Instruction: My groundnuts are not forming pods. What am I doing wrong?

Response: Too much nitrogen in the soil makes plants grow lots of leaves but few pods. Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen from the air. Use less fertilizer next time. Also, make sure you're spacing your plants properly - 15cm within rows and 30cm between rows.


Instruction: How do I know when to harvest my groundnuts?

Response: Harvest before the heavy rains start. Wet pods can get aflatoxin which is very dangerous. When the leaves turn yellow and dry, that's a good sign. Dig up a few plants to check - if the pods are hard and the insides are dry, it's time to harvest.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut leaves turn yellow and stay small?

Response: That sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's a virus spread by tiny insects called aphids. There's no cure, so you must remove those plants immediately. Also, plant early next time to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: How can I protect my groundnut seeds from pests before planting?

Response: Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. This kills any pests that might be on the seeds. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, plant early in the rains when there are fewer aphids around.


Instruction: Why are my groundnut plants staying small and bushy?

Response: This is a sign of groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants won't recover, so you must remove them immediately. Next season, plant resistant varieties and treat your seeds with insecticide.


Instruction: How do I store my groundnuts safely?

Response: Dry your pods properly before storage. If the moisture is above 9 percent, aflatoxin can grow, which is very dangerous. Spread the pods in the sun or use a dryer. Store them in a cool, dry place in bags that allow air to flow.


Instruction: What should I do if I see aphids on my groundnut plants?

Response: Aphids spread groundnut rosette disease, so you must act fast. Spray with insecticide immediately, following the label instructions carefully. Also, remove any weeds from your farm because aphids love weeds and will move to your groundnuts from there.


Instruction: How do I know if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: My friend, check your mango leaves first. If you see dark brown spots that are not round, it could be anthracnose. Also look at your flowers — if they're turning black and dying before fruiting, that's another sign. The worst part is on the fruit: dark sunken spots that spread fast after harvest. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: My mangoes look fine on the tree but turn black after 2 days. What is happening?

Response: Ah, this is the work of anthracnose, a sneaky fungus. The thing is, the fungus was already inside your mangoes while they were still on the tree. When fruits ripen, the disease shows itself. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop my mango tree from getting anthracnose?

Response: First, prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Also, clear fallen leaves and fruits from the ground — they carry the fungus. Avoid overhead irrigation which keeps leaves wet for too long. Harvest carefully, don't drop the fruits, and store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause mango leaves to get brown spots?

Response: Those brown spots could be anthracnose, a fungus disease. It loves wet weather and spreads fast in high humidity. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground.


Instruction: What should I do if my mango flowers are dying before fruiting?

Response: This is likely anthracnose, a fungus that attacks flowers. It thrives in wet conditions. To protect your tree, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How do I know when to harvest my mangoes to avoid anthracnose?

Response: Harvest when you see a slight colour change at the tip of the mango. This is the sign of correct maturity for most varieties. Handle fruits with extreme care — any wound or bruise lets the fungus enter. Do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately after harvesting.


Instruction: My mango tree has dark spots on leaves and flowers. What can I do?

Response: This sounds like anthracnose, a fungus disease. To control it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. Prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: Is there a way to prevent anthracnose in my mango orchard?

Response: Yes, my friend. First, prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Also, clear fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation which keeps foliage wet for too long. Harvest carefully and store fruits in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: What is the best time to spray my mango tree for anthracnose?

Response: The best time is at the flowering stage. Use mancozeb or copper oxychloride and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground to reduce spores.


Instruction: How can I save my mangoes from turning black after harvest?

Response: No need to panic. The blackening is caused by anthracnose, a fungus that was already inside the fruit. To prevent this, handle fruits with extreme care during harvest — any wound lets the fungus enter. Do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. Also, spray your tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, those brown spots are likely mango anthracnose. This fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, prune your tree to improve air flow. Also, remove any fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. What is happening?

Response: This is blossom blight, a sign of mango anthracnose. The fungus is attacking your flowers. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I harvested my mangoes but they turned black after 2 days. Why?

Response: The fungus was already inside the fruit. This is anthracnose. Next time, handle fruits carefully to avoid wounds. Harvest gently and store in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Avoid overhead irrigation and remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause mango fruit to get black spots?

Response: That is anthracnose, a fungus. It causes dark sunken lesions. The thing is, it was already inside the fruit. Handle fruits carefully during harvest and store them in a cool dry place.


Instruction: When is the best time to prune mango trees?

Response: Prune your mango trees after every harvest. This removes dead wood and improves air circulation, which helps prevent diseases like anthracnose.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip. This is the sign for most varieties. Harvest carefully, do not drop the fruits, and store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: My mango tree has many dead branches. Should I cut them?

Response: Yes, my friend. Prune those dead branches after harvest. This improves air circulation and helps prevent diseases. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: Can I use overhead irrigation for my mango trees?

Response: No need to panic, but avoid overhead irrigation. It keeps the foliage wet for too long, which encourages anthracnose. Use drip irrigation if possible.


Instruction: User notices dark spots on mango leaves

Response: My friend, those dark brown spots on your mango leaves are likely anthracnose disease. This fungus loves wet weather and can spread quickly. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen debris from the ground. Then spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage, following the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: User sees flowers dying before fruit sets

Response: Wetin dey cause this? It sounds like blossom blight from anthracnose disease. This fungus attacks flowers and prevents fruit from setting. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: User harvests mangoes that turn black quickly

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose disease. The fungus was already inside your mangoes but you couldn't see it. Handle your fruits very carefully when harvesting — any bruises or wounds let the fungus in. Harvest carefully, don't drop the fruits, and store them in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: User asks how to prevent mango diseases

Response: To prevent mango diseases like anthracnose, keep your trees clean. Prune after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation that keeps leaves wet for too long. These simple steps will help keep your trees healthy.


Instruction: User asks when to harvest mangoes

Response: Harvest your mangoes when you see a slight colour change at the tip. This is the sign that they're ready. Handle them very carefully when picking — don't drop them. After harvest, store them in a cool dry place immediately to prevent disease.


Instruction: User asks about cheap ways to control mango diseases

Response: My friend, the cheapest way to control mango diseases is to keep your trees clean. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Prune your trees after harvest to improve air circulation. These practices help prevent disease without spending much money. This week, start by cleaning up all debris under your trees.


Instruction: User asks why mangoes rot quickly after harvest

Response: Dis one na anthracnose disease. The fungus was already inside the mangoes but you couldn't see it. When the fruit ripens, the disease shows itself. To prevent this, handle your mangoes very carefully when harvesting. Don't drop them and store them in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: User asks how to treat anthracnose on mango trees

Response: To treat anthracnose, first remove all infected leaves and fallen debris from the ground. Then spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage, following the label instructions carefully. Repeat the spraying every 10 days during rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: User asks about the best time to prune mango trees

Response: Prune your mango trees right after harvest. This helps remove dead wood and improves air circulation, which prevents diseases. This week, take your pruning tools and remove all dead branches from your trees.


Instruction: How can I stop the banana bunchy top virus from killing my plantain?

Response: My friend, the thing is this virus is very dangerous and there is no cure. First thing first: if you see symptoms, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Prevention is key — always use certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. This week, check your plantain farm and remove any suspicious plants immediately.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause plantain leaf turn yellow and dry?

Response: Ah, that sound like banana bunchy top virus. The leaves get stiff, narrow, and crowded at the top, with dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. No need to panic, but you must act fast. If you see these signs, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Also, plant only clean suckers from trusted sources to prevent this in the future.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: The best time to plant plantain suckers is at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants enough water to establish well. Make sure to space them at 3 metres by 3 metres for good airflow and easy harvesting. This week, prepare your farm and get ready to plant at the first sign of rain.


Instruction: How can I make sure my plantain farm stays healthy and productive?

Response: Healthy plantain needs good care. Space your plants well at 3 metres by 3 metres, and keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. Mulch heavily to keep moisture and suppress weeds. Also, plantain loves potassium, so use a potassium-rich fertilizer. This week, check your farm and adjust your plants if needed.


Instruction: Why is it important to desucker plantain plants?

Response: Desuckering is very important because too many suckers compete for nutrients and weaken the plant. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. This way, the plant can grow strong and produce a good bunch. This week, go to your farm and remove any extra suckers you see.


Instruction: How can I prevent banana bunchy top virus from spreading to my plantain farm?

Response: To prevent banana bunchy top virus, always use certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. The virus can hide inside suckers with no visible signs, so never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. This week, check where you get your suckers and make sure they are from a trusted source.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are getting stiff and crowded at the top. What is happening?

Response: That sounds like banana bunchy top virus. The leaves become short, stiff, narrow, and crowded at the top of the plant. There is no cure, so if you see these signs, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Also, plant only clean suckers from trusted sources to prevent this in the future.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves?

Response: Dark green streaks on plantain leaves are a sign of banana bunchy top virus. The streaks turn yellow then brown, and the plant stops growing properly. There is no cure, so chop the infected plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Also, always use certified clean suckers from disease-free sources.


Instruction: How do I space my plantain plants for the best growth?

Response: Space your plantain plants at 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows good airflow between plants and makes harvesting easier. Good spacing also helps prevent diseases. This week, measure your farm and adjust the spacing if needed.


Instruction: What type of fertilizer is best for plantain?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Use a potassium-rich fertilizer to keep your plants healthy and productive. This week, go to your local agro input shop and get some potassium-rich fertilizer for your plantain farm.


Instruction: What is causing the black rot on my cocoa pods?

Response: My friend, that is black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus that spreads fast in wet weather. The thing is, one bad pod can infect many others. First thing first, remove and bury the infected pods deep. Do not leave them on the ground.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotten. What is this?

Response: Ah, that is black pod disease. It is a fungus that attacks cocoa pods, especially in wet and humid conditions. You must remove and burn the infected pods immediately to stop it from spreading.


Instruction: How can I prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: Prune your trees regularly to allow light and air inside. This reduces the humidity that the fungus loves. Also, harvest your ripe pods every two weeks. Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black pod disease on my cocoa trees?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Remove the infected pods and bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity.


Instruction: How often should I apply fungicide to prevent black pod disease?

Response: During the rainy season, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: Why is my cocoa farm losing so many pods to black pod disease?

Response: Black pod disease spreads extremely fast in wet and humid conditions. One infected pod can infect many others. The best thing is to remove and bury or burn the infected pods immediately. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow.


Instruction: How do I know if my cocoa pods have black pod disease?

Response: Look for brown or black rotting patches on the pods. This can happen at any stage of development. If you see these signs, remove the pods immediately to stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don spoil with black rot. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: That is black pod disease, my friend. It is caused by a fungus that spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove and bury the infected pods deep. Do not leave them on the ground.


Instruction: Can I save a cocoa pod that has black pod disease?

Response: No, you cannot save an infected pod. The best thing is to remove and bury or burn it immediately. This will stop the disease from spreading to other pods. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: First, remove and bury or burn all infected pods. Then, prune your trees to allow light and air inside. Apply a copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, harvest ripe pods every two weeks to prevent overstay pods from getting infected.


Instruction: What causes the dark brown spots with rings on my tomato leaves?

Response: My friend, those are signs of early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove and burn those infected leaves right away. Don't compost them!


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomatoes have late blight?

Response: Late blight shows greyish-green patches that turn brown quickly, especially in wet weather. It can destroy whole plants in days. Check lower leaves first. If you see this, remove and burn infected parts immediately.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don de spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: If the spots are dark brown with rings and yellow halo, it's early blight. If the leaves have water-soaked grey-green patches, it's late blight. Both spread fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected leaves now!


Instruction: What do the concentric rings on my tomato plant leaves mean?

Response: Those rings are a sign of early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads quickly in wet conditions. Remove and burn the infected leaves right away to stop it spreading.


Instruction: Why are my tomato plant leaves turning brown and dying so fast?

Response: If the brown patches are irregular and appeared after rain, it's likely late blight. This disease spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn the infected leaves immediately to save your plants.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomatoes have blight?

Response: Blight shows as dark brown spots with rings (early blight) or water-soaked grey-green patches (late blight). Both start on lower leaves and spread fast in wet weather. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don get wetin look like water don de pour for am, how I go know wetin dey cause am?

Response: If the leaves have water-soaked grey-green patches turning brown, it's late blight. This disease spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn those leaves immediately to stop it spreading.


Instruction: What are the signs of tomato blight in my garden?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on lower leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches. Both spread fast in wet weather. Check your plants and remove any infected leaves now.


Instruction: How can I identify tomato blight in my farm?

Response: Early blight has dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo. Late blight shows water-soaked grey-green patches. Both start on lower leaves and spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants and remove any infected leaves today.


Instruction: What does tomato blight look like on the leaves?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown. Both start on lower leaves and spread fast in wet weather. Check your plants and remove any infected leaves immediately.


Instruction: How is cowpea aphid different from other pests that attack cowpea?

Response: My friend, cowpea aphid is special trouble. Unlike other pests, these tiny black or brown insects suck sap from young shoots, flowers and pods. The thing is, they also spread viruses and leave sticky honeydew that causes black mould. First thing first, check your plants for these small clusters on new growth.


Instruction: What makes cowpea aphid more dangerous than other insects?

Response: Aphids are bad business because they spread more than 30 viruses. Even a small number can cause big problems like stunted growth and yellow leaves. They also attract black mould. Check your plants today and remove any heavily infested parts to stop them spreading.


Instruction: Cowpea aphid don dey attack my farm. How I go know dis one different from other small insects?

Response: Dis one dey look like tiny black or brown dots on new leaves and flowers. Dem dey suck sap make leaf curl and yellow. Dem also leave sticky stuff dat attract black mould. Check your farm now, if you see small clusters on new growth, dat be aphids.


Instruction: Why is cowpea aphid worse than other pests that attack cowpea leaves?

Response: Aphids are worse because they spread viruses and cause black mould. Other pests just eat leaves, but aphids weaken the whole plant. They cluster on new growth, so check your plants carefully and remove any infested parts immediately.


Instruction: How can I tell if my cowpea plants have aphids or just normal leaf damage?

Response: Aphid damage is special. You'll see small black or brown insects clustered on new shoots and flowers. The leaves may curl or turn yellow. Also look for sticky honeydew and black mould. If you see these signs, act fast to stop the spread.


Instruction: What should I look for to know if cowpea aphids are attacking my farm?

Response: Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects clustered on new growth. You'll also see leaf curl, yellowing and sticky honeydew. These are clear signs of aphid attack. Check your plants now and remove any heavily infested parts.


Instruction: How is cowpea aphid attack different from other leaf diseases?

Response: Aphid attack is different because you'll see tiny insects clustered on new growth. Other diseases just cause spots or patches. Aphids also leave sticky honeydew and spread viruses. Check your plants carefully and remove any infested parts immediately.


Instruction: Cowpea aphid don dey attack my farm. How I go know sef be like say na cowpea aphid?

Response: If you see tiny black or brown insects clustered on new leaves and flowers, dat be cowpea aphid. Dem dey suck sap make leaf curl and yellow. Dem also leave sticky stuff dat attract black mould. Check your farm now and remove any bad parts.


Instruction: What makes cowpea aphid more harmful than other common cowpea pests?

Response: Aphids are more harmful because they spread viruses and cause black mould. Other pests just eat leaves, but aphids weaken the whole plant. They cluster on new growth, so check your plants carefully and remove any infested parts immediately.


Instruction: How can I be sure that the tiny insects on my cowpea plants are aphids?

Response: If the tiny insects are black or brown and clustered on new growth, they are aphids. You'll also see leaf curl, yellowing and sticky honeydew. These are clear signs of aphid attack. Check your plants now and remove any heavily infested parts.


Instruction: How I go know say fall armyworm don enter my maize farm?

Response: My friend, check your maize early morning or evening. Look for small ragged holes in the leaves like someone tore them with their fingers. If you see wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, that is the clearest sign. The caterpillars hide deep inside during the day, so check carefully. This week, go check 10-20 plants in your field to be sure.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant maize to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: The thing is, you must plant at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Check with your local extension officer or experienced farmers to know the best planting time in your community. First thing first, make sure you plant at the right time to protect your maize.


Instruction: My maize leaves don get small holes like windowpanes, wetin dey cause am?

Response: That is likely fall armyworm, my friend. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night, leaving those ragged holes. You will also find wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. This week, check your maize early morning or evening to confirm.


Instruction: How can I stop fall armyworm from spreading fast in my maize field?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather because one female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs. To slow it down, scout your field early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill young caterpillars cheaply. This week, go check your field and treat immediately if you find any signs.


Instruction: What is the proper spacing for maize to prevent fall armyworm?

Response: Space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, with one seed per hole. Proper spacing helps your maize grow strong and makes it easier to spot and treat fall armyworm early. This week, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How I go treat fall armyworm for my maize farm?

Response: For young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks, neem-based sprays work well. You can also apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to scratch and kill them. If the infestation is severe, you may need to use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos — always follow the label dosage. This week, check your maize and treat immediately if you find any signs.


Instruction: Why my maize don always get fall armyworm but my neighbour's maize always get am?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather, and one female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs. If your neighbour's field is heavily infested, the moths can easily fly to your field. Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. This week, consider intercropping to protect your maize.


Instruction: What is the best fertilizer application method for maize?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting and half at knee height. This helps your maize grow strong and healthy. This week, check your fertilizer application schedule and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How I go know say my maize don reach harvest time?

Response: Harvest your maize promptly when it is dry to avoid weevils and post-harvest losses in storage. The maize is ready when the leaves turn brown and dry, and the cobs feel firm. This week, check your maize and start planning for harvest.


Instruction: Can intercropping really help reduce fall armyworm in maize?

Response: Yes, my friend, intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. The different crops confuse the moths and make it harder for them to lay eggs. This week, consider intercropping to protect your maize.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are very small and bushy with yellow leaves. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. The leaves look mottled and bunched? This virus is spread by tiny aphids. First thing first, uproot and burn these plants immediately — they will not recover. Check nearby plants for the same signs and remove them too. Next time plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut leaves to turn yellow and stay small?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette disease, my friend. The virus makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves. The thing is, once infected, the plant is finished — uproot and burn it now. To prevent this, plant early in the rains and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds — they host the aphids that spread this disease.


Instruction: What disease makes groundnut plants look stunted with mottled leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. Infected plants stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. There is no cure — remove and burn them immediately. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 to avoid this problem.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are bunched and yellow. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is groundnut rosette disease. The virus makes plants stunted with yellow bunched leaves. Once you see these signs, the plant is already lost — uproot and burn it immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the rains and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds.


Instruction: What is wrong with my groundnut plants? They are small, bushy, and have yellow leaves.

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. Infected plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves. There is no cure — remove and burn them immediately. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like the RG 1 series to avoid this problem.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing tall and their leaves are yellow. What could be the problem?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. The virus makes plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves. Once infected, the plant is finished — uproot and burn it now. To prevent this, plant early in the rains and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds.


Instruction: Why are my groundnut plants staying small and bushy with yellow leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. Infected plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves. There is no cure — remove and burn them immediately. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 to avoid this problem.


Instruction: What disease makes groundnut plants look stunted and have mottled leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. Infected plants stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves. There is no cure — remove and burn them immediately. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are bunched and yellow. Is this a sign of disease?

Response: Yes, this is groundnut rosette disease. The virus makes plants stunted with yellow bunched leaves. Once you see these signs, the plant is already lost — uproot and burn it immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the rains and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds.


Instruction: What is the cause of my groundnut plants being small and bushy with yellow leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease, caused by a virus spread by aphids. Infected plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves. There is no cure — remove and burn them immediately. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 to avoid this problem.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: My friend, check your plantain leaves. If they look short, stiff, and crowded at the top, with dark green streaks turning yellow then brown, it's bunchy top. The plant won't produce a bunch — it's a total loss. First thing first: chop it down and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent bunchy top in my plantain farm?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. The best way to prevent bunchy top is to plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus hides inside the sucker with no visible signs. This week, check your sucker source and make sure it's disease-free.


Instruction: My plantain don spoil, leaves short and stiff, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, that sounds like bunchy top virus. The thing is, there's no cure. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Today, inspect all your plants and remove any showing these signs immediately.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: The best time to plant plantain suckers is at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants enough water to establish well. If you haven't planted yet, now is the time to prepare your field and get your clean suckers ready.


Instruction: How far apart should I space my plantain plants?

Response: Space your plantain plants at 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows good airflow between plants and makes harvesting easier. If your plants are too close, they won't grow well. This week, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How many suckers should I keep per mat?

Response: Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat at any time. This is called desuckering and it's important for healthy growth. Too many suckers will compete for nutrients. Today, count your suckers and remove any extra ones.


Instruction: Why is mulching important for plantain?

Response: Mulching is important because it retains moisture in the soil and suppresses weeds. Plantain needs a lot of water and hates competition from weeds. If you haven't mulched yet, gather dry grass or leaves and spread them thickly around your plants this week.


Instruction: What type of fertilizer is best for plantain?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Use a fertilizer that is rich in potassium. If you're not sure, ask at your local agro-input shop. This week, apply some potassium-rich fertilizer to your plants.


Instruction: Can I save a plantain plant with bunchy top?

Response: No, my friend, you cannot save a plant with bunchy top. There is no cure. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant down and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Today, inspect your plants and remove any infected ones immediately.


Instruction: How do I know if my sucker is clean?

Response: You can only be sure if you buy from a certified disease-free source or get tissue culture plantlets. Never take suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus hides inside the sucker with no visible signs. This week, check your sucker source and make sure it's reliable.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with rings and yellow edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. The thing is, it starts on lower leaves and spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove and burn those infected leaves right away. Don't compost them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rainy season.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my tomato leaves get small brown spots with yellow around them?

Response: Ah, that's early blight. It's a fungus that loves wet weather. The spots start small but grow bigger with rings. To stop it, remove bad leaves and burn them. Don't compost. Then spray fungicide every week in rainy season.


Instruction: Why my tomato plants get wet-looking dark patches that turn brown fast?

Response: That's late blight, my friend. It spreads like fire in wet cool weather. Those patches can kill whole plants in days. First thing, remove and burn infected parts. Then spray fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, water at the base, not on leaves.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have greyish-green patches that turn brown quickly. What is this?

Response: This sounds like late blight. It's very dangerous in wet weather and can destroy plants fast. First thing first, remove and burn infected leaves. Then spray fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, water at the base, not on leaves.


Instruction: Why my tomato leaves have big brown spots with rings and yellow edges?

Response: That's early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads fast in wet weather. First thing, remove and burn those infected leaves. Don't compost them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rainy season.


Instruction: My tomato plants have wet-looking dark patches that turn brown fast. Is this blight?

Response: Yes, that's late blight. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing, remove and burn infected parts. Then spray fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, water at the base, not on leaves.


Instruction: Why my tomato leaves have small brown spots with yellow around them?

Response: That's early blight. It's a fungus that loves wet weather. The spots start small but grow bigger with rings. To stop it, remove bad leaves and burn them. Don't compost. Then spray fungicide every week in rainy season.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have greyish-green patches that turn brown quickly. What is this?

Response: This sounds like late blight. It's very dangerous in wet weather and can destroy plants fast. First thing first, remove and burn infected leaves. Then spray fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, water at the base, not on leaves.


Instruction: Why my tomato plants have big brown spots with rings and yellow edges on leaves?

Response: That's early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads fast in wet weather. First thing, remove and burn those infected leaves. Don't compost them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rainy season.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have wet-looking dark patches that turn brown fast. What is this?

Response: That's late blight. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing, remove and burn infected parts. Then spray fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, water at the base, not on leaves.


Instruction: My friend, I see yellow spots on my cassava leaves. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this looks like cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, it spreads fast. First thing first, remove those plants and burn them. Never keep them in the farm or sell them. Use disease-free stems next time, I tell you.


Instruction: I hear cassava mosaic is bad. How I go prevent am?

Response: My brother, no need to panic. The best thing is to use healthy stems from a clean farm. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419. And always control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. Start checking your farm this week.


Instruction: Can I replant cassava stems from my last farm if I had mosaic disease?

Response: No, no, no! The virus stays in the stem. You must get fresh stems from a healthy farm. Never replant from an infected farm, my friend. Go to a trusted source this week.


Instruction: What should I not do if I find cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: Never ignore it or leave infected plants in the farm. The virus spreads fast through whiteflies. Remove and burn them immediately. Also, don't replant stems from that farm. Get new, healthy stems next time.


Instruction: Is it okay to plant cassava in the dry season?

Response: My friend, cassava does best when planted at the start of the rainy season. Planting in the dry season can lead to poor establishment. Start planning your planting for the next rainy season now.


Instruction: Can I plant cassava stems close together to save space?

Response: No, my brother. Space them 1 metre by 1 metre. This helps with weeding and gives the plants room to grow big tubers. Measure your farm and plan the spacing this week.


Instruction: What if I don't weed my cassava farm regularly?

Response: Weeds will compete with your cassava for nutrients and water. For the first 3 months, weed regularly. After that, the cassava will shade out most weeds. Start weeding this week if you haven't.


Instruction: Can I harvest cassava anytime I want?

Response: No, my friend. Harvest at 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you want to use it for. Harvesting too early gives small tubers. Plan your harvest time now.


Instruction: Is it necessary to mound the soil before planting cassava?

Response: Yes, my brother. Mounding improves drainage and helps the tubers grow bigger. Do this before planting. Prepare your farm this week if you haven't.


Instruction: What if I don't use fertilizer on my cassava?

Response: Cassava can grow in poor soil, but it responds well to potassium fertilizer. It helps the tubers grow bigger. Get some potassium fertilizer and apply it this week.


Instruction: How do I know when to spray fungicide for neck blast in my rice field?

Response: My friend, timing is everything with neck blast. You must spray fungicide at boot stage, just before the panicle emerges. This is when the stem is swelling but the flower hasn't opened yet. Don't wait until you see symptoms — by then it's too late. Check your field this week and mark the booting stage.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis neck blast for my rice?

Response: Neck blast is caused by a fungus called Magnaporthe oryzae. It attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, making it fall over. The thing is, this fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. It also thrives when farmers use too much nitrogen fertilizer. First thing first, check your fertilizer application.


Instruction: When should I burn the straw after harvesting my rice?

Response: Burn the rice straw immediately after harvest, my friend. This destroys the fungal spores that survive in the crop residues. Don't wait weeks or months — do it right after harvesting. This will help reduce the disease pressure for your next planting season.


Instruction: What is the best time to transplant rice seedlings to avoid blast disease?

Response: Transplant your rice seedlings in the evening or on a cloudy day. This helps the seedlings recover from transplant shock. Also, make sure to maintain proper water levels in your paddy field. Don't let it dry out and flood alternately. This practice helps prevent blast disease.


Instruction: How often should I check my rice field for signs of blast disease?

Response: Check your rice field at least twice a week, especially during the rainy season. Look for diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions on the leaves with a grey or white centre and brown or reddish edges. If you see these signs, act immediately. Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide following the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: When do I need to be most vigilant about rice blast in my field?

Response: Be most vigilant during the cool, humid nights and when there's heavy dew. These conditions are perfect for the blast fungus to thrive. Also, be careful not to over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Excess nitrogen is like feeding the fungus directly. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the recommended nitrogen dose.


Instruction: At what stage should I apply fungicide to prevent neck blast in my rice?

Response: Apply fungicide at the boot stage, just before the panicle emerges. This is crucial because once the neck blast starts, it's hard to control. Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide following the label instructions carefully. Don't wait until you see symptoms — prevent it before it starts.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant blast-resistant rice varieties?

Response: Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA series at the beginning of the rainy season. This gives the plants enough time to establish before the disease pressure increases. Also, make sure to maintain proper spacing during transplanting to reduce disease pressure.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice field is at risk for blast disease?

Response: Your rice field is at risk if you have cool nights, high humidity, and heavy dew. Also, if you've been using too much nitrogen fertilizer, you're feeding the fungus directly. Check your field this week for any signs of leaf lesions. If you see them, spray fungicide immediately.


Instruction: When should I start monitoring my rice field for signs of blast disease?

Response: Start monitoring your rice field from the tillering stage. This is when the plant begins to form side shoots. Check the leaves for any unusual spots or lesions. If you see diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions with a grey or white centre and brown or reddish edges, it's a sign of blast disease. Act immediately to prevent it from spreading.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut plants are infected with groundnut rosette?

Response: My friend, look for small, bushy plants with yellow or mottled leaves. That's groundnut rosette. The thing is, once you see these signs, the plant is already doomed. First thing first, uproot and burn the infected plants immediately to stop the virus spreading.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant groundnut to avoid rosette disease?

Response: Plant at the very start of rains. This helps your groundnut escape the worst aphid populations that come later. The earlier you plant, the safer your crop will be from this deadly virus.


Instruction: My groundnut don spoil with small leaves and yellow patches. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: That sounds like groundnut rosette, a deadly virus spread by aphids. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Remove and burn the infected plants right away to protect the rest of your farm.


Instruction: What time should I harvest my groundnut to prevent aflatoxin?

Response: Harvest before the heavy rains come. Wet pods easily get contaminated with aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. Check the weather and plan your harvest for dry days.


Instruction: How do I space my groundnut plants to control weeds?

Response: Space your plants 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows. This helps your groundnut canopy close quickly, shading out weeds. Good spacing also helps your plants grow strong and healthy.


Instruction: When should I apply nitrogen fertilizer to my groundnut?

Response: Don't apply too much nitrogen. Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen from the air. Too much nitrogen makes lots of leaves but few pods. Just use a little at planting if your soil is very poor.


Instruction: How I go treat groundnut rosette if my plants already infected?

Response: I tell you, there is no cure once plants are infected. The only thing to do is remove and burn the infected plants immediately. This stops the virus spreading to healthy plants.


Instruction: What type of soil is best for growing groundnut?

Response: Groundnut grows best in well-drained sandy loam soil. Waterlogged soil causes pod rot. If your soil holds too much water, consider planting on a small ridge or mound.


Instruction: How do I dry my groundnut pods properly to prevent aflatoxin?

Response: Dry your pods to below 9 percent moisture. Spread them in a single layer under a shade or in the sun, turning them regularly. Proper drying keeps your groundnut safe from aflatoxin.


Instruction: What should I do if I see aphids on my groundnut plants?

Response: Aphids spread the deadly groundnut rosette virus. First, weed your farm well — weeds host aphids. If aphids are bad, use insecticide seed treatment next time you plant. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'My mango leaves have brown spots, what is this?'

Response: My friend, this is mango anthracnose. It is a fungus that loves wet weather. The spots on leaves are the first sign. First thing first, remove all the affected leaves and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'My mango flowers are dying before fruits form, what is happening?'

Response: This is blossom blight, caused by the same anthracnose fungus. It attacks flowers in wet weather. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'My mangoes look fine on the tree but turn black after 2 days, what is the problem?'

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Handle fruits carefully when harvesting — any wound lets the fungus in. Harvest gently, do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'How can I prevent mango anthracnose without spending much?'

Response: First, prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Avoid overhead irrigation. These simple steps will help a lot. Also, harvest at the right time — when the tip of the mango starts to change colour.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'I no dey spray anytin for my mango tree, but my fruit don spoil. Wetin I go do?'

Response: The thing is, you need to spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, handle fruits carefully when harvesting. Do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place. Start spraying today if your tree is flowering.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'What is the best time to prune my mango tree?'

Response: Prune your mango tree after every harvest. This removes dead wood and improves air circulation, which helps prevent diseases. Do it this week if you have not done it since the last harvest.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'How can I tell when my mangoes are ready to harvest?'

Response: For most varieties, look for a slight colour change at the tip of the mango. That is the sign it is ready. Harvest carefully, do not drop the fruits, and store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'I have a small mango farm, how can I keep it healthy without spending much?'

Response: First, prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Avoid overhead irrigation. These steps cost little but help a lot. Also, harvest at the right time and handle fruits carefully.


Instruction: Farmer says: 'My neighbour says I should spray chemicals every week, is this true?'

Response: No need to spray every week. For anthracnose, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, practice good farm hygiene by removing fallen leaves and fruits.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, this could be rice blast disease. Look for diamond-shaped spots with grey centres and brown edges. If you see this, act fast! Spray tricyclazole fungicide today and check your nitrogen fertilizer amount.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over. What is happening?

Response: This could be neck blast, the worst form of rice blast. The fungus attacks the stem, making it weak. First thing first, do not panic. Spray propiconazole fungicide immediately and check your nitrogen use.


Instruction: My rice field has too much nitrogen. What do I do?

Response: Too much nitrogen feeds the blast fungus. Stop adding nitrogen now and switch to balanced NPK fertilizer. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice to spoil?

Response: If you see diamond-shaped spots on leaves or stems falling over, it's likely rice blast. This fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. Spray isoprothiolane fungicide today and check your fertilizer.


Instruction: How can I stop my rice from getting blast disease?

Response: Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. Keep proper water levels, do not overcrowd seedlings, and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy spores.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey spots. What should I do now?

Response: This is likely rice blast. Spray tricyclazole fungicide immediately. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer amount and reduce if it's too high.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice has blast disease?

Response: Look for diamond-shaped spots with grey centres and brown edges on leaves. If stems are falling over, that's neck blast. Act fast! Spray propiconazole fungicide today and check your nitrogen use.


Instruction: My rice field is drying out. Will this stop blast disease?

Response: No, my friend. Alternating between dry and wet fields can make blast worse. Keep proper water levels and spray isoprothiolane fungicide if you see leaf spots.


Instruction: What should I do if my rice stems are weak and falling?

Response: This is neck blast. Spray propiconazole fungicide immediately. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer amount and reduce if it's too high. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy spores.


Instruction: How can I save my rice from this disease attacking the stems?

Response: You are seeing neck blast. Spray propiconazole fungicide today. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season and use balanced NPK fertilizer.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant cowpea to avoid aphid problems?

Response: My friend, first thing first — plant your cowpea early in the season. This way you can escape the peak aphid populations that come in the dry season. If you plant late, you'll have more trouble with these pests. So check your calendar and get those seeds in the ground soon!


Instruction: How can I time my cowpea planting to reduce aphid attacks?

Response: The thing is, cowpea aphids love the dry season. So if you plant your cowpea early, before the dry season peaks, you'll have fewer problems. Early planting gives your crop time to grow strong before the aphids become too numerous. So don't delay — plant as soon as the rains start!


Instruction: Na which time wey good for plant cowpea so dem no dey get too much aphid?

Response: Early planting is key, my friend. Plant your cowpea right at the start of the rainy season. This way, your plants will grow strong before the aphid populations peak in the dry season. No need to panic — just get those seeds in the ground early!


Instruction: What is the best time to intercrop cowpea with maize to avoid aphids?

Response: Intercrop your cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio right from the start of planting. This helps reduce aphid pressure throughout the growing season. The maize acts as a barrier and distracts the aphids. Don't wait — plan your intercropping now!


Instruction: Is there a specific time to plant cowpea to minimize aphid infestation?

Response: Yes, my friend. Plant your cowpea early in the season. This way, your plants will grow strong before the aphid populations peak in the dry season. Early planting gives your crop a better chance to thrive. So don't delay — start planting as soon as the rains begin!


Instruction: When should I plant cowpea to avoid the worst of the aphid season?

Response: The best time to plant cowpea is at the beginning of the rainy season. This way, your plants will grow strong before the aphid populations peak in the dry season. Early planting gives your crop a better chance to thrive. So don't wait — start planting now!


Instruction: How can I time my cowpea planting to reduce the risk of aphid infestation?

Response: Plant your cowpea early in the season. This way, your plants will grow strong before the aphid populations peak in the dry season. Early planting gives your crop a better chance to thrive. So don't delay — start planting as soon as the rains begin!


Instruction: Wetin be the best time to plant cowpea so dem no dey get too much aphid?

Response: Early planting is key, my friend. Plant your cowpea right at the start of the rainy season. This way, your plants will grow strong before the aphid populations peak in the dry season. No need to panic — just get those seeds in the ground early!


Instruction: What is the ideal planting time for cowpea to avoid aphid problems?

Response: The ideal time to plant cowpea is at the beginning of the rainy season. This way, your plants will grow strong before the aphid populations peak in the dry season. Early planting gives your crop a better chance to thrive. So don't delay — start planting now!


Instruction: How can I time my cowpea planting to minimize aphid infestation?

Response: Plant your cowpea early in the season. This way, your plants will grow strong before the aphid populations peak in the dry season. Early planting gives your crop a better chance to thrive. So don't wait — start planting as soon as the rains begin! And remember to intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure even more.


Instruction: How does bunchy top spread in plantain farms?

Response: My friend, bunchy top spreads through tiny insects called banana aphids. These aphids carry the virus from sick plants to healthy ones. First thing first, always check your plants for symptoms. If you see dark green streaks or yellowing leaves, act fast to stop the spread.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent bunchy top from spreading to my healthy plantain plants?

Response: No need to panic, but you must be careful. The thing is, bunchy top spreads through aphids and infected suckers. If you see a plant with bunchy top, chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Never move suckers from that farm again. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don turn yellow with dark streaks. How I go stop am?

Response: Ah, that sounds like bunchy top. I tell you, there is no cure. The moment you see these signs, chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground so it won't reshoot. Also, check nearby plants for symptoms.


Instruction: Can bunchy top spread through the soil?

Response: No, bunchy top does not spread through the soil. It spreads through banana aphids that carry the virus from infected plants to healthy ones. The virus can also hide inside suckers without showing signs. Always plant clean suckers from disease-free sources.


Instruction: What should I do if I find a plantain plant with bunchy top in my farm?

Response: If you find a plant with bunchy top, do not waste time. Chop it down immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground so it cannot reshoot and keep the virus alive. Also, check all your other plants for symptoms.


Instruction: How can I stop bunchy top from coming to my plantain farm?

Response: To stop bunchy top, plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Also, keep your farm clean and remove any infected plants immediately. This will help protect your healthy plants.


Instruction: My neighbour's plantain farm has bunchy top. How I go protect my farm?

Response: If your neighbour's farm has bunchy top, be very careful. The virus can spread through aphids, so check your plants often for symptoms. If you see any signs, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Also, plant clean suckers and keep your farm clean.


Instruction: What are the signs that bunchy top is spreading in my plantain farm?

Response: The signs of bunchy top are short, stiff, narrow leaves that are crowded at the top of the plant. You will also see dark green streaks and dots along the veins and leaf edges that turn yellow then brown. If you see these signs, act fast to stop the spread.


Instruction: Can I treat bunchy top with chemicals?

Response: No, there is no treatment for bunchy top. If you see symptoms, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground so it cannot reshoot and keep the virus alive. Always plant clean suckers to prevent bunchy top.


Instruction: How I go know if my plantain plants don get bunchy top?

Response: Check your plants often. Bunchy top causes leaves to become short, stiff, and narrow, with dark green streaks and dots that turn yellow then brown. If you see these signs, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Also, plant clean suckers to prevent the virus.


Instruction: My friend, I plant groundnut but the leaves turn yellow and the plants stay small. What is wrong?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's a deadly virus spread by tiny aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it will never recover. First thing first, remove any infected plants right away to stop the disease spreading. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones.


Instruction: How can I stop the small green bugs from attacking my groundnut plants?

Response: Those small green bugs are aphids, and they spread the deadly groundnut rosette virus. To stop them, use insecticide seed treatment before planting. Also, keep your farm very clean by weeding regularly — aphids love hiding in weeds. This week, check your seeds and start cleaning your farm.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing tall, they stay small and bushy. What is the problem?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. There is no cure, so remove any infected plants immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties if you don't know them.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut leaves turn yellow and stay small?

Response: That is groundnut rosette disease. It is a deadly virus spread by tiny aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it will never recover. First thing first, remove any infected plants right away to stop the disease spreading. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut has rosette disease?

Response: Look for plants that stay small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves bunched together. That is groundnut rosette disease. There is no cure, so remove any infected plants immediately. To prevent this, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties if you don't know them.


Instruction: My groundnut plants have small green bugs and the leaves are turning yellow. What should I do?

Response: Those small green bugs are aphids, and they spread the deadly groundnut rosette virus. First, remove any plants with yellow leaves immediately. Then, use insecticide seed treatment before your next planting. Also, keep your farm very clean by weeding regularly — aphids love hiding in weeds.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette disease in my farm?

Response: First, plant early in the season to escape peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Also, use insecticide seed treatment before planting. Keep your farm clean by weeding regularly — aphids love hiding in weeds. This week, check your seeds and start cleaning your farm.


Instruction: What can I do if my groundnut plants are infected with rosette disease?

Response: There is no cure for groundnut rosette disease. First thing first, remove any infected plants right away to stop the disease spreading. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Also, use insecticide seed treatment before planting.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are yellow and the plants are not growing. How I go treat am?

Response: That is groundnut rosette disease. It is a deadly virus spread by tiny aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it will never recover. First thing first, remove any infected plants right away to stop the disease spreading. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones.


Instruction: How do I stop the spread of groundnut rosette disease in my farm?

Response: First, remove any infected plants immediately. Then, plant early in the season to escape peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Also, use insecticide seed treatment before planting. Keep your farm clean by weeding regularly — aphids love hiding in weeds. This week, check your seeds and start cleaning your farm.