Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice plants to fall over?

Response: That's neck blast, a very bad type of rice blast. It attacks the base of the stem and makes it fall over. It's caused by too much nitrogen and cool, humid weather. Stop adding extra nitrogen now. Spray fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Next season, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57. Today, check your field and start removing infected plants.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast in my field?

Response: Rice blast loves too much nitrogen and wet conditions. Don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer—follow the label instructions carefully. Keep proper water levels in your paddy field and don't let it dry out and flood alternately. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Plant blast-resistant varieties like the NERICA series. Today, check your field and start removing any infected plants you find.


Instruction: My rice plants have white spots with brown edges. How do I treat this?

Response: That's rice blast, a very bad fungus. It causes spindle-shaped spots on leaves. It loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. Stop adding extra nitrogen now. Spray fungicide like propiconazole at the first sign of spots. Next season, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52. Today, check your field and start removing infected plants to stop it from spreading.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice has blast disease?

Response: Rice blast causes diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions on leaves with a grey or white centre and brown or reddish edges. Neck blast attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, making it fall over. If you see these signs, act fast. Stop adding extra nitrogen and spray fungicide like tricyclazole. Next season, plant resistant varieties like the NERICA series. Today, check your field and start removing infected plants.


Instruction: Why do my rice plants keep falling over?

Response: That's neck blast, a very bad type of rice blast. It attacks the base of the stem and makes it fall over. It's caused by too much nitrogen and cool, humid weather. Stop adding extra nitrogen now. Spray fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Next season, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57. Today, check your field and start removing infected plants.


Instruction: How can I save my rice from the blast disease?

Response: Rice blast is very bad, but you can save your crop. Stop adding extra nitrogen—it feeds the fungus. Spray fungicide like isoprothiolane at the first sign of leaf lesions. For neck blast, spray at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Next season, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52. Today, check your field and start removing infected plants to stop it from spreading.


Instruction: My rice leaves have brown spots. How do I treat this?

Response: That's rice blast, a very bad fungus. It causes diamond-shaped spots on leaves. It loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. Stop adding extra nitrogen now. Spray fungicide like propiconazole at the first sign of spots. Next season, plant resistant varieties like the NERICA series. Today, check your field and start removing infected plants.


Instruction: How do I stop my rice from getting blast disease?

Response: Rice blast loves too much nitrogen and wet conditions. Don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer—follow the label instructions carefully. Keep proper water levels in your paddy field and don't let it dry out and flood alternately. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57. Today, check your field and start removing any infected plants you find.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with rings and yellow edges, what is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. The thing is, it starts on lower leaves and spreads fast. First thing first, remove and burn those infected leaves today. Do not compost them. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rainy season. And next time, plant on ridges to help water drain away.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my tomato leaves to turn grey-green then brown and wilt so fast?

Response: This is likely late blight, a very dangerous disease. It spreads like fire in wet weather. You must act fast. Remove and burn all infected parts immediately. Spray with chlorothalonil every week in rainy season. Also, never water from above — always water at the base of the plants. This will help keep leaves dry.


Instruction: Why my tomato plants suddenly have big brown spots and die so quick?

Response: This sounds like blight disease. It attacks fast in wet, cool weather. Remove and destroy infected leaves right now. Do not compost them. Spray with fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, rotate your tomato plot next season — plant maize or cowpea instead to break the disease cycle.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have small brown spots with rings, what is happening?

Response: This is early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads upward. Remove and burn infected leaves today. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage and reduce disease spread.


Instruction: How come my tomato leaves get wet-looking spots that turn brown and plant die in days?

Response: This is late blight, a very serious disease. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn all infected parts immediately. Spray with chlorothalonil every week in rainy season. Also, avoid overhead watering — always water at the base of the plants.


Instruction: My tomato plant leaves have brown spots with yellow edges, what should I do?

Response: This is early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads upward. Remove and burn infected leaves today. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, plant on ridges next time to help water drain away.


Instruction: Wetin make my tomato leaves turn grey-green then brown and die so fast?

Response: This is late blight. It spreads very fast in wet, cool weather. Remove and destroy infected parts immediately. Spray with chlorothalonil every week in rainy season. Also, never water from above — always water at the base of the plants.


Instruction: Why my tomato plants have big brown spots and die so quick?

Response: This is likely blight disease. It attacks fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected leaves right now. Do not compost them. Spray with fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, rotate your tomato plot next season — plant maize or cowpea instead.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have small brown spots with rings, what is this?

Response: This is early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads upward. Remove and burn infected leaves today. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage.


Instruction: How come my tomato leaves get wet-looking spots that turn brown and plant die in days?

Response: This is late blight. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn all infected parts immediately. Spray with chlorothalonil every week in rainy season. Also, avoid overhead watering — always water at the base of the plants.


Instruction: How can I tell if fall armyworm is eating my maize?

Response: My friend, check your maize leaves for ragged holes that look like windowpanes. The thing is, the clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Look early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Scout 10-20 plants per field to be sure.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: It could be fall armyworm, my friend. Look for those ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That's the caterpillar's droppings. Check early morning or evening when they come out to feed.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to stop fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: First thing first, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. It's cheap and effective. Also, intercrop your maize with beans or soybean to reduce attack.


Instruction: How do I plant maize to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: Plant at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, one seed per hole. Intercrop with beans or soybean to reduce fall armyworm attack.


Instruction: Can I use chemicals to control fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: Yes, you can use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos. But first try neem-based sprays for young caterpillars. Always follow the label instructions carefully. For now, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl.


Instruction: How often should I check my maize for fall armyworm?

Response: Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out to feed. Scout 10-20 plants per field. Do this regularly to catch infestations early. Today, go and check your maize field.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: No need to panic. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill young caterpillars. For bigger infestations, use neem-based sprays. Always check early morning or evening when they come out to feed.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: Intercrop your maize with beans or soybean to reduce fall armyworm attack. Also, plant at the right time to avoid peak moth migration. Space your maize properly and apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits. Today, plan your intercropping.


Instruction: My maize leaves have ragged holes, what is happening?

Response: Those ragged holes could be from fall armyworm. Check inside the whorl for wet sawdust-like droppings. That's the caterpillar's droppings. Look early morning or evening when they come out to feed.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage fall armyworm in maize?

Response: First, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill young caterpillars. For bigger infestations, use neem-based sprays. Intercrop with beans or soybean to reduce attack. Always scout early morning or evening. Today, go and check your maize field.


Instruction: How can I save my plantain from bunchy top disease?

Response: My friend, I tell you the truth: there is no saving a plant with bunchy top. The moment you see the short, stiff leaves with dark streaks, chop it down immediately. Then inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This stops the virus from spreading. Today, check all your plantain plants for these symptoms.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and bunching up. How I go treat am?

Response: Ah, that sounds like bunchy top. No need to panic, but you must act fast. That disease has no cure, so first thing first: cut down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the plant completely so the virus cannot spread. Today, inspect all your plantains for these signs.


Instruction: What should I do if my plantain plants have dark green streaks on the leaves?

Response: Those dark green streaks turning yellow and brown are signs of bunchy top virus. There is no treatment, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading to other plants. Today, check all your plantains for these symptoms.


Instruction: How do I prevent bunchy top disease in my plantain farm?

Response: Prevention is key with bunchy top. First, never move suckers from a farm that had the disease. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Also, keep your farm clean and remove any wild banana plants that can host the virus. Today, check your plantain suckers for certification labels.


Instruction: What can I do to stop the spread of bunchy top on my farm?

Response: To stop the spread, you must remove infected plants immediately. Chop them down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Also, plant only certified clean suckers and keep your farm free of wild banana plants. Today, inspect all your plantains for bunchy top symptoms.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are stiff and crowded at the top. How I go treat dis one?

Response: That sounds like bunchy top virus. There is no treatment, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading. Today, check all your plantains for these signs.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage bunchy top disease in plantain?

Response: The best management is prevention. Plant only certified clean suckers and remove any infected plants immediately. Chop them down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Also, keep your farm clean and free of wild banana plants. Today, inspect your plantain suckers for certification labels.


Instruction: How can I protect my plantain farm from bunchy top?

Response: To protect your farm, plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Remove any infected plants immediately by chopping them down and injecting the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Also, keep your farm clean and free of wild banana plants. Today, check your plantain suckers for certification labels.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark streaks on my plantain leaves?

Response: Those dark streaks turning yellow and brown are signs of bunchy top virus. There is no cure, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading. Today, inspect all your plantains for these symptoms.


Instruction: How do I handle a plantain plant with bunchy top symptoms?

Response: If you see bunchy top symptoms, there is no treatment. You must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading. Today, check all your plantains for these signs.


Instruction: How can I tell early blight and late blight apart on my tomato plants?

Response: My friend, early blight shows dark brown spots with yellow halos on older leaves. Late blight causes greyish-green patches that turn brown fast. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause early blight and late blight for tomato?

Response: Early blight na because of Alternaria solani, while late blight na because of Phytophthora infestans. Both like wet, cool weather. First thing first, check your plants now and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: Is early blight or late blight more dangerous for my tomato plants?

Response: I tell you, late blight is more dangerous. It can destroy the whole plant in days during wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: How do the symptoms of early blight differ from late blight on tomato leaves?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and a yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes irregular greyish-green patches that turn brown fast. Inspect your plants now and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: Which blight spreads faster in wet weather, early or late blight?

Response: Late blight spreads much faster in wet weather. It can wipe out your farm in days. Check your plants today and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: How can I prevent both early and late blight in my tomato farm?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Avoid watering from above and rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea. Start rotating your plot this season.


Instruction: Why is it important to remove and destroy infected tomato leaves immediately?

Response: Removing and destroying infected leaves stops the disease from spreading fast. Bag and burn them, don't compost. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: What is the difference between early blight and late blight in how they affect tomato plants?

Response: Early blight starts on older leaves with dark brown spots and yellow halos. Late blight affects the whole plant with greyish-green patches that turn brown fast. Inspect your plants now and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: How can I manage both early and late blight in my tomato farm during the rainy season?

Response: Spray fungicide every week and avoid watering from above. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea. Start spraying fungicide this week.


Instruction: Which blight affects the whole tomato plant faster, early or late blight?

Response: Late blight affects the whole plant much faster, especially in wet weather. It can destroy your farm in days. Check your plants today and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: How can I tell if my plantain has bunchy top virus?

Response: My friend, bunchy top is easy to spot. Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks and dots along the veins that turn yellow then brown. The plant will stop growing properly and won't produce a bunch. If you see these signs, act fast — chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus spreading. Check your plants today.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause plantain bunchy top?

Response: The thing is, bunchy top is caused by a virus spread by banana aphids. These tiny insects carry the virus from sick plants to healthy ones. There's no cure, so prevention is key. Always plant certified clean suckers and never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Start checking your plants now for any signs.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: First thing first, plant your suckers at the start of the rainy season. This gives them the best chance to establish well. Space them at 3 metres by 3 metres to allow good airflow and easy harvesting. Don't forget to mulch heavily around the plants to keep moisture in and weeds out. Get your suckers ready for planting this week.


Instruction: How do I manage suckers on my plantain farm?

Response: Desuckering is very important. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat at any time. Remove any extra suckers to give the plant enough energy to grow properly. This also helps prevent overcrowding. Check your mats today and remove any extra suckers you see.


Instruction: Why is my plantain not producing a bunch?

Response: If your plantain isn't producing a bunch, it might be infected with bunchy top virus. Look for short, stiff leaves with dark green streaks and dots. If you see these signs, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus spreading. Check your plants now to be sure.


Instruction: Can I treat plantain bunchy top virus?

Response: No, my friend, there is no treatment for bunchy top virus. The moment you see symptoms, chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground so it cannot reshoot and keep hosting the virus. Start inspecting your plants today.


Instruction: How do I prevent bunchy top virus on my plantain farm?

Response: Prevention is key. Always plant certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Start sourcing clean suckers this week.


Instruction: What fertilizer is best for plantain?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Use a potassium-rich fertilizer to give your plants the nutrients they need. Apply it according to the label instructions carefully. Check your fertilizer supply and plan your application this week.


Instruction: How far apart should I space my plantain plants?

Response: Space your plantain plants at 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows good airflow between plants and makes harvesting easier. Proper spacing also helps prevent the spread of diseases. Measure your farm and plan your spacing today.


Instruction: Is it safe to use suckers from a farm that had bunchy top?

Response: No, my friend, it is not safe. The bunchy top virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Always plant certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. Start sourcing clean suckers this week.


Instruction: My friend, my rice leaves have got grey spots with brown edges. What no do make am worse?

Response: My friend, don't over-feed your rice with nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen is like giving food to the fungus. First thing first, go spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide today. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see my rice stalks are falling over before harvest. What I must not do?

Response: No need to panic. The thing is, you must not wait to spray fungicide. This is neck blast. You should have sprayed at boot stage before the panicle emerged. For next time, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series.


Instruction: What is the worst mistake I can make if I see rice blast on my farm?

Response: The worst mistake is waiting to treat it. Rice blast spreads fast. Don't delay, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide today. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, don't overcrowd your seedlings during transplanting.


Instruction: My rice farm has too much water sometimes and too little other times. How this bad for my rice?

Response: My friend, this is very bad. Rice blast loves when the field dries out and floods alternately. Maintain proper water levels in your paddy field. Keep it consistently wet but not flooded. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: I see small grey spots on my rice leaves. What no do make am spread?

Response: Don't ignore it. Those spots are rice blast. Don't wait, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide today. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, don't burn the rice straw after harvest. Burn it to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: What I must not do if my rice farm has high humidity and cool nights?

Response: You must not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Excess nitrogen feeds the fungus that causes rice blast. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the recommended nitrogen dose. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57.


Instruction: My rice leaves have got spindle-shaped lesions. What I must not do?

Response: Don't wait to treat it. Those are signs of rice blast. Don't delay, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide today. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, don't overcrowd your seedlings during transplanting.


Instruction: What is the worst thing to do if my rice stalks are falling over?

Response: The worst thing is to do nothing. This is neck blast and it's very damaging. Don't wait, spray fungicide today. For next time, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything.


Instruction: I see my rice leaves have grey centers with brown edges. What no do make am worse?

Response: Don't over-feed your rice with nitrogen fertilizer. Too much nitrogen is like giving food to the fungus. First thing first, go spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide today. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My rice farm has heavy dew in the morning. What I must not do?

Response: You must not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Excess nitrogen feeds the fungus that causes rice blast. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the recommended nitrogen dose. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like NERICA series.


Instruction: How should I plant maize to protect it from fall armyworm?

Response: My friend, first thing first: plant at the right time for your area. Space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, one seed per hole. This gives your maize strong roots and makes it harder for fall armyworm to spread. Today, check your planting calendar and mark the best time to plant.


Instruction: My maize leaves have ragged holes, wetin dey cause this?

Response: That might be fall armyworm, my friend. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Check early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. Today, go check 10-20 plants in your field.


Instruction: How can I treat fall armyworm without expensive chemicals?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it into the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays also work well in the first 2 weeks. Today, collect some sand and wood ash to prepare your mixture.


Instruction: What is the best way to fertilize maize for strong growth?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting, half when the maize reaches knee height. This gives your maize steady nutrients. Today, check your fertilizer supply and plan your split application.


Instruction: How can I stop fall armyworm from spreading to my whole farm?

Response: Intercrop your maize with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attacks significantly. Today, plan which part of your farm you will intercrop.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, leaves have ragged holes, how I go treat am?

Response: That sounds like fall armyworm. Check for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Use fine sand mixed with wood ash in the whorl to kill young caterpillars. Today, start scouting your field early morning or evening.


Instruction: What is the best spacing for maize to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: Space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, one seed per hole. This gives your maize strong roots and makes it harder for fall armyworm to spread. Today, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How can I tell if my maize has fall armyworm?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass inside the whorl — that is the caterpillar droppings. Today, go check your maize whorls carefully.


Instruction: What chemical can I use to treat fall armyworm?

Response: You can use emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. Always follow the label dosage carefully. Today, check your local agro-dealer for these chemicals.


Instruction: When should I harvest my maize to avoid post-harvest losses?

Response: Harvest promptly when the maize is dry. This avoids weevils and other storage pests. Today, check your maize and plan your harvest date.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize has fall armyworm?

Response: My friend, check your maize leaves for ragged holes that look like windowpanes. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. Today, go check 10-20 plants in your field.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: The thing is, if you see ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, it's likely fall armyworm. These caterpillars hide deep inside and feed at night. First thing first, check your plants early morning or evening.


Instruction: What are the signs of fall armyworm in maize?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass (droppings) inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Today, go check your maize plants.


Instruction: How can I control fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl to scratch and kill young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. For chemical options, use emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos — always follow label instructions carefully. Today, start scouting your field.


Instruction: How do I prevent fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: Plant maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Today, plan your planting schedule carefully.


Instruction: How do I apply sand and wood ash to control fall armyworm?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl of the maize plant. This mixture scratches and kills young caterpillars. Do this early in the morning or evening when caterpillars are more likely to be on the surface. Today, gather some fine sand and wood ash.


Instruction: What is the best time to scout for fall armyworm?

Response: The best time to scout for fall armyworm is early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field. Today, go out and inspect your maize plants.


Instruction: How do I apply neem-based sprays for fall armyworm control?

Response: Neem-based sprays work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Apply the spray directly to the leaves and whorl of the maize plant. Follow the label instructions carefully. Today, prepare your neem spray.


Instruction: How do I space my maize plants to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: Space your maize plants at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, with one seed per hole. This spacing helps reduce the spread of fall armyworm. Today, measure your spacing carefully.


Instruction: How do I harvest maize to avoid post-harvest losses?

Response: Harvest your maize promptly when it is dry to avoid weevils and post-harvest losses in storage. Today, check your maize for dryness and plan your harvest.


Instruction: My friend, I see my plantain leaves turning yellow and the plant is not growing tall. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like banana bunchy top virus. The thing is, there is no cure. First thing first, chop down the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This will stop the virus from spreading. Also, make sure you only plant certified clean suckers from disease-free sources in the future.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaves to look like stiff fingers at the top?

Response: Ah, that is bunchy top virus. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded because the virus stops the plant from growing properly. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so the virus does not spread. Always plant clean suckers to prevent this in the future.


Instruction: I have plantain with dark green streaks on the leaves. Is this normal?

Response: No, that is not normal. Those streaks are a sign of banana bunchy top virus. The leaves will turn yellow and brown later. The plant will not produce a bunch. There is no cure, so chop down the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground. Always plant certified clean suckers to avoid this problem.


Instruction: Can I save my plantain plant if the leaves are turning brown and the plant is not growing?

Response: I tell you, if the leaves are turning brown and the plant is not growing, it is likely bunchy top virus. There is no cure, so do not waste money on treatment. Chop down the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground. Always plant clean suckers to prevent this in the future.


Instruction: Is it okay to move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top virus?

Response: No, never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top virus. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. You will spread the virus to your new farm. Always plant certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. This is the only way to be sure.


Instruction: What should I do if my plantain plant has bunchy top virus?

Response: If your plantain plant has bunchy top virus, there is no cure. Chop down the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground. Always plant certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets to prevent this in the future.


Instruction: Can I treat bunchy top virus with any chemicals?

Response: No, there is no treatment for bunchy top virus. Do not waste money on chemicals. The moment you see symptoms, chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground. Always plant certified clean suckers to prevent this in the future.


Instruction: Is it safe to plant suckers from a farm that had bunchy top virus?

Response: No, it is not safe. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. You will spread the virus to your new farm. Always plant certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. This is the only way to be sure.


Instruction: What happens if I do not remove a plantain plant with bunchy top virus?

Response: If you do not remove a plantain plant with bunchy top virus, the virus will spread to other plants through banana aphids. The infected plant will never produce a bunch and it is a complete loss. Chop down the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground. Always plant certified clean suckers to prevent this in the future.


Instruction: Can I save a plantain plant that has bunchy top virus?

Response: No, you cannot save a plantain plant that has bunchy top virus. There is no cure. Chop down the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm underground. Always plant certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets to prevent this in the future.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange spots. How do I stop this disease from spreading?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. First thing first, do not panic. To stop it from spreading, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer — too much feeds the fungus. Use balanced NPK instead. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice plant to fall down before harvest?

Response: That is neck blast disease, my friend. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall over. To prevent this, spray fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. This week, check your water levels — keep the field consistently flooded.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast disease in my paddy field?

Response: To prevent rice blast, first plant resistant varieties like FARO 57 or NERICA. Do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting — proper spacing reduces disease pressure. Maintain proper water levels — do not let the field dry out and flood alternately. Use balanced NPK fertilizer, never more than the recommended nitrogen dose. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey centres with brown edges. How do I treat this?

Response: That is rice blast disease. To treat it, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer — too much feeds the fungus. Use balanced NPK instead. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: What should I do if my rice plants have diamond-shaped spots on the leaves?

Response: Those are signs of rice blast disease. To treat it, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer — too much feeds the fungus. Use balanced NPK instead. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: How do I stop my rice plants from falling over before harvest?

Response: That is neck blast disease. To stop it, spray fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. This week, check your water levels — keep the field consistently flooded.


Instruction: My rice crop has spindle-shaped lesions on the leaves. What do I do?

Response: That is rice blast disease. To treat it, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer — too much feeds the fungus. Use balanced NPK instead. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: Wetin I go do make my rice no fall down for farm?

Response: That is neck blast disease. To stop it, spray fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 or NERICA series. This week, check your water levels — keep the field consistently flooded.


Instruction: How can I protect my rice from disease?

Response: To protect your rice, first plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. Do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting — proper spacing reduces disease pressure. Maintain proper water levels — do not let the field dry out and flood alternately. Use balanced NPK fertilizer, never more than the recommended nitrogen dose. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: My rice leaves have white centres with reddish edges. How do I treat this?

Response: That is rice blast disease. To treat it, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer — too much feeds the fungus. Use balanced NPK instead. This week, burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaves turn yellow and curl like dis?

Response: Ah, those are signs of cowpea aphids, my friend. Those tiny black insects suck the life out of your plants. They leave behind sticky stuff that turns into black mould. You must act fast. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or use garlic spray. Remove the worst affected parts and burn them. Go and check your farm today, o.


Instruction: How can I prevent cowpea aphids from attacking my crop?

Response: My friend, prevention is better than cure. Intercrop your cowpea with maize in a 4:1 ratio. This will reduce aphid pressure. Also, plant early to avoid the dry season when aphids are most active. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. This week, plan your planting, o.


Instruction: Why do my cowpea plants have sticky leaves and black mould?

Response: Ah, that sticky stuff is called honeydew, my friend. Aphids produce it, and it encourages black sooty mould to grow. You must control the aphids first. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or use garlic spray. Remove and burn the worst affected parts. Go and check your farm today, o.


Instruction: What can I do if my cowpea farm is already heavily infested with aphids?

Response: If your farm is heavily infested, my friend, you must act fast. Remove and burn the worst affected parts. Then, spray neem oil mixed with soap or use garlic spray. If it's very bad, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide. But first, remove the worst parts. Go and check your farm today, o.


Instruction: When should I plant my cassava?

Response: My friend, plant your cassava at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants the best chance to grow strong and healthy. First thing first, check your local weather patterns and mark the planting date on your calendar.


Instruction: Wetin be d best time to harvest cassava?

Response: Harvest time depends on your variety and what you want to do with the cassava. For fresh eating, 9 to 12 months is good. For processing, wait until 15 to 18 months. Check your tubers regularly and harvest when they reach the right size.


Instruction: How often should I weed my cassava farm?

Response: Weed regularly for the first 3 months, especially in the early stages. After that, cassava grows tall and shades out most weeds. But don't relax completely — keep an eye out for any stubborn weeds that might pop up.


Instruction: When is the best time to apply fertilizer to cassava?

Response: Apply potassium fertilizer at planting time. Cassava can grow in poor soils, but a little potassium boost will help your tubers grow bigger and healthier. Follow the label instructions carefully when applying any fertilizer.


Instruction: Should I plant cassava now or wait for the rains?

Response: Wait for the rains, my friend. Planting at the start of the rainy season gives your cassava the best chance to establish strong roots. Mark your calendar and get ready to plant when the rains begin.


Instruction: How long does it take for cassava to mature?

Response: Cassava matures between 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you plan to do with it. For fresh eating, 9 to 12 months is good. For processing, wait until 15 to 18 months. Keep an eye on your plants and harvest when the tubers are the right size.


Instruction: When should I start controlling whiteflies in my cassava farm?

Response: Start controlling whiteflies as soon as you see them. These tiny insects spread cassava mosaic disease, which can ruin your harvest. Use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps to keep them under control. Check your plants regularly and act fast if you see any signs of whiteflies.


Instruction: Wetin I go do if my cassava don show mosaic symptoms?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading. Then, control the whiteflies that spread the disease with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Also, make sure to use disease-free planting stems next time.


Instruction: When can I stop weeding my cassava farm?

Response: You can ease up on weeding after the first 3 months. By then, your cassava plants should be tall enough to shade out most weeds. But still, keep an eye out for any stubborn weeds that might pop up and remove them as needed.


Instruction: How soon after planting can I expect to see cassava mosaic symptoms?

Response: You might see mosaic symptoms as early as 2 to 3 weeks after planting if the stems were infected. Look for yellow and green mosaic patterns, curling, and distortion on the leaves. If you see these signs, remove and destroy the plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown along the edges. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this could be bunchy top disease. The leaves get stiff, crowded at the top, and show dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. First thing first: chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain plant looks stunted and the leaves are crowded at the top. What is the problem?

Response: This sounds like bunchy top disease. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top of the plant. There is no cure, so chop the plant to the ground immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will kill the corm underground and stop the virus from spreading. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaves to turn brown and have dark green streaks?

Response: That is bunchy top disease. The dark green streaks turn yellow then brown. The plant will never produce a bunch. Chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are not growing properly and have dark green dots along the veins. What should I do?

Response: This is bunchy top disease. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top. There is no cure, so chop the plant to the ground immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will kill the corm underground and stop the virus from spreading. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: The leaves on my plantain plant are turning yellow and brown along the edges. What is the issue?

Response: This sounds like bunchy top disease. The leaves get stiff, crowded at the top, and show dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. There is no cure, so chop the plant to the ground immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will kill the corm underground and stop the virus from spreading. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: My plantain plant is not growing well and the leaves are crowded at the top. What is happening?

Response: This is bunchy top disease. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top. There is no cure, so chop the plant to the ground immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will kill the corm underground and stop the virus from spreading. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaves to turn brown and have dark green streaks?

Response: That is bunchy top disease. The dark green streaks turn yellow then brown. The plant will never produce a bunch. Chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are not growing properly and have dark green dots along the veins. What should I do?

Response: This is bunchy top disease. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top. There is no cure, so chop the plant to the ground immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will kill the corm underground and stop the virus from spreading. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: The leaves on my plantain plant are turning yellow and brown along the edges. What is the issue?

Response: This sounds like bunchy top disease. The leaves get stiff, crowded at the top, and show dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. There is no cure, so chop the plant to the ground immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will kill the corm underground and stop the virus from spreading. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: My plantain plant is not growing well and the leaves are crowded at the top. What is happening?

Response: This is bunchy top disease. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top. There is no cure, so chop the plant to the ground immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will kill the corm underground and stop the virus from spreading. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: How can I stop tomato blight from spreading in my farm?

Response: First thing first, my friend, you must remove and destroy any infected leaves or plants immediately. Put them in a bag and burn them — don't compost them. Then spray mancozeb, chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Also, avoid watering from above to keep the leaves dry. Today, go and check your plants carefully for any signs of blight.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: It could be blight, my friend. If you see dark brown spots with rings or water-soaked patches turning brown, that's blight. It spreads fast in wet weather. The thing is, you must act quickly. Remove the bad leaves and spray fungicide like mancozeb. Also, make sure your plants have good airflow. Check your farm today and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: What should I do if I see brown spots on my tomato leaves?

Response: Those brown spots could be early blight. It starts on the lower leaves and spreads quickly. First, remove and burn the infected leaves. Then spray a fungicide like mancozeb every week during the rainy season. Also, make sure you're not watering from above — water at the base of the plants. Today, go and remove any leaves with spots.


Instruction: How can I prevent tomato blight in my farm?

Response: To prevent blight, my friend, you must keep your plants dry. Avoid overhead watering and water at the base instead. Also, spray fungicide like mancozeb every 7 days during the rainy season. Rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Plant on raised beds for better drainage. This week, check your watering practices and start spraying fungicide if it's the rainy season.


Instruction: Why is it important to stake tomato plants?

Response: Staking keeps the fruits and leaves off the ground, which helps prevent diseases and pests. It also improves airflow around the plants. Space your plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows for good airflow. If you haven't staked your plants yet, do it when they reach 30 cm tall. Today, go and stake any plants that need it.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my tomatoes?

Response: You should harvest your tomatoes every 2 to 3 days. Leaving ripe fruits on the plant can attract pests and diseases. Regular harvesting also encourages more fruit production. If you haven't been harvesting regularly, start today and pick all the ripe tomatoes.


Instruction: What should I do if my tomato plants have water-soaked patches?

Response: Those water-soaked patches could be late blight, which is very dangerous. Remove and burn the infected parts immediately. Then spray a fungicide like mancozeb every week during the rainy season. Also, avoid overhead watering. Today, go and check your plants carefully and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: How can I improve airflow in my tomato farm?

Response: To improve airflow, space your plants at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. Also, stake or cage your plants to keep them off the ground. If your plants are too close together, thin them out. Today, go and check the spacing between your plants and thin them if needed.


Instruction: What fertilizer should I use for my tomato plants?

Response: Use a balanced NPK fertilizer at planting. When the first flowers appear, top-dress with calcium nitrate. This will help your plants grow strong and produce more fruits. If you haven't applied fertilizer yet, do it this week. Also, make sure to follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop my tomato plants from getting wet?

Response: Avoid overhead watering — water at the base of the plants instead. Also, plant on raised beds or ridges to improve drainage. This will help keep the leaves dry and reduce the risk of blight. If you've been watering from above, stop today and start watering at the base.


Instruction: How can I stop my groundnut from getting that small and bushy with yellow leaves?

Response: My friend, that sounds like groundnut rosette disease. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it's finished. You must remove it immediately to stop the disease spreading. First thing first, plant early at the start of rains next time. Also use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23. Ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties. This week, check your farm and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: My groundnut don spoil for farm, leaves turn yellow and plant no grow well wetin dey cause this?

Response: That sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by tiny insects called aphids. There's no cure, so you must remove infected plants immediately. To prevent it, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like RG 1 series. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds. This week, carefully check your plants and remove any that look sick.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to protect my groundnut from disease?

Response: The cheapest way is to plant early at the very start of rains. This helps you avoid the worst aphid populations that spread rosette disease. Also, always use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22. Another cheap method is to keep your farm very clean of weeds — aphids love weeds and will then move to your groundnut. This week, clear any weeds around your groundnut plants.


Instruction: How can I make sure my groundnut grows well without spending much money?

Response: Groundnut is not difficult. Plant in well-drained soil and space properly at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows. Use resistant varieties and plant early in the season. Don't add too much nitrogen — groundnut fixes its own nitrogen. This week, check your planting distances and adjust if needed.


Instruction: What should I do if my groundnut plants have yellow patches and are stunted?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease. Remove those plants immediately to stop the disease spreading. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control aphids. This week, carefully remove all affected plants from your farm.


Instruction: How can I prevent disease in my groundnut without spending much?

Response: The best way is to plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds — weeds attract aphids which spread the disease. Another cheap method is to treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. This week, clear any weeds around your groundnut plants.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and the plants are not growing well. What can I do?

Response: That sounds like groundnut rosette disease. Remove the affected plants immediately. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds. This week, carefully remove all sick plants from your farm.


Instruction: What is the best way to space groundnut plants to save seed?

Response: Space your groundnut plants at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows. This spacing helps control weeds and gives good canopy closure. It also helps you use fewer seeds. This week, check your planting distances and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How can I stop my groundnut from getting that disease with yellow leaves?

Response: That's groundnut rosette disease. To stop it, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds. Another good method is to treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. This week, clear any weeds around your groundnut plants.


Instruction: What should I do if my groundnut has small leaves and is not growing well?

Response: That sounds like groundnut rosette disease. Remove those plants immediately. For next season, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds. This week, carefully remove all affected plants from your farm.


Instruction: Greet the farmer and explain what FarmBot can help with

Response: Hello my friend! FarmBot is here to help you grow strong tomatoes. Ask me about diseases, pests, or how to care for your plants.


Instruction: Farmer notices dark spots on lower leaves and asks what is happening

Response: My friend, this could be early blight. You see those dark brown spots with rings and yellow edges on older leaves? That is the start. First thing first, remove those leaves and burn them. Do not compost. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain.


Instruction: Farmer says 'my tomato don spoil' and shows grey-green patches spreading quickly

Response: This is late blight, very dangerous! Those grey-green patches turn brown fast and can kill plants in days. Remove and burn infected parts now. Spray fungicide every 7 days. Next time, plant on ridges to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to prevent blight in the rainy season

Response: Wetin dey cause blight is wet, cool weather. To prevent, spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week. Water only at the base, not on leaves. Plant on ridges and rotate crops. Start this week before the rains come.


Instruction: Farmer wants to know how to space tomato plants for good health

Response: Space your plants 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. This gives good airflow to keep leaves dry. Stake them at 30 cm high to keep fruits off the ground. Do this when you plant next time.


Instruction: Farmer asks why they should harvest tomatoes every 2-3 days

Response: Leaving ripe fruits too long attracts pests and diseases. Harvest every 2-3 days to keep your plants healthy. Start this habit today and you will see the difference.


Instruction: Farmer notices plants wilting quickly and asks how to treat them

Response: This could be late blight in wet weather. Remove and burn infected parts now. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every week. Next time, plant on ridges and rotate crops to prevent this.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to fertilize tomatoes for best yield

Response: Use balanced NPK fertilizer at planting. When flowers appear, top-dress with calcium nitrate. This will give your plants strong growth and good fruits. Apply this next time you plant.


Instruction: Farmer wants to know why they should not plant tomatoes in the same plot twice

Response: Blight and other diseases stay in the soil. Rotate with maize or cowpea next season. This breaks the disease cycle and keeps your soil healthy. Plan your rotation now.


Instruction: Farmer asks how to water tomatoes to avoid disease

Response: Water only at the base, not on the leaves. Wet leaves invite blight. Use drip irrigation if possible. Start this practice today to keep your plants healthy.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes that look like windows. My friend says it's fall armyworm. How I go know if na so?

Response: Check your maize early morning or evening. If you see wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, that's the clearest sign. The caterpillars hide inside and feed at night. First thing first, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl to kill the young ones.


Instruction: What is the difference between fall armyworm damage and other pests on maize?

Response: Fall armyworm makes ragged, irregular holes in leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. The key sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Other pests usually don't leave this kind of mess. Check your maize early morning or evening to confirm. If you see the caterpillars, act fast to stop them.


Instruction: I see small caterpillars on my maize. How I go know if dem fall armyworm or just any caterpillar?

Response: The thing is, fall armyworm caterpillars hide deep inside the maize whorl and feed at night. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see these signs, it's likely fall armyworm. Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. If you confirm, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl to kill them.


Instruction: Why is fall armyworm worse than other maize pests?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads very fast, especially in warm weather. One female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs, so the pest can take over your farm quickly. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night, making them hard to spot. Scout your maize early morning or evening to catch them early. If you see signs, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: How does fall armyworm damage compare to bird damage on maize?

Response: Birds usually peck at the top of the maize plant, while fall armyworm makes ragged holes in the leaves. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl — that's the clearest sign of fall armyworm. Birds don't leave droppings like that. Check your maize early morning or evening to confirm. If it's fall armyworm, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: I hear fall armyworm is bad for maize. How I go prevent am?

Response: First thing first, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Space your plants well — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. Intercropping maize with beans or soybean can reduce fall armyworm attack. Also, scout your maize early morning or evening to catch the caterpillars early. If you see signs, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl to kill them.


Instruction: What is the difference between fall armyworm and stem borer damage on maize?

Response: Fall armyworm makes ragged holes in the leaves and leaves wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Stem borers bore into the stem, causing the plant to dry up from the inside. Look for entry holes and sawdust-like frass at the base of the plant for stem borers. If it's fall armyworm, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes, but no droppings. Is it fall armyworm?

Response: If you don't see wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, it might not be fall armyworm. Fall armyworm caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night, leaving droppings behind. Check your maize early morning or evening to confirm. If it's not fall armyworm, look for other signs of pests or diseases. If you see signs, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: How does fall armyworm spread so fast in warm weather?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads fast because one female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs. In warm weather, the eggs hatch quickly, and the caterpillars start feeding. The pest can take over your farm in no time. Scout your maize early morning or evening to catch them early. If you see signs, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars.


Instruction: I see small caterpillars on my maize leaves. Is it fall armyworm or just any caterpillar?

Response: Fall armyworm caterpillars hide deep inside the maize whorl and feed at night. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see these signs, it's likely fall armyworm. Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. If you confirm, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl to kill them.


Instruction: How do I stop fall armyworm from eating my maize?

Response: My friend, first thing first, check your maize early morning or evening when those caterpillars come out. Look for small holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl — that scratches and kills the young ones. You can also spray neem-based solution if the infestation is still fresh.


Instruction: My maize don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: The thing is, if you see ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, it's fall armyworm. Those caterpillars hide deep inside and feed at night. Check your maize early morning or evening and treat it quickly with sand and wood ash or neem spray.


Instruction: How can I protect my maize from fall armyworm?

Response: To protect your maize, plant at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Space your plants well — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. Also, intercrop with beans or soybean — that reduces fall armyworm attack a lot. Always check your maize early morning or evening for signs of the pest.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: If you find fall armyworm, no need to panic. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl — that scratches and kills the young caterpillars. If the infestation is fresh, neem-based sprays work well too. Always check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass (droppings) inside the whorl. Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. If you see these signs, treat immediately with sand and wood ash or neem spray.


Instruction: How can I treat fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: To treat fall armyworm, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl — that scratches and kills the young caterpillars. If the infestation is fresh, neem-based sprays work well. For severe cases, you can use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos — always follow the label dosage. Check your maize early morning or evening and treat quickly.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes, what can I do?

Response: If your maize leaves have ragged holes and you see wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, it's fall armyworm. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl — that scratches and kills the young caterpillars. Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out and treat immediately.


Instruction: How do I prevent fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: To prevent fall armyworm, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Space your plants well — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. Intercrop with beans or soybean — that reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Always check your maize early morning or evening for signs of the pest.


Instruction: What is the best way to control fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The best way to control fall armyworm is to catch it early. Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl — that scratches and kills the young caterpillars. For fresh infestations, neem-based sprays work well. Always treat quickly to avoid damage.


Instruction: How can I save my maize from fall armyworm?

Response: To save your maize from fall armyworm, check your plants early morning or evening for signs like ragged holes and wet sawdust-like droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl — that scratches and kills the young caterpillars. If the infestation is fresh, neem-based sprays work well. Treat quickly to save your maize.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant groundnut in my area?

Response: My friend, the best time is at the very start of the rains. This way, your groundnut plants grow strong before the aphids that spread rosette disease become too many. First thing first, check your local weather patterns and plant as soon as the rains begin.


Instruction: My groundnut don dey small small, no dey grow well. Why?

Response: This could be rosette disease, my friend. Infected plants stay small with yellow, bunched leaves. The thing is, there is no cure. You must remove and burn the infected plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Check your farm today and remove any small, yellow plants.


Instruction: When should I harvest my groundnut to avoid aflatoxin?

Response: Harvest before the heavy rains arrive. Wet pods easily get aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. Keep an eye on the weather and start harvesting as soon as the pods mature but before the big rains come.


Instruction: What is the best spacing for groundnut planting?

Response: Plant your groundnuts with 15 cm spacing within the row and 30 cm between rows. This helps the plants grow well and close the canopy to block weeds. Measure your spacing carefully when planting this week.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette disease?

Response: Plant early at the start of rains to avoid peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting. Weed your farm well to remove aphid hosts. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds.


Instruction: When should I apply nitrogen fertilizer to my groundnut?

Response: Do not apply too much nitrogen. Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen. Too much nitrogen makes the plant grow too many leaves and not enough pods. Focus on other nutrients and practices instead.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are yellow and bunched. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is likely rosette disease, my friend. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. There is no cure, so you must remove and burn the infected plants immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Check your farm today and remove any plants with yellow, bunched leaves.


Instruction: What should I do to avoid aflatoxin in my groundnut?

Response: Harvest before the heavy rains and dry the pods properly. Moisture above 9 percent causes aflatoxin, which is very dangerous. Keep an eye on the weather and start harvesting as soon as the pods mature.


Instruction: How can I tell if my groundnut has rosette disease?

Response: Look for severely stunted plants that stay small and bushy with yellowed or mottled bunched leaves. These plants are infected and will never recover. Remove and burn them immediately to stop the disease from spreading. Check your farm this week for any small, yellow plants.


Instruction: When is the best time to weed my groundnut farm?

Response: Weed your farm well, especially early in the season. Weeds host aphids which spread rosette disease. Keep your farm clean to protect your groundnuts. Check your farm this week and remove any weeds.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots that are not regular in shape. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose, a fungal disease. The thing is, it loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. This will help stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: My mango flowers are turning black and falling off. What is happening?

Response: Ah, this is blossom blight, caused by the same fungus that makes black spots on leaves. It kills flowers before fruit can set. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I harvested my mangoes, they looked fine but now they are turning black. What is this?

Response: This is anthracnose, my friend. The fungus was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. The disease shows up when the fruit ripens. Next time, handle fruits carefully when harvesting — no dropping or bruising. Also, store them in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango fruit get black spot wey dey expand fast?

Response: Na anthracnose cause am. The fungus don enter the fruit before you even harvest am. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering and every 10 days in rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: My mango tree has many dead branches. Should I remove them?

Response: Yes, my friend, you must remove dead wood. Prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation. This helps prevent fungal diseases like anthracnose. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit. This is the sign for most varieties. Harvest carefully, my friend — don't drop the fruits. Handle them gently to avoid wounds where fungus can enter.


Instruction: My mango fruits are developing sunken black spots. What should I do?

Response: This is anthracnose, my friend. The fungus is already inside the fruit. For next season, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and every 10 days during rains. Also, avoid overhead irrigation to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mango leaves and flowers. What is the solution?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove fallen leaves and fruits.


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black after 2 days. Why?

Response: This is anthracnose, my friend. The fungus was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. Handle fruits carefully when harvesting — no dropping or bruising. Store them in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: I have black spots on my mango leaves and flowers. What is the best treatment?

Response: This is anthracnose, caused by a fungus. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How can I stop my tomato plants from getting blight without spending too much money?

Response: My friend, first thing first, keep your plants strong and dry. Water only at the base, not on the leaves. Remove any sick leaves you see and burn them. Rotate your tomato plot next season with maize or cowpea. This costs little but saves big money from blight damage.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil for ground. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: This is blight, my friend. It happens when plants stay wet and cool. The thing is, blight spreads fast. Remove the bad leaves now and burn them. Next time, plant on raised beds so water drains away. Do this today before it spreads more.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to prevent tomato blight?

Response: The cheapest way is to keep your plants dry and healthy. Water only at the base, not on leaves. Remove and burn any sick leaves immediately. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. This costs little but stops blight from starting.


Instruction: How can I save my tomato plants from blight if I don't have much money for chemicals?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove and burn any leaves with spots. Water only at the base of plants, not on the leaves. Plant on raised beds so water drains away. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. These simple steps cost little but stop blight.


Instruction: What should I do if I see brown spots with rings on my tomato leaves?

Response: This is early blight. Remove the sick leaves and burn them immediately. Do not compost them. Water only at the base of plants, not on leaves. Next season, rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea. Do this today to stop the blight from spreading.


Instruction: How can I stop tomato blight without spending money on chemicals?

Response: Keep your plants dry and healthy. Water only at the base, not on leaves. Remove and burn any sick leaves immediately. Plant on raised beds so water drains away. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. These steps cost little but stop blight.


Instruction: My tomato leaves get wet spots that turn brown fast. How I go treat am?

Response: This is late blight, my friend. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn the bad leaves now. Water only at the base of plants, not on leaves. Next season, rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea. Do this today to save your plants.


Instruction: What is the best low-cost way to prevent tomato blight?

Response: The best low-cost way is to keep your plants dry. Water only at the base, not on leaves. Remove and burn any sick leaves immediately. Plant on raised beds so water drains away. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. These steps cost little but stop blight.


Instruction: How can I protect my tomato plants from blight if I don't have much money?

Response: No need to worry. First, remove and burn any leaves with spots. Water only at the base of plants, not on leaves. Plant on raised beds so water drains away. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. These simple steps cost little but stop blight.


Instruction: What can I do to stop tomato blight if I can't afford chemicals?

Response: Keep your plants dry and healthy. Water only at the base, not on leaves. Remove and burn any sick leaves immediately. Plant on raised beds so water drains away. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. These steps cost little but stop blight. Do this today to save your plants.


Instruction: What is rice blast?

Response: My friend, rice blast is a very bad fungus disease that attacks rice plants. It causes diamond-shaped spots on leaves and can even make the grain-bearing stalk fall over. This disease loves cool nights and too much water. The thing is, it can destroy up to 80% of your harvest if you don't control it early.


Instruction: How can I tell if my rice has blast disease?

Response: Check your leaves for diamond or spindle-shaped spots with grey centers and brown edges. If you see these, act fast. Also, look at the base of your rice stalks — if they're turning black and the plant falls over, that's neck blast, the worst kind.


Instruction: Why my rice plants keep falling over?

Response: My friend, if your rice plants are falling over, it's likely neck blast. This happens when the fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk. The thing is, this is the most damaging form of rice blast and can ruin your harvest if not controlled.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis blast for my rice farm?

Response: Rice blast is caused by a fungus called Magnaporthe oryzae. It loves cool nights, high humidity, and too much nitrogen fertilizer. The thing is, if you over-apply nitrogen, you're feeding the fungus directly. So, use balanced NPK fertilizer and never exceed the recommended nitrogen dose.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast on my farm?

Response: First thing first, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA series. Keep proper water levels in your paddy field and don't overcrowd seedlings during transplanting. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. And remember, never over-apply nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: What should I do if I see blast lesions on my rice leaves?

Response: Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide immediately — follow the label instructions carefully. Timing is everything, so act fast at the first sign of leaf lesions. Also, check your fertilizer use — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus.


Instruction: How can I stop neck blast from destroying my rice crop?

Response: To prevent neck blast, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. This is the best time to stop the fungus. Also, plant resistant varieties and avoid over-application of nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: Is it true that too much nitrogen fertilizer causes rice blast?

Response: Yes, that's true. Too much nitrogen fertilizer makes your rice plants more susceptible to blast disease. The fungus loves excess nitrogen, so never over-apply it. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the recommended doses carefully.


Instruction: What can I do to control rice blast on my farm this season?

Response: Start by planting blast-resistant varieties. Maintain proper water levels and avoid overcrowding seedlings. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. And most importantly, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions or at the boot stage to prevent neck blast.


Instruction: Why is rice blast so dangerous for my rice farm?

Response: Rice blast is very dangerous because it can reduce your grain yield by 70 to 80 percent in severe epidemic years. The fungus attacks leaves and stalks, and if not controlled, it can destroy your entire crop. So, act fast at the first sign of disease.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are looking funny, all crowded at the top and stiff. What could be wrong?

Response: My friend, this sounds like bunchy top virus. The leaves get stiff and crowded at the top, and you'll see dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. The thing is, there's no cure. First thing first: chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today before the virus spreads.


Instruction: I see my plantain leaves have strange dark green lines. Is this normal?

Response: No, those dark green lines along the veins and leaf edges are not normal. This is bunchy top virus. The leaves will turn yellow then brown, and the plant will never produce a bunch. Don't waste time — chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. This stops the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain plants are not growing well. The leaves are short and crowded. What is the problem?

Response: This sounds like bunchy top virus. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top of the plant. There is no treatment, so you must remove the infected plant immediately. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today to protect your other plants.


Instruction: I notice my plantain leaves have dark spots and are turning yellow. What is happening?

Response: Those dark spots and yellowing leaves are signs of bunchy top virus. The plant will stop growing properly and won't produce a bunch. There's no cure, so act fast. Chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this immediately to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are all bunched up at the top and look stiff. What do I do?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. The leaves get stiff and crowded at the top, and you'll see dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. There's no treatment, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today to protect your other plants.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don spoil, dem dey look like dem dey bunch up for top. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Na bunchy top virus dey cause am. The leaves go stiff and bunch up for top, and you go see dark green lines wey go turn yellow and brown. No cure for am, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do dis one today before the virus spread.


Instruction: I see my plantain leaves have strange lines and are turning brown. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, those strange lines and brown leaves are signs of bunchy top virus. The plant will stop growing and won't produce a bunch. There's no cure, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this immediately to protect your other plants.


Instruction: My plantain plants are not growing well. The leaves are short and have dark streaks. What should I do?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. The leaves become short, stiff, and have dark streaks that turn yellow then brown. There's no treatment, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: I notice my plantain leaves are all bunched up and have dark spots. What is wrong?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. The leaves get bunched up and have dark spots that turn yellow then brown. There's no cure, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this immediately to protect your other plants.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are looking funny, all crowded and stiff. What is the problem?

Response: This sounds like bunchy top virus. The leaves get crowded and stiff, and you'll see dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. There's no cure, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do this today to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots that are not regular in shape. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. The fungus loves wet weather and warm temperatures. First thing first, remove all infected leaves from the tree and burn them. Do not compost them. Also, clear all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: My mango tree flowers are dying before fruits can form. What is happening?

Response: This is blossom blight, a sign of mango anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers and kills them. To stop this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season.


Instruction: Why my mango fruits turn black just two days after harvest?

Response: Ah, this is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit but you could not see it. The thing is, once the fruit starts to ripen, the fungus spreads quickly. To prevent this, handle fruits with care during harvest. Do not drop them and store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: My mango tree has dark spots on leaves and flowers are dying. What can I do?

Response: You are seeing mango anthracnose. This fungus thrives in wet, warm weather. Prune your tree to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Also, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango fruits have dark sunken spots. What is causing this?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus enters the fruit and causes these spots. They expand rapidly after harvest as the fruit ripens. To prevent this, harvest fruits carefully and store them in a cool, dry place immediately. Do not let them get bruised or wounded.


Instruction: My mango tree leaves don spoil for nothing. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: This is mango anthracnose, my friend. The fungus causes dark brown irregular spots on leaves. To stop it, remove all infected leaves and burn them. Also, clear fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Do not compost them.


Instruction: What makes my mango fruits go black after picking?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit but you could not see it. When the fruit ripens, the fungus spreads quickly. Handle fruits with care during harvest. Do not drop them and store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: My mango tree flowers are dying before setting fruit. How I go treat am?

Response: This is blossom blight caused by mango anthracnose. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: Why my mango leaves have brown spots and flowers are dying?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus causes dark brown spots on leaves and kills flowers before fruits can form. To stop this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to remove dead wood and improve air circulation.


Instruction: My mango fruits don spoil for nothing after harvest. What is the problem?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit but you could not see it. When the fruit ripens, the fungus spreads quickly. Handle fruits with care during harvest. Do not drop them and store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant cowpea to avoid aphids?

Response: My friend, the best time to plant cowpea is early in the season. This way you escape the peak aphid populations that come during the dry season. First thing first, check your local weather patterns and plant as soon as the rains start.


Instruction: Why cowpea farmers no de plant cowpea for dry season?

Response: Na because of the dry season aphid problem, my friend. During dry season, aphids are everywhere and they go spoil your cowpea. The thing is, if you plant early when the rains start, your cowpea will grow strong before the aphids become too many. So, no need to panic, just plant on time.


Instruction: How can I time my cowpea planting to avoid aphid problems?

Response: To avoid aphid problems, you must plant your cowpea early in the season. This way, your plants will grow strong before the aphids become too many. Also, if you plant early, you can harvest before the peak of the dry season when aphids are most troublesome. So, check your local weather patterns and plant as soon as the rains start.


Instruction: When should I apply neem oil spray to protect my cowpea from aphids?

Response: You should start applying neem oil spray as soon as you see the first signs of aphids on your cowpea plants. The thing is, aphids multiply very fast, so you must act quickly. Mix neem oil with soap and spray it on the affected parts of the plant. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaf curl and yellow?

Response: That one na aphid problem, my friend. Aphids suck sap from the plant, causing stunted growth, leaf curl, and yellowing. They also spread viruses, so even a small infestation is a big threat. First thing first, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the aphids from spreading.


Instruction: Is it better to plant cowpea alone or with other crops to avoid aphids?

Response: It is better to intercrop cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This helps to reduce aphid pressure. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. The thing is, intercropping and proper spacing can help protect your cowpea from aphids.


Instruction: How often should I check my cowpea plants for aphids?

Response: You should check your cowpea plants for aphids at least twice a week. The thing is, aphids multiply very fast, so you must catch them early. Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects clustering on young shoots, flowers, and pods. If you see any, act quickly to control them.


Instruction: When is the best time to apply dimethoate foliar spray on cowpea?

Response: You should only use dimethoate foliar spray as a last resort, my friend. First, try natural methods like neem oil spray or garlic spray. If the aphid infestation is too severe, then you can use dimethoate. Follow the label instructions carefully and apply it in the early morning or late evening.


Instruction: Why my cowpea leaves get sticky and turn black?

Response: That one na because of the honeydew that aphids produce, my friend. The sticky substance encourages black sooty mould to grow on the leaves, blocking sunlight. First thing first, control the aphids using neem oil spray or garlic spray. Remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: How can I time my cowpea planting to benefit from natural enemies of aphids?

Response: To benefit from natural enemies of aphids, you must plant your cowpea early in the season. This way, your plants will grow strong before the aphids become too many. Natural enemies like ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps will help control the aphid population. So, plant on time and protect these natural enemies.


Instruction: My friend, how for I go know say cowpea aphid don attack my farm?

Response: My friend, look for small shiny black or brown insects on young shoots, flowers and pods. If you see leaves curling, yellowing or wilting, that's a sign. Check the underside of leaves too. First thing first, remove and burn those infested parts right away to stop the spread.


Instruction: What causes cowpea leaves to turn yellow and wilt?

Response: Yellowing and wilting can be from cowpea aphids sucking sap from the plant. These tiny black or brown insects cluster on young parts and spread viruses. Check your plants carefully. If you see them, start treating with neem oil spray mixed with soap today.


Instruction: How can I prevent cowpea aphids from spreading to my farm?

Response: First, don't plant your cowpea downwind or next to already infested farms. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Also, protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies — they eat aphids.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause sticky substance for my cowpea leaves?

Response: That sticky stuff is called honeydew, and it comes from cowpea aphids. They suck sap and leave this sticky mess behind. It encourages black sooty mould to grow on leaves, blocking sunlight. Wash off the honeydew with water and treat the aphids with garlic spray or neem oil.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are stunted and leaves are curling. What is wrong?

Response: Stunted growth and leaf curl are signs of cowpea aphid attack. These small black or brown insects suck sap and spread viruses. Check your plants carefully. If you find them, start treating with pyrethrin-based insecticide or neem oil spray mixed with soap.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from spreading to other plants?

Response: First, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts immediately. Don't let them spread to the whole farm. Treat the remaining plants with neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, protect natural enemies like parasitic wasps — they help control aphids.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage cowpea aphids organically?

Response: Use neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray to control aphids. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread. Protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies — they feed on aphids. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: My cowpea farm has black mould on leaves. What is happening?

Response: Black mould is called sooty mould, and it grows on the sticky honeydew that cowpea aphids leave behind. Wash off the mould with water and treat the aphids with neem oil spray mixed with soap. Remove heavily infested parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: How can I prevent cowpea aphids from attacking my farm next season?

Response: Plant early to escape peak aphid populations in the dry season. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Also, protect natural enemies like hoverflies — they help control aphids.


Instruction: What should I do if I see small black insects on my cowpea flowers?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, and they're dangerous. They spread viruses and suck sap, causing stunted growth and leaf curl. First thing first, remove and burn the infested flowers. Then treat the remaining plants with neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray.


Instruction: My friend, how I go prevent cassava mosaic disease without spending too much money?

Response: First thing first, use stems from healthy plants only. This is the cheapest way to prevent mosaic. Also, watch for whiteflies and control them with neem spray or yellow sticky traps. You can make neem spray yourself from neem leaves. Today, check your plants for any signs of yellow and green mosaic patterns.


Instruction: My cassava leaves get yellow and green spots with curling. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is cassava mosaic disease. It is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, if you don't act fast, your tubers will be small and deformed. Today, remove and destroy any infected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: What is the best spacing for cassava to save on weeding costs?

Response: Plant your cassava 1 metre by 1 metre apart. This spacing makes weeding easier and gives your plants room to grow well. After the first 3 months, cassava shades out most weeds, so you won't need to weed as much. Today, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How can I make sure my cassava grows well without spending much on fertilizer?

Response: Cassava can grow in poor soil, but it likes potassium. If you have access to wood ash, you can use it as a cheap source of potassium. Also, mounding the soil before planting improves drainage and tuber size. Today, check if you have any wood ash or other organic matter to add to your soil.


Instruction: I no dey like spend much money for farm. How I go plant cassava for cheap?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season so the plants establish well without much care. Use stems from healthy plants to avoid diseases. Weed regularly for the first 3 months, then the cassava will shade out weeds. Today, prepare your farm and plant at the right time.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to control whiteflies on my cassava?

Response: Neem leaves make a cheap and effective spray to control whiteflies. You can also use yellow sticky traps around your farm. These methods are low-cost and easy to make. Today, gather neem leaves or make sticky traps to start controlling whiteflies.


Instruction: How do I know when to harvest my cassava to get the best price?

Response: Harvest time depends on your variety and what you want to use the cassava for. Generally, you can harvest between 9 to 18 months. For fresh market, harvest earlier for sweeter tubers. Today, check your cassava plants and plan your harvest time.


Instruction: My cassava farm get mosaic disease. How I go stop it spread cheaply?

Response: Remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Do not compost them. Also, control whiteflies with neem spray or yellow sticky traps. These methods are cheap and effective. Today, remove any infected plants and start controlling whiteflies.


Instruction: What is the best way to prepare my soil for cassava without spending much?

Response: Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. If you have wood ash, add it to the soil as a cheap source of potassium. Cassava can grow in poor soil, but it responds well to good drainage. Today, prepare your soil by mounding and adding any organic matter you have.


Instruction: How I go make sure my cassava stems no carry mosaic disease?

Response: Use stems from healthy plants only. Do not use stems from a farm that had mosaic disease. The virus travels with the stem. Today, check your stems and make sure they are from healthy plants.


Instruction: When should I plant groundnut to avoid rosette disease?

Response: My friend, plant your groundnut very early at the very start of rains. This helps escape the peak aphid populations that spread rosette disease later in the season. Check your calendar and prepare your field this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: Why is early planting important for groundnut?

Response: Early planting helps your groundnut grow strong before the worst aphid attacks. These aphids spread rosette disease which can destroy your crop. The thing is, young plants suffer most — so get them in the ground early. Check your local planting calendar and prepare your field this week if you haven't.


Instruction: My groundnut don spoil with small leaves and yellow patches. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: This sounds like rosette disease, my friend. It's caused by aphids spreading a deadly virus. There's no cure once plants get it — you must remove infected plants immediately. Check your field now and pull out any plants with these symptoms. Also, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23 next season.