anchor stringlengths 20 28.5k | positive stringlengths 18 29k | prompt stringclasses 1
value | negative_1 stringlengths 20 29k | negative_2 stringlengths 20 29k | negative_3 stringlengths 20 28.6k | negative_4 stringlengths 19 29k | negative_5 stringlengths 18 29k | negative_6 stringlengths 20 28.6k | negative_7 stringlengths 18 28.6k |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
<p>I have been wanting to learn about 3D printing a long time so I really want this site to succeed but I have no previous experience with the subject. </p>
<p>I was wondering how can I help the site at this early stage. I thought about asking about how to get started with 3D printing but SE explicitly discourages "ea... | <h1>Vote!</h1>
<p>Private Betas love, love, <em>love</em> votes. Without votes, it's difficult to attain privileges, get rewards, and help push us out to public beta.</p>
<h1>Ask Questions!</h1>
<p>I know you said this:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I thought about asking about how to get started with 3D printing but SE ex... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I suggest browsing the regex tagged questions on this site and experiment with your own answers without peaking at the current ones. You don't need to post your answers, but I bet that sometimes you'll come up with answers that are worth publishing.</p>
<p>Three good things with this approach:</p>
<ol>
<li>You'll ... | <h2>First; find a model!</h2>
<p>To print something you require a <strong>model</strong> (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a> and <a href="https://www.myminifactory.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MyMiniFactory</a> for e... | <p>Experience. Solving something completely new is hard. The best way to solve problems is to try and find a problem that you've solved before, and that is similar, and adapt you solution to the new problem. So until you have experience with many different kinds of problems, it's hard to solve new problems that you... | <p>What about a wiki - at least then other people can start to contribute.<br>
Otherwise they are just going to rely on you for the manuals</p>
| <p>The question was migrated because the specific question of "<em>How do I tell if my Thermistors are 10k or 100k?</em>" is going to be best answered by users of Electrical Engineering SE. This also provides the SE network with more appropriate traffic based on the question at hand.</p>
<p>However, if the question of... | <p>If its a personal project then take this as an opportunity to learn something new.</p>
| <p>Help -> Welcome</p>
<p>That thing?</p>
|
<p>Stack exchange isn't a good platform for product recommendations in general, but a few sites allow it with a tight focus and control. Some that have allowed it in the past have decided to discontinue it for a variety of reasons.</p>
<p>I expect at the start we are going to get a lot of "What specific machine shoul... | <p>I agree with Jeff's blog post: <a href="https://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/">https://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/11/qa-is-hard-lets-go-shopping/</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>don't ask us what you should buy -- ask us <em>what you need to learn</em> to tell what you should buy.</p>
</blo... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I would like to nominate myself, <a href="https://stackexchange.com/users/526476/matt-clark">Matt Clark</a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://stackexchange.com/users/526476/matt-clark"><img src="http://stackexchange.com/users/flair/526476.png" width="208" height="58" alt="profile for Matt Clark on Stack Exchange, a network o... | <p>It should not be about merging of tags, rather we should come up with a proper terminology to identify the correct parts of the "build platform".</p>
<p>Basically, every printer consists of a frame with some sort of guide rails<sup>1</sup> moving a carriage. On this carriage a build surface is attached whe... | <p>Typically, it's a better idea to wait before you try to get this kind of thing integrated.</p>
<p>Enthusiasm is great in a private beta, but for the early stages, direct that enthusiasm towards the Q&A. That's what'll get this site on its feet and into a successful public beta.</p>
<p>When the site's more stab... | <p><strong>I say allow them.</strong> </p>
<p>To let you know what's out there, I work at <a href="http://hyrel3d.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hyrel</a>. </p>
<p>Our printers can take <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0lvN-aPYHI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">spindle (milling) heads and additional axes</a>, and... | <h2>Yes, we should have a <em>three</em> vote close question review queue</h2>
| <p>Things like Uservoice are great for generic suggestions and even finding bugs but they rarely answer your specific questions/concerns because that's not what they're there to do.</p>
<p>I also don't think they're that good at keeping a community together. Seriously. Pushing your users to another site where they hav... | <p>Here are few things to consider from my point of view</p>
<hr>
<p><strong>Printing technology</strong></p>
<p>The first thing that you need to take into account is printing technology. The most common[citation needed] right now is Fused Filament Fabrication. "Liquid light-sensitive resin" is being used in Stereol... |
<p>Given our successful private beta, soon after we go public it will be time for us to get our first crop of moderators, as explained in the <a href="http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/07/moderator-pro-tempore/">“Moderator Pro Tempore” blog post</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>About a week into the public beta, we will se... | <p>I would like to nominate myself, <a href="https://stackexchange.com/users/526476/matt-clark">Matt Clark</a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://stackexchange.com/users/526476/matt-clark"><img src="http://stackexchange.com/users/flair/526476.png" width="208" height="58" alt="profile for Matt Clark on Stack Exchange, a network o... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Here are some consequences of your design. These may or may not be what you intended, but I point them out so that you're aware of them.</p>
<ul>
<li><p>A very Mojo-ful user who has been mostly quiet is not going to care at all about stepping on some toes, because they have a huge bank of Mojo from which to draw. T... | <p><strong>Yes!</strong></p>
<p>Absolutely. We need to reward good answers, and raise rep levels so suers can get moderation privileges when they rise to the normal public beta levels.</p>
<p>However, I think we should also downvote poor questions and answers. I haven't yet done so, partly because I've focused on rew... | <p>See <a href="http://ask.metafilter.com/52003/Good-community-forum-software" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://ask.metafilter.com/52003/Good-community-forum-software</a></p>
<p>Options </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://getvanilla.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lussumo's Vanilla</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://www.simplem... | <p>The most important lesson with regard to the design of any social computing is that community dynamics problems cannot be solved purely by technological means.</p>
<p>In other words, whatever the solution you implement, if you have users to whom getting points (or trolling or getting involved in flame wars or whate... | <p>The creators of the site wrote about <a href="https://blog.stackoverflow.com/2008/12/vote-fraud-and-you/">Vote Fraud and You</a>.</p>
| <p>That sounds suspiciously like my Stack Overflow reputation score.</p>
| <p>How about a site equivalent to Rent-a-Coder but for non-profits to solicit volunteer or low-cost developers for public service projects (i.e. make your question easy for the next guy in an equivalent situation). Given the current economic troubles, there are likely to be both a lot of unemployed developers and a lo... |
<p>Is it realistic or thought neccesary to develop a plugin/feature for this site, to automatically add a small info-box about a thingiverse link? An example of this is Apple's 3D touch technology. In theory, the plugin could recogize thingiverse links in questions and answers, replace the link with an image and the au... | <p>Typically, it's a better idea to wait before you try to get this kind of thing integrated.</p>
<p>Enthusiasm is great in a private beta, but for the early stages, direct that enthusiasm towards the Q&A. That's what'll get this site on its feet and into a successful public beta.</p>
<p>When the site's more stab... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I think the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/adhesion" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'adhesion'" rel="tag">adhesion</a> tag should be used instead.</p>
| <p><em>Copied from chat</em></p>
<hr>
<p>I agree about the posting of the entire configuration file or G-code in a question is too big to fit, etc. What is really needed, and I've thought this for a long time, is a SE sanctioned version of PasteBin [functionality]. A persistent scrapbook/scratchpad site internal to S... | <p>I have been looking for something similar. The best I have come up with is <a href="http://opengrok.github.io/OpenGrok/" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="OpenGrok">OpenGrok</a>. I have not tried to implement it yet, but sounds promising.</p>
| <p>You can build an Interface Builder plug-in for this. It's fairly straight-forward. To get started, read the <a href="http://developer.apple.com/documentation/DeveloperTools/Conceptual/IBPlugInGuide/Introduction/chapter_1_section_1.html" rel="noreferrer">Interface Builder Plug-In Programming Guide</a>. It even has a ... | <p>I am the developer of something you might be looking for. It is still under heavy development and does not have all features you are looking for, but I am working hard on it and I am always open for feature and enhancement requests.</p>
<p>The plugin is called <a href="http://vrapper.sourceforge.net" rel="noreferre... | <p>No. This is not available in the SDK. If it's something you think would be useful, I suggest you <a href="http://bugreporter.apple.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">file an enhancement request</a>.</p>
| <p>Note that the tag editor <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/100669/feedback-wanted-improved-tag-editor">has been completely re-written now</a>, and no longer resembles the original, simple text box w/ suggestion drop-down that adorned the site for nearly three years. </p>
<p>If you're interested in t... |
<p>It is very easy to ask questions that only tangentially involve 3D printing, such as:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>How do I drill a hole in a 3D printed part?</p></li>
<li><p>How do I paint 3D printed parts?</p></li>
<li><p>How do I sand, smooth, etc...?</p></li>
<li><p>How do I take a picture with a 3D printed camera?</p></li>... | <p>The dividing line of "tangentially off topic" is typically when the <em>actual</em> subject of the question being asked is only <strong><em>coincidentally</em></strong> adjacent to 3D printing. </p>
<p>Here is a <em>clear</em> example illustrating the "tangential issue:"</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I printed a crane mec... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p><strong>I say allow them.</strong> </p>
<p>To let you know what's out there, I work at <a href="http://hyrel3d.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hyrel</a>. </p>
<p>Our printers can take <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0lvN-aPYHI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">spindle (milling) heads and additional axes</a>, and... | <p>Almost all 3D printers have issues that could cause health problems.</p>
<p>FDM/FFF printers heat plastic to a temperature that may cause it to off-gas, and these byproducts may not be healthy.</p>
<p>SLA printers often use epoxies that may off-gas, or may be somewhat toxic prior to being cured.</p>
<p>Powder bas... | <p>There are a lot of factors to 3D printing parts that work and fit together. </p>
<p>A lot of it will be discovered by trial and error, but let's try to put you on the right path. </p>
<p>First your material is what matters the most. Specifically their coefficient of thermal expansion, i.e. how much can the plastic... | <p>It is definitively possible to do what you want, but your questions are samewhat problematic:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>"hard enough" is a mysterious quantity. What is the intended application? The load of ... | <p>I stumbled across this forum/group, <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/english-forum-original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Original Prusa i3 MMU2S & MMU2</a>, amongst all of the other <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prusa printers forums</a> on t... | <h2>First; find a model!</h2>
<p>To print something you require a <strong>model</strong> (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a> and <a href="https://www.myminifactory.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MyMiniFactory</a> for e... | <p>Answer was moved to this question: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/147/which-are-the-food-safe-materials-and-how-do-i-recognize-them">Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?</a></p>
|
<p>This has inspired some discussion and I may be just splitting hairs, but I've always been confused by this strategy. The specific example I'm referring to is here: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/29/60">https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/29/60</a></p>
<p>In many cases on SE, I see people post "... | <p>Sometimes, "don't try to do what you're trying to do" is the only valid answer, see e.g. <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/66377/what-is-the-xy-problem">XY problem</a>.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Any overt form of censure on an existing user could lead to the forum equivalent of an arms race. One school of thought pushed on the SO podcasts is to flag the offending user and remove their posts from normal view, but include it when they (the bad user) are looking at the site. That way, they think the community ... | <p><em>Copied from chat</em></p>
<hr>
<p>I agree about the posting of the entire configuration file or G-code in a question is too big to fit, etc. What is really needed, and I've thought this for a long time, is a SE sanctioned version of PasteBin [functionality]. A persistent scrapbook/scratchpad site internal to S... | <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... | <h1>Vote!</h1>
<p>Private Betas love, love, <em>love</em> votes. Without votes, it's difficult to attain privileges, get rewards, and help push us out to public beta.</p>
<h1>Ask Questions!</h1>
<p>I know you said this:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I thought about asking about how to get started with 3D printing but SE ex... | <p>Good idea? No.</p>
<p>Sometimes necessary? Yes.</p>
<p>Living in a world where you sometimes have to do things you know aren't a good idea? Priceless.</p>
<p>In general, you should always follow best practices. For everything else, there's kludges.</p>
| <p>What is the problem? The “You’re Doing It Wrong!!” feeling is the essence of our existence. </p>
| <p>Regarding the "invisible modification", there is technically a modification made multiple times by the user <strong>Song Khmer</strong> (now destroyed). This user was posting nonsense to your question by copying text from your question and posting it as an answer.</p>
<p>The reason you probably did not see this in ... |
<p><strong>A big shout out to all of us for a successful graduation into private beta.
Let's make it a success now, and make sure we graduate into a full-fledged site.
So, this is one post which every user of a private beta site should read and act accordingly.</strong></p>
<p>This is a reproduction of a moderator's... | <p><strong>Yes!</strong></p>
<p>Absolutely. We need to reward good answers, and raise rep levels so suers can get moderation privileges when they rise to the normal public beta levels.</p>
<p>However, I think we should also downvote poor questions and answers. I haven't yet done so, partly because I've focused on rew... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>That sounds suspiciously like my Stack Overflow reputation score.</p>
| <p>I quite like what is done e.g. <a href="http://episteme.arstechnica.com/" rel="noreferrer">here</a>. If you look towards the bottom of the page, there's a piece of text "powered by eve community". If you click that text you get a small chunk of technical information.</p>
<p>To me, this is a nice tradeoff between ... | <p>In fact, <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/users/1">one of the people who created this site</a> made a <a href="http://www.codinghorror.com/blog/archives/000893.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">post regarding this</a> on his <a href="http://www.codinghorror.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">blog</a> </p>
| <p>First, accept the fact that problems with your app (code, usability, etc.) will be discovered.</p>
<p>Then, make sure you have a clear way for users to communicate with you (form mail, email, uservoice, etc.). The easier you make this the better. For example, there is a uservoice link on every page of SO.</p>
<p>O... | <p>There is a whole lot in the literature on voting systems, and a good bit of game theory can be applied. The issue that's difficult is that it's inherently probabilistic; you pick certain patterns as indicating <em>probable</em> fraud, and detect or exclude them; by doing so, you also exclude the possibility that so... | <p>Make a FAQ page or a tutorial covering some of the basics, that will eliminate quite a lot of questions.</p>
| <p>My understanding is that it is approximately the following from another <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/questions/24066/what-formula-should-be-used-to-determine-hot-questions">Jeff Atwood</a> post</p>
<pre><code>t = (time of entry post) - (Dec 8, 2005)
x = upvotes - downvotes
y = {1 if x > 0, 0 if x = 0, -1 ... |
<p>This site may attract questions such as</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Is it legal to sell 3D printed objects from a model repository?</p></li>
<li><p>Are 3D printed guns legal in my jurisdiction?</p></li>
<li><p>If my custom-built printer sets my house on fire, does the insurance cover it?</p></li>
</ul>
<p>Are such questions a... | <p>Yes, such questions should be on-topic. There can be partial overlap in sites' scopes, and unique legal issues involving 3D printing can be addressed here. Users of this site are more likely to have specific expertise than users on a site that deals with laws more generally.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>The tags <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support'" rel="tag">support</a> & <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support-structures" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support-s... | <p>$$\text{3D Printing Stack Exchange} \subset \text{Stack Exchange sites that use MathJax}$$</p>
<p>There are <a href="http://data.stackexchange.com/3dprinting/query/879802/mathjax-inline" rel="nofollow noreferrer">~17 posts</a> that could use an edit. Most of those are prices that have been converted into MathJax. ... | <p><a href="http://www.groklaw.net/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">groklaw</a> would seem to be a good starting point for open source issues</p>
| <p>Answer was moved to this question: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/147/which-are-the-food-safe-materials-and-how-do-i-recognize-them">Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?</a></p>
| <h1>Laundry list:</h1>
<h2>Open</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/438">e3d</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/436">Creality</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/434">Filled PLA</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Done</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href=... | <p>Food packaging needs to comply with regulations. One certification agency informing about these (and their service to certify for them) is <a href="https://www.tuv-sud.com/home-com/resource-centre/publications/e-ssentials-newsletter/food-health-e-ssentials/e-ssentials-3-2015/regulations-for-food-packaging-products-a... | <p>If the design was made from an artist and is not public domain, than you should not upload that scan without the (written) permission of the creator of the design. Espacially a scan of a decorative object will likely be protected, so costumers buy the original instead of printing itself or buy a printed version. If ... |
<p>I believe this question is asked on every private Beta... what should be the name of our chatroom?</p>
| <p><strong>The Hotbed.</strong></p>
<p>Colloquially, "hotbed" generally refers to a center of activity. Here, it will have a double meaning (referencing the hot bed of a 3D printer.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Typically, it's a better idea to wait before you try to get this kind of thing integrated.</p>
<p>Enthusiasm is great in a private beta, but for the early stages, direct that enthusiasm towards the Q&A. That's what'll get this site on its feet and into a successful public beta.</p>
<p>When the site's more stab... | <p>Why is the team choosing the name. Don't you have a manager? That's how organizations are supposed to work: if one level can't achieve the goal in a timely manner, escalate it up to the next level.</p>
<p>What a colossal waste of time!</p>
| <p>I do spend a lot of time as well worrying about the names of anything that can be given a name when I am programming. I'd say it pays off very well though. Sometimes when I am stuck I leave it for a while and during a coffee break I ask around a bit if someone has a good suggestion.</p>
<p>For your class I'd sugges... | <p>Precise is more important. The initial developer or you could have left a comment afterward to explain the naming if it is not a term that can easily be found in a dictionary or generally known to the audience.</p>
| <p>After further discussion within our working group, we ended up going with 'fieldset'. </p>
<p>Thanks for all the suggestions.</p>
| <p>Well, <a href="http://stackoverflow.com">stackoverflow.com</a> is.</p>
| <p>There is nothing wrong with naming your internal modules after your company; I always do this. 90% of my code ends up on CPAN, so it has "normal" names, but the internal stuff is always starts with <code>ClientName::</code>. </p>
<p>I'm sure everyone else does this too.</p>
|
<p>We currently have quite a few tags about filament:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/filament" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'filament'" rel="tag">filament</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/plastic-filament" ... | <p>All filament used in 3D printing is thermoplastic filament, so plastic-filament and thermoplastic-filament are redundant.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>To make the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/670/which-hotend-does-not-clog-and-is-good-to-use-with-a-bowden-1-75-mm-setup#comment-874">suggestion of Martin Carney</a> a real answer and shift things away from comments:</p>
<p>Yes, moisture and dust can be a problem. Find elaborations on the m... | <p>Big batches need you to be time efficient - or use a method that uses little work. So my suggestions are mainly needing oversight. Keep a fire extinguisher and safety gear handy though!</p>
<h1>Melting together</h1>
<p>Most filaments are melting at or around 200 °C.</p>
<p>I recently got rid of my box of (PLA) waste... | <h1>Vote!</h1>
<p>Private Betas love, love, <em>love</em> votes. Without votes, it's difficult to attain privileges, get rewards, and help push us out to public beta.</p>
<h1>Ask Questions!</h1>
<p>I know you said this:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I thought about asking about how to get started with 3D printing but SE ex... | <p><em>Copied from chat</em></p>
<hr>
<p>I agree about the posting of the entire configuration file or G-code in a question is too big to fit, etc. What is really needed, and I've thought this for a long time, is a SE sanctioned version of PasteBin [functionality]. A persistent scrapbook/scratchpad site internal to S... | <p>You can basically use any machine that pulverizes your pellets into small pieces.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/how-make-your-own-filament-recycling-old-3d-prints-part-1" rel="noreferrer"><strong>One guy on 3dhubs, explained it in details.</strong></a></p>
<p>My conclusion is that you can recy... | <p>It might seem that common 3D printer materials such as PLA and ABS should be capable of being autoclaved—unfortunately. However, although their melting temperatures are higher than autoclave temperature (typically 121ºC), their glass transition temperatures are below that limit so they can warp or undergo creep defo... | <p>I use them for searching for my stack (C#, ASP.NET, WinForms etc). I have them set up in Launchy as shortcuts.</p>
<p>I have posted some thoughts ideas on my <a href="http://cantgrokwontgrok.blogspot.com/2008/09/stackoverflow-crackoverflow-or.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">StackOverflow blog post</a> - feel free t... |
<p>When 3D Printing moves into public beta, you're going to want to get the word out. And fast! One of the best ways to advertise ourselves across the entire Stack Exchange network is through community ads. </p>
<h3>So what are these "Community Ads?"</h3>
<p>Graduated sites allow the community to advertise relevant p... | <p>I'll try my hand at it and try to get the ball rolling.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBJNE.png" alt="Been here?"></a></p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>$$\text{3D Printing Stack Exchange} \subset \text{Stack Exchange sites that use MathJax}$$</p>
<p>There are <a href="http://data.stackexchange.com/3dprinting/query/879802/mathjax-inline" rel="nofollow noreferrer">~17 posts</a> that could use an edit. Most of those are prices that have been converted into MathJax. ... | <p>Here's one:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.pinchmedia.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Pinch Media</a></li>
</ul>
<p>I'm making this Community Wiki so anyone can add to this list.</p>
| <pre><code><button runat="server"
style="background-image:url('/Content/Img/stackoverflow-logo-250.png')" >
your text here<br/>and some more<br/><br/> and some more ....
</button>
</code></pre>
| <p>I would use <a href="https://www.openx.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OpenX</a>, <a href="http://www.doubleclick.com/products/dfp/index.aspx" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DART</a>, <a href="https://www.google.com/admanager" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Google Ad Manager</a>, <a href="http://www.rightmedia.com/" rel="nofo... | <p>A step by step article on <a href="http://drnicwilliams.com/2006/11/21/diy-widgets/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">DIY widgets - How to embed your site on another site</a>. It reproduces the technique used by Google Adsense</p>
| <p>Per answer to <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/296832/what-are-the-limitations-in-beta">What are the limitations in Beta</a></p>
<p>"Inline videos is a feature that is off by default on all sites and only turned on if the community thinks it's necessary to improve the quality of a good portion of t... | <p>See <a href="http://ask.metafilter.com/52003/Good-community-forum-software" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://ask.metafilter.com/52003/Good-community-forum-software</a></p>
<p>Options </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://getvanilla.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Lussumo's Vanilla</a> </li>
<li><a href="http://www.simplem... |
<p>As you may or may not know, this is the third iteration of a proposal site that covers 3D Printing. The first 2 made it to the beta phase, but did not graduate from the beta successfully:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/41850/digital-fabrication">Digital Fabrication</a></li>
<li><a ... | <p>If someone has a question from one of those older sites, they should go ahead and ask it. But a wholesale importing of content from elsewhere is not really a desirable way to build this site. </p>
<p>There is a lot of ownership and careful curation that goes with vetting the content of this site. Questions imported... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>It should not be about merging of tags, rather we should come up with a proper terminology to identify the correct parts of the "build platform".</p>
<p>Basically, every printer consists of a frame with some sort of guide rails<sup>1</sup> moving a carriage. On this carriage a build surface is attached whe... | <p>For common problems that get asked a lot, I wouldn't just close these as <em>too broad.</em> A better solution is to create a <strong>canonical post</strong> like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://superuser.com/a/260078/697"><strong>How do I troubleshoot when I have no clue where to start?</strong></a></p>
<p>These at... | <p>Starting a new project without a thorough research of the available solutions and without taking into serious consideration the possibility to join an existing project, is something that the community should frown upon more emphatically. Maybe a programmer's education should include some discussion on the cost of ef... | <p>In fact, <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/users/1">one of the people who created this site</a> made a <a href="http://www.codinghorror.com/blog/archives/000893.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">post regarding this</a> on his <a href="http://www.codinghorror.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">blog</a> </p>
| <p>Typically, it's a better idea to wait before you try to get this kind of thing integrated.</p>
<p>Enthusiasm is great in a private beta, but for the early stages, direct that enthusiasm towards the Q&A. That's what'll get this site on its feet and into a successful public beta.</p>
<p>When the site's more stab... | <p>Well, <a href="http://stackoverflow.com">stackoverflow.com</a> is.</p>
| <p>I would recommend asking for a review of your site on <a href="http://news.ycombinator.com/news" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hacker News</a>. This site was created and maintained by <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Graham" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Paul Graham</a> who also founded <a href="http://en.wikiped... |
<p>I feel like questions along the lines of, "my printer is crashing for no obvious reason, what should I do?" may be too broad and open-ended for this format. It's better handled by a forum where people can have running discussions to rule out a series of tests. What do you guys think?</p>
| <p>For common problems that get asked a lot, I wouldn't just close these as <em>too broad.</em> A better solution is to create a <strong>canonical post</strong> like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://superuser.com/a/260078/697"><strong>How do I troubleshoot when I have no clue where to start?</strong></a></p>
<p>These at... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Yes, such questions should be on-topic. There can be partial overlap in sites' scopes, and unique legal issues involving 3D printing can be addressed here. Users of this site are more likely to have specific expertise than users on a site that deals with laws more generally.</p>
| <p>I completely agree! I just posted <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">my own reminder</a>, focusing more on efforts to get us out of Beta.</p>
<p>I'm sorry you can feel discouraged sometimes, I think a lot of users around the Stack Exchange network can feel t... | <h1>Vote!</h1>
<p>Private Betas love, love, <em>love</em> votes. Without votes, it's difficult to attain privileges, get rewards, and help push us out to public beta.</p>
<h1>Ask Questions!</h1>
<p>I know you said this:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I thought about asking about how to get started with 3D printing but SE ex... | <p>Sometimes, "don't try to do what you're trying to do" is the only valid answer, see e.g. <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/66377/what-is-the-xy-problem">XY problem</a>.</p>
| <p>$$\text{3D Printing Stack Exchange} \subset \text{Stack Exchange sites that use MathJax}$$</p>
<p>There are <a href="http://data.stackexchange.com/3dprinting/query/879802/mathjax-inline" rel="nofollow noreferrer">~17 posts</a> that could use an edit. Most of those are prices that have been converted into MathJax. ... | <p>This post, <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">3D Printing SE Beta Status</a>, by tbm0115 highlights the <em>three main</em> sticking points (IMHO clearer than the Area 51 page):</p>
<ul>
<li>Questions per day</li>
<li><strike>Users vs Reputation</strike></li>... | <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... |
<p>It's pretty manageable right now due to the low question rate, but I think maybe ~3% of all questions this site will get, forever, will be "what's the best printer" or "what printer should I buy" type questions. They're mostly coming from people who don't know enough about 3DP to articulate their requirements, so th... | <p>A good option would be to have several reference questions, such as "What to look for when comparing printers?" or "How to select a 3D printer?" to which we could redirect these users.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>As you suggest yourself, ordering test prints of some model is one way to do it. </p>
<p><a href="https://www.3dhubs.com">3D Hubs</a> and <a href="https://www.makexyz.com/">MakeXYZ</a> allows you to get your model printed by hobbyists and small businesses for a fair price. Both sites also allow you to order prints ... | <p>I stumbled across this forum/group, <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/english-forum-original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Original Prusa i3 MMU2S & MMU2</a>, amongst all of the other <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prusa printers forums</a> on t... | <p>You can learn a lot just by reading the forums. I'll just list a few that are quite popular...</p>
<p><a href="http://forums.reprap.org/" rel="nofollow">Reprap Forums</a> - Has a ton of information on DIY printers including build logs and posts dealing with many issues.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.soliforum.com" r... | <p>This question is unfortunately, not a good fit for this site, as it stands, for as you say it is opinion based. However, it is great to see that you are getting kids into a relatively new technology (yes, I know it has been around for years, but it is still seen as new to <em>big media</em> and the general public). ... | <p>Sometimes, "don't try to do what you're trying to do" is the only valid answer, see e.g. <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/66377/what-is-the-xy-problem">XY problem</a>.</p>
| <p>Things like Uservoice are great for generic suggestions and even finding bugs but they rarely answer your specific questions/concerns because that's not what they're there to do.</p>
<p>I also don't think they're that good at keeping a community together. Seriously. Pushing your users to another site where they hav... | <p>Welcome to the fantastic, sometimes frustrating but most often glorious world of 3D printing David! :)</p>
<p>Your question is really very very broad, but here's my contribution to make your first steps a success. First of all: I don't have experience with the Robo R2, but judging from the specs available online, ... |
<p><a href="https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/244366/how-do-i-tell-if-my-thermistors-are-10k-or-100k">This question</a> was migrated to electronics.SE. To me the migration makes no sense:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>The question deals with a problem that is relevant to the users of this site</p></li>
<li><p>This sit... | <p>The question was migrated because the specific question of "<em>How do I tell if my Thermistors are 10k or 100k?</em>" is going to be best answered by users of Electrical Engineering SE. This also provides the SE network with more appropriate traffic based on the question at hand.</p>
<p>However, if the question of... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I completely agree! I just posted <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">my own reminder</a>, focusing more on efforts to get us out of Beta.</p>
<p>I'm sorry you can feel discouraged sometimes, I think a lot of users around the Stack Exchange network can feel t... | <p>It should not be about merging of tags, rather we should come up with a proper terminology to identify the correct parts of the "build platform".</p>
<p>Basically, every printer consists of a frame with some sort of guide rails<sup>1</sup> moving a carriage. On this carriage a build surface is attached whe... | <p>Well done for bringing this up. I was looking at those numbers too. </p>
<p>Referring to <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/264/what-does-it-take-to-get-out-of-beta-stage/265#265">this post</a>, almost all of the stats are improving (albeit) slowly, except for one, the ApQ </p>
<blockquot... | <p>If someone has a question from one of those older sites, they should go ahead and ask it. But a wholesale importing of content from elsewhere is not really a desirable way to build this site. </p>
<p>There is a lot of ownership and careful curation that goes with vetting the content of this site. Questions imported... | <p>$$\text{3D Printing Stack Exchange} \subset \text{Stack Exchange sites that use MathJax}$$</p>
<p>There are <a href="http://data.stackexchange.com/3dprinting/query/879802/mathjax-inline" rel="nofollow noreferrer">~17 posts</a> that could use an edit. Most of those are prices that have been converted into MathJax. ... | <p><em>Copied from chat</em></p>
<hr>
<p>I agree about the posting of the entire configuration file or G-code in a question is too big to fit, etc. What is really needed, and I've thought this for a long time, is a SE sanctioned version of PasteBin [functionality]. A persistent scrapbook/scratchpad site internal to S... | <h1>Laundry list:</h1>
<h2>Open</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/458/8884">Filled PLA</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/459/8884">Repair vs. Maintenance</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Done</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/456/8884">... |
<p>I noticed that the most popular tag (82 questions tagged) is <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/3d-printer">3d-printer</a>, and that we also have a <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/3d-printing">3d-printing</a> tag (23 questions). These seem extremely redundan... | <p>This tag has been removed from the system and made intrinsic. </p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/untagged">Please cleanup the questions that now have no tags...</a></p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p><strong>I say allow them.</strong> </p>
<p>To let you know what's out there, I work at <a href="http://hyrel3d.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hyrel</a>. </p>
<p>Our printers can take <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0lvN-aPYHI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">spindle (milling) heads and additional axes</a>, and... | <p><em>Copied from chat</em></p>
<hr>
<p>I agree about the posting of the entire configuration file or G-code in a question is too big to fit, etc. What is really needed, and I've thought this for a long time, is a SE sanctioned version of PasteBin [functionality]. A persistent scrapbook/scratchpad site internal to S... | <p>I'll try my hand at it and try to get the ball rolling.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBJNE.png" alt="Been here?"></a></p>
| <p>These are <strong>NOT</strong> the same in a manufacturing, which 3D printing is primarily considered a part of.</p>
<p>Post-Processing typically refers to additional steps that must/can be done to produce the nominally desired part. These steps can include deburr, grind, and other additive/subtractive processing o... | <p>I would like to nominate myself, <a href="https://stackexchange.com/users/526476/matt-clark">Matt Clark</a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://stackexchange.com/users/526476/matt-clark"><img src="http://stackexchange.com/users/flair/526476.png" width="208" height="58" alt="profile for Matt Clark on Stack Exchange, a network o... | <p>All printers are designed with an idea of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WYSIWYG" rel="nofollow">WYSIWYG</a> for sure. Depending on:</p>
<ul>
<li>printer - type/quality/settings/configuration/assembly precission</li>
<li>filament - type/quality/shrinkage</li>
<li>user skills - manual/using app proficiency</... | <p>My guess is that it is a correlation between which tags are most often used together.</p>
<p>For example:</p>
<ul>
<li>Question A tagged with tag1, tag2</li>
<li>Question B tagged with tag1, tag3</li>
<li>Question C tagged with tag1, tag2</li>
</ul>
<p>Then it's natural to assume that tag2 "is related to" tag1.</... |
<p>In past few months, there are a devastatingly few number of users that cast up votes, and many of users aren't coming back to site, and existing users don't have so much reputation, because no one is voting up great questions / answers.</p>
<p>So... let me start like this..</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stack... | <p>I completely agree! I just posted <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">my own reminder</a>, focusing more on efforts to get us out of Beta.</p>
<p>I'm sorry you can feel discouraged sometimes, I think a lot of users around the Stack Exchange network can feel t... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>For common problems that get asked a lot, I wouldn't just close these as <em>too broad.</em> A better solution is to create a <strong>canonical post</strong> like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://superuser.com/a/260078/697"><strong>How do I troubleshoot when I have no clue where to start?</strong></a></p>
<p>These at... | <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... | <p>On a heavy-traffic site like Stack Overflow, I would only update the "last seen" variable when a user actually <em>does</em> something. Lurking around and reading questions and answers shouldn't count as a user being "seen" by the system. Asking and answering questions, or voting on them should be actions that upd... | <p>That sounds suspiciously like my Stack Overflow reputation score.</p>
| <p>The tags <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support'" rel="tag">support</a> & <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support-structures" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support-s... | <p>There is a whole lot in the literature on voting systems, and a good bit of game theory can be applied. The issue that's difficult is that it's inherently probabilistic; you pick certain patterns as indicating <em>probable</em> fraud, and detect or exclude them; by doing so, you also exclude the possibility that so... | <p>$$\text{3D Printing Stack Exchange} \subset \text{Stack Exchange sites that use MathJax}$$</p>
<p>There are <a href="http://data.stackexchange.com/3dprinting/query/879802/mathjax-inline" rel="nofollow noreferrer">~17 posts</a> that could use an edit. Most of those are prices that have been converted into MathJax. ... |
<p>This question may require migration to Meta.SE, as it could be a site-wide "bug", but I thought that I would test the waters here, to see if there is an obvious explanation.</p>
<p>I noticed that a question of mine had been modified, on April 16, by "Song Khmer" <strike>in the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexcha... | <p>Regarding the "invisible modification", there is technically a modification made multiple times by the user <strong>Song Khmer</strong> (now destroyed). This user was posting nonsense to your question by copying text from your question and posting it as an answer.</p>
<p>The reason you probably did not see this in ... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Click on your <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/users/52065/wololo">profile link</a> and look at the URLs for Stats, Recent, Response, etc.</p>
<p>Examples:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://stackoverflow.com/users/52065?sort=recent#sort-top">https://stackoverflow.com/users/52065?sort=recent#sort-top</a></li>
<li><a ... | <p>Another wild guess: SelectionChanged</p>
| <p>This only happens with conflicts - basically svn tried to merge the change in, but (roughly speaking) saw the change as:</p>
<p>Add</p>
<pre><code>2008-08-06 Mike Stone <myemail>
* changed_file: Details.
</code></pre>
<p>before</p>
<pre><code>2008-08-06 Someone Else <their_email>
</code></pre>
... | <p>The creators of the site wrote about <a href="https://blog.stackoverflow.com/2008/12/vote-fraud-and-you/">Vote Fraud and You</a>.</p>
| <p><a href="http://twiki.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TWiki</a> automatically merges <a href="http://twiki.org/cgi-bin/view/TWiki.SimultaneousEdits" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Simultaneous Edits</a>.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>TWiki allows multiple simultaneous edits of the same topic, and then merges the different change... | <p>Actually the problem was probably Firefox. When I clicked on <em>Answer you own question</em> here on Stackoverflow, I had the very same problem: My request, wasn't processed properly. I was sent back to the normal question view, without having the ability to submit my own answer.</p>
<p>So after a restart of Firef... | <p>I think that using before_filter on the edit action is the least obtrusive. </p>
<p>The referer should be reliable enough ... simply have a default in the case of no referer being available (say: someone bookmarked the edit page) and you should be fine. </p>
|
<p>I have just edited a new post, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4153/help-understanding-bridge-settings">Help understanding bridge settings</a>, so that the video would be "inlined" and playable in the post itself<sup>1</sup>.</p>
<p>However, the video does not show up, and only the ... | <p>Per answer to <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/296832/what-are-the-limitations-in-beta">What are the limitations in Beta</a></p>
<p>"Inline videos is a feature that is off by default on all sites and only turned on if the community thinks it's necessary to improve the quality of a good portion of t... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I know that you're currently using jQuery, but what if you defined the onclick handler inline. Then you could do:</p>
<pre><code> <a href='/link/for/non-js-users.htm' onclick='loadContent(5);return false;'>
Article 5</a>
</code></pre>
| <p>Are you sure you're interpreting the output correctly? If you print the file contents directly to your page output, a browser won't display text inside angle brackets because it thinks it's a tag. Serve your content as <code>text/plain</code>, or use your browser's "view source" command to make sure you're looking a... | <p>Why not use the <a href="http://www.w3schools.com/TAGS/tag_noscript.asp" rel="noreferrer"><code><noscript></code></a> tag? That's what it's intended for.</p>
| <p>Perhaps this has already been answered before @ Joomla forums itself.</p>
<p><a href="http://forum.joomla.org/viewtopic.php?f=431&t=272547" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://forum.joomla.org/viewtopic.php?f=431&t=272547</a></p>
| <p>You need to turn off showing whitespace characters. Menu: Edit > Advanced > View White Space.</p>
| <p>Talk about having a big "duh" moment! I found the answer after some trial & error:</p>
<pre><code><textarea spellcheck="false"></textarea>
</code></pre>
| <p>Try the following:</p>
<pre><code><style type="text/css">
div.test { width: 160px; font: 8pt arial,helvetica,sans-serif; border: 1px solid #999; overflow:hidden; }
div.test ul { margin: 0; padding: 0; list-style: none;}
div.test ul li { margin: 0 0 4px; }
div.test ul li a { display: inline-blo... |
<p>We have, now, assertained that <em>inlined videos</em> (for want of a better description) are currently turned off (disabled) for SE 3D Printing, but can be turned on at any time, and there is no need to wait for the site to exit Beta, see <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/226/is-the-inlin... | <p>Per answer to <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/296832/what-are-the-limitations-in-beta">What are the limitations in Beta</a></p>
<p>"Inline videos is a feature that is off by default on all sites and only turned on if the community thinks it's necessary to improve the quality of a good portion of t... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <h1>Vote!</h1>
<p>Private Betas love, love, <em>love</em> votes. Without votes, it's difficult to attain privileges, get rewards, and help push us out to public beta.</p>
<h1>Ask Questions!</h1>
<p>I know you said this:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I thought about asking about how to get started with 3D printing but SE ex... | <p>A good option would be to have several reference questions, such as "What to look for when comparing printers?" or "How to select a 3D printer?" to which we could redirect these users.</p>
| <p>As Steve Krug recommends in <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/0321344758" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Don't Make Me Think</a>, get rid of the question marks that pop in the user's head when they come to your site. If it is confusing it isn't likely to be helpful.</p>
<p>... | <p>The tags <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support'" rel="tag">support</a> & <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support-structures" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support-s... | <p>I think a direct insertion with a progressive (and slow) change of background color would do the trick... I find it especially effective on SO itself.</p>
| <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... | <p>It all depends on how it would be implemented.<br>It could be a good thing, but just in case I would like it to be optional:)</p>
|
<p>I can't find an answer to this question on the "mother" meta website; hope this is not related to my choice of words in the search box. </p>
<p>The statistics of the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/">3D Printing</a> on <a href="http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/82438/3d-printing">Area51</a> sh... | <p>This post, <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">3D Printing SE Beta Status</a>, by tbm0115 highlights the <em>three main</em> sticking points (IMHO clearer than the Area 51 page):</p>
<ul>
<li>Questions per day</li>
<li><strike>Users vs Reputation</strike></li>... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I would recommend asking for a review of your site on <a href="http://news.ycombinator.com/news" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hacker News</a>. This site was created and maintained by <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Graham" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Paul Graham</a> who also founded <a href="http://en.wikiped... | <p>Typically, it's a better idea to wait before you try to get this kind of thing integrated.</p>
<p>Enthusiasm is great in a private beta, but for the early stages, direct that enthusiasm towards the Q&A. That's what'll get this site on its feet and into a successful public beta.</p>
<p>When the site's more stab... | <p>The tags <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support'" rel="tag">support</a> & <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support-structures" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support-s... | <p>The question was migrated because the specific question of "<em>How do I tell if my Thermistors are 10k or 100k?</em>" is going to be best answered by users of Electrical Engineering SE. This also provides the SE network with more appropriate traffic based on the question at hand.</p>
<p>However, if the question of... | <p>A good option would be to have several reference questions, such as "What to look for when comparing printers?" or "How to select a 3D printer?" to which we could redirect these users.</p>
| <p>On a heavy-traffic site like Stack Overflow, I would only update the "last seen" variable when a user actually <em>does</em> something. Lurking around and reading questions and answers shouldn't count as a user being "seen" by the system. Asking and answering questions, or voting on them should be actions that upd... | <p>My understanding is that it is approximately the following from another <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/questions/24066/what-formula-should-be-used-to-determine-hot-questions">Jeff Atwood</a> post</p>
<pre><code>t = (time of entry post) - (Dec 8, 2005)
x = upvotes - downvotes
y = {1 if x > 0, 0 if x = 0, -1 ... |
<p>What is the difference between <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/post-production" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'post-production'" rel="tag">post-production</a> and <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/post-processing" class="post-tag" ti... | <p>These are <strong>NOT</strong> the same in a manufacturing, which 3D printing is primarily considered a part of.</p>
<p>Post-Processing typically refers to additional steps that must/can be done to produce the nominally desired part. These steps can include deburr, grind, and other additive/subtractive processing o... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>The dividing line of "tangentially off topic" is typically when the <em>actual</em> subject of the question being asked is only <strong><em>coincidentally</em></strong> adjacent to 3D printing. </p>
<p>Here is a <em>clear</em> example illustrating the "tangential issue:"</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I printed a crane mec... | <p>You should have a <strong>policy for the format</strong> of the tags (e.g. tags should be singular). Depending on how diverse the tags are, it might be useful not only to auto-complete while you are typing in a tag, but also to <strong>suggest similar tags</strong>, so that it is easy for people to use the tag syste... | <p>It works, but it is not normalized, because you have redundancy in the tags. You also lose the ability to use the "same" tags to tag things besides posts. For small N, optimization doesn't matter, so I have no problems if you run with it.</p>
<p>As a practical matter, your indexes will be larger (assuming you are... | <p>My guess is that it is a correlation between which tags are most often used together.</p>
<p>For example:</p>
<ul>
<li>Question A tagged with tag1, tag2</li>
<li>Question B tagged with tag1, tag3</li>
<li>Question C tagged with tag1, tag2</li>
</ul>
<p>Then it's natural to assume that tag2 "is related to" tag1.</... | <p>Starting a new project without a thorough research of the available solutions and without taking into serious consideration the possibility to join an existing project, is something that the community should frown upon more emphatically. Maybe a programmer's education should include some discussion on the cost of ef... | <p>$$\text{3D Printing Stack Exchange} \subset \text{Stack Exchange sites that use MathJax}$$</p>
<p>There are <a href="http://data.stackexchange.com/3dprinting/query/879802/mathjax-inline" rel="nofollow noreferrer">~17 posts</a> that could use an edit. Most of those are prices that have been converted into MathJax. ... | <p>In Subversion they are the same thing - they are implemented the same way and the results are the same (aside from your repo hierarchy). They are just references to a specific revision of the repository. No real copies are made. When you start working on a branch (in the real sense of the word) then you are using... |
<p><em>Please note; Due to its very nature, this post is very subjective and is <strong>not</strong> intended to be a definitive list of categories. It is merely an attempt to offer one perspective of what has been suggested, and to ask "How should we move forward?"</em></p>
<hr />
<p>Sometimes it is a bit ha... | <p>A couple of points:</p>
<p>Asking for a machine to solve a specific problem, or software which can do something 'specific' is not really a shopping question, so long as the question is asked in the right way. We do need to avoid subjective questions, but sometimes this can be the result of a misunderstanding (i.e. ... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>If someone has a question from one of those older sites, they should go ahead and ask it. But a wholesale importing of content from elsewhere is not really a desirable way to build this site. </p>
<p>There is a lot of ownership and careful curation that goes with vetting the content of this site. Questions imported... | <p>Make a FAQ page or a tutorial covering some of the basics, that will eliminate quite a lot of questions.</p>
| <p><strong>I say allow them.</strong> </p>
<p>To let you know what's out there, I work at <a href="http://hyrel3d.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hyrel</a>. </p>
<p>Our printers can take <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0lvN-aPYHI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">spindle (milling) heads and additional axes</a>, and... | <p>I'd go with the simplest model; each question is a heading, with answers in paragraph tags. Clear, logical and semantically sane, I think.</p>
<p>The reason I wouldn't use the definition list tags mentioned is that I don't think, from a pure semantic point of view, that questions and answers fit the mould of pure t... | <p>Sometimes, "don't try to do what you're trying to do" is the only valid answer, see e.g. <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/66377/what-is-the-xy-problem">XY problem</a>.</p>
| <p>You should have a <strong>policy for the format</strong> of the tags (e.g. tags should be singular). Depending on how diverse the tags are, it might be useful not only to auto-complete while you are typing in a tag, but also to <strong>suggest similar tags</strong>, so that it is easy for people to use the tag syste... | <p>I use them for searching for my stack (C#, ASP.NET, WinForms etc). I have them set up in Launchy as shortcuts.</p>
<p>I have posted some thoughts ideas on my <a href="http://cantgrokwontgrok.blogspot.com/2008/09/stackoverflow-crackoverflow-or.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">StackOverflow blog post</a> - feel free t... |
<p>There are times when certain standardised comments are called for.</p>
<p>Here are some examples (the links go to the various sections below, under the Answers):</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-305">General comments</a></li>
<li>Pr... | <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I quite like what is done e.g. <a href="http://episteme.arstechnica.com/" rel="noreferrer">here</a>. If you look towards the bottom of the page, there's a piece of text "powered by eve community". If you click that text you get a small chunk of technical information.</p>
<p>To me, this is a nice tradeoff between ... | <p>The three common markups I know of for this purpose are <a href="http://daringfireball.net/projects/markdown/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Markdown</a> (used, I believe, by SO), <a href="http://www.textism.com/tools/textile/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">textile</a>, and <a href="http://pear.php.net/pepr/pepr-bbcode-help... | <p>I use them for searching for my stack (C#, ASP.NET, WinForms etc). I have them set up in Launchy as shortcuts.</p>
<p>I have posted some thoughts ideas on my <a href="http://cantgrokwontgrok.blogspot.com/2008/09/stackoverflow-crackoverflow-or.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">StackOverflow blog post</a> - feel free t... | <p>As a former prominent member of standards committees (C#, CLI), I personally appreciated public input on the standard. We, in fact, released interim draft standards a couple of times and got some public eyes on them before they were officially ratified.</p>
<p>It's all about getting a fresh pair of eyes -- the folk... | <p>You should always leave good comments. Not necessarily describing <em>what</em> you changed, unless it is a large changeset with too many distracting little details... but always, <strong>always</strong>, describe <em>why</em> you made the change (maybe link to a bug tracker item if there is one). </p>
<p>When i'm ... | <p>Good documentation should explain "why", not just "what". Why would I want to use this feature? What scenarios is it good for?</p>
<p>That, and it must have good search facilities.</p>
| <p>I assume that the reason you want nested comments at all is because your users tend to want to read through a single thread of interest at a time. That is, you have reason to believe users will create threads of coherent chains of thought, and/or what gets discussed in one thread will interest some users but not oth... |
<p>Our site is dealing with electronics and practical engineering, so we use formulas in questions and answers on occasion, most usually when we have to figure out electronic ratings. </p>
<p>When we talk about the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/760/analytic-equations-to-make-algorithm-of-3d-p... | <p>$$\text{3D Printing Stack Exchange} \subset \text{Stack Exchange sites that use MathJax}$$</p>
<p>There are <a href="http://data.stackexchange.com/3dprinting/query/879802/mathjax-inline" rel="nofollow noreferrer">~17 posts</a> that could use an edit. Most of those are prices that have been converted into MathJax. ... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Try <code>$\stackrel{top}{bottom}$</code></p>
<p>You'd want something like this:</p>
<pre><code>$X \stackrel{+}{=} Y$
</code></pre>
<p>This positions the plus sign above the equals sign. For example, the following code:</p>
<pre><code>$K(x,y|z) \stackrel{+}{=} K(x|z) \stackrel{+}{<} I(x:y|z)$
</code></pre>
<... | <p>You'll have to implement it yourself, but you should bear in mind that implementing a Formatter is not a simple task, as it has many l10n considerations.</p>
| <p>I personally believe in LaTeX.
Benefits:</p>
<ul>
<li>You can focus on content over form.</li>
<li>Use logical rather than semantic formatting (e.g., \methodname vs. just italic).</li>
<li>Easier to assemble large documents from multiple files. </li>
<li>Use text-based version control (CVS/SVN/etc.)</li>
<li>Widely... | <p>I'll try my hand at it and try to get the ball rolling.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBJNE.png" alt="Been here?"></a></p>
| <p>Here's <a href="http://procrastiblog.com/2007/11/25/style-guidelines-for-people/" rel="noreferrer">what I use</a>, which was mostly cribbed from <a href="http://luca.cse.ucsc.edu/Style_guidelines_for_student_co-authors" rel="noreferrer">Luca de Alfaro</a>:</p>
<pre><code>(defun fill-sentence ()
(interactive)
(s... | <p>I convert bitmaps into PNG, and vector graphics (e.g. SVG) into PDF. <em>pdflatex</em> understand both PNG and PDF.</p>
| <p>Completely agree that it's reasonable. There's nothing to prevent you from implementing the formatting you want yourself in your own reusable library.</p>
|
<p>I'm seeing a current trend towards many questions only receiving a single answer, and according the the <a href="http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/82438/3d-printing">Area 51</a> stats, we ought to have an <em>average</em> closer to 2.5. Granted that some questions are really only in need of a single (obvious... | <p>Well done for bringing this up. I was looking at those numbers too. </p>
<p>Referring to <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/264/what-does-it-take-to-get-out-of-beta-stage/265#265">this post</a>, almost all of the stats are improving (albeit) slowly, except for one, the ApQ </p>
<blockquot... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>A good option would be to have several reference questions, such as "What to look for when comparing printers?" or "How to select a 3D printer?" to which we could redirect these users.</p>
| <p>I would like to nominate myself, <a href="https://stackexchange.com/users/526476/matt-clark">Matt Clark</a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://stackexchange.com/users/526476/matt-clark"><img src="http://stackexchange.com/users/flair/526476.png" width="208" height="58" alt="profile for Matt Clark on Stack Exchange, a network o... | <p>Look at this SO blog post: <a href="https://blog.stackoverflow.com/2008/10/solving-the-fastest-gun-in-the-west-problem/">https://blog.stackoverflow.com/2008/10/solving-the-fastest-gun-in-the-west-problem/</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>That said, the one implementable
recommendation that came out of this
discussion is an a... | <p>If someone has a question from one of those older sites, they should go ahead and ask it. But a wholesale importing of content from elsewhere is not really a desirable way to build this site. </p>
<p>There is a lot of ownership and careful curation that goes with vetting the content of this site. Questions imported... | <p>A couple of points:</p>
<p>Asking for a machine to solve a specific problem, or software which can do something 'specific' is not really a shopping question, so long as the question is asked in the right way. We do need to avoid subjective questions, but sometimes this can be the result of a misunderstanding (i.e. ... | <p>Typically, it's a better idea to wait before you try to get this kind of thing integrated.</p>
<p>Enthusiasm is great in a private beta, but for the early stages, direct that enthusiasm towards the Q&A. That's what'll get this site on its feet and into a successful public beta.</p>
<p>When the site's more stab... | <p>Here are some consequences of your design. These may or may not be what you intended, but I point them out so that you're aware of them.</p>
<ul>
<li><p>A very Mojo-ful user who has been mostly quiet is not going to care at all about stepping on some toes, because they have a huge bank of Mojo from which to draw. T... |
<p>I see a number of people writing "CURA", when I have always called it "Cura". So I started to wonder if CURA was a <em>capitalised</em> acronym, like LiDAR or NATO (but not like radar or laser).</p>
<p>I had a look and the Wikipedia entry, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cura_(software)" rel="nofollow norefe... | <p>As of version 4 the splash screen has changed, also the branding/naming of the product throughout Ultimaker's website.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1eX3U.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1eX3U.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Technically it is not <... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>You may not want to change the capitalization -- different cultures capitalize different words (for example, in German you capitalize every noun, not just proper nouns).</p>
| <p>From <a href="http://www.python.org/dev/peps/pep-0285/" rel="noreferrer">Pep 285</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Should the constants be called 'True'
and 'False' (similar to
None) or 'true' and 'false' (as in C++, Java and C99)?</p>
<p>=> True and False.</p>
<p>Most reviewers agree that consistency... | <p>It was mentioned once before in the SO question, <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/questions/472103/lower-case-k-in-cocoa">Lower case "k" in Cocoa</a>.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It is a general programming notation
not specific to Objective-C (i.e.
Hungarian Notation) and the "k" stands for "cons... | <p>In Java, <code>java.lang.System.arraycopy</code> - note the lowercase second c.</p>
<p>Also <code>NullPointerException</code> in Java is better as <code>NullReferenceException</code> in .NET.</p>
<p><code>AppDomain</code> violates the convention of <em>normally</em> not using abbreviations.</p>
<p><code>Control.I... | <p>What a can of worms you've opened.</p>
<p>The C++ standard library uses <strong>underscore_notation</strong> for everything, because that's what the C standard library uses.</p>
<p>So if you want your code to look consistent across the board (and actually aren't using external libraries), that is the only way to g... | <p>Precise is more important. The initial developer or you could have left a comment afterward to explain the naming if it is not a term that can easily be found in a dictionary or generally known to the audience.</p>
| <p>From <a href="http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/565w213d.aspx" rel="noreferrer">MSDN</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Use of two sequential underscore characters ( __ ) at the beginning of an identifier, or a single leading underscore followed by a capital letter, is reserved for C++ implementations in all scopes. ... |
<p>We have two tags: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support'" rel="tag">support</a> & <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support-structures" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged '... | <p>The tags <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support'" rel="tag">support</a> & <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/support-structures" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'support-s... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>This post, <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">3D Printing SE Beta Status</a>, by tbm0115 highlights the <em>three main</em> sticking points (IMHO clearer than the Area 51 page):</p>
<ul>
<li>Questions per day</li>
<li><strike>Users vs Reputation</strike></li>... | <p>The question was migrated because the specific question of "<em>How do I tell if my Thermistors are 10k or 100k?</em>" is going to be best answered by users of Electrical Engineering SE. This also provides the SE network with more appropriate traffic based on the question at hand.</p>
<p>However, if the question of... | <p>I use them for searching for my stack (C#, ASP.NET, WinForms etc). I have them set up in Launchy as shortcuts.</p>
<p>I have posted some thoughts ideas on my <a href="http://cantgrokwontgrok.blogspot.com/2008/09/stackoverflow-crackoverflow-or.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">StackOverflow blog post</a> - feel free t... | <p>A good option would be to have several reference questions, such as "What to look for when comparing printers?" or "How to select a 3D printer?" to which we could redirect these users.</p>
| <p>I'd go with the simplest model; each question is a heading, with answers in paragraph tags. Clear, logical and semantically sane, I think.</p>
<p>The reason I wouldn't use the definition list tags mentioned is that I don't think, from a pure semantic point of view, that questions and answers fit the mould of pure t... | <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... | <h2>Print/material specific settings</h2>
<p>If you are printing <em><strong>too hot with too less distance</strong></em>, <em><strong>the support just fuses to the print object</strong></em>. Extra cooling, lower print temperature and support distance should be in balance to create easy to remove support structures wi... |
<p>We were offered to <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/314/can-we-get-mathjax-enabled">get MathJax enabled</a>.</p>
<p>Now, we need to decide on which character to have text between them parsed into MathJax! So please either add your suggestion or cast your vote!</p>
| <p>Let's stay with the classic $.</p>
<p>Example: \$\$\frac{1 \times 2}{2} = 1\$\$</p>
<hr>
<p><em>Now that MathJax is enabled, it renders to:
$$\frac{1 \times 2}{2} = 1$$</em></p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I think the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/adhesion" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'adhesion'" rel="tag">adhesion</a> tag should be used instead.</p>
| <p>The three common markups I know of for this purpose are <a href="http://daringfireball.net/projects/markdown/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Markdown</a> (used, I believe, by SO), <a href="http://www.textism.com/tools/textile/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">textile</a>, and <a href="http://pear.php.net/pepr/pepr-bbcode-help... | <p>Unfortunately there's no nice way to write "space but not a newline".</p>
<p>I think the best you can do is add some space with the <code>x</code> modifier and try to factor out the ugliness a bit, but that's questionable: <code>(?x) (?: [ \t\r\f\v]*? \n ){2} [ \t\r\f\v]*?</code></p>
<p>You could also try creati... | <p>What about one or more em spaces (&emsp;)? Granted, this would depend on what the user's font size is. If that doesn't really work in your design, consider an en space (&ensp;).</p>
<p>You might also want to look at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Space_(punctuation)#Table_of_spaces" rel="noreferrer">... | <p>(community wiki for voting)</p>
<p>internationalization / localization<br>
i18n / l10n</p>
| <p>You could try changing <code>\newcommand</code> to <code>\newenvironment</code> and then use something like</p>
<pre><code>\begin{solution}
\begin{verbatim}
[ascii art here]
\end{verbatim}
\end{solution}
</code></pre>
| <p>I'll try my hand at it and try to get the ball rolling.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBJNE.png" alt="Been here?"></a></p>
|
<p>Tag <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/nylon" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'nylon'" rel="tag">nylon</a> exists already, but I think it would be incredibly useful to have a TPE/TPU tag and a tag for all flexibles as a category.</p>
<p><strong>EDIT:</strong> It has... | <p>Let's stay with the classic $.</p>
<p>Example: \$\$\frac{1 \times 2}{2} = 1\$\$</p>
<hr>
<p><em>Now that MathJax is enabled, it renders to:
$$\frac{1 \times 2}{2} = 1$$</em></p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p><strong>FDM printer?</strong><br>
If you want to print one, maybe you should outsource it (let it print the tag on both sides), even the most affordable printers are in the \$100 - \$150 price range. If you want a printer and use it also to create ID tags, you could go for an FDM printer. Considering your request of... | <blockquote>
<p>I am asking if there is a machine that can turn a plastic bottle into usable filament.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I've seen several projects (<a href="https://hackaday.com/2021/06/29/petbot-turn-pet-bottles-into-filament/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">one example</a>, and <a href="https://youtu.be/Eecbdb0bQWQ" r... | <p>You should have a <strong>policy for the format</strong> of the tags (e.g. tags should be singular). Depending on how diverse the tags are, it might be useful not only to auto-complete while you are typing in a tag, but also to <strong>suggest similar tags</strong>, so that it is easy for people to use the tag syste... | <p>Yes, such questions should be on-topic. There can be partial overlap in sites' scopes, and unique legal issues involving 3D printing can be addressed here. Users of this site are more likely to have specific expertise than users on a site that deals with laws more generally.</p>
| <p>I must admit, I've never printed a key...but I think I can help anyway:</p>
<p><strong>Print method:</strong>
Consider printing on side, solid concentric infill. Or, if you can't manipulate your infill pattern, just increase the perimeter so you get the same effect, several continuous perimeter layers around the o... | <p>The question was migrated because the specific question of "<em>How do I tell if my Thermistors are 10k or 100k?</em>" is going to be best answered by users of Electrical Engineering SE. This also provides the SE network with more appropriate traffic based on the question at hand.</p>
<p>However, if the question of... | <p>Answer was moved to this question: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/147/which-are-the-food-safe-materials-and-how-do-i-recognize-them">Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?</a></p>
|
<p>For those who did not know, linking to off-site content in answers is a no-go at SE sites unless you provide context. From <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/how-to-answer">help</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>Provide context for links</strong><br>Links to external resources are encouraged,
but... | <p><em>Copied from chat</em></p>
<hr>
<p>I agree about the posting of the entire configuration file or G-code in a question is too big to fit, etc. What is really needed, and I've thought this for a long time, is a SE sanctioned version of PasteBin [functionality]. A persistent scrapbook/scratchpad site internal to S... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Most likely what is hapening is they are giving you a link to a script that is building the image and returning it on the fly, there is nothing aside from no allowing users to use external images, that you can do about it, one option to prevent it is to download and store the image on your server as opposed to linki... | <p>One thing to mention on the SEO front:</p>
<p>As a lot of the "results" pages will be linking through to the same content, there are a couple of advantages to appearing* to have different URLs for these pages:</p>
<ol>
<li>Some search engines get cross if you appear to have duplicate content on the site, or if the... | <p>Make a FAQ page or a tutorial covering some of the basics, that will eliminate quite a lot of questions.</p>
| <p>You cannot allow links but you <strong>can</strong> have newlines.</p>
<p>Just use "\n" for a newline instead of <code><br/></code>.</p>
| <p>Throw it up on an open source website and attach a bunch of good keywords to help search engines find it. If someone's looking for it, they'll find it and be able to use it. </p>
| <p>All SO-URLs are of the form id/description where the ID is unique and the description is optional. So <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/users/12890/arne.burmeister"><code>/users/12890/arne-burmeister</code></a> is the same as <a href="https://stackoverflow.com/users/12890/huhu"><code>/users/12890/huhu</code></a> an... | <p>I'll try my hand at it and try to get the ball rolling.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBJNE.png" alt="Been here?"></a></p>
|
<p>I don't want to ask off-topic and opinion questions here, but I would like to find a cadre of others dialing in their devices.
Any ideas?</p>
| <p>I stumbled across this forum/group, <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/english-forum-original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Original Prusa i3 MMU2S & MMU2</a>, amongst all of the other <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prusa printers forums</a> on t... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <ul>
<li>Google's android groups </li>
</ul>
<p>This is probably the best place to go. However, a good search on google will most likely take you to one of these discussion anyways. Here, you can discuss about your difficulties possibly with the core developers too.</p>
<ul>
<li>Anddev.org </li>
</ul>
<p>They're pro... | <p>I haven't had a chance to check it out, but the <a href="http://groups.google.com/group/virtualaltnet?hl=en" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Virtual ALT.NET</a> group sounds promising.</p>
| <p>This may not be an exact fit, but worth looking at: <a href="http://www.surveymonkey.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Surveymonkey</a>.</p>
| <p>You could use <a href="http://www.spread.org/" rel="noreferrer">Spread</a> to do group communication.</p>
| <p>Jeff Atwood recommends using Stack Overflow for this kind of thing. Post a question (your problem) and then post an answer (the solution you found). This lets you share the information with the world, and maybe get some valuable feedback or better solutions.</p>
<p>(Wow, I got downvoted for repeating what Jeff At... | <p>The official <a href="http://groups.google.com/group/rubyonrails-talk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ruby On Rails Talk</a> mailing list is a good spot for discussion. I also tend to go to <code>#rubyonrails</code> irc channel on irc.freenode.net with my questions. There tend to be lots of helpful folks there.</p>
| <p>I guess there is none (at least that is popular enough for users here to be aware of).</p>
<p>We've went ahead to code our own Search system.</p>
|
<p>I found this question, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10010/laser-is-engraving-the-negative-space">laser is engraving the negative space</a> in the close queue this morning as being off topic. I was about to respond, and through I'd look at the community view on meta. I found this question... | <p><strong>I say allow them.</strong> </p>
<p>To let you know what's out there, I work at <a href="http://hyrel3d.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hyrel</a>. </p>
<p>Our printers can take <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0lvN-aPYHI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">spindle (milling) heads and additional axes</a>, and... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>All printers are designed with an idea of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WYSIWYG" rel="nofollow">WYSIWYG</a> for sure. Depending on:</p>
<ul>
<li>printer - type/quality/settings/configuration/assembly precission</li>
<li>filament - type/quality/shrinkage</li>
<li>user skills - manual/using app proficiency</... | <p><strong>Yes!</strong></p>
<p>Absolutely. We need to reward good answers, and raise rep levels so suers can get moderation privileges when they rise to the normal public beta levels.</p>
<p>However, I think we should also downvote poor questions and answers. I haven't yet done so, partly because I've focused on rew... | <p>Here are few things to consider from my point of view</p>
<hr>
<p><strong>Printing technology</strong></p>
<p>The first thing that you need to take into account is printing technology. The most common[citation needed] right now is Fused Filament Fabrication. "Liquid light-sensitive resin" is being used in Stereol... | <p><em>Copied from chat</em></p>
<hr>
<p>I agree about the posting of the entire configuration file or G-code in a question is too big to fit, etc. What is really needed, and I've thought this for a long time, is a SE sanctioned version of PasteBin [functionality]. A persistent scrapbook/scratchpad site internal to S... | <p>Yes and No at the same time:</p>
<h1>3D Printing is a subset of Additive Manufacturing</h1>
<h3>but treated as a synonym at this time</h3>
<p>3D printing is a process that takes some material, in a fluid state that fuses with the model to shape an object from it. The material could be plastics, ceramic paste or even... | <h2>Yes, we should have a <em>three</em> vote close question review queue</h2>
| <blockquote>
<p>One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Short answer: "Yes, for some it does".</p>
<hr>
<p>The results from your image are typically seen when the initial layer height for PETG is too small. PETG likes an additional gap o... |
<p>Should we really close this question: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10200/3d-printer-part-clones-from-china-legality">3d printer part clones from china - legality</a>..? </p>
<p>Are legal questions on topic? We have a legal section in the <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com... | <p><strong>I say allow them.</strong> </p>
<p>To let you know what's out there, I work at <a href="http://hyrel3d.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hyrel</a>. </p>
<p>Our printers can take <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0lvN-aPYHI" rel="nofollow noreferrer">spindle (milling) heads and additional axes</a>, and... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... | <p>For common problems that get asked a lot, I wouldn't just close these as <em>too broad.</em> A better solution is to create a <strong>canonical post</strong> like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://superuser.com/a/260078/697"><strong>How do I troubleshoot when I have no clue where to start?</strong></a></p>
<p>These at... | <p><a href="http://www.groklaw.net/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">groklaw</a> would seem to be a good starting point for open source issues</p>
| <h1>Vote!</h1>
<p>Private Betas love, love, <em>love</em> votes. Without votes, it's difficult to attain privileges, get rewards, and help push us out to public beta.</p>
<h1>Ask Questions!</h1>
<p>I know you said this:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I thought about asking about how to get started with 3D printing but SE ex... | <p>This is not a technical question, it is a legal question. Ask a lawyer licensed to practice in your area.</p>
| <p>It should not be about merging of tags, rather we should come up with a proper terminology to identify the correct parts of the "build platform".</p>
<p>Basically, every printer consists of a frame with some sort of guide rails<sup>1</sup> moving a carriage. On this carriage a build surface is attached whe... | <p>Well done for bringing this up. I was looking at those numbers too. </p>
<p>Referring to <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/264/what-does-it-take-to-get-out-of-beta-stage/265#265">this post</a>, almost all of the stats are improving (albeit) slowly, except for one, the ApQ </p>
<blockquot... |
<p>We should do some tag maintenance, especially regarding printers to make them easier to read. Use an answer to propose a change, merge or split. Discussions for each change should go into the comments of each change.</p>
<p>Some things are easier than others: </p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Renaming</strong> a tag can be do... | <h1>Laundry list:</h1>
<h2>Open</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/438">e3d</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/436">Creality</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/434">Filled PLA</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Done</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href=... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Have you tried branching or tagging yet? Until then, there's no problem. However, an added benefit of using the branches,tags,trunk convention is that it's exactly that -- a convention. People expect to see that, so they know what to do when they need to fork.</p>
| <p>I have always found it difficult to read comments that are marked by a keyword on each line:</p>
<pre><code>REM blah blah blah
</code></pre>
<p>Easier to read:</p>
<pre><code>:: blah blah blah
</code></pre>
| <p>I think a direct insertion with a progressive (and slow) change of background color would do the trick... I find it especially effective on SO itself.</p>
| <p>I use them for searching for my stack (C#, ASP.NET, WinForms etc). I have them set up in Launchy as shortcuts.</p>
<p>I have posted some thoughts ideas on my <a href="http://cantgrokwontgrok.blogspot.com/2008/09/stackoverflow-crackoverflow-or.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">StackOverflow blog post</a> - feel free t... | <p>This likely goes back to the core concept that there should be one obvious way to do a task. Additional comment styles add unnecessary complications and could decrease readability.</p>
| <p>The main difference between the recommended layout and your proposed layout is that the recommended layout is somewhat self-documenting as to where to commit things, and how it behaves.</p>
<p>For example, in the recommended layout, it's obvious that all new development is committed to trunk, and most branches are ... | <h2>Yes, we should have a <em>three</em> vote close question review queue</h2>
|
<p>Every time I write "Cura" in a question or answer, it gets edited to "Ultimaker Cura", <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10940/11157">most recently</a> resulting in awkward verbose repetition that required additional edits to fix. I don't see any justification for requiring use of official verbose name... | <h1>Laundry list:</h1>
<h2>Open</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/438">e3d</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/436">Creality</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/434">Filled PLA</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Done</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href=... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I completely agree! I just posted <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">my own reminder</a>, focusing more on efforts to get us out of Beta.</p>
<p>I'm sorry you can feel discouraged sometimes, I think a lot of users around the Stack Exchange network can feel t... | <p>A good option would be to have several reference questions, such as "What to look for when comparing printers?" or "How to select a 3D printer?" to which we could redirect these users.</p>
| <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... | <p>You should have a <strong>policy for the format</strong> of the tags (e.g. tags should be singular). Depending on how diverse the tags are, it might be useful not only to auto-complete while you are typing in a tag, but also to <strong>suggest similar tags</strong>, so that it is easy for people to use the tag syste... | <p>I quite like what is done e.g. <a href="http://episteme.arstechnica.com/" rel="noreferrer">here</a>. If you look towards the bottom of the page, there's a piece of text "powered by eve community". If you click that text you get a small chunk of technical information.</p>
<p>To me, this is a nice tradeoff between ... | <p>The question was migrated because the specific question of "<em>How do I tell if my Thermistors are 10k or 100k?</em>" is going to be best answered by users of Electrical Engineering SE. This also provides the SE network with more appropriate traffic based on the question at hand.</p>
<p>However, if the question of... | <p>I think the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/adhesion" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'adhesion'" rel="tag">adhesion</a> tag should be used instead.</p>
|
<p>Half a year passed since <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/430/tag-maintenance-summer-2019">Tag Maintenance Summer 2019</a>. A lot was done, some wasn't, so cleanup and rinse and repeat: Let's do some tag maintenance, especially regarding printers to make them easier to read. Use an answer... | <h1>Laundry list:</h1>
<h2>Open</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/458/8884">Filled PLA</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/459/8884">Repair vs. Maintenance</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Done</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/456/8884">... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I'll try my hand at it and try to get the ball rolling.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBJNE.png" alt="Been here?"></a></p>
| <p>I completely agree! I just posted <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">my own reminder</a>, focusing more on efforts to get us out of Beta.</p>
<p>I'm sorry you can feel discouraged sometimes, I think a lot of users around the Stack Exchange network can feel t... | <p>Make a FAQ page or a tutorial covering some of the basics, that will eliminate quite a lot of questions.</p>
| <p><em>Copied from chat</em></p>
<hr>
<p>I agree about the posting of the entire configuration file or G-code in a question is too big to fit, etc. What is really needed, and I've thought this for a long time, is a SE sanctioned version of PasteBin [functionality]. A persistent scrapbook/scratchpad site internal to S... | <h2>Yes, we should have a <em>three</em> vote close question review queue</h2>
| <p>Well done for bringing this up. I was looking at those numbers too. </p>
<p>Referring to <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/264/what-does-it-take-to-get-out-of-beta-stage/265#265">this post</a>, almost all of the stats are improving (albeit) slowly, except for one, the ApQ </p>
<blockquot... | <p>Version control systems such as CVS can produce such tags.</p>
|
<p>As the question states, should <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/bed" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'bed'" rel="tag">bed</a> and <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/build-plate" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'build-pl... | <p>It should not be about merging of tags, rather we should come up with a proper terminology to identify the correct parts of the "build platform".</p>
<p>Basically, every printer consists of a frame with some sort of guide rails<sup>1</sup> moving a carriage. On this carriage a build surface is attached whe... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>$$\text{3D Printing Stack Exchange} \subset \text{Stack Exchange sites that use MathJax}$$</p>
<p>There are <a href="http://data.stackexchange.com/3dprinting/query/879802/mathjax-inline" rel="nofollow noreferrer">~17 posts</a> that could use an edit. Most of those are prices that have been converted into MathJax. ... | <h1>Laundry list:</h1>
<h2>Open</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/458/8884">Filled PLA</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/459/8884">Repair vs. Maintenance</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Done</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/456/8884">... | <p>Yes they should, only leads to confusion otherwise.</p>
| <p>These are <strong>NOT</strong> the same in a manufacturing, which 3D printing is primarily considered a part of.</p>
<p>Post-Processing typically refers to additional steps that must/can be done to produce the nominally desired part. These steps can include deburr, grind, and other additive/subtractive processing o... | <p>You should have a <strong>policy for the format</strong> of the tags (e.g. tags should be singular). Depending on how diverse the tags are, it might be useful not only to auto-complete while you are typing in a tag, but also to <strong>suggest similar tags</strong>, so that it is easy for people to use the tag syste... | <p>This post, <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">3D Printing SE Beta Status</a>, by tbm0115 highlights the <em>three main</em> sticking points (IMHO clearer than the Area 51 page):</p>
<ul>
<li>Questions per day</li>
<li><strike>Users vs Reputation</strike></li>... | <p>For common problems that get asked a lot, I wouldn't just close these as <em>too broad.</em> A better solution is to create a <strong>canonical post</strong> like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://superuser.com/a/260078/697"><strong>How do I troubleshoot when I have no clue where to start?</strong></a></p>
<p>These at... |
<p>Several questions are related to first layer calibration or issues: I found 43 of them with "first layer" in the title alone, 150 with "first layer" anywhere (no duplicates).</p>
<p>I propose adding a "first-layer" tag to more easily retrieve said questions.</p>
<p>I already applied it to my latest question withou... | <p>I think the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/adhesion" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'adhesion'" rel="tag">adhesion</a> tag should be used instead.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I think the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/adhesion" class="post-tag" title="show questions tagged 'adhesion'" rel="tag">adhesion</a> tag should be used instead.</p>
| <p>As you already noticed, it prevents duplication. People are not consistent in their capitalization. Just look at the tags here and notice that people can't decide whether it's "objective-c", "objc" or "objectivec". Throw in "Objective-C", "Objective-c" and so on, and you'd have a real mess.</p>
<p>Note I'm not s... | <p>I use them for searching for my stack (C#, ASP.NET, WinForms etc). I have them set up in Launchy as shortcuts.</p>
<p>I have posted some thoughts ideas on my <a href="http://cantgrokwontgrok.blogspot.com/2008/09/stackoverflow-crackoverflow-or.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">StackOverflow blog post</a> - feel free t... | <h2>Yes, we should have a <em>three</em> vote close question review queue</h2>
| <p>It should not be about merging of tags, rather we should come up with a proper terminology to identify the correct parts of the "build platform".</p>
<p>Basically, every printer consists of a frame with some sort of guide rails<sup>1</sup> moving a carriage. On this carriage a build surface is attached whe... | <p>I'd go with the simplest model; each question is a heading, with answers in paragraph tags. Clear, logical and semantically sane, I think.</p>
<p>The reason I wouldn't use the definition list tags mentioned is that I don't think, from a pure semantic point of view, that questions and answers fit the mould of pure t... | <p>For common problems that get asked a lot, I wouldn't just close these as <em>too broad.</em> A better solution is to create a <strong>canonical post</strong> like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://superuser.com/a/260078/697"><strong>How do I troubleshoot when I have no clue where to start?</strong></a></p>
<p>These at... |
<p>I've just noticed this Meta post, <a href="https://meta.stackexchange.com/q/364007/280335">Testing three-vote close and reopen on 13 network sites</a> and I wondered whether we should employ it here, and what do other people think?</p>
<p>We are a smallish site, with a smallish number of active users (although it is... | <h2>Yes, we should have a <em>three</em> vote close question review queue</h2>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I would like to nominate myself, <a href="https://stackexchange.com/users/526476/matt-clark">Matt Clark</a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://stackexchange.com/users/526476/matt-clark"><img src="http://stackexchange.com/users/flair/526476.png" width="208" height="58" alt="profile for Matt Clark on Stack Exchange, a network o... | <p>This post, <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">3D Printing SE Beta Status</a>, by tbm0115 highlights the <em>three main</em> sticking points (IMHO clearer than the Area 51 page):</p>
<ul>
<li>Questions per day</li>
<li><strike>Users vs Reputation</strike></li>... | <p>As Steve Krug recommends in <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/0321344758" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Don't Make Me Think</a>, get rid of the question marks that pop in the user's head when they come to your site. If it is confusing it isn't likely to be helpful.</p>
<p>... | <p>On a heavy-traffic site like Stack Overflow, I would only update the "last seen" variable when a user actually <em>does</em> something. Lurking around and reading questions and answers shouldn't count as a user being "seen" by the system. Asking and answering questions, or voting on them should be actions that upd... | <p>Look at this SO blog post: <a href="https://blog.stackoverflow.com/2008/10/solving-the-fastest-gun-in-the-west-problem/">https://blog.stackoverflow.com/2008/10/solving-the-fastest-gun-in-the-west-problem/</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>That said, the one implementable
recommendation that came out of this
discussion is an a... | <p>Any overt form of censure on an existing user could lead to the forum equivalent of an arms race. One school of thought pushed on the SO podcasts is to flag the offending user and remove their posts from normal view, but include it when they (the bad user) are looking at the site. That way, they think the community ... | <p>The short answer is: no. The longer answer is: but you can make it arbitrarily difficult. What I would do:</p>
<ul>
<li>Voting requires solving a captcha (to avoid as much as possible automated voting). To be even more effective I would recommend to have prepared multiple types of simple captchas (like "pick the ph... |
<p>We got <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/314/can-we-get-mathjax-enabled">MathJax enabled</a>. Today I learned that there is even more! We could have <a href="https://worldbuilding.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/9710/can-we-extend-mhchem-support-in-mathjax-to-include-physical-units?cb=1">... | <p>The deed is done. Behold! In all its glory:</p>
<p><span class="math-container">$$\pu{273.15 K}$$</span></p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I use <a href="http://rogercortesi.com/eqn/index.php" rel="noreferrer">Roger's Online Equation Editor</a>.</p>
<p>PNG, colors, transparent background and anti-aliasing are all included.</p>
| <p>Can you just use a fixed-width font, e.g. <code>\texttt{}</code>? If you require something more sophisticated, try the <a href="http://www.ctan.org/tex-archive/macros/latex/contrib/moreverb/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">moreverb</a>, <a href="http://www.ctan.org/tex-archive/macros/latex/contrib/listings/" rel="nofollo... | <p>They're using meta-LaTeX on you: that is a superscript "b" ($ indicates a short math expression and the caret is the superscript).</p>
<p>What they're indicating is that there is a footnote. It is shown in the "Binary Operation Symbols" section.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>$^b$ Not predefined in a format based
on {\t... | <p>Do you have the pzdr font installed? If you're on Debian or Ubuntu, try installing the texlive-fonts-recommended package.</p>
| <p>Using \textrm{-} does not work ?</p>
| <p><a href="http://www.ctan.org/pkg/lgrind" rel="noreferrer">LGrind</a> does this. It's a mature LaTeX package that's been around since adam was a cowboy and has support for many programming languages.</p>
| <p>This post, <a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status">3D Printing SE Beta Status</a>, by tbm0115 highlights the <em>three main</em> sticking points (IMHO clearer than the Area 51 page):</p>
<ul>
<li>Questions per day</li>
<li><strike>Users vs Reputation</strike></li>... |
<p>When I've printed an object I've had to choose between high resolution and quick prints. What techniques or technologies can I use or deploy to speed up my high resolution prints?</p>
| <p>You could experiment with slicing. For example, you might not need high resolution all over the object, but you can speed up some straight parts by using greater layer high there. See a <a href="http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/variable-layer-height">part of Slic3r manual</a> about such thing.</p>
<p>It is also... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>In the video, there is this still from <a href="https://youtu.be/bKsGNrEKx9M?t=32" rel="nofollow noreferrer">0:32</a>:</p>
<p><a href="https://youtu.be/bKsGNrEKx9M?t=32" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jf2F8.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>The labeling is iPro 8000... | <p>A lot of slicers will have a Wipe option. Here are some examples:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>See <a href="https://jinschoi.github.io/simplify3d-docs/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Unofficial Simplify3D Documentation</a>. Go to the section talking about <em>Wipe Nozzle</em>, under the heading <strong>Extruder Tab</strong></p>
<b... | <p>Some things I've tried that have helped:</p>
<p>Lay down a layer of masking tape. Most people who do this use blue painter's tape. The plastic should stick nicely during printing, yet release reasonably easily when you remove the print from the heated bed.</p>
<p>Lay down a later of Kapton tape. The principle is t... | <p>There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed. I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed. </p>
<p>Some cheap things to try would be...</p>
<ol>
<li>Adding a brim to the print.</l... | <p>I agree with @FernandoBaltazar. You have several things going on. If the problem is recent, you may have loose belts, but you may also need to perform acceleration and jerk tuning. Reducing your print speeds may also help.</p>
| <p>What you describe is usually the result of using a too high of a part cooling fan rotational speed. Like ABS, PETG doesn't require much cooling (if needed at all that is). If you do cool too much, layers and perimeters do not bond optimally (you can get string cheese like printed parts on failure). </p>
<p><strong>... | <p>Almost all of the FDM materials outgas even at normal atmospheric pressure, and, in fact, most plastics outgas. Further, FDM and many other printing processes do not guarantee no internal voids - meaning that putting a 3D printed object into a vacuum may result in breakage, cracking, and possible explosion hazards.... |
<p>I would like to buy a 3D printer, but I'm concerned about the health risks that are associated with its operation. Some groups of scientists say it can be <a href="http://www.techworld.com/news/personal-tech/scientists-warn-of-3d-printing-health-effects-as-tech-hits-high-street-3460992/">harmful</a> for humans.</p>
... | <p>Almost all 3D printers have issues that could cause health problems.</p>
<p>FDM/FFF printers heat plastic to a temperature that may cause it to off-gas, and these byproducts may not be healthy.</p>
<p>SLA printers often use epoxies that may off-gas, or may be somewhat toxic prior to being cured.</p>
<p>Powder bas... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I stumbled across this forum/group, <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/english-forum-original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Original Prusa i3 MMU2S & MMU2</a>, amongst all of the other <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prusa printers forums</a> on t... | <h1>It depends</h1>
<p>If it is worth to invest in a print made for you compared to getting a printer depends on the needs you have. Thee can be informed by the type of material you want to print and the requirements that has on you. Let me give you some examples when it is simply worth it to pay:</p>
<ul>
<li>A metal ... | <h2>First; find a model!</h2>
<p>To print something you require a <strong>model</strong> (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a> and <a href="https://www.myminifactory.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MyMiniFactory</a> for e... | <p>Most 3D printers that use non-proprietary filament <em>can</em> print exotic filaments, such as the ones you mention. One thing to be aware of, though, is that some of these filaments <a href="http://makezine.com/2015/09/11/carbon-fiber-filament-ruins-nozzles/" rel="noreferrer">wear down the nozzle</a> far more quic... | <p>It might seem that common 3D printer materials such as PLA and ABS should be capable of being autoclaved—unfortunately. However, although their melting temperatures are higher than autoclave temperature (typically 121ºC), their glass transition temperatures are below that limit so they can warp or undergo creep defo... | <p>Getting this data is not easy. Many companies that make 3D printers are either private companies that do not report results or are larger companies where 3D printers are one of many products they manufacture. Some companies study this information through mining public sources and surveying users for their opinions... | <p>There are a few main safety precautions you should consider.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong><a href="http://sinkhacks.com/building-acetone-vapor-bath-smoothing-3d-printed-parts/" rel="nofollow">Make sure the area is well-ventilated.</a></strong> Acetone is flammable. A buildup of acetone gas could quickly get concentrated, m... |
<p>I know the minimum layer height will effect how detailed of an item you can print and the amount of time it takes to print something, but is it necessary to have an extremely low minimum layer height if you plan to print only larger objects?</p>
| <p>As with any manufacturing process, you'll need to learn to "use the right tool for the job". It depends on the requirements of the part. To answer your question, I would suggest using a larger layer height for the sheer fact of reducing print time on larger objects.</p>
<p>However, it depends on the part and how sm... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I've found that a double-walled base seems to give better results than trying to make the base very thick. Any imperfections in the print, or cracking caused by removing the print can lead to leaks - but if there is layer/infill/layer, the result seems to turn out better for me.</p>
<p>Vase mode can be effective (a... | <p>The root cause was a badly worn nozzle.</p>
<p>The problem described in this question gradually became more and more severe and began affecting PLA and PET prints with thin layers too. Eventually I traced it to the CHT nozzle, by swapping in a 50¢ plain brass nozzle, and found someone with otherwise very similar ext... | <p>A close inspection of what happened when printing the first layer resulted in this:</p>
<ul>
<li>The missing steps on the new print came from the nozzle scraping too close to the print surface, which lead to no first layer</li>
<li>Readjusting the Z-axis end stop, which had moved down, resulted in no more lost step... | <blockquote>
<p>Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>At least judging from the pictures, that <em>does</em> seem like under-extrusion. Some ideas for further investigating the issue.</p>
<p><strong>The problem may be due to the gcode being wrong</strong>. In this ca... | <p>It could be that cheap filament has inconsistent diameter, or your calibration is over extruding, or you have something loose that needs to be tight. It's hard for me to tell precisely from just these images. In your shoes, I would print 20mm x 20mm x 10mm, 100% infill boxes until I got it dialed in so that it is ... | <p>I'm adding this answer to somewhat challenge the findings of my original answer, and the premise of the question: PETG does not need lower print speeds, and can even be printed at higher speeds than PLA under some conditions due to reduced need for cooling. You can see this from some of the "#speedboatrace"... | <p>TL;DR: Don't do that.</p>
<p>Detailed answer: You need motion limit parameters that actually make physical sense, and firmware capable of executing a motion plan according to them. Your jerk and acceleration settings absolutely don't. Marlin's whole implementation of jerk is wacky (note: modern Marlin versions don't... |
<p>Plastic is used in 3D FDM/FFF printing partly because it had a wide temperature range for its glass state - where it can be flowed with some force, but won't flow due only to gravity.</p>
<p>Most metals have a very narrow, or non-existant, glass state. They transition from solid to liquid with almost no flowable-b... | <p>I"m no expert on this, but the article at <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous_metal" rel="noreferrer">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amorphous_metal</a> may be relevant for you.</p>
<p>There are some special alloys, such as gold/silicon and various titanium-based ones, that become "bulk metal glasses" i... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>It might seem that common 3D printer materials such as PLA and ABS should be capable of being autoclaved—unfortunately. However, although their melting temperatures are higher than autoclave temperature (typically 121ºC), their glass transition temperatures are below that limit so they can warp or undergo creep defo... | <ul>
<li><p>Polycarbonate is <a href="https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/why-3d-print-with-polycarbonate-how-to-get-best-results" rel="noreferrer">heat-resistant up to ~120C</a>. Above this temperature it will gradually become flexible and may irreversibly bend. It will not generate any toxic fumes all the way up to ignition... | <p>Picture frame glass (generally float glass) will work well enough, but count on it eventually cracking/getting chipped. It's always very flat (due to the way the production process works).</p>
<p>Taking it up to 100-110C for printing ABS should not be a problem, but you'll want to avoid sharp changes in temperature... | <p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/4488/5740">EvilTeach's</a> answer is correct, ABS is a more reliable plastic for any kind of work which may get above what feels "hot to the touch." </p>
<p>Just to elaborate on the why: the property you're looking for in the thermoplastic (which will determine the co... | <p>You ask some very interesting questions! Firstly, when researching topics such as this, you will have far more luck using 'additive manufacturing' as a search term rather than '3D printing'. In the professional industrial environment, '3D printing' is not a term that is really used to describe the manufacturing you ... | <p>PLA is just about the only common material that prints <em>well</em> on the stock Ender 3. The extruder lacks proper grip and/or torque at the hob for printing PETG well, and printing TPU with a bowden tube is very slow and error-prone. All of these should work if you're willing to go very slow (20-30 mm/s top) thou... | <p>All filament used in 3D printing is thermoplastic filament, so plastic-filament and thermoplastic-filament are redundant.</p>
|
<p>What are the main differences when using ABS over PLA and vice versa?</p>
| <p>Paraphrasing <a href="http://www.protoparadigm.com/news-updates/the-difference-between-abs-and-pla-for-3d-printing/">this</a> site. Feel free to add suggestions in the form of comments and I will try to incorporate them.</p>
<p>Summary</p>
<ul>
<li>ABS: Stronger, machinable, more flexible, and more temperature
res... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>In my experience, polyurethane sticks to PLA like super glue, not good. But silicone and alginate doesn't stick at all.</p>
<p>What I do is print the model of the mold with PLA or ABS, no matter. Then, cast a mold of the PLA model of the mold with alginate, then you have the negative of your mold.</p>
<p>Now with th... | <p>In general, metal extruder without PTFE feeding is useful when printing with materials that require high temperature to melt: 300<sup>o</sup>C and above.
<a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate" rel="noreferrer">Polycarbonate</a> with recommended printing temperature at up to 310<sup>o</sup>C is a good exampl... | <p>If you haven't been to their site before, you should check out the forums on 3DHubs. There's a lot of how-to's. A quick Google search yields <a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/accelerated-nozzle-wear" rel="noreferrer">this</a> link to a similar question.</p>
<p>The key thing to note is that in all technica... | <p>Here is the mental framework that I use to reason about PETG: In a nutshell you want to <strong>avoid nozzle contact</strong>.</p>
<p>Unlike most other plastics, PETG sticks to hot brass really well and every time the nozzle moves through material it will pick up some of it. Material around the the nozzle then stic... | <p>The second placement is a better choice from an overall standpoint. In the vertical placement, adhesion is going to be more critical, although Prusa printers have good bonding for PLA and ABS, from my direct experience.</p>
<p>The other aspect of more importance is that the holes are going to be distorted in the ver... | <p>The paper <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication/326697946_Chemical_Compatibility_of_Fused_Filament_Fabrication-based_3-D_Printed_Components_with_Solutions_Commonly_Used_in_Semiconductor_Wet_Processing" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Chemical Compatibility of Fused Filament Fabrication-based 3-D Printed Compon... | <blockquote>
<p>One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Short answer: "Yes, for some it does".</p>
<hr>
<p>The results from your image are typically seen when the initial layer height for PETG is too small. PETG likes an additional gap o... |
<p>My MakerBot printer supports only two filaments at the same time.</p>
<p>What are techniques to print objects with more than two colors for one object?</p>
| <p>The most obvious solution is to pause the print and swap filament for another color.</p>
<p>Another option is to <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdlqGR5n9Zk">splice pieces of filament</a> together, though this does not allow very precise control of when the switch happens. There is also a device that can a... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>You can also bring the model and a big box into slic3r, align and orient them (enclose the model in the box), and do a subtract modifier, leaving a hollow where the two intersected. You probably want to do this twice, for a top mould and a botom mould. I've done this, but I don't see any instructions online for it. ... | <blockquote>
<p>Why is this so rare?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Such kind of printers usually harder to assembles, calibrate, and maintain because 3 axes machine is a bit more complex than 2 axes. For instance, it's can be tricky to move an entire extruder among all 3 axis and some of such printer's designs may require even ... | <p>There is absolutely no reason to use different nozzles, <em>not even if filaments do require different temperatures</em>.</p>
<p>The only exception is when printing abrasive filaments (such as glow-in-the-dark and carbon-fiber) in which case you should use an abrasion-resistant, stainless steel nozzle. This nozzle ... | <p>My problem was 2 things. The <strong>heatbreak</strong>, which was switched out for the MK2 version(Explantation below). And the <strong>Teflon Tube</strong> that runs down the heatsink.</p>
<h2>Heatbreak</h2>
<p>Change the heat-break to a generic E3D one. You can order the heatbreak for the <strong>MK2</strong> f... | <p>As you suggest yourself, ordering test prints of some model is one way to do it. </p>
<p><a href="https://www.3dhubs.com">3D Hubs</a> and <a href="https://www.makexyz.com/">MakeXYZ</a> allows you to get your model printed by hobbyists and small businesses for a fair price. Both sites also allow you to order prints ... | <p>Try printing with the heated printbed off. Heat makes the pla stick more to buildtak</p>
| <p>After two weeks of working on different settings in different slicers, I finally have a profile which has improved the quality of my printings. It still has some overhangs, which I'm sure will improve by increasing the cooling flow like 0scar already mentioned.</p>
<p>Here is the profile bundle (for Prusa Slicer): <... |
<p>I'd like to print modifications for my bird feeder, both to patch over the hail damage from last summer and to try to deter the neighborhood squirrels. I have an FDM printer (and experience with nylon, ABS, and PLA, though don't restrict answers to those if there's something else that's better), what kind of filame... | <p>PET(G) is a strong contender. It is very strong and water-resistant, and as such is often used to make pop bottles.</p>
<p>PLA has a reputation for being "biodegradable" and therefore it is often discouraged to use PLA outside and/or in contact with water. However, PLA only biodegrades under very specific condition... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I use kapton tape to fixate the glass plates to the heated beds on two of my printers, one a Prusa i3 clone, the other a CoreXY. The tape is able to withstand higher temperatures, and is very thin, so it doesn't have the drawbacks of limiting the print area or high chance the nozzle hitting the clips.</p>
<p><a href... | <p>There are many things you'll need to check and/or confirm to ensure that you will have a good bond to the bed. The first is to confirm that you are using a genuine Prusa printer as it appears in the photo. Having built one recently makes it easier for me to guess that is the case.</p>
<p>Have you performed the bed ... | <h1>That's a hell of a print!</h1>
<p>You are printing a model that has a highly complex structure there, with about 650ish holes, assuming there is space for about 2 perimeters between each hole.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gcrSm.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gcrSm.pn... | <p>Yes Super Glue is best choice.
I personally use it in many PLA projects.
I even apply Super Glue layer to ABS prints to avoid layer separation.</p>
<p>It works well with both ABS and PLA, but exercise some caution whilst using Super Glue because it produces very bad tear gas. Use it in a well ventilated area.</p>
| <p>Almost all 3D printers have issues that could cause health problems.</p>
<p>FDM/FFF printers heat plastic to a temperature that may cause it to off-gas, and these byproducts may not be healthy.</p>
<p>SLA printers often use epoxies that may off-gas, or may be somewhat toxic prior to being cured.</p>
<p>Powder bas... | <h1><strong>Wear Gloves.</strong></h1>
<h3>Returning is impossible</h3>
<p>Resin does not just <em>harden</em>, <a href="https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin">it <strong>polymerizes</strong> into shape from monomers in a chemical reaction.</a> That means to break it d... | <p>You could use a piece of glass, that's what most people using 3D printers have as a build surface. An easy source of glass for pen use would be a picture frame but the edges are likely sharp so be careful. Acrylic would also work and is easily obtained in small pieces from places like Lowes/Home Depot, I used Acry... |
<p>The surfaces of my printed parts using PLA plastic look rough and uneven.</p>
<p>Would changing filament to a better one make any difference?</p>
<p>If not, what kind of methods can I use to achieve a smoother finish for my for 3D-printed objects?</p>
| <p>Your two easiest options are dipping your print in acetone or giving it an acetone vapor bath. Note this process generally only works with <strong>ABS</strong> not <strong>PLA</strong>, with the exception of some brands. There are <a href="http://fabsterdam.com/3dprinting/smoothing-pla/" rel="noreferrer">many</a> <a... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p><strong>Don't use grease</strong>, it is better to use a <strong>light oil</strong> to lubricate the rods. A light oil will help flush out any dust and filament debris, grease will trap it.</p>
<p>I've used both light machine oil (like used for sewing machines) and PTFE based spray (Teflon). Grease is thick and wi... | <p>The first indication for print speed and temperature should be taken from the box the filament comes in. Generally it specifies temperature ranges for the hotend and the heated bed. Sometime, mostly online, more parameters can be found amongst which is the printing speed. </p>
<p>Do note that temperature and printi... | <p>One aspect of having this level of control with 3d printing of a model is the removal of the need for supports and the attendant post-processing. In the case of the model shown in the video, some effects are created by printing the continents in a conformal manner that would otherwise be impossible with conventional... | <p>I do not know the Qidi slicer, but if you look closely, you will see this line is thinner than the normal support infill lines. You could try to visualize the G-code in a viewer, usually this can be done in the slicer itself, but <a href="http://gcode.ws/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">online viewers</a> are available. ... | <p>I've had great success printing with HIPS (high-impact polystyrene) as a support for both PLA and ABS. Most sites recommend it for use with ABS because the materials melt at similar temperatures and work best with heated beds, but I've had good luck using it as a support material with PLA on a bed at 60°C. It doesn'... | <p>Cool environmental conditions are the single biggest contributor to ABS delamination. Delamination or edge/corner cracking is caused by warping stresses when the first layer adhesion is stronger than the interlayer bonding. Or it happens when the heated build plate allows a strong non-warping foundation to be built ... | <p>Delta printers are considered to be able to be accurate printers cause of the limited weight in the head (using Bowden extruder setup). The positioning can be very accurate (limited weight, limited overshooting) and because of the limited amount of weight, the print speed can be increased.</p>
<p>An <a href="http:/... |
<p>With an ABS or PLA extrusion 3D printer, are there any potentially negative quality differences that could occur if I try to print at a higher resolution?</p>
<p>I am not concerned about print time as the equipment is not under high demand. I am, however, worried the device may be more prone to fracture, likely to... | <p>The biggest effect I've see on resolution is due to plastic stress due to thermal gradients.</p>
<p>The higher resolution prints build up more layers of material, and each layer has a cumulative effect on thermal stress. The upper layers pulling up more as they cool, and the lower layers curling up more strongly a... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Direct Drive v.s. Bowden has no relation to the maximum print temperature. What determines the maximum print temperature is the design of the hotend itself. There are "all-metal" designs, where the PTFE tube (Bowden or not) stops in the cold zone and the heatbreak and all other components that get hot are ... | <p>Much like your car, the number of miles, or the number of prints that you can get out of it is entirely up to how well <strong>you</strong> can maintain it.</p>
<p>A 3D Printer is a machine, and a machine needs general maintenance; if you see something starting to break - or get worn out - or anything abnormal, fix... | <p>After a lot of experimenting and trying several different things I finally discovered the <strong>'vase mode'</strong>. In this mode the 3D printer makes a hollow object with a single-layer outer shell.</p>
<p>The corresponding setting is called <strong>'spiralize outer contour'</strong> in Cura 4.6.1. In this mode ... | <p>The <strong>first problem</strong> is solved by removing the tick mark at <code>Origin at center</code>. Most printers have their origin at a corner (not Delta's, their origin is in the top center).</p>
<p>The <strong>second problem</strong> is a little more difficult to solve. Please note that a kit should be loa... | <p>Default settings for first layer height in Slic3r Prusa Edition print profiles regardless layer height is 0.2 mm.</p>
<p>If you need to improve bed adhesion then try tips from this video <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShFaJ027pFs" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Prints not sticking anymore? Watch this! 3DP10... | <p>Heating the bed helps me, even with PLA. I print with a 60 °C bed. The bed is 3/8" 6061 alloy aluminum, sanded with 600 grit sandpaper, coated with Elmer's purple glue stick, and dried.</p>
<p>The brim will help. You might make the brim thicker than one layer (like 2-3 layers).</p>
<p>If you look at the bo... | <p>Your trouble lies within the presliced G-code: the temperatures are rather low for PLA and upping both by 10 degrees would be advisable:</p>
<ul>
<li>200 °C for the Hotend</li>
<li>60 °C for the Bed</li>
</ul>
<p>Atop that, printing a raft for PLA is usually not advisable.</p>
<p>Get yourself a slicer (the most c... |
<p>I would like to print parts (e.g. jewellery) for use which I don't want to look or feel like a plastic, but metal-like, so briefly people won't see much difference.</p>
<p>Are there any specific type of home-printers that can achieve that? Or it's rather kind of filament that you should use?</p>
| <p>If you'd like to print on RepRap like <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_deposition_modeling" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FDM printers</a>, you cannot print from metal, but you can use some filament that tries to look like metal. I have good experience with <a href="http://colorfabb.com/bronzefill" rel="nofo... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p><strong>What bed material cools faster?</strong></p>
<p>I found an <a href="http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html">extensive list</a> which relates various materials to their <em>thermal conductivity</em>, k [W/mK]; the lower thermal conductivity, the better the material insulates, and t... | <p>How to catch <em>and</em> fix these on the fly? That would be difficult..</p>
<p>But this is an issue you really should not have.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/84/47">Could it be an issue with filament storage?</a></p>
<p>Or is it coming from the manufacturer with these bulges? If so, I w... | <p>I have no experience with your printer model nor with protopasta conductive PLA but since your problem is "too much adhesion" I would simply suggest to <strong>follow in reverse all the usual advices on how to make the first layer adhere better</strong> (a far more common problem). The list of suggestion could be:<... | <p>Dimensional accuracy is not as important as dimensional uniformity. I can print with undersized (or oversized) filament, adjusting the flow appropriately, provided the filament has a consistent diameter. When creating filament in-house, without expensive equipment, it is difficult to maintain the same diameter throu... | <p>There are a few options.</p>
<ol>
<li>Machines are available which grind the used plastic into fine pieces, melt it down, and extrude it as filament to be reused. <a href="http://www.filabot.com/">Filabot</a> is perhaps the most well known.</li>
<li>Depending on where you live the local recycling programs may accep... | <p>I don't believe that slicing engines create any sort of solid model that would be useful for CAD simulation. When a slicing engine slices a 3D model, it's goal is to spit out the preferred machine paths in G-Code (of some kind). However, I've read a few articles, done some tests, and heard through the grape vine tha... | <p>Assuming your filament dimension settings are correct and your extruder is correctly calibrated...</p>
<p><strong>Your extruder temperature may be too low.</strong> While 184C can be hot enough, it is very near the bottom of the range for PLA and it appears your filament isn't melting quickly enough to keep up wit... |
<p>I am aware of several "clear" filaments for a ABS or PLA printer. They, however, have a cloudy or frosted glass appearance. I do not believe this is possible to eliminate but I believe it can be reduced.</p>
<p>Are there effective ways to make a print have a more transparent appearance?</p>
| <p>Use Taulman t-glase and after a light sanding with really fine paper (optional really, but go for it if you can), spray it with polyurethane varnish or something similar. Check out the article <a href="http://3dprint.com/29292/taulman-hacks-clear-t-glase-3d-printing-material/">here</a>.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I am still somewhat of a noob, but I have heard that your problem may be because the extruder is not getting the filament out fast enough. You are trying to extrude filament before it is sufficiently fluid. Try increasing your hotend temperature by 5 degrees.</p>
| <p>I have made some learning on mechanical setup and discovered some issues on my printer, there are few:</p>
<ol>
<li>Bed warped, even with glass (thin thickness), making BAL confused with Z-movement over the bed.</li>
<li>Overextrusion making layer oversized in terms of thickness.</li>
<li>Some of missing mechanical... | <p>PLA is a forgiving filament, you can even print such filament without a heated bed. Although there are differences in quality between brands, PLA shouldn't need a raft to be printed. Hatchbox filament is not considered as a low quality type of filament; it is economical and has been around since 2013. A raft is a st... | <p>You need <strong>WAY</strong> more infill or make it solid. Normal props like this are 100% solid for a reason.</p>
<p>To add to that, in my experience with 3D printing the the infill percent is only part of the story for part strength. In many cases adding perimeter loops and not infill is a better solution for par... | <blockquote>
<p>I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The (equidistant) lines at distance from the print object is called the "skirt", the skirt is an option found under the "Build Plate Adhesion" options in your slicer. The prima... | <p>It is definitively possible to do what you want, but your questions are samewhat problematic:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>"hard enough" is a mysterious quantity. What is the intended application? The load of ... | <p>If it's on each corner, and not the layer change corner, it's a combination of overshoot and the short "pause" of the printer when it changes direction. </p>
<p>You can minimize it, but it won't go away 100% (due to overshoot from direction changes), usually models with a slight rounded corners work great. If yo... |
<p>My printed parts consist rafts, supports and other extraneous filament when printing with ABS or PLA.</p>
<p>What are efficient general techniques of removing them?</p>
| <p>The best way to get rid of them is to change the design of the printed object to make them unnecessary.</p>
<p>Instead of printing the one part with support material, the piece can be split into two or more parts which can be printed without support material and assembled after the printing.</p>
<hr>
<p>Given tha... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Turns out it had to do with the nature of the small holes that I was printing. I had to slow the speed of the initial layer down from 25mm/s to 15mm/s and also set Cura to 'optimize wall printing order' so that it didn't jump back and forth between holes constantly. </p>
<p>I also sped up the travel speed to 50mm/s... | <p>The symptoms you describe hint to heat creep. Heat creep is the gradual increase in temperature of the cold end assembly (cooling fins and heat break). This gradual temperature increase leads to too high filament temperatures and as such premature filament softening. In combination with (large) retraction settings, ... | <p>When printing at small layer heights (high resolution), you probably need to do some test prints first to see if your normal settings work for the lower layer height. You are most probably experiencing an increased pressure build-up in the nozzle due to the nozzle being closer to the bed. A test that might be useful... | <p>The solution was a combination of several items. The primary one was slowing down the top layer of the print significantly. I was using 3200 mm/min for the print and used the option 'solid fill underspeed' to slow down the top layers to 40%. I increased the top layers to 7. I also increased the infill, to ensure... | <p><em>Waves in printed surfaces with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FFF</a> are observed at either the bottom layer (common) or the top layer (less common).</em></p>
<h2>Waves in bottom layer</h2>
<p>Rippling/wave generation/wrinkling is a common problem fo... | <p>Warping is caused by the plastic shrinking as it cools and inadequate bed adhesion is usually the what lets it warp. Either cleaning your print surface very thoroughly with rubbing alcohol or using something like a glue stick on your print bed will mitigate that warping enough that you won't suffer problems with you... | <p>While I tried a lot of things to solve this, including tuning temperature, fan, speed, etc., ultimately the single biggest factor that causes or prevents it is the state of Cura's <em>Outer Before Inner Walls</em> (<code>outer_inset_first</code>) option. With outer walls first, I don't have the problem at all. With ... |
<p>I would like to understand the differences between rafts, skirts and brims. They appear in the software which I'm using to edit my 3D objects.</p>
<p>Can anybody elaborate what are these and what are the main differences between them?</p>
| <p>All three of these features are used to improve the quality and success rate of prints, especially those failing due to issues on the first few layers, or due to the small size of the first layer.</p>
<h1>Raft</h1>
<p>A raft is a horizontal feature made as the first few layers of a print, and is used to help with be... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>In Ultimaker Cura you can select only one of the the build plate adhesion options skirt, brim or raft. You cannot select multiple options. </p>
<p>There is no option available in Ultimaker Cura to increase the outline count of the raft bed adhesion structure. Basically the raft exists of a line support structure as... | <p>3D files differ greatly in size and what they contain:</p>
<h1>STL</h1>
<p>STL Stereolithography files were invented by 3D Systems to store surfaces. Originally it used ASCII text to store information by naming triplets of vertex positions for each triangle (facet). Since that got too large, newer STL are Binary, wh... | <p>In slic3r preview, salmon (pink) represents infill, yellow represents perimeters, and green represents support material, including skirt and brim.</p>
| <blockquote>
<p>I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>The (equidistant) lines at distance from the print object is called the "skirt", the skirt is an option found under the "Build Plate Adhesion" options in your slicer. The prima... | <p>The answer to your question is yes, there are tutorials to help you create better models. Unfortunately, the back-story to the answer is beyond the scope of StackExchange.</p>
<p>Don't limit yourself to Blender, especially if you are attempting to create non-organic (engineering-type) models. Blender is great for c... | <p>A point cloud is often derived by sampling. Each point represents an observation. Sometimes, a point cloud is turned into a surface by fitting triangles to the points in the form of an STL file.</p>
<p>A raster is a 2D grid of pixels. It divides the area of an image into constant-sized little squares. Each of t... | <p>The shading command is your friend:</p>
<p>shading flat - gives you the surface without mesh lines</p>
<p>shading interp - interpolates colours between patches to give a smooth finish </p>
<p>shading faceted - gives you the surface with black mesh lines (similar to flat) </p>
|
<p>I've acquired all the parts to build a Reprap Prusa i3 rework, the only missing part is the frame. </p>
<p>I'm in doubt between a MDF cut (cheaper) or acrylic (more expensive), of course a cheaper one is my preferred option until I see any disadvantage on making it of wood. </p>
<p>I thought about variables like h... | <p>Generally speaking, MDF will weather OK. In areas of high humidity you might experience warpage, but you can mitigate that by sealing the surface with paint or varnish. However you will probably find that of the two materials, acrylic will be more stable over a few years.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I'm not sure I am reading your post correctly, but if you are doing a batch of small prints, I would recommend to <strong>space them enough so as each of them has its own mini-raft, rather than all of them sharing the same large one</strong>.</p>
<p>If you are using cura, you can tweak how much the raft goes past t... | <p>I had the same problem with ABS, but printing different test objects I found out that the distance between the wavy structures depends on the cross sectional area of the object. Printing the testcube in 70.1% (1/sqrt(2) times of the original size) takes half the time per layer and the distance between two grooves do... | <p>My3dmatter.com performed a <a href="http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern//influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">series of tests</a> with PLA, using "a universal testing machine". They conclude:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Layer height influences the strength of a printed... | <p>Mick's suggestion is a good one. PLA may shed some color in acetone, but ABS will dissolve completely in a suitable amount of time. If you have dark filament, you can test by flexing the filament until it breaks. ABS will sometimes/often/usually fatigue with a white break line, while PLA does not exhibit this tenden... | <p>PLA absorbs moisture, so keeping the filament dry is a key factor. Aside from that, PLA is naturally more brittle than other plastics like ABS and Nylon Sorry, tried to find a graph to prove it, but couldn't find one.</p>
<p>There's a good <a href="https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/Rdx2ZnJeQzs">Googl... | <p>Yes, this is very broad. That said...</p>
<p>For high detail you want SLA. i.e. jewelry. If you just want a prototype of a mold, you can do a standard FDM style printer (95% of printers are FDM, and that number is a guess)</p>
<p>Really, you should be asking what material you need for your mold, but you can open a... | <p>I must admit, I've never printed a key...but I think I can help anyway:</p>
<p><strong>Print method:</strong>
Consider printing on side, solid concentric infill. Or, if you can't manipulate your infill pattern, just increase the perimeter so you get the same effect, several continuous perimeter layers around the o... |
<p>There is a 3D desktop printer <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_project">RepRap</a> which can print most of its own components.</p>
<p>Assuming each printed printer will print the next one and so on. Are there any limitation how many times this can be achieved?</p>
<p>For example somebody printed for m... | <p>The files used to print these objects are digital, and do not degrade in any way after each printing. There are no side effects or degradation that occurs over time due simply to printing them multiple times.</p>
<p>This is the RepRap philosophy, and the machines are actually designed with enough tolerance for prin... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>This question is unfortunately, not a good fit for this site, as it stands, for as you say it is opinion based. However, it is great to see that you are getting kids into a relatively new technology (yes, I know it has been around for years, but it is still seen as new to <em>big media</em> and the general public). ... | <p>Yes, this is very broad. That said...</p>
<p>For high detail you want SLA. i.e. jewelry. If you just want a prototype of a mold, you can do a standard FDM style printer (95% of printers are FDM, and that number is a guess)</p>
<p>Really, you should be asking what material you need for your mold, but you can open a... | <h1>Short answer</h1>
<p>Yes</p>
<h1>Long answer</h1>
<h2>Heater bocks</h2>
<p>A heater block is destroyed if one of the following happens</p>
<ul>
<li>Threads stripped</li>
<li>Bent or otherwise deformed</li>
<li>stripped grub screw</li>
</ul>
<p>All of these can happen by handling the block with too much force when s... | <p>As you suggest yourself, ordering test prints of some model is one way to do it. </p>
<p><a href="https://www.3dhubs.com">3D Hubs</a> and <a href="https://www.makexyz.com/">MakeXYZ</a> allows you to get your model printed by hobbyists and small businesses for a fair price. Both sites also allow you to order prints ... | <p>TL;DR: Don't do that.</p>
<p>Detailed answer: You need motion limit parameters that actually make physical sense, and firmware capable of executing a motion plan according to them. Your jerk and acceleration settings absolutely don't. Marlin's whole implementation of jerk is wacky (note: modern Marlin versions don't... | <p>"Real overhang limits" are hard to define. If you want <em>accurate extrusion</em>, such that precision parts fit together correctly or angled geometric surfaces that are supposed to be flat come out flat, each extrusion line must have at least some minimal portion of itself (probably including its center ... | <p>For this specific application, it may be better to think in terms of a <strong>Lot Number</strong> for each batch instead of individual serial numbers. This will still let you trace back an item for where it was originally allocated, and greatly simplify your processing.</p>
<p>Under this plan, you create the STL fi... |
<p>On a number of occasions I've broken small plastic parts that are nearly impossible to replace but could easily be 3-D printed. The latest such mishap is the volume knob on the factory-installed radio on my car. </p>
<p>I have little experience in 3D printing, and would like to be able to replace these parts with... | <p>The easiest way is as you currently do: model the pieces by hand, using (digital) calipers to measure them.</p>
<p>Scanning technology isn't very good, and the models are not of printable quality. Usually, fixing a scan is more work than modeling an item from scratch.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>All printers are designed with an idea of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WYSIWYG" rel="nofollow">WYSIWYG</a> for sure. Depending on:</p>
<ul>
<li>printer - type/quality/settings/configuration/assembly precission</li>
<li>filament - type/quality/shrinkage</li>
<li>user skills - manual/using app proficiency</... | <p>The dividing line of "tangentially off topic" is typically when the <em>actual</em> subject of the question being asked is only <strong><em>coincidentally</em></strong> adjacent to 3D printing. </p>
<p>Here is a <em>clear</em> example illustrating the "tangential issue:"</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I printed a crane mec... | <p>Most commercial blow-molded fuel tanks for model airplane fuel (methanol or ethanol, nitromethane or nitroethane, and some combination of castor, mineral, or synthetic lubricating oil) are made from HDPE. This material isn't commonly seen as filament, in my limited experience, but it ought to be possible to arrive ... | <p>Anzalone and friends published <a href="https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/6678531/" rel="noreferrer">A Low-Cost Open-Source Metal 3-D Printer</a> in <em>IEEE Access</em>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>This paper reports on the development of a open-source metal 3-D printer. The metal 3-D printer is controlled with an op... | <p>It <em>can</em> be done cheaply, as two different users have proven, see </p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,538786" rel="nofollow noreferrer">A practical 10 Cents Ceramic tube hotend</a>, and;</li>
<li><a href="https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?70,172916" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hotend wit... | <p>Wash-away filament used for support in PLA printing is typically PVA, which is completely water soluble and may serve your purpose. It is easily 3D printed as the primary filament and attaches well to the build plate.</p>
<p>Many 3D printer filament suppliers will carry this type of support material. It is importan... | <p><strong>Depends on your definition of "available" and your definition of "suitable for general use."</strong> </p>
<p>The cheapest 3D printers are mostly Kickstarter promises that take a year or more to ship, if they ever do. For example, the Peachy 3D printer Kickstarter just imploded and failed. There have been m... |
<p>I have a few kg of 3 mm filament when I only have use for 1.75 mm.</p>
<p>How can I make 1.75 mm from 3 mm filament?</p>
| <p>The best option is to find somebody in need of 3 mm filament and trade them for it (either in exchange for 1.75 mm filament or in exchange for legal tender with which to buy said filament).</p>
<p>The next best option would be to cut it into small pieces, and feed those into a filament extrusion system su... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I fear I'm going to deny your question. The infil percentage and the infil pattern are two orthogonal properties, both of which contribute to the strength, density, mass, and print time of an object. Since there's no way for an algo to "know" what your desired outcome is, this can't be done.</p>
<p>Note - I used... | <p>Very interesting idea!
There may be a way to do this semi-automatically, but I believe it's not yet a part of any slicer.</p>
<p>My suggestion would be:</p>
<ul>
<li>Export file as .stl (Fusion 360)</li>
<li>Use a DLP slicer to create images of the layers (CHITUBox)</li>
<li>Calculate the area of each of the image... | <p>This answer explains that you can have different infill within the same part. Firstly the implementation in <strong>Ultimaker Cura</strong> is described, secondly how you can do this in <strong>Slic3r</strong>.</p>
<hr />
<h2>Ultimaker Cura</h2>
<p>I've used a feature in <strong>Ultimaker Cura</strong> that can be u... | <p>If I understand your question correctly, it sounds like you're looking somewhere within the <a href="http://reprap.org/" rel="noreferrer">RepRap</a> realm. The RepRap community is mostly responsible for the boom in consumer 3D printing in the past 10 years, and that's most likely because it's <strong>open source</st... | <p>How to catch <em>and</em> fix these on the fly? That would be difficult..</p>
<p>But this is an issue you really should not have.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/84/47">Could it be an issue with filament storage?</a></p>
<p>Or is it coming from the manufacturer with these bulges? If so, I w... | <p>Let's look at various methods:</p>
<h2>Multiple Hotends</h2>
<p>The oldest version and one of the best to print materials at vastly different print temperatures (like printing a cheaper PLA infill into a Polycarbonate shell - the print temperature difference is 60-100 °C) is to have 2 or more hotends. This way als... | <p>The world of 3D Printers usually uses the metric system, especially in nozzle sizes. 0.2 inches are therefore better referred to as 5 mm, which is a considerable amount: that's 11 to 13 perimeters from a 0.4 mm nozzle, depending on extrusion width (0.46 and 0.4 mm respectively). Furthermore, the bore of the item isn... |
<p>I am printing a print using PLA on a Prusa i3 printer and an MK8 extruder, at 210 degrees celsius, 60 mm/sec, sliced with slic3r. The print consists of a base, with 4 tower-like projections that then join with a near-vertical overhang slope that isn't posing a problem for my printer.</p>
<p>However, even before the... | <p>Stringing is often a result of too-high a temperature, or insufficient retraction. When there is highly liquid filament in the nozzle tip, it can adhere to the remainder of the print while dripping as the nozzle moves, leading to a thin string of the filament forming. As further travel moves are performed in each la... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>So it turns out there are elements from each of the previous answers that make sense here, but its not a clear picture. I've spent a whole lot of time trying to make sense of this. I also upgraded my firmware to <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Sailfish.</a> </p>
<p>For ... | <p>Are you using the stock firmware of your printer? Sounds like to me that you have 16 tooth pulleys and your firmware is set to 20 tooth i.e. 80 steps per mm</p>
<p>The calculation behind the steps per mm is <span class="math-container">$\frac{\text{Steps per Revolution} \times Microsteps}{Teeth \times Pitch}$</span... | <p>No, that's not (entirely) true. There might be some loss of quality if you print multiple objects at once, because when the printhead "hops" from one object to another it might leave a mark or ooze out some material. Also, a large number of retractions in a short period of time might lead to inconsistent extrusion.<... | <p>Cura does correctly account for line extrusion widths wheen positioning the lines, and attempting to fix this with negative <code>xy_offset</code> was a mistake that led to lots of problems: in some cases, it completely eliminated tiny components of the model and left gaps in layers. At some point after asking this ... | <p>TL;DR: Don't do that.</p>
<p>Detailed answer: You need motion limit parameters that actually make physical sense, and firmware capable of executing a motion plan according to them. Your jerk and acceleration settings absolutely don't. Marlin's whole implementation of jerk is wacky (note: modern Marlin versions don't... | <p>Embarassingly, I discovered that the cable to the heatbed was sometimes caught between the on/off switch and the adjacent power plug. So, for high Y values the cable was very tight and the bed could not be moved. Presumably the "knocking" came from the Y-axis motor. The problem was fixed by attaching this ... | <p>I'm not familiar with the Anet A6 specifically, but as many other things in a 3D printer, the minimum layer height is co-determined by a number of factors. For the Z-axis the factors I am aware of are:</p>
<ul>
<li>The number of steps in the stepper motor</li>
<li>The geometry of the lead screw</li>
<li>The tolera... |
<p>I want to print a model of an animal cell.</p>
<p>What I have so far: I managed to use different colors to print out the different parts of the cell.<br>
My question is: what is the best way to connect plastic 3d printed parts?<br>
Glue? Melted plastic? I need it to have a strong connection and not very visible whe... | <p>For ABS print, I recommend <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone" rel="nofollow">acetone</a>. It is not a glue, but it will dissolve the plastic a bit and if you apply it to both connecting parts and push them together, they will stay connected after the acetone dries. However, it does not dry very fast and... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed. I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed. </p>
<p>Some cheap things to try would be...</p>
<ol>
<li>Adding a brim to the print.</l... | <p>It should not be about merging of tags, rather we should come up with a proper terminology to identify the correct parts of the "build platform".</p>
<p>Basically, every printer consists of a frame with some sort of guide rails<sup>1</sup> moving a carriage. On this carriage a build surface is attached whe... | <p>Food safety is a property of both the process and the material. You can't stick food-safe material in a printer that has previously been used to print something food-dangerous and expect the result to be food safe.</p>
<p>The only way to know if a given material is food-safe is to ask your supplier, but a lot depen... | <p>For an illustration of how to employ the Kapton tape, that is mentioned in the answers from Harvey Lim and Howler, watch <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EIFIAWiPdU&t=1290" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How to build a RepRap Prusa i3 (Assembly 7)</a> at 21:30:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEr... | <p>You got a few things happening. First that temp seems low. I am printing PLA at 215.. but there are a lot of factors. Start with a simple calibration thin wall test. Which is just a wall, no body. </p>
<p>From there your bed could be closer. Maybe. I don't think that's really the issue. Slower speed and heat will m... | <p>Update: I found a nice article about chocolate printing: <a href="https://all3dp.com/2/chocolate-3d-printer-all-you-need-to-know/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://all3dp.com/2/chocolate-3d-printer-all-you-need-to-know/</a></p>
<hr>
<p>You are searching for chocolate extruder. I did not find one, which would fulf... | <p>In principle, ABS is safe for contact with (cold or room-temperature) food. The two main concerns specific to 3D printing are, assuming you start with a filament that is not itself contaminated:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Pores and holes in the printed part which may harbor bacteria</p></li>
<li><p>Impurities introduced into ... |
<p>Is it possible to re-use ABS or PLA filament material from printed parts?</p>
<p>If so, what is the techniques to reform it?</p>
| <p>There are a few options.</p>
<ol>
<li>Machines are available which grind the used plastic into fine pieces, melt it down, and extrude it as filament to be reused. <a href="http://www.filabot.com/">Filabot</a> is perhaps the most well known.</li>
<li>Depending on where you live the local recycling programs may accep... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>There are a lot of factors to 3D printing parts that work and fit together. </p>
<p>A lot of it will be discovered by trial and error, but let's try to put you on the right path. </p>
<p>First your material is what matters the most. Specifically their coefficient of thermal expansion, i.e. how much can the plastic... | <p>For ABS it will warp unless you build a heat chamber. </p>
<p>That said the tricks to reduce warping come down to: </p>
<ol>
<li>Material, i.e. PLA is less likely to warp; </li>
<li>Use a fan, it helps so much; </li>
<li>Make sure you have temps calibrated well - Too hot is more warp; </li>
<li>Use a raft. The Mak... | <p>After some trial and error I found that the issue was stringing due to excess moisture in the filament from being stored outside of a sealed low-humidity container for long periods.</p>
<p>After placing it in a heated dehydrator for 2 days, my next print had low stringing and did not bond interlaced parts together s... | <p>You need to figure out what is not working</p>
<ul>
<li>Is the hotend getting hot? If not, melted filament won't come out.</li>
<li>Is the nozzle clogged? In your toolkit was a bit of thin wire for poking into the nozzle - try that and see what happens.<br> You may need to heat the hotend, extract the filament, ... | <p>I am not an expert but I think you will find that because 3D printers use a layer by layer construction method, and the boundary between the layers creates grooves along the surface or leaves a rough texture on the surface. That the textured surface left by 3D printer construction would trap microbes and make 3D pri... | <p>As the filament in the melt chamber heats up, it's going to inevitably ooze a little bit. Make sure you watch for this and clean it off as the hot-end heats up, and setup you slicing software to print a skirt, which will print a few loops around the outside of your print, separated by a few mm, to deal with ooze an... | <p>I see that you've already tried <a href="http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Meshmixer - Free Download">Meshmixer</a> and didn't find it helpful, but I wanted to call out <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-create-custom-overhang-supports-in-meshmixer/" rel="nofollow no... |
<p>I print ABS on a LulzBot Taz 5 and frequently have issues with the corners of objects lifting off the bed.</p>
<p>My extruder is at 230 °C and the bed is at 90 °C for the first layer and 100 °C for the rest of the layers.</p>
<p>I have experimented with using ABS slurry (ABS + acetone) on the bed fo... | <p>The solution I prefer to prevent ABS withdrawal is using <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/BlueTape" rel="noreferrer">Blue tape</a> on the bed, and then spread a thin layer of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate" rel="noreferrer">Polyvinyl acetate</a> (Vinavil glue). </p>
<p>If your printer allow... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>There are at least 2 options to address the problem that you have:</p>
<ol>
<li>Adjust end-stops so that in 0,0 position Z-sensor would still hang above the printing table. This would reduce printing surface but allow perfect calibration</li>
<li>Mount extra metal plate at the table mount where it would not bump in... | <h1>1 PID Tune</h1>
<p>Changing the thermosensor or the heater cartridge is a big change in the system: each of these items has internal errors differing them from each other item. If your thermosensor has a different standard resistance by a small way than the one before, if the resistance of the cartridge is differen... | <p>If you enable the option "Coasting", the extruder will follow the extrusion path at the end of switching to the next layer or the next section, but will not deposit any material as it uses the build up pressure in the nozzle to deposit the final bits. This shows up in your G-code representation by empty (non-deposit... | <p>In principle, ABS is safe for contact with (cold or room-temperature) food. The two main concerns specific to 3D printing are, assuming you start with a filament that is not itself contaminated:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Pores and holes in the printed part which may harbor bacteria</p></li>
<li><p>Impurities introduced into ... | <p>The question was migrated because the specific question of "<em>How do I tell if my Thermistors are 10k or 100k?</em>" is going to be best answered by users of Electrical Engineering SE. This also provides the SE network with more appropriate traffic based on the question at hand.</p>
<p>However, if the question of... | <h1>Let me clean up a little nomenclature</h1>
<p>The PTFE tube is either a Bowden Style Setup delivering the filament from the extruder down through the cool-end and to the heatbreak or just a liner in the cool-end and heatbreak for direct drive. In both cases they are to prevent clogs. In most setups it is <em>not</e... | <p>Axis should definitely be at proper position. Otherwise you will get at least 2 issues.</p>
<ol>
<li>Carriage will be pulled up which will cause stresses on rollers or slides and it will stress your belt</li>
<li>The way the carriage will go will change but because carriage itself is fixed then it will change the s... |
<p>Taken from the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/60/47">answer provided by @EricJohnson</a>,</p>
<p>When should I use a raft, and when should I use a brim? What advantages does each have over the other?</p>
<p>Raft
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/rOghM.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sta... | <p>A raft helps when the part has few points of contact with the print bed, and doesn't therefore adhere well at points within and without the part.</p>
<p>A brim helps when the part doesn't adhere well around the perimeter of the part.</p>
<p>There are very rare situations where you'll need both, but typically you'l... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>If anything, combing and coasting allow to <strong>mitigate problems that are printer and filament specific</strong>, rather than dependent on particular STL models.</p>
<p><strong>Combing helps</strong> - as you imply in your question - <strong>with materials prone to oozing</strong> (e.g. PETG)</p>
<p><strong>Co... | <p>If I understand correctly, your question is specifically for <strong>overhangs at 90°</strong> (so an horizontal plane that has no support under it.</p>
<p>The first to notice is that <strong>you can only pull this off if the extrusion happens perpendicular to the surface from which the overhang is coming off</stro... | <p>Your bed is too low - raise it by turning the knobs underneath.</p>
<p>The first layer should not look like strings sitting on the bed as per your photo. Instead it should be a wider strip that looks somewhat like an electronic circuit trace, or like someone has pushed wet paint out of a tube that is being wiped ac... | <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... | <p>There's no appreciable difference. Just use the filament that fits your particular printer.</p>
<p>If you don't yet have a printer, then I'd get one that uses 1.75 mm filament:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>1.75 mm is increasingly becoming the "standard", thus being easier to get. Some filaments are not available as 3... | <p>First of all, the bed should be at 100-110 °C and fan 0 %.</p>
<p>I had <em>incredibly</em> good results by using a (sacrificial) "draft shield" as shown below together with a large brim (10 mm). It creates a warmer micro-climate which keeps the print a bit warmer, with much less warping. My printer bed ba... | <p>I managed to do it in the end using AutoDesk 123D.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/izeeR.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/izeeR.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>Did it by making two coils of differing radius, then subtracting the smaller from the large... |
<p>I made a test print for a small gear (~ 1.5 inches in diameter) a few months ago, with a hole through the center. On the first try, the filament (ABS) fused to the print bed, meaning that I had to spend ten minutes scraping off material to loosen it. One solution to this is to use painter's tape spread across the pr... | <p>This can highly depend on the slicer you are using. Some software such as Makerware and Slic3r allow you to adjust the settings for the first raft/part layers. I might suggest adjusting this "Z0" point to about 1/4-1/2 of your layer height. Essentially the first layer (or two) will not adhere as well.</p>
<p>This i... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>It's really more about calibration than resolution -- a poorly calibrated printer will have dimension errors that prevent mating with true LEGO bricks or other printed bricks. </p>
<p>Also, "resolution" is an incredibly loaded term for 3d printers, because it can mean a lot of different things. But we don't need to... | <p>The question was migrated because the specific question of "<em>How do I tell if my Thermistors are 10k or 100k?</em>" is going to be best answered by users of Electrical Engineering SE. This also provides the SE network with more appropriate traffic based on the question at hand.</p>
<p>However, if the question of... | <blockquote>
<p>I have 12 parts for a model I want to print but I would like to know if I can put all of them in a single G-code file and print that on its own.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>You certainly can. The printer doesn't care how many parts there are. Many single parts, like those with holes, will have layers that have... | <p>Alright so I asked in my facebook group and a friendly fellow game me the tip to use Meshmixer from AutoCAD and then check a video on Plane cut. I only needed 3 simple cuts and the piece I needed was all ready to print. :) 40 Minutes to print and only 3g of PLA to spend :)</p>
| <p>Unless you are using a calibrated temperature sensor, it is a question what the temperature will be. </p>
<p>Actually it doesn't really matter what the temperature exactly is, you just need to find the sweet spot for your filaments on your machine. With respect to reported temperatures by others, your settings may ... | <p>Take a look at this post: <a href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15588-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15588-cura-23-not-using-full-print-area/</a>. As the raft/skirt/brim will fall outside of the build volume, Cura is not able to slice it. ... | <p>Your best option may be to seek out a silicone rubber heating mat, using those terms for your web search. A quick search on my part shows many resources, some of which are known to the 3d printing manufacturing world, while others are equally suited for that purpose.</p>
<p>Don't bond the heater to the glass. You'l... |
<p>Acetone can be used to smooth ABS prints. What safety precautions should be taken during its use?</p>
| <p>There are a few main safety precautions you should consider.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong><a href="http://sinkhacks.com/building-acetone-vapor-bath-smoothing-3d-printed-parts/" rel="nofollow">Make sure the area is well-ventilated.</a></strong> Acetone is flammable. A buildup of acetone gas could quickly get concentrated, m... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>A few thoughts that might help...</p>
<p><strong>Material:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>ABS can be vapor smoothed with Acetone which results in the layers sort of "melting" together to form a smoother, and less porous surface.</li>
<li>Other plastics can be smoothed with compatible solvents, but I've not tried solvent sm... | <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... | <p>If you haven't been to their site before, you should check out the forums on 3DHubs. There's a lot of how-to's. A quick Google search yields <a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/accelerated-nozzle-wear" rel="noreferrer">this</a> link to a similar question.</p>
<p>The key thing to note is that in all technica... | <p>I have been using a sort of a very strong hairspray called 3DLAC for about 2 years directly onto the aluminium heat bed of the Anet A8 printer I have.</p>
<p>Basically, all those sprays contain copolymer constituents, PVA (PolyVinyl Alcohol), Vinyl or Acetate. These are also found in certain glue sticks or wood g... | <p>Almost all 3D printers have issues that could cause health problems.</p>
<p>FDM/FFF printers heat plastic to a temperature that may cause it to off-gas, and these byproducts may not be healthy.</p>
<p>SLA printers often use epoxies that may off-gas, or may be somewhat toxic prior to being cured.</p>
<p>Powder bas... | <p>Yes, it is actually pretty hard to find that information. First thing is that the resin never stops curing. Additional exposure to UV will continue to degrade the material over time. This is true of even plastics (and human flesh), however, in the case of UV resins we're talking about years not weeks. Each manufactu... | <p>Taken in order your questions:</p>
<p>Maintenance for a resin printer means keeping the vat or tray clean, using appropriate methods to remove the unused resin (or leaving it in the vat per manufacturer's directions). Cleaning the tray should be done also per manufacturer's spec, although each printer's user forum ... |
<p>I would like to print multiple parts continuously (non-interactively), so
I can leave the printer alone for a longer time. So after finish, parts could be moved somehow out from the printing area, so the next can start.</p>
<p>Are there any methods of achieving that with standard desktop printers without having to ... | <p>The only thing I can think of off hand is an old mod for the early MakerBot machines. It first was released for the Thing-O'-Matic I believe, but is compatible with Replicator 1 machines (and its knock-offs). Here's the <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4056" rel="noreferrer">Thingiverse page</a>, but look u... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>This sounds like you have an adhesion problem if it catches laid down filament, you might want to address that first. E.g. use a PVA based glue or spray to get better adhesion. This will result in not dragging laid down filament. </p>
<p>To my knowledge, Ultimaker Cura has no option to choose how you print the squa... | <p>On my Kossel Mini I programmed it to go to the edge of the bed and purge a small amount of filament which creates a dot. I purge enough to get the dot to stick to the bed and then go on with printing, when the head moves the dot stays attached and usually pulls excess material off the nozzle. This can be added to ... | <p><a href="http://sourceforge.net/projects/pdfcreator/" rel="noreferrer">PDFCreator</a> has a COM component, callable from .NET or VBScript (samples included in the download). </p>
<p>But, it seems to me that a printer is just what you need - just mix that with <a href="http://www.codeproject.com/KB/office/WordPrint.... | <p>open a TCP socket to the LPR port on the target printer.</p>
<p>send your data; as long as the printer comprehends it, you're cool.</p>
<p>don't forget a Line feed when you're done.</p>
<p>(then close the port.)</p>
| <p>You can print to dot matrix "graphically", which is built-in in Windows, albeit slower. </p>
<p>But if you only want to print pure text with simple formattings, you need to send escape commands to your dot matrix printer, which is faster than graphical printing. Different printers has different escape commands.</... | <p>The answer is that <strong><em>it depends on the type of firmware</em></strong> you are using.</p>
<p>Let us look at the documentation of <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>G4</code></a> to find that <code>G4</code> is valid for all the listed firmware types:
<a href=... | <p>If you keep the head hot during the pause, and over the print, you will melt the material already deposited.</p>
<p>If you move to X0 Y0 (like on a layer change) and pause there, you can cool off the head (or not), but will want to prime (advance) some material before resuming your print - or risk an initial void, ... |
<p>For standard ABS and PLA filament, most distributors recommend storing the filament in an airtight bag. Does not doing this actually make print quality worse? I have left mine in the open for a year and have had no noticeable problems.</p>
| <p><strong>Humidity may be the problem.</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://3dprint.com/68083/airtight-filament-delivery/" rel="nofollow">Humidity tends to degrade filament, making it weaker.</a> If you leave a coil of filament out, over time it will be exposed to humidity. I have yet to hear of this happening over a shor... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I decided to collect the dust and treat both PLA and ABS with chemicals to completely break them down. That solves the issue and I won't rely on false hopes that somehow it does not end up in the environment.</p>
| <p>Here is the mental framework that I use to reason about PETG: In a nutshell you want to <strong>avoid nozzle contact</strong>.</p>
<p>Unlike most other plastics, PETG sticks to hot brass really well and every time the nozzle moves through material it will pick up some of it. Material around the the nozzle then stic... | <p>Reading your question it's not clear to me if you are referring to <em>filament retraction</em> (which is a configurable setting) or <em>surface recesses</em> which seems what you are referring to when writing:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>the nature of the print surface, with lots of retracts</p>
</blockquote>
<p>If it ... | <p>The up-curling of overhangs is frequently seen when printing PLA or PETG when the just deposited layer hasn't been cooled enough. The residual heat will allow the curling as the plastic has not been fully set (above the so called glass temperature) because of insufficient part cooling.</p>
<p>Knowing that ABS doesn'... | <p>As the filament in the melt chamber heats up, it's going to inevitably ooze a little bit. Make sure you watch for this and clean it off as the hot-end heats up, and setup you slicing software to print a skirt, which will print a few loops around the outside of your print, separated by a few mm, to deal with ooze an... | <p>Some things I've tried that have helped:</p>
<p>Lay down a layer of masking tape. Most people who do this use blue painter's tape. The plastic should stick nicely during printing, yet release reasonably easily when you remove the print from the heated bed.</p>
<p>Lay down a later of Kapton tape. The principle is t... | <blockquote>
<p>What is this called</p>
</blockquote>
<p>This is called <strong>warping</strong>.</p>
<p>Warping of prints occurs frequently when you use a filament that shrinks. If the model would shrink uniformly, it will become smaller, like in a scaled version (unfortunately, the print is attached somewhere, which ... |
<p>I want to fabricate a sample holder and shadow masks to use in vacuum chambers. The type of printing material is not important to me PLA/ABS/PC-ABS/nylon).</p>
<p>I'm worried that 3d printed objects (FDM) would degas under high vacuum. Is that an actual concern?</p>
| <p>Almost all of the FDM materials outgas even at normal atmospheric pressure, and, in fact, most plastics outgas. Further, FDM and many other printing processes do not guarantee no internal voids - meaning that putting a 3D printed object into a vacuum may result in breakage, cracking, and possible explosion hazards.... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>As long as there is no more information about the printer itself (I searched a bit and around half of buyers were severely unhappy with the result), I'd advise you to make a full check of all of the important parts that make up a 3D printer making ok prints:</p>
<ul>
<li>Are motors moving as they should?</li>
<li>I... | <p><em>Posted as a wiki answer from a comment from the OP to a different <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16584">answer</a>.</em></p>
<hr />
<p>The <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/16584"><code>Zig Zag</code> vs <code>Lines</code> patterns</a> was only a part of the problem. The 2<sup>nd</... | <p>PETG works as support material for PLA, see video</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
<iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3lZlyzYJd-I?start=12"></iframe>
</div></div></p>
<p>In theory, PLA printed on top of PETG will be fine because PETG softens a... | <p>I have printed kilometers of PETG and found the sweet-spot for my brand to be 240 °C for the hotend and 70 °C for the build plate (for my Ultimaker 3 that is, the extruder temp is 5 °C higher for my home build HyperCube Evolution). The reason for the 70 °C is that the glass temperature of PETG is aro... | <p>Advice from another source suggested thoroughly cleaning the feed gear on the bowden extruder. When I looked closely there were plastic flakes all over the mechanism. I used compressed air and a brush to clean it.
I also discovered expert mode in the FlashPrint software, which enabled me to slow down the speed at... | <p>I had the same problem printing a miniature just recently. As always, settings are somewhat dependent from the object you want to print, but here are some suggestions:</p>
<ul>
<li>Increase the support density: 15% (8% is very low!)</li>
<li>Support pattern: zig-zag with "connect zig-zag" option enabled (add stiff... | <p>Most likely, the 3D-printers used on ISS does not incorporate some fundamental difference that allow them to print in zero gravity.</p>
<p>Some people over at <a href="http://3dprint.com/62797/3d-printing-upside-down/" rel="noreferrer">3Dprint.com</a> raised a very similar question, and figured that when turning th... |
<p>I have a 3d printer that uses ABS filament. The software I use will generate vertical supports for my objects before printing that can be easily broken off after they have been used during print to hold sharp angles up that would normally fall.</p>
<p>After breaking off the stints, the print is far from smooth. Is ... | <p>I use normal wet/dry sandpaper and it works just fine. If I remember correctly, I usually start with 220 and then work my way up to 400, 600, and 800.</p>
<p>There are also foam or rubber sanding pads available that work really well when you're sanding something organically shaped.</p>
<p>The grits you start and f... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Yes, with the proper equipment.</p>
<p>Printing wax filament (at 51 seconds): <a href="https://youtu.be/tibkVZB_n9c?t=51s" rel="noreferrer">https://youtu.be/tibkVZB_n9c?t=51s</a></p>
<p>There are also options for melting wax, filling a heated reservoir head, and printing with that. I recommend doing this with a co... | <p>Mine is more of an educated guess than a definitive diagnosis, but <strong>it looks to me like if your printer may be overextruding</strong> (it's difficult to say with certainty with this particular picture, but your top layers too do not look as good as they should).</p>
<p><strong>I wonder if you have <a href="h... | <p>First layer rippling is usually caused by a too low of a first layer height (for the amount of extruded filament).</p>
<p>Are you sure that:</p>
<ol>
<li>Your bed is leveled as good as possible, and</li>
<li>the initial height between the nozzle and the bed is correct when Z=0 (A4 paper thickness, when moved shoul... | <h1>Printing temperature basics</h1>
<p>Manufacturers generally specify a somewhat wide range of printing temperatures, and what temperature you should actually need can only be determined by trial and error:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>The thermistor in your hotend is not 100 % accurate and may have an offset of a few degrees com... | <p>I'm not sure how similar the two systems are, but I use a Stratasys uPrint SE Plus and I've run into a similar problem. </p>
<p>There are two rollers in the head that pull the filament through to the extruder nozzle, and in one instance they appeared to have heated up, melted the filament enough to create two "inde... | <p>Assuming your filament dimension settings are correct and your extruder is correctly calibrated...</p>
<p><strong>Your extruder temperature may be too low.</strong> While 184C can be hot enough, it is very near the bottom of the range for PLA and it appears your filament isn't melting quickly enough to keep up wit... | <h2>Safety first</h2>
<p>I suggest the following handling of resins, some basic stuff first:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>ALWAYS</strong> wear disposable, one-use gloves when handling resin.</li>
<li>Respirators are highly advised to be worn.</li>
<li>Work in a well-ventilated area.</li>
<li>Tools dedicated to resin handling a... |
<p>I'm going to 3D print a part that needs to meet certain strength requirements, due to its usages. I know how strong a particular plastic (eg. comrpessive/tensile/shear strength) is when dealt with in a solid chunk, but not when it is 3D printed. What is a good way to estimate the change?</p>
| <p>I use normal wet/dry sandpaper and it works just fine. If I remember correctly, I usually start with 220 and then work my way up to 400, 600, and 800.</p>
<p>There are also foam or rubber sanding pads available that work really well when you're sanding something organically shaped.</p>
<p>The grits you start and f... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Looking at the infill pattern visible through the tears in the top layer, it looks as if you have unreliable extrusion on the infill layers also.</p>
<p>The solid fill layer is lifted and torn, so it is unlikely that one or two more layers of solid fill will make the result better. In my experience, bumps lead to ... | <p>The best thing you can do for a large ABS print is to have an enclosure heated to 50C or better. For example, see <a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/enclosed-vs-open-printers" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>, <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/2ynb78/heated_build_enclosure_temperatures... | <p>A tool that you might find useful for experimenting with acceleration is <a href="http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRap Centrals Acceleration Calculator</a> (at the bottom).</p>
<p>By setting an <em>acceleration</em>, <em>length of travel</em> and <em>target speed</em>, you can see:... | <p>For casings I use a combination of TPU and PETG or PLA. PETG shell gives it rigidity and TPU gives it a bit of impact protection. So corners and inside layers of TPU within a hard PETG or PLA shell (shell has no corners).</p>
<p>I haven't had a problem with either but obviously PLA won't withstand heat very well, so... | <p>You will certainly find that the print functionality of a 3d printer is a bit more complex than you suggest. The mechanical portions include a means to push the filament into a heated nozzle as well as the software portion to regulate the speed of the filament movement. You haven't referenced the heater cartridge an... | <p>Generally speaking, the typical algorithm takes into account the slicer's speed settings for specific features of the build, such as infill, perimeters, top/bottom layers, etc. The distance traveled by the nozzle at a specific speed for each feature is also part of the equations involved. There are some rather vague... | <p>I suggest Blender. It's not the simplest of tools but it is free and learning it will improve your 3D printing skills. :-) (I write this answer also for future viewers of this question so I start basic).</p>
<p>Another answer can be found here, <a href="https://blender.stackexchange.com/q/19772/14005">How do I measu... |
<p>When you add a raft in Slic3r, the first layer of the raft prints at the first layer speed. After the raft is finished, the first layer of the print prints at the standard speed. How can I make the first layer of the actual print slow down to the first layer speed?</p>
| <p>This is still work in progress, and here is what I have so far, but first:</p>
<p><strong>A useful alternative for similar problems:</strong></p>
<p>A problem very similar to this would be to use different settings for different parts of a model in Slic3r. For most settings, this can be achieved through <a href="h... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>It is not too rare to create a new machine in Ultimaker Cura to be set to 2.85 mm as this is the default. Also some bugs in the past did reset or assume this diameter unless you manually set it, and unless we know your exact version we can't confirm it is really this.</p>
<h2>Underextrusion why?</h2>
<p>The 0.55 mm ... | <p>Our local library has a genuine Prusa i3 Mk2.5 that recently had this problem. Because of the number of fingers engaging such a system, it was not immediately discovered that a different profile had been selected in which the Z-hop was turned off.</p>
<p>Z-hop is a feature in which the nozzle lifts slightly (and is... | <p>Last first: use of a raft has nothing to do with bed levelling. It depends only on the features/shape/etc of the object being printed.</p>
<p>Now, as to what the auto-levelling does: the answer is, sadly "it depends." A simple algorithm will just find the Z-height of the four corners and apply a bilinear correcti... | <p>All three of these features are used to improve the quality and success rate of prints, especially those failing due to issues on the first few layers, or due to the small size of the first layer.</p>
<h1>Raft</h1>
<p>A raft is a horizontal feature made as the first few layers of a print, and is used to help with be... | <p>The Micro Swiss hotend uses an all metal hotend. These type of hotends are more difficult to operate considering they do not have a Teflon liner that shields the filament from heat exchange from the cold end (the Teflon/PTFE tube acts as an insulator). From <a href="https://www.proto-pasta.com/blogs/how-to/avoid-clo... | <p>Note that <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this reference</a> states that:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Because the behavior of <code>G28</code> is unspecified, it is recommended <strong>not</strong> to automatically include <code>G28</code> in your <strong>... | <p>There are a few probable causes I can think of based on your description. That it only starts happening after the printer has been running for a bit makes me think it's a heat issue.</p>
<p>The first problem I'd check out is that extruder motor getting that hot. It should be warm, but not so hot it's uncomfortable t... |
<p>Assuming you have a high quality printer with a fast processor, will you see a noticeable improvement by upgrading from 16X/32X microstepping drivers to 64X/128X microstepping drivers? (e.g. smoother surface finish). In what ways do they perform differently from the more common 16X or 32X stepper drivers. I'm thin... | <p>You will likely not see a noticeable improvement by upgrading from a 16x or 32x to a 64x or 128x microstepping driver. Depending on the motors you're driving and the size of the load you could actually see a decrease in quality.</p>
<p>Although microstepping increases theoretical resolution it does not necessarily ... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>A number of options exist, but keep in mind that cost will be a limiting factor.</p>
<p><em>(Small sidenote: cost depends on persective, financial cost does not equal mental cost. The tradeoff between buy or make depends also on your willingness to persist when things don't work right away.)</em></p>
<p><strong>Be... | <p>After two weeks of working on different settings in different slicers, I finally have a profile which has improved the quality of my printings. It still has some overhangs, which I'm sure will improve by increasing the cooling flow like 0scar already mentioned.</p>
<p>Here is the profile bundle (for Prusa Slicer): <... | <blockquote>
<p>One of the things I was told about was that many printers don't necessarily have that crazy precision of 0.05 mm (50 micron). Another person told me something different - he said most of those printers actually were capable of putting out 50 micron layer height. How is it really?</p>
</blockquote>
<p... | <blockquote>
<p>that the NEMA17 motor would be using 400 Steps per mm in Z. <code>configuration_adv.h</code> tells that the microsteps on the Z-axis motor are 16.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Easy. There are 400 microsteps in a millimeter, and 16 microsteps in a full step. So, there are 400/16=25 full steps in a millimeter.... | <p>The biggest effect I've see on resolution is due to plastic stress due to thermal gradients.</p>
<p>The higher resolution prints build up more layers of material, and each layer has a cumulative effect on thermal stress. The upper layers pulling up more as they cool, and the lower layers curling up more strongly a... | <blockquote>
<p>The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>This is to some degree, completely normal and expected. From the <a href="https://www.oyostepper.com/images/upload/File/17HS19-1684S1.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">datasheet for a typical NEMA 17 steppe... | <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... |
<p>I've had my printer for almost a year now.</p>
<p>Is there something I should be doing to maintain the motors?</p>
| <p>No, stepper motors do not require maintenance. They are a brushless kind of motor, so they do not have brushes that need to be replaced.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p><strong>Humidity may be the problem.</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://3dprint.com/68083/airtight-filament-delivery/" rel="nofollow">Humidity tends to degrade filament, making it weaker.</a> If you leave a coil of filament out, over time it will be exposed to humidity. I have yet to hear of this happening over a shor... | <p>For the overheating, you may need to turn the juice down a little on your Power Supply. Typically, there is a potentiometer inside that trims the voltage level coming from there. Some things can heat up if it's over-volting and needing to drop more voltage for the board.</p>
<p>For the temperature reading stuff, ma... | <p>Whether you should use a thermal fuse or not depends on what other safety measures you've taken. You can't look at the safety features of a printer in isolation, you need to look at what other measures are in place.</p>
<p>The main fire hazard in printers is unfortunately (still) the fact that some manufacturers us... | <p>A mid-weight PTFE grease like the popular Superlube will work in all the cases you mention (bearings, screws, and sintered bushings). 3D printer service conditions are quite light-duty as far as lubricants are concerned. You really just need to keep everything a little bit "wet" with oil or grease and performance wi... | <p>A good option would be to have several reference questions, such as "What to look for when comparing printers?" or "How to select a 3D printer?" to which we could redirect these users.</p>
| <p>The build surface on the Ender3 is a BuildTak clone. The picture is a bit unclear, but given my experience with BuildTak (clones) this certainly damage because of heat. You can, as suggested before, replace the bed surface, but I do not think it is necessary at this stage. </p>
<p>Normally these surfaces do not get... | <p>user77232's points are valid but I have done several things to mitigate these issues on my Anycubic Deltas. </p>
<p>First, both of my deltas have linear slide bearings. If your's has the bearing trucks that run in the extrusion slots this will lead to less precise operation and also is a source of wear over time. <... |
<p>What materials which are <a href="http://www.shapeways.com/materials/">commonly used in 3D printing</a>, are food-safe?</p>
<p>Are there any certifications/grading process for such materials, which can help me with my cross-checking and selection?</p>
<hr>
<p>I have been using an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org... | <p>Food safety is a property of both the process and the material. You can't stick food-safe material in a printer that has previously been used to print something food-dangerous and expect the result to be food safe.</p>
<p>The only way to know if a given material is food-safe is to ask your supplier, but a lot depen... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Wash-away filament used for support in PLA printing is typically PVA, which is completely water soluble and may serve your purpose. It is easily 3D printed as the primary filament and attaches well to the build plate.</p>
<p>Many 3D printer filament suppliers will carry this type of support material. It is importan... | <p>and welcome to 3D Printing Stack Exchange.</p>
<p>No. Not all 3D printers can print flexible material.</p>
<p>The first place you will have trouble is in the extruder itself. Flexible filament will find any way to escape from the confines of the rollers and the guide tube. Any opening will allow the filament to... | <p>Here is a great article on the subject, <a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/how-make-your-own-filament-recycling-old-3d-prints-part-1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How to make your own filament by recycling old 3D prints | Part 1</a>.</p>
<p>At $20/kg for new material, it is going to be hard for recycling to b... | <p><strong>What bed material cools faster?</strong></p>
<p>I found an <a href="http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html">extensive list</a> which relates various materials to their <em>thermal conductivity</em>, k [W/mK]; the lower thermal conductivity, the better the material insulates, and t... | <blockquote>
<p>One of the things I was told about was that many printers don't necessarily have that crazy precision of 0.05 mm (50 micron). Another person told me something different - he said most of those printers actually were capable of putting out 50 micron layer height. How is it really?</p>
</blockquote>
<p... | <p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/4488/5740">EvilTeach's</a> answer is correct, ABS is a more reliable plastic for any kind of work which may get above what feels "hot to the touch." </p>
<p>Just to elaborate on the why: the property you're looking for in the thermoplastic (which will determine the co... | <p>ABS dissolves in acetone, you could try clipping a small section and leave it in some acetone for a few minutes and if it begins to dissolve it's safe to assume that it's ABS, if not then you'll know that it's not.</p>
<p>This won't confirm that it is PLA, only whether it's ABS or not.</p>
|
<p>Suddenly, my printer has started producing prints that have a very pronounced layering. Normally, the alignment between layers is very good, and the prints look very smooth. Suddenly, the prints have become much worse and the layers are misaligned with respect to each other.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.co... | <p>It appears the heatbreak of my E3D nozzle had worked itself loose from the heatsink, allowing the nozzle to wobble around a bit. Because the nozzle was still tight against the heatbreak I didn't experience any issues with my hotend, but because the heatbreak was slightly loose the nozzle wasn't properly constrained ... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Use Taulman t-glase and after a light sanding with really fine paper (optional really, but go for it if you can), spray it with polyurethane varnish or something similar. Check out the article <a href="http://3dprint.com/29292/taulman-hacks-clear-t-glase-3d-printing-material/">here</a>.</p>
| <p>The properties of the maternal are not what changes after you print. It is how you use the material. PLA and ABS prints aren't usually subject to +100 °C after printing.</p>
<p>When PLA absorbs moisture it becomes brittle. PLA filament will break when trying to print. Your PLA print may be thick enough so that b... | <p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8" rel="nofollow">See here</a> for why you <em>shouldn't</em> calibrate your X/Y-steps. The value of 100 is probably better and will give more accurate prints overall than the value you came up with.</p>
<p>When uploading new firmware you generally do not have to p... | <p>As a user of an UM3E, which uses Bowden tubes and has TPU as an available material, I can tell you that the kinking issues can be alleviated or downright avoided. </p>
<p>I've printed quite a few things with the Ultimaker-brand TPU 95, and never had problems with kinking in the tube. </p>
<p>Ultimaker uses 2.85 mm... | <p>Thingieverse does respect the orientation an item was designed in, just like most slicers will. Designers will often choose any one of the three planes (XY, YZ, ZX) as their first by preference, then work out the other parts in relation to the first. This does often not take into account the actual print orientation... | <p>Embarassingly, I discovered that the cable to the heatbed was sometimes caught between the on/off switch and the adjacent power plug. So, for high Y values the cable was very tight and the bed could not be moved. Presumably the "knocking" came from the Y-axis motor. The problem was fixed by attaching this ... | <p>I just discovered that OctoPrint only reads .gcode files for printing (apparently, unless you have a slicing software embedded in it), so I installed <a href="http://slic3r.org/download" rel="nofollow">Slic3r</a> separately, and ran</p>
<pre><code>./slic3r mystlfile.stl
</code></pre>
<p>to generate a .gcode file (... |
<p>I am working on a robotics project and need to print some gears. These will probably by under a LOT of pressure. Which material/filament should I choose so that the gears don't wear off easily?</p>
<p>PS: Newbie here...</p>
<p><strong>EDIT:</strong>
According to my instuctor, it has to be some sort of plastic (not... | <p>So, as you say you want to materials for printing robotics parts. And as you have not given any budget constraint, I would give you a list of materials which would help you achieve the task, and you can choose amongst them accordingly.</p>
<ol>
<li>Plastics: Basically used for building prototypes. Nylon Polyamide s... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>The first indication for print speed and temperature should be taken from the box the filament comes in. Generally it specifies temperature ranges for the hotend and the heated bed. Sometime, mostly online, more parameters can be found amongst which is the printing speed. </p>
<p>Do note that temperature and printi... | <p>extruder clicking means you're getting backed up, grinding.</p>
<ul>
<li>Make the hotend hotter so you can melt filament 3X faster than expected; most materials have quite a range; aim high.</li>
<li>Slow down the cooling fan; a lot of them can cool the hotend.</li>
<li>You have a silicone boot on the nozzle? that w... | <p>A couple things to consider:</p>
<ul>
<li>Ensure that your build plate is flat and level. An un-parallel HBP could result in the object "welding" to the raft.</li>
<li>Turn down your nozzle temperature. It is likely that the material is hotter than it needs as it is extruding. This results in a slower "cool-down ra... | <p>I'm adding this answer to somewhat challenge the findings of my original answer, and the premise of the question: PETG does not need lower print speeds, and can even be printed at higher speeds than PLA under some conditions due to reduced need for cooling. You can see this from some of the "#speedboatrace"... | <p>When dealing with lubrication of plastics, any solvent or reactive substance is to be avoided. Petroleum is risky and Vaseline™ is a brand name for petroleum jelly.</p>
<p>I've had quite good results using inert lubrication such as PTFE and silicone based lubes. PTFE is the generic term for <a href="http://www.chm.b... | <p>The small filaments you remove that hold the parts up are called supports. The one model I located on Thingiverse clearly requires a number of supports, as the model is not easily designed for 3d printing with FDM printers. It would be better printed with SLS, but that's not the focus of your question.</p>
<p>You d... | <p>The site is not well-suited to crowd-sourced invention, but the drawbacks to your suggestion are (I think) on topic.</p>
<p>The hotend has two main tasks. Accurate control of extrusion, and maintaining the desired volumetric melt rate. One factor which influences extrusion quality is the size of the melt-zone - gen... |
<p>I would like to print edible cookies or ornamentation for a cake.</p>
<p>Is printing with edible materials achievable by standard thermoplastic-like 3D desktop printer? Or you need to buy a special printer to do that?</p>
| <p>You can, but that doesn't mean it's very easy.</p>
<p>You don't have to buy a special printer, but you need a special extruder (such as <a href="http://www.structur3d.io/" rel="noreferrer">http://www.structur3d.io/</a>). Most of these systems can print anything with the consistency of Nutella. However, many parts o... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Sort of related, see the answers to:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3771/commercially-available-3d-printer-fume-and-ufp-extractor">Commercially available 3D printer fume and UFP extractor</a>, and;</li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-are-th... | <p>Yes and No at the same time:</p>
<h1>3D Printing is a subset of Additive Manufacturing</h1>
<h3>but treated as a synonym at this time</h3>
<p>3D printing is a process that takes some material, in a fluid state that fuses with the model to shape an object from it. The material could be plastics, ceramic paste or even... | <p>I've looked into doing something similar to this before and love the idea, never had the chance to follow through on it yet. This is sort of a hybrid method between cast molding and 3D printing. </p>
<p>The accepted answer to a question I had a while back had some very good points by fred_dot_u</p>
<p><a href="ht... | <p>Sure there is. As you use Cura, you can grab any G-code file (you already have) and use it to set hotend temperature (delete the actual printing part from the file) to get something like this:</p>
<pre><code>;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:102
;Filament used: 0.0573674m
;Layer height: 0.2
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.3.... | <p>If I understand your question correctly, it sounds like you're looking somewhere within the <a href="http://reprap.org/" rel="noreferrer">RepRap</a> realm. The RepRap community is mostly responsible for the boom in consumer 3D printing in the past 10 years, and that's most likely because it's <strong>open source</st... | <h1>Printing temperature basics</h1>
<p>Manufacturers generally specify a somewhat wide range of printing temperatures, and what temperature you should actually need can only be determined by trial and error:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>The thermistor in your hotend is not 100 % accurate and may have an offset of a few degrees com... | <p>One aspect of having this level of control with 3d printing of a model is the removal of the need for supports and the attendant post-processing. In the case of the model shown in the video, some effects are created by printing the continents in a conformal manner that would otherwise be impossible with conventional... |
<p>I would like to print fancy plastic cutlery sets or plastic glasses.</p>
<p>Is it safe to do it? Or bad for your health, if so, why?</p>
| <p>As others have pointed out, PLA isn't specifically not food safe, but materials that have been printed previously can contaminate the PLA.</p>
<p>Additionally, anything 3D printed is extremely porous. Once a part is used for food, moisture and bacteria will accumulate in the pores, and can never be completely clean... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Obviously being in a rush can limit your options, but here are a few thoughts:</p>
<p><strong>Quick solutions:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Blue painters tape</strong> (as Carl mentioned) will work directly on your heated bed...assuming it's a flat piece of aluminum with the heating element under it. Your surfac... | <p>Ethyl acetate (sold as a MEK substitute) is supposed to work for vapor smoothing PET. It doesn't seem very toxic (it's used to decaffinate cofee and tea, and as a nail polish remover), but you might want to look more into it. There's a post on Printed Solid's blog where he vapor smoothed colorFabb XT and MadeSolid... | <p>ABS dissolves in acetone, you could try clipping a small section and leave it in some acetone for a few minutes and if it begins to dissolve it's safe to assume that it's ABS, if not then you'll know that it's not.</p>
<p>This won't confirm that it is PLA, only whether it's ABS or not.</p>
| <p>Some things I've tried that have helped:</p>
<p>Lay down a layer of masking tape. Most people who do this use blue painter's tape. The plastic should stick nicely during printing, yet release reasonably easily when you remove the print from the heated bed.</p>
<p>Lay down a later of Kapton tape. The principle is t... | <h2>First; find a model!</h2>
<p>To print something you require a <strong>model</strong> (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a> and <a href="https://www.myminifactory.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MyMiniFactory</a> for e... | <p>Neither your thermistor nor your heater cartridge should ever be capable of becoming loose from your hotend, let alone the fact it's capable of reaching 800 °C before your printer even notices (This is a massive issue in itself!!!)</p>
<p>Silicone socks are safe, unless you're printing materials with extre... | <p>There are a few options.</p>
<ol>
<li>Machines are available which grind the used plastic into fine pieces, melt it down, and extrude it as filament to be reused. <a href="http://www.filabot.com/">Filabot</a> is perhaps the most well known.</li>
<li>Depending on where you live the local recycling programs may accep... |
<p>In my slicing software (Slic3r) some of the vertices/walls of my model seem to have disappeared, so that the inside of the model - which should be solid - is visible, while the surface appears as a thin shell.</p>
<p>Why does this happen? Is it still safe to export the model for printing?</p>
| <p>My understanding is that this occurs when the object is not a true solid. Since an STL holds the triangulation of each face and spline, the slicing engine is not "smart" enough to determine if there is a gap in the model and therefore if it should be filled in and how. When the slicer encounters a gap, it ... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Depending on what kind of printer you have, the build table origin and slicer origin (0,0) are usually either the front left corner, or the center of the build plate. This can be changed by the end-user in most open-source printers. There is no standard or requirement for a particular origin location. The important ... | <p>People like PLA for dimensional accuracy. It's disadvantage is it becomes brittle, which can be an issue especially with thin prints if the application tends to bend it (applying force). Working with settings and with a 0.4 mm nozzle, typical for most printers using PLA, you can print walls as thin as 1 mm, but st... | <p>Answer was moved to this question: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/147/which-are-the-food-safe-materials-and-how-do-i-recognize-them">Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?</a></p>
| <p>OK, after going via all the options I found that CURA has a combing mode which reduces retraction and offers another option which is <code>Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling</code>.</p>
<p>That solves my problem.</p>
| <p>A close inspection of what happened when printing the first layer resulted in this:</p>
<ul>
<li>The missing steps on the new print came from the nozzle scraping too close to the print surface, which lead to no first layer</li>
<li>Readjusting the Z-axis end stop, which had moved down, resulted in no more lost step... | <p>As Oscar commented, check the tail end of your gcode files. Most slicing software includes commands to move the head to x=0,y=0 at the very least. I am a bit surprised that your files don't appear to have this, since Cura does apply said code. </p>
<p>Possiblly there's something lacking in your printer's firmware... | <p>So you are printing at 80 mm/s speed * 0.3 mm layer height * something about 0.5 mm line width, which is about 12 mm<sup>3</sup>/s which is likely too much for many printers.</p>
<p>Try keeping linear speed at 60 mm/s and, if you have a 0.4 mm nozzle, never go above 0.24 mm layer thickness if you care about strength... |
<p>I'm interested in designing & 3D printing as a hobby (e.g. printing chess sets, small toys for family etc.)</p>
<p>Conducting a Google search has brought up a range of small, cheap printers, but beyond that I don't know how to differentiate them.</p>
<p>E.g. selling points include:</p>
<ul>
<li>"liquid light-... | <p>Here are few things to consider from my point of view</p>
<hr>
<p><strong>Printing technology</strong></p>
<p>The first thing that you need to take into account is printing technology. The most common[citation needed] right now is Fused Filament Fabrication. "Liquid light-sensitive resin" is being used in Stereol... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p><strong>GCode flavor</strong>: the firmware your machine uses. Google tells me CR-10 uses Marlin, so you should select that. Volumetric Marlin is not very common.</p>
<p>Print Head Settings
<strong>X/Y min/max</strong> define the bounding box of the area your print head takes up. Measure the distance from the centr... | <p>All commonly used slicers (e.g., Cura, Slic3r, Simplify3D,...) give an estimation of the print time.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPaM6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPaM6.png" alt="Example of print time estimation in Cura"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgu... | <p>As I learned after <a href="https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin">asking about the chemistry of a 3D printing Resin</a>, the material uses radical polymerisation to get a well connected, branched copolymer. It is comparable to resin cast material but more brittle. ... | <p>I must admit, I've never printed a key...but I think I can help anyway:</p>
<p><strong>Print method:</strong>
Consider printing on side, solid concentric infill. Or, if you can't manipulate your infill pattern, just increase the perimeter so you get the same effect, several continuous perimeter layers around the o... | <p>Your choice of firmware depends on a lot of factors, but to name a few important ones: features, your driver board (RAMPS vs Sanguinololu vs Gen..etc), and G-code support.</p>
<p>Smooth/quiet operation is dependent on the motors and the driver chip's micro-stepping capabilities. The way the firmware interfaces with... | <p>Yes, you can print most of the parts (electronics, linear guide rails, ball bearings and nuts and bolts, etc cannot be printed). Actually this was exactly the purpose of <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap" rel="noreferrer">RepRap.org</a>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>RepRap is humanity's first general-purpose self-re... | <p>The short answer is, you use the temps and speeds that give you good results. It's trial and error. </p>
<p>The temperature number your printer reports really doesn't matter. That's just a process control variable: it needs to be consistent and repeatable, but it doesn't need to be accurate against an independent r... |
<p>I'm reading about wiring up the electronic components to my Prusa i3 using an Arduino Mega 2650 and Ramps 1.4.</p>
<p>I have step sticks, a heated bed, and a <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI" rel="noreferrer">Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w</a> (more details on that later when I ... | <ul>
<li><p>Polarity matters, sometimes. Be especially mindful of the wires from your power supply to the board, as getting those the wrong way around will definitely cause damage. Heated beds and extruders are not polarity sensitive, and can go in either way. Fans are polarized, but will probably survive if you get th... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>My problem was 2 things. The <strong>heatbreak</strong>, which was switched out for the MK2 version(Explantation below). And the <strong>Teflon Tube</strong> that runs down the heatsink.</p>
<h2>Heatbreak</h2>
<p>Change the heat-break to a generic E3D one. You can order the heatbreak for the <strong>MK2</strong> f... | <p>The maximum operating temperature can be found in the specifications of your steppers. Usually the ambient temperature operating conditions are limited to 50 °C with a maximum operating temperature in the range of 70 - 100 °C. For instance, the steppers I use are limited to a temperature of 80 °C. It is ... | <p>Embarassingly, I discovered that the cable to the heatbed was sometimes caught between the on/off switch and the adjacent power plug. So, for high Y values the cable was very tight and the bed could not be moved. Presumably the "knocking" came from the Y-axis motor. The problem was fixed by attaching this ... | <p><strong>No</strong>, this is not common behavior, and <strong>yes</strong> this can cause your prints to warp or detach from the build plate.</p>
<p>The question is whether you instructed this (by accident) or not (e.g. it can be a result from slicing or some economy mode of the printer). This should be clear if yo... | <p>A couple of points:</p>
<p>Asking for a machine to solve a specific problem, or software which can do something 'specific' is not really a shopping question, so long as the question is asked in the right way. We do need to avoid subjective questions, but sometimes this can be the result of a misunderstanding (i.e. ... | <p>I think that you should first verify that you have the latest firmware and a newer version of MakerWare. I experienced similar issues around that version of MakerWare and remember a lot of print errors came with it.</p>
<p>I believe the MakerBot Dual firmware is somewhere around 7.? and is no longer in development.... | <p>Check your slicer settings. Some slicers allow the temperature to change at a specified layer. You may have programmed the slic3r to turn off the bed after the first (or maybe zeroth) layer.</p>
<p>You call also examine the G-code for M140, M144, and M190 commands.</p>
<p>Of course, the usual intermittent ele... |
<p>Printer: FDM printer (FDM == Fusion Deposition Modelling).</p>
<p>Raw Material: Thermoplastics.</p>
<p>How do I do multicolor printing? What changes should I make to the printing process/to the raw material used?</p>
<p>(Answer in the context of printing a basic 3X3 Rubix cube)</p>
<hr>
<p>Bonus: What are the ... | <p>There are a few different approaches I've seen which you could look into.</p>
<p>The easiest and most common is multiple extruders, each with a different color of thermoplastic. Tools like Pronterface and Slic3r have built-in support for multiple extruders. With multiple extruders you can get one color per extruder... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Filament made of Polylactic acid (<a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/PLA" rel="nofollow">PLA</a>) is usually made of biological materials (such as corn), and can therefore be considered bio-degradable in most cases.</p>
<p>Whether the filament is 100% bio-degradable (and non-toxic for the surroundings) will depend on ... | <p>I see two problems with your printer: your filament seems to overheat in some areas, and you overextrude a little. My suspicion is, that your heating behavior is not well tuned and it overshoots the target temperature, leading to an overcooked filament, then the temperature drops below the temperature you need, lead... | <h1><strong>Wear Gloves.</strong></h1>
<h3>Returning is impossible</h3>
<p>Resin does not just <em>harden</em>, <a href="https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin">it <strong>polymerizes</strong> into shape from monomers in a chemical reaction.</a> That means to break it d... | <p>4.5 mm is a low retraction distance. Cura's default is 6.5 mm, and the Ender 3 profile provided with Cura sets it to 6 mm. The first thing you should try is increasing the retraction amount up to at least 6 mm. Also, make sure you actually enabled retraction. I saw one question here where a Cura user had enabled "Re... | <p>Anzalone and friends published <a href="https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/6678531/" rel="noreferrer">A Low-Cost Open-Source Metal 3-D Printer</a> in <em>IEEE Access</em>:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>This paper reports on the development of a open-source metal 3-D printer. The metal 3-D printer is controlled with an op... | <p>The print area settings would be in the Preferences > Printers. Select the particular printer on the left side pane, then click the "Machine Settings" button.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/86dAH.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/86dAH.jpg" alt="enter image de... | <blockquote>
<p>Any ideas what to do to prevent this from happening?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>You cannot prevent it entirely, but <strong>you can probably mitigate the problem by depressing the lever that squashes the filament against the hobbed gear of the extruder</strong> before starting to heat the nozzle.</p>
<p>I... |
<p>I have noticed that <a href="http://slic3r.org/" rel="noreferrer">Slic3r</a> offers a speed setting called "<a href="http://slic3r.org/blog/new-stable-1.2.9" rel="noreferrer">auto speed</a>" meant to give a constant filament pressure at the extruder, which I believe could eliminate filament grinding issues at higher... | <p>Auto speed is calculated from maximum volumetric speed in mm<sup>3</sup> per second. If you normally print at 80 mm/s, your extrusion width is 0.5 mm and you are printing 0.2mm high layers, your volumetric speed would be 80 * 0.5 * 0.2 = 8 mm<sup>3</sup>/s, which is the volume of plastic extruded by your printer eve... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I believe the little experiment made by E3D - the same link you provide - answers your question very well. Several points about wear can be found in this article. After printing only 250 grams of ColorFabb XT-CF20 (carbon fiber filament):</p>
<ul>
<li>The nozzle diameter had increased markedly</li>
<li>The inner wa... | <p>I redid the print in order to reply to some questions posed in the answer of @kdtop. The print started but the output was not consistent and sometimes stopped. The temperature is 195°C and sometimes 'drop' to 194°C. First I pushed the new real so that the extruder did not need to pull so much. When this did not solv... | <p>It might seem that common 3D printer materials such as PLA and ABS should be capable of being autoclaved—unfortunately. However, although their melting temperatures are higher than autoclave temperature (typically 121ºC), their glass transition temperatures are below that limit so they can warp or undergo creep defo... | <p>I see that you've already tried <a href="http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Meshmixer - Free Download">Meshmixer</a> and didn't find it helpful, but I wanted to call out <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-create-custom-overhang-supports-in-meshmixer/" rel="nofollow no... | <p>It definitely looks like the temperature is too high</p>
<p>but it can also mean that </p>
<ul>
<li>the speed is too low and/or</li>
<li>the cooling fan is not driven correctly and/or</li>
<li>over extrusion could play a role here</li>
</ul>
<p>this is the scenario with all these issues together</p>
<p>too high ... | <h2>Print/material specific settings</h2>
<p>If you are printing <em><strong>too hot with too less distance</strong></em>, <em><strong>the support just fuses to the print object</strong></em>. Extra cooling, lower print temperature and support distance should be in balance to create easy to remove support structures wi... | <p>Owning the Ultimaker 3 Extended and having printed kilometers of filament on this printer I can tell you that printing with PVA, apart from the slicing problems you mention, is not easy as it looks. PVA clogs up very fast and is very hygroscopic. Moist PVA will make popping sounds on extrusion and is prone to failin... |
<p>I upgraded to an Mk9 dual extruder, and it came with thermocouples installed instead of the thermistors I had before. </p>
<p>No matter what I did with the thermocouples, the indicated temperature jumped around by as much as 30C or more. In short, after several weeks of fiddling I never got the thermocouples to wor... | <p>Thermocouples work by passively generating VERY small voltages via the Seebeck effect -- usually a few tens of millivolts. They're literally just a pair of wires made from two different special alloys, electrically connected together at the "hot" end. That wire junction can be mounted inside whatever kind of attachm... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>While I tried a lot of things to solve this, including tuning temperature, fan, speed, etc., ultimately the single biggest factor that causes or prevents it is the state of Cura's <em>Outer Before Inner Walls</em> (<code>outer_inset_first</code>) option. With outer walls first, I don't have the problem at all. With ... | <p>You can clearly print but there are also some problems it seems.</p>
<p>To see if you're about okay when it comes to leveling, I recommend to activate the 'skirt' in your slicer soft. Slic3r has it and I think most others too, it just makes the printer do a big one-layer all-around 'perimeter' around what is going ... | <h1>Short answer</h1>
<p>Yes</p>
<h1>Long answer</h1>
<h2>Heater bocks</h2>
<p>A heater block is destroyed if one of the following happens</p>
<ul>
<li>Threads stripped</li>
<li>Bent or otherwise deformed</li>
<li>stripped grub screw</li>
</ul>
<p>All of these can happen by handling the block with too much force when s... | <p>Given that the capacitor near the input is quite clearly marked 35 V, a 36 V rating seems questionable.</p>
<p>The (buck) regulator used on the (genuine version of the) board is the <a href="http://www.aosmd.com/res/data_sheets/AOZ1282CI.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AOZ1282CI</a> which supports up to 36... | <p>A tool that you might find useful for experimenting with acceleration is <a href="http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRap Centrals Acceleration Calculator</a> (at the bottom).</p>
<p>By setting an <em>acceleration</em>, <em>length of travel</em> and <em>target speed</em>, you can see:... | <p>It appears the heatbreak of my E3D nozzle had worked itself loose from the heatsink, allowing the nozzle to wobble around a bit. Because the nozzle was still tight against the heatbreak I didn't experience any issues with my hotend, but because the heatbreak was slightly loose the nozzle wasn't properly constrained ... | <p>I've not done much miniatures printing, but I have the same printer and I happen to have the exact same filament loaded. Also, I've been doing a lot of tuning lately, including <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this z-brace mod</a> which has improved my overall print quali... |
<p>I'm considering buying <a href="http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id/783/cPath/1680">this package</a>, the Kossel, as my first 3D printer. </p>
<p>It's not the cheapest model, but apparently a high resolution and stable, which is what I'm after.</p>
<p>The question is, what is the life expecta... | <p>Much like your car, the number of miles, or the number of prints that you can get out of it is entirely up to how well <strong>you</strong> can maintain it.</p>
<p>A 3D Printer is a machine, and a machine needs general maintenance; if you see something starting to break - or get worn out - or anything abnormal, fix... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <h1><a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/pva" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PVA</a></h1>
<p>From experience I can tell that PVA filaments need to be stored with silica beads in a plastic bag or in a specific dry-box. PVA is soluble in water and is very hygroscopic. With moisture it gets soft and swells. My ... | <p>I had the same problem printing a miniature just recently. As always, settings are somewhat dependent from the object you want to print, but here are some suggestions:</p>
<ul>
<li>Increase the support density: 15% (8% is very low!)</li>
<li>Support pattern: zig-zag with "connect zig-zag" option enabled (add stiff... | <p>It's really more about calibration than resolution -- a poorly calibrated printer will have dimension errors that prevent mating with true LEGO bricks or other printed bricks. </p>
<p>Also, "resolution" is an incredibly loaded term for 3d printers, because it can mean a lot of different things. But we don't need to... | <p>Overall, it is unlikely that the problem is temp sensing accuracy. There are only a few things that will throw off the thermocouple's reading:</p>
<ul>
<li>Poor thermal coupling between the tip and the hot block, such as if the tip has partially pulled free of the brass thermowell crimp (this will make the hot bloc... | <p>The great pics really help with the answerability of this question. From how catastrophic the failure is, and how it's clearly independent of any specialty needs for the particular print such as tiny bed-adhesion contacts, sharp overhangs, bridges, etc. this is definitely not a problem with temperature. Different pe... | <p>I stumbled across this forum/group, <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/english-forum-original-prusa-i3-mmu2s-mmu2/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Original Prusa i3 MMU2S & MMU2</a>, amongst all of the other <a href="https://forum.prusaprinters.org" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prusa printers forums</a> on t... | <p>For such a small item and the small load it will carry, even 50 percent is substantial. Keep in mind that one hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger. If you need to know why, consider a 'net search for "why not use 100% infill" for more detailed information. The primary foundation for not using 100% infi... |
<p>How do I determine how much an individual print costs?</p>
<p>I'd like an answer including support material, failed prints, and (ideally) wear and tear / printer maintenance costs.</p>
<p>To clarify, I'm not asking how to <em>predict</em> the cost before printing, but rather how to calculate the actual cost after ... | <p>For <a href="http://3dprintingfromscratch.com/common/types-of-3d-printers-or-3d-printing-technologies-overview/#fdm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FDM</a> printing: </p>
<p>Both Cura and Makerbot Desktop (and perhaps others I'm not as familiar with) will give you a preview of both the length and weight of your print, i... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Yes, this is very broad. That said...</p>
<p>For high detail you want SLA. i.e. jewelry. If you just want a prototype of a mold, you can do a standard FDM style printer (95% of printers are FDM, and that number is a guess)</p>
<p>Really, you should be asking what material you need for your mold, but you can open a... | <p>This tag has been removed from the system and made intrinsic. </p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/untagged">Please cleanup the questions that now have no tags...</a></p>
| <p>Here is a great article on the subject, <a href="https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/how-make-your-own-filament-recycling-old-3d-prints-part-1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How to make your own filament by recycling old 3D prints | Part 1</a>.</p>
<p>At $20/kg for new material, it is going to be hard for recycling to b... | <h1>Laundry list:</h1>
<h2>Open</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/438">e3d</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/436">Creality</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/434">Filled PLA</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Done</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href=... | <h1>Comments</h1>
<blockquote>
<h2>Question in a comment</h2>
<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in... | <p>Here's a brief outline I threw out in chat once. I'm marking this as a "community Wiki" answer so feel free to edit.</p>
<p>It is not a full Primer, so should date better than a Word6.0 manual.</p>
<hr />
<p>Start by reading the instructions that came with your printer. There's a high chance that some as... | <p>My assumptions about PEEK filament price are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Raw material is more expensive. Compare price of <a href="https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/abs-pellet.html" rel="noreferrer">ABS</a> with <a href="https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/peek-pellet.html" rel="noreferrer">PEEK</a> pellets.</li>
<li>Demand is much ... |
<p>I would like to make custom cake molds. </p>
<p>I've asked about this in a few stores that specialize in cooking equipment, they said this wasn't possible. </p>
<p>I wonder if 3D printing makes it possible. It would require a material that is food-safe, as per <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/question... | <p>For <a href="http://3dprintingfromscratch.com/common/types-of-3d-printers-or-3d-printing-technologies-overview/#fdm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FDM</a> printing: </p>
<p>Both Cura and Makerbot Desktop (and perhaps others I'm not as familiar with) will give you a preview of both the length and weight of your print, i... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>The primary issue with long-term exposure of filament to the environment is that it will absorb water moisture from the air. When a filament that has absorbed water is passing though the hot end of a printer, the water will turn to steam and cause problems with extrusion:</p>
<ul>
<li>Small bubbles of steam can for... | <p>For designing your part, especially considering the repetitive mathematics involved, I would consider to learn to use OpenSCAD. I've learned the program and it fits your modeling requirement quite well. I feel it's easy to learn and is somewhat easier for folks who have a programming background. I don't have one, bu... | <p>I moved to a plain glass heated bed with a brush applied acetone and ABS mixture. Using an old emptied nail polish bottle with brush, I added some acetone and then threw in ABS pieces until it reached a brush-able consistency. I then brush it on the glass build plate where I believe the print will occur, and it work... | <p>Because you will be printing on unheated glass, you will be using some form of adhesive material. If you use an off-the-shelf glue stick, you will likely find it is water soluble. If the bed is removable, immersing it in warm water for a relaxing soak will provide easier model removal. </p>
<p>I don't have experien... | <blockquote>
<p>Under what circumstances</p>
</blockquote>
<p>When your part has internal geometry that would be difficult and expensive to reproduce using other methods. For example fishing lures which need internal water channels. Fittings or covers that would normally require several parts to be sealed together coul... | <p>Let's look at various methods:</p>
<h2>Multiple Hotends</h2>
<p>The oldest version and one of the best to print materials at vastly different print temperatures (like printing a cheaper PLA infill into a Polycarbonate shell - the print temperature difference is 60-100 °C) is to have 2 or more hotends. This way als... | <ul>
<li><p>If you are printing with ABS (or PLA), acetone will dissolve it. Simply pour
some on the bed and wipe it off (beware, acetone can damage beds that have a coating or a plastic sheet over them, be sure to test this first).</p>
</li>
<li><p>Heating the bed back up may make the plastic softer and easier to
rem... |
<p>When the print head changes direction, the printer must accelerate and decelerate the print head. When calibrated correctly, the printer is able to do this quickly and without causing the printer to shake too much, without drastically slowing down the print process.</p>
<p>If I set it too high, my printer shakes vi... | <p>A tool that you might find useful for experimenting with acceleration is <a href="http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRap Centrals Acceleration Calculator</a> (at the bottom).</p>
<p>By setting an <em>acceleration</em>, <em>length of travel</em> and <em>target speed</em>, you can see:... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Automatic bed levelling is not magic; it still requires you to level the bed properly (as level as possible). The upside of automatic bed levelling is that it compensates for small deviations like a slightly slanted surface or a (somewhat large) dent in the surface (as long it is probed and can be digitized by the f... | <p>You instruct the printer to move from a certain X-Y position instructed by the previous move, to X=50 and Y=50. While moving at a feedrate of 100 mm/min, it will also retract 10 mm of filament (if the previous extruder distance was 0) during that move. If the movement distance is large, the retraction is slow. If yo... | <blockquote>
<p>One of the things I was told about was that many printers don't necessarily have that crazy precision of 0.05 mm (50 micron). Another person told me something different - he said most of those printers actually were capable of putting out 50 micron layer height. How is it really?</p>
</blockquote>
<p... | <p>So I discovered that the fade height must have been set to something really off.</p>
<p>I didn't know this at the time so I thought I should set the fade height to the default 10 mm just to make sure nothing was wrong and tested it. The printer now levels and compensates perfectly!</p>
| <p>I'll try my hand at it and try to get the ball rolling.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBJNE.png" alt="Been here?"></a></p>
| <p>This tag has been removed from the system and made intrinsic. </p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/untagged">Please cleanup the questions that now have no tags...</a></p>
| <p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8" rel="nofollow">See here</a> for why you <em>shouldn't</em> calibrate your X/Y-steps. The value of 100 is probably better and will give more accurate prints overall than the value you came up with.</p>
<p>When uploading new firmware you generally do not have to p... |
<p>Using a thermoplastic MDF printer with a 0.4mm extruder nozzle, I frequently have trouble with the nozzle getting clogged.</p>
<p>I am not sure what's causing the clog, but my guesses are dust and/or burnt filament (from leaving the hot end on without extruding).</p>
<p>What can I do to prevent, or at least minimi... | <p>Lubricating the filament is the most common solution I've heard of to stop filament jams and clogs. Lubricating makes for a smoother ride through the print head. While you're at it, make sure that the filament is clean. The best way to stop jams from dust is to get rid of the dust in the first place.</p>
<p>Some pe... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>You can test different print settings. Trying to visualize, but I believe you can increase the <strong>perimeter lines</strong>, since there is a hole, this will increase the resistance in that area. Or try to change the <strong>orientation</strong> with which the part will be printed</p>
| <p>The short answer is: <strong>yes, it is always a good idea to print in a well-ventilated area</strong>. The longer answer can be articulated as follows:</p>
<h3>Definition of "fumes"</h3>
<p>"Fumes" is a fuzzy word that from a chemical/physical perspective includes at least three different thing... | <p>In Cura (and Slic3r), you can 100% customize what the printer does before printing your actual model through custom <strong>start/end g-code</strong>.</p>
<p>If you navigate to the <code>Start/End-GCode tab in Cura</code>, then select <code>start.gcode</code>, you can see what operations are run before each print b... | <p>The properties of the maternal are not what changes after you print. It is how you use the material. PLA and ABS prints aren't usually subject to +100 °C after printing.</p>
<p>When PLA absorbs moisture it becomes brittle. PLA filament will break when trying to print. Your PLA print may be thick enough so that b... | <p>There are a number of things to consider:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>Wire Gauge: a typical 40W, 12V heater draws around 3A. 24 AWG or lower would be appropriate (copper wire, CCA will require thicker gauge).</p></li>
<li><p>Insulation: the part of the wire close to the resistor leads might get too hot for conventional PVC ins... | <p>I've had great success printing with HIPS (high-impact polystyrene) as a support for both PLA and ABS. Most sites recommend it for use with ABS because the materials melt at similar temperatures and work best with heated beds, but I've had good luck using it as a support material with PLA on a bed at 60°C. It doesn'... | <p>Changing the <strong>flow rate</strong> during a print can <strong>not</strong> be saved. There simply is no way. It is usually meant to be a fix with filament inconsistencies or to look for the right extrusion factor for a new filament batch.</p>
<h2>Slicer</h2>
<p>The only way to consistently increase the flow rat... |
<p>I've occasionally had issues with excess filament residue getting stuck to the print bed. <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/78/how-can-i-stop-my-print-bed-tape-from-sticking-to-the-filament">There are ways to prevent this</a>, but sometimes even these precautions aren't enough. Over time, resid... | <ul>
<li><p>If you are printing with ABS (or PLA), acetone will dissolve it. Simply pour
some on the bed and wipe it off (beware, acetone can damage beds that have a coating or a plastic sheet over them, be sure to test this first).</p>
</li>
<li><p>Heating the bed back up may make the plastic softer and easier to
rem... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Here's a brief outline I threw out in chat once. I'm marking this as a "community Wiki" answer so feel free to edit.</p>
<p>It is not a full Primer, so should date better than a Word6.0 manual.</p>
<hr />
<p>Start by reading the instructions that came with your printer. There's a high chance that some as... | <p><strong>The first thing to understand is what causes warping</strong>. Warping is caused by the thermal contraction of the plastic when it cools down.</p>
<p>Simplifying things a fair bit, you can visualise the process like this:</p>
<ol>
<li>hot, expanded plastic gets deposited on cooler, shrunk layers,</li>
<li... | <p>The oozing is due to hot-end getting hot before the bed leveling procedure: if you move the hot-end warm up command <strong>after</strong> the <code>G29</code> line you avoid that oozing</p>
<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M140 S{materia... | <p>A few thoughts that might help...</p>
<p><strong>Material:</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>ABS can be vapor smoothed with Acetone which results in the layers sort of "melting" together to form a smoother, and less porous surface.</li>
<li>Other plastics can be smoothed with compatible solvents, but I've not tried solvent sm... | <p><em><strong>Short version:</strong> basically, this depends on your printer, make, model, type, state of maintenance, extruder, slicer settings, belt tension, play, friction, etc.</em></p>
<hr />
<p><em><strong>Long version:</strong></em> Basically your printer determines how accurate it prints; you can influence th... | <p>(Love the question and here is my 2 cents).</p>
<p>Firstly, you want to minimize supports. Even if you have dissolvable supports, you would still want to minimize the usage.</p>
<p>For Example:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LoQCE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LoQCE... | <p>Most commercial blow-molded fuel tanks for model airplane fuel (methanol or ethanol, nitromethane or nitroethane, and some combination of castor, mineral, or synthetic lubricating oil) are made from HDPE. This material isn't commonly seen as filament, in my limited experience, but it ought to be possible to arrive ... |
<p>My thermoplastic FDM printer has a heated bed and uses glass as the printing surface. Sometimes the glass will chip or break entirely when I'm removing my print. This happens most often when the print has a large area in contact with the glass.</p>
<p>What can I do to keep this from happening?</p>
| <p>Some things I've tried that have helped:</p>
<p>Lay down a layer of masking tape. Most people who do this use blue painter's tape. The plastic should stick nicely during printing, yet release reasonably easily when you remove the print from the heated bed.</p>
<p>Lay down a later of Kapton tape. The principle is t... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>No, <strong><em>your problem is not related to slicing</em></strong>, <strong><em>this is a hardware problem</em></strong>. Your complete print has shifted, this is called <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#layer-shifting-or-misalignment" rel="nofollow noreferrer">layer shift<... | <p>You won't need specialized nozzles, you understand the material wrong:</p>
<p>The benefit the properties of this material grant is not super fine prints (which you can get with small nozzles like 0.1 mm already), it is that you can print at super low temperatures. Printing it at standard 200°C will mean, that it wo... | <p>Let's look at the elements and what they do:</p>
<p>The <em>Heater Cartridge</em> (blue) is the device that converts electric to thermal energy to melt the plastic. 30 and 40 W are common.</p>
<p>The <em>Thermosensor</em> (red) is there to give feedback to the mainboard.</p>
<p>The <em>Filament Path</em> (gold) in t... | <p>The first indication for print speed and temperature should be taken from the box the filament comes in. Generally it specifies temperature ranges for the hotend and the heated bed. Sometime, mostly online, more parameters can be found amongst which is the printing speed. </p>
<p>Do note that temperature and printi... | <p>My3dmatter.com performed a <a href="http://my3dmatter.com/influence-infill-layer-height-pattern//influence-infill-layer-height-pattern/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">series of tests</a> with PLA, using "a universal testing machine". They conclude:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>Layer height influences the strength of a printed... | <p>For an easy test, try manually pulling the filament through the U-loop of guide tube. How hard is it to pull through? It should only take 1-2 lbs of tension at most. </p>
<p>Then do a "tug test" on the extruder. Start it loading and grab the filament by hand to try to stop it from extruding. The Replicator 1/2/2x e... | <p>All filament used in 3D printing is thermoplastic filament, so plastic-filament and thermoplastic-filament are redundant.</p>
|
<p>For a science project, I'm 3D-printing some custom pipes and tubes to regulate the flow of gas (a combination of ethyl alcohol and water vapor) through an apparatus. They need to be pretty small, as the entire experiment is designed on a small scale. I'd also like the use a little filament as possible.</p>
<p>How t... | <p>The thinnest wall your printer can print is determined by its nozzle size, and will be a little thicker than that nozzle size.</p>
<p>A great challenge when dealing with thin, hollow cylinders is that the cross-section has very little surface area and it can delaminate easily, especially if the tube is long.</p>
<... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Lack of a heated bed does not necessarily limit you to using PLA. I would say (among those I've used) the material that's least sensitive to whether you have a heated bed is probably TPU. Depending on your model, it can even be hard to print PLA without a heated bed, unless perhaps you're willing to use a brim or ra... | <p>First, convert the given measurements into a sketch...</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ivxIW.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ivxIW.png" alt="Sketched out dimensions" /></a></p>
<h2>G-code shenanigans</h2>
<p>we actually have the printer do circles.. let's plot that out...... | <p>What you encounter there is a combination of Adhesion, Cohesion, and Capillary Force.</p>
<p>Cohesion is what holds the water together. Adhesion is the force to retain water against a wall or hanging from a pen's end, it is proportional to the surface wetted. Capillary Force is the resulting effect where water moves... | <p>The latest version of Ultimaker Cura can do that (version 3.6).</p>
<p>I have built models made of different material in the same model.</p>
<p>How to do this is:</p>
<ol>
<li>Select your CUBE and select the icon "Per Model Setting" in left side menu.</li>
<li>choice "Normal model", select the following settings:... | <p>I've tried to reduce the "Extrusion multiplier" from 1 to 0.95, but that caused gaps. Now I've minimized the clicking by setting the Slic3r option "Infill before perimeters" on the "Print Settings > Infill" page.</p>
| <p>The best way to get rid of them is to change the design of the printed object to make them unnecessary.</p>
<p>Instead of printing the one part with support material, the piece can be split into two or more parts which can be printed without support material and assembled after the printing.</p>
<hr>
<p>Given tha... | <p>3D printers cannot print in the air without a prior layer or a support structure supporting the new printed layer. For the picture showing the bottom of the fruit, the red area is the calculated area that requires support for printing, so please enable that in the slicer application.</p>
<p>For the top picture pleas... |
<p>I often switch my print material, i.e. ABS / PLA / Wood / Flex,</p>
<p>How can I best clean out my extruder between them to ensure I don't contaminate my next print?</p>
| <p>In most cases, removing the old filament from the printer, inserting the new filament in, and running the new filament through the printer for a short period of time will clean the nozzle. The skirt of the print can also be a time during the actual print for the old filament to be flushed. Assuming the skirt is lo... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Everybody's combination of fan hardware and print settings is different. Unless someone else has the exact same printer and slicer profiles as you, there's no way to really say anything like "use X% for PLA" or whatever. For practical purposes, you just empirically figure it out with test prints based on a few simpl... | <p>I have printed kilometers of PETG and found the sweet-spot for my brand to be 240 °C for the hotend and 70 °C for the build plate (for my Ultimaker 3 that is, the extruder temp is 5 °C higher for my home build HyperCube Evolution). The reason for the 70 °C is that the glass temperature of PETG is aro... | <p>There are several things you could try without spending much but even PLA will warp on an unheated bed. I had a Legacy Kossel that I switched to an acrylic bed and had many issues with warping and prints pulling off the bed. </p>
<p>Some cheap things to try would be...</p>
<ol>
<li>Adding a brim to the print.</l... | <p>You can Z-hop what you like, but if it is oozing it is oozing, you will always see the effects of that as it just drops down.</p>
<p>Basically you have <strong>multiple issues</strong>, <strong>first the oozing</strong>, <strong>second the line markings on the top</strong>.</p>
<h1><strong>First</strong></h1>
<p>Ooz... | <p>Playing around with the nozzle height will help: back it off until just before you have first layer adhesion issues. Don't jam the filament into the bed as you might for ABS. This helps with small prints. However, my experience has been that if you have a large enough continuous contact area (i.e. more than a few... | <p>Referring to the table provided in 0scar's answer, the key challenge with high temperature materials is the gap between the glass transition temperature (bed temperature) and the extruder temperature.</p>
<p>Polycarbonate for example is listed as usable up to 121°C, printing on a bed at 80-120°C, but requiring an e... | <p>There is absolutely no reason to use different nozzles, <em>not even if filaments do require different temperatures</em>.</p>
<p>The only exception is when printing abrasive filaments (such as glow-in-the-dark and carbon-fiber) in which case you should use an abrasion-resistant, stainless steel nozzle. This nozzle ... |
<p>After multiple jams from bulging filaments on two spools I'm getting frustrated. One, right before a job was done.</p>
<p>Is there something I can do to prevent these bulges in filaments from ruining jobs?</p>
<p>What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future before it's a disaster?</p>
<p>He's a pic... | <p>How to catch <em>and</em> fix these on the fly? That would be difficult..</p>
<p>But this is an issue you really should not have.</p>
<p><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/84/47">Could it be an issue with filament storage?</a></p>
<p>Or is it coming from the manufacturer with these bulges? If so, I w... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>A masterspool is the practice of printing your own spool out of filament, which will then be used to support your filament you purchase without a spool attached. The main idea is to create a reusable spool and create less waste. </p>
<p>(<em>NOTE: I'm in no way affiliated with MatterHackers.com, nor am I an endorse... | <blockquote>
<p>One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Short answer: "Yes, for some it does".</p>
<hr>
<p>The results from your image are typically seen when the initial layer height for PETG is too small. PETG likes an additional gap o... | <p>Here are some things to look out for when switching to a smaller nozzle size:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Curling</strong> (out of the nozzle): Make sure the nozzle is clear of any debris to avoid the extruded filament from catching and therefore curling around the nozzle.</li>
<li><strong>Warping</strong>: You might expe... | <ul>
<li><p>Polarity matters, sometimes. Be especially mindful of the wires from your power supply to the board, as getting those the wrong way around will definitely cause damage. Heated beds and extruders are not polarity sensitive, and can go in either way. Fans are polarized, but will probably survive if you get th... | <p>You can to print a brim, a thin layer on the bottom connected to the model. This will help hold it in place. Since it is thin (one or two layers) it will not warp itself.</p>
<p>The brim is not the same thing as a raft. A raft is under the model. The brim is on the same layer as the models bottom layer but outside ... | <p>I think the best way to go about this would be to calibrate your printer and slicer as best you can. One of my pet peeves is when people upload STLs that have been adjusted to fit their printer/material. There are many suppliers of material that vary in quality as well as many materials and different printers that... | <p>The solution was a combination of several items. The primary one was slowing down the top layer of the print significantly. I was using 3200 mm/min for the print and used the option 'solid fill underspeed' to slow down the top layers to 40%. I increased the top layers to 7. I also increased the infill, to ensure... |
<p>I am designing a part that has to clamp around a 11mm bushing, and due to other design constraints, it has to be printed with a semicircle-shaped overhang:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcLSm.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LcLSm.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>... | <p>If your printer is printing support material that is too strongly attached, you can increase the space between the support and the part in some slicing softwares. On Cura it is located in the "expert settings" menu (you can open it by pressing Ctrl + E), under the "Support" text. Try fiddling with the "Z distance" s... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Turns out it had to do with the nature of the small holes that I was printing. I had to slow the speed of the initial layer down from 25mm/s to 15mm/s and also set Cura to 'optimize wall printing order' so that it didn't jump back and forth between holes constantly. </p>
<p>I also sped up the travel speed to 50mm/s... | <p><strong>I think this is just an overcomplicated lost-PLA (investment) casting.</strong></p>
<p>What you're asking for is to create an object, create a mold around it, and then burn out the object and replace it with metal. Traditionally this is done with wax, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting"... | <p>If an axis doesn't print the sizes you command it there are basically 2 options causing this.</p>
<ol>
<li>The printer is incorrectly configured,</li>
<li>The printer has an hardware issue.</li>
</ol>
<p>To find out which of the 2 is applicable, you need to look into your setup and into the firmware settings. E.g.... | <p>I have a dual extruder Replicator 1 and having the nozzles at the same height is a must and albeit a bit of a struggle otherwise. At one point, I had to disassemble my extruder head and the nozzles didn't line up quite right. There after, printing with the lower one obviously didn't have any troubles, however, print... | <p>Finally, I solved all faillures today.</p>
<p>-When the bed is too close from the hotend:</p>
<p>I cheat the machine with a cutter patterns board over the bed at the first extruder calibration; the distance increases several times and then You can do it shorter.
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YiAKm.jpg" rel="nof... | <p>I don't know that this can be definitively answered for a specific printer and all arbitrary designs.</p>
<p>The refinement level basically determines how smooth a curved surface will turn out. The STL file format can only express an object in terms of triangular-shaped surfaces, so Fusion 360 will need to approxi... | <p>Here are some things to look out for when switching to a smaller nozzle size:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Curling</strong> (out of the nozzle): Make sure the nozzle is clear of any debris to avoid the extruded filament from catching and therefore curling around the nozzle.</li>
<li><strong>Warping</strong>: You might expe... |
<p>I'm thinking of recycling some filament from a couple of recently failed prints. I can reuse them in the future for basic prototypes, so I'm not concerned with whatever weird mixture of colors come out (they are of a few different colors).</p>
<p>The thing is, I have both PLA and ABS, in small quantities. I origina... | <p>This is not a good idea. Both filaments have different melting points, that of ABS being much higher than that of PLA. To melt the ABS you have to heat the plastic to the point where the PLA starts to degrade.</p>
| Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>Sort of related, see the answers to:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3771/commercially-available-3d-printer-fume-and-ufp-extractor">Commercially available 3D printer fume and UFP extractor</a>, and;</li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-are-th... | <h2>Yes you can!</h2>
<p>To have stronger prints you would have to choose the correct direction of filament deposition paths/traces. This answer demonstrates changing the direction of the filament path in Ultimaker Cura slicer.</p>
<p>To do this, it requires some tinkering of your model and choosing the correct slicer ... | <p>PLA would be a non-starter for outdoor use as it's biodegradable and can breakdown in sunlight. Albeit slowly, but won't be useful for long term project. </p>
<p>ABS would be a good choice for longevity, as it can last in outdoor situations for quite a while. Its glass transition temperature is above 100 degrees ce... | <blockquote>
<p>One thought I had, does PETG need a different clearance between the nozzle and the bed than PLA?</p>
</blockquote>
<p>Short answer: "Yes, for some it does".</p>
<hr>
<p>The results from your image are typically seen when the initial layer height for PETG is too small. PETG likes an additional gap o... | <p>Only certain plastics are safe enough to be used to contain or manipulate food. ABS and PET-G are such materials. The 3d printing process however is not food safe because, it creates crevices in the printed part into which bacteria and other contaminants can cling to. A printed part would need to be coated in a sili... | <p>Many manufactures list their filaments as being food safe, but I would not treat this as "gospel truth". Apparently, the FDA considers PETG to be safe for food contact, but they are probably thinking about injection-moulded and vacuum-formed parts. Unfortunately, an initial search of the FDA's website did not yield ... | <p>Depending on the exact mechanical load and material used to print, you might get away with 100 °C.</p>
<p>Next to the melting temperature required to print the material (which will always be substantially higher than the maximum useable temperature!), you probably also want to have a look at the glass temperat... |
<p>I am operating a laser sintering machine, using polyamide 2200 powder (with a grain size of approximately 50 micrometers). During a print, a lot of powder goes unsintered and can theoretically be reused. However, using purely recycled powder degrades print quality to an unacceptable level.</p>
<p>Mixing a little us... | <p>You'll find generally that mixing 40% new polyamide with 60% recycled polyamide will result in a reasonable finish and part. You will obviously want to use all new for parts requiring the best possible finish and mechanical properties, but this mixture will be very difficult to tell apart from a fully new mixture pa... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>You could experiment with slicing. For example, you might not need high resolution all over the object, but you can speed up some straight parts by using greater layer high there. See a <a href="http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/variable-layer-height">part of Slic3r manual</a> about such thing.</p>
<p>It is also... | <p>A nozzle with a nozzle <strong>width</strong> of 0.3 mm cannot print a 0.3 mm layer <strong>height</strong>. You <em>could</em> do that but you <em>should</em> not as you ultimately pay the price in the form of a less aesthetic finish. The general rule of thumb is to maximize the layer height at 75 % of the nozzle w... | <p>The dividing line of "tangentially off topic" is typically when the <em>actual</em> subject of the question being asked is only <strong><em>coincidentally</em></strong> adjacent to 3D printing. </p>
<p>Here is a <em>clear</em> example illustrating the "tangential issue:"</p>
<blockquote>
<p>I printed a crane mec... | <p>Obviously, your extrusion process is troubled by a lot of pressure. This can be seen from the extensive experiment you conducted with PLA extrusion at different temperatures. Please do note that 230 °C is considered pretty high for PLA! Usually it should be in the range of <a href="https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/3... | <p>(Love the question and here is my 2 cents).</p>
<p>Firstly, you want to minimize supports. Even if you have dissolvable supports, you would still want to minimize the usage.</p>
<p>For Example:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LoQCE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LoQCE... | <p>Ultem 9085, the most common ultem resin used for AM, is a blend of PEI-PC, as seen here <a href="https://www.sabic-ip.com/gepapp/Plastics/servlet/ProductsAndServices/Product/series?sltPrdline=ULTEM&sltPrdseries=Aerospace%20and%20Transportation&search=Search#searchresults" rel="nofollow">https://www.sabic-ip.... | <h1>Printing temperature basics</h1>
<p>Manufacturers generally specify a somewhat wide range of printing temperatures, and what temperature you should actually need can only be determined by trial and error:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>The thermistor in your hotend is not 100 % accurate and may have an offset of a few degrees com... |
<p>Usually it will either will rip the tape, or break the print somehow. Currently using ABS on a taped glass bed with a layer of hairspray for adhesion.</p>
| <p>I moved to a plain glass heated bed with a brush applied acetone and ABS mixture. Using an old emptied nail polish bottle with brush, I added some acetone and then threw in ABS pieces until it reached a brush-able consistency. I then brush it on the glass build plate where I believe the print will occur, and it work... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I found the problem. This model of printer Monoprice Select v2 has bed warping issues so when the bed heated up it would warp severely. I bought a glass bed and all my problems were solved. </p>
| <p>If your printer is printing support material that is too strongly attached, you can increase the space between the support and the part in some slicing softwares. On Cura it is located in the "expert settings" menu (you can open it by pressing Ctrl + E), under the "Support" text. Try fiddling with the "Z distance" s... | <p>The two most important things you can do are:</p>
<ul>
<li>Provide adequate cooling to solidify the plastic quickly</li>
<li>Minimize layer height</li>
</ul>
<p>Cooling is really obvious. You need the plastic to solidify before it has a chance to sag. PLA in particular has to shed a lot of heat before it is fully ... | <p>I have made some learning on mechanical setup and discovered some issues on my printer, there are few:</p>
<ol>
<li>Bed warped, even with glass (thin thickness), making BAL confused with Z-movement over the bed.</li>
<li>Overextrusion making layer oversized in terms of thickness.</li>
<li>Some of missing mechanical... | <p>Lubricating the filament is the most common solution I've heard of to stop filament jams and clogs. Lubricating makes for a smoother ride through the print head. While you're at it, make sure that the filament is clean. The best way to stop jams from dust is to get rid of the dust in the first place.</p>
<p>Some pe... | <h1>Laundry list:</h1>
<h2>Open</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/458/8884">Filled PLA</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/459/8884">Repair vs. Maintenance</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Done</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/456/8884">... | <h1>Laundry list:</h1>
<h2>Open</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/438">e3d</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/436">Creality</a></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/a/434">Filled PLA</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>Done</h2>
<ul>
<li><a href=... |
<p>Let's say I print a part out of ABS and wait for it to cool. I could theoretically do this with several copies of the same printer, modified to use print beds of different compositions.</p>
<p>Will the material a bed is made out of affect how long it takes a part to cool?</p>
| <p><strong>What bed material cools faster?</strong></p>
<p>I found an <a href="http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html">extensive list</a> which relates various materials to their <em>thermal conductivity</em>, k [W/mK]; the lower thermal conductivity, the better the material insulates, and t... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>I've looked into doing something similar to this before and love the idea, never had the chance to follow through on it yet. This is sort of a hybrid method between cast molding and 3D printing. </p>
<p>The accepted answer to a question I had a while back had some very good points by fred_dot_u</p>
<p><a href="ht... | <p>Let's look at the elements and what they do:</p>
<p>The <em>Heater Cartridge</em> (blue) is the device that converts electric to thermal energy to melt the plastic. 30 and 40 W are common.</p>
<p>The <em>Thermosensor</em> (red) is there to give feedback to the mainboard.</p>
<p>The <em>Filament Path</em> (gold) in t... | <h2>First; find a model!</h2>
<p>To print something you require a <strong>model</strong> (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a> and <a href="https://www.myminifactory.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MyMiniFactory</a> for e... | <p>The travel speed of 160 mm/s is a big red flag. PETG is not tolerant of a hot nozzle moving over it at high speeds, especially unretracted (combing). The nozzle will drag material in a stuttering pattern, every so often, marring the surface and pulling what it dug up into strings.</p>
<p>Lower the travel speed to t... | <p>The demo files are gcode files generated for use with the sample PLA that comes with the printer. If you want to print it with ABS select the file and set the temperature manually afterwards. </p>
| <p>Run some cleaning filament through the extruder at the printing temperature of your PVA or ABS filament, whichever is greater, until the old stuff has been completely displaced. Then load the new filament until the cleaning filament has been completely displaced.</p>
<p>This should be done every time you are switch... | <p>ABS dissolves in acetone, you could try clipping a small section and leave it in some acetone for a few minutes and if it begins to dissolve it's safe to assume that it's ABS, if not then you'll know that it's not.</p>
<p>This won't confirm that it is PLA, only whether it's ABS or not.</p>
|
<p>Why do we have two standard filament sizes, 1.75 mm and 3 mm? Does it really make a difference when printing? Or is the 1.75 mm just for smaller printers?</p>
<p>In what situations should I be using 1.75 mm?</p>
<p>When should I be using 3 mm?</p>
| <p>There's no appreciable difference. Just use the filament that fits your particular printer.</p>
<p>If you don't yet have a printer, then I'd get one that uses 1.75 mm filament:</p>
<ul>
<li><p>1.75 mm is increasingly becoming the "standard", thus being easier to get. Some filaments are not available as 3... | Given a question paragraph at StackExchange, retrieve a question duplicated paragraph | <p>It is definitively possible to do what you want, but your questions are samewhat problematic:</p>
<blockquote>
<p>So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>"hard enough" is a mysterious quantity. What is the intended application? The load of ... | <p>This depends on the nozzle diameter, the layer thickness, and the material. </p>
<p>I've made very good M8 and acceptable M6 threads (nut and bolt) at 0.2mm layers with a 0.5mm nozzle, out of ABS, and also out of PETG. </p>
| <p>What is happening here is that Cura is struggling with the quantised extrusion width. This behaviour can be improved in the slicer, they have a issue tracked here <a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303</a> and 2.4 beta has impro... | <p>It could be that cheap filament has inconsistent diameter, or your calibration is over extruding, or you have something loose that needs to be tight. It's hard for me to tell precisely from just these images. In your shoes, I would print 20mm x 20mm x 10mm, 100% infill boxes until I got it dialed in so that it is ... | <p>As I understand it, there's really no good reason for this except "momentum". At some point in the not too distant past, a Bowden extruder was seen as an "upgrade" over direct drive, which required a bulky toolhead that was seen as limiting speeds.</p>
<p>(This perception was at best accurate onl... | <p>The biggest effect I've see on resolution is due to plastic stress due to thermal gradients.</p>
<p>The higher resolution prints build up more layers of material, and each layer has a cumulative effect on thermal stress. The upper layers pulling up more as they cool, and the lower layers curling up more strongly a... | <p>I'm not sure I am reading your post correctly, but if you are doing a batch of small prints, I would recommend to <strong>space them enough so as each of them has its own mini-raft, rather than all of them sharing the same large one</strong>.</p>
<p>If you are using cura, you can tweak how much the raft goes past t... |
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