Instruction: How I go prevent blight for my tomato?

Response: My friend, first thing first — keep your tomato leaves dry. Water only at the base, never from above. Also, plant on raised beds to help water drain away. During rainy season, spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves with spots.


Instruction: My tomato don spoil with brown spots, wetin dey cause am?

Response: That sounds like blight, my friend. Early blight causes brown spots with rings, while late blight makes plants rot quickly in wet weather. Check your lower leaves first. This week, remove and burn any infected leaves to stop it spreading.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to stop blight in my tomato farm?

Response: The cheapest way is to keep your plants healthy and dry. Plant on ridges, space them well for airflow, and water only at the base. Also, rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season. This week, check your plants and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: How can I save my tomato plants from blight without spending much?

Response: You can save your plants by keeping them dry and healthy. Remove any leaves with spots and burn them — don't compost. Plant on raised beds and avoid watering from above. This week, check your plants and start removing bad leaves.


Instruction: My tomato leaves get wet spots that turn brown, how I go treat am?

Response: That sounds like blight, my friend. Remove and burn any infected leaves right away. Spray copper fungicide or mancozeb every week in rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds and water only at the base. This week, start removing bad leaves.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent blight in my tomato farm on low budget?

Response: Prevent blight by keeping your plants dry and healthy. Plant on ridges, space them well, and water only at the base. Rotate your tomato plot next season. This week, check your plants and remove any leaves with spots.


Instruction: How I go stop blight from killing my tomato plants?

Response: Stop blight by keeping your plants dry and healthy. Remove and burn any infected leaves right away. Spray copper fungicide or mancozeb every week in rainy season. This week, check your plants and start removing bad leaves.


Instruction: My tomato leaves get brown spots, wetin I go do?

Response: That sounds like blight, my friend. Remove and burn any infected leaves right away. Spray copper fungicide or mancozeb every week in rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds and water only at the base. This week, start removing bad leaves.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage blight in tomato farming with little money?

Response: The best way is to keep your plants healthy and dry. Remove and burn any infected leaves. Plant on ridges, space them well, and water only at the base. This week, check your plants and start removing bad leaves.


Instruction: How can I protect my tomato plants from blight without spending much?

Response: Protect your plants by keeping them dry and healthy. Remove and burn any infected leaves. Plant on ridges, space them well, and water only at the base. This week, check your plants and start removing bad leaves.


Instruction: My rice leaves have strange diamond shapes with brown edges and white centres. What is this?

Response: My friend, this is rice blast disease. It is caused by a fungus and can destroy your crop if not controlled. First thing first, check your fertilizer use — too much nitrogen feeds the fungus. Spray a fungicide like tricyclazole at the first sign of these spots.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis small brown spots for my rice leaves wey dey turn to big diamond shape?

Response: Ah, this is rice blast disease. The fungus loves cool nights and too much water. To stop it, keep your field properly flooded and do not overcrowd your seedlings when transplanting. Burn the straw after harvest to kill the fungus spores.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over before harvest. The base of the stalk looks damaged. What is happening?

Response: This is neck blast, the worst form of rice blast disease. It attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk. To prevent this, spray a fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series next season.


Instruction: I see brown lesions on my rice leaves with grey centres. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, this is rice blast disease. It thrives in cool, humid conditions. Do not over-apply nitrogen fertilizer — it makes the disease worse. Spray a fungicide like isoprothiolane at the first sign of these lesions.


Instruction: What causes the diamond-shaped spots on my rice leaves?

Response: Those are signs of rice blast disease. The fungus loves high humidity and too much nitrogen. To control it, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Spray a fungicide like propiconazole if you see these spots.


Instruction: My rice plants have spindle-shaped lesions on the leaves. What is this and how do I treat it?

Response: This is rice blast disease. It is caused by a fungus and can be very destructive. To treat it, spray a fungicide like tricyclazole at the first sign of these lesions. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 57 next season.


Instruction: Why are my rice plants falling over just before harvest?

Response: This is neck blast, a severe form of rice blast disease. It attacks the base of the stalk. To prevent this, spray a fungicide at the boot stage. Also, burn the rice straw after harvest to destroy the fungal spores.


Instruction: What is the most destructive rice disease in the world and how do I identify it?

Response: Rice blast is the most destructive rice disease. You can identify it by diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions on the leaves with grey or white centres and brown or reddish edges. To control it, maintain proper water levels and use balanced NPK fertilizer.


Instruction: My rice leaves have brown edges with white centres. Is this a pest or disease?

Response: This is rice blast disease, caused by a fungus. It thrives in cool nights and high humidity. To control it, spray a fungicide like isoprothiolane at the first sign of these lesions. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties next season.


Instruction: Wetin cause my rice plants to fall over with damaged stalks?

Response: This is neck blast, a severe form of rice blast disease. It attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk. To prevent this, spray a fungicide at the boot stage. Also, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field to reduce disease pressure.


Instruction: Identify rice blast disease

Response: My friend, if you see diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions with grey or white centres and brown or reddish edges on your rice leaves, that is rice blast disease. It is very dangerous and can destroy your crop if not treated early.


Instruction: Explain the most damaging form of rice blast

Response: The most damaging form is neck blast. It attacks the base of the grain-bearing stalk, causing it to fall over. This can reduce your grain yield by 70 to 80 percent in severe cases. First thing first, check your rice stalks now.


Instruction: Ask in pidgin: my rice don spoil, wetin dey cause this?

Response: My friend, if your rice leaves have diamond-shaped spots with grey centres and brown edges, that is rice blast disease. It is caused by a fungus and thrives in cool nights and high humidity. You must act fast to save your crop.


Instruction: Ask in pidgin: how I go treat rice blast?

Response: To treat rice blast, spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane, or propiconazole fungicide at the first sign of leaf lesions. Follow the label instructions carefully. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties like FARO 52, FARO 57, or NERICA series. Check your rice field today and start treatment if you see any signs.


Instruction: Explain how to prevent rice blast

Response: To prevent rice blast, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field and do not let it dry out and flood alternately. Do not overcrowd seedlings during transplanting and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Never over-apply nitrogen fertilizer as it feeds the fungus directly. Check your fertilizer application this week.


Instruction: Ask: What should I do if I see neck blast in my rice field?

Response: If you see neck blast, it is already too late to save those stalks. But you can still save the rest of your crop. Spray a fungicide immediately and remove the infected stalks to prevent the spread. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties next season. Check your rice field now and take action.


Instruction: Ask: How can I reduce the risk of rice blast in my farm?

Response: To reduce the risk of rice blast, maintain proper water levels and avoid overcrowding seedlings. Use balanced NPK fertilizer and never over-apply nitrogen. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Check your farming practices this week and make any necessary changes.


Instruction: Ask: What are the best rice varieties to plant to avoid blast disease?

Response: The best rice varieties to plant to avoid blast disease are FARO 52, FARO 57, and the NERICA series. These varieties are blast-resistant and can help you avoid the disease. Check your seed options this week and choose the best variety for your farm.


Instruction: Ask: How do I know if my rice has blast disease?

Response: You will know your rice has blast disease if you see diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions with grey or white centres and brown or reddish edges on the leaves. Neck blast will cause the grain-bearing stalks to fall over. Check your rice field now and look for these signs.


Instruction: Ask: What is the most destructive rice disease in the world?

Response: The most destructive rice disease in the world is rice blast. It is caused by a fungus and can reduce grain yield by 70 to 80 percent in severe epidemic years. Check your rice field today and look for any signs of the disease.


Instruction: My friend, I see my plantain leaves are stiff and crowded at the top. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like bunchy top virus. The thing is, there is no cure. First thing first, chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Do not waste money on treatment.


Instruction: I no dey get am again! My plantain leaves get dark green streaks and now dey turn brown. How I go treat am?

Response: Ah, this is bunchy top virus. No need to panic, but you must act fast. Chop down the infected plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This will stop the virus from spreading. Always plant only certified clean suckers next time.


Instruction: Should I move suckers from my old plantain farm to my new farm?

Response: No, my friend, do not do that! If your old farm had bunchy top, the virus can hide inside the suckers with no visible signs. Always plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Start fresh with disease-free materials.


Instruction: I see dark green dots on my plantain leaves. What is this and what should I do?

Response: Those dark green dots are a sign of bunchy top virus. The plant will not produce a bunch and there is no cure. Chop it down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. Do not move any suckers from this farm.


Instruction: Is it okay to plant plantain suckers at the end of the dry season?

Response: No, my friend, do not plant at the end of the dry season. Plant at the start of the rainy season for best establishment. This way, the plants get enough water to grow strong. Start preparing your land now if you plan to plant soon.


Instruction: Can I keep many suckers around my plantain plant?

Response: No, do not keep too many suckers. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. Too many suckers will compete for nutrients and weaken the plant. Remove extra suckers this week to keep your plants healthy.


Instruction: Should I use any fertilizer on my plantain farm?

Response: Yes, plantain is a heavy feeder, especially on potassium. Apply potassium-rich fertilizer. Do not skip this step. Check your local agro shop for suitable fertilizers and follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see aphids on my plantain leaves. Should I spray them?

Response: Aphids spread bunchy top virus. Do not wait, act now. Chop down any infected plants and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Always plant certified clean suckers to avoid this problem. Check your farm today for any signs of disease.


Instruction: Is it okay to plant my plantain suckers close together?

Response: No, do not plant them close. Space them at 3 metres by 3 metres. This allows airflow between plants and makes harvesting easier. Start planning your spacing now if you are preparing to plant.


Instruction: I see yellow streaks on my plantain leaves. What is this and what should I do?

Response: Those yellow streaks are a sign of bunchy top virus. There is no cure, so chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Do not move any suckers from this farm. Always plant certified clean suckers next time.


Instruction: My friend, I see dark spots on my mango leaves. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like mango anthracnose, a fungal disease. The dark spots mean the fungus is already attacking your tree. First thing first, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. This will stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: How I go know when my mangoes ready for harvest?

Response: When the tip of the mango starts to change colour, that is your sign. For most varieties, that is when they are ready. But remember, handle them with care when you pick them — any bruises will let disease in.


Instruction: What can I do to stop mango anthracnose from spreading?

Response: Prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation. Also, remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. They carry fungal spores that can infect your tree. And avoid overhead irrigation — it keeps the leaves wet for too long, which the fungus loves.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mangoes after harvest. What is this?

Response: This is mango anthracnose, a fungal disease. The black spots were already there but you couldn't see them. The fungus grows fast when the fruit ripens. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruits can form. What is happening?

Response: This is blossom blight, caused by the same fungus that causes anthracnose. It kills the flowers before fruit can set. To stop this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop mango anthracnose from ruining my harvest?

Response: Handle your mangoes with care when you harvest them. Any bruises or wounds will let the fungus in. Pick them carefully, do not drop them, and store them in a cool dry place immediately. This will slow down the fungus.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause mango leaves get dark spots?

Response: The dark spots on your mango leaves are caused by a fungus called mango anthracnose. It loves high humidity and frequent rain. To stop it, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation and remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground.


Instruction: What should I do if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: First, remove all infected leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. Then, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I prevent mango anthracnose in my orchard?

Response: Prune your mango trees after every harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. Also, remove fallen leaves and fruits from the ground regularly. They carry fungal spores. Avoid overhead irrigation which keeps foliage wet for too long.


Instruction: I see black spots on my mangoes after 2 days of harvest. What is this?

Response: This is mango anthracnose, a fungal disease. The black spots were already there but you couldn't see them. The fungus grows fast when the fruit ripens. To prevent this, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from spreading to my whole farm?

Response: My friend, first thing first, don't panic. The thing is, cowpea aphids spread quickly. You must act fast. Remove and destroy any heavily infested plant parts right away. This will stop the aphids from moving to healthy plants. Also, check your farm every day. If you see small black or brown insects clustering, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This will help control the aphids before they spread further.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent cowpea aphids from attacking my plants?

Response: To prevent cowpea aphids, plant your cowpea early in the season. This helps you escape the peak aphid populations that come in the dry season. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. This will help keep your farm safe from aphids.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause cowpea leaf curl and how I go stop am?

Response: Cowpea leaf curl is often caused by aphids. These small black or brown insects suck sap from the plant, causing the leaves to curl and turn yellow. To stop them, remove and destroy heavily infested parts of the plant. Then, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This will help control the aphids and stop the spread of the disease.


Instruction: How do I know if my cowpea plants have aphids?

Response: Aphids are small, shiny black or dark brown insects that cluster on young shoots, flowers, and pods. They cause stunted growth, leaf curl, yellowing, and wilting. You might also see a sticky substance called honeydew on the leaves. This honeydew encourages black sooty mould to grow, blocking sunlight. If you see these signs, act fast to control the aphids.


Instruction: Can cowpea aphids spread diseases to my plants?

Response: Yes, cowpea aphids can spread more than 30 plant viruses. Even a small infestation is a big threat because it can quickly spread diseases to your plants. To protect your plants, remove and destroy heavily infested parts and spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This will help control the aphids and prevent the spread of diseases.


Instruction: What is the best way to control cowpea aphids naturally?

Response: The best natural way to control cowpea aphids is to use neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. These sprays are effective and safe for your plants. Also, protect natural enemies like ladybird beetles, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps. They feed on aphids and help control the infestation. Intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from spreading to my neighbor's farm?

Response: To stop cowpea aphids from spreading to your neighbor's farm, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts immediately. This will prevent the aphids from moving to other farms. Also, avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. This will help keep both your farm and your neighbor's farm safe from aphids.


Instruction: What should I do if I see black sooty mould on my cowpea leaves?

Response: Black sooty mould on cowpea leaves is caused by the sticky honeydew that aphids produce. To control the aphids, remove and destroy heavily infested parts of the plant. Then, spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. This will help control the aphids and prevent the honeydew from encouraging the growth of black sooty mould.


Instruction: How can I prevent cowpea aphids from attacking my plants next season?

Response: To prevent cowpea aphids next season, plant your cowpea early. This helps you escape the peak aphid populations that come in the dry season. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure. Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. This will help keep your farm safe from aphids.


Instruction: What is the best chemical to use for cowpea aphids?

Response: As a last resort, you can use imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray to control cowpea aphids. Follow the label instructions carefully. But first, try natural methods like neem oil spray mixed with soap or garlic spray. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread of aphids.


Instruction: My friend, my cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is this?

Response: This is black pod disease, my friend. It's caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, pick all the infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Don't leave them on the ground. I tell you, this disease can destroy your harvest if you don't act fast.


Instruction: I see brown spots on my cocoa pods. Is this black pod disease?

Response: Yes, those brown spots can turn into black pod disease if you don't act quickly. The thing is, this disease spreads like fire in wet conditions. Pick the infected pods now and bury them deep or burn them. Don't wait, my friend.


Instruction: My cocoa farm has black pod disease. How do I stop it from spreading?

Response: You must act fast, my friend. Remove all infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help slow down the disease. Do this today, no need to panic but act now.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause black pod for my cocoa farm?

Response: Black pod disease is caused by a fungus that loves wet and humid conditions. It spreads very fast, especially in shaded areas. The thing is, one infected pod can infect ten others. So, you must remove and bury or burn the infected pods immediately. Don't leave them on the ground.


Instruction: I have black pod disease in my cocoa farm. What should I do immediately?

Response: First thing first, pick all the infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Then, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help reduce the humidity and slow down the disease. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning black. How do I treat this?

Response: This is black pod disease, and you must act fast. Remove all infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I see black spots on my cocoa pods. Is this serious?

Response: Yes, it is serious, my friend. This is black pod disease, and it can destroy your harvest if you don't act quickly. Remove all infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. Do this today.


Instruction: My cocoa farm has black pod disease. How can I prevent it from coming back?

Response: First, remove all infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Then, prune your trees regularly to let more light and air in. This will help reduce the humidity and slow down the disease. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: I have black pod disease in my cocoa farm. What can I do to stop it?

Response: You must act fast, my friend. Remove all infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to let more light and air in. This will help reduce the humidity and slow down the disease. Do this today.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is the best way to treat this?

Response: This is black pod disease, and you must act quickly. Remove all infected pods and bury them deep or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Follow the label instructions carefully. Do this today, my friend.


Instruction: What is rice blast disease?

Response: Rice blast is a very dangerous disease caused by a fungus. It makes diamond-shaped spots on leaves and can even break the neck of your rice plant, making it fall over. This is very bad for your harvest.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice has blast disease?

Response: Look for small, diamond-shaped spots on your leaves with a grey center and brown edges. If you see these, check the base of your plants too. If the stems are breaking, that's neck blast, and it's very serious.


Instruction: My rice leaves don spoil with small spots, wetin dey cause this?

Response: That sounds like rice blast disease, my friend. It's caused by a fungus that loves cool nights and wet conditions. The thing is, too much nitrogen fertilizer makes it worse, so don't over-apply it.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast on my farm?

Response: First thing first, keep your water levels steady in the paddy field. Don't let it dry out and flood again. Also, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. And always use the right amount of nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: Is it true that too much fertilizer causes rice blast?

Response: Yes, my friend, too much nitrogen fertilizer feeds the fungus that causes rice blast. Always use a balanced NPK fertilizer and follow the label instructions carefully. Too much is worse than not enough.


Instruction: What should I do if I see blast spots on my rice leaves?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Spray tricyclazole, isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide right away. Follow the label instructions carefully. And this week, check your water levels and plant spacing to prevent more spread.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from coming back next season?

Response: Burn your rice straw after harvest to destroy the fungus. Also, plant blast-resistant varieties and keep your water levels steady. These steps will help a lot, I tell you.


Instruction: What is the best way to space my rice plants to prevent disease?

Response: Don't overcrowd your seedlings when transplanting. Proper spacing reduces disease pressure. Give your plants room to grow strong and healthy. This week, check your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: How do I know if my cassava has mosaic disease?

Response: My friend, check your leaves. If you see yellow and green patches like a mosaic, with curling and twisted leaves, that's mosaic disease. The thing is, this virus spreads fast through whiteflies. First thing first, remove and burn any infected plants right away to stop it spreading.


Instruction: What is the difference between healthy cassava and cassava with mosaic?

Response: Healthy cassava leaves are green and flat, while mosaic-infected leaves have yellow-green patches, curl up, and look twisted. The big difference is that infected plants give small, deformed tubers that no one will buy. To prevent this, always plant disease-free stems from healthy plants.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don get mosaic. How I go stop am from spread?

Response: No need to panic, but act fast. Remove and burn the infected plants immediately so whiteflies don't spread the virus. Then, spray neem-based solution on the remaining plants to control whiteflies. Also, plant resistant varieties like TME 419 or IITA TMS 30572 next time.


Instruction: How does cassava mosaic disease spread compared to other diseases?

Response: Cassava mosaic spreads through whiteflies and also through infected stems. This is why you must use disease-free stems for planting. Other diseases might spread through soil or rain, but mosaic jumps from plant to plant through these whiteflies. So, control the whiteflies and use resistant varieties.


Instruction: What's better for preventing mosaic: resistant varieties or spraying?

Response: Resistant varieties are the best long-term solution because they won't get sick even if whiteflies are around. Spraying neem helps control whiteflies but must be done regularly. The best is to combine both: plant resistant varieties and spray neem to protect your farm.


Instruction: How does planting time affect cassava mosaic?

Response: Planting at the start of the rainy season helps your cassava grow strong before whiteflies become a big problem. Strong plants can better resist diseases. So, plant early in the rains and choose resistant varieties for the best protection.


Instruction: My neighbour's cassava has mosaic. How I go protect my farm?

Response: First, don't take stems from your neighbour's farm for planting. The virus travels with the stem. Also, set up yellow sticky traps around your farm to catch whiteflies. Spray neem solution regularly to control them. Plant resistant varieties like TME 419 for extra protection.


Instruction: What's the difference between mosaic and other leaf diseases?

Response: Mosaic makes leaves look like a mosaic with yellow and green patches, plus curling. Other leaf diseases might cause spots or holes but not the patchy colour. The big difference is mosaic spreads through whiteflies and infected stems, so use disease-free stems and control whiteflies.


Instruction: How does spacing help prevent cassava mosaic?

Response: Good spacing, like 1 metre by 1 metre, helps air circulate and makes it easier to spot and remove infected plants early. It also helps with weeding and applying sprays. So, space your plants well and remove any infected ones immediately to stop the spread.


Instruction: My cassava leaves don curl like dis before. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: That curling is likely cassava mosaic disease. It's caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. First, remove and burn the affected plants right away. Then, spray neem solution to control whiteflies. Next time, plant resistant varieties like IITA TMS 30572 to avoid this problem.


Instruction: How do I recognize rice blast disease in my field?

Response: My friend, rice blast shows up as diamond or spindle-shaped spots on leaves with grey centers and brown edges. The worst kind attacks the stem near the grain, making the plant fall over. If you see these signs, act fast.


Instruction: What causes rice blast disease?

Response: Rice blast is caused by a fungus that loves cool nights, high humidity, and too much nitrogen fertilizer. The thing is, too much nitrogen is like feeding the fungus directly. Keep your nitrogen balanced.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast in my paddy?

Response: First thing first, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA. Keep your field flooded evenly, don't let it dry out and flood again. Also, space your seedlings properly during transplanting. And never over-apply nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: My rice plants are falling over — wetin dey cause this?

Response: That sounds like neck blast, a serious type of rice blast disease. The fungus attacks the stem near the grain, making the plant fall over. You must act fast to save your crop.


Instruction: What should I do if I see strange spots on my rice leaves?

Response: Those spots could be rice blast. Spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away, following the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer use — too much feeds the fungus.


Instruction: How do I treat neck blast in my rice field?

Response: For neck blast, timing is everything. Spray isoprothiolane or propiconazole fungicide at the boot stage, before the panicle emerges. Also, plant resistant varieties next season to avoid this problem.


Instruction: Why is my rice yield so low this year?

Response: If you see diamond-shaped spots on leaves or falling plants, it could be rice blast. This disease can cut your yield by up to 80 percent. Check your field for signs and treat immediately if you see any.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from coming back next season?

Response: Burn the rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. Also, plant resistant varieties like FARO 57 or NERICA. And remember, balanced fertilizer is key — don't over-apply nitrogen.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage water in my rice paddy to prevent disease?

Response: Keep your field flooded evenly — don't let it dry out and flood again. Alternate wetting and drying helps spread the fungus. Maintain steady water levels to keep your rice healthy.


Instruction: My rice plants have strange spots — how I go treat am?

Response: Those spots could be rice blast. Spray tricyclazole or isoprothiolane fungicide now, following the label instructions carefully. Also, check your nitrogen use — too much makes the problem worse. Act fast to save your crop.


Instruction: My cassava leaves have yellow and green patches and are curling up. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like cassava mosaic disease. This virus makes leaves look patchy and curl up. The worst thing is it makes the tubers small and useless. First thing first, check nearby farms for similar problems. If you see it, pull out and burn those plants now before whiteflies spread it further. Also, plant disease-free stems next time.


Instruction: What causes the yellow and green patterns on my cassava leaves?

Response: Those patterns are a sign of cassava mosaic disease. Whiteflies spread this virus from plant to plant. The thing is, once it starts, it spreads fast. Check your farm now and remove any plants with these signs. Do not wait until harvest to act.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curled and have strange colors. How did this happen?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. Those flies love weak plants. To stop it, remove and burn any plants with these signs immediately. Then, plant only disease-free stems next season. Also, use yellow sticky traps to catch whiteflies.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis mosaic pattern for my cassava leaves?

Response: Na cassava mosaic disease cause am. Viruses wey whiteflies carry dey cause dis problem. If you no act fast, your whole farm go spoil. First thing first, remove and burn any plant wey get dis sign. Then, use neem spray to control whiteflies. Next time, plant disease-free stems.


Instruction: What makes my cassava leaves look patchy and curled?

Response: That is cassava mosaic disease, my friend. A virus from whiteflies is causing this. The bad news is it makes tubers small and worthless. The good news is you can stop it. Remove and burn any plants with these signs right now. Also, plant disease-resistant varieties next time.


Instruction: Why do my cassava leaves have yellow and green patches and are curling?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. It makes leaves look patchy and curl up. The worst part is it makes the tubers small and useless. First thing first, check your farm now and remove any plants with these signs. Burn them to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curling and have strange colors. What is the problem?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease, my friend. A virus spread by whiteflies is causing this. The bad news is it makes tubers small and worthless. The good news is you can stop it. Remove and burn any plants with these signs right now. Also, plant disease-free stems next time.


Instruction: What is causing the yellow and green patterns on my cassava leaves?

Response: Those patterns are a sign of cassava mosaic disease. Whiteflies spread this virus from plant to plant. The thing is, once it starts, it spreads fast. Check your farm now and remove any plants with these signs. Burn them to stop the virus from spreading.


Instruction: My cassava leaves are curled and have strange colors. How did this happen?

Response: This is cassava mosaic disease, caused by a virus spread by whiteflies. Those flies love weak plants. To stop it, remove and burn any plants with these signs immediately. Then, plant only disease-free stems next season. Also, use yellow sticky traps to catch whiteflies.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis mosaic pattern for my cassava leaves?

Response: Na cassava mosaic disease cause am. Viruses wey whiteflies carry dey cause dis problem. If you no act fast, your whole farm go spoil. First thing first, remove and burn any plant wey get dis sign. Then, use neem spray to control whiteflies. Next time, plant disease-free stems.


Instruction: When should I start staking my tomato plants?

Response: My friend, stake your tomato plants when they reach about 30 cm tall. This keeps the fruits and leaves off the ground, helping to prevent disease. Check your plants this week and stake if they're tall enough.


Instruction: How often should I harvest my tomatoes?

Response: Harvest your tomatoes every 2 to 3 days, my friend. Don't wait too long or the ripe fruits will attract pests and disease. Start checking your plants regularly this week.


Instruction: When is the best time to apply fertilizer to my tomato plants?

Response: First thing first, apply balanced NPK fertilizer at planting time. Then, when your plants start flowering, top-dress with calcium nitrate. Check your plants this week and apply if needed.


Instruction: My tomato leaves don spoil, how I go treat am?

Response: If you see dark brown spots with rings or water-soaked patches, it could be blight. Remove and burn the infected leaves right away. Spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every 7 days during rainy season. Check your plants today and act fast.


Instruction: How often should I spray fungicide to prevent blight?

Response: Spray fungicide every 7 days during the rainy season to prevent blight. Use mancozeb, chlorothalonil, or copper-based fungicide. Follow the label instructions carefully. Check your spray schedule this week.


Instruction: When should I rotate my tomato crop with another crop?

Response: Never plant tomato in the same plot two seasons in a row. Rotate with maize or cowpea. Plan your crop rotation this week to keep your soil healthy.


Instruction: How soon should I remove infected leaves from my tomato plants?

Response: Remove and destroy infected leaves at the first sign of blight. Bag them and burn, don't compost. Check your plants today and remove any infected leaves immediately.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause dis wetin I dey see for my tomato leaves?

Response: If you see dark brown spots with rings or water-soaked patches, it's likely blight. This disease spreads fast in wet, cool, and humid conditions. Remove and burn infected leaves right away and spray with fungicide.


Instruction: When is the best time to water my tomato plants?

Response: Water your tomato plants at the base, not overhead. Do this early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Avoid wetting the foliage to keep leaves dry. Check your watering schedule this week.


Instruction: How often should I check my tomato plants for blight?

Response: Check your tomato plants every day during the rainy season for signs of blight. Early detection is key to saving your crop. Make it a habit to inspect your plants daily this week.


Instruction: How is mango anthracnose different from other mango diseases?

Response: My friend, mango anthracnose is different because it attacks leaves, flowers, and fruits all at once. On fruits, it causes dark sunken spots that turn black very fast after harvest. The thing is, the fungus was already inside even if you didn't see it. First thing first, prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: What makes mango anthracnose worse than other mango problems?

Response: Ah, anthracnose is tricky because it hides inside the fruit. You might pick a mango that looks fine, but within 2 days it turns black. This is why you must handle fruits carefully when harvesting. Bruises let the fungus in, so be gentle with your mangoes.


Instruction: How can I tell if my mango tree has anthracnose or just normal leaf spots?

Response: Normal leaf spots are usually small and don't spread much. Anthracnose spots are dark brown, irregular, and can grow bigger. On flowers, it causes blossom blight, killing them before fruit sets. Check your tree now and remove any leaves with these big spots.


Instruction: Na wetin dey make mango anthracnose different from other mango diseases?

Response: Mango anthracnose different because e dey attack leaves, flowers, and fruits all at once. On fruits, e cause dark spots wey dey turn black very fast after harvest. The fungus don dey inside even if you no see am. Make you prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation.


Instruction: Why does anthracnose cause more damage than other mango diseases?

Response: Anthracnose is sneaky because it infects fruits while they're still on the tree. You might pick a mango that looks good, but it turns black in 2 days. The fungus was already inside. Handle fruits carefully when harvesting to avoid bruises.


Instruction: How does mango anthracnose compare to powdery mildew on mango leaves?

Response: Powdery mildew looks like white powder on leaves, while anthracnose causes dark brown spots. Anthracnose is worse because it can kill flowers and spoil fruits quickly. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage to prevent it.


Instruction: What is the main difference between mango anthracnose and fruit fly damage?

Response: Fruit fly damage shows as small holes and maggots inside the fruit. Anthracnose causes dark sunken spots that turn black after harvest. No need to panic, but check your tree now and remove any infected leaves or fruits.


Instruction: How can I stop anthracnose from ruining my mango harvest compared to other diseases?

Response: Anthracnose is worse because it hides inside the fruit. To stop it, spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage and repeat every 10 days during rains. Handle fruits carefully when harvesting to avoid bruises.


Instruction: Na wetin dey make mango anthracnose worse pass other mango diseases?

Response: Anthracnose worse because e dey hide inside the fruit. You fit pick mango wey look fine, but e go turn black for 2 days. The fungus don dey inside. Make you spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage to prevent am.


Instruction: Why does anthracnose cause more problems than other mango tree diseases?

Response: Anthracnose is tricky because it attacks leaves, flowers, and fruits. It causes dark spots on fruits that turn black after harvest. The fungus was already inside. Prune your tree after harvest to improve air circulation and reduce the risk.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are turning brown and have rings. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this sounds like early blight. The dark brown spots with rings mean the disease has started. First thing first, remove those leaves immediately and burn them. Do not compost them. Then spray with mancozeb or copper-based fungicide every week during this rainy season. Also, stop watering from above to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: My tomato plants are wilting fast and leaves turning brown. What is this?

Response: This could be late blight. It spreads very fast in wet weather. Remove and burn all infected parts right now. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every 7 days. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage.


Instruction: I see grey patches on my tomato leaves. Is this serious?

Response: Yes, this is serious. It could be late blight. The grey patches turn brown quickly and destroy plants. Remove and burn infected leaves now. Spray with fungicide every week during rainy season. Also, rotate your tomato plot with maize or cowpea next season.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are getting spots. How I go treat am?

Response: The spots could be early blight. First, cut off the infected leaves and burn them. Do not compost. Then spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during the rains. Also, water at the base of the plants to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: I just saw brown spots on my tomato plants. What should I do right now?

Response: Remove the infected leaves immediately and burn them. Do not compost. Spray with a copper-based fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, make sure to water at the base of the plants to keep the leaves dry.


Instruction: My tomato plants are dying fast. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: It could be late blight. The grey-green patches turn brown quickly and kill plants in wet weather. Remove and burn infected parts now. Spray with chlorothalonil or copper fungicide every 7 days. Also, plant on raised beds next time.


Instruction: I see rings on my tomato leaves. Is this blight?

Response: Yes, those rings mean early blight. Remove and burn the infected leaves right away. Do not compost them. Spray with mancozeb or copper fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, avoid watering from above.


Instruction: My tomato leaves are turning brown and falling off. What do I do?

Response: This could be early blight. Cut off the infected leaves and burn them. Do not compost. Spray with a copper-based fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, water at the base of the plants to keep leaves dry.


Instruction: I just noticed brown spots on my tomato plants. What is the best action now?

Response: Remove the infected leaves immediately and burn them. Do not compost. Spray with mancozeb or chlorothalonil every week during the rainy season. Also, make sure to water at the base of the plants to keep the leaves dry.


Instruction: My tomato plants are getting spots and wilting. How I go prevent dis?

Response: First, remove and burn the infected leaves. Do not compost. Spray with copper fungicide every week during the rainy season. Also, plant on raised beds next time to improve drainage and reduce soil splash onto lower leaves.


Instruction: How can I stop cowpea aphids from destroying my crop now?

Response: My friend, cowpea aphids are serious business. First thing first, check your plants for those shiny black or brown bugs on young shoots and pods. They suck sap and spread disease. Mix neem oil with soap and spray it on the plants. Also, plant early to avoid peak aphid season. This week, inspect your farm and treat any infested plants immediately.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are turning yellow and curling up, what do I do?

Response: That sounds like aphids. They suck the life out of your plants and spread viruses. Check the undersides of leaves and young shoots for those tiny black bugs. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray to control them. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread. Do this today before it gets worse.


Instruction: I see small black bugs all over my cowpea flowers, what is happening?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They cluster on flowers and pods, sucking sap and causing damage. They also leave sticky honeydew that leads to black mould. Spray neem oil with soap or use a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Check your farm now and start treatment immediately.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my cowpea from aphids right now?

Response: Aphids are a big threat, but you can fight them. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray on your plants. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Inspect your farm today and treat any infested plants right away.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting and have sticky leaves, wetin dey cause this?

Response: That sticky stuff is honeydew from cowpea aphids. They suck sap and leave behind this sticky mess that causes black mould. Spray neem oil with soap or garlic spray to control the aphids. Remove heavily infested parts and treat the rest of your farm this week.


Instruction: How can I save my cowpea crop from aphids quickly?

Response: Aphids are dangerous, but you can act fast. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray on your plants. Also, plant early to avoid peak aphid season. Check your farm now and start treatment immediately to save your crop.


Instruction: I see black mould on my cowpea leaves, what should I do?

Response: That black mould is caused by the sticky honeydew from cowpea aphids. Spray neem oil with soap or garlic spray to control the aphids. Remove heavily infested parts and treat the rest of your farm this week to stop the spread.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are stunted and have curly leaves, what do I do?

Response: That sounds like aphids. They suck sap and cause stunted growth and leaf curl. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray on your plants. Remove and destroy heavily infested parts to stop the spread. Inspect your farm today and treat any infested plants immediately.


Instruction: How can I stop aphids from spreading to my cowpea farm?

Response: Aphids spread quickly, but you can stop them. Remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts before they spread to the whole farm. Spray neem oil with soap or garlic spray on the remaining plants. Check your farm now and take action immediately.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are covered in tiny black bugs, help me!

Response: Those are cowpea aphids, and they are dangerous. Spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray on your plants. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio to reduce aphid pressure. Inspect your farm today and start treatment immediately to save your crop.


Instruction: What are those tiny black bugs on my cowpea leaves?

Response: My friend, those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap from your plants causing yellowing and stunted growth. First thing first, check the whole farm and remove any heavily infested parts right away to stop them spreading.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves are curling and turning yellow. What is the problem?

Response: That sounds like aphid damage, my friend. These tiny black or brown bugs suck plant sap and spread viruses. Look closely at the undersides of leaves and stems for clusters of them.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaf turn yellow and sticky?

Response: That sticky mess is honeydew from cowpea aphids. These pests suck plant sap and leave behind this sticky substance which encourages black mould. Check your plants for small black or brown bugs and take action today.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea flowers. Are they harmful?

Response: Yes, those are cowpea aphids. They damage plants by sucking sap and spreading viruses. Even a small number can cause big problems. Look for clusters on young shoots, flowers and pods.


Instruction: What are the shiny black insects on my cowpea plants?

Response: Those shiny black insects are cowpea aphids. They cause leaf curl, yellowing and stunted growth. Check your entire farm and remove any heavily infested parts immediately to prevent further damage.


Instruction: My cowpea plants are wilting and have black mould on leaves. What is happening?

Response: That black mould is caused by honeydew from cowpea aphids. These pests suck plant sap and leave behind sticky residue that encourages mould growth. Look for small black or brown bugs on your plants and act quickly.


Instruction: Are the tiny brown bugs on my cowpea pods harmful?

Response: Yes, those are cowpea aphids. They damage plants by sucking sap and spreading viruses. Even a small infestation can cause big problems. Check your plants carefully and remove any heavily infested parts right away.


Instruction: Why are my cowpea leaves curling and have black spots?

Response: That could be cowpea aphids. These tiny black or brown bugs suck plant sap causing curling and yellowing. The black spots are sooty mould growing on the sticky honeydew they leave behind. Inspect your plants and take action if you find aphids.


Instruction: I see small black insects on my cowpea stems. Should I worry?

Response: Yes, those are cowpea aphids. They damage plants by sucking sap and spreading viruses. Even a small number can cause big problems. Look for clusters on young shoots, flowers and pods and take action today.


Instruction: What are those tiny black bugs doing on my cowpea flowers?

Response: Those are cowpea aphids. They suck sap from your plants causing yellowing, wilting and stunted growth. Check your entire farm and remove any heavily infested parts immediately to prevent further damage.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet weather. First thing first, remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. You can also prune your trees to improve airflow. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: I see brown patches on my cocoa pods. Is this normal?

Response: No, this is not normal. Those brown patches are signs of black pod disease. It is a serious problem that can destroy your harvest. The thing is, it spreads very fast in wet conditions. You must remove and burn all infected pods immediately. Also, prune your trees to reduce humidity in the farm.


Instruction: My cocoa farm has many pods with black spots. What can I do?

Response: Those black spots are from black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads quickly in wet weather. First, remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning black. What is the cause?

Response: This is black pod disease, caused by a fungus. It spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. You must remove and burn all infected pods immediately. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to reduce humidity in the farm. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: I see black patches on my cocoa pods. Is this a disease?

Response: Yes, those black patches are from black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads quickly in wet weather. First, remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning brown. What should I do?

Response: Those brown patches are signs of black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet conditions. First, remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to reduce humidity in the farm. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are getting black spots. What is this?

Response: Those black spots are from black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads quickly in wet weather. First, remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning black. How can I stop this?

Response: This is black pod disease, caused by a fungus. It spreads very fast in wet and humid conditions. First, remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to reduce humidity in the farm. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: I see black patches on my cocoa pods. What is causing this?

Response: Those black patches are from black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads quickly in wet weather. First, remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to improve airflow. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning brown. What can I do to fix this?

Response: Those brown patches are signs of black pod disease. It is caused by a fungus and spreads very fast in wet conditions. First, remove all the infected pods and burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees to reduce humidity in the farm. This will help control the disease.


Instruction: How do I tell if my tomato plants have early blight or late blight?

Response: My friend, early blight shows dark brown spots with rings and yellow halos on lower leaves. Late blight causes water-soaked grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves you see.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause early blight and late blight for tomato?

Response: Early blight comes from Alternaria solani, while late blight comes from Phytophthora infestans. Both love wet, cool weather. First thing first, check your farm now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: What is the main difference between early blight and late blight in tomatoes?

Response: Early blight starts on lower leaves with brown spots and yellow halos. Late blight attacks leaves and stems with grey-green patches that turn brown fast. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: How does early blight spread compared to late blight in tomato plants?

Response: Both spread fast in wet weather, but late blight can destroy plants in days. Early blight moves slower. The thing is, wet weather helps them both. Check your farm now and remove any sick leaves.


Instruction: Which blight disease is worse for tomatoes, early or late?

Response: Late blight is worse — it can kill plants in days during wet weather. Early blight is bad but slower. Check your plants now and remove any infected leaves.


Instruction: How can I stop both early and late blight from spreading in my tomato farm?

Response: Remove and burn infected leaves right away. Spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week in rainy season. Water at the base, not on leaves. Check your farm today and start these steps.


Instruction: What should I do if I see early blight on my tomato plants?

Response: Remove and burn infected leaves immediately. Spray mancozeb or copper fungicide every week in rainy season. Water at the base to keep leaves dry. Check your plants now and start treating.


Instruction: Is it better to compost or burn leaves with blight?

Response: Burn them, my friend. Do not compost — the disease can spread. Check your plants today and remove any bad leaves.


Instruction: How does planting tomatoes on ridges help prevent blight?

Response: Ridges improve drainage and reduce soil splash onto leaves. This keeps lower leaves dry and healthy. Check your farm and plant on ridges if you haven't already.


Instruction: Why is it important to rotate tomato crops with maize or cowpea?

Response: Rotating stops diseases like blight from building up in the soil. Plant maize or cowpea next season. Check your farm plan and start rotating.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut has rosette disease?

Response: My friend, if your groundnut plants stay small, look bushy, and have yellow or mottled leaves all bunched together, that is rosette disease. No cure for it — uproot and burn the infected plants immediately to save the rest of your farm.


Instruction: What is the difference between healthy groundnut plants and those with rosette?

Response: Healthy groundnut plants grow tall and spread out nicely. But if they stay small, look bushy with yellow or mottled leaves all bunched together, that is rosette disease. First thing first, uproot and burn any infected plants to save your farm.


Instruction: Why is rosette disease worse early in the season?

Response: The thing is, rosette disease is deadlier early in the season because it can wipe out your whole crop. Plant right at the start of rains to avoid the worst aphid attacks that come later. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones.


Instruction: My groundnut leaves don spoil, wetin dey cause am?

Response: If your groundnut leaves are yellow or mottled with bunched growth, that is rosette disease. The aphids carry the virus — no cure for it. Uproot and burn infected plants now to save the rest of your farm.


Instruction: How can I prevent rosette disease in my groundnut farm?

Response: To prevent rosette, plant early at the start of rains. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control aphids. Weed your farm well — weeds host aphids which then move to groundnut plants.


Instruction: What is the difference between groundnut rosette and other diseases?

Response: Rosette makes plants stay small, bushy with yellow or mottled leaves all bunched together. Other diseases may cause spots or wilting, but rosette is unique in its stunted, bunched growth. No cure for it — uproot and burn infected plants immediately.


Instruction: How do I know if my groundnut has rosette or just lacks nutrients?

Response: If your groundnut plants stay small, look bushy with yellow or mottled leaves all bunched together, that is rosette disease. Nutrient deficiency makes leaves pale but not bunched. No cure for rosette — uproot and burn infected plants immediately.


Instruction: Why does my groundnut farm have more rosette than my neighbor's?

Response: Your neighbor might have planted resistant varieties or early in the season. Plant early at the start of rains and use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22. Treat seeds with insecticide and weed your farm well to control aphids.


Instruction: What is the difference between groundnut rosette and cowpea aphids?

Response: Rosette is the disease caused by the virus the aphids carry. The aphids are the tiny green insects you see on leaves. No cure for rosette — uproot and burn infected plants. To control aphids, treat seeds with insecticide and weed your farm well.


Instruction: How can I save my groundnut farm if some plants have rosette?

Response: No need to panic, my friend. Uproot and burn the infected plants immediately. Then treat the remaining plants with insecticide to control aphids. Weed your farm well — weeds host aphids which then move to groundnut plants.


Instruction: What should I not do if I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves?

Response: My friend, do not waste money on chemicals or treatments — there is no cure for bunchy top. First thing first: chop the plant down and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. Today, check all your plantains and remove any with symptoms.


Instruction: Is it okay to move suckers from my neighbour's farm that had bunchy top?

Response: No, no, no! The virus hides inside suckers even when you can't see it. Never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Get certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets instead. This week, inspect your farm and remove any suckers that look suspicious.


Instruction: My plantain leaves are turning yellow and brown, what is the problem?

Response: This sounds like bunchy top virus. Do not wait or try to treat it — there is no cure. Chop the plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, check all your plantains and remove any with symptoms.


Instruction: Can I plant my plantain suckers close together to save space?

Response: No, my friend, do not plant them close. Space them at 3 metres by 3 metres for good airflow. This helps prevent disease and makes harvesting easier. This week, plan your next planting with proper spacing.


Instruction: What not to do when planting plantain suckers?

Response: Do not plant them at the wrong time — plant at the start of the rainy season for best establishment. Also, do not plant suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. Get clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Today, check your planting calendar and prepare for the next rainy season.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my plantain leaves to be short and stiff?

Response: This is bunchy top virus. Do not waste time or money trying to treat it — there is no cure. Chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, remove all infected plants from your farm.


Instruction: Is it okay to keep many suckers around the parent plant?

Response: No, my friend, do not keep too many suckers. Keep only 1 parent plant and 1 to 2 followers per mat. This helps the plant grow strong. This week, desucker your plantains and remove the extra ones.


Instruction: My plantain plant is not growing properly, what is the issue?

Response: If the leaves are short, stiff, and crowded at the top, it is bunchy top virus. Do not try to treat it — there is no cure. Chop the plant and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Today, inspect all your plantains and remove any with symptoms.


Instruction: Can I use any fertilizer for my plantain?

Response: No, my friend, do not use just any fertilizer. Plantain needs a lot of potassium. Use a potassium-rich fertilizer. This week, check your fertilizer supply and get the right one for your plantains.


Instruction: What should I not do if I find bunchy top on my farm?

Response: Do not panic or try to treat it — there is no cure. Chop the infected plants and inject the stems with kerosene or paraquat. Today, remove all infected plants from your farm and check the rest carefully.


Instruction: My mango tree leaves have dark brown spots. What is happening?

Response: My friend, this is mango anthracnose. The fungus loves wet weather. First thing first, remove all the spotted leaves and fallen fruits from the ground. This will stop the fungus from spreading.


Instruction: How do I know when my mangoes are ready to pick?

Response: The thing is, you look for a slight colour change at the tip. Different varieties have different signs. Handle the fruits carefully when you pick them. No rough handling, I tell you.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my mango fruits go black after I harvest am?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. It grows fast when the fruit ripens. Next time, harvest carefully and store the fruits in a cool dry place right away.


Instruction: Can I spray something to stop the black spots on my mango leaves?

Response: Yes, you can. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering time. Repeat every 10 days during the rainy season. Follow the label instructions carefully.


Instruction: My mango flowers are dying before fruiting. What can I do?

Response: This is blossom blight from anthracnose. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation. Do this after harvest.


Instruction: Is it good to water my mango tree from above?

Response: No, no need to do that. Overhead irrigation keeps the leaves wet for too long. The fungus loves this. Use drip irrigation instead if you can.


Instruction: How often should I prune my mango tree?

Response: Prune your mango tree after every harvest. Remove dead wood and improve air circulation. This helps stop the anthracnose fungus from spreading.


Instruction: My harvested mangoes are turning black quickly. What is wrong?

Response: This is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit. Handle fruits carefully when harvesting. Store them in a cool dry place immediately after picking.


Instruction: What should I do with fallen leaves and fruits under my mango tree?

Response: Remove them regularly. They carry fungal spores. This will help stop the anthracnose fungus from spreading to your tree.


Instruction: My mango tree has black spots on leaves and fruits. How do I treat it?

Response: This is anthracnose. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering stage. Repeat every 10 days during rains. Also, prune your tree to improve air circulation. Do this after harvest.


Instruction: How do you stop plantain bunchy top from spreading on my farm?

Response: My friend, once you see bunchy top, no time to waste! Chop the infected plant immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm underground. This stops the virus from spreading to other plants through the soil. Check all your plants now and remove any that show dark green streaks or yellowing leaves.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause plantain bunchy top and how I go stop am from spread?

Response: Bunchy top comes from a virus spread by tiny banana aphids. The thing is, once a plant gets it, it's done. No cure! First thing first, chop down any infected plants and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the underground corm. Then, make sure to plant only certified clean suckers next time.


Instruction: Can plantain bunchy top spread to other crops on my farm?

Response: No need to panic about other crops — bunchy top only affects bananas and plantains. But you must act fast! Remove any infected plantain plants immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to stop the virus. Check your plantain farm today and remove any plants with stiff, narrow leaves or dark green streaks.


Instruction: What should I do if I see dark green streaks on my plantain leaves?

Response: Dark green streaks mean bunchy top virus! I tell you, there's no cure. Chop that plant down right now and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading. Also, check all your other plants and remove any with yellowing leaves or stiff growth.


Instruction: How can I prevent plantain bunchy top from spreading to my new plantain farm?

Response: To keep your new farm safe, never move suckers from a farm that had bunchy top. The virus hides inside the sucker with no signs. Always plant certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Check your new farm this week and remove any plants that look different from the others.


Instruction: My neighbor's plantain has bunchy top. How can I protect my farm?

Response: Bunchy top spreads easily through banana aphids, so keep a close eye on your plants. If you see any with dark green streaks or yellowing, chop them down immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Also, make sure to plant only certified clean suckers in the future.


Instruction: What are the signs that plantain bunchy top is spreading on my farm?

Response: Look for leaves that are short, stiff, and crowded at the top of the plant. You'll also see dark green streaks and dots along the veins that turn yellow then brown. If you see these signs, act fast! Remove the infected plants and inject the stems with kerosene or paraquat to stop the spread.


Instruction: How do I know if my plantain has bunchy top and how do I stop it from spreading?

Response: Bunchy top makes leaves short, stiff, and crowded at the top. You'll see dark green streaks that turn yellow then brown. There's no cure, so chop down infected plants immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. This kills the corm and stops the virus from spreading.


Instruction: Can I save a plantain plant with bunchy top?

Response: No, my friend, once a plant has bunchy top, it's a complete loss. The best thing is to remove it immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat to kill the corm. This stops the virus from spreading to other plants. Check your farm today and remove any infected plants.


Instruction: What should I do to prevent plantain bunchy top from spreading in my farm?

Response: To stop bunchy top from spreading, remove any infected plants immediately and inject the stem with kerosene or paraquat. Also, make sure to plant only certified clean suckers or tissue culture plantlets. Check your farm this week and remove any plants with dark green streaks or yellowing leaves.


Instruction: My friend, my cocoa pods are turning black and rotten. What is this?

Response: Ah, my friend, this sounds like black pod disease. It's a fungus that attacks cocoa pods, making them rot and turn black. You must remove and bury these bad pods deep or burn them right away. Don't leave them on the ground, or they will spread the disease.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause am when my cocoa pods get brown spots and spoil fast?

Response: That is black pod disease, my friend. It spreads quickly in wet and humid weather. The thing is, one bad pod can infect many others. First thing first, remove all the bad pods and burn them. Then, prune your trees to let in more air and sunlight.


Instruction: I see black patches on my cocoa pods. Is this a big problem?

Response: Yes, my friend, black patches on cocoa pods are a big problem. It's black pod disease, and it can destroy up to one third of your harvest if you don't manage it. You must remove and destroy the infected pods immediately. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are rotting and turning black. What should I do?

Response: That is black pod disease, and it spreads very fast in wet conditions. You must remove all the infected pods and bury them deeply or burn them. Do not leave them on the ground. Also, prune your trees regularly to improve airflow and reduce humidity in your farm.


Instruction: I notice some of my cocoa pods have black rot. How did this happen?

Response: Ah, that is black pod disease, my friend. It's caused by a fungus that loves wet and humid conditions. The bad pods can infect others quickly. You must remove and destroy the infected pods right away. Also, harvest your ripe pods every two weeks to prevent overstay pods from causing more infection.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are getting black and soft. What is the cause?

Response: That is black pod disease, my friend. It's a fungus that attacks cocoa pods, making them rot and turn black. You must remove and destroy the infected pods immediately. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks.


Instruction: I see black rot on my cocoa pods. Is there a treatment?

Response: Yes, my friend, that is black pod disease. To treat it, you must remove and destroy all the infected pods. Also, prune your trees to let in more air and sunlight. Apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are turning black and rotting. What can I do?

Response: That is black pod disease, my friend. It spreads quickly in wet conditions. You must remove and destroy the infected pods immediately. Also, prune your trees regularly to improve airflow and reduce humidity in your farm. Harvest your ripe pods every two weeks to prevent overstay pods from causing more infection.


Instruction: I have black spots on my cocoa pods. What is this?

Response: That is black pod disease, my friend. It's a fungus that loves wet and humid conditions. You must remove and destroy the infected pods right away. Also, apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks.


Instruction: My cocoa pods are getting black and soft. How can I stop this?

Response: That is black pod disease, my friend. To stop it, you must remove and destroy all the infected pods. Also, prune your trees to let in more air and sunlight. Apply a copper-based fungicide like Ridomil Gold or Nordox during the rainy season every 2 to 3 weeks. Harvest your ripe pods every two weeks to prevent overstay pods from causing more infection.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes that look like someone took a knife and cut them in a zigzag pattern. What is this?

Response: My friend, this sounds like fall armyworm attack. Check inside the whorl for wet sawdust-like droppings. That is the caterpillar's mess. First thing first, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl. This will scratch and kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: I see some maize plants with leaves that look like they have light shining through them. What is happening to my maize?

Response: Ah, this is the work of fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Check early morning or evening when they come out. If you see wet sawdust-like droppings inside, that is a sure sign. Apply neem-based spray if the infestation is new.


Instruction: My maize leaves don spoil for day. The thing is, the holes no straight, dey rough like somebody cut am with knife. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is fall armyworm, my friend. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That is the caterpillar's droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: I found some maize plants with a lot of wet, sawdust-like material inside the leaves. What is this?

Response: That wet sawdust-like material is the droppings of fall armyworm caterpillars. They hide inside the whorl and feed mostly at night. Check your plants early morning or evening. If you see the caterpillars, apply neem-based spray if the infestation is new.


Instruction: My maize plants have irregular holes in the leaves. The edges look ragged, not smooth. What could be the problem?

Response: This is likely fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That is the caterpillar's droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: I see some maize plants with leaves that have holes and a lot of wet, sawdust-like material inside. What is this?

Response: This is fall armyworm, my friend. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed mostly at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That is the caterpillar's droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes that look like they were cut with a rough knife. What is this?

Response: This is the work of fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That is the caterpillar's droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: I found some maize plants with leaves that have irregular holes and a lot of wet, sawdust-like material inside. What is this?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed mostly at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That is the caterpillar's droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: My maize leaves don spoil for day. The holes no smooth, dey rough like somebody cut am with rough knife. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: This is fall armyworm, my friend. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That is the caterpillar's droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: I see some maize plants with leaves that have holes and a lot of wet, sawdust-like material inside. What is this?

Response: This is fall armyworm. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and feed mostly at night. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings inside the whorl. That is the caterpillar's droppings. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the young caterpillars.


Instruction: How do I know if my mango tree has anthracnose?

Response: My friend, look for dark brown spots on leaves. On flowers, you'll see blossom blight where flowers turn black and die. On fruits, watch for dark sunken spots that grow bigger after harvest. Check your trees today and remove any infected parts.


Instruction: My mango fruits don spoil for house even dem never spoil for tree. Wetin dey cause am?

Response: Ah, this is anthracnose. The fungus was already inside the fruit while it was on the tree. The thing is, it only shows after harvest. Handle fruits carefully when picking and store them in a cool, dry place immediately.


Instruction: What can I do to prevent mango anthracnose?

Response: First thing first, prune your trees after harvest to improve air flow. Remove all fallen leaves and fruits from the ground. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Start pruning this week.


Instruction: How often should I spray my mango trees for anthracnose?

Response: Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering, then every 10 days during the rainy season. No need to panic, just follow the label instructions carefully. Get your sprayer ready if rains are coming.


Instruction: Why are my mango flowers dying before fruiting?

Response: This is blossom blight caused by anthracnose. The fungus attacks the flowers, killing them before fruit sets. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering to protect them. Check your trees now and spray if needed.


Instruction: Can I save mango fruits already infected with anthracnose?

Response: No, my friend. Once the fruit shows dark sunken spots, it's too late. The best thing is to prevent it. Handle fruits carefully when harvesting and store them in a cool, dry place immediately. Inspect your trees today.


Instruction: What is the best time to prune mango trees to prevent disease?

Response: Prune after every harvest to remove dead wood and improve air circulation. This helps prevent anthracnose. Grab your pruning tools and start this week.


Instruction: How do I know when to harvest my mangoes to avoid anthracnose?

Response: Harvest when you see a slight colour change at the tip. This is the sign for most varieties. Handle fruits carefully, do not drop them, and store in a cool dry place immediately. Check your trees now.


Instruction: I don see small black spots for my mango leaves. Wetin I go do?

Response: Those are signs of anthracnose. Remove the infected leaves immediately. Spray mancozeb or copper oxychloride at flowering and repeat every 10 days during rains. Follow the label instructions carefully. Start by removing the bad leaves today.


Instruction: What should I do with fallen mango leaves and fruits?

Response: Remove them from the ground regularly. They carry fungal spores that cause anthracnose. Collect them this week and dispose of them properly.


Instruction: How can I fight fall armyworm without spending too much money?

Response: My friend, check your maize early morning or evening for small caterpillars. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl — this scratches and kills young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays work well too. First thing first, go check your maize now.


Instruction: My maize leaves have holes like windowpanes, wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, that is fall armyworm, my brother. The caterpillars hide inside the whorl and eat the leaves. Look for wet sawdust-like droppings in the whorl — that is the clearest sign. Mix sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl to kill the caterpillars. Go check your maize today.


Instruction: What is the cheapest way to stop fall armyworm in my maize field?

Response: The cheapest way is to mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the maize whorl. This scratches and kills the young caterpillars. Also, plant maize with beans or soybean — this reduces fall armyworm attack. Go do this today.


Instruction: How can I prevent fall armyworm in my maize without spending much?

Response: Plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Also, intercrop maize with beans or soybean — this reduces fall armyworm attack. Go check your maize now and see if you need to treat.


Instruction: My maize has fall armyworm, how do I treat it cheaply?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the maize whorl. This scratches and kills the young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays also work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Go treat your maize today.


Instruction: What can I do to stop fall armyworm in my maize without spending too much?

Response: The thing is, mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the maize whorl. This scratches and kills the young caterpillars. Also, plant maize with beans or soybean — this reduces fall armyworm attack. Go do this today.


Instruction: How can I manage fall armyworm in my maize without spending much?

Response: Check your maize early morning or evening for small caterpillars. Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the whorl — this scratches and kills young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays work well too. Go check your maize now.


Instruction: What is the best cheap way to control fall armyworm in maize?

Response: The best cheap way is to mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the maize whorl. This scratches and kills the young caterpillars. Also, plant maize with beans or soybean — this reduces fall armyworm attack. Go do this today.


Instruction: How can I reduce fall armyworm in my maize without spending too much?

Response: Intercrop maize with beans or soybean — this reduces fall armyworm attack significantly. Also, plant your maize at the right time for your area to avoid peak moth migration season. Go check your maize now and see if you need to treat.


Instruction: My maize has fall armyworm, how do I treat it without spending much?

Response: Mix fine sand with wood ash and put it inside the maize whorl. This scratches and kills the young caterpillars. Neem-based sprays also work well on young caterpillars in the first 2 weeks of infestation. Go treat your maize today.


Instruction: How do I stop groundnut rosette from killing my plants?

Response: My friend, the thing is, once a plant gets rosette, it's already dead. You must remove it immediately to save others. First thing first, plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control aphids. This week, check your farm for any infected plants and remove them.


Instruction: My groundnut don spoil, leaves turn yellow and bushy. Wetin dey cause this?

Response: Ah, this sounds like groundnut rosette. It's a deadly virus spread by aphids. There's no cure once a plant is infected. You must remove the sick plants immediately. To prevent this, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, keep your farm clean of weeds because they host aphids. This week, check your plants and remove any that look sick.


Instruction: What type of soil is best for growing groundnut?

Response: Groundnut loves well-drained sandy loam soil. Waterlogged soil causes pod rot, which is bad for your harvest. Make sure your farm has good drainage. This week, check your soil and improve drainage if needed.


Instruction: How do I space my groundnut plants?

Response: Space your groundnut plants at 15 cm within rows and 30 cm between rows. This helps with good canopy closure against weeds. Proper spacing also ensures better pod development. This week, measure your spacing and adjust if needed.


Instruction: Why are my groundnut plants not producing pods?

Response: Too much nitrogen in the soil can cause this. Groundnut fixes its own nitrogen, so you don't need to add much. Focus on phosphorus and potassium instead. This week, check your fertilizer and adjust if needed.


Instruction: When is the best time to harvest groundnut?

Response: Harvest before heavy rains arrive. Wet pods can get aflatoxin contamination, which is very dangerous. Make sure to dry the pods properly before storage. This week, check the weather forecast and plan your harvest accordingly.


Instruction: How do I prevent aflatoxin in my groundnut?

Response: Aflatoxin happens when pods are wet. Harvest before heavy rains and dry the pods properly. Moisture above 9 percent is dangerous. This week, check your drying process and ensure the pods are dry before storage.


Instruction: What can I do to control aphids in my groundnut farm?

Response: Aphids spread groundnut rosette, so you must control them. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, weed your farm well because weeds host aphids. This week, check for aphids and treat your seeds if you haven't already.


Instruction: My groundnut plants are stunted and bushy. What should I do?

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette. Remove the infected plants immediately. To prevent this, plant early and use resistant varieties. Also, control aphids with insecticide seed treatment. This week, check your plants and remove any that look sick.


Instruction: How can I improve my groundnut yield?

Response: Plant in well-drained soil, space properly, and avoid too much nitrogen. Use resistant varieties and control aphids. Harvest before heavy rains and dry the pods properly. This week, check your farming practices and make any necessary adjustments.


Instruction: my groundnut leaves are turning yellow and plants look stunted

Response: My friend, this sounds like groundnut rosette disease. It's very serious — the plant won't recover. First thing first, uproot and burn these plants immediately to stop the virus spreading. Next season, plant resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control the aphids that spread this disease.


Instruction: how I go know if my groundnut has rosette disease

Response: Look for small, bushy plants with yellow or mottled leaves that look bunched together. These plants stay small and won't recover. If you see this, remove and burn them immediately to protect your other plants. Also, plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread the disease.


Instruction: my groundnut plants are dying one by one

Response: No need to panic but act fast. This could be groundnut rosette disease. The plants won't recover, so remove and burn them immediately. For next season, use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 23 or RG 1 series. Also, treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control the aphids that spread this deadly disease.


Instruction: what is causing my groundnut leaves to turn yellow and curl

Response: This is likely groundnut rosette disease spread by aphids. The infected plants won't recover, so remove and burn them immediately. To prevent this next season, plant resistant varieties and treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, weed your farm well — weeds host aphids which then move to your groundnut plants.


Instruction: how can I prevent groundnut rosette disease

Response: Plant early at the start of rains to escape peak aphid populations. Use resistant varieties like SAMNUT 22 or ask your extension officer for local ones. Treat your seeds with insecticide before planting to control aphids. Also, weed your farm well — weeds host aphids which then move to your groundnut plants.


Instruction: my groundnut plants are small and yellow

Response: This sounds like groundnut rosette disease. The plants won't recover, so remove and burn them immediately. For next season, plant resistant varieties and treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread the disease.


Instruction: wetin dey cause my groundnut leaves turn yellow and bunched up

Response: This is groundnut rosette disease caused by aphids. The plants won't recover, so remove and burn them immediately. To prevent this, use resistant varieties and treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: how do I know if my groundnut has a virus

Response: Look for small, bushy plants with yellow or mottled leaves that look bunched together. These plants won't recover, so remove and burn them immediately. To prevent this, use resistant varieties and treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations.


Instruction: my groundnut plants are not growing well

Response: This could be groundnut rosette disease. The plants won't recover, so remove and burn them immediately. For next season, use resistant varieties and treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread the disease.


Instruction: how can I stop my groundnut plants from dying

Response: If your plants have groundnut rosette disease, they won't recover, so remove and burn them immediately. To prevent this, use resistant varieties and treat your seeds with insecticide before planting. Also, plant early in the season to avoid peak aphid populations that spread the disease.


Instruction: How can I stop rice blast from killing my crop?

Response: My friend, first thing first — check your leaves for diamond-shaped spots. If you see them, spray tricyclazole or propiconazole fungicide right away. And I tell you, don't over-feed your rice with nitrogen fertilizer. This week, check your field's water levels too, keep it steady.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my rice plant fall down for ground?

Response: That sound like neck blast, my friend. The fungus attacks the base of the stalk, making it weak. The thing is, cool nights and too much nitrogen fertilizer make it worse. This week, check your field for any fallen plants and remove them to stop the spread.


Instruction: What should I do if I see strange spots on my rice leaves?

Response: Those spots could be rice blast, a very dangerous disease. Look for diamond shapes with grey centers and brown edges. If you see them, spray a fungicide like isoprothiolane right away. Also, make sure you're not using too much nitrogen fertilizer.


Instruction: How can I prevent rice blast in my farm?

Response: To prevent rice blast, plant resistant varieties like FARO 52 or NERICA series. Keep your field well-watered and don't let it dry out and flood alternately. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. This week, check your fertilizer and make sure you're not over-applying nitrogen.


Instruction: My rice plants keep falling over. What is the problem?

Response: That sounds like neck blast, a serious rice disease. It attacks the base of the stalk, causing it to fall over. The thing is, cool nights and too much nitrogen fertilizer make it worse. This week, check your field for any fallen plants and remove them to stop the spread.


Instruction: What can I do to protect my rice from diseases?

Response: To protect your rice, maintain proper water levels in your paddy field. Don't overcrowd seedlings during transplanting and use balanced NPK fertilizer. Also, burn rice straw after harvest to destroy fungal spores. This week, check your field for any signs of disease.


Instruction: How do I know if my rice has blast disease?

Response: Look for diamond-shaped or spindle-shaped lesions on the leaves with a grey or white center and brown or reddish edges. If you see these, it's likely rice blast. Spray a fungicide like propiconazole at the first sign. Also, check your nitrogen fertilizer use.


Instruction: Wetin I go do make my rice no fall for ground?

Response: That sound like neck blast, my friend. To stop it, spray a fungicide at the boot stage before the panicle emerges. Also, make sure you're not using too much nitrogen fertilizer. This week, check your field for any fallen plants and remove them.


Instruction: What is the best way to manage rice blast?

Response: The best way is to prevent it. Plant resistant varieties, maintain proper water levels, and don't over-apply nitrogen fertilizer. If you see signs, spray a fungicide like tricyclazole right away. This week, check your field for any signs of disease.


Instruction: How can I save my rice crop from falling over?

Response: If your rice is falling over, it's likely neck blast. Spray a fungicide at the boot stage to prevent it. Also, make sure you're not over-applying nitrogen fertilizer. This week, check your field for any fallen plants and remove them to stop the spread.


Instruction: How do I know if my cowpea has aphids?

Response: My friend, if you see tiny shiny black or dark brown insects clustered on young shoots, flowers or pods, those are cowpea aphids. You might also notice stunted growth, leaf curl, yellowing and wilting. Check your plants carefully today and take action if you see these signs.


Instruction: Wetin dey cause my cowpea leaves turn yellow?

Response: The thing is, yellowing leaves in cowpea can be from cowpea aphids. These tiny pests suck sap from the plant causing leaves to turn yellow. Check for small black or dark brown insects on your plants. If you see them, act fast to control the infestation.


Instruction: What is the best way to plant cowpea to avoid aphids?

Response: First thing first, plant your cowpea early in the season to escape peak aphid populations. Also, intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio. This reduces aphid pressure and helps your cowpea grow better. Start planning your planting this week.


Instruction: How can I control cowpea aphids without chemicals?

Response: You can spray neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray to control aphids. These natural remedies are effective and safe. Also, remove and destroy heavily infested plant parts to stop the spread. Try making a neem oil spray today.


Instruction: My cowpea leaves have sticky stuff and black mould. What is happening?

Response: That sticky stuff is honeydew from cowpea aphids. The black mould is sooty mould that grows on the honeydew. This blocks sunlight and harms your plants. Check for aphids and control them immediately to save your crop.


Instruction: Can cowpea help improve my soil?

Response: Yes, cowpea fixes nitrogen in the soil. This improves fertility for the next crop you plant on that land. Start planting cowpea this season to boost your soil health.


Instruction: What should I do if my cowpea is heavily infested with aphids?

Response: Remove and destroy the heavily infested plant parts immediately to stop the spread. Then, spray with neem oil mixed with soap or garlic spray. If the infestation is severe, consider using a pyrethrin-based insecticide. Act fast to save your crop.


Instruction: How do I prevent cowpea aphids from attacking my farm?

Response: Avoid planting downwind or next to already infested farms. Intercrop with maize at a 4:1 ratio and plant early in the season. These practices reduce aphid pressure. Plan your planting layout this week.


Instruction: Are there any natural enemies of cowpea aphids?

Response: Yes, ladybird beetles, hoverflies and parasitic wasps feed on aphids. Protect these natural enemies to help control aphid populations. Encourage their presence in your farm.


Instruction: What chemical can I use to control cowpea aphids as a last resort?

Response: As a last resort, you can use imidacloprid seed dressing or dimethoate foliar spray. Follow the label instructions carefully. Try natural remedies first, but if the infestation is severe, use these chemicals.