The full dataset viewer is not available (click to read why). Only showing a preview of the rows.
The dataset generation failed because of a cast error
Error code: DatasetGenerationCastError
Exception: DatasetGenerationCastError
Message: An error occurred while generating the dataset
All the data files must have the same columns, but at some point there are 1 new columns ({'text'}) and 5 missing columns ({'input', 'instruction', 'domain', 'output', 'language'}).
This happened while the json dataset builder was generating data using
hf://datasets/jakeveo05/gpt-knowledge-base/training_ready/pretrain_gpt.jsonl (at revision 7dacadeb4cccf4c1f90ba5fed3bd83d6e3b15b08)
Please either edit the data files to have matching columns, or separate them into different configurations (see docs at https://hf.co/docs/hub/datasets-manual-configuration#multiple-configurations)
Traceback: Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/usr/local/lib/python3.12/site-packages/datasets/builder.py", line 1831, in _prepare_split_single
writer.write_table(table)
File "/usr/local/lib/python3.12/site-packages/datasets/arrow_writer.py", line 714, in write_table
pa_table = table_cast(pa_table, self._schema)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
File "/usr/local/lib/python3.12/site-packages/datasets/table.py", line 2272, in table_cast
return cast_table_to_schema(table, schema)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
File "/usr/local/lib/python3.12/site-packages/datasets/table.py", line 2218, in cast_table_to_schema
raise CastError(
datasets.table.CastError: Couldn't cast
text: string
to
{'instruction': Value('string'), 'input': Value('string'), 'output': Value('string'), 'domain': Value('string'), 'language': Value('string')}
because column names don't match
During handling of the above exception, another exception occurred:
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/src/services/worker/src/worker/job_runners/config/parquet_and_info.py", line 1339, in compute_config_parquet_and_info_response
parquet_operations = convert_to_parquet(builder)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
File "/src/services/worker/src/worker/job_runners/config/parquet_and_info.py", line 972, in convert_to_parquet
builder.download_and_prepare(
File "/usr/local/lib/python3.12/site-packages/datasets/builder.py", line 894, in download_and_prepare
self._download_and_prepare(
File "/usr/local/lib/python3.12/site-packages/datasets/builder.py", line 970, in _download_and_prepare
self._prepare_split(split_generator, **prepare_split_kwargs)
File "/usr/local/lib/python3.12/site-packages/datasets/builder.py", line 1702, in _prepare_split
for job_id, done, content in self._prepare_split_single(
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
File "/usr/local/lib/python3.12/site-packages/datasets/builder.py", line 1833, in _prepare_split_single
raise DatasetGenerationCastError.from_cast_error(
datasets.exceptions.DatasetGenerationCastError: An error occurred while generating the dataset
All the data files must have the same columns, but at some point there are 1 new columns ({'text'}) and 5 missing columns ({'input', 'instruction', 'domain', 'output', 'language'}).
This happened while the json dataset builder was generating data using
hf://datasets/jakeveo05/gpt-knowledge-base/training_ready/pretrain_gpt.jsonl (at revision 7dacadeb4cccf4c1f90ba5fed3bd83d6e3b15b08)
Please either edit the data files to have matching columns, or separate them into different configurations (see docs at https://hf.co/docs/hub/datasets-manual-configuration#multiple-configurations)Need help to make the dataset viewer work? Make sure to review how to configure the dataset viewer, and open a discussion for direct support.
instruction
string | input
string | output
string | domain
string | language
string |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Summarize this business insight:
|
Nanodegree Program Syllabus
I N D I V I D U A L L E A R N E R S
Artificial Intelligence
for Trading
S C H O O L O F A R T I F I C I A L I N T E L L I G E N C E
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 2
Overview
In this program, learners will analyze real data and build financial models for trading. Whether learners want to level up
in finance, obtain new skills in quant trading, or learn the latest AI applications in quantitative finance, this program offers
them the opportunity to gain mastery of valuable data and AI skills. Building a project is one of the best ways to demonstrate
the skills students have learned learned, and each project will contribute to an impressive professional portfolio that will
demonstrate learners newly acquired knowledge of quantitative finance.
Built in collaboration with:
Program information
Learners need access to a computer running OS X or Windows; Python 3.7.
A well-prepared learner should have experience programming with Python and familiarity with statistics, linear
algebra, and calculus.
6 months at 10hrs/week*
Estimated Time
Prerequisites
Required Hardware/Software
Intermediate
Skill Level
*The length of this program is an estimation of total hours the average student may take to complete all required
coursework, including lecture and project time. If you spend about 5-10 hours per week working through the program, you
should finish within the time provided. Actual hours may vary.
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 3
Course 1
Cour
|
This passage discusses: Nanodegree Program Syllabus
I N D I V I D U A L L E A R N E R S
Artificial Intelligence
for Trading
S C H O O L O F A R T I F I C I A L I N T E L L I G E N C E
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 2
Overview
In this program, learners will analyze real data and build financial models for trading. Whether learners want to level up
in finance, obtain new skills in quant trading, or learn the latest AI applications in quantitative finance, this program offers
them the opportunity to gain mastery ...
|
kinh_doanh
|
en
|
Summarize this business insight:
|
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 7
Factor Investing & Alpha Research
In this course, you will learn about alpha factors and risk factors, and construct a portfolio with advanced portfolio
optimization techniques.
Multi-Factor Model
In this project, learners will research and generate multiple alpha factors. Then they will apply various
techniques to evaluate the performance of their alpha factors and learn to pick the best ones for their
portfolio. Learners will formulate an advanced portfolio optimization problem by working with constraints
such as risk models, leverage, market neutrality and limits on factor exposures.
Course Project
Course 4
Lesson 1
Factors Models of Returns
Lesson 2
Risk Factor Models
Lesson 3
Alpha Factors
Lesson 4
Advanced Portfolio Optimization
with Risk & Alpha Factors Models
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 8
Sentiment Analysis with Natural Language
Processing
In this course, students will learn the fundamentals of text processing and use them to analyze corporate filings and generate
sentiment-based trading signals.
Sentiment Analysis using NLP
In this project, learners will apply natural language processing on corporate filings, such as 10Q and 10K
statements, from cleaning data and text processing, to feature extraction and modeling. Learners will utilize
bag-of-words and TF-IDF to generate company-specific sentiments. Based on the sentiments, learners will
decide which company to invest in and the optimal time to buy or sell.
Co
|
This passage discusses: Artificial Intelligence for Trading 7
Factor Investing & Alpha Research
In this course, you will learn about alpha factors and risk factors, and construct a portfolio with advanced portfolio
optimization techniques.
Multi-Factor Model
In this project, learners will research and generate multiple alpha factors. Then they will apply various
techniques to evaluate the performance of their alpha factors and learn to pick the best ones for their
portfolio. Learners will formulate an advanced portf...
|
kinh_doanh
|
en
|
Summarize this business insight:
|
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 12
Simulating Trades with Historical Data
In this project, learners will build a fairly realistic backtester that uses the Barra data. The backtester will perform portfolio
optimization that includes transaction costs, and learners will implement it with computational efficiency in mind, to allow
for a reasonably fast backtest. Learners will also use performance attribution to identify the major rivers of their portfolio’s
profit-and-loss (PnL). Learners will have the option to modify and customize the backtest as well.
Backtesting
In this project, learners will combine signals on a random forest for enhanced alpha. While implementing
this, learners will have to solve the problem of overlapping samples. For the dataset, we’ll be using the end
of day from Quotemedia and sector data from Sharadar.
Course Project
Course 8
Lesson 1
Intro to Backtesting
Lesson 2
Optimization with Transaction Costs
Lesson 3
Attribution
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 13
Brok Bucholtz
Instructor
Brok has more than 5 years of software engineering experience from companies like
Optimal Blue. Brok has built Udacity projects for the Self-Driving Car, Deep Learning, and AI
Nanodegree programs.
Cindy Lin
Curriculum Lead
Cindy is a quantitative analyst with experience working for financial institutions such as Bank of
America, Merrill Lynch, Morgan Stanley, and Ping An Securities. She has an MS in computational
finance from Carnegie Mellon University.
Eddy
|
This passage discusses: Artificial Intelligence for Trading 12
Simulating Trades with Historical Data
In this project, learners will build a fairly realistic backtester that uses the Barra data. The backtester will perform portfolio
optimization that includes transaction costs, and learners will implement it with computational efficiency in mind, to allow
for a reasonably fast backtest. Learners will also use performance attribution to identify the major rivers of their portfolio’s
profit-and-loss (PnL). Learners wi...
|
kinh_doanh
|
en
|
Summarize this business insight:
|
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 16
Udacity’s learning
experience
Knowledge
Find answers to your questions with Knowledge,
our proprietary wiki. Search questions asked by
other students, connect with technical mentors,
and discover how to solve the challenges that
you encounter.
Workspaces
See your code in action. Check the output and
quality of your code by running it on interactive
workspaces that are integrated into the platform.
Quizzes
Auto-graded quizzes strengthen comprehension.
Learners can return to lessons at any time during
the course to refresh concepts.
Custom Study Plans
Create a personalized study plan that fits your
individual needs. Utilize this plan to keep track of
movement toward your overall goal.
Progress Tracker
Take advantage of milestone reminders to stay
on schedule and complete your program.
Hands-on Projects
Open-ended, experiential projects are designed
to reflect actual workplace challenges. They aren’t
just multiple choice questions or step-by-step
guides, but instead require critical thinking.
Artificial Intelligence for Trading 17
Our proven approach for building
job-ready digital skills.
Personal Career Services
Empower job-readiness.
• Access to a Github portfolio review that can give you an edge by highlighting your
strengths, and demonstrating your value to employers.*
• Get help optimizing your LinkedIn and establishing your personal brand so your profile
ranks higher in searches by recruiters and hiring manag
|
This passage discusses: Artificial Intelligence for Trading 16
Udacity’s learning
experience
Knowledge
Find answers to your questions with Knowledge,
our proprietary wiki. Search questions asked by
other students, connect with technical mentors,
and discover how to solve the challenges that
you encounter.
Workspaces
See your code in action. Check the output and
quality of your code by running it on interactive
workspaces that are integrated into the platform.
Quizzes
Auto-graded quizzes strengthen comprehensio...
|
kinh_doanh
|
en
|
Summarize and explain this content:
|
So let’s start with the simple step which is asking yourself:
“Why am I learning this language?”
Some consider language as a form of knowledge. And to understand any culture to the fullest, you should learn the language.
Now, let’s discover the HOW.
Please keep in mind that learning a language is hard by all means. It takes a lot of time and dedication. There is no faster way to learn a language from scratch, I promise, you have to pay the price. Be aware that one method alone won’t get you very far and not everybody learns in the same way eventually. Since everything in life has pros and cons, I am pretty sure that we have to combine a bunch of different approaches and techniques ( self study versus group study, rote learning versus meaningful learning, to name a few…). But the crucial principle is being flexible and consistent once you find out what works best for you.
Some of you might know how to learn a language already, but if you don’t, then please be my guest on this ride. I discovered this wonderful secret some years ago. It goes by the name of ‘'CORE IMMERSION''.
FIRST, immersing yourself in the target language.
The key point here is you will learn new words and phrases naturally in diverse contexts.
In this day and age, numerous bilingual resources that provide audio files, video files and transcripts are available for free everywhere. Literally, we can create a language immersion environment in the blink of an eye. When you are surrounded by the language everyda
|
This passage discusses: So let’s start with the simple step which is asking yourself:
“Why am I learning this language?”
Some consider language as a form of knowledge. And to understand any culture to the fullest, you should learn the language.
Now, let’s discover the HOW.
Please keep in mind that learning a language is hard by all means. It takes a lot of time and dedication. There is no faster way to learn a language from scratch, I promise, you have to pay the price. Be aware that one method alone won’t get you very...
|
misc
|
en
|
Summarize and explain this content:
|
But don’t rush yourself into a conversation too soon.
It’s been said that there is no better way to immerse yourself in the target language than practicing speaking with a native speaker. Ironically, in order to participate in a language exchange, you must have a conversational level where you can hold a conversation.When the required foundations are not built up strong enough, redundant chitchats will not improve your language skills as expected. Not to mention, you may develop certain bad habits, such as, translating from your native language to the point that you get accustomed to a huge number of errors and end up being unable to reach a higher level of proficiency. So I guess we have to struggle on our own before we can actually have a successful language exchange. Let’s use the dead time to listen to your target language podcasts, speeches and dialogues as much as possible.
SECOND, self-creating the unique core, not parroting the common periphery.
Find out the most used words,phrases and sentences of your respective language. No need cramming up the so-called “ 10000 most common words” list. Remember, your own purposes, hobbies and interests will decide how your personal usage list looks like. It is a particular set of common characteristics which is the fingerprint of your language. For example, while communicating with language exchangers, I always prefer medium talk to small talk whenever it comes to the impact of social media on human behavior. As a result, my idiol
|
This passage discusses: But don’t rush yourself into a conversation too soon.
It’s been said that there is no better way to immerse yourself in the target language than practicing speaking with a native speaker. Ironically, in order to participate in a language exchange, you must have a conversational level where you can hold a conversation.When the required foundations are not built up strong enough, redundant chitchats will not improve your language skills as expected. Not to mention, you may develop certain bad habi...
|
misc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
ALSO AVAILABLE
Acknowledgments
In writing this book I have been taken on another wonderful and
unique journey. Not only have I discovered more delicious dishes, I
have also learnt so much more about the rich history and culture of
colonial Vietnam. I am always amazed and appreciative as to where the
love of food has taken me.
Indochine would not have been possible without the love and support from
four very special people:
My mum and dad, who scouted all the wet markets of Vietnam in search of
the freshest produce so we could cook and shoot each recipe.
My beautiful loving partner, Suzanna Boyd, who keeps wowing me with
her talents in photography, design and, now, food styling! I would have
been absolutely lost without you.
Alan Benson, you are incredible. Your photography is truly stunning and
you seem to create these amazing images with such grace. I thank you for
your professionalism and great friendship.
Much respects to the publishing team of Kylie Walker, Hugh Ford, Kim
Rowney, Leanne Kitchen and Livia Caiazzo.
Big hugs to the entire Red Lantern Family; without your dedication, passion
and hard work, I would not have found the time to complete this book. I
thank you.
To my wonderful family in France, thank you all so much for sharing your
knowledge and love for French–Vietnamese cuisine and culture.
Thank you also to all the cooks, restaurateurs, hoteliers and friends in
Vietnam who were so generous with their time and knowledge; and lastly,
thank you to Vietnam Airlin
|
This passage discusses: ALSO AVAILABLE
Acknowledgments
In writing this book I have been taken on another wonderful and
unique journey. Not only have I discovered more delicious dishes, I
have also learnt so much more about the rich history and culture of
colonial Vietnam. I am always amazed and appreciative as to where the
love of food has taken me.
Indochine would not have been possible without the love and support from
four very special people:
My mum and dad, who scouted all the wet markets of Vietnam in search of
...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
many of our friends have passed, so we make sure we catch up every
morning for our walk. Afterwards we usually head to our friend’s charcuterie
store to buy freshly baked baguettes and pâté for our families.’
Baguettes and pâté… The French had such a profound impact on the
Vietnamese way of life yet I’ve never stopped to really consider the culinary
legacy they left behind, or how much influence it has had on my own and
other Vietnamese families’ cooking techniques. I explain that I’ve only ever
had a vague notion of this period of French occupation, that it lasted from
1862 to 1954, but that I’ve never delved deeper into it.
As I sit in the park, drinking iced coffee and listening to two old men
telling the stories of their youth, I realise a door is opening for me, that the
seed of a new adventure has been planted. From that very moment, I commit
to spending the next month travelling through Vietnam to discover how the
French influenced what the Vietnamese cook and eat today, and how the
French presence was felt in daily life and if it continues to do so. I’m barely
able to contain my excitement as I tell them my plans.
One of the men puts a calming hand on my shoulder. ‘Begin your journey
first by simply walking through the old streets of central Hanoi,’ he tells me.
‘And as you walk, don’t always just look straight ahead but be sure to look
up!’
As they send me on my way, I think how it is always the lives and stories
of the people I meet who give such depth and heart to
|
This passage discusses: many of our friends have passed, so we make sure we catch up every
morning for our walk. Afterwards we usually head to our friend’s charcuterie
store to buy freshly baked baguettes and pâté for our families.’
Baguettes and pâté… The French had such a profound impact on the
Vietnamese way of life yet I’ve never stopped to really consider the culinary
legacy they left behind, or how much influence it has had on my own and
other Vietnamese families’ cooking techniques. I explain that I’ve only ever...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
I arrive in time to catch the quirky sight of thirty or so men and women, all
over the age of fifty, strutting their stuff to the beat, doing the cha-cha-cha,
salsa and the lambada. The dancers are assembled in small groups, taking
their cues from each dance leader, and I can’t help but laugh with joy at such
a sight. I take a few photos and they begin to gravitate towards my camera,
dancing even harder with more hip action and sass. I cheer them on and they
love it!
As hard as it is to draw myself away from them, I continue my walk, this
time in search of something to appease my growling stomach. As I know
only too well, where there are people there are food carts, but I have to be
quick because they’ll soon pack up and go home. The locals come here at
the crack of dawn when it is cool, they do their exercise, have their breakfast
and then head off to work. There are noodle soups, tofu and sticky rice on
offer — a perfect start to the day.
For fifty years this enormous stone building
showcased French power, a political statement
symbolising French rule over Vietnam’s oldest
city.
Breakfast finished, I leave the park. Time has passed quickly and already
it’s peak hour. A swarm of motorbikes buzz past me, and away from the
cooling shade of the trees, I really feel the heat beginning to kick in. I walk
towards town and arrive in an area known as the French Quarter. I stop
smack bang in the middle of a busy intersection on Trang Tien Street and
look up to see a building that I
|
This passage discusses: I arrive in time to catch the quirky sight of thirty or so men and women, all
over the age of fifty, strutting their stuff to the beat, doing the cha-cha-cha,
salsa and the lambada. The dancers are assembled in small groups, taking
their cues from each dance leader, and I can’t help but laugh with joy at such
a sight. I take a few photos and they begin to gravitate towards my camera,
dancing even harder with more hip action and sass. I cheer them on and they
love it!
As hard as it is to draw my...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Madame Van at the Metropole
A VINTAGE CITROËN TRACTION PULLS UP IN THE sweeping
entrance of a grand building. The doorman, wearing a black suit and white
gloves, opens the car door and helps his guests out, leaving their Louis
Vuitton suitcases for the porter. He ushers them inside where they are
greeted by elegant female hosts dressed in traditional ao dai. I can’t help but
feel that I’ve just witnessed a scene from the cult film, Indochine. I cross the
road to take a closer look.
As I enter the legendary Sofitel Metropole, I feel as though I have slipped
back in time. Built at the turn of the nineteenth century, this French colonial
hotel oozes the nostalgic flair and charm of a bygone era, with its wood
panelling, French doors, beautifully crafted furniture and low ceiling fans.
As captivated as I am by the lobby, I naturally gravitate towards the
restaurant. A long–time favourite for the city’s elite, Le Beaulieu Restaurant
is renowned for its fine French food and magnificent old–world wines.
The restaurant menu reads well: chicken cooked in red wine; carved leg of
lamb with potato purée; roasted lobster with garlic butter and fresh pumpkin
mousse; slow–cooked lamb shanks with white beans and honey roasted
carrots…
‘Can I help you?’ the restaurant manager asks.
I briefly tell him of my mission and ask if he knows much about French–
inspired Vietnamese dishes and if the restaurant serves such food.
He clicks his fingers and says in a charming French accent, ‘I have got jus
|
This passage discusses: Madame Van at the Metropole
A VINTAGE CITROËN TRACTION PULLS UP IN THE sweeping
entrance of a grand building. The doorman, wearing a black suit and white
gloves, opens the car door and helps his guests out, leaving their Louis
Vuitton suitcases for the porter. He ushers them inside where they are
greeted by elegant female hosts dressed in traditional ao dai. I can’t help but
feel that I’ve just witnessed a scene from the cult film, Indochine. I cross the
road to take a closer look.
As I enter th...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
made stocks, we used to add uncooked vegetables for a clear soup, but now,
for our beef broth in particular, we chargrill or roast the vegetables before we
add them to the pot — this is a typical French technique.
‘There is a dish that I cook often, bo sot vang, which is beef cooked in rice
wine. The Vietnamese never used to braise their meats in wine, but now we
even use red wine in our cooking. Today in the streets of Hanoi you can find
ladies selling pho sot vang, beef noodle soup in a red wine broth. And did
you know that before the French came to Vietnam, the Vietnamese people
hardly ever ate beef or buffalo? The French arrived and saw an abundance of
cattle and buffaloes in the fields and wondered why we didn’t eat them. We
considered these animals as working animals; they ploughed the rice fields
for us and thus helped to provide our staple — rice. But the French
eventually had their way and, sure enough, beef soon became the much–
loved meat it is now.’
We talk some more, then it’s time for me to leave. I feel quite
overwhelmed with how much I’ve learnt in such a short time. Madame Van
scribbles in my notebook the name of a place where I might find some good
street food, quickly says her goodbyes and returns to the kitchen. I glance at
what she’s written. It simply says ‘corner of Hang Cot, under the railway
bridge’. I tuck it into my pocket — a little food–discovery adventure awaits.
Hanoi beef soft noodle rolls
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED STARTER
I was so excite
|
This passage discusses: made stocks, we used to add uncooked vegetables for a clear soup, but now,
for our beef broth in particular, we chargrill or roast the vegetables before we
add them to the pot — this is a typical French technique.
‘There is a dish that I cook often, bo sot vang, which is beef cooked in rice
wine. The Vietnamese never used to braise their meats in wine, but now we
even use red wine in our cooking. Today in the streets of Hanoi you can find
ladies selling pho sot vang, beef noodle soup in a red wi...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Duck à l’orange
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
This Vietnamese adaptation of the classic French dish
is amazingly moreish, and I actually prefer it to the
traditional version. Try to source fresh young coconut
water for this recipe, because the tinned variety has a
bit of added sugar, which will make the dish far too
sweet.
INGREDIENTS
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) whole duck
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 red Asian shallots, chopped
6 garlic cloves, chopped
2 lemongrass stems, white part only, bruised
2 star anise
2 cinnamon sticks
¼ teaspoon five–spice
juice of 5 oranges
grated zest of 1 orange
2 tablespoons shaoxing rice wine
3 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
700 ml (24 fl oz) young coconut water (approximately)
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
METHOD
To chop the duck into quarters, use poultry scissors or a large sharp knife to
cut down each side of the backbone, then remove and discard the backbone.
Remove the legs by cutting through the thigh joint, then cut the breast in half
lengthways through the breastbone. Rub the duck pieces with salt.
Heat a large frying pan over medium heat, then add the oil and sear the
duck, skin side down first, for 3 minutes on each side, or until browned.
Remove the duck from the pan and set aside. Drain the fat from the pan,
leaving about 2 tablespoons in the pan.
Return the duck to the pan again over medium heat. Add the shallots,
garlic, lemongrass, star anise, cinnamon and five–spice and cook for 3
minu
|
This passage discusses: Duck à l’orange
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
This Vietnamese adaptation of the classic French dish
is amazingly moreish, and I actually prefer it to the
traditional version. Try to source fresh young coconut
water for this recipe, because the tinned variety has a
bit of added sugar, which will make the dish far too
sweet.
INGREDIENTS
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) whole duck
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 red Asian shallots, chopped
6 garlic cloves, chopped
2 lemongrass stems, white part only, bruised...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Truong Dinh Tuyen and his wife
The Old Quarter is the historic heart of Hanoi, home to thousands of years
of history. Hanoi sits on the right bank of the Red River, so named for its
reddish-brown colour, but the river once ran through the city centre, down
canals and winding waterways, which were built to allow cargo boats better
access to the city. Later, the French colonists filled in the canals, creating a
network of winding streets known as the ‘thirty-six traditional handicraft
streets’.
If you have been to the Old Quarter you will notice that most streets start
with ‘Hang’, which doesn’t mean ‘street’ as you would expect, but actually
means ‘merchandise’, as each is usually named after the commodity that was
once sold there. Still today, these streets retain their French translations.
There’s Hang Bong (Rue du Coton), which sells cotton; Hang Bac (Rue des
Changeurs), selling silver; Hang Duong (Rue du Sucre), selling sugar; and
Hang Non (Rue des Chapeaux), selling hats.
I come across a street called Cha Ca, which translates to ‘fried fish’, and
sure enough almost all the restaurants on this street serve cha ca, a
traditional Hanoian dish of snakehead fish or catfish marinated in turmeric
and dill, cooked at the table and served with soft vermicelli noodles.
I am stopped in my tracks by a group of French people who walk past me
and into one of the cha ca restaurants. An elderly Vietnamese man at the
door greets them in French, which immediately grabs my attention. I ent
|
This passage discusses: Truong Dinh Tuyen and his wife
The Old Quarter is the historic heart of Hanoi, home to thousands of years
of history. Hanoi sits on the right bank of the Red River, so named for its
reddish-brown colour, but the river once ran through the city centre, down
canals and winding waterways, which were built to allow cargo boats better
access to the city. Later, the French colonists filled in the canals, creating a
network of winding streets known as the ‘thirty-six traditional handicraft
streets’.
If...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Hanoi’s Old Quarter
Wow! The dish has everything: great colours, wonderful textures, varying
temperatures and incredible contrasting flavours. The dill is abundant but
subtle and the turmeric and galangal are very well balanced — not
overpowering at all. This dish may well become one of my favourite
Hanoian dishes.
The old man brings me some mam tom, a shrimp paste dipping sauce,
which he says adds more depth to the dish. He sits down next to me while I
eat and we begin to chat.
His name is Truong Dinh Tuyen and he was born in 1923. Quite tall for a
Vietnamese and very handsome, Tuyen is still strong and nimble for his age,
and has a smile that warms the room. He tells me that this recipe is almost a
hundred years old and has been passed down from generation to generation.
‘When I was a boy, we used to serve this dish a little differently,’ he says.
‘We served the fish on large trays on bamboo skewers; you could eat as
many as you wanted. At the end of the meal I would count the empty
skewers then charge accordingly.’
This got me thinking about the possible French origins of the dish. Usually
Vietnamese eat fish in cutlets, with bones and all to savour the sweetness; it
wasn’t typically Vietnamese to fillet the fish or pan-fry it — this seemed
more like something the French would do.
‘So is this dish influenced by the French?’ I ask.
He thinks for a minute then replies, ‘No, I don’t believe so. They may have
possibly influenced the way we eat it now, but it has always been a
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This passage discusses: Hanoi’s Old Quarter
Wow! The dish has everything: great colours, wonderful textures, varying
temperatures and incredible contrasting flavours. The dill is abundant but
subtle and the turmeric and galangal are very well balanced — not
overpowering at all. This dish may well become one of my favourite
Hanoian dishes.
The old man brings me some mam tom, a shrimp paste dipping sauce,
which he says adds more depth to the dish. He sits down next to me while I
eat and we begin to chat.
His name is Truo...
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am_thuc
|
en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Slow–cooked oxtail and beef brisket in
aromatic spices
SERVES 6–8 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
This is a great example of how the Vietnamese have
turned a traditional French stew into a classic
Vietnamese dish. There are many versions of bo kho
throughout Vietnam, and this one is the northern
version. I use sarsaparilla in this recipe as I find it
complements the star anise, but if you can’t find
sarsaparilla, use stout instead.
INGREDIENTS
3 star anise
2 cloves
1 piece of cassia bark
½ teaspoon five–spice
2 teaspoons shaoxing rice wine
1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
170 ml (5½ fl oz/2/3 cup) sarsaparilla
700 g (1 lb 9 oz) beef brisket, cut into 5 x 2 cm (2 x ¾ inch) pieces
700 g (1 lb 9 oz) oxtail, washed
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 red Asian shallots, chopped, plus 4 extra, peeled and left whole
3 garlic cloves, chopped
4 tablespoons tomato paste (concentrated purée)
2 tablespoons annatto oil
2 litres (70 fl oz/8 cups) beef stock base for pho
250 g (9 oz) carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 handful Vietnamese basil leaves
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
METHOD
Heat a small frying pan over low heat and dry–roast the star anise, cloves
and cassia bark separately for 2–3 minutes, or until fragrant. Allow to cool,
then grind the spices using a mortar and pestle. Combine the ground spices
and the five–spice in a large mixing bowl, then add the rice wine, hoisin
sauce and sarsaparilla. Add the beef brisket and oxtail and mix well. Cover
and place in the fridge to marinate overnight.
Pla
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This passage discusses: Slow–cooked oxtail and beef brisket in
aromatic spices
SERVES 6–8 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
This is a great example of how the Vietnamese have
turned a traditional French stew into a classic
Vietnamese dish. There are many versions of bo kho
throughout Vietnam, and this one is the northern
version. I use sarsaparilla in this recipe as I find it
complements the star anise, but if you can’t find
sarsaparilla, use stout instead.
INGREDIENTS
3 star anise
2 cloves
1 piece of cassia bark
½ teaspoon fiv...
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am_thuc
|
en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
The last of the Mohicans
I STEP ONTO THE STREET OUTSIDE MR TUYEN’S restaurant, the
number for his old friend on a piece of paper in my hand. I decide to call her
straight away. Her name is Delphine and she agrees to see me. She lives only
ten minutes away and I’m excited at the thought of soon meeting her.
I hurry down Thuoc Bac Street, breathing in aromatic wafts of ginseng,
cinnamon and dried ginger as I walk past the many Chinese herbal medicine
shops that line the street. It is insanely hot and my cap is dripping wet, but it
doesn’t bother me because I’m keen to get there.
Madame Delphine’s house is directly across the road from a stunning jade-
coloured lake called Thien Quang, on Nguyen Du Street. It is in the groovy
part of town, a well-to-do area dotted with funky cafés, modern restaurants
and brand-name stores. I note how appropriate it is that her house is next
door to an international clothing store called French Connection.
I press the button and seconds later the heavy door screeches open, then
slams loudly behind me as I walk up the narrow spiral metal stairs.
‘Xin chao,’ a woman’s voice calls out from a nearby room. ‘Madame
Delphine is expecting you.’
The housekeeper leads me into the house, pointing at my shoes to make
sure I take them off before entering. The room is dark, hot and musty; it is
bare except for a few wooden stools, a small electric fan and an altar table
with a few sticks of smoking cinnamon-scented incense. The walls are
covered in old black-a
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This passage discusses: The last of the Mohicans
I STEP ONTO THE STREET OUTSIDE MR TUYEN’S restaurant, the
number for his old friend on a piece of paper in my hand. I decide to call her
straight away. Her name is Delphine and she agrees to see me. She lives only
ten minutes away and I’m excited at the thought of soon meeting her.
I hurry down Thuoc Bac Street, breathing in aromatic wafts of ginseng,
cinnamon and dried ginger as I walk past the many Chinese herbal medicine
shops that line the street. It is insanely hot ...
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am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Madame Delphine’s family villa
‘My birth name is Ho Thi Thuy Tan. I was born in 1932 into a very noble
family. My grandparents were the king and queen of Tonkin and Annam. My
grandfather governed all of the northern areas and was the head of the largest
French college in Vietnam, called Albert Sarraut College, named after the
first French governor. This is where all my uncles, aunties, siblings, both my
parents and I were educated. We were taught only in the French language
and were all given French names — mine was Delphine.
‘My parents were arranged in marriage to each other at the age of eight,
which was quite normal back then. They both later became advisors to the
French, known as Vietnamese mandarins. Our whole family lived like the
French; we ate the same food they did, dressed like them, spoke their
language and were even given French citizenship. My parents travelled by
ship to Paris often, for two months at a time, to complete their masters and
doctorates in law.’
She stops and points to one of the photographs. ‘Believe it or not, those
men are all my great uncles, but they could be easily mistaken for being
French. We lived a very fortunate life, travelled all over Vietnam for
holidays, staying in one of the many villas we owned. But this all changed in
1945 when Ho Chi Minh and his National Liberation Committee called for
the August Revolution, declaring independence. This was the beginning of
the Franco-Viet Minh War. In 1954, the French eventually lost the nine
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This passage discusses: Madame Delphine’s family villa
‘My birth name is Ho Thi Thuy Tan. I was born in 1932 into a very noble
family. My grandparents were the king and queen of Tonkin and Annam. My
grandfather governed all of the northern areas and was the head of the largest
French college in Vietnam, called Albert Sarraut College, named after the
first French governor. This is where all my uncles, aunties, siblings, both my
parents and I were educated. We were taught only in the French language
and were all given Fr...
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am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Chargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green
papaya
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
When chargrilling or deep–frying prawns, I always
leave the head and tail intact as I enjoy their crispy
texture. Please be adventurous and give it a go.
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
½ teaspoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons sugar
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped
6 raw jumbo prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined, heads and tails intact
1 green papaya, peeled and julienned
5 perilla leaves, sliced
5 Vietnamese mint leaves, sliced
5 mint leaves, sliced
1 tablespoon crushed roasted peanuts
1 tablespoon fried garlic
Vietnamese mint sprig, to garnish
METHOD
Combine the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, garlic
and chilli in a mixing bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the prawns
and toss to coat in the marinade, then set aside at room temperature for 20
minutes.
In another mixing bowl, combine the green papaya, herbs, peanuts and
fried garlic. Set aside.
Drain the prawns, reserving the marinade. Place the marinade in a wok or
small saucepan and bring to the boil, then cook for 4 minutes until reduced
and slightly thickened.
Meanwhile, heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium–high heat.
Chargrill the prawns for 3–4 minutes on each side, basting the prawns with
the marinade every minute or so. Add the cooked prawns to the papaya
mixture, drizzle 2 tablespoons of the marinade into
|
This passage discusses: Chargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green
papaya
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
When chargrilling or deep–frying prawns, I always
leave the head and tail intact as I enjoy their crispy
texture. Please be adventurous and give it a go.
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
½ teaspoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons sugar
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped
6 raw jumbo prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined, heads and tails...
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am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Beef sirloin wok–tossed with garlic and green
peppercorns
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
When the French arrived in Vietnam, they were
surprised to see that the locals did not eat beef often,
as cows were regarded mainly as working animals.
This recipe is the Vietnamese version of the popular
French dish, pepper steak.
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon hot water
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon caster (superfine) sugar
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) beef sirloin, trimmed and cut into 1.5 cm (5/8 inch) dice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
½ small onion, cut into large dice
10 fresh green peppercorns (or use peppercorns in brine, drained)
50 g (1¾ oz) butter
pinch of salt
generous pinch of cracked black pepper
1 sprig fresh green peppercorns, to garnish
light soy sauce and sliced chilli, for dipping
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
METHOD
Combine the hot water, oyster sauce, sesame oil and sugar in a mixing bowl,
stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the beef and toss to coat well, then set
aside to marinate for 10 minutes. Remove the beef from the marinade and
drain well.
Place a wok over the highest heat until smoking hot. Drizzle the oil around
the top of the wok; the oil should ignite into flames, so take care. Add the
beef in batches and seal it on all sides, shaking and tossing the beef in the
wok. The beef should be charred and the wok flaming.
Add the garlic, onion, green peppercorns and butter to the wok and
continue to stir-fry for 4 minutes,
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This passage discusses: Beef sirloin wok–tossed with garlic and green
peppercorns
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
When the French arrived in Vietnam, they were
surprised to see that the locals did not eat beef often,
as cows were regarded mainly as working animals.
This recipe is the Vietnamese version of the popular
French dish, pepper steak.
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon hot water
3 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon caster (superfine) sugar
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) beef sirloin, trimmed and cut into 1...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
country. The costs of having French officials and military here were very
high and who do you think paid for all that? The Vietnamese people did —
my grandparents, your grandparents — with outrageously high taxes.
‘Now if you think that was criminal. In 1902 the French decided to
monopolise the making and selling of alcohol. They made drinking of
alcohol compulsory by law. Every village in Vietnam had to drink a set
amount of alcohol each year and, of course, the French made it illegal for
anyone to privately distil their own alcohol, something that has been part of
the Vietnamese way of life for many years. If you were caught distilling your
own, you would be imprisoned.
‘Once the French owned the alcohol market, they moved on to salt
production. The administration bought salt directly from the producers, and
then would sell it to the Vietnamese for triple the price. If that wasn’t
enough, the French then gained control of all the poppy fields and
encouraged the Vietnamese to smoke opium, resulting in a huge increase in
the number of Vietnamese who were addicted to this drug.
‘With alcohol, salt and opium sales and increasing high taxes, the colonial
administration’s income soared. All profits were taken back to France, while
the Vietnamese were exploited and treated like slaves, with millions dying
from starvation and malnutrition.’
He stops, trying to calm his emotions, then looks at me intently. ‘Now, do
you think all that was worth it, just to get some cooking tips off t
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This passage discusses: country. The costs of having French officials and military here were very
high and who do you think paid for all that? The Vietnamese people did —
my grandparents, your grandparents — with outrageously high taxes.
‘Now if you think that was criminal. In 1902 the French decided to
monopolise the making and selling of alcohol. They made drinking of
alcohol compulsory by law. Every village in Vietnam had to drink a set
amount of alcohol each year and, of course, the French made it illegal for
anyon...
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am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
The Vietnamese people have taken all things
great from China, France and America and have
adapted them into their own culture.
Cuong shakes my hand and smiles. ‘I apologise if I got worked up,’ he
says. ‘All my ancestors have always experienced famine and poverty, many
were slaves to French rubber companies, some fought in the American War,
and some died at sea attempting to flee the country. Then, there’s me. I’m
almost fifty and I’m still only a motorbike taxi driver. But I should stop
being so bitter; at least my kids are all at school and my family eat well.’
He stands up to leave. ‘Come on, I’ll show you a place that you might find
interesting.’
We hop on his bike and ride through a tangled web of tiny streets and
narrow lanes, stopping at a busy little intersection on the corner of Luong
Ngoc Quyen and Ta Hien streets. We sit on miniature plastic stools, beside a
keg of beer with a small sign that reads, ‘Bia Hoi — 3000 dong’.
‘This place is known as Bia Hoi corner, and this is where I come most
days after work,’ he tells me. ‘Bia hoi means fresh beer, and I’m told that it’s
the cheapest beer in the world. I brought you here because I was thinking
about what you said about coffee and it being a large part of our culture.
Well, I think beer is too. Vietnam now has a huge beer drinking culture, and
I guess we owe that to the French. Take one of our most famous premium
beers in Vietnam, 333. This beer was actually introduced by the French
when they started a brewery in Ho
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This passage discusses: The Vietnamese people have taken all things
great from China, France and America and have
adapted them into their own culture.
Cuong shakes my hand and smiles. ‘I apologise if I got worked up,’ he
says. ‘All my ancestors have always experienced famine and poverty, many
were slaves to French rubber companies, some fought in the American War,
and some died at sea attempting to flee the country. Then, there’s me. I’m
almost fifty and I’m still only a motorbike taxi driver. But I should stop
being s...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Remove the upper shell of the crab, pick off the gills, which look like little
fingers, and discard them. Clean the crab under running water and drain.
Place the crab on its stomach and chop the crab in half lengthways with a
heavy cleaver. Now chop each half into 4 pieces, chopping each piece
behind each leg. With the back of the cleaver, gently crack each claw (this
makes it easier to extract the meat). Repeat for all the crabs.
Combine the sesame oil, oyster sauce, fish sauce, 1 tablespoon of the
garlic, the sugar, salt and pepper in a large mixing bowl, stirring to dissolve
the sugar. Add the crabs and toss to coat in the marinade. Set aside to
marinate for 20 minutes.
Place the crabs in a large metal or bamboo steamer and cover with the lid.
Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and steam
for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and pour the beer over the crabs, then cover
again and continue to steam for a further 10 minutes.
Trim the spring onions and then chop the white part into 4 cm (1½ inch)
lengths. Thinly slice the green part of 3 stems.
Heat a wok over high heat, then add the oil and butter, then the onion,
shallots, the remaining garlic and the white spring onion lengths. Stir-fry for
2 minutes until fragrant, then add the steamed crabs and wok-toss for a
further minute. Transfer to a serving platter and garnish with the spring
onion greens. Serve with Asian beer.
Crispy frogs’ legs
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons sh
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This passage discusses: Remove the upper shell of the crab, pick off the gills, which look like little
fingers, and discard them. Clean the crab under running water and drain.
Place the crab on its stomach and chop the crab in half lengthways with a
heavy cleaver. Now chop each half into 4 pieces, chopping each piece
behind each leg. With the back of the cleaver, gently crack each claw (this
makes it easier to extract the meat). Repeat for all the crabs.
Combine the sesame oil, oyster sauce, fish sauce, 1 tablespoon of...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
‘What is all this for?’ I ask him.
‘It’s for my mother’s pho broth. We have to prepare it now so it’s ready for
our noodle stall tomorrow morning. Come back at 6 am and it’ll be ready
then.’
I remember Madame Van from the Metropole telling me how Vietnamese
cooks have adapted to the French technique of chargrilling their vegetables
for their beef broths. I ask him if I can stay and watch.
He points to a small house nearby. ‘You’ll have to ask my mum.’
From the main street you’d never guess that this neighbourhood even
exists. The tiny hobbit-like houses with their doors in shades of light green,
pastel blue and purple surround a deep water well, shaded by several large
tamarind trees. I’m so happy that I’ve discovered this hidden gem.
At the house, an elderly lady squats on a concrete floor, slicing onions on a
wooden chopping block, while a teenage girl slices spring onions by the
bucket load. I tell them that I am a cook from Australia and ask if it’s okay if
I watch them cook their broth.
‘Sure thing!’ the older woman says, then the two look at each other and
burst into hysterical laughter; it’s quite unusual to meet a young Vietnamese
male who wants to learn how to cook street food. The older woman hands
me a tiny chopping board, a blunt rusty cleaver and a red plastic colander
full of fresh sirloin.
‘Start slicing!’ she says, trying her best to stifle her giggles.
Unfazed, I grab the tools and wedge myself in between them. Their home
is the smallest I’ve ever seen in Vie
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This passage discusses: ‘What is all this for?’ I ask him.
‘It’s for my mother’s pho broth. We have to prepare it now so it’s ready for
our noodle stall tomorrow morning. Come back at 6 am and it’ll be ready
then.’
I remember Madame Van from the Metropole telling me how Vietnamese
cooks have adapted to the French technique of chargrilling their vegetables
for their beef broths. I ask him if I can stay and watch.
He points to a small house nearby. ‘You’ll have to ask my mum.’
From the main street you’d never guess that ...
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am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
8 cloves
5 star anise
2 x 10 cm (4 inch) pieces of cassia bark
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
40 cm (16 inch) square muslin cloth
METHOD
Fill a large saucepan with cold water, add 3 tablespoons of the salt, then
submerge the oxtail in the water. Soak for 1 hour, then drain.
To make the spice pouch, dry-roast each ingredient separately in a frying
pan over medium–low heat, shaking the pan constantly, for 1–2 minutes, or
until fragrant. Cool, then coarsely grind using a mortar and pestle or electric
spice grinder. Add the ground spices to the muslin square and tie up tightly
in a knot. Set aside.
Heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium–high heat and grill the
unpeeled garlic bulb, onions and ginger, turning often, for 15 minutes, or
until all sides are blackened. Cool slightly then, when cool enough to handle,
peel off the blackened skins and discard them, and then roughly chop. By
doing this, the garlic, onion and ginger become sweet and fragrant, releasing
more flavour into the stock.
Put the oxtail, beef bones, brisket and 6 litres (210 fl oz) of cold water in a
stockpot and bring to the boil. While the stock is boiling, constantly skim
any impurities off the surface for 15 minutes (this will ensure a clean, clear
broth), then reduce the heat to a low simmer. Add the fish sauce, remaining 1
tablespoon of salt, rock sugar, garlic, onion, ginger and spice pouch. Cover
and simmer for 4 hours, or until the stock has reduc
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This passage discusses: 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
8 cloves
5 star anise
2 x 10 cm (4 inch) pieces of cassia bark
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
40 cm (16 inch) square muslin cloth
METHOD
Fill a large saucepan with cold water, add 3 tablespoons of the salt, then
submerge the oxtail in the water. Soak for 1 hour, then drain.
To make the spice pouch, dry-roast each ingredient separately in a frying
pan over medium–low heat, shaking the pan constantly, for 1–2 minutes, or
until fragrant. Cool, then c...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Mrs Chan’s 150-year-old charcuterie
store
I AM WALKING AIMLESSLY UP AND DOWN Hang Bong Street in
the scorching heat, and have been doing so for twenty minutes now,
desperately searching for Madame Delphine’s favourite charcuterie store.
I’m about ready to give up.
I gulp down some more water and pour the rest over my head, then watch
as steam rises from my shoulders. It’s then that I notice a little store across
the road, sandwiched between two handicraft stores, a queue twenty deep
curling out the front door. The sign above says ‘Quoc Huong’. Finally, I’ve
found it!
The counter is stacked with pork terrines wrapped and bound in banana
leaf, the shelves behind are filled with jars of pork floss and every type of
pickle imaginable. Open trays of mayonnaise, pork and chicken liver pàté
have wooden spatulas in them, perfect for scooping up as much as you need.
Some people stock up on whole terrines and containers of pàté, while others
are here for just a few steamed fish cakes or pieces of dried beef to snack on.
The store has charm and character, a real artisan feel to it.
Towards the back there is a cooking area, the benches lined with old
blackened ovens. Cane baskets and plastic colanders are piled high, with
containers of spices and ingredients scattered on any available floor space.
Woks set on portable gas stoves are his sing and simmering with their lids
on; I’m intrigued as to what is cooking beneath.
An elderly woman stands behind the counter, greeting each of her
cust
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This passage discusses: Mrs Chan’s 150-year-old charcuterie
store
I AM WALKING AIMLESSLY UP AND DOWN Hang Bong Street in
the scorching heat, and have been doing so for twenty minutes now,
desperately searching for Madame Delphine’s favourite charcuterie store.
I’m about ready to give up.
I gulp down some more water and pour the rest over my head, then watch
as steam rises from my shoulders. It’s then that I notice a little store across
the road, sandwiched between two handicraft stores, a queue twenty deep
curling out ...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Chicken and pork liver pâté
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Pàté is found everywhere throughout Vietnam,
seemingly on every street corner, and always served
with a crisp baguette, another culinary legacy of the
French occupation.
INGREDIENTS
200 g (7 oz) pork livers
200 g (7 oz) chicken livers
100 g (3½ oz) butter, softened
100 g (3½ oz) minced (ground) pork
2 red Asian shallots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons brandy or Cognac
4 tablespoons pouring (whipping) cream
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
METHOD
Clean the livers of fat and sinew. Cut the pork livers to match the size of the
chicken livers. Wash under cold water, dry well with kitchen paper and set
aside.
Put 2 teaspoons of the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat.
When the butter starts to bubble, add half the livers and fry for 1–2 minutes
until browned, then turn them over and brown the other side for 1–2
minutes, making sure the livers remain pink in the middle. Remove to a
plate, then repeat the process with a little more butter and the remaining
livers.
Add 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan and gently cook the pork mince for
about 2 minutes, or until cooked through but not browned. Remove and set
aside. Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper, then add 2 teaspoons of butter
and gently fry the shallots and garlic for 5 minutes, or until very soft and
slightly caramelised. Increase the heat, then return the liv
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This passage discusses: Chicken and pork liver pâté
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Pàté is found everywhere throughout Vietnam,
seemingly on every street corner, and always served
with a crisp baguette, another culinary legacy of the
French occupation.
INGREDIENTS
200 g (7 oz) pork livers
200 g (7 oz) chicken livers
100 g (3½ oz) butter, softened
100 g (3½ oz) minced (ground) pork
2 red Asian shallots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tablespoons brandy or Cognac
4 tablespoons pouring (whipping) cr...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Chef Didier Corlou
IT’S 5 PM AND THE SUN IS BEGINNING TO set. It’s the perfect time
to chat to a chef: lunch service is finished and preparations for dinner are
almost complete. The evening sky is a stunning purplish pink and there’s a
rare cool breeze in the air, so I decide to walk. I’m on my way to meet Didier
Corlou, a master chef originally from Brittany in France. I have heard so
much about Didier, but have never had the chance to meet him in person.
Didier’s restaurant, the much-renowned La Verticale, is located on a quiet
tree-lined street called Ngo Van So, not too far from the city centre. My jaw
drops as I arrive and take in the sight before me. What a dream to have a
restaurant like this, set in a classic art deco 1930s four-storey French villa, a
building steeped in so much history and with so much charm!
I pick up the perfume of aromatic spices as I enter the front room. I feel as
if I’ve walked into an Asian apothecary as I find myself surrounded by huge
coils of cinnamon, jars of star anise, sichuan peppers and coriander seeds.
There is an assortment of aged fish sauce, pink nuoc mam salt, Phu Quoc
peppers, home-made goat’s cheese, curry powder concoctions in test tubes,
and shelves stocked with Didier’s cookbooks. The building retains its
original tiles and walls; the kitchen is the only modern thing in sight. I spot
Didier from afar; he is being interviewed by a camera crew. He stops and
waves at me, signalling that he won’t be long.
Minutes later he greets
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This passage discusses: Chef Didier Corlou
IT’S 5 PM AND THE SUN IS BEGINNING TO set. It’s the perfect time
to chat to a chef: lunch service is finished and preparations for dinner are
almost complete. The evening sky is a stunning purplish pink and there’s a
rare cool breeze in the air, so I decide to walk. I’m on my way to meet Didier
Corlou, a master chef originally from Brittany in France. I have heard so
much about Didier, but have never had the chance to meet him in person.
Didier’s restaurant, the much-renowned ...
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am_thuc
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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times of poor health, but nowadays it is eaten at any time of day, most often
as street food. While pho is known andloved all over Vietnam, it is claimed
that Hanoi is the best place to go for pho.
As I had suspected, the exact origins of pho are a mystery and no one
seems to know for sure if it wasa Vietnamese creation or if it was adapted
from a blend of culinary traditions, although most will agree that there are
definite French and Chinese influences.
The presentation of the food is truly
exceptional, the balance of flavours and textures
is incredible … For me, this meal is the perfect
representation of the evolution of Vietnamese
cuisine.
Didier’s booklet explains that Nguyen Dinh Rao, president of the Unesco
Gastronomy Club in Hanoi, insists that the birthplace of pho was in Nam
Dinh city, in the Red River Delta in northern Vietnam. He claims that at the
beginning of the twentieth century a large textile industry was established
there, and many of the new city workers and French and Vietnamese soldiers
all wanted a dish that was less rustic than the traditional soups of the area.
The bouillon and the rice noodles are distinctly Vietnamese he claims, but to
meet the taste of the Europeans, beef and other ingredients were added.
One theory is that the word pho comes from a corruption of the French
feu, meaning fire. Others agree that pho was inspired by the boiled French
dish, le pot au feu. Didier agrees, pointing out that pot au feu and pho stock
are both made using mar
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This passage discusses: times of poor health, but nowadays it is eaten at any time of day, most often
as street food. While pho is known andloved all over Vietnam, it is claimed
that Hanoi is the best place to go for pho.
As I had suspected, the exact origins of pho are a mystery and no one
seems to know for sure if it wasa Vietnamese creation or if it was adapted
from a blend of culinary traditions, although most will agree that there are
definite French and Chinese influences.
The presentation of the food is truly
ex...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Stephan, Tin and the Green Tangerine
HANOI ON A SATURDAY NIGHT — I HAVE NEVER seen anything
like it. The streets are heaving with people and motorbikes. It’s anarchy on
the roads: the motorised do as they please, riding up onto the footpaths,
honking their horns and bullying the pedestrians out of their way. I am one
of those on foot and even I can barely walk, yet despite the snail’s pace at
which we all move, no one complains.
Saturday night is market night. The surrounding streets of the Old Quarter
have been closed and vendors are now free to sprawl their goods onto the
streets. Fake Gucci boots are up for sale alongside flash-fried nem rolls
filled with crab, prawns and pork; frogs’ legs, chilli and lemongrass are
tossed in a flaming wok beside a stand that sells propaganda postcards. A
balloon seller pushes past, struggling to control a bunch of balloons so large
that I wonder why they haven’t lifted her up into the clouds. Everything is
happening here and there’s nothing you can’t find.
I manage to break free from the human traffic and head towards my
destination. I have arranged to meet one of Hanoi’s leading restaurateurs,
and we’ve planned to meet at a popular food stand.
Stephan and his wife, Tin, are already there, sitting kerb side with a beer
in hand. I notice that they’re both smartly dressed; very appropriate attire I
think to myself, as street food is such a theatrical experience. This place
serves only two dishes: bo nuong vi, marinated beef cooked at the ta
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This passage discusses: Stephan, Tin and the Green Tangerine
HANOI ON A SATURDAY NIGHT — I HAVE NEVER seen anything
like it. The streets are heaving with people and motorbikes. It’s anarchy on
the roads: the motorised do as they please, riding up onto the footpaths,
honking their horns and bullying the pedestrians out of their way. I am one
of those on foot and even I can barely walk, yet despite the snail’s pace at
which we all move, no one complains.
Saturday night is market night. The surrounding streets of the Old ...
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am_thuc
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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I left my job and began to cook more and more,
re-creating all the wonderful food my parents
cooked in France, using imported French
ingredients to cook Vietnamese food.
‘The only positive thing we knew about Vietnam was its food. Every day,
my parents used French ingredients to cook authentic Vietnamese dishes.
As I grew older I began to wonder why we weren’t allowed to talk about
Vietnam yet we were eating Vietnamese cuisine on a daily basis.
Determined to discover my heritage, I rebelled. At family gatherings I
would ask uncles, aunties and grandparents about Vietnam’s culture and
traditions. When they were all gathered together as a family, it was so
obvious that there was more Vietnamese cultural energy than there was
French. So why were they all in such denial?
‘In 1993 I signed on for a job as an engineer in biology. We travelled to
Vietnam to screen for hepatitis and HIV. My family ordered me not to go,
but we all do what we are told not to.
‘My work eventually took me to Hanoi. At that stage I had been in
Vietnam for almost two years and I enjoyed every moment of it. One night
my friends and I visited a restaurant that served Pan-Asian cuisine; it was
new and different so I had to check it out. The food was delicious and the
business was run really well. It was owned by Tin and her family, and that’s
where we met. We had the same passion for food — and for each other. We
married not long after.
‘As my love for food grew, I left my job and began to cook more and
more,
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This passage discusses: I left my job and began to cook more and more,
re-creating all the wonderful food my parents
cooked in France, using imported French
ingredients to cook Vietnamese food.
‘The only positive thing we knew about Vietnam was its food. Every day,
my parents used French ingredients to cook authentic Vietnamese dishes.
As I grew older I began to wonder why we weren’t allowed to talk about
Vietnam yet we were eating Vietnamese cuisine on a daily basis.
Determined to discover my heritage, I rebelled. At ...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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cover with the lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling
water and steam for 8 minutes. Remove and set aside.
Meanwhile, blanch the spinach in boiling water for 30 seconds, then
refresh in iced water and drain. Divide the spinach leaves over the remaining
four 12 cm (4½ inch) pastry cutters, overlapping the leaves slightly to form a
star-like shape. Divide the warm steamed rice into four portions and mould
the steamed rice into the spinach-lined cutters, then enclose the leaves
around the rice and press down firmly to make a neat parcel. Set aside.
In a small saucepan, combine the passionfruit, sugar and lemon juice.
Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, or until the sugar dissolves and the
sauce thickens a little. Set aside.
Place a spinach parcel onto each serving plate, then remove the pastry
cutters. Place the steamed fish on top of the spinach and carefully remove
the pastry cutters. Pour 1 tablespoon of passionfruit sauce over the top and
garnish with a sprig of dill.
Meringue et passion
SERVES 4
INGREDIENTS
2 eggs, separated
170 g (6 oz) caster (superfine) sugar
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) strained passionfruit juice (about 8 passionfruit)
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) milk
1 tablespoon plain (all–purpose) flour
100 g (3½ oz) mascarpone
icing (confectioners’) sugar, for dusting (optional)
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2). Line a baking tray with baking
paper.
To make the meringues, use an electric mixer to whisk the egg whites until
soft peaks fo
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This passage discusses: cover with the lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling
water and steam for 8 minutes. Remove and set aside.
Meanwhile, blanch the spinach in boiling water for 30 seconds, then
refresh in iced water and drain. Divide the spinach leaves over the remaining
four 12 cm (4½ inch) pastry cutters, overlapping the leaves slightly to form a
star-like shape. Divide the warm steamed rice into four portions and mould
the steamed rice into the spinach-lined cutters, then enclose the lea...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Fried chocolate truffles with pink pepper
SERVES 4–6
This is one of Green Tangerine’s signature desserts. It
would have to be the most unusual chocolate dessert I
have ever seen, which is why I love it!
TRUFFLES
100 g (3½ oz) dark chocolate, chopped
30 ml (1 fl oz) thickened cream
20 g (¾ oz) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon ground pink peppercorns
BATTER
2 eggs
50 g (1¾ oz) sugar
100 g (3½ oz/2/3cup) plain (all–purpose) flour
25 g (1 oz) unsweetened cocoa powder, plus extra to serve
vegetable oil, for deep–frying
METHOD
To make the truffles, melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan
of simmering water. Add the cream, butter and pink pepper and mix well
until smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and press a piece of plastic
wrap onto the surface of the chocolate to prevent a skin forming.
Chill the chocolate mixture in the fridge for about 20 minutes, to firm up a
little. After this time, roll the chocolate into small marble-sized balls, or use
a melon baller to scoop the mixture into small balls, and arrange them on a
tray lined with baking paper. Place the tray and chocolate balls in the freezer
for 1 hour.
To make the batter, combine the eggs, sugar, flour and cocoa powder in a
mixing bowl. Mix together well, making sure you get rid of any lumps, then
slowly add 50 ml (1¾ fl oz) water, mixing well to form a smooth, thick
batter. Cover and set aside at room temperature for 10 minutes.
Half-fill a medium-sized saucepan with the oil and heat to 180°C (350°F),
or unti
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This passage discusses: Fried chocolate truffles with pink pepper
SERVES 4–6
This is one of Green Tangerine’s signature desserts. It
would have to be the most unusual chocolate dessert I
have ever seen, which is why I love it!
TRUFFLES
100 g (3½ oz) dark chocolate, chopped
30 ml (1 fl oz) thickened cream
20 g (¾ oz) unsalted butter
1 teaspoon ground pink peppercorns
BATTER
2 eggs
50 g (1¾ oz) sugar
100 g (3½ oz/2/3cup) plain (all–purpose) flour
25 g (1 oz) unsweetened cocoa powder, plus extra to serve
vegetable oil, fo...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Vietnamese workers and their French employer
In 1893, Swiss-born French physician Dr Alexandre Yersin, a protégé of
Dr Louis Pasteur, visited the region, its ever green trees and hills reminding
him of his homeland. So enamoured was he of the town’s charms, he
recommended the French colonial administration form a health resort in the
area. Soon hotels, chalets and villas began to spring up all over town, and
French government officials, military personnel and foreign dignitaries,
looking for a respite from the oppressive heat of the cities, flocked here on
weekends — a playground for the colony’s rich when en vacance.
The area became known as ‘le petit Paris’, and much of its French colonial
past is still evident today. One of the oldest French hotels still standing is the
luxurious Dalat Palace, built in 1922. It became the epicentre around which
the rest of the town developed, and housed the social elite. Hoping to get just
a glimpse of the glitz and glamour of life back then, I have booked a room
there.
As I wheel my bags out of the airport, my dream life begins to unfold. I
spot a man dressed in a black suit, standing in front of a beautifully restored
black and gold vintage Citroën, holding a sign: ‘Mr Luke Nguyen’.
‘That’s me! That’s me!’ I shriek as I run towards him, barely able to
contain my excitement. Not very cool, I must admit. I had seen this type of
car in Hanoi, but now I’m about to ride in one.
I nestle into the car’s soft, dark red seats and breathe in the
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This passage discusses: Vietnamese workers and their French employer
In 1893, Swiss-born French physician Dr Alexandre Yersin, a protégé of
Dr Louis Pasteur, visited the region, its ever green trees and hills reminding
him of his homeland. So enamoured was he of the town’s charms, he
recommended the French colonial administration form a health resort in the
area. Soon hotels, chalets and villas began to spring up all over town, and
French government officials, military personnel and foreign dignitaries,
looking for a r...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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in crisp starched whites and a very tall chef’s hat, comes out to check on my
meal. His name is Linh and he has been cooking in the Rabelais’ kitchen for
over fifteen years. He tells me that in the early 1900s Dalat was well known
as good hunting grounds for wild boar, black bears, deer, panthers, tigers,
elephants and peacocks, and that guests once stood out on the restaurant
balcony and shot these animals for entertainment. Sadly, hunting was so
popular in Dalat that most of these animals no longer exist here.
But I’m not interested in hunting, I want to learn more about the fresh
herbs and vegetables that grow so abundantly throughout Dalat, which
varieties were introduced by the French and what other foods and influences
they brought with them. I ask chef Linh where he sources his produce. He
tells me he has many suppliers, but one grower in particular supplies all of
his European herbs, such as thyme, sage and rosemary — a small farm just
on the outskirts of town called the Golden Garden.
The sun is shining but the air is cool so I wrap myself in a scarf, borrow a
motorbike from the hotel and head to the hills, to embark on my French
discovery tour of Dalat.
The Palace’s vintage Citroën
Dalat Palace in the early 1900s.
Chargrilled beef and asparagus mustard rolls
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED STARTER
Dijon mustard is a fantastic French ingredient that the
Vietnamese now enjoy using in many of their dishes.
Here the mustard is married with the Asian flavours
of soy and
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This passage discusses: in crisp starched whites and a very tall chef’s hat, comes out to check on my
meal. His name is Linh and he has been cooking in the Rabelais’ kitchen for
over fifteen years. He tells me that in the early 1900s Dalat was well known
as good hunting grounds for wild boar, black bears, deer, panthers, tigers,
elephants and peacocks, and that guests once stood out on the restaurant
balcony and shot these animals for entertainment. Sadly, hunting was so
popular in Dalat that most of these animals no l...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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1 bird’s eye chilli, sliced
METHOD
Peel the pomelo and then roughly segment it by simply tearing small pieces
with your hands, doing your best to remove the tough outer pith. Put the
pomelo in a mixing bowl with the green mango, herbs, spring onion and
fried garlic. Dress with the dipping fish sauce and set aside.
Heat the oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of
bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Pat the crabs dry with
kitchen paper, then cut each crab in half and dust with the potato starch.
Working in small batches, deep-fry the crabs for 4 minutes, carefully turning
them over in the oil after 2 minutes, until crisp. Remove and place on
kitchen paper to absorb the excess oil.
Arrange the salad on a platter. Place the crabs on top and garnish with the
peanuts, fried shallots and chilli.
Note To prepare the green mango, first peel and cut off the flesh in thin
slices around the stone, then slice into fine julienne. Alternatively, you can
use a serrated vegetable shredder, known as a kom kom peeler (sold in Asian
food stores), to do this.
Quail cooked in orange and coconut water
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Quails are really enjoyable to eat; they are full of
flavour, inexpensive and incredibly versatile. The
trick to a perfectly cooked quail is to always keep it
moist, so don’t forget to baste the quail during
cooking time.
INGREDIENTS
6 quails
40 g (1½ oz) butter
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) young coconut water (or chicken stock)
125 m
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This passage discusses: 1 bird’s eye chilli, sliced
METHOD
Peel the pomelo and then roughly segment it by simply tearing small pieces
with your hands, doing your best to remove the tough outer pith. Put the
pomelo in a mixing bowl with the green mango, herbs, spring onion and
fried garlic. Dress with the dipping fish sauce and set aside.
Heat the oil in a wok or deep-fryer to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of
bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Pat the crabs dry with
kitchen paper, then cut each crab in ha...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Using a mortar and pestle, pound the prawns into a fine paste. Place into a
mixing bowl and add half the dill, the fish sauce, garlic, salt and pepper.
Using your hands, mix everything together for 2 minutes, or until combined
well. Take a teaspoon of the paste and carefully stuff each pumpkin flower.
Fill a wok or deep-fryer one-third full of oil and heat to 180°C (350°F), or
until a cube of bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Meanwhile,
put the egg whites into a bowl and beat well. Put the potato starch into
another bowl. Carefully dip each filled pumpkin flower into the egg white to
coat. Drain off the excess, then dust each flower with the potato starch until
dry. Shake off the excess starch, then deep-fry the flowers in three batches
for 3–4 minutes, or until crisp, being careful that they don’t brown too much.
Remove and place on kitchen paper to drain.
Place the pumpkin flowers on a platter and garnish with the remaining dill
and the violets, if using. Serve with lime wedges to squeeze over.
Wines of the Central Highlands
I’M ON MY MOTORBIKE, JUST MOMENTS OUT of town, when it
begins to storm in thick, heavy drops of rain that hurt when they hit my skin.
The dirt road quickly turns to mud, so I hurry to find some shelter. I pull into
a place that has a distinct German–French feel to it — something you might
see in Alsace — and, to my surprise, it’s a winery. I can’t believe it: a wine
producer in Vietnam!
Keen to sample some wine, I search for a cellar doo
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This passage discusses: Using a mortar and pestle, pound the prawns into a fine paste. Place into a
mixing bowl and add half the dill, the fish sauce, garlic, salt and pepper.
Using your hands, mix everything together for 2 minutes, or until combined
well. Take a teaspoon of the paste and carefully stuff each pumpkin flower.
Fill a wok or deep-fryer one-third full of oil and heat to 180°C (350°F), or
until a cube of bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Meanwhile,
put the egg whites into a bowl and beat well...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Rabbit in red wine
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
This dish originated in the late 1800s and was
traditionally cooked with red wine. Today some
Vietnamese families prefer to cook the rabbit in rice
wine. Start this dish a day ahead, to allow enough
time for marinating the rabbit.
INGREDIENTS
1 whole farmed rabbit (1.5 kg/3 lb 5 oz)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
20 g (¾ oz) butter
6 garlic cloves, chopped
8 thyme sprigs
2 star anise
4 cloves
100 g (3½ oz) smoked bacon, cut into
1 cm (½ inch) dice
100 g (3½ oz) chicken and pork liver pâté
4 carrots, peeled and sliced into 2 cm (¾ inch) thick pieces
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
MARINADE
750 ml (26 fl oz) pinot noir
1 brown onion, chopped
2 fresh or dried bay leaves
2 sage sprigs
2 thyme sprigs
2 rosemary sprigs
4 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon fish sauce
6 garlic cloves, chopped
METHOD
To prepare the rabbit, first discard the head and then chop the rabbit into 7
pieces. To do this, cut the legs off the rabbit, then cut each leg in half. Cut
the body into 3 pieces widthways. Reserve the rabbit liver and dice it.
Combine all the marinade ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Add the
rabbit pieces and turn to coat in the marinade, then cover and place in the
fridge to marinate overnight. Drain the rabbit well, reserving the marinade.
Place a large saucepan over medium heat, then add the oil and butter.
When the butter starts to foam, add the garlic and thyme and cook until
fragrant. Add the star ani
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This passage discusses: Rabbit in red wine
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
This dish originated in the late 1800s and was
traditionally cooked with red wine. Today some
Vietnamese families prefer to cook the rabbit in rice
wine. Start this dish a day ahead, to allow enough
time for marinating the rabbit.
INGREDIENTS
1 whole farmed rabbit (1.5 kg/3 lb 5 oz)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
20 g (¾ oz) butter
6 garlic cloves, chopped
8 thyme sprigs
2 star anise
4 cloves
100 g (3½ oz) smoked bacon, cut into
1 cm (½ inch) d...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Add 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan and gently cook the pork mince for
about 2 minutes, or until cooked through but not browned. Remove and set
aside. Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper, then add 2 teaspoons of butter
and gently fry the shallots and garlic for 5 minutes, or until very soft and
slightly caramelised. Increase the heat, then return the livers and pork to the
pan, pour over the brandy or Cognac and ignite the alcohol. Once the flame
subsides, pour the liver mixture into a food processor and process until
smooth. With the motor running, add the remaining butter and the cream.
Season the pàté with the sugar, salt and white pepper; taste and adjust the
seasoning if necessary. Pour into a container and refrigerate for about 2
hours, or until set. Before serving, remove from the fridge and let stand at
room temperature for 30 minutes. Serve with baguettes.
Beef tongue slow-braised in red wine
SERVES 6–8 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Beef tongue can be hard to find, so be sure to order it
ahead of time from your local Asian butcher.
INGREDIENTS
1 beef tongue (800 g/1 lb 12 oz)
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) pinot noir
3 garlic cloves, chopped
generous pinch of salt and ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
8 red Asian shallots, peeled and halved
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon tomato paste (concentrated purée)
2 tablespoons sugar
4 carrots, peeled and sliced
350 ml (12 fl oz) young coconut water
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
METHOD
Place
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This passage discusses: Add 1 tablespoon of butter to the pan and gently cook the pork mince for
about 2 minutes, or until cooked through but not browned. Remove and set
aside. Wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper, then add 2 teaspoons of butter
and gently fry the shallots and garlic for 5 minutes, or until very soft and
slightly caramelised. Increase the heat, then return the livers and pork to the
pan, pour over the brandy or Cognac and ignite the alcohol. Once the flame
subsides, pour the liver mixture into a food ...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Combine the bay leaves, thyme, red wine and half the fish sauce in a large
mixing bowl. Add the chicken and toss to coat in the marinade, then cover
and place in the fridge to marinate for 2 hours, or overnight for a better
flavour.
Put the dried mushrooms in a bowl, cover with water and soak for 20
minutes, then drain.
Heat a frying pan over medium heat, then add half of the butter. When the
butter begins to bubble, add the shallots and mushrooms and sauté for 5
minutes, or until the shallots are browned. Remove and set aside.
Drain the chicken and pat dry, reserving the marinade. Add the oil and the
remaining butter to a large frying pan and seal the chicken on all sides until
nice and golden. Sprinkle over the flour and stir to coat all the chicken, then
add the reserved marinade, shallots, mushrooms, coconut water, tomato
paste and remaining fish sauce. Bring to the boil, then skim off any
impurities that rise to the surface. Reduce the heat to a low simmer and
cook for 1 hour, or until the chicken drumsticks are tender. Garnish with the
coriander and serve with baguettes.
Miss Huong in her Golden Garden
I MAKE MY WAY DOWN A NARROW WINDING path to the Golden
Garden. Twenty or so ladies, all dressed in black and wearing conical hats,
squat as they tend to their crops. Each woman carries a cane basket on her
hip as she makes her way down lush green fields. The women work quickly
and efficiently, plucking green vegetables out of the ground and then
bundling them into bunche
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This passage discusses: Combine the bay leaves, thyme, red wine and half the fish sauce in a large
mixing bowl. Add the chicken and toss to coat in the marinade, then cover
and place in the fridge to marinate for 2 hours, or overnight for a better
flavour.
Put the dried mushrooms in a bowl, cover with water and soak for 20
minutes, then drain.
Heat a frying pan over medium heat, then add half of the butter. When the
butter begins to bubble, add the shallots and mushrooms and sauté for 5
minutes, or until the shallots a...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Heart of palm and tomato salad with
Vietnamese herbs
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Heart of palm, or palm heart, is a versatile ingredient
that I’ve been using quite a lot lately as I love its light,
almost sweet flavour and crunchy texture. Heart of
palm can be served raw in salads, stir-fried or
steamed.
INGREDIENTS
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) fresh heart of palm (or use tinned)
6 cherry tomatoes, sliced lengthways into quarters
½ red onion, thinly sliced
5 perilla leaves, thinly sliced
5 Vietnamese mint leaves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon fried garlic
MANDARIN DRESSING
2 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar
100 ml (3½ fl oz) mandarin juice
2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 bird’s eye chilli, thinly sliced
METHOD
To make the mandarin dressing, put the sugar in a bowl with the mandarin
juice and stir to dissolve the sugar. Add the vinegar, fish sauce, olive oil,
garlic and chilli and stir well.
To prepare the fresh palm hearts, rinse them in cold water and remove any
fibrous, tough material surrounding the heart. Place the palm hearts in a
bowl of cold water and soak for 1 hour, then drain and slice into thin 10 x 1
cm (4 x ½ inch) strips.
Combine the palm heart strips, tomatoes, onion, perilla, Vietnamese mint
and 4 tablespoons of the mandarin dressing in a mixing bowl. Transfer to a
serving platter and garnish with the fried garlic.
Note Leftover mandarin dressing can be stored in a jar in the ref
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This passage discusses: Heart of palm and tomato salad with
Vietnamese herbs
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Heart of palm, or palm heart, is a versatile ingredient
that I’ve been using quite a lot lately as I love its light,
almost sweet flavour and crunchy texture. Heart of
palm can be served raw in salads, stir-fried or
steamed.
INGREDIENTS
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) fresh heart of palm (or use tinned)
6 cherry tomatoes, sliced lengthways into quarters
½ red onion, thinly sliced
5 perilla leaves, thinly sliced
5 Vietname...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
minutes, charring the sides. Add the fish sauce, sugar and pepper and wok-
toss for a further 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, garlic chives and spring
onion and wok-toss for another 2 minutes. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.
A farmers’ market and more
IT’S 5 AM AND MY HANDS ARE TURNING NUMB AS I walk
through the mist on my way to the market. Farmers in trucks lower their
trays and fresh produce tumbles out onto the street outside the market.
Vendors shout and scream at the growers as they haggle for the best possible
price. It seems as though they are arguing, but this is their style of business.
Big rusted scales struggle to weigh mounds of passionfruit, avocado,
artichokes, cabbage, kohlrabi, chokos and pumpkins. Food vendors want
part of the action, so they too come out to play, selling warm sticky rice with
red beans, thick pork congee and steaming bowls of noodle soup. But it’s not
only fruit and vegetables available here; freshly slaughtered buffalo, pig and
goat are also on offer alongside growers selling buckets upon buckets of
roses, orchids, sunflowers and blossoms, which illuminate the grey morning
in magnificent colour. Strawberries are artfully arranged and become part of
the visual feast. I’m surprised to see strawberries grown in Vietnam, so I
stop to sample one. I’m doubtful of its quality as the colour is not as red as
the ones at home, and the shape is long and not as spherical. But so little do I
know — these are the best strawberries I have ever tasted: per
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This passage discusses: minutes, charring the sides. Add the fish sauce, sugar and pepper and wok-
toss for a further 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, garlic chives and spring
onion and wok-toss for another 2 minutes. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.
A farmers’ market and more
IT’S 5 AM AND MY HANDS ARE TURNING NUMB AS I walk
through the mist on my way to the market. Farmers in trucks lower their
trays and fresh produce tumbles out onto the street outside the market.
Vendors shout and scream at the growers as they haggle ...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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bucket to the stalls below and shout out their order of herbs and vegetables.
Money is taken and orders are placed in the bucket; the cooks pull up the
rope, collect their goods and off they go — chopping, slicing, dicing, pulling
fragrant herbs off their stalks. It is the most entertaining, exciting and
theatrical way of shopping and cooking that I’ve ever seen.
Woks fire up and I breathe in deeply the aromas of sautéed garlic, chilli
and lemongrass. There’s movement and colour all around and I am enjoying
every moment. A clatter of plates and bowls and service begins — chicken
roti; pork cutlets and broad beans; catfish cooked in caramel sauce; warm
beef and watercress salad; and caramelised pork belly with quail eggs.
As the morning mist begins to lift, making way for a crisp, sunny morning,
locals begin to arrive for their daily purchases. From above I watch how
pedantic the Vietnamese people are in choosing their produce as they look
for the perfect chilli and the freshest bean. Today they only buy in small
quantities; tomorrow is a new day and they will return to the market to do it
all over again.
Warm beef and watercress salad
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Vietnamese salads were known as ‘goi’ before the
French arrived and introduced ‘xa lat’, which were
salads with a vinaigrette dressing.
INGREDIENTS
1 bunch watercress, picked
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1 tomato, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
300 g (10½ oz) beef si
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This passage discusses: bucket to the stalls below and shout out their order of herbs and vegetables.
Money is taken and orders are placed in the bucket; the cooks pull up the
rope, collect their goods and off they go — chopping, slicing, dicing, pulling
fragrant herbs off their stalks. It is the most entertaining, exciting and
theatrical way of shopping and cooking that I’ve ever seen.
Woks fire up and I breathe in deeply the aromas of sautéed garlic, chilli
and lemongrass. There’s movement and colour all around and I...
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am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Caramelised pork belly with quail eggs
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Traditionally this dish is cooked with chicken eggs,
but the cooks at the Dalat markets serve it with quail
eggs, so I gave it a go and it was delicious. Use fresh
young coconut water if you can source it, as the
tinned variety has three per cent added sugar and will
make this dish far too sweet.
INGREDIENTS
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) boneless pork belly (see note)
220 g (7¾ oz/1 cup) sugar
1.5 litres (52 fl oz/6 cups) young coconut water
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) fish sauce
5 spring onions (scallions), white part only, bashed
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground white pepper
12 quail eggs
6 bird’s eye chillies, left whole
steamed jasmine rice, to serve
METHOD
Cut the pork belly into 4 x 2 cm (1½ x ¾ inch) pieces and set aside.
To make the caramel, put the sugar and 2 tablespoons of water in a large
saucepan and place over high heat. Cook for 5–6 minutes, stirring
occasionally, or until the sugar becomes a rich golden colour, then carefully
add the pork pieces to the pan. Stir to coat the pork with the caramel.
Add the coconut water and slowly bring to the boil, skimming off the fat
and impurities that rise to the surface. Reduce the heat to a simmer, then add
the fish sauce, spring onion, salt and white pepper. Cook for 1 hour, or until
the pork is tender.
Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Reduce to a simmer,
then carefully submerge the quail eggs in the water and cook for 5 minutes.
(You can use a
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This passage discusses: Caramelised pork belly with quail eggs
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Traditionally this dish is cooked with chicken eggs,
but the cooks at the Dalat markets serve it with quail
eggs, so I gave it a go and it was delicious. Use fresh
young coconut water if you can source it, as the
tinned variety has three per cent added sugar and will
make this dish far too sweet.
INGREDIENTS
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) boneless pork belly (see note)
220 g (7¾ oz/1 cup) sugar
1.5 litres (52 fl oz/6 cups) young coconu...
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am_thuc
|
en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
I hand over my money and she passes me a pork roll, or bahn mi thit —
one of the most popular and internationally known Vietnamese dishes today;
it’s the perfect marriage of French and Vietnamese ingredients and flavours.
Over the years the Vietnamese have tweaked the traditional French
baguette and adapted it to suit the Vietnamese palate and style of cuisine.
The Vietnamese baguette is more fluffy and crispy than the French one; it’s
designed to be a lighter bread so as not to overwhelm the fillings. Today,
baguettes are found on most street corners and restaurants in Vietnam. They
are eaten in the morning with soft fried eggs and omelettes, eaten for lunch
with a variety of delectable fillings, and eaten in the evenings dipped into
curries or slow-braised dishes to soak and scoop up all the delicious sauce.
Vietnamese baguette
MAKES 8
Baguettes are one of the greatest things the French
introduced to Vietnam! They have become as much a
staple for the Vietnamese as they are for the French.
INGREDIENTS
160 g (5¾ oz/1 cup) rice flour
675 g (1 lb 8 oz/4½ cups) unbleached plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra for
dusting
2 teaspoons baking powder
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) lukewarm water
1 tablespoon active dried yeast
1½ teaspoons sugar
1½ teaspoons salt
water spray
METHOD
Combine the rice flour, 150 g (5½ oz/1 cup) of the plain flour and the baking
powder in a bowl and set aside.
Pour the water into the bowl of an electric mixer with a dough hook
attachment. Sprinkle the yeast
|
This passage discusses: I hand over my money and she passes me a pork roll, or bahn mi thit —
one of the most popular and internationally known Vietnamese dishes today;
it’s the perfect marriage of French and Vietnamese ingredients and flavours.
Over the years the Vietnamese have tweaked the traditional French
baguette and adapted it to suit the Vietnamese palate and style of cuisine.
The Vietnamese baguette is more fluffy and crispy than the French one; it’s
designed to be a lighter bread so as not to overwhelm the fi...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
2 red Asian shallots, chopped
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) young coconut water
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon annatto oil
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon tomato paste (concentrated purée)
1 tablespoon potato starch
METHOD
To make the pork balls, pound the prawns using a mortar and pestle into a
paste. Put the prawn paste in a bowl with the remaining ingredients for the
pork balls and use your hands to combine well. Roll the mixture into 12 balls
the size of golf balls or use a spoon to scoop the mixture into balls.
Place each pork ball in a Chinese teacup or small rice bowl. Working in
batches, place the teacups in a metal or bamboo steamer and cover with the
lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and
steam for 15 minutes. Reserve the liquid that forms in the cup or bowl.
To make the sauce, place a large saucepan over medium heat. When the
pan is hot, add the oil, garlic and shallots and sauté for 2–3 minutes, or until
fragrant. Add the coconut water, sugar, soy sauce, fish sauce, annatto oil,
sesame oil and tomato paste. Season well with ground black pepper. Bring to
the boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Dissolve the potato starch in 1
tablespoon of water, then slowly add to the sauce, stirring until it thickens.
Carefully slide the steamed pork balls and their juice into the saucepan and
simmer for a further 5 minutes. Remove the pork balls from the pan,
reserving the sauce.
Split the baguettes in half l
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This passage discusses: 2 red Asian shallots, chopped
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) young coconut water
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon annatto oil
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon tomato paste (concentrated purée)
1 tablespoon potato starch
METHOD
To make the pork balls, pound the prawns using a mortar and pestle into a
paste. Put the prawn paste in a bowl with the remaining ingredients for the
pork balls and use your hands to combine well. Roll the mixture into 12 balls
the size o...
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am_thuc
|
en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
home and four generations of our family have lived here. They loved
Vietnam and its people, and they treated their workers with great respect. We
eventually left in the late 1950s, but as I got older my hunger to return to my
country of birth grew stronger. I missed the lifestyle, the weather, the people
and, of course, the food. I returned to Dalat in 1999 to continue what my
grandparents started and what my parents had left behind. I searched for
months, tracking down the land where my family had their plantations, and
in doing so I was reunited with two of the people who used to work for my
grandparents. I couldn’t believe it!
‘Like my grandparents, I also bought land, set up a company called
Jangada and have hired these same two people to grow and produce Arabica
coffee and harvest honey. This was my destiny. Now I employ dozens of
local ethnic people from surrounding villages to grow the best coffee in
Dalat, to make French butter biscuits and produce A-grade honey.’
As I sip on the dark coffee, I can taste all the
care and work that went into it. Ca Bang is
right. Even though I usually drink my coffee
with milk and sugar, I simply don’t need it. It is
delightfully aromatic, strong in taste and colour,
and not at all bitter.
I listen to Pierre, astounded. I am so impressed with his determination,
vision, passion and love for Vietnam and its people. And I can’t believe that
he had found the same two people who once worked for his grandparents all
those years ago. He happi
|
This passage discusses: home and four generations of our family have lived here. They loved
Vietnam and its people, and they treated their workers with great respect. We
eventually left in the late 1950s, but as I got older my hunger to return to my
country of birth grew stronger. I missed the lifestyle, the weather, the people
and, of course, the food. I returned to Dalat in 1999 to continue what my
grandparents started and what my parents had left behind. I searched for
months, tracking down the land where my family ...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Pierre introduces me to an elderly couple, Ha Bang and Ca Bang, who
gently take me by the arm and warmly invite me into their home. We walk
past a copper kettle boiling on an open fire in the yard, and enter a dimly lit
room. Ha Bang sits next to me at the long dusty table and rests his hand on
mine. His palms are rough from hard work, deep wrinkles across his
forehead tell many stories, and his dark skin and distinct facial features —
which to me look more American Indian than Vietnamese — are unlike any
other minority group in Vietnam.
‘This is the coffee we produce here,’ says Ca Bang as she pours me some
coffee. ‘We usually don’t drink it with milk or sugar because it is better
black, and is already naturally sweet.’
Ha Bang tells me that it was Pierre’s grandfather who taught them how to
grow and produce such good coffee. ‘We have not changed the method
since,’ he says. ‘We still do it the original way, all by hand.
We harvest only once a year; we pick a tonne of berries and scatter them
around the village to dry in the sun for around ten to fifteen days. We pound
the dried berries in large stone mortars to remove the husks, then we double
roast the berries in huge hot woks. There is no added butter, oil or fish
sauce.’
Fish sauce? I had no idea the Vietnamese roasted their coffee with fish
sauce!
As I sip on the dark coffee, I can taste all the care and work that went into
it. Ca Bang is right. Even though I usually drink my coffee with milk and
sugar, I simply don’t ne
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This passage discusses: Pierre introduces me to an elderly couple, Ha Bang and Ca Bang, who
gently take me by the arm and warmly invite me into their home. We walk
past a copper kettle boiling on an open fire in the yard, and enter a dimly lit
room. Ha Bang sits next to me at the long dusty table and rests his hand on
mine. His palms are rough from hard work, deep wrinkles across his
forehead tell many stories, and his dark skin and distinct facial features —
which to me look more American Indian than Vietnamese — are ...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Green tea-smoked duck
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
It’s really quite easy to smoke foods and it adds so
much depth of flavour and wonderful aroma to a dish,
with very little effort. You can also use a hooded
barbecue to smoke your duck.
INGREDIENTS
½ teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
2 teaspoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 duck breasts, boneless, skin on
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 piece of cassia bark
2 star anise
40 g (1½ oz/½ cup) Vietnamese green tea
100 g (3½ oz/½ cup) soft brown sugar
100 g (3½ oz/½ cup) jasmine rice
2 spring onions (scallions), thinly sliced on the diagonal
1 handful coriander (cilantro) leaves
2 long red chillies, julienned
2 Vietnamese baguettes
light soy sauce and sliced red chilli, for dipping
METHOD
Combine the pepper, soy sauce, fish sauce and sesame oil in a large mixing
bowl, stirring to combine well. Add the duck, turn to coat in the marinade,
then cover and place in the fridge to marinate for 30 minutes.
Remove the duck from the marinade and drain off any excess marinade.
Place a frying pan over medium heat, then add the oil and seal and brown the
duck breasts, skin side down, for 3 minutes. Remove from the pan and set
aside.
Place a piece of foil in the base of a wok, then add the cassia bark, star
anise, green tea, brown sugar and rice. Place a small wire rack in the wok, to
sit over the aromatics, and cover the wok with a lid. Turn the heat to high
and heat until the wok begins to smoke, then place
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This passage discusses: Green tea-smoked duck
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
It’s really quite easy to smoke foods and it adds so
much depth of flavour and wonderful aroma to a dish,
with very little effort. You can also use a hooded
barbecue to smoke your duck.
INGREDIENTS
½ teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
2 teaspoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2 duck breasts, boneless, skin on
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 piece of cassia bark
2 star anise
40 g (1½ oz/½ cup) Vietnamese green tea
...
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am_thuc
|
en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Vietnam was everything I had imagined it to be: buffaloes ploughed the
fields, farmers tended to their vibrant green rice paddies, bicycles and cyclos
congested tree-lined streets, rickshaws rode high, elegant women wearing
traditional ao dai and locals in conical hats dotted kerbsides, eating street
food.
That first day, I noticed that many of the buildings had a very European
feel to them. Aunty pointed out a hotel called the Majestic, built by the
French in 1925. She told me that my parents used to go there on romantic
dates when they were in their early twenties. I was amazed at what I saw —
such huge decadent French buildings situated in the middle of a Vietnamese
city. I asked Aunty a million questions, eager to learn more about Saigon’s
past. As we rode through District 1, Aunty explained that during the French
occupation Saigon was the capital of the French colony of Cochin China,
and from 1955 to 1975 it was the capital of the independent state of South
Vietnam. In 1976, Saigon was officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City, after
Mr Ho Chi Minh, but the central part of the city is, today, still known as
Saigon.
I was amazed at what I saw — such huge
decadent French buildings situated in the
middle of a Vietnamese city. I asked Aunty a
million questions, eager to learn more about
Saigon’s past.
We continued on through the centre of town towards District 3. I wasn’t at
all hungry, but the scent of chargrilled lemongrass enticed us to stop. It is
always a bit daunting when tr
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This passage discusses: Vietnam was everything I had imagined it to be: buffaloes ploughed the
fields, farmers tended to their vibrant green rice paddies, bicycles and cyclos
congested tree-lined streets, rickshaws rode high, elegant women wearing
traditional ao dai and locals in conical hats dotted kerbsides, eating street
food.
That first day, I noticed that many of the buildings had a very European
feel to them. Aunty pointed out a hotel called the Majestic, built by the
French in 1925. She told me that my parents u...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Ben Thanh night markets, escargot
and frogs’ legs
I HAVE LEARNT TO LOVE THE NEW SAIGON, but on my first day
in the city I always head to the Ben Thanh night market for a tried and true
Saigon experience…
It is 4 pm and already Le Loi Street is gridlocked with motorbikes; the
traffic has come to a complete halt. I get off my motorbike taxi and decide
to walk. A few blocks later and the traffic still isn’t moving, and I soon see
why. More than a dozen street food vendors are wheeling their huge stalls
from their homes to the Ben Thanh markets. These vendors set up their
stalls every evening on the streets outside the markets, with some stalls
seating up to forty people. Amazingly, they pack all their cooking
equipment, tables, chairs, fresh ingredients and live seafood onto huge
trolleys and push them across town. I want to see how they construct these
mobile outdoor restaurants, so I sit on the kerb, order a soda chanh, which
is just like the popular French drink known as citron presse, made with
soda, lemon and sugar shaken with ice, and watch the theatre of the Ben
Thanh night market.
It takes less than an hour for them to set up. Metal frames are joined,
tarpaulin tops are secured, gas bottles are connected, tables and chairs are
set, menu boards are lit up — and they are open for business.
Five o’clock rolls in fast, and before you know it the surrounding streets
have become the liveliest place in town. Young Saigonese and tourists alike
come out to eat and experience stre
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This passage discusses: Ben Thanh night markets, escargot
and frogs’ legs
I HAVE LEARNT TO LOVE THE NEW SAIGON, but on my first day
in the city I always head to the Ben Thanh night market for a tried and true
Saigon experience…
It is 4 pm and already Le Loi Street is gridlocked with motorbikes; the
traffic has come to a complete halt. I get off my motorbike taxi and decide
to walk. A few blocks later and the traffic still isn’t moving, and I soon see
why. More than a dozen street food vendors are wheeling their huge st...
|
am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Snails cooked in lemongrass and chilli
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
If you love snails, you really must visit Saigon’s Ben
Thanh markets, where you’ll find over ten varieties of
snails on offer. If preparing them yourself, make sure
you soak the snails in salted water for ten minutes
before rinsing them under cold water. Repeat this
process three times to ensure they are clean and slime-
free.
INGREDIENTS
300 g (10½ oz) fresh snails in their shells
2 lemongrass stems, bruised and sliced into 4 cm (1½ inch) lengths
6 lemon leaves, bruised
4 cm (1½ inch) piece of ginger, pounded
2 long red chillies, pounded
DIPPING SAUCE
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon vinegar
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) water
1 bird’s eye chilli, chopped
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1 teaspoon chopped lemongrass, white part only
2 lemon leaves, thinly sliced
METHOD
Remove the snails from their shells, then wash both the snails and their
shells in salted water, leaving them to soak for 10 minutes before rinsing
under cold water. Repeat this process three times. Set aside.
To make the dipping sauce, combine all the ingredients in a bowl, stirring
well to dissolve the sugar.
Put 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) of water in a saucepan, then add the bruised
lemongrass, lemon leaves, ginger and chilli. Bring to the boil, then add the
snails. Cover the pan and cook for 5 minutes, or until tender. Transfer the
snails into a serving bowl and serve with the dipping sauce. Supply
toothpicks to pick the
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This passage discusses: Snails cooked in lemongrass and chilli
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
If you love snails, you really must visit Saigon’s Ben
Thanh markets, where you’ll find over ten varieties of
snails on offer. If preparing them yourself, make sure
you soak the snails in salted water for ten minutes
before rinsing them under cold water. Repeat this
process three times to ensure they are clean and slime-
free.
INGREDIENTS
300 g (10½ oz) fresh snails in their shells
2 lemongrass stems, bruised and sliced i...
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am_thuc
|
en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Scallops chargrilled in spring onion oil
SERVES 4–6 AS A SHARED STARTER
Spring onion oil is essential to Vietnamese cuisine,
but you won’t find it at Asian markets because it is so
simple to make. The French do a very similar dish
with grilled mussels.
INGREDIENTS
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) scallops in the shell, cleaned
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) vegetable oil
4 spring onions (scallions), green part only, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons crushed roasted peanuts
METHOD
Heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to medium heat. Add the scallops and
cook for about 5 minutes, or until they open.
Meanwhile, put the oil and spring onions in a saucepan over medium heat.
Cook the spring onions until they just start to simmer in the oil, then remove
the pan from the heat and allow to cool.
When the scallop shells open, remove and discard the upper shell, then
return the half shell to the grill and cook for about 2 minutes, or until you see
the scallops’ natural juices begin to simmer. Now add 1 teaspoon of the
spring onion oil and ½ teaspoon of roasted peanuts to each scallop. Cook for
a further 2 minutes, then transfer to a platter. Serve with a chilled beer.
Saigon to Paris and back again
I WALK DOWN A LONG HALLWAY DIMLY LIT WITH candles. The
walls are draped in red velvet and large smoking coils of incense hang from
the ceiling. A spiral staircase leads me to the entrance of the Temple Club.
The club is set in an old French colonial house that was built in the early
1900s. It was converted to a Chinese
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This passage discusses: Scallops chargrilled in spring onion oil
SERVES 4–6 AS A SHARED STARTER
Spring onion oil is essential to Vietnamese cuisine,
but you won’t find it at Asian markets because it is so
simple to make. The French do a very similar dish
with grilled mussels.
INGREDIENTS
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) scallops in the shell, cleaned
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) vegetable oil
4 spring onions (scallions), green part only, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons crushed roasted peanuts
METHOD
Heat a barbecue grill or chargrill pan to med...
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am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
David Thai (pictured in centre with red overalls) with his mother and father, siblings and cousins
‘My grandmother in France arranged the paperwork to get my brother and
me over there, and a year later we were living in Paris with her. She was like
a mother to us, but could only care for us for a few years before she became
too old to manage. My uncles were too poor and had families of their own to
look after, so I was put into a French orphanage.
‘When I was old enough, I enrolled in an Orphan Apprentice Cooking
Program. I completed a seven-year course in commercial cookery and
walked away with a diploma in French cooking and patisserie. My first job
as a chef was in Versailles, where I worked for two years, saving enough
money to buy myself a scooter and a return ticket to Saigon. I hadn’t been
back for twenty years. I went straight to my village and met up with my
family there. It was a very emotional experience for me; I cried for two days.
I learnt so much while working and cooking in
Saigon. I used my French cooking techniques
and experience and married it with Vietnamese
ingredients.
‘I couldn’t believe how much I missed my home country; I wanted to
come back for good, but how? I was now a French citizen. A few days later I
walked past the Grand Hyatt in Saigon, now known as the Park Hyatt, and
suddenly I knew what I had to do. I returned to France and applied for a job
at the Hyatt in Paris under Michelin Star chef Christophe David. He took me
under his wing and trai
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This passage discusses: David Thai (pictured in centre with red overalls) with his mother and father, siblings and cousins
‘My grandmother in France arranged the paperwork to get my brother and
me over there, and a year later we were living in Paris with her. She was like
a mother to us, but could only care for us for a few years before she became
too old to manage. My uncles were too poor and had families of their own to
look after, so I was put into a French orphanage.
‘When I was old enough, I enrolled in an Orphan...
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am_thuc
|
en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Prawn, mango and snow pea salad
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Traditional Vietnamese mango salads call for green
mangoes, but David’s French version uses semi-ripe
mangoes, which are softer in texture and are on the
sweeter side. Use the larger mango varieties for this
recipe, not the smaller ones that you would use green.
INGREDIENTS
120 g (4¼ oz) snow peas (mangetout)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
¼ red onion, thinly sliced
2 cm (¾ inch) piece of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
2 teaspoons sambal oelek
450 g (1 lb) large raw prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined, tails intact
juice of 2 limes
2 x 300 g (10½ oz) semi-ripe mangoes, peeled and julienned
coriander (cilantro) sprigs, to garnish
DRESSING
2 teaspoons dijon mustard
2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
METHOD
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the snow peas for 1 minute.
Drain and briefly refresh in cold water, then drain again. Slice the snow peas
lengthways.
To make the dressing, whisk together the mustard, vinegar and oil in a
bowl. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Toss the snow peas with the
dressing in a large mixing bowl and set aside.
Heat a wok over medium heat, then add the oil and cook the onion and
ginger for 3 minutes until caramelised. Add the sambal oelek and prawns
and stir-fry for 2 minutes, or until the prawns are just cooked. Deglaze with
the lime juice. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.
Add the prawns to the snow peas in the bowl, then add the mang
|
This passage discusses: Prawn, mango and snow pea salad
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Traditional Vietnamese mango salads call for green
mangoes, but David’s French version uses semi-ripe
mangoes, which are softer in texture and are on the
sweeter side. Use the larger mango varieties for this
recipe, not the smaller ones that you would use green.
INGREDIENTS
120 g (4¼ oz) snow peas (mangetout)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
¼ red onion, thinly sliced
2 cm (¾ inch) piece of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
2 teaspoon...
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am_thuc
|
en
|
Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Turn to coat the chicken pieces well in the marinade, then cover and place
in the fridge to marinate for 1 hour.
Heat a large saucepan or wok over high heat, then add the vegetable oil
and fry the remaining garlic for 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Now add the
chicken and seal on both sides until lightly browned. Add the tomato, carrot
and annatto oil. Stir, then add the coconut water, fish sauce, shallots, onion
and remaining sugar and salt. Bring to the boil, skimming off any impurities
that rise to the surface, then reduce the heat to medium–low and simmer for
40 minutes, uncovered, or until the chicken is cooked. Transfer the chicken
to a serving bowl. Garnish with the remaining peppercorns and serve with
crisp baguettes.
Note Try to source fresh young coconut water if you can, as the tinned
version has added sugar, making this dish too sweet.
Lobster tail wok-tossed with garlic and black
pepper
SERVES 4–6 AS A SHARED STARTER
David Thai had some awesome live lobsters in his
kitchen and we whipped up this dish in minutes.
Please never overcook your lobster; once they change
colour, they are pretty much done. This is a perfect
dish to cook on a boat or on the beach.
INGREDIENTS
4 small raw lobster tails, shells intact (about 150 g/5½ oz each)
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
50 g (1¾ oz) butter
4 garlic cloves, crushed
4 spring onions (scallions), cut into 4 cm (1½ inch) lengths
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cracked
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This passage discusses: Turn to coat the chicken pieces well in the marinade, then cover and place
in the fridge to marinate for 1 hour.
Heat a large saucepan or wok over high heat, then add the vegetable oil
and fry the remaining garlic for 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Now add the
chicken and seal on both sides until lightly browned. Add the tomato, carrot
and annatto oil. Stir, then add the coconut water, fish sauce, shallots, onion
and remaining sugar and salt. Bring to the boil, skimming off any impurities
that ri...
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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minutes, then pour in the cream. Bring to boiling point, then take the pan off
the heat. Set aside for 20 minutes for the flavours to infuse, then remove and
discard the mandarin peel.
Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2). In a clean saucepan, combine
the remaining mandarin juice, the brandy and Cointreau. Bring to the boil
and cook until the mixture is reduced by one-third.
In a mixing bowl, combine the remaining 100 g (3½ oz) of sugar, the eggs
and egg yolks, then whisk until the sugar dissolves. Add the egg mixture to
the cream mixture and stir. Now add this mixture to the reduced mandarin
juice and stir, then pour into the ramekins.
Place the ramekins into a deep baking tin. Pour enough hot water into the
tin to reach halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cook in the oven for 55–
60 minutes, or until the mixture is firm with a slight wobble. Remove from
the oven and allow to cool. To serve, gently run a knife around the edge of
each ramekin to loosen the custard, turn it upside down and allow the
caramel to fall out onto a serving plate.
Mrs Tuoc and her French heritage
I’M AT A FANCY HOTEL IN CENTRAL SAIGON where over thirty
wine makers and distributors from Australia are displaying their wines.
Local Vietnamese move from stall to stall, sniffing, swirling, sipping,
spitting. I feel like I’m in Sydney but I have to remind myself that I’m
actually in Saigon.
Mrs Tuoc as a baby.
Tuoc’s grandmother and her children.
Tuoc
It is unbelievable how much local palates have
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This passage discusses: minutes, then pour in the cream. Bring to boiling point, then take the pan off
the heat. Set aside for 20 minutes for the flavours to infuse, then remove and
discard the mandarin peel.
Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F/Gas 2). In a clean saucepan, combine
the remaining mandarin juice, the brandy and Cointreau. Bring to the boil
and cook until the mixture is reduced by one-third.
In a mixing bowl, combine the remaining 100 g (3½ oz) of sugar, the eggs
and egg yolks, then whisk until the sugar diss...
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am_thuc
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
several times for work, too.’
Intrigued by her background, I ask her to tell me more about her
grandfather and her French heritage. She tells me that we need to get a bottle
of wine and sit down, as it is a very long and complicated story…
‘What I am about to tell you, I only found out for myself just ten years
ago,’ she begins, and already I’m intrigued. ‘My grandfather, Henri
Cosserat, was one of the first troops of French soldiers to be deployed into
Cochin China, Vietnam, in 1890. Ten years later he met a lady from Hue
whom he married. I call her my grandmother, but she isn’t exactly.
‘Also living in Henri’s house was his wife’s seventeen-year-old niece.
Henri had an affair with the niece and she fell pregnant. The niece was too
afraid to tell him, so she told his wife instead.
‘In fear of losing face and dignity, the wife took the niece to a remote
village where she paid a friend to look after her niece during her pregnancy.
When she gave birth, her baby son was taken from her. The niece was
booted out of town and was told never to return and to never tell Henri about
the child. That child was my father.
‘Growing up, my father was told that his parents had died in a boat
accident and that he was one hundred per cent Vietnamese. He married my
mum in his twenties and they moved to Quan Nam province, where I was
born. When we moved to Saigon my father met a lady who came from the
same village where he had grown up. She told him that she knew his
adoptive parents well and al
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This passage discusses: several times for work, too.’
Intrigued by her background, I ask her to tell me more about her
grandfather and her French heritage. She tells me that we need to get a bottle
of wine and sit down, as it is a very long and complicated story…
‘What I am about to tell you, I only found out for myself just ten years
ago,’ she begins, and already I’m intrigued. ‘My grandfather, Henri
Cosserat, was one of the first troops of French soldiers to be deployed into
Cochin China, Vietnam, in 1890. Ten years ...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
At this point I have to interrupt and get another bottle of wine. I tell her
that her family story sounds like an episode from Days of Our Lives. She
laughs then tells me to drink up because there is a lot more to the drama.
I started to pursue an interest in the culinary
aspects of my French roots, and it really
changed the way I cook at home.
‘My father caught the first bus to Nha Trang, eager to find out more about
his parents. But the uncle, now in his nineties, denied everything and told my
father that he was mistaken. But my father persisted and would not leave
until his uncle gave him more information. The uncle soon gave in and told
my father everything, including news that his mother had another child. This
meant that my father had a half brother. But that wasn’t all; he also informed
my father that Henri also had another child named Maurice, who lives in
Toulon, France.
‘In just two days my poor father had found out that his parents didn’t
really die in a boat accident, that his father was French, that he has a half
brother from his mother’s side who lives in the same town as he, and that he
has another half brother from his father’s side who lives in France.
‘When my father told me this crazy story I wanted to go to France straight
away to meet Maurice. Growing up I was always teased at school for
looking more like a Westerner than a Vietnamese. I was the outcast. I was
never called by my name, but was always called Lai My, which means
‘Mixed Vietnamese American’.
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This passage discusses: At this point I have to interrupt and get another bottle of wine. I tell her
that her family story sounds like an episode from Days of Our Lives. She
laughs then tells me to drink up because there is a lot more to the drama.
I started to pursue an interest in the culinary
aspects of my French roots, and it really
changed the way I cook at home.
‘My father caught the first bus to Nha Trang, eager to find out more about
his parents. But the uncle, now in his nineties, denied everything and told my...
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am_thuc
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Pan-fried salmon in orange sauce
SERVES 2 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
I came across this dish at a traditional Vietnamese
restaurant in Saigon. I asked the chef where the dish
was from and she told me that the salmon was local,
from a small mountain village called Ta Phin in
northern Vietnam, home to the Red Dzao minority.
The water is very cold up there, making it a perfect
breeding place for salmon.
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon annatto oil
¼ teaspoon sweet paprika
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
400 g (14 oz) salmon fillet, skin on, pin-boned
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
20 g (¾ oz) butter
1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon potato starch
3 tablespoons orange juice
2 teaspoons sugar
1 long red chilli, julienned
5 coriander (cilantro) sprigs
METHOD
Combine the fish sauce, annatto oil, paprika, cinnamon and a pinch of salt
and pepper in a mixing bowl. Add the salmon and turn to coat in the
marinade, then cover and set aside at room temperature for 10 minutes.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in a large frying pan over medium–
high heat. Remove the salmon from the marinade and drain off the excess.
Add the salmon, skin side down, and cook for 3 minutes, or until the skin is
crisp and golden brown. Turn the fillet over and cook for a further minute,
then transfer to a serving plate. The salmon should still be pink in the
middle.
Meanwhile, heat the remaining oil and the butter in another frying pan
over medium heat. Add the leek and cook, stirring,
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This passage discusses: Pan-fried salmon in orange sauce
SERVES 2 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
I came across this dish at a traditional Vietnamese
restaurant in Saigon. I asked the chef where the dish
was from and she told me that the salmon was local,
from a small mountain village called Ta Phin in
northern Vietnam, home to the Red Dzao minority.
The water is very cold up there, making it a perfect
breeding place for salmon.
INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon annatto oil
¼ teaspoon sweet paprika
¼ teaspoon gro...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
drain well. Place each crab on a hard surface with its stomach facing up. In
at wisting motion, pull the legs and claws away from the body. Using both
hands, put your fingers under the edge of the shell between the crab’s body
and the shell. Pull apart in opposite directions until you hear a snapping
sound, then remove the stomach and any visible membranes. Crack open the
legs and pick the meat out. Use a spoon to scoop out the flesh in the main
body of the crab. Wash and dry the four top shells.
Put the dried mushrooms in a bowl, cover with water and soak for 20
minutes, then drain and thinly slice. Put the bean thread noodles in a bowl,
cover with water and soak for 20 minutes, then drain. Use kitchen scissors to
cut them into 3 cm (1¼ inch) lengths.
In a mixing bowl, combine the crabmeat, mushrooms, noodles, garlic,
shallots, spring onion, egg yolks, soy sauce, fish sauce and the salt and
pepper. Mix the ingredients well. Stuff the crab mixture evenly into the crab
shells.
Place the filled crab shells in a metal or bamboo steamer and cover with
the lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and
steam for 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.
Fill a wok or deep-fryer one-third full of oil and heat to 180°C (350°F), or
until a cube of bread dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Carefully
slide the shells into the oil, shell side down first, and flash-fry for 1 minute
on each side. Remove and drain on kitchen paper. Serve with lime wedges,
and a smal
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This passage discusses: drain well. Place each crab on a hard surface with its stomach facing up. In
at wisting motion, pull the legs and claws away from the body. Using both
hands, put your fingers under the edge of the shell between the crab’s body
and the shell. Pull apart in opposite directions until you hear a snapping
sound, then remove the stomach and any visible membranes. Crack open the
legs and pick the meat out. Use a spoon to scoop out the flesh in the main
body of the crab. Wash and dry the four top shells...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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1 handful mint leaves
100 ml (3½ fl oz) dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)
METHOD
To make the crepe batter, sift the rice flour and plain flour into a bowl, add
the salt and turmeric and mix well. Pour the coconut cream and soda water
into the bowl and mix well with a whisk to form a smooth batter. Set aside to
rest for 10 minutes before use. This makes enough batter for three 32 cm
(12½ inch) crepes.
To make the filling, line a metal or bamboo steamer with baking paper and
punch a few small holes in the paper. Place the mung beans in the steamer
and cover with the lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly
boiling water and steam the beans for 15 minutes, or until soft. Remove and
set aside.
Place a frying pan over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon of the oil, the garlic
and lobster and stir-fry for 3 minutes, or until the lobster is just cooked.
Remove the lobster and set aside. Wipe the pan clean, then add the
remaining oil and repeat this process with the pork belly. Set aside.
To make the crepe, lightly grease a non-stick 32 cm (12½ inch) frying pan
over medium heat and sprinkle a third of the spring onion into the pan. Pour
about a third of the batter into the middle of the pan, then pick the pan up by
the handle and tip it to spread the batter over the entire surface of the pan.
Pour the excess back into the original batter. (The crepe should be quite
thin.)
Scatter a third of the mung beans, lobster, pork, spring onion, bean sprouts
and enoki mushrooms over ha
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This passage discusses: 1 handful mint leaves
100 ml (3½ fl oz) dipping fish sauce (nuoc mam cham)
METHOD
To make the crepe batter, sift the rice flour and plain flour into a bowl, add
the salt and turmeric and mix well. Pour the coconut cream and soda water
into the bowl and mix well with a whisk to form a smooth batter. Set aside to
rest for 10 minutes before use. This makes enough batter for three 32 cm
(12½ inch) crepes.
To make the filling, line a metal or bamboo steamer with baking paper and
punch a few small hol...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Beef slow-braised in young coconut water
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
INGREDIENTS
4 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon shaoxing rice wine
3 tablespoons annatto oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) beef chuck or oyster blade, cut into 4 cm (1½ inch) dice
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
50 g (1¾ oz) butter
2 red Asian shallots, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) chicken stock
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) young coconut water
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) pineapple juice
200 g (7 oz) carrots, peeled and cut into 2 cm (¾ inch) dice
200 g (7 oz) potato, peeled and cut into 2 cm (¾ inch) dice
100 g (3½ oz) red Asian shallots, peeled and left whole
100 g (3½ oz) skinned and podded broad (fava) beans (about 300 g /10½ oz
broad beans in their pods)
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
2 long red chillies, julienned
steamed jasmine rice, to serve
METHOD
Combine the soy sauce, rice wine, annatto oil, salt and pepper in a mixing
bowl. Add the beef and toss to coat in the marinade, then cover and set
aside at room temperature for 20 minutes. Drain the beef from the
marinade.
In a large saucepan, heat the oil and butter over medium heat. When the
butter begins to bubble, turn the heat to high, then add the beef and seal on
all sides until browned. Add the chopped shallots and garlic and stir
together with the beef for 2 minutes.
Pour in the chicken stock, coconut water and pineapple juice, covering all
of the beef. If necessary, add a l
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This passage discusses: Beef slow-braised in young coconut water
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
INGREDIENTS
4 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 tablespoon shaoxing rice wine
3 tablespoons annatto oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) beef chuck or oyster blade, cut into 4 cm (1½ inch) dice
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
50 g (1¾ oz) butter
2 red Asian shallots, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) chicken stock
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) young coconut water
250 ml (9 fl oz/1...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Heat a frying pan over medium heat. Lay the pieces of banana leaf, one at a
time, in the pan for 30 seconds on each side until the leaves become soft and
pliable. Set aside.
To make the marinade, put the galangal and turmeric in a mortar and pestle
and pound to form a paste. Transfer the galangal and turmeric to a large
mixing bowl. Add the remaining marinade ingredients, mix well, then set
aside for 10 minutes for the flavours to develop.
Season the fish with sea salt, then add to the marinade. Cover the bowl
with plastic wrap and place in the fridge to marinate for 1 hour, turning the
fish over in the marinade after 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the salad, put the goji berries in a bowl, cover with
water and soak for 15 minutes, then drain. Peel the pomelo and roughly
segment it by simply tearing small pieces with your hands, doing your best
to remove the tough outer pith. Put the pomelo in a mixing bowl with the
goji berries, papaya, perilla and Vietnamese mint leaves, and toss.
Wrap the fish in one piece of the banana leaf, folding down the ends to
secure. Place the wrapped fish in a large metal or bamboo steamer and cover
with the lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water
and steam for 7–10 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through.
Lay the other piece of the banana leaf on a long platter, then transfer the
fish to the platter, skin side up. Arrange the salad on top of the fish and dress
with the dipping fish sauce.
Pandan and ginger panna
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This passage discusses: Heat a frying pan over medium heat. Lay the pieces of banana leaf, one at a
time, in the pan for 30 seconds on each side until the leaves become soft and
pliable. Set aside.
To make the marinade, put the galangal and turmeric in a mortar and pestle
and pound to form a paste. Transfer the galangal and turmeric to a large
mixing bowl. Add the remaining marinade ingredients, mix well, then set
aside for 10 minutes for the flavours to develop.
Season the fish with sea salt, then add to the marinade....
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
I’M ON A DIRECT FLIGHT FROM HO CHI MINH CITY to Paris.
Lunch is served and, to my surprise, Vietnam Airlines is offering some very
interesting French–Vietnamese dishes: salad of dried beef, tea-smoked duck,
beaufort cheese and chanterelle mushrooms; beef tenderloin with butter,
potato and turmeric purée; and a cheese platter of crottin de chavignol,
fourme d’ambert, comté and camembert. All the flight attendants speak
French and they even know a thing or two about French wines. I have to say,
it is the most decadent fourteen hours I have ever spent on a plane.
We arrive at 5.30 am; the streets are empty and my hotel room is not ready
for another eight hours, but who needs sleep — I’m in Paris! I drop my bags
off at reception, grab a map and head out.
I have always had a certain image in my mind of what Paris would be like:
there’d be Parisians dressed in black-and-white striped shirts cycling down
the streets, with fresh long baguettes in their baskets; there would be others
taking a leisurely stroll home from the bakery, their baguettes safely tucked
under their arms — and funnily enough, that’s exactly what I see. On every
street corner, or so it seems, there are patisseries and boulangeries, most
with queues twenty or so deep running out the door, as Parisians wait
patiently for their daily bread. I choose the one with the longest line and wait
my turn.
Simply standing inside the patisserie is a wonderful experience — the
decorative walls, antique tiles, the wonderful aro
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This passage discusses: I’M ON A DIRECT FLIGHT FROM HO CHI MINH CITY to Paris.
Lunch is served and, to my surprise, Vietnam Airlines is offering some very
interesting French–Vietnamese dishes: salad of dried beef, tea-smoked duck,
beaufort cheese and chanterelle mushrooms; beef tenderloin with butter,
potato and turmeric purée; and a cheese platter of crottin de chavignol,
fourme d’ambert, comté and camembert. All the flight attendants speak
French and they even know a thing or two about French wines. I have to say,
it...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Mother Two and the crew
HA THI HIEU IS MY MOTHER’S ELDEST SISTER, KNOWN to her
siblings as Sister Two. When my mother was busy working in the family
market stall in Saigon, Sister Two looked after my brother and sister — so
she became ‘Mother Two’ to them. Then, when I was born, I followed
tradition and called her Mother Two as well.
Mother Two has six children: Richard, Anton, Raymond, Isabella,
Christophe and Laurent. My cousins have always been a big part of my
family and even though we live in different countries our families have kept
in close contact. Most of them have been to Australia and my three siblings
have been to visit them in France; it’s only me, for one reason or another,
who has never been able to be in the same country at the same time. But
although we’ve never met, I feel so close to them and already know so much
about them.
Richard, Raymond, Christophe and Laurent now live in Paris while
Mother Two, Anton and Isabella live in Marseille, where they were all
brought up. It is summer holidays in France, so Laurent has gone to visit his
mother and sister, and I’m to catch the first train to Marseille and meet him
there.
Somehow, with only a few words of French, I manage to get myself to the
Gare de Lyon in Paris and on a train to Marseille, in the south of France, a
journey that takes about five hours. An attendant pushes a trolley through the
carriage and offers me a croissant, tea or coffee. I order a coffee and am
amazed at what I’m given. It’s what I know
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This passage discusses: Mother Two and the crew
HA THI HIEU IS MY MOTHER’S ELDEST SISTER, KNOWN to her
siblings as Sister Two. When my mother was busy working in the family
market stall in Saigon, Sister Two looked after my brother and sister — so
she became ‘Mother Two’ to them. Then, when I was born, I followed
tradition and called her Mother Two as well.
Mother Two has six children: Richard, Anton, Raymond, Isabella,
Christophe and Laurent. My cousins have always been a big part of my
family and even though we live ...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
‘Hi, I’m your cousin Sawa. I’m Isabella’s husband.’
We hop in his car and head towards Martigues, a small town a good thirty
minutes’ drive from Marseille, and Sawa does not stop talking the whole
way. He jumps from English to Vietnamese, passionately expressing his love
for good food and his loyalty to French wine.
I am so impressed by her food; the dishes are
traditional Vietnamese dishes but the sauces are
all very French.
Martigues reminds me of Venice, with its colourful houses sitting shoulder
to shoulder along boat-lined canals. A strip of French eateries and bars line
the picturesque waterfront and amongst them, a cute Vietnamese restaurant
owned by my second cousin, Yen. Inside, the restaurant is filled with forty to
fifty people. At first I think they are just guests of the restaurant but then I
realise they are — all of them! — actually my relatives who have come from
all over the south of France to welcome Laurent home.
Half an hour later it seems and I am still meeting and greeting the clan,
giving each the customary French double kiss, which holds no familiarity
within either my Vietnamese or Australian upbringing. More and more
relatives arrive, some Vietnamese, others with mixed French and Indian
heritage. I do a quick head count: fifty-four relatives. I feel so fortunate that
my family is such a wonderful melting pot of cultures and cuisines. And I
can hardly wait to try the food!
Sawa pours me a fantastic red from Bordeaux to accompany the dishes
cooked by Y
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This passage discusses: ‘Hi, I’m your cousin Sawa. I’m Isabella’s husband.’
We hop in his car and head towards Martigues, a small town a good thirty
minutes’ drive from Marseille, and Sawa does not stop talking the whole
way. He jumps from English to Vietnamese, passionately expressing his love
for good food and his loyalty to French wine.
I am so impressed by her food; the dishes are
traditional Vietnamese dishes but the sauces are
all very French.
Martigues reminds me of Venice, with its colourful houses sitting shou...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
Mussels tossed with butter, crisp garlic and
Asian basil
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
INGREDIENTS
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) small mussels
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
40 g (1½ oz) butter
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 red Asian shallots, chopped
2 teaspoons fish sauce
generous pinch of salt and coarsely cracked black pepper
10 Asian basil leaves, sliced
1 tablespoon fried garlic
1 long red chilli, julienned
METHOD
Scrub and debeard the mussels. Discard any open mussels or any open ones
that don’t close when tapped on the work surface.
Place a large wok over high heat, add 500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) of water and
bring to a rapid boil. Add the mussels, cover with a lid and cook until the
mussels open slightly, stirring the mussels occasionally to ensure they cook
evenly. Remove the mussels from the wok and set aside.
Wipe the wok clean with kitchen paper and place over medium heat, then
add the oil and butter. When the butter starts to bubble, add the garlic and
shallots and cook for 2–3 minutes until browned. Return the mussels to the
wok and toss for 1 minute. Discard any mussels that do not open.
Season with the fish sauce, salt and pepper, then add the basil and toss for
a further 30 seconds. Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with the fried
garlic and chilli.
Caramelised frogs’ legs
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
I have never seen frogs’ legs cooked in this way
before. Cousin Sawa explains that the French–
Vietnamese in Marseille created this dish forty years
ago. It’s ce
|
This passage discusses: Mussels tossed with butter, crisp garlic and
Asian basil
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
INGREDIENTS
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) small mussels
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
40 g (1½ oz) butter
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 red Asian shallots, chopped
2 teaspoons fish sauce
generous pinch of salt and coarsely cracked black pepper
10 Asian basil leaves, sliced
1 tablespoon fried garlic
1 long red chilli, julienned
METHOD
Scrub and debeard the mussels. Discard any open mussels or any open ones
that don’t close ...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
In a food processor, blitz together the butter, garlic, coriander, Asian basil,
salt and pepper. Remove from the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set
aside at cool room temperature to allow the flavours to develop.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Line the bottom of a baking tray
with rock salt.
Fill each snail shell with ½ teaspoon of the coriander and basil butter.
Place a snail in each shell, pushing it into the butter. Use the remaining
coriander and basil butter to fill up the shells. Place the shells in the rock salt
on the tray, butter side up. Place the tray in the oven and bake for 8–10
minutes, or until the butter is sizzling hot and bubbling. Serve with warm
baguettes.
The Marseille cook-off
ARRIVING AT MY COUSIN ANTON’S HOUSE I AM introduced to
even more family members, all here for the cook-off. They’ve come armed
with recipes and bags and bags of ingredients, all eager to show off their
much-loved family dishes. Everyone begins to set up their work area, and it
doesn’t take long before their competitive natures kick in and they begin
muscling in on each other for the most bench space.
The clock strikes midday and the cook-off begins. There’s baguettes filled
with chargrilled pork neck and coriander; meatballs steamed in caul fat;
mung bean dumplings rolled in coconut; hoisin-coated duck breast pan-fried
and served with egg noodles; whole prawns fried on crisp rice flour cakes;
chicken curry cooked in Indian spices; Vietnamese mint-stuffed steamed
chick
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This passage discusses: In a food processor, blitz together the butter, garlic, coriander, Asian basil,
salt and pepper. Remove from the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set
aside at cool room temperature to allow the flavours to develop.
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Line the bottom of a baking tray
with rock salt.
Fill each snail shell with ½ teaspoon of the coriander and basil butter.
Place a snail in each shell, pushing it into the butter. Use the remaining
coriander and basil butter to fill up the shel...
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am_thuc
|
en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
‘That is my father; he is a legendary cook. A French family, who were
living in Saigon in the early 1900s, adopted my father, giving him the French
name Paul Sabourdy. This meant that he was automatically a citizen of
France, so when the French pulled out of Vietnam, my father also had the
right to leave. My father was married by this time and had a family of his
own, but this didn’t mean we were all automatically given French
citizenship. He had to make the decision to leave us behind in Saigon, with
the firm promise that he would bring us over as soon as he could.
I ask Laurent where it all began and if there was
one person who inspired this great passion for
food that they all seem to have inherited. He
points to an elderly man at the back of the
room.
‘With nothing more than the clothes on his back, my father left for France
in search of a better life for his family. He arrived in a small town called
Port-de-Bouc, not far from Marseille. It was an area where many other
Vietnamese people had migrated to, and it was easy for him to settle there
because the food, faces and language were all so familiar. My father
eventually opened his own little food store. He handmade rice noodles and
filled them with pork and mushrooms, he made Vietnamese cakes and sweet
dumplings, steamed pork buns and even baked his own bread and pastries.
His store was constantly busy with local Vietnamese who queued up to buy
his famous handmade noodles.
‘In 1976 the French government accepted my fathe
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This passage discusses: ‘That is my father; he is a legendary cook. A French family, who were
living in Saigon in the early 1900s, adopted my father, giving him the French
name Paul Sabourdy. This meant that he was automatically a citizen of
France, so when the French pulled out of Vietnam, my father also had the
right to leave. My father was married by this time and had a family of his
own, but this didn’t mean we were all automatically given French
citizenship. He had to make the decision to leave us behind in Saigon...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Juice 2 of the passionfruit, then strain the juice, discarding the seeds. Add
the dipping fish sauce to the strained juice, stir to combine, then drizzle the
dressing over the kingfish. Juice the remaining passionfruit (including the
seeds) onto the kingfish, then sprinkle the herbs and lemongrass over the top.
Garnish with the chilli and serve immediately.
Pan-fried stuffed squid
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
INGREDIENTS
50 g (1¾ oz) dried wood ear mushrooms
20 g (¾ oz) dried bean thread (glass) noodles
12 small squid
4 raw large king prawns (shrimp), peeled and deveined
250 g (9 oz) minced (ground) pork
3 spring onions (scallions), chopped
2 tablespoons chopped lemongrass, white part only
2 tablespoons chopped water chestnuts
1½ tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tomatoes, chopped
1 tablespoon fish sauce
coriander (cilantro) sprigs, to garnish
METHOD
Put the dried mushrooms in a bowl, cover with water and soak for 20
minutes, then drain and thinly slice. Put the bean thread noodles in a separate
bowl, cover with water and soak for 20 minutes, then drain and use kitchen
scissors to cut into 4 cm (1½ inch) lengths.
Remove the innards from the squid by pulling the tentacles from the body,
then carefully remove the innards, taking care not to break the ink sac as you
do so. Discard the innards and ink sac. Cut across the head, underneath the
eyes, to separate the tentacles in one piece; discard the eyes. Push t
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This passage discusses: Juice 2 of the passionfruit, then strain the juice, discarding the seeds. Add
the dipping fish sauce to the strained juice, stir to combine, then drizzle the
dressing over the kingfish. Juice the remaining passionfruit (including the
seeds) onto the kingfish, then sprinkle the herbs and lemongrass over the top.
Garnish with the chilli and serve immediately.
Pan-fried stuffed squid
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
INGREDIENTS
50 g (1¾ oz) dried wood ear mushrooms
20 g (¾ oz) dried bean thread...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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METHOD
Combine all the marinade ingredients in a mixing bowl, stirring well to
dissolve the sugar. Rub this mixture all over the chicken skin, pushing some
mixture under the skin. Rub the chicken cavity with the mixture, then stuff
the remaining mixture into the cavity. Cover and place in the fridge to
marinate for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, to make the salt, pepper and lemon dipping sauce, put all the
ingredients in a small bowl, stirring to combine well.
Place the chicken in a large metal or bamboo steamer and cover with the
lid. Sit the steamer over a wok or saucepan of rapidly boiling water and
steam for 45–55 minutes, or until cooked through (test the thickest part of
the chicken to see if it is cooked, between the thigh and the body).
Using a cleaver, chop the chicken through the bones into bite-sized
pieces. Serve with the reserved Vietnamese mint and the salt, pepper and
lemon dipping sauce.
Meatballs steamed in caul fat
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
INGREDIENTS
20 g (¾ oz) dried bean thread (glass) noodles
100 g (3½ oz) caul fat (see note)
300 g (10½ oz) minced (ground) beef
100 g (3½ oz) chicken livers, chopped
2 quail egg yolks
75 g (2½ oz/½ cup) frozen green peas
2 tablespoons chopped red Asian shallots
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
2 tablespoons fried garlic
1 teaspoon white peppercorns, coarsely ground
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon fish sauce
½ teaspoon sesame oil
½ teaspoon salt
sliced spring onion (scallion), to garnish
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
ligh
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This passage discusses: METHOD
Combine all the marinade ingredients in a mixing bowl, stirring well to
dissolve the sugar. Rub this mixture all over the chicken skin, pushing some
mixture under the skin. Rub the chicken cavity with the mixture, then stuff
the remaining mixture into the cavity. Cover and place in the fridge to
marinate for 1 hour.
Meanwhile, to make the salt, pepper and lemon dipping sauce, put all the
ingredients in a small bowl, stirring to combine well.
Place the chicken in a large metal or bamboo st...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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the boil, then turn off the heat. Cover the pan and allow the flavours to
infuse for 10 minutes.
Beat the sugar and egg yolks together in a mixing bowl until creamy. Pour
the cream over the egg mixture, whisking constantly until combined. Strain
the cream and egg mixture into a large jug, discarding the solids, then pour
into eight 125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) Asian teacups, filling each about two-thirds
full.
Bring a wok or saucepan of water to a rapid boil. Place the teacups in a
metal or bamboo steamer and cover with the lid. Reduce the heat to low,
then sit the steamer over the wok and steam for 25–30 minutes, or until just
set; they will still be slightly wobbly in the middle. Allow to cool to room
temperature, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours, or until
set.
To serve, evenly distribute a teaspoon of caster sugar over the top of each
crème, and then caramelise with a kitchen blowtorch or under a hot grill
(broiler) for a few minutes.
The Sabourdy brothers
THE NEXT DAY, LAURENT AND I HEAD BACK to Paris to meet up
with his other three brothers. As we leave the train station in the 13th
arrondissement, I notice every shop front has Vietnamese writing on it. This
area reminds me of a miniature version of Saigon, with its Vietnamese
bakeries, cafés, pho restaurants, greengrocers, fish markets and fabric shops.
This is where many Vietnamese migrants to Paris settled, forming a small
community, much like you see in Australia’s Cabramatta in Sydney or
Footscray
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This passage discusses: the boil, then turn off the heat. Cover the pan and allow the flavours to
infuse for 10 minutes.
Beat the sugar and egg yolks together in a mixing bowl until creamy. Pour
the cream over the egg mixture, whisking constantly until combined. Strain
the cream and egg mixture into a large jug, discarding the solids, then pour
into eight 125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) Asian teacups, filling each about two-thirds
full.
Bring a wok or saucepan of water to a rapid boil. Place the teacups in a
metal or bamboo ste...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Verrine of eggplant, asparagus & Asian
mushrooms with goat’s curd
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER
A verrine is a layered savoury appetiser, snack or
dessert in a small glass, its name taken from the
French verre, meaning ‘glass’. You can use whatever
vegetables are fresh and in season to create your own
versions.
INGREDIENTS
1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) vegetable oil, for deep-frying
2 Japanese eggplants (aubergines), cut into 4 mm (1/8 inch) dice
6 asparagus spears, trimmed and sliced in half crossways
40 g (1½ oz) butter
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
100 g (3½ oz) shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
100 g (3½ oz) enoki mushrooms, sliced into 3 cm (1¼ inch) lengths
100 g (3½ oz) shimeji mushrooms, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons light soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
200 g (7 oz) goat’s curd
2 teaspoons black sesame seeds, toasted
4 watercress sprigs
METHOD
Heat the oil in a wok to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of bread dropped into
the oil browns in 15 seconds. Add the eggplant and deep-fry for 3–4 minutes
until browned and soft. Remove and place on kitchen paper to drain. Drain
off the excess oil in the wok and wipe clean with kitchen paper, reserving the
wok.
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil, add the asparagus and blanch for 2
minutes. Drain, then place the asparagus in iced water to stop the cooking
process. Drain the asparagus, then thinly slice. Set aside.
Heat the wok over medium heat, then add half the butter. When the butter
starts to bubble, add 2 teaspoons of the garlic and all
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This passage discusses: Verrine of eggplant, asparagus & Asian
mushrooms with goat’s curd
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER
A verrine is a layered savoury appetiser, snack or
dessert in a small glass, its name taken from the
French verre, meaning ‘glass’. You can use whatever
vegetables are fresh and in season to create your own
versions.
INGREDIENTS
1 litre (35 fl oz/4 cups) vegetable oil, for deep-frying
2 Japanese eggplants (aubergines), cut into 4 mm (1/8 inch) dice
6 asparagus spears, trimmed and sliced in half crossways
40 g...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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simply mash with a fork. If you want a very fine purée, push the mixture
through a fine sieve before serving. Set aside and keep warm.
Slice the bitter melon in half lengthways. Using a spoon, scrape out the
seeds, then slice the melon into neat 5 cm (2 inch) lengths. Peel the carrot
and cut it into neat lengths the same size and thickness as the bitter melon.
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and add the sugar and ginger. Add the
bitter melon and blanch for 2 minutes, then remove to a bowl of iced water
to stop the cooking process. Bring the water in the saucepan back to the boil,
then blanch the carrots for 2 minutes, drain well, then add to the iced water.
When the vegetables are cooled, strain, discarding the ginger.
Meanwhile, pour the dipping fish sauce into a small saucepan and reduce
by half. Set aside.
Heat a large frying pan over medium heat, then add the olive oil and fry
the garlic cloves until browned. Remove the garlic, then pan-fry the sea bass,
skin side down, for 4 minutes. Turn the fillets over and cook for a further 2
minutes. Transfer the fish to a serving platter and serve with the bitter melon,
carrots and pea purée. Drizzle with the thickened sauce.
Pig’s ear and green mango salad
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
When Laurent shows me the pig’s ears that he plans
to make into a salad, I can’t wait to try it, as I find the
texture of pig’s ears quite unlike anything else. The
ears are one part of the pig that should never be
overlooked or wasted.
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This passage discusses: simply mash with a fork. If you want a very fine purée, push the mixture
through a fine sieve before serving. Set aside and keep warm.
Slice the bitter melon in half lengthways. Using a spoon, scrape out the
seeds, then slice the melon into neat 5 cm (2 inch) lengths. Peel the carrot
and cut it into neat lengths the same size and thickness as the bitter melon.
Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and add the sugar and ginger. Add the
bitter melon and blanch for 2 minutes, then remove to a bowl ...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Laurent’s quail flambé
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
I noticed that all my cousins regularly cooked with
many varieties of bouquet garni. Now I too have
begun to adopt the use of French herbs into my own
Vietnamese cooking.
INGREDIENT
6 quails (see note, or ask your butcher to remove the ribcage from the quails,
reserving the bones)
1 teaspoon oyster sauce
3 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 red Asian shallot, chopped
85 g (3 oz/½ cup) sultanas (golden raisins)
1 teaspoon tamarind pulp
1 bouquet garni of 2 thyme sprigs and 2 bay leaves
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) white wine
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) chicken stock
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon butter
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) Cognac
8 grapes, peeled and halved
Vietnamese baguettes, to serve
METHOD
Put the quails in a large mixing bowl. Combine the oyster sauce and 2
tablespoons of the fish sauce and add to the bowl. Toss the quails to coat in
the marinade, then cover and set aside at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Heat a frying pan over medium heat, then add the oil and cook the
reserved quail bones for 2 minutes. Add the carrot, shallot, sultanas,
tamarind, bouquet garni, white wine and chicken stock. Bring to the boil,
skimming off all impurities, then season with the remaining fish sauce and
the sugar. Strain, discarding the solids, then return the liquid to the pan on
the stovetop and reduce the sauce to a third.
Heat a large frying pan over medium heat,
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This passage discusses: Laurent’s quail flambé
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
I noticed that all my cousins regularly cooked with
many varieties of bouquet garni. Now I too have
begun to adopt the use of French herbs into my own
Vietnamese cooking.
INGREDIENT
6 quails (see note, or ask your butcher to remove the ribcage from the quails,
reserving the bones)
1 teaspoon oyster sauce
3 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 red Asian shallot, chopped
85 g (3 oz/½ cup) sultana...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Lamb cutlets cooked in preserved bean curd
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Preserved bean curd is basically tofu that has been
fermented for over a year in rice wine, salt and chilli.
A cube of preserved bean curd and steamed rice is an
extremely tasty meal in itself. You can find preserved
bean curd in glass jars in Asian markets.
INGREDIENTS
6 lamb cutlets, frenched
12 cherry tomatoes
12 betel leaves
1 tablespoon olive oil
pea and Vietnamese mint purée
3 tablespoons white wine
MARINADE
3 tablespoons preserved bean curd
1 tablespoon fish sauce
2 teaspoons honey
6 black peppercorns
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon crushed dried bay leaves
METHOD
To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients in a mixing bowl. Rub
the lamb cutlets with the mixture, then place in a bowl. Cover and place in
the fridge to marinate for 2 hours.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Wrap each cherry tomato with a
betel leaf, making sure the shiny side of the leaf is facing out. Secure with
toothpicks.
Heat an ovenproof frying pan over medium heat, then add the olive oil and
seal the cutlets for about 1–2 minutes on both sides until browned. Add the
cherry tomatoes to the pan, then place the pan in the oven and cook the
cutlets for 3 minutes, or until the lamb is just cooked through but still a little
pink in the middle.
Place the lamb cutlets and cherry tomatoes on a platter and serve with the
pea purée. Place the frying pan on the stovetop and deglaze with the white
wine, then pour t
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This passage discusses: Lamb cutlets cooked in preserved bean curd
SERVES 4–6 AS PART OF A SHARED MEAL
Preserved bean curd is basically tofu that has been
fermented for over a year in rice wine, salt and chilli.
A cube of preserved bean curd and steamed rice is an
extremely tasty meal in itself. You can find preserved
bean curd in glass jars in Asian markets.
INGREDIENTS
6 lamb cutlets, frenched
12 cherry tomatoes
12 betel leaves
1 tablespoon olive oil
pea and Vietnamese mint purée
3 tablespoons white wine
MARINADE
3 t...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Spring onion oil
MAKES 250 ML (9 FL OZ/1 CUP)
INGREDIENTS
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) vegetable oil
6–8 spring onions (scallions), green part only, thinly sliced
METHOD
Put the oil and spring onions in a saucepan over medium heat. Cook the
spring onions for about 2 minutes, or until the oil just starts to simmer, then
remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool. Strain the oil into a jar,
discarding the solids. The spring onion oil will keep for up to 1 week in the
fridge.
Fried garlic and garlic oil
MAKES 2 TABLESPOONS FRIED GARLIC; 250 ML (9 FL
OZ/1 CUP) GARLIC OIL
INGREDIENTS
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) vegetable oil
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
METHOD
Pour the oil into a wok and heat to 180°C (350°F), or until a cube of bread
dropped into the oil browns in 15 seconds. Add the garlic to the oil and fry
for 45–60 seconds, or until the garlic is golden, then strain through a metal
sieve and place on kitchen paper to dry. Be careful not to overcook the
garlic in the oil, as it continues to cook once it is removed from the wok.
Reserve the garlic oil. Store the fried garlic in an airtight container for up to
4 days. The garlic oil will keep for up to 1 week in the fridge.
Annatto oil
MAKES 125 ML (4 FL OZ/½ CUP)
INGREDIENTS
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) vegetable oil
1 tablespoon annatto seeds
METHOD
Put the oil and annatto seeds in a saucepan over low heat. Heat just until the
oil begins to simmer; don’t overheat or the seeds will turn black. Remove
the pan from the heat and set aside
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This passage discusses: Spring onion oil
MAKES 250 ML (9 FL OZ/1 CUP)
INGREDIENTS
250 ml (9 fl oz/1 cup) vegetable oil
6–8 spring onions (scallions), green part only, thinly sliced
METHOD
Put the oil and spring onions in a saucepan over medium heat. Cook the
spring onions for about 2 minutes, or until the oil just starts to simmer, then
remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool. Strain the oil into a jar,
discarding the solids. The spring onion oil will keep for up to 1 week in the
fridge.
Fried garlic and garlic...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour, continuing to
skim. After 1 hour, add the sugar, rock salt and fish sauce to the broth and
simmer for another 2 hours, frequently skimming.
Fill the pot with cold water to get it back to 15 litres (525 fl oz) and return
it to the simmer. Cover with a lid, reduce the heat to low and cook
overnight. The broth should barely be moving. The next morning, pass the
broth through a double layer of muslin into another pan. Wrap the
chargrilled ginger and onions (with skin removed) in muslin, add to the pan
and cook for a further 2 hours. Remove the muslin bag and allow the stock
to cool. Portion into smaller quantities and refrigerate or freeze until
required.
Fish stock
MAKES 4 LITRES (140 FL OZ/16 CUPS)
INGREDIENTS
2 kg (4 lb 8 oz) white fish bones (such as snapper or cod)
1 large leek, trimmed and sliced
4 cm (1½ inch) piece of ginger, sliced
4 garlic cloves
2 kaffir lime (makrut) leaves
1 bunch coriander (cilantro), stems and roots only
METHOD
Place the fish bones in a large saucepan or stockpot with 4 litres (140 fl
oz/16 cups) of water and bring to the boil. Skim off any impurities, then add
the remaining ingredients. Return to the boil, then reduce the heat and
simmer for 30 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve and allow to cool. Store
in the fridge for up to 3 days, or freeze until required.
Garlic mayonnaise
MAKES 250 ML (9 FL OZ/1 CUP)
INGREDIENTS
3 garlic cloves
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ teaspoon sal
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This passage discusses: boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour, continuing to
skim. After 1 hour, add the sugar, rock salt and fish sauce to the broth and
simmer for another 2 hours, frequently skimming.
Fill the pot with cold water to get it back to 15 litres (525 fl oz) and return
it to the simmer. Cover with a lid, reduce the heat to low and cook
overnight. The broth should barely be moving. The next morning, pass the
broth through a double layer of muslin into another pan. Wrap the
chargrilled g...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Pickled carrot
MAKES 250 G (9 OZ)
INGREDIENTS
185 ml (6 fl oz/¾ cup) white vinegar
100 g (3½ oz) sugar
1 teaspoon salt
200 g (7 oz) carrots, peeled
METHOD
Put the vinegar, sugar and salt in a saucepan over high heat and bring to the
boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove the pan from the heat and set
aside to cool.
Coarsely grate the carrots and add to a pickling jar. Pour over the cooled
pickling liquid and then leave to mature overnight at room temperature.
Glossary
Annatto seeds
Annatto seeds come from the achiote pod, which looks similar to a
rambutan fruit. When ripe, the pods split open to reveal around fifty annatto
seeds. Annatto seeds are slightly sweet yet peppery with a hint of nutmeg,
and when infused with oil impart a golden saffron colour to food. Annatto
seeds and oil are sold in Asian and Indian food stores. If you can only find
the seeds, these can be used to make the oil.
Asian celery
Also called Chinese or Vietnamese celery, these have thin, hollow stalks
and a stronger taste and smell than ordinary celery. Use in stir–fries and
soups or blanch and use in salads. Buy bunches with firm stems.
Bitter melon
Similar to a pale green cucumber but covered in a bumpy skin. Blanch the
flesh in boiling water or degorge before use to reduce bitterness.
Black cardamom
This is also known as brown cardamom but should not be confused with
green cardamom, as they are completely different in flavour and intensity.
Black cardamoms are dried pods, around 3 cm (1¼ inche
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This passage discusses: Pickled carrot
MAKES 250 G (9 OZ)
INGREDIENTS
185 ml (6 fl oz/¾ cup) white vinegar
100 g (3½ oz) sugar
1 teaspoon salt
200 g (7 oz) carrots, peeled
METHOD
Put the vinegar, sugar and salt in a saucepan over high heat and bring to the
boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove the pan from the heat and set
aside to cool.
Coarsely grate the carrots and add to a pickling jar. Pour over the cooled
pickling liquid and then leave to mature overnight at room temperature.
Glossary
Annatto seeds
Annatt...
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am_thuc
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Fish sauce
A pungent, salty liquid used widely in Vietnamese cooking as a condiment
and flavouring. When using fish sauce as a dipping sauce, use a good–
quality fish sauce such as Viet Huong or Phu Quoc brand. When using it in
stocks and marinades, use Squid brand.
Galangal
Similar in appearance and preparation to its close relative ginger, galangal
is slightly pinker in colour and has a distinctive peppery flavour. It tends to
be a bit woodier than ginger, so you need to grate or chop it finely before
use. Choose galangal with the pinker stems, as these are fresher than the
browner ones.
Herbs
Vietnamese cooking is renowned for its use of fresh herbs. Look for them in
your local Vietnamese or Asian market, as there is really no substitute for
their unique flavour and aroma.
Asian basil (rau que or hung que): Also known as Thai basil or Asian
sweet basil, this has purplish stems, green leaves and a sweet aniseed aroma
and flavour.
Perilla (tia to): This broad–leafed herb is related to mint, and can be red or
purplish green in colour. It is similar to Japanese shiso.
Rice paddy herb (ngo om): This aromatic small–leafed herb grows in rice
fields. It has a citrusy aroma and flavour, and is used in soups or seafood
dishes.
Sawtooth coriander (ngo gai): Also known as sawtooth herb or long
coriander, this herb has slender, long green leaves with serrated edges. It
has a strong coriander–like flavour.
Vietnamese mint (rau ram): This herb has narrow pointed and pungent–
tasting leav
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This passage discusses: Fish sauce
A pungent, salty liquid used widely in Vietnamese cooking as a condiment
and flavouring. When using fish sauce as a dipping sauce, use a good–
quality fish sauce such as Viet Huong or Phu Quoc brand. When using it in
stocks and marinades, use Squid brand.
Galangal
Similar in appearance and preparation to its close relative ginger, galangal
is slightly pinker in colour and has a distinctive peppery flavour. It tends to
be a bit woodier than ginger, so you need to grate or chop it finel...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
|
is sweeter and is made from glutinous short–grain rice; the flour turns firm
and sticky when cooked.
Sambal oelek
Sambal oelek is an Indonesian paste made from ground chillies, salt and
lemongrass. It is mild in spice, so it adds heat without altering the flavour
too much. It can be found in jars in Asian food stores.
Shaoxing rice wine
Also called Chinese rice wine, this is made from rice, millet and Shaoxing’s
local water. Aged wines are served warm as a drink in China, and the
younger wines are used in cooking.
Shrimp paste
Made from fermented shrimp that are ground, salted and dried, then bottled
or compressed into a hard block. While it does have a very strong aroma,
shrimp paste adds depth of flavour and fragrance to your dish. Buy shrimp
paste from your Asian food store. I prefer the soft variety, not the hard one,
and I like to use Lee Kum Kee brand.
Snails (fresh)
To prepare snails, leave the snails in their shells and soak them in salted
water for 10 minutes before rinsing under cold water. Repeat this process
three times. Set aside. Snails are available fresh from your local fine food
supplier, and may have to be ordered in advance.
Soy sauce
Soy sauce is a naturally brewed liquid made from fermented soya beans
mixed with wheat, water and salt. Dark soy sauce is less salty, thicker and
darker than light soy sauce, because it has been fermented for longer. Light
soy sauce has a light, delicate flavour, but is saltier than dark soy, and is
often used as a dipping sau
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This passage discusses: is sweeter and is made from glutinous short–grain rice; the flour turns firm
and sticky when cooked.
Sambal oelek
Sambal oelek is an Indonesian paste made from ground chillies, salt and
lemongrass. It is mild in spice, so it adds heat without altering the flavour
too much. It can be found in jars in Asian food stores.
Shaoxing rice wine
Also called Chinese rice wine, this is made from rice, millet and Shaoxing’s
local water. Aged wines are served warm as a drink in China, and the
younger wines a...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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cabbage, wok-tossed with garlic
caramelised frogs’ legs
caramelised pork belly with quail eggs
chicken and pork liver pâté
chicken slow-braised in green pepper
coq au vin
meatballs steamed in caul fat
steamed Vietnamese mint-stuffed chicken
snails cooked in lemongrass and chilli
chocolate truffles, fried, with pink pepper
Christophe’s crab wok-tossed with basil and black olives
citrus-cured sardine salad
citrus-cured wagyu sirloin
beef slow-braised in young coconut water
fresh roasted coconut
quail cooked in orange and coconut water
coq au vin
Cousin Khanh’s lemongrass and kaffir lime crème brûlée
Christophe’s crab wok-tossed with basil and black olives
crab farci
crab steamed in beer
green mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab
crème brûlée, Cousin Khanh’s lemongrass and kaffir lime
crème caramel
crisp rice flour crepe with lobster and enoki mushroom
crispy frogs’ legs
D
Dalat
Dalat artichoke and pork rib soup
Dalat Palace
Cousin Khanh’s lemongrass and kaffir lime crème brûlée
crème caramel
fried chocolate truffles with pink pepper
meringue et passion
pandan and ginger panna cotta
dipping fish sauce
green tea-smoked duck
E
caramelised pork belly with quail eggs
pork omelette
F
dipping fish sauce
fish stock
pan-fried salmon in orange sauce
pan-fried sea bass with bitter melon and pea purée
raw kingfish with passionfruit, lemongrass and Vietnamese
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This passage discusses: cabbage, wok-tossed with garlic
caramelised frogs’ legs
caramelised pork belly with quail eggs
chicken and pork liver pâté
chicken slow-braised in green pepper
coq au vin
meatballs steamed in caul fat
steamed Vietnamese mint-stuffed chicken
snails cooked in lemongrass and chilli
chocolate truffles, fried, with pink pepper
Christophe’s crab wok-tossed with basil and black olives
citrus-cured sardine salad
citrus-cured wagyu sirloin
beef slow-braised in young coc...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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Laurent’s quail flambé
quail cooked in orange and coconut water
R
rabbit in red wine
red Asian shallots, fried
red braised pork belly
S
Saigon
green mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab
heart of palm and tomato salad with Vietnamese herbs
pig’s ear and green mango salad
prawn, mango and snow pea salad
warm beef and watercress salad
pan-fried salmon in orange sauce
scallops chargrilled in spring onion oil
chargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green papaya
Christophe’s crab wok-tossed with basil and black olives
crab farci
crab steamed in beer
crisp rice flour crepe with lobster and enoki mushroom
green mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab
lobster tail wok-tossed with garlic and black pepper
mussels tossed with butter, crisp garlic and Asian basil
pan-fried cinnamon prawns
pan-fried stuffed squid
prawn, mango and snow pea salad
pumpkin flowers stuffed with prawns and dill
scallops chargrilled in spring onion oil
beef and lemongrass skewers
chargrilled pork skewers in Vietnamese baguette
snails cooked in lemongrass and chilli
snails in coriander and Asian basil
beef noodle soup
Dalat artichoke and pork rib soup
pumpkin soup with aromatic cream
spring onion oil
beef stock base for pho
fish stock
T
toasted rice powder
heart of palm and tomato salad with Vietnamese herbs
turmeric and lemongrass mulloway steamed in banana leaf
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This passage discusses: Laurent’s quail flambé
quail cooked in orange and coconut water
R
rabbit in red wine
red Asian shallots, fried
red braised pork belly
S
Saigon
green mango and pomelo salad with soft shell crab
heart of palm and tomato salad with Vietnamese herbs
pig’s ear and green mango salad
prawn, mango and snow pea salad
warm beef and watercress salad
pan-fried salmon in orange sauce
scallops chargrilled in spring onion oil
chargrilled jumbo garlic prawns with green pa...
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am_thuc
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en
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Describe this culinary tradition:
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children and those suffering from immune deficiency diseases)
should consult their doctor with any concerns about eating raw
eggs.
OVEN GUIDE: You may find cooking times vary depending
on the oven you are using. For fan-forced ovens, as a general
rule, set the oven temperature to 20°C (35°F) lower than
indicated in the recipe.
ALSO AVAILABLE
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children and those suffering from immune deficiency diseases)
should consult their doctor with any concerns about eating raw
eggs.
OVEN GUIDE: You may find cooking times vary depending
on the oven you are using. For fan-forced ovens, as a general
rule, set the oven temperature to 20°C (35°F) lower than
indicated in the recipe.
ALSO AVAILABLE
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am_thuc
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en
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Summarize this cultural or historical content:
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Recipes from my
Vietnamese
Kitchen
Recipes from my
Vietnamese
Kitchen
AUTHENTIC FOOD TO AWAKEN THE SENSES & FEED THE SOUL
Uyen Luu
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CLARE WINFIELD
Uyên Lưu hosts Vietnamese supper clubs in her East London studio where she cooks dishes she learned from her mother. She passes on this knowledge of home cooking through her Vietnamese cooking classes. Uyên is a food writer, contributing to various UK publications, including The Observer Food Monthly. She lives and works in London as a food photographer.
Visit www.uyenluu.com for information on supper clubs, cooking classes and photography. Follow her @loveleluu on Instagram.
Clare Winfield is a photographer specializing in food. Her work has appeared in magazines, books and on packaging. For Ryland Peters & Small, she has also photographed Recipes from My Indian Kitchen, Two’s Company and Home Bird.
SENIOR DESIGNER Megan Smith
COMMISSIONING EDITOR Céline Hughes
PRODUCTION MANAGER Gordana Simakovic
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Leslie Harrington
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Julia Charles
PUBLISHER Cindy Richards
FOOD STYLIST Uyên Lưu
PROP STYLIST Jo Harris
INDEXER Hilary Bird
First published in 2013 as My Vietnamese Kitchen. This edition published in 2024 by Ryland Peters & Small
20–21 Jockey’s Fields
London WC1R 4BW
and
341 East 116th Street
New York, NY 10029
www.rylandpeters.com
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Food photography by Clare Winfield Travel photography by Uyên Lưu
Text © Uyên Lưu 2013, 2019, 2024
Design and commissioned photographs ©
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This passage discusses: Recipes from my
Vietnamese
Kitchen
Recipes from my
Vietnamese
Kitchen
AUTHENTIC FOOD TO AWAKEN THE SENSES & FEED THE SOUL
Uyen Luu
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CLARE WINFIELD
Uyên Lưu hosts Vietnamese supper clubs in her East London studio where she cooks dishes she learned from her mother. She passes on this knowledge of home cooking through her Vietnamese cooking classes. Uyên is a food writer, contributing to various UK publications, including The Observer Food Monthly. She lives and works in London as ...
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van_hoa
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en
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Summarize this cultural or historical content:
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I adore everything about Vietnamese food. Maybe it’s the Frenchman in me – and France has had a longer, stronger connection with Vietnam than the colonial one that lasted from 1887 to 1954 – but I’m excited by the fragrance, the beauty, the texture and the multiplicity of flavours of Vietnamese dishes.
Even more than the bánh mì stuffed baguette and the sweet milky coffee that are so obviously French-inspired, I relish the aroma of a steaming bowl of phở, with its notes of star anise, coriander seeds, hints of cinnamon and cloves, and fresh, fruity notes of herbs and citrus. The warmth of the broth is complemented perfectly by the bite of the noodles.
And how can you not love summer rolls? The pink of the prawns and green herbs showing through the translucent rice-paper wrap promise the lovely contrast of crunchy and smooth textures and fresh, savoury flavours.
Uyen Luu sets this wonderful cuisine in the context of her own family and kitchen. She tells us exactly what ingredients are needed for the most authentic experience of Vietnamese food (and we can be grateful that so many of these ingredients are now available in Britain, thanks to the Vietnamese emigrants who have settled here). But she is not a fusspot: she even gives her own, playful recipe for spaghetti Bolognese – and you have to look carefully at it to spot the splash of fish sauce that gives it a tiny Vietnamese twist. Her fish and chips variation involves raw tuna. Wonderful!
Playfulness is a characteristic of
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This passage discusses: I adore everything about Vietnamese food. Maybe it’s the Frenchman in me – and France has had a longer, stronger connection with Vietnam than the colonial one that lasted from 1887 to 1954 – but I’m excited by the fragrance, the beauty, the texture and the multiplicity of flavours of Vietnamese dishes.
Even more than the bánh mì stuffed baguette and the sweet milky coffee that are so obviously French-inspired, I relish the aroma of a steaming bowl of phở, with its notes of star anise, coriander ...
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van_hoa
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en
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Summarize this cultural or historical content:
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“Eat playfully”
I was born in Sài Gòn into a family who loves food. In the late 1970s and early 1980s after the Vietnam War, the country fell into extreme poverty and many people had their businesses, livelihoods, land and properties stripped away. There was a trade embargo, and food was scarce or even unavailable.
My grandmother, my father’s mother, was a great entrepreneur. In order to support her family in Sài Gòn, she opened up her front room, which led onto the street, to sell bún bò huế, the best noodle soup I ever remember eating.
My earliest childhood memory, which I savour, is of the taste and character of that soup. I sat on my little table in the corner and watched my grandmother serve bowl after bowl. She always smiled at the customers. I can recall watching her somewhere among the clouds of lemongrass-scented steam that surrounded her stall: her hair up in a bun, she was a round and handsomely chubby woman who would sniff me whenever I came near. The Vietnamese sniff to kiss.
Since we took refuge in London after the war, I have learnt everything about Vietnamese cooking from my mother, who raised me and my brother on a strict Vietnamese diet so that we would never forget where we came from and so that we would grow up with a sense of belonging. Vietnamese cuisine is one of the most flavoursome in the world, bursting with tangy freshness, sweet tastiness and umami spiciness! When cooking a Vietnamese dish, most of the work is in the preparation rather than on the
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This passage discusses: “Eat playfully”
I was born in Sài Gòn into a family who loves food. In the late 1970s and early 1980s after the Vietnam War, the country fell into extreme poverty and many people had their businesses, livelihoods, land and properties stripped away. There was a trade embargo, and food was scarce or even unavailable.
My grandmother, my father’s mother, was a great entrepreneur. In order to support her family in Sài Gòn, she opened up her front room, which led onto the street, to sell bún bò huế, t...
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van_hoa
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en
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Summarize this cultural or historical content:
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Ingredients
Herbs
The Vietnamese use herbs in abundance. Full of perfume, flavour and health benefits, they are used in almost every savoury dish. Coriander/cilantro, Thai sweet basil and mint are the most readily available, so if in doubt, use those. Find out when your nearest Asian store has their fresh vegetable delivery and try to buy your herbs that day.
1. COCKSCOMB MINT (kinh giới), also known as Vietnamese lemon balm, resembles minty lemon balm and is used in summer rolls, salads, fish and chicken dishes, and as a garnish in noodle soups. Also great with boiling water as a tea. Alternative herb: lemon balm, available from garden centres.
2. VIETNAMESE CELERY LEAVES (rau cần), both the narrow stems and strongly flavoursome leaves of which are used plentifully as a garnish. Stems are usually cooked.
3. PANDAN LEAVES (lá dứa) are narrow and long, with a distinct grassy flavour. Used in tea, rice and desserts, and as a green food dye. The leaves can be wrapped around food for grilling or steaming.
4. SAWTOOTH (ngò gai) tastes like intense coriander/cilantro and basil in one. Commonly used as a garnish in phở or with beef salad.
5. THAI SWEET BASIL (húng quế) acts as a garnish in noodle soups such as phở and bún bò Huế. The leaves taste and smell like aniseed, unlike European basil. Translates from the Vietnamese as “cinnamon basil” and originates from Thailand and Vietnam.
6. HOT MINT (rau răm) has a citrus coriander/cilantro aroma reminiscent of, but not related to, mint
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This passage discusses: Ingredients
Herbs
The Vietnamese use herbs in abundance. Full of perfume, flavour and health benefits, they are used in almost every savoury dish. Coriander/cilantro, Thai sweet basil and mint are the most readily available, so if in doubt, use those. Find out when your nearest Asian store has their fresh vegetable delivery and try to buy your herbs that day.
1. COCKSCOMB MINT (kinh giới), also known as Vietnamese lemon balm, resembles minty lemon balm and is used in summer rolls, salads, fish a...
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van_hoa
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en
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Summarize this cultural or historical content:
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Spices and condiments
1. FRESH GINGER (gừng) is considered a medicine or spice. Frequently used for its warm flavour and cleansing effects, it should be in every kitchen. Can be infused in hot water and drunk to aid digestion.
2. COCONUT CARAMEL OR COCONUT SAP SUGAR/HONEY (nước màu) is a sweet, smoky coconut caramel used to colour stews and add richness.
3. SÀI GÒN CINNAMON (quế thanh) is more like cassia bark than cinnamon. Adds a sweet and intense depth to broths and stews.
4. HOISIN SAUCE (tương đen) is a popular condiment for phở. It is also great as a central element for dipping sauces for gỏi cuốn. Made from soy sauce, soy beans, black beans, molasses and vinegar.
5. OYSTER SAUCE (dầu hào) is a Chinese condiment flavoured with oyster extract, great in stir-fries.
6. DEEP-FRIED SHALLOTS (Hành phi) are brilliant as a garnish for extra crunch and flavour.
7. CORIANDER SEEDS (hạt rau mùi) are used in broths.
8. BLACK PEPPER (hạt tiêu) is a common seasoning in broths and other dishes.
9. STAR ANISE (Đại hồi) flavours broths (phở) and stews. It is one of the traditional Chinese five spices.
10. PREMIUM FISH SAUCE (nước mắm) is a staple in Vietnamese cuisine. Made from fermented fish, water and salt, it is imperative to use a good-quality sauce – it will improve the flavour of your cooking immeasurably. Used as a seasoning in cooking as well as in a dipping sauce (nước chấm) with cold noodle salads and barbecue meat dishes.
11. SHRIMP PASTE (mắm ruốc) is pungent! Made from fer
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This passage discusses: Spices and condiments
1. FRESH GINGER (gừng) is considered a medicine or spice. Frequently used for its warm flavour and cleansing effects, it should be in every kitchen. Can be infused in hot water and drunk to aid digestion.
2. COCONUT CARAMEL OR COCONUT SAP SUGAR/HONEY (nước màu) is a sweet, smoky coconut caramel used to colour stews and add richness.
3. SÀI GÒN CINNAMON (quế thanh) is more like cassia bark than cinnamon. Adds a sweet and intense depth to broths and stews.
4. HOISIN SAUCE (tư...
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van_hoa
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