Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from destroying my crop?

Response: My friend, first thing first — don’t panic. Rice blast is serious but you can fight it. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away if you see those diamond-shaped spots on leaves. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the panicle shows. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. This week, check your fields for early signs and apply the right fungicide.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey spots with brown edges. What is this?

Response: That sounds like rice blast, a nasty fungus disease. The grey spots with brown edges are classic signs. If not treated, it can destroy your crop. Spray a fungicide like isoprothiolane at once. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer — too much feeds the fungus. Reduce it and keep your fields well-watered but not flooded.


Instruction: How I go prevent rice blast for next season?

Response: To prevent rice blast, start by planting resistant varieties like FARO 57. Also, don’t overcrowd your seedlings when transplanting. Proper spacing helps reduce disease. After harvest, burn the rice straw to destroy fungal spores. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never exceed the recommended nitrogen dose. These steps will help protect your crop next season.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice stalks to fall over?

Response: That’s neck blast, a bad form of rice blast disease. It attacks the base of the stalk, making it fall over. It’s caused by the same fungus that makes diamond-shaped spots on leaves. To stop it, spray fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties and avoid too much nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: My rice field has too much nitrogen. What will happen?

Response: Excess nitrogen is like feeding the rice blast fungus directly. It will make the disease worse. Too much nitrogen also causes weak stalks and poor grain quality. Reduce the nitrogen dose and use balanced NPK fertilizer. This will help your rice grow stronger and reduce disease pressure.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice has blast disease?

Response: Look for diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped spots on the leaves with grey or white centres and brown or reddish edges. If you see these, it’s rice blast. Neck blast attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall over. Check your fields regularly for these signs. If you see them, spray fungicide immediately.


Instruction: Can I save my rice if it has blast disease?

Response: Yes, you can save your rice if you act fast. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like NERICA series. Check your fields this week and apply the right fungicide if needed.


Instruction: Why is my rice crop falling over?

Response: That’s neck blast, a severe form of rice blast disease. It attacks the base of the stalk, making it fall over. To stop it, spray fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties and avoid too much nitrogen fertilizer. Check your fields regularly for early signs.


Instruction: How do I manage rice blast in my field?

Response: To manage rice blast, start by planting resistant varieties like FARO 52. Spray fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Maintain proper water levels and avoid overcrowding seedlings. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Follow these steps to protect your crop.


Instruction: My rice leaves have brown spots. Is this blast disease?

Response: Those brown spots could be rice blast. Look for diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions with grey or white centres and brown or reddish edges. If you see these, it’s rice blast. Spray fungicide immediately and check your nitrogen fertilizer — too much feeds the fungus. Reduce it and keep your fields well-watered but not flooded.


Instruction: What is rice blast disease?

Response: Rice blast is a very dangerous disease caused by a fungus. It makes diamond-shaped spots on leaves and can cause the rice stalk to fall over. This is very bad for your harvest. The thing is, it loves cool nights and too much nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: When should I spray fungicide for rice blast?

Response: First thing first, spray fungicide at the first sign of leaf spots. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the panicle comes out. Timing is everything my friend. Use tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole and follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How I go prevent rice blast?

Response: To prevent rice blast, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA. Keep your field properly flooded and do not over-apply nitrogen. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and burn rice straw after harvest. This will help destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: My rice leaves don get small brown spots, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Those small brown spots could be rice blast disease. It is caused by a fungus that loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. Spray fungicide like tricyclazole at the first sign of spots and follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: When should I burn rice straw after harvest?

Response: Burn rice straw right after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Do not wait too long. This will help prevent rice blast disease next season. But remember, burning should be done carefully to avoid harming the environment.


Instruction: What is the best time to apply nitrogen fertilizer?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer at the right time and never over-apply. Too much nitrogen feeds the rice blast fungus. Follow the recommended dose and use balanced NPK fertilizer. This will help your rice grow strong and healthy.


Instruction: How I go know if my rice has neck blast?

Response: Neck blast attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk. You will see the stalk fall over. This is the most damaging form of rice blast. To prevent it, spray fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything my friend.


Instruction: When should I transplant rice seedlings?

Response: Transplant rice seedlings when they are about 25-30 days old. Do not overcrowd them. Proper spacing reduces disease pressure. This will help your rice grow strong and healthy. Plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA for better protection.


Instruction: Can rice blast reduce my yield?

Response: Yes, rice blast can reduce your yield by 70 to 80 percent in severe years. To prevent this, plant resistant varieties, maintain proper water levels, and do not over-apply nitrogen. Spray fungicide at the first sign of leaf spots. This will help protect your harvest.


Instruction: How I go stop fall armyworm for my maize?

Response: My friend, first thing first, check your maize early morning or evening. Look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you find them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put inside the whorl. This will scratch and kill the young caterpillars. You can also spray neem-based solution if the infestation is small. Start treating today before the caterpillars grow bigger.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant maize to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: The thing is, fall armyworm spreads fast in warm weather. Plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Space your plants well — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. This helps control the pest. Also, intercrop with beans or soybean. It reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Start planning your planting this week.


Instruction: My maize leaves don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, my friend, it sounds like fall armyworm. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see these signs, act fast. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. Do this today before the pest spreads more.


Instruction: How can I save my maize from fall armyworm without spending much?

Response: No need to panic. Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. If you find them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This is a cheap and effective way to kill young caterpillars. Start treating your maize today.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to control fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The cheapest way is to use fine sand mixed with wood ash. Put this mixture inside the maize whorl. It scratches and kills the young caterpillars. You can also use neem-based sprays for young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Start treating your maize this week.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize has fall armyworm?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes. Check inside the whorl for wet sawdust-like droppings. This is the clearest sign of fall armyworm. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. If you find them, act fast to control the pest.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: Plant your maize at the right time to avoid peak moth migration. Space your plants well — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. Intercrop with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Start planning your planting this week.


Instruction: My maize is dying, what is the problem?

Response: It could be fall armyworm. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see these signs, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. Start treating your maize today.


Instruction: How I go treat fall armyworm for my maize cheaply?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the maize whorl. This scratches and kills the young caterpillars. It is a cheap and effective method. Start treating your maize this week before the pest spreads more.


Instruction: What is the best practice for planting maize to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: Plant at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Space your plants well — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. Intercrop with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Start planning your planting this week.


Instruction: Greet the farmer and explain FarmBot's purpose

Response: Hello my friend! Welcome to FarmBot. We help smallholder farmers like you grow better plantain and other crops. Ask me anything about your plantain farm today!


Instruction: What is causing my plantain leaves to look bunched up and stiff at the top?

Response: Oh no, my friend! This is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves get short and crowded at the top, with dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. The plant will never produce a bunch — it is a complete loss. First thing first: chop the infected plant to the ground right now and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: My plantain leaves have dark green streaks and dots along the veins. What is this?

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The streaks will turn yellow then brown. The plant will never grow properly or produce a bunch. There is no cure, so do not waste money on treatment. The moment you see symptoms: chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaves go turn like dis? Dey small, stiff, and bunch up for top

Response: This is banana bunchy top virus. The leaves become short, stiff, and crowded at the top. The plant will never produce a bunch. There is no cure, so do not waste money on treatment. The moment you see symptoms: chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: Can I treat banana bunchy top virus with chemicals?

Response: No, my friend, there is absolutely no cure for bunchy top. Do not waste money on treatment. The moment you see symptoms: chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This stops the virus from spreading.


Instruction: How can I prevent banana bunchy top virus on my plantain farm?

Response: First, never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top — the virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Always plant only certified clean suckers from disease-free sources or tissue culture plantlets. Also, keep your farm clean and remove any infected plants immediately.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: The best time to plant plantain suckers is at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants enough water to establish well. Make sure to space them at 3 metres by 3 metres for good airflow and easy harvesting.


Instruction: How many suckers should I keep per mat?

Response: Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat at any time. This is called desuckering and it helps the plant grow better. Remove any extra suckers to give the main plants more space and nutrients.


Instruction: What type of fertilizer is best for plantain?

Response: Plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Apply potassium-rich fertilizer to help your plants grow strong and produce good bunches. Follow the label instructions carefully when applying any fertilizer.


Instruction: How can I keep my plantain farm clean and healthy?

Response: Mulch heavily around your plants to retain moisture and suppress weeds. Also, keep an eye out for any signs of disease. The moment you see symptoms of bunchy top: chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and curling up. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cowpea aphids. They suck sap from leaves making them yellow and curl. Check the undersides of leaves for tiny black or brown insects. First thing first, spray neem oil mixed with soap on affected plants. This will help control the aphids and protect your crop.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea flowers. The leaves have black sticky stuff. How I go treat am?

Response: Ah, those small black insects are cowpea aphids. The sticky black stuff is honeydew they produce, which causes black sooty mould. You must act fast! Spray garlic spray or pyrethrin-based insecticide on the plants. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the aphids from spreading.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are not growing well. The leaves are wilting. What is the problem?

Response: Wilted leaves and stunted growth are signs of cowpea aphids. These tiny pests suck sap from the plants, causing them to weaken. Check for clusters of small black or brown insects on young shoots and flowers. To help your plants, spray neem oil mixed with soap. This will control the aphids and help your cowpeas recover.


Instruction: I see tiny black bugs on my cowpea pods. The plants are not doing well. What can I do?

Response: Those tiny black bugs are cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the pods and spread viruses. No need to panic, but you must act quickly. Spray garlic spray or pyrethrin-based insecticide on the plants. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the aphids from spreading. This will help your cowpeas recover.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have black mould. The plants look weak. What is the cause?

Response: The black mould is sooty mould, caused by the sticky honeydew that cowpea aphids produce. These aphids suck sap from the plants, weakening them. Check for clusters of small black or brown insects on young shoots and flowers. To help your plants, spray neem oil mixed with soap. This will control the aphids and help your cowpeas recover.


Instruction: I see small brown insects on my cowpea flowers. The leaves are turning yellow. What is the issue?

Response: Those small brown insects are cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the leaves, causing them to turn yellow. You must act fast! Spray neem oil mixed with soap on the plants. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the aphids from spreading. This will help your cowpeas recover.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are not growing. The leaves are curling. What is the problem?

Response: Leaf curl and stunted growth are signs of cowpea aphids. These tiny pests suck sap from the leaves, causing them to curl and the plants to weaken. Check for clusters of small black or brown insects on young shoots and flowers. To help your plants, spray neem oil mixed with soap. This will control the aphids and help your cowpeas recover.


Instruction: I see tiny black bugs on my cowpea shoots. The leaves are wilting. What can I do?

Response: Those tiny black bugs are cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the shoots, causing the leaves to wilt. No need to panic, but you must act quickly. Spray garlic spray or pyrethrin-based insecticide on the plants. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the aphids from spreading. This will help your cowpeas recover.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have black spots. The plants look weak. What is the cause?

Response: The black spots are sooty mould, caused by the sticky honeydew that cowpea aphids produce. These aphids suck sap from the plants, weakening them. Check for clusters of small black or brown insects on young shoots and flowers. To help your plants, spray neem oil mixed with soap. This will control the aphids and help your cowpeas recover.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea plants. The leaves are turning yellow and wilting. What is happening?

Response: Those small black insects are cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the leaves, causing them to turn yellow and wilt. You must act fast! Spray neem oil mixed with soap on the plants. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the aphids from spreading. This will help your cowpeas recover.


Instruction: My friend, how I go prevent the black spots on my mango leaves?

Response: My friend, this is anthracnose disease. First thing first, you must prune your mango tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Also remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. They carry the fungus that causes this problem. Avoid overhead irrigation too — it keeps the leaves wet for too long. You can start pruning today if you haven't done so already.


Instruction: What can I do to stop my mango flowers from dying before setting fruit?

Response: This is blossom blight, caused by anthracnose fungus. To prevent it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove fallen leaves and flowers. You can start pruning today if you haven't done so already.


Instruction: How can I prevent my mangoes from rotting after harvest?

Response: The thing is, the fungus that causes anthracnose can already be inside the fruit before you harvest. To prevent rot, handle the fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter. Harvest carefully, do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. You can start by checking your harvesting methods today.


Instruction: My mangoes are getting black spots after harvest. What is the cause and how can I prevent this?

Response: This is anthracnose disease. The fungus was already inside the fruit before harvest. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, handle the fruits with extreme care during harvest and storage. You can start by checking your spraying schedule today.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to harvest to prevent disease?

Response: For most varieties, a slight colour change at the tip is the sign of maturity. Harvest at this stage and handle the fruits with extreme care. Do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. You can start by checking your mangoes for this colour change today.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage anthracnose in my mango orchard?

Response: To manage anthracnose, prune your mango trees after every harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. You can start pruning today if you haven't done so already.


Instruction: Why my mango fruits don spoil after harvest?

Response: The fungus that causes anthracnose can already be inside the fruit before you harvest. To prevent spoilage, handle the fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter. Harvest carefully, do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. You can start by checking your harvesting methods today.


Instruction: How can I prevent the spread of anthracnose in my mango orchard?

Response: To prevent the spread, prune your mango trees after every harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly — they carry the fungus. Also, avoid overhead irrigation which keeps foliage wet for too long. You can start pruning today if you haven't done so already.


Instruction: What should I do to keep my mango trees healthy and prevent disease?

Response: To keep your mango trees healthy, prune them after every harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation which keeps the leaves wet for too long. You can start pruning today if you haven't done so already.


Instruction: How can I ensure my mangoes stay healthy from the tree to the market?

Response: To ensure your mangoes stay healthy, handle the fruits with extreme care during harvest and storage. Wounds and bruises let the fungus enter. Harvest carefully, do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. You can start by checking your harvesting methods today.


Instruction: How can I tell if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: My friend, check for ragged holes in leaves that look like windowpanes. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field to be sure.


Instruction: My maize leaves have strange holes, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, that sound like fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. The holes look like windowpanes with light through them. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That is the clearest sign.


Instruction: What is the best way to space maize plants to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: First thing first, plant maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Space the plants at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, one seed per hole. This spacing helps reduce fall armyworm attacks.


Instruction: How can I control fall armyworm without expensive chemicals?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars cheaply. Neem-based sprays also work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly.


Instruction: When should I apply nitrogen fertilizer to my maize?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting, half at knee height. This helps the maize grow strong and healthy. Don't apply all at once, my friend.


Instruction: How fast does fall armyworm spread in warm weather?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather. One female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs. So, scout your field regularly, especially early morning or evening when caterpillars come to the surface.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: No need to panic. Mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. For bigger infestations, use neem-based sprays or chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — always follow label dosage.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest maize promptly when dry?

Response: Harvesting maize promptly when dry avoids weevils and post-harvest losses in storage. The thing is, weevils love damp maize and will ruin your harvest if you don't store it dry.


Instruction: How can I reduce fall armyworm attacks in my maize field?

Response: Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Also, plant at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. This helps a lot, I tell you.


Instruction: What chemical options are there for controlling fall armyworm in maize?

Response: For chemical options, you can use emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos. But always follow the label dosage carefully. If the infestation is small, try neem-based sprays first.


Instruction: How can I grow cowpea without spending much money on chemicals?

Response: My friend, the best way is to use what nature gives us. Plant your cowpea early in the season before the aphids get too many. Mix cowpea with maize at 4 plants of maize to 1 plant of cowpea. This will help keep the aphids away. If you see aphids, make a spray with neem oil and soap. This will cost you very little but work well. Check your plants often and remove any bad parts so the aphids don't spread.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and sticky. What is happening?

Response: Ah, this sounds like aphids. These tiny black or brown insects suck the sap from your plants, leaving them weak and yellow. The sticky stuff is their waste, which makes black mould grow on the leaves. First thing first, mix neem oil with soap and spray it on your plants. Also, look for tiny ladybirds or wasps—they eat aphids! Protect them, they are your helpers.


Instruction: How I go treat cowpea wey don get small black insects all over the leaves?

Response: Wetin you dey see na cowpea aphids. Dem small black insects suck the life out of your plants, making them weak and yellow. The thing is, you no need to panic. Make a spray with neem oil and soap, or crush garlic and mix with water. Spray this on your plants early in the morning. Also, check your farm often and remove any bad parts so the aphids no go spread.


Instruction: Can I plant cowpea next to my maize farm to save space?

Response: Yes, you can! Planting cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio is a good idea. This helps keep aphids away and saves space. Cowpea also fixes nitrogen in the soil, making the land better for the next crop. Just make sure you plant early in the season before the aphids get too many.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black mould on my cowpea leaves?

Response: Black mould on cowpea leaves is a sign of aphids. These tiny insects leave sticky waste called honeydew, which makes the mould grow. First, spray your plants with neem oil and soap. Also, look for tiny ladybirds or wasps—they eat aphids! Protect them, they are your helpers. Check your farm often and remove any bad parts so the aphids no go spread.


Instruction: Is it true that planting cowpea early helps prevent aphid problems?

Response: Yes, it is true! Planting cowpea early in the season helps escape the peak aphid populations that come in the dry season. This gives your plants a better chance to grow strong before the aphids become a big problem. Also, mix cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Check your plants often and remove any bad parts so the aphids no go spread.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are small and not growing well. What could be the problem?

Response: This could be because of cowpea aphids. These tiny insects suck the sap from your plants, making them weak and stunted. The thing is, you no need to panic. Make a spray with neem oil and soap, or crush garlic and mix with water. Spray this on your plants early in the morning. Also, look for tiny ladybirds or wasps—they eat aphids! Protect them, they are your helpers.


Instruction: Can I use natural methods to control aphids on my cowpea farm?

Response: Yes, you can! Natural methods are often the best and cheapest. Mix neem oil with soap and spray it on your plants. You can also make a garlic spray by crushing garlic and mixing it with water. These sprays will help control the aphids without spending much money. Also, look for tiny ladybirds or wasps—they eat aphids! Protect them, they are your helpers.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent aphids on my cowpea farm?

Response: The best way is to plant early in the season before the aphids get too many. Also, mix cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Check your plants often and remove any bad parts so the aphids no go spread. If you see aphids, make a spray with neem oil and soap. This will cost you very little but work well.


Instruction: How can I save my cowpea farm from tiny black insects that are making the leaves sticky?

Response: Those tiny black insects are cowpea aphids. They suck the sap from your plants and leave sticky waste called honeydew. This makes black mould grow on the leaves. First, spray your plants with neem oil and soap. Also, look for tiny ladybirds or wasps—they eat aphids! Protect them, they are your helpers. Check your farm often and remove any bad parts so the aphids no go spread.


Instruction: How can I stop this tomato blight from spreading to my other plants?

Response: My friend, first thing first — pick all the bad leaves with spots right now and burn them in a bag. Don't compost them! Then spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Water only at the base of plants, not on the leaves. This will help stop the blight from spreading.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil with brown spots, wetin dey cause this?

Response: This could be early blight. It starts with brown spots on lower leaves. The thing is, it spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn the bad leaves today. Spray fungicide every week during rain. Also, don't water the leaves — only water at the base.


Instruction: What should I do if my tomato plants have grey-green patches that turn brown quickly?

Response: That sounds like late blight, my friend. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First, remove and burn all infected leaves and plants. Then spray copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage.


Instruction: How can I prevent tomato blight in my farm?

Response: To prevent blight, spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, avoid watering the leaves — always water at the base. Rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. This will help stop the blight from coming back.


Instruction: Why is my tomato plant getting spots and then dying so fast?

Response: This could be blight, my friend. It spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn all bad leaves today. Spray fungicide every week during rain. Also, plant on raised beds next time to help prevent it.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato plants have blight?

Response: Check the lower leaves first. Early blight has brown spots with rings and yellow halos. Late blight has grey-green patches that turn brown fast. If you see these, remove and burn the bad leaves right away. Then spray fungicide every week during rain.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage tomato blight in my farm?

Response: First, remove and burn all infected leaves and plants. Then spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Water only at the base of plants, not on the leaves. Also, rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with rings, what is this?

Response: This is early blight, my friend. It starts on lower leaves and spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn the bad leaves today. Spray fungicide every week during rain. Also, water only at the base of plants.


Instruction: How can I stop the blight from spreading to my healthy tomato plants?

Response: First, pick all the bad leaves with spots and burn them in a bag. Don't compost them! Then spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during rain. Water only at the base of plants, not on the leaves. This will help stop the blight from spreading.


Instruction: What should I do if my tomato plants have water-soaked patches that turn brown?

Response: That sounds like late blight, my friend. It spreads very fast in wet weather. First, remove and burn all infected leaves and plants. Then spray copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage.


Instruction: My friend, I see black spots on my cocoa pods. What is happening?

Response: My friend, that sounds like black pod disease. It is caused by fungus and spreads fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove all infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. This will help stop the disease from spreading further.


Instruction: How I go know say my cocoa farm get black pod disease?

Response: Check your pods for brown or black rotten patches. This disease can appear at any stage of growth. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. If you see these signs, act quickly to save your harvest.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: Prune your trees regularly to allow light and air inside the farm. This reduces humidity which the fungus loves. Also, harvest ripe pods every two weeks. Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection. Start pruning this week to improve airflow.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting. What is the cause and how can I treat it?

Response: It sounds like black pod disease caused by fungus. To treat it, remove all infected pods and destroy them properly. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. What should I do?

Response: That is black pod disease. Remove all infected pods immediately and bury them deep or burn them. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Start removing infected pods today.


Instruction: How can I stop the spread of black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: First, remove and destroy all infected pods. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to allow light and air into the canopy. This reduces humidity which the fungus needs to spread. Start pruning this week to improve airflow.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage black pod disease in cocoa farming?

Response: The best way is to practice good sanitation. Remove and destroy all infected pods, mummified pods, and deadwood. Prune your trees regularly to improve airflow. Apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is the problem?

Response: That is black pod disease caused by fungus. It spreads fast in wet and humid conditions. Remove all infected pods and destroy them properly. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow. Start removing infected pods today.


Instruction: How I go prevent black pod disease from destroying my cocoa farm?

Response: First, remove and destroy all infected pods. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to allow light and air into the canopy. This reduces humidity which the fungus loves. Also, harvest ripe pods every two weeks. Start pruning this week to improve airflow.


Instruction: What are the signs of black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: Look for brown or black rotten patches on your cocoa pods. This disease can appear at any stage of growth. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. If you see these signs, act quickly to save your harvest. Remove all infected pods and destroy them properly.


Instruction: My friend, my cassava leaves don turn yellow and green like mosaic pattern. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. This virus comes from whiteflies. First thing first, check your farm now — if you see any plants with bad leaves, pull them out and burn them right away. No need to panic, but act fast to stop it spreading to other plants.


Instruction: How I go know if my cassava plants get mosaic disease?

Response: Look for leaves with yellow and green patches, like a broken-up pattern. The leaves might also curl up or look twisted. If you see this, the thing is, your plants have mosaic disease. Don't wait — remove those plants today and burn them to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: I wan plant cassava for first time. How I go do am well-well?

Response: First, get your stems from a healthy farm — no mosaic disease there! Plant at the start of the rains, space them 1 metre apart, and mound the soil before planting. Weed well for the first 3 months, and your cassava will do fine. Start looking for healthy stems this week.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don curl and turn bad. How I go stop dis whitefly from spoil my farm?

Response: Ah, my friend, you must act fast. Pull out and burn the bad plants today. Then, make neem leaf spray or use yellow sticky traps to catch the whiteflies. Plant resistant varieties next time, like TME 419. Start cleaning your farm now.


Instruction: When I go plant cassava for big tuber?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season. Mound the soil before planting to help the tubers grow big. Space your plants 1 metre apart for good yield. Start preparing your farm this week for planting.


Instruction: I hear say cassava mosaic disease dey spoil my farm. How I go prevent am?

Response: My friend, the best way is to use disease-free stems from healthy plants. Never take stems from a farm that had mosaic before. Also, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. Check your stems this week before planting.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don turn yellow and green. Na whitefly cause am?

Response: Yes, my friend, that is cassava mosaic disease. Whiteflies spread the virus. Pull out and burn the bad plants today to stop the virus from spreading. Also, use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies.


Instruction: How I go know the best time for plant cassava?

Response: Plant at the start of the rainy season. This way, the young plants get enough water to grow strong. Start preparing your farm this week for planting.


Instruction: I don plant cassava but the leaves don turn bad. How I go save my farm?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like mosaic disease. Pull out and burn the bad plants today. Also, make neem leaf spray or use yellow sticky traps to catch the whiteflies. Check your farm now and start cleaning.


Instruction: I wan plant cassava for sell. How I go do am well?

Response: First, get disease-free stems. Plant at the start of the rains, space them 1 metre apart, and mound the soil. Weed well for the first 3 months. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419. Start looking for healthy stems this week.


Instruction: How is early blight different from late blight in tomatoes?

Response: My friend, early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked greyish-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves immediately.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause early blight for tomato?

Response: Early blight is caused by a fungus called Alternaria solani. It starts on older leaves at the bottom of the plant. The thing is, it spreads fast in wet, cool weather. Remove and burn infected leaves right away to stop it.


Instruction: What makes late blight worse than early blight in tomatoes?

Response: Late blight is more dangerous because it can destroy entire plants within days in wet weather. Early blight is slower. Both need quick action. Today, check your plants and remove any infected parts to stop spread.


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomato plants have blight?

Response: Look for dark brown spots with rings on older leaves for early blight. For late blight, watch for water-soaked greyish-green patches that turn brown. Both spread fast in wet weather. Inspect your plants now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: Why does blight spread so fast in rainy season?

Response: Blight loves wet, cool, and humid conditions. A week of rain can wipe out your whole farm. The key is to act fast. Today, remove and burn any infected leaves to stop the spread.


Instruction: What is the difference between early blight and late blight in tomatoes?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked greyish-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves immediately.


Instruction: How is early blight different from late blight in tomatoes?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked greyish-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves immediately.


Instruction: Why does late blight destroy tomatoes faster than early blight?

Response: Late blight is more aggressive and can wipe out plants within days in wet weather. Early blight is slower. Both need quick action. Today, check your plants and remove any infected parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: What makes early blight and late blight different in tomatoes?

Response: Early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halo on older leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked greyish-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread quickly in wet weather. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves immediately.


Instruction: How can I stop blight from spreading in my tomato farm?

Response: First thing first, remove and burn any infected leaves or plant parts. Do not compost them. Spray mancozeb, chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Also, avoid overhead watering and plant on raised beds for better drainage.


Instruction: When should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: My friend, first thing first, you must spray at flowering time. Then keep spraying every 10 days during the rainy season. Use mancozeb or copper oxychloride, and always follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your trees and if flowers are out, it's time to spray!


Instruction: My mango fruits don spoil for market, wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, the thing is, it could be anthracnose. This fungus hides in the fruit and shows up after harvest. No need to panic, but you must harvest carefully and store fruits in a cool dry place immediately. Today, inspect your fruits for dark spots before picking.


Instruction: What is the best time to prune my mango trees?

Response: You should prune your mango trees right after harvest. This helps remove dead wood and improves air circulation. Better air flow means less disease. Today, grab your pruning shears and start cleaning up your trees.


Instruction: How often should I apply fungicide to prevent anthracnose?

Response: You need to spray fungicide at flowering stage, then every 10 days during the rainy season. Use mancozeb or copper oxychloride, but always follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your sprayer and make sure it's ready for the next application.


Instruction: When do I know my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit. This is the sign for most varieties. Harvest carefully, don't drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. Today, walk through your orchard and check the fruit tips for that colour change.


Instruction: I dey fear say my mangoes go spoil for market, how I go prevent am?

Response: My friend, handle your fruits with extreme care. Wounds and bruises let the fungus in. Harvest carefully, don't drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. Today, train your workers on how to handle fruits gently.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark spots on my mango leaves?

Response: Those dark brown spots are signs of anthracnose. Prune affected leaves and improve air circulation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Today, start pruning the affected leaves.


Instruction: When is the best time to remove fallen leaves and fruits from under my mango trees?

Response: You should do this regularly, but especially after heavy rains. Fallen leaves and fruits carry fungal spores. Remove them to reduce disease spread. Today, gather a bag and start cleaning up under your trees.


Instruction: How can I tell if my mangoes have anthracnose before I harvest them?

Response: It's tricky because the fungus hides inside. Look for small dark spots on the fruit. Harvest carefully and store in a cool dry place immediately. Today, inspect your fruits closely for any spots.


Instruction: What time of day is best for harvesting mangoes to avoid anthracnose?

Response: Harvest in the morning when it's cooler. This helps reduce stress on the fruits. Handle them gently and store in a cool dry place immediately. Today, plan your harvest for early morning.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant maize to avoid fall armyworm?

Response: My friend, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. The thing is, timing helps you avoid the worst of the pest. Check with your local extension officer for the best planting window in your area. First thing first, prepare your land this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: How often should I check my maize for fall armyworm?

Response: Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out to feed. Scout at least 10-20 plants per field. The wet sawdust-like frass inside the whorl is the clearest sign. Do this check at least twice this week, especially if you see damaged leaves.


Instruction: Maize don start show damage, when I go apply treatment?

Response: If you see ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like frass inside the whorl, act fast. Apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill young caterpillars. Do this treatment today if you see signs, no need to panic but don't delay.


Instruction: What is the best time to apply nitrogen fertilizer to maize?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting and half when the maize reaches knee height. This helps the plant grow strong and healthy. If you haven't applied the first half yet, do it this week when you plant.


Instruction: When should I harvest my maize to avoid post-harvest losses?

Response: Harvest your maize promptly when it's dry. Don't wait too long or weevils will attack your stored maize. Check your maize this week and plan your harvest for when the cobs are fully dry.


Instruction: How early should I start scouting for fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: Start scouting for fall armyworm as soon as your maize plants are big enough to have a whorl. Check early morning or evening when the caterpillars are active. The sooner you find them, the easier it is to control them. Start your scouting this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: When is the best time to apply neem-based sprays for fall armyworm?

Response: Neem-based sprays work best on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. If you see signs of damage, apply the spray immediately. The thing is, neem is most effective early on. Check your maize today and apply neem spray if you see young caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes, when I go apply chemical treatment?

Response: If the holes are ragged and irregular with wet sawdust-like frass inside the whorl, it's fall armyworm. Apply chemical treatment like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — follow the label instructions carefully. Do this treatment today if you see these signs.


Instruction: What is the best time to intercrop maize with beans to reduce fall armyworm?

Response: Intercrop maize with beans or soybean right at planting time. This helps reduce fall armyworm attack significantly. If you haven't intercropped yet, do it this week when you plant your maize.


Instruction: When should I apply the second split of nitrogen fertilizer to my maize?

Response: Apply the second half of your nitrogen fertilizer when the maize reaches knee height. This helps the plant grow strong and healthy. Check your maize this week and apply the second split if it's at knee height.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and yellow. They look bushy but not growing tall. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it will never recover. First thing first, pull out and burn the infected plants now to stop the disease spreading.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and have strange patterns. What is this?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is very dangerous, especially early in the season. The plants will stay small and bushy. There is no cure, so remove and burn the infected plants immediately to protect your healthy ones.


Instruction: I plant groundnut every year but this time the plants are not growing well. They are small and yellow. What is the problem?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It is spread by aphids and can destroy your crop. The plants will not recover, so remove them now. Plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing tall. The leaves are yellow and bunched together. What is the problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will not recover, so pull them out and burn them now. Plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23 next time.


Instruction: My groundnut don spoil. The leaves don turn yellow and the plant no grow well. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is spread by aphids and can destroy your crop. The plants will not recover, so remove them now. Plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: I planted groundnut but the plants are small and yellow. They are not growing like before. What is the issue?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will not recover, so remove them now. Use insecticide seed treatment before planting next time.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are not growing well. The leaves are yellow and the plants are small. What is the problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is spread by aphids and can destroy your crop. The plants will not recover, so remove them now. Plant resistant varieties like the RG 1 series next time.


Instruction: I plant groundnut but the plants are not growing well. The leaves are yellow and the plants are small. What is the problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will not recover, so remove them now. Weed your farm well to reduce aphid populations.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and yellow. The leaves are bunched together. What is happening?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is spread by aphids and can destroy your crop. The plants will not recover, so remove them now. Plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: I plant groundnut but the plants are not growing well. The leaves are yellow and the plants are small. What is the problem?

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease. It is caused by a virus spread by aphids. The plants will not recover, so remove them now. Ask your extension officer for resistant varieties to plant next time.


Instruction: my friend, my rice leaf don dey spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, my friend, that sounds like rice blast disease. Look for diamond-shaped spots with grey centres and brown edges. The thing is, this fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. First thing first, check your fertilizer use. Never over-apply nitrogen — it feeds the fungus. Today, go check your field and if you see these spots, treat immediately with tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I notice my rice stalks falling over before harvest. What is happening?

Response: That is neck blast, my friend. It attacks the base of the stalk and causes it to fall. This is the most damaging form of rice blast. The fungus thrives in cool nights and high humidity. To prevent this next season, spray a fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything! Also, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. This week, check your field and if you see early signs, treat immediately.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange spots. How do I treat this?

Response: Those spots could be rice blast, a very serious disease. At the first sign of leaf lesions, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, make sure you are not over-applying nitrogen fertilizer — excess nitrogen feeds the fungus. Today, go to your field and treat the affected areas. Do not wait, as this disease can spread quickly.


Instruction: I see my rice plants wilting and falling over. What should I do?

Response: That sounds like neck blast, a severe form of rice blast disease. It attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall over. This disease thrives in cool nights and high humidity. To prevent this, spray a fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57. This week, inspect your field and treat any affected areas immediately.


Instruction: My rice field has spots on the leaves. Is this a problem?

Response: Those spots could be rice blast, a very destructive disease. Look for diamond-shaped lesions with grey centres and brown edges. This fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. First thing first, check your fertilizer use. Never over-apply nitrogen — it feeds the fungus. Today, go check your field and if you see these spots, treat immediately with tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see my rice plants dying. What is the cause?

Response: That could be rice blast, a very serious disease. Look for diamond-shaped spots with grey centres and brown edges on the leaves. This fungus thrives in cool nights and high humidity. To prevent it, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Today, go check your field and if you see these spots, treat immediately with a recommended fungicide. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My rice leaves have brown spots. How do I stop this?

Response: Those brown spots could be rice blast, a very destructive disease. At the first sign of leaf lesions, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, make sure you are not over-applying nitrogen fertilizer — excess nitrogen feeds the fungus. This week, go to your field and treat the affected areas. Do not wait, as this disease can spread quickly.


Instruction: I notice my rice plants falling over. What is the problem?

Response: That sounds like neck blast, a severe form of rice blast disease. It attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall over. This disease thrives in cool nights and high humidity. To prevent this, spray a fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like the NERICA series. This week, inspect your field and treat any affected areas immediately.


Instruction: My rice field has strange spots on the leaves. What should I do?

Response: Those spots could be rice blast, a very serious disease. Look for diamond-shaped lesions with grey centres and brown edges. This fungus loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. First thing first, check your fertilizer use. Never over-apply nitrogen — it feeds the fungus. Today, go check your field and if you see these spots, treat immediately with tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see my rice plants wilting. What is happening?

Response: That could be neck blast, a severe form of rice blast disease. It attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall over. This disease thrives in cool nights and high humidity. To prevent this, spray a fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52. This week, inspect your field and treat any affected areas immediately.


Instruction: My maize leaves have funny holes like windows. What I no go do?

Response: My friend, don't ignore those holes! That's fall armyworm. Don't wait for the caterpillars to grow big. Check your maize early morning or evening when they come out. Right now, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl where the leaves meet. That will scratch and kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: What should I not do if I see wet sawdust in my maize whorls?

Response: Don't panic and cut down the plants! That wet sawdust is fall armyworm droppings. The caterpillars are hiding deep inside. First thing first, check 10-20 plants in your field. If you see the droppings, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will help kill the young caterpillars before they grow big.


Instruction: My maize is not doing well. Wetin I no go do?

Response: Don't just spray any chemical you find. That might not help. First, check for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see these, it's fall armyworm. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is bad, you might need to use a chemical like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. Always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What is the worst thing to do when you see fall armyworm in your maize?

Response: The worst thing is to ignore it and hope it goes away. Fall armyworm spreads fast and can destroy your maize quickly. Don't wait until the caterpillars grow big. Check your maize early in the morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: What should I avoid doing if I want to prevent fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: Don't plant your maize at the wrong time. Planting at the right time for your area can help avoid peak moth migration season. Also, don't plant maize alone. Intercropping with beans or soybean can reduce fall armyworm attacks significantly. Right now, check your maize for signs of fall armyworm and take action if you see any.


Instruction: What should I not do if I find fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: Don't spray water on the maize. That will just make the caterpillars hide deeper inside the whorl. Instead, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will scratch and kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is bad, you might need to use a chemical like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos. Always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What is the biggest mistake farmers make with fall armyworm?

Response: The biggest mistake is waiting too long to act. By the time the caterpillars are big, it's harder to control them. Don't wait until your maize is badly damaged. Check your maize early in the morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: What should I avoid doing when treating fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: Don't use too much chemical. Using more than the recommended dose can harm your maize and the environment. Always follow the label instructions carefully. If the infestation is not too bad, you can mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will help kill the young caterpillars without using chemicals.


Instruction: What should I not do if I see ragged holes in my maize leaves?

Response: Don't think it's just birds or wind damage. Those ragged holes are a sign of fall armyworm. Don't ignore them. Check your maize early in the morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: What is the worst thing to do if you find fall armyworm in your maize?

Response: The worst thing is to do nothing and hope it goes away. Fall armyworm spreads fast and can destroy your maize quickly. Don't wait until the caterpillars grow big. Check your maize early in the morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots that are not regular in shape. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. The fungus loves wet conditions. First thing first, remove all affected leaves and burn them. Do not compost. Next week, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango flowers to rot and fall off before fruit set?

Response: Ah, this is blossom blight from anthracnose. The fungus attacks when it's humid and rainy. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter.


Instruction: After harvesting my mangoes, they turn black within 2 days. Why is this happening?

Response: This is anthracnose, my friend. The fungus was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. The thing is, once the fruit ripens, the disease shows itself. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter.


Instruction: What causes dark sunken lesions on my mango fruits?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. It spreads fast in wet conditions. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter.


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black after harvest. What is the problem?

Response: This is anthracnose, a sneaky fungus. It was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. The thing is, once the fruit ripens, the disease shows itself. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter.


Instruction: Why do my mango leaves have irregular brown spots?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. It loves wet conditions. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruit sets. What can I do?

Response: This is blossom blight from anthracnose. The fungus attacks when it's humid and rainy. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter.


Instruction: What is causing dark spots on my mango leaves and fruits?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. It spreads fast in wet conditions. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter.


Instruction: How can I prevent my mango fruits from turning black after harvest?

Response: This is anthracnose, a sneaky fungus. It was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. The thing is, once the fruit ripens, the disease shows itself. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter.


Instruction: My mango fruits have dark sunken lesions. What is this and how can I treat it?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. It spreads fast in wet conditions. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter.


Instruction: How can I stop fall armyworm from spreading to my other maize fields?

Response: My friend, fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather. First thing first, check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you find them, act quickly. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill young caterpillars. This cheap method works well. Also, plant maize with beans or soybean to reduce attack. Do this today before the caterpillars spread further.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes like someone put windows on them. What is this?

Response: Ah, my brother, this is the work of fall armyworm. These caterpillars hide inside the maize whorl and feed at night. The holes you see are their feeding marks. If you look inside the whorl, you might find wet sawdust-like droppings. This is a clear sign of fall armyworm. Check your maize early in the morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars. Do this now before they spread.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: Fall armyworm hides deep inside the maize whorl and feeds mostly at night. Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass inside the whorl — that is the caterpillar droppings. Check your maize early in the morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. If you find them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars. Do this today.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis ragged holes for my maize leaves?

Response: Dis na fall armyworm, my friend. Dem dey hide for inside di maize whorl and dey feed for night time. Di holes you dey see na di way dem dey feed. If you look well inside di whorl, you go see wet sawdust-like droppings. Dis na clear sign say fall armyworm dey attack your maize. Check your maize early morning or evening when di caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put am inside di whorl to kill di caterpillars. Do dis one today before dem spread.


Instruction: My maize is infested with fall armyworm. How can I prevent it from spreading to my other fields?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. First, check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you find them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. This cheap method works well. Also, plant maize with beans or soybean to reduce attack. Do this today before the caterpillars spread further.


Instruction: How does fall armyworm spread so quickly across farms?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather, my friend. One female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs, and the caterpillars hide deep inside the maize whorl. They feed mostly at night, so you might not see them during the day. Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. If you find them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars. Do this today before they spread further.


Instruction: What can I do to stop fall armyworm from moving to my other maize plants?

Response: My brother, fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather. First thing first, check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you find them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. This cheap method works well. Also, plant maize with beans or soybean to reduce attack. Do this today before the caterpillars spread further.


Instruction: How can I tell if fall armyworm is in my maize field?

Response: Fall armyworm hides deep inside the maize whorl and feeds mostly at night. Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass inside the whorl — that is the caterpillar droppings. Check your maize early in the morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. If you find them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars. Do this today.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes and wet sawdust-like stuff inside the whorl. What is happening?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is the work of fall armyworm. These caterpillars hide inside the maize whorl and feed at night. The holes you see are their feeding marks, and the wet sawdust-like stuff is their droppings. Check your maize early in the morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars. Do this today before they spread further.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm from spreading to my other maize plants?

Response: My brother, fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather. First thing first, check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you find them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. This cheap method works well. Also, plant maize with beans or soybean to reduce attack. Do this today before the caterpillars spread further.


Instruction: What is the difference between cowpea aphids and other pests that attack cowpea?

Response: My friend, cowpea aphids are small shiny black or dark brown insects that cluster on young shoots, flowers and pods. Unlike other pests, they suck sap and spread viruses. They also produce sticky honeydew which causes black sooty mould. Check your plants today for any signs of these tiny pests.


Instruction: How can I tell if my cowpea has aphids or just lacks water?

Response: If your cowpea has aphids, you'll see small shiny black or dark brown insects clustered on the young shoots, flowers and pods. The leaves may curl, turn yellow and wilt. If it's just lack of water, the leaves will be droopy but you won't see any insects. Look closely at your plants now to be sure.


Instruction: Why cowpea aphids worse than other insects for cowpea?

Response: Cowpea aphids are worse because they not only suck sap but also spread more than 30 plant viruses. Even a small number can cause big damage. They also produce sticky honeydew which blocks sunlight. Check your plants today and remove any infested parts immediately.


Instruction: How cowpea aphids different from other pests for cowpea?

Response: Cowpea aphids are small shiny black or dark brown insects that cluster on young shoots, flowers and pods. They suck sap, spread viruses and produce sticky honeydew. Other pests may not do all these things. Look at your plants now and see if you spot any of these signs.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaves turn yellow and wilt?

Response: If your cowpea leaves are turning yellow and wilting, it could be cowpea aphids. They are small shiny black or dark brown insects that suck sap from the plant. The thing is, they also spread viruses and produce sticky honeydew. Check your plants today and remove any infested parts.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have black spots and sticky stuff. Is this aphids?

Response: Yes, my friend, that sounds like cowpea aphids. They produce sticky honeydew which causes black sooty mould. The aphids themselves are small shiny black or dark brown insects that cluster on young shoots, flowers and pods. Look closely at your plants now and take action if you see them.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids better than other farmers?

Response: First thing first, intercrop your cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Also, plant early to escape peak aphid populations. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Check your planting plan and make adjustments this week.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage cowpea aphids compared to other pests?

Response: For cowpea aphids, use neem oil spray mixed with soap, garlic spray or pyrethrin-based insecticide. Remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts. Protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles, hoverflies and parasitic wasps. Chemical option is imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray as last resort. Start checking your plants today.


Instruction: How cowpea aphids different from other insects and how to control them?

Response: Cowpea aphids are small shiny black or dark brown insects that cluster on young shoots, flowers and pods. They suck sap, spread viruses and produce sticky honeydew. To control them, use neem oil spray mixed with soap, garlic spray or pyrethrin-based insecticide. Start preparing your spray mixture this week.


Instruction: Why cowpea aphids more dangerous than other pests for cowpea?

Response: Cowpea aphids are more dangerous because they not only suck sap but also spread more than 30 plant viruses. They also produce sticky honeydew which causes black sooty mould. Check your plants today and take action if you see any signs of infestation.


Instruction: My friend, how this black pod disease dey spread for cocoa farm?

Response: Black pod disease spread very fast in wet and humid conditions. One infected pod can infect up to 10 others. The thing is, the fungus spreads through water and shade. First thing first, remove all infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground.


Instruction: What makes black pod disease spread so quickly in cocoa farms?

Response: Black pod disease spreads quickly because the fungus loves wet, humid conditions. When the weather is rainy and the farm is shaded, the disease spreads like fire. One infected pod can infect many others. To slow it down, prune your trees regularly to let in more light and air.


Instruction: How can I prevent the spread of black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: To prevent the spread, you must remove and bury or burn any infected pods immediately. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don turn black and rotten. How this disease dey spread?

Response: This black pod disease spreads through water and shade. One bad pod can infect many others. First thing first, remove all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let in more light and air.


Instruction: What are the conditions that make black pod disease spread fast in cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease spreads fast in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. The fungus loves these conditions and can infect many pods quickly. To control it, remove infected pods, prune trees for better airflow, and apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season.


Instruction: How can I stop black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: To stop the spread, remove and bury or burn all infected pods immediately. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why black pod disease dey spread so fast for my cocoa farm?

Response: Black pod disease spreads fast because the fungus loves wet and humid conditions. When the farm is shaded and rainy, the disease spreads quickly. One infected pod can infect many others. First thing first, remove all bad pods and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent the spread of black pod disease in my cocoa?

Response: To prevent the spread, remove and bury or burn all infected pods immediately. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How does black pod disease spread from one cocoa pod to another?

Response: Black pod disease spreads through water and shade. One infected pod can infect up to 10 others. The fungus loves wet and humid conditions. To stop the spread, remove and bury or burn all infected pods immediately. Prune your trees to improve airflow.


Instruction: What conditions make black pod disease spread quickly in cocoa farms?

Response: Black pod disease spreads quickly in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. The fungus loves these conditions and can infect many pods quickly. To control it, remove infected pods, prune trees for better airflow, and apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season.


Instruction: My friend, my cocoa farm is in trouble. The pods are turning black and rotting. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is black pod disease. It is very bad but we can fight it. First thing first, remove all the bad pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Then, prune your trees to let more air and light in. This will help stop the disease from spreading. You can also use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. Is this black pod disease?

Response: Yes, my friend, those black spots are signs of black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet conditions. You must act quickly. Remove all infected pods and burn them. Prune your trees to improve airflow. Also, harvest your ripe pods every 2 weeks. Do not let them overstay on the tree.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning black. How I go treat am?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Remove all the bad pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more air and light in. This will help stop the disease. You can also use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. This week, start by removing all the bad pods and burning them.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: The best way to prevent black pod disease is to keep your farm clean and dry. Prune your trees regularly to allow light and air into the canopy. Remove all diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood in one go. This is called sanitation harvesting. Also, harvest your ripe pods every 2 weeks. Do not let them overstay on the tree. This will help reduce the spread of the disease.


Instruction: I have black pod disease in my cocoa farm. What should I do to stop it from spreading?

Response: To stop black pod disease from spreading, you must remove all infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce the humidity inside the farm. You can also use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Start by removing all the bad pods and burning them this week.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is the cause?

Response: The black and rotting pods are caused by black pod disease. It is a fungus that spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. You must act quickly. Remove all infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more air and light in. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Also, harvest your ripe pods every 2 weeks.


Instruction: I see black patches on my cocoa pods. Is this a serious problem?

Response: Yes, my friend, black patches on your cocoa pods are a serious problem. It is black pod disease, and it can destroy up to one third of your harvest if not managed. Remove all infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to improve airflow. Also, use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My cocoa farm has black pod disease. How can I save my trees?

Response: To save your trees from black pod disease, you must remove all infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more air and light in. This will help stop the disease from spreading. You can also use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Start by removing all the bad pods and burning them this week.


Instruction: What are the signs of black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: The signs of black pod disease are brown or black rotting patches on cocoa pods at any stage of development. If you see these signs, you must act quickly. Remove all infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees to let more air and light in. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Also, harvest your ripe pods every 2 weeks.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning black. How I go prevent this?

Response: To prevent your cocoa pods from rotting and turning black, you must keep your farm clean and dry. Prune your trees regularly to allow light and air into the canopy. Remove all diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood in one go. This is called sanitation harvesting. Also, harvest your ripe pods every 2 weeks. Do not let them overstay on the tree. This will help reduce the spread of the disease.


Instruction: How can I stop fall armyworm from destroying my maize?

Response: My friend, first thing first, check your maize early morning or evening. Look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you see them, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. You can also spray neem-based solutions on young caterpillars in the first two weeks. If the infestation is bad, use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — follow the label instructions carefully. Today, scout your field and treat any infested plants.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes like windowpanes. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the maize whorl and feed at night. You'll also see wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Today, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass (droppings) inside the whorl. Check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. Today, scout your field and treat any infested plants.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis hole for my maize leaf?

Response: Dis one na fall armyworm. Dem dey hide for inside di maize whorl and dey feed for night. You go see wet sawdust-like droppings inside di whorl. Check your plants early morning or evening when di caterpillars come out. Today, mix fine sand with wood ash and put am for inside di whorl to kill di young caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize is infested with fall armyworm. How can I treat it cheaply?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the maize whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. You can also spray neem-based solutions on young caterpillars in the first two weeks. If the infestation is bad, use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — follow the label instructions carefully. Today, scout your field and treat any infested plants.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm from attacking my maize?

Response: Plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Intercropping maize with beans or soybean reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Also, scout your field early morning or evening and treat any infested plants immediately. Today, check your plants and remove any signs of infestation.


Instruction: What can I do to stop fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: Scout your field early morning or evening and look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill young caterpillars. You can also spray neem-based solutions on young caterpillars in the first two weeks. If the infestation is bad, use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — follow the label instructions carefully. Today, scout your field and treat any infested plants.


Instruction: How do I treat fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: First, scout your field early morning or evening and look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill young caterpillars. You can also spray neem-based solutions on young caterpillars in the first two weeks. If the infestation is bad, use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — follow the label instructions carefully. Today, scout your field and treat any infested plants.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes and wet sawdust-like stuff inside the whorl. What is this?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the maize whorl and feed at night. You'll see ragged, irregular holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Today, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: How can I manage fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: Scout your field early morning or evening and look for ragged holes in leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill young caterpillars. You can also spray neem-based solutions on young caterpillars in the first two weeks. If the infestation is bad, use chemicals like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram or chlorpyrifos — follow the label instructions carefully. Today, scout your field and treat any infested plants.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots, what is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose, a fungal disease. The spots are dark brown and irregular, yes? This fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all affected leaves and fallen debris from the ground. Then, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop my mango flowers from dying before fruiting?

Response: Ah, this is likely blossom blight from anthracnose. The fungus attacks flowers in wet weather. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time, then repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air flow. Do this today!


Instruction: My mango fruits look fine on the tree but turn black after harvest, why?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit, waiting to spread. Handle fruits carefully during harvest — no bruises or drops. Pick them gently and store in a cool, dry place immediately. Check your trees for signs of disease and treat if needed.


Instruction: How I go treat mango anthracnose na wetin I go do?

Response: First, remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Then, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air flow. Do this this week!


Instruction: My mango fruits get dark sunken spots, what is happening?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. The spots start small but grow quickly, especially after harvest. The fungus spreads in wet weather. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, handle fruits carefully during harvest — no bruises or drops.


Instruction: When is the best time to prune my mango tree?

Response: Prune your mango tree right after harvest. This removes dead wood and improves air circulation, which helps prevent diseases like anthracnose. Do this today if you haven't already!


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: My friend, prevention is key. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Avoid overhead irrigation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Prune your trees after harvest to improve air flow. Start these practices this week!


Instruction: Wetin dey cause mango fruits to turn black after harvest?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. The fungus was already inside the fruit, waiting to spread. Handle fruits carefully during harvest — no bruises or drops. Pick them gently and store in a cool, dry place immediately. Check your trees for signs of disease and treat if needed.


Instruction: What should I do if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: First, remove all affected leaves and fallen debris from the ground. Then, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage, follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during rainy season. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air flow. Do this this week!


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit. This is the sign for most varieties. Harvest carefully — no bruises or drops. Store the fruits in a cool, dry place immediately. Check your trees for signs of disease and treat if needed.


Instruction: My friend, I dey see small brown spots for my tomato leaves. How I go know if na blight or just normal leaf spot?

Response: My friend, if the spots have concentric rings and yellow halo, especially on lower leaves, it's early blight. If you see water-soaked greyish-green patches turning brown, it's late blight. First thing first, remove and destroy those infected leaves today — bag and burn them, don't compost.


Instruction: Why my tomato farm get spoil every rainy season?

Response: The thing is, blight loves wet, cool weather. When it rains, the disease spread like fire. My friend, don't water overhead — always water at the base of plants to keep leaves dry. Also, don't plant tomato in the same spot two years running — rotate with maize or cowpea.


Instruction: Is it true that if I no stake my tomato plants, na blight go attack am?

Response: Not exactly, but keeping plants off the ground helps prevent disease. Staking or caging plants improves airflow and keeps fruits clean. If you no stake, leaves touch the wet ground and get infected faster. Today, go stake your plants if you no do am already.


Instruction: I always leave my ripe tomatoes on the plant until I need them. Is this bad?

Response: Yes, my friend, that's not good. Leaving ripe fruits too long attracts pests and disease. Harvest every 2 to 3 days. This week, start checking your plants daily for ripe tomatoes.


Instruction: I plant my tomatoes very close together for more yield. Is this a problem?

Response: Too close spacing is bad, my friend. Plants need space for airflow. If they too close, blight spread faster. Space at 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. If your plants too close now, thin them out this week.


Instruction: I always water my tomatoes in the evening. Is this wrong?

Response: Yes, my friend, evening watering is bad. Wet leaves at night invite blight. Water in the morning, at the base of plants. From today, change your watering time to morning.


Instruction: I see some brown spots on my tomato leaves. Should I just wait and see?

Response: No, no need to wait! Blight spread very fast. If you see spots, remove and destroy those leaves today. Bag and burn them, don't compost. Also, start spraying mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during rainy season.


Instruction: I plant tomatoes in the same plot every year. Is this causing my blight problems?

Response: Yes, my friend. Blight spores stay in the soil. Never plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Rotate with maize or cowpea. This season, plant in a new plot if you can.


Instruction: I see greyish-green patches on my tomato leaves. What na dis?

Response: That's late blight, my friend. It very dangerous — can destroy your farm in days. First thing, remove and destroy infected leaves. Bag and burn them, don't compost. Then spray copper-based fungicide every 7 days during rainy season.


Instruction: I no like use chemical for my farm. How I go prevent blight without chemical?

Response: My friend, prevention is better. Plant on raised beds for good drainage, space plants well for airflow, water at the base, and rotate crops. Also, remove and destroy infected leaves immediately. This week, check your farm and remove any bad leaves you see.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, those brown spots could be mango anthracnose. This fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, pick up all fallen leaves and fruits from under the tree. They carry the spores that spread this disease.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mango flowers. What is happening?

Response: This is blossom blight from anthracnose. The fungus is killing your flowers before they can set fruit. The thing is, you can still stop it. Spray copper oxychloride now and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis black spot for my mango fruit?

Response: That black spot is anthracnose fungus. It was already in the fruit before harvest. The thing is, you can prevent this next time. Spray mancozeb at flowering and harvest carefully. Don't drop the fruits when picking.


Instruction: My mangoes were fine on the tree but turned black after 2 days. Why?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. When the fruit ripens, the disease shows itself. Next time, harvest carefully and store in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: What causes the dark sunken lesions on my mango fruits?

Response: Those lesions are from anthracnose fungus. It grows inside the fruit before you even see the spots. The key is to handle fruits gently when harvesting. Even small wounds let the fungus in.


Instruction: My mango tree has irregular brown spots on leaves. Is this serious?

Response: Yes, my friend, this is anthracnose. It's serious because it can spread to flowers and fruit. Prune your tree to improve air circulation and remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: What disease causes flowers to die before mango fruit sets?

Response: That is blossom blight from anthracnose. It's caused by a fungus that loves wet weather. Spray copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why do my mangoes rot so quickly after harvest?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit. Handle fruits with care when harvesting. Bruises and wounds let the fungus enter. Store fruits in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: What is the black rot on my mangoes?

Response: That black rot is anthracnose. It was in the fruit before harvest. Next time, harvest carefully and remove all fallen leaves and fruits from under the tree to stop the spores from spreading.


Instruction: My mango leaves have dark brown irregular spots. What should I do?

Response: Those spots are anthracnose. First thing first, pick up all fallen leaves and fruits from under the tree. Then, prune your tree to improve air circulation. This will help stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: How can I stop my rice plants from getting that brown spot disease?

Response: My friend, you're seeing rice blast. First thing first, don't panic. Stop adding too much nitrogen fertilizer—it feeds the fungus. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right now if you see spots on leaves. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 next season. Today, check your field and start removing infected plants to stop it from spreading.


Instruction: My rice plants have strange brown spots. What is this and how do I fix it?

Response: That's rice blast, a very bad fungus. It causes diamond-shaped spots on leaves and can even make your plants fall over. The thing is, it loves cool nights and too much nitrogen. Stop adding extra nitrogen now. Spray fungicide like isoprothiolane at the first sign of spots. Next season, plant resistant varieties like NERICA. Today, check your field and start removing infected plants.