Instruction: When should I harvest my groundnut to avoid aflatoxin?

Response: Harvest before heavy rains arrive. Wet pods can develop dangerous aflatoxin. Check the weather forecast and plan your harvest for this week if rains are coming soon. Dry the pods properly in the sun before storing.


Instruction: What's the best time to apply fertilizer to groundnut?

Response: Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen, so don't add too much fertilizer. Focus on phosphorus at planting time. The best time is right before you plant — mix it into the soil. Check your fertilizer stocks and prepare this week if you haven't.


Instruction: How often should I check my groundnut field for rosette disease?

Response: Check at least twice a week, especially in the first month after planting. Look for small, bushy plants with yellow or mottled leaves. If you see any, pull them out immediately. The thing is, this disease spreads fast — early detection saves your crop. Check your field this afternoon if you haven't today.


Instruction: When should I start weeding my groundnut farm?

Response: Start weeding early, within 2-3 weeks after planting. Weeds host aphids that spread rosette disease. The best time is when weeds are still small — it's easier to remove them. Check your field this week and start weeding if you haven't.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are big but no pods. Why?

Response: You might have applied too much nitrogen fertilizer. Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen — too much fertilizer makes leaves grow but not pods. Next time, focus on phosphorus at planting. For now, check your plants and remove any weeds competing for nutrients.


Instruction: How long after planting should I expect to see flowers on my groundnut?

Response: You should see flowers about 30-40 days after planting if conditions are good. If you don't see flowers by then, check for pests or disease. The thing is, flowers mean your plants are healthy and growing well. Check your plants this week and note when you see the first flowers.


Instruction: When should I treat my groundnut seeds before planting?

Response: Treat your seeds with insecticide just before planting to control aphids that spread rosette disease. The best time is in the evening before you plant the next morning. Check your seed stocks and prepare your treatment this week if you haven't.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are turning yellow and green with weird patterns. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, it's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First thing first, check all your plants and remove any with these signs. Burn them to stop the virus spreading. Then, use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. This week, check your farm and remove any bad plants.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant cassava?

Response: Plant cassava at the start of the rainy season. This gives the plants the best chance to grow strong. If you haven't planted yet, check your weather forecast and plant as soon as the rains begin. This week, prepare your land and get your planting stems ready.


Instruction: How long should I wait before harvesting my cassava?

Response: Harvest time depends on your variety and what you want to use the cassava for. Most varieties are ready between 9 to 18 months. If you haven't planted yet, choose a variety that fits your needs. This week, check your planting schedule and mark your calendar for harvest time.


Instruction: My cassava plants are small and weak. What did I do wrong?

Response: Cassava needs space to grow. If you planted too close, the plants will compete for light and nutrients. Space your plants 1 metre by 1 metre. If you haven't planted yet, make sure to space them properly. This week, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How often should I weed my cassava farm?

Response: Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, cassava will shade out most weeds. If your farm is already overgrown, weed it this week. After that, just keep an eye on it.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava but my soil is poor. What can I do?

Response: Cassava can grow in poor soil, but it responds well to potassium fertilizer. If you can, add some potassium fertilizer when you plant. This week, check your soil and decide if you need to add fertilizer.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava stems are infected with mosaic?

Response: You can't see the virus in the stem, but if the plant grows and shows mosaic symptoms, the stem was infected. The best way is to use disease-free stems from healthy plants. Never use stems from a farm that had mosaic. This week, check your stems and make sure they are from healthy plants.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis mosaic for my cassava?

Response: Mosaic is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, once a plant is infected, it's no good. You must remove and burn it immediately. Then, control the whiteflies with neem spray or yellow sticky traps. This week, check your farm and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: When should I mound the soil before planting cassava?

Response: Mound the soil before you plant your cassava. This improves drainage and helps the tubers grow bigger. If you haven't planted yet, mound your soil this week. If you have planted, check your mounds and fix any that need it.


Instruction: I planted cassava last month but the plants are not growing well. What can I do?

Response: Check if you planted at the start of the rainy season. If not, the plants might not have enough water. Also, make sure you spaced them properly and weeded regularly. If you haven't weeded yet, do it this week. If the plants are still struggling, check for signs of disease and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: How can I grow cassava without spending much money on chemicals?

Response: My friend, first thing first, plant disease-free stems. This is the cheapest way to avoid problems. Use stems from healthy plants only. Then, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. You can make neem spray yourself by soaking neem seeds in water. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419. This week, check your farm for any plants with yellow and green mosaic patterns and remove them immediately.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don turn yellow and green with spots. How I go treat am?

Response: Ah, this is cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, once the leaves show these signs, the plant is already infected. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately before the whiteflies spread the virus to others. Then, control the whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. This week, check your farm for any other plants with these signs and remove them.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to prevent cassava mosaic disease?

Response: The cheapest way is to plant disease-free stems from healthy plants. This is the number one rule. Also, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. These varieties cost the same as other cassava stems but give you protection. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. This week, check your farm for any plants with yellow and green mosaic patterns and remove them immediately.


Instruction: How can I space my cassava plants to save on seeds and still get good yield?

Response: Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them enough room to grow well and makes weeding easier. Planting too close wastes seeds and leads to poor yield. This week, measure your farm and plan your planting spacing.


Instruction: My cassava farm don get small leaves with yellow and green spots. What I go do?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. The virus is spread by whiteflies. First, remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Then, control the whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 next time. This week, check your farm for any other plants with these signs and remove them.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant cassava to save on irrigation costs?

Response: Plant cassava at the start of the rainy season. This way, you won't need to spend money on irrigation. The rain will help the plants establish well. This week, check the weather forecast and plan your planting for the start of the rains.


Instruction: How can I control whiteflies on my cassava farm without spending much?

Response: Use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. You can make neem spray yourself by soaking neem seeds in water. Yellow sticky traps are cheap and effective. This week, make a neem spray or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm.


Instruction: What should I do if I find cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: First, remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. This stops the whiteflies from spreading the virus to other plants. Then, control the whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 next time. This week, check your farm for any other plants with these signs and remove them.


Instruction: How can I improve drainage on my cassava farm without spending much?

Response: Mound the soil before planting. This improves drainage and helps the tubers grow bigger. It's a simple and cheap method. This week, prepare your farm by mounding the soil before planting.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to weed my cassava farm?

Response: Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, cassava shades out most weeds. This saves you the cost of weeding later. This week, weed your farm thoroughly and keep it clean for the next 3 months.


Instruction: How does black pod disease spread in cocoa farms?

Response: My friend, black pod disease spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. One infected pod can easily infect ten others. The thing is, the fungus loves shade and dampness, so good airflow is key. First thing first, remove any infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Never leave them on the ground.


Instruction: What causes cocoa pods to rot so quickly?

Response: The main culprit is black pod disease caused by Phytophthora fungus. It shows up as brown or black patches on the pods. The fungus spreads like wildfire in wet conditions, so you must act fast. Check your farm today and remove any rotten pods you see.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don spoil fast, wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is likely black pod disease. It spreads quickly in wet and humid conditions. The fungus loves shade and dampness, so you must improve airflow in your farm. Prune your trees regularly to allow light and air into the canopy. This will help reduce the humidity inside the farm.


Instruction: How can I prevent black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: To stop black pod disease from spreading, you must remove and bury or burn any infected pods immediately. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees regularly to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black patches on my cocoa pods?

Response: If you see black patches on your cocoa pods, it is black pod disease. Remove the infected pods immediately and bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity. This will help prevent the disease from spreading further.


Instruction: Why is it important to remove infected cocoa pods quickly?

Response: Removing infected pods quickly is crucial because black pod disease spreads extremely fast. One infected pod can infect ten others. The fungus loves wet and humid conditions, so you must act immediately. Remove and bury or burn any infected pods you see today.


Instruction: How often should I apply fungicide to prevent black pod disease?

Response: During the rainy season, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. This will help control the spread of black pod disease. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remember to prune your trees regularly to improve airflow.


Instruction: My cocoa farm is always wet and humid, how I go prevent black pod disease?

Response: Ah, my friend, wet and humid conditions are perfect for black pod disease. The thing is, you must improve airflow in your farm. Prune your trees regularly to allow light and air into the canopy. This will reduce the humidity inside the farm. Also, apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: The best way to manage black pod disease is to remove and bury or burn any infected pods immediately. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees regularly to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop black pod disease from destroying my cocoa harvest?

Response: To stop black pod disease from destroying your harvest, you must act fast. Remove and bury or burn any infected pods immediately. Do not leave them on the ground. Prune your trees regularly to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks to prevent overstay pods from becoming a source of infection.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from attacking my crop?

Response: My friend, first thing first: plant your cowpea early in the season before the dry weather brings many aphids. Also, mix cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio. This will reduce the aphid pressure on your cowpea. Check your farm regularly and remove any plant parts with many aphids before they spread.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cowpea aphids from destroying my plants?

Response: To prevent aphids, plant your cowpea early and avoid planting near farms that already have aphids. Also, intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. This will help reduce the number of aphids on your cowpea. Check your farm often and remove any heavily infested parts.


Instruction: My cowpea don dey spoil for aphid, how I go prevent dis for future?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. For next time, plant early in the season and mix cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio. Also, avoid planting downwind from farms with aphid problems. Check your farm regularly and remove any parts with many aphids before they spread.


Instruction: How can I protect my cowpea from aphids using natural methods?

Response: You can spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray on your cowpea to control aphids. Also, plant early and intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. Protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and parasitic wasps—they help control aphids. Check your farm often and remove any heavily infested parts.


Instruction: What farming practices can help me avoid cowpea aphid problems?

Response: Plant your cowpea early in the season and intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. Avoid planting near farms with aphid problems. Check your farm regularly and remove any heavily infested parts before the aphids spread. This will help reduce the number of aphids on your cowpea.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from spreading to my entire farm?

Response: To stop aphids from spreading, check your farm often and remove any heavily infested plant parts. Plant early and intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. Avoid planting downwind from farms with aphid problems. This will help control the aphids on your farm.


Instruction: Wetin I go do to prevent cowpea aphid for my farm?

Response: First, plant your cowpea early and mix with maize at 4:1 ratio. Avoid planting near farms with aphid problems. Check your farm regularly and remove any heavily infested parts before the aphids spread. This will help reduce the number of aphids on your cowpea.


Instruction: What can I plant with cowpea to reduce aphid attacks?

Response: My friend, plant cowpea with maize at 4:1 ratio. This will help reduce the number of aphids on your cowpea. Also, plant early in the season and avoid planting near farms with aphid problems. Check your farm often and remove any heavily infested parts.


Instruction: How can I prevent cowpea aphids from attacking my plants early?

Response: Plant your cowpea early in the season before the dry weather brings many aphids. Also, intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. Avoid planting downwind from farms with aphid problems. Check your farm regularly and remove any heavily infested parts before the aphids spread.


Instruction: What should I do to keep cowpea aphids away from my crop?

Response: To keep aphids away, plant your cowpea early and intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. Avoid planting near farms with aphid problems. Check your farm often and remove any heavily infested parts. This will help reduce the number of aphids on your cowpea.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is likely mango anthracnose, a fungal disease. The brown spots mean the fungus is attacking your leaves. First thing first, remove all the infected leaves and fallen debris from the ground. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How I go know if my mangoes have anthracnose?

Response: Check your fruits for dark sunken spots. If you see them, that's anthracnose. The thing is, these spots can grow fast after harvest, so handle your fruits with care. Pick them gently and store them in a cool, dry place right away.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. What is the problem?

Response: This is blossom blight caused by anthracnose. The fungus kills the flowers before fruits can form. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rainy seasons. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: Prune your mango tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Also, avoid overhead irrigation as it keeps leaves wet for too long. Regularly pick up fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. These carry fungal spores that can infect your tree.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango tree for anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Then, repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Always follow the label instructions carefully when using any chemicals.


Instruction: Why are my mangoes turning black after harvest?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside your fruits but you couldn't see it. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care. Do not drop them as wounds let the fungus enter. Pick them gently and store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest mangoes?

Response: Harvest when you see a slight colour change at the tip. This is the sign of correct maturity for most varieties. Pick them gently and store them in a cool, dry place right away to prevent anthracnose.


Instruction: How I go treat mango anthracnose na my farm?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rainy seasons. Also, prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly.


Instruction: What should I do if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove all infected leaves and fallen debris from the ground. Then, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time and repeat every 10 days during rainy seasons. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop anthracnose from spreading in my mango orchard?

Response: Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Avoid overhead irrigation and regularly pick up fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. These carry fungal spores that can infect your trees.


Instruction: How can I stop black pod from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first, remove any infected pods you see. Bury them deep or burn them, don't leave them on the ground. Then prune your trees to let in more light and air. This will dry out the fungus that causes black pod. You can also apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Today, go and check your trees, remove any bad pods, and start pruning.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause black pod for my cocoa?

Response: Black pod is caused by a fungus called Phytophthora. It loves wet, humid conditions and spreads very fast. One infected pod can infect ten others. The thing is, overstay pods are the biggest source of infection. So, harvest your ripe pods every two weeks. Today, go and check your trees, remove any bad pods, and start pruning.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is happening?

Response: That sounds like black pod disease, my friend. It's caused by a fungus that thrives in wet conditions. You need to remove those infected pods immediately and either bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow. Today, start by removing all the bad pods you see.


Instruction: How often should I prune my cocoa trees to prevent black pod?

Response: You should prune your cocoa trees after each harvest. This lets light and air into the canopy, which helps prevent black pod. Regular pruning also makes it easier to spot and remove infected pods. Today, take a look at your trees and start planning which branches to prune.


Instruction: Is it true that harvesting cocoa pods regularly can prevent black pod?

Response: Yes, that's true! Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection. You should harvest ripe pods every two weeks. This way, you remove potential sources of infection before the fungus can spread. Today, check your trees and harvest any ripe pods you find.


Instruction: What should I do with diseased cocoa pods?

Response: You must remove diseased pods immediately. Bury them deep or burn them, but never leave them on the ground. This stops the fungus from spreading to other pods. Today, go through your farm and remove any bad pods you see.


Instruction: Can I use fungicide to control black pod in my cocoa farm?

Response: Yes, you can use copper-based fungicides like Ridomil Gold or Nordox. Apply them every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. But remember, fungicide alone won't solve the problem. You also need to remove infected pods and prune your trees. Today, check your trees and start removing any bad pods.


Instruction: Why is my cocoa farm losing so many pods to black pod?

Response: Black pod spreads very fast in wet, humid conditions. One infected pod can infect ten others. The fungus loves shade and poor airflow. To stop it, remove infected pods, prune your trees, and apply copper-based fungicide. Today, start by removing any bad pods you see.


Instruction: How can I improve airflow in my cocoa farm to prevent black pod?

Response: Prune your trees regularly to let in more light and air. This dries out the fungus that causes black pod. Also, remove any deadwood or mummified pods during what we call sanitation harvesting. Today, take a look at your trees and start planning which branches to prune.


Instruction: What is the best time to establish a new cocoa farm to avoid black pod?

Response: Don't establish new farms too late in the rainy season. The fungus that causes black pod loves wet conditions. Start your farm early in the season so the trees have time to grow strong before the heavy rains. Today, if you're planning a new farm, start preparing your land.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant cowpea to avoid aphids?

Response: My friend, the best time to plant cowpea is early in the season. This way you escape the peak aphid populations that come during the dry season. First thing first, check your local weather patterns and plant as soon as the rains start.


Instruction: How I go know say cowpea aphid don attack my farm?

Response: If you see small shiny black or brown insects clustering on your cowpea shoots, flowers or pods, that's cowpea aphids. You might also notice stunted growth, leaf curl, yellowing, or wilting. Check your plants today and if you see these signs, take action immediately.


Instruction: What is the best time of day to inspect cowpea plants for aphids?

Response: The best time to inspect your cowpea plants for aphids is in the early morning or late afternoon. This is when aphids are most active. Take a walk through your farm during these times and look closely at the young shoots, flowers, and pods.


Instruction: When should I apply neem oil spray to control cowpea aphids?

Response: You should apply neem oil spray as soon as you notice aphids on your cowpea plants. Do not wait for the infestation to spread. Mix neem oil with soap and spray it on the affected parts of the plant. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Is it better to plant cowpea in the morning or afternoon to avoid aphids?

Response: The time of day you plant cowpea doesn't directly affect aphid infestation. What matters is planting early in the season. So, whether you plant in the morning or afternoon, make sure it's at the start of the rainy season to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: How often should I check my cowpea plants for aphids during the dry season?

Response: During the dry season, check your cowpea plants for aphids at least twice a week. Aphid populations are higher during this time, so regular monitoring is crucial. If you see any signs of infestation, take action immediately.


Instruction: When is the best time to intercrop cowpea with maize to reduce aphid pressure?

Response: The best time to intercrop cowpea with maize is at the start of the planting season. Follow a 4:1 ratio of maize to cowpea. This practice helps reduce aphid pressure and improves soil fertility. Plan your intercropping layout this week if you haven't already.


Instruction: What should I do if I notice aphids on my cowpea plants in the morning?

Response: If you notice aphids on your cowpea plants in the morning, don't panic. Start by removing and destroying heavily infested plant parts to prevent the aphids from spreading. Then, prepare a neem oil spray mixed with soap and apply it to the affected areas. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: When should I consider using a chemical insecticide for cowpea aphids?

Response: You should only consider using a chemical insecticide like imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray as a last resort. First, try natural methods like neem oil spray, garlic spray, or encouraging natural enemies like ladybird beetles. If the infestation is severe and spreading quickly, then use the chemical option.


Instruction: How early should I plant cowpea to avoid the worst of the aphid season?

Response: Plant your cowpea as early as possible in the rainy season. This helps your plants mature before the peak aphid populations arrive. Check your local weather forecast and start planting as soon as the rains begin. The earlier you plant, the better.


Instruction: How does black pod disease spread so quickly in cocoa farms?

Response: My friend, black pod disease spreads like fire in the harmattan because of wet, humid conditions and poor airflow. One infected pod can infect ten others if you don't act fast. The thing is, the fungus loves shade and moisture, so first thing first, remove all infected pods and burn or bury them deep.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don dey rot for ground, wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, my brother, that sounds like black pod disease. The fungus loves wet weather and shade. You must remove those bad pods immediately and burn or bury them deep. Don't leave them on the ground, o. Also, prune your trees to let in more light and air.


Instruction: What conditions make black pod disease spread faster in cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease spreads fastest when it's wet, humid, and shady. The fungus that causes it loves these conditions and can infect many pods quickly. To slow it down, remove any infected pods right away and burn or bury them deeply. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow.


Instruction: How can I stop black pod disease from spreading to my healthy cocoa pods?

Response: To stop black pod disease from spreading, you must act fast. Remove any infected pods immediately and burn or bury them deep. Don't leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let in more light and air. This will make it harder for the fungus to spread.


Instruction: Why is it important to remove infected cocoa pods quickly?

Response: Removing infected pods quickly is very important because one bad pod can infect ten others. The fungus spreads fast in wet, humid conditions. So, as soon as you see a pod turning brown or black, remove it and burn or bury it deep. This will help protect your healthy pods.


Instruction: My cocoa farm get plenty shade, but I dey fear say black pod go spoil my harvest. How I go prevent am?

Response: My friend, shade is one of the things that makes black pod disease worse. You must prune your trees to let in more light and air. Also, remove any infected pods immediately and burn or bury them deep. Don't leave them on the ground. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black pod disease in my cocoa farm during the rainy season?

Response: If you see black pod disease during the rainy season, act fast. Remove all infected pods immediately and burn or bury them deep. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity.


Instruction: How does pruning help in controlling black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: Pruning helps by letting in more light and air, which the fungus that causes black pod disease doesn't like. When you prune your trees, you reduce the humidity inside the farm, making it harder for the disease to spread. So, prune your trees regularly, especially after each harvest.


Instruction: Can black pod disease destroy my entire cocoa harvest?

Response: Yes, black pod disease can destroy up to one third of your harvest in a bad season if you don't manage it well. But no need to panic. Remove infected pods immediately and burn or bury them deep. Prune your trees to improve airflow and apply a copper-based fungicide during the rainy season.


Instruction: What is the best way to dispose of infected cocoa pods to prevent black pod disease from spreading?

Response: The best way to dispose of infected pods is to burn or bury them deeply. Never leave them on the ground because the fungus can still spread from there. Also, remove any mummified pods and deadwood during what we call sanitation harvesting. This will help protect your healthy pods.


Instruction: What is the difference between healthy groundnut plants and those with groundnut rosette?

Response: My friend, healthy groundnut plants grow tall and strong with green leaves. But plants with groundnut rosette stay small, bushy, and have yellow or mottled leaves. The thing is, once you see these signs, uproot the plant immediately — it cannot be saved. Check your farm today and remove any sick plants.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette compare to other groundnut diseases?

Response: Groundnut rosette is one of the most deadly because there is no cure once a plant is infected. Other diseases might weaken the plant, but this one can cause total crop failure if it strikes early. The best thing is to plant early and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties this week.


Instruction: Wetin dey difference between groundnut rosette and normal groundnut growth?

Response: Normal groundnut grows tall with green leaves spreading out. But groundnut rosette makes plants stay small, bushy, and the leaves turn yellow or mottled. If you see this, uproot the plant immediately — it cannot be saved. Check your farm today and remove any sick plants.


Instruction: What is the difference in soil requirements for groundnut compared to maize?

Response: Groundnut needs well-drained sandy loam soil, unlike maize which can tolerate heavier soils. Waterlogged soil causes pod rot in groundnut. Make sure your groundnut farm has good drainage before planting. Check your soil this week and improve drainage if needed.


Instruction: How does planting early help with groundnut rosette compared to planting late?

Response: Planting early helps groundnut escape the peak aphid populations that come later. Aphids spread the deadly groundnut rosette virus. Plant at the very start of rains to protect your crop. Check your planting schedule and plant early if you haven't already.


Instruction: What is the difference between groundnut and cowpea in terms of aphid problems?

Response: Groundnut is very susceptible to aphids which spread the deadly groundnut rosette virus. Cowpea can also get aphids, but it is more tolerant. For groundnut, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting. Treat your seeds this week before planting.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette compare to early and late leaf spot in groundnut?

Response: Groundnut rosette is more deadly than early and late leaf spot because there is no cure once a plant is infected. Leaf spots weaken the plant but do not cause total crop failure like rosette. The best defense is to plant early and use resistant varieties. Check your seed supply and get resistant varieties this week.


Instruction: Wetin dey difference between groundnut rosette and normal weed growth?

Response: Groundnut rosette makes the groundnut plants stay small, bushy, and the leaves turn yellow or mottled. Weeds just grow wild and tall. The thing is, weeds host aphids which spread the disease to groundnut. Weed your farm well to control aphids. Weed your farm this week.


Instruction: What is the difference in harvesting between groundnut and maize?

Response: Groundnut should be harvested before heavy rains to avoid aflatoxin contamination in wet pods. Maize can be harvested after rains. For groundnut, check the weather and harvest before heavy rains arrive. Plan your harvest this week.


Instruction: How does groundnut rosette compare to bacterial wilt in groundnut?

Response: Groundnut rosette is caused by a virus spread by aphids, while bacterial wilt is caused by bacteria in the soil. Both are deadly, but rosette can be prevented by planting early and using resistant varieties. Check your planting schedule and plant early if you haven't already.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves turning yellow and plants stay small, what is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette virus. The plants stay small and bushy with yellow leaves? This is very dangerous. First thing first, pull out and burn all infected plants now. The thing is, there is no cure once a plant gets this virus. Next time plant early at the very start of rains to escape the worst aphid populations.


Instruction: My groundnut don spoil, leaves don turn yellow, small plants, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this sounds like groundnut rosette virus. The small plants with yellow leaves? Very dangerous. The thing is, this virus spreads by aphids. You must remove and burn all infected plants immediately. No cure for this one. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are stunted and yellow. How do I save them?

Response: I am sorry to say this, but groundnut rosette virus is deadly. Once plants show stunting and yellowing, there is no saving them. You must remove and burn them immediately to stop the virus spreading. The best thing to do now is plant early next season to avoid peak aphid populations. Also consider using resistant varieties like the RG 1 series.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant groundnut to avoid diseases?

Response: First thing first, plant early at the very start of rains. This helps you escape the worst aphid populations that come later. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting. Weed your farm well — weeds host aphids which then move to your groundnut plants.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette virus in my farm?

Response: To prevent groundnut rosette virus, plant early in the season. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting. Weed your farm well — weeds host aphids which then spread the virus. This week, check your farm for any infected plants and remove them immediately.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and bushy with yellow leaves. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, my friend, this is groundnut rosette virus. Very dangerous. The thing is, once plants show these signs, there is no cure. You must remove and burn all infected plants immediately. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting.


Instruction: What should I do if my groundnut plants have groundnut rosette virus?

Response: I am sorry to say this, but once plants have groundnut rosette virus, there is no cure. You must remove and burn all infected plants immediately to stop the virus spreading. The best thing to do now is plan for next season. Plant early to avoid peak aphid populations and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut has groundnut rosette virus?

Response: Look for small, bushy plants with yellow or mottled leaves. The leaves bunch up at the top. This is groundnut rosette virus. The thing is, once you see these signs, the plant is already infected and cannot be saved. You must remove and burn it immediately to stop the virus spreading.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and plants are stunted. What can I do?

Response: This is groundnut rosette virus. Very dangerous. The thing is, once plants show these signs, there is no cure. You must remove and burn all infected plants immediately. Next time, plant early in the season and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting.


Instruction: What is the best variety of groundnut to plant to avoid diseases?

Response: For groundnut rosette virus, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22, SAMNUT 23, or the RG 1 series. Ask your extension officer for local resistant varieties too. Plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting. This week, check your farm for any infected plants and remove them immediately.


Instruction: Hello, what can you tell me about growing rice?

Response: Hello my friend! FarmBot can help you grow healthy rice. The thing is, rice needs proper care to thrive. First thing first, make sure your field has good water management. And watch out for diseases like rice blast. Let me know what specific rice problem you're facing today.


Instruction: My rice leaves have white spots with brown edges, what is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. The fungus attacks leaves first, causing those diamond-shaped spots. If not treated, it can spread to the stems and even kill your plants. You must act fast. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away — follow the label instructions carefully. And remember, don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer, it feeds the fungus.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice plant fall down for ground?

Response: This could be neck blast, a very dangerous rice disease. The fungus attacks the stem where the grain grows, making it fall over. The thing is, this disease spreads fast in cool, humid weather. To prevent it, spray fungicide at the boot stage, before the panicle comes out. And plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series next time.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast in my farm?

Response: Preventing rice blast is all about good farming practices. First, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57 or NERICA. Next, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — no drying and flooding cycles. Also, use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. And after harvest, burn the rice straw to destroy fungal spores. These steps will help keep your rice healthy.


Instruction: What should I do if I see rice blast on my plants?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide right away — follow the label instructions carefully. And check your fertilizer use. Too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Also, make sure your plants have good spacing to reduce disease pressure. And for next season, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like NERICA.


Instruction: My rice field keeps drying out and flooding, is this bad?

Response: Yes, my friend, this is very bad for your rice. Alternating drying and flooding stresses the plants and makes them more likely to get diseases like rice blast. You must maintain proper water levels in your paddy field. Keep it consistently wet but not flooded. This will help your rice grow strong and healthy.


Instruction: Which rice varieties are resistant to blast disease?

Response: Good question! In Nigeria and West Africa, FARO 52, FARO 57, and the NERICA series are good options. These varieties have some resistance to rice blast. But remember, no variety is 100% resistant, so you still need to follow good farming practices to prevent disease. Plant these varieties this season and see the difference.


Instruction: How often should I spray fungicide for rice blast?

Response: Spray fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. For neck blast prevention, spray at boot stage before the panicle emerges — timing is everything. And always follow the label instructions carefully. But remember, prevention is better than cure. Plant resistant varieties and follow good farming practices to reduce the need for fungicides.


Instruction: My friend say too much nitrogen fertilizer cause rice blast, is this true?

Response: Yes, my friend, this is very true. Too much nitrogen fertilizer feeds the rice blast fungus directly. The disease thrives when there's excess nitrogen in the soil. So, use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. This will help keep your rice healthy and reduce the risk of blast disease.


Instruction: What should I do with rice straw after harvest?

Response: After harvest, burn the rice straw. This destroys fungal spores that survive in crop residues. If you don't burn it, the spores can infect your next rice crop. But be careful with the fire and follow local regulations. And remember, good farming practices like burning straw after harvest help prevent rice blast disease.


Instruction: How can I stop cassava mosaic from ruining my farm?

Response: My friend, prevention is key. First thing first, always use disease-free stems from healthy plants. Never take stems from a farm that had mosaic before. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. This week, check your plants for any yellow and green patterns or leaf curling. If you see any, remove and destroy those plants immediately.


Instruction: My neighbour say his cassava get mosaic. How I go protect my farm?

Response: No need to panic, but you must act fast. The thing is, mosaic spreads by whiteflies. First, make sure you never take stems from your neighbour's farm. Also, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. This week, inspect your plants carefully for any signs of the disease.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: To prevent mosaic, start with healthy stems from disease-free plants. Plant resistant varieties like CMD-resistant ones. Also, control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. This week, check your plants for any yellow and green mosaic patterns or leaf curling. If you see any, remove and destroy those plants immediately.


Instruction: How do I stop whiteflies from spreading cassava mosaic?

Response: Whiteflies spread the mosaic virus, so you must control them. Use neem-based sprays or set up yellow sticky traps around your farm. This week, start treating your plants with neem spray to keep the whiteflies away.


Instruction: What should I do if I find mosaic on my cassava plants?

Response: If you see mosaic, act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately before the whiteflies spread the virus further. This week, inspect your farm and remove any plants with yellow and green mosaic patterns or leaf curling.


Instruction: How can I make sure my cassava stems are disease-free?

Response: Only take stems from healthy plants that have never shown signs of mosaic. Never take stems from a farm that had mosaic before. This week, check your stems for any signs of disease before planting.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent mosaic when planting cassava?

Response: To prevent mosaic, always use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties. Also, control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. This week, make sure you have healthy stems ready for planting.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have yellow and green spots. What do I do?

Response: Those spots could be mosaic. Remove and destroy those plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading. This week, check your entire farm and remove any plants with similar spots or leaf curling.


Instruction: How can I protect my cassava from mosaic disease?

Response: Protect your cassava by using disease-free stems and planting resistant varieties. Control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. This week, inspect your plants for any signs of mosaic and remove infected plants immediately.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent cassava mosaic?

Response: The best way is to use disease-free stems and plant resistant varieties. Also, control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. This week, make sure your planting material is healthy and free from disease.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from spreading to my healthy plants?

Response: My friend, first thing first, you must remove and destroy any heavily infested plant parts immediately. These aphids spread fast, and you don't want them to take over your whole farm. After that, you can spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray to control the remaining aphids. Remember to follow the label instructions carefully if you use any chemical sprays.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis cowpea leaf curl and yellowing?

Response: The thing is, those symptoms are likely from cowpea aphids. These tiny black or dark brown insects suck sap from your plants, causing leaves to curl and turn yellow. They also spread viruses, so even a small number can cause big problems. Check your plants carefully and take action before it gets worse.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent aphids from attacking my cowpea plants next season?

Response: To prevent aphids, plant your cowpea early in the season before the aphid populations peak. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This helps reduce aphid pressure. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. These steps will give your plants a better chance to grow strong and healthy.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have sticky stuff and black mould. What is happening?

Response: That sticky stuff is called honeydew, and it's a sign of aphid infestation. The black mould is sooty mould, which grows because of the honeydew. Aphids produce this sticky substance as they feed on your plants. You need to control the aphids to stop the honeydew and mould. Start by spraying neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray.


Instruction: How do I know if my cowpea plants have aphids?

Response: Look closely at the young shoots, flowers, and pods. If you see small shiny black or dark brown insects clustered there, those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the plant, causing stunted growth, leaf curl, and yellowing. Check your plants regularly so you can catch an infestation early.


Instruction: Can I use chemical sprays to control cowpea aphids?

Response: Yes, but only as a last resort. You can use imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray, but follow the label instructions carefully. Before using chemicals, try natural methods like neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: Why is my cowpea growth stunted and leaves are wilting?

Response: Those symptoms are likely from cowpea aphids. These tiny insects suck sap from your plants, causing them to grow poorly and wilt. Check your plants for clusters of small black or dark brown insects on the young shoots, flowers, and pods. Take action immediately to control the aphids before they spread further.


Instruction: How can I protect my cowpea plants from aphids naturally?

Response: You can spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray to control aphids naturally. Also, protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps, as they feed on aphids. Intercropping with maize at a 4:1 ratio can also help reduce aphid pressure. These methods will help keep your plants healthy without using harsh chemicals.


Instruction: My neighbour's cowpea farm has aphids. How can I stop them from spreading to my farm?

Response: First, avoid planting downwind or next to your neighbour's infested farm. Intercrop your cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Also, plant early to escape the peak aphid populations. These steps will help protect your plants from aphid infestations.


Instruction: What should I do if I see aphids on my cowpea plants?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Remove and destroy any heavily infested plant parts immediately to stop the spread. Then, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray to control the remaining aphids. Check your plants regularly to catch any new infestations early. These steps will help keep your cowpea plants healthy and productive.


Instruction: What can I do to stop black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first, you must remove any diseased pods you see. Cut them off and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more air and light in. This will help stop the disease from spreading so fast.


Instruction: How can I prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm without spending much money?

Response: The thing is, you can do a lot without spending much. Keep your farm clean. Remove any deadwood, mummified pods, and diseased pods. Prune your trees regularly to improve airflow. This will make it harder for the disease to spread.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don get black spots. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: That black spots na black pod disease. It come from too much wet and shade. You must remove the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Also, prune your trees to let more air and light in.


Instruction: Is there a cheap way to treat black pod disease on my cocoa trees?

Response: Yes, there is. The best cheap way is to keep your farm clean. Remove any diseased pods and prune your trees. This will help stop the disease from spreading. If you can, use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How often should I prune my cocoa trees to prevent black pod disease?

Response: You should prune your cocoa trees after each harvest. This will let more light and air into the canopy, which helps stop the disease from spreading. Also, remove any diseased pods and deadwood.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black pod disease on my cocoa farm?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove the diseased pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Then, prune your trees to improve airflow. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Also, harvest your ripe pods every 2 weeks to prevent overstay pods from getting infected.


Instruction: Can I use any fungicide to treat black pod disease on my cocoa trees?

Response: Yes, you can use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox. Apply it during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop black pod disease from destroying my cocoa harvest?

Response: The best way is to keep your farm clean. Remove any diseased pods and prune your trees regularly. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Also, harvest your ripe pods every 2 weeks to prevent overstay pods from getting infected.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don spoil fast. How I go treat am?

Response: That na black pod disease. You must remove the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more air and light in. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: The best way is to keep your farm clean. Remove any diseased pods and prune your trees regularly. This will help stop the disease from spreading. Also, use copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why cowpea and maize grow well together?

Response: My friend, cowpea and maize are a good mix. The maize gives shade and wind protection, which helps cowpeas grow better. Also, this mix reduces cowpea aphids because the maize makes it harder for the pests to spread. First thing first, plant 4 rows of maize for every 1 row of cowpea.


Instruction: How cowpea help the next crop on my farm?

Response: Cowpea is special — it puts nitrogen in the soil. This makes the soil richer for the next crop you plant. The thing is, you must plant cowpea first, then follow with another crop like maize. This way, your soil stays strong.


Instruction: What happen if I plant cowpea near a farm with aphids?

Response: No need to panic, but you must be careful. Aphids spread easily, especially if the wind blows from the infested farm to yours. The best thing is to plant your cowpea upwind or far from the affected farm. If you can't, check your plants often for signs of aphids.


Instruction: How I know if cowpea aphids attack my plants?

Response: Look for small black or dark brown insects on young shoots, flowers, and pods. The leaves may curl, turn yellow, or wilt. You might also see sticky honeydew on the leaves, which turns black with sooty mould. If you see these signs, act fast to stop the aphids from spreading.


Instruction: Why cowpea aphids are bad for my farm?

Response: Aphids suck sap from cowpea plants, making them weak and stunted. They also spread more than 30 plant viruses. Even a few aphids can cause big problems. The sticky honeydew they make encourages black sooty mould, which blocks sunlight. Check your plants often and remove any heavily infested parts right away.


Instruction: How early planting help cowpea avoid aphids?

Response: Aphids are worst during the dry season. If you plant cowpea early, the plants can grow and produce pods before the peak aphid season. This way, your harvest is safer. Start planting as soon as the rains begin.


Instruction: What natural enemies of cowpea aphids can help my farm?

Response: Ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps are friends to your cowpea. They eat aphids and help control the infestation. Avoid using broad-spectrum insecticides that kill these helpful insects. Instead, use neem oil spray or garlic spray to control aphids.


Instruction: How neem oil spray help with cowpea aphids?

Response: Neem oil disrupts the life cycle of aphids and makes them stop feeding. Mix neem oil with soap and water, then spray on the affected plants. This is a safe and effective way to control aphids without harming natural enemies. Spray early in the morning or late in the evening.


Instruction: My cowpea don spoil, wey I de see small black insects for the leaves?

Response: Those small black insects are cowpea aphids. They suck sap from the leaves, making them curl and turn yellow. If you see them, remove the heavily infested parts of the plant and destroy them. Then, spray neem oil mixed with soap on the remaining plants to control the aphids.


Instruction: How I can prevent cowpea aphids from coming back?

Response: To keep aphids away, intercrop cowpea with maize at a 4:1 ratio. Plant early to avoid the peak aphid season. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Check your plants often and remove any infested parts immediately to stop the spread.


Instruction: My friend, my cocoa pods don turn black and rot. How I go know if na black pod disease?

Response: My friend, if you see brown or black rotting patches on your cocoa pods at any stage, that is black pod disease. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, check all your pods and remove the bad ones. Bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground.


Instruction: I see some brown spots on my cocoa pods. Is this normal or should I worry?

Response: Brown or black spots on cocoa pods are not normal. This is black pod disease. It is very dangerous because one bad pod can infect ten others. You must remove the bad pods right now and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground.


Instruction: Why my cocoa farm get too many bad pods this season?

Response: Black pod disease spreads very fast in wet and humid weather. If your farm is shady and not getting enough air, the disease will spread even faster. You must prune your trees to allow more light and air. Also, remove all bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground.


Instruction: How I go prevent black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: To prevent black pod disease, you must keep your farm clean. Remove all bad pods, mummified pods, and deadwood. Prune your trees regularly to allow light and air. During the rainy season, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What I go do if I see black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Then, prune your trees to allow more light and air. During the rainy season, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don spoil. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: If your cocoa pods are rotting with brown or black spots, it is black pod disease. This disease spreads very fast in wet and humid weather. You must remove the bad pods right now and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to allow more light and air.


Instruction: How I go treat black pod disease in my cocoa farm?

Response: To treat black pod disease, first remove all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Then, prune your trees to allow more light and air. During the rainy season, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I hear say black pod disease dey destroy cocoa farm. How I go know if my farm get am?

Response: Black pod disease shows as brown or black rotting patches on cocoa pods. If you see this, it means your farm has the disease. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove all the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground.


Instruction: My cocoa pods get black spots. How I go save my farm?

Response: Black spots on cocoa pods mean you have black pod disease. This disease spreads very fast in wet and humid weather. You must remove the bad pods right now and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to allow more light and air. During the rainy season, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I don prune my cocoa trees for long time. How this go affect my farm?

Response: If you don't prune your cocoa trees, the farm will be shady and humid. This will make black pod disease spread very fast. You must prune your trees to allow more light and air. Also, remove all bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. During the rainy season, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is spreading in my maize field?

Response: My friend, check your maize leaves for ragged holes that look like someone took a bite. If you see wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, that's a sure sign. Scout in the early morning or evening when caterpillars come out. This week, examine 10-20 plants across your field to see if the problem is spreading.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis fall armyworm problem for my maize?

Response: The thing is, fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather. One moth can lay up to 1000 eggs! They hide deep in the whorl and feed at night. First thing first, check your maize early morning or evening to see if the problem is spreading. If you find sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, you know they are there.


Instruction: Why is fall armyworm attacking my maize more this season than last year?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads quickly in warm weather. If you planted late, you might have caught the peak moth migration season. Check your maize early in the morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. This week, scout 10-20 plants to see how bad the problem is.


Instruction: How fast can fall armyworm spread in my maize field?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads very fast, especially in warm weather. One female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs! The caterpillars hide deep in the whorl and feed at night. To check if they are spreading, look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out.


Instruction: My maize leaves have strange holes. Is this fall armyworm?

Response: Those ragged holes could be fall armyworm. Check inside the whorl for wet sawdust-like droppings. That is a clear sign. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. If you find them, act fast to stop them from spreading.


Instruction: How do I stop fall armyworm from spreading in my maize field?

Response: To stop fall armyworm from spreading, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it into the whorl. This scratches and kills young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays also work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. This week, scout your field early in the morning or evening to catch them early.


Instruction: Can fall armyworm spread to my neighbour's maize field?

Response: Yes, fall armyworm spreads very fast, especially in warm weather. One female moth can lay up to 1000 eggs! Check your maize early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you find them, act fast to stop them from spreading to your neighbour's field.


Instruction: My maize has wet sawdust-like stuff inside the whorl. Is this fall armyworm?

Response: Yes, that wet sawdust-like stuff is fall armyworm droppings. They hide deep in the whorl and feed at night. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it into the whorl to kill young caterpillars. Act fast to stop them from spreading.


Instruction: How do I know if fall armyworm is in my maize field?

Response: Look for ragged holes in the leaves that look like someone took a bite. Check inside the whorl for wet sawdust-like droppings. That is a clear sign of fall armyworm. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. If you find them, act fast to stop them from spreading.


Instruction: Why is fall armyworm attacking my maize so badly this year?

Response: Fall armyworm spreads very fast in warm weather. If you planted late, you might have caught the peak moth migration season. Check your maize early in the morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Look for ragged holes in the leaves and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. This week, scout 10-20 plants to see how bad the problem is.


Instruction: My maize leaves have strange holes and I see wet sawdust inside the whorl, what is this?

Response: My friend, this is fall armyworm. The caterpillars are hiding inside and feeding on your maize. First thing first, check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. You can put fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill the young ones. Do this today.


Instruction: How I go treat fall armyworm for my maize?

Response: For fall armyworm, first check your plants early morning or evening. If you see the caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will scratch and kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is heavy, you can use neem-based sprays. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Check your plants this week.


Instruction: What can I do to stop fall armyworm from destroying my maize?

Response: To stop fall armyworm, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Also, intercrop with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attacks significantly. Start planning your intercropping this week.


Instruction: My maize is full of holes and there is wet sawdust inside the leaves, what is happening?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the leaves and feed at night. The wet sawdust is their droppings. Check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. Do this today.


Instruction: How can I manage fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: To manage fall armyworm, scout your field early morning or evening. If you find the caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is heavy, you can use neem-based sprays. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Check your plants this week.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause the holes for my maize leaves?

Response: The holes in your maize leaves are caused by fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the leaves and feed at night. The wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl are a clear sign. Check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. Do this today.


Instruction: What is the best way to treat fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The best way to treat fall armyworm is to check your plants early morning or evening. If you see the caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is heavy, you can use neem-based sprays. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Check your plants this week.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm from attacking my maize?

Response: To prevent fall armyworm, plant your maize at the right time for your area. Also, intercrop with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attacks significantly. Start planning your intercropping this week.


Instruction: My maize leaves have ragged holes and wet sawdust inside, what should I do?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the leaves and feed at night. The wet sawdust is their droppings. Check your plants early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars. Do this today.


Instruction: What can I do to control fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: To control fall armyworm, scout your field early morning or evening. If you find the caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will kill the young caterpillars. If the infestation is heavy, you can use neem-based sprays. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Check your plants this week.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are turning yellow with green patches and curling. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cassava mosaic disease. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First thing first, pull out and destroy those infected plants right away before it spreads to others. Then, check your other plants carefully.


Instruction: I just noticed some of my cassava plants have strange patterns on the leaves. What should I do?

Response: That could be cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, it spreads quickly through whiteflies. Don't panic, but act fast. Remove the sick plants immediately and burn them far from your farm. Then, look for whiteflies and control them with neem spray or sticky traps.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don spoil with yellow and green patches. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease, my friend. It's a virus that whiteflies spread. The bad news is, there's no cure. But you can stop it from spreading. Pull out and destroy the sick plants today. Also, check nearby plants for whiteflies.


Instruction: What should I do if my cassava plants have mosaic disease?

Response: If you see mosaic disease, act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Then, control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. Next time, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. Also, always use disease-free planting stems.


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: To prevent mosaic disease, first, always plant disease-free stems from healthy plants. Use resistant varieties like TME 419. Control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. And never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Do these things, and you'll keep your farm safe.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and have strange patterns. What is happening?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease. It's a virus spread by whiteflies. The leaves will get worse, and your tubers will be small. First, pull out and destroy the infected plants right away. Then, check your other plants and control any whiteflies you see.


Instruction: What can I do to stop cassava mosaic disease from spreading?

Response: To stop mosaic disease from spreading, remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. Plant resistant varieties next time, and always use disease-free stems. Do these things, and you'll protect your farm.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: Mosaic disease shows up as yellow and green patches on the leaves, with curling and distortion. If you see this, act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants right away. Then, control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. Check your other plants carefully too.


Instruction: My cassava plants have mosaic disease. How can I treat it?

Response: There's no treatment for mosaic disease, my friend. But you can stop it from spreading. Pull out and destroy the infected plants immediately. Then, control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. Next time, plant resistant varieties and use disease-free stems.


Instruction: What should I do if I see mosaic disease in my cassava farm?

Response: If you see mosaic disease, don't wait. Remove and destroy the infected plants right away. Then, control whiteflies with neem spray or sticky traps. Check your other plants carefully. Next time, plant resistant varieties and always use disease-free stems. Do these things, and you'll protect your farm.


Instruction: My friend, I see my groundnut plants stay small with yellow leaves bunching together. What is happening here?

Response: Ah, my friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It is very dangerous — the plants will never recover. First thing first, pull out and burn these infected plants immediately to stop the disease spreading. Next week, check all your plants carefully and remove any others showing these signs.


Instruction: I no dey understand wetin dey happen to my groundnut farm. My plants don dey small small with leaves turn yellow yellow. How I go know if na rosette disease?

Response: This one na groundnut rosette disease, I tell you. The plants stay small with yellow leaves bunched together. No need to panic but you must act fast — remove all infected plants now and burn them. Then check your farm every day for more signs.


Instruction: What are the signs of groundnut rosette disease that I should look for in my field?

Response: Look for plants that stay very small and bushy with yellow or mottled leaves that bunch together. These are the clear signs of groundnut rosette. If you see any plants like this, remove and burn them immediately to stop the disease spreading to healthy plants.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are stunted and have yellow, bunched leaves. Is this a sign of poor soil or something else?

Response: This is not poor soil, my friend. These are signs of groundnut rosette disease. It is a deadly virus spread by aphids. The thing is, there is no cure — you must remove and burn infected plants immediately to protect the rest of your farm.


Instruction: How can I tell if my groundnut plants have rosette disease or just need more fertilizer?

Response: If your plants are stunted with yellow, bunched leaves, it is rosette disease — not a fertilizer problem. The plants will never recover, so remove and burn them now. For healthy plants, be careful not to use too much nitrogen fertilizer or you will get leaves instead of pods.


Instruction: What does groundnut rosette disease look like in the early stages?

Response: In the early stages, you will see some plants staying small with yellow or mottled leaves that bunch together. This is very dangerous if it happens early in the season. Check your farm carefully and remove any plants showing these signs immediately to stop the disease spreading.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and the plants are not growing tall. Is this a disease or lack of water?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease, not lack of water. The plants stay small with yellow, bunched leaves. There is no cure — remove and burn infected plants immediately to protect your healthy ones.


Instruction: What should I do if I see groundnut rosette disease in my field?

Response: First thing first, remove and burn all infected plants immediately to stop the disease spreading. Then check your farm every day for more signs. Also, make sure to plant early at the start of rains next season to escape peak aphid populations. Ask your extension officer about resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette disease in my farm?

Response: Plant early at the very start of rains to escape peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23, or ask your extension officer for local ones. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting and weed your farm well — weeds host aphids which then move to groundnut plants.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are bushy with yellow leaves. Is this a sign of disease or just how the plants grow?

Response: This is a sign of groundnut rosette disease, not normal growth. The plants will never recover, so remove and burn them immediately to stop the disease spreading. Also, make sure to plant early next season and use resistant varieties to protect your farm.


Instruction: How can I stop my mango flowers from dying before fruit sets?

Response: My friend, this sounds like blossom blight from anthracnose disease. The thing is, this fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride right now at flowering time. Then keep spraying every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation — this helps dry the flowers faster after rain.


Instruction: My mangoes look fine on the tree but turn black 2 days after harvest. What is happening?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose disease. The fungus was already inside the fruit but you couldn't see it. The thing is, it spreads fast when the fruit ripens. From now on, handle fruits very carefully — any bruise lets the fungus in. Harvest gently, don't drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How I go prevent mango anthracnose for next season?

Response: To prevent anthracnose next season, you must start now. Clear all fallen leaves and fruits from under the tree — they carry fungal spores. Then prune the tree to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Also, avoid overhead irrigation as it keeps leaves wet for too long. These simple steps will help a lot.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark brown spots on my mango leaves?

Response: Those dark brown spots are a sign of anthracnose disease. It's important to act fast. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride right away and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, remove any fallen leaves from the ground — they can spread the disease.


Instruction: Why my mango fruits get black spots after harvest?

Response: Wetin dey cause this is anthracnose disease. The fungus was already in the fruit but you couldn't see it. The thing is, it spreads fast when the fruit ripens. From now on, handle fruits very carefully — any bruise lets the fungus in. Harvest gently, don't drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: How can I tell when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: For most varieties, look for a slight colour change at the tip of the mango. That's the sign it's ready. Harvest carefully — don't drop the fruits as bruises let disease in. After picking, store them in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: What is the best time to prune my mango tree?

Response: The best time to prune is after every harvest. Remove dead wood and thin out crowded branches to improve air circulation. This helps prevent diseases like anthracnose. Do this every year and your tree will stay healthy.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango tree for anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage. Then spray every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly to reduce spores.


Instruction: Can overhead irrigation cause mango anthracnose?

Response: Yes, it can. Overhead irrigation keeps the foliage wet for too long, and anthracnose loves wet conditions. Instead, use drip irrigation or water at the base of the tree. Also, prune the tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: What should I do with fallen mango leaves and fruits?

Response: Remove them from under the tree immediately. They carry fungal spores that can spread disease. Burn or bury them far from your mango tree. This simple step helps control anthracnose. Do this regularly, especially during the rainy season.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize has fall armyworm?

Response: My friend, look for ragged holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes with light through them. Check inside the whorl for wet sawdust-like droppings. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. This week, examine 10-20 plants in your field carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause the holes for my maize leaves?

Response: Ah, that might be fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. You'll see ragged holes and wet sawdust-like droppings inside. Check your plants early morning or evening to confirm. Spread fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill young caterpillars.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent fall armyworm in maize?

Response: First thing first, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration. Also, intercrop maize with beans or soybean. This reduces fall armyworm attacks significantly. Start planning your intercropping this week.


Instruction: How can I treat fall armyworm in maize?

Response: For young caterpillars, apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl. This scratches and kills them. Neem-based sprays also work well in the first 2 weeks of infestation. If the infestation is severe, consider chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos — always follow the label instructions carefully. Act now to save your maize.


Instruction: Why is my maize not growing well?

Response: Could be many things, my friend. Check for fall armyworm first. Look for ragged holes and wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. If you find them, treat immediately. Also, ensure you're applying nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting, half at knee height. Check your fertilizer application this week.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize has been attacked by fall armyworm?

Response: Look for ragged, irregular holes in the leaves. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass inside the whorl — that's the caterpillar droppings. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field this week.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize?

Response: No need to panic. For young caterpillars, apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl. This scratches and kills them. Neem-based sprays also work well in the first 2 weeks of infestation. If the infestation is severe, consider chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos — always follow the label instructions carefully. Act quickly to save your maize.


Instruction: How can I stop fall armyworm from spreading in my maize field?

Response: The thing is, one female moth lays up to 1000 eggs, so the pest spreads fast. Scout early morning or evening and treat immediately. Apply fine sand mixed with wood ash into the whorl to kill young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays also work well. Start treating any infested plants this week.


Instruction: What is the best spacing for maize to prevent fall armyworm?

Response: Plant your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, one seed per hole. This spacing helps with overall plant health and makes it easier to spot and treat fall armyworm. Plan your planting layout this week.


Instruction: How do I know if my maize has fall armyworm or another pest?

Response: Fall armyworm leaves ragged, irregular holes in the leaves. The clearest sign is wet sawdust-like frass inside the whorl — that's the caterpillar droppings. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come to the surface. Check 10-20 plants per field this week to confirm.


Instruction: How does the banana bunchy top virus spread?

Response: My friend, the banana bunchy top virus spreads through tiny insects called banana aphids. These aphids carry the virus from sick plants to healthy ones. The thing is, once a plant gets this virus, it's a total loss. First thing first: if you see symptoms, cut the plant down and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. Today, check your plantain farm for any signs of the disease.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause plantain bunchy top?

Response: The banana bunchy top virus causes plantain bunchy top. It makes the leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks and dots that turn yellow then brown. The plant won't grow properly or produce a bunch. No cure for this one, so if you see it, chop the plant and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This week, inspect your plantain farm carefully.


Instruction: Can I treat plantain bunchy top with chemicals?

Response: No, no need to waste money on chemicals. There is no cure for bunchy top. The moment you see symptoms, chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so it can't reshoot. Today, remove any plants showing symptoms.


Instruction: How do I prevent the spread of bunchy top in my plantain farm?

Response: To prevent the spread, plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus hides inside the sucker with no visible signs. Also, keep your farm clean and remove any infected plants immediately. This week, check your sucker sources.


Instruction: What are the signs of bunchy top in plantain?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks and dots along the veins and leaf edges that turn yellow then brown. The plant stops growing properly and won't produce a bunch. If you see these signs, chop the plant and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, inspect your plants closely.


Instruction: Is it safe to use suckers from a farm that had bunchy top?

Response: No, never use suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. This week, source your suckers from a reliable, disease-free place.


Instruction: How can I stop the bunchy top virus from spreading to my healthy plantain plants?

Response: The best way is to remove infected plants immediately. Chop them to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Also, plant only certified clean suckers and keep your farm clean. Today, check all your plants for any signs of the virus.


Instruction: What should I do if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: I tell you, if your plantain has bunchy top, there's nothing you can do to save it. Chop the plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm so it can't reshoot. Today, remove any infected plants from your farm.


Instruction: Can bunchy top virus survive in the sucker?

Response: Yes, the virus can hide inside the sucker with no visible signs. That's why you should never use suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. This week, check your sucker sources.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks and dots that turn yellow then brown. The plant won't grow properly or produce a bunch. If you see these signs, chop the plant and treat the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, inspect your plants carefully.


Instruction: How do I stop tomato blight from spreading in my garden?

Response: My friend, first thing first: remove and burn any infected leaves or plants right away. Do not compost them! Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, stop watering from above — always water at the base of the plants to keep leaves dry. You can start this today!


Instruction: My tomato leaves don get dark brown spots with rings, wetin dey cause am?

Response: That sound like early blight, my friend. It starts on lower leaves and spreads fast in wet weather. Remove those bad leaves and burn them, no compost! Then spray with fungicide every week during rain. Also, space your plants well for good airflow. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent tomato blight in my farm?

Response: To prevent blight, plant your tomatoes on raised beds for good drainage. Space them well — 50 cm within rows and 75 cm between rows. Avoid overhead watering and spray fungicide every week in rainy season. Also, rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same spot two seasons in a row. Start planning your crop rotation today!


Instruction: How do I treat late blight on my tomato plants?

Response: Late blight is very dangerous — it can destroy your plants in days! First, remove and burn all infected parts immediately. Then spray with chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Also, stop watering from above and plant on ridges next time. Check your plants now and remove any bad ones.


Instruction: Why my tomato plants keep getting blight every season?

Response: The thing is, blight loves wet, cool weather. If you plant tomato in the same spot every year, the disease stays in the soil. Rotate with maize or cowpea next season. Also, plant on raised beds and space your plants well. Start planning your crop rotation today!


Instruction: How can I keep my tomato plants healthy and blight-free?

Response: Keep your plants healthy by staking or caging them to improve airflow. Space them well and water only at the base. Apply balanced NPK at planting and calcium nitrate when flowers appear. Also, harvest regularly every 2-3 days. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don spoil, how I go treat am?

Response: That sound like blight, my friend. First, remove and burn the bad leaves. Do not compost them! Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Also, stop watering from above and plant on ridges next time. Check your plants now and remove any bad ones.


Instruction: What should I do if I see grey-green patches on my tomato leaves?

Response: That is late blight, my friend. It spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn the infected leaves right away. Then spray with chlorothalonil or copper-based fungicide every week during rain. Also, plant on raised beds next time for better drainage. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: How do I stop blight from coming back in my tomato farm?

Response: To stop blight from coming back, rotate your crops — don't plant tomato in the same spot two seasons in a row. Also, plant on raised beds and space your plants well. Avoid overhead watering and spray fungicide every week in rainy season. Start planning your crop rotation today!


Instruction: What is the best way to manage tomato blight in my garden?

Response: The best way is to prevent it! Remove and burn any infected leaves at first sign. Spray fungicide every week during rain and avoid overhead watering. Also, plant on raised beds and rotate your crops. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: My mango leaves have brown spots, what is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. It's a fungal disease that loves wet weather. The thing is, those spots will spread if we don't act. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. Then, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause am make my mango flower don spoil?

Response: Ah, this is likely mango anthracnose. The fungus attacks flowers, causing blossom blight. This stops fruit from setting. My advice? Prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation. Also, avoid overhead irrigation. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: Prevention is key, my friend. Prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly — they carry fungal spores. Avoid overhead irrigation. Also, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mangoes look fine on the tree but turn black after harvest. Why?

Response: This is classic mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter. Harvest fruits carefully, do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. Also, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What should I do when I see dark spots on my mango leaves?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Those dark spots are mango anthracnose. Remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. Then, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: Harvest at correct maturity, my friend. A slight colour change at the tip is the sign for most varieties. Handle harvested fruits with extreme care — wounds and bruises let the fungus enter. Harvest fruits carefully, do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: Can I use any fungicide to treat mango anthracnose?

Response: Not just any fungicide, my friend. Use mancozeb or copper oxychloride. Spray at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation and remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly.


Instruction: Why is my mango tree not producing fruit?

Response: It could be mango anthracnose. The fungus attacks flowers, causing blossom blight. This stops fruit from setting. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation and remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly.


Instruction: What can I do to stop mango anthracnose spreading?

Response: First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. They carry fungal spores. Then, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation. Avoid overhead irrigation. Also, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: When should I spray my mango trees to prevent anthracnose?

Response: My friend, first thing first — spray at flowering stage. Then every 10 days during rains. Use mancozeb or copper oxychloride, but follow the label instructions carefully. This week, check your trees and if they're flowering, it's time to spray.


Instruction: How often I go spray mango for anthracnose?

Response: You spray at flowering, then every 10 days when rain is falling. No need to panic if you miss one, just keep to the schedule. Today, check your sprayer and make sure it's ready for the next application.


Instruction: What is the best time to prune mango trees?

Response: Prune after harvest, my friend. This removes dead wood and lets air circulate better. It also helps prevent anthracnose. This week, take your pruning shears and remove any dead branches you see.


Instruction: When should I harvest my mangoes to avoid anthracnose?

Response: Harvest when the tip starts changing colour. That's the sign for most varieties. Don't wait too long or harvest too early. Today, check your fruits and see if they're ready.


Instruction: Is there a specific time to remove fallen leaves and fruits from under mango trees?

Response: Remove them regularly, especially during rainy season. They carry fungal spores that cause anthracnose. This week, gather a bag and clear the ground around your trees.


Instruction: At what stage should I start worrying about anthracnose in my mango orchard?

Response: Start worrying at flowering stage. That's when the fungus attacks the blossoms. If you see dark spots on leaves or blighted flowers, act fast. Today, inspect your trees for any early signs.


Instruction: When is the best time to apply fungicide for mango anthracnose?

Response: Apply at flowering, then every 10 days during rains. Don't wait until you see spots on leaves or fruits. This week, mark your calendar for the next application.


Instruction: How long after flowering should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: Spray at flowering, then every 10 days during rains. The thing is, the fungus loves wet conditions, so don't skip any sprays. Today, check your sprayer and make sure it's ready.


Instruction: What is the right time to harvest mangoes to prevent anthracnose?

Response: Harvest when the tip changes colour slightly. That's the sign for most varieties. Don't wait until the fruit is too soft. Today, inspect your fruits and see if they're ready.


Instruction: When should I start removing fallen leaves and fruits from my mango orchard?

Response: Start removing them regularly, especially during rainy season. They carry spores that cause anthracnose. This week, gather a bag and clear the ground around your trees.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and bunching up. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's caused by a virus spread by aphids. The thing is, once a plant has it, it won't recover. You must remove and burn those plants right away to stop the disease spreading.


Instruction: How can I stop groundnut rosette from killing my plants?

Response: First thing first, plant early in the rains before aphids get too many. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to kill any aphids. Also, keep your farm very clean of weeds because aphids love weeds.


Instruction: What type of soil is best for growing groundnut?

Response: Groundnut grows best in well-drained sandy loam soil. If your soil holds too much water, the pods will rot. If you're not sure, dig a small hole and fill it with water - if it drains in a few hours, it's good.