Instruction: Can I plant cassava stems from last year's harvest if they show no signs of disease?

Response: No, you must not do that. Even if the stems look healthy, the mosaic virus can hide inside. Always use certified disease-free stems. This is the only way to be sure.


Instruction: I planted cassava very close together. Is this good?

Response: No, no, no. Space your cassava plants 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives them room to grow and makes weeding easier. Crowded plants do not yield well.


Instruction: I see whiteflies on my cassava. Should I ignore them?

Response: No, never ignore whiteflies. They spread the mosaic virus. Control them with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps around the farm. Act now before they cause big problems.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and distorted. What is the cause?

Response: This is likely cassava mosaic disease. The virus causes these symptoms. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Do not let the whiteflies spread it to healthy plants.


Instruction: Can I plant cassava in any soil?

Response: Yes, cassava can grow in poor soils, but it responds well to potassium fertilizer. Mound the soil before planting to improve drainage and tuber size. This small effort makes a big difference.


Instruction: I no dey weed my cassava farm. Is this fine?

Response: No, no, no. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. After that, cassava shades out most weeds. But early weeding is very important for good growth.


Instruction: I want to harvest my cassava after 6 months. Is this good?

Response: No, no, no. Harvest cassava at 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you want to use it for. Harvesting too early gives small tubers. Wait for the right time.


Instruction: My rice leaves have grey spots with brown edges, what is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. The fungus attacks leaves first, then moves to the stems. First thing first, do not panic. You must act quickly to save your crop. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide today, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your fertilizer use — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over before harvest, what is happening?

Response: This is neck blast, the most damaging form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to collapse. You must act fast to prevent more damage. Spray fungicide at boot stage next season to prevent this. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice plant to have white spots for leaf?

Response: This is rice blast disease, caused by a fungus. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. You must act quickly to stop it spreading. Spray fungicide today, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it feeds the fungus.


Instruction: My rice field has grey spots on leaves and some plants are falling over, what do I do?

Response: This is rice blast disease, and it is very serious. The fungus attacks leaves and stems, causing plants to fall over before harvest. You must act immediately. Spray fungicide today, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season.


Instruction: What can I do to stop rice blast disease in my field?

Response: Rice blast thrives in cool nights and high humidity. To prevent it, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Also, do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting. Use balanced NPK fertilizer, never more than the recommended nitrogen dose. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast disease in my farm?

Response: First, plant blast-resistant varieties like the NERICA series. Maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting. Use balanced NPK fertilizer, never more than the recommended nitrogen dose. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: My rice leaves have diamond-shaped spots, what is this and how do I treat it?

Response: This is rice blast disease, caused by a fungus. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. To treat it, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide today, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it feeds the fungus. Plant blast-resistant varieties next season.


Instruction: What should I do if my rice plants have grey spots on the leaves?

Response: This is rice blast disease, and you must act quickly. Spray fungicide today, follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your fertilizer use — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over and have grey spots, what is the problem?

Response: This is neck blast, the most damaging form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to collapse. You must act fast to prevent more damage. Spray fungicide at boot stage next season to prevent this. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52.


Instruction: How can I stop my rice plants from falling over before harvest?

Response: This is neck blast, caused by the rice blast fungus. To stop it, spray fungicide at boot stage before the panicle emerges — timing is everything. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season. Maintain proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately.


Instruction: My friend, I see small black insects all over my cowpea leaves. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap and cause yellowing. First thing first, do not ignore them. They spread viruses and attract sooty mould. Check your farm today and remove any heavily infested parts.


Instruction: Why my cowpea plants don grow well? Leaves turn yellow and wilt. What I do wrong?

Response: Wahala! Those signs mean aphids attack your cowpeas. You no suppose plant near other infested farms. Aphids fly and spread fast. Today, mix neem oil with soap and spray. Also, plant early next time to avoid dry season aphids.


Instruction: I plant cowpea next to my neighbour's infested farm. Now my plants have aphids. What should I do?

Response: My friend, that is a big mistake. Never plant cowpea downwind or next to infested farms. Aphids fly easily. Right now, remove and destroy badly affected parts. Spray neem oil with soap to control the rest.


Instruction: Can I use any chemical to kill cowpea aphids?

Response: No, no! Do not just spray any chemical. First try neem oil with soap or garlic spray. If very bad, use pyrethrin-based insecticide. Only use imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray as last resort. Always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see black mould on my cowpea leaves. What cause this?

Response: That black mould comes from sticky honeydew aphids produce. Aphids suck sap and leave this sticky mess. The mould blocks sunlight. First, remove infested parts. Then spray neem oil with soap to control aphids.


Instruction: Is it good to plant cowpea alone in my farm?

Response: No, no! Do not plant cowpea alone. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Maize helps protect cowpea. Next planting season, mix them well.


Instruction: I see small beetles on my cowpea farm. Should I kill them?

Response: No, no! Those are ladybird beetles. They eat aphids. Do not kill them. They help control aphids naturally. Protect them and your cowpeas will be healthier.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves curl and turn yellow. What is happening?

Response: Aphids are the problem. They suck sap and cause this damage. Do not wait. Check your farm today. Remove badly affected parts and spray neem oil with soap.


Instruction: Can I plant cowpea in the dry season?

Response: No, no! Do not plant in dry season. Aphids are worse then. Plant early to escape peak aphid populations. This helps your cowpeas grow better.


Instruction: What if I see aphids but no mould yet?

Response: Even without mould, aphids are dangerous. They spread viruses. Do not wait. Remove infested parts and spray neem oil with soap today. Act fast to save your cowpeas.


Instruction: What does black pod disease look like on cocoa?

Response: My friend, black pod disease shows as brown or black rotting patches on the pods. It can happen at any stage of growth. First thing first, check your trees and if you see this, remove the bad pods right away.


Instruction: How do I know if my cocoa pods have black pod disease?

Response: When your cocoa pods get black pod disease, they develop brown or black rotting spots. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet weather. If you see this, pick the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don turn brown and rotten, wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, that sounds like black pod disease. It's caused by a fungus that loves wet and humid conditions. You must remove the bad pods quickly and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground.


Instruction: What are the signs of black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease shows up as brown or black rotting patches on the cocoa pods. It can happen at any stage of growth. If you see this, pick the bad pods and get rid of them properly.


Instruction: How can I identify black pod disease on my cocoa trees?

Response: Look for brown or black rotting patches on the pods. That's black pod disease. It spreads fast in wet weather. You must remove the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: My cocoa pods have black spots, what is this?

Response: Those black spots are black pod disease. It's caused by a fungus and spreads quickly in wet conditions. Remove the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: What does black pod disease look like on young cocoa pods?

Response: Even young cocoa pods can get black pod disease. You'll see brown or black rotting patches. It's important to remove these pods and bury them deep or burn them.


Instruction: How do I know if my cocoa has black pod disease?

Response: Check your cocoa pods for brown or black rotting patches. That's black pod disease. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove the bad pods and get rid of them properly.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting, what should I do?

Response: That could be black pod disease. Look for brown or black rotting patches. If you see them, remove the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground.


Instruction: What are the symptoms of black pod disease in cocoa?

Response: Black pod disease shows as brown or black rotting patches on the pods. It can happen at any stage of growth. If you see this, pick the bad pods and get rid of them properly.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from spreading to my other crops?

Response: My friend, first thing first, you must remove and destroy any heavily infested plant parts right away. Aphids spread quickly, so don't wait. Also, plant your cowpea early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Intercropping with maize at a 4:1 ratio can also help reduce aphid pressure. Today, check your plants carefully and remove any with many aphids.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaves turn yellow and wilt?

Response: Na cowpea aphids dey cause am. Dem suck sap from your plants, making dem weak and yellow. The thing is, they also spread viruses, so small infestation can become big problem fast. Today, mix neem oil with soap and spray on your plants to control dem.


Instruction: What is the best way to prevent cowpea aphids in my farm?

Response: To prevent cowpea aphids, plant your cowpea early in the season before peak aphid populations arrive. Intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Today, check your farm's location and plan your planting accordingly.


Instruction: My cowpea plants have sticky stuff on the leaves and black mould is growing. What is happening?

Response: That sticky stuff is called honeydew, and it's made by cowpea aphids. The black mould grows on it and blocks sunlight. To fix this, spray your plants with neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested parts. Today, start preparing your spray mixture.


Instruction: How do I know if my cowpea has aphids?

Response: Cowpea aphids are small, shiny black or dark brown insects that cluster on young shoots, flowers, and pods. If you see them, your plants might have stunted growth, leaf curl, yellowing, or wilting. Check your plants today and look for these signs.


Instruction: Can cowpea aphids harm my other crops?

Response: Yes, cowpea aphids can spread to other crops and cause big problems. They spread over 30 plant viruses, so even a small infestation can be dangerous. To stop them from spreading, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts right away. Today, inspect your cowpea plants carefully.


Instruction: What natural enemies of cowpea aphids can I protect?

Response: Ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps are natural enemies of cowpea aphids. They feed on aphids and help control their population. To protect them, avoid using broad-spectrum insecticides. Today, look for these helpful insects in your farm.


Instruction: Is it true cowpea improves soil for other crops?

Response: Yes, that's true! Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, making it more fertile for the next crop. So, planting cowpea is good for your farm's health. Today, plan where to plant your cowpea to benefit other crops next season.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are not growing well. How I go treat am?

Response: If your cowpea plants are not growing well, they might have aphids. Look for small, shiny black or dark brown insects on young shoots, flowers, and pods. To treat them, spray your plants with neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Today, start preparing your spray mixture.


Instruction: What should I do if I see cowpea aphids on my farm?

Response: No need to panic. First, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the aphids from spreading. Then, spray your plants with neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Today, start by removing the worst-infested plants.


Instruction: My mango tree leaves are getting dark brown spots. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that loves wet weather. First thing first, pick up all fallen leaves and fruits from under the tree. They carry the fungus. Next week, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride on the tree. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I dey worry my mango flowers don spoil before fruit even form. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this is blossom blight from anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers. The thing is, you need to spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering. Do this every 10 days in rainy season. Also, prune the tree to let air move through better.


Instruction: How I go know when my mangoes ready for harvest?

Response: Look for a slight colour change at the tip of the fruit. That's the sign for most varieties. But be very careful when picking. Don't drop the fruits or bruise them. Handle them gently and store in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: My harvested mangoes turn black after 2 days. What is the problem?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. You can't see it until the fruit ripens. To prevent this, spray the tree with mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering. Also, harvest carefully and don't let fruits get wounded or bruised.


Instruction: What should I do after harvesting mangoes?

Response: Store them in a cool dry place immediately. Handle the fruits with care — any wounds or bruises let the anthracnose fungus in. Also, clean up under the tree. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits. They carry fungal spores.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: Prune your tree after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air flow. Avoid overhead irrigation. Pick up all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango tree has too many branches. Should I cut some?

Response: Yes, prune the tree after harvest. Remove dead wood and cut branches to let air move through better. This helps prevent anthracnose. Also, pick up all fallen leaves and fruits from under the tree.


Instruction: I want to spray my mango tree. When is the best time?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride during flowering. Then repeat every 10 days during rainy season. But first, prune the tree to improve air circulation. Also, clean up under the tree. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits.


Instruction: How I go treat mango anthracnose na?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and every 10 days during rains. But first, prune the tree to let air move through better. Also, pick up all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. They carry the fungus.


Instruction: What is the best way to harvest mangoes?

Response: Harvest when you see a slight colour change at the tip. Be very careful — don't drop the fruits or bruise them. Handle them gently and store in a cool dry place right away. This prevents anthracnose from spoiling the fruits.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from attacking my plants?

Response: My friend, first thing first: plant your cowpea early in the season. This helps you avoid the worst of the dry season aphid populations. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio — this reduces aphid pressure. Check your farm this week to see if you need to start neem oil sprays.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause cowpea leaf curl?

Response: Aphids! Those tiny black or brown insects suck sap from your plants, causing leaves to curl, yellow, and wilt. The thing is, they also spread viruses, so you must act fast. Check your farm today and remove any heavily infested parts before the whole farm is affected.


Instruction: Is it true cowpea can improve my soil?

Response: Yes, my friend! Cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil, making it richer for the next crop. Plant cowpea this season and your land will thank you later. Just remember to intercrop with maize to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: How do I know if my cowpea has aphids?

Response: Look for small shiny black or dark brown insects clustered on young shoots, flowers, or pods. You might also see sticky honeydew on the leaves or black sooty mould. If you see these signs, act fast to prevent the infestation from spreading. Check your plants today and remove any heavily infested parts.


Instruction: Can I plant cowpea next to another farm that has aphids?

Response: No, no, no! Avoid planting downwind or next to infested farms. Aphids spread easily, and you don't want them jumping to your plants. If you must plant nearby, start neem oil sprays as a preventive measure. Check your farm this week to stay ahead of the problem.


Instruction: What natural enemies of cowpea aphids should I protect?

Response: Ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps are your friends! They feed on aphids and help control the infestation. Avoid using broad-spectrum insecticides that kill these helpful creatures. Instead, use targeted sprays like neem oil or garlic spray. Check your farm today to see if you have any natural enemies already working for you.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow. What should I do?

Response: Yellow leaves can be a sign of aphid infestation. Check for small black or brown insects on your plants. If you find them, remove and destroy heavily infested parts immediately to stop the spread. Then, consider starting neem oil sprays. Act fast to save your crop!


Instruction: How can I prevent aphids from attacking my cowpea?

Response: Plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to infested farms. Start neem oil sprays as a preventive measure this week.


Instruction: Wetin I go do make cowpea no get aphids?

Response: First, plant early to avoid the worst of the dry season aphids. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Also, avoid planting next to infested farms. Start neem oil sprays this week as a preventive measure.


Instruction: Is it safe to use chemical sprays on cowpea aphids?

Response: Only as a last resort, my friend. If you must use chemicals, imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray can work. But first, try neem oil or garlic sprays. Always follow the label instructions carefully. Check your farm today to see if you need to take action.


Instruction: How is rice blast different from other rice diseases?

Response: My friend, rice blast is the most destructive rice disease in the world. The thing is, it causes diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions on leaves with grey centres and brown edges. But the worst is neck blast, which attacks the base of the grain stalk and makes it fall over. If you see these signs, act fast and spray fungicide. Plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or FARO 57 next season.


Instruction: What makes rice blast worse than other diseases?

Response: Rice blast is like a fire in your farm. It can cut your yield by 70 to 80 percent in bad years. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. If you over-apply nitrogen fertilizer, you're feeding the fungus directly. So, use balanced NPK fertilizer and never exceed the recommended nitrogen dose. Check your fields regularly and spray fungicide at the first sign of trouble.


Instruction: How is rice blast different from other fungus diseases?

Response: Rice blast is caused by a specific fungus called Magnaporthe oryzae. It attacks leaves and stems, but the most dangerous form is neck blast, which can make your rice stalks fall over. Other fungus diseases may not be as destructive. To stop blast, plant resistant varieties and avoid too much nitrogen. My advice: burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: Why is neck blast more dangerous than leaf blast?

Response: Neck blast is more dangerous because it attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. This means you lose the grain before harvest. Leaf blast is bad, but neck blast is worse. To prevent it, spray fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything, so be ready to act when you see the first signs.


Instruction: How is rice blast different from other diseases that attack rice leaves?

Response: Rice blast causes diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions with grey centres and brown edges. Other diseases may cause different patterns. The thing is, blast is very destructive. To stop it, plant resistant varieties like NERICA series and avoid over-applying nitrogen. Check your fields regularly and spray fungicide at the first sign of trouble.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause rice blast dey different from other rice diseases?

Response: Rice blast dey cause by a special fungus called Magnaporthe oryzae. Na im dey cause diamond-shaped lesions on leaves and neck blast for the stalk. Other diseases no dey as bad as this one. To stop am, you must plant resistant varieties and no over-apply nitrogen. Burn rice straw after harvest to destroy the fungus spores.


Instruction: How is rice blast different from other diseases that attack rice stems?

Response: Rice blast attacks the stems, especially the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. This is called neck blast and it is very destructive. Other stem diseases may not be as bad. To prevent neck blast, spray fungicide at the boot stage. Timing is everything, so be ready to act when you see the first signs.


Instruction: Why is rice blast more destructive than other rice diseases?

Response: Rice blast is the most destructive rice disease in the world. It can cut your yield by 70 to 80 percent in bad years. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. If you over-apply nitrogen fertilizer, you're feeding the fungus directly. So, use balanced NPK fertilizer and never exceed the recommended nitrogen dose. Check your fields regularly and spray fungicide at the first sign of trouble.


Instruction: How is rice blast different from other diseases that attack rice grains?

Response: Rice blast attacks the grains by first attacking the stem, causing it to fall over before harvest. This is called neck blast and it is very destructive. Other grain diseases may not be as bad. To prevent neck blast, spray fungicide at the boot stage. Timing is everything, so be ready to act when you see the first signs.


Instruction: Why is rice blast more dangerous than other diseases that attack rice leaves?

Response: Rice blast is more dangerous because it can spread quickly and cut your yield by up to 80 percent. The fungus loves cool nights and high humidity. If you over-apply nitrogen fertilizer, you're feeding the fungus directly. So, use balanced NPK fertilizer and never exceed the recommended nitrogen dose. Check your fields regularly and spray fungicide at the first sign of trouble. Plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or FARO 57 next season.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have dark brown spots with rings and yellow edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is early blight. It starts on lower leaves first. First thing first, remove and burn those infected leaves today. Do not compost them.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my tomato leaves turn grey-green then brown fast-fast?

Response: Ah, this is late blight. It spreads very fast in wet weather. Check your farm now — remove and burn any bad leaves before it spreads more.


Instruction: My tomato plants have spots and the leaves are dying from the bottom up. What is happening?

Response: This is early blight. It attacks older leaves first. Pick those bad leaves and burn them today. Do not leave them on the ground.


Instruction: I see grey patches on my tomato leaves and the plants are dying quickly. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is late blight. It kills plants fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected parts now to stop it spreading.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with rings. What should I do?

Response: This is early blight. Remove and burn those spotted leaves today. Do not compost them. Then spray fungicide every week during rain.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are turning grey and brown fast. What is this problem?

Response: This is late blight. It spreads quickly in wet weather. Remove and burn bad leaves now to protect the rest of your plants.


Instruction: I notice brown spots with rings on my tomato plant's lower leaves. What is this?

Response: This is early blight. It starts from the bottom. Remove and burn those infected leaves today. Do not compost them.


Instruction: My tomato plants have grey spots that turn brown quickly. What is wrong?

Response: This is late blight. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn bad leaves now to save the healthy parts.


Instruction: I see dark brown spots with rings on my tomato leaves. What is this?

Response: This is early blight. It starts on lower leaves. Remove and burn those bad leaves today. Do not compost them.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are turning grey-green then brown. What is happening?

Response: This is late blight. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected leaves now to stop it spreading.


Instruction: My friend, I see small black bugs all over my cowpea leaves. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is cowpea aphid. They suck sap and cause big problems. First thing first, don't panic. Don't use just any chemical, follow the label instructions carefully if you must use one. Today, check your farm and remove heavily infested parts before they spread.


Instruction: I no de see any small small black bug for my cowpea farm, but my leaves dey turn yellow. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is likely cowpea aphid. They hide in young shoots and flowers. Don't wait until you see them, check your farm today. Don't plant cowpea next to an infested farm, it will spread. Plant early to escape peak aphid populations.


Instruction: I hear cowpea aphid dey cause big damage. How I go prevent am?

Response: The thing is, don't plant cowpea alone. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. Don't plant downwind or next to infested farms. Plant early to escape peak aphid populations. Today, check your farm and remove any infested parts.


Instruction: I dey fear say my cowpea don spoil because of small black bugs. How I go save am?

Response: Don't worry, my friend. This is cowpea aphid. Don't use any chemical without reading the label. Try neem oil spray mixed with soap first. Today, check your farm and remove heavily infested parts.


Instruction: I see small black bugs on my cowpea. I hear say I suppose spray chemical. Wetin be the best one?

Response: Don't rush to use chemical. Try neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray first. If you must use chemical, imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray are options, but follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your farm and remove heavily infested parts.


Instruction: I no know how to manage cowpea aphid. Wetin I suppose do?

Response: Don't plant cowpea alone. Intercrop with maize. Don't plant next to infested farms. Plant early. Today, check your farm and remove any infested parts.


Instruction: I see small black bugs on my cowpea. I hear say I suppose cut the leaves. Is this true?

Response: Yes, my friend. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts before aphids spread. Don't wait until the whole farm is affected. Today, check your farm and remove any infested parts.


Instruction: I no like chemical. How I go control cowpea aphid without chemical?

Response: Don't worry, my friend. You can use neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles, hoverflies and parasitic wasps. Today, check your farm and remove heavily infested parts.


Instruction: I see small black bugs on my cowpea. I hear say I suppose use any chemical. Is this true?

Response: No, my friend. Don't use any chemical without reading the label. Try neem oil spray mixed with soap first. If you must use chemical, imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray are options, but follow the label instructions carefully. Today, check your farm and remove heavily infested parts.


Instruction: I no know how to prevent cowpea aphid. Wetin I suppose do?

Response: Don't plant cowpea alone. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. Don't plant downwind or next to infested farms. Plant early to escape peak aphid populations. Today, check your farm and remove any infested parts.


Instruction: How does black pod disease spread in cocoa farms?

Response: My friend, black pod disease spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. One infected pod can spread to ten others if you don't act quickly. The thing is, it loves shade and dampness, so keep your farm open and dry. First thing first, remove any infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground, I tell you.


Instruction: My cocoa pods don turn brown and black, wetin dey cause am?

Response: That's black pod disease, my friend. It's caused by a fungus that loves wet weather. The thing is, it spreads very fast, so you must act quickly. Remove the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground, o. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in.


Instruction: What conditions make black pod disease spread quickly?

Response: Black pod disease spreads quickly in wet, humid, and shaded conditions. The fungus loves dampness, so it spreads like fire in the rainy season. To stop it, keep your farm open and dry. Prune your trees regularly to let more light and air in. And always remove and bury or burn any infected pods.


Instruction: How can I prevent black pod disease from spreading in my cocoa farm?

Response: To stop black pod disease from spreading, you must keep your farm dry and open. Prune your trees regularly to let more light and air in. Remove any infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground, o. Also, apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: Why is it important to remove infected cocoa pods immediately?

Response: You must remove infected pods immediately because one bad pod can infect ten others. The fungus spreads very fast in wet conditions. So, first thing first, pick the bad pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground, I tell you. This will help stop the disease from spreading to the rest of your farm.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black patches on my cocoa pods?

Response: If you see black patches on your cocoa pods, it's black pod disease. Don't panic, but act fast. Remove the infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground, o. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: How does pruning help in controlling black pod disease?

Response: Pruning helps control black pod disease by letting more light and air into your farm. The fungus loves shade and dampness, so keeping your farm open and dry stops it from spreading. Prune your trees after each harvest to allow light and air into the canopy. This will help keep your farm healthy.


Instruction: Can black pod disease destroy my entire cocoa harvest?

Response: Yes, black pod disease can destroy up to one third of your harvest in a bad season if you don't manage it well. But don't worry, you can control it. Remove infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Prune your trees to let more light and air in. And apply copper-based fungicide during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What is the best way to dispose of infected cocoa pods?

Response: The best way to dispose of infected cocoa pods is to bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground, o. This will stop the fungus from spreading to other pods. Also, remove any mummified pods and deadwood in one go. This is called sanitation harvesting, and it helps keep your farm healthy.


Instruction: How often should I apply fungicide to prevent black pod disease?

Response: You should apply copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. This will help prevent black pod disease from spreading. But remember, always remove and bury or burn any infected pods. And prune your trees to let more light and air in. Follow the label instructions carefully when using any chemical.


Instruction: How can I tell if fall armyworm is attacking my maize?

Response: My friend, check for ragged holes in the leaves that look like windowpanes. The thing is, if you see wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl, that's the clearest sign of fall armyworm. Scout early morning or evening when the caterpillars come out. Check 10-20 plants per field. If you see these signs, act fast!


Instruction: My maize don spoil, leaf dey look like window pane, wetin dey cause am?

Response: That's fall armyworm, my friend. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and eat the leaves. You'll see ragged holes and wet sawdust-like droppings. First thing first, check your plants early morning or evening. If you confirm it's fall armyworm, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl.


Instruction: What is the best way to control fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: For young caterpillars, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This scratches and kills them. Neem-based sprays also work well in the first 2 weeks. If the infestation is bad, you might need chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos — always follow the label dosage. Today, go and scout your field early morning or evening.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm from attacking my maize?

Response: Plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Intercropping with beans or soybean can also reduce fall armyworm attacks. Make sure to space your maize properly — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. This week, check your planting schedule and plan accordingly.


Instruction: What should I do if I find fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: No need to panic. First, check the severity of the infestation by scouting early morning or evening. For light infestations, mix fine sand with wood ash and apply it into the whorl. For heavier infestations, consider neem-based sprays or chemical options like emamectin benzoate, spinetoram, or chlorpyrifos — always follow the label dosage. Today, start scouting your field.


Instruction: How often should I apply fertilizer to my maize?

Response: Apply nitrogen fertilizer in two splits — half at planting and the other half when the maize reaches knee height. This helps the maize grow strong and healthy. Don't forget to space your maize properly — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. This week, check your fertilizer supply.


Instruction: Why is it important to harvest maize promptly?

Response: Harvesting promptly when the maize is dry helps avoid weevils and post-harvest losses in storage. The longer you leave the maize in the field, the more likely it is to be attacked by pests. Make sure to plan your harvest for the right time. This week, check the moisture level of your maize.


Instruction: How can I tell when my maize is ready for harvest?

Response: Your maize is ready for harvest when the leaves turn brown and dry, and the cobs feel hard. Harvest promptly to avoid weevils and post-harvest losses. Make sure to plan your harvest for the right time. Today, go and check your maize field.


Instruction: What is the best spacing for maize?

Response: Space your maize at 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows, with one seed per hole. Proper spacing helps the maize grow well and reduces the risk of pest attacks. This week, check your maize spacing and adjust if necessary.


Instruction: How can I reduce fall armyworm attacks in my maize field?

Response: Intercropping maize with beans or soybean can reduce fall armyworm attacks significantly. Also, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Make sure to space your maize properly — 75 cm between rows and 25 cm within rows. This week, plan your intercropping.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and bunchy at the top. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is bunchy top virus. It is very bad news. The plant is already lost. First thing first: chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do this today before the virus spreads.


Instruction: I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves. What is this?

Response: Those dark green streaks mean bunchy top virus. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Cut down the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: My banana plant leaves are stiff and crowded at the top. What is the problem?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. The plant is already ruined. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat today. Do not wait. The virus spreads quickly and will kill all your plants.


Instruction: My plantain plant is not growing well. The leaves are short and stiff. What is wrong?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. It stops the plant from growing properly. The plant is already lost. Cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat immediately. Do not delay.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown. What is the cause?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. The plant is already dead. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat today. Do not move any suckers from this farm. The virus is inside them even if you can't see it.


Instruction: My plantain plant has dark spots on the leaves. What is this?

Response: Those dark spots mean bunchy top virus. The plant is already lost. Cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat immediately. Do not waste time. The virus spreads quickly.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are crowded at the top and turning yellow. What is happening?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. The plant is already ruined. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat today. Do not move any suckers from this farm. The virus is inside them.


Instruction: My plantain plant is not growing. The leaves are stiff and crowded. What is the problem?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. The plant is already lost. Cut it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat immediately. Do not delay. The virus spreads quickly.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown. What is the cause?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. The plant is already dead. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat today. Do not move any suckers from this farm. The virus is inside them even if you can't see it.


Instruction: My plantain plant has dark green streaks on the leaves. What is this?

Response: Those dark green streaks mean bunchy top virus. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Cut down the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will stop the virus from spreading to other plants.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have yellow patches and are curling up. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The thing is, it's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First thing first, remove and burn those infected plants right away to stop the virus spreading. Then, check your other plants carefully.


Instruction: I just saw some plants with strange leaf patterns. Is this a problem?

Response: Yes, my friend, those patterns could mean mosaic disease. It's a big problem because it makes the tubers small and worthless. You must remove and destroy those plants immediately. Also, never replant stems from this farm again.


Instruction: My cassava plants have weird leaf patterns. How I go treat am?

Response: This is mosaic disease, my friend. The best treatment is prevention. First, remove and destroy the sick plants. Then, plant only disease-free stems from healthy plants. You can also spray neem-based solutions to control whiteflies that spread the disease.


Instruction: I planted cassava but the leaves are not looking good. What is the problem?

Response: It could be mosaic disease. The leaves with yellow and green patches and curling are a bad sign. You must remove and destroy those plants quickly. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 next time.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are all curled up and have strange colors. What is the cause?

Response: This is mosaic disease, caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, it's very contagious. You must remove and destroy those infected plants immediately. Then, check your other plants for signs of disease.


Instruction: I no dey understand, my cassava leaves don spoil. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is mosaic disease, my friend. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, it's very serious. You must remove and destroy those plants right away. Then, plant only disease-free stems next time.


Instruction: I planted cassava but the leaves are not healthy. What should I do?

Response: It might be mosaic disease. The thing is, it's caused by a virus. First, remove and destroy the sick plants. Then, check your other plants carefully. Plant only disease-free stems next time and control whiteflies with neem sprays.


Instruction: My cassava plants have yellow and green patches on the leaves. Is this normal?

Response: No, my friend, this is not normal. It's mosaic disease. The thing is, it's very serious. You must remove and destroy those plants immediately. Then, plant only disease-free stems from healthy plants.


Instruction: I see some cassava plants with strange leaf patterns. What is happening?

Response: This is mosaic disease, caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, it's very contagious. You must remove and destroy those infected plants right away. Then, check your other plants for signs of disease.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are all curled up and have strange colors. What is the problem?

Response: This is mosaic disease, my friend. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, it's very serious. You must remove and destroy those plants immediately. Then, plant only disease-free stems from healthy plants.


Instruction: How does the banana bunchy top virus spread?

Response: My friend, this virus spreads through tiny insects called banana aphids. They carry the virus from sick plants to healthy ones. The thing is, once a plant gets infected, it's a total loss. First thing first: if you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This week, check your plants carefully for dark green streaks and dots on the leaves.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause plantain bunchy top?

Response: The banana bunchy top virus causes this problem. It makes leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. No cure for this one, I tell you. If you see these signs, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat right away. Today, inspect your plantain farm for any strange leaf patterns.


Instruction: Can banana bunchy top virus spread through the soil?

Response: No, the virus does not spread through the soil. It spreads only through banana aphids moving from infected to healthy plants. The moment you see symptoms, chop the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This week, check your plants for any signs of the virus.


Instruction: What are the signs that my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top of the plant. You'll also see dark green streaks and dots along the veins and leaf edges that turn yellow then brown. There is no cure, so if you see these signs, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, examine your plantain leaves closely for any unusual patterns.


Instruction: How can I prevent the spread of bunchy top in my plantain farm?

Response: First thing first: never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus hides inside the sucker with no visible signs. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. If you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This week, source your next batch of suckers from a disease-free area.


Instruction: Is there any treatment for plantain bunchy top?

Response: No, my friend, there is no treatment for bunchy top. If you see symptoms, do not waste money on treatment. Chop the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Today, check your plants for any signs of the virus.


Instruction: Can I save a plantain plant with bunchy top?

Response: No, you cannot save a plant with bunchy top. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This week, remove any infected plants from your farm immediately.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll also see dark green streaks and dots along the veins and leaf edges that turn yellow then brown. If you see these signs, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, inspect your plantain leaves for any unusual patterns.


Instruction: What should I do if my plantain has bunchy top?

Response: First thing first: chop the infected plant to the ground and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do not waste money on treatment. This week, remove any infected plants from your farm immediately.


Instruction: Can bunchy top spread to other plants in my farm?

Response: Yes, my friend, it can spread to other plants through banana aphids. The moment you see symptoms, chop the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This week, check all your plants for any signs of the virus.


Instruction: My friend, my mango tree leaves have brown spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. It's a fungus that causes dark brown spots on leaves. The thing is, it also attacks flowers and fruits. First thing first, remove all the infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. This will help stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: I go harvest my mangoes, but after 2 days, dem don turn black. Why this happen?

Response: Ah, I tell you, this is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit before you harvested it. When the fruit ripens, the disease shows itself. To prevent this, harvest carefully and store the fruits in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: What can I do to stop mango anthracnose from killing my flowers?

Response: Mango anthracnose loves wet conditions. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage, and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How can I tell when my mangoes are ready to harvest?

Response: For most varieties, look for a slight colour change at the tip of the mango. This is a sign that the fruit is mature. Harvest carefully, don't drop the fruits, and store them in a cool, dry place right away.


Instruction: My mango tree has many dead branches. Should I cut them?

Response: Yes, my friend, prune your mango tree after every harvest. Remove dead wood to improve air circulation. This helps prevent diseases like mango anthracnose. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly.


Instruction: What is the best way to water my mango tree to avoid diseases?

Response: Avoid overhead irrigation. It keeps the leaves wet for too long, which encourages fungus. Water at the base of the tree instead. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits to reduce fungal spores.


Instruction: I see dark spots on my mango fruits. What is this and how can I treat it?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus causes dark sunken lesions on the fruit. To treat it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango tree flowers are dying before fruiting. Why is this happening?

Response: This is likely mango anthracnose. The fungus causes blossom blight, killing flowers before fruit sets. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: First, prune your trees after harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Remove fallen leaves and fruits regularly. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at the flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mangoes are getting black spots after harvest. What can I do?

Response: This is mango anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit before harvest. Handle fruits with extreme care to avoid wounds and bruises. Harvest carefully, don't drop them, and store in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: A farmer notices small black bugs on his cowpea plants and asks: 'I see tiny black insects all over my cowpea leaves. What are they and how do they spread?'

Response: My friend, those are cowpea aphids. They spread quickly by flying to new plants or crawling from plant to plant. They also spread disease when they feed. First thing first, check your farm carefully and remove any heavily infested parts right away.


Instruction: A farmer wants to know how to prevent aphids from spreading to his cowpea farm: 'How I go stop dis cowpea aphid from comot for my farm?'

Response: To stop aphids from coming to your farm, plant cowpea early before the dry season. Also, don't plant near other farms that already have aphids. Intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Check your plants often and remove any infested parts quickly.


Instruction: A farmer sees aphids on his cowpea and asks: 'My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and sticky. What is happening and how did this spread?'

Response: That sticky mess is honeydew from aphids. They suck sap from leaves and leave this sticky waste. The honeydew encourages black sooty mould. Aphids spread by flying or crawling to new plants. Check your farm now and remove any badly infested parts to stop them from spreading.


Instruction: A farmer wants to know if aphids will harm his cowpea: 'Will cowpea aphids kill my plants?'

Response: Aphids won't kill your plants directly, but they weaken them by sucking sap. They also spread viruses that can kill plants. The honeydew they produce blocks sunlight. Check your farm today and remove any heavily infested parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: A farmer asks about natural ways to control aphids: 'How I go control cowpea aphid for my farm without chemical?'

Response: You can control aphids naturally with neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles and hoverflies — they eat aphids. Check your farm now and remove any badly infested parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: A farmer notices aphids on his cowpea and asks: 'My cowpea has tiny black bugs and black mould on leaves. How did this happen?'

Response: The tiny black bugs are aphids, and the black mould is from their sticky honeydew waste. Aphids spread by flying or crawling to new plants. Check your farm carefully and remove any heavily infested parts right away to stop them from spreading.


Instruction: A farmer wants to know how to prevent aphids from spreading in his farm: 'How I go stop dis cowpea aphid from spread for my farm?'

Response: To stop aphids from spreading, plant cowpea early and intercrop with maize at 4:1 ratio. Avoid planting near infested farms. Check your plants often and remove any infested parts quickly. Do this today to protect your farm.


Instruction: A farmer sees aphids on his cowpea and asks: 'My cowpea leaves are curling and have tiny black bugs. What is this and how did it spread?'

Response: Those tiny black bugs are cowpea aphids. They spread by flying or crawling to new plants. They suck sap and cause leaves to curl. Check your farm now and remove any heavily infested parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: A farmer wants to know if chemical control is necessary: 'When I suppose use chemical for cowpea aphid?'

Response: Only use chemical control as a last resort. First try neem oil spray or garlic spray. If the infestation is very bad, you can use imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray. Follow the label instructions carefully. Check your farm today and decide if you need chemical control.


Instruction: A farmer asks about the impact of aphids on his cowpea: 'Wetin cowpea aphid dey cause for my farm?'

Response: Cowpea aphids suck sap from your plants, causing stunted growth, leaf curl, and yellowing. They also spread viruses and produce sticky honeydew that encourages black sooty mould. Check your farm now and remove any heavily infested parts to stop the spread.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with rings and yellow edges. What is happening to my plants?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. It starts on older leaves at the bottom of the plant. First thing first, remove those infected leaves and burn them — don't compost. Then spray with a fungicide like mancozeb, following the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I dey see wetin dey look like water marks on my tomato leaves, den dey turn brown. Na wetin dey cause this?

Response: Oya, this one be late blight. Na wet weather dey make am worse. Quick quick, remove and burn any bad leaves. Also, spray fungicide every week during rainy season. And make sure you water at the base, not on the leaves.


Instruction: What disease causes grey-green patches on tomato leaves that turn brown quickly?

Response: That is late blight, my brother. It spreads fast in wet weather. Remove and destroy infected leaves immediately. Spray with copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Also, avoid overhead watering to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: My tomato plants have dark brown spots with rings and yellow halos. What is wrong?

Response: This is early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads up. Remove and burn infected leaves right away. Then spray with mancozeb or chlorothalonil, following the label instructions carefully. Also, rotate your tomato plot next season.


Instruction: Tomato leaves don spoil for me. Na how I go know if na blight or wetin?

Response: If the spots be brown with rings and yellow edges, na early blight. If spots be grey-green and turn brown fast, na late blight. For both, remove and burn bad leaves. Then spray fungicide every week during rain. And water at the base, not on leaves.


Instruction: What are the signs of tomato blight and how do I stop it spreading?

Response: Early blight shows brown spots with rings and yellow edges. Late blight causes grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Both spread fast in wet weather. Remove and burn infected leaves immediately. Spray fungicide every week during rain. Avoid overhead watering and rotate your tomato plot.


Instruction: How can I tell if my tomato plants have blight or just pests?

Response: Blight causes spots or patches on leaves, not holes like pests. Early blight spots have rings and yellow edges. Late blight spots are grey-green and turn brown fast. Remove and burn infected leaves. Spray fungicide every week during rain. And water at the base to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: My tomato leaves have brown spots with rings. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, that is early blight. It starts on lower leaves and spreads up. Remove and burn infected leaves right away. Then spray with mancozeb or chlorothalonil, following the label instructions carefully. Also, rotate your tomato plot next season.


Instruction: What disease causes tomato leaves to turn brown quickly in wet weather?

Response: That is late blight. It spreads very fast in wet, cool conditions. Remove and burn infected leaves immediately. Spray with copper-based fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season. Also, avoid overhead watering to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: How do I know if my tomato plants have blight or just lack water?

Response: Blight causes spots or patches on leaves, not just wilting. Early blight spots have rings and yellow edges. Late blight spots are grey-green and turn brown fast. Remove and burn infected leaves. Spray fungicide every week during rain. And water at the base to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: My friend, I see black spots on my cocoa pods. What I no suppose do?

Response: Ah, my friend, you must not leave those infected pods on the ground. The thing is, they will spread the disease fast. First thing first, pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. Then, prune your trees to let in more air and sunlight.


Instruction: What is the worst mistake a cocoa farmer can make during the rainy season?

Response: The worst mistake is not removing infected pods quickly. One bad pod can infect many others. You must pick and destroy them right away. Also, do not forget to apply copper-based fungicide every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I hear black pod disease can destroy my cocoa farm. How I go prevent am?

Response: You must not wait until the disease starts. First, do not plant new cocoa trees too late in the rainy season. Also, do not leave deadwood or mummified pods in your farm. Remove them all at once during sanitation harvesting. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: Why I no suppose leave infected cocoa pods on the ground?

Response: Leaving infected pods on the ground is very dangerous. They will spread the disease to healthy pods very fast. You must pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity in your farm.


Instruction: What is the biggest source of black pod disease in cocoa farms?

Response: Overstay pods are the biggest source of infection. You must harvest ripe pods every 2 weeks. Do not wait too long. Also, remove any diseased pods immediately and destroy them properly. This will help keep your farm healthy.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. What I suppose do first?

Response: First, do not panic. Pick up the infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Then, prune your trees to let in more air and sunlight. This will help stop the disease from spreading.


Instruction: Why I no suppose plant new cocoa trees late in the rainy season?

Response: Planting new trees late in the rainy season is risky. The wet and humid conditions will make it easier for black pod disease to spread. You must plant early and also remove any infected pods quickly. This will help protect your new trees.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage black pod disease in cocoa farms?

Response: The best way is to remove infected pods immediately and destroy them properly. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees regularly to improve airflow and reduce humidity. Apply copper-based fungicide every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I hear black pod disease can destroy up to one third of my harvest. How I go stop am?

Response: You must not wait until the disease starts. Remove any infected pods immediately and destroy them properly. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let in more air and sunlight. Apply copper-based fungicide every 2 to 3 weeks during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What is the worst thing to do when you see black pod disease in your cocoa farm?

Response: The worst thing is to ignore the infected pods and leave them on the ground. They will spread the disease very fast. You must pick them up and bury them deep or burn them. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow and reduce humidity in your farm.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have yellow spots and are curling. What should I not do?

Response: My friend, don't ignore this sign. Don't wait to see what happens. This is cassava mosaic disease. Don't leave infected plants in the farm — remove and destroy them immediately before the whitefly spreads it further. Today, check all your plants and remove any with mosaic patterns.


Instruction: How I go plant cassava if I don see mosaic before?

Response: First thing first, no need to panic. The thing is, you must always use disease-free planting stems. Don't take stems from a farm that had mosaic before. The virus travels with the stem. Go to a reliable source for your planting materials.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava. What should I avoid?

Response: Don't plant at the wrong time. Plant at the start of the rainy season for best establishment. Don't plant too close together. Space plants 1 metre by 1 metre for good yield and ease of weeding. Today, measure your farm and plan your spacing.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don spoil. What I no go do?

Response: Don't ignore the problem. This is likely cassava mosaic disease. Don't leave infected plants in the farm. Remove and destroy them immediately. Don't replant stems from this farm. Today, check all your plants and remove any with mosaic patterns.


Instruction: What is the worst mistake I can make with cassava plants?

Response: The worst mistake is using infected stems for planting. Don't take stems from a farm that had mosaic before. The virus travels with the stem. Always use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. Today, source your planting materials from a reliable place.


Instruction: I see whiteflies on my cassava. What should I not do?

Response: Don't ignore them. Whiteflies spread cassava mosaic disease. Don't let them multiply. Control them with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps around the farm. Today, go to your local agro shop and get neem-based spray.


Instruction: What should I avoid when planting cassava?

Response: Don't plant at the wrong time. Plant at the start of the rainy season. Don't plant too close together. Space plants 1 metre by 1 metre. Don't ignore weeds. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. Today, plan your planting time and spacing.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have mosaic. What I no go do?

Response: Don't leave the infected plants in the farm. Don't replant stems from this farm. The virus travels with the stem. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Today, check all your plants and remove any with mosaic patterns.


Instruction: What is the biggest no-no in cassava farming?

Response: The biggest no-no is using infected stems for planting. Don't take stems from a farm that had mosaic before. Always use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. Today, source your planting materials from a reliable place.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava. What should I avoid doing?

Response: Don't plant at the wrong time. Plant at the start of the rainy season. Don't plant too close together. Space plants 1 metre by 1 metre. Don't ignore weeds. Weed regularly for the first 3 months. Today, plan your planting time and spacing.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top disease?

Response: My friend, check your plantain leaves. If they become short, stiff, and crowded at the top, with dark green streaks turning yellow then brown, it's bunchy top. The plant will stop growing and won't produce a bunch. No need to panic, but act fast.


Instruction: My plantain leaves don spoil, get short and stiff for top. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, that sound like bunchy top virus. The leaves get short, stiff, and crowded at the top with dark green streaks. The thing is, there's no cure. First thing first: chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground.


Instruction: What is the best time to plant plantain suckers?

Response: Plant your plantain suckers at the start of the rainy season. This gives them the best chance to establish well. Make sure to space them at 3 metres by 3 metres for good airflow and easy harvesting.


Instruction: How many suckers should I keep per plantain mat?

Response: Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat at any time. This is called desuckering and it helps the main plant grow strong. Remove any extra suckers to avoid overcrowding.


Instruction: Can I treat bunchy top disease with chemicals?

Response: No, no cure for bunchy top. The moment you see symptoms, chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading. Always follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: What type of fertilizer is best for plantain?

Response: Plantain loves potassium. Use a potassium-rich fertilizer because plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Apply it around the base of the plant and water well.


Instruction: How do I prevent bunchy top virus in my plantain farm?

Response: Prevention is key. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus travels inside the sucker with no visible signs. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets.


Instruction: Why is mulching important for plantain?

Response: Mulching helps retain moisture and suppresses weeds. Heavy mulching around your plantain plants will keep the soil cool and moist, which is good for their growth.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain suckers are from a disease-free source?

Response: Only buy suckers from certified clean sources or tissue culture plantlets. These are guaranteed to be free from bunchy top virus. Never take suckers from a farm that had bunchy top.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves?

Response: Those dark green streaks turning yellow then brown are signs of bunchy top virus. There's no cure, so chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading. Act fast, my friend.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are curling and turning yellow, what is happening?

Response: My friend, this could be cowpea aphids. These tiny black or brown insects suck sap from your plants. First thing first, check the underside of leaves and young shoots for them. If you see them, you must act fast to stop them spreading.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea plant to stop growing and look weak?

Response: This could be cowpea aphids my friend. They suck the life out of your plants, causing stunted growth and wilting. Look for tiny black or brown insects clustered on young shoots. If you see them, you must treat your plants quickly.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have sticky stuff on them and now black mould is growing. What is this?

Response: Ah, this is the work of cowpea aphids. They produce sticky honeydew that causes this black mould. The mould blocks sunlight and weakens your plants. Check for tiny black or brown insects on your plants, especially the young shoots and flowers.


Instruction: I see small black bugs all over my cowpea flowers. Should I worry?

Response: Yes, you should worry. These are cowpea aphids and they are very dangerous. They spread viruses and suck the sap from your plants. If you don't act fast, they will ruin your harvest. Check your plants carefully and start treatment right away.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting even though the soil is wet. What could be the problem?

Response: This could be cowpea aphids. They suck sap from your plants, causing them to wilt even when the soil is wet. Look for tiny black or brown insects clustered on young shoots. If you see them, you must treat your plants quickly.


Instruction: I notice my cowpea leaves are curling and there are small black insects on the stems. What should I do?

Response: This is cowpea aphids, my friend. They are very dangerous and can spread viruses. First, remove and destroy any heavily infested parts of your plants. Then, you can use neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray to control them.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are not doing well. The leaves are yellow and there are tiny black insects everywhere. What is the solution?

Response: These are cowpea aphids. They are sucking the life out of your plants. First, remove and destroy any heavily infested parts. Then, you can use neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. If the infestation is very bad, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide, but follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see small black bugs on my cowpea pods. Will this affect my harvest?

Response: Yes, these are cowpea aphids and they will affect your harvest if you don't act fast. They suck sap from your plants and can spread viruses. First, remove and destroy any heavily infested pods. Then, treat your plants with neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are looking weak and there are tiny black insects on the new growth. What can I do?

Response: These are cowpea aphids. They are very dangerous and can ruin your harvest. First, remove and destroy any heavily infested parts. Then, you can use neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. If the infestation is very bad, you might need to use a pyrethrin-based insecticide, but follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I notice my cowpea leaves are sticky and now have black mould. What is causing this?

Response: This is the work of cowpea aphids. They produce sticky honeydew that causes this black mould. The mould blocks sunlight and weakens your plants. Look for tiny black or brown insects on your plants, especially the young shoots and flowers. If you see them, you must treat your plants quickly.


Instruction: What is rice blast disease?

Response: Rice blast is a very bad fungus disease that attacks rice leaves and stems. On leaves, you will see diamond or spindle-shaped spots with grey centers and brown edges. The worst kind, neck blast, makes the rice stalk fall over. This disease loves cool nights and wet weather. No need to panic, but you must act fast.


Instruction: How I go treat rice blast for my friend?

Response: First thing first, when you see those spots on leaves, you must spray fungicide immediately. Use tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole — follow the label instructions carefully. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the rice head comes out. Timing is everything, my friend. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series.


Instruction: My rice leaves don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: The thing is, if your rice leaves have diamond-shaped spots with grey centers, that is rice blast disease. It is caused by a fungus that loves wet and cool weather. You must spray fungicide right away and check your fertilizer — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Reduce the nitrogen and use balanced NPK fertilizer.


Instruction: When should I spray fungicide for rice blast?

Response: You must spray fungicide at the first sign of leaf spots. For neck blast, spray at boot stage before the rice head comes out. Timing is everything. Do not wait until the disease spreads. Check your leaves every day, especially after wet weather.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast in my farm?

Response: To prevent rice blast, first plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. Do not overcrowd your seedlings during transplanting. Keep proper water levels in your paddy field — do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. After harvest, burn the rice straw to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: What is the best time to spray fungicide for neck blast?

Response: The best time to spray fungicide for neck blast is at boot stage, before the rice head comes out. Timing is everything. If you wait until the neck blast appears, it may be too late to save your crop. Check your rice stalks regularly and spray at the right time.


Instruction: My rice stalks don fall down, wetin I go do?

Response: If your rice stalks are falling down, that is neck blast disease. You must act fast. Spray fungicide immediately and check your fertilizer — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Next time, plant resistant varieties and spray at boot stage before the rice head comes out. Also, burn the rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.


Instruction: When should I burn the rice straw after harvest?

Response: You should burn the rice straw right after harvest. This destroys the fungal spores that survive in the crop residues. Do not leave the straw in the field for too long. Burn it quickly to prevent the disease from spreading to the next crop.


Instruction: How can I reduce rice blast in my farm this season?

Response: To reduce rice blast this season, first plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. Do not overcrowd your seedlings during transplanting. Keep proper water levels in your paddy field and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Never over-apply nitrogen. After harvest, burn the rice straw to destroy fungal spores. Check your leaves every day and spray fungicide at the first sign of disease.


Instruction: What should I do if I see rice blast spots on my leaves?

Response: If you see rice blast spots on your leaves, you must spray fungicide immediately. Use tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole — follow the label instructions carefully. Also, check your fertilizer — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Reduce the nitrogen and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Next time, plant resistant varieties and spray at boot stage before the rice head comes out.


Instruction: My mango leaves have dark brown spots. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose. The fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all those spotted leaves from the tree and burn them. Do not compost them. Also, clear away fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango flowers to rot before fruiting?

Response: This is blossom blight, caused by the same fungus that makes dark spots on leaves. It kills flowers before fruit can set. To fight it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Follow the label instructions carefully, and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: Why do my mangoes turn black just 2 days after harvest?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. It grows fast when the fruit ripens. To prevent this, handle fruits carefully. Do not drop them. Harvest at the right time when the tip starts changing colour. Then store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: I see dark sunken spots on my mangoes. What is this?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. It spreads in wet weather. The spots will grow bigger after harvest. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering. Repeat every 10 days in rainy season. Also, prune your tree to improve air flow.


Instruction: How do I know if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: Check for dark brown spots on leaves, rotting flowers, or sunken dark spots on fruits. These are signs of anthracnose. To fight it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering. Repeat every 10 days in rainy weather. Also, clear fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: My mango fruits have dark spots that grow bigger after harvest. What is happening?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already in the fruit. It grows fast as the fruit ripens. To prevent it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering. Repeat every 10 days in rainy season. Handle fruits carefully and store them in a cool dry place.


Instruction: What causes dark spots on mango leaves and how do I stop it?

Response: This is anthracnose, a fungal disease. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering. Repeat every 10 days in rainy weather. Also, remove and burn spotted leaves. Clear fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Prune your tree to improve air flow.


Instruction: Why my mango flowers keep dying before fruit forms?

Response: This is blossom blight, caused by the anthracnose fungus. It kills flowers before fruiting. To fight it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering. Follow the label instructions carefully. Repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation.


Instruction: How can I tell if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: Look for dark brown spots on leaves, rotting flowers, or sunken dark spots on fruits. These are signs of anthracnose. To fight it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering. Repeat every 10 days in rainy season. Also, clear fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: My mangoes look fine on the tree but turn black after harvest. What is this?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. It grows fast as the fruit ripens. To prevent it, handle fruits carefully. Do not drop them. Harvest at the right time when the tip starts changing colour. Then store them in a cool dry place immediately.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have yellow and green patches and are curling. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cassava mosaic disease. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, once plants get it, there's no cure. First thing first, pull out and burn the infected plants right away to stop the virus spreading. Then, use neem spray or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant disease-resistant varieties like TME 419.


Instruction: How I go treat cassava mosaic disease?

Response: Ah, my brother, cassava mosaic is a stubborn one. There's no medicine for the plants that already have it. But you can stop it spreading. Pull out and burn any plant with yellow and green patches on the leaves. Then, use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies that carry the virus. Also, always plant stems from healthy farms only.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cassava mosaic disease?

Response: To keep cassava mosaic away, first, plant only disease-free stems from healthy farms. Never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Also, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. And plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. This will save you a lot of trouble later.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are all twisted and have strange colors. What do I do?

Response: Oh dear, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. The best thing to do is remove and destroy those plants immediately. Do not wait, because the whiteflies will spread the virus to healthy plants. Also, use neem sprays or sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties like TME 419.


Instruction: How do I stop cassava mosaic from spreading in my farm?

Response: To stop cassava mosaic from spreading, first, remove and burn any infected plants right away. Do not leave them in the field. Then, control the whiteflies that carry the virus with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Also, always plant disease-free stems from healthy farms. This will help keep your farm safe.


Instruction: What should I do if I find cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: If you find cassava mosaic in your farm, do not panic. First, pull out and burn the infected plants immediately. This will stop the virus from spreading. Then, use neem sprays or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies. Also, plant disease-resistant varieties next time. This will help you avoid this problem in the future.


Instruction: My cassava plants have small, deformed tubers. What is the cause?

Response: Small, deformed tubers are often caused by cassava mosaic disease. The virus makes the plants weak, so they can't grow good tubers. The best thing to do is remove and destroy the infected plants. Then, control the whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. Also, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572 next time.


Instruction: How can I protect my cassava from mosaic disease?

Response: To protect your cassava from mosaic disease, first, plant only disease-free stems. Never replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Also, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. And plant resistant varieties like TME 419. This will help keep your cassava healthy.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage cassava mosaic disease?

Response: The best way to manage cassava mosaic disease is to prevent it. First, plant only disease-free stems from healthy farms. Then, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Also, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572. If you find infected plants, remove and destroy them immediately.


Instruction: How I go prevent cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: To prevent cassava mosaic in your farm, first, plant only disease-free stems. Also, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. And plant resistant varieties like TME 419. This will help keep your cassava healthy and strong. If you see any infected plants, remove and destroy them immediately.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have yellow spots and are curling up. What is happening?

Response: My friend, that sounds like cassava mosaic disease. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First thing first, remove those infected plants and destroy them. Do not compost them. Then check your other plants closely and remove any others with the same signs.


Instruction: How do I stop cassava mosaic from spreading?

Response: The best way is to use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. Also, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. And no need to panic, but plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572 next time.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cassava leaves to turn yellow and green like mosaic?

Response: That's cassava mosaic disease, my friend. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, you must remove and destroy infected plants immediately to stop it spreading. Also, use disease-free stems for planting.


Instruction: My cassava plants have strange patterns on the leaves. How do I treat them?

Response: Those patterns mean your plants have cassava mosaic disease. There's no cure, so you must remove and destroy the infected plants right away. Then, control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. Also, plant resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: What should I do if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: If your cassava has mosaic disease, you must act fast. Remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Do not compost them. Then, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. And remember, always use disease-free planting stems.


Instruction: How can I prevent cassava mosaic disease in my farm?

Response: To prevent cassava mosaic disease, always use disease-free planting stems. Also, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. And my friend, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. This will save you a lot of trouble.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and have yellow spots. How do I fix this?

Response: Those are signs of cassava mosaic disease. You must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Do not compost them. Then, control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. Also, plant resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage cassava mosaic disease?

Response: The best way is prevention. Use disease-free planting stems and control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. If you already have infected plants, remove and destroy them immediately. And remember, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572.


Instruction: How do I stop the spread of cassava mosaic in my farm?

Response: To stop the spread, remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Do not compost them. Then, control whiteflies with neem sprays or yellow sticky traps. Also, always use disease-free planting stems and plant resistant varieties.


Instruction: My cassava plants have mosaic disease. How do I treat them?

Response: There's no treatment for mosaic disease, my friend. You must remove and destroy the infected plants immediately. Do not compost them. Then, control whiteflies with neem sprays or sticky traps. And remember, always use disease-free planting stems and plant resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: How can I prevent groundnut rosette from spreading in my field?

Response: My friend, the thing is groundnut rosette spreads through aphids. First thing first, plant early at the start of rains. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or SAMNUT 23. Weed your farm well — aphids love weeds. Today, go check your local extension office for resistant varieties.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are turning yellow and plants are stunted. What is happening?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette, a deadly virus spread by aphids. Infected plants stay small with yellow, mottled leaves. There is no cure — remove infected plants immediately. Today, check your field and pull out any plants with these symptoms.


Instruction: How do I stop groundnut rosette from killing all my plants?

Response: Groundnut rosette is very dangerous, especially early in the season. Plant resistant varieties like RG 1 series. Control aphids with insecticide seed treatment before planting. Today, go to your agrodealer for insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my groundnut plant to stop growing and get small?

Response: This could be groundnut rosette, a virus spread by aphids. Infected plants stay small and bushy. There is no cure — remove sick plants immediately. Today, go around your field and pull out any plants with these symptoms.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my groundnut from groundnut rosette?

Response: To protect your groundnut, plant early at the start of rains. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23. Keep your farm weed-free — aphids love weeds. Today, start weeding your field if you haven't already.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are small and bushy with yellow leaves. How do I treat this?

Response: This is groundnut rosette, a deadly virus. There is no treatment — remove infected plants immediately. To prevent spread, plant resistant varieties next season and control aphids. Today, go around your field and pull out all infected plants.


Instruction: How can I make sure groundnut rosette does not spread in my farm?

Response: Groundnut rosette spreads through aphids. Plant early at the start of rains. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22. Keep your farm weed-free. Today, start weeding your field if you haven't already.


Instruction: What should I do if my groundnut plants have yellow bunched leaves?

Response: This is groundnut rosette, a deadly virus. There is no cure — remove infected plants immediately. To prevent spread, plant resistant varieties next season. Today, go around your field and pull out all infected plants.


Instruction: How do I stop groundnut rosette from destroying my crop?

Response: Groundnut rosette is very dangerous, especially early in the season. Plant resistant varieties like RG 1 series. Control aphids with insecticide seed treatment. Today, go to your agrodealer for insecticide seed treatment.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves are mottled and plants are stunted. What do I do?

Response: This is groundnut rosette, a deadly virus. There is no cure — remove infected plants immediately. To prevent spread, plant resistant varieties next season. Today, go around your field and pull out all infected plants.


Instruction: When is the best time to prune cocoa trees?

Response: My friend, the best time to prune cocoa trees is right after harvest. This lets light and air get inside the canopy. First thing first, use clean, sharp tools to avoid spreading disease.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my cocoa pods?

Response: You should harvest ripe cocoa pods every two weeks. Don't let them overstay on the tree — those are the ones that get sick and spread disease to others. Check your trees regularly, my friend.


Instruction: Why no establish cocoa farm late in rainy season?

Response: The thing is, if you plant too late in the rainy season, your young trees won't grow strong before the dry season. They'll struggle to survive. Start planting early in the rains, I tell you.


Instruction: Wetin be the best time to spray fungicide for black pod?

Response: You must spray copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season, every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully, my friend.


Instruction: When should I do sanitation harvesting?

Response: Sanitation harvesting is when you remove diseased pods, mummified pods, and deadwood all at once. Do this regularly, especially after the rainy season. Burn or bury them deeply — never leave them on the ground.


Instruction: How often should I mulch my cocoa trees?

Response: Mulch the base of your cocoa trees with dead leaves at the start of the dry season. This keeps the soil moist and healthy. Just don't pile it too high against the trunk, my friend.


Instruction: Can I prune cocoa trees during the rainy season?

Response: Yes, you can prune during the rainy season, but be careful. Wet conditions spread black pod disease fast. If you must prune, do it early in the day so the cuts dry quickly. Use clean tools, I tell you.


Instruction: When is the best time to plant new cocoa trees?

Response: The best time to plant new cocoa trees is at the start of the rainy season. This gives them time to grow strong roots before the dry season. Don't wait too late, my friend.


Instruction: How long should I wait before spraying fungicide again?

Response: Wait 2 to 3 weeks before spraying fungicide again. But check your trees often — if you see black pod disease spreading, you might need to spray sooner. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: When should I remove infected cocoa pods?

Response: Remove infected pods as soon as you see them. Don't wait! One bad pod can infect 10 others. Burn or bury them deeply — never leave them on the ground. Do this today if you see any, my friend.


Instruction: My friend, my cassava leaves get yellow and green patches like mosaic. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this is cassava mosaic disease. It is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, you must remove and destroy those infected plants immediately. Do not wait! Also, check your planting stems next time — make sure they come from healthy plants only.


Instruction: My cassava plants have curly leaves. Is this a problem?

Response: Yes, my friend, curly leaves are a sign of cassava mosaic disease. This virus makes your tubers small and worthless. First thing first, remove those infected plants now. Then, use neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps to control the whiteflies spreading this disease.


Instruction: I want to plant cassava. When is the best time?

Response: The best time to plant cassava is at the start of the rainy season. This gives your plants the best chance to establish well. Also, make sure to space them 1 metre by 1 metre for good yield and easy weeding. This week, prepare your land and get your planting stems ready.


Instruction: My cassava farm has small tubers. What is the problem?

Response: Small tubers can happen if your plants have mosaic disease. Check for yellow and green patches or curly leaves. If you see these, remove the plants immediately. Also, make sure you are using disease-free planting stems. Another thing, mound the soil before planting next time to improve drainage and tuber size.


Instruction: How I go treat cassava mosaic?

Response: First, remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Do not replant stems from a farm that had mosaic. Use disease-free stems next time. Also, control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. This week, inspect your farm and remove any infected plants you find.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don spoil. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: If your cassava leaves have yellow and green patches or are curling, it is likely mosaic disease. This is caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. The thing is, you must remove those infected plants right away. Also, make sure your planting stems are from healthy plants only.


Instruction: What is the best spacing for cassava?

Response: The best spacing for cassava is 1 metre by 1 metre. This gives your plants enough room to grow well and makes weeding easier. Also, it helps you get a good yield. This week, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How I go prevent cassava mosaic?

Response: To prevent cassava mosaic, use disease-free planting stems from healthy plants. Remove and destroy any infected plants immediately. Control whiteflies with neem-based sprays or yellow sticky traps. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572. This week, inspect your farm and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: My cassava plants have small leaves. Is this normal?

Response: Small leaves can be a sign of cassava mosaic disease. Check for yellow and green patches or curling. If you see these, remove the plants immediately. Also, make sure you are using disease-free planting stems. This week, inspect your farm and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: What is the best time to harvest cassava?

Response: You can harvest cassava between 9 to 18 months, depending on the variety and what you want to use it for. This week, check your plants and see if they are ready for harvest.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange spots with white centres and brown edges. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like rice blast disease. The fungus loves wet conditions and too much nitrogen. First thing first, check your fertilizer use. Do not over-apply nitrogen. You can also plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series next season.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis brown spots for my rice leaves?

Response: Those brown spots with white centres are signs of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks when nights are cool and humidity is high. Burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. This will help reduce the disease next season.


Instruction: I notice some of my rice stalks are falling over before harvest. What could be the problem?

Response: This is neck blast, a very damaging form of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk. To prevent this, spray fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Timing is everything, my friend.


Instruction: My rice plants have diamond-shaped lesions on the leaves. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, those diamond-shaped lesions with grey or white centres and brown edges are signs of rice blast disease. The fungus thrives in cool nights and high humidity. For next season, consider planting blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57.


Instruction: What is causing my rice plants to have spindle-shaped spots on the leaves?

Response: Those spindle-shaped spots with white centres and brown edges are symptoms of rice blast disease. The fungus loves wet conditions and too much nitrogen. Do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. Use balanced NPK fertilizer instead.


Instruction: My rice field has both leaf spots and some stalks falling over. What is happening?

Response: This is rice blast disease, my friend. The leaf spots are the first sign, and if not controlled, the fungus can attack the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. This is called neck blast. Burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores.