTo serve, evenly distribute a teaspoon of caster sugar over the top of each\ncrème, and then caramelise with a kitchen blowtorch or under a hot grill\n(broiler) for a few minutes.\n\nThe Sabourdy brothers\nTHE NEXT DAY, LAURENT AND I HEAD BACK to Paris to meet up\nwith his other three brothers. As we leave the train station in the 13th\narrondissement, I notice every shop front has Vietnamese writing on it. This\narea reminds me of a miniature version of Saigon, with its Vietnamese\nbakeries, cafés, pho restaurants, greengrocers, fish markets and fabric shops.\nThis is where many Vietnamese migrants to Paris settled, forming a small\ncommunity, much like you see in Australia’s Cabramatta in Sydney or\nFootscray in Melbourne. Laurent tells me that the Vietnamese food served in\nthese restaurants is only so-so, that if I want to eat really good food, it needs\nto be cooked by the Sabourdy brothers!\nWe arrive at Raymond’s and, in typical Sabourdy fashion, his apartment is\npacked with family and friends. As I enter the room, Christophe rushes\ntowards me and gives me a huge bear hug. He is covered in tattoos, has long\nhair and is bubbling with excitement and energy. He whips out his newly\npurchased chef’s knife and tells me to get ready to witness the true master\nchef at work.\nChristophe takes a corner of a large bench in the middle of the kitchen and\nbegins to prepare his dishes. Laurent takes his shirt off, revealing a leaping\ndragon tattoo inked on his chest. It is like these guys are getting ready for\nbattle. Next up is the eldest, Richard, a classically French-trained chef, who\nskilfully carves chicken off the bone for his poached chicken roulade. Last\nup is multi-talented Raymond, the host of the party, who allows his younger\nbrothers to prepare their dishes first. I am surprised to see them filleting the\nfish, carving meat off the bone, the strong use of bay leaves, thyme, sage,\nwine, sultanas, grapes, olive oil and loads of butter. These aren’t techniques\nor ingredients you often see in a Vietnamese kitchen.\nThree hours later and the four brothers have created dishes that would not\nbe out of place in a fine dining restaurant anywhere in the world. There’s\npig’s ear and green mango salad; quail flambé; poached chicken roulade;\n\ncrab with basil and black olives; sea bass with bitter melon and pea purée;\nand lamb cutlets cooked in preserved bean curd. I am blown away with their\ncooking ideas, their expert marriage of flavours and the combination of\nVietnamese and French cooking methods.\nI sit in the kitchen with my cousins, each sampling and praising the other’s\ndishes. I feel so deeply proud and honoured to be part of this experience. We\nlive on opposite sides of the world, but have united thirty-two years on\nthrough our love and passion for food.\nLaurent, Christophe and Luke\n\nLuke’s mum, Cuc Phuong Nguyen, and Christophe", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Verrine of eggplant, asparagus & Asian\nmushrooms with goat’s curd\nSERVES 4 AS A STARTER\nA verrine is a layered savoury appetiser, snack or\ndessert in a small glass, its name taken from the\nFrench verre, meaning ‘glass’. You can use whatever\nvegetables are fresh and in season to create your own\nversions.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) vegetable oil, for deep-frying\n2 Japanese eggplants (aubergines), cut into 4 mm (1/8 inch) dice\n6 asparagus spears, trimmed and sliced in half crossways\n40 g (1½ oz) butter\n1 tablespoon chopped garlic\n100 g (3½ oz) shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced\n100 g (3½ oz) enoki mushrooms, sliced into 3 cm (1¼ inch) lengths\n100 g (3½ oz) shimeji mushrooms, thinly sliced\n2 tablespoons light soy sauce\n1 teaspoon sesame oil\n200 g (7 oz) goat’s curd\n2 teaspoons black sesame seeds, toasted\n4 watercress sprigs\nMETHOD\n\nHeat the oil in a wok to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of bread dropped into\nthe oil browns in 15 seconds. Add the eggplant and deep-fry for 3–4 minutes\nuntil browned and soft. Remove and place on kitchen paper to drain. Drain\noff the excess oil in the wok and wipe clean with kitchen paper, reserving the\nwok.\nBring a saucepan of water to the boil, add the asparagus and blanch for 2\nminutes. Drain, then place the asparagus in iced water to stop the cooking\nprocess. Drain the asparagus, then thinly slice. Set aside.\nHeat the wok over medium heat, then add half the butter. When the butter\nstarts to bubble, add 2 teaspoons of the garlic and all the mushrooms. Stir-fry\nfor 1 minute, then add 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and ½ teaspoon of the\nsesame oil, and season with salt and pepper. Stir-fry for a further minute,\nthen remove the mushrooms from the wok and set aside.\nRepeat this process with the eggplant and the remaining butter, garlic, soy\nsauce and sesame oil. Remove and set aside.\nHave ready four martini or small dessert glasses (about 220 ml/ 7½ fl oz\ncapacity). Add 1 tablespoon of mushrooms to the bottom of each glass,\nfollowed by 1 tablespoon of asparagus, 1 tablespoon of goat’s curd, 1\ntablespoon of eggplant, then another tablespoon of mushrooms and\nasparagus. Garnish with a sprinkle of black sesame seeds and a sprig of\nwatercress.\n\nPan-fried sea bass with bitter melon and pea\npurée\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nINGREDIENTS\n1 bitter melon\n1 carrot\n1 teaspoon sugar\n2 cm (¾ inch) piece of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)\n2 tablespoons olive oil\n2 garlic cloves, flattened with skin on\n2 sea bass fillets (500 g/1 lb 2 oz in total), skin on\nPEA AND VIETNAMESE MINT PURÉE\n310 g (11 oz/2 cups) shelled fresh green peas\n5 Vietnamese mint leaves\n1 garlic clove, crushed\n1 red Asian shallot, sliced\n20 g (¾ oz) butter\nMETHOD\nTo make the pea and mint purée, put the peas, Vietnamese mint, garlic and\nshallot in a saucepan of boiling salted water. Reduce the heat to a simmer\nand cook for 5 minutes. Drain, reserving the liquid. Using a stick blender,\npurée the mixture with the butter and a dash of the reserved liquid to create a\nsmooth paste. If you don’t have a stick blender use a food processor, or", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "simply mash with a fork. If you want a very fine purée, push the mixture\nthrough a fine sieve before serving. Set aside and keep warm.\nSlice the bitter melon in half lengthways. Using a spoon, scrape out the\nseeds, then slice the melon into neat 5 cm (2 inch) lengths. Peel the carrot\nand cut it into neat lengths the same size and thickness as the bitter melon.\nBring a saucepan of water to the boil and add the sugar and ginger. Add the\nbitter melon and blanch for 2 minutes, then remove to a bowl of iced water\nto stop the cooking process. Bring the water in the saucepan back to the boil,\nthen blanch the carrots for 2 minutes, drain well, then add to the iced water.\nWhen the vegetables are cooled, strain, discarding the ginger.\nMeanwhile, pour the dipping fish sauce into a small saucepan and reduce\nby half. Set aside.\nHeat a large frying pan over medium heat, then add the olive oil and fry\nthe garlic cloves until browned. Remove the garlic, then pan-fry the sea bass,\nskin side down, for 4 minutes. Turn the fillets over and cook for a further 2\nminutes. Transfer the fish to a serving platter and serve with the bitter melon,\ncarrots and pea purée. Drizzle with the thickened sauce.\n\nPig’s ear and green mango salad\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nWhen Laurent shows me the pig’s ears that he plans\nto make into a salad, I can’t wait to try it, as I find the\ntexture of pig’s ears quite unlike anything else. The\nears are one part of the pig that should never be\noverlooked or wasted.\nINGREDIENTS\n3 teaspoons salt\n2 pig’s ears, cleaned (from your Asian butcher)\n2 teaspoons sesame oil\n2 tablespoons oyster sauce\n1 teaspoon five-spice\n1 teaspoon sea salt\n2 x 250 g (9 oz) green mangoes, peeled and julienned\n8 perilla leaves, thinly sliced\n8 small Vietnamese mint leaves\n8 small mint leaves\n1 teaspoon fried garlic\n1 tablespoon fried red Asian shallots\nDRESSING\n2 teaspoons dijon mustard\nabout 1 tablespoon lime juice\n\n125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) olive oil\n2 teaspoons sugar\n1 red Asian shallot, finely chopped\n2 tablespoons chopped coriander (cilantro) leaves\n1 teaspoon salt\n½ teaspoon ground black pepper\nMETHOD\nBring a saucepan of water to the boil and add the salt. Submerge the pig’s\nears, then cook the ears for 15 minutes. Weigh down with a plate to keep the\nears submerged. Remove the ears and set aside to cool a little, then use a\nrazor to shave any hairs that still remain. Wash under cold water and drain.\nCombine the sesame oil, oyster sauce, five-spice and sea salt in a mixing\nbowl. Add the pig’s ears and toss to coat in the marinade, then cover and set\naside to marinate for 20 minutes.\nTo make the dressing, combine the mustard and lime juice in a mixing\nbowl, then drizzle in the oil, stirring to combine. Add the sugar and stir to\ndissolve. Taste for balance, adding a little more lime juice if needed. Add the\nremaining dressing ingredients and stir to combine. Set aside.\nHeat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium heat. Add the ears and\nchargrill for 10 minutes on each side, or until browned. Slice the ears into\nthin strips, then transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the green mango, herbs, fried\ngarlic, fried shallots and dressing. Toss together well and transfer to a\nserving platter.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Laurent’s quail flambé\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nI noticed that all my cousins regularly cooked with\nmany varieties of bouquet garni. Now I too have\nbegun to adopt the use of French herbs into my own\nVietnamese cooking.\nINGREDIENT\n6 quails (see note, or ask your butcher to remove the ribcage from the quails,\nreserving the bones)\n1 teaspoon oyster sauce\n3 tablespoons fish sauce\n1 tablespoon vegetable oil\n1 carrot, peeled and chopped\n1 red Asian shallot, chopped\n85 g (3 oz/½ cup) sultanas (golden raisins)\n1 teaspoon tamarind pulp\n1 bouquet garni of 2 thyme sprigs and 2 bay leaves\n500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) white wine\n125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) chicken stock\n1 tablespoon sugar\n1 tablespoon olive oil\n1 teaspoon butter\n125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) Cognac\n8 grapes, peeled and halved\n\nVietnamese baguettes, to serve\nMETHOD\nPut the quails in a large mixing bowl. Combine the oyster sauce and 2\ntablespoons of the fish sauce and add to the bowl. Toss the quails to coat in\nthe marinade, then cover and set aside at room temperature for 20 minutes.\nHeat a frying pan over medium heat, then add the oil and cook the\nreserved quail bones for 2 minutes. Add the carrot, shallot, sultanas,\ntamarind, bouquet garni, white wine and chicken stock. Bring to the boil,\nskimming off all impurities, then season with the remaining fish sauce and\nthe sugar. Strain, discarding the solids, then return the liquid to the pan on\nthe stovetop and reduce the sauce to a third.\nHeat a large frying pan over medium heat, then add the olive oil and butter.\nWhen the butter begins to foam, add the quails in batches and cook on each\nside for 3 minutes, or until browned.\nCarefully pour the Cognac into the pan (there will be flames, so watch\nyour hair!). Once the flames die down, add the grapes and reduced sauce and\ncook for a further 3 minutes. Transfer the quails to a serving platter and\ndrizzle with the sauce. Serve with baguettes.\nNote To prepare the quails, use a large, sharp knife to cut the neck off each\nquail, then cut down either side of the backbone. Remove the backbone.\nOpen the quail out, skin side down, then flatten the bird using firm pressure\nwith the palm of your hand. Using your fingers, pull the ribcage away from\nthe flesh, then carefully, using your fingers and a knife, remove the\nbreastbone, taking care not to rip the skin. Cut the quail in half down the\nbreast, then remove the legs by cutting through the thigh joint. Remove the\nwings from the breasts. Reserve the wings and bones to use in the stock.\n\nChristophe’s crab wok-tossed with basil and\nblack olives\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nI was surprised to see Christophe wok-tossing crab\nwith black olives. I would never have thought to put\nfish sauce, olive oil, white wine, basil and black\nolives in the same dish, but the combination of\nflavours worked beautifully.\nINGREDIENTS\n1 x 1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) live mud crab\n2 tablespoons olive oil\n3 garlic cloves, chopped\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n2 teaspoons sugar\n6 pitted black olives\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) white wine\n1 handful basil leaves\nMETHOD\nTo prepare your crab humanely, put it in the freezer for 1 hour to put it to\nsleep. Remove the upper shell of the crab, reserve the roe, then pick off the\ngills, which look like little fingers, and discard them. Clean the crab under\nrunning water and drain. Place the crab on its stomach and chop it in half\nwith a heavy cleaver. Now chop each half into four pieces, chopping each\n\npiece behind each leg. With the back of the cleaver, gently crack each claw\n— this makes it easier to extract the meat.\nHeat a wok over medium heat, then add the olive oil and garlic and sauté\nfor 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the crab and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add\nthe fish sauce, sugar and olives and stir-fry for a further 2 minutes. Add the\ncrab roe and white wine, then cover and cook over medium heat for 8\nminutes. Add the basil and toss for 30 seconds before serving.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Lamb cutlets cooked in preserved bean curd\nSERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL\nPreserved bean curd is basically tofu that has been\nfermented for over a year in rice wine, salt and chilli.\nA cube of preserved bean curd and steamed rice is an\nextremely tasty meal in itself. You can find preserved\nbean curd in glass jars in Asian markets.\nINGREDIENTS\n6 lamb cutlets, frenched\n12 cherry tomatoes\n12 betel leaves\n1 tablespoon olive oil\npea and Vietnamese mint purée\n3 tablespoons white wine\nMARINADE\n3 tablespoons preserved bean curd\n1 tablespoon fish sauce\n2 teaspoons honey\n6 black peppercorns\n½ teaspoon dried oregano\n½ teaspoon crushed dried bay leaves\nMETHOD\n\nTo make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a mixing bowl. Rub\nthe lamb cutlets with the mixture, then place in a bowl. Cover and place in\nthe fridge to marinate for 2 hours.\nPreheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Wrap each cherry tomato with a\nbetel leaf, making sure the shiny side of the leaf is facing out. Secure with\ntoothpicks.\nHeat an ovenproof frying pan over medium heat, then add the olive oil and\nseal the cutlets for about 1–2 minutes on both sides until browned. Add the\ncherry tomatoes to the pan, then place the pan in the oven and cook the\ncutlets for 3 minutes, or until the lamb is just cooked through but still a little\npink in the middle.\nPlace the lamb cutlets and cherry tomatoes on a platter and serve with the\npea purée. Place the frying pan on the stovetop and deglaze with the white\nwine, then pour the sauce over the lamb.\n\nA journey’s end\nIN MY SEARCH FOR A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF THE\nhistory of Vietnamese cuisine, I have discovered so many more little gems,\nsmall fragmented pieces of people’s lives — a window into a time past.\nI feel so humbled that I have been allowed to listen to and record these\nstories, some from people who are now well into their nineties, who warmly\nwelcomed me into their homes and took me back in time to a Vietnam where\nFrench social etiquette, hierarchy, language, training and education ruled.\nIt is now almost 150 years since the French rule of Vietnam began (and\nalmost fifty years since it ended). The people of Vietnam have so entirely\nintegrated the cooking styles and produce first introduced by the French that\nmost are even unaware of its French origins. To some, the cooking styles and\nknowledge they hold is entirely Vietnamese, something that has been passed\ndown through the generations, and it will be remembered as a family dish. I\nunderstand this, but at the same time the French influences on Vietnamese\ncooking can’t be ignored: the clear consommé broths offered on every street\ncorner, the baguettes, the strong coffee drunk by so many at the start of each\nday, the grinding and steaming of meats to make our delicious cold cuts…\nYet in every technique, every recipe and piece of produce that originated\nfrom the French, I found a story of a Vietnamese person, of a Vietnamese\nfamily and of the country’s rich and spirited history.\n\nBasics\n\nList of Recipes\nDipping fish sauce\nSpring onion oil\nFried garlic and garlic oil\nAnnatto oil\nFried red Asian shallots\nRoasted peanuts\nBeef stock base for pho\nFish stock\nGarlic mayonnaise\nToasted rice powder\nFresh roasted coconut\nPickled carrot\n\nDipping fish sauce\nMAKES ABOUT 250 ML (9 FL OZ/1 CUP)\nINGREDIENTS\n3 tablespoons fish sauce\n3 tablespoons rice vinegar\n2 tablespoons sugar\n2 garlic cloves, chopped\n1 bird’s eye chilli, thinly sliced\n2 tablespoons lime juice\nMETHOD\nCombine 125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) of water, the fish sauce, rice vinegar and\nsugar in a saucepan and place over medium heat. Stir well and cook until\njust before boiling point is reached, then remove the pan from the heat and\nallow to cool.\nTo serve, add the garlic and chilli, then stir in the lime juice. Store, tightly\nsealed in a jar in the fridge, for up to 5 days.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Spring onion oil\nMAKES 250 ML (9 FL OZ/1 CUP)\nINGREDIENTS\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) vegetable oil\n6–8 spring onions (scallions), green part only, thinly sliced\nMETHOD\nPut the oil and spring onions in a saucepan over medium heat. Cook the\nspring onions for about 2 minutes, or until the oil just starts to simmer, then\nremove the pan from the heat and allow to cool. Strain the oil into a jar,\ndiscarding the solids. The spring onion oil will keep for up to 1 week in the\nfridge.\n\nFried garlic and garlic oil\nMAKES 2 TABLESPOONS FRIED GARLIC; 250 ML (9 FL\nOZ/1 CUP) GARLIC OIL\nINGREDIENTS\n250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) vegetable oil\n6 garlic cloves, finely chopped\nMETHOD\nPour the oil into a wok and heat to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of bread\ndropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Add the garlic to the oil and fry\nfor 45–60 seconds, or until the garlic is golden, then strain through a metal\nsieve and place on kitchen paper to dry. Be careful not to overcook the\ngarlic in the oil, as it continues to cook once it is removed from the wok.\nReserve the garlic oil. Store the fried garlic in an airtight container for up to\n4 days. The garlic oil will keep for up to 1 week in the fridge.\n\nAnnatto oil\nMAKES 125 ML (4 FL OZ/½ CUP)\nINGREDIENTS\n125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) vegetable oil\n1 tablespoon annatto seeds\nMETHOD\nPut the oil and annatto seeds in a saucepan over low heat. Heat just until the\noil begins to simmer; don’t overheat or the seeds will turn black. Remove\nthe pan from the heat and set aside to cool, then strain the oil into a jar. The\nannatto oil will keep for up to 1 week in the fridge.\n\nFried red Asian shallots\nMAKES 100 G (3½ OZ/1 CUP)\nINGREDIENTS\n1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) vegetable oil\n200 g (7 oz) red Asian shallots,\nMETHOD\nPour the oil into a wok and heat to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of bread\ndropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Fry the shallots in small batches\nfor 30–60 seconds, or until they turn golden brown and crisp, then remove\nwith a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towel. The fried shallots are best eaten\nfreshly fried, but will keep in an airtight container for up to 2 days.\n\nRoasted peanuts\nMAKES 250 G (9 OZ)\nINGREDIENTS\n250 g (9 oz) unsalted raw, peeled peanuts\nMETHOD\nPut the peanuts in a dry wok and stir–fry over medium heat until they are\ncooked to a light brown colour. Remove and allow to cool. If a recipe asks\nfor crushed roasted peanuts, this can be done using a mortar and pestle until\ncoarsely ground. Store the roasted nuts in an airtight container for up to 2\nweeks.\n\nBeef stock base for pho\nMAKES 15 LITRES (525 FL OZ)\nINGREDIENTS\n4 beef shin bones\n1 whole chicken, cut into quarters\n2 tablespoons table salt\n350 g (12 oz) dried ginger (from Asian supermarkets)\n50 g (1¾ oz) cinnamon stick\n12 star anise\n6 cloves\n220 g (7¾ oz/1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar\n160 g (5¾ oz/½ cup) rock salt\n300 ml (10½ fl oz) fish sauce\n150 g (5½ oz) ginger, unpeeled,\ncut in half and chargrilled\n4 large onions, chargrilled in their skins\nMETHOD\nPut the shin bones and chicken in a large stockpot and cover with cold\nwater. Add the table salt and leave for 2 hours. This will clean the meat and\nbones. After 2 hours, discard this water and scrub the shin bones under cold\nwater. Return the bones and chicken to the pot and cover with 15 litres (525\nfl oz) of cold water.\nWrap the dried ginger, cinnamon, star anise and cloves in muslin\n(cheesecloth), add to the pot and bring the water to the boil over high heat.\nConstantly skim the impurities from the surface as the water comes to the", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour, continuing to\nskim. After 1 hour, add the sugar, rock salt and fish sauce to the broth and\nsimmer for another 2 hours, frequently skimming.\nFill the pot with cold water to get it back to 15 litres (525 fl oz) and return\nit to the simmer. Cover with a lid, reduce the heat to low and cook\novernight. The broth should barely be moving. The next morning, pass the\nbroth through a double layer of muslin into another pan. Wrap the\nchargrilled ginger and onions (with skin removed) in muslin, add to the pan\nand cook for a further 2 hours. Remove the muslin bag and allow the stock\nto cool. Portion into smaller quantities and refrigerate or freeze until\nrequired.\n\nFish stock\nMAKES 4 LITRES (140 FL OZ/16 CUPS)\nINGREDIENTS\n2 kg (4 lb 8 oz) white fish bones (such as snapper or cod)\n1 large leek, trimmed and sliced\n4 cm (1½ inch) piece of ginger, sliced\n4 garlic cloves\n2 kaffir lime (makrut) leaves\n1 bunch coriander (cilantro), stems and roots only\nMETHOD\nPlace the fish bones in a large saucepan or stockpot with 4 litres (140 fl\noz/16 cups) of water and bring to the boil. Skim off any impurities, then add\nthe remaining ingredients. Return to the boil, then reduce the heat and\nsimmer for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve and allow to cool. Store\nin the fridge for up to 3 days, or freeze until required.\n\nGarlic mayonnaise\nMAKES 250 ML (9 FL OZ/1 CUP)\nINGREDIENTS\n3 garlic cloves\n2 egg yolks\n1 tablespoon lemon juice\n¼ teaspoon salt\n¼ teaspoon finely ground white pepper\n200 ml (7 fl oz) vegetable oil\n50 ml (1¾ fl oz) light olive oil\nMETHOD\nThis quantity of mayonnaise is best made in a bowl using a whisk. Make\nsure the bowl is secure on the work surface; sit the bowl on a folded tea\ntowel so it doesn’t move around.\nUsing a mortar and pestle, bash the garlic cloves into a paste. In a bowl,\ncombine the garlic paste, egg yolks, lemon juice, salt and white pepper and\nwhisk well. Combine the vegetable oil and olive oil and add it to the egg\nyolk mixture, adding only a few drops of oil at a time, whisking slowly as\nyou add the oil. Once you have added about 50 ml (1¾ fl oz) of oil, you can\ncontinue to add the oil in one slow, steady stream, whisking slowly, until\nthick and emulsified.\nPlace the mayonnaise in a container, cover with a lid or plastic wrap and\nrefrigerate for up to 1 week.\n\nToasted rice powder\nMAKES 200 G (7 OZ)\nINGREDIENTS\n200 g (7 oz/1 cup) jasmine rice\nMETHOD\nPut the rice in a dry wok and stir-fry over medium heat until it is fragrant\nand toasted. Allow to cool, then transfer to a mortar and, using a pestle,\npound to a fine powder. Store in an airtight container for 2 weeks.\n\nfresh roasted coconut\nYIELDS ABOUT 300 G (10½ OZ) FLESH\nINGREDIENTS\n1 fresh brown coconut\nMETHOD\nPreheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Poke each of the three circular\nholes of the coconut to find the softest one, then, using a small knife or a\nmetal skewer, pierce the soft hole. Drain off the juice and discard.\nTap the coconut with the back of a heavy cleaver until a palm-sized piece\nof the shell breaks off. Continue tapping around the circumference of the\ncoconut until it breaks apart. Place the broken shells on a baking tray and\nbake for 10 minutes (this will help loosen the coconut flesh from the shell).\nRemove the coconut shells from the oven and allow to cool.\nScrape out the coconut meat with a knife, then using a potato peeler,\nremove any remaining brown skin from the meat. Using a mandolin or a\nvery sharp knife, finely slice the coconut meat. Place the sliced coconut on\nthe baking tray and return to the oven for 10 minutes, or until lightly\ntoasted. Store in an airtight container in the cupboard for up to 2 days.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Pickled carrot\nMAKES 250 G (9 OZ)\nINGREDIENTS\n185 ml (6 fl oz/¾ cup) white vinegar\n100 g (3½ oz) sugar\n1 teaspoon salt\n200 g (7 oz) carrots, peeled\nMETHOD\nPut the vinegar, sugar and salt in a saucepan over high heat and bring to the\nboil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove the pan from the heat and set\naside to cool.\nCoarsely grate the carrots and add to a pickling jar. Pour over the cooled\npickling liquid and then leave to mature overnight at room temperature.\n\nGlossary\nAnnatto seeds\nAnnatto seeds come from the achiote pod, which looks similar to a\nrambutan fruit. When ripe, the pods split open to reveal around fifty annatto\nseeds. Annatto seeds are slightly sweet yet peppery with a hint of nutmeg,\nand when infused with oil impart a golden saffron colour to food. Annatto\nseeds and oil are sold in Asian and Indian food stores. If you can only find\nthe seeds, these can be used to make the oil.\nAsian celery\nAlso called Chinese or Vietnamese celery, these have thin, hollow stalks\nand a stronger taste and smell than ordinary celery. Use in stir–fries and\nsoups or blanch and use in salads. Buy bunches with firm stems.\nBitter melon\nSimilar to a pale green cucumber but covered in a bumpy skin. Blanch the\nflesh in boiling water or degorge before use to reduce bitterness.\nBlack cardamom\nThis is also known as brown cardamom but should not be confused with\ngreen cardamom, as they are completely different in flavour and intensity.\nBlack cardamoms are dried pods, around 3 cm (1¼ inches) in length, which\nare filled with small seeds. The seeds are then crushed or ground before use,\nwhich imparts an intense smoky, earthy flavour to a dish. Black cardamom\ncan be found in Asian and Indian spice stores.\nChinese red food colouring\nChinese red food colouring is sold in Asian food stores, in either liquid or\npowder form. It is used to colour pork, chicken, quail and duck, giving the\nskin a ‘lucky red’ colour.\nCoconut palm shoots\nCoconut palm shoots are found at the very tip of the coconut palm. They are\nmade up of several young palm leaves that are still white and very tender.\nCoconut palm shoots are similar in texture to bamboo shoots and can be\n\neaten raw, cooked in soups or stir-fried. They are available from specialist\nAsian food stores. If unavailable, use tinned ones.\nCoconut water\nYoung coconut water is the liquid found in young green coconuts. These\ngreen coconuts are available fresh or the liquid is sold in tins (sometimes\nlabelled as coconut juice); both are available from Asian food stores. Try to\nsource fresh young coconut water if you can, as the tinned version has\nadded sugar.\nDried mung beans\nDried green mung beans with the skins removed are yellow. Buy peeled\nmung beans from Asian food stores. They need to be soaked, then are\nboiled or steamed.\nDried rice vermicelli noodles\nWhen looking for dried rice vermicelli, don’t mistake them for dried\ncellophane (glass) noodles, as these are made from mung beans not rice. I\nprefer to use the Golden Swallow brand as I find that they don’t break as\neasily when cooked.\nDried shrimp\nDried shrimp are shrimp that have been sun–dried for 2–3 days until they\nshrink to the size of your fingernail. There are many varieties, which you\ncan use as flavourings in soups, salads, stir-fries and sauces. The flavour is\nstrong, and they should be soaked for at least 20 minutes before use.\nAvailable from your Asian food store, in the dry goods section.\nFermented anchovy sauce\nKnown in Vietnamese as mam nem, fermented anchovy sauce can be found\nin glass bottles at your local Asian food store. Like fish sauce, it is made\nfrom fermented anchovies, however fish sauce is strained while fermented\nanchovy sauce uses the whole fermented fish. Fermented anchovy sauce is\nvery pungent and definitely an acquired taste, but when combined with\nother ingredients it makes quite a pleasant dipping sauce. Pour unused\nanchovy sauce into an airtight container and place in the fridge for no\nlonger than a month.", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Fish sauce\nA pungent, salty liquid used widely in Vietnamese cooking as a condiment\nand flavouring. When using fish sauce as a dipping sauce, use a good–\nquality fish sauce such as Viet Huong or Phu Quoc brand. When using it in\nstocks and marinades, use Squid brand.\nGalangal\nSimilar in appearance and preparation to its close relative ginger, galangal\nis slightly pinker in colour and has a distinctive peppery flavour. It tends to\nbe a bit woodier than ginger, so you need to grate or chop it finely before\nuse. Choose galangal with the pinker stems, as these are fresher than the\nbrowner ones.\nHerbs\nVietnamese cooking is renowned for its use of fresh herbs. Look for them in\nyour local Vietnamese or Asian market, as there is really no substitute for\ntheir unique flavour and aroma.\nAsian basil (rau que or hung que): Also known as Thai basil or Asian\nsweet basil, this has purplish stems, green leaves and a sweet aniseed aroma\nand flavour.\nPerilla (tia to): This broad–leafed herb is related to mint, and can be red or\npurplish green in colour. It is similar to Japanese shiso.\nRice paddy herb (ngo om): This aromatic small–leafed herb grows in rice\nfields. It has a citrusy aroma and flavour, and is used in soups or seafood\ndishes.\nSawtooth coriander (ngo gai): Also known as sawtooth herb or long\ncoriander, this herb has slender, long green leaves with serrated edges. It\nhas a strong coriander–like flavour.\nVietnamese mint (rau ram): This herb has narrow pointed and pungent–\ntasting leaves.\nKaffir lime (makrut) leaves\nThese fragrant uniquely double–shaped leaves are added to soups and\nsalads to give them a wonderful aroma and tangy flavour. Kaffir leaves, also\n\ncalled makrut leaves, are sold fresh and dried from Asian markets. I use\nfresh leaves in my recipes.\nLemongrass stems\nTo prepare lemongrass stems, cut off and discard the woody root, peel off\nthe tough outer skin, and then use only the white part of the lemongrass\nstem. Don’t throw the green tips away; these can be boiled in water to make\na refreshing lemongrass tea.\nPandan leaves\nAlso called pandanus leaves, these long, flat emerald–green leaves are used\nfor the wonderful fragrance they give to dishes, both sweet and savoury. Tie\nthe leaves into a knot so they easily fit into the pot, and remove before\nserving. The fresh leaves are sold in bundles from your Asian market.\nPeanuts\nAn important ingredient in Vietnamese cooking, peanuts are used in sauces,\nsalads or as a garnish. The peanuts I use in my recipes are shelled and\nskinned raw peanuts, which are then roasted. Once opened, store the raw\npeanuts in the fridge and use within 3 months.\nPickled chilli, ground\nThis is made with fresh chillies, which are ground and pickled with garlic,\nsalt, sugar and white vinegar. Pickled ground chilli can be found at your\nlocal Asian food store. Look for the jars with ‘Ot Tuong’ written on the\nlabel.\nPreserved bean curd\nAlso called fermented bean curd, these are cubes of bean curd (tofu) that\nhave been preserved in rice wine, and you can find different varieties such\nas white or red bean curd marinated in sesame oil or chilli. Buy in jars from\nAsian food stores.\nRice flour\nGround from long–grain rice, these flours are used to make noodles, rice\ncakes, food wrappers and Vietnamese baguettes. Don’t confuse ordinary\nrice flour with glutinous rice flour, as they are different. Glutinous rice flour", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "is sweeter and is made from glutinous short–grain rice; the flour turns firm\nand sticky when cooked.\nSambal oelek\nSambal oelek is an Indonesian paste made from ground chillies, salt and\nlemongrass. It is mild in spice, so it adds heat without altering the flavour\ntoo much. It can be found in jars in Asian food stores.\nShaoxing rice wine\nAlso called Chinese rice wine, this is made from rice, millet and Shaoxing’s\nlocal water. Aged wines are served warm as a drink in China, and the\nyounger wines are used in cooking.\nShrimp paste\nMade from fermented shrimp that are ground, salted and dried, then bottled\nor compressed into a hard block. While it does have a very strong aroma,\nshrimp paste adds depth of flavour and fragrance to your dish. Buy shrimp\npaste from your Asian food store. I prefer the soft variety, not the hard one,\nand I like to use Lee Kum Kee brand.\nSnails (fresh)\nTo prepare snails, leave the snails in their shells and soak them in salted\nwater for 10 minutes before rinsing under cold water. Repeat this process\nthree times. Set aside. Snails are available fresh from your local fine food\nsupplier, and may have to be ordered in advance.\nSoy sauce\nSoy sauce is a naturally brewed liquid made from fermented soya beans\nmixed with wheat, water and salt. Dark soy sauce is less salty, thicker and\ndarker than light soy sauce, because it has been fermented for longer. Light\nsoy sauce has a light, delicate flavour, but is saltier than dark soy, and is\noften used as a dipping sauce. It may be labelled as superior soy sauce or\nsimply as soy sauce.\nSpices, roasting\nAs spices are different in shape, weight and colour, I like to roast my spices\nseparately to ensure that each spice variety is roasted evenly and not over–\n\nroasted or burnt. Place the spice in a dry frying pan and heat for the time\nspecified in the recipe, or until fragrant.\nSriracha hot chilli sauce\nSriracha is a hot chilli sauce named after the traditional chilli sauces from\nthe town of Si Racha, in Central Thailand. It tends to be a little sweeter and\nthicker than other chilli sauces. Sriracha sauce is used in many Asian\ndishes, as a condiment for Vietnamese noodle soups and stir–fries. It is sold\nin Asian food stores.\nTamarind\nThis is used as a souring agent, adding tartness to dishes. Buy tamarind pulp\npackaged as a wet block, then cut off a little from the block and mix it with\nhot water. Use your hands to mash the pulp up, as mashing it with a fork\nwon’t do the job very effectively.\nTurmeric (fresh)\nUnlike other members of the ginger family, fresh turmeric is pleasantly\nmild and does not have a sharp bite. Its flesh is deep orange in colour and it\nhas an orange–tinged beige–brown skin. When added to foods, it imparts a\nbright yellow colour. Be sure to wear gloves when working with raw\nturmeric, as it will stain your hands for a week.\n\nIndex\nA\nannatto oil\n     Dalat artichoke and pork rib soup\nAsian shallots, fried red\n     asparagus wok-tossed with Asian mushrooms\n     chargrilled beef and asparagus mustard rolls\n     quail eggs with asparagus\n     verrine of eggplant, asparagus and Asian mushrooms with goat’s\ncurd\nB\n     baguette with steamed pork balls\n     chargrilled pork skewers in Vietnamese baguette\n     Vietnamese baguette\n     beef and lemongrass skewers\n     beef noodle soup\n     beef sirloin wok-tossed with garlic and green peppercorns\n     beef slow-braised in young coconut water\n     beef stock base for pho\n     beef tongue slow-braised in red wine\n     chargrilled beef and asparagus mustard rolls\n     citrus-cured wagyu sirloin\n     Hanoi beef soft noodle rolls\n     meatballs steamed in caul fat\n     slow-cooked oxtail and beef brisket in aromatic spices\n     warm beef and watercress salad\n     crab steamed in beer\nC", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "cabbage, wok-tossed with garlic\ncaramelised frogs’ legs\ncaramelised pork belly with quail eggs\n     chicken and pork liver pâté\n     chicken slow-braised in green pepper\n     coq au vin\n     meatballs steamed in caul fat\n     steamed Vietnamese mint-stuffed chicken\n     snails cooked in lemongrass and chilli\nchocolate truffles, fried, with pink pepper\nChristophe’s crab wok-tossed with basil and black olives\ncitrus-cured sardine salad\ncitrus-cured wagyu sirloin\n     beef slow-braised in young coconut water\n     fresh roasted coconut\n     quail cooked in orange and coconut water\ncoq au vin\nCousin Khanh’s lemongrass and kaffir lime crème brûlée\n     Christophe’s crab wok-tossed with basil and black olives\n     crab farci\n     crab steamed in beer\n     green mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab\ncrème brûlée, Cousin Khanh’s lemongrass and kaffir lime\ncrème caramel\ncrisp rice flour crepe with lobster and enoki mushroom\ncrispy frogs’ legs\nD\nDalat\nDalat artichoke and pork rib soup\nDalat Palace\n     Cousin Khanh’s lemongrass and kaffir lime crème brûlée\n     crème caramel\n\nfried chocolate truffles with pink pepper\n     meringue et passion\n     pandan and ginger panna cotta\ndipping fish sauce\n   �� green tea-smoked duck\nE\n     caramelised pork belly with quail eggs\n     pork omelette\nF\n     dipping fish sauce\n     fish stock\n     pan-fried salmon in orange sauce\n     pan-fried sea bass with bitter melon and pea purée\n     raw kingfish with passionfruit, lemongrass and Vietnamese herbs\n     steamed Murray cod with passionfruit sauce\n     turmeric and lemongrass mulloway steamed in banana leaf\n     caramelised frogs’ legs\n     crispy frogs’ legs\nG\n     beef sirloin wok-tossed with garlic and green peppercorns\n     chargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green papaya\n     fried garlic and garlic oil\n     garlic mayonnaise\n     lobster tail wok-tossed with garlic and black pepper\n     wok-tossed cabbage with garlic\ngreen mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab\ngreen tea-smoked duck\nH\n\nHanoi\nHanoi beef soft noodle rolls\nheart of palm and tomato salad with Vietnamese herbs\nhoney\nL\nlamb cutlets cooked in preserved bean curd\nLaurent’s quail flambé\n     crisp rice flour crepe with lobster and enoki mushroom\n     lobster tail wok-tossed with garlic and black pepper\nM\n     green mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab\n     pig’s ear and green mango salad\n     prawn, mango and snow pea salad\nmeatballs steamed in caul fat\nmeringue et passion\n     asparagus wok-tossed with Asian mushrooms\n     crisp rice flour crepe with lobster and enoki mushroom\n     verrine of eggplant, asparagus and Asian mushrooms with goat’s\ncurd\nmussels tossed with butter, crisp garlic and Asian basil\nmustard rolls, chargrilled beef and asparagus\nN\n     beef noodle soup\n     Hanoi beef soft noodle rolls\nO\n     annatto oil\n     fried garlic and garlic oil\n\nspring onion oil\noxtail and beef brisket, slow-cooked in aromatic spices\nP\npandan and ginger panna cotta\n     raw kingfish with passionfruit, lemongrass and Vietnamese herbs\n     steamed Murray cod with passionfruit sauce\n     chicken and pork liver pâté\n     beef sirloin wok-tossed with garlic and green peppercorns\n     chicken slow-braised in green pepper\n     fried chocolate truffles with pink pepper\n     lobster tail wok-tossed with garlic and black pepper\n     beef stock base for\npickled carrot\npig’s ear and green mango salad\n     baguette with steamed pork balls\n     caramelised pork belly with quail eggs\n     chargrilled pork skewers in Vietnamese baguette\n     chicken and pork liver pâté\n     Dalat artichoke and pork rib soup\n     pig’s ear and green mango salad\n     pork omelette\n     red braised pork belly\n     chargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green papaya\n     pan-fried cinnamon prawns\n     prawn, mango and snow pea salad\n     pumpkin flowers stuffed with prawns and dill\npreserved bean curd\npumpkin flowers stuffed with prawns and dill\npumpkin soup with aromatic cream\nQ", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "Laurent’s quail flambé\n     quail cooked in orange and coconut water\nR\nrabbit in red wine\nred Asian shallots, fried\nred braised pork belly\nS\nSaigon\n     green mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab\n     heart of palm and tomato salad with Vietnamese herbs\n     pig’s ear and green mango salad\n     prawn, mango and snow pea salad\n     warm beef and watercress salad\n     pan-fried salmon in orange sauce\nscallops chargrilled in spring onion oil\n     chargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green papaya\n     Christophe’s crab wok-tossed with basil and black olives\n     crab farci\n     crab steamed in beer\n     crisp rice flour crepe with lobster and enoki mushroom\n     green mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab\n     lobster tail wok-tossed with garlic and black pepper\n     mussels tossed with butter, crisp garlic and Asian basil\n     pan-fried cinnamon prawns\n     pan-fried stuffed squid\n     prawn, mango and snow pea salad\n     pumpkin flowers stuffed with prawns and dill\n     scallops chargrilled in spring onion oil\n     beef and lemongrass skewers\n     chargrilled pork skewers in Vietnamese baguette\n\nsnails cooked in lemongrass and chilli\n     snails in coriander and Asian basil\n     beef noodle soup\n     Dalat artichoke and pork rib soup\n     pumpkin soup with aromatic cream\nspring onion oil\n     beef stock base for pho\n     fish stock\nT\ntoasted rice powder\n     heart of palm and tomato salad with Vietnamese herbs\nturmeric and lemongrass mulloway steamed in banana leaf\nV\nverrine of eggplant, asparagus and Asian mushrooms with goat’s curd\nVietnamese baguette\n     chargrilled pork skewers in\nW\n     beef tongue slow-braised in red wine\n     coq au vin\n   �� rabbit in red wine\n\nPublished in 2011 by Murdoch Books Pty Limited\nMurdoch Books Australia\nPier 8/9\n23 Hickson Road\nMillers Point NSW 2000\nPhone: +61 (0) 2 8220 2000\nFax: +61 (0) 2 8220 2558\nwww.murdochbooks.com.au\ninfo@murdochbooks.com.au\nMurdoch Books UK Limited\nErico House, 6th Floor \n93–99 Upper Richmond Road\nPutney, London SW15 2TG\nPhone: +44 (0) 20 8785 5995\nFax: +44 (0) 20 8785 5985\nwww.murdochbooks.co.uk\ninfo@murdochbooks.co.uk\nFor Corporate Orders & Custom Publishing contact Noel\nHammond, National Business Development Manager\nPublisher: Kylie Walker\nDesigner: Hugh Ford\nPhotographers: Alan Benson, Suzanna Boyd.\nFood Stylist: Suzanna Boyd\nEditor: Kim Rowney\nFood Editor: Leanne Kitchen\nProject Manager: Livia Caiazzo \nProduction Controller: Joan Beal\nText copyright © Luke Nguyen 2011\nThe moral right of the author has been asserted. \nDesign copyright © Murdoch Books Pty Limited 2011\n\nPhotography copyright © Alan Benson and Suzanna Boyd\n2011\nAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be\nreproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any\nform or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,\nrecording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of\nthe publisher.\nNational Library of Australia Cataloguing–in–Publication\nentry\nAuthor: Nguyen, Luke.\nTitle: Indochine, the collection [electronic resource]:\nbaguettes and bánh mì, finding France in Vietnam / Luke\nNguyen.\nISBN: 9781742668802 (ebook)\nNotes: Includes index.\nSubjects: Cooking, Vietnamese.\nCooking, French.\nCooking--Vietnam.\nVietnam--Description and travel.\nDewey Number: 641.59597\nA catalogue record for this book is available from the British\nLibrary.\nThe Publisher, author and stylist would like to thank An Lam\nSaigon River Private Residence, Xu Restaurant & Bar, The\nTemple Club, Indochine Restaurant, Dalat Palace, Nam Phan,\nBrothers Café, Morning Glory, Nam Long, Villa Hoa Su, La\nVerticale, Hotel Sofitel Legend Metropole, Green Tangerine\nand 6 on Sixteen for allowing us to photograph the recipes in\ntheir wonderful establishments and for the loan of props and\ncooking equipment.\nIMPORTANT: Those who might be at risk from the effects of\nsalmonella poisoning (the elderly, pregnant women, young", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "children and those suffering from immune deficiency diseases)\nshould consult their doctor with any concerns about eating raw\neggs.\nOVEN GUIDE: You may find cooking times vary depending\non the oven you are using. For fan-forced ovens, as a general\nrule, set the oven temperature to 20°C (35°F) lower than\nindicated in the recipe.\n\nALSO AVAILABLE", "source": "Indochine (Luke Nguyen) (Z-Library).pdf", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "en"}
+{"text": "le\nmal le\nbien\nBouddha Alexandre Yersin un autre\nBouddha fêté comme un bouddha un dieu\npacifique et\nregretté curieux voisinage tous les mois\nà chaque Lune depuis 50 années depuis le\njour de sa mort ces vietnamiens de la\nrégion de niatrang sur la côte d'anam se\nréunissent et chantent en son honneur il\nle\nV la cérémonie réveille le temple\nbouddhiste qui n'existe que pour lui le\ndieu blanc le vieux savant français que\ntous dans cette salle ont vu connu et\nadmiré\ncontrairement à ses augustes voisins le\nbien le mal et les autres le docteur\nYersin est natif du canton de veau en\nSuisse puis naturalisé et mort français\nil est arrivé là vers la fin du siècle\ndernier un drôle de bonhomme un peu\nSaint-Vincent de Paul un peu Tintin\nreporteur avec une curiosité dévorante\njamais satisfaite d'abord c'est un\nsavant élève de pasteur disciple de rou\nil fuit la France parce que\nl'enseignement l'ennuie devient médecin\ndes Messageries maritimes mais surtout\ndécouvre niatrang une plage et un\nvillage qu'il décrit dans l'une des\ncentaines de lettres qu'il adresse à sa\nmère comme un journal une chronique du\nVietnam de ce\n[Musique]\ntemps-là le premier point où l'on\ns'arrête après Saigon et niatrang le\npays est très montagneux et paraît bien\npittoresque le tigre est pulule nous\navons visité la ville ou plutôt le\nvillage anamite et le marché il y a là\nune misère comme je n'en ai encore\njamais vu les indigènes préfèrent ne\ntravailler que juste pour vivre car\ns'ils amassent quelques sous de suite\nles mandarins ou les impôts français les\nleur arrach c'est\nnavrant bien que misérable elle lui\nplaît cette ville il s'y installe et\nsoigne pas longtemps la curiosité encore\nil se fait explorateur fouille les cri\net les deltas se bat contre les bandits\ndécouvre enfin la montagne\nanamite il y a là un plateau dénudé de\nprès de 400 km car au milieu duquel\ns'élève une montagne je crois la région\nsaine parce qu'elle est dénudée il fait\nune température moyenne de 18°gr au\nprintemps c'est délicieux on croirait\nles Alpes pendant\nl'été de cette découverte est né une\nville\nd'AT une vraie ville avec son cortège de\nbâtiments administratifs et de soins\ndont bien sûr un Institut\nPasteur ici c'est le lycée le lycée hier\nsain bien sûr jamais débaptisé même au\nplus fort des luttes\n[Musique]\n[Applaudissements]\npolitiques jeunes filles doivent savoir\nqui était hier car c'est un héros\nvietnamien quelques années avant la fin\ndu siècle dernier il a fait une\ndécouverte une énorme découverte de\ncelle qui marque la vie du\nmonde car la peste éclate à Hong\nKong bactériologue au nom de l'Institut\nPasteur la peste est encore le fléo\nterrible divin triomphant qui accumule\nles massacres depuis\n[Musique]\nl'antiquitéjourd'i ise les chercheurs\nune mission japonaise rivale lui\ninterdit même les lieux de soin il faut\nruser je suis parvenu à obtenir de\nquelques matelot anglais qui ont pour\nmission de faire enterrer les cadavres\nde la ville qu'il me laisse enlever le\nbubon des mort avant qu'on les porte en\nterre quelques piastres judicieusement\ndistribué pour chaque bubon que je\npourrais enlever ont eu un effet\nimmédiat il isole le bacile lui le\npremier avec de pauvres moyens un peu\ncomme trouvait aujourd'hui un remède au\ncancer ou au sida depuis cette pauvre\npaillote où il\nvit avec le bassile il faut fabriquer du\nsérum pour lutter contre la maladie\ninjecter la peste dans le sang d'animaux\ntrès résistants pour qu'il produise des\nanticorps ensuite transfuser ce sang aux\nhumains la peste recule et frais\n[Musique]\nmoins l'toit de l'Institut\nson toujours imposants un beau bâtiment\nqui épte encore les visiteurs son uvre\nsa passion quelques milliers de mètres\nCarr solide et fonctionnel comme un défi\nau myas au\nvirus il fonctionne toujours comme il\npeut s'attache plus au soins qu'à la\nrecherche et les laboratoires n'ont pas\nchangé depuis 50\nans après leur victoire les communistes\navaient d'abord ignoré ignoré mais\njamais nié comme la plupart des autres\nsavants ou chercheurs amenés par la\ncolonisation aujourd'hui il le vénère\nd'ù cet\nhôtel d'où ce musée bric à brac tout est\nlà tout ce qui reste de 50 années de vie\net de recherche y compris des\ncollections intactes de livre d'aventure\nou de roment policier\ntout est là encore des papiers des\nphotos des dossier écrit de sa main\ntoute sa vie\nh soigne étudie les malformations le\nrachitisme se fait photographe mais\nsurtout il bâtit devient éleveur il lui\nfaut un troupeau jamais assez\nnombreux on me demande du sérum de tout\ncôtés ement je n'en ai pas le Japon m'a\ntélégraphié pour me demander 4000\ndoses le conseil municipal de bombé\nm'envoie télégram sur télégram je fais\nfaire une écurie en brique pour chevaux\net quelques paillotes tous ces travaux\nl'achat des jument d'un troupeau de bœuf\nm'ont coûté beaucoup plus cher que je\nn'aurais\ncru il défriche plante encore investit\ntout son argent mais ce n'est pas assez\nil faut en gagner plus il importe des\nEva aujourd'hui l'une des principales\nrichesses du Vietnam importe aussi la BR\nqui soignera des génération de paysans\ncontre le\npaludisme et puis il s'installe dans\ncette maison dans les champ\nmon idée c'est d'ériger une statue de\nHin à cet endroit précis dans cette\norientation où sont plantés les arbres\nqui sauvent les\nvies ce sera un endroit\nhistorique cet endroit était auparavant\nle lieu où était fabriqué le médicament\nvoilà c'est cela mon\nidée il faut battre la maladie aussi\nvite que possible\nparticiper à cette course contre la\nmontre un laborantin il finit sa vie\ndans la misère riche de souvenir riche\nd'amour surt la\npopulation tout tout le\nmondeend T les personnes de la province\nde\ncanois bien\ncomme on le prend tout le monde le prend\ncomme on grand papa comme on grand papa\ncomment expliquez-vous sa solitude il\nm'a dit comme ça mon enfant\nsi je je je je veux une je veux avoir\nune\nfemme je perd la moitié de ma vie ind\nque per la moitié de sa vie il veut\npasser toute sa vie à la\nscience à la à la recherche\n[Musique]\ntu me demandes si je prends goût à la\npratique médicale oui et non j'ai\nbeaucoup de plaisir à soigner ceux qui\nviennent me demander conseils mais je ne\nvoudrais pas faire de la médecine un\nmétier c'est-à-dire que je ne pourrais\njamais demander à un malade de payer\npour les soins que j'aurais pu lui\ndonner je considère la médecine comme un\nsacerdoce demander de l'argent pour\nsoigner un malade c'est un peu lui dire\nla bourse ou la vie voilà des idées qui\nne sont pas je le sais partagé par tous\nmes confrères mais enfin ce sont les\nmiennes et je crois que j'aurais bien de\nla peine à les\n[Musique]\nabandonner quand il ne cultive pas\nYersin vit au milieu des pêcheurs il\nsurveille les marais s'inquiète des\ntyphons dont il avertit le voisinage il\naime les gens simples puis les\nmondanités les honneurs peut-être pour\ncela qu'on l' peut oublié ici même sur\ncette pointe où était construite sa\nmaison et où trône maintenant un hôtel\npour policiers en vacances la plupart\ndes villageois\nl'ignor vous savez qui était hier\nd'institut\npasteur grave sûrement Pasin se moquait\nde la notoriété n'avait même pas\nprotesté lorsqu'un autre s'était\napproprié la découverte du bassque de la\npeste jamais un reflet d'amertume dans\nses lettres seul le souci presque\nobsessionnelle de l'avenir de l'avenir\ndes\nautres je suis en train de préparer\ndemande d'augmentation de terrain pour\nma concession je n'avais que 10 hectares\nj'en voudrais 600 l'écart est assez\nconsidérable et il est probable que je\nn'arriverai jamais à mettre en culture\nun pareil terrain mais il faut prévoir\n[Musique]\nl'avenir il a réussi pourtant tout a été\nmise en culture des milliers d'hectares\nil a fallu la guerre pour détruire le\ndomaine\n[Musique]", "source": "[French (auto-generated)] Alexandre Yersin, le héros seul face à la Peste (Indochine) [DownSub.com].txt", "domain": "am_thuc", "language": "vi"}