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| {: drill rod and then drilled the end plates and built the frame. Little bit of lapping compound got everything running smoothly. Cleaned that out, greased it up, welded a plate top and bottom and added a 1/4\} |
| {: wide, so realistically you can emboss a sheet 6.5\} |
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| {:check with a qualified plumber to make sure these wipes are safe for YOUR old ass sewer pipes, retard\} |
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| {:whore stories\deals gone bad\Process\} |
| {:storage unit on the street\} |
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| {:too cold to even turn the system on, couldn't risk damaging it\" it was 50 degrees that day doesn't notice that the freon line inside the house has been cut, even though he flagged several other issues with the ceiling in the basement right near it ends up costing me $1500, my agent says there's no way he could have possibly checked it and I should be lucky an AC repair isn't more expensive after a lot of yelling at people, my home warranty eventually reverses their determination and covers the whole thing out of a \ after I give them even more money. I'm finding a male agent ext time, fuck women."} |
| {"text":"My realtor tried to hook me up with her daughter and I should have accepted because she's a model now |
| textI see most brands make two types of SDS drill, but why? what's the difference between a hammer drill and a rotary hammer? what's the difference between these two types, is it just the power? does the first one do the same thing as the second? |
| textleft: 2,6 joule hammering power right: 2,1 joule hammering power size and price isnt all, i got the left and it does my jobs with some to spare. for drain pipe i have used it up to 35mm in thick concrete, takes a battery but its more powerull than your dads old 220v. for car repairs it eats through spot welds like they wherent there. right might have dust retrieval or something i couldnt find thoose specs easily. |
| textThe mechanism in them defines the primary function This video explains it perfectly. Both the drills OP pictured are Rotary Hammers. This is not a question of a Hammer Drill, using a serrated gear to drive the chuck back and forth vs an actual Rotary Hammer, potentially using an electro pneumatic mechanism. As far as the two drills go, both if I’m not mistaken are actual rotary hammers with an actual rotary hammer mechanism. Some rotary hammers use an inline design, like the Bosch Bulldog drills, and some use an angled (90 degree, although not actually 90 degrees, mechanism), like the design that Hilti became famous for. Whether there is actually an advantage to either design other than preferred ergonomics, I am unsure. Most major rotary hammer manufacturers use the inline mechanism for smaller less expensive rotary hammers, then switch to the design where the motor is at an angle to the drill arbor once you get to rotary hammers meant for larger work, maybe from 5/8” up to 1-1/2” inch solid core drilling, then the manufacturers switch back to a linear design once you get to hand held demolition drilling and breaking sizes. I’ve always presumed the reason for the different designs once patents ran out was ergonomics and overall length, with the angled motor design allowing a few inches to be eliminated from the length for larger drilling that might have to be done in confined spaces. Once the drill gets too large though, their is likely no point to using a rotary hammer though, so the angle design for a hammering mechanism gets ditched. |
| textI got an impact drill because my other one was so shitty. But at the same time i mostly use it to drill 3d prints so its kind of overkill. |
| textIf the right one drills poorly, why yhe fuck does it come with quick switch? Whats the point in attatching a normal drill chuck to it then? |
| textWell it drills , just not as good. Its a multi function, people want that. top rpm is lower and the gearbox is single speed(albeit adjustable),torque is lower(i believe). Some materials for drilling want fast speeds and high pressure, things rotary hammer cant provide. But it can do hammering. Rotary hammer does wonders in drilling concrete because it hammers but is only ok in other materials. Perhaps true as far as i can tell from the parts diagrams for these two machines. They both hammer just in a different form factor and the mechanism is for hammering in both despite the different design. one is lighter duty tho. But that doesn't change the fact that the video in itself is correct. The differences usually are in the mechanism and the primary use for it."} |
| {"text":"i looked into it a few years ago when i still had the gumption to wageslave. its basically just being a temp except everyone hates you 24/7. and if you get sent to a big union plant in the rust belt you can expect to be at minimum screamed at by 50 yo manchildren on the picketline. and about 50/50 whether youll get the windows broken out of your car and dogshit dumped in or even physically assaulted. if its bad the temp agency will bus you in though mostly its just mindnumbing production work for half again the pay plus maybe ot if youre not getting 1099 ratfucked jewed. read the fineprint on the contract"} |
| {"text":"I'm milling some holes into the faceplate of an instrument enclosure and it's 'foaming up' as the mill is making passes. Pretty sure it's some kind of aluminum. I'm re-running the program to clean it up but still the foamed metal is bulging out over the edges and making cleanup a real pain. Is this something I can fix with a different feed and speed or is it just shitty aluminum?"} |
| {"text":"machine? cutter? rpm? feedrate? finish cut?"} |
| {"text":"i hate 304. and its inconsistent as hell. somebody told me the extra machineable carpenter steel version was just tight input controlled melt. but i digress precision twist brand cobalt drills are ok. nachi cobalt are the goat im pretty conservative on 304. id probably start at 600-650 rpm and .003 feed w/.062 peck and play from there. if you dont have flood get a bottle of molydee or sulphurized oil and brush the tip evey peck. +25% on everything if you have flood @10-12% concentration get 2 or 3 drills and swap them out every 5 holes or so because the heat just builds in them"} |
| {"text":"Diy tabletop cnc, 1/8 2 flute HSS end mill, don't know manually adjusted, 5in/min, none. |
| textI have a fair bit of experience with meshslop. At 20 miles, you have to actually do best practices, you need a hill, your other end needs a hill, you need fresnel clearance, at minimum 3 meters between the base of your antenna and the ground or any other object. You need perfect line of sight with up to 40 metres of fresnel clearance towards the middle of the span. 1w is ok for a portable node you walk around with, that unit is shit for a router node. Sadly I wish there was a clear answer at the moment but the market is still pretty schizo about 1-2w gear. The single most important thing before anything is is altitude and fresnel clearances, the next important thing is your antenna, the third import thing is a LNA, the fourth is your transmit power. Like I have a node on a mountain, it is mounted on a tower and has a fairly inexpensive $500 antenna and an amplified node and produces like 12.6w eirp (idgaf). it's cool and all but like nothing else can reply back, occasionally ill run across someone posting about seeing it in like a different region's discord like 300km away and it's kinda funny to me. Like I'm not saying don't get it, but it's also out of stock at the moment for miles users. It generally isn't going to do much more than a heltec lora32 v4 you can get for half the cost."} |
| {"text":"1W I was under the impression LoRa used milliwatts if not microwatts. Is this a thing you can do with a ham license?"} |
| {"text":"He was rescued by a CCG boat out of Port Hardy. If I remember correctly other assets were called out: a plane from 442 Squadron (Comox) was dispatched and I think a commercial vessel transiting off Cape Scott diverted but was not needed. The boater was out of his league for boat size and the time of the year. He did not have marine VHF."} |
| {"text":"I believe he’s using a idgaf license."} |
| {"text":"It's ism band, you are allowed up to 1w conducted and 4w eirp. Though there are some psd limitations and antenna rules that limit you to less in almost all sòytastic bands but no one abides by that. |
| textRecently I've been seeing these \"overly meticulous and pedantic\" home inspectors popping up on YouTube, namely this guy and his copycats. They claim to be \"exposing corruption in the housing industry\" but as others have pointed out, it's all part of the marketing. What do you think? |
| textSo in your country, the guy who installs the roof also owns the cement truck? He makes the cabinets? |
| textdoesn't work like that for a licensed contractor... Sure it does lmao. As long as you're on good terms with family/friends. Obviously, if you ruin something they could still sue your ass. Not sure how it works with bond/insurance if there's no paper trail, though."} |
| {"text":"Honestly I'm glad I saw this and would want to hire them or a better inspector than I had when I bought my house |
| textI'm in San Jose, CA and I've worked with guys and we did under house foundation repair and pouring cement, to bathroom tile, framing including complex new skylights through existing roof, siding, and one guy would make copy of rotted french doors in one day, from lumber, on the lawn, with table-saw, router and biscuit tool. |
| textwhat the fuck are you asking? |
| texttell me how do I tie my hands behind my back that won't untie, this is the only place I can find real answers so go ahead"} |
| {"text":"the detectives aren't going to believe that you're a victim, anon"} |
| {"text":"you tie them keeping them in front then slip them under your butt it needs flexibility tying hands is easy i want to learn to tie my elbows"} |
| {"text":"when I took Security Guard handcuff training they showed us this real trick way to use a length of rope to make handcuffs, but it was hard to remember I'm sure its on youtube somewhere. |
| textSimple you tie them around your neck too if you struggle to much you run out of breath.>:) |
| textJust buy a pair of handcuffs off amazon |
| textIs 6 gauge welded wire fencing enough to keep black bears and coyotes out of a kennel built for puppies? I don't want to go electric for perimeter fencing."} |
| {"text":"bears Electric fences do jack fucking shit to bears."} |
| {"text":"capacitor issue"} |
| {"text":"Electric fences do jack fucking shit to bears but a 200gr nosler partition applied at 2900fps from any practical range will fuck jacks shit up and cease all the pik a nik basket snatching for yogi and boo boo"} |
| {"text":"nosler what maintains 2/3rds of original weight after fired huh, i do not think i care about weight, m/2*v^2"} |
| {"text":"Now add in fence posts, wire, permits, and survey The cost of those things are irrelevant to the comparison since you'd be doing those things regardless of whether or not the fence you're putting in was electrified."} |
| {"text":"3x the price of their competitor brands specialise in powered tools I don't get it, surely they can't be that good?"} |
| {"text":"Festool originated the modular lick together tool box system for power tools. Originally the Tanos Systainer system was just meant ad a reusable box system got transporting tools and accessories to tool dealers, with the boxes intended to be shipped back to Festool once the dealer received the shipment. Dealers allegedly started not sending the boxes back, because they gound the boxes useful, so Festool spun that off as Tanos, and started advertising the box system as well as selling the modular box system to other tool brands such as Black & Decker for the Dewalt and Elu brands, with other brands such as Mafell and Metabo and Makita also using Systainers at one point, or at least offering them as an aftermarket accessory. Festool used ABS plastic, maybe due yo cost. A number of other manufacturers now making modular tool box systems use different plastics that may be more impact resistant."} |
| {"text":"this is why festool holds the bit inside the gear shaft Festool could have made the Festool Centrotec System compatible with other quick change systems simply by driving a hex broach down the center. They chose not to to keep the system proprietary, even they making the system compatible would have cost little extra in effort. Festool also literally couldn’t or wouldn’t properly explain the proprietary and non compatibility of the system, which is something they have a habit of. The Centrotec keyless chucks are also plastic shit, They may work, but basic Milwaukee cordless drills that cost 1/3 the amount were being sold with far better drill chucks. There were also alternative systems that Festool could have piggybacked onto, made by manufacturers like Wiha. (Who already makes accessories for Festool). Festool just decided to make non-compatible accessories."} |
| {"text":"oh nononono, you mean it doesnt fit my 30ct ali express hssCO hex drill bits. I need to spend on quality to get quality? NANI??? The Festool Centrotec system is not compatible with standard US made 1/4” Hex quick change systems, that were around before Festool introduced they Centrotec system. The Festool system is not compatible with Japanese made quick change systems. The Festool system is not compatible with the Wiha Driv-Loc system, or System VI system, or the Wera Vario system, all three of which use 6mm hex blades. The Festool Centrotec system is not compatible with any of the three Stanly North Brothers Yankee bit standards, which have been around for almost 100 fucking years, and which also use round fucking shanks. The Festool Centrotec system is not compatible with the 5/16 inch hex bit standard, or the 1/4 square or 5/16 square shank industrial bit standards."} |
| {"text":"The Centrotec keyless chucks are also plastic shit, the \"chuck\" is just the axial retainer you collosal dumb fuck obviously the regular chuck can hold any hex bit, but unlike the competition it doesnt have 2 millimeters wobble"} |
| {"text":"Fein and Bosch worked together to design and standardize on an oscillating blade standard, and may have worked on dome other mounting standards as well. Fein also manufactures the oscillating tool Festool sells. Fein mostly decided to focus on metalworking, and removed themselves from the woodworking market, other than a cordless jigsaw and basic drills and the oscillating tools and vacuums. Fein may still be making motors and components for Trumpf and Draco."} |
| {"text":"SQTDDTOT Last one hit bump limit"} |
| {"text":"I think this is supposed to send out a signal to call the phone when the switchboard goes off and it’s not working. Help please. What is this? Does anyone have any familiarity with working with something like this?"} |
| {"text":"Is there a good website for obscure things? I'm looking for a Jiayin JPYC-2 solenoid pump. Those are easy enough to find, but the one I need is DC22v where everything I see online is AC. |
| textAnyone know where i can get Haynes manuals as pdf? Im looking for the ( Chinese, Taiwanese &Korean 125cc motorcycles, Haynes repair manual: revised 2015) we are working on his Chineseium lexmoto we need wiring diagram. |
| textrelay |
| textI didn't do much on the panel side for fire alarms (mostly hung devices for those and did some programming on a few burg systems). We're not going to know much without knowing what's wired into it. Is it tied into the bell circuit? Stab in the dark it's for a remote booster. Say your main panel only has enough oomph to drive two floors worth of strobes and horns. You're at the limit for your wire runs and the draw from the panel but you've got a third floor that needs notification devices too. You install a remote booster so you've got power closer to that third floor and run that floor's notification circuits from it. A wire from the main panel goes to booster so, when the main panel is in alarm, the bells and whistles from the booster panel go off too. Just my guess anyway. |
| text3d printing was supposed to be eventually in everyone's home. What happened?"} |
| {"text":"Anyone remember 10+ years ago when the hype was so crazy that people were imagining that even microchips could be printed, and the stock price for DDD mooned then crashed hard? lol To be fair, a huge number of “predicted common future technologies” wind up getting overhyped, then don’t live up yo expectations, then get mostly rejected, before eventually actually becoming common, but possibly in a slightly different form than expected, and way later than expected. “Robots” for washing dishes, and clothes essentially exist in the majority of homes, just in the form of a “magic box” that you put the clothes or dishes in, that can automatically dispense detergent, and tun a number of separate cycles, with clean dishes or clothes coming out of the box at the end. This is just different than a humanoid robot washing the dishes in a sink like in the Jetsons. Being able to print photographic quality prints from a box at home, in minutes is also possible nowadays, as is reading a huge library of books of of a thin tablet no thicker, and in many cases thinner than an Ancient Greek or Roman writing tablet made from wax coated wood or slate. Those tablets can also replay events as video, or show realistic colored photographs. Cricut machines can cut out doilies, and print stuff to programs one can download. Single piece molded ultra shock absorbing shoes now exist. Electric cars that are actually somewhat functional for daily commuting exist. (As predicted in the Watchmen comic) Ships with rail guns supposedly may exist. Machines that can run learning programs for children exist, and are basically ultra common, and sometimes more intelligent than university professors. 3D printing exists, it just needs major industry to get the quality up, and the price down, and then to figure out how to at least semi regulate the technology and make money off of it."} |
| {"text":"Is there a specific deadline on \"eventually\"? Each year more and more people have them. When television came out, adoption was slow but eventually everyone had one. It's crazy how modern culture demands everything happen instantaneously or it's considered a failure. It took almost a century for TVs to actually become common enough that most houses actually had a TV let alone multiple TVs. I’m fairly certain that plenty of people who wanted a TV but who were too broke to afford a TV still existed into the 1980s or 1990s, and it took till about a decade or so ago for TVs to be so affordable and common that perfectly usable TVs would put out on the curb by someone who just upgraded their TV size by a foot or more. Milton Berle appeared on a TV broadcast in 1929, when he was actually a somewhat known star of stage and radio, so it was actually 50 years or more before he recounted on some talk show about appearing on TV when it was some still ultra obscure technology."} |
| {"text":"regulate it Begone"} |
| {"text":"What happen is the prints are ugly. Most people would be better off with a resin 3d printer for their figurines. Theres only niche uses for it for prototyping or edge cases."} |
| {"text":"Btw the argument for ghost guns is kind of silly because at the end of the day the barrel is the thing that takes most of the pressure. Hard wood is superior in some ways to the strongest filaments."} |
| {"text":"What does /diy/ know about insulation a crawlspace? I live in the south and bought this house in the fall, didn't have to touch the A/C for heating or cooling till like December and my power bill more then fucking doubled. I do know the crawlspace is uninsulated, but it has those vents so its \. I read that spray foam is the easiest to install but might be bad long term because it can trap moisture, but I fucking hate dealing with fiberglass. Would it be a good idea to spray foam in places unlikely to see moisture? The house was designed so all the plumbing is in one small area. So maybe just do fiberglass around there and foam the rest? |
| textbut the type of heating system you have is far more important. I'm thinking your RE Agent fucked you in the ass and there is something seriously wrong with your system and its basically pumping $100 bills into your neighborhood and you are \"heating every house on the block except your own\". Please post details of RE sale and agent's lack of input on your Heating in this thread. Ditto on the Thermal Cam. I had a SEEK Thermal plug into smart phone and it was amazing (got stolen with backpack). Best outdoor etc thingy ever. Its like being The Predator. I think any RE Sale needs to include a Thermal scan of house in relation to outside temps to gauge future HVAC bill. Just make the temps as different as possible and AI should be able to sus out the rest. I'd go with Rock, if fiberglass gets wet it can create a weird cycle where the wet causes cooling and the cooling in turn grabs water by lower Dew Point, so it stays wet until it rots your joists. BTW, WTF can be easily and cheaply sprayed on raw wood framing to prevent rot, mold and termites, that isn't too toxic and wont be a big shit deal if I have to sell the house and some Inspector eyeballs it? |
| textwtf can I spray Borate. Bora-Care or something like that, preferably with a mold treatment. It's mostly water, so as long as you saturate the lumber, it'll wick deep into the core of the wood. |
| textI need to re-stump my place like this, but have limited space to crawl around under there and the water level in the wet season is about 1ft/ 300mm deep so any concrete foundation i dig will attrack water to sit under them, anyone got anyvadvice? |
| text\, beams laid on ground, like PT 4x6. I'm thinking wouldn't be Code but if they were connected and made rectangle or had angle braces from joist it could be OK and they would stay put. Then some sort of jack to adjust them tight to house if they start to dig in. |
| textBora-Care looks good, seems like should almost be a Code in lots of places. |
| textHedonismbot disapproves |
| textOK, so when I was thinking of using both my discrete components motor controller design parts I already made and then also separately implementing the integrated half bridge IC design going forward, it hit me that the 8v- and arduino gnd tie together on the half bridge IC by necessity but this ruined their intended isolation I needed for my discrete components motor controller design particularly for the lowside switching portion of that schematic. On the lowside switching portion, the little mosfet has 12v- and arduino gnd tied to its source pin. If on the integrated half bridge I also have to tie arduino gnd and 8v-, then that means 12v- and 8v- and arduino gnd are all tied together always. That completely ruined the necessary isolation between arduino gnd/12v- and 8v- that I had intended to be in place for my lowside switch setup. So that was bug #1 freshly introduced that I would then need to solve for in my discrete components motor controller design. When studying this out on the discrete components motor controller design, another error hit me: when any lowside switch turned on in the design, the 12v- dedicated power supply gnd and the 8v- motor supply gnd become connected as long as that lowside switch is on. Since every lowside switch had always access to 8v gnd on its source pin, then even one moment of 12v gnd and 8v gnd attachment anywhere on the robot would cause every lowside switch in the entire robot to immediately turn on at the same time. |
| textSo if any turned on, then all turned on. This was a huge oversight. For some reason since I only designed and focused on one half bridge conceptually at a time, I did not consider the effects one half bridge has on its neighboring half bridges. This just never occurred to me. I guess conceptually I envisioned that every half bridge had its own personal 12v ground from its own personal 12v supply that was electrically isolated from the entire rest of the robot. But of course that's not practical even if it is technically possible. So in testing, things did work, but would have failed as soon as I tried to test more than one half bridge at a time. So I caught this bug before testing revealed it. I discussed this horrible situation with chatgpt and it taught me that in a complex system like a robot, grounds of all your different supply rail voltages cannot be relied on to be isolated from one another like I was treating it. Even if at times they were momentarily, one switch, one change and suddenly they are not and it all becomes a common system ground again. So if I can't safely assume a ground for any given voltage is safely disconnected from the grounds of other voltages, I should not rely on switching on and off access to any particular ground to any of my lowside switches. Instead, I should be shorting the gate driver of the lowside switches to ground to shut them off rather than messing with their source pin's ground connections like I was before. I am to leave the source pin's ground connection as 12v- and its gate connection as 12v+ at all times except when I want to shut it off - at which point I short the gate pin to gnd using my logic level mosfet to do so. |
| textThe fix was very straightforward and minor: I just had to add a 100ohm resistor in series with the gate pin of my big power mosfet lowside switch and then reroute my little mosfet a09t drain pin to the big lowside mosfet's gate pin instead of its source pin. The connection to its gate pin must be downstream of that 100 ohm series resistor so that the path from the big mosfet's gate pin has almost zero resistance when traveling through the little mosfet's drain line and over to its source line into ground. This way when you turn on the little mosfet, the big mosfet's internal capacitor quickly empties out, flushing into the path to ground created by the little mosfet and that discharges the big mosfet, shutting it off. When you want it back on, you shut the little mosfet off, which allows the big mosfet's internal capacitor to charge up again, which turns the big mosfet back on. So the setup now acts like a normally on relay. Note: the resistor on the drain line of the little mosfet that we used to have when it fed into the source line previously is now removed. We want no resistance on there because that would impede the little mosfet's ability to discharge the big mosfet's internal capacitor in a timely manner. We want to be able to not only discharge that capacitor quickly but also direct all incoming current from the 12v+ line that makes it past the 100ohm resistor heading for that big mosfet's gate into our ground path. This rapid redirect flushes so much of that already limited current that hardly any can make it inside the gate of the big mosfet which causes the gate of the big mosfet's voltage to approach near zero volts. So it's called a \ path to ground. Attached is a photo of my schematic before and after the fix. |
| textAttached is a photo of full updated schematic with the changes in place. That all having been said, this discrete components original bldc motor controller design, now fixed, is worth keeping archived, but is now basically abandoned now that I have access to the time, money, and space saving shortcut of my integrated half bridge IC based design. It's kind of sad to abandon something I spent so much time on, but who knows, I may still use it if I ever come across a motor that I can't find a cheap half bridge integrated IC for in the future. It's a great schematic to have at the ready for that scenario."} |
| {"text":"When is OP gonna post results?"} |
| {"text":"I'm going to assume that the recipient does not know about your plans in advance, or are at least playing along and feigning ignorance for purposes of mutual sexual gratification. Your options are to modify the fabric, the stitching/adhesive, or the buckles/fasteners, if there are any. Fabric: Could try making one out of paper. You'll have to find something that is robust enough to stitch or glue but that loses strength when wet. Paper clothes were a thing back in the Sixties, might be worth looking into. Supposedly the material felt kind of like suede or doeskin. Alternatively, there is a material called vilene that dissovles in water. It looks like white tissue paper, but feels like fabric. It might work if you layered it. I have no ideas on stitching, catgut (surgical thread) takes too long to dissolve and I don't know of any other thread materials that would dissolve at all. Glue would be easy to replace with something water-soluble that is still flexible. I don't know if there are swimsuit styles that use adhesive rather than stitching, but that might be something else to look into. Buckles/fasteners... call me crazy but you might be able to use molded pasta or starch for this. You know those biodegradable straws? Something like that would lose strength in short order, but not immediately. An alternative approach: buy a very sheer swimsuit (the more see-through the better) and coat it with something that makes it appear opaque when dry. Or find one that looks solid when dry but sheer when wet. You can look up some very nice pics of Julia Fox that demonstarte what I'm talking about. Honestly, if you're just trying to find a way to indulge you or your wife's exhibitionist streak, you might want to just get her a Wicked Weasel bikini and one of those semi-sheer beach robes. |
| textHere’s what I don’t get: if they are so smart, why can’t they get a proper haircut? It’s like that superhero dr Manhattan, if he’s so alll-powerful, how come he can’t erase that atom symbol from his forehead, shrink down to a reasonable size and materialize a tracksuit so he’s not naked. Maybe he did, and it was made out of dissolving thread and it’s gone now after he went swimming. |
| textwhy can’t they get a proper haircut? All 4 have a proper haircut. What they don't have is a stylist spending an hour doing their hair and then the photography assistant spending a few hours in photoshop making sure the picture looks perfect."} |
| {"text":"300k salary yeah you wish"} |
| {"text":"Every time i buy a new tool i get a small rush of happiness but it is fleeting. Then shortly after i start looking for the next tool to buy. How do i overcome this? I really don't need any more tools at this point. |
| textI'm not quite to this point yet, but I have been given quite a bit of stuff over the years. I think most people are just glad it's not getting scrapped or re-sold... |
| textI want to make a giant jigsaw puzzle with pieces being around 6 inches to 3 inches square. How can I do this with a jigsaw, drill, and miter saw? |
| textchoose puzzle image open in a design software expand to desired size apply jigsaw overlay number all the pieces print in sections cut out pieces |
| textThat soulless slop |
| textsoulless slop for a soulless /r/ |
| textIf you were going to build your own, what would you do differently from what you've done with work?"} |
| {"text":"Not the anon you replied to but a few things I'd do for building my own home is frame the whole house 2 x 6 redwood, I don't care how much it costs. Conduit runs instead of romex, all copper pipes no PEX microplastic shit. Metal roof. And plyboard on every single interior wall before drywall goes up, for shear strength, better sound isolation, and so I can hang anything on any wall without needing to find a stud"} |
| {"text":"New place has a 27' X 40' foundation, with power, and plumbed w water and septic. Currently has a shitty shit I'm using to store wood on. And what's left of my Observatory. I think they used to keep a fifth wheel on there judging from the ruts they left in the lawn last year. Have always wanted to do my own timberframe in a hammerbeam design ~1500 sqft It's near a property line but I'm not sure what offsets are allowed. There's already a building west of it that is about 4 ft from the property line so I'm assuming that's the allowable limit |
| textHas a couple of apple trees off to one side and the other side by the fence has a nice plum trees I don't want to get rid of."} |
| {"text":"that's all good except the copper>pex I RO my drinking water, simple as. pex is just fantastic in every other way |
| textLost your marbles? Make some! |
| textlooks like a piece of wagyu beef |
| textPretty ebin |
| textThat's right, the rolling process introduces a bit of mixing at the surface which muddles the colors"} |
| {"text":"Meant to post this one"} |
| {"text":"if you fire them at cone 018 it will keep most of the gloss (unlike higher cones) and will make them more durable."} |
| {"text":"Who is the true king od the middle shelf?"} |
| {"text":"got a yato ratchet set, it's pretty decent. my cordless shop vac is from einhell, also got their energy station. I'm happy with that stuff"} |
| {"text":"In America AEG gives you free batteries for life if you register your cordless tools But it’s got like 10% of the selection of the EU"} |
| {"text":"There's a comparison between Parkside performance and Milwaukee impact drivers on yt; mil won on high torque. Guess the key there was the corded part. |
| texttotal |
| textVevor. |
| textShow us a pic of your workbench/workstation where the magic happens. What kind of surface is your workbench? What kind of desk? etc. |
| textI hate even talking about it, but that'll probably resolve itself in a few more years, they're already 79/80. |
| texthow do you make your own i need some |
| textwas feeling aimless and overwhelmed by the shitheap so spent an hour reclaiming a little benchtop visibility* *crap displaced jammed in other places not pictured |
| textdoes everything on the bench need to be on the bench |
| textwhen a solution is near or at saturation slight environmental deviations will result in a physical precipitation to occur |
| textive used two big ass wrenches, some WD40 and me jacked friend it dont move, help bros |
| textCaustic soda to dissolve the aluminium |
| textIf you have the frame stripped down, the common tactic is to stick the tool (BBT-22 etc) in a vise, then put the frame/bb on that. This way you're using the frame for leverage. With Shimano units the spindle typically has a thru hole, so you can stick an old qr etc through the tool, through the spindle. Don't have it all the way tight, it's there so you don't slip off the tool when you're reefing on it. Don't put both hands on one spot, spread out and have your dominant hand pulling, your off hand pushing/stabilizing. Also look at your tool. Only the very tips of the splines engage, and they're easily deformed. You can run it against a belt sander, grind off maybe 1mm? You can do that a couple of times before you have to get a new one. This one's been ground before, but you can see how the corners get fucked up. |
| textEver heard of heat guns? |
| textFormer cycling Pro here. Be sure you are rotating it in the correct direction they come off counterclockwise on the drive side, clockwise on the non Drive side. You can also try heating up the metal of the frame around it with a heat gun not a propane torch. If it still doesn't come, then one thing you can do is you put the bottom bracket tool into a vise standing upright and then use the longer lever moment on the frame to unscrew the cup"} |
| {"text":"this is 100% the problem and it's fucking hilarious I always attempt tightening something if I can't loosen it can help break a seize maybe i'm retarded and it's supposed to go clockwise"} |
| {"text":"What do you guys know about chemical metal etching?"} |
| {"text":"You'll put your eye out |
| textI think chrisfix on jewtoob did a video on how to chemically etch tools that looked pretty easy to do... |
| textYou can do it with a 9v battery and some cotton. Lots of guys who make knives do that way, so there's a lot of videos explaining the process."} |
| {"text":"why no using bitcoin miners to heat cave? I got one of those 750W counter top water distillers and its comfy to heat a room as it makes a gallon in about 4 hours. OK, that works out to about 3x what \"drinking water\" costs at the vending machine but its DISTILLED and no lugging water, etc. Can a Bitcoin Miner also double as powerful desktop, or vice-versa? Avalon Q 90TH/s Bitcoin Miner by New Canaan - 18.6J/TH 1674W ASIC Miner, Ultra-Quiet Home Mining Crypto Machine, 110V-240V, Included Original US Power Cord in Stock Visit the OEMGMINER Store 5.0 5.0 out of 5 stars (15) | Search this page 50+ bought in past month $1,879.00 $1,879.00"} |
| {"text":"297167ate sexo have you considered using your computer in the shower?"} |
| {"text":"and WTF about cooling? WTF do they call'em \ when seems they wouldn't do shit for cooling in humid swamp butt would work great in hot dry desert? No need to use clothes dryer in desert, just hang in closet with door open and it will also cool the house."} |
| {"text":"Distilled water tastes like shit. I do like the idea of using waste heat for warming a place, but a Bitcoin miner won't likely pay off the difference between itself and a generic space heater over its useful lifespan. Remember, Bitcoin mining gets exponentially less efficient over time. They are Called swamp coolers because they turn the house into a swamp. |
| texti think you can consider it a gambling machine cause technically you could mint a block or whatever with just your computer |
| textDoes anybody actually like using these? I fucking hate them Is there any alternative other than a really sharp razor blade and 4 extra hours of my life? |
| textcan we all agree that router planing is the fucking worst and that someone needs to invent a better tool for this already? |
| textimagine using a corded trim router instead of battery |
| textyea its called a planer you retard |
| textplaining end grain you shouldn't be throwing around the tard word my guy"} |
| {"text":"she and her friends were top tier Irish and Scandi beauties. idea was to hunt on their terms and observe prey in its natural habitat. is he reading the WSJ or Racing Form?"} |
| {"text":"I'm looking for a pencil soldering iron that's portable for light electronics work, replacing caps and doing bodge work. Wireless preferred Any recommended ones?"} |
| {"text":"Wireless because of mobility concerns/you don't want to accidentally tug on the cord? Or because you envision being somewhere (outside?) without an extension cord? |
| textpower botton |
| textI knew a guy in college who carried a butane one and also said its good for self defence. He regularly posts on /k/ if you're wondering."} |
| {"text":"Portability and not having to deal with a cord primarily. I already have a corded soldering station anyway. Butane doesn't give me the temp control I want, tried it and I ended up scorching the board |
| textin the park rippin fat leaded rolls |
| textWhat do you think of butcher block countertops? |
| textButcher block is when you have those thinner pieces of wood you can see in OP's picture glued together. It is one type of wooden counter top, and it is quite common (either proper or a veneer to look like it) so that might be why you think it's the normal way for wooden counter tops to be. |
| textButcher block is good if there is never anything wet or hot in your kitchen. Also best if there is no food or prep there. Sure you can coat it with tung oil, but note that any other oils will get in there an go rancid. In essence, a butcher block countertop is among the worst possible choices. Granite is #1. |
| textSoapstone* |
| textNo they are just not worth the hassle but it takes to maintain them. |
| textPossible retard question here but, why not polyurethane finish? I don't put food directly on my countertops, I have large plastic cutting boards that I prep on anyway, is there any reason I shouldn't glue up some ripped 2x2s to width, biscuit and glue them with waterproof glue, maybe some wood hardener, then polyurethane coat it? |
| textChainsaw thread. What chainsaws are you guys using and what things you like or dislike about them? Would you pick a different saw if you would be buying one today? Also do you fix and maintain them yourself or use shop? |
| textI'm afraid to use a chainsaw because I don't know if I fully understand the dangers yet. I get how kickback works. It happens when the tip hits something and there's not enough cutting at the sides. And I get that you should never stand infront of the blade because if it breaks it will fly out and mangle them. What else? I'm gonna have to learn eventually |
| textLowes house brand, Kobalt, they don't own it but it's their 'go-to' |
| textThat's the one. The batteries deplete fairly quickly but I never do any heavy cutting, just enough for firewood for a few days. It's almost 10 years old, and besides adding bar oil and sharpening the chain it's been zero maintenance."} |
| {"text":"Some of these things are too big to go in the fire place C'mon man... In a thread exclusively about cutting wood? Still, I'm glad you have a great set-up and community, anon. rRRRRrrrRRRrRRrR-RUNNNNNnnnnniggERniggerniigggerRigggigiggierrrrrRrrrrrrRrrrrrrrrRRRRRRRR!!"} |
| {"text":"I know this feels... Then when you have one of those days that you absolutely DO NOT WANT to be sawing deadfall in the way, some tree decides to have leprosy right into the driveway... your pic Those women are usually Beer-Battered, right? Only thing better is Baby-Battered."} |
| {"text":"Solve an argument I'm having with my wife: Old bucket of paint, has been sitting for a few weeks. Is this mold, or paint separation? |
| textmold Let me guess. She's saying the paint is growing mold on it Lol just toss some baking soda on it and see if it dies"} |
| {"text":"I don't understand the question |
| textDoes it matter? It's unusable either way. Get rid of it and stop arguing about stupid pointless things."} |
| {"text":"Does it taste like mould?"} |
| {"text":"t. Never heard of a mixing stick"} |
| {"text":"I’m doing a remodel on my kitchen and had to go into the ceiling. Discovered the builder cut these holes into the joists. How in Gods name is this acceptable? These holes are huge."} |
| {"text":"bruh, if your house is on fire, it's already a lost cause. it doesn't matter which one burns faster at that point, you lost the structure already."} |
| {"text":"True, but it's definitely better if there's a little more substance to the structural components so I have a little more time to get my ass out before it collapses."} |
| {"text":"That's not true. house fire starts in kitchen by retard who cooks everything on HIGH Frozen french fries, covered in frost, in overfilled, overheated, saucepan of sneed-Goyl OH SHIDOHSHIDOSHID!! Calls fire dept They are there in 7 minutes Kitchen is a loss, but rest of house, aside from some smoke damage is OK. Happens all the time with older homes pre-1930s. Modern homes? Yeah, you're right. I get why builders switched to gyp-some(intentional,) board over plaster, but homes where the interior walls were coated in a green scratch coat were a hell of a lot more resilient and fire/mold resistant. If you drive through, or just watch YT videos filmed in places that are now defunct, \"ghetto\" neighborhoods, you'll see a lot of houses that had fires, but are still standing. That said, I've also never met a more scammy group of people than disaster remediation companies. Well, we're going to have to GUT everything and hire in the cheapest $12/hr. \ guys for $95/billable hr. then get Hucklebuck Randy and Chuck in a truck, the painters, to \ the whole thing with KILLZ for, oh... $6500.00. Seriously, I've never seen such incompetence and WASTE driven spending in my life before. Comment too long. Click here to view the full text."} |
| {"text":"OP thumbnail looked like a butthole and got my pingaling hard so I'm gonna go crank my hog now ty |
| textLiterally what ikea did |
| textAnyone ever designed their own PCB? Trying to replace the front IO Panel that supports a USB 3.0 Anyone know the name for Female 19 pin header? Want to place it on the board so I can just use off the shelf USB 3.0 19 pin header extension cable. |
| textIT'S WORKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"} |
| {"text":"Both ports are working! Thanks everyone"} |
| {"text":"Currently defense contractor building $2,000,000 36 layer high speed DDR5 and RF ipc cl3 boards designed to be thrown in the ground for 30 years and still have 100% fidelity. I'm looking at this image of your layout and sensing you don't fully understand SI. The decoupling on those diffs are staggering, likely to have massive convergence issues. You'll be a lot better off running coupled serpentines. Also, place reference vias BEFORE routing. You should have every via you need placed before running traces. But I don't need vias Clearly. We don't need to think about signal integrity. It's just modern made up jargon to sound important."} |
| {"text":"Is it better to buy the trashiest used mobile home I can find, buy a shipping container and DIY, or buy a prefab \"tiny home\", cuckshed, etc.? I want to do the bare minimum, the only real requirement is having a roof over my head."} |
| {"text":"I've heard of people doing that too. nowadays 10-20k profit probably won't happen as house prices seem to be cooling off/plateauing but it'll still probably be better than an apartment. I definitely would've done this in college if I'd had friends ;_: |
| textIt’s actually crazy to me that age discrimination is illegal in some places yet it always has carveouts to make this legal. Why can’t I just identify as an old man that’s seen enough shit and go live in sunset hills. |
| textI'd agree that small, prefab homes are probably your best bet. Mobile homes and shipping container conversions have terrible insulation and you'll be paying out the nose to heat and cool the inside. |
| textThe land is just as expensive as the house honestly. The further away from the city you go, the cheaper the land you can find. Like this anon said. A small prefab house is probably your best bet. They're relatively cheap, easy to set up, and are decently insulated compared to mobile homes and converted shipping containers. The main issue is getting utilities hooked up."} |
| {"text":"Does anyone know of any websites that have architechtural plan resources? I want to build a cabin or even geodesic dome on my property, but all the resources I can find are $500 priced glamping airbnb stuff."} |
| {"text":"i have a couple nat geo posters i want to put on the wall, but they are double sided. how do i frames these."} |
| {"text":"I guess they don't have these in stores anymore. |
| textI see, are you sure this is a problem? |
| textya, one side is bird migration another is rivers. |
| textBacklight the poster so the rear image is visible through the front image. |
| textcopy one of the sides and frame both. |
| textIn Texas, auto parts stores and scrap yards pay $15 for each stolen car battery. Plus the scrap yards will buy the cables. Thieves bust the drivers window with a spark plug, pop the hood, then cut out the cables with bolt cutters. My car has a factory cable with multiple wires and costs $279-. My neighbors and I are struggling to stop this in our Houston area. Any suggestions are appreciated. |
| texttexas Is compressed phosgene gas permitted? |
| textBuy a ford escape then watch them spend an hour trying to remove the battery. |
| textThey will do $1,000s of damage. |
| textCan you do any fabrication? Would make something that locks over the interior hood release. Must be removed to open it. |
| textboil potassium and dunk your window in it. fills in the gap and/or replaced the sodium in the glass structure turning it into gorillia glass, it is soviet tech that corning ware made into a widely prevalent product. not suitable for emergency egress glass do no try this at home. packing tap lamination of your window inside and out should reduce breakage, but not safe for emergency exit egress. the painting of eyes and/or the entire face has compelling evidence that it reduce crime, i assume you'll want to use an anglo features to maximize the batman effect opposed to african. parking under a street light reduces crime, loud noises outside of the assailant control will increase their anxiety, south african used to lead in unique car theft deterrent system famous for the aftermarket flame thrower."} |
| {"text":"Setting up an office, once the new floors are in. There was a flood... Looking for advice. As yoy ca. See it isnt a huge space. Roughly 195cm wide, 220cm deep on the short wall, 300cm on the long wall. I'm planning for an 80 centimeter deep desk, because my setup is two 32 inch monitors. I'm going to put in automatic drop door sweeps on this door and another door leading to the hallway, as well as ceiling the gap around the door to sound proof the doors as much as possible. Depending on how the sound is in the room if I need additional soundproofing I was going to get some thick MDF sheets improp them up against the walls, covering the inside with that triangle acoustic foam to stop the reverberations. If additional soundproofing is not needed I will just attach the acoustic foam to cardboard or thin mdf and attach it to the wall. I don't want sound coming in or out and I need to have good audio quality for a work from home job. Does anyone have any ideas of what to do to create a good home office? Maybe I could get some kind of grow lights and have Bonsai trees in there? |
| textThe shape is a bit odd, that's a built-in in closet for a guest room"} |
| {"text":"should i put my collection in this office?"} |
| {"text":"Post all about /diy/ robotics, robowaifus, kits, hardware, careers, ideas, etc."} |
| {"text":"I do intend to make a portion if the fu opensource What usable intellectual property do you actually own"} |
| {"text":"The lower half"} |
| {"text":"Ok, when exactly will chores hit the roadmap? Put in a maid costume or not, i really couldn't care less. |
| textWheres the comparative advantage in that? The purpose of the bot is sex bot. Not even elon musk can get his tesla bots to do chores but you might as well wait for him. |
| textso nothing, okay |
| text/g/ abandoned me. you're still here chat? I could use a little cheer. Its like nobody wants me to be the one who makes this but in the end im the only doing it you know."} |
| {"text":"It’s a child ain’t it?"} |
| {"text":"Oh my god you’re going to wind up on the news for skinning someone lmfao This is a horrifying image"} |
| {"text":"Look man I’m going to be blunt. Nobody is taking you seriously because this is the worst shit I’ve ever seen. Your POC isn’t physically clean. Your workspace isn’t physically clean. You can’t afford real equipment or materials but can afford a gross (unbrushed!) wig. You are ten steps ahead of yourself. You shouldn’t be making a ratty peeling head; you should be making 100 different 5x5x0.5cm samples of skin materials and testing their tensile and compressive strengths, elasticity, etc. Forming it into a head and giving it waifu eyes shouldn’t even be on your radar if you’re planning on anyone else ever making or having one of these. Because of all that and a dozen or more other tells, this is clearly just someone young and optimistic or in the middle of a manic episode making something grimily and without documentation or reproducibility, for themselves, that will get bored of it before spring. I meet at least 100 of you a year. I can count the number that I still saw or knew of a year later, ever, on one hand. Why help someone who can’t help themselves? t. materials engineer that owns a makerspace"} |
| {"text":"you're on the /diy/ board anon, not the do it right board. its interesting seeing the different points this guy hits, and how some things stick, like insisting on using the miku mask i would be semi embarrassed to call a proof of concept, versus what he just abandons outright, like the full scale servo actuated eyes. its interesting to watch someone attempt the kind of things i used to get really excited to try when i was younger, but lacked the skill so put them off, and by the time i DID have the skills, i knew better than to try. i for one wish robotwaifu anon luck and look forward to seeing him succeed and fail, as long as he's learning as he goes."} |
| {"text":"this is clearly just someone young and optimistic or in the middle of a manic episode its a grown ass man with assburgers"} |
| {"text":"Not all the time, but I keep getting random loads, especially whites, where the clothes come out the dryer with 1-2 splatters of small black spots. I have a top loader washer and a dryer. The dryer is starting to squeak during use. Could this be bearing grease? I don't think it's mold as I've left wet paper towels in the area and they don't get moldy after a day. If it is bearing grease, is it fixable or do I have to buy new units?"} |
| {"text":"Run diluted vinegar or citric acid through a cycle without a load. Maybe a rubber seal is degrading."} |
| {"text":"It's the dryer with the steam sanitize nozzle. I just wiped up the zap degreaser and it was a mess of black and blue splotches on an area that 'looked' clean. I still think I need either a new dryer or a professional to come out and fix all the seals in case any of that was leaking in. |
| textYou could remove the nozzle and disable the feature, but you'd have to disassemble the dryer."} |
| {"text":"Do you have a pic of the spots on your clothes?"} |
| {"text":"What should I use for diy kitchen backing that's better than this peal and stick shit that's all over amazon? Hopefully some product exists that I'm missing that's easier than all the youtube tile suggestions involving stripping the paint and using grout/adhesives and leveling nightmares too. I've never tiled a kitchen backing but I'm sick of mine and all these seem like they fall off people's walls in a week and look like rotten ass irl compared to the sales pics. |
| textbut I'm a fucking triple retard"} |
| {"text":"Dear tile masters, I posted a tile question in the SQTDDTOT. didn't want to hijack OP's thread."} |
| {"text":"what are the tile layers? drywall mud steel mesh tile Did I get that right? How do you space the tile?"} |
| {"text":"Bruh grout isn’t that hard. You can do it right or you can do it twice."} |
| {"text":"I hate tiny tiles because of autism but this is clean as fuck. Good job."} |
| {"text":"I can't get my hands on anything remotely resembling a vacuum pot where I live, not even online. Realistically, how feasible is to weld two containers together and suck the air out of between them so I can cook meals for virtually free? I already use a food thermos to passively cook pasta, rice, noodles, but something like the stanley pot would allow for bigger meals like stews. |
| textalso |
| textIt's a matter of heating the temperature of something to a specific level. Then it is done. The \"problem\" with stovetop cooking is most of the heat is not transferred to the food, but lost through the walls and top of the cooking vessel, thus you have to keep adding heat. Moreover, the max level you can heat water to is 212. The idea behind these cooling vessels is that you are able to transfer all the heat to the food and none is lost through the top or sides, making it far more efficient. It does work and that's why it's been used for hundreds of years to cook with."} |
| {"text":"This. If Stanley made something like their crock pot and added electric to it like those electric lunch boxes, it would be lit. The hottest those crock pots get is about 170F and goes down hill from there very quickly. You're not cooking anything in 170F in those big pots. |
| textIt's a matter of heating the temperature of something to a specific level. Then it is done. Sure, but the chemical and physical changes that occur in food when we \"cook\" it are endothermic so getting it to a certain temperature takes a lot more energy than the textbook heat capacity of that material would imply. A bucket of 100C water doesn't have enough energy to cook an appropriately sized input of vegetables. |
| textDoes anyone practice an artistic craft such as glass art, wood carving, ceramics, painting little objects, and so on? What do you do and what are the most satisfying things you've done in it? Advice for people who want to get started?"} |
| {"text":"They be....... Gnomin' around |
| textThose definitely look better than the other handmade ceramic Christmas trees I've seen. How's getting into ceramics? Is the beginner tier all boring mold-pouring? |
| textMy grandma started this shop in the 70s, and back then, it was all about buying molds to pour and paint and so on... The market seems to have shifted though, because all of the mold companies have either shuttered or been bought up, and there's only really one company doing them anymore. So these days, it's about buying Bisque, or Bisk, or just, unpainted ceramics, since I guess it's also easier since you only need a kiln and even then only if you're doing glaze. Also, these gnomes kinda suck, since I did them, the good stuff was from before grandma had her stroke, pic related |
| textmost of our stuff seems to be animals and Christmas, a large chunk of our few thousand molds seem to be Christmas ornaments (a lot of very small molds) and damn near every building you could think of for making one of those Christmas village scene things |
| textBack when I had more money, I would buy fancy crystals and send them out to get faceted. There was a guy in SoCal who did really great custom designs, made a hexagonal cut on a piece of Nd:YAG for me. That might be a viable business for you anon, since I think all those guys are prolly old and about to retire or kick the bucket. |
| textIs there any /diy/ guide for beginners who want to design their own PCBs for first time? |
| textYou are one autistic faggot |
| textDave Jones' guide is a pretty good place to start."} |
| {"text":"So what's the right way then? |
| textIt's probably fine for what you're doing but generally avoid sharp corners for EMI reasons, because you can accidentally make something that's like a little horn antenna, and historically to avoid acid traps in PCB fabrication, though that's not as much of a concern at well-controlled modern fabricators. |
| textYou basically start with a big, fat ugly pcb, then you shrink it down with more efficient pathways and layers every time. |
| textGot a few more sanding passes to do then its time for the osmo and ceramic coat |
| textYou're right, they do. \"What if we made a table to eat off of with a FUCKTON of toxic chemicals?\" Was going to get one of those \"river\" looking cutting boards done the same way because my wife liked it. After looking at how stupid that actually is I just got a big-ass block of wood. Done. Would you eat resin? Do you really think small shavings or micro abraisions don't happen? |
| textYou eat off your table? Must suck to be so poor you cant afford plates |
| textThat's cool dude, I saw a couple of guys getting into this. I'd perhaps like to live in a place big enough and have time to try this out one day. |
| textI remember thinking these were starting to be played out in 2012 Can’t believe people are still making them |
| textArthur Jermyn toes |
| textHomebrew general. Post you brews, recipes, ideas and problems old 'un"} |
| {"text":"It was a classic grape wine, over 20 liters of it after fermentation was done. I made it over a year ago from my own grapes, every few months I would drain some of it for drinking and move it into a smaller jar when possible. It tasted ok ever time until now when it's undrinkable, I think I might have failed to tighten it properly after last time and it was breathing air but I'm not sure. I think contamination is unlikely as I always clean my jars with potassium metabisulfite and citric acid before pouring anything into them. I don't think I can salvage it in any way so I'm thinking about just dumping it down the drain but maybe there is something I could still use it for I don't know about. |
| textVinegar |
| textCan I make decent quality vinegar this way? I have hear I could do this but I assumed it would be inferior to off the shelf vinegar and smell really bad I guess I could give it a shoot, not like I'll use it for anything else, do I just leave it open and let bacteria do their thing?"} |
| {"text":"Should work, you can also probably buy a vinegar mother or dump some live vinegar in. I would just cover it with a cloth and let it go."} |
| {"text":"Add kombucha. That'll chew through the remaining alcohol and sugar and crowd out the other bacteria. People have been experimenting with it for reuse of pomace and the results seem promising. |
| textWondering about the fiber arts scene on /diy/. Share past/current projects, tips, tricks, suppliers, patterns, and news from the wider fiber arts community. Or just ask for help. All mediums and styles welcome. Knit, crochet, tufting, weaving, even nalbinding for the 2 of you that partake. |
| textHello anons. My sister is really into all of this stuff and I want to get her a tabletop loom for her birthday since she wants to get into weaving. I'm totally clueless about all of this though. She has a lot of experience knitting and crocheting and darning and has made various socks and scarves and things so she's not totally new to fiber arts in general. I want to get her something that's beginner-friendly enough that she can learn to weave relatively frustration-free but also use it to make something nice and not be limited by a very basic beginner/handheld model. It looks like a 4 shaft table loom might be the right choice here but again I'm pretty clueless. What do you guys suggest? |
| textIt kind of depends? If she likes working with color and texture more than anything else, a rigid heddle loom will work. It's the simplest and cheapest option, but as you probably picked up, it's pretty limited. You can expand it with like, pick-up and stuff, but fundamentally it's for plain weave. There's nothing really /wrong/ with that (even very fancy weavers do a lot of plain weave) but it can be limiting. Though if she wants to do tapestry it will do that fine as well. A four-shaft table loom is probably the best mix of simplicity and flexibility. That's where I started, and it's worked well for me. It is more of a pain to set up than a rigid heddle loom, since you have to worry about different shafts and such, but you can do twills and twills are great. The one I own is a custom so I don't know what actual brands are best, but it looks like the Schacht Cricket Quartet is a nice place to start and won't break the bank, even if it is rather narrow. For something more expensive, it looks like Ashford has a nice table loom. I'd personally recommend 24 inches as a good weaving width - it's not so wide it's hard to find a place for, but it's not so narrow you're stuck only doing scarves. (for stuff like blankets she'll be weaving strips and sewing them together anyway) (by the way weaving is /fantastic/ for making blankets) You'll also have to think about reeds, and unless she has a lot of very fine yarn a 6 or 8-dent might be a good place to start - you can always thread more yarns through the dents. A 12-dent is really good for flexibility (it just makes the math easier in a lot of ways) but a too-narrow reed will abrade the yarn and she probably has mostly knitting yarns, which are generally thicker. Learning to Weave by Deborah Chandler is a great introductory book, if you want to help her get started with dressing the loom and doing basic weaving. It's how I started, and it gives very clear instructions. |
| textYou can try checking Craigslist/Facebook Marketplace for something used, which does happen a lot, though you're running the risk of grabbing something that doesn't work off an estate sale. Looms are pretty basic mechanically, though, so some care will probably fix most issues up. If your area has a weaver's guild you can try contacting them for more information about what's in the area, they'll probably be thrilled to help. Just be careful of hyper-opinionated types."} |
| {"text":"Thanks, this is a big help."} |
| {"text":"I’m putting together a tent sauna, but my current settup won’t go above 125F. It’s a Morzh tent, and I’m trying to reuse my US stove caribou 18 stove, but even though with the rocks the steam is nice, its heat is inadequate. It’s honestly inadequate for my 9x13ft canvas tent in the winter also, so I was wondering if any of you have ever used a larger hot tent stove in a sauna (like a winnerwell nomad stove). It looks like I might need to get two purposes built stoves, one for long steady burns in the tent, and another for fast intense burns in the sauna. Though obviously if I can avoid the added expense of a second stove it would be nice. Else, maybe some tips for getting a hotter fire? I’m just burning fir I cut last spring."} |
| {"text":"Overall pic to show size and chimney height"} |
| {"text":"Whats a sauna"} |
| {"text":"Is PETG the gayest filament of all time? Have I been deceived by the plastic jew?"} |
| {"text":"what fillament and printer are you using?"} |
| {"text":"when it's good, it's very, very good and when it's bad, it's horrid"} |
| {"text":"PETG is good, you're just getting skill issue'd. big flat surfaces on the bed Yeah that's gonna warp if you don't have an enclosure."} |
| {"text":"using 3d printed slop to make food enjoy your bacteria growing in between the layers petg isn't the same as PET (i.e. plastic bottles) because the G (glycol) makes it softer and weaker. |
| textIs PETG the gayest filament of all time? Nah, that's PPS. Have I been deceived by the plastic jew? Happens to everyone."} |
| {"text":"Hi /diy/, I'm in between jobs right now and lately I've been collecting broken appliances from the curb and checking the dumpsters around my local apartments too. I've taken apart a few microwaves and resold a couple working mini-fridges. It's not a ton of money but it keeps me busy. Any other scrap collectors?"} |
| {"text":"truck parked crooked over a spot it never could have fit in anyway this is way funnier than it has any right to be"} |
| {"text":"hobo was able to afford a garage for his new car and an addition to his house thanks to hard work and gumption the american fucking dream right here"} |
| {"text":"Are you perhaps romanian"} |
| {"text":"I do Security and its the worst thing when some asshole tells some bum he has \"permission\" to go through trash to collect cans. Always leads to \"collecting scrap\" which always leads to shit like ripping downspouts off the building or just smash and grab out of cars. Give one bum \"permission\" to even think about being on property and in a week you got a small village and you are Bum Central. \"Permission\" will be passed via \"electricity\" like in baseball from bum to bum. Plus the cops will be \"but they were GIVEN permission\"."} |
| {"text":"Security You guys walk right passed bum tents on properties that you’re supposed to be securing. You’re worse than they are."} |
| {"text":"a heating engineer told me that these lines on the inside of my boiler are a sign of damage. is this true?"} |
| {"text":"those are the ribs showing due to malnutrition"} |
| {"text":"the metal has heated and then constricted. if he was just an advisor doing an inspection he may be correct. if he was trying to sell you a service or replacement chances are he was trying to scam you. only real way to know is to open it up... which should be done every few years anyway to inspect the burner and clean out any debris."} |
| {"text":"Engineer hasn't had Worcester Training. Worcester say this is fine. Although it is a sign that the boiler has been reaching high temperatures. Make sure you get a full strip down and clean service. Change burner seal, refill expansion vessel. Boiler looks quite old. Can you post the serial number? Be interesting know when it was manufactured. |
| textexplain Septic System to me like I'm a bitch. Shouldn't there be an \ overflow outlet, like before even the first tank, so it can never back up into the house? I've heard of Septics overflowing into house. Is that illegal because your System has to work so you don't spread shit, so having it \ is the way you are forced to have a valid system? I'm thinking if I got a place out in the sticks I'd want to add an RV hook up out from under the house, and I guess I could also add an extra Y so I could connect a hose which could lead to an emergency over-flow gravity fed line. WTF happens if your System is OK, but suddenly under fairly sustained excessive use? Will it most likely drain OK, but \ not treated and live turd germs into Leach Field, and how bad is that and do people get in trouble for it? Does it start showing up in your neighbors well water and you get sued and a shitty rep? Seems like any well designed system would include that, and into a normally dry pond or covered hole or French Drain or something. I also saw diagram of a \ dosing system that somehow worked without any pumps. IIRC it had a float and valve on a hinge on an angled arm so the valve would stay closed until \ level well above it, then would open and drop level to well below float level. Seems simple and fool proof. WTF with pump systems. Seems like opening a big valve would be better than some little pump (that will be not just going on fritz but in the shit). |
| textHow about a service to Ass-Blast clogged sepic field, since I hear they mostly clog with grease. Take a Shit-Tanker, add a reverse high volume pump, fill it with a solution of some fairly harmless solvent, heat it all up to near boiling, and hook up to Field inlet and blast field pipes with high speed, hi-volume boiling hot solution. Seems like it might be worth a try for a $1000 or WTF for the Service Call would be, compared to a whole new field, might add another 10yrs, or more, because now you learned not to dump grease. |
| textexplain Septic System to me like I'm a bitch. It's a hole for shit just like your dirty mouth you fucking slut whore |
| textGoing from sewer services to septic took some adjustment for my family of four. If it's yellow, let it mellow. If it's brown, flush it down. |
| textI heard it was mostly \ and limit certain foods (don't just send everything down Garbage Disposal). Maybe you had too small or partly clogged septic. Seems like it should handle lots of piss and shit no problem, especially piss."} |
| {"text":"BTW, the only two times I've encountered serious roaches in SF Gay Area was where there was no garbage disposal(s). One was renting from a German landlord in East Bay (he also had some big bug up his butt about \. He literally thought it would drop his RE value $100K if one was installed on back door where no one would even see from street.) The other was in SF \ where they only have to provide the minimal LEGAL required shit. Plus Garbage Disposal is a MAJOR \ item for any rental operation. I did Security at a high class large Apts and they had a PALLET of new units to feed off and a special cart just to do that job. At least one old woman had a new one installed about every month, due to dropping silverware and bottle caps, etc. But for the rent she was paying they just dealt with it. |
| textfoundationless frames Don't, just don't. Not even remotely true. I've got hives hard up against a brick wall, under a low hanging tree, multiple hives in rows with only enough space to stand between them for inspections. The bees don't care. Also a record swarming season has landed me with a record number of hives under my care currently (16) not a lot for a pro but this is only a weekend thing for me. Plus varroa has only just landed in my area the past 6 months so I'll have that to deal with too soon enough. Thinking of getting out completely. Been finding it really hard to put the effort in to go and inspect them, middle of the honey flow right now they're probably all honey bound. Every part of beekeeping is such a big physical effort. Honey extracting is just a series of enormous sitcky messes to clean up. I'd be so much happier with like 2 or 3 hives like I used to have 10 years ago. Maybe I should just sell colonies instead of honey it seems to be much more lucrative. Thanks for reading my blog"} |
| {"text":"Bees are the airborn equivalent of rats"} |
| {"text":"i bought a copy of this the other day even though i don't have any immediate plans to beekeep |
| textI've got hives hard up against a brick wall under a low hanging tree multiple hives in rows with only enough space to stand between them for inspections. The bees don't care That's excellent news for me, thanks for your post. I exactly wanted to put a hive either under a low tree or against a wall. I'm going to start with one hive. I found a kit on amazon for about $150, do you think that's a good starter kit? If not, could you suggest one please? Thanks."} |
| {"text":"I doubt you can get everything you need that cheaply. Pic related is the minimum amount of gear I'd recommend to start with. You'll want 2 boxes so you've got a spare ready to go when the bees need it. Would also recommend a full length suit instead of a head-only veil, until you know the temperament of your bees (they're all different) Also if your arm is like that pic you're going to have a hard time lifting a full box of honey frames that can weigh 75lbs... |
| textfriend tells me americans build houses out of paper and toothpicks then pay half a million dollars for them obviously he's joking, have a laugh look it up later it's real Do you \ seriously do this? Use flimsy twigs and literal fucking paper to build your dwellings? |
| texti've been thinking about this recently since i'm looking to move out bush and possibly build something better. i studied construction some 18 years ago and then went into a different field. We were only really taught about brick veneer with steel or wooden frames as it's the standard for half of Aus. Anyone got examples of some cross sections that are actually well insulating, especially for hot/humid environments?"} |
| {"text":"sticks straw there was a story about this"} |
| {"text":"It's a financial issue relating to build cost, leverage, sub prime mortgage and tax. You borrow as little as possible, build a sub prime death trap, claim its worth a fraction of what you paid to build it to dodge property tax, rent the death trap out to leverage it straight away. The issue is that asset taxes are too high, rental income tax can be negatively geared, the government makes money importing materials and the poor pay the cost of local material shortages |
| textIt's partly an issue of \"developers\" versus traditional \"builders.\" A developer buys up a huge chunk of rural or agricultural land that is way beyond what a homebuyer could afford, subdivides it into as many tiny parcels as possible, and then builds the homes \"to suit\" for buyers out of a couple different options and with the shittiest labor and materials they can get away with. The easy availability of credit allows homebuyers to drive the price of these hovels up in competition with one another to the point where the developer sets the price for whatever the market will bear. I watched as the sign out front of one development changed from \"mid 300's\upper 400's\" just due to local demand, meaning pure profit for the developer. In addition, the developers' purchasing power allows them a near monopoly in the area they're in, and they form LLCs for specific projects that they dissolve afterwards in order to dodge liability when things start falling apart. Having a monopoly and no liability allows them to crank these shit heaps out, regardless of what people actually want."} |
| {"text":"claim its worth a fraction of what you paid to build it to dodge property tax do you really think you can just decide what the property is worth? stop talking out of your ass retard, you don't know how shit works. |
| textI'll start - pissing in the parking lot is free."} |
| {"text":"Went to italy some 20years ago; old lady sitting in chair at highway toilets entry expecting tip/whatever. Wut? Weird and anachronic as fuck. Tbh in germoney you also have to pay"} |
| {"text":"I've had good luck with cheap knives and I beat the everloving fuck out of them. I'm sure actual knives from the gas stations with their flashy looks and blingy handles are pure shit, but cheap ones off budk, ebay, or even temu have been 100% fine for me. #1 thing to do is not get one that has stupid blingy features. #2 is when you get it immediately take the screws out one by one and apply red loctite or super glue and then re-torque them down. That's it. Enjoy your new cheap knife, sharpen it on a belt grinder, use it as a scraper and prybar if you want and don't feel bad when you lose it or break the tip off... Pic rel is probably 7 or 8 years of abuse on less than $10 a piece knives... They get used as gasket scrapers, prybars, screwdrivers, cutting twine on bales, castrating calves, cutting knots open on cattle, and then cutting apple slices to eat. Sharpened on a 1x30 belt sander whenever necessary."} |
| {"text":"watches I haven’t worn a watch in about 30 years. It’s just something I decided I didn’t need nowadays. I have a clock in my car, and several in my house, a cellphone and a laptop. Before those, I had a pager if there is issues. I’m usually pretty unconcerned about knowing what time it is, and I’ve structured my life around it (I’m not a radio silenced isolated sleeper/splinter cell team member worried about subsecond detonations to save the world) It’s jewelry. I got handed several apple watches from family members that simply didn’t use them. They’re sitting in a drawer now with the other ones."} |
| {"text":"Same. I can check my phone if I'm so inclined to know what time it is. Most of the time I really couldn't give any less of a fuck. I'll get there when I get there. |
| textKeeping time is only an ancillary function of something else these days. I do wish they'd come out with an music player that has a watch on it. One that is affordable anyway. It's amazing how fantastically expensive mp3 players still are these days. |
| textbeen working this for a while now for a pretty decent company. jobs include antifouling, metal work, polishing, washdowns etc. realistically, could a yacht maintenance business be ran well solo? i am incapable of making friendships/partnerships but enjoy the work and would like to earn more money but dont know how well one person would do handling all the jobs mentioned by themself. |
| textgets a job i am incapable of making friendships/partnerships doesn't learn the most invaluable skill during the course of his employment ngmi"} |
| {"text":"sounds toxic AF I'd been good at training people as carpenter, and I was doing good as my own One Man biz, but as soon as I tried to hire underlings I became a psycho. Part if that was we were working inside fairly high end homes in middle of RE transactions and I didn't have any real \"capital\" or insurance so any fuck up would be a disaster. Hard to solo because you are wearing so many \"hats\" as marketing, bidding, shopping, etc besides the actual work."} |
| {"text":"It's somewhat toxic work and usually when people hire solo practitioners it's more along the lines of giving some live aboard crack head $20 to dive in the marina and scrape oysters and shit off your hull."} |
| {"text":"there is PPE for the jobs but even still i dont give a shit. Antifouling is the only job that exposes you to carcinogenic shit, the rest is just shrapnel etc. But the antifouling makes good money"} |
| {"text":"i am incapable of making friendships/partnerships welcometotheclubpal.iso"} |
| {"text":"post your tractors"} |
| {"text":"Mmm. Tractor flavored milkshake."} |
| {"text":"brakes work as intended does that have a fucked up hydraulic over hydraulic system that jd construction loved so much in the 70s/80s? i swear those were designed by some jokester at sperry vickers to ruin mechanics lives. that shit is impossible to troubleshoot and will work perfectly the 1st press of the pedal then never again in that fiscal quarter they musta had some beef going with wabco or bendix at the time because standard old air brakes would have been just too easy"} |
| {"text":"does that have a fucked up hydraulic over hydraulic system that jd construction loved so much in the 70s/80s? i swear those were designed by some jokester at sperry vickers to ruin mechanics lives. that shit is impossible to troubleshoot and will work perfectly the 1st press of the pedal then never again in that fiscal quarter they musta had some beef going with wabco or bendix at the time because standard old air brakes would have been just too easy They are definitely hydraulic brakes. That's all I know about it at the moment... Probably better get a service manual coming soon. |
| textAnnnnd I bought an International 1066 today... |
| textI have one of these in a container Should I do it up? Not mine obviously but the same model |
| textMy basement leaks during heavy rainfall so I'm guessing there's cracks in the foundation. Is this fixable myself? Do I have to dig outside and fix it from there too? |
| textIn Europe we drill holes every 5” and inject them it with a gel sealant. The stuff is very liquid so it pulls into all the small cracks and then dries hard so water cant run through it anymore |
| textI had significant water intrusion in my garage-basement. I could access 3 sides above-ground. I hand-dug all 3 sides all the way to the footing. Took a few weekends but a little hard work is good for you. Installed bump-matt down to the footing, then drain pipe/gravel/fabric. Pipes all connected & drain sloped down a little ways away with a buried sump-pit. Put the dirt back. That was 3 years ago. Completely solved the water problem. Had to add dirt after 1 year to address the settling. So - can you do it yourself? Yeah. It takes work but honestly other than time & sweat, it wasn't bad. If I could have gotten a rented digger back in there, it would have been a one-weekend job."} |
| {"text":"grade the ground on the outside to shed water away from your foundation. i had kinda a similar issue. put a downspout extension on where the water was coming from outside, 90% of the issue went away. most basements are gonna be considered slightly damp in the best of conditions if they aren't sealed from the outside. which hasn't been standard practice until the 90s really."} |
| {"text":"doesnt fix hydrostatic pressure. if you have enough water that its coming through your walls, sealing it off is gonna risk damaging the foundation, you need to remove it or make sure it doesnt even end up there in the first place."} |
| {"text":"if its not a big leak you can you waterproofing paint and then fix your gutters. that pic looked like my basement i used zinsser, no more problems or humidity"} |
| {"text":"Noob here that needs help identifying the polarity of this capacitor. It's a replacement part for my dryer. pls sars i need de needful |
| textAlso don't do this It should have a line on it on top usually that gives you the negative leg"} |
| {"text":"This dual rating makes them versatile for filtering interference and protecting electronic equipment. I think the dual rating makes them kinda gay"} |
| {"text":"Electrolytic capacitors are polarized (shrinkwrap will say which is the negative terminal) t. Just replaced one in kitchen hand dryer (.50€ job (probably 50 more than buying bulk off baba ali), instead of >50 € for new dryer)"} |
| {"text":"kitchen hand dryer i have questions is this common where you are from? never seen one"} |
| {"text":"Not that I know lol but there you have it. Anyway, it stopped working, so i pulled it out, but all others I see are the public restroom style bigass ones, and not cheap, even the chinese, so I just fixed it and it's back up and running again now. |
| textany idea of what to do with this broken mirror? What blade should I use to cut it? |
| textWould have been an interesting kintsugi project |
| textTo be fair a bit of duck tape will have that sorted in a hot minute |
| textYou can cut glass with a water jet but you don't have one of those and never will have access to one"} |
| {"text":"the mirror realm is evil toss it into the dumpster round back the Little Cesar's then get some bread sticks ask them to make it fresh for you |
| textHas any of you managed to have current or former employers to pay for certification courses say in welding, rope access, aerial lift, first aid etc? If so how did you convince them? Thanks. |
| textlet morons use crane unsupervised hook unstable 13t load off center poor fresh hire labtech becomes human pizza everybody even remotely adjacent to lifting gear gets rigger cert |
| textAs an apprentice they sent me for telehandler training since the foreman was sick of an expensive journeyman sitting in the telehandler when a much more expendable first year could do it |
| textYes, everyone at my small company just got forklift certified, even the managers since they sometimes find themselves in the position of ordering other people to use forklifts. Telehandler and ariel certs aren't hard either."} |
| {"text":"Wtf"} |
| {"text":"I need to put a pier foundation under this and I'm scared |
| textHave you checked if those anchors can hold the weight? |
| textFirst off why do you need to put a pier foundation under it? Is it settling or are the blocks not sufficient? I think putting beams perpendicularly would be the wrong thing to do because you would have to run a lot of them to support it sufficiently. Why not just dig out and pour a footer on both sides say a foot wide and running the length of the skid? |
| textFirst off why do you need to put a pier foundation under it? I was thinking it would be nice to prevent potential flooding from freak storms, or maybe used as a crawl space or an area where I store things. But I like your concrete footer idea, I hadnt thought of that. The skids are 32 feet long, do you think I would be able to pour the concrete myself or would that require a truck? Have you checked if those anchors can hold the weight? Allowable axial downward (compression) load: ~3,625 lb Allowable uplift load: ~760 lb (with anchoring adhesive or cast-in-place attachment) Allowable lateral loads: ~1,265 lb (parallel) and ~985 lb (perpendicular) in some installation conditions. two skids with a gap of 6 feet between them and 3 feet to the walls not sure how much it weighs desu |
| textI was thinking it would be nice to prevent potential flooding from freak storms, or maybe used as a crawl space or an area where I store things. But I like your concrete footer idea, I hadnt thought of that. The skids are 32 feet long, do you think I would be able to pour the concrete myself or would that require a truck? If you went a foot wide and a foot thick and 32 feet long it would be 64 cubic feet or ~2.4 yards or 106 bags of quickcrete. If you went two feet thick/deep it would double that... The 106 bags would be doable by yourself but probably suck, and honestly it'd be cheaper to just have a truck bring a short load. Now if you did Portland cement and mixed with your own washed sand/gravel the $$$ figures might change to be more profitable to do it yourself. Not sure what concrete prices are here now, but guessing $180 a yard delivered, and maybe a fee for less than a few yards... Quickcrete was around $8 a bag last I remember. So yeah way cheaper to have them mix and bring it to you. Plus faster and overall better mix results too. Get your building jacked up and supported, build your foundation forms and get them leveled good, shoot some mud in it, screed it off with a board and you'd be golden. |
| textwhat about just digging down and pouring blocks? Its already sitting on concrete blocks stacked above surface. Maybe I just pour blocks and insert some wooden shims to get it level? Id just have to figure out a way to anchor the building down. A concrete truck out here is doable, but a massive pain in the ass |
| text/EMOT/ - Eternal Machine Operator Thread Clock in, push green button, play on phone until m30 happens When out of metal go get an adult Never going to learn gcode or machine offsets what about you guys? What flavor vapes are the best? hey bro one of the drill bits, the one with the flat bottom that cuts with the sides is broken Imma go smoke while you fix it bro |
| textIt’s cheap because you need balanced holders in an odd size bt35 So youre either buying Chinese holders or used ones that may have been mistreated Bt30 and bt40 are more common |
| textcan someone help, its way more front heavy than i thought |
| textyou might want this thread it has more motion |
| textLocal community college doesn't even have manual machines here. They'll teach you CNC only. And the local makerspace only has a CNC machine that can engrave wood, and 2x 3D printers for some reason. Membership fee is only 30 bucks a year though so you get what you pay for I guess. |
| textThis was me and I was actually wrong. The local makerspace DOES have machine tools, manual mill (bridgeport) and lathe (not sure what brand/model) as well as a Grizzly CNC mill. Apparently in good shape according to a friend who's a member too. They just don't advertise them because they don't do training with them, so only people who are already qualified are able to use them. It's also 169/yr. That's a shame. Mine has a decent setup, 6 mills (an actual Bridgeport and a variety of clones) and 7 lathes (4 of which are new Jets that are garbage and are going to be returned for something else shortly) as well as a manual surface grinder and a bunch of drill presses etc., and then on the CNC side we've got I think 3 mills of various sizes (plus a little benchtop one for basic training) and a lathe or two, all Haas. The school is also about to do an $8M 13,000 sq ft expansion that will add more of both kinds of machines as well. |
| textA breaker bar is a breaker bar, right? ITT: Shit tier tools |
| textEvery time I have fucked with Chinese assembled pipe fittings it is some grainy nasty looking white shit that comes crumbling out from between the threads. and yeah it's locked real good and heat definitely does help. Also I'm with you on using the green sleeve retainer on shit I absolutely don't want coming apart..."} |
| {"text":"620 fucks. We used to make bit extensions for our CNC router with a 12x1\" bar of 01 reamed out to a half inch on the end and just retaining compound holding a router bit in. Put hundreds of hours on those never had one slip, even with a crash so bad it bent the bar at a 30° angle."} |
| {"text":"Why do you think anyone who knows what they’re doing trashed all their breaker bars and only use ratchets for everything but that’s the wrong tool! Not when harbor freight sells THAT gas a breaker bar the ratchets might stand a chance of holding up"} |
| {"text":"trashed all their breaker bars You're a fucking moron. |
| textYeah never give anyone advice ever again |
| textA friend bought me a great headset but it has a USB connector meaning I can only listen to music on my pc, not my hifi system, smartphone or anything else. Is it possible to just cut up the wire and solder in a 3.5mm connector? This headset comes with a mic. What will I find inside if I just cut the wire? |
| textIs it that exact model? If so then I'm pretty sure there's a 3.5mm jack in the volume remote dongle you can pull out. |
| text3.5mm jacks use lossless analog signals, USB is completely digital. it's better to avoid conversion because it's always lossy |
| textAh nevermind that's a slightly higher-end model. The wire should be for a 3.5mm 4-contact stereo+mic plug. So expect 2 audio wires, one mic wire and one ground wire."} |
| {"text":"I'm OP I have a corsair headset |
| textSuck a penis theres no way |
| textBeen thinking of getting into these. Anyone try making them? What's your setup? Everyone I see online is using a particle accelerator but maybe with a high enough voltage a more normal circuit could work?"} |
| {"text":"Not worth it, it just etches the same tree/branch-like structures which is boring. It’s like if you bought a drawing tablet that only allows you to draw Mickey Mouse (or some ugly, abstract versions of him too)"} |
| {"text":"Dunno if there's a way to DIY a real one. Getting that amount of charge actually embedded deep into the plastic without a particle accelerator seems infeasible. Even with a particle accelerator it usually can't charge more than a couple centimeters deep. Any burning/engraving/laser methods will look significantly different than a genuine discharge one."} |
| {"text":"You should do a big one of an anus height map."} |
| {"text":"\"i shouldnt put myself in series between driver and tube just to see if it gave me a shock or not (it did) well there you go with science\" kek lol"} |
| {"text":"We make these every now and then. Irradiate a slab with a linear accelerator, then smack it with a nail. Wear a respirator to protect yourself from ozone."} |
| {"text":"Nice of you to admit you're a brainwashed moron. |
| textgrey and white |
| textMy apartment has the same gray LVP floors as all the photos in this thread. I haven't furnished my living room yet. Any tips? Right now I'm pretty much living that \ meme. Just a bed, desk, and office chair. |
| textThere were almost zero turd worlders in the country at that time You're a lying fuck. A third of the population was Italian and our greatest ally didn't exist yet OK you have me convinced. Carry on |
| textGet a nice rug so there's less of it to look at."} |
| {"text":"Thinking about building a small cnc mill for small steel and aluminum parts. I’d like to make the thing mainly out of aluminum extrusions. I was thinking that a fixed gantry design like picrel would be the most rigid, except I’d like to mirror it so there are diagonal braces on both sides and to increase the depth of my work area. Is this the most rigidity possible given the size and format constraints?"} |
| {"text":"Thanks a lot for the response, this really helps. I have a Bambulab A1mini and have only used it to print premade models, I'll dig into it and see if I can write custom gcode for it to get my feet wet. |
| textsmall cnc mill if it doesn't weigh 600kg+ it won't be cutting steel acceptably so just drop that idea |
| textminutes of time is billed to the contract for that month and I make $38.75 every time that happens hell yeah |
| textDefine acceptably brb adding 550 kg of bricks to my mill |
| textBambulab Black Betty had a child Bambulab Darn thing gone wild Bambulab She's always ready Bambulab She's so rock steady Bambulab |
| textA place for anything to do with Welding. Post your MIG/TIG/Stick/Fluxed Cored Arc welds, ask questions and discuss sticking metals together. Previous: |
| textGive me the qrd on laser welding; what's the low end right now, and how long till it becomes mainstream?"} |
| {"text":"Its only real advantage is fast travel speed and being able to do strong welds relative to their size but as soon as you have to build up material with multiple passes to get to a specific measurement, laser loses its advantage quickly. Given the safety hazard involved you have you build a box around the welding space and that creates all sorts of problems. With arc welding you can just put on some polycarbonate goggles and avoid arc flash while working near someone else welding. So unless you do a lot of single pass sheet metal welding or thin stainless steel pipe welding, why bother? In a DIY garage context its basically the express ticket to blindness and house fires."} |
| {"text":"Just watched brit guy from car sos using it recently; hadn't heard about before. So, for that garage diy, what would be best \ choice and what kind of requirements, mains wise (garage is connected to apartment, three levels up, plus 10m inside garage itself, some 20-25m length total)? |
| textA normal three phase MIG machine is a good place to start. A new one around 750 dollars plus a tank of argon+co2 mix with 1mm wire is good enough. You can get a thicker self-shielded wire if you'd like. Its a bit messy with slag and spatter but weld fine."} |
| {"text":"Three phase, 750 + expenses Ouch. Guess the <100 bucks \"plug and pkay\" parkside/chink inverter stuff just won't cut it, then... Seems like a pretty hefty investment in gear, consumables, besides practicing, infrastructure for the odd (useable) hobbyist job. |
| textPrevious Thread: Here we discuss microcontrollers (MCUs), single board computers (SBCs), and their accessories, such as Atmel mega and tiny AVRs (Arduinos), PICs, ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP8266/32s, RP2040, Raspberry Pi, and others. For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor driving, etc.) please ask /ohm/. where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts digikey.com mouser.com arrow.com newark.com but that's too expensive aliexpress.com (many parts here are fake, particularly specific parts out of stock in the above sites) lcsc.com Comment too long. Click here to view the full text."} |
| {"text":"reproducing something hobbyist-level someone else has already done - they're great for that actually for another related problem Grok just went and scraped someone's code straight from a forum, but sadly, it didn't work. Neither it nor ChatGPT can give me a working DMA system though, I think they have trouble understanding the very specific configuration bits |
| textMaxed out muh I/O |
| textI'm a micropython babby so I think I will need to configure registers directly with mem32 Micropython has abstractions to configure both PIO and DMA, you likely don't need to do it manually. Either way, it's an easy task. If you can't find examples or the docs fail you, you can always read through that part of the datasheet. I did a while ago and it wasn't too hard. Neither it nor ChatGPT can give me a working DMA system It's no surprise that glorified autocomplete doesn't have a real understanding of it, you're better off doing the research on your own for anything like this. The DMA abstractions are fairly new so they likely don't exist in the training data as well."} |
| {"text":"If the issue is that the docs are unclear, LLMs do kind of OK on this kind of thing if you paste the relevant doc (or library code) and say \"explain this\" or \"how would you\" or \"why wouldn't the previous thing work\} |
| {:working example\here's how to use GPIO pins to flash an LED\" Anyway, I now have a Pi Pico set up as a frequency counter and it took 1 second to gather all the data to plot this graph, so that's p. cool |
| textOutput piece for a tankless hot water heater cracked. Needs replaced but has a spot for the thermistor to mount. Is there a specific name anyone knows for this piece to make finding a replacement easier/possible? Any search online for a \ just pulls up results for thermostor sensors. Unit is Ranein 14kW heater. (Chinese manufacturer site even less helpful than googlw so far.) |
| textproprietary part is proprietary ->/sqtddtot/ |
| textAlmost definitely proprietary. Only thing similar I can think of is the outlets for a water pressure tank that have a 1/4\} |
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| {:, but CCA 2x4s were allowed, and it was fastened to the filled block wall via imbedded thread stock that was put through and bolted with a big ol' washer."} |
| {"text":"1962. as far as i can tell there really wasnt much a standard for sills on masonry then other than separate the joist from masonry. the original (1920s) house has the joists set on the beams that are mortared and stoned into the top foot of the foundation wall. i wanna replace it so i can permanently seal up the rim joists with insulation and never worry about it again in my life."} |
| {"text":"Dammit!, just accidentally closed my reply... 1962 Yeah, post war G.I.generation add-on. probably not terrible. two options: Gang jack it up in 8' sections just enough to take the pressure off and pull out the trash, no more than 1/16th\ then slide in ripped down marine plywood or other Contact treated plywood that's the same thickness. Not great but doable. less than 1/4 inch won't be enough to screw up the doors and windows up from there.I noticed both the joists are shimmed for height, you want to keep that in mind, since it had to do with irregularities in the joist board width(height) Sounds like a nail-biting nightmare. Option 2: insulate, box it up and get on with your life. It passed once, I wouldn't worry about it. Just make sure you aren't creating a rot nightmare if it's an exterior wall,(why else would you insulate?) I love the 1920s building styles, those guys knew what they were doing. Not so much the guys who returned from WWII and started the Baby Boom. Still, they were more capable by and large than much of the subsequent gens. I thought you were concerned about tying down the floor to the foundation from your first post. There's really no good reason to block the voids anyway, but you could still insulate with fiberglass covered with friction fit foamboard. In this case, I'd leave a smol gap at the top. Comment too long. Click here to view the full text."} |
| {"text":"You're not going to replace that sill, just anchor the joists to the wall and call it done. Slap a 2x4 on the face of the block wall, up against the bottom of the floor joists. Attach it to the block wall with masonry anchors. Attach it to the joists with lag screws. |
| textits literally disintegrating doe. why shouldn't i just cheese in some contact grade plywood or 1x. city can suck my ass if theyre gonna ever know."} |
| {"text":"The first thing a real man does when he gets a new angle grinder is rip off the guard and toss it in the garbage."} |
| {"text":"the tape on that grinder where a switch should be thumb deformed from injury scabbed over wound visible on thumb this is what you get when you take op's advice. |
| texti was holding the grinder correct i was holding the piece i was cutting incorrect wound caused by operator error, hope you learned something. |
| textLinguistically, sure. Let's not ignore my emotional investment in the act, however."} |
| {"text":"wearing gloves and glasses He is protected."} |
| {"text":"I've used a Hercules with their own batts. Felt absolutely gutless compared to my corded DWE402. The paddle was also somehow harder to use with gloves despite being basically the same design. I've only messed with the cordless DWs a little but they felt better to me. Personally I'd probably wait for a sale on the real deal, if you don't really need it immediately."} |
| {"text":"decide to be my own GC for my house I’m in Wyoming so it should be fi— you need a loicense ok fine I can take the exa— nooo to get a loicense you need someone to say you have 7 years experience in front of a notary God damn they got to fucking Wyoming. How hard is it to bribe someone into making a little fib about my work experience?"} |
| {"text":"i doubt you live in the town of jackson asshole and the rest of wy is unincorporated barenlands where nobody gives a shit if you frame the outhouse onto the side of your marlet singlewide so this is week b8"} |
| {"text":"Let me introduce you to Laramie. We’ve got: - asians - a collection of buildings legally considered a college - the regulatory environment of portland for some reason - HOOOOOOONK CLACK CLACK CLACKACKACKACK HOOOOOOOOOOOOONK"} |
| {"text":"Land of the free, o algo"} |
| {"text":"Your first mistake was trying to get permission from the government."} |
| {"text":"Just as every line in CAD must be true, Nerd cred is currency—it’s how I push through. I’m stacking up torque for the ultimate feel, Turning Nylon-CF into structural seal. That Z-bar lever is the vault where I save, Multiplying force for the path that I pave. Constraints in the sketch make the vision real, I’m backing the render with a grip made of steel."} |
| {"text":"Name that project... you know the one"} |
| {"text":"Thanks for the suggestion, outriggers and proa-like boats are interesting, not sure if it's necessarily easier to store but they look like fun boats and not terribly complicated to construct. |
| textWhy ? Is it an antenna ? If so why is it so close to other traces ? |
| textStart with woodworking, it's the basics of mechanics. Wood is inexpensive and forgiving compared to metalwork, many mechanical geniuses started out with wood and early machinery was always mostly made of wood. Look into Mathias Wandel's stuff, he's really good and doesn't use fancy tools or techniques. I have a hand powered benchtop metal planer I really want to put back to work but it just takes so much time and I have so much other stuff to do. |
| textIt's not an antenna, it's the ethernet port. For 10/100BASE-T the ethernet lines must be 100Ω differential matched. Skew matching is not very necessary but i did it anyway But what's the point, the components and the boards are lying in my closet. I have no will to build this device"} |
| {"text":"Cheers anon."} |
| {"text":"What are some creative ways to keep your valuables hidden? Anything that can be home made/bought from a store?"} |
| {"text":"he thinks his pieces of paper are any more real than the ones and zeros in the bank If my digital money drops your may as well wipe your ass with your cash. muh precious metals Good luck getting market value, which you probably overpaid in the first place. My favorite was in the old doctor's house that had a racquetball court in it. The old doc had a regular, quality safe in the bedroom closet like any normal person would and in that safe were a few normal, low value guns, some ammo, and some random stuff that was fairly valuable but not irreplaceable. Stuff he wanted to be able to access quickly if needed and wanted to protect but wasn't cherished. Japanese style master bedroom (doc was in japan postwar and had a japanese wife), under tatami mats is an elevated floor. Below that under the subfloor was a safe that was like a vertical metal drawer that dropped into the downstairs bathroom wall. It was a thick wall but wasn't observable from an end so you wouldn't know it was thick unless you measured the depth of the bathroom and compared it to the distance between the door frame and the outer corner of the bathroom viewed from the hallway. This wall was like 20\" thick and the safe was about as wide as a queen mattress and a foot deep inside. It retracted down on a couple of rails using cables and a spring a like a garage door. You had to push the safe into the floor when fully loaded, when empty it would have to be ballasted to be pushed in unless you were heavy or had help. To access it, you lift a couple of tatami mats and move them, lift a couple of plywood panels beneath them, find the joint in the subfloor, lift the loose panel (looks screwed down) that lays on the top of the wall, turn the latch, and the safe comes up. Then you open the doors to it and see what's inside. The wall it was in had metal studs and thick fire-rated drywall, including the panel on top, so it was basically a fire rated safe in a wall. |
| textIf my digital money drops your may as well wipe your ass with your cash. While I agree with your sentiment, at least physical cash is in your possession whereas your money in a bank account may or may not even be physically available at that bank branch. If there is even the slightest run on money you can guarantee they won't have the cash to cover it. Hell I could probably wipe out my banks physical cash stash by myself just by cashing out my bank accounts there. That is why they require you to come in a day before and order the cash you need it you are taking out a large sum. Now as you were saying the actual value of that paper cash can be highly subjective..."} |
| {"text":"NTA, but paper cash will still have value for several weeks for most. The programming that 2 Identical pieces of paper with different denominations on them are somehow \"Worth\" the same is a function of them being merely receipts for debt-but I'm sure most of you know that already. Still, since 95%+ of the population AREN'T aware of this con, the fancy toilet paper will still trip the \"VALUE\" trigger in most people, unless there is a massive PR push(?) in the media that the paper is worthless. I'd say that having a good couple stacks of $10s, $20s and $50s say maybe 5-10k's worth, would get many by in the beginning crisis. I can almost guarantee,that even if the economy collapses, there will be SOME retards who will be breaking into banks, ignoring the SDBs and \"Making off\" with 100s of thousands of stacks of fancy toilet paper. ...Just like I can almost guarantee that if the power grid went down tomorrow, there would still be \"People\" looting Mall-Wart for TVs and other electronics. **Just a friendly reminder for those burying treasure in their yards: Don't forget to make a trip to the junkyard and get a bunch of ferrous metal chunks and rusty bolts/nuts to bury all over the place with a post hole digger. Getting a good depth range could be paramount to success too. 4\ well pipe could easily hold several 4\Pump wire\ride up\} |
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| {:extraordinary one-level, custom-built luxury residence\} |
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| {:don't get it wet\". I was slapping Masonite on McMansions back in 1989 in San Jose. Wrappers said \"40yr warranty backed by AAA Gold rated Insurance\". Spit on backside and its swelling by the time I go to outhouse and back. All \"warranty\" went bankrupt first thing in the 1990 RE blow out. T-111 seems chemically \"OK\" but cunt I get some WITHOUT THE GROOVES. You had ONE JOB."} |
| {"text":"Dedicated laundry room Washer and dryer in the second, detached garage Full size bathroom in the 15-car detached garage No indication of any kind of utility wiring through the garage so it can be used as a workshop 4 bathrooms Two bedrooms still have to share one while main gets a bedroom-sized bath Two showers when there's room for a big tub I mean, if that's your only complaint about this mess of a house..."} |
| {"text":"how do you clean this ? I tried scrubbing the fuck out of it and it's not coming off |
| textgood job anon I hope it lasts, looks satisfying tfw no neglected bath to polish |
| textthat shit is magic. thank my dead mother for letting me in on the secret. |
| textbar keeper's friend works great on pots and pans too. i suggest wearing gloves while using it (although i rarely do). and now you know."} |
| {"text":"Based Oxalic acid appreciator The pros would've accepted Muriatic acid as well, but that shit truly is only for careful and knowledgable anons, which by my count there were only 3 ITT including me. Problem solved, retards exposed... /thread |
| textMuriatic acid It's just hydrochloric."} |
| {"text":"Last Supper Edition A place for anything to do with woodworking. Post your wood and woodworks. Previous:"} |
| {"text":"Thank you fren I really appreciate your help I'll look into it, also nice work on your first project:> some whore bird will whore herself out in it nonetheless KEK thanks anon that made my day |
| textAlso, something i forgot to ask, if I'm making a watch box as I mentioned in my post () Would it be preferable to use grooves or nails to hold my box together? Or should I just use both"} |
| {"text":"Grooves or dowels and glue. Decorative boxes normally don’t have visible fasteners"} |
| {"text":"The quarter-quarter-quarter joint also makes for a strong connection. Through dowels (or Miller Dowels) can also look really nice."} |
| {"text":"also nice work on your first project:> Thanks, bro. full disclosure, the butcher block was purchased already made. I just cut it into the shape I wanted, and I'm doing the finishing. |
| textThis might fit into a /qtddtot/ thread. But oldheads, what should the younger generation do? I already do CNC fabrication, completely self taught, but I feel forever capped at $25/hr. I can also weld, I can fabricate all the shit I cut out, I can do a lot, basically if something needs to be made, I can make it, from start to finish. But I feel like what I can do is worthless because I’m stuck at a wage that will never own a house, at least where I’m at, or even to be able to afford to life alone. I wish to wake up dead every day so this endless monotony of “existing” stops. What do? |
| textHave to start running the shift then managing the shop or setting up everyone's jobs so they're all the $25 button monkey and you're continuing to improve your skills"} |
| {"text":"worthless post unironically just make it work on 25$, keep the job at 40 hours and do something on the side while you can. (flip tractors, cars, whatever) one person with nothing to borrow against has never really recently been able to buy a house. the bank wants the second person. im 36."} |
| {"text":"basically if something needs to be made Well there's some stuff you can do 1. Learn to do viral/fashionable shit and post it online 2. Learn what rich people in your area like and make that 3. Get a sewing machine and make furry suits. |
| textfashion shit furry suits |
| textwhich do y'all prefer? I like paddles do to the precision of speed and safety but I'm curious what the other side likes about toggles |
| textThe grip on the sides always feels weird to me. Are you talking about the little $50 HPT side switches that are everywhere? I haven't tried those but I love their 36v cordless/corded paddle grinders, more versatile all around than anything else I've used. Besides the cordless/corded thing, variable speed, soft start, low vibration, nice slim grip, good power for its size. For cheap extra grinders like it sounds like you're using the Bauers for, I like the Dongcheng ones on Amazon. Like $30-40, paddle grip, handle well and seem like good quality. I've heard Dongcheng is considered a professional brand over in China so there's that. discourages me from doing retarded shit. Underrated feature. Takes an active choice not to sometimes with a grinder that locks on."} |
| {"text":"So many princess in here lucky enough not to get fucked by the angle grinder. Let me tell when it happens once you never want it to happen again."} |
| {"text":"Lol. I've gotten eaten by an angle grinder more times than I can remember. Every time it was my fault for doing something in a stupid way. Live and learn, adapt and overcome. |
| textI like it |
| textI don't hate this, only problem is my morbidly obese gf wouldn't be able to fit back there Why can’t you knock out a few feet of wall to accommodate her girth? I think this could work in your advantage. Get her on ozempic or whatever until she can just squeeze back in there, then while in the shower get her fat enough to where she cant get out again. From here I really dont have a goal in mind but im sure there's something useful about a situation like this"} |
| {"text":"Its the jack and jill fun bali room anon All new houses ar3 getting one"} |
| {"text":"deadead"} |
| {"text":"Left corner floating on the air rustled my jimmies: where is going all the weight of that tower?"} |
| {"text":"how did they manage to BTFO Milwaukee and makita?"} |
| {"text":"What are you basing this off of?"} |
| {"text":"The $0.01 he got for making this thread."} |
| {"text":"bump"} |
| {"text":"What's in your go-to problem solving kit and how's it set up?"} |
| {"text":"if the women dont find ya handsome they should at least find ya handy"} |
| {"text":"this is /diy/ we only have problem havers here not much solving actually goes on"} |
| {"text":"Any recommendations for a strong adhesive for everyday fixes? I use the little bottles of Loctite super glue, but the adhesive gets hard in the bottle over time and becomes unusable."} |
| {"text":"Tell my wife I'm be right home after the meeting... |
| textWhat's in your go-to problem solving kit and how's it set up? Measuring tape, pen, paper, circle template, knife, multi-tool. I draw up plans, present the solution, they approve it, and hire someone else to do the work. When they don't hire someone, the knife and multi-tool fixes the problem."} |
| {"text":"I've done so much to get this old Philips MCM177 to work. I finally got it to play cd's after swapping the laser, overwatting it and so on. There's still a problem with the buttons. Described in picrel. It basically gives me the wrong action for the button I press. Are the pads underneath just misaligned or something? Disassembling this thing is a lot of work so I'm going to ask before taking it apart right after putting it together."} |
| {"text":"There's something based about early 2000s cd players, boomboxes and micro hifi systems |
| text90% sparkly plastic, 10% electronics. |
| textLikely some plastic support is broken which is causing the wrong contacts underneath to touch. This, I don't know why OP is even bothering with junk mass market crap from the digital age. This isn't some old HiFi system that was worth thousands when new and blows modern speakers out of the water, even in its day it was considered garbage. |
| texthaha poorfag I just throw broken things in the trash and buy a new one to signal how I'm not poor Kys. This is why the world sucks."} |
| {"text":"too poor to go to goodwill and find an $8 cd player nigger."} |
| {"text":"i have solved the mice question."} |
| {"text":"theyre safety socks with rubber grip treads From her stint at the insane asylum. I bet her pussy is grippier than those socks!!!"} |
| {"text":"Came here to make this joke and someone beat me to it already. Well done lads! Some questions... Who is \"they\" in this story? Your mom and her sister? Brother? Friends? Why did they have snakes? Why did they think this was a good idea? Did they derive sexual pleasure from this or was it just a dumb kid thing like kissing a turtle? Fucked up regardless, I'd love to hear more. |
| textSometimes when I'm hungry, I think about how he snarfs that burger."} |
| {"text":"All the ceiling snakes are female"} |
| {"text":"Hello id like to make an anti surveillance hat for er youtube video. Anyways. Its my understanding id have to connect them in series and make them pulse. But im unsure as how to go about doing this without burning them…"} |
| {"text":"and make them pulse I don't think you have to do that. If you really want to do it fast'n'dirty without having to learn about electronic circuitry, you can always just by one of those LED caplights and swap out the LEDs with whatcha got in your pic(in a pinch, old universal TV remotes from the goodwill or Salvation army will do. Just use you camera in your phone to test out if they work to avoid soldering a bunch of LEDs that won't fire with the vaoltage from 2 CR2032s They have a flash built into the chip already too. *Will post the caplights next"} |
| {"text":"I use these and epoxy a binder clip on the front when the shitty little clips break. the ONLY thing that really sucks about these guys. I use a medium binder clip and remove one of the metal levers."} |
| {"text":"I think ill try to do it right and try to learn that schematic ty cr2023s That circuit says two 9 volt batteries doesnt it?"} |
| {"text":"Oh and what a coincidence i got 10 leds"} |
| {"text":"Trying to print “Benchy the Boat”. Can I get any pointers? It’s PLA filament"} |
| {"text":"Must be z axis calibration issue but like everyone else says idk how you fuck up bambu labs. Maybe you tweaked the settings. Pla too yikes."} |
| {"text":"60 degree bed and 230 degree nozzle Arent you overheating the hell out of it? i print pla at 215 nozzle / 45 bed"} |
| {"text":"should have bought a prusa"} |
| {"text":"I have a natural PLA from BASF that requires 230 as per manufacturer, maybe anon has similar one."} |
| {"text":"How the fuck does one fuck up a benchy on an A1?"} |
| {"text":"all I want is a shed to do my work in. is that so much to ask? How does one go about acquiring cheap land in the uk to build a shed on? ideally in an industrial area so no one will complain about power tool noise or hammering noise or smoke. I saw one unit for sale near me recently for 100k, didn't even have an outdoor yard, but you can get an entire house for that with a yard. tl;dr shed designs and locations |
| texthouse house Lmao. Love your 1000 hour mspaint pic. |
| textI have tons of land. I wouldn't rent out a postage stamp sized lot in the furthest corner for a cuck like OP."} |
| {"text":"How does one go about acquiring cheap land in the uk to build a shed on? The government and the banks won't let you mate. |
| textThis is a retarded take. Sad. |
| textAs an American, it’s awesome to live rent free in so many heads simply by existing. I could never utter a word to you yet you have so many negative opinions based on the country of my birth. No idea of background, thoughts, beliefs, anything yet I am all these negative things because ‘Merica. And yet you’ll call me closed minded. You sad little excuse of a man. |
| textDoes the quality of air lines matter or should I just buy the cheapest ones from amazon? |
| textstupid questions are stupid. |
| textI got a 3-pack from Tractor supply like 15 years ago and still on the first one |
| textHow much do you plan on handling and using it? I like the red rubber hoses. No pvc or hybrid bullshit, they are terrible in real world use. The pvc ones are stiff when cold and have a memory effect real bad. While the hybrid ones are better, they still suck compared to a good rubber hose. Get some ferrules and a crimper and learn how to put a proper end on them because they will break at the ends of the hose 99% of the time as that is where the worst flexing happens. Hose clamps are bulky and suck ass compared to a proper crimped ferrule. |
| textGo by the pressure rating for that hose. The cheap ones will have a low rating, or they won't disclose it if that's something they can get away with where you are. The higher rated ones will be more expensive. If you need higher rated ones, get higher rated ones. |
| texti need some help finding a thoughtful gift for a cosplay maker. around $50. i was thinking maybe a hot wire or a pen engraver but idk. |
| textAids |
| textPrecision knife set, airbrush, fancy hot glue gun, etc |
| textInstalled this Safire Buffalo in the backyard 7 weeks ago today. Been giving it seasol once every 2 weeks and gave it its furst dose of fertiliser 1 week ago. Just gave it a move at 40mm and I think its come up pretty good |
| textclippings are your best depends on the area. same species clippings can encourage mold and bacteria that specialize to the plant. you're normally better separating the plant from itself and using composted materials."} |
| {"text":"Composting materials like what?"} |
| {"text":"I would love to bump with my own lawn posts but there's still snow everywhere. |
| textPost snow |
| text:( |
| textWhat would it cost to make my parents' garage a living space? Location is FL. Area is 550sqft not including the bathroom in the door to the right. I think it's already insulated too. I would like to wall off a bedroom and a kitchen/tv room. I looked into the zoning laws and the only thing I can't do is seal the garage door. Doable with $10k and six months?"} |
| {"text":"He's in Florida, anon |
| textNigga he's in Florida, I would be more concerned about gators, pythons and mosquitoes blitzing the place during the night."} |
| {"text":"No I meant there's no dignity in Florida |
| textI was gonna laugh at you but my eurofag $1200/month apartment has the same square footage |
| textI would be more concerned about gators, pythons and mosquitoes I get that BTW but the most dangerous animal is Florida Man |
| textCheers cobba |
| textVery nice OP. If it were mine I'd have gone for a water feature but that's just personal taste. Great work! |
| textWe're thinking about adding some wrought iron pieces and maybe a waterfeature of some sort too"} |
| {"text":"stupid nigger"} |
| {"text":"Im an abo, thank you very much"} |
| {"text":"What's an effective dog repellent that I can make at home? My neighbors dog keeps shitting on my lawn and I've had enough of it. hard mode Don't kill the dog |
| textGreat for Terminator cosplays! |
| textMy dad had to shoot the neighbours dog because it literally escaped the electric dog fence and jumped at him, he had a shotgun though. I hated that fucking dog but I still wish he missed and it tore his fucking throat out. |
| textyour chad dad raised a bitch |
| textYou answered your own question. A dog whistle. |
| textwe know what you meant you autistic motherfucker you didn’t have to make a correction also it was funny |
| textno results found post up your latest buys things you want but dont need christmas gifts useless junk or good shit or whatever it is brand flex or name and shame ignore bepis and seig |
| textSo I kind of want the 60kw military generator set. I vaguely remember these being called a MEP or MEPs or something in Afghanistan. I want it not for the power generation, but as a real-life ASMR/background noise generator. I like industrial sounds |
| textsome asswipe around here bought about 10 units that size from govdeals to flip a few years ago. dipshit didnt know squat about wire pixies. he put pics of the tags in his ad and they were all 400hz after a few weeks of getting called out he put this big text vomit about how all the \ were wrong and all they needed was a \ i think he still has them |
| textthings you want but dont need A table saw. I probably don’t *really* need it (already got a miter and a track saw), but man, I want one. Problem is: they’re either shitty or expensive as hell and the middle ground is hard to find. And I’m tempted to get a festool Rotex to see what the fuss is all about (though that’s also brand flex |
| textPortable table says are all shitty. They range from only somewhat shitty to completely shitty. A 'contractor' saw can be decent but they are not portable. A real table saw is a 'cabinet' saw. They start at something like a Unisaw and continues with something like an Oliver. Picture related. The bigger the forklift you need to move it, the better the saw it is. I got a used American made Unisaw for about $200 from a business liquidation auction. The fence was garbo but that was easily replaced with a modern one. The fence cost more than the saw. It cuts like a champ and is very smooth. You can stand a nickel on edge on the table and start the saw up and the nickel won't fall over. The cast iron top and wings are dead flat. Meanwhile, my old aluminum topped jobsite saw would go out of square if you left it in the sun too long."} |
| {"text":"One does not realize how nice a cabinet saw is until one gets a cabinet saw I love my ol hunk of steel, its based"} |
| {"text":"bolting two 80x200to frames to make a 160x200 bed frame is cool right? Or do I have to buy 160x200 bed frame?"} |
| {"text":"why are you like that? Yu're fag? |
| textI bolted two bed frames together. The middle is hard as fuck. My next bed will be comfy everywhere. |
| textI've stayed in hotels that do that. They don't even bolt it. |
| textIn germany a guy got his money for the night back because of that. The court files state that he had a reservation for a double bed but was given a room with two beds beside each other. It goes on to explain that the customer and a lady accompanying him did not only get what they wanted but the issue also materialized when even using a belt, that was not needed for its original function at the time, was used to tie the beds feet together in an attempt to stop them from drifting apart. Thus they got a refund. |
| textCould work. I would put a box spring or bunkie board or whatever you call them under the mattress. Hould help prevent \ |
| textSo, together with a friend, we have decided to make our own console for fun and giggles. This surely is an undertaking but this is an idea we were considering for a long time and as we got more and more experienced with circuits, embedded programming, 3d printing and stuff like that, I feel like it would be finally in our reach. I never really looked at other people's similar projects, I have no idea what I'm doing honestly, but I can write code and I can use google so I think we will figure it out and get there eventually. I will post our progress in this thread. |
| textas we got more and more experienced with circuits, embedded programming, 3d printing and stuff like that, Ok go on.. Since I know pretty much noting about electronics, my friend will be taking care of designing the hardware. And stop there You need to go this esp module Get the fuck out You've lied about everything. You don't know shit about electronics. Comment too long. Click here to view the full text. |
| textI know pretty much noting about electronics You've lied about everything. You don't know shit about electronics. |
| textHurr we e learned a lot about electronics and circuits Seriously, kill yourself |
| textI'm back from Christmas break and finished map support. That's the last graphics api function minus the linet which I'm sure is only used by pseudo-3D games. Getting that one work perfectly the same as in PICO-8 will probably be quite tricky, so I will save it for latter. Now it's time to implement all the random miscellaneous functions and registers that I have not takes into account so far. Once that done I should be able to just run pretty much any existing 2D PICO-8 game. |
| textembassy pretty cool stuff. will try when i work with a microcontroller next. |
| textGeneric 3-speed ceiling fan circa 80s or 90s makes buzzing noise at highest speed. I don't know what brand this is, I don't have a model number, but hopefully it's a similar enough widespread design. It makes excessive motor noise at the highest speed only. It sounds likely electric, like a buzzing, and it's definitely not the usual \ thing. It's something intrusively loud, and the noise seems to come and go some days, due to indeterminate factors. It's also not balanced, and is not grounded properly, but I don't know how likely that is to cause what I'm hearing. |
| textrecord the sound and upload it to vocaroo then post the link here so we can hear it |
| textMine had wood blades also it was the metal brackets that mount the blades to the motor the were sagging |
| textIma say bad capacitor. |
| textPut a Tesla motor in it |
| textAbsent further information, I'm thinking it's probably a failed bearing. Try turning it off and spinning it fast by hand. If you still hear the noise, it's a physical problem. If not, may be something electrical. Could also be that the motor has to work too hard to spin it at high speed due to bad bearings or general filth. I can state from personal experience that old fans do benefit from periodic maintenance, which entails partial disassembly and cleaning. Doesn't take too long, look up a video on YT. |
| textPlanned this room layout around thinking my pets enclosure would half fit in my closet. Enclosure is 48' x 48'. Is there any way to get it to fit?! Maneuver it weird or something? Fuck! It's too big to go anywhere else in the room"} |
| {"text":"Take these braces off and joint it from the outside instead of the inside. Move both sides in that should be an extra 2\" clearance"} |
| {"text":"gently remove the door frame"} |
| {"text":"Agreed, this looks like the best way that doesn't involve heavily modifying either the enclosure or doorway. If it still doesn't fit you might have to cut down some pieces of the enclosure to reduce the width by an inch or two. I would not recommend modifying the door frame, even if you patch it up it will never look right."} |
| {"text":"I am attempting to rebuilt and improve a crappy pool table. The very outside of the slate is pretty curved all around. What can be done to straighten out the edges?"} |
| {"text":"I'm gonna leave it like this for 2 weeks |
| textedges of wooden board are curving down...so I'm going to add even more weight on the edges and really bend them down"} |
| {"text":"Get a different felt color, something unconventional. Back-under lighting around the interior edges overhanging the board. Outer edges that can cradle cues, to forgo storage rack."} |
| {"text":"It's lying on top of a MFD board. Edge to edge. I placed more bags on the center Before this it was lying on the ground for a few days, that helped take the bow out some. |
| textIf it has sagged over time, just flip it over. It will sag back in the other direction over time. |
| textIf I am going to install a new wax seal for my toilet, is it better to use a wax seal or those rubber \ type seals made from rubber? Or would the wax seal plus the wax ring cover be an even better option? I’m in the USA. |
| textNever tried a non-wax ring but never had any problems with a wax ring other than the slight annoyance of centering the toilet on it initially |
| textThis one is great. |
| texti've replaced a lot of toilets for landlords and hotels. the wax is the best. it just is. you'll have specific configurations where the floor is too high and the rubber wont compress enough or its uneven related to the flange and the toilet will end up rocking.. just the wax always works. the other ones sometimes work. to get rid of the old wax, use a 2\} |
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| {: (at least 6 thou max of 15) It is a 50 watt fiber laser with a 200mm field The text is about 50 characters in 2 groups of 25 spaced 4 inches apart .090\} |
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| {: blade and a wet rag to smooth the walls out, didn't even know that was a thing."} |
| {"text":"it seems so much easier to just install panels"} |
| {"text":"Looking good anon. From, ex drywall finisher"} |
| {"text":"Just come to ask what is the best way to start making electronic stuff e.g wires switches and stuff like that. what is the best things to buy and what are some good resources?"} |
| {"text":"is there anything that esp32 cannot do?"} |
| {"text":"Mend a broken heart ;_;"} |
| {"text":"ooooo I remember these. Not OP, just some other random autist. Cheers"} |
| {"text":"To make a wire you have to take a piece of metal and pull it through series of pinholes with decreasing diameter. You can do it by hand, technically, but it requires a lot of strength. To make a switch you need some kind of casing and usually spring-based actual switch. Be you gotta be more specific what kind of switch you want but i'd recommend lever switches for starters. |
| textI live in an apartment on the 2nd floor and whenever my neighbor runs their dryer, the exhaust from their dryer comes through my mine and floods my place with dryer sheet odor. Can I block off the pipe, or install an inline damper so no air will get through, or will that be a fire risk? |
| textI thought you weren't allowed to bring a lawyer into small claims court?"} |
| {"text":"kek...building maintenance man just piped the exhaust into the walls so it fills with lint...your shit will go up in flames in an instant"} |
| {"text":"California. I went to a local place. They always had ads out for students because it was shit work but the hours were flexible. It was basically a call center. They buy up debt and harass people via phone. Just know you you aren't going to get much. They paid me 5% of the debt and that was a good rate. Likely because it was court ordered debt and not just a repo'd car or unpaid bills. Where I am it is allowed. Every single place I rented from ended up in small claims court because of bullshit. Half the cases had lawyers. I actually read the tenants rights laws for California and they are quite generous for renters. One guy refused to return my deposit because he bought the place after I moved in and he said the previous owner didn't transfer my deposit. The judge laughed him out of court. I had one keep almost my entire deposit as a cleaning fee. I asked for an itemized list with receipts. He refused to give it. Small claims. The judge told him that yes, he was required to do that. He typed up some bullshit and sent it over. Back to small claims. I ended up getting almost my entire deposit back. Only had to pay for a set of drip pans for an electric stove which was $15. I had a landlord try to get me to pay for water damage from a leaking water heater. It was in a closet behind the unit. Literally never went back there. Small claims. Judge tossed it. One landlord tried to get me to pay the entire cost for replacing the carpets and painting the unit. Tenant law says you are not responsible for wear and tear, any replacement cost should be prorated based on age/life of the item, and that the unit only needed to be returned near the condition it was rented in. Landlord had no idea how old the carpets were and they just claimed that they painted every unit at the end of a lease. I had pictures from move in that clearly showed they didn't paint before I got the place and the carpets were old when I moved in. My entire deposit was returned."} |
| {"text":"doesnt stick a fan into the duct to blast gross smells into the mainline"} |
| {"text":"And then let his laundry room get covered in mold?"} |
| {"text":"what do yall think of wood toilet seats?"} |
| {"text":"THANK YOU. At least someone understands. Shit in the US is so dumb, everything feels like youre half standing."} |
| {"text":"plastic foam filled seat top is all cracked and splitting sharp plastic edges poking up along the cracks, but they are still sitting on it and using it"} |
| {"text":"So when my cum smells like bleach there's actually some amount actually in it? I've noticed my cum smells like Flour whenever I decent amounts of bread/pasta/crackers."} |
| {"text":"Why was he walking out before cleaning up after himself? What a barbarian"} |
| {"text":"He was going to get mom to clean it up."} |
| {"text":"Looking to find out how urgently I need an electrician or if I'm okay keeping everything unplugged at the moment. I had an injury and have been keeping a minifridge and small microwave in my master bathroom for a while. The outlet has tripped twice in the last 7-10 days, with the GFCI located downstairs in the garage. I don't think it's connected to anything else. It's been uncharacteristically wet out, I live in the desert, but we've had fog. Unfortunately, my house is a mess because of the injury and I'm not comfortable having people in. Am I at risk of having an electrical fire, like to the point I need to clean immediately and get an electrician in ASAP, or as long as I keep the outlets unplugged, am I okay for like a month or two so I can clean at a slower pace?"} |
| {"text":"GFCI tripped twice in 10 days First worlders are so spoiled. I had to bypass the GFCI for the washing machine because it kept tripping Now i get a nice shock if I'm not careful and touch any exposed metal. Keeps me on my toes while doing laundry |
| textTamper resistant is standard now so that was right. Industrial grade ive never put in anywhere so thats overkill. Regardless of the quality of stuff you put in, replacing the receptacles will be a nice bulletpoint on the list. Assuming you put them in right and didn't fuck up the splices"} |
| {"text":"Thanks for the insight i hopefully (triple checked) didn't fuck up the splices. |
| textSome fridges trip certain GFIs because they can think there's an imbalance on the load. Plug it into a normal outlet and don't worry about it. |
| textwhat the fuck is with all the retards selling rotten wood on facebook/craigslist for more than what it costs to get good wood at a reputable dealer? guy wants 400 dollars for this |
| textMoar |
| textOn the left is yew wood, rugh hand is 2 inch yellow cedar, middle w roughsaw marks is pear |
| textIf it had value it wouldn't be listed, period end of story. It has less value to the seller than to the buyer, doesn't mean it's objectively worthless. If you had 5 properties and sold 1 one of them, is it worthless?"} |
| {"text":"wood mizers Seriously, what the fuck is their problem?"} |
| {"text":"hey cool it with the anti termitism"} |
| {"text":"My 10 year old electric water heater has some visible rust on the bottom, pic-related. I still get plenty of hot water though. Is a sudden rupture with 50 gallons of water on the floor a very real possibility? Should I get it replaced ASAP?"} |
| {"text":"Yes and no. A pan and drain pipe is required if the water heater is installed above living space. Like on a 2nd floor, or in a 1st floor above a basement. It's not required if it's installed on the 1st floor over a pier or crawlspace foundation. However I would still recommend it, as it can take the water away to someplace harmless should it start leaking."} |
| {"text":"I sent the pic to chatgpt And you got a reddit answer. As the anon said it's not the tank. Also, replace it when you see water on the floor. It won't explode."} |
| {"text":"What the fuck makes you think chatgpt would know? Most plumbing is experience based, either learned by doing or in person apprenticeship. It cant even have enough training data to have a coherent answer."} |
| {"text":"I'm not sure what you mean by \ That's just the outside shell, the part that actually holds the water is inside and there's a layer of insulation between the inside tank and the outside shell. |
| textIf you had a leak, anon, it would be pushing out at house pressure, usually 45-50 psi. It would quickly soak the insulation and pool at the bottom. The rust would be around the seam. As another anon said, looks more like you have a leaking bottom element. |
| textWhat is the largest, heaviest, or just plain most ridiculous/absurd thing you've ever had shipped to your place that was DIY related? With some of these free shipping deals you can find online there's not really a reason not to order ridiculous crap and have it sent to your doorstep. I've ordered a 6x26 mill from Harbor Freight, a couple engine short blocks off e-bay. Eight 18.4-38 tractor tires at one time and several other sets of rear tractor tires 4 at a time. My old man bought a 2 post lift, tire machine, and log splitter from Northern tool as well as a couple of bandsaws from Grizzly and a box and pan brake from Enco. Most of the big stuff comes on a freight truck, but the smaller stuff is a lot of times just your standard UPS or Fedex driver. Have ordered quite a few sets of 4 pickup tires. Sometimes 3 or 4 sets at a time. Those always came Fedex. Had the UPS man deliver five 1/2\" thick SSQA plates. Bet he loved me for that. Ammo is always heavy as hell, as well as steel and lead bought off the internet. Might have just outdone myself this time though. Just ordered twenty-two 235/85/16 load range F trailer tires from Wal-mart.com... Might have to give that poor bastard a Christmas tip."} |
| {"text":"a mini lathe a heat exchanger for my brothers AC unit. A shed"} |
| {"text":"Why do I have the feeling she's never used those tools or tools even remotely like that in her life? |
| textSeveral thousand LEDs A bunch of 1/4\} |
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| {: and corded 10.25\ plus anything or those long 4.5\} |
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| {: and 10.25\ is heavier to run with no practical increase in what you can cut. There's even 6.5\" saws now that have more cut depth than most 7.25\" saws."} |
| {"text":"Go big or go home. Only one you need."} |
| {"text":"Had my second Dewalt drill fail on me in 9 years. Been itching to switch my air ratchet and impact out for electric for a while now, so while I have 0 cordless tools should I just fucking jump ship to Milwaukee or something else or stick with Dewalt? I do mostly motorcycle/car shit and home repairs and don't really care about torque ratings and RPMs, I care about: build quality a really nice controllable progressive trigger soft stop finger tight or anti-strip setting on impacts for running down small fasteners 360° lighting quiet operation But most reviews don't mention that kind of shit. Any recommendations? I want to go all in on Ingersoll-Rand because their big impact is delightful to use but they only make like 3 other expensive tools and the compact drill sucks. Comment too long. Click here to view the full text."} |
| {"text":"Are their impacts up to par? Do they have the fancy anti-strip settings and shit other brands have? I never see Bosch anything but drivers and grinders"} |
| {"text":"Used this one at work today. Got shit done."} |
| {"text":"?%D0%BD%D0%B0%D0%BB%D0%B8%D1%87%D0%BD%D0%BE%D1%81%D1%82--%D0%B2-%D0%BD%D0%B0%D0%BB%D0%B8%D1%87%D0%BD%D0%BE%D1%81%D1%82&%D0%BD%D0%B0%D0%BF%D1%80%D0%B5%D0%B6%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%B5-%D0%BD%D0%B0-%D0%B0%D0%BA%D1%83%D0%BC%D1%83%D0%BB%D0%B0%D1%82%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0--18-0-v clean yo shit up"} |
| {"text":"scared of some slav runes, bigboi?"} |
| {"text":"Previous"} |
| {"text":"stupid to not have UVLO I will also say it again: It depends. It depends on what you're doing and what your requirements are. If for example your application means it is inherently impossible for the batteries to be discharged to anywhere near low, then guess what: You do NOT NEED UVLO. Instead it might only mean additional points of catastrophic failure. Secondly: UVLO alone is NOT a BMS. I'm not going to attempt a defi ition of 'BMS' vut it is safe to say a BMS needs to incorporate at least two of the typical functions: Balancing, UVLO, OVLO, OCLO etc. If it's a standalone solution that provides only one of those functions it is hardly a 'system'. But I've already complained above how 'BMS' muddies the water and for some it's all the same and you NEED to have one. |
| textIf for example your application means it is inherently impossible for the batteries to be discharged to anywhere near low, then guess what: If you are using a lithium battery and you are, somehow, absolutely certain that it can never be over-discharged, over-charged, operated below freezing, experience overcurrent, or go out of balance...good on you. You have some incredibly niche application that represents a vanishingly small portion of the market. Everyone else is better off erring on the side of caution. Especially when considering the \ thing. The only packs that aren't really at risk of this are made of extremely expensive, well-matched cells. In other words, the cost of the BMS is trivial in comparison when protecting pricey equipment. Conversely, if you DON'T have such high-quality cells, the BMS becomes much more necessary because they're more likely to have problems."} |
| {"text":"I think there is a misunderstanding on at least one side and I don't feel it's worth further pursueing the discussion."} |
| {"text":"It's reddit tier cargo cult to 'always NEED a BMS / balancer / over- under- etc. - protection' When does an ESS LFP battery NOT need a balancer and over/undervoltage protection and overtemperature protection? In what scenario is it better to save the $100 and use raw LFP cells without each of these functions? |
| textFine, I said it more explicitly in another thread: There exists a group, who, every time a battery is mentioned, talks about house fires, explosions and the requirement to use a non-descript 'BMS'. I would bet that, ironically, the same people do not have a solid voncept of what a BMS is, how several BMS can differ vastly in features and performance and especially under what circumstances which of those features a BMS can have are required - or not. Let alone would I believe those people understand how those features are implemented or trust them with implementation itself, be it using discrete comparators and FETs or one of the usual one stop shop ICs. This usually then leads to those people, buying any object that id labelled 'BMS' by chang the vendor and perhaps their buying decission is influenced by something they have heard 'is somehow more better... it has a transformer, or inductors or caps...'. They will then unironically hook up a 5A balancer to a bunch of series 18650s 'because I am building a 5A pack' and call it 'a BMS'. Meanwhile their application is one where they'd probably be nest advised to slap some dumb Rs on and discharge overcurrent protection and be safe. So in short: The common was not aimed at the narrow scope of stationary, low maintenance, PV 'house' batteries. And in any case: Yes, bare cells are not consumer products. People should have understanding of what they are doing and not read some whacko opinions online, be full of themselves and just imitate what they saw or heard. That is cargo cultism and at least stupid."} |
| {"text":"Can I use black pipe sections screwed together to make a captain's for a home gym to build abs and do bar dips? It seems like they come in the right lenghts and angles with t-sections and such, and faily inexpensive. I was thinking maybe PVC but is may not be sterdy enough. |
| textZuska just does calisthenics no captains chair. Looks like diet and calisthenics is all you need |
| textthose sesame street memes are some of the best |
| textShe does not get her period. |
| textWho the fuck wants to have kids in this day an age? Who can afford them? |
| textcaptains chair Gay. Just use a pullup bar or make parallel bars. And yes, black pipe is strong enough. Just keep the horizontal lengths under 2'."} |
| {"text":"wtf happened to this site? no machinist thread??? Ask machining questions, post machining failures. CAD CAM talk Speeds and feeds guessing G-Code, M-Code, Bro-Code Fanuc vs Haas Bitch about pay Ignore Sieg Whine about spline shafts Button pushers who think they're machinists |
| texti think i understand a little better now, i just need to know which are the live wires and which are the control wires would the 3 lives just be the same brown black and blue as is on the input cable? |
| textyou really just need 3 wires from the switch to the vfd control terminal. the power and motor leads are always connected. do not switch between the motor and the vfd the 3 control wires will be comm fwd rev land the comm on one terminal in the switch that will connect to one terminal when switched one way and another when the other. the fwd or rev wire will connect with the comm to get the drive to engage |
| textgood job anon, don't get wrapped around the thing like a chinaman"} |
| {"text":"I figured out my absolute square problem. It doesn't matter if your square is not square, as long as it is the same square and you test the same edge you can clamp it to the table, run an indicator along it then flip it around and clamp it to the other side of the table and check the deflection. If your x and y axis are perpendicular then the deflection should be by the same amount in both positions. Buy a taig, sherline, unimat etc, there are real tabletop lathes and mills. |
| textHow do I make a moon suit of my own? |
| textsurplus russian gsh-6 high altitude helmet backpack oxygen tanks or firefighter rebreather wetsuit coveralls sneakers gloves utility belt |
| textjust use a drysuit |
| textDoes anyone here have any Parkside performance power tools? They came up with this little 20v kit of drill, impact drive recip saw, two 4ah batteries and charger for like 180€ and honestly seems plenty for sparse /diy/. And they offer 5 year warranty which is kinda crazy for cheap tools. I have PP screwdrivers with a metal shank and they are surprisingly good but power tools are a different beast. |
| textYo im the anon that made the thread asking if that psbsap d4 is a good deal. What did you use the drill for in the last year? How does it perform? Any single issue? |
| textI think it's a great deal ye. Both this and last year, they ended up being bought out by scalpers (or people who really wanted it, like me) who buy it within an hour of the store opening. I didn't really put it through it's paces but I used it while making my workshop to drill 3mm steel for many hours while putting up OSB and it was fine."} |
| {"text":"Nice, heh I'm also the guy coming in within an hour of opening to snatch it. I got it for 130, I see scalpers selling for 170 now |
| textthat looks fucking nice. there are adapters that converts the voltages aliexpress.com/item/1005008748699604.html random example but some are legit |
| texti have 3 pieces of that kit. first of all green parkside is usually shit. Parkside performance is either shit or really great. 1The Drill with 60NM best powerfor price dril out there hands down, its on paar with a 200€ makita for 40€. 2.The Angle grinder on sale for 40€ is great.considering what a makita or Bosch costs. downside it has a sharp protection meaning if you press to hard it goes out. with the model in you pic you switch it back on. i heard ppl complaining about the model with touch buttons where you have to press 3 button in correct order if it goes out which is a pain in the ass. also a 4AH or a smart (pouch cell battery is a must.) 3. the SDS drill is pretty weak, it does its job but is slow but again for 50€ compared to a 300€ hilti not bad. for a homeowner totally fine, at work drilling 100 holes in really good concrete definitely not. the non hammer drill function is a joke it has a slip clutch so forget the SDS wood drills the drill is way more powerful. Prices are round about what i paid on sale in the sore without batteries |
| textI'm looking to get a new miter saw. The things I want are portability lightweight features that can keep up with professional use ie a bevel and sliding mechanism corded Right now I've narrowed my options down to the Makita LS 0816F and the Metabo HPT C8FSESM. Both saws have an 8 1/2\} |
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| {: miter saw, the extra cutting capacity is nice. makita does just fine, dewalt is the go to choice but they only make a 12\ metric blade. the little saws like those 8.5\ is a good saw, but heavier than the makita. i haven't seen anyone using the metabo saws (or hitachi saws) in a LONG time. but the old hitachis from the 90s are legedary for their performance."} |
| {"text":"Thanks, OP here and I actually did end up getting the dewalt DWS780. Cost me $545 and my friend gave me a free folding stand for it."} |
| {"text":"yes get that one. why did you post if you already made a decision? are you insecure and stupid?"} |
| {"text":"How do I get the top lights on? Please help it looks retarded without the top lights on"} |
| {"text":"I added a little more light on the wall."} |
| {"text":"Looks great"} |
| {"text":"You know what i'm really starting to hate fucking Christmas You can all go kill yourselves |
| textCorrection - monochromatic chrismas lights look retarded. |
| textDid you figure it out? |
| textCouldn't you write down the password, wrap it in foil, and run it through a hot laminator? That way the pouch would have to be cut open to get it out and obviously destroyed."} |
| {"text":"Nobody wants the password to your tranny porn collection folder OP."} |
| {"text":"that's great but does it actually force you to change the code now that it's out?"} |
| {"text":"Onhonhon! It indeed does not. That part of the security chain will have to be taken care of by procedures, i.e. me constantly checking that the seal(s) hasn't been broken and changing the password if it has. |
| textCoupons seem to be slowly becoming digital only, probably to stop coupon shenanigans like in the TV show. That said, is it still possible to do, where do people even find the coupons to do this? |
| textI think it was already shown that those extreme couponing shows were about as real as “The Batchelor” “Selling Sunset” and “Real Housewives” etc. |
| textYou'd have better luck with food banks and dumpster diving. I hit the 5 below dumpster a couple times a month and stock up on potato chips, cereal and stuff"} |
| {"text":"You'd have better luck with sperm banks and muff diving. I hit the sperm bank dumpster a couple times a month and stock up on specimen cups, hustler magazine and stuff |
| textPrinted coupons are pretty rare now. Everything is done by apps, which have rules that prevent them from being exploited by stacking and other methods. |
| textEverything is done by apps which doesnt stop my phoneless geriatric father from making safeway fix every sale item at customer service after he gets raped at checkout. occasionally they even just completely refund items they cant get to ring up right with the override card |
| textFreshly harvested zucchinis, tomatoes should be ready soon Who else here /home garden/? |
| textCast one out of concrete. Vibrate it well to get rid of bubbles. Read a thing about making planters from concrete vermiculite mix for lightweight planters. Never tried it. |
| textWould be nice if you can get one for cheap |
| textHow is growing your own veggies not DIY? |
| textWas getting some blossum end rot from a touch too much fertiliser but put some calcium folar spray on, threw out the damaged fruits and now its as good as good |
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